Directions for add on stepper motor board to Ben Fleming's "Pulse EDM V2.0" board.

1. Don't solder the 16 pin IC socket for 'U4', SN754410NE, to the board. This IC is no
longer used. Some of the pin holes will be used to connect to the stepper board, via
jumper wires. The unused 16 pin socket can be used on the stepper board.
2. Cut the Roth Elektronic RE315-HP board to the size shown. The drawings have one
corner of the board highlighted in red, it is the same corner in all views. This red corner is
shown as a reference to keep the board in the correct orientation. Using the numbered and
alphabetically marked rows of holes, remove the copper traces in the places marked with
an "X". The copper can be removed with a knife, a rotary tool (Dremel) or by turning a
~3mm drill bit by hand in the hole needed. Make sure all of the copper is removed where
shown. If not all removed, there could be a short circuit in the finished board.
3. Again using the letter and number hole rows as a guide, solder the jumper wires to
connect the holes as shown. The longer jumpers should be made from insulated solid
"hook-up" wire, #22 or #24 gauge. The shorter jumpers (ones connecting adjacent holes)
can be made with cutoff resistor or capacitor leads. The ones shown as going under the IC
sockets, can either go under the sockets or around them. The jumpers shown going off of
the stepper board to the the EDM board should be left long at this time.
4. Solder the IC sockets and terminal blocks in their correct positions. The IC sockets
have a "U" shaped notch or one corner with an angle cutoff to show correct orientation.
Solder the resistors and capacitors in their correct places. Resistors and the 100nF caps
are not polarity marked, BUT, the electrolytic "C1" 1uF is. Make sure the polarity is
correct before soldering. Make sure all soldered joints are sound and no "solder bridges"
are present.
5. Roughen the areas shown on both boards, with fine/medium sandpaper. Wipe them
clean with alcohol or acetone and let dry. Then glue them together with E-poxy glue and
let cure.
6. The jumper wires that were left long can now be cut to length and soldered to the
correct holes shown in the drawings. The holes on the main board are where the "U4" IC
went. Make sure that the jumpers are in the correct numbered positions.
The way this stepper board was designed, 'terminals 1 and 2', on the main board are now
the outputs to the speed control potentiometer. This 'pot' should be mounted on the front
panel on the pulse supply box and labeled as speed control. Holes #3 and #6 connect to
the terminals.
Hole #8 is the positive power supply to the stepper board. Hole #13 is the negative
power supply wire to the stepper board. Holes #10 and #15 are the electrode gap/ motor
direction connections from the main board. All of the original controls of Ben's design
still work as he designed them, just now they will control a stepper motor driver.

7. The three terminal blocks on the add on stepper board, go to the stepper motor driver.
The wiring diagram is shown on page #7 of the manual.
Terminal #1 is the 12V power connected to terminals, "pul +", "dir +" as shown in the
stepper driver manual.
Terminal #2 is the connection to the "dir -" terminal of the stepper driver.
Terminal #3 is the connected to the "pul -" terminal of the stepper driver.
The "ena +" and "ena -" terminals on the driver are not used.
The "R"(1k ohm resistors) shown in the stepper driver manual are built into the add on
stepper board. So don't add them into the wiring between the add on board and the driver.
If the motor rotates in the wrong direction, follow the directions in the driver manual, to
switch motor wires. Getting this correct the first time is a 50-50 proposition, and a normal
part of driver set up.
8. Included is the following A parts list showing the part numbers to order from "Farnell UK". The parts may be
available from other stores.
A picture of the uncut, as purchased pcb. It shows the highlighted corner and where to
cut the board to size.
Drawings of both sides of the add on board. One is the copper/trace side. The other is
the component/wiring side. The red highlighted corner is shown for orientation of the
board.
A drawing of the area on Ben's board that is modified.
Page #7 from the Leadshine driver manual, showing the wire connections between it and
the add on board.
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I've tried to address any and all foreseeable problems. There are sights on the internet that
have good tutorials to building "strip board" and "matrix board" circuits. The board I
choose to use for this project is the easiest one when using IC's in a design. You can use
another type if you are more familiar with it.
There are other chips similar to "U1" the ADG202. It was chosen because it is the only
one that has a high enough amperage rating to handle the driver control.
I hope this helps you out building your EDM.