Hull

The first job is to make the frames and there are instructions on the
SCRA website. The hull is built from precut planks supplied in a kit,
over plywood shapes called moulds. These are also supplied with
the kit and if the hull is built using these components it should be
virtually identical to all the other skiffs.
The plans supplied with the kit show the dimensions of the timber
parts, the keel, keelson, outer and inner stem and stern, collectively
known as the backbone. They also show dimensions for the
gunwales, seat crossmembers, seats, rudder and other components.
All these parts are not supplied with the kit and builders must
source suitable boat timber for them.
In the USA the kit includes plywood cut out for the rudder and seats,
but elsewhere it does not.
In Scotland, larch is the favoured timber, being strong, hard and
durable. Care must be taken to get timber with few or no knots
especially for components which will be bent, like gunwales and
laminated stems and sterns. The rules specify timber of no less a
density than larch, which has a density of 500-600kg/cubic metre.
When the hull is finished planking it is taken off the moulds and
turned right way up. This is a moment of celebration for the builders
and it is good to get everyone involved to celebrate it in some way,
as a way to involve the community and draw in potential rowers.
The boat is only about half built at this point and a number of
options now present themselves. The seats are designed to be
centred on the boats frames but it makes rowing easier if the
spaces between the seats can be slightly increased, which is
allowed in the rules. This can be done by centring the number 3
seat, counting from the bow, on its frame, and making seat 4, 2
inches or 50mm further aft. Seat 2 is 2 inches further forward and
seat 1 is 4 inches forward.
To do this it helps to have the crossmembers on seats 1 and 2 on
the forward side of the frames and for seats 3 and 4, on the aft side.
The next choice concerns the gunwales. The design calls for a solid
gunwale glued together with 3 layers of larch or equivalent on the
inside of the planking, and a small section rubbing strip on the
outside. The gunwale strips are dimensioned axb amidships but
taper off towards the ends of the boat in both height and thickness.
The gunwales in a lightly built racing rowing boat take a lot of loads
and need to be strong. They will be drilled with holes to take the

kabe or thole pin, which weakens them. Early in the history of the
class I took the decision to make spaced or hollow gunwales for our
skiff Ulla. We glued one of the three strips to the outside of the boat
as a rubbing strip. We glued blocks of wood at intervals inside the
planking and then glued the other two strips inside that. The same
wood was now spread over a greater width, making it stronger and
stiffer as a beam than the original gunwale. It also makes a very
good handle for carrying the boat, especially if the corners are
rounded off. The thole pins are drilled through the blocks which thus
do not weaken the gunwale strips. The gunwales are through
fastened by wooden dowels glued in place. The gaps between the
blocks make it easy to hose out sand from the boat.
If you are making spaced gunwales you need to cut the tops of the
frames off flush, and dowel the gunwale down into it after
installation. If you are making the solid gunwale it helps to leave off
the top parts of the frames till after the gunwales are in.
Seats need to be not more than 10 inches wide, the plans show 8
inches. They do not have to be very thick because the weight of the
rower is being carried by the crossmember. It helps to rest the ends
of the seat on plywood pads glued to the inside of the hull. A gap at
the ends of the seat lets that area dry out; in traditional boats it is a
prime area for rot both in the end grain of the seat and the planking
because rainwater wicks in and never dries out. Making the seats
removable with screws or wedges allows both areas to be painted.
Floorboards are shown made of solid timber, which is strong but
heavy. Plywood is quicker to fit but can also be heavy. Most boats
are now raced without floorboards and seem to stand up to the use,
but be generous with the epoxy in this area.
It is good to have a removable bung so that rainwater can drain out;
remember to replace it when rowing! A coxs seat is usually a
triangle of plywood glued into the stern planking although a lighter
one can be made of fabric slung from the gunwale.