Lonely Planet Publications

13

Contents
On the Road
Scotland Highlights

4
5

Destination Scotland 16
Getting Started

18

Itineraries

22

History

27

The Culture

38

Food & Drink

52

Outdoor Activities

57

Environment

64

Edinburgh

68

History
Orientation
Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Edinburgh for Children
Quirky Edinburgh
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
AROUND EDINBURGH
Midlothian
East Lothian
West Lothian

69
70
70
79
79
91
92
93
95
95
96
98
102
107
109
112
113
113
114
114
116
117

Glasgow

119

History
Orientation
Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Glasgow for Children
Quirky Glasgow
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
AROUND GLASGOW
Inverclyde

120
120
120
123
123
132
132
133
133
134
134
134
137
140
142
145
145
146
146
147

Southern Scotland

149

BORDERS REGION
Cockburnspath
Coldingham Bay
& St Abbs Head
Eyemouth
South of Eyemouth
Duns & Around
Lammermuir Hills
Coldstream
Kelso
Around Kelso
Melrose
Around Melrose
Galashiels
Selkirk
Jedburgh
Hawick
Hermitage Castle
Peebles
Around Peebles
SOUTH LANARKSHIRE
Blantyre
Lanark & New Lanark
Biggar
AYRSHIRE
North Ayrshire
Isle of Arran

150
151
151
153
154
154
154
154
155
157
158
159
160
160
160
162
162
162
163
164
164
164
165
166
166
168

14

CONTENTS

East Ayrshire
South Ayrshire
DUMFRIES &
GALLOWAY
Dumfries
South of Dumfries
Castle Douglas & Around
Kirkcudbright
Gatehouse of Fleet
Around Gatehouse
New Galloway & Around
Newton Stewart
The Machars
Stranraer
Around Stranraer
Portpatrick
South of Portpatrick
Annandale & Eskdale

Central Scotland

DUNDEE & ANGUS

Dundee
Broughty Ferry

178
178
180
181
182
183
183
184
185
185
186
188
188
189
189

191

STIRLING REGION
Stirling
Around Stirling
The Campsies
& Strathblane
The Trossachs
Balquhidder & Around
CLACKMANNANSHIRE
Dollar
Clackmannan
FALKIRK REGION
Falkirk
Boness & Kinneil Railway
FIFE
Culross
Aberdour
Kirkcaldy
Falkland
St Andrews
East Neuk
PERTHSHIRE & KINROSS
Kinross & Loch Leven
Perth
Strathearn
West Perthshire
Perth to Aviemore
Blairgowrie & Glenshee
Around Blairgowrie

Northeast Scotland

173
173

192
193
197
198
199
202
205
205
205
205
205
205
206
206
207
207
207
208
214
216
217
217
220
223
226
230
231

232
234
234
239

Glamis Castle & Village

Arbroath
Montrose
Forfar
Aberlemno
Kirriemuir
Angus Glens
Edzell
Brechin
ABERDEENSHIRE
& MORAY
Aberdeen
Around Aberdeen
Deeside
Strathdon
Northern
Aberdeenshire
Moray

239
240
241
241
241
242
243
244
244
245
245
253
254
257
258
260

Southern Highlands
266
& Islands
LOCH LOMOND
& AROUND
Loch Lomond

Scottish
Experiences
Helensburgh
Arrochar
SOUTH ARGYLL
Cowal
Isle of Bute
Inveraray
Crinan Canal
Kilmartin Glen
Kintyre
Isle of Islay
Isle of Jura
Isle of Colonsay
OBAN & MULL
Oban
Around Oban
Isle of Mull
Isle of Iona
Isle of Ulva
Isle of Staffa
Isle of Coll
Isle of Tiree
NORTH ARGYLL
Loch Awe
Loch Etive
Appin & Around
Lismore

267
267

269
279
279
280
280
281
284
285
285
286
288
293
295
297
297
301
303
309
310
310
310
311
313
313
314
314
315

Central & Western

Highlands

316

INVERNESS
& THE GREAT GLEN
Inverness
Around Inverness
West of Inverness
Black Isle
Loch Ness
Fort Augustus
THE CAIRNGORMS
Aviemore
Around Aviemore
Grantown-on-Spey
Kingussie
Newtonmore
Dalwhinnie
WEST HIGHLANDS
Glen Coe
Kinlochleven
Fort William
Around Fort William
Ardgour & Ardnamurchan
Salen to Lochailort
Road to the Isles
Knoydart Peninsula
SMALL ISLES
Isle of Rum
Isle of Eigg
Isle of Muck
Isle of Canna

317
318
323
324
325
327
329
329
330
333
335
336
336
337
337
337
339
340
344
346
347
347
349
350
350
351
352
352

Northern Highlands
353
& Islands
EAST COAST
Strathpeffer
Tain
Portmahomack
Bonar Bridge & Around
Lairg
Dornoch
Golspie
Helmsdale
Helmsdale to Latheron
Lybster
Around Lybster
Wick
John oGroats
Mey
Dunnet Head
NORTH & WEST COAST
Thurso & Scrabster
Thurso to Durness

354
355
356
356
356
357
358
358
359
359
360
361
361
363
363
363
364
364
367

 Lonely Planet Publications

C O N T E N T S 15

Durness (Diuranais)
Durness to Ullapool
Ullapool
Ullapool to the East Coast
Ullapool to
Kyle of Lochalsh
Kyle of Lochalsh
Kyle to the Great Glen
ISLE OF SKYE
Kyleakin (Caol Acain)
Broadford
(An T-Ath Leathann)
Sleat
Elgol (Ealaghol)
Cuillin Hills
Minginish
Portree (Port Righ)
Dunvegan (Dun Bheagain)
Duirinish & Waternish
Trotternish
Isle of Raasay

368
369
371
373
374
377
377
378
381
381
382
383
383
384
384
387
387
388
389

OUTER HEBRIDES
389
Lewis (Leodhais)
391
Harris (Na Hearadh)
396
Berneray (Bearnaraigh)
399
North Uist
(Uibhist A Tuath)
399
Benbecula
(Beinn Na Faoghla)
400
South Uist (Uibhist A Deas) 400
Eriskay (Eiriosgaigh)
401
Barra (Barraigh)
401
Pabbay (Pabaidh),
Mingulay (Miughalaigh)
& Berneray (Bearnaraigh) 403

South Mainland
Stromness
West & North Mainland
Hoy
Northern Islands
SHETLAND ISLANDS
Lerwick
Bressay & Noss
Central & West Mainland
South Mainland
Fair Isle
North Mainland
The North Isles

Orkney
& Shetland Islands

Directory

436

405
407

Transport

449

411

Health

457

Language

459

Glossary

461

The Authors

462

Behind the Scenes

463

Index

467

World Time Zones

482

Map Legend

484

ORKNEY ISLANDS
Kirkwall
East Mainland to
South Ronaldsay

404

Regional Map Contents

413
414
416
418
419
423
425
428
429
430
431
431
433

See Inset

Shetland
Islands
(p424)

Orkney
Islands
(p406)

Northern Highlands
& Islands
(p354)

Central &
Western
Highlands
(p317)

Northeast
Scotland
(p233)

Central
Southern Scotland
Highlands (p192)
& Islands
(p267)
Glasgow
(p121)

Edinburgh
(p71)

Southern
Scotland
(pp1501)