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VOLTAGE DROP TESTING OVERVIEW

A good understanding of voltage drop is of great importance to the technician. It is a quick and easy
way to check a circuit condition. Excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit, for example, will result in
low voltage at the starter motor and consequently the starter turning slower. Excessive voltage drop in
the headlight circuit will also result in low voltage at the headlights and consequently dim headlights.
Excessive voltage drop in the charging circuit between the alternator and the battery might produce
an excessive low charging voltage at the battery. In this case, the battery would very likely become
discharged. The electric pressure, or voltage, expends itself along the circuit. Each unit of resistance,
whether it is the wire itself or a connected electrical device, uses up some part of the electric push
as the voltage forces electrons along through these resistances. Any type of circuit will have a certain
amount of normal voltage drop, as, even the conductor itself somewhat impedes electron flow. When
voltage drop becomes excessive, poor unit operation will result. Causes of excessive voltage drop
include excessively small wires, broken strands in a multistrand wire, bad connections, and so on.
Remember that these conditions introduce additional resistance into the circuit and that such parasite
resistance uses up part of the voltage. As a result, there is insufficient voltage at the headlights,
battery, starter motor, etc., to produce the desired action. There is another way of looking at the
matter of parasite resistance for instance, is one that is introduced into a circuit by a bad connection.
We might say that the bad connection cuts down the size of the electron path, so that fewer electrons
can get through. As a result, there are not enough electrons moving into the starter motor, causing it
to turn slower.
Using the hydraulic theory to explain pressure loss the following illustration shows a hydraulic circuit
equipped with 2 pressure gauges. These pressure gauges are located at the water inlet and outlet
showing the pressure before and after the pump, or before and after the load. Depending on how you
look at it the result will still be the same.

The pump will create a pressure in the line up to the turbine, shown by the pressure gauge at right of
the pump. At that point the water pressure will turn the turbine. The turbine is a powered device in
which water energy supplies mechanical work. When the turbine load is high enough to absorb all the
hydraulic energy, the water pressure indicated on the inlet pressure gauge will be close to 0 (zero).
Comparing the hydraulic system to an electrical circuit we see the similarities. The battery is like the

pump; it will supply the pressure to make the current flow. The bulb is like the turbine, it has the
resistance or load and it will absorb all the pressure supplied by the battery. Thus like the turbine
where we seen a pressure loss from the inlet to the outlet of the turbine, we see a voltage drop from
one side of the bulb element to the other. When current returns to its source, its pressure is 0 (zero).
Note that there is a complete voltage drop in all circuits and that the voltage drop across each
component will always add up to the source voltage, when that circuit is in operation. Voltage is lost
throughout the various resistances of the circuit. Circuit resistance resides almost entirely in the
powered devices, since conductor resistance remains very low. In fact, in a normal circuit, conductor
resistance is so weak compared to powered device resistance that it can be neglected in calculations.
We therefore consider that the powered device has the entire voltage available to it.
IMPORTANT: Electricity cannot be lost in a circuit, only pressure can.
If we were to check the voltage across each of the resistors in the starter circuit, shown in the
following illustration with a voltmeter, we would find the voltages would add up to source voltage while
the starter motor is cranking. Note that the voltage is gradually used up from one end to the other
end of the circuit. The voltage drops 0.1 volt across the wire from the battery to the relay, 0.1 volt
across the relay, 0.1 volt across the wire from the relay to the starter motor, 9.6 volts across the
starter motor, and 0.1 volt across the wire from the starter motor back to the battery. Any resistance in
a circuit causes a voltage loss, or voltage drop.

NOTE: The voltage drop in a switch or conductor should not be more than 0.02 volt.

SHOP PRACTICE VOLTAGE DROP TESTING


Step 1
Position the voltmeter so that it can be read from the seat. Make sure the test leads are connected to
the battery posts and observe the voltage reading. This is the battery open-circuit voltage. Record it
below:
Battery voltage _______________ volts

Step 2
NOTE: In the following steps, you will be cranking the engine repeatedly. To prevent starter
overheating:
a. Do not crank the engine for a period longer than 15 seconds.
b. Allow a 2-minute interval between each voltage measurement to permit the starter to cool.
Disable the ignition system so that the motor will not start. Position the voltmeter so that it can be read
from the seat or have someone assist you by cranking the engine. Make sure the test leads are
connected to the battery posts and then crank the engine while observing the voltage reading. This is
the cranking voltage, and, as you can see, it is less than the battery open-circuit voltage. Record it
below:
Battery voltage while cranking _______________ voltage
The cranking voltage is ______ volts less than the open-circuit voltage.
This voltage measurement tells us very little, because even a bad battery can easily maintain its rated
voltage when it doesn't have to supply a load. Next, you cranked the engine and measured the battery
cranking voltage. This reading is significant, because now the battery is supplying approximately 50
amps to the starter motor. A good battery will maintain the cranking voltage at anywhere from 10 to
10.5 voltsthe higher the better. Anything below 9 volts indicates a problem. The cranking voltage
check that you've just performed is a pretty good method of determining battery condition.
The difference between the open circuit voltage and the cranking voltage is in the range of 2 volts.
Both measurements were made directly across the battery, so this 2-volt drop must be lost inside the
battery. The culprit is the battery's internal resistance and very little can be done about it.
Nevertheless, this places the starter motor at a disadvantage, since 2 volts out of a possible 12 are
lost before it ever leaves the battery.

Step 3
Observing polarity connect the test leads between the battery positive terminal and the starter relay,
as shown. Set the multimeter to the DC volt auto range. Make sure the test leads are attached directly
to the battery and relay terminal posts, and not to the cable connectors. Crank the engine and record
the voltage dropped by this starter cable.
Voltage drop at starter cable 1 _______________ volts

NOTE: The position in which you place your test probe will have an effect on your results. Probing on
the wire for example instead of the battery post itself will not check the connection at the battery; it will
only check the wire condition.

Step 4
Set the multimeter to the DC volt auto range. Again observing polarity, connect the voltmeter test
leads across the starter relay posts as shown. The starter relay contacts are open at the moment, so
the voltmeter indicates battery voltage. When the starter control circuit closes the relay contacts,
starter current will flow and the voltmeter will indicate the voltage drop across the relay.

Now, crank the engine and record the voltage dropped across the relay contacts.
Voltage drop across the starter relay _______________ volts
NOTE: The position in which you place your test probe will have an effect on your results. Probing on
the wire for example instead of the relay post itself will not check the connection at the relay; it will
only check the wire condition.

Step 5
Refer to the following image and connect the test leads across the other starter cable, at the starter
and relay posts, as shown. Set the multimeter to the DC volt auto range. Crank the engine and record
the voltage dropped by this starter cable.

Voltage drop across starter cable 2 _______________ volts

Step 6
Set the multimeter to the DC volt auto range and connect the test leads as shown. Make sure the
negative test lead makes good contact with the starter housing. This connection measures the voltage
drop across the starter motor. Crank the engine and record the voltage.

Voltage drop across the starter motor _______________ volts

Step 7
Set the multimeter to the DC volt auto range and connect the test leads to the starter motor housing
and the negative battery post, as shown. Crank the engine and record the voltage dropped in the
starter ground leg.

Voltage drop across the starter ground leg


_______________ volts

NOTE: The test probe connection at the starter motor must be done at the exact same spot as in the
previous test.
Refer to the following illustration. Using the voltage measurements recorded in steps 2 through 7, fill
in the blanks. The voltage across the battery should be the cranking voltage.

The battery is an electrical voltage source. When a circuit, such as the starter motor circuit is
connected to this source, current flows and the entire source voltage is dropped across the circuit.
Essentially, the starter motor circuit is a series circuit. Therefore, each component drops a portion of
the source voltage equivalent to that component's resistance.
Referring to the illustration you just filled in add the voltage drops. Record the sum below.
Voltage drop total _______________ volts
Does the sum of the voltage drops approximate the battery voltage? Yes _______ No _______
Measuring the voltage drops in the starting circuit like you've just done, is an excellent technique to
use to analyze the operation of the starting system. The following illustration shows the typical
readings for the starter system. Your measurements should have been close to these.
Notice that when the voltage drops are added, the sum equals the source voltage when the system is
in operation. As you learned earlier, the sum of the voltage drops equals source voltage. In this
system the cranking voltage is 10 volts, but only 9.6 volts reach the starter. The remaining 0.4 volts
are lost in the cables, connections,
and the relay contacts that
complete the circuit between the
starter and the battery. Actually,
these readings are pretty good.
However, if the voltage that
reaches the starter drops to 9
volts or less, you have a problem.

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