Worlanyoh Kotoku PDF

GHANAIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY:
ITS PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
A Thesis submitted to the Department of General Art Studies,

Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology,
in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of
Doctor of Philosophy
(African Art and Culture)
By
WORLANYOH KOTOKU
Faculty of Fine Art, College of Art and Social Sciences
February 2008
DECLARATION
I hereby declare that this submission is my own work towards the PhD and that, to the best of my
knowledge it contains no material published by another person nor material which has been
accepted for the award of any other degree of the University, except where due acknowledgment
has been made in the text.
Worlanyoh Kotoku
20005676
Signature
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---------------------Student Number:
Date
Certified by:
Dr. Opamshen Osei Agyeman
(Supervisor)
------------------------
--------------------
Signature
Date
--------------------------
--------------------
Certified by:
Dr. Joe Adu-Agyem
(Head of Department)
Signature
ii
Date
PREFACE
There are a lot of problems confronting the jewellery industry that many writers have written
about. Some have offered meaningful solutions and suggestions. I have also written on the title,
The Ghanaian Jewellery Industry: Its problems and Solutions at the M.A. level, in which a lot
of problems were unearthed and solutions offered. Some of the problems are still hindering the
progress of the industry, and it is therefore still necessary to continue this research by comparing
and contrasting and researching further into the study of the suggestions of what other writers
have written. I will also try to write on what has not been covered by other writers, including
myself.
In the researchers previous thesis, I wrote that it was probably unusual for anyone to write
mainly on problems and solutions to the Ghanaian Jewellery Industry. As was stated in that
thesis, this writer was motivated by the fact that others who have written about the industry have
done so from the artistic point of view. There is therefore the need to look at the thesis as a
reference book for researchers, craftsmen, policy makers, also as a teaching aid, and as a
business guide.
It was difficult getting information for this work since there is scanty literature on the industry,
and also because most of the jewellers are illiterate who do not value research. Also, because of
suspicion, the jewellers were not ready to give out information or data. This researcher however
also relied on materials from libraries, newspapers, interviews as well as personal observations.
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Kumasi
W.K.
May 2007
iv
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I am very grateful to God Almighty for guiding me throughout the period of this research, and
humbly request that His blessings outpour on all names mentioned herein.
I am sincerely grateful to my supervisor, Dr. O. Osei Agyeman, of the Department of General

Art Studies, Faculty of Fine Art, College of Art and Social Sciences. I am also grateful to him,
because of his guidance, patience, and encouragement.
I would also like to thank Prof. Singh, Dr. Reuben Tamakloe and staff of the African Virtual
University, and the Faculty of Distance Learning, KNUST, who have been of tremendous
assistance in retrieving part of this work from the computer.
I wish to express my sincere gratitude to the following for their support encouragement and cooperation: Pastor Ransford Obeng, Mrs. Victoria Attoh-Kotoku, Miss Eyram Nana Yaa Kotoku,
and Mr Mawuena Kotoku.
I am thankful to the various shops, libraries and institutions visited in the course of writing this
thesis. Finally, I am indebted to all the authors whose works are sources of information for this
work.
ABSTRACT
Many developing countries including Ghana possess significant deposits of precious

and non-precious metals, materials, and stones, but many of these natural treasures are
merely exported as raw materials. Although the countries including Ghana have an
ancient tradition of jewellery production and a large handicraft capacity for
manufacturing, jewellery is only exported in very modest quantities, if any at all. This
potential can be exploited if the problems in the industry are identified and solved.
Ghanaian goldsmiths and other jewellers are all known for their important jewellery
manufacturing and have raised their work to the Master craft level, taking on
apprentices who help them to produce their works including jewellery. Jewellery is
widespread in all cultures in Ghana. The gems and jewellery often say something about
general identity, ethnic identity or the wearers status. It also reveals the culture in
which they originate.
Every imaginable resource and item can be used in jewellery production. Be it artificial
or synthetic material like plastic, broken bottle etc, or natural materials like leather,
animal bone, seeds, coconut shells egg shells, metals like gold, silver, brass, iron, and
even clay and tree backs, and also bamboo. In the course of carrying out this work,
surveys were carried out on both producers and consumers of jewellery products. The
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researcher at the end of the work, has unearthed as many problems and solutions as
possible.
The following methods of research were used to come out with this thesis:
Questionnaires to producers and consumers, personal interviews, documents including
books, journals, magazines, newspapers, and periodicals were also be used as regards
to the review of related literature and Internet.
This research project covered Accra, Ho, Kumasi, Koforidua and Cape Coast, and it is
hoped that with the recommendations implemented, and the government playing its
role, the jewellery industry in Ghana would live up to its desired expectation. Jewellers
must also know that they have a role to play in the success of the industry.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
DECLARATION..ii
PREFACEiii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT....v
ABSTRACT... vi
TABLE OF CONTENTS..viii
LIST OF MAPS....xiii
LIST OF TABLES.xiv
LIST OF FIGURES.xv
LIST OF PLATES......xvi
ABBREVIATIONS... xx
DEFINITION OF TERMS..xxiii
CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION1
1.1 Statement of the Problem.......1
1.2 Objectives of the study...2
1.3 Delimitation...2
1.4 Hypothesis.3
1.5 Statement of assumption3
1.6 Reasons for writing3
1.7 Limitation..4
1.8 Importance of the study.5
1.9 Methodology.6
1.10 Organization of Chapters..6
viii
1.11 Ethnographical background of Ghana.10

1.12 Climate and Vegetation12
1.13 Population18
1.14 Agriculture...19
1.15 Industries and infrastructural development.23
1.16 Traditional gold mining...29
1.17 Traditional goldsmithing..33
CHAPTER TWO: REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE.38
2.0 Introduction ..38
2.1 Gold...39
2.2 Beads42
2.3 Traditional beliefs....44
CHAPTER THREE: PRODUCTION PROCESSES: THEIR PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
79
3.0 Introduction ..79

3.1 Problems and solutions to land acquisition and development in Ghana80
3.2 Problems and solutions to location of jewellery work places..100
3.3 Problems of acquisition of tools and equipment .105
3.4 Manufacturing processes: Their solutions..114
3.5 Hallmarking and Assaying of precious metals .. 126
3.6 Melting of metals: Its problems and solutions ...142
3.7 Bead making process ..152
3.8 Lost wax casting ....154
3.9 Cuttlefish Bone casting ..... 163
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3.10 Finishing: Their problems and solutions .165

CHAPTER FOUR: MARKETING AND SALE OF GHANAIAN JEWELLERY: THEIR
PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS ...168
4.0 Introduction ...168
4.1 Infrastructural problems affecting sales: Their solutions ..169
4.2 Unattractive designs and finishing inhibiting large sales 169
4.3 Problems and solutions of poor display and packaging of jewellery 189
4.4 Problems of pricing: Their solutions ..193
4.5 Selling of jewellery: Its problems and solutions 197
4.6 Problems of insurance and their solutions .205
CHAPTER FIVE: DISCUSSIONS .208
5.1 Registration of jewellery shops as legal entities 208
5.2 Apprenticeship ...222
5.3 Workers Health and Safety ...233
5.3.1 Medical Check-Up....235
5.3.2 Prevention of children and pregnant women from entering workshop 235
5.3.3 Eating and drinking in the workshop . 236
5.3.3.1 Health and Safety signs/symbols relevant for the growth
of the jewellery industry in Ghana .. 242
5.4 Labour Problems ....253
5.5 Motivating the Human Resource in the jewellery industry ....260
5.5.1 McGregors Theory X and Theory Y Motivational Theory in
relation to the jewellery industry in Ghana...261
5.5.1.1 Theory X People and the jewellery industry in Ghana ...............261

5.5.1.2 Theory Y People and the jewellery industry in Ghana 263
5.6 Learning from South Africa ...267
5.7 Exchange of Human and Technology Resources ..269
5.8 Gold jewellery Information Handbook ..270
5.9 Formation of National Jewellery Council ..274
5.10 Costing and pricing of jewellery products ...275
5.11 Jewellery Marketing Research Centre .284
5.11.1 The marketing research process 285
5.11.2 Marketing problem definition 286
5.11.3 Marketing research design 287
5.11.4 Questionnaire design .288
5.12 PEST analysis ...288
5.12.1 Political factors ..289
5.12.2 Economic factors ...296
5.12.3 Socio-cultural factors .....298
5.12.4 Technological factors .....300
5.13 S.W.O.T. analysis of the Ghanaian jewellery Industry 302
5.13.1 Strengths 302
5.13.2 Weaknesses 303
5.13.3 Opportunities...304
5.13.4 Threats 304
5.14 Effect of HIV/AIDS on the production and sale of jewellery ......305
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CHAPTER SIX: METHODOLOGY .312

6.0 Background ..312
6.1 Sources of Data 315
6.2 Population size and the need to sample 316
6.3 Pre Testing of questionnaire .318
6.4 Data collection Instruments ..320
6.5 Data Analysis .322
CHAPTER SEVEN: SUMMARY, CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENTATIONS
7.0 Summary 323

7.1 Conclusion .325
7.1.1 Researchs new Findings ....329
7.1.2. Comparison between the research findings and the literature review.338
7.2
Suggestions and Recommendations342
7.2.1 Suggestions made in MA Thesis .343

7.2.2 Suggestions made in the Current Thesis .345
References.352
Glossary.357
Appendix A ..358
Appendix B ..366
Appendix C ..369
Appendix D ..370
Appendix E ..371
Appendix F ..377
Appendix G ..384
xii
LIST OF MAPS
Map 1.1 Map of West Africa showing Ghana ..8
Map 1.2 Map of Ghana showing the Ten Regions....9
Map 3.1 Site plan.92
xiii
LIST OF TABLES
Table 5.1 Interviews with some owners of some Jewellery shops ...209
Table 5.2 Form of Business ownership 209
Table 5.3 Number of years the jewellery shop has been in existence .210
Table 6.1 Distribution of sample size ..317
Table 6.2 Distribution of respondents and assumption that there was 100% respondents
.321
Table 7.1 Statistical data showing that the problems facing the jewellery industry can be solved
.328
with 100% respondents328
Table 7.3 Summary of various methods of testing gold.. 332
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LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 4.1 Response to whether purchase is influenced by design .172
Figure 4.2 Response from customers on how they see the design of jewellery produced in Ghana
..188
Figure 4.3 Views of customers on packaging of Ghanaian jewellery ..191
Figure 4.4 Customers impression about the price of Ghanaian jewellery ...196
Figure 5.1 Number of employees who receive some form of incentive apart from regular pay
...265
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LIST OF PLATES
Plate 1.1 A Chief and his court criers and sword bearers at a festival ...15
Plate 1.2 A woman adorns her headgear and body with jewellery at a
festival..16
Plate 1.3 Cocoa pods cut from the tree trunks and split open .21
Plate 1.4 Gold jewellery set made with cocoa design..21
Plate 1.5 The Adomi Bridge, near Akosombo .. 26
Plate 1.6 The Akosombo Dam with Lake Volta in the background26
Plate 1.7 Miners panning gold.31
Plate 1.8 Miners panning gold ....31
Plate 1.9 Miners panning gold.32
Plate 1.10 Alluvial gold after panning ...32
Plate 1.11 Goldsmiths working with traditional tools at Ho35
Plate1.12 Traditional goldsmith soldering with traditional tools at Adum,
Kumasi.35
Plate 1.13 Goldsmith from Sewua weaving a chain using traditional basic tools
..36
Plate 1.14 Woman jeweller producing Beads at Koforidua 36
Plate 2.1 The face mask of Tukukhamun 46
Plate 2.2 Traditional filigree jewellery produced by researcher .48
Plate 2.3 Fati of Aboabo Kumasi producing jewellery using grass 53
Plate 2.4 Young girls of Aboabo producing jewellery with plastic materials 54
Plate 2.5 Female goldsmith apprentice at work at Ho 57
xvi
Plate 2.6.Female students of the College of Jewellery in the studio ....58

Plate 2.7 Female students of the College of Jewellery with male counterparts.60
Plate 2.8 A protective talisman made from vegetable fibre and which includes glass beads and castings
..63
Plate 3.1 An allocation note signed by Nana Kwaku Sarfo II 91
Plate 3.2 Squatters along a railway line in Accra .......97
Plate 3.3 Opened Bead workshop in Koforidua ..104
Plate 3.4 Woman jeweller producing beads in an open workshop ...105
Plate 3.5 A set of modern casting tools made in Germany ..111
Plate 3.6 Cedi Djaba producing beads using a modern gas torch 116
Plate 3.7 Bottles used as raw materials in producing beads .119
Plate 3.8 Cedi Djaba pounding glass bottles in a metal mortar 120
Plate 3.9 Woman shaping beads using two metal pins .121
Plate 3.10 Hearth for firing powdered glass into beads 122
Plate 3.11 Bead maker in Koforidua using metal pins to shape beads ..123
Plate 3.12 A goldsmith at Ash-Town in Kumasi melting gold using traditional methods
...124
Plate 3.13 Hallmarking indicating legally accepted marks ..134
Plate 3.14a Basic workshop tools for making jewellery ..147
Plate 3.14b Basic workshop tools for making jewellery ..147
Plate 3.14c Basic workshop tools for making jewellery ......148
Plate 3.15 Saw frame showing direction of saw blade during insertion ......150
Plate 3.16 Saw frame with saw blade showing angle for piercing .......150
Plate 3.17 Pierced sheet metal with saw blade inserted 151
xvii
Plate 3.18 Mr Agyeman of Kurofufurom preparing wax threads ....157

Plate 3.19 Mr Agyeman preparing a wax model .....158
Plate 3.20 Sieving the ground charcoal ....159
Plate 3.21 Mr Agyeman covering wax model with smooth layer 160
Plate 3.22 Mixing palm fruit fibre with clay 161
Plate 3.23 Covering of the final mould with a mixture of clay and fibre 162
Plate 3.24 A goldsmith polishing jewellery ..164
Plate 4.1 Adinkra symbols and their meaning ..170
Plate 4.2 Adinkra symbols used in designing a necklace .171
Plate 4.3 Glass bottles as raw materials for making beads ...173
Plate 4.4 Suggestions of redesigned gye nyame symbol ..174
Plate 4.5 Otumfuo Osei Tutu II at the OroGold jewellery factory in South Africa
185
Plate 4.6 Beads jewellery displayed in an open showcase 198
Plate 4.7 Jewellery displayed in a showcase in front of a shop ....198
Plate 4.8 Imported filigree and bangles jewellery displayed 199
Plate 4.9 Brass cast jewellery displayed on a table ..200
Plate 5.1 An apprentice at Cedi Beads polishing beads with sand with bare hands
225
Plate 5.2 Corrosive material symbol 243
Plate 5.3 Flammable material symbol ..243
Plate 5.4 Explosive material symbol ....244
Plate 5.5 Toxic material symbol ...244
xviii
Plate 5.6 Ear protection sign. .245

Plate 5.7 Eye protection sign .245
Plate 5.8 No smoking sign ..246
Plate 5.9 Fire extinguisher location sign..246
Plate 5.10 Fire Exit location sign .248
Plate 5.11 First Aid post location sign.248
Plate 5.12 Wet floor warning sign ...249
Plate 5.13 No Entry sign 250
Plate 5.14 Electric voltage location sign ..251
Plate 5.15a Staff only indicator sign ...252
Plate 5.15b Staff only indicator sign ...252
Plate 5.16 Closed indicator sign ...253
xix
ABBREVIATIONS
1.
AGI: Association of Ghana Industries
2.
AGOA: African Growth Opportunity Act
3.
AIDS: Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome
4.
BA: Bachelor of Art
5.
BBA: Bachelor of Business Administration
6.
BESO: British Executive Service Overseas
7.
BFA: Bachelor of Fine Art
8.
BIS: Bureau of India Standards
9.
CEPS: Customs Excise and Preventive Service
10. C.P.P.: Contact Promotion Programme

11. DANIDA: Danish International Development Agency
12. ECOWAS: Economic Community of West African States
13. EPA: Environmental Protection Agency
14. FGJ: Federation of Ghanaian Jewellers
15. GEPC: Ghana Export Promotion Council
16. GIPC: Ghana Investment Promotion Centre
17. GNCCI: Ghana National Chamber of Commerce and Industry
18. GNFS: Ghana National Fire Service
19. GP: Gold Plated
20. GRC: Ghana Railways Corporation
21. GSS: Ghana Statistical Service
22. GTB: Ghana Tourists Board
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23. GTZ: German Development Co-operation

24. HIV: Human Immunodeficiency Virus
25. HND: Higher National Diploma
26. IMF: International Monetary Fund
27. ITTU: Intermediate Technology Transfer Unit
28. JSS: Junior Secondary School
29. KMA: Kumasi Metropolitan Authority
30. KNUST: Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology
31. L.I. Legislative Instrument
32. MOTI: Ministry of Trade & Industry
33. NBSSI: National Board for Small Scale Industries
34. NLC: National Labour Commission
35. NVTI: National Vocational Training Institute
36. PMMC: Precious Minerals Marketing Company
37. PSI: Presidents Special Initiative
38. RGP: Rolled Gold Plated
39. SSS: Senior Secondary School
40. SSNIT: Social Security and National Insurance Trust
41. TCC: Technology Consultancy Centre
42. TB: Tuberculosis
43. TV: Television
44. UAC: United African Company
45. UCC: University of Cape Coast
xxi
46. UK: United Kingdom

47. UNDP: United Nations Development Project
48. USA: United States of America
49. USAID: United States Agency for International Development
xxii
DEFINITION OF TERMS
1. Annealing: to make a metal or glass soft by heating and then cooling it slowly.
2. Assets: valuable properties of a person or organisation which can be used for the
payment of debts.
3. Casting: to make an object by pouring liquid such as molten metal into a shaped
container to become hard.
4. Depreciation: the act of causing something to become valueless overtime.
5. Electroplating: a quick and inexpensive way to make base metal look like gold. The
metal object is dipped in a gold plating solution and then an electrical current is used to
coat the object with a thin layer of gold.
6. Embossing: a technique of creating a raised design by pushing metal out from its
reverse side with hammers and punches.
7. Enamelling: fusion of a coloured glassy substance of metal to create a design.
8. Etching: a process of using acids to create a design on metal by corrosion.
9. Fabrication: to make or manufacture something from various materials.
10. Fine gold: gold containing no elements or metals. It is also called pure gold or 24
karats.
11. Fineness: the amount of gold in relation to 1000 parts. For example, gold with a
fineness of 750 parts (75%) gold and 250 parts (25%) of other metals.
12. Filigree: a delicate open work design often made by binding and soldering fine wires.
13. Gold alloy: a mixture of gold with other metals formed by melting them together. Gold
is alloyed (combined) with metals such a s silver, copper, zinc and nickel to reduce its
cost and change its characteristics such as its colour and hardness.
xxiii
14. Goldsmith: is a person who makes gold into ornaments.

15. Gram: the most wide spread unit of weight for gold jewellery.
16. Hallmark: an official mark stamped on gold, silver or platinum objects to indicate their
quality, origin and maker.
17. Jeweller: a dealer in jewels or maker of jewels.
18. Karat (carat):
a measure of gold purity. One karat is 1/24 pure, so 24 karat is pure
gold. Carat is the unit of weight for gemstones. These two words originate from the same
source, the Italian carato and the Greek karation which mean fruit of the carob
tree. In ancient times, carob beans were used as counter weights when weighing gems
and gold. Outside the US, karat is often spelled carat particularly in the
Commonwealth countries.
19. Lapidary:
the art of cutting gemstones or the one who cuts, polishes and engraves
them.
20. Pure gold: same as fine gold.
21. Shares: parts or portions of a larger amount, which is divided among several people or
to which several people or to which several or many people contribute.
22. Solder: a metal or metallic alloy used to join metals.
23. Soldering: the process of fusing two pieces of metals together with solder.
24. Solid gold:
gold that is not hollow. Even though legally in the US, solid gold can
only be used for 24k gold, it may commonly refer to karat gold which is not hollow or
layered.
xxiv
25. Trademark:
a mark that indicates the manufacturer, importer or seller of an item.
Trademarks must be registered with a patent and trademark office, and trademarked
items must have a quality mark.
26. Troy Ounce:
the standard unit of weight for gold. It may have been named after a
weight used in the annual fair at Troyes in France during the middle ages. 31.103 grams
= 1 troy ounce.
xxv
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
1.1 Statement of the problem

The jewellery industry, even though has been in existence for decades,
is still regarded as an infant industry bedevilled by numerous
problems. However, no one seems to have made persistent attempts at
solving them.
Although there is the Federation of Ghanaian Jewellers which is

supposed to be the umbrella association of all jewellery groups in the
country, be it Goldsmiths Association, Bead Makers Association, The
Jewellers Club, or Ghana Jewellers Union, it exists only in name. It has
not got a constitution or byelaws, and therefore cannot adequately
spearhead the affairs of jewellers. Also, it does not have a registered
office or permanent postal address.
The youth have no more interest in the jewellery craft because the few
elderly gold and silversmiths enshroud the craft in mystery and
secrecy (Kotoku, Unpublished MA thesis 2001:3). The same can be
said of the brass casting and bead making craft. Anybody who is not a
family member goes through a lot of frustration to get apprenticed.

The youth now prefer to engage in vocations that can give them quick
money like refining and selling of raw gold.
The above problems have necessitated the writing of this thesis. As

will be seen in the ensuing chapters, solutions and detailed
suggestions are offered to justify the statement of the problem.
1.2 Objectives of the study

The objectives of the study are:
i)
To find out the problems associated with the jewellery

industry in Ghana; and
ii)
To suggest probable solutions to the problems.
1.3 Delimitation
As much as possible, in this thesis, the researcher would cover the
following types of jewellery. These are, bead works, and brass casting
using the lost wax casting methods and cuttlefish bone casting. Also, to
be covered are other natural, artificial and synthetic materials used for
making jewellery. The thesis also discusses the problems associated
with the production and marketing of the various types of Ghanaian
jewellery, and offers suggestions for their solutions.
The research was based on selected jewellers, jewellery firms,

apprentices, stakeholders, and customers of jewellery products in five
towns from five regions in Ghana. These are Accra, in the Greater
Accra Region, Koforidua in the Eastern Region, Cape Coast in the
Central Region, Ho in the Volta Region and Kumasi in the Ashanti
Region.
1.4 Hypothesis
There are problems facing the Ghanaian jewellery industry which can
be identified and with proposals for their solution, they can be solved.
Arguments for and against the hypothesis will be advanced to find out
whether the above hypothesis is valid or not.
1.5 Statement of assumption

It is assumed that when the problems in the jewellery industry are
identified and solved, it will become viable, and earn the country high
foreign exchange, if it is also exported.
1.6 Reasons for writing

It is necessary to write this thesis because apart from jewellers who are
directly affected by the problems, the government also need to know
the problems so as to provide the necessary enabling environment to

implement the many suggestions so as to make the industry viable.
It is also necessary to write on this thesis because as far as the present

writer is concerned, as I wrote in my previous work, no one seemed to
have devoted his time to write only about the problems and their
solutions. Those who considered the problems and the solutions
shifted these subjects to the background because they did not tackle
them as the main objectives of their theses.
It is again necessary for this thesis to be written because a good labour

force is being wasted. This is because some of the youth who roam
about the streets selling items like dog chains could learn a trade like
jewellery making and thus earn a living, and also employ other people.
Jewellers have tried to work within the odds of the time but the
problems keep on retarding the growth of the industry. The industry is
unattractive to the youth who find it a primitive craft. Indeed, the
industry in Ghana, strives on outmoded technology, and it is hoped
that this thesis will contribute to the promotion of this industry.
1.7 Limitation
I would have liked to cover as many geographical areas and jewellers
as possible, but due to financial constrains and suspicion from
especially goldsmiths, since we are all in the same trade, it was not
possible to do so. During interviews, goldsmiths especially, were
reluctant to give out data or information on their operations. Another
area of concern is the unavailability of reading material and data on
the industry. The above limitations however, did not affect the quality
of the research.
1.8 Importance of the study

It is important to make this study because this work will be an
additional source of material to be used by interest groups in the
jewellery industry. Students of art and jewellers in general will also
find this book useful. Investors wishing to invest in the jewellery
industry may also use this book as a first hand source of information
as to which area of the jewellery industry is lucrative to invest in. An
investor or businessman with the aid of this thesis will decide on
whether to set up a training school or import modern equipment for
the industry, or how to market and what types of jewellery to import if
any.
Another important problem to be solved if the jewellery industry is to

become viable is the problem of unemployment in the country. This
point was mentioned in the researchers previous thesis, and it is
important to still stress it as one of the important aspects of the study.
This is because the devil finds work for the idle hand, it is said, and if
the numerous youth will find jewellery making worth learning, they
might go off the streets and produce not only to make money for
themselves but also it would enable them to lead decent lives.
1.9 Methodology
The methodology used in the writing of this thesis includes a review of
related literature, personal interviews and discussions with both
consumers and producers of jewellery. Photographs, tables and graphs
are also used to make points clearer where necessary.
Narrative, descriptive, analytical and interpretative methods are used

where and when necessary. Answers to questionnaires also serve a
useful purpose as far as the methods of approach are concerned.
1.10 Organization of chapters

The thesis is written in seven chapters, and these chapters are as stated
below.
The first chapter of the thesis includes the following: scope of work,
statement of the problem, limitations, objective, and reasons for
writing, hypothesis, and statement of assumption, methodology, and
historical background of jewellery production in Ghana. Chapter two
reviews the related literature on the thesis topic, i.e. the problems and
solutions to the Ghanaian jewellery industry.
The Third Chapter tackles the problems and solutions to the

production processes of the various forms of jewellery. It is discussed
alongside the production methods. Acquisitions of land for setting up
the workshop are also discussed in this chapter. Also discussed is the
problem of tools and equipment acquisition. The health implications of
not working in a clean environment are also tackled in the third
chapter.
The problems and solutions to the sale and marketing of jewellery are
discussed in chapter four of the thesis. Packaging and product display,
and pricing are also among the contents of chapter four. The various
types of pricing are discussed in depth in the fourth chapter.
In Chapter Five are the discussions, while Chapter Six gives the
methodology. Chapter seven is the summary of the thesis, which is
then followed by the conclusion and finally the suggestions and
recommendations.
Map 1.1 Map of West Africa, showing Ghana

(Source: Atta-Quayson, 1999:27)
Map 1.2 Map of Ghana Today showing the ten Regions

1.11 Ethnographical background of Ghana

As can be seen from Map 1.1, Ghana is located in the centre of West
Africa bordering the Gulf of Guinea and Atlantic Ocean to the south,
Cote dIvoire to the West, Togo to the east and Burkina Faso on the
northern border. The Republic of Ghana is named after the medieval
Ghana Empire of West Africa. Geographically, the position of old
Ghana was numerous miles north of the present Ghana, and occupied
the area between rivers Senegal and Niger. It is alleged that some
inhabitants of present Ghana have ancestral links with medieval
Ghana. This can be traced down to the Mande and Voltaic people of
Northern Ghana Mamprussi, Dagomba and the Gonja. Akans of
modern Ghana were also thought to be descendants of this great
empire.
The
Akans
of
present
Ghana
and
Mandikas
of
Senegal/Gambia who had strong links with the empire share names
like Danso. Ancient Ghana derived power and wealth from gold and
the introduction of the camel during the Trans-Saharan trade increased
the quantity of goods that were transported. Majority of the
knowledge on Ghana comes from the Arab writers, who described
Ghana as having the richest gold mines on earth. These mines were
situated on the upper Senegal River. Unfortunately, after the 12th
10
Century, the wealth of ancient Ghana began to decline. There were

numerous reasons for the decline. The King lost his trading monopoly,
at the same time drought began and had a long-term effect on the land
and its ability to sustain cattle and cultivation. It is, however, believed
that it is by sheer coincidence that modern Ghana was once known as
the Gold Coast, a name given to it by the Portuguese traders who
landed here in 1472, in recognition of an over-generous endowment of
the precious mineral. In Ghana, gold is at the centre of power and
wealth. Till today, the gold deposits of Asante, remain one of the
worlds richest and largest. No wonder, South Africas AngloGold had
to acquire Ashanti Goldfields in 2003 to remain in business because of
the high cost of mining gold in South Africa. Today, AngloGold
Ashanti of South Africa has captured the number two spot as the
worlds gold producer. Newmont Mining Corporation, the United
States-based gold producer, in 2002, became the worlds leading
producer of gold. AngloGold Ashantis feat was made possible by the
improved performance of ex-Ashanti Goldfields mines in Ghana.
With this development, analysts say positioning AngloGold Ashanti as
a leading gold producer in the world would not only expand and
sustain the Ghana Stock Exchange as one of the leading markets in
Africa but it would also further expose Ghanas potential as a perfect
destination for international investment. This was announced by Mr.
11
Daniel Owiredu, Chief Operations Officer, AngloGold-Ashanti (West

Africa) when he released the second quarter results of AngloGold
Ashanti at a press conference in Accra on the 15th August 2005. If this
assumption is true then there is the likelihood that there would be
increase in purchases including jewellery. A desire to control the
wealth in gold created a fierce struggle among several European
nations in the then Gold Coast and helped to shape a unique
contemporary historical tradition unknown in any other part of Africa.
The position of modern Ghana therefore offers tourists a simply vast
array of natural and manmade attractions that enables her to compete
favourably with any known tourist destination in the world. This trend
of Ghanas development has thus influenced a lot of people to
patronise its goods and services including jewellery, some of which are
produced in Ghana.
1.12 Climate and vegetation

The climate of Ghana is tropical, but the temperatures vary with the
season. In the southern part of Ghana there are two main rainy
seasons. The first rainy season is from May to July and the second from
September to November. In the Northern regions of Ghana, there is
only one rainy season and it begins in April and lasts till September.
The annual rainfall ranges from 1,100mm (about 43in) in the north to
12
about 2,100mm (83in) in the south. This means that there is sufficient
rainfall for farmers to have good yield to enable them to be able to
have enough money to buy their needs, including jewellery. The
harmattan, a dry desert wind, blows from the northeast from
December to March, lowering the humidity and creating hot days and
cold nights in the north. In the south the effects of the harmattan are
felt in January. In most areas the highest temperatures occur in March,
the lowest in August. The coolest time of the year is between June and
September, and December and January, when the main rainfall occurs.
Variations in temperature both annually and daily are quite small. The
average minimum temperature is around 23 C or lower.
It is
comparatively dry along the southeast coast; hot and sometimes

humid in southwest; hot and dry in the north. During these times, that
is between the rainy season and March, we have the Christmas season,
where jewellers who stop their production to go into farming, as we
shall see in chapter three, come to produce for Christmas, since that is
also when Christians celebrate the birth of Christ and usher in a new
year, with a lot of purchases, and shopping. The 2005 Christmas for
example, under the title Shoppers Besiege Accra, Donkor (2005:29) of the
Daily Graphic on the 24th December, 2005 writes that everywhere in
the city one can see people suffering from Christmas fever Accra is
bursting at its seams as people have flooded the business centre to do
13
last minute shopping. She continues that shoppers have besieged the
city centre shopping for clothes, gifts, food items and drinks. Aidoo
(2005:1) of The Ghanaian Times on the same day also wrote under the
heading, Its Xmas Again, The central business district of Accra was
agog with very brisk commercial activity with people doing 11th hour
shopping. Some of these gift items definitely will include jewellery.
In Ghana, the weather cannot be forecast more than a week or so in

advance, but weather averages are good indicators of what to expect in
the month. Because of the unusual climate pattern in Ghana, there are
a wide range and all year round traditional festivals and celebrations
that visitors can enjoy for their sheer colour, pomp and pageantry.
During these festivals, the chief, people and citizens use rich and
expensive body arts including jewellery. These occur because these
celebrations provide a deep spiritual connection for those whose
inclinations are directed towards these ends.
A few of the most popular festivals include the Homowo festival held
by the Gas in August. The Fantes celebrate the Fetu Afahye festival in
September, while the Aboakyir festival is celebrated by the Efutus. The
Anlos celebrate the Hogbetsotso while Odwira is by the Akwapims and
Dambai by the Dagombas. Over 90 ethnic groups celebrate various
14
traditional and cultural festivals and thus guarantee some type of

cultural extravaganza every week of the year. At all these festivals all
sorts of jewellery are worn as part of the regalia and paraphernalia of
the Chiefs and people. Plates 1.1 and 1.2 depict pictures of one of such
scenes from festivals.
Plate 1.1. A Chief and his court criers and sword bearers at a festival.
(Source: Ayensu, 1997:164)
15
Plate 1.2 A woman adorns her head gear and body with jewellery at a festival.
16
Much of the natural vegetation of Ghana depends on factors like the

climate and soil, as well as activities of living organisms including
man. In Ghana, Mans agricultural activities have led to the destruction
of much of the vegetation of the land, but there are still such beautiful
tourist attraction trees as the silk cotton, mahogany, and cedar in the
tropical forests of the south. Two-thirds of northern Ghana is covered
by savannah, with a scattering of trees including shear-butter trees,
acacias and baobabs, and there are also beautiful animals in the region.
These animals include leopards, hyenas, buffalos, elephants, antelopes
and monkeys. All these make the north a wonderful tourist attraction
spot. Tourists flood into the country to see the beauty of Ghanas
natural environment. These tourists buy a lot of souvenir items
including jewellery.
It must be noted that it is the climate that determines the vegetation

pattern and therefore influences agricultural activities, which largely
provide money to most of the people to also buy jewellery. Since
Ghana is mainly an agricultural country, the climatic conditions
influence peoples purchasing pattern. This is because farmers plant
crops like maize, cassava, millet, etc, which have short gestation
periods of between 30 to 90 days. The two farming seasons each year
17
in the south therefore make the farmers make sales and have enough
money to buy assets and also do a lot of shopping including jewellery.
1.13 Population
The Ghana Statistical Service source confirms that Ghanas population
is now 18.8 million. The figure which emerged out of the 2000
population and housing census represents a 50% increase over the
1984 headcount of 12,296,081. It also represents a growth rate of 2.6%.
Dr. Kwaku Twum-Baah, the then acting Government Statistician
announced this at a press briefing in Accra. He continued to say that
the birth rate had declined, and if it continued to decline, then Ghanas
population was likely to record less than 24 million for the next census
in 2010. Dr. Kwaku Twum-Baah named Ashanti Region as the most
populous region with 19.1% of the population, followed by Greater
Accra with 15.4% of the population and Eastern Region with 11.2%. It
must be noted that the three most populous regions in Ghana make up
45.7% of the population. These three regions fortunately are inhabited
with the upper middle class, and also include Accra and Kumasi that
have most of the hotels in Ghana. This implies that the growth rate of
the population could influence a change in the purchasing pattern of
the country. There may therefore be a likely increase in the purchase of
commodities including jewellery.
18
1.14 Agriculture
Ghanas agriculture sector plays a crucial role in reducing poverty and
achieving economic growth. Agriculture in Ghana accounts for nearly
50%of the Gross Domestic Product (GDP). About 66% of the labour
force is in agriculture (Alhassan, 1994:11). Agriculture is therefore the
mainstay of the economy providing employment and source of
livelihood to about 66% of the labour force. It is through agriculture
therefore that people get money to buy jewellery. A few of the farmers
practise mechanised farming, with majority still using traditional
methods. There is therefore the need for Ghana to shift agriculture
away from its subsistence level and transforming it into an
economically attractive more profitable sector. When this is done there
will be more money in the hands of the populace to buy more
luxurious goods like jewellery. The contribution of agriculture to
safeguarding income, employment and food supply and in turn to
reducing poverty among the rural population will make it possible for
farmers to buy jewellery either as presents or engagement rings to be
used to marry new wives.
19
The above not withstanding, there are still a number of factors that
contribute to low productivity which is still a great challenge in
agriculture. Some of these are farmers lack of modern technologies,
weak organisational structures due to high rate of illiteracy, and lack
of long-term investments. There are also high post harvest losses.
Small farmers have either no or hardly have any access to local or
international markets.
The Ministry of Agriculture is encouraging growth in the agriculture

sector by implementing reforms as well as investment programmes.
Efficient advisory services and access to other services are intended to
help farmers improve their production methods and thereby increase
yields and incomes. This will mean more purchases, and jewellery will
definitely be on the list. Cocoa production is another agricultural
activity that has indirectly had influence on the jewellery industry.
Whiles plate 1.3 shows a cocoa pod cut from the tree trunks and split
open, plate 1.4 shows a jewellery set designed depicting cocoa pods.
This is typical Ghanaian jewellery, and can be found all over the
Middle and Far East (Ayensu, 1997:132).
20
Plate 1.3 Cocoa pods cut from the tree trunks and split open
Plate 1.4 Gold Jewellery Set made with Cocoa pod design.
21
When Ghana gained independence from colonial domination in 1957,

it enjoyed economic advantages unrivalled elsewhere in Africa. The
economy was solidly based on the production and export of cocoa, of
which Ghana was the worlds leading producer. Cocoa production
occurs in the forested areas of the country, especially Ashanti, Western,
Brong-Ahafo, Central, Eastern and Volta Regions. The crop year begins
in October, when purchases of the main crop begin while the smaller
mid-crop cycle starts in July. During this period, goods and service
providers increase the prices of their goods and services because the
purchasing power of cocoa farmers goes up. With the Cocoa
Marketing Board buying all the cocoa produced in the country, except
those smuggled out of this country, and paying ready guaranteed
fixed price, the farmers buy all sorts of goods including jewellery
without even asking for a bargain. The cocoa farmers also pay
labourers and farm hands that worked on their farms because they
have now been paid for their produce. The labourers, also like their
bosses spend money extravagantly.
22
1.15 Industries and infrastructural development

In the late 1920s the artisans and craftsmen exhibited great indigenous
skills and talents in blacksmithing, goldsmithing, cloth weaving,
pottery, woodcarving, and the making and casting of brass artefacts,
which were the prevalent industries and trade at the time. Most of the
trades started as traditional family businesses in homes. The smiths
produced things like agricultural implements like hoes, bullock plough
blades, jewellery, and earthen pots.
These industries made a lot of contributions to the national

development efforts. Despite their significant contribution to national
development, they have been left to their fate in matters of national
development planning. Very little has been done to develop the
physical infrastructure of most of the villages where these crafts are
practised. Some of the infrastructures like schools, water, electricity,
roads, telecommunications, safety devices; waste disposal sites, etc. are
nearly non-existent in the villages. Most of the roads are un-tarred and
in bad condition and most of the buildings are built of temporary
materials. Even the only hospital for cocoa farmers; that is the Cocoa
Clinic is situated at Bubuashie in Accra (Ayertey, 2002:11). A second
one commissioned in 2004 is also located at Adum in Kumasi. No
wonder, the youth flock to the cities in order to enjoy these facilities.
23
As already noted, most of the trade started as informal family

businesses tracing their roots in the making of the crafts like the brass
artefacts, goldsmithing, woodworking, leatherwork and weaving. As
an informal sector, and since the rate of illiteracy is high, the
establishment of kinship ties and the recruitment of family members
into the enterprise was one of the surest ways to safeguard against
embezzlement, stealing of tools and undermining of the business
strength by non-family apprentices.
During the colonial period, the Gold Coast began to develop

economically. Roads and railways were constructed. A harbour was
constructed at Takoradi. In 1878 a Ghanaian by name Tettey Quashie
brought cocoa into the country. This eventually became the countrys
major cash crop. Large-scale commercial gold mining began, and
Western style of education was introduced, culminating in the
founding of the University College of the Gold Coast in 1948. The
education system trained a class of Ghanaians that found employment
in the colonial administration. This same class of educated elite sought
economic, political and social improvements as well as selfgovernment and eventually independence for Gold Coasters.
24
After the world war II, the drive for independence began in earnest
under the auspices of the United Gold Coast Convention and the
Convention peoples Party, the latter founded by Kwame Nkrumah in
1949. Britain granted Ghana independence on March 6 1957, under a
governor general as the representative of the crown and Nkrumah as
Prime Minister. In 1960, a new constitution created the Republic of
Ghana, and the same year, Nkrumah was elected president. Nkrumah
saw Ghana as the star of Black Africa, and believed that Ghana should
lead the effort to free the whole of Africa from the shackles of Western
colonialism. His ideas about African unity proved immensely
appealing in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Indeed, the Pan-Africanist
dream resonated across Africa in the 1990s, and in fact, even till today.
Nkrumah believed in a rapid transformation of the Ghanaian

economy. Under his rule the country underwent many infrastructural
developments including the building of roads, the Adomi bridge (plate
1.5) and other bridges, the Akosombo dam, (see plate 1.6), Tema
harbour, schools, hospitals, the Accra - Tema motor way, and some of
the government universities.
25
Plate 1.5 The Adomi Bridge near Akosombo (Source: researchers collection)
Plate 1.6 The Akosombo Dam with Lake Volta in the background
26
The development of these technologies and infrastructure led to the

setting up of many industries. The setting up of industries saw people
employed and being paid incomes that enabled them to buy their
needs including jewellery. Because of the road and rail transport,
goods and passengers were easily transported in the country, even
though during the rainy season some of the roads become impassable
because heavy rains wash away the road surfaces and bridges. The
absence of good roads at many places is therefore a great handicap
because of the problems of transporting raw materials to the factories
or markets. This notwithstanding however, as written earlier, they
have helped to transport raw materials, cocoa, timber and foodstuffs
into the markets and factories and also to the ports for export.
Transportation and movement of goods encouraged the distribution of
raw materials and jewellery in the country.
The main reason for building the Akosombo dam was to provide
electricity both for domestic consumption, and also for export. Ghana
therefore exported electricity to neighbouring countries like Benin,
Togo, and Cote dIvoire. Due to the increased demand for electricity
locally because of an increase in population, the export of electricity to
neighbouring countries had to stop. The availability of energy, though
27
expensive has facilitated the setting up of industries including

jewellery.
Tourism is also a priority sector in Ghana with a lot of incentives and

benefits for investors in this sector. There are also incentives for starrated hotels, and holiday recreational resorts. Other tourist attractions
in the country include waterfalls, beaches, forts, castles and other
historical sites, and even specialised restaurants. Because of the
incentives like tax and rate exemptions, many investors have invested
in this sector. The tourism sector therefore is well developing to
international standard, and therefore makes it possible for a lot of
foreign tourists to visit Ghana. With the influx of foreigners, who have
comfortable hotels to sleep in, industries associated with them make
good business for taxi drivers, restaurants and also handicraft dealers
including jewellers. Jewelleries are displayed for sale in most of the top
hotels in Accra and Tema. It is now easy to travel on a good network of
roads to buy goods like beads in Krobo - Odumase or other jewellery
from other places.
Mention must also be made of improved communication systems that

have made it easier, faster and more convenient to travel around to
shop for goods, including jewellery, especially by tourists. Ghanas
28
telephone system is run by Ghana Telecom and is relatively reliable.

However, there is overwhelmingly popular use of cellular telephones
in the cities. Ghana Telecom since 1996 has increased phone lines from
78,900 to 130,000 in 1997. The first cellular phone service in Ghana was
initiated by Mobitel in 1992. In that year alone, 19,000 Ghanaians
owned mobile phones. In 1998 the number of mobile phone users in
the country increased to 43,000 and by the middle of 1999 the number
increased to 68,000. Four companies now compete for cellular
customers, and usage has risen from 132,000 subscribers in 2000.
Today, the picture is different; there are close to three million mobile
phone users in the country. This is good news because today, certain
customers make jewellery orders by using their mobile or cellular
phones to call the jewellers.
1.16 Traditional gold mining

Even though this thesis is on the various types of jewellery, there is the
need to write on traditional gold mining and its technology. This is
because Ghana has a long tradition of gold mining technology and
gold smithing. It is also because gold plays a very important role in the
jewellery industry.
29
There are a lot of mining companies now in Ghana today licensed by

the Ministry of Mines to mine gold in Ghana, but the traditional gold
mining is still practised illegally in many parts of the country,
especially in towns and villages where gold is mined. As early as 1471,
the Portuguese recorded the production of gold by local Ghanaians
(Anquandah, 1982:41). This therefore implied that gold was being
mined in the country long before the coming of the Europeans to
Ghana. In the past, the local people obtained their gold mainly from
alluvial and superficial deposits. The alluvial gold is the gold that is
mined from water, or from deposits left by a flood, and the superficial
gold is the type that is mined from the surface, not deep or penetrating
into the ground. The method used to mine from either is by direct
panning, using large scale shallow pans that they swing or spin round.
They also swirl some of the deposits from the bed of the stream. In this
process, the gold, which is heavier, remains at the bottom of the pan,
whiles the dirt, which is lighter, is washed out. This method by which
the indigenous people washed for alluvial gold in the early 19th
century is still in use in certain mining communities in the country.
Between AD1400 and 1900, the Akans produced gold by traditional
methods (Anquandah, 1982:42). Plates 1.7, 1.8, and 1.9 depict miners
using traditional methods to pan gold from water bed; whiles plate
1.10 shows the gold after panning.
30
Plate 1.7 Miners panning for gold. (Source: Ayensu, 1997:49)
31
Plate 1.10 Alluvial gold after panning (Source: Ayensu, 1997:55)
The gold produced was normally exchanged for salt and other
commodities. Among the people of ancient Ghana, gold dust was a
32
major factor in the development of a civilisation of well organised

kingdoms and gold used as currency, was used to buy all their luxury
goods from abroad (Anquandah, 1982:45).
1.17 Traditional goldsmithing

Goldsmithing started quite early in Ghana, because of the availability
of the raw material, gold in the country, and also because people had
the taste for gold ornaments either for their own use, or as a store of
wealth. People also bought ornaments in large quantities because they
used them to adorn their bodies. Gold jewellery was also used as
currency to exchange goods bought from Europeans.
Chiefs and the wealthy persons in the society also use jewellery on
festive occasions to show their social status in the society. Jewellery
making also served as a source of employment for both the smiths and
traders who sell the products. Jewellery is also used in burying the rich
including Chiefs. This is done as a sign of respect and dignity accorded
to the dead. This is because the Ghanaian believes that the soul is
immortal or there is life after death.
In the olden days, the goldsmiths workshop was always made up of

males. This was because of the belief that if a woman worked as a
33
goldsmith, it would affect her fertility. Goldsmiths usually clustered

together and were usually under royal control. They produced only for
the Chiefs and the affluent in society. Today in the bead jewellery
industry, some females however produce and sell them as can be seen
in plate 1.14 of a woman in the process of producing beads.
Presently also, as in the past, they still work in small corners or in a

shade. They also have a furnace besides them in which they can melt
their gold in order to cast it into jewellery. Professor Anquandah
mentioned Ross and Coles publication, The Arts of Ghana, which
provides numerous illustrations of Akan gold objects that are either in
private collections or in museums. These are eloquent testimonies of
Akan expertise in goldsmithing. The ranges of products are from gold
leaf jewellery to cast necklaces, rings, beads, bracelets and hollow-cast
sword ornaments. The traditional methods of making such jewellery
have been very slow. This might be partly due to the fact that in the
past, jewellery was a preserve for the chiefs and the kings and
therefore did not have a wide market.
34
Plate 1.11 A goldsmith working with traditional tools at Ho.

(Source: Picture by researcher)
Plate 1.12 A traditional goldsmith soldering with traditional tools at Adum,

Kumasi. (Source: Picture by researcher)
35
Plate 1.13 Goldsmith from Sewua weaving a chain using traditional basic
tools. (Source: Picture by researcher)
Plate1.14 Woman jeweller producing beads at Koforidua.

(Source: researchers collection)
36
It was also because in the olden days as we have today, there were no
sophisticated tools and equipment to produce jewellery in large
quantities. As can be seen in plates 1.11 to 1.13, certain Ghanaian
smiths still use very simple and outmoded tools to produce their
jewellery.
37
CHAPTER TWO
REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE
2.0 Introduction
The current review of related literature is beneficial because it intends
to help the researcher and other readers to be sure of what previous
writers have so far covered, or not, on the subject being investigated in
this PhD thesis. Knowing what previous writers have covered is
especially beneficial to the researcher because it will reveal the
uncovered grounds where the current research should be directed, to
enable me to contribute significantly to the growth of knowledge in the
jewellery industry. The present review is also important because in the
process of searching through literary works, the researcher will acquire
more research techniques and uncover new problem solving methods
that can be applied to resolve new problems that may be encountered
in the current research.
The review will further help to reasonably compare and contrast the
new findings with old documentary materials to enhance this PhD
thesis. Moreover, this review is particularly advantageous because it
will enrich the researchers manufacturing skills as a jeweller.
38
Though the present literature review incorporates the previous one,

the old information is not a verbatim transcription in the current
review. That is, old sentences have been recast, though the ideas
remain the same.
2.1 Gold
Even though many kinds of raw materials are used in making
jewellery, one of the most popular materials used in Ghana is gold.
Gold has been in existence since creation, for as read from Genesis
Chapter Two, verses ten to twelve of the Holy Bible:
and a river went out of

Eden to water the garden; and
from thence it was parted, and
become into four heads;
The name of the first is Pison:
that is it, which compasseth
the whole land of Havilah
where there is gold;
and the gold of that land is
good: there is bdellium and the
onyx stone. 1
King James Version of the Holy Bible
39
The location of gold since creation, under rivers, or under the ground,
has made it very difficult to mine, and also an expensive raw material
for the making of gold jewellery. This may therefore account for its
scarcity and high value. This therefore means that even though gold is
a natural gift, its method of mining makes it expensive.
Gold mining has been taking place for many centuries in this country.
Many writers have testified to this; and according to Anquandah,
(1982: 34)
Gold is of particular interest to the archaeologist and

historian since it was mined [in this country] in preEuropean times, probably as early as the 14th century
and provided the basis for long-distance trade between
the Akan on the one hand and the Mende and European
traders on the other hand.
This observation by Anquandah is generally accepted by Ghanaian

historians to be true, and in an article in The Mirror of Saturday, 28th
December 2002, Professor James Anquandah again wrote that, this
country had tremendous gold deposits in its ancient rocks which have
been exploited for ages. He continued:
40
It appears, however, that the cost of production by

means of modern technology [in Ghana] has in recent
times been escalating. Ghana continues to produce gold
today, but the income from the gold industry has
somewhat declined (Anquandah, 2002:18).
In fact, the rising cost of gold mining in the country, which Anquandah
has referred to, is partly due to old and inefficient machinery, and is
also due to ineffective production methods used by the workers. While
alluding to crude mining implements used in this country in the olden
days, Professor Anquandah wrote as follows,
The simple implements, which were employed in the

industry,
were
described
by
19th
century
Basel
Missionaries as including a long-bladed spade for

digging, a wooden bucket, for bailing out water or for
hoisting up the earth containing gold, and a bowl for
washing the gold (Anquandah, 2002:18).
As far as we know, these simple mining instruments are still used by

certain surface miners in Ghana. Anquandah (1982:34) also wrote in
his Rediscovering Ghanas Past, which is an archaeological documentary,
that the older rocks of Ghana are rich in economically exploitable
minerals including gold, diamonds, bauxite, and manganese. All that
Professor Anquandah has written in his articles and books confirm
41
that even though gold has played a very important role in trade and
commerce for many centuries, its mining is still beset with numerous
economic and technological problems. Apart from these problems,
there are a lot of health and environmental hazards discussed later in
this thesis.
In her Jewellery Source Book, Scarisbrick (1998:14) writes: Gold occurs

naturally in the earth in an attractive ready-to-use state. A large
quantity of the mineral is exported from Ghana in the raw state; the
local people worked the remainder of the mineral into jewellery and
ornaments such as state regalia. The local people use handcrafted
methods, including local casting that are often very tedious and time
consuming, in the production of the ornaments. These will be
discussed in full in chapter three. We, however, remark that, since gold
dust is believed to have been in existence in the ground since creation,
the use of gold in jewellery making in the world is slightly younger in
creation.
2.2 Beads
Apart from gold, beads are popular and precious jewellery in Ghana
and other parts of the world. Beads can be said to be small pieces of
coloured glass, wood, stone, shells, metals or plastic etc with a hole
42
through the middle, usually strung together and used for jewellery or
decoration. Beads are therefore human artefacts that have been in
existence since the dawn of civilization. Human beings, of different
parts of the world, many millennia ago, were fashioning small objects
of animal bone and teeth, seashells and colourful stones strung on
especially plant fibre to adorn their bodies and clothing. The story of
the development of trade and commerce in West Africa can also be
traced through the history of beads. Anquandah (1982:26) says
When the European nations ... established trade and

cultural contacts with the locals, among the goods and
products which they introduced in exchange for gold,
slaves, ivory were glass beads of different colours which
became very popular with the local female population.
The probable reason Anquandah gave for the use of beads in

commerce which I agree with is that the glass beads were cheap, light
and easily transportable Beads were therefore shipped in millions to
West Africa around the 1650s (Anquandah, 1982:26).
In the book, Jewellery-World crafts, by Doney, (1996:4) he also confirms

global use of beads as currency: beads were used for many years as
currency for trading. People traded beads for goods. Beads therefore
43
played an important role as currency in commerce and trade in the

past, but today, with the introduction of banknotes, cheques and ecommerce, there may probably be a decline in the use of beads as
currency. There has also been a shift of the use of beads from currency
to fashion.
2.3 Traditional Beliefs

Most cultures have used jewellery either on account of spiritual beliefs,
aesthetic tastes, or for some other reason. Beads for example, were
possibly manufactured to enhance the spiritual power of say hunters
over their prey, to bring luck, and to protect the wearer from danger
and harm, and also to strengthen the connection with the spiritual
world (Doney, 1996:4). The problem here is that since there is the
traditional belief in the wearer having an advantage over his preys or
enemies, there is the likelihood of substituting the wearing of jewellery
for hard work. This is because instead of working hard to increase
yield, the farmer or hunter may falsely rely on wearing of say, a
talisman, which is believed to have supernatural powers to boost up
yield. The carpenter instead of producing quality products may also
rely on the use of jewellery to attract customers to buy his products.
The use of jewellery for supernatural purposes is also displayed
during festivals. Palanquin carriers to protect a Chief from his enemies
44
from pulling him down to fall from the palanquin and be disgraced
wear talismans on the waist. On another supernatural use of jewellery,
Scarisbrick (1998:8) again writes that, the beauty of gold, in the eyes of
early man, meant that it was frequently singled out as a fitting gift for
the gods or a suitable accompaniment for the dead. In Ghana,
especially among the Akans, it is a custom to bury the corpses of royal
people with certain items including gold jewellery. When the corpse is
being placed into the coffin, he is accompanied with money, beads,
blankets and other precious objects which the people think he may
need on his way or on arrival at his destination (Sarpong, 1974:36). It
is believed that there, the dead person is supposed to lead the same life
that he led while on earth. A chief here is a chief there; a farmer here is
a farmer there (Sarpong, 1974:36). The disadvantage associated with
burying the corpse with the above listed items is that the jewellery or
art works are wasted even though the producers derive some income
from the bereaved to whom they sell them. They may however be
excavated by archaeologists in future, but at a high cost. Regarding
this, Anquandah (1982:4) writes of reports on archaeological
discoveries such as the Egyptian Tutankhamun burials, the Meroe and
Ballana royals buried with gold jewellery. The most famous piece of
gold jewellery in the world is believed to be the face mask of the boyking of Egypt (1361-1352 BC), Tutankhamun. Howard Carter
45
discovered this mask in his tomb in 1922. Ayensu (1997:30)

corroborates this that when the tomb of the Egyptian pharaoh was
opened in 1922, the incredible amount of gold it contained was still
untarnished after thousands of years. This tomb preserved some of the
greatest treasures of the goldsmiths art. This facemask is normally
displayed in the Cairo museum. (Refer to plate 2.1)
Plate 2.1 The face of Tukukhamum. (Source: Ayensu, 1997:30)
46
This shows that even though a lot of jewellery and precious items are
buried with the dead due to traditional belief, it gives ready market
and income to those who produce them as stated earlier, on the other
hand, the supernatural use of jewellery for the solution of problems as
said earlier also, may encourage laziness and low productivity since
people may falsely rely on its supernatural power for abundant yield.
The concept of jewellery making in general is timeless. People have
always had an instinctive desire to adorn themselves. Simple
ornaments of berries, soft stones, animal teeth and the like date back to
the Stone Age, as do some simple gold objects. Scarisbrick, (1998:15)
writes that, in Western Europe, a gold jewellery industry was
flourishing soon after 2500 BC. By 2000 BC, the goldsmiths in the Near
East had developed the skills necessary to form, manipulate and join
small components. Their designs reflected all aspects of the societies in
which they blossomed. Religion, superstition, social organization,
economics, trade, and warfare all played a part. Ancient gold jewellery
was made with a minimum assortment of tools and these were simply
made from metal, wood or bone. Todays jeweller or goldsmith just
like the ancient goldsmiths does not also require sophisticated tools
and equipment to produce his jewellery. Techniques included
granulation and filigree. Traditional goldsmiths still produce jewellery
using granulation and filigree techniques that are labour intensive and
47
time consuming. Plate 2.2 shows filigree jewellery produced by this

researcher. Anquandah (2003:16) confirms this in another article in The
Mirror of 4th January 2003, that today only a few goldsmiths can be
seen operating in Ghana. They still employ the old traditional methods
which were in vogue in earlier centuries.
Plate 2.2 Traditional filigree jewellery produced by writer. (Source: Picture by

researcher)
48
There once existed the gold and silversmiths association, which was
set up around 1909 and grew to become a powerful union of
traditional craftsmen. This Prof. Anquandah (2003:16) says it is a
testimony to the importance of traditional gold industry in Ghana.
Prof. Anquandah is of the view that there was a modern industrial

revolution in Ghana between 1891 and 1911, which might have
changed the traditional production methods of mining and processing
gold, especially, with the establishment of Ashanti Goldfields. This
produced the breakthrough in the industry by introducing a rather
large-scale highly mechanised process of removing ore in large
quantities and milling it to recover the minute of the precious metal.
On Industrialisation in the third world countries, Geoffrey Hurd

(1986:17) writes in his book, Human Societies An Introduction to
Sociology that, developments in the field of microprocessors have
dramatically increased productivity (and thereby reduced demands for
labour) in some manufacturing industries. Hurd continues that, the
development of microprocessors has also brought cheap computing
power to production processes. This therefore means that with basic
modern machines, production could be increased. Care must however
be taken so that the technology employed will be of relevance to the
49
society. Care must also be taken not to unnecessarily lay off labour to
create unemployment.
Hurd (1986:22) again continues to write that,

The most advanced industrial technology of the day,
however, is unlikely to be that which is best suited to the
resources of a given non-industrial society...The new
technologies are likely to be too expensive to maintain, to
require considerable and continuing expenditure of scarce
foreign exchange on spares and foreign technicians.
About the manufacture of jewellery, Rene Newman in her book, The
Gold Jewellery Buying Guide writes that In Europe, a higher percentage
of the jewellery is hand-fabricated compared to the United States. They
(Europeans) also like the personal touch of dealing with a jeweller who
makes a piece from start to finish (Newman, 1993:47). Handfabrication even though it makes the product unique, is one of the
major problems facing the jewellery industry. This makes it difficult
for the industry to expand. Also, one needs to employ many jewellers
to work on a few pieces instead of using a machine or equipment
operated by one person to do mass production. Handcrafted jewellery,
however, has a disadvantage of a time consuming process as expressed
by Anquandah earlier, and is therefore more expensive. For this
50
reason, some jewellery buyers totally avoid handcrafted jewellery

because they assume they are too expensive and therefore
unaffordable, but it is not always so. The masses should therefore be
educated about it. But for a country like Ghana, where there is
abundant labour, it is most times cheaper to handcraft jewellery since
it is evident that the diffusion of the technologies and practices of
Europe and North America to the Third world is not all gain (Hurd,
1986:22). There are often unintended consequences that subvert the
objectives of both planners and practitioners. The third world in the
1970s has been adopting small-scale, relatively cheap, labour-intensive
technologies which provide the added bonus of modest inroads in
unemployment. It is often very difficult for politicians and government
advisers to resist the lure of the latest Western technology, for specially
adopted intermediate technologies even if they sometimes prove more
expensive. The Green Revolution as reported by Geoffrey Hurd
provides a good example, that, there were the effects that externally
induced technological change had on the social structure of rural areas.
The benefits accrued to the wealthier farmers while the rural poor in
some cases actually suffered a decline in income, resulting from even
more effective competition.
51
Hurd continues to give another example on misappropriation in the

third world as follows: Every year there is brain drain of medical
personnel whose training represents a major portion of the health
budget of the poor societies.
Paul Harrison (1979:22) also gives another example of the problematic

nature of the diffusion of technology in the medical and health services
in the Third World. This problem applies not only to the medical and
health sectors, but applies to other sectors including the handicraft and
jewellery sectors. He puts it this way,
The typical Third World doctor is an intriguing piece of

very inappropriate technology...At the end of his training
the doctor will often be better equipped to handle Western
ailments.
From the above examples from other sectors or professions, it can be

deduced that in attempting to solve the problems of the jewellery
industry, emphasis must be on developing appropriate technology,
taking into consideration the availability of labour and raw material, so
that Ghana is not worse off. Until the period of mass production
arrives, simple implements and tools can be used in producing
jewellery so that the poor youth in the rural areas can also take
52
jewellery production as a vocation. The raw material must not

necessarily be an expensive metal like gold, but any suitable object.
Shells, ivory, bones, plastics, glass, stones, clay and other non-metals
are all materials that can be used in making jewellery. Fati of Aboabo,
Kumasi, producing jewellery using grass, as can be seen in plate 2.3. In
plate 2.4, the young girls also of Aboabo produce jewellery using
plastic materials.
Plate 2.3 Fati of Aboabo, Kumasi, producing jewellery using grass.

In Charles Adu Boachies unpublished B.A. thesis, The Challenges of
the Ghanaian Jeweller in the face of Technological Development, he quoted
De Bellefond S.V. and could not hide his surprise at the amazing skills
of our ancestors, by making this statement, and to speak the truth, they
53
are so happy as to surpass all the craftsmen I ever saw; their files are
much finer than ours and will make their work fine as our filigree
(Bellefond, 1669:28). The traditional goldsmiths and jewellers who took
over the trade from the older generation have had very little change in
terms of technique. De Bellefond (1669:6) also attests that the
handicraft jewellery making involves mostly using the hand, equipped
with basic tools and equipment to make jewellery it needs just a small
capital base. Even though De Bellefond mentions as above, that small
capital base is needed to set up a jewellery shop, in todays poverty
stricken Ghana, very few goldsmiths and jewellers after their training
and apprenticeship can raise the capital to start their own workshops.
Plate 2.4 Young girls of Aboabo producing jewellery with plastic materials.
54
Gentille (1973:11) also writes that

During the medieval times, it was the Church that was the
inspiration for creative efforts and also the recipient of
finished works of jewellery. ... Since the beginning of time,
man has made his jewellery from the objects that have
surrounded him, and today, tribal peoples use those
selfsame materials shells, bone, wood, seeds, and feathers,
all in a variety of colours... of rich brilliance.
This buttresses the point that since time immemorial, any natural
object with an unusual colour or shape, or with a hole in it, was used
to make the earliest jewellery (Doney, 1996:4). Jewellery makers, or
jewellers, are always looking out for rare or unusual items to include
in their work. Everyday objects like seeds and grasses, feathers, shells
and animal bones were some of the first sources of simple jewellery
(Doney, 1996:5). As mentioned earlier, other forms of material apart
from gold were used in the making of jewellery. As part of efforts at
expanding the industry therefore, just as other writers have written
earlier, other materials are recommended rather than only gold which,
apart from being expensive, might not make jewellery, especially
fashion jewellery creative enough.
55
Tools for making jewellery in Ghana today are still outmoded and
crude. Charles Adu Boachie writes in his unpublished BA thesis that,
the hard and rough bark of cuttle-fish bone served as a file, among the
early goldsmiths of Nungua (Boachie, 1994:8). In Ashanti and the
central part of Ghana, it is generally held that, acquisition of metal
tools by their ancestral craftsmen was linked with the advent of the
craft of blacksmithing that is traced to have started among the early
Akan ethnic groups during the period of the slave trade. Some of the
old goldsmiths according to Boachie (1994:8) started with the use of
stone hammers, stone anvils, some rough surfaced leaves serving as
emery etc. With the coming of the white man however, Boachie
(1994:8) continues, tools of higher precision and efficiency were
brought by the Whiteman. The present researcher is of the view that
jewellery production is more of a skill, and employs more labour than
machines. It seems therefore that apart from offering employment, this
is not good for the Ghanaian economy. This is because production will
be at subsistence level.
In his unpublished BA thesis, A Manual on Jewellery Making for Adult

Beginners, Apenteng (1994:10) confirms that jewellery making is not as
popular as the other crafts. The craft is associated with ideas of magic
and religion which forbids women from doing it. Gerald Apentengs
56
view in this case, seems to refer to the production of gold and other
types of metal jewellery, rather than bead making, which from time
immemorial, has been the work of women in Ghana. Even the taboo
that prevented women from making metal jewellery in Ghana has
been relaxed greatly. This is because in the Metal Section of the College
of Art, KNUST, the College of Jewellery at Weija, a suburb of Accra
and at PMMC in Accra, many women have now been producing metal
jewellery,
especially
gold
jewellery.
Female
apprentices
in
goldsmithing were also seen in some workshops during the

researchers fieldwork.
Plate 2.5 Female goldsmith apprentice at work at Ho.

57
Plates 2.5, 2.6 and 2.7 depict photographs of females in the goldsmith
trade taken by the researcher. Akabuo, (1988:14) also confirms that in
the Anfoega area in the Volta Region of Ghana, women are also not
entertained in the profession. It could be remembered that we have
already criticised this idea, since we have shown that women have
never at any time in this country, been prevented from making beads.
Also, we have shown that these days, many women are producing
metal jewellery.
Plate 2.6 Female student goldsmiths of College of jewellery in the studio.

58
Today, in the Metals section, of the College of Art, KNUST, there are
about more females than males training in jewellery. Some of the
females, after finishing their course, practise jewellery making. The
modern trends in which females participate in jewellery making in
Ghana, is in line with what some females do in some other countries.
Womens participation in the making of jewellery in Ghana today may
not be a peculiar matter (Kotoku 2001:35). This is because, the
following quotation from the Jewellery Source Book mentions the
making of jewellery by men and women in many parts of the world,
and jewellery in this case, may include metal jewellery.
The story of jewellery over seven thousand years of

civilization covers the response of successive generations of
craftsmen and women to the challenge of fashioning rare
and precious materials into personal ornament that express
the prevailing artistic style (Scarisbrick, 1998:8).
The use of the word women in the above shows that even about
seven thousand years ago, women were practising goldsmithing: but
in Ghana, womens participation in the craft has delayed until recently
when womens participation is mainly confined to academic
institutions due to traditional beliefs and religion. A probable reason
59
why women were previously not allowed to practise goldsmithing

might be that the traditional smiths before the commencement of work
used to perform religious rites. These rites were not performed when a
woman was in her menstrual period. Even still, a woman in her
menstrual period is believed to be impure whiles the smith must
always be in a state of purity.
Plate 2.7 Female student goldsmiths with male counterparts, all of College of
Jewellery in the studio. (Source: Picture by researcher)
According to Adjei (1992:28) in his unpublished thesis, under certain
circumstances he (smith) should abstain from sex in the course of
making a particular work. Ablution and abstinence from sex by the
smith is seen as a moral guidance toward successful work.
60
In her book, The Art of the Negro Peoples, Leuzinger (1960:35) also writes
that,
The fear of forces unleashed by working the material

necessitates
compliance
with
certain
rules
before
commencement of operation. Abstinence and fasting,

sacrifice and prayer these more often than not, are the laws
that govern the Negros mode of work. The priest blesses
his tools before each new phase of work.
Prayer by the smith in the form of dedication and incantations to the

spirits of gold, fire and air before work starts is a form of insurance
against the wrath of these spiritual forces, and also towards successful
work. Today, most Christians also pray for good sales or production
before commencing of work. The problems associated with these are
that some people take any mishap or bad output to mean he wrath of
God. They therefore instead of putting up sound business practices,
they rather spend days in shrines, prayer camps and church houses
seeking healing for their sick businesses.
Women are likely not to be able to keep themselves pure due to

pressure from their husbands and thus offend the gods. The researcher
61
in his interview with goldsmiths reveals that the older smiths still
believe in this taboo that women should learn goldsmithing. However,
as pointed out earlier, certain goldsmithing workshops have now
taken on female apprentices. The government and the Federation of
Ghanaian Jewellers should take up the challenge to educate the older
goldsmiths to accept female apprentices. This is because, since they are
more experienced, they would impart their knowledge to the younger
generation including girls. As written earlier, the Metals Section of the
College of Art, KNUST, trains females in jewellery. The College of
Jewellery, in Accra, also trains female goldsmiths. Females interested
in learning goldsmithing would be gainfully employed after their
training. When they are employed it will reduce poverty.
In most African societies, it is common to hear people speak of mystery

in crafts including metal crafts and wood sculpture. These mysteries
continue to serve as a hindering factor to the growth of the jewellery
industry, more fully than anything else to reveal the extraordinary
deep sympathies hidden in the heart of the African (Laye, 1973:161).
The Africans way of life is full of a mystery a system of life, which
has been encoded in their arts and crafts including jewellery and
goldsmithing. Since gold jewellery is generally regarded more
valuable than any other ornament, because of its precious nature, and
62
the difficulty with which it is acquired, society takes great care of it in

the form of regalia and priceless ornaments in the courts of the Chiefs
and Kings.
Plate 2.8 Protective talisman made from vegetable fibre and includes glass
beads and gold castings. (Source: Ayensu. 1997:167)
Some of these ornaments like armlets and other artistic forms were the
basis of their magic and religious practices (Adjei, 1992:46). Plate 2.8 is
an example of protective talisman jewellery worn on the wrist. The
Ashanti of Ghana and the Fon of the Republic of Benin did various cast
gold works for similar purposes. The Golden Stool of Ashanti is
believed to represent the soul of the people of Ashanti and in the olden
63
days it was said to have unified the state towards a common enemy.
The stool is still a mystery even to the Ashanti to whom it belongs.
The smiths formed guilds at the Chiefs court and produced some of
their regalia. These were used to impress the public and to signal
amongst themselves (Chiefs and Kings) differences in rank and to
commemorate major events in history (Mcloed, 1981:72). The Ghanaian
Indigenous goldsmith stresses so much on the spiritual aspect of the
craft to the extent that most of the symbols and themes used in the
craft are based on socio-religious life of the society. This limits the
scope of design and has influenced the design of Ghanaian jewellery
even up to today. Laye (1973:162) also points out that, everything that
our various metal workers made was inseparable from the mystery; it
was directly connected with the cult, and magic. Akabuo (1988:15) has
this to say, during research, goldsmiths still do not want to give
information and still hold jewellery in mystery. The problem here is
that since the goldsmiths refuse to give out information and data, the
industry will continue to remain stagnant and will not see any growth
as is happening now. The goldsmiths believe that the knowledge they
have is sacred and must not be shared. They also refuse to acquire new
knowledge. There is therefore also, a falling standard in the industry,
as pointed out earlier, with designs being outmoded and overused.
64
Tools and equipment are also outmoded. The result is poor product
craftsmanship and finish.
Joseph Adjei writes, that as the gold is being refined, the smith mutters
prayers to the spirits of fire, air and gold. His (the goldsmiths)
apprentice sets to work on the bellows until a flame springs to life and
on it is placed the crucible containing metal. All other works cease in
the course of refining and there is silence, a silence of expectancy
(Adjei 1992:49). Laye, (1996:3) also continues that the complete silence
and respect with which the apprentices and others watch the work,
give some idea of its importance. Goldsmithing is here made into a
cult. This limits the expansion and growth of goldsmithing.
Leuzinger (1960:35) writing in The Arts of the Negro Peoples has the
following view about craftsmanship.
When one considers the laborious and complicated

methods, which the Negro artist is obliged to employ, his
achievements seem all the more admirable. Everything is
done patiently by hand with utter dedication, elaborate
craftsmanship and love. He uses his material at his disposal
with consummate skill.
65
Even though the traditional goldsmith who took the trade up from the
older generation has had very little change in terms of technology, the
much younger generation of goldsmiths now has very little belief in
the rites and rituals performed in ancient times. But even with the
latter, their belief stands to shake under outside influence; some of
these influences include Christianity and Islam (Kotoku 2001:42).
The old system of traditional goldsmithing is gradually phasing out.

To the new generation of smiths the entire art of goldsmithing is seen
as an ordinary craft devoid of mysticism, and which only needs greater
skill and ingenuity for its success. They find it difficult to reconcile the
old and new. Perhaps the old tradition will eventually disappear not
because of foreign pressure but rather the disappearance will be the
inevitable result of modern education. The disappearance is in some
way fundamental to societys civilization since foreign elements can
contribute effectively to the smooth running of the smiths workshop
when we come to think of modern equipment. Not withstanding the
above statement, there are some conservatives who would still want to
clinch on to the old ways of doing things. Tourists and foreigners are
also a contributing factor; they would want the traditional methods
preserved and practiced for them to come to see. The National
Commission on Culture also promotes the preservation of traditional
66
methods in the name of preserving culture. In South Africa for

example, Anglogold-Ashanti has employed the services of traditional
goldsmiths from Mali to teach traditional jewellery as a way of
preserving the methods that are today practised mainly in West Africa.
Some of these methods are granulation, glass bead making, filigree,
guilding, cuttlefish bone casing, and lost wax casting etc.
The problem of high cost of raw materials like gold, silver, and copper
according to Apenteng, (1994:11) makes the artisan not to operate in
full capacity. The present researcher agrees with Gerald Apenteng on
the above problem, but still suggests the use of other less expensive
raw materials like wood, bone, glass etc, for making jewellery.
Apenteng (1994:11) also continues to outline the following as the
problems facing the industry.
i.
Jewellery making is not as popular as the other

crafts.
ii.
The craft is associated with ideas of magic and

religion, which forbid women from doing it.
iii.
There is high cost of raw materials like gold, silver,

copper and brass. As such, artisans cannot operate
in their full capacity.
iv.
Techniques, tools, equipment and skills are

changing. This affects the artisans and most of them
cannot compete on both the local and international
market.
67
v.
There is a design problem since most of the

craftsmen are illiterates.
vi.
There is a lack of strong Jewellers Associations to

present their grievances to the Government.
vii.
Conservatism Craftsmen and consumers want to

stick to old ideas and taste only.
viii.
Craftsmen consider the technology as a trade secret

and would not impart it to others.
ix.
There is inadequate publicity - showrooms and

advertisement to motivate members of jewellery
associations and to increase public awareness about
jewellery products.
x.
Banks and Government failure to grant loans to

Association of Jewellers cripple the trade.
The present researcher does not fully agree to some of the problems
sited by Gerald Apenteng. Probable solutions to the above problems
listed by Gerald Apenteng are discussed in subsequent chapters of this
thesis. Other writers have also pointed out similar problems.
Some of the researchers colleague jewellers especially goldsmiths

complain of not having enough money and equipment, but this should
not be a stumbling block for our capabilities to produce. Even though
this is true to some extent, a visit to workshops of goldsmiths by the
present researcher reveals that tradition is one of the many set backs.
Writing on this problem, Hudson (1994:92) did not mince words when
68
she wrote in her unpublished BA thesis that Local goldsmiths prefer to

use their own crude methods rather than using modern methods. Lack
of education on the improvement of techniques is also a set-back. Prof.
Anquandah has also been quoted earlier as supporting the same view.
Truly most goldsmiths in Ghana prefer using old methods of working
because they cannot afford the high cost of better working tools.
However, some of them have progressed tremendously and are using
the newest methods available. Hudson (1994:45) again writes that, the
major hindrances facing gold jewellery producers are financially
related limitations. This may be true to some extent. Whiles heavy
capital is needed to start and establish a goldsmithing workshop and
salesroom, much capital may not be required to set up a bead
producing industry.
The cost of promoting a product is high and is even higher if it is being

promoted internationally. The Ghana Export Promotion Council has to
some extent helped to promote Ghanaian jewellery outside, to the
USA, Canada, Germany and UK. Six Companies including Pearl
Jewellery Limited that is the researchers Company were involved in
this Contact Promotion Programme (CPP) in the USA and Canada,
financed by the Commonwealth Secretariat in 1997. This was from 10th
to 18th March 1997. The interim report, among others shows that
69
Catalogues are becoming the preferred shopping method for many

Americans especially senior citizens who are reluctant to leave home,
and working people with less time. The report by Saican Consultant
Inc. (1997:3) explains that the items that sell best in catalogues are
usually new designs. The objects must be well photographed in small
sizes, and all of them must be of a standard measurement, and must
not break easily. They must also be easy to ship.
Ghanas gold jewellery cannot be said to fall within the above criteria
since it is mainly handcrafted and each piece is slightly different in
appearance and size. Merchandising via the Internet is essentially an
extension of the catalogue business and most major catalogue
companies have Internet sites. Easy entry has, however, opened up the
market to many smaller players (Saican, 1997:3). The report explains
that merchandising on the internet provides an opportunity for
companies from Ghana, for example, to launch a mail-order operation
at relatively low cost. Mr. Adu-Mensah, the then Deputy Director of
the Ghana Export Promotions Council explains that if there is a cost
sharing, each company will be required to pay initially US$1000 and
an annual subscription of US$500 per annum. This amount is far above
the reach of many Ghanaian Jewellery Companies, but the consultant
refers to it as low-cost. During his visit to Ghana in March 2002, the
70
Commonwealth Secretary General held a meeting with the six

sponsored jewellery companies. At the meeting, he promised that the
Commonwealth Secretariat as a follow up to the implementation of the
Saican report on the Contact Promotion Programme would further
sponsor an e-catalogue on Ghanaian Jewellery on the Internet to
facilitate the global sale of Ghanaian jewellery by e-commerce.
Jewellery sale by television is also very catchy in the United States. The
CPP report explains further that TV shopping channels feature lengthy
programmes extolling the virtues of the product and providing lots of
background designed to create identification with potential purchasers
(Saican, 1997:3). The TV shopping market, though less important at
this time than mail order catalogues, have made a stride into the
market place and will continue to grow. This type of channel has
attractive advantages. The exposure is good, especially if the product
offers story material for the show. Sales can be huge, and orders of
20,000-30,000 items are not uncommon. But, the return and payment
policies can be extremely severe. This can put great pressure on the illprepared and financially weak producer (Saican, 1997:4). Ghana for
now is far from the Market requirements of the United States of
America, even though few companies have on their own tried to
penetrate. However, Mr Kwame Kuamuar, the Managing Director of
71
Nouvel Bijou says he tried to get a home page on the Internet after the
Contact Promotion Programme, but had to discontinue because of the
cost involved. Pearl Jewellery is connected to the Internet, with an email facility, but does not have its own website. The high cost of
getting a home page has also prevented the company from doing so.
Goldsmiths and other jewellers have insufficient knowledge about the
export market. They are not abreast with the requirements of the
international market. For example, the standards and technical
demands and regulations like assaying and hallmarking are not
adhered to. This affects quality control maintenance of expected
standards.
In 1993, a commonwealth consultant on jewellery Dr. Theija

Heittiarachi, in a paper, Ghana tries to boost jewellery production for
export, said among other things that,
Ghana can within the next five years earn 500 million
dollars annually through the exportation of its quantitative
indigenous handicraft jewellery if adequate attention is
given to the effective funding and development of the
product. Furthermore, the handcrafted jewellery industry
can easily become the leading foreign exchange earner for
Ghana (Theija, 1993:4).
72
The required funding has not come from government, and it is over
ten years now since Dr Theija wrote that report. Even if the
government had given all the necessary financial support, the 500
million dollars he projects Ghana to earn from jewellery export is too
high an ambitious figure.
Zigah (1986:7) also in her unpublished BA thesis says, by exporting her

jewellery, Ghana can earn enough foreign exchange to purchase the
things it cannot produce and also import machinery to improve her
industries and the country in general. For Ghana to excel in Jewellery
exports there is the need for more people to be trained in jewellery. As
Theija, (1993:25) points out that, the most important part of Ghanaian
jewellery is the quality design, and finish obtained by using hands and
tools rather than machines. This points to the fact that even though,
Ghana cannot compete with the developed countries in terms of
machine made fine jewellery, Ghana has the unique advantage of
handcrafted jewellery; and the former General Manager of Precious
Minerals Marketing Company (PMMC). Adubofour (1992:2) said at the
opening of a jewellery exhibition that the PMMC has established a
modern workshop to train jewellers and to help upgrade the
performance of those already in the trade. But the PMMC has not kept
its promise and faith. Instead of its promise to train goldsmiths to
73
upgrade their skills, it has rather used its workshop to go into direct
competition to produce and sell jewellery. Unfortunately, the PMMC
now imports jewellery from Israel to sell, instead of exporting such
items to earn foreign exchange for Ghana. The upgrading and training
of the youth in goldsmithing are not motivating enough. The older
generation of craftsmen is passing away but they usually bequeath
their knowledge and skill only to their offspring. Therefore the secret
of the trade mostly stays within the family. Since many men decline to
enter the trade, and since many of the goldsmiths are not willing to
pass on the secrets to outsiders, the art is gradually dying. At the
moment very few dedicated and honest goldsmiths exist and it is only
a small percentage of the number that produces designs of excellence.
In order to get more people to be interested in goldsmithing, the

business has to be more viable. The viability of the industry is
discussed extensively in chapter seven, and consumers have to be
educated to appreciate handcrafted jewellery, be able to differentiate
handcrafted from machine made work, and be able to differentiate
carat gold from electroplated work.
Hughes (1966:11) in his book Modern Jewellery writes that it is probable

that the best jewels are those that are commissioned from a designer,
74
rather than bought ready made from a salesman. This is the good and
encouraging news to Ghanaian jewellers including goldsmiths that
even in Europe, there is the demand for handcrafted designed
jewellery. The researcher is still echoing that the Ghanaian handcrafted
jewellery industry should be given a boost by government. From the
above discussions, even though it is realised that the Ghanaian
jewellery industry has a high potential for export, the government has
not played enough supportive role. In its Public Investment
Programme 1988-90 Volume 2, Number one, prepared by the Ministry
of Finance and Economic Planning on the development and expansion
of non-traditional manufactured products, mention is not made of
jewellery. Jewellery was not recognised in 1990 as a non-traditional
export earner when a report under the heading, Development and
Expansion of non-traditional Manufactured Products was produced.
The report stated as follows:
The programme is designed to boost up non-traditional

exports through the provision of financial and technical
support to selected export oriented companies ...to enable
them raise the quality of their products/produce to
international standards. ...The companies will be assisted
through credit facilities in foreign exchange to produce raw
material inputs, machinery, equipment and technical
know-how.
75
The Ministry of Finance and Economic Planning designed the above

programme. About thirteen years after the above report, today, the
Ministry of Trade, Industry and Presidents Special Initiative is
reported on page 20 of the 21st July 2003 edition of the Peoples Daily
Graphic as having selected the handicraft sector under the Rural
Enterprise Development Programme for special development. Under
the programme, the district assemblies are to select three commercially
viable flagship projects, which will generate businesses and enterprises
in rural communities over a three-year period (Gobah, 2003:28). The
sector Minister, Alan Kyerematen, who was inaugurating the Advisory
Board on Handicraft in Accra, said the decision to single out the
handicraft sector for immediate development was the result of the
sectors performance in terms of revenue generation over years.
(Gobah, 2003:28) The handicraft sector has received a lot of
governmental support over the years. If the same attention and
support were given to the jewellery sector, it would also have
generated enough revenue. Even though the government has not
neglected the jewellery industry completely, it still has to give more
financial support to the sector.
76
The Board is under the chairmanship of Miss Hajia Alima Mahama,

Deputy Minister of Trade and Industry in charge of Small and
Medium Enterprises. Other members are Mr. K. Adu-Mensah, Mr. R.K.
Adjasoo, Mr. Ladi Nylander, Mr. Robert Ellis and Mr. Selasie Tetevi.
The rest are Mrs. Bridget Kyeremanten-Darko, Mr. K.O. Asante, Mr.
S.Y. Bortsi, Nana Asantewaa Boateng and a representative each of the
Kpando and Aburi Carvers Co-operatives. The composition of the
board now is mainly all handicraft affairs. It would be a laudable idea
if at least a jeweller were also nominated to the board to air out the
views of jewellers. Mr. Alan Kyerematen continues to say that,
although the sector faces difficulties, such as inadequate raw material
supply, difficulties in accessing credit, poor design and quality and late
delivery, among others, its performance has increased over the years
and has reached $11.0 million.
He said the ministry, under the new Industrial Reform and

Accelerated Growth Programme is to develop an export-oriented
industrialisation, focused primarily on agro-processing and other
manufacturing activities as well as involving mass mobilisation of
rural communities and other vulnerable groups. The minister said one
component of the strategy is the implementation of the Presidents
Special Initiatives on cassava starch, salt, palm oil, garments and
77
textiles. He said the second strategy is to pursue a comprehensive

import substitution industrialisation programme targeted at producing
locally 70 per cent of all non-petroleum government imports as well as
50 per cent of all processed foods imported by individuals and
companies.
78
CHAPTER THREE
PRODUCTION PROCESSES:
THEIR PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
3.0 Introduction
In every manufacturing set-up, the process cannot be complete
without the mention of the production processes. In every production
process therefore, there is the use of tools, machines, equipment,
labour and raw materials. The place to carry out the production
activity is also important. Some of the equipment used in production
can be described as ancient or modern. In todays terms, they can
respectively be described as outmoded or hi-tech. Even though most of
these modern production tools, equipment, and processes are not used
in Ghana, some of which may not even be necessary, there is the need
to still mention them, including their uses.
Technological development in Ghana has been at a slow pace and this

has hampered the growth of most industries including the jewellery
industry. In discussing the problems, attempt are made to offer useful
solutions. Even, in the course of collecting data for the preparation of
this thesis, many jewellers were advised about the way of improving
79
their production processes. The pieces of advice given have been

indicated in various parts of this thesis.
3.1 Problems and solutions to land acquisition and development in

Ghana
It is important to write on the problems and solutions of land
acquisition in this chapter, before tackling the production processes
because, land plays a very important role in the establishment of a
jewellery factory. Without land, a factory cannot be set up. And it is
well known that the problems of land acquisition in Ghana have been
a major hindrance in attracting foreign investors into the country.
Setting up a factory or workshop, especially for jewellery, requires

among other things the place to work. The place, called land in
economic terms is one of the factors of production. The place could be
a rented, leased or direct purchased premise or piece of land. The
process of acquiring the place, whether it is rented, leased or
purchased has numerous problems. In my interview with Mr. J.E.K.
Dadson, a senior Lands officer at the Lands Department in Accra, he
said that, there were nearly 36,000 land litigation cases pending before
the courts all over the country since 1994. On how to reduce such
problems, Mr. Dadson called for a revision of laws and regulations
80
including those on land use, planning and valuation for efficient land
administration. I agree with Mr Dadsons view but add that there has
to be public education on the sale and resale of lands by Chiefs, and
also prospective buyers must first check information on the land they
intend to buy at the Lands Registry before doing so. This will prevent
the need to go to court in the first place since the problem when
prevented is better than trying to resolve it at the law courts. There are
presently some processes of review going on but whether the laws can
be easily reviewed or not, is another issue. This is because the
processes of law review take several months if not years. Stake holders
have to be consulted, the public will also have to send memoranda,
and the Attorney Generals Department would have to draft the new
bills, which have to be passed by parliament. It has to receive
presidential accent to become law, and then finally published in the
gazette to become operational. The Supervising High Court Judge for
the Volta Region, Mr. Justice Paul Gyaesayor, has called for the
simplification of laws governing land administration in the country in
order to forestall problems associated with the prevailing system. He
says, the government should establish a system under which all the
processing of all land documents could be facilitated under one
umbrella in order to end the present fragmented system which was
very cumbersome and expensive (Graphic, 2003:16). The Supervising
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High Court Judge made the call at the opening of a two-day

consultative forum at Ho by officials of the Land sector agencies in the
Volta Region. He continued to say that the Judiciary is inundated with
grievances pertaining to land ownership, some of which have been in
contention for more than thirty four years. At the same forum, the then
Deputy Minister of Lands and Forestry, Madam Theresa Naa Ameley
Tagoe, said, it would take fifteen years under a new land
administration programme to evolve coherent and consistent policies
and laws to rid the land market of indiscipline (Graphic, 2003:16). The
learned Judge and the Deputy Minister have made very good points,
but have not offered any practical solutions to the problem. The
various institutions working under one umbrella, will not totally solve
the problem since even though part of the problem is administrative, it
has more to do with educating the chiefs, as pointed out earlier to stop
double sale of land.
When renting a premise, a Rent Control Officer in Kumasi, Mr Samuel

Adjei, who quoted the rent control law, Rent Act, 220 of 1963, said that
the law specifies among other things that rent should not be paid in
advance of more than three months, and within one month after
renting the premise, the landlord must issue the tenant with a rent
card, which must be replaced every four months, but in Ghana, when
82
one is renting a premise, if it is for commercial purposes, the landlord

will collect or demand first, goodwill, and then rent advance for so
many years.. The goodwill is money that is paid to the landlord, just
because the place is to be used for commercial purposes. This amount
ranges from about twenty five million cedis in the suburbs of Kumasi
to about one hundred and two hundred and fifty million cedis in the
city centre as at August 2006. The amount paid as goodwill is also
influenced by the nature of business that one wants to use the premise
for. Opanin Kwaku Kra, a landlord at Aboabo Number One, a suburb
of Kumasi confesses that he does not understand what purpose the
goodwill serves but that was what he came to meet. He also says that
since it is very expensive to put up a house, and that the demand for
such commercial premises are high, there is the need to charge
goodwill. The problem therefore is that, in certain cases, the client has
to pay this money just at the beginning of the construction stage.
Money that could be used for some other business or invested to yield
profit is paid to the landlord and locked up for sometime, over three to
four years. Receipts are in most times not issued since the practice is
illegal. A shop owner at Ayeduase, near KNUST, claims that he has
paid one hundred and fifty million cedis as goodwill for three rooms
he intends to use to expand his business. For over two years, the
buildings of the rooms were not completed; and according to him, he
83
has really been drained of working capital because he took the money
as a loan from the bank and anticipated that the building would have
been completed within the promised ten months. He is now paying
interest to the bank for locked up cash.
In Accounting terms, according to Mr. N. Y. Yentumi of John Allotey &

Co, an accounting and auditing firm in Kumasi, goodwill money is
factored in the rent advance paid to the landlord. It is therefore spread
over a period. But in reality, the landlords do not refund goodwill
money. However, normally, tenants fail to take their landlords to court
for redress. It is therefore a liability and not an asset.
A jewellery company paid goodwill money for a new showroom in

Adum, Kumasi in March 1999, when the building had then been
started. The rooms of the ground floor of the building were all rented
out before their completion in February 2002. New tenants who came
in after completion, had shops and office spaces only on the first and
second floors, after paying three times what the earlier tenants had
paid as goodwill, plus two years rent advance quoted in dollars. This
therefore means that if at the time of payment, the dollar rate goes up
the cedis equivalent also goes up. This guarantees a stable income for
the landlord, whiles the tenant has an indirect rent increase. Quoting of
84
rent in foreign currency is illegal, but no one seems to be able to

enforce the law due to scarcity of rooms. It must be noted that, one
interesting aspect of the acceptance of the goodwill by the landlord is
that if he believes that the tenant may be impatient to wait for the
construction to be completed, he will not accept the goodwill, and in
such a case, the tenant has the disadvantage of paying more after
construction. Most commercial buildings in cities therefore get rented
out before construction is completed, otherwise one may not get a
good and strategic location. The whole system of goodwill is
somehow corruption.
When the place is an outright purchase, it means that the purchaser

becomes the owner of the land or property. In the Ashanti Region,
lands are leased for ninety-nine years if it is for residential purpose. It
is leased for between twenty to fifty years if it is for commercial
purposes. In an interview with Nana Tufuor of the Asantehenes land
Secretariat at Manhyia in Kumasi, he stated that, when one wants to
sell a building on a leased plot, one has to seek the consent of the
landowner, the Asantehene. In such a case, the new owner is entitled to
only the remaining years left for the expiry of the lease. Even if one
wants to mortgage the building for say, a bank loan, according to Nana
Tufuor, the Asantehenes consent must still be sought. All land in the
85
Ashanti Region and most lands in the Greater Accra Region are sold
on leasehold. Mrs. B Bobobee, the Ashanti Regional Administrator of
Stool Lands in an interview said the other regions mostly sell out their
lands on outright purchase, and this is called freehold. This means that
once the agreed price for the land is paid and the necessary
documentations completed, the land becomes the bona fide property
of the new owner. In such a case, if the new owner decides to sell it, he
does not need to consult anybody for his consent.
On deciding on a location for establishing a jewellery factory therefore,

there is the need to make or take certain economic decisions. Some of
these are accessibility to raw materials, nearness to the market and
utilities like water, electricity, and in certain cases, telephone. The
economic considerations however vary according to the type of
jewellery that is being produced. The copper jewellery producers at
Sewua, a suburb of Kumasi in the Ashanti Region, work under trees
and are therefore at the mercy of the weather. They may have to stop
production when it rains. This will account for low productivity
because they have to stop working when it is raining. No wonder,
most jewellery producers, during the rainy season turn to farming to
supplement their income. Since they farm alongside the production of
jewellery, there is inconsistent and low jewellery production output.
86
Madam Monica Asomadu from Darbaa who manufactures beads, says

that her family has cultivated cash crops like citrus and palm trees
alongside vegetables. The income, especially, from the cash crops is
used as additional working capital in her beads business since she has
not been able to access loans from the banks in this country. This
researcher has, after interviewing Madam Monica, seen the wisdom in
the cultivation of cash crops to supplement her working capital. This
issue will however be discussed extensively again in Chapter Six
which deals with suggestions and recommendations.
As it has already been indicated, acquiring land in Ghana for the

manufacturing of jewellery or for other purposes, one has to go
through very cumbersome procedures. Even acquiring a building
permit is more frustrating. Most people therefore do not have building
permits before putting up their buildings. Pearl Jewellery in Kumasi
applied for a permit to put up a building at Ejisu since 1999 for the
production of jewellery. Even though all the necessary fees including
the inspection fees totalling two hundred and fifty thousand cedis
were paid to the District Assembly in that year, by September 2003,
when I started writing this PhD thesis, the building permit had not
been issued to me. By 2003, the fees for acquiring a building permit in
the Ejisu-Juabeng District Assembly in the Ashanti Region, had been
87
increased to C1, 050,000.00. The reason for the increase, according to an

assemblyman in the District, Hon. Patrick Abiriwo is that a proposed
inland port to be constructed in the District by the Ghana Shippers
Council and the Ghana Ports and Harbours Authority, will attract a lot
of investors to make business very lucrative in the district. Increases in
price are truly linked up with increase in bids for land. The new fees
are all above the reach of most artisans and craftsmen including
goldsmiths and other jewellers. Most developers in the District now
therefore continue developing their lands without permit. All that the
assemblys task force does is to write a notice on the building Stop
Work by order, or Stop work, Produce permit, without enforcing the
order.
Regarding acquisition and development of lands, if the land is to be

acquired from a chief, irrespective of whether the land is acquired on
lease or if it is an outright purchase, one has to book an appointment to
see the Chief. According to Nana Kwesi Yeboah II, Chief of New
Ampabame, near Ejisu, if anyone comes to him with the intention to
buy land, he informs his elders and the Chairman of the land
allocation committee, which includes himself the Chief, some elders,
the unit committee member for the area and the head of the chiefs
family. The prospective buyer is then asked to go and come back to
88
check on the appointment day. When he makes his second call, he is

then given a day to come to meet the committee. The date is normally
fixed on a Sunday since most people are available at home on Sundays.
On the appointed day, the prospective buyer goes to the committee
with a bottle of schnapps to present to the chief and his elders as
tradition and custom demand.
The prospective land buyer then
informs the committee of his mission. The chief and is elders, through
his spokesman will welcome him and then inform him of the price of
the land. If he is interested then he pays some money for some people
to go to demarcate and show him the piece of land and its location. If
he likes the place, then he either pays for it or fixes another date that he
will come back to make payment for it. If he pays for the land, an
allocation note indicating the plot location and number is issued to
him.
If the land is to be acquired from a chief, whether on leasehold or

outright purchase, there is the need to first, book an appointment with
the chief or family head. According to Nana Sarfo Ababio II, the Chief
of Kotei, near KNUST, if anyone books an appointment with him to
buy land, he sometimes intentionally does not honour the
appointment. He disappoints the person for about once or twice, just
to let the person know that it is not easy to buy or get land. He also
89
does not deal with middlemen but with the prospective buyer.
According to Nana Sarfo Ababio II, the appearance, of a prospective
buyer, his educational background, social status and the purpose for
which he is acquiring the land, influence the price he (Nana Sarfo)
quotes for the land. There are, however, certain areas where land is
sold through family members, but in this case too, the family members
inflate the price. There are normally no receipts issued; all the money
paid is said to be drink money. It is only an allocation note as shown
in plate 3.1, and a site plan as indicated in map 3.1 that are issued
stating the plot number and site. If the amount is not fully paid, the
allocation paper is not issued. The problem, therefore, is that should
any mishap occur, there might not be any evidence of ownership or
claim from anybody. After the allocation paper is issued, it is taken to
the Lands Commission for a search to be conducted to find out
whether the land has already been allocated or registered.
90
Plate 3.1. An Allocation note signed by Nana Kwaku Safo II and his elders
91
Map 3.1 A sample of site plan belonging to the researcher
92
An enquiry at the Kumasi Metropolitan Assembly and the Regional

Town and Country Planning Department in Kumasi revealed that
government reserve lands can be acquired at very minimal annual
rentals. According to Mr. Paul Osei Bobie, the District Town and
Country Planning officer for Mampong in the Ashanti Region, about
30 metres near most major roads and about 15 metres along most
streets in the cities are government-reserved areas. It came to light
during the collection of data that some smart businessmen had
acquired these lands, put up shops, and then renting them out at
exorbitant prices.
The Ghana Railways Authority was also mentioned as having vast

land, which it rents or leases out for about twenty-one years. The
procedure for acquiring land from the Railways Authorities is simple.
An application is made to the Managing Director in Takoradi through
the Regional Engineer in Kumasi who will attach a site plan of the area
one is interested in. Within one month, approval will come and a
building permit is sought from the K.M.A. and the Town and Country
Planning Department, and construction begins. It is interesting to note
that all these processes, however, do not proceed fast if tips are not
given to boost the officials to process the documents. Even if the
93
permits are refused, the applicants still go ahead with their

development.
As regards the leasing of the railway lands, as another source of

acquiring land to put up structures including stores for all sorts of
businesses, including jewellery so as to boost the trades and increase
sales, this researcher in an interview with the acting Chief Director of
the Ministry of Harbours and Railways, Alhaji M.N.D. Jawula, said
that, the Ministry and the Ghana Railways Authority (GRC), has
stopped leasing out its land to developers since it has been abused and
other people took advantage of it to encroach on other parts of the land
that had not been leased. He therefore said that the GRC has even been
issuing out quit notices to squatters, and had issued a final warning to
all such squatters and traders along the countrys rail lines to quit or be
forcibly removed. He said that thousands of such squatters have
encroached on rail lines and the land along the lines in Accra, Kumasi,
Takoradi and Tarkwa turning them into trading posts and perching
grounds. The problem caused by the Ghana Railways Corporation is
that the people are likely not to be squatters as it is being alleged, but
are tenants who claim to have dealt genuinely in acquiring their lands
from the Ghana Railways. According to the Chief Director, the
squatters were initially given up to the end of April 2005 to quit but
94
said the ministry had decided on humanitarian grounds to extend the

deadline to the end of June 2005. He reiterated the fact that the GRC
had been lenient on the squatters because most of them acquired the
land illegally through some unscrupulous staff of the GRC. The acting
Chief Director said the GRC Law made it unlawful for the erection of
any structure within 15 metres on either side off rail tracks but
indicated that the GRC had decided to demolish only structures within
15 metres of the tracks during the first phase of the exercise. Alhaji
Jawula further alleged that prostitutes, drug peddlers, thieves and
some traders have been occupying some structures built illegally on
some of the lands owned by the Railway Authority.
On the fifth of October 2006, the Ghana Railways Company Limited

again directed all occupants of railway lands within a distance of 15
meters on both sides of rail tracks in the country to vacate those lands
on or before October 25, 2006. It warned that all structures must be
removed from the lands before the October 25 deadline. The statement
issued by the railway company said Any occupant on the specified
railway lands who fails to comply with this directive shall be forcefully
ejected and prosecuted after the deadline 2 It said any occupant with a
valid building permit from a metropolitan, municipal or district
2
Daily Graphic of 5th October, 2006 page 16
95
assembly should submit the original document of the permit to the city
engineer for vetting. It said the vetted copy must then be submitted to
the Railways Area Manager before the October 25, 2006 deadline. The
statement further reminded all the occupants of railway lands that the
exercise was the first phase to eject all occupants within a distance of
30 metres on both sides of the rail tracks.
A visit by this resaercher to the rail lines around Kejetia through the
Central market to Akwatia Line in Kumasi showed that some
encroachers even lived very close to the tracks. Items such as washed
clothes, sleeping mats and other personal belongings were openly
displayed on the tracks. While hawkers sell in the middle of the rail
lines, only to run away at the sound of an approaching train,
pedestrians who have been deprived the use of the walkways use the
tracks, a situation which sometimes caused the life of pedestrians.
Living close to the rails pose a great danger and monies that the
government could use to provide amenities and to use to improve
health needs are used to cater for such squatters when they fall sick or
are knocked down by a train. Plate 3.2 reveals a seen in Accra of
squatters living close to a railway line.
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Plate 3.2 Squatters along a railway line in Accra (Source :Graphic Corp.)
The problem as mentioned earlier which has been caused by the

inconsistency on the part of the GRC is that, whiles leasers of railway
lands claim their documents are genuine, since they have violated the
law that prohibit the erection of structures within 30 metres, there is
now the likelihood of losing their properties through demolition.
Structures likely to be affected include Jewellery shops like Crucibles
Jewellery and Letap Jewellery Ltd., among others, all in Accra.
According to the GRC regional engineer in charge of Ashanti Region,
the agreements normally state that the structures to be put up should
97
be of temporary nature, but some people are able to get building

permits to put up permanent four-storey buildings or more. At the
offices of the Town and Country Planning, they also claim that the
permits are normally issued for temporary structures but when the
landowners go to build, they put up structures that are entirely
different from what have been approved. They are unable to do
anything because they are not the enforcement agencies.
At Darbaa in the Nkawie District of the Ashanti Region, according to

the Secretary of the Bead producers, Mr Michael Opoku Asomadu, the
land on which they produce their beads is a family land and they did
not have to go through any cumbersome processes to settle and work
on it. They even live there with their family. This is also the same with
the gold weight brass casters at Kokobin Krofufrom, also in the
Ashanti Region. They also work on family lands and do not have any
formal acquisition documents. One foresees a problem in this type of
land acquisition, in that when any other family member may require a
piece of land for any other use apart from jewellery, it may lead to
litigation. At the other practising centres visited by this writer
however, no problem of such nature has occurred yet. Also, because
most of the jewellers produce from their homes, their attitude towards
production is not businesslike. The Ghana Export Promotion Council
98
has put up production sheds in both villages, ie Darbaa and

Krofufurom on lands given to the Council by the Chiefs of the villages.
According to the Ashanti Regional Export Promotion Council Officer,
Miss Gertrude Ansah, as far as she is aware, no formal acquisition or
title deed to the land was made since the sheds in the villages were put
up for jewellers of the two communities by the Council to boost their
business. Still concerning the citing of land for the production of
jewellery, Mr Kwami Adinkra, an ivory carver at Adum informed the
researcher that when the Ivory carvers at Adum, arrived mainly from
Hav and Vakpo in the Volta Region of Ghana, the Adumhene, gave
them the land on which they are practising their craft. The carvers
chose Adum because according to Mr Adinkras late grandfather,
Adum was then the centre of the goldsmithing trade. Prof. Edward S
Ayensu confirms this in his book, Ashanti Gold that goldsmiths
traditionally congregated together in the part of the town called Adum
where they were under a measure of royal control and supervision.
(Ayensu, 1997:167) Their working place presently is under the K.M.A.,
and since they do not have any title to it, they are almost always
threatened with ejection. They however pay ground rent to the K.M.A.
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3.2 Problems of location of jewellery workplaces

In Ghana, there are so many factors that affect the location of
businesses including jewellery making. One of such factors, that are a
hindrance to the development of the industry, is that some of the
jewellery workshops and stores are located at some places that are not
industrially and commercially suitable. One may have located ones
business at a particular place because the land or storeroom is an
inherited property freely obtained. This may adversely affect the
promotion of the industry because the shop is located at a place that is
not good for the products to sell fast. The cost of production may also
be very high and the items may therefore be expensive.
Traditional practices, as pointed out earlier, is another factor that

influences the location of jewellery industries especially goldsmithing.
According to Kotoku (2001:67)
Goldsmith shops are also located in the corners of houses
where goldsmiths work with their children as apprentices.
Some of these children do not have the privilege to have
formal education. It is common sight today to see
goldsmiths cluster in a shop. In Kumasi, goldsmith shops
are scattered all over the city with about two to about five
masters and their apprentices working under one roof.
...This, of course, is a hindrance to progress (Kotoku,
unpublished MA thesis 2001: 67).
100
This has been the practice since time immemorial, when goldsmiths
have been located within the corners of the courts of chiefs, who
commission them to produce their jewellery. Traditional practices
therefore have hindered the growth and progress of the jewellery
industry. Professor Edward S. Ayensu, corroborated my point by
writing that, traditionally, goldsmiths worked in or near their own
homes, which were usually a group of rectangular rooms arranged on
three or four sides around a small courtyard (Ayensu, 1997:168). He
continues to write that in some cases, they worked within the
courtyard, perhaps sheltering from the fierce tropical sun in the shade
of a tree or under a flimsy open-sided shelter made with a leaf thatch
(Ayensu, 1997:168). There are no planned industrial estates in the
country. The only attempt to build an industrial estate is by SSNIT at
Weija, near Accra, where the College of jewellery is located. Even with
this, the diverse nature of the industries targeted to be located there
has not made it very effective.
There is no proper lay out of the workshops, the smiths
come out with their work tables to work during the day and
pack them back after close of work. This practice, consumes
a lot of strength and man-hours, which could have been
used to increase production. Most of the owners of
goldsmith shops in Koforidua, Cape Coast, Kumasi and
even Accra still continue to remove their working tables
and tools at the end of the days work (Kotoku, 2001:69).
101
It must be noted that these problems associated with workshop layout

do not apply only to gold jewellery, but also to other forms of jewellery
making like bead making and brass casting. A solution to this problem
that slows down production is that, the jewellers should form cooperatives and work under one workshop as said earlier. The
differences here, however, are that, instead of clustering in one small
room, they could rent a big hall that they could use as a workshop and
share the cost of the rent.
The modern jewellery workshops in Ghana, in most cases

are located either behind or adjacent to the showroom. For
security or some other reasons, the workshops are enclosed.
This means that there is one door leading to the workshop
from the showroom (Kotoku, Unpublished MA Thesis,
2001:69).
As for the bead making workshops, they are mainly thatched roofed
buildings located on the compound of a family dwelling, or the
outskirts of a town. (See plates 3.3 and 3.4). One of the problems of the
workshops for making gold jewellery in the city centres is that they
were not initially built for producing jewellery. They were rather built
and rented, and used as shops, and that there is hardly a room for
expansion. For this reason there is often a limit to the profit to be
102
reaped by jewellers. Also, since the industry is practised mainly in the

city centre, there it is not easy to get access to undeveloped land.
Undeveloped lands within the commercial areas are under the Local
Metropolitan Authorities and are rented out for the erection of
temporary wooden structures like kiosks for say hairdressers or
barbers. Buildings constructed with cement blocks or permanent
structures will not be allowed. The premises for the workshops are
therefore mainly rented at high costs including many years advance
payment. In the developed world unlike Ghana, where closed
workshops exist probably because of their weather, or climate, their
gold jewellery workshops have very well fumes and waste disposal
systems that even within their air-conditioned workshops, one cannot
see a drop of dust.
Like gold jewellery producers, the bead manufacturers and copper

jewellery producers also work in the open spaces in the villages. There
is no security, and health regulations are also not adhered to. The
workplace is sandy and not a cemented floor. This writers suggestions
to the security and health problems are that jewellers especially those
who work in open spaces if they are many in a village, can contribute
money and rent a room, where at the close of the day, they can pack
their wares. On the other hand, they can also arrange with other shop
103
owners so that at the close of work they could keep their items in their
shops. The shop owners may however charge them some money for
keeping their items for them. It could be on a monthly, weekly or daily
basis.
Plate 3.3 Opened bead workshop at Koforidua (Source: Picture by researcher)
104
Plate 3.4 A Woman jeweller producing beads in an open workshop in

Koforidua (Source: Picture byresearcher)
3.3 Problems of acquisition of tools and equipment
There are problems associated with the acquisition of tools for the
production of jewellery. Though basic hand tools can be used to
produce certain types of jewellery in Ghana, it does not mean that the
production of jewellery does not require sophisticated tools or
equipment, as in plate 3.5, but this is because the production methods
employed in Ghana by the jewellers are mainly handcrafted and
labour intensive. This makes the production process in Ghana very
slow. On the contrary, machines used for making jewellery in the
developed countries, even though have become more compact,
sophisticated and expensive, they are too expensive for most Ghanaian
105
traditional jewellers to buy. The modern equipment has made

production faster and cheaper. For example, Precious Minerals
Marketing Company (PMMC), Nana Yao Boakye Jewellery and
Casting Ltd., Kumasi and Letap Jewellery Limited, are companies that
have sophisticated casting machines, which they cannot use to full
capacity. Valachi Jewellery, New Jesse Jewellery and Hagest Jewellery,
all in Accra have bought portable centrifugal casting machines. Today,
there are well-developed, modern and compact casting equipment like
the vacuum casting equipment. There are also the rotating polishing
machines and tumblers that are automatically operated. With the
tumbler for example, once it is set on the speed of rotation and the time
of finish, and switched on, it operates by itself until the time set has
elapsed. There are also new machines to be used from the designing
stage to the finishing stage. All these are to help in producing jewellery
faster and at a less expensive cost. Most jewellers, that is, goldsmiths,
bead producers and casters, do not seem to know the modern trends.
Even if they know, acquiring the machines may be above their means.
The College of Jewellery and ATAG in Accra have very modern state
of the art vacuum casting machine bought for them by USAID. Since
these machines were donated to the Institutions by USAID, It is
suggested that they put it at the disposal of other jewellers. This is
106
because on their own they would not have been able to buy the casting
machines since it would have been overcapitalising.
Unlike in 1998, when basic equipment for the industry was scarce, now
there are a lot of dealers selling the tools. The increase in the number of
people dealing in the tools business might have occurred and become
more lucrative probably due to the increase in the number of trainees
in the formal training sectors of the trade. For instance, the Metals
section of the College of Art and Social Sciences, KNUST, and the
College of Jewellery, Weija, near Accra, have been training graduates
and diplomates in jewellery making. Another probable reason for the
increase in the dealers on the jewellery tools and accessories might also
be that, most of the jewellery trainees are anxious to start their own
enterprises after finishing their training. They invest a lot in acquiring
the basic tools while in training. They acquire these tools because it is a
prerequisite for jewellery trainees to buy their own tools during
training. They therefore have no choice but to acquire them. The
problem, however, with the tools sold in Ghana is that since the
dealers sell them for much profit, they import cheap and shoddy tools
for which they can make a lot of profit. Since the students or jewellers
do not also have enough money to afford to import good quality and
expensive tools, they are forced to buy and sell inferior ones. This
107
tends to make the jewellery products look unattractive. It is my

suggestion that the training institutions should import these tools
themselves, or contact local manufacturers and importers, who will
import them on their behalf at a discount or negotiated price. The
institutions will then sell them to the students. This will solve the
problem of buying inferior tools since the training institutions will
import the tools based on the specifications of the schools.
A local research unit like the Technology Consultancy Centre (TCC) of

KNUST is capable of producing basic hand pliers for the Jewellery and
other industries. The Technology Consultancy Centre presently
produces ceramic trays for the bead producers. The few bead
producers, who are aware of this, claim they do not buy from the
centre because the trays are expensive. The TCC has also not
conducted any survey to find out why the products are not being
bought. Jewellery producers using materials like bamboo, glass, wood
and leather for making beads, use a lot of improvised tools like knives,
chisels and hammers.
Mr. Korlettey, a blacksmith at the Metals section of the College of Art,

KNUST, produces some of the local pliers, which he sells to students of
the section. His pliers do not grip as efficiently as the imported ones
108
and they are also equally expensive, except that foreign exchange is
saved because they are got locally.
Mr. Dan Amrago, a research fellow of the Technology Consultancy

Centre, KNUST says the tools manufactured by the blacksmiths for the
jewellery industry can be improved upon a request to his outfit.
Research will be conducted to get the temperature for hardening the
steel so as to get precision tools made not only for the jewellery
industry, but also for other related industries like carpentry or
masonry. If the Technology Consultancy Centre is able to break
through in the manufacturing of basic tools for the jewellery industry,
the improvised ones fashioned by blacksmiths may no longer be used.
Orders will also not have to be placed for any more efficient tools from
the foreign market. This is because one of the problems and dangers in
importing is that there is the likelihood that the suppliers will not send
specified equipment. Mr. Kwame Kuamuar, the Principal of the
College of Jewellery in Accra confirms that, through a grant from the
USAID, the College ordered certain tools for use by the students of the
college. When the tools arrived, according to Kwame, some were
substituted with a note stating that because they did not have what
was requested, they had substituted for what was closest. Since the
tools had already arrived in the country, it would have been more
109
expensive to reject them. The substituted tools are now locked up since
they are not what they wanted, and they cannot serve their purpose.
The probable reason for the substitution was that the money was
transferred with the order, and the suppliers did not want to make a
refund.
110
Plate 3.5 Set of Modern Casting Tools made in Germany
111
Another problem of tool acquisition is that, apart from insufficient

foreign currency facing the country as a whole, the individual jeweller
does not have enough money to place an order for tools made in
foreign countries. Banks and leasing companies shy away from
investing in equipment, especially for the jewellery industry. This is
because unlike equipment, that have universal use, such as computers,
tools for the jewellery industry is limited to only the jewellery industry
and if a company defaults in payment, it will be difficult to dispose of
the tools to pay off the debt. During the fieldwork for the researchers
previous thesis, it came to light that banks are not keen to lend to small
businesses because of their high failure rate. Banks may lend more if
the owner has a reasonable investment in the business. Another reason
for the banks refusal or reluctance to lend, according to Mr. Fred Adu,
Manager of Standard Chartered Bank, Kejetia Branch in Kumasi is
that, small businesses have insufficient collateral security and a poor
record of earnings. Mr. Fred Adu also points out that the failure rate of
small businesses under which jewellery falls is very high. He puts it
around 60 percent, and even though their main problem is insufficient
capital, the banks may be of little help.
112
Most goldsmiths or jewellers desirous to produce jewellery in this

country therefore use outmoded and second-hand equipment, which
are not favourable for mass production, and which do not augur well
for good finishing techniques. Equipment and tools in the Metals
section of the College of Art, KNUST, for instance, date back to the
1960s and are therefore not very efficient to meet modern demand in
terms of mass production and lustre. The Metals section can seek
assistance from non-governmental organisations for the supply of
modern equipment. Mr. Johnny Halm, the former head of the Metals
section of the College of Art and Social Sciences sent out letters
soliciting for financial support for the section. If the letters soliciting for
financial support for the section had succeeded, then the students
being trained would have become more efficient and their output
would have increased because they would have been trained with
modern tools that would have made them more efficient, and the
industry would have seen a resulting growth. Students who travel
abroad for holidays should also use part of their earnings to buy tools
and sell some of them to their colleagues at moderate prices (Kotoku
2001:82).
Another probable solution to the acquisition of equipment is that

jewellers including goldsmiths should form a Co-operative Union
113
where members would contribute money to order the tools in bulk and
sell them to the members. This view has almost always been discussed
at meetings of members of the Federation of Ghanaian Jewellers, and
other jewellery groups and associations at their least opportunity. This
writer, a member of the Federation of Ghanaian Jewellers attends such
meetings and lauds the move of the association in trying to source
funding to buy tools in bulk for its members. Since the tools are to be
bought in bulk, there could be discount in quantity purchase and also
freight charges.
3.4 Manufacturing processes: their problems and solutions.

Melting of materials is an integral and important aspect of the
jewellery making craft, especially the aspects of the craft that involve
the use of metals as in the case of gold, and silver-smithing, brass
casting, and glass bead making.
On the use of new technologies, Aid to Artisans Ghana, (ATAG) has in

the month of June 2005, promoted four new technologies that have
emerged in Ghanaian bead production at its showroom at the Ghana
Trade Fair Centre, La, in Accra. This was when this writer went to the
ATAG Media laboratory to make enquiries on a course in Matrix
Jewellery Designing. On display were some of the finest beads
114
produced with new technologies. The new beads are made of recycled
plastics and soapstone rock. These are real breakthroughs in the
jewellery industry.
The developers of the new technologies include Mr. Lovi, a Ghanaian

ceramist who is making a new type of beads by recycling the powder
waste from soapstone carvings. His beads come in all shapes including
bowls, balls, cubes etc. Another world-class bead designer and
industrialist, Mr. Henry Cedi Djaba, whom this writer had earlier on
visited and interviewed in his Krobo Odumase workshop, has
imported into this country modern equipment for glass bead making.
He has made considerable investments in time and money by visiting
abroad to learn this new technology. Even though this technology is
expensive, it is very efficient and versatile and can be made to achieve
the ultimate in bead making comparable anywhere in the world today.
115
Plate 3.6 Cedi Djaba producing beads using a modern gas torch. (Source:
Picture by researcher)
Mr. Henry Djaba is seen in plate 3.6 producing beads using one of his
modern gas torches. Another person who took part in the ATAG
promotion, is one Mr Michael Agbetsi, a soapstone bead maker who is
involving a number of youth in his town, Asamankese, and its
neighbourhood, in the Eastern Region of Ghana, in a labour intensive
industrial type of soapstone bead production by the meticulous,
tedious and skilful carving of soapstone rock using various types of
knives and hand-held tools. His good sense in industrial production
has enabled him to create jobs and training for several unemployed
youth in his town.
116
Another new type of bead which will be of great interest to bead

jewellery lovers is the likeable but cheap recycled jewellery of an
indigenous technologist, Mrs. Amina Iddrisu of Moshie Zongo, in
Kumasi. Madam Amina Iddrisu uses the crude but ingenious
technology of melting junk plastics like obsolete videotape, audiotape
parts and disposed plastic cosmetic containers in a frying pan over a
charcoal fire. She then rolls the melted plastic on a stiff, dried elephant
grass, shaping a line of beads on the stick. In addition to enjoying good
local patronage, her products are exported to Mali and Niger.
It is good that the Ghana Bead Society has taken the initiative to
showcase these new technologies so that jewellers may use them to
create fashionable, desirable, durable and indeed, marketable
jewellery.
With regards to the bead producers at Darbaa and Asamang in the

Ashanti Region, they pound glass in a mortar to fine powder. At
Odumasi-Krobo and Somanya in the Eastern Region, the raw material,
glass is pound on stone into fine powder. The glass powder is then
sieved. After that depending on what colour one wants, it is added and
mixed with the fine sieved powdered glass. This powder is then used
in filling a clay or ceramic disk with cylindrical holes. The clay plate is
117
then put in a locally produced kiln or oven. The locally produced oven
uses charcoal and sometimes firewood. According to Mr. Michael
Opoku Asimedu, the two gas ovens or kilns provided them by the
Ghana Export Promotion Council, has not been helpful, thus their
preference for the local oven. The problem with one of the kilns is that
it is not cost effective, and does not also heat to the required melting
temperature. Two burners with filled gas were used in one firing in
one of the kilns but it did not get to the required temperature to enable
the powdered glass to melt. This therefore meant that they might need
at least four burners heating at the same time. With the second kiln,
with one gas burner, it also overheats and gets all the powder molten
and burns out the colours. The attention of the Ghana Export
Promotion Council has been drawn to the problem on both kilns but it
has not been rectified yet. The craftsmen think that with their years of
experience, the mechanics should have consulted them for their inputs
before going ahead to produce the kilns for them. They believe that the
kilns, which are a sheer waste of money, may be able to fire ceramic
earthen wares rather than glass.
Plates 3.7 to 3.11 depict various
stages of the bead making process.
118
Plate 3.7 Bottles used as raw materials in producing Beads. (Source: Cedi
Beads, Picture by researcher)
119
Plate 3.8 Cedi Djaba pounding glass bottles in a metal mortar (Source:
Picture by researcher)
120
Plate 3.9 Woman shaping beads using two metal pins. (Source: Picture by
researcher)
121
Plate 3.10 Hearth for firing powdered glass into beads.

122
Plate 3.11 Bead maker using metal pins to shape Bodom beads.
123
In the case of gold and silver jewellery production, after the materials
are weighed, they are put in a crucible and then put on fire in a hearth
or furnace, as in plate 3.12. It is covered and allowed to melt because
sometimes during melting the molten metal spills over into the fire.
Plate 3.12 A goldsmith at Ash-Town, Kumasi melting using traditional

methods. (Source: writers collection).
Since most goldsmiths are illiterate, they buy their gold always on the
assumption that it is 22 karats. The sellers of the raw materials, gold,
may cheat the illiterate goldsmiths. Goldsmiths also have a fixed or
pre-set method of alloying gold, using a lot of assumptions. They may
be fortunate to get the required karat but in most cases, it falls below
the standard one. It might not be the intention of a goldsmith to cheat
124
but since he worked on assumption, if a customer decided to test the

finished work, he or she might feel cheated.
Another problem associated with the testing, alloying and melting is

that, the acid when kept for a long time say, about two years could
become weak and give wrong results when it is used in determining
the purity of gold. The electronic method is also defective sometimes
because if the metal is gold coated, it is likely to react to the coating
rather than the base metal. In this case, the metal has to be filed to
actually test the base metal rather than the coating. Other methods of
testing of precious metal are discussed in the later part of this chapter,
under the sub heading, Hallmarking and Assaying of Precious
Metals.
The problem faced by goldsmiths and jewellers in the melting, alloying

and testing of their materials is that most goldsmiths melt them by
using the hearth, and test the quality of the gold by using only nitric
acid. Mr. Kwame Adu, a goldsmith in Kumasi (Ash-Town) who has
been in the trade for over two decades believes that he has sufficient
experience in determining the karat of the gold just by rubbing it on a
touch stone and applying the acid. The rate at which the acid dissolves
the gold helps him to determine the karat (Kotoku 2001:87). A lot of
125
other goldsmiths in Kumasi and Koforidua also agree to Mr. Adus

method of testing the karat of gold. It will be an advantage to the
industry if an assaying unit is established in Accra at the premises of
the Precious Mineral Marketing Corporation. Also, in Kumasi, the
metal section of the College of Art, Kwame Nkrumah University of
Science and Technology should sell alloyed gold to goldsmiths and
also carry out simple tests on jewellery. Assaying laboratories should
be established at PMMC and other places including the Ghana
Standards Board. Other investors could set up refineries and assaying
laboratories. The public must also be made aware of the existence of
such assaying laboratories if they are established so that they can also
send their works or jewellery for testing or assaying.
3.5 Hallmarking and assaying of precious metal.

At this juncture, this writer would like to discuss assaying of jewellery.
In discussing hallmarking and assaying of jewellery, reference would
be made extensively to what happens in other parts of the world, since
hallmarking is supposed to be of an international standard and global.
There are a number of methods for measuring the gold content or

fineness of carat gold jewellery. A hallmark therefore is a mark or
number of marks, made on gold, silver or platinum jewellery or plate
126
to confirm that its quality is up to the correct legal standard.

Measuring the gold content is what is known as assaying. It must be
noted that there are various methods of measurement, and the one that
one might use depends mainly on the accuracy of measurement and
the ease of measurement. The cost of the equipment or instrument will
also influence ones decision on which of the assaying instruments to
buy. Some of the methods of hallmarking and assaying are mentioned
below.
i.
Fire Assay (Cupellation method) - This involves taking a

small scraping from the jewellery and weighing it
accurately, and then wrapping it in lead foil with some
added silver. It is then cupellated in a furnace at about
1100oC to remove all base metals. The resulting gold-silver
alloy piece is then placed in nitric acid to dissolve out the
silver (this is known as parting), and then re-weighing the
resulting pure gold. This method is considered as one of the
most accurate methods, with an accuracy of 0.02%, and is the
standard reference technique used by most national assay
laboratories worldwide for Hallmarking. A simplification of
this technique involves omitting the initial cupellation stage
and just melting the sample with silver and copper, and
127
rolling it to a thin sheet and then dissolving out the silver

and base metals with nitric acid. This is satisfactory only
when there are no other impurities present, but will be less
accurate. The equipment for this test costs about US$ 50,000.
ii.
Inductively Coupled Plasma Spectrometry This involves

taking a small sample of about 20 milligrams, dissolving it in
acid and subjecting a sample to analysis in an ICP
(Inductively Coupled Plasma) Spectrometer. This technique
has an accuracy of 1 part per thousand but requires the use
of comparative standard reference alloy samples of known
composition. This technique is accepted for hallmarking
purposes and has the advantage in that it also measures the
other alloying constituents. The equipment costs US$150,000.
iii.
X-ray fluorescence (XRF) It is a non-destructive technique

that is suitable for normal assaying requirement, such as in
house quality control in manufacturing or for certifying gold
content in retail outlets. It has an accuracy of 2.5 parts per
thousand under good condition, where this means the
surface of the jewellery being measured is relatively flat and
sufficiently large. On carved surfaces, the gold x-rays
128
generated and measured are scattered and accuracy is

reduced significantly. It is a quick technique that takes about
three minutes to assay, and the computer can automatically
print out the results. It also measures the content of the other
alloying metals present. However, it only measures the gold
content of a thin surface layer, so accuracy is compromised
where the jewellery object has had a chemical surface
treatment or has been electroplated with a layer of pure
gold. There are several instruments on the markets abroad
developed specifically for gold jewellery assaying, such as
the X-tester, and these are reasonably priced. Certain
jewellery retailers in India, according to Mr Ashok Patel of
Letap Jewellery in Accra have equipped their stores with
such instruments. In India therefore, Mr. Ashok Patel
continues to say, the gold content of each piece of jewellery
is measured as it is sold, printing of a Certificate and thereby
guaranteeing the carat and providing the customer
confidence. This is done because there is no national
Hallmarking regulation in India. I suggest that just as in
India, Ghana precious jewellery producers should also adopt
this method so that their customers will have more
confidence in their products, and Ghanaian jewellery will
129
also be accepted globally. Presently, because it is not

hallmarked, it is only taken as a craftwork. It will also give
more value to the jewellery. It is estimated to cost US$25,000.
iv.
Touchstone testing The touchstone testing is an ancient

method for measuring gold content whereby a rubbing of
the jewellery is made on a special touchstone alongside
rubbings of known reference samples and treated with acids.
The colour of the reacted area is compared to that of the
reference sample. This method is not sufficiently accurate
(about 15 parts, per thousand at best) and is only useful as a
sorting test to differentiate carats. Unfortunately, this is the
type of test that most jewellers use in Ghana because it costs
as low as $100.
v.
Electronic Gold tester-The electronic gold tester is a cheap,

although portable technique used in testing gold content.
Accuracy is poor, being correct to 1-2 carats (4-8%) and is
compromised if the surface of the metal is gold plated. It is
also like the touchstone useful only for sorting. A few
jewellery shops in Ghana, like Hagest Jewellery and New
Jesse Jewellery, all in Accra, use this type of tester to test
130
their gold jewellery. According to Mr Aheto Tsegah the

owner of Hagest Jewellery, as pointed out earlier, it is poor
in accuracy. He therefore combines the electronic test with
the touch stone test. The cost of the equipment is US$200.
vi.
Density test-The density of carat gold reduces as carat is

lowered and this gives rise to density measurement as a
possible
method
Archimedes
of
measuring
principle.
However,
gold
the
content,
other
using
alloying
constituents also influence the density, and so the accuracy

of the density measurement is questionable. Even though
this is not a good method of testing gold, small-scale gold
buyers in Ghana use it because it costs about US$500.
In summary therefore, for high accuracy, consistent with marking and

hallmarking regulations, only fire assay and ICP Spectrometry are
highly recommended, because of their high rate of accuracy, as stated
above. These techniques involve the taking of physical sample by
scrapping it from the jewellery item.
For good accuracy, X-ray Fluorescence (XRF) analysis is suitable. The
accuracy depends on the shape of the item; it is best on flat surfaces.
This technique is suitable for quality control in production and for
131
certifying the carat in a retail shop. It is a quick technique, as said

earlier, and it takes three to four minutes, and does not require any
technical expertise to operate. The results are automatically displayed
and could be printed out on the computer. For sorting jewellery into
different carats, the touchstone and electronic gold pens are suitable.
Most people refer to the hallmark on their jewellery, but this term is
often loosely used. It is important to differentiate between Mark and
Hallmark. They have different levels of guarantee of the carat. Only an
independent third party, specifically an Assay Office, applies a
Hallmark. It is also important to note that in many countries, law fixes
the carat of jewellery that is allowed for sale on the market. For
example, one can sell 9, 14, 18, and 22 carat gold jewellery in the U.K.
In most countries marking of gold jewellery showing the carat or

fineness is required by law. This is done by physically stamping of the
jewellery with a punch, even though these days some jewellers
engrave them. It must however be noted that the carat mark on a
jewellery does not guarantee that it is a gold product. The
manufacturer without any independent check usually does the
marking on jewellery. Thus your carat conformity is not guaranteed.
The customer only has to rely on the integrity of the jeweller.
132
Unfortunately under-carat jewellery is common in certain countries

including Ghana. In Ghana however, the result of the lack of certified
fine gold, makes jewellers have to make do with gold of doubtful
quality when preparing the gold alloy. Many may consciously or
unconsciously be over-carating or under-carating their gold jewellery
since they have to prepare their various gold alloys using gold of
questionable quality. The economic implication of over-carating and
under-carating to both the jeweller and the consumer is obvious. I
agree with Mr Kofi Asomaning of KNUST that in the first situation,
consumers get more gold than they pay for whereas in the latter,
consumers are short-changed. (Asomaning, 2003:6) While some
crooked jewellers may knowingly and intentionally produce low carat
jewellery and pass them off as higher carat items others may
unknowingly be offering substandard jewellery by virtue of the fact
that the quality of their initial fine gold input is suspect. In other
countries however, there is a legal requirement for all jewellery to be
tested or assayed by an independent third party. If it is found to be
within tolerance, then the assay office marks the jewellery with a
number of marks including the carat or fineness, the makers mark and
the assay office mark. This is what is known as the Hallmark. Usually,
the Assay office guarantees its mark by law, so the consumer has legal
redress against the assay Office, if an item is subsequently found to be
133
of substandard assay. This is full guarantee of carat conformity. Below

is a sample of a Hallmark.
Plate 3.13 Hallmarking indicating legally accepted marks. (Source: Ayensu,

1997:179)
It has a number of marks to confirm that its quality is up to the correct
legal standard. This has been the practice in most European countries
for centuries. Many countries therefore have developed their own
regulations on precious metals control depending on local traditions
and industrial developments that determine the fineness, sampling,
testing marking and technical requirements. The fineness of the metal
as said earlier ranges from 8-23 carats. Some countries require
compulsory control and hallmarking of every article by an
independent body, some have a voluntary hallmarking system like
India while others only require prescribed marking by the
manufacturer.
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Official hallmarking is also found in certain countries formerly

administered by the British and French in the colonial days. However,
most have voluntary systems. On the European Union Directive on
Hallmarking of jewellery, no compromise has yet been reached for the
introduction of a directive for the harmonisation of standards and
quality control. There are diversity of standards legally accepted
within the EU today.
Hallmarking Statistics
i.
UK has four assay offices, and all gold products sold on the
home market must be hallmarked at one of the four assay
offices in London, Birmingham, Sheffield and Edinburgh.
Articles weighing less than 1 gram are exempted. Articles
assayed range from 9 to 24 carat.
ii.
In France, all gold products sold on the home market must

be hallmarked in one of the 24 assay offices located
throughout the country. Only articles weighing less than 0.5
g were exempted until 31st July 2000. On that date, the
exemption limit was raised to 1.0 g to avoid the potential
damage of articles. Subsequently the limit was raised to 3.0 g
in January 2002. Virtually all jewellery on the French market
135
is 18 carat, as volumes of 9 and 14 carat, now admitted as

gold alloys, are negligible.
iii.
In Switzerland, only the marking of gold watchcases is

obligatory, whether for sale on domestic or export markets.
This is carried out by the Bureau Central du Contrle des
Mtaux Precieux. Cases must bear a Legal Standard of
Fineness mark and a Responsibility mark.
In India, as in Ghana, there is an emphasis on high carat gold jewellery

purchase. Buying patterns in India reveal consumers propensity
towards discounts and reductions in the making charges. To continue
business and maintain a sound client retention rate, producers are
often forced to reduce the production cost by compromising on the
quality of gold to cover costs and margins. As a result, the Indian
consumer market is weighed down with irregular metal quality,
adulterated jewellery, low carat soldering etc.
Identifying the need for protecting consumer rights and heavy

demand for standardization of gold therefore, the Bureau of Indian
Standards introduced the Hallmarking Scheme for Gold jewellery in
India. The agency undertakes certification of purity of gold jewellery
136
in accordance with Indian Standards IS: 1417 Grades of Gold and Gold
Alloys. Hallmarking is perhaps one of the key ingredients
instrumental to Indias positioning as a leading gold market centre in
the world, commensurate with its status as the top-most consumer of
gold jewellery.
As stated earlier, currently, gold hallmarking in India is voluntary. Of

an estimated three thousand producers, just 600 are covered under the
scheme. The market for gold in India is extensive, with the rural areas
comprising a substantial percentage. The committee is looking at
awareness programmes so that demand for hallmarked jewellery can
be generated and facilities for providing the hallmark expanded.
Several players associated with the industry are taking initiatives to
promote hallmarking of precious metal.
Against the many players in the Indian jewellery market there are just
eleven centres offering hallmarking services in the country. MMTC,
Asias largest bullion trader has been one of the prime movers of
hallmarking scheme in India. It had set up Indias first Bureau of India
Standards (BIS) approved Assaying and Hallmarking centre, equipped
with one of the most sophisticated testing laboratory. Jewellery
certified with hallmark conforms to ISO 1417 requirements for purity.
137
Hallmark on gold jewellery comprises four symbols including Bureau

of India Standards (BIS) standard mark, assaying and hallmarking
centre's mark, year of marking and the identification mark of the
Bureau of India Standards (BIS) certified jeweller. It is only when all
the four symbols are there on the ornament that the buyer could be
sure of genuine hallmarking.
Festival of Gold 2004, by MMTC Limited, a Government of India

Enterprise and Indias largest Bullion trader, is one of Indias largest
jewellery exhibition shows in one such initiative directed at promoting
hallmarked jewellery. MMTC has promoted the concept of hallmarked
jewellery in India way back in 1994 and is keen to encourage
international standard and norms in the jewellery segment for the
benefit of its consumers. It is also the first agency asked by Bureau of
India Standards (BIS) to set up 15 more hallmarking centres in India.
The first ones are already functioning and the aim is to have a worldclass infrastructure to test and assay the purity of the gold jewellery.
Apart from offering better consumer protection against irregular

product quality, hallmarking will further add impetus to the export
competitiveness of Indian traders. In Ghana, the Government of Ghana
through the Ministry of Trade and Industry is setting up an Assay
138
office at the Ghana Standards Board to regulate the quality of jewellery

manufactured and imported into this country. This is in line with the
Governments policy of adding value to precious metals mined in this
country.
To be able to do this, according to Mrs Charlotte Ohene-Manu, Deputy

Executive Director of the Ghana Standards Board, in a statement
issued in the Daily Graphic of Thursday, 30th June, 2005, said unique
identification marks would be allocated to each manufacturer and
importer. In addition to the unique identification mark, each jewel will
also carry The Assay Office Mark as well as the Fineness Mark of the
precious metal. (Daily Graphic No 149468 30th June, 2005)
The statement explained that the action would also minimise the
proliferation of sub-standard jewellery found on the Ghanaian market
and to ensure that dealers in such jewellery could be easily traced. In
pursuance of this action, the statement said, the Ghana Standards
Board was registering all manufacturers and importers of jewellery in
the country in an exercise that was began on 4th July and ended on 18th
July, 2005. The statement said the registration forms could be picked
from all the regional centres of the Ghana Standards Board, and its
head office in Accra.
139
From our lengthy discussions above on Hallmarking and Assaying, the

idea by the Ministry of Trade and Industry is laudable but this writer
foresees numerous problems with the proposal. In my opinion, it is
like putting the cart before the horse. This is because there are already,
numerous problems that need to be solved before thinking of
hallmarking or stamping. To mention a few here again, are that, there
are not enough jewellery training institutions in the country. The
technological know how and scientific knowledge of the industry is
almost non-existent. The assaying office is supposed to assay the jewel
from batches but the working capital of goldsmiths and jewellers is so
small that they hardly work in batches. Instead, they work per piece
and they are handcrafted. Another major problem as stated earlier is
that the gold used by most goldsmiths are not refined gold; and
goldsmiths do not have the machinery for testing the quality of the
gold they buy and alloying in the workshops is done on guess work,
on the assumption that the gold they buy is either 22 or 23 carat. The
system of testing by most jewellers is by the touchstone or electronic
test, which as said earlier are the most inaccurate in the industry. The
cost of an efficient modern machine is far above the cost of most
jewellers. In fact it is more than the working capital of most jewellers.
The Precious Minerals Marketing Company uses the density test to
140
determine the carat of their gold, which as said earlier is not very
accurate. There is also no legislation as at now, as far as this writer is
aware of as to whether the assaying or marking should be voluntary or
compulsory.
Most importantly, there is the need to set up a Jewellers Council as in

South Africa. In South Africa, the Jewellery council has established a
quality assurance system that requires that jewellery are manufactured
to the required acceptable quality standard in all respects, including
products, delivering services and offering customer service of the
highest quality. It also ensures that all jewellery produced is of a carat
equal to or greater than that stamped on the item. There is also random
assaying. The Jewellery Council of South Africa actively promotes the
retail jewellery industry in South Africa with their retailers being
encouraged only to purchase fine jewellery from manufacturers who
are entitled to utilise the Jewellers Council Quality Assurance System
(JCQAS) mark.
In Ghana the Ghana Standards Board intends to issue out the mark to
both importers and Ghanaian producers, but this writer recommends
that, as in South Africa where members are facing increasing
competition with importers and smugglers, the mark among other
141
things is to be seen as an innovative idea which will promote Ghanaian

manufactured jewellery as against the imported ones. It is also an
important step to providing bona-fide Ghanaian manufacturing
jewellers with a competitive edge against inferior imported products
and a means to combat the increasing instances of under carat
jewellery that is being supplied to the market.
3.6 Melting of metals: Its problems and solutions.

Most smiths including jewellers melt their metal before forming them
into jewellery or before casting. When melting on the hearth however,
it is not easy to determine the temperatures of the molten alloy. This
may cause overheating or over melting and result in a heavy loss of
weight since some of the molten metal evaporates and thus loss of
money, especially if it is a precious metal like gold or silver. In my
previous theses, I wrote that goldsmiths, in their attempts to reduce
such losses during melting, cover the top of the crucible with a block of
charcoal. A solution to the problem, however, is to get an electric or
gas operated furnace that has a temperature gauge that is able to show
the melting point of gold at 1949F (1065C). When this point is
reached, the furnace will begin to sound an alarm. If the furnace has an
indicator warning light, then the light will go out intermittently and
blink. If a correct furnace such as that described here is used, there
142
may never be a loss of much quantity of alloyed gold. The researcher

of this thesis therefore still, emphasises the need to set up the assaying
and alloying laboratory where the alloying of gold will be done for sale
to the goldsmiths. Provision of such a facility is out of the reach of
most goldsmiths, and also requires foreign currency, which is difficult
for many of the jewellers to obtain.
The manufacturing of jewellery in Ghana whether goldsmithing, bead

making or lost wax casting is still very traditional, manual and
handcrafted. The process is time consuming, and is engulfed with a lot
of waste. As written earlier, there is the need for the goldsmiths and
importers to bring in modern machines to produce the jewellery.
The goldsmithing process for example, is that, the raw materials,

mainly gold, silver and copper are proportioned according to the
quality of ornament, and melted together in a crucible on a hearth. The
molten metal alloy is cast into either a wire or plate form, using the
necessary ingot moulds. It is then shaped or trimmed to the required
size using the milling machine. The resulting wire or plate is then
shaped into the required ring, necklace or bracelet, etc. and polished in
the polishing machine.
143
During each production process, problems are encountered. Whiles the

metal is being melted in the crucible; the melting temperature of the
gold alloy is not taken into consideration. Even if it is, it is the melting
point of the gold that is used and not that of the alloy. Alloys have
lower melting temperatures than base metals. This therefore means
that whiles some goldsmiths may know that gold will melt at 1065oc
they are not likely to know the melting point of the alloy. The result is
that the alloy is over melted and results in the loss of some of the
material. This over melting can be prevented if the metal section of the
College of Art in conjunction with the Federation of Ghanaian
Jewellers can hold a series of seminars for goldsmiths. The Federation
can also print out a brochure that will include information like melting
of gold and other metals, and precautions that are to be taken.
The crucible used by about 90% of the goldsmiths in Ghana is made

locally in clay, and is very porous and therefore absorbs some of the
molten metal. Thus, the alloy results in some loss of weight. The
crucible sometimes even breaks or explodes during melting and results
in heavy losses since all the metal pours into the fire and is very
difficult to retrieve. Manufacturers of the crucibles are playing a very
important economic and import-substitution role and need to be
encouraged. The National Board for Small Scale Industries can arrange
144
a technical consultant to teach them to produce better crucibles using

the right clay, firing them to the desired temperatures and thus getting
them to the standard of the imported ones. Even though after using
many of these crucibles, they are crushed and the gold is not fully
retrieved from them and the cost of refining is high. Goldsmiths
should be educated to use the graphite crucible because it is very hard
and can be used over and over again. The graphite crucible is available
in the P.M.M.C. accessories shop in Accra. P.M.M.C. should also take
the initiative to promote the sale of their accessories.
The Rolling Mill is one of the important equipment used in the

jewellery industry. It is not made locally, and has to be imported. It is
also very expensive. One of the cheapest Rolling Mills from Zak
Jewellery Tools, Inc. in New York, in U.S.A. is "$672 (c 6,504,000) and
weighs 34 kg". This price is Free On Board, that is, it excludes taxes,
freight and insurance costs. The price is far above the purchasing
power of most jewellers. They therefore rely on very old ones
imported into the country in the 1960s by UAC. Some of the machines
are corroded and worn out. A research at the ITTU and the Faculty of
Engineering, KNUST reveals that these mills can be reconditioned and
the faces of the rollers polished. The Faculty of Mechanical
Engineering confirmed that it had done a similar reconditioning of the
145
Rolling Mill in the Metals Section of the College of Art, KNUST, in the
1980s. Only few goldsmiths own milling machines and others
therefore have to shuttle between their workshops and those who own
the mills. There is therefore a waste of time and labour. A solution to
this problem of goldsmiths wasting time by shuttling between
workshops to mill their metals is that, the masters should plan their
milling work ahead in such a way that it might be done in bulk. This
will reduce the frequency of the shuttling, and thus save production
time (Kotoku 2001:92. Also, apprentices must be used on such errands
since, the labour cost of sending a master will be higher than an
apprentice, Again, after the execution of a job, I will suggest that the
scrape should not be melted immediately, as is normally done, for lack
of raw-material, but be kept for use on another related job.
146
Plate 3.14.a. Basic workshop tools for making jewellery. (Source:

Gentille,1976)
Plate 3.14.b. Basic workshop tools for making jewellery. (Source:

Gentille,1976)
147
Plate 3.14.c. Basic workshop tools for making jewellery.(Source:

Gentille,1976)
The fabrication or making of the jewellery is done with the aid of hand
tools, as illustrated in plates 3.14a to 3.17. The type of tool depends on
the techniques to be employed. The actual fabrication starts with
milling the metal in sheet or wire, depending on the nature of
148
jewellery to be made. If it is a sheet work the design is traced on the

sheet metal using the tracer or scriber. It is then sawn out or pierced.
In sawing or piercing, a saw blade is inserted into the saw frame by

loosening the wing screws at each end of the saw frame. The saw blade
is then inserted into each end of the frame and screwed. The blade
should be inserted with the teeth pointing outward from the frame and
downward. If the direction of the teeth of the blade is difficult to
determine, you run your finger lightly over the surface of the blade.
This must however be done with care so as not to cause injury to
oneself since the tip of the blade is very sharp.
After the above, the sawing begins with a few upward strokes of the
blade, but the actual cutting is done on the down stroke. When sawing,
the frame is held vertically. This helps to control the sawing and
minimise blade breakage. The saw blades are imported and very
expensive. Even though the correct method of sawing is by holding the
frame vertically, most smiths and apprentices do not hold it rightly
and this causes a lot of the blades to break.
149
Plate 3.15 Saw frame showing direction of saw blade during insertion.
(Source: Gentille, 1976)
Plate 3.16 Saw frame with saw blade showing angle for piercing. (Source:
Gentille, 1976)
150
Plate 3.17 Pierced sheet metal with saw blade inserted. (Source: Gentille,
1976)
The saw blades are supplied by the Master goldsmiths or jewellers and
are therefore not a loss to the apprentices; but it makes production cost
higher. Master craftsmen should adequately educate and also
supervise their apprentices whiles they are working so as to reduce
waste.
After the metal is sawn, it is filed to define the forms. Files come in
various sizes and cutting grades. In general, when one has a good deal
151
of filing to do one begins with a coarse file and then uses finer grades
to finish up the surface. To get a good and even filing, small jewellery
pieces must be held in a vice, or in a ring clamp. Some goldsmiths do
not go by this, and they hold the work in their hands during filing. By
not using the clamp, the piece of work is not help firmly and thus the
work does not have a good finish. Also, a file, which cuts well, saves a
lot of time. It is therefore important to see to it that all the teeth are
cutting well. Files are also never to be thrown on each other in a
drawer. The writer and researcher did not see a single goldsmithing
shop during the research putting the above file maintenance procedure
into practice. If it is followed, it could lead to good finish and increase
in production. Now that the metal is sawn and filed to shape, it now
has to be soldered. After the soldering, the work is sandpapered with
emery paper and finally polished using the polishing motor.
3.7 Bead making process

Below is a summary of the bead making process as is practised at Cedi
Beads at Krobo-Odumase, in the Eastern Region. There are two main
types of beads that are made at Krobo-Odumase. These are the opaque
beads and the translucent beads. The method for making each is
similar but there are differences. The first raw material for making the
beads is glass. Sometimes this is purchased, but more often, old bottles
152
are used. The most popular are Ponds cold cream jars and Philips
Milk of Magnesia bottles, as in plate 3.7. The interaction of the glass
with the dyes is a prime consideration. The used and old bottles are
washed and crushed into a fine powder, as in plate 3.7. Usually a
mortar and pestle are used, but sometimes a small stone is used while
the glass is in a bag resting on a large rock. The powdered glass is then
sifted using a wire mesh and a ceramic dye is added to it and stirred
nicely. Clay moulds are then prepared, and the inside of the clay
moulds are coated with kaolin. The purpose of the kaolin is to harden
them and extend their lifespan. Moulds of various shapes are used.
Some of the moulds will hold only one large bead, whiles others can
hold a few. A cassava stalk is then inserted in the middle of the mould.
Next the powder is poured very carefully into the mould using a
funnel made from a can. When the glass powder inside the mould is
fired, the stalk will burn leaving a hole in the molten glass, which
comes out as the bead. During the design phase, which requires great
skill and experience, the different powdered colours are skilfully used
to make the patterns on the beads. This is what is termed as the
design. A large quantity of beads could have designs through the
whole bead, and not just along the surface.
153
Translucent beads are made by a similar method. But the glass does
not need to be pounded into a powder. Small particles of glass are
inserted directly into the moulds. It is then fired just as in the case of
the opaque beads. Recycling older beads that are chipped makes some
of the most priced beads. This is because they are assumed to be the
original antique beads. In fact, after recycling it is very difficult for
even an experienced bead dealer or collector to differentiate from the
trade and antique beads. After designing, i.e. arranging the various
colours in a skilful manner, the moulds are fired in a mud kiln. The
powdered beads are then fired for 20 to 45 minutes at 600 to 850oc.
The translucent beads are fired at 800-1000oc for 40 to 60 minutes.
Because of this very high temperature, translucent beads cannot use a
stalk, so the hole must be punched by hand. This is how the hole is
done: as soon as the beads are removed from the fire, they are shaped
with the use of two large long pins. The final step is to let the beads
cool for about an hour and then polish them on a stone. Similar beads
are then strung on a strand, and are ready for the market.
3.8 Lost wax casting

In the case of the lost wax gold or bronze casting, the technique is
called lost-wax casting technique. This is based on a wax model of a
final product. The wax model is covered with wet clay, and allowed to
154
dry. When the clay has set, the model, which is made of wax, is
heated. It melts and runs out and molten metal is poured into the clay
mould. When cooled, the clay mould is broken and it leaves out the
cast work. If the work is large, then the mould is usually hollow
inside. Larger works require a core. This is then coated with a layer of
wax. The core is covered with the wax and a layer of clay is laid over
the wax. After the outer clay layer has set, the wax is melted out from
the mould and hot liquid metal is poured onto the mould. The clay in
this case is also broken and the casting removed and cleaned up. The
advantage of this process according to Mr. Agyeman of Kurofufurom,
near Kumasi is that, the wax is easy to manipulate and shape. It can be
moulded or carved, rolled into fine sheets and threads. If mistakes are
made, the wax can simply be re-heated and re-shaped until the
craftsman is satisfied. It is only when everything is done perfectly in
the wax that the other processes begin. When there is a flaw in the
final brass casting the brass can be re-used for casting. The wax comes
from hives of wild bees from the rain forests or the savannah lands in
the north of Ghana, or imported from neighbouring countries like
Burkina Faso and Mali. The first step in getting the wax purified is by
pounding it and then boiling it in water for it to melt. The molten wax
floats to the top of the water and is skimmed off. It is again melted
and filtered through a cloth into water to set.
155
The brass used for the casting, according to Mr Agyeman, is difficult

to come by. Foreign made brass used to be imported into the Gold
Coast in the olden days in the form of brass vessels and ingots.
Ayensu (1997:177) confirms the importation of brass from Europe, and
writes, European traders quickly realised that there was an
exceedingly profitable industry in importing damaged, old-fashioned
and second-hand brass. He continues to write that, even brass items
that were damaged beyond repair were brought into the Gold Coast.
The tools used for the waxing process are very simple and include a
long wooden block with a smooth surface, a flat strip of smooth wood
rather like the blade of a palette knife, another strip of smooth wood
with a point at one or both ends, razor blades and a thin pointed iron
rod. A brass lamp or coal-pot is also used.
The flat wooden block is used for rolling the strips of wax, whiles the
blades are for carving the wax. The pointed spatula is for modelling or
cutting groves or designing details or patterns. The tip of the thin iron
rod when it is heated is used to cut into the wax or to melt one area so
that a small piece of wax would stick to it. The tip of the rod is heated
on the coal-pot or on the lamp. Some of the processes of the lost wax
casting are pictured in plates 3.18 to 3.23.
156
Plate 3.18 Mr Agyeman of Kurofufurom preparing the wax threads.

157
Plate 3.19 Mr. Agyeman preparing the wax model (Source: Picture by
researcher)
158
Plate 3.20 Sieving the grinded charcoal to be used as smooth layer to cover
the wax model (Source: Picture by researcher)
159
Plate 3.21 Mr. Agyeman in the process of covering the wax model with the
smooth layer (Source: Picture by researcher)
160
Plate 3.22 Mixing palm fruit fibre with clay to get the coarse layer
161
Plate 3.23 Covering the final mould with a mixture of clay and fibre
162
3.9 Cuttlefish bone casting

Another form of jewellery making technique is by casting using
cuttlefish bone. The Cuttlefish bone is the internal shell of a form of
fish called sepia officinalis. Seen from above, the cuttlefish bone has an
elongated oval shape. It has a hard and thin crust in the outside,
encompassing the internal softer part, the pulp, which is much thicker,
and this is the part that can hold the impression of the model or it is
the part that can be carved. The pulp is composed of closely packed
thin layers of alternatively dense and spongy soft material.
Cuttlefish bone casting is an ancient, but very accurate method for
one of a kind of casting in precious metals or whatever. Cuttlefish bone
is the backbone from a cuttlefish.
The process begins by cutting a cuttlebone in half and sanding the soft
surface for it to become flat. The pattern is then pressed half way into
one piece of bone. You now press the other half of the bone over the
pattern. While they are aligned, you cut notches into two halves of the
bone. The pattern is then removed, and a sprue is then cut in it. You
then blow out the loose calcium, and using soft wire, realign the two
halves of the pattern. The molten metal is now ready to be poured.
163
After pouring the molten metal you open the bone and have your
finished product. This is then filed and polished. The melting can
either be done using a torch or the metal melted in a crucible on a
hearth and poured. One has to be sure to get the metal very fluid. If the
melting temperature of the pour is correct and the metal is not under
melted, you will get very fine lines on the casting from the cuttlefish
bone.
Plate 3:24 A goldsmith polishing jewellery at Pearl Jewellery Ltd, Asafo.

(Source: researchers collection)
164
3.10 Finishing: Their problems and solutions

The final stage of the jewellery making process is the polishing. The
polishing can either be made by hand or by use of a polishing motor. If
polishing is by hand, the polishing stick or buff is applied with the
polishing compound called rouge. A felt cloth can also be used. It is
then rubbed on the surface of the metal until the polishing is complete.
When polishing with the motor, as in plate 3: 24, the buff is put on the
spindle on the motor and then turned on. The polishing compound is
then applied. If too much of it is applied, it forms cakes on the wheels.
The polishing motor, which is usually electric, can be purchased new
or second hand. A grinding motor can also be bought and tapered bolt
attached to the tip to take the buff. Most of the motors used by
Ghanaian goldsmiths are of the grinding motor type. After the
jewellery is polished with the buff on the motor, it is cleaned in warm
soapy solution of ammonia to remove all the rouge and grease on the
work. It is then dried and cleaned with a polishing cloth. If this
polishing procedure is not followed, the finished products will look
dull and unattractive. It is recommended that people should be trained
to be polishers. Goldsmiths normally rush through the polishing
procedure. Pearl Jewellery used to have a polishing and finishing
section with trained polishers; and apart from the PMMC, no
165
workshop visited by the researcher has a separate polishing set up.

This has been discontinued by Pearl jewellery. The reason being that
since the goldsmiths do not want to incur loss during fabrication,
certain parts of the product that should be semi polished are left
unpolished and makes the final polishing difficult. The semi polishing
process is now an integral part of the fabrication process with the
goldsmiths themselves doing the final polishing after the product has
been inspected and accepted by the supervisor (Kotoku 2001:99).
In the case of glass bead finishing, after the casting, it is removed from
the ceramic or clay plate and then grinded to shape using a grinding
motor. The wastage from my estimation is about 30%, and according to
the manufacturers, since it has been fired, when you add it to the waste
glass during the next pounding, sometimes it affects the colour of the
bead. The people doing the grinding, as I observed do not look
healthy. Upon interviewing them I was told that they do not often fall
sick or seek medical advice. This observation applies also to the
goldsmiths and brass casters. They inhale a lot of fumes and dust.
Even though they might feel that they are healthy, their condition
could slow down production. The writer took advantage of the
occasion to educate them to use masks or fume inhalers. Most of them
did not however see the necessity for such dust absorbers since they
166
have been in the trade for years without any health problems. In
continuation on the finishing of the bead making process, after they
are ground they are linked with strings of either raffia or cotton in
lengths of between eight inches to twenty inches. The final product is
then greased with cooking oil to make them look glossy.
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CHAPTER FOUR
MARKETING AND SALE OF GHANAIAN JEWELLERY:
THEIR PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
4.0 Introduction
This chapter deals with the problems associated with the marketing and
sale of Ghanaian Jewellery, and in addition, offers suggestions for the
solutions of the problems. The chapter therefore discusses the weaknesses
inherent in the industrys difficulty to penetrate the market and puts
forward some suggestions for solving this kind of problems. Jewellery has
always been seen from the artistic point of view, but it is also necessary to
see it as a business, and therefore market it as such. Jewellery like other art
works tends to be product oriented. This means that the producers keep
producing without close contact with the market. Normally, it is after
production that the product is priced and thus does not always meet the
customers expectation. Other problems that are highlighted in this
chapter include those of poor infrastructure, poor products and poor
display,
inadequate
packaging,
and
problems
associated
advertisement. The problems are discussed alongside the solutions.
168
with
4.1 Infrastructural problems affecting sales: Their solutions

For any business to thrive, and be competitive there is the need to develop
certain factors and basic infrastructure. This is carried out mainly by the
government, individuals, or corporate bodies who see it as a civic
responsibility. It is necessary for the government to play the leading role
because when it creates the enabling environment, for businesses
including jewellery, they will expand by way of increased production and
sales. The businesses will also reciprocate by paying their taxes and levies
which will be used to further develop the infrastructure like good roads,
telephone or communication facilities, and hospitals.
4.2 Unattractive designs and poor product finishing inhibiting large

sales: Their solutions
One of the problems confronting the industry is unattractive design that
inhibits large sales. The jewellery products whose designs are unattractive
include: chains, earrings, bangles, wedding rings etc. In addition, the
designs are limited to a few motifs. The jewellery, whether in 18ct or 14ct
gold, sterling silver or brass, or copper jewellery are mainly based on the
traditional adinkra symbols as in the plate 4.1 and plate 4.2.
169
Plate 4.1 Adinkra symbols and their meaning. (Source: PMMC Catalogue)
170
Plate 4.2 Adinkra symbols used in designing a necklace (Source: From Pearl
Jewellery showroom; picture by researcher)
It will interest readers to note that during the field work for the collection
of data for this thesis, out of 80 customers who responded to the question
as to whether in the purchase of their jewellery, they were influenced by
the design, 78 people representing 97.5% responded Yes whiles 2 people,
representing 2.5% responded that the design of the product does not
influence their purchase. The same 97.5% also said they preferred the local
171
adinkra design in their jewellery than totally foreign. The figure 4.1 shows
a representation of the above response in a graphical form.
Figure 4.1 Response to whether purchase is influenced by design
120
100
80
NUMBERS
60
40
20
0
YES
NO
The bead or costume jewellery has also been produced using the same
symbols and patterns over the years. An experienced dealer can easily see
a bead product and know that it is from Krobo or Asante design since they
have not changed over time. The techniques are also mainly limited to
piercing and cuttlefish bone casting, or lost-wax techniques.
172
Plate 4.3 Glass bottles as raw materials for making beads. (Source: Cedi Beads,
Odumase Krobo, picture by researcher)
Other materials like glass, (refer to plate 4.3) clay and sand are also used
for making beads but as pointed out above, the same designs have been
repeated over the years. In the researchers thesis of 2001, page 114 to 115,
it is wrote that the Gye Nyame symbol, which means Except God, or
Nothing can be done without the help of God, is the most common and
frequent motif used, and it has really been overused. Its popularity might
probably be due to its association and belief in the Supreme Being. Even
though it is not wrong to use this motif, this researcher suggests that the
173
motif should be redesigned in several ways. Plate 4.4 is suggestions of

redesigned samples of gye nyame by the researcher.
Plate 4.4 Suggestions of redesigned gye nyame symbol by the researcher.
Copying of designs of other jewellers is also very common in the industry.

This is because most of the jewellers are not creative to come out with new
designs of their own. Since it takes a lot of time to come out with a new
design, once the market likes it, almost every goldsmith or jeweller tends
to copy or reproduce it, since such designs are not patented.
174
There is in Ghana, the copyrights law that protects the works of artists but
it seems designers and artists including jewellers and goldsmiths hardly
register their new designs with the Registrar Generals Department as
specified under the law. During research for his previous thesis, I wrote of
my colleague jeweller Mr. Atta Dogoe, owner and manager of Lucky Gold
Jewellery at Koforidua, who also complained bitterly about the copying of
the symbols and the designs resulting in the fact that the same designs are
found in the various jewellery shops. A customer buying jewellery,
whether gold, silver, bead or copper, does not really have enough
varieties to choose from. It is therefore enough to visit one or two shops to
make a purchase, where one will see all the range of designs and varieties.
The writer is of the view that as in developed countries, there is the need
to train and employ jewellery designers. Even though the Metals Section
of the College of Art, KNUST, and the College of Jewellery at Weija, near
Accra run courses in design, the course contents are not broad enough to
transform the design needs of the Jewellery Industry. Our jewellers must
learn from what happens in other countries. For example, in the
Gemmological Institute of America, (GIA) in the USA, where this writer
visited in 2001, they run a detailed certificate course in Jewellery Design
including the principles of good jewellery design. They develop the skills
needed to create and illustrate designs for a variety of jewellery in full
175
colour, actual size, and with full detail. The students are taught to design
for beauty, but also for problem-free manufacturing, long wear, and
comfort. At the GIA, they practise drawing techniques that help to convert
ideas into sketches, and later into finished jewellery renderings sometimes
using watercolour paints. Finally, at the GIA, students also learn how to
customize jewellery to reflect the customers individuality. Specific class
topics are as follows:
i.
How drafting tools simplify the job.
ii.
How to shade and add shape and form to metal
iii.
Application of texture to metals
iv.
How to render gold, silver and other metals in full colour using
watercolour paints
v.
How to illustrate rings and other jewellery
vi.
How to design mens and womens jewellery
vii.
How to incorporate a customers personality and needs into a

design
viii.
Presentation of final designs like a professional
ix.
How to create detailed views and layouts for the jewellery

manufacturing
176
Students are taken through step-by-step processes of sketching and

illustrating gems, metals and jewellery through extensive practice and
expert coaching from instructors. At the end of the class, students are
required to display completed and framed projects before invited guests.
To complete the class, there are 26 class projects and a final practical
examination. A 75% average mark is required for projects and final
examinations.
Apart from the GIA there are numerous professional training Institutes in
the developed countries that run similar tailored programmes for the
uplifting of various industries including jewellery ones. It is gratifying to
read from the Ghanaian Times dated 13th September, 2004 that The
University of Cape Coast would from August 2005 offer a four-year
degree programme in jewellery Science. This programme would be run
using computer-aided designs. The Vice-Chancellor of UCC, Rev. Prof.
Emmanuel Addow-Obeng, announced this in a speech read on his behalf
at a symposium organised by the UCC Department of Laboratory
Technology. He continued that, the introduction of the course would
propel a lot of artisans in the precious metal industry to come out with
quality handicraft.
177
Subjects for which Professors, Senior Lecturers are being sought for are,
i. Mineralogy and Gemology
ii. Stone setting, Enamelling, Hand-engraving
iii. Metallurgy, Metal & Jewellery making
iv. Computer Aided Design in Jewellery
v. Jewellery Instrumentation and Laboratory Practice in Jewellery
making
vi. Industrial Chemistry
These were contained in the Ghanaian Times, No 14,354 ISSN 0855-15038
13th Sept, 2004 Page 12. This writer is of the view that even though the
latest technology would be used to train the students, this might rather
worsen an already bad situation. This is because after their training, the
graduates might not get the necessary finances to buy the equipment and
tools they trained with to work on their own. The idea is however
laudable, and care must be taken to help the would-be graduates to obtain
the necessary equipment and tools. The writer is also of the view that the
Cape Coast University should apart from the proposed degree of B.Tech.
(Jewellery), run a Diploma and Certificate programmes in Jewellery so as
to be able to produce the required middle level personnel needed in the
jewellery industry.
178
In the February 2002 Edition of the Gold News Magazine, page 80, Mr
Murat Akman the Turkeys General Manager of the World Gold Council
says: The buyers in America usually place their own design requirement
and ask one to produce similar goods and expert samples. (Akman,
2002:80) This implies that the designing of jewellery must be taken
seriously. In the researchers MA thesis, it was written that Miss Gertrude
Ansah of the Ghana Export Promotion Council said, there was really
nothing wrong with the copying of designs. She said even bigger
companies copy each others works to some extent. She continued to
reveal that handicraft buyers from say Germany, USA, etc, may bring
their own designs to Ghanaian handicraft producers for thousands of a
particular design to be produced. The order is therefore shared among the
craftsmen since it is not possible for one craftsman to produce the
thousands of pieces to meet the deadline. My previous work also
mentioned Mr. Jay Khatau, a curator of African Art and Culture, from
Illinois, USA, who had been coming to Ghana personally to give orders to
more than thirty wood carvers at Aburi (in the Eastern Region of Ghana),
Foase and Ehwiaa, (in Ashanti Region). According to Mr. Jay Khatau, he
used to give them the specifications, travel to some other countries and
come
back
to
collect
the
completed
orders
on
schedule.
My
recommendation in the previous thesis was that, if Ghanaian Jewellers

received large orders from abroad they should not selfishly shield them
179
but share the orders among their colleagues so that the deadline could be
met, and thus make the jewellers reliable. The fulfilment of these
conditions would certainly be necessary for the orders to be sustained. As
Murat Akman would put it, the faster you present your samples, the
higher the possibility of making business (Akman, 2002:80). Replies to the
questionnaire in relation to the present work reveal that customers would
prefer more modern designs with higher fashion appeal. As pointed out
earlier therefore, stakeholders including USAID, Aids to Artisans Ghana
(ATAG) etc should assist goldsmiths and jewellers engage the services of
designers.
In order to cut down cost, few goldsmiths and other jewellers can also
pool resources together to employ designers. The designers must always
be creative so that the designs do not later become monotonous. Jewellery
trainees or apprentices should rather take designing very seriously and
after their training work as a team since each individuals creative ability
differs. As part of their training, the government, through its agency the
Ghana Export Promotion Council, could facilitate the training by
engaging the services of a design consultant who will be going round the
workshops to teach the apprentices the principles of design. In this
respect, the Ghana Export Promotion Council has assisted the Federation
of Ghanaian Jewellers before. In this case, as I wrote in my previous work,
180
it facilitated the engagement of one Mr. Ron Mills, an American Jeweller

to assist the Ghanaian jewellers in product design. Mr. Mills was
sponsored by the USAID, and his assignment lasted for four weeks. He at
that time visited this writers jewellery workshop in Kumasi where he had
a meeting with the staff and discussed issues bordering on designing. He
therefore advised that some of its products be redesigned. He also whiles
in Kumasi discussed jewellery designing with members of the Federation
of Ghanaian Jewellers. This writer also participated in a one-day seminar
organised by the Ghana Export Promotion Council in Accra in which Mr.
Ron Mills was the main facilitator.
It is gratifying to note that designs from Western or Eastern magazines

are now somehow being altered or redesigned by some Ghanaian
jewellers instead of direct copying. Even though there is the copyright
law, it is difficult to enforce it because the art works are hand produced
and there may be slight differences from the original one and thus makes
it difficult to hold one as having violated the copyright law.
In the researchers previous work, (Kotoku, unpublished MA thesis

2001:126), he wrote that, in Taiwan, for example, a jewellery
manufacturing company, S&L has over 17,000 styles, including rings,
pendants, earrings, and bracelets. All of the companys designs are
181
patented. The President of S&L, Mr. Simon Liu believes that a constant
stream of new designs is essential. Another company, Three & Three has a
team of eight full time designers who produce new designs every season.
The company employs a total of 30 people. This means that about 28% of
its employees are designers. No wonder, 90% of its products is exported to
the USA. Also in Taiwan among other things, many companies have
doubled or tripled the number of designers they employ, turning out new
designs and products on a regular basis. In an interview by the editor,
with the Chairman of the Taiwan Association of Stationery Industries, in
the Giftware magazine, which is relevant to this research, he said the
following in an answer to the question: What about the level of design in
Taiwans stationery industry?
He said five or six years ago, designs here were not particularly good.
However, since the time the China External Trade Development Council
(CETRA) has been sponsoring visits for Italian designers to come to
Taiwan, they share their designs and ideas in exhibitions and projects,
with the necessary funding being provided by CETRA and members of
the association. CETRA also has design centres in Italy, Japan, and
Germany. The centres are of course helping improve the level of our
design. (Giftware, 1998: 20)
182
One cannot isolate design from quality finish and craftsmanship.

Ghanaian jewellers have to make a name for themselves in terms of
reputation and quality. The quality of materials and workmanship must
be very competitive.
In South Africa, AngloGold Ashanti has played a major role in the upliftment of the jewellery industry. With former AngloGold now partnering
with former Ashanti Goldfields Company to form the new AngloGold
Ashanti, the government should take advantage of it to let it invest in the
value addition to gold as it is doing in South Africa since that is already
one of their objectives value addition.
Information from the Internet, www.knust.edu, under the monthly news,

is that, as a first step, AngloGold Ashantis representatives met with the
Vice Chancellor of KNUST to find out ways of co-operating with the
Metals section of the College of Art and Social Sciences. Present at the
meeting, according to the report, was Mr. Offei Nyarko, the then Deputy
Vice Dean of the College, and Mr. Kofi Asomaning, head of the Metals
Section of the College of Art and Social Sciences, KNUST. At the invitation
of AngloGold Ashanti and other institutions, Otumfuo Osei Tutu II the
Asantehene (the King of Asante) paid a 10-days historic goodwill visit to
183
South Africa in April 2005. The purpose of the visit was partly to explore
how African royalty could live the African dream of fostering African
Unity, and also to deepen the longstanding relationship that exists
between Ghana and South Africa and also to enhance cooperation and
development that has been initiated between Anglogold of South Africa
and Ashanti Goldfields Company into what is now called AnglGold
Ashanti (Anglo Gold Ashanti, 2005: 6). The Asante King while in South
Africa visited the famous Gold of Africa Museum at Cape Town. This
museum tells the story of gold beneficiation from the 14th century,
boasting of a wide collection of some 350 items representing the major
regions of West Africa, notably Ghana, with some of the goldsmithing
works dating from the 19th and 20th centuries. The Asante King also
visited OroAfrica jewellery manufacturing company in South Africa.
AngloGold Ashanti holds 20% stake in OroAfrica, which is the largest
manufacturer of gold jewellery in South Africa. It has co-operated with it
to launch an African gold jewellery brand by investing in the
establishment of a Jewellery Design Centre at OroAfrica at a cost of
$250,000. The purpose of the centre is to generate new gold jewellery
designs, and to improve product standards through technology, design
and innovation. While Otumfuo Osei Tutu II was being conducted round
the factory of OroAfrica by Mr Kelvin Williams, AngloGold Ashantis
Executive Director, responsible for marketing, as in plate 4.5, Otumfuo
184
Osei Tutu II, who is also the Chancellor of KNUST, seized the opportunity
and called for collaboration between the company and the Kwame
Nkrumah University of Science and Technology in Kumasi, Ghana to
promote skills transference in jewellery production.
Plate 4.5 Otumfuo Osei Tutu II at OroAfrica Jewellery factory in South Africa.
(Source: Anglogold Ashanti West Africa News. Second Quarter, 2005:7)
In the area of design innovation, Anglo Gold Ashantis current Riches of
Africa Gold Jewellery Design Competition was established in 1998 to
showcase South African jewellery designers to enable them to enhance the
technical skills of jewellery manufacturing and to support the local gold
jewellery industry. Training workshops for competitors are held each
year, while the award-winning works are exhibited and used in fashion
shows and other events both locally and abroad.
185
The present resaercher strongly suggests that if the Ghanaian jewellery

industry is to see any radical change, then the government and the
industry players must take the bold step to negotiate with AngloGold
Ashanti to invest in the jewellery industry. It might not be a difficult task
because on the Anglo Gold Ashanti, website, under marketing, Anglo
Gold Ashanti launched a gold and jewellery design competition in Brazil
in 2002, and is the first such competition in that country. The competition
recorded an unprecedented interest, with a high quality of design and
craftsmanship. AngloGold Ashanti is also pushing hard to invest in the
jewellery industry of South Africa to increase the export of that countrys
jewellery. Ghana therefore does not have to play second to South Africa
and end up giving out its strength in the jewellery industry for free in the
name of co-operation.
Another reason why this researcher believes that South Africa can be of
assistance in the promotion of Ghanaian jewellery is that in the words of
the South African Minister of Minerals and Energy, Miss Phumizile
Mlambo-Ngouka at the launching of Vukani-Ubuntu Community
Development Jewellery project, which is a jewellery project in South
Africa to promote the talents of young South African jewellery designers,
South Africa supplies approximate 25% of the raw materials for the
186
jewellery world over, while only contributing less than 1% to the worlds
jewellery market. [A\VUCDjewellery project Messages SA.htm]. This
might mean that South Africa is highly interested in turning more of its
gold into jewellery, and as a proof of its cooperation with Ghana in this
direction in the Daily Graphic of 4th September 2004 titled Anglogold
sponsors local goldsmith, it was reported that Anglo Gold Ashanti was
sponsoring a Ghanaian goldsmith David Apim Tettey to give training on
traditional West African jewellery making techniques to jewellery
students during the Department of Minerals and Energys mining week at
Electra Mining Africa 2004 in Nasrec. The Goldsmith Training Programme
forms part of the Companys benefaction initiatives and focuses on fast
tracking the evolution of new design concepts that combine traditional
goldsmith with African crafts to create jewellery with a distinct African
identity. This programme started in 2000 when AngloGold Ashanti took
seven lecturers from jewellery schools around South Africa to Mali for a
week of training. The Company also brought Malian goldsmiths to South
Africa in 2001-2002. The problems associated with this type of exchange
programme is that while South Africa, which has about 3,000 jewellers
who use modern machines want to add our designs to theirs for a good
blend in order to come out with new designs, the Ghanaian and Malian
goldsmiths may be excited about the per diem emolument they may get
from such travels, and the impart knowledge for free. A solution to this
187
type of brain drain is that the Government agencies that authorise such cooperations must negotiate properly to get Ghanaian goldsmiths also
trained in South Africa. Ghanaian goldsmiths on the other hand must also
take interest in not only imparting knowledge to the South Africans but
must also take interest in learning from them. We should not pretend to
be leaders in the industry. We should accept that our technology is
primitive`, and our equipment obsolete. The South Africans have not
approached us because we are better goldsmiths than they are but because
we have an untapped design base.
Figure 4.2 Response from customers on how they see the designs of jewellery
produced in Ghana
80
70
60
50
NUMBERS
40
30
20
10
Po
or
Fa
ir
oo
d
G
Ex
ce
l le
nt
Ve
ry
go
od
188
From the figure 4.2, 4 customers or 5% see the designs as excellent, 12

customers out of 80 or 15% respondents see the designs as very good.
72.5% or 58 respondents see the designs as good whiles 2 or 2.5% and 4 or
5% see the designs as fair and poor respectively. Since majority of the
customers have been buying jewellery for over five years, and they rate
the products as good, it implies that the customers agree with this
researcher that the designs of the products need to be improved.
4.3 Problems and solutions to poor display and packaging of jewellery

In Ghana, gold and silver, and other expensive jewellery like beads, and
ivory are mostly displayed on a display pad in a glass showcase, or in a
packaging box in a showcase in a showroom. Glass beads and less
expensive jewellery are normally displayed on tabletops in the open,
especially in the markets or in the showroom. Most goldsmiths and other
jewellers in Ghana sometimes display their jewellery in showcases in front
of their shops. They thus act as both production jewellers and sellers. This
is probably because they may think that they want to cut down cost by not
employing a salesperson. This has the advantage of the goldsmith or
jeweller himself having direct contact with the customer. This practice
however, may obstruct production since one may have to get up from his
production table to attend to customers. Glass beads, Brass and copper
jewellery are heaped in the open with no sense of special arrangement. To
189
make jewellery appealing, there is the need to use the right approach to
display them. Considering the right way of arranging jewellery, Miss Ruth
Mellergaard, who is a jewellery store designer and president of GRID/3
International, a New York City design firm, suggests that jewellery
showcases have to be of a certain height, and arranged in a particular way.
She says high showcases, once thought to intimidate customers, are now
seen as a good way to bring jewellery closer to customers so they do not
have to bend over. Wall showcases at eye level are also recommended.
This height is between one metre and 1.5 metres.
It is also important to provide one or two chairs or stools for customers so

as to make them comfortable in jewellery shops. It is preferable to use the
bar-type seat since younger customers prefer to perch, rather than sit in
more formal chairs. Ghanaian jewellery showrooms are not set up as
above, even though a few have provided chairs for customers. On the
items displayed, it can be overwhelming to try to look at everything in a
full display case. This means that not too much should be displayed at a
time. This has to be done because when too many are displayed, it
becomes difficult for the customer to view the items properly. It is also
good to display the jewellery several inches from the floor and the display
cabinet.
190
The packaging of jewellery products to customers is as important as the

jewellery itself. But unfortunately, jewellers do not give the packing of
jewellery the necessary attention it deserves. In most cases, it is treated as
secondary. The reason why jewellers do not give the packaging the
necessary attention it deserves is that the packaging boxes or materials
cost money and instead of factoring it as part of the production cost, it is
assumed by jewellers as if it is waste of money. A few have however tried
to package their products to customers as a way of increasing sales. Most
of the packaging boxes especially clear Perspex boxes for wedding and
engagement rings are imported into the country by traders.
Figure 4.3 View of customers on packaging of Ghanaian jewellery
80
70
60
50
NUMBERS
40
30
20
10
0
YES
NO
191
As can be seen in figure 4.3, 67.5% of the eighty customers interviewed do

not like the packaging of their products. Only 32.5% were satisfied with
their products. Kotoku (2001:129) wrote that Novel Bijou, a jewellery
company in Accra previously used locally made bags of kente cloth, but
according to the Manager, Kwame Kuamuar, the cost of producing them
has gone up considerably, and the quality is also not now appealing so he
has changed to the imported types. Jewellery companies can team up and
order the boxes in bulk with each company having its name or logo
imprinted on it. This will reduce the cost of one company having to
import a small quantity and therefore not have discount on bulk purchase.
Even though this writer is not in favour of the importation of the jewellery
boxes because in Ghana, we have a lot of cloth off cuts or wood waste that
can be used in the making of jewellery packaging boxes. All we need to do
is to sell the idea to any body that is interested in producing them for the
jewellers. The jewellers themselves can also produce the packaging
materials themselves as an additional source of income. South Africa has
initiated a jewellery boxes and packaging project. This initiative would
provide appropriate design, branding, logos and packaging of new South
African gold jewellery products and could replace the current imported
packaging supported by the jewellery industry. The pilot packaging
project will serve as a valuable pilot to develop prototypes and test the
market. Ghanaian jewellers can liaise with our South African counterparts
192
to also try to develop local packing boxes at cheaper costs. As written

earlier, our boxes could be made of wood off-cuts or sawdust. There are so
much wood wastes from the wood industries that the raw material base
for the wooden jewellery boxes will not be a problem. It will also be a
source of employment for some of the numerous unemployed youth.
Vocational schools and dressmaking institutions could also train their
students how to make these bags.
Those who sell beads and other less valuable jewellery in the markets also
do not pay attention to packaging. The jewellery, especially bought in
bulk is wrapped in any polyethylene bag or paper just convenient for
carrying. This type of packing causes the jewellery to scratch one another
and makes some of the jewelleries lose their lustre through friction, or
rubbing on each other.
4.4 Problems of pricing: Their solutions

There is no clear-cut policy on the pricing of jewellery in Ghana. In my
earlier thesis, I wrote that there are four different types of pricing.
i.
Cost based Accountants approach
ii. Market Demand based Economists approach

iii. Competition based The Traders approach
iv. Market based Based on value satisfaction
193
The cost based pricing is the type of pricing that is determined by costing
the actual factors of production incurred in producing the item, and then
adding a profit to it.
When there is a higher demand for a particular design, then it is the

market demand type of pricing. Even though the cost of producing the
item could be used as a basis for pricing, it is usually over priced because
it has a high demand advantage.
In certain cases, a trader lowers the price of his items so as to sell more
than his competitors. Based on that, he will sell at the same price or a little
lower, so as to win more customers. This type of pricing is the competition
based.
In the case of market based pricing or value satisfaction, the firms

goodwill and its products and services influence the price at which the
jewellery is priced. For example, one buying beads would regardless of
their high price, buy them if he is told that they are Krobo beads. The
name, it is believed goes with quality.
194
Ghanaian jewellers and other craftsmen have an advantage in the pricing

of their works in that, since most of the products are handcrafted, and no
two items are identically the same, though the type of designs in one shop
could be the same as that of another shop, there is no basis for calculating
the price. The products including jewellery are priced anyhow and they
therefore tend to sell most often at high prices. The customers who are
aware of this also most times bargain before buying.
The location of the shop could even influence the price. The prices could
therefore be exorbitant or not. The seller can even sell at a loss depending
on how dire he is in need of money at a particular time. Jewellery shops
that are located in prime areas price their works more expensive than
those not in well commercial areas.
Pricing has also become so competitive that with information on the

Internet, www.manobi.net has it that farmers in the field, artisans, and
fishermen on the sea can use their mobile phones to check prices before
they set off and find out where they will get the best offer price for their
produce. This means that their wares are not sold from one shop but they
operate mobile merchandise. With the advantage of using the mobile
phone, they are abreast with the latest prices. They therefore can sell at a
high or low price depending on market demand. With a strong
195
association, jewellers can also take advantage of the mobile phone

technology to communicate prices with members so as to get good
bargains.
Though the above can be a good way of getting good or high price for art
works including jewellery, there is the general scarcity of information on
market
prices.
Prices
could
also
sometimes
be
under
quoted.
Misinformation on current prices is a likely cause of impoverishment of

the rural craft producers including jewellers. This is because they are not
well informed. Furthermore, the rural population is not generally
supplied with sufficient means of communication. The mobile and fixed
telephone networks covered a very little and negligible part of the rural
areas. Presently, the mobile communication network covers the entire
country with the Cellular companies competing among themselves.
Figure 4.4 Customers impression about the price of Ghanaian jewellery products
70
60
50
40
NUMBER
30
20
10
0
Very high
High
Moderate
Low
196
The general impression of customers about Ghanaian jewellery products

is that the prices are high. This is because as can be seen in figure 4.4, 20%
of responded said the prices were very high. Sixty percent of customers
responded that the prices were high, while only 18.8% said the prices
were moderate and 1.2% said they were low. The writer also agrees with
the customers that the prices of jewellery products especially gold
jewellery are high.
The probable cause for the high price of jewellery products especially gold
jewellery even though Ghana has large deposits of gold is due to the
production loss. The accepted loss in gold jewellery production is as high
as 10%.
4.5 Selling of jewellery: Problems and solutions

In the jewellery trade in Ghana, the selling of jewellery takes mainly two
forms: wholesaling and retailing. Most of the jewellery is retailed or sold
direct to the consumer. Information collected from the field shows that
manufacturers of non- precious jewellery like beads, copper, brass and
electroplated jewellery are sold in bulk to retailers who also sell to their
consumers whom they say are mainly tourists. The jewellery is normally
displayed on tables or in showcases in the markets and sold to customers
by the wives or children of the producers. (Refer to plates 4.6 to 4.9).
197
Plate 4.6 Beads jewellery displayed in an open showcase at Cedi Beads.

Plate 4.7 Jewellery displayed in a showcase in front of a shop at Asafo, Kumasi.

198
Plate 4.8 Imported Filigree and Bangles jewellery displayed in the market.
(Source: Ayensu !997:133)
199
Plate 4.9 Brass cast jewellery displayed on a table at Krofufurom in Kumasi.

200
The brass casters of Kofufurom keep their works on a table in their rooms,
and when a customer comes, they either take the items out of their rooms
or pour them on the bare floor for the customer to make his selection.
Prices are not fixed and the prices quoted depend on the type of customer.
They normally in most cases sell to foreigners at higher prices. Another
strategy used by jewellery producers to increase sales is by hawking of the
jewellery. Hawking may be in the form of selling from house to house,
market to market or from town to town. The jewellery, whether copper,
beads, brass, or electroplated costume jewellery is carried round by the
smiths themselves, their wives or middlemen. In the Krobo area, which is
noted for their bead jewellery production, the men are the main producers
of the beads. They work from Monday to Friday. They go to farm on
Saturday, and rest on Sundays. The women, who string the beads, take
them to the markets for sale. Since each village has its own market day,
the women trade on a different market each day. Koforidua and
Agormenya in the Eastern Region for example, have their market days on
Thursdays and Saturdays respectively. On Mondays, which are the
market days for beads in Kumasi, all sorts of beads are displayed for sale
at both wholesale and retail prices. In the Kumasi Central market, this
writer was told by Madam Alice Borkettey a beads seller from Krobo, said
201
that traders come from as far as Cote DIvoire Mali and Burkina Faso to
buy beads in large quantities to go and resell them in their countries. One
problem observed in this international trade in large quantities to the
traders is that the Ghanaian traders are ignorant of the fact that they are
exporting the beads to the neighbouring countries. They therefore do not
fill the necessary export declaration forms for the traders, so that they can
be shown at the exit border points of the country so that the correct export
data can be captured with the Ghana Export Promotion Council for
planning purposes since as said earlier, information and data on the
industry is scarce. It is therefore assumed that beads are not exported,
whiles it is not so. In Ghana, one has to obtain a licence from the Ghana
Police Service to hawk gold jewellery. No licence is required to hawk any
other form of jewellery. The hawkers licence does not even have the
pictures embossed on them. As in the researchers previous thesis, some
hawkers may take advantage of the house-to-house selling to dupe or
burgle unsuspecting people. Even though hawking could boost sales, it is
very dangerous. Sometimes, thugs rob the hawkers when they are
travelling from one village or town to the other. Not withstanding the
problems associated with hawking, it is recommended by the researcher
that a lot of people could go into hawking since it requires little capital,
and there are no rents or high overheads to be paid except the toll that one
pays to the Local Councils for use of the markets. Even though there are
202
travelling expenses incurred by the hawkers, they are minimal as

compared to those paid by other traders since jewellery is handy and the
traders do not have to pay money for the transportation of their luggage.
In most cases, precious jewellery like gold and silver are sold direct to
consumers from showrooms. Usually, the sales persons in the jewellery
showrooms do not have adequate knowledge in the techniques of
producing and selling jewellery, because owing to insufficient money, the
owners of the shops are unable to employ qualified sales persons. Also,
even though the Metals Section of KNUST turns out at least twenty
graduates in jewellery and metal products design annually, they either
work in workshops or branch out to some other vocations. For instance,
this researcher employed a female graduate from the College of Jewellery
in his jewellery shop but she resigned, attended a Training College and
took up a teaching appointment, complaining that the selling of jewellery
was boring to her. In view of this and other complaints, it is suggested
that those employed to sell jewellery in jewellery shops, ought to be
scholars who have studied apart from jewellery, marketing and customer
care. Another graduate from the metals section, who used to be the
marketing representative of Stanchart Bank in Kumasi is now a marketing
and customer services officer of Zenith Bank in Kumasi. During my
interaction with him, he attributed his shift from the jewellery industry to
203
work at the bank because he believes the bank will give him more
prospects and job security. Also, in his opinion, it was expensive to start a
jewellery shop on your own, and also, the few jewellery shops he sees
around were not run in a businesslike manner, and are small scale. If he is
employed in any of them, they might not guarantee him regular income.
Two other female graduates from the Metals section of the College of Art
and Social Sciences are working with the Ashanti Regional office of the
Ghana Tourist Board. They also said they find their present job very
interesting. The metals BA degree according to one of them was only used
as a springboard. In the researchers previous thesis, he again referred to
one of the showrooms of the PMMC in Accra, where the sales supervisor
holds a B.A. degree in Social Science from KNUST, and an M.A. degree in
Communication Studies. However, since she has no background
knowledge in Jewellery making, and can therefore not explain certain
technicalities of jewellery production to customers she is not likely to
maximise the sales of PMMC. Since the Precious Mineral Marketing
Companys problem is not about the cash to pay the sales staff, they
should have employed someone from either the College of Jewellery in
Weija, or Metals Section of KNUST, who has some idea on jewellery and
can offer professional advice to customers. Most of the graduates from the
Metals Section of the College of Art, KNUST employed by the Precious
Minerals Marketing Company, work in their workshop. This researcher
204
was therefore delighted to hear that the Marketing officer of the Precious
Metals Refinery, (a gold refining company in Accra,) is a graduate from
the Metals Section of the College of Art, KNUST.
It was written in the researchers previous MA thesis that, sales persons

should be ready for the customer who is familiar with jewellery
technicalities, and the one who is not. A customer may not know the
difference between gold karat and diamond karat. Another may not know
what 14ct gold 18ct gold means. A customer may ask, Is your jewellery
made of pure gold, or is this piece made of solid gold? An illiterate
sales person will find it difficult to answer it correctly to satisfy a
customer. This is because being untrained he may not be aware of the
different qualities in gold or other types of jewellery.
4.6 Problems of insurance and their solutions

Even though it is important that jewellery companies insure their
premises against all risks, research from the field indicated that most of
the jewellery shops have not insured their premises. The reasons given for
the failure to insure is that they are expensive and a waste of money. The
problem however is that when there is a fire outbreak or burglary, the
companies tend to loose everything. There is therefore the need to educate
the public, especially jewellers on the importance of insuring ones
205
premises. Moreover, insurance premium is accounted for as an expense

and not taxable.
Kotoku (2001:140) wrote that, Insurance policy is the secret and effective
watchman. This is because if the watchman of an insured jewellery shop is
tied and the shop is burgled, the owner of the shop can make an insurance
claim, but if the shop is robbed at gun point, there is no claim to be made
because according to the insurance law it insures only against forceful
entry.
This should not however suggest that jewellery shops should not employ
watchmen since insurance companies take the presence of a watchman at
a premise into consideration in deciding on the percentage of premium
that a company should pay. This is because when one employs a
watchman and also undertakes an insurance premium, the risk element is
reduced just as when one insures against fire and has fire extinguishers.
Again, as written in the researchers previous thesis, a sad aspect of the

insurance policy is that if armed robbers entered a jewellery shop at gun
point and made away with the jewellers wares or money, the insurance
companies would not be liable, since it was not regarded as burglary or
forceful entry but robbery. Also, if after working hours, the premises is
206
locked, and there is burglary, and it is established that a duplicate key, or

the original keys were stolen and used to open the premises and the
merchandise stolen, the insurers will also not accept a claim. Jewellers
therefore are advised to study the insurance law very well before going in.
Even though insurance is good, if the requirements are not met, and one
rushes to insure ones jewellery shop, one may merely waste money. On
the other hand the research has revealed that individuals can deposit their
jewellery at the banks for safe keeping and they can also insure them
against robbery as is done in the developed countries. When this is done,
it will make customers buy more jewellery since they will not be afraid of
losing them.
CHAPTER FIVE
DISCUSSIONS
5.1 Registration of jewellery shops as legal entities

One of the decisions that a jeweller has to take is to see to the registration
of his business as a legal entity. The form of registration determines the
type of legal ownership. The registration used to be done only in Accra by
the Registrar Generals Department. Each type of legal ownership
however has its advantages and disadvantages.
207
Kotoku (2001:153) indicated that of the nearly thirty individual

goldsmiths workshops visited in Kumasi, none of them had registered
with the Registrar Generals Department under the then Ministry of Trade
at that time. The reason given by the master goldsmiths at that time was
that since the Government did not supply them with raw materials they
did not understand why they should register their shops for the
government to tax them. This reasoning by the jewellers was unfortunate
because they have to understand that it was not only a civic responsibility,
but also a social obligation for them to pay their taxes. It is not the duty of
government to supply them with raw materials. Even if the government
supplied them with raw materials in the past it was not obligatory for it to
do that. Regarding the registration of jewellery workshops, it is
encouraging to learn that the owners of the recently established shops in
Kumasi have registered theirs with the Registrar Generals Department.
Table 5.1 testifies to the fact that of the forty shop owners interviewed,
twenty five representing 62.5% have registered their businesses with the
Registrar Generals Department. And as can be seen from Table 5.3, out of
the forty shops interviewed, eighteen of them which represent 45% have
been in business for less than five years. This further testifies to the point
earlier made that the recently established shops have heeded to the advice
to register their shops.
208
Table 5.1 Interview with some owners of some Jewellery shops.

Sample Size Respondent
(Jewellers)
40
40
Respondent
%
100
YES
YES % NO NO %
25
62.5
15
37.5
Table 5.2 Form of business ownership.

Sample A
Size
40
40
100% 27
67.5% 1
2.5% 12
30%
0%
Key to Table 5.2 A=Respondents, B=%Respondents, C=Sole Proprietorship,

D=%Sole Proprietorship, E=Partnership, F=%Partnership, G=Limited
Liability Company, H=%Limited Liability Company, I=Other, J=%Other
Table 5.3 Number of years that the jewellery shop has been in Business
Sample
Size
Respondents
Less
than
5yrs
40
40
100% 18
5-10yrs
45% 8
More
than
10yrs
20% 14
35%
This encouraging development has partly resulted from the advice this
researcher has been giving to his colleagues, the jewellers. Also, during
our previous research this researcher recommended to the Business
Advisory Centre under the National Board for Small Scale Industries,
headed by Madam Beatrice Boakye to train and run business courses for
209
the goldsmiths and other jewellers. It is remarkable to note that, as a result

of the recommendation, three courses and a seminar have been organised
for jewellers in Ashanti Region by the Business Advisory Centre. My
present suggestion, however, also in this thesis is that the Business
Advisory Centre ought to give business advice, educate, counsel and
direct jewellers to register their businesses under any of the following
business organisations.
i. Sole Proprietorship
ii. Partnership
iii. Limited Liability Company
iv. Joint Stock Company or
v. Co-operative
It must be pointed out that Co-operative societies have to first register
with the Registrar Generals Department as a Limited Liability Company
limited by guarantee before registering as a co-operative society with the
Department of Co-operatives.
The Registrar of Co-operative Societies of Ghana, Mr Ernest A Dame, has

said that, the number of cooperative societies in the country at the
beginning of the third quarter of 2006 stood at 3,241. Ashanti region has
the highest number of societies with 727. According to Mr Dame, there are
mainly four categories of co-operative societies, and these are Agriculture,
210
Industrial, Service and Financial. Agriculture records the highest number

with 1749 and the industrial which covers small scale manufacturing like
batik and tie and dye among others. Unfortunately however, of all these
co-operative societies, only one is in the jewellery sector, i.e. the Odumase
Krobo Bead Co-operative Society.
Mr Dame continued that the co-operatives hinge on group spirit, which

are economic entities, and in the absence of the communal or self-help
concept, they tend not to strive. The cardinal objective of the department
is to educate co-operatives on group dynamics and good governance. He
is optimistic that the era of free enterprise now prevailing will see the
emergence of more societies as they are business enterprises. 3 The
Jewellers including goldsmiths are therefore advised to form cooperatives so as to gain from the group spirit concept.
When the Business Advisory Centre of the NBSSI is educating the

jewellers on the registration of their businesses, it must stress on the
benefits associated with them, not forgetting the advantages of forming
cooperatives. The Business Advisory Centre of the NBSSI must also
Interview with Mr Ernest Dame, by Konrade K Djaisi of the B&FT reported in October 23,
2006 issue of the Business and Financial Times p 4
211
explain to them the related laws governing the registration of businesses

in Ghana which this writer has stated below:
i. Registration of Business Names Act, (1962) Act 151 and Registration of

Business Names Regulations 1972 LI 261
ii. Incorporated Private Partnerships Business Act, (1962) Act 152
iii. Companies Code (1963) Act 179
iv. Business Corporation (official Liquidation) Act, (1963) Act 180
v. Co-operative Societies Decree NLCD 252 of 1968, and Regulations of
1968.
vi. The Trustees (Incorporation) Act, 1962 and its Amendment PNDC Law
311
The aforementioned Acts of Parliament makes provision for the

description of each type of business, who owns it, how it should be
operated, and how it should be wound up or liquidated. When a business
is legally registered, it receives legal protection because it is treated as a
legal entity. This means that it can sue and be sued. Information collected
during the field research showed that most jewellery shops are still not
legally registered with the Registrar Generals Department despite the
benefits, and the requirements of the law. The reason given by the Ashanti
Regional head of the Ministry of Trade, Industry and Presidents Special
212
Initiatives (MOTI & PSI) is that, there has not been any enforcement of the
law. There is therefore the need to enforce the law because under this
present modern democratic Ghana, if company A goes into business
transaction with company B that is not registered, the former cannot sue
the latter if the latter defaults. The jewellery companies as pointed out
earlier are rather thinking of the tax implications rather than the legal
implications. For this reason, most of the jewellers do not feel compelled
to register their businesses.
Another reason why most businesses do not register is that, the process of
registration is very cumbersome and is likely not to be easy for the
ordinary jeweller.
For example, in registering a Limited Liability
Company, a company name will have to be chosen, and the name chosen
must not be misleading or undesirable in the opinion of the Registrar of
Companies. Concerning the registration procedure for a Limited Liability
Company, the number of shareholders ranges from a minimum of one to
the maximum of fifty persons. The Directors of such a company however
should not be less than two. The Company must have a location and
postal address. An Auditor who must consent in writing must be
appointed at the time of registration, and the company must have a
Secretary. The Company must have clear objectives that must not be in
conflict or unrelated. Every Company is required to fill an income tax
213
registration form that will enable it to obtain an income tax registration

number.
Following incorporation or registration, companies must file
annual returns with the Registrar Generals Department showing their

audited balance sheet and profit and loss statement within eighteen
months of incorporation. Thereafter, audited accounts and profit and loss
statements must be filled every twelve months with the Registrar
Generals department. The Companys code also requires that strict
accounts showing the financial position of a company and changes to such
positions and the proper control of all properties be kept by the
shareholders annually. A profit and loss account, and a balance sheet,
prepared and signed by the Auditors and Directors, a report by the
directors on the companys affairs and a report of Auditors on the books
of accounts, balance sheets, and profit and loss statement, must be
prepared and made available at the companys offices. Failure to take
reasonable steps to ensure that proper books and report are kept and filed
renders the companys directors liable to a two-year imprisonment, a fine
or both. After incorporation, every company with foreign investors must
be registered with the Ghana Investment Promotion Centre (GIPC)
Depending on the objectives of the business, registration with Ghana
Export
Promotion
Council,
Copyright
Administration,
Minerals
Commission, Free Zones Board, and Environmental Protection Agency

may become necessary. The process is such that even those who venture
214
to register their businesses especially as limited liability companies have

to fall on professionals like accountants, lawyers, and consultants who
charge them exorbitant fees. If the registration process is simplified, in the
opinion of this writer, more firms including jewellery industries will
register. The registration is important because as stated earlier, it legally
protects the business, and gives various institutions like the banks and
other stakeholders the legal mandate to deal with such registered
companies. The writer however, recommends that jewellery firms should
not only register as limited liability companies since the fees for such
registration are higher than other forms of registration, and such fees
could be invested in the business to increase production.
With a business enterprise, or sole proprietorship, it can be registered in

circumstances where an individual or corporate body registers a name.
The following information is required on the application forms for
registration.
i.
business name
ii.
general nature of business
iii.
principal place of business and all other places at which the

business is carried out
iv.
present name, surname, and any former names
v.
nationality and Nationality of origin where relevant
215
vi.
date of birth
vii.
residence and other business occupations,
viii.
date of commencement of business.
This form must be signed by the proprietor, or if the enterprise is owned

by a company, by a director or secretary. The Registrar can refuse to
register the business name if he has a reason to believe that the business is
unlawful or that the name is calculated to mislead the public, or that the
name is undesirable, or that the name has previously been registered on
behalf of somebody. The registration of a business name must be renewed
annually or else it lapses. The annual renewal is however flouted by most
businesses, because the operations of the Registrar Generals office is
carried out only in Accra, and apart from being time consuming, it is
expensive to travel to Accra every year to renew the licences. This has
made it difficult to know the actual number of businesses including
jewellery businesses in operations. It will therefore be difficult for
stakeholders including the government to get good statistics on existing
businesses including jewellery businesses, to be able to assist them.
In registering a business under the Incorporated Private Partnership Act

of 1961, Act 152, the incorporated partnership firm will have a ceiling
number of 20 partners. This means that twenty goldsmiths can come
216
together to register a business as partners. The partners are personally

liable without limitation for the debts of the firm, although they are
entitled to indemnity from the firm and contributions from all partners.
Every partner is an agent of the firm and his acts done in the course of
business bind the firm. Partners stand in a fiduciary relationship in trust
with the firm and their co-partners and have an obligation to render to
each other full information on all things affecting the firm. If a partner
directly or indirectly carries on any business, which competes with the
firm, he has to account for and pay over to the firm all profits he made in
that business.
During incorporation, a partnership form must be completed and signed

by all partners and delivered to the Registrar Generals department for
filing. The form must contain information on the following
i.
partnership name
ii.
general nature of business
iii.
address of principal place of business and other places at which the

business is carried out
iv.
names, surnames and ages of the partners of the firm and any
former names
v.
nationality of origin of the partners
217
vi.
residence and other business occupations of the partners
vii.
particulars of charges on partnership assets
viii.
date of commencement of business
A stamped copy of the partnership agreement must accompany the

application form. The registration must be renewed once every year.
Failure to renew the registration yearly can lead to inability to enforce the
rights of the firm and its partners arising out of any contract during the
time that there is a default in due registration. The law also requires that
proper accounts of the firm are kept and a balance sheet, profit and loss
accounts are prepared and lodged with the Registrar General every fifteen
months. In the event of any changes in the particulars registered, the
existing partners must file a statement informing the Registrar of the
changes within 28 days of the change taking effect.
From all that have been pointed out so far in this chapter, it is realised that
the passage shows a legal procedure for registering a business in Ghana. It
must be noted also that registering a business is done only in Accra, the
nations capital as indicated earlier. This means that anybody registering a
business would have to travel to Accra at a great cost. Apart from the
registration done only in Accra, any change in the particulars will also
have to be done in Accra. Since the law also stipulates that annual returns
218
have to be filed, it presupposes that there is a lot of cost to be incurred in

the registration process. This has made it difficult for businesses including
jewellery shops to register legally. The subsequent effect of not registering
legally among other things is that the jewellery industry will not get the
required support that it is supposed to get from stakeholders. It will also
be difficult for the government to know the actual number of jewellery
industries in the country for planning purposes. It will also not be able to
transact business with the Banks since the Banks may not want to deal
with an illegal entity. The researchers suggestion therefore is that the
registration process should be decentralised. That is, there should be
offices opened in the regional capitals, if not the district capitals to save
people who transact business with the Registrar Generals office,
including jewellers the cost always incurred from travelling to Accra. The
time saved can go into extra production; whiles the money saved can
increase working capital. Presently, there are agents who charge
exorbitant fees and travel to Accra to do the registration on behalf of the
business owners, including jewellers, and they charge high fees for
rendering such services. Mr Emmanuel Ayitey, a goldsmith at Ash Town
in Kumasi said in an interview that he registered his business through a
middleman. After about a year, when he sent another agent to do the
renewal for him at the Registrar Generals Department in Accra, to enable
219
him to apply for a loan from a financial institution, it was detected that the
certificate of registration was fake.
It is gratifying to note that the Registrar Generals Department in

collaboration with Ghana Post has begun a process to bring business
registration to the doorsteps of the general public. For this reason, the
Registrar Generals Department has designated ninety-five post offices
throughout the country, from where registration forms can be bought.
Prospective applicants can now procure for registration, registration forms
and submit the completed forms to any of the ninety-five designated Post
Offices throughout the country. Business renewal and Annual Return
Forms are also available at the said offices. Replacement of certificates
may also be channelled through the same post offices. Upon submission,
the relevant certificates of incorporation and commencement registration
forms etc can also be collected from the post offices. This information was
signed by Mrs E. Owiredu Gyampoh who is the Registrar of Companies,
and published in the Sept 2, 2005 page 5 of the Ghanaian Times
newspaper number 14,620 ISSN 0855 15039. The scheme according to the
publication was to commence on the 1st September 2005. This is a real
laudable move, and is an opportunity for all proprietors of all businesses
to honour their statutory obligations by filing annual returns, renewing
220
their corporate registrations and to replace their old business certificates

with new ones with security features.
The above problems however notwithstanding, since the decentralisation

has not taken off yet, this author suggests that all jewellers should register
as sole proprietors or Limited Liability Companies. Jewellers must avoid
partnership Incorporation as much as possible. This is because, from past
experience, partnerships that have succeeded are those between same
professionals like Lawyers, Architects, and Accountants etc. There has
been so much mistrust, selfishness and greed among partners. This leads
to serious litigations. Precious time that must go into production is now
being used in litigation. Even though jewellers are also in same profession
and could register as partnerships, their traditional beliefs of secrecy,
mistrust and selfishness will make it difficult for a partnership between
them. The points stated above do not however mean that Partnership is
generally bad, but it is the partners that have to understand the
implications of partnership. There is the need for the partners to also
understand the legal implications. Relevant sections of the Companys
Code, Act 179 of 1963 necessary for this research are reproduced as
Appendix G.
5.2 Apprenticeship
221
Apprenticeship is the combination of learning on-the-job and related

technical
and
theoretical
instructions
for
skilled
occupation.
Apprenticeship has therefore been one of the oldest forms of development

of skills in the world. It began early in the history of mankind, and it
played an important role in developed economies including America.
George
Washington
for
example,
apprenticed
in
surveying.
Apprenticeship in jewellery making, just like other vocations, is also not

an exception. In Ghana, traditionally, one could only become a goldsmith
through inheritance. In other words the art was passed from father to son
or nephew. This was a basic requirement from all prospective apprentices
and in addition, women are traditionally not entertained in the profession.
Previously, before becoming an apprentice in goldsmithing in Ghana, one
was put under six months trial. During that time, the master watched him
closely to ascertain his honesty and vigour for work. The least flaw
exhibited led to disqualification. Again in Ghana, the Apprenticeship Act
was passed in 1970. This is known as Act 351. The Act empowers the
NVTI to among other things to organise apprenticeship, in-plant and
training programmes for industrial and clerical workers and train
Instructors and Training Officers required for the purpose.
The apprenticeship act makes provision for a National Apprenticeship

Council, which was also passed under a Legislative Instrument,
222
Apprentice Regulation L.I. 1154 of 1978, with the major responsibility to

control and regulate all forms of apprenticeship training to ensure
uniformity. It is also the responsibility of the council to study the existing
apprenticeship schemes in relation to standards of training and if
necessary making recommendations for their improvement. It will interest
readers to know that since the enactment of the L.I., the Council has not
been formed, as far as I am aware. This has led to masters not giving the
right training to the apprentices. Some use them for all sorts of menial
work; even some go to the extent of using them to work for them at home
or on their farms. Some are not also paid. Since they do not also know
their rights, most of them obey their masters without complaint. This has
therefore led to many, if not most of the apprentices abandoning the
training. According to some of the masters, there are also instances where
apprentices or even employees steal gold or other raw materials from their
masters for their own jobs to supplement their incomes. This in the
opinion of the researcher may partly be due to the fact that, from data
collected, 75% of the apprentices are above eighteen years old. Some are
even married, and need more money to be able to cope with their financial
obligations.
The get rich quick attitude of the youth has also made
apprenticeship in goldsmithing almost nil. When they start learning and

are able to do some bit of refining of gold, due to poverty, they forget
about their primary aim of being in the trade and they thus concentrate
223
more on the gold or precious metal refining at the expense of learning the
goldsmithing trade.
Apprenticeship as mentioned earlier in the thesis, is not well organised in

the jewellery industry in Ghana, especially goldsmithing. There are no
standards for training. The apprentices instead of their masters training
them, use them as a source of cheap labour, and make them do the most
hazardous parts of the jobs. This is especially what pertains in the bead
industry where they are sometimes made to polish the beads by holding
them in their bare hands and rubbing them on flat stones covered with
sand. This is the practice at certain shops including Cedi Beads, as can be
seen in plate 5.1. This writer has recommended to Mr Cedi Djaba to
construct a tumbler, and use it for the polishing, since the present system
of polishing by using the fingers on bare stone could make the apprentice
fall sick. If he is indisposed, it will affect production in a negative manner.
224
Plate 5.1 An apprentice at Cedi Beads at Krobo-Odumase polishing beads

with sand on a stone with bare hands. (Source: Picture by researcher)
The researcher also recommends the following for the youth who want to
apprentice in jewellery making. The minimum age this researcher
recommends for apprenticeship is fifteen years. This is because at fifteen
years, it is assumed that one would have completed the Junior Secondary
225
School and would still have been staying with ones parents, who might
supplement ones cost of apprenticeship. Also, apprenticing should not be
assumed to be for school dropouts but should be a matter of choice.
In order to reduce the dropout rate in jewellery apprenticeship, it is again

suggested that apprentices should be able to relocate. That is, if the parent
of an apprentice for example, who is an employee, is transferred to
another town, or city, it should be possible for the apprentice to also
transfer to a new master at the place where the parent has been
transferred to, provided master jewellers are there. This will reduce the
tendency of abandoning the programme. The present researcher advises
therefore that when an apprentice is relocating, he must first cancel the
training contract with his current trainer. This should be done in
agreement with the trainer and the consent of the guardian if the person is
under eighteen years old. Once cancelled, one can sign another training
contract with another trainer.
This researcher suggests the following as obligations on the part of the

trainee. It must be noted that under Ghanas Labour Act 651 of 2003,
similar obligations are expected of employees. That is, he must
i.
attend and perform work as directed by the employer unless it is

detrimental to his health and welfare.
226
ii.
observe the conditions of the relevant employment agreement.
iii.
behave in a courteous and professional manner.
iv.
obey all lawful instructions.
v.
work towards achieving the competencies of the apprenticeships

training plan.
vi.
acknowledge that all information obtained from the master and

given in circumstances of confidence must be kept confidential, and
he should not disclose them to any person without his masters
approval.
If an apprentice is under 18 years, this researcher suggests that the

apprentices parents or guardians must ensure that the above
responsibilities are met.
On wages for apprentices as said earlier, it is recommended that as a

minimum, apprentices must be paid a training wage depending on the
financial standing of the master. The wage paid to apprentices must
depend on the individual apprentices progress made during the training.
The wage could also be calculated as a percentage of the pay that the full
time employees take, but this is however dependent on the year or level of
experience of the apprentice. Of the forty apprentices interviewed on the
227
field, it came out however that thirty two, or 80% of the respondents are
paid some form of allowances by their masters.
Tools may also be supplied to the apprentices and deducted from their
wages or allowances. This will motivate them, and also enable the
apprentice to be well equipped to start his own workshop after his
apprenticeship. This measure will therefore increase production or will
not tempt the newly trained jeweller to move into another vocation for
lack of funds to set up his or her workshop.
Of all the workshops this researcher visited, each shop owner engages
only one or two apprentices. At Elder Jewellery at Asafo, in Kumasi for
example, the manager, Mr. E Amponsah the owner, runs the business
single-handed with no other staff. He has no apprentice either. It took this
researcher three days to get him to grant an interview. This is because in
his absence, the shop is locked. According to him, all the times that he was
absent, he had travelled to attend to his Citrus farm. He says his business,
which was registered in the first quarter of 2005, was less than one year,
and he would therefore have to work for sometime before he would
arrange to employ a sales assistant. At Lucky Gold Jewellery at Koforidua
in the Eastern Region, the owner Manager, Mr. Atta Dogoe, who is also
the Vice president of the Federation of Ghanaian Jewellers, almost always
228
has his shop closed since he has to travel to Accra frequently, either to
attend meetings, or to transact business.
It is suggested that to revamp the apprenticeship programme in the

jewellery industry, there is the need to implement Apprenticeship
Regulation L.I. 1154 of 1978 which when adhered to, will enable
apprentices to enjoy some form of income whiles under training as
stipulated in the Apprenticeship Regulation L.I. This will motivate them
to take the apprenticeship seriously, because certain apprentices drop out
because of financial difficulties. Apprentices could combine work with
training so as to further supplement their income. This means that they
could be working somewhere and during weekends they will come to the
workshop to learn. By so doing, the number of jewellers would increase
and this will also increase production. The researcher recommends
between 12 months to three years as the length of apprenticeship, even
though it could extend to four years. This is so because after learning the
basics in the trade for about six months, one needs to learn and practise to
get the requisite trade and work experience before venturing to set up on
his own or to be employed by somebody. Training could be full-time,
part-time or school based. Existing clerical employees therefore could also
undertake apprenticeship. To safeguard both the employer and trainee,
the researcher recommends the signing of a written contract by both
229
parties. Where the trainee is a minor, the guardian or parent should sign it
on his or her behalf.
Most people have always thought of apprenticeship as old fashioned, or

even a form of slave labour. They think so because in modern times one
thinks of training in a vocation only in vocational schools, and any one
who undertakes apprenticeship is assumed to be a school drop out.
Masters also, as said earlier, use apprentices extensively for private gains.
Schoolchildren who also help their parents in their trades after school
hours are said to be under child labour and abuse of the child, even
though, in this researchers opinion, by so doing, the schoolchildren who
learn directly from their parents at an early age end up being the best
artisans. Jewellery is no exception to this. By all accounts therefore,
embarking on an apprenticeship requires a great deal of motivation and
dedication. Most trainers offer very low wages to apprentices, and the
latter are made to work for long hours while some do not pay any wages
at all. One therefore has to persevere to have an apprentice training
rewarding.
This researcher is also of the opinion that apprentices who receive a one to
one training from experienced masters should be encouraged to work on
commission as soon as their skills are up to standard. It is gratifying to
230
note however that whiles interviewing some master-jewellers in

connection with payment to apprentices, some of them indicated that they
were paying commission to apprentices. Pearl Jewellery, also pays
commission to apprentices, depending on the skill of the apprentice. Mr.
Cedi of Cedi Beads in Krobo-Odumase is one of the masters who also pay
commission to apprentices. Master jewellers should also be willing to
teach apprentices the ins and outs of running a small business as well as
the practical skills of the jewellery trade. This however is a problem to the
Masters themselves since they have not undergone business training. The
masters therefore lack business managing acumen themselves. They are
encouraged to avail themselves to training. Some of these business
management-training
programmes
are
advertised
in
the
Daily
newspapers. Empretec Ghana organises in service training for businesses.

Master craftsmen should also be given entrepreneurial training and
refresher courses.
Since certain unkind and difficult masters pay apprentices moderately or,
nothing at all, apprentices must find different odd jobs to supplement
their income. This is because when they do any odd jobs within the
workplace, they are not paid; it is assumed to be part of the training
hazards. It is worth noting that jewellery apprenticeship is usually not for
231
those who want to make a lot of money quickly. Graduating jewellers

from formal training institutions like KNUST and College of Jewellery,
Weija, near Accra, are unwilling to also have the patience to apprentice.
This is because those from the formal training sector lack the working
experience and confidence needed to get a job. Interviews conducted by
this writer revealed that there is a mismatch between the training
provided by training institutions like the College of Jewellery and the
KNUST Department of Industrial Art and other formal jewellery training
institutions and the needs of the jewellery manufacturers when they
employ them. Although students continue to graduate every year from
formal jewellery institutions, a lack of skills required by the jewellery
manufacturers is normally cited by the manufacturers as a major concern.
Graduates can therefore not take their place productively at a jewellery
bench without considerable additional training and tuition. The training
institutions
however
counter
that
jewellery
manufacturers
have
unrealistically high expectations of graduates. They suggested that the

real reason behind the reluctance on the part of jewellery manufacturers to
acknowledge the training courses was a financial one in that, by not
acknowledging the qualifications, the jewellers were not obliged to pay
graduates appropriate salaries. While many jewellery manufactures
denied this others noted that there was an element of truth in the concern.
232
Suggestions and solutions to the above problem are offered in chapter

seven of this thesis.
5.3 Workers health and safety

It is necessary to comment on the workers safety since despite the
hazards that are associated with reckless use of chemicals and tools,
jewellers overlook its importance. When issues of studio safety are better
recognised in the workshop it will give rise to a healthy workforce and
thus increase production. The good news is that, certain shop owners have
made their shops safer than they were. An important factor, however, is
that safety issues are real and must be taken seriously otherwise one can
actually do damage to oneself and others. By behaving unsafely, one can
shorten ones life or sometimes possibly go blind (Kotoku 2001:201).
Safety might be said to be acting in a manner and instituting measures

that preclude or avoid injurious behaviours and circumstances. This
means not doing any thing to hurt one-self or others presently or in the
future that will cause injury. The best safety device this researcher
recommended therefore was carefulness when working. One of the
significant issues in safety is complacency. This means one is used to it;
thus this is the way we have always done it, and we do not see any thing
wrong with it because nothing has happened so far. It is necessary to do
233
away with complacency and analyse the existing situation and be willing
to change and re-evaluate on a regular basis.
Traditional ways of doing things also get in the way of the jewellers way
of doing things. For example, gilding, using dangerous acids and mercury
though in a very dangerous manner, in a way had remained unchanged.
The jewellery industry is slow to adopt new techniques and ways of doing
things, and that attitude is costing goldsmiths their health. An example of
slow ways of doing things by jewellers is that, bead makers still pound
their broken bottles with pestle in mortars, which is dangerous to their
health. Yeboah (1997:117) wrote that, he was informed by Mr. C. K. Darko,
Field Director, Aids to Artisans Ghana, Kumasi that, ATAG has
developed kilns and glass crushers for local bead producers of Krobo. The
development of the kilns and glass crushers is in a positive direction
because it will speed up production, and also be safer than the present
system of pounding in a mortar. Also, with the introduction of modern
melting and soldering devices, most traditional goldsmiths continue to
use the hearth and a palm oil lamp for melting and soldering respectively.
It is recommended that training for jewellers should include education on
modernisation and safety measures. It will be necessary to have a checklist
to be used as a guide to ensure that things are done correctly and that you
do not make mistakes. It must be noted that circumstances change, so also
234
do technologies. It may therefore be a good idea to re-evaluate them on a

regular basis.
5.3.1 Medical Check- Up

As another safety measure, it is necessary for every jeweller to tell his
doctor about the sort of work he does for a living and what metals and
chemicals he is exposed to. Before one starts work or is employed to work
in a jewellery workshop it is advisable for one to go through a medical
examination for one to know the condition of ones lungs and other
organs of ones body. This test should be repeated periodically, say at
intervals of six months. This may easily reveal the adverse effect the
working conditions may have had on jewellers.
5.3.2 Prevention of children and pregnant women from entering workshop

It is also recommended that children should not be permitted to come to
jewellery workshops. This is because when children play around in the
workshop, they can inhale dangerous chemicals; they can also mistake
acid for water, and thereby drink it and die. After a lot of thought, this
researcher thinks and recommends that a pregnant woman should not
work in a jewellery studio because of the numerous particles that fly about
in the room, as well as the dangerous chemicals that may be inhaled by a
pregnant woman. For this reason this researcher had to transfer a
235
pregnant lady goldsmith to the jewellery showroom at another location.

To substantiate this point, it is recounted that during a lecture to members
of the Kumasi Royal Lions Club, a charitable organisation, of which this
researcher is a member, Dr Joseph Akpaloo who lectured on the topic,
Pregnancy Precautions, said that chemicals and dust that a pregnant
woman is exposed to in an ordinary household from carpets and
household cleaning products, are easily transferred to the foetus. Metal
dusts, solvents and other chemicals such as metal salts and oxides, all
have the potential to injure the foetus.
5.3.3 Eating and drinking in the workshop

Eating and drinking in the workshops also may allow particles to be
swallowed into the body, since the particles may fall into the food and
water. If a person wants to drink in a jewellery workshop, he must use a
kind of container that has a cover and then use a straw; this may reduce
the potential chemical contact. It is still important that jewellers should
not smoke cigarettes in the workshop. Smoking, besides being bad for the
health, one ought to know that it reacts with many chemicals like nitric
acid or hydrochloric acid. No Smoking signs as in plate 5.8 should be
displayed not only in the jewellery workshops but also in the showrooms
to remind both workers and customers of the dangers of smoking around
the workplace. Additional warning signs like. Fire Extinguisher location
236
sign as in plate 5.10, or the Flammable Material sign and Explosive

Material sign as in plate 5.3 and plate 5.4 respectively should be
conspicuously displayed in the workplace.
Hygiene is also an important aspect for maintaining good health in order

to increase production. We use our hands so much in the jewellery shops
that they get exposed to all kinds of chemicals, metals and dusts. It is
therefore very important to develop a hand washing habit to reduce
contamination of the hand. The contaminated hands may touch the mouth
while eating etc. Regular thorough hand washing, before leaving a
workshop as a part of the shutting down the shop ritual can help reduce
the overall exposure significantly.
There is a reason for people in factories to wear working clothes. This

keeps ones dress from getting soiled and makes one freer to work. Using
working clothes such as an apron, or overalls helps keep chemicals and
metal residues in the workshop out of the body. A rubber apron is
recommended for dealing with chemicals. It is also suggested not to wear
a ring at the bench, the ring may be hooked onto something, say a
machine part or a hook of some kind and tear the skin of the finger. Also,
a ring must not be worn because chemicals and dusts can get trapped
under the ring and cause reactions which may lead to diseases like
237
dermatitis. Work clothing should also be washed regularly and separated

from other laundry. They should also be washed very frequently. Sandals
or bare feet are also not recommended because particles like saw-blades
and sharp objects could cut the toes. Protective canvas footwear or shoes
are recommended as footwear to be worn in jewellery workshops.
Burns are a common hazard in the jewellery workshop. All goldsmiths,

like other jewellers get small burns now and then and sometimes, larger
burns occur as well. Burns are the most common small injuries reported in
the workshop, next to small cuts. It is not advisable to use oils or greasy
ointments to treat burns. This is because the oils and greasy ointments
from the workshop may be contaminated and when used will cause
infection. While some people use buckets of iced water kept on it for about
an hour as an initial remedy, this writer recommends the use of the juice
from the leaves of plants, or other herbal preparations from a drug store.
The herbal preparations are far cheaper than the orthodox medicines, even
though they are equally efficacious. Burns are however avoidable if safety
precautions mentioned below are taken. If one is working with fire,
torches, and flammable materials, it is important that one is careful at the
workshop to avoid accidents.
238
As part of precautionary measures, it is important to use tweezers and

tongs as much as possible so as to keep the fingers away from the
chemicals, soap, and solvents used. It is ideal to always have stainless steel
tweezers readily at hand.
Since the jeweller uses chemicals for cleaning, finishing, etching,

electroplating, anodising pickling, enamelling, wax working, casting, and
so on, and since he traditionally uses sulphuric acid, nitric and
hydrochloric as well as mixtures of the last two as aqua-regia for refining,
precautions must be taken since all of them are dangerous chemicals to
have around. It must be noted that the basic rule when carrying bottles of
acid is always to keep one hand under the bottle. Because of scientific
inventions, there is now very little need for concentrated acids in most
jewellery workshops. Thus in the researchers MA thesis, he wrote that
using salts that form dilute acids can provide pickles and etchings.
Vinegar and a little salt can also work well as pickling solution. To reduce
the use of acids as much as possible one has to at least get electronic metal
testers instead of acid testers.
The researcher reiterates that, precautions also need to be taken against

dusts since in almost all the jewellery working processes, dusts, no matter
how small, are emitted into the air. Sometimes it can be seen. These are
239
unknowingly breathed in and because the particles are somehow large,

they end up being deposited in portions of the lungs. If we are fortunate,
these may be cleared from the body by its natural mucus where it is
bound up and brought up into the oesophagus and swallowed. The finer
dust particles that we cannot see with the naked eye are the most
dangerous. They enter the lungs, go far deeper into their recesses and can
result in chronic damage. Ventilation in the workshop is therefore very
important if one should have a safe workshop. Cross ventilation is the
most ideal. Cross ventilation is when you have windows at least at two
sides of the room. As recommended in the researchers previous thesis, a
fume or extractor fan is also very important. It can be used in addition to
having windows. A fume hood can also be installed in the studio.
Good lighting in the workshop is also good. The lights could be

positioned overhead, or mounted on the wall, say every six feet apart.
Desk lamps can also be used in addition to the mounted lights. With this,
one may not have sight problems because of using insufficient light to
work.
The research findings show that the number of jewellers having accidents
on the polishing motor whiles polishing is quite high. It is therefore
always necessary to hold things intelligently while polishing them. The
240
polishing machine can also be connected to a foot operated cut off switch
so that when damage is inflicted, the machine would be shut down the
moment anything happens. Some jewellers like to use a polishing motor
that is not very powerful just for this reason that if something happens,
the user can stop the machine easily. The writer however recommends the
foot switch instead. This is because in case of an accident, the foot can
quickly be used to switch off the motor.
It is often said that any action repeated over and over again for a very long
time in a particular posture, has the potential to injure the joint where it is
repeatedly stressed. It is therefore good to try to arrange jobs in such a
way that one can work in different ways and use the body differently
during the day. This suggestion might conflict with the principle of
division of labour and specialisation, but it is recommended because it
keeps the body flexible because the person works in different postures.
Analysis of jewellery workshops is that much damage could be avoided
by having different working heights. Jewellers therefore often perform the
wrong task at the bench pin height because that is the main height
available for all of those working in a particular workshop. Some tasks
should be done at waist height and others at different heights, particularly
if doing the same job over and over again all day. It should be deliberate
to have the soldering station separated from the workbench and at a
241
comfortable standing height for use so that the work layout forces the
worker to change positions fairly frequently. This also allows the
soldering area to be separately vented, which can be difficult to do at a
bench. The above is recommended because, while it may not be as
efficient because it may slow down the work, it is a healthier and more
rewarding method because you get to change your immediate
surroundings and position during the workday.
5.3.3.1 Health and Safety signs/symbols relevant for the growth of the
jewellery industry in Ghana
The following symbols and signs are also necessary, relevant and a must
in every workshop if accidents are to be prevented. Some have already
been referred to in this thesis.
Acids are dangerous substances and should be used carefully. The

corrosive material symbol (refer to plate 5.2) is therefore normally
displayed especially on containers that have corrosive materials like acids
in them. As a safety measure, jewellers must watch out for this corrosive
material symbol on any container especially in the workshop and take the
necessary precautions before opening them. The pickling area in most
jewellery workshops must also have such symbols displayed since in that
area, acids are mostly used.
242
Plate 5.2 Corrosive material symbol. (Source:www.healthandsafety.co.uk/)
Plate 5.3 Flammable material symbol. (Source:www.healthandsafety.co.uk/)

Just like the Corrosive Material symbol, the Flammable Material symbol
(refer to plate 5.3), explosive material symbol (refer to plate 5.4) and Toxic
Material symbol (refer to plate 5.5) must be displayed at the appropriate
243
locations in the workshops and the jewellery showrooms so as to serve as

safety measures against injuries in the workplace.
Plate 5.4 Explosive material symbol. (Source:www.healthandsafety.co.uk/)
Plate 5.5 Toxic material symbol. (Source:www.healthandsafety.co.uk/)
244
Plate 5.6 Ear protection sign. (Source:www.healthandsafety.co.uk/)
Plate 5.7 Eye protection sign. (Source:www.healthandsafety.co.uk/)
Because of injury to both ears and eye, jewellers when working in an area
with excessive noise must wear an ear protector. Areas where there is
excess noise must also have the ear protection sign as in plate 5.6 boldly
245
displayed. In the same vain, where there are excessive radiations like the
soldering and melting areas, the eye protection sign as shown in plate 5.7
must be displayed.
Plate 5.8 No Smoking sign. (Source: www.accuform.com/viewtem.cfm)
Plate 5.9 Fire Extinguisher Location sign.

(Source: www.accuform.com/viewtem.cfm)
246
It is mandatory for public institutions to obtain fire certificates under

Legislative Instrument (LI) 1742. The LI which came into effect in 2003
is to ensure that public buildings in the country put in enough safety
measures to save occupants in the event of fire outbreaks. With the
issuance of the fire certificate, such signs as No Smoking signs as in
plate 5.8, Fire Extinguisher location sign (refer to plate 5.9) and Fire
Exit location sign as in plate 5.10 are mandatory. The LI states that any
person who fails to obtain a fire certificate commits an offence
attracting summary conviction to a fine not exceeding 250 penalty
units or to imprisonment for a term not exceeding 12 months or both.
The certificate, when issued by the GNFS, certifies the adequacy of fire
precautionary measures in a particular public institution. In an
interview with Mr. Philip Arheng-Mensah, the Director in Charge of
Fire Safety at the GNFS Headquarters in Accra, a lot of public
campaign had been done but the public did not seem to heed it. He
explained that it even necessitated the GNFS to take the campaign to
the press in the form of announcements in the hope of getting good
responses from owners of public institutions.
247
Plate 5.10 Fire Exit Location sign. (Source: www.accuform.com/viewtem.cfm)
Plate 5.11First Aid Post location sign. (Source: www.accuform.com/viewtem.cfm)
In jewellery workshops, burns cuts and injuries are part of the daily
routine. It is therefore necessary to have a first aid box in the case of a
small workshop and a first aid post as in plate 5.11 if the firm is a big
248
company. They may be stocked with basic analgesic and such drugs as
can be used to treat burns, cuts and petty injury. The location of the First
Aid box or area must have the first aid post sign clearly indicated as can
be seen in plate 5.11.
Plate 5.12 Wet floor warning sign. (Source: www.accuform.com/viewtem.cfm)
As was observed on the field of research, no jewellery with wet floors had
the Wet Floor caution warning sign, as in plate 5.12 displayed. This sign
is necessary for jewellers doing electroplating, beads making and gold
jewellery polishers since they use a lot of water which spills on the floor.
249
Because jewellers use machines, precious metals and chemicals in the

jewellery workshop, they should have a No Entry sign as in plate 5.13 on
the entrance door of their workshops so as to prevent outsiders from
entering the workshops.
Plate 5.13 No Entry sign. (Source: www.accuform.com/viewtem.cfm)
Certain jewellery shops use high voltage electricity thus when one makes
a slight error and touches it, it can lead to instant death. To avoid such
accidental deaths as a result of contact with electric current, it is important
to have the Electric High Voltage location sign conspicuously displayed.
It should also be displayed as a warning to those who might not know
that particular machines have high voltage of electricity operating them.
The High Voltage Caution sign therefore must not be taken for granted.
250
Plate 5.14 Electric Voltage location sign.

(Source:www.accuform.com/viewtem.cfm)
Staff only indicator sign (refer to plates 5.15a and 5.15b) are signs that
could be placed alongside the No Entry sign, or it could be on its own.
This sign is a warning to outsiders that the area is restricted to only staff of
the company. It was gratifying to learn from the field of research that
some jewellers had this sign at the entrances leading to their workshops.
At the close of day or before the beginning of work every day when the
shop is not yet opened to the public, the Closed sign as in plate 5.16
could be displayed to indicate that the shop is not yet opened to the
251
public. This was also a sign that most workshops had in front of their
showrooms.
Plate 5.15a Staff Only indicator sign. (Source:www.accuform.com/viewtem.cfm)
Plate 5.15b Staff only indicator sign. (Source: www.accuform.com/viewtem.cfm)
252
Plate 5.16 Closed Indicator sign. (Source: www.accuform.com/viewtem.cfm)
5.4 Labour problems

As written earlier, it is my suggestion that more formal post JSS training
and vocational institutions specifically for jewellery should be established
by the government or private individuals. This is because, unlike other
handicraft industries in Ghana like carpentry, masonry, hairdressing,
cookery, needlework, dressmaking, auto engineering, tailoring, interior
decoration or auto body spraying that are learnt formally in post JSS
institutions like vocational schools, none of them offers jewellery. This has
made the labour in jewellery very scarce. What has even made the
situation worse is the lack of interest in apprenticeship. This is because it
is assumed that those who go in to learn as apprentices are school
dropouts. This therefore sometimes has adverse psychological effect on
253
the youth. They are made to feel inferior, and society sees them as such.
The College of Jewellery in Weija, which is the only private institute
training jewellers, has also not lived to expectation, despite the huge
financial support it received from USAID. The college now operates in one
workshop and runs an apprenticeship programme, instead of the Higher
National Diploma and Certificate programmes that it used to run. This is
so because, according to the past students interviewed, since the first
students intake into the school in 1999, no student has graduated even
though they have finished their various programmes of study. This is so
because the Ministry of Education and the National Accreditation Board
has not accredited the school as a tertiary institution to run a Higher
National Diploma, because even though they have enough tools and
equipment, it could not meet the manpower and other logistic
requirements for accreditation. This frustration has therefore left the
promoters of the school with no other option than to convert the schools
programme into an apprenticeship programme. Thanks to the Rural Art
and Industry Department of the Faculty of Industrial Art of KNUST, that
has upgraded its metalwork and jewellery sections, and are training
students in jewellery making. One laudable idea of their programme is
that the students in their third year spend ten weeks of the second
semester on Industrial attachment. Two such students were in my studio,
Pearl Jewellery Ltd, for their industrial attachment. Apart from using
254
metal, the students also use materials like seashells, cowry, seeds, and
scrap metal etc to produce their jewellery. After their training therefore,
they may be well equipped to use not only gold or silver, but also other
materials to produce their jewellery.
It is also suggested by this researcher that the Government should put

legislation in place to ensure training, development of skills and skills
transfer in Ghana. This could be the Skills Development Act which will
aim to equip Ghanaians with the skills to succeed in the global market and
to offer opportunities to individuals and communities for self
advancement to enable them to play a production role in society. The
legislation should aim at the following:
i.
Fast tracking basic training of unskilled, unemployed and

inexperienced youth to produce jewellery.
ii.
Emphasis must be placed on African Art and culture and this must
be encouraged in the creation of jewellery and to promote value
addition of the countrys natural resources.
iii.
Training schools should emphasis on jewellery design. The trainees

should be inexperienced people who should be trained to produce
jewellery in the shortest possible time.
iv.
After their training, or in their final year, should be spent in what

should be called a hive. The hive will afford people or the trainees
255
the opportunity to operate without needing to purchase expensive

equipment and materials. It alleviates the need for participants to
finance the formation of small business and negates start-up costs.
v.
It offers the participants in the hives a safe, secure working

environment
vi.
It offers the participants a shareholding in the hive.
vii.
It assists with marketing to focus solely on their chosen profession.
viii.
It provides experimental training to its trainees in a manufacturing

environment where they work side by side with qualified jewellers.
Employment levels in Ghana have also taken a downturn, and this has
affected the purchasing power of employees in Ghana. This is confirmed
in a Ghana News Agency (GNA) report in Accra on the forth of August
2005 reporting Dr Augustine Fritz Gockel, an economist and lecturer at
the University of Ghana, as saying that Employment levels in the formal
sector have registered a steep decline over the years. He attributed the
downturn to public sector reforms such as retrenchment and downsizing
policies, privatisation and consequential exit initiatives and economic
growth points that were not based on Traditional sources of labour.
Dr Augustine Fritz Gockel was speaking at a day's sensitisation workshop

for members of the Judiciary in Accra. Dr Augustine Fritz Gockel quoted
256
the Ghana Statistical Survey (GSS) as saying the formal public sector
employment, which was as high as 333,000 in 1960 declined to 186,000 in
1991. This turn of events will affect the purchase of jewellery. If the shift
from the public sector employment is towards self employment, then
there is the likelihood that some of the retrenched workers can opt to learn
to produce or sell jewellery using their gratuity as working capital to
invest in the jewellery business.
The workshop organized by the National Labour Commission (NLC) on

the theme: "Understanding Labour Act 651" seeks to provide the members
of the Judiciary with sufficient information on the law to ensure adequate
delivery of justice on issues regarding labour. Sponsored by the United
States Agency for International Development (USAID) the forum would
also deal with the institutional framework of the law as well as steps to
guide disputants about employment relations. He said the loss in formal
sector jobs coupled with high growth rates in the economically active
population suggested a burgeoning informal sector estimated at about 90
per cent of the total labour. The reforms, however, had a consequential
effect on the economy since huge sums of money were used to
compensate workers, who were laid off.
257
Dr Augustine Fritz Gockel said as governments and enterprises were not

able to pay the loans contracted to settle retrenched workers what was a
real sector crisis only became a financial sector crisis. By 1990, nonperforming loans and other government-guaranteed obligations to stateowned enterprises were 431.4 billion cedis; the non-performing loan of the
private sector was 421.9 billion cedis.
The financial crisis further limited the ability of firms to increase output
and, therefore, incomes and employment until the international
community came out with interventions to redeem the situation. The
above situation as enumerated by Dr. Gockel will make peoples
purchasing power low, and thus might affect the purchases of items like
jewellery. A solution to this problem therefore is that retrenched people
must be trained to do their own businesses. Training in entrepreneurship
is also necessary because, it prepares one for self employment, and if one
is retrenched, since the person has got enough entrepreneurial skills, his
income level will not fall and thereby will make him still able to buy
luxury goods including jewellery.
At the same function, Mr Danso Acheampong, Deputy Chairperson, NLC,

noted that it was not usual that members of the Bench were sensitised to
the provisions of new enactments. Mr Danso Acheampong, continued to
258
say that, the near oddity, if it may so be described, has come about due to
the history of the new labour law, its role in promoting economic growth
and its alternative mechanism dispute resolution of industrial disputes.
He expressed optimism that the participants would be sufficiently
informed on the provisions of the new labour law to enable them to guide
disputants in employment relations to address their complaints to the
Commission for less time-consuming and inexpensive settlement. Mr
Danso Acheampong said as an instrument promoting harmonious
industrial relations, the Commission would use effective dispute
resolution practices to foster cooperation among the labour market players
and mutual respect for their rights and responsibility.
He noted that since the Commission was inaugurated it had received

more than 200 complaints from individual workers, trade unions and
employers. Some have been settled, others are being processed and
mediation in the rest is underway. The Commission constantly monitors
the labour scene for signals of industrial unrest, liaises with parties
concerned and facilitates negotiated settlements. With the National
Labour Commission playing its expected role in monitoring labour
unrests, it is expected that the human resource in work places including
the jewellery industry will be well motivated to increase output.
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5.5 Motivating the human resource in the jewellery industry

Motivation is concerned with the factors that influence people to behave
in certain ways. Well motivated people are those with clearly defined
goals who take action that they expect will achieve those goals. Such
people may be self-motivated, and as long as this means they are going in
the right direction to achieve what they are there to achieve. Most people,
however, need to be motivated to a greater or lesser degree. The
organisation as a whole can provide the context within which high levels
of motivation can be achieved by providing incentives and rewards,
satisfying work, and opportunities and learning and growth. But
managers still have a major part to play in using their motivating skills to
get people to give of their best, and to make good use of the motivational
processes provided by the organisation (Armstrong, 2006:252).
Motivation therefore can be said to be in two forms. The first is that

people can motivate themselves, and the second is that people can be
motivated by others or management. These two types of people as
identified by Douglas McGregor are what he propounds in his Theory X
and Theory Y.
260
5.5.1 McGregors Theory X and Y Motivational Theory in relation to the

jewellery industry in Ghana 4.
One cannot write on motivation of workers without mentioning
McGregors Theory X and Theory Y which are theories of human
motivation. They were created and developed by Douglas McGregor at
the MIT Sloan School of Management in the 1960s that have been used in
human
resource
management,
organisational
behaviour,
and
organisational development. They describe two very different attitudes

towards workforce motivation. McGregor felt companies followed either
one or the other approach.
5.5.1.1Theory X People and the jewellery industry in Ghana

In this theory, management assumes employees are inherently lazy and
will avoid work if they can. Because of this, workers need to be closely
supervised and comprehensive systems of controls developed. A
hierarchical structure is needed with narrow span of control at each level.
According to this theory, employees will show little ambition without an
enticing incentive programme and will avoid responsibility whenever
they can.
www.businessballs.com/mcgregor.htm
www.amazon.com/Human-Side_Enterprise/dp/0071462228
261
The Theory X manager tends to believe that everything must end in

blaming someone. He or she thinks all prospective employees are only out
for themselves. Usually these managers feel the sole purpose of the
employees interest in the job is money. They will blame the person first in
most situations, without questioning whether it may be the system, policy,
or lack of training that deserves the blame.
Furthermore, Theory X supervisors cannot trust any employee, and they

reveal this to their support staff via their communications constantly. A
Theory X manger can be said to be an impediment to employee morale
and productivity.
Many managers (in the 1960s) tended to subscribe to Theory X, in that

they take a rather pessimistic view of their employees. A Theory X
manager believes that his or her employees do not really want to work,
that they would rather avoid responsibility and that it is the managers job
to structure to work and energize the employee. The result of this line of
thought is that Theory X managers naturally adopt a more authoritarian
style based on the threat of punishment.
One major flaw of this management style is that it is much more likely to
cause diseconomies of scale in large businesses.
262
5.5.1.2Theory Y People and the jewellery industry in Ghana

Theory Y allows a business to expand while making more profit because
factoryfloor workers have their own responsibilities. In this theory,
management assumes employees may be ambitious, self motivated, and
anxious to accept greater responsibility, and exercise self-control and selfdirection. It is believed that employees enjoy their mental and physical
work duties. It is also believed that if given the chance, employees have
the desire to be creative and forward thinking in the workplace. There is a
chance for greater productivity by giving employees the freedom to
perform at the best of their abilities without being bogged down by rules.
A Theory Y manager believes that, given the right conditions, most people
will want to do well at work and that there is a pool of unused creativity
in the workforce. They believe that the satisfaction of doing a good job is a
strong motivation in and of itself. A Theory Y manager will try to remove
the barriers that prevent workers from fully actualizing themselves.
Many people interpret Theory Y as a positive set of assumptions about

workers. A close reading of The Human side of Enterprise reveals that
McGregor simply argues for managers to be open to a more positive view
of workers and the possibilities that it creates.
263
It is an undeniable fact that all levels of employees in the jewellery

industry whether skilled or unskilled, need some form of motivation or
satisfaction on their jobs to help improve productivity, and as a result
jewellery shop owners as employers have to understand why it is
important to give prominence to this idea of motivation so as not to limit
the jewellery industrys effort to increase production. This writer is of the
view that the problems facing the jewellery industry can be solved if these
ranges of factors like conducive working environment, recognition,
promotion, and adequate remuneration are given adequate attention.
When workers in the jewellery industry are not only motivated well, but if
they also have the ability, the necessary skills, equipment, supplies, and
time, they will be able to perform better. In the light of this, jewellery shop
owners must invest some sums of money and other resources on the
fundamental needs of their workers, all in an attempt to motivate them to
concentrate on the job and thus reduce labour turnover, and increase
production. For the jewellery business to survive and expand, the
employees must have levels of rewards to attract, retain and motivate
them. From figure 5.1, 74% of employees of jewellery firms apart from
their regular pay, receive some form of incentive from their masters or
employers. This is a laudable development because as stated earlier, it will
boost the morale of the employees and production will increase.
264
Figure 5.1 Number of employees who receive some form of incentive apart from
regular pay
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
NUMBERS
%
YES
NO
There will be countless number of benefits to be derived when

productivity in the jewellery industry increases. We have earlier
mentioned increase in employment, increase in revenue to the producers,
the District Assemblies, the government by way of increase in taxes and
export revenue as some of the benefits to be derived.
In Ghana, the government has realised the importance attached to

increase productivity in both public and private sectors and this has given
birth to a number of attempts made to curtail what hampers and limits
productivity. The Labour Act, 2003 (Act 651), is now in place to govern the
relationship between employees and employers, especially on matters
265
concerning industrial relations. Both employers and employees are now

awakened on their rights in dealing with each other. This then has called
for a careful consideration to be given to all matters having bearing on
productivity; some of which being the need to motivate employees to give
an output of acceptable quality to realise the dreams of the industry of
increased earnings, which is the primary aim of almost all business
activities. Unfortunately employees who incidentally contribute so much
to the success of many businesses including the jewellery industry have
not been given the needed attention as they deserve. Employers adopt
various concepts of labour influencing employer-employee relationship,
and this has portrayed clearly what perception they have about
employees. Some employers have been noted for lack of care and
attention employees deserve. Employers including Managers in the
jewellery industry as written earlier are usually very exploitative, abusive,
authoritative, harassing, molesting etc without taking notice that whatever
strategy is in place will attract a corresponding reaction from employees.
As a result of these inadequacies and leadership insensitivities, a whole lot

of uncomfortable situations usually arise on the part of employees in the
jewellery industry in the form of lukewarm attitude towards the work.
The following issues are also affected as a result of employees attitude.
These are employee performance, employee responsibility, the image of
266
the firm, job satisfaction, organisational and individual commitment,

innovation and creativity and in the long run a total stagnation and
liquidation. Again it is uncommon to see employees putting up bad
working habits like absenteeism, lateness, pilfering, misappropriation etc
if they are well motivated. This writer is convinced that the success of the
jewellery business depended on having the right people and motivating
them properly. As said earlier therefore motivation is not just about
money. It is about creating an environment in which the jewellers work.
5.6 Learning from South Africa

It is suggested by this writer that the jewellers association of Ghana
arranges to buy gold on credit from the mining companies to facilitate
their work as the College of Jewellery buys gold on credit from Goldfields
Ghana Ltd, and as South African jewellers also buy gold on credit from
their mining companies. I suggest in addition, that the government of
Ghana should assist the jewellers of this country to go through the
arrangement with mining companies as the South African government
has done on behalf of their jewellers in South Africa.
It is further suggested that the mining companies in Ghana should partner

with gold jewellers of the country to produce gold jewellery for the local
267
and foreign markets as Anglogold Ashanti has partnered with OroAfrica

in South Africa to produce gold jewellery. Also, as Anglogold Ashanti has
helped OroAfrica to institute a design unit in Cape Town for the
improvement of their jewellery designs, the mining companies should do
likewise for the Jewellery Association of Ghana.
Again, it is suggested that the mining companies and government should

assist the jewellery association by way of sourcing funding for them to set
up training institutions to train jewellers. The Metals section of KNUST,
and the College of Jewellery at Weija are examples of such training
institutes. This is necessary because unlike the Metals Section of KNUST
and the College of Jewellery at Weija, those without basic academic
qualification can be trained in the suggested institutions. Also, this will
make it easier for the neighbouring countries to come and learn from the
proposed institutions to enable Ghana earn more foreign exchange by way
of paying tuition and other fees in foreign currency. In South Africa for
example therefore, their Goldsmith Training Project forms part of their
initiatives of focusing on skills transfer with other countries in Africa. The
artisans in West Africa have specialised knowledge in traditional African
goldsmithing techniques and have practical technical skills combined with
a distinctive sense of African design. These West African techniques have
provided South African trainees with significant opportunities to be
268
exposed to the know-how required for small jewellery operators with low
capital
base
structures.
This
assists
disadvantaged
jewellery
manufacturers in South Africa to enter the mainstream market. The

programme also assists such individuals with design facilities, marketing
and logistical support. Anglogold Ashanti has also sponsored a second
jewellery workshop in Soweto, which would allow the enrolment of
jewellery learners. The school programme offers a two-year jewellerymanufacturing course for the purposes of fast-tracking unskilled,
unemployed and inexperienced youths into jewellery and craft
manufacturing. On completion of the programme, they may enter the
industry as employees of established manufacturers, start their own
ventures or enrol for further study at universities of technology. It is
suggested that Ghana will take a cue from South Africa.
5.7 Exchange of human and technology resources

Another suggestion as written earlier on is the exchange of human and
technology resources. South Africa has already taken the initiative in its
Goldsmith Training Programme in South Africa, which has resulted in
AngloGold Ashanti sponsoring an accomplished Ghanaian goldsmith,
David Apim Tetteh, to give training in traditional West African jewellery
making techniques such as gold-foiling, granulation, filigree, and
269
embossing, during the Mining Week, held by the Department of Minerals

and Energy, at Electra Mining Africa 2004 at Nasrec. This was the first
time the company has brought a goldsmith from Ghana to South Africa to
offer such a training programme. Jewellery students from seven
institutions based in five South African provinces attended the weeklong
goldsmithing workshop. The majority of the students were from
community-based jewellery training institutions. Students were expected
to produce pieces of jewellery that incorporated West African and
contemporary South African design idioms during the workshop. The
pieces were manufactured using techniques such as filigree, chain making
and gold leafing, learnt during the programme. A workshop bench and
tools were awarded to the most promising student at an awards evening.
5.8 Gold jewellery information handbook

It is further suggested that, individuals, corporate bodies and the
government through the Ghana Export Promotion Council, should initiate
the making of an information handbook as has been done in South Africa.
This is because since there is no readily available information on jewellery,
and in its bid to encourage beneficiation of minerals in South Africa
therefore, a sourcebook of reference that will consolidate information on
all relevant aspects of the jewellery and gold business was embarked
270
upon, and it served as a necessary resource for gold beneficiation

strategies and initiatives in South Africa. South Africa before this
handbook project did not have any comprehensive source of basic
information on the local gold value chain. In 2004 therefore, Anglogold
Ashanti, in partnership with the World Gold Council, the South African
Departments of Trade and Industry, Minerals and Energy and the
Industrial Development Corporation embarked on a research project to
address this information vacuum. The Ghana government can also in a
bilateral agreement, partner South Africa in reviewing the handbook and
make it officially available to Ghanaians. This will help in solving certain
problems in the industry and thus improve on the quality of the products
and therefore increase sales.
The key purpose of the reference handbook project will be that the content
will cover all industry sectors from mining and refining to retailing of
gold products. The handbook will include information on how the gold
industry operates at each level, on gold supply and demand, on volumes
fabricated and consumed for export and domestic consumption, on
indicative product pricing and margins, and on social and economic
issues relevant to various parts of the gold industry. It is expected that the
reference material will enable government and industry players to devise
271
effective beneficiation strategies in the industry and identify opportunities

for further development. The handbook would be expected to be updated
annually. It is my suggestion again therefore that Ghana, with assistance
from the multinationals should partner South Africa because of Ghanas
former Ashanti Goldfield Companys merger with South Africas
Anglogold to form Anglogold Ashanti, or produce a similar handbook on
the jewellery industry. Another alternative is for Ghana to liaise with
other African countries to produce such a handbook instead of each
African country trying to produce such a handbook at a high cost.
It is further suggested that the annual jewellery exhibitions to provide a
platform for jewellers to showcase their new designs should be
reintroduced. The gold jewellers used to produce annual exhibitions that
were very beneficial to them. Presently, it is only the Ghana Bead society
that holds annual exhibitions. During these exhibitions, a number of
enquiries are received at the stands and substantial orders are generated
and manufactured.
Jewellery design trainees will also benefit from exhibitions in the
following ways:
i.
They will be able to showcase their African designs and hand

crafted products
272
ii.
They will be able to generate and secure sales
iii.
It will introduce new learners to the Ghanaian jewellery industry
iv.
It will provide final year students opportunities for employment.
In line with the above suggestions the College of jewellery in Weija

organised such an exhibition in October 2004, whiles the Metals section of
the Department of Industrial Art of the College of Art and Social Sciences
also organised an exhibition in Kumasi at Alliance Franoise in 2004. Such
exhibitions by trainees if sustained and organised annually, as suggested
will go a long way to improve on the performance of the industry, since it
is the trainees who are being exposed to the benefits of networking
firsthand.
One other suggestion this writer offers for the solving of some of the many
problems facing the industry is that, the government must encourage the
exploitation of precious and semi-precious gemstone deposits in the
country to the full through the localisation of gemstone cutting and
polishing. By so doing, it will save foreign exchange used in importing
such gemstones. It will also be a source of the numerous unemployed
youth of this country. Ghana could also export some of these gemstones to
other countries to get foreign money.
273
5.9 Formation of National Jewellery Council

It is also the suggestion of the researcher that the government must form a
National Jewellery Council comprising experts in the jewellery industry
and academia. The following are also recommended to be members of the
Jewellery Council if formed. Representatives of the Ghana Chamber of
mines, the Ministry of Trade and Industry, the financial institutions,
Ghana Standards Board, Ministry of Education, and the Ministry of
Employment and Manpower Development. The Council must formulate a
national policy with regard to quality, standards licensing, manpower and
training. It will also oversee the development of the foreign and local
market of the industry, and the general policy direction and framework
for the jewellery industry.
The proposed council when formed must operate along the lines of the
Pharmacy Council which regulates the pharmacy practice in Ghana, or the
Medical and Dental Council which also regulates the operations of
medical practitioners in the country. The Jewellers Council of Ghana
therefore will also regulate the work of jewellers in Ghana.
274
5.10 Costing and pricing of jewellery products

Mainly, the jewellery industry in Ghana, as written earlier in chapter four
does not apply strict business principles in its work, and this has led to
low sales and its associated low profit. This is because the prices in most
cases are set high, or unrealistic, and thus account for the low sales and
profit. One of such business principles that must not be overlooked is
costing, and another is pricing. For the purposes of this thesis, both will be
treated differently.
One of the underlying factors, or guiding principles, in costing is to know

the production cost of manufactured goods and services. Before this can
be done, we need to understand the different types of cost and how costs
behave when production levels or activity levels change.
For example in cost accounting, costs like manufacturing, administrative,

selling, distribution and marketing, and possibly research costs can be
analysed to enable jewellers in the jewellery industry to take decisions on
any inefficient or wasteful spending. Since the owner managers operate
most jewellery shops themselves, there are no effective cost control
measures. Money is spent anyhow, unlike a business in which we have a
production manager who will be held responsible for production costs
and the sales manager for selling costs.
275
Quoting from my previous thesis, and also as I mentioned in chapter four

of this thesis, the various types of pricing are as follows:
a) Cost based
- Accountants approach
b) Market demand based - Economists approach

c) Competition based
- The traders approach
d) Market based
- Based on value satisfaction
But in this work the bases for pricing will be discussed, so that,
throughout the discussion, the pricing problems associated with the
jewellery industry may be solved.
In order to have a good price, it must be stated that price setting starts
with pricing objectives. There are varieties of possible objectives, and
these can be summarised as follows:
- Sales objectives
- Profit objectives
- Competitive objectives.
276
The sales objective could be sales growth, sales maintenance or just to sell
at a breakeven price. Regarding the breakeven prices, the volume of total
sales revenue is equal to total cost; there is no profit or loss. If the objective
of the jeweller is to have a growth in sales, then this writer will suggest
that jewellers can achieve this objective through price reduction. The price
of jewellery in Ghana is high compared to other West African countries.
Whiles a gram of 18ct gold jewellery costs an average of 350,000cedis in
Ghana as at 31st December, 2006, the same weight costs about 250,000cedis
equivalent in Mali, Togo, Cote-dIvoire and Senegal, to mention a few.
Tourists though they appreciate our products, buy more from our
neighbouring countries than from Ghana. For a sales growth, it must also
be noted that higher sales revenue does not automatically produce higher
profits. Sometimes, jewellers expect that an increase in unit sales will tend
to reduce cost per unit but however, in most cases it will be found that the
expense of increasing sales volume outweighs saving in unit cost.
Some firms also price their jewelleries just to maintain sales. This is the
case of most bead sellers this writer interviewed. They realise that sales
growth and expansion bring complexity, greater responsibility and more
problems, in that more outlets will have to be secured and paid for and
more staff employed to do the sales, and as pointed out earlier, the cost of
277
sales as against revenue may be negative. Jewellers who aim at profit

could do that through cost reduction and market maintenance, which
mean that they are just maintaining their market share or a penetrating
price. The price charged for products and services is set artificially low in
order to gain market share. Once this is achieved, the price is increased.
Scancom Ghana Ltd., operators of Areeba mobile telecom used this
approach in order to attract new clients when it first started operations in
Ghana. Jewellery companies can also use this when they are new entrants.
They will therefore be charging an economy price. This means they will be
selling their products at very low price. The cost of marketing and
manufacture is kept at a minimum. In this case, the price objective is
simply just survival. Jewellery companies and jewellers that find it
difficult to compete may drop their prices to generate the cash needed to
pay bills and stay in business. They will do so with the hope that
conditions will change and allow them to regain a firm position in the
market place. Cost pressure from competitor importers who import
jewellery at very cheap prices from say, Dubai, China or Thailand, has
made it difficult for jewellers to maximise profit. The writer therefore calls
on the government to protect the local jewellery producer by passing the
necessary legislations reducing taxes. By so doing the jewellers and
goldsmiths will have adequate return on investment. Pricing objectives
should also emphasise cash flow as well as profits; this is to say therefore
278
that jewellers should not only think of selling, but to make good profit as
well. This again involves generating cash as fast as possible and
maintaining a steady flow of cash. To generate more cash therefore,
jewellers may have to prune product lines and then lower the prices of
their jewellery. Pearl Jewellery Ltd., which is my company, has adopted
this strategy to increase sales and profit. Pearl Jewellery now produces
more of marriage rings, i.e. wedding and engagement rings that comprise
about 90% of its sales. Another pricing strategy that the writer
recommends is to consciously price jewellery to prevent competition.
Most competitors look up to the leader in setting prices. In Ghana, it is
assumed that PMMC is the market leader, and it is therefore a good
suggestion especially for new jewellery shops to enter the market with
extremely low prices to discourage other jewellers from entering. Even
though PMMC is government owned, the government has not used its
position to regulate their prices to their advantage. This is probably
because jewellery is considered as a luxury good unlike products like
water and electricity where regulatory bodies are set up to regulate its
prices and use. Prices therefore are set in a way as to offset the effect of
competitors actions, especially those who import jewellery, and in most
cases smuggle them into the country. As said earlier, cost associated with
bringing a product to the market are crucial factors in setting prices,
because prices that are set below costs yield no profits. Pricing to promote
279
a product is a very common application that jewellers can also use. There
are many examples of promotional pricing including approaches such as
BOGOF (Buy One Get One Free).
At this juncture, it is still reiterated that the survival of the jewellery
industry greatly depends on successful costing and pricing policy. It is
therefore necessary to write a bit more suggestion on costing and pricing
of jewellery. It is helpful for jewellers to examine other cost related
approaches to price setting. For example, jewellers can use a simple
formula to arrive at a price list
Price
= Material cost
+ Direct labour cost
+ 100% of direct labour cost (to cover overheads)
+ 120 to 180 percent of direct labour cost (to cover all other costs and provide for
profit.)
+ 12.5% Value Added Tax
+ 2.5% NHIL
= Selling Price
This model of pricing is used on the assumption that it would cover all
costs and leave at least some profit. This approach ensures that all costs
will be covered and the desired profit achieved. The disadvantage of this
approach however is that it fails to ensure that quantity of output
produced will be sold, since the jeweller cannot know whether the price is
280
in line with consumers perception of the value of the product. This type
of pricing however have a lot of advantages because it is easy to calculate
it since it is based on a formula. Price increases are also justified, and it
avoids the cost of getting information about the state of the jewellery
demand. It can also produce a stable price so long as the cost centres in the
formula do not change. It is interesting to note that when the above
formula is applied to 18ct gold jewellery pricing, we realise that the retail
price mentioned as the retail price of 18ct gold jewellery in the country
and neighbouring countries is far lower than double. This implies that
without proper costing, jewellers who produce 18ct gold jewellery are
under pressure due to competition to sell at a loss. It, however, works
perfectly well for jewellery of 9ct that unfortunately is not mainly
produced in Ghana. Using the formula to price beads, brass and costume
jewellery will be very rewarding.
It is suggested therefore that jewellers whether they have production or

sales managers, or they manage their businesses themselves jewellers
must try not only to be cost effective, but also cost efficient. For the
jewellery industry to be cost efficient, therefore, managers will again have
to look at the direct and indirect costs of producing a piece of jewellery.
The direct costs are expenditures that can be directly identified with the
cost of producing the item, like materials such as gold dust for producing
281
gold jewellery or broken bottles for bead making. The cost of labour used
directly in the production of the jewellery can also be classified as direct
cost. The indirect labour costs of a product are the costs of labour that
does not spend a measurable amount of time directly on making the
product. Watchmans wages, managers salary, electricity bill not directly
associated with the production of the jewellery are examples of indirect
cost. During the research and collection of information for this thesis, it
came to light that costs are not well classified and thus makes the
production of jewellery seem more expensive than it should. If this is not
done, costs that should be apportioned to both production and sales may
be apportioned to only one cost centre. Some costs may even be omitted
altogether and therefore give a wrong operational cost.
The researchers recommendation on pricing especially on high carat gold

jewellery therefore is that jewellers should use the demand based strategy.
This is either priced on prestige or what this researcher will call
discriminatory pricing strategy. A market challenger can launch a higherquality product and charge a higher price than the market leader (Kotler,
2003:268). In the case of prestige pricing strategy for example, a product
like high carat gold jewellery, when it is priced high it may bring higher
sales volumes. Consumers believe higher prices indicate higher quality. In
prestige pricing it must be noted that it goes complimentary to
282
discriminatory pricing strategy that makes jewellers often modify basic

prices to accommodate differences in customers product and location etc.
Discrimination pricing, therefore, takes into consideration the customer
segment. Discrimination pricing also considers the image, location and
timing, say during high season.
Premium pricing which is not very different from prestige pricing uses a
high price where there is uniqueness about the product or service. This
approach is used where a substantial competitive advantage exists. Such
high prices are charged for luxury products such as jewellery or certain
fine art works. Jewellers including Goldsmiths can also use a pricing
strategy called price skimming, which means that they can charge a high
price because they have a substantial competitive advantage. However,
the advantage is not sustainable. The high price tends to attract new
competitors into the market, and the price inevitably falls due to increased
supply. Millicom Ghana Limited dealers in mobitel phones used a
skimming approach in the 1990s to charge high price. Once other
manufacturers realize you are making good profit they may be tempted to
enter the market and even produce at a lower unit cost, and adopt other
marketing strategies and new pricing approaches.
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5.11 Jewellery Marketing Research Centre

Managers of jewellery shops and centres need information in order to
introduce products and services that create value in the mind of the
customer. But the perception of value is a subjective one, and what a
customer may value this year may be quite different from what they value
next year. As such, the attributes that create value cannot simply be
deduced from common knowledge. Rather, data must be collected and
analysed. The goal of marketing research therefore is to provide the facts
and direction that managers need to make their more important
marketing decisions. To maximize the benefit of marketing research in the
jewellery industry therefore, there is the need to set up a marketing
research centre. It must be emphasised that those who will be in charge of
this centre need to understand the research process and its limitations.
They must also be experts in International business and marketing.
The Jewellery marketing Research Centre must be able to provide
information that can be useful to the jewellery industry as a whole. In
general, the value of information according to Kotler (2003:268) is
determined by:
284
i.
The ability and willingness to act on the information.
ii. The accuracy of the information.

iii. The level of indecisiveness that would exist without the
information.
iv. The amount of variation in the possible results.
v. The level of risk aversion.
vi. The reaction of competitors to any decision improved by the
information.
vii.The cost of the information in terms of time and money.
5.11.1 The Marketing Research Process

Once the need for marketing research has been established, most
marketing research projects involve these steps:
1. Define the problem
2. Determine research design
3. Identify data types and sources
4. Design data collection forms and questionnaires
5. Determine sample plan and size
6. Collect the data
7. Analyse and interpret the data
8. Prepare the research report
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5.11.2 Marketing Problem Definition

The decision problem faced by management of jewellery firms must be
translated into a market research problem in the form of questions that
define the information that is required to make the decision and how this
information can be obtained. Thus, the decision problem is translated into
a research problem. For example, a decision problem may be whether to
launch a new jewellery product. Another decision problem may also be
whether to under-cut price in the light of competition. The corresponding
research problem might be to assess whether the market would accept the
new product.
The objective of the research should be defined clearly. To ensure that the
true decision problem is addressed, it is useful for the researcher to
outline possible scenarios of the research results and then for the decision
maker to formulate plans of action under each scenario. The use of such
scenarios can ensure that the purpose of the research is agreed upon
before it commences.
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5.11.3 Marketing Research Design

The Jewellery Marketing Research Centre must also take note of the fact
that marketing research can be classified in one of three categories:
i.
Exploratory research: This is a valuable means of finding out

what is happening, or to seek new insights, or to ask questions
and to assess phenomena in a new light (Robson, 1993:42). They
are particularly useful if you wish to clarify your understanding
of a problem. Exploratory research can be likened to the
activities of the traveller or explorer.
ii. Descriptive research: The objective of a descriptive research is to
portray an accurate profile of persons, events or situations

(Robson, 1993:4)
iii. Causal research
These classifications are made according to the objective of the research. In

some cases the research will fall into one of these categories, but in other
cases different phases of the same research project will fall into different
categories. The jewellery research centre when established therefore must
study the different stages of the research before deciding on which to use.
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5.11.4 Questionnaire Design

The questionnaire is an important tool for gathering primary data. Poorly
constructed questions by the proposed jewellery research centre can result
in large errors and invalidate the research data that will be generated at
the centre, so significant effort should be put into the questionnaire
design. The questionnaire should be tested thoroughly prior to conducting
the survey. Marketing research by itself does not arrive at marketing
decisions, nor does it guarantee that the jewellery firms will be successful
in marketing their jewellery products. However, when conducted in a
systematic, analytical, and objective manner, marketing research can
reduce the uncertainty in the decision-making process and increase the
probability and magnitude of success in the jewellery industry.
5.12 PEST Analysis
PEST analysis deals with the political, economic, social and technological
forces in the successful operation of a business, or in short the micro and
macro conditions. PEST analysis as regards the jewellery industry is very
important in that it will make the jewellery industry consider its
environment before beginning the marketing and production processes. It
is after the PEST analysis has been carried out that an effective SWOT
analysis can also be done. In my previous work, a SWOT analysis was
carried out and it considered the strength, weaknesses, opportunities and
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threats of the jewellery industry. In this work, it will be carried out again,
but after the discussion of the PEST analysis.
In fact, environmental
analysis on the jewellery industry should be continuous and feed all

aspects of planning. The jewellery industrys production and marketing
environment is made up from:
1. The internal environment e.g. staff (or internal customers), office
technology, wages, finance, etc.
2. The microenvironment e.g. our external customers, agents and
distributors, suppliers, our competitors, etc.
3. It is necessary now to also offer suggestions and recommendations
basing them on the macro-environment e.g. Political (and legal) forces,
Economic forces, Socio-cultural forces, and Technological forces. These are
known as PEST factors.
5.12.1 Political Factors
The political arena has a huge influence upon the regulation of the
jewellery business, and the spending power of consumers and other
businesses. Political factors include government regulations and legal
issues and define both formal and informal rules under which the firm
must operate. Some examples include:
289
i.
tax policy
ii.
employment laws
iii. environmental regulations

iv. trade restrictions and tariffs
v.
political stability
It must be noted generally that there is political stability in the country.

For example, during electioneering campaigning, advertising companies
make a lot of advertisements appealing for votes of candidates. Both print
and electronic media make plenty of money by way of these adverts. They
therefore are in a position to buy a lot of items including jewellery.
Ghanaian jewellers can also produce or cast the metal badges used by the
political parties during campaigning times, and thereby making more
sales. Also, during electioneering periods, politicians dash out a lot of
money to the electorate to enable them win their votes, but because of the
general poor income levels in the country, such monies are mainly used to
buy food, and pay school fees, though a few may use it to buy jewellery.
It is my suggestion also that jewellery companies must advertise and
expose themselves more, so that in the cause of other companies
promoting their businesses, they could use jewellery, say beads or brass
casting as some of the prizes of their sales promotion. If jewellery
companies heed to the suggestion to step up advertisement in the
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jewellery industry and disregard the notion probably that cost of

advertising is high, during special occasions like Christmas or Valentine
days, Mothers days or Fathers days during which other businesses
capitalise on advertisements and sell their products, jewellery companies
will also register very high sales.
Certain government policies have affected businesses including the
jewellery industry. For example, the Value Added Tax and National
Health Insurance Levy of 12.5% and 2.5% respectively tend to make the
price of jewellery very high. This tax, VAT for short, is a tax on
consumption expenditure, collected in little bits at the various stages in
the production-distribution chain. This means that, at importation,
manufacturing, wholesale and retail levels, at each stage, VAT is levied on
the value added and not the full value of the product. By the VAT law, it
is obligatory for all manufacturers, sellers and service providers whose
turnover does not exceed 100 million cedis in twelve months, or 25 million
cedis in three months are by law, eligible to register. It must be noted that
VAT is not a tax on business expenses. Therefore registered businesses
that pay VAT on purchases and expenses are to request for VAT invoices
showing the amount of VAT paid to enable them reclaim these taxes. In
practise however, these refunds are difficult to claim. Even though most
goldsmiths and other jewellers have not registered to collect the tax, they
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are indirectly affected because some of the inputs for the manufacturing of
the jewellery products are imported and the tax is collected at the port of
entry. This writer recommends that in order to make jewellery products
competitive, jewellers who produce for export or sell a greater percentage
of their jewellery to tourists and earn foreign money for the country,
should be exempted from VAT. As an incentive for businessmen to invest
in the jewellery industry, so as to produce more for the local market and
also for export, government should, as a policy, make laws to regulate and
ease the payment of tax on jewellery businesses. Government could grant
say five years tax holidays for people who open new businesses in the
jewellery sector. A jeweller, who produces on a very small scale, should be
exempted from not only VAT, but also, other forms of taxes. This is
because the income derived from their businesses, if proper records are
kept, would point to the fact that they would have been tax exempt. The
daily minimum wage of 16,000 cedis is tax exempt, and small-scale
jewellers who also earn about four hundred thousand cedis net income in
one month, in my opinion should equally be exempted.
The government's position on marketing ethics is very liberal, and it has
therefore facilitated the activities of agencies like the Association of Ghana
Industries (AGI) or Empretec Ghana that can source funding from nongovernmental organisations like DANIDA for the subsidising of the
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writing of a marketing plan. According to Mr. Saeed Brobbey, the Ashanti

Regional Manager of the National Board for Small Scale Industries, the
government has tasked this agency to identify and assist in writing
business proposals for assistance to be given to businesses that are
potentially viable but lack the necessary funding for marketing their
products. But unfortunately, according to Mr. Saeed Brobbey, of all the
companies that have been identified in Ashanti Region, only one bead
producer was selected. This writer therefore suggests to jewellers to
contact the government agencies for the necessary financial assistance.
The problem, however, is that since some of the jewellery firms operate on
a very small scale, even if they contact the agencies, they might not be
selected. This writer however suggested to the regional manager to
propose to the government to consider the micro industries like the
jewellery firms that could form or strengthen their associations so as to
benefit from such assistance. With the government's policy on running a
trade liberal economy, if Ghanaian jewellers do not position themselves
well, it would be difficult for them to face global competition.
Since the 1992 Constitution of Ghana guarantees religious and cultural
freedom, and with the springing up of numerous churches and the
governments promotion of tourism and its associated festivals, this writer
suggests that jewellers take advantage of such festivals to produce more
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jewellery for sale. Items like neck beads, bangles, and other forms of
jewellery used by chiefs during festivals or by young girls during dipo
ritual celebrations in Krobo in Ghana, could be produced in greater
quantities for some to be sold to tourists as souvenirs and thereby increase
the sale of jewellery. Even though certain religious groups do not wear,
jewellery, most do, and with proper marketing campaign there could be
the increase in sale of certain religious jewellery like the cross, or wedding
rings.
The government of Ghana is involved in trading agreements with
countries and unions such as European Union, African Union, ECOWAS
or others. These multilateral trade agreements when taken advantage of
could be of benefit to not only the country, but to solving some of the
numerous problems of the jewellery industry, like say with the ECOWAS
treaty of free movement of people, skilled goldsmiths or jewellers say
from Senegal, Mali or from Togo could be brought into the country on
exchange programmes to teach their Ghanaian counterparts certain skills
in the industry. The College of Jewellery in Weija recruited a Togolese, by
name Fo Koku Amouzou to teach filigree and granulation techniques.
According to the Principal, it was beneficial to the College. Ghana enjoys
favoured nation status with the USA in terms of the African Growth and
Opportunity Act of 2000 (AGOA) which allows Ghana and other selected
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African countries to open their economies and build free markets by

exporting specified products including jewellery to the USA free of import
duties. These incentives are to encourage trade between African countries
and the USA by eliminating duties and introducing quotas in specified
products. This provides Ghanaian jewellery manufacturers with a cost
advantage over their European and Far East competitors on whom a 6%
duty is levied for jewellery products exported to the USA. In 2004, 62% of
South African jewellery exports were destined for the USA partly as a
result of AGOA. 5 Under the AGOA trade protocol agreement with the
United States of America, Ghana has not identified jewellery as one of the
unspecified quota free products to be exported to the United States of
America. The emphasis of the Ghana Government has been on the Textile
and Garment industries, but since jewellery is also included in the
products, I suggest that the Federation of Ghanaian Jewellers and the
Ghana Bead Society among others must lobby the Ministry of Trade and
Industry to be given attention and support like the textile and garment
industry. Institutions like the Commonwealth Secretariat and USAID have
supported the jewellery industry in the past. Also, the commonwealth
secretariat supported the redesigning of Ghanaian jewellery for the export
market by sponsoring an expert, Dr Theja Hathiarachi, as I wrote in my
previous work, and the USAID has sponsored numerous jewellery
5
www.goldinsouthafrica.com
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exhibitions in the country. These have helped boost up sales and it is the
suggestion of the writer that contacts should still be made with these
institutions to still support the jewellery industry so as to increase sales.
5.12.2 Economic Factors
Economic factors affect the purchasing power of potential customers and
the firm's cost of capital. The following are examples of factors in the
macro economy:
i.
economic growth
ii. interest rates

iii. exchange rates
iv. inflation rate
Jewellers need to consider the state of a trading economy in the short and
long-terms. This is necessary when planning for international jewellery
marketing. You need to look at the interest rates prevailing at the banks;
jewellers also need to know what type of banking facilities that exist at the
banks and tailor it to suit their requirements. For example, there are banks
specifically for promoting the needs of agriculture like the Agriculture
Development Bank, or National Investment Bank that specifically is for
investment. There are others like the Standard Chartered Bank, Barclays
Bank or the Ghana Commercial Bank. The good news about the banks in
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Ghana these days is that because of keen competition, they have, among
other innovative ideas, opened special departments to cater for the smallscale business sector. I recommend therefore that before a jeweller opens
an account with a bank, he should find out what services it has to offer as
far as its business growth is concerned. He should also get to know the
Manager and his Customer Services Manager. This is necessary because
when they get to know the jeweller, when there are any services like
seminar or business promotion exercises he could be contacted, and thus
help improve upon his business. For instance, Stanbic Bank Ghana
Limited sponsors some businessmen to trade shows in South Africa
annually. This writer could not honour an invitation from Stanbic Bank
Ghana Limited to attend such a trade show in South Africa. Even though I
was not able to honour the invitation because of time constraint, those
who attended said it was beneficial for improving their businesses
especially, they were exposed to new equipment in the industry. Barclays
Bank has also played a major role in promoting the small-scale business
sector. In September 2005, it organised a days seminar for its customers in
Kumasi on Risk Management. The facilitator was Mr. J. Magnus
Frimpong, a senior lecturer of the KNUST School of Business. According
to Mr J. M. Frimpong, an evaluation after the seminar revealed that their
customers benefited from the seminar, and would want it to be an annual
affair.
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On interest rates, interest rates on loans used to be 35%. Presently, the rate
of interest on bank loan is an average of 22%. Even though it is better than
it formally was, it is still considered high. This means that with the
already present high cost of tariffs and bills, it will be expensive to run a
jewellery production on a loan or overdraft. There are institutions like
Unique Trust Financial Services that give out loans within 48 hours, but it
charges 8% per month. I recommend however that using a bank loan
should be a last resort. When intending to use a bank loan however,
jewellers must prepare a projected cash flow, and the money when
granted, should be used for the intended purpose only. Jewellers also
have the advantage of most customers paying deposit for their orders.
Jewellers should insist on at least 60% deposit on placing an order. By this,
jewellers have the advantage of the customer pre-financing the order.
5.12.3 Socio-cultural Factors

Social factors include the demographic and cultural aspects of the external
macro environment. These factors affect customer needs and the size of
potential markets. Some social factors include:
298
i.
health consciousness
ii.
population growth rate
iii.
age distribution
iv.
career attitudes
v.
emphasis on safety
This researcher further suggests that the socio-cultural influences on the

jewellery business in Ghana which vary from region to region or certain
segments of the region must be taken into consideration when designing
and producing jewellery so as to register high sales. For example, certain
Christians because of their belief may prefer to buy a cross pendant to a
Gye Nyame pendant. The Roman Catholics also will buy the rosary.
Christian marriages also use the wedding rings. It is very important that
such factors are considered. The factors include what the dominant
religion is and what their attitudes are towards the use of jewellery
products. One must also consider if the different cultures have any impact
on the production and sale of jewellery. The age of the population and
their sex distribution must also be considered.
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5.12.4 Technological Factors

Technological factors can lower barriers to entry, reduce minimum
efficient production levels, and influence outsourcing decisions. Some
technological factors include:
i.
Research and Development activity
ii. automation
iii. technology incentives
iv. rate of technological change
High technology is vital if the local jewellery industry should have a

competitive advantage over the imported and cheaper jewellery, since it is
a major driver of globalisation. Hi technology allows for jewellery
products to be made more cheaply and to have a better standard of
quality. But in Ghana, as pointed out earlier, the mode of production is
still dominantly hand crafted using old and dilapidated tools and
equipment. Technologies offer consumers and businesses more innovative
products and services such as Internet banking, new generation mobile
telephones, etc, but in the jewellery industry, it is not so. Modern
technology in the enterprise of jewellery making has remained largely
untapped in Ghana over the years. (Ghanaian Times 14683Nov 17 2005)
Jewellers in the country therefore have evolved unique handcrafting
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techniques for executing their traditional jewellery and ornaments. It is

therefore not surprising that jewellery making in Ghana is perceived by
many as an ordinary traditional craft. While traditional know-how is
indispensable, the reality is that in many parts of the world, jewellery has
become a major commodity whose production requires modern
technological inputs. Modern trends in jewellery production have
completely revolutionalised jewellery making especially for the mass
market, to the extent that it is no more globally competitive to operate
solely in the craft mode as obtains in Ghana. The role of technology in all
aspects of jewellery production cannot be overemphasised. Whiles
computer aided design and manufacturing have enhanced the jewellery
production of the developed world, with software that can now even
interface designing with manufacture, of which the Ghanaian jewellery
industry must take advantage of, we in Ghana still use traditional
jewellery making techniques and obsolete equipment, and therefore incur
high production losses and costs. As the solution to some of the above
problems so as to make the Ghanaian jewellery industry have the
necessary impact on the national economy, the government and its
collaborated agencies, both private and governmental, must liaise with the
mining companies, to import the necessary raw materials and inputs such
as acids, chemicals, borax, saw-blades electroplating solutions etc for the
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industry. Also, the government can impose a levy on the mining

companies to aid the jewellery industry in Ghana.
5.13 SWOT Analysis of the Ghanaian jewellery industry
A SWOT analysis is an analysis of an organisation or industrys strengths
and weaknesses alongside the opportunities and threats present in the
external environment (Thompson, 2004:1128). As written earlier, it is
necessary to recast the SWOT analysis carried out in my previous work
with current information where necessary.
5.13.1 Strengths
There is now, the National Youth Employment Programme, which enables
the youth to train in any employable trade of their choice, including
jewellery. Some youth have enrolled with masters to learn bead-making
and others goldsmithing. The jewellery industry is also fortunate to have
the College of Jewellery established to increase the manpower needs of the
industry. The intake into the School is on Regional basis, and this means
that when the trainees graduate they will go back to their regions to set up
their businesses. The curriculum of the college of jewellery is such that it is
70% of practical work. This gives the students enough of practical
training. The metal section of the Department of Industrial Art now runs a
programme in Jewellery up to the Masters level, unlike previously where
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students graduated in metal work. In my previous work, page 206, I

recommended that the graduates from the metals section of the Faculty of
Industrial Art of KNUST must have the option to specialise in jewellery
production and sales. They should also go on industrial attachment
during their holidays to have practical experience. By the end of their
training they would be exposed to equipment not in their section, and
they would also be better equipped to face the challenges of the industry,
and thus help the industry to develop.
5.13.2 Weakness
In the previous work we identified the following as the weaknesses. That
the industry suffered from inadequate money capital and as a result the
production techniques used are not as good as they should be. This is due
to the fact that modern equipment is not being used by the firms in the
industry because of their weak financial base. The quality of the finished
products depends on the quality of machinery used. We also identified
that the high cost of raw material has made the firms to produce under
capacity. This is because the jewellery firms are not able to buy enough
raw materials to also produce a wide range of designs. The range of
designs of jewellery produced by the jewellers in Ghana, as written earlier
is also limited.
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5.13.3 Opportunities
There is a wide market for jewellery both locally and internationally. In
Ghana, almost everybody especially females have a piece of jewellery on
as part of their dressing. Chiefs also use jewellery as part of their regalia.
During festivals, all sorts of jewellery are used, and the type of jewellery
used shows the social and economic status of the person. A lot of tourists
and foreigners who visit the country also buy at least a piece of Ghanaian
jewellery as souvenir.
5.13.4 Threats
Not withstanding the numerous opportunities, there are also certain
threats that affect the industry. In my previous work we mentioned that
the general low income of the population is a great threat to the industry.
Most people instead of buying high karat gold jewellery would settle for a
low karat one, because they cannot afford the price of high karat jewellery.
In this current work, we have identified the activity of smugglers as also a
big threat to the growth and development of the industry. Because of the
small size of jewellery, traders are able to smuggle quantities of the
jewellery into the country without paying the necessary taxes. They are
therefore able to sell at very low prices and thus make customers buy
theirs instead of the ones produced locally. Another threat is that cheap
imported imitation jewellery are brought in by traders from Dubai or
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China, and sold at almost the price of gold. Lastly, there is also the
perception that goods made in Ghana are of inferior quality. Ghanaians
have a taste for foreign goods, and this is a threat to goods produces in the
country.
5.14 Effect of HIV/AIDS on the production and sale of jewellery

Before writing on the effects of HIV/AIDS on the jewellery industry in
Ghana, it is necessary to define and write on what it is all about. AIDS
stands for Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome. It is a disease caused
by Human Immunodeficiency Virus or HIV. It acts by weakening the
immune system, making the body susceptible to and unable to recover
from other diseases. Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV) is the virus
that causes Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome (AIDS). HIV destroys
the biological ability of the human body to fight off opportunistic
infections such as pneumonia and tuberculosis (TB). A person can be
infected with HIV for a long time without showing any symptoms of the
disease. Nonetheless, during that period before a person develops
symptoms, he or she can transmit the infection through sexual contact to
other people. An infected woman can also transmit the disease to her
infant during pregnancy or delivery or while breastfeeding. HIV can also
305
be spread by transfusions of contaminated blood and by sharing needles

used for injections and drug use. AIDS itself is defined in terms of how
much deterioration of the immune system has taken place as seen by the
presence of opportunistic infections. Virtually all infected persons die
from the disease. As at now, there is no known cure for AIDS.
In Ghana, an individual is said to have developed AIDS when he or she
presents with a combination of signs and symptoms and has a positive
HIV antibody test. These are grouped into major and minor signs and
symptoms. The major signs and symptoms include:
i.
Prolonged fever.
ii.
Prolonged and chronic diarrhoea
iii.
Significant weight loss
The minor signs and symptoms include:

i.
Persistent cough
ii.
Persistent skin infection
iii.
Aggressive skin cancer
iv.
Oral thrush
v.
Recurrent Shingles (Ananse)
vi.
Enlargement of the lymph glands
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It is said that any individual with two of these major signs and symptoms
and two of the minor signs and symptoms plus a positive HIV antibody
test is said to have the disease AIDS.
From what we have written so far on AIDS, it can be seen that it is not
only a health issue, but a social, developmental and economical issue. The
impact has a huge repercussion on the production and sale of jewellery.
This is so because when workers in the jewellery industry are affected
with AIDS, it will lead to low productivity. According to Commonwealth
Rights Initiative Report (2001), The HIV epidemic adversely affects
growth rate in complex ways not only by killing off the most productive
in their prime. 6 When HIV/AIDS was first identified in Ghana in March
1986, the National rate of infection was 1.5%. Today, the prevalent rate is
3.6%. This is based only on reports from the health institutions in Ghana
which represents 30%. This is because in this country, majority of the
victims patronise the traditional health centres, prayer camps and others
do not report their illnesses due to the fear of stigma and discrimination.
The non-reported cases are therefore likely to be more than the reported
cases in Ghana. This means the prevalent rate of 3.6% in the country is
misleading because majority of the carriers of HIV infections are difficult
to be identified in the country. With such a high prevalent rate, workers,
6
http:/www.ghanaids.gov.gh/main/results_detail.asp?story_id=81
307
including jewellery workers, can contract the disease and this will lead to
frequent illness which will in turn result in low productivity. It will also
result in the employer spending more on hospital bills of their employees.
It has been reported that about 130 people in Ghana contract AIDS daily
and it is estimated that 125 people would die from the dreadful disease
daily by the year 2009 if the rate of infection continues at 3.6%. The
prevalent rate in the West Africa sub- region ranges from 5% to 11%.
According to the Ghana Aids Commission sources, 330,000 Ghanaians
within the age group of 15-49 years are living with HIV/AIDS. It will be
realised that the age group of 15-49 years is the working force in any
economy. This will therefore shift a lot of attention and change the buying
pattern of consumers. Instead of buying jewellery, they may be buying
drugs to sustain themselves.
The impact of HIV/AIDS on households, families and the Nation is

immense. The very fabric of Ghanaian society can tear apart because of
intense burden of suffering among individual families. For example, in
cases of prolonged illnesses, all family members have to bear the blunt of
caring. Businesses including jewellery businesses and society, suffers
when the most productive sector of society (human resources) as written
earlier, who are aged between 15years and 49years are lost to HIV/AIDS
related illnesses. The attention of purchases will shift from buying of
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jewellery to using the money to buy medicine. The Ministry of Health

projects that in the worst case scenario, the prevalence rate could increase
to 9.0% by 2014. AIDS deaths will definitely lead directly to a reduction in
the number of workers available, and less experienced workers replace
those who died, leading to lower productivity. A shortage of workers will
lead to high wages which will lead to higher domestic production costs.
This will also lead to reduced savings because of greater health care
expenditure and a loss of worker income can cause a significant drop in
savings and capital accumulation for buying of luxury goods like
jewellery.
Already, 160,000 children in Ghana have been orphaned by HIV/AIDS

(Ghana AIDS Commission). If care is not taken, more people would be
infected and additional children would be orphaned in the next five years.
Without the appropriate social and life skills, these children will not be
equipped as adults who would have learnt a trade including jewellery to
enable them drive the economic engine of Ghana and thus, making the
struggle for development and growth even tougher. The orphans might
not have any education to become responsible members of society; this
may lead them to become wayward citizens indulging in social vices like
drug taking, crime, prostitution etc. The loss of young adults in their
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productive years would affect Ghana overall economic performance in

agriculture, commerce and industry, including the jewellery industry.
It must also be noted that the majority of HIV/AIDS cases recorded in

Ghana and the world are females. This has serious social and economic
implications to the country as well. According to Professor Sakyi-Amoah
(Director of Ghana AIDS commission) commenting on the pandemic has
said that the high incidence among women in Ghana would affect the
governments policy of women in agriculture and other sectors of the
economy. This shift in government policy will definitely affect the
jewellery industry in terms of production and sales. For example
government may instead of promoting the growth of the micro and small
industries may now spend a lot of its budget allocation on health.
Speaking at the Golden Jubilee celebration of Opoku Ware Secondary in

Kumasi (2002), the President of Ghana, His Excellency John Agyekum
Kufour said that any investment individuals, parents, communities as
well as the nation make will not yield the expected results if We fail to
wake up to the challenges posed by the deadly HIV/AIDS pandemic. 7
http:/www.ghanaweb.com/GhanaHomePage/features/artikel.php?ID=30981
310
Professor Amoah (2002) has predicted that Ghanas rate of 3.6%

HIV/AIDS could go up if we fail to adopt more proactive measures. We
have to safeguard the future generation of Ghana from extinction.
Therefore, it cannot be over-emphasised that it requires active
involvement of all Ghanaians both at home and abroad to fight the killer
disease (HIV/AIDS) so that the youth can be in a healthy state to work
actively to increase production in all aspects of the economy including the
production of jewellery.
311
CHAPTER SIX
METHODOLOGY
6.0 Background
The methods for this work were adopted as appropriate methods to
achieve the objectives of the study. The methodology used in the
writing of this thesis includes a review of related literature, personal
interviews and discussions with both consumers and producers of
jewellery. Photographs, tables and graphs are also used to make points
clearer where necessary.
As noted in the first chapter, the narrative, descriptive, analytical and

interpretative methods are used where and when necessary. Answers
to questionnaires also serve a useful purpose as far as the methods of
approach are concerned.
The thesis is written in seven chapters, with the first chapter of the
thesis including the following: abstract, scope of work, statement of the
problem, limitations, objective, and reasons for writing, hypothesis,
and statement of assumption, methodology, and historical background
of jewellery production in Ghana. Chapter two reviews the related
312
literature on the thesis, i.e. the problems and solutions to the Ghanaian
jewellery industry.
The third chapter tackles the problems and solutions to the production
processes of the various forms of jewellery. It is discussed alongside
the production methods. Acquisitions of land for setting up the
workshop are also discussed in this chapter. Also discussed is the
problem of tools and equipment acquisition. The health implications of
not working in a clean environment are also tackled in the third
chapter.
The problems and solutions to the sale and marketing of jewellery are
discussed in chapter four of the thesis book. Packaging and product
display, and pricing are also among the contents of chapter four. The
various types of pricing are discussed in depth in the fourth chapter.
In chapter five are the discussions, while chapter six gives the
methodology. Chapter seven is the summary of the thesis, which is
then followed by the conclusion and finally the suggestions and
recommendations.
313
As stated earlier, with a review of existing literature related to the

thesis in the second chapter, a lot of problems were identified and
possible numerous solutions offered. Discussions, suggestions and
recommendations have been made after comparing and analysing the
data. Illustrations including photographic representations were also
included to make the study clearer. Personal interviews, discussions
with jewellers were conducted. Narrative, descriptive, analytical and
interpretive approaches were also used. Statistical data were provided
where necessary, and a lot of discussions have been made. Response to
questionnaires
from
consumers,
producers,
and
organisations
involved in the industry were used to complete the thesis.
In administering and introducing the questionnaire, it was necessary

to explain clearly and concisely why the respondent needed to
complete the survey, and in this regard, the simple random sampling
was considered as the best to be used. This is because the area in which
the research was carried out was considered as a large geographical
area. It was possible to have face to face contact and did not need
collecting data by postal questionnaire or telephone interviewing.
314
6.1 Sources of data

Data for this research were from primary and secondary sources.
i.
Primary Sources. These were questionnaires that were

administered,
and
interviews
that
were
conducted.
Discussions with jewellery producers and consumers, and

first hand observation by the researcher on the field were
also primary sources of collection of data for this thesis. The
questionnaires were designed to cover the two sectors
involved in the jewellery industry, mainly the jewellers
(producers) i.e. owner managers, and managers who are
employees of the jewellery companies, Apprentices and
other non management employee staff, and the consumers
(customers) of jewellery products who are mainly traders,
other workers and tourists who patronise jewellery
products.
ii.
Secondary sources: These have been exhaustively dealt with

mainly in chapter two which is the review of related
literature. With regard to the literature, documents used
included books, newspapers, journals, magazines and
periodicals and theses from libraries of the Kwame
Nkrumah University of Science and Technology, Kumasi,
College of Art and Social Sciences, KNUST, Department of
315
General Art Studies, KNUST, University of Education,

Kumasi Campus, National Museums, Accra, and British
Council, Kumasi.
6.2 Population size and the need to sample

For the research to achieve its objectives there was the need to collect
data to administer and administer questionnaire. The research
required sample data while others did not. Sampling therefore was
based on selected jewellers, jewellery firms, apprentices, stakeholders,
and customers of jewellery products in five towns from five regions in
Ghana. These are Accra, in the Greater Accra Region, Koforidua in the
Eastern Region, Cape Coast in the Central Region, Ho in the Volta
Region and Kumasi in the Ashanti Region. The sample design
involved one-on-one contacts both for the producers and the
customers. Also, as written earlier, the simple random sampling
method was used, which involved finding out and interviewing the
selected interviewees or respondents in each category at random.
Sampling was necessary for the following reasons:
i.
it was impractical to survey the entire population
ii.
budget constraints prevented a survey of the entire population
iii.
time constraints prevented a survey of the entire population
iv.
data collected needed results quickly.
316
In this regard, as can be seen in Table 6.1, forty jewellery firms and
workshops were selected at random from five towns for the main
purpose
of
administering
the
questionnaire.
Three
hundred
individuals including forty jewellers/owner managers, one hundred

employees, forty apprentices and one hundred customers of the forty
selected firms and workshops were also selected at random, and were
either interviewed directly and they responded to the questionnaire or
questions. Twenty consultants were also interviewed. These details are
shown in Table 6.1. Table 6.2 shows the distribution of respondents
and the percentage of the respondents.
Table 6.1 Distribution of sample Size

Interviewees Sample
Size
Employees
100
Accra
Kumasi Koforidua Ho
60
30
10
Cape
Coast
0
Apprentices
40
15
10
Jewellers
40
15
10
Customers
100
40
30
10
10
10
Consultants
20
Total
300
136
85
35
23
21
317
6.3 Pre testing of questionnaire

Before using the questionnaire to collect data, it was pilot tested. The
purpose of the pilot test was to refine the questionnaire so that
respondents would have no difficulties in answering the questions and
there would be no problems in recording the data. In addition, it
enabled the researcher to obtain some assessment of the questions
validity and the reliability of the data collected. Preliminary analysis
using the pilot test data was undertaken to ensure that the data
collected enabled the investigative questions to be answered. The pilot
test was conducted in accordance with the advice of Bell (1993:84) who
considers such a test to be very necessary. For any research project
there is a temptation to skip the pilot test. This researcher endorses
Bells (1993) advice that however pressed for time a person is, it is best
for him to give the questionnaire a trial run as without a trial run, he
has no way to knowing that the questionnaire will succeed.
The pilot test was checked with each completed pilot questionnaire to
ensure that respondents have had no problems understanding or
answering questions and have followed all instructions correctly. Their
responses provided an idea of the validity of the questions. For selfadministered
questionnaires,
additional
318
information
about
the
problems was obtained by giving respondents a further short

questionnaire.
According
to
Bells
advice,
when
the
short
questionnaire was administered, it was found out that:
i.
the questionnaire took between 10 to 15 minutes to complete
ii.
the instructions were clear
iii.
none of the questions was unclear or ambiguous
iv.
the respondents did not feel uneasy about answering any of

the questions
v.
in the opinion of the respondents there were no significant

topic omissions
vi.
the layout was clear and attractive
vii.
there were no other comments.
For self-administered questionnaire, additional information about

problems can be obtained by giving respondents a further
questionnaire. This Bell (1993:269) suggests should use this to find out:
i.
how long the questionnaire took to complete
ii.
the clarity of instructions
iii.
which, if any, of the questions were unclear or ambiguous
iv.
which, if any, questions the respondent felt uneasy about

answering
v.
whether in their opinion there were any significant topic

omissions
vi.
whether the layout was clear and attractive
vii.
any other comments.
319
6.4 Data collection instruments

The data required for the study were gathered as shown earlier
through interviews, questionnaire administration and moreover,
personal observation as an additional instrument to check the validity
and reliability of the information gathered on the field of research.
Postal or E-mail was not used in administering the questionnaire
because when this methods are used, they yield poor results. Saunders
et al (1997:131) testifies that those who normally respond to postal and
E-mail questionnaire constitute about 15 to 20 percent. To be able to
have a high respondent rate and accuracy of data, the information was
collected by the researcher personally. The researcher administered the
questionnaire and conducted face-to-face interviews. As a result of
this, the researcher got 93.3% (refer to table 6.2) response which is close
to Saunders estimation of 98%. The questionnaire for the customers of
jewellery was however left in the shops where they were selfadministered and collected at a later period. As pointed out earlier, the
entire data collection, including the administering of the questionnaire,
took this researcher over twelve months to complete.
320
Table 6.2 Distribution of respondents and respondent percentage
[ Sample Size ][
Accra
][
Kumasi ][ Koforidua ][
Ho
][Cape Coast]
100
100
100
60
60
100
30
30
100
10
10
100
40
40
100
15
15
100
10
10
100
100
100
100
40
40
100
15
15
100
10
10
100
100
100
100
Cu
100
80
80
40
35
87.5
30
28
93.3
10
70
10
40
10
60
Co
20
20
100
100
100
100
100
100
300
280
93.3
136
131
96.3
85
83
97.6
35
32
91.4
23
17
79.9
21
17
80.9
Key to Table 6.2
I = Interviewees, S= Sample size, R= Respondents

%= Percentage
E= Employees, A= Apprentices,
J= Jewellers, Cu= Customers, Co= Consultants,
T= Totals
To effectively achieve the set objectives, the survey of the jewellery

firms was carried out by involving the following:
i.
the design of questionnaire
ii.
pre-testing the questionnaires
iii.
modification of the pre-tested questionnaires
iv.
administration of the modified questionnaires
v.
analysis of the data obtained from the questionnaires.
321
6.5 Data analysis

The data collected from the field were summarised and quantified
statistically. They were later presented in a comprehensive manner
in the form of tables, graphs, or pie charts within the thesis. (See for
example, pages 172, 188, 191, 196 and 265). For a clearer
understanding, the figures were expressed in percentages and in
certain cases absolute values, and in other cases both in percentages
and in absolute figures. These figures were used to derive the
trends to analyse and to offer explanations and generalisation
where necessary.
322
CHAPTER SEVEN
SUMMARY, CONCLUSION, SUGGESTIONS AND
RECOMMENDATIONS
7.0 Summary
The research started with the review of related literature. The review tried
comparing related literature by other researchers on the subject matter. It
tried to vividly outline and find out the problems that still persisted for
the present author to solve.
This thesis has tried to solve the problems it identified. Therefore it has
discussed the process of acquiring land for establishing a jewellery
workshop and has pointed out the problems associated with it. This is
important because if one does not take the necessary good steps in
acquiring it, one can be led into very serious litigation problems in the
future at a time least expected and thus affect the existence of ones
jewellery business.
The thesis has also shown that it is important to maintain good health and
safety at the work place. It has also discussed the environmental impact
on the industry. It has pointed out that keeping a good and healthy
environment, and maintaining all the rules on safety will not only lead to
323
a well motivated workforce, but also increase production by way of the

workers not falling sick frequently.
The thesis has also confirmed a previous view that other materials apart
from gold and silver can be used to produce jewellery. This will offer
employment to the youth including young girls, since it does not involve a
lot of capital.
The thesis has also brought to light the fact that when experienced and
qualified designers who are currently in world trends in jewellery are
employed by the jewellers in Ghana, it will let the jewellery companies
expand their local market including the expansion of the export base of
their jewellery products which as mentioned earlier in the thesis is not in
high quantity in this country at the moment. The country will therefore
gain by way of increase in the countrys foreign exchange earnings.
The thesis has offered various suggestions for solving some of the many
problems that have been mentioned in this work. It is believed that if the
suggestions are taken, they will better ensure the viability of the jewellery
industry.
324
Finally, the thesis has emphasised the need for Ghanaian jewellers to take
advantage of the presence of Anglogold Ashanti operating in the country,
to learn from South Africa the various strategies that it has put in place to
uplift its jewellery industry.
7.1 Conclusion
Obviously, this thesis as stated earlier has identified the numerous
problems that are hindering the development of the jewellery industry in
Ghana. Suggestions in tackling the numerous problems have been offered
by the writer.
The research has shown beyond all reasonable doubts that with
commitment and sacrifice from stakeholders, the problems identified as
militating against the development of the jewellery industry in Ghana can
be solved. When the problems are solved, it will lead to job creation,
increase in foreign exchange earnings for the country, and a boost in
tourism. Value will be added to waste and raw minerals and thus increase
revenue.
The thesis has discussed that to make Ghanaian jewellery marketable, and
internationally acceptable, there is the need to employ or engage the
services of qualified designers of international repute, so as to improve
325
upon the design of the jewellery. This will in turn widen the range of
designs produced by the jewellers in the industry. The thesis has also
indicated that emphasis must not only be on the raw adinkra designs, but
using them as motifs that can be improved upon, and not forgetting to
emphasise on its background as a source of African inspiration.
Moreover, the thesis has offered suggestions and recommendations for the
improvements of advertisement by jewellery companies in the country. It
is the hope of the present researcher that the suggestions and
recommendations will be considered by traditional goldsmiths, beadmakers, researchers, jewellers and the government of Ghana.
Above all, the thesis has identified that when jewellers form co-operatives
there will be cost sharing and thus will reduce their operation costs. Cost
sharing in legal services, accountancy and consultancy are likely areas that
the jewellers can co-operate and have economies of scale. Also, when the
jewellery businesses operate their outfits well by keeping sound
management practices, the jewellery industry will flourish. In the light of
the above, mention was made of good record keeping and professional
pricing of jewellery products. With commitment therefore the problems
facing the industry can be solved.
326
It is the expectation of the writer that the Federation of Ghanaian Jewellers

will also play its desired role by way of an aggressive membership drive
so that in unity, the problems facing the jewellery industry can be solved.
The hypothesis that there are problems facing the Ghanaian jewellery
industry which can be identified and with proposals for their solutions
offered, they can be solved was also corroborated by statistical data in
Table 7.1 and further clarified with Table 7.2
The researcher was impressed by the responses from the three hundred
people who responded to the questionnaire and also those who were
interviewed orally, on the hypothesis that the problems facing the
Ghanaian jewellery industry can be identified and with proposals for their
solutions offered, they can be solved. As seen from Table 7.1, therefore,
out of the 280 people who answered the questionnaires or were
interviewed, 242 answered in the affirmative that the problems can be
solved. In Table 7.2, it was assumed that with the twenty nonrespondents answering in the negative and thus having a 100%
respondent which is 300 people, we will still have 80.7% responding that
the problems can be solved.
327
Table 7.1 Statistical data showing that the problems facing the jewellery industry can be solved.
A
Employees
100
100
84
16
100%
84%
16%
0%
Apprentices
40
40
40
100%
100%
0%
0%
Jewellers/Masters
40
40
32
100%
80%
20%
0%
Customers
100
80
20
68
12
80%
68%
12%
20%
Consultants
20
20
18
100%
90%
10%
0%
TOTALS
300
280
20
242
38
93.3%
80.7%
12.6%
6.7%
Key to table: A: Sample Size, B: Respondents, C: Non-respondents, D:

Yes response,
E: No response,
F: % of respondents, G: % of YES
response, H: % of NO response, I: % of Non-response.
with the assumption that the twenty non-respondents answered NO.
A
Customers
100
100
68
32
100%
68%
32%
0%
TOTALS
300
300
242
58
100%
80.7%
19.3%
0%
Key to table:: A: Sample Size, B: Respondents, C: Non-respondents, D:

Yes response,
E: No response,
F: % of respondents, G: % of YES
response, H: % of NO response, I: % of Non-response.
328
As can be seen from Table 7.1 and Table 7.2, the respondents comprise:
i.
100 employees from jewellery firms
ii.
40 apprentices from the jewellery industry
iii.
40 jewellers, who are either owner managers or individual

masters
iv.
100 customers of the jewellery firms including students and

lecturers who have been buying jewellery from between one
to over twenty years
v.
20 consultants related to the jewellery industry
Since the 242 people representing 80.7% confirmed the hypothesis that the
problems facing the jewellery industry can be identified and solved, and
the writer also associating himself with the 80.7%, it is certain that the
problems bedevilling the jewellery industry can be identified and solved,
provided the suggestions outlined later in this thesis are taken seriously.
7.1.1 Researchers New Findings

This thesis, The Ghanaian Jewellery Industry; Its problems and
solutions, as far as the researcher is aware of, is the only work that is
solely devoted to the problems and solutions in the jewellery industry in
Ghana. With the researcher researching and coming out with numerous
research findings, this thesis will serve as a useful document for jewellers,
policy makers, researchers and students.
329
This thesis has unearthed the important role that land acquisition plays in
the setting up of a jewellery factory. It has been mentioned in the thesis
that when acquiring land, whether rented, leased or freehold, the
necessary search has to be made so as to avoid litigation in future since
land disputes, when they get to the law courts for settlement, take several
years to be resolved. Also in deciding where to establish a jewellery shop,
whether for bead making, lost wax casting goldsmithing or casting, using
the cuttlefish bone, certain economic decisions have to be taken. Some of
these decisions are accessibility to raw-materials, nearness to the market
and in certain cases utilities like water, electricity and probably the
telephone.
As mentioned by the researcher earlier, learning how to make jewellery

does not require any high academic education. It takes the interest and
determination of the person. Previously, apart from bead-making, women
or females had been discriminated against by traditionalists belief to
practise the trade but some females are now learning and practising it.
The suggestion that jewellers should form a unified association and

operate as a co-operative association will be beneficial to the jewellers
themselves. As a unified strong union, they could lobby the government
330
about their requirement, and since they pay tax, and therefore contribute
to the development of the country, the government may listen to their
concerns. Also, they could order for tools, raw materials and other
accessories in bulk and gain the advantage of having discounts because of
bulk purchase.
Various methods of testing for gold have also been mentioned in the
thesis. Their rate of accuracy limitations and their estimated cost have also
been mentioned so that anybody who wants to buy gold jewellery or
testing equipment specifically for testing gold jewellery, will make him
take the correct decision. In the previous thesis, mention was made only
of the touch stone or acid test and the electronic test without reference to
their rate of accuracy. Things mentioned by this researcher in this PhD
thesis which are also new findings include the advantages and
disadvantages of the Ghana Standards Board (GSB) setting up a
Hallmarking and assaying unit to hallmark Ghanaian gold jewellery. The
purpose of the Ghana Standards Boards (GSB) decision to hallmark gold
jewellery as written earlier in this thesis is to regulate the quality of
jewellery manufactured and imported into Ghana. A summary of these
methods is depicted in table 7.3
331
Table 7.3 Summary of various methods of testing gold. (Source: World Gold
Council report)
Technique
Versatility
Fire Assay
Only gold
ICP
Complete
analysis
Complete
analysis
XRF
Sample
size
250 mg
Accuracy
Limitations
0.02%
20mg
0.1%
Non destructive
0.1 - 0.5%
Surface
layer, flat
samples
Unsuitable
for high
carat and
white gold
Not
consistent
Only for
binary
alloys
Touchstone
Only gold
Almost
nondestructive
1.2%
Electric pen
Only gold
4 8%
Density
Only gold
Non destructive
Non destructive
Poor
Equipment
Cost
Moderate
US$50,000
High
US$150,000
Moderate
US$25,000+
Low US$100
Low US$200
Low US$500
Mention was also made in this thesis for the need to set up a Jewellers
Council as it is in South Africa. The council when formed should operate
along the lines of councils like the Pharmacy Council, the Medical and
Dental Council, or the Judicial Council. Membership of the council as
recommended by this writer should be some representatives from the
Ghana Chamber of Mines, the Ministry of Trade and Industry, Financial
Institutions, the Ghana Standards Board, the Ministry of Education, the
Ministry of Employment and Manpower Development, the Federation of
Ghanaian Jewellers, and the jewellery training institutions.
332
This thesis has explained in detail the goldsmithing processes, the bead
making processes and the lost wax casting methods. It has also explained
in detail casting using the cuttlefish bone.
Again mentioned in this thesis is the need for the engagement of

designers of international repute. This writer, in accordance with plate 4.4
has given suggestions of redesigned gye nyame symbol.
As mentioned previously, and again as stressed in this thesis, is the

important role that the Metal Section of the Department of Industrial Art
of KNUST and the existence of the College of Jewellery at Weija, have
played in solving to some extent the manpower requirements of the
jewellery industry. It was indicated by the researcher that the government
through the Ministry of Education should also heed the call to introduce
jewellery in the senior secondary and technical schools in Ghana. Further
research during the writing of this PhD thesis has shown that the PMMC
and Goldfields Ghana Ltd. are planning to open jewellery training schools
in the country. It was also written earlier that the Cape Coast University is
also in the process of starting a B. Tech degree programme in Jewellery.
Apprenticeship training and the apprenticeship Act are also mentioned in

the thesis as avenues through which the jewellery industry could expand.
333
It was previously suggested that, masters who do not pay their

apprentices some form of allowance should do so, and it should be paid
regularly so as to encourage the apprentices to learn the trade, and not
face any hardships during training. It is learnt from the fieldwork that
most masters use their apprentices as house helps in addition to the
training and teaching. It is also learnt from the fieldwork that most
apprentices are now being paid allowances. It will therefore be an
innovation if apprentices are made to sign a contract with their masters
stating the obligations of both the master and the apprentice as stated
earlier in the thesis because no such contract is being signed now between
the apprentices and their masters. Apprenticeship therefore should not be
for school dropouts but should be a matter of choice.
The health needs of the jewellers are also important. It was mentioned
that workers of jewellery firms, because of the unhealthy nature of their
jobs, should have regular medical check ups. Children and pregnant
women should not be allowed in the workshops since it could affect their
health. There should be no eating in the workshop, whiles no smoking
signs should be adhered to. On the field of research, it came to light that
certain shops have heeded the advice, and do have check ups. Some have
also now taken the researchers recommendation, and are therefore
334
having regular medical check ups. They have also registered their
workers under the National Health Insurance Policy.
In the previous thesis it was mentioned that the production section can
work on a shift system so as to produce more. This means that one set of
workers will come in the morning while another set comes late afternoon
and closes in the night. It has however been noted in this thesis that, even
without a shift system in place, a well motivated workforce is rather the
workforce that is able to produce even above its targets. Motivated people
generally work hard. Mention was also made of McGregors motivational
Theory X and Theory Y. The thesis has mentioned that the owners of
jewellery shops do not normally motivate their workers, and the workers
think that their masters are cheating and using them to enrich themselves.
There is therefore the need for the managers to pay their staffs adequately.
It has also been learnt that it is not only money that motivates, but
working in the right environment and having the required tools and raw
materials also motivate and increase production.
Readers are reminded that in the previous thesis, suggestions were made
for the training of more jewellers preferably outside the country to learn
the newest technology since the Metal section for example had equipment
dating back to the 1960s. It will also be recalled that it was further
335
suggested in that thesis that the metal section should source funding from
institutions like USAID, or DANIDA, to equip its studios with modern
machines. On the field of study for this thesis it was realised that on the
exchange of human and technology resources, and as mentioned in this
thesis, the South Africa government has employed a Ghanaian goldsmith
to train South African jewellers in West African traditional jewellery
technology. South Africa has promised that this exchange programme
would be extended to other Ghanaian jewellers, and it would be a
collaboration, and not only between Ghana and South Africa, but other
African countries.
Mention was also made in the previous thesis that the government
through the Ghana Export Promotion Council should initiate a
programme that will enable jewellers promote their products through the
internet, but for the past years it has not been done due to the cost
involved. It is therefore as a new contribution that this writer has called
on the same stakeholders to come out with a Jewellery Information
Handbook which will make information available on the jewellery
industry to both producers and consumers.
336
Kotoku (2001:204) wrote on the SWOT or micro analysis, which examined

the strength, weaknesses, opportunities and threats to the jewellery
industry in Ghana which other writers did not note in their writings. In
this thesis even though mention was still made of the SWOT or micro
analysis, it has gone further to discuss the PEST or macro analysis which
is the political, economic, social and technological environments in which
the jewellery business operates. This analysis will enable the jewellery
business not to operate in a vacuum but with a business plan. Under the
legal environment, some of the numerous laws that are necessary for the
smooth operation of the jewellery industry are produced as appendices.
In the previous thesis, it was mentioned that there was no clear-cut

system on the pricing of jewellery in Ghana. Apart from the four different
types of pricing mentioned in that thesis and still referred to in this thesis,
the current thesis has gone further to suggest a formula to be used as a
basis for pricing. This formula as well known, has taken into
consideration the raw material and other direct costs such as the cost of
electricity, indirect and other overhead costs, and a profit margin before
arriving at the selling price. When this formula is adopted by jewellers,
they will not sell their works at a loss.
337
On the issue of insurance, whiles the previous thesis recommended to

jewellers to insure their premises against fire and burglary, this thesis has
added that individuals can also insure their jewellery against theft or
deposit them with the banks for safe keeping as is being done in some
developed countries like Britain, France, Sweden and USA. With this
development customers may buy more since they are sure of the security
of their jewellery.
7.1.2 Comparison between the Research Findings and the Literature

Review
It is necessary to compare the research findings with the literature review
because if is not done, the literature review will be irrelevant to the whole
thesis. Both the fieldwork and the related literature confirm that there are
numerous problems facing the jewellery industry in Ghana.
In this regard therefore, scholars like Professor James Anquandah in his

book, Rediscovering Ghanas Past, have attested to the fact that simple
implements were employed in the jewellery in the nineteenth Century. He
continues that such implements are still in use today. This thesis has made
the same observation, and Ayensu (1997) also confirms this. Also, the
observation of this PhD thesis writer and the observation made by both
Anquandah and Ayensu have shown that the use of traditional methods
338
slows down production, both in the gold mining and jewellery making
sectors. Beads for example, are still produced in the traditional and crude
methods without regards to the health and safety of the employees. Lost
wax casting is carried out in the open using wax, palm-nut fibre and
charcoal as some of its raw materials. These methods unlike the modern
vacuum casting machines used in developed countries and modern
workshops, casts works with a lot of flaws. These works have to be filed
and refilled in attempts to get the flaws off. In most cases, the cast items
have to be cast again, which is a waste of time.
During the research on the field by the researcher of this thesis, it was
realised that techniques like filigree, granulation hand chain weaving and
cuttlefish bone casting are some of the traditional techniques that most of
the goldsmiths in Ho, Cape coast, Koforidua, Accra, and Kumasi still
practice. Anquandah (2003:16) again in an article says that the goldsmiths
still employ traditional methods which were in vogue in earlier centuries.
As regards traditional gold-mining using crude methods popularly

known as galamsey, there have been reports of the miners getting
trapped underground and losing their life. Furthermore, as stated in the
review of related literature, Sarpong (1974:36) writes of the Akan custom
of burying corpses especially of the royal people with certain items
339
including jewellery. They are of the belief that the items were needed on
their destination. The same observation has been made by the researcher
of this thesis.
This researcher mentioned the Federation of Ghanaian Jewellers, which

only exists in name today. Just like the inability of the jewellers of today to
organise themselves into a strong association. Anquandah (2003:16) as in
the review of related literature, wrote that there once existed the gold and
silversmiths association which was set up around 1909 and grew to
become a powerful union of traditional craftsmen. The lack of a strong
jewellery association as observed clearly on the field of research made it
difficult for the smiths to present their grievances to government.
In the review of related literature, Akabuo (1988:14) confirms that in the

Anfoega and other areas in the Volta Region, women were not entertained
in the goldsmith profession. This is because as Apenteng (1994:10) puts it,
jewellery making was associated with magic. Therefore, women were
forbidden to practise it. It will be recalled that this matter has been noticed
in this thesis. We have also found out from the fieldwork that the taboo
that barred women from practising goldsmithing has been relaxed. The
reason given by certain older smiths as to why women were previously
not allowed to practise goldsmithing was because certain rites were
340
performed, and it was feared that a woman in her menstrual periods was
impure for such rites. Even according to Adjei (1992:28) as in the review of
related literature, under certain circumstances, the male smiths should
abstain from sex in the course of making a particular work. These
traditional practices, as was gathered on the field of research, have
reduced tremendously these days. There were female apprentices in
certain workshops and at the metals section of the Faculty of Industrial
Art, KNUST; there are more females who graduate than males.
Akabuo (1988:15) wrote that during his research, the smiths were not
ready to give information on the trade to outsiders. They still hold
jewellery in mystery. Laye (1973:162) also points out that everything our
various metal workers made was inseparable from the mystery; it was
directly connected with the cult and magic. The goldsmiths of old
believed that the knowledge they had was sacred and must not be shared.
This has led to a falling standard in the industry. Today, however, even
though information is still difficult to get, few of their colleagues gave
information to researchers and writers if they are prepared to pay them
some money. This reseacher confirms this that when the smiths are given
money they give out certain information, even though it is still with
difficulty.
341
As in the review of related literature, Apenteng (1994:11) again wrote of

the high cost of raw materials like gold and silver. He suggested the use of
other less expensive raw materials like wood, bone, glass etc for the
making of jewellery. It is a laudable idea when this reseacher during the
fieldwork also realised that jewellery producers were using all sorts of
materials including glass for beads, stones and other materials cheaper
than gold to produce jewellery.
Both the review of related literature and the present researchers findings
have indicated that the problem of good designing is hindering the
growth of the jewellery industry since most of the jewellers are illiterate
and are therefore inexperienced in proper designing. During the
fieldwork for writing this thesis, it came to light that lack of education and
conservatism are still a major set back in the development of the jewellery
industry.
7.2 Suggestions and recommendations

In line with the identified problems militating against the jewellery
industry, and for the purpose of solving the problems, the writer offers
the following suggestions which will be presented in two parts. The first
being a recast of the suggestions that were made in the researchers MA
thesis, and the second being the new suggestions made in this thesis.
342
7.2.1 Suggestions made in the researchers MA thesis

i.
As suggested in the researchers previous MA thesis, jewellers

should form co-operatives so that they import inputs like
chemicals, tools and equipment in bulk, so as to gain the
advantage of bulk purchase discount.
ii.
Under the co-operative system, jewellers could also rent a

common shop which should be turned into a showroom, where
they will display and sell their products. They will then share
the operating cost among themselves and this will improve
their profits as they will cut down cost.
iii.
On the production of tools, as recommended in my previous

thesis, the jewellers could contact the Technology Consultancy
Centre, or the Faculty of Engineering, or any Engineering or
blacksmithing firm who has the machines and the facilities to
produce the tools.
iv.
On the packaging of jewellery products it is suggested that

small wooden boxes lined with a wisp of tissue can be used as
jewellery boxes for small items. Cloth off-cuts from the garment
industry can also be sewn and used as packaging bags for
jewellery. Depending on the size of the bag, it could be used to
package items bought in large quantities. In packing however,
care must be taken not to scratch the items.
343
v.
It is also recommended that periodic courses and seminars be

run for sales persons of the jewellery showrooms so that they
can learn how to serve their customers better for increased sales.
vi.
It is recommended also that those jewellers who have not

insured their premises and wares should do so because in case
of disaster, they could make claims and revive their business.
They must also understand that insurance premiums are
company expenses and therefore tax exempt.
vii.
It is also recommended that jewellery firms must make use of

consultants in their businesses. Whether accounting, legal,
marketing or management, since the consultants can advise
them and offer strategic plans for them to have advantage over
their competitors. This will be at a cheaper and negotiated cost
since the person has to be consulted as and when his services
are needed.
viii.
As suggested earlier, jewellery workshop floor sweepings must

be kept and refined. The floor must also be cleaned with water
and rag, and the waste water allowed to settling in the bucket to
retrieve the gold filing and dust before the water is thrown
away. If possible one should use woollen carpet to trap the gold
dust.
344
ix.
The Environmental Protection Agency must be strict and rigid

in enforcing all by-laws on the environment. Chemicals flushed
out during refining and production must be well diluted or
neutralised.
x.
To increase production, the production section should run a

shift system so as to use the same quantity of workshop space,
tools and equipment to increase production.
xi.
The jewellers as evidenced in some associations must form cooperatives so that tools for example, must be imported in bulk
at a lower price, and professional services accessed at a
discounted price.
7.2.2 Suggestions made in the current thesis

xii.
Considering the numerous litigations involved in acquiring

land as outlined in the thesis, it is suggested that jewellers must
do thorough investigations before they make any payments.
The investigations on whether the land has already been
allocated can be done at any Regional office of the Lands
Commission.
xiii.
Even though hallmarking of precious metal jewellery is

important, care must be taken in passing any legislation making
hallmarking compulsory in Ghana since research has shown
345
that the country is not ready yet, because the industry is still
regarded as an infant industry. There is no code of ethics on
members of the trade which in the view of the researcher must
supersede such legislation because without such a code
jewellers might not feel morally guilty if they do not hallmark
their products. A country like India, which is the highest
consumer of jewellery in the world, has a voluntary
hallmarking system in place. Ghana should follow suit because
in India, where there is voluntary hall marking most of the
jewellers are individual master goldsmiths just as pertains in
Ghana. It will therefore be a laborious task to mark each piece of
jewellery produced.
xiv.
Gold and other minerals mined in this country are exported in

their raw state. There is therefore the need to encourage mining
companies and other investors, whether local or foreign to set
up gold refineries within their factories to meet the gold
jewellers requirements. The jewellers themselves can also set
up small refinery units in their workshops to refine floor
sweeping and other waste materials in their studio.
xv.
As can be seen in the thesis, the designs of Ghanaian jewellery

products are limited. This has therefore made sales to decline in
the industry in recent times. To be able to increase sales and
346
venture into export market therefore, it is recommended that

world class designers need to be employed by Ghanaian
jewellers who will help in improving the designs.
xvi.
More training schools in jewellery production have to be

opened so as to produce the human resource requirement of the
jewellery industry. Currently, there is the College of Jewellery at
Weija, and the Metals section of the Department of Industrial
Art, KNUST, that runs programmes in jewellery up to the MFA
level.
xvii.
The laws on Apprenticeship, Vocational and Technical

education must be enforced so as to ginger the youth to take
interest in learning a trade including jewellery. The current law,
Act 351 of 1970 legalised the establishment of the National
Vocational Institute with a vision to improve upon capacity
development, skill training and re-training and to set standards
to control quality of skill training at the craft and secretarial
levels. It has a mission to co-ordinate nationwide all aspects of
vocational training including apprenticeship.
xviii. Those Jewellery businesses that have not registered their

businesses with the Registrar Generals Department as legal
corporate entities must do so. It is necessary for them to do so
because, without that they may not be able to open bank
347
accounts in the name of their businesses and have access to the

much needed capital to expand their businesses.
xix.
Research departments on the promotion and use of other metals

in large scale jewellery production must be set up under the
Industrial Research Institute of the CSIR, and the Metal Section
of KNUST or any other institution so as to come out with
current research findings in the industry. Current literature and
research findings on the jewellery industry are very minimal if
not almost nil, hence the suggestion about embarking on more
researches.
xx.
Inspectors must enforce the laws on health and safety in the

workplace. Section 75 to 77 of the Factories, Office and Shops
Act of 1970 (Appendix E) empowers inspectors to carry out
inspection in factories without any obstruction so as to make
sure that the places are in a safe and healthy condition.
Production staff must undergo regular medical check ups, at
least two times in a year. This will keep them in good health for
maximum production output.
xxi.
Stakeholders must produce a jewellery information handbook

so that jewellers of Ghana will read and become acquainted
with the modern production and marketing trends in the
348
industry. As in South Africa, it will be a reference book on the

industry, in which both consumers and producers can consult.
xxii.
There must also be the formation of a National Jewellery

Council that will oversee the activities of the jewellery industry.
As stated in the thesis, the council must operate along the lines
of other councils like the Pharmacy Council, Medical and Dental
Council or the Judicial Council that sees to regulate and register
members in their sectors.
xxiii. There must also be established a Jewellery Marketing and

Research Centre for people to go there and upgrade their
knowledge. This centre could serve as a hive for jewellers to go
periodically to learn latest trends in the industry. It should have
a well stocked library and should be able to provide jewellers
with information from both local and foreign buyers.
xxiv. In establishing of a jewellery firm, there must be a business plan
which should take into consideration, the PESTLE analysis, i.e.
the Political, Economic, Social, Technological Legal and the
Environmental factors of the macro economy. This plan will
position the company strategically, and it will have a vision and
a mission. It will have a goal. The plan will show where the
company is now, where it wants to be and how it wants to get
there. It will also enable the company to plan properly and
349
match actual outputs with projected, and therefore investigate

any variance.
xxv.
In the pricing of jewellery products, the formula for pricing the

products as mentioned earlier could be used as a guide, but the
product life cycle and value addition must also be taken into
consideration.
xxvi. Jewellers must undergo management training from time to

time. This will enable them to expand their businesses since
they will acquire skills that will make them handle the growth
of the business. With proper management training they will be
able to interpret the financial positions of their businesses.
xxvii. Jewellery shops must encourage customers, especially tourists
to use credit, cheque or electronic cards for the purchase of their
jewellery. This is necessary because they will tend to buy more
since they will not be paying immediately with physical cash.
xxviii. As a way of increasing sales, jewellers can employ marketing
and sales staff who will sell and canvass their jewellery from
house to house, or door to door, especially week-ends and
public holidays when most people are at home. Hawking of
jewellery must also be encouraged. In this case, they should be
paid commission on sales made so as to motivate them to work
hard.
350
xxix. Chimneys and extractor fans must be used to extract any

gaseous material in the workshop since most of the gases may
be poisonous. This step is necessary so as to keep smiths in
good health.
xxx.
Finally, the use of the internet to source for latest information on

the industry on production, sales and marketing is highly
recommended.
351
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Analysis of Symbolism in Goldsmithing and Gold Products at
Tarkwa. Unpublished MA Thesis, College of Art Library,
KNUST, Kumasi.
2. Adubofour Stephen (1992) Exhibition of Handicraft
Jewellery Daily Graphic 6th December.
3. Akabuo, Johnnie, (1998) Gold Usage among the Ewes of
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4. Alhassan W. S. Prof. (1994) The Animal Industry in Ghana,
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8. Asomaning, Kofi (2005) Towards a viable competitive gold
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worlds most precious metal Ashanti Gold. Marshall Editions
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10. Bartol, K.M. and Martin, D. C. (1993) Management
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11. Bell, J. (1993) Doing your Research Project (2nd edition),
Buckingham, Open University Press.
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12. Boachie, Charles Adu (1994) The Challenges of the Ghanaian

Jeweller in the face of Technological Development
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13. Brech, E.F.L. (1975) The Principles and Practice of
Management, Third edition, Longman, London.
14. Byars L.L. and Rue L.W. (1992) Management Skills and
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15. Contact Promotion Programme in North America for Jewellery
and Handicraft from Ghana: Interim Report.
16. Crainer, S. (1998) Key Management Ideas: Thinkers that
Changed the Management World, Third edition, Financial
Times Prentice Hall.
17. Daily Graphic, September 2, 2003 No 148914. The Graphic
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19. De Bellefond S.V. (1669) Relation et voyage de costes
dAfrique appelees Guinea en 1666 et 1667, Paris, 1669.
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21. Drucker, P. F. (1979) Management, Pan Books Ltd., London.
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25. Harrison, Paul (1979) Inside the Third World, Harmondsworth
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26. Hetthiaratchi Theja Dr. (1993) - Ghana Jewellery Prospects West Africa Magazine.
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30. Hurd, Geoffrey (1986) Human societies - An Introduction to
Sociology, Routledge, Chapman and Hall Inc., New York.
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Philip
(2003)
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Management,
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Education, Inc New Jersey 2003

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M.D.
(1981)
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edition, Harper and Row, London.
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Ghanaian Culture, Ghana Publishing Corporation, Tema.
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Times Corporation Limited, Accra.
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Times Corporation Limited, Accra.
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355
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Export, BA unpublished thesis, College of Art Library,
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356
GLOSSARY
1. Adinkra: they are traditional designs that have proverbial meanings.
2. Gye Nyame: it is a traditional adinkra design with the proverbial meaning

Except God.
3. Kente: a colourful traditional cloth woven on a traditional loom.
357
APPENDIX A
QUESTIONNAIRE FOR JEWELLERY PRODUCERS
1. Name:
(optional)
2. Sex: (i) Male (ii) Female
Nationality: Ghanaian / Non - Ghanaian
3. Age: (25 40 years) (40 55 years) (above 55 years)

4. Location of Business: (i) Town(ii) Region: .
5. Educational Background: (i)JSS/Olevel (ii)SSS/Alevel
(iii)Tertiary (iv)other
6. Form of ownership (i ) Sole proprietor (ii) Partnership (iii) Limited
Liability (iv) Other (please specify)
7. Is the business registered with the Registrar Generals Department?

(i)Yes (ii)No
8. If yes, when If No,
why.
9. Nature of Business: (i) Retailing (ii) Wholesaling (iii) Manufacturing
(iv) Exporting
10. How long have you been working at this present location? (i) 05years
(ii) 5+ - 10 years (iii) 10 years and above
11. How long has the business been in existence? (i)05yrs (ii)5+-10yrs
(iii)10 years and above
12. What products does the company produce? (i) Beads (ii) gold
jewellery (iii) brass
(iv) Costume (v) Silver jewellery (vi) other
13. Are the companys current premises adequate? Yes / No
14. If No, does the company have plans of moving in to bigger facilities?
Yes / No
358
15. If Yes, what factors would be taken into consideration in relocating?

(i)Nearness to market (ii) Nearness to Utilities (iii) Size of new
premise
( iv) Infrastructure Development (v) other
16. Do family members hold any positions in the business? (i) Yes (ii) No
17. If yes, what positions? (i) Management (ii) Sales (iii) Production (iv)
Other.
18. How did you raise the initial capital to start the business?
(a) From own savings locally (b) Travelled abroad (c) Loan from
friends (d) loan from bank (e) loan from family (f) gift from family
(g) grant from government (h) loan from government (i) sale of
own/family property (j) other sources (specify)
19. How did you acquire your tools and equipment?
(i)
Through middlemen locally
(ii)
By importation
(iii)
Locally obtained
20. Are they second hand or new ones...

21. What percentage of your tools and equipment are imported?
(i) 0 25% (ii) 25 50% (iii) 50 75% (iv) 75 100%
22. What percentage of your tools and equipment are locally made?
(i) 0 25% (ii) 25 50% (iii) 50 75% (iv) 75 100%
23. Did you have any problems in acquiring your tools and equipment?
Yes / No
If yes, what was the nature of the problem?
(i)
Difficult to get right type of tools
(ii)
Exorbitant prices
(iii)
Suppliers credit difficult to get
(iv)
Banks unwilling to pre-finance without collateral
(v)
Difficulty in locating tools dealers
(vi)
Other
.
359
24. What is the current system of operation or production process?

(a) capital intensive (b) labour intensive.
25. What problems do you encounter during the manufacturing process of
your jewellery? .
26. How are the problems solved?
27. How do you design your jewellery?

(i)
Copying from catalogue
(ii)
Relying on customers description of item
(iii)
Copying of other products
(iv)
Does not design
(v)
Commissions a designer
(vi)
Other
28. Do you face any problems in the designing of your jewellery? Yes /
No
29. What is the nature of the problem, and how is it solved?
30. What problems do you face during the finishing stage of your
jewellery?
31. How do you check the quality of your products, and what problems do
you encounter, and how are they solved?
32. How are production losses controlled?
33. How do you check pilfering in the workshop? ..
34. What practices do you have in place for tools and equipment
maintenance?
35. Does the company have an employee benefit plan? Yes /No
36. If Yes, please give details .
37. Does the company have a medical care plan? Yes /No
38. If Yes, please give details .
39. Does the company have an employee bonus plan? Yes / No
360
40. If Yes, please give details

41. Does the Company have a Board in place? Yes / No
42. If Yes, how often do they meet?
43. Are Board decisions implemented? Yes / No
44. If No, please give reasons ...
45. Do you have a management team in place? Yes / No
46. Are management decisions implemented? Yes / No
47. If No, please give reasons ..
48. Does the Company have an Organizational Chart? Yes / No
50. Does the Company have a Business Plan? Yes / No
52. Is there any training programme in place for staff? Yes / No
54. How many employees are in the company?
(a)1-5(b)6-10(c)11-15(d)15-20 (e)20+
55. How many are employed in the production unit? .
56. Of the production staff, how many are females? ..
57. Of the production staff, how many are skilled? ....
58. Of the production staff, how many are unskilled?
59. Does the company give equal opportunity to females as males?
Yes / No
60. If No, please give reasons
61. Do you have a production Supervisor or Foreman? (i) Yes (ii) No
62. Do you have any problems with your production labour?
(i) Yes (ii) No
63. What is the nature of the problem, and how was it solved? .
64. What are the major raw materials you use in the production of your
jewellery?
(i)
Gold
(ii)
Silver
361
(iii)
Brass
(iv)
Copper
(v)
Broken Glasses
(vi)
Scrap Metal
(vii)
Other
65. How do you get your raw materials?

(i)
Local sources
(ii)
Imported by own company
(iii)
From local middlemen
66. Do you have any problems in the acquisition of raw materials?

(i) Yes (ii) No
67. What is the nature of the problem?
68. Does the company have substitutes for its raw materials? Yes / No
69. Is the company registered with the Ghana Standards Board? Yes /No
71. Which of the following utilities does the company have access to?
(Please tick)
Electricity, Water, Telephone, Fax, E-Mail, Internet, Gas, Access
Road, Others (please specify)
72. Are there any problems in accessing utility? Yes / No
73. If Yes, what is the nature of the problem?
74. Has the company undertaken any Environmental Impact assessment?
Yes / No
75. If No, please explain
76. Is the company aware of the current laws relating to environmental

protection? Yes / No
77. Does the company export? Yes /No
78. If No, what are the constraints?
(i)
Lack of interested
(ii)
Products not designed for export
(iii)
Low production level
362
(iv)
Satisfied with local sales
(v)
Other
79. If Yes, to what countries?

80. Are sales seasonal? Yes / No
81. If yes explain.
82. Are you able to produce to meet demand? Yes / No
(i)
Lack of capital
(ii)
Lack of production staff
(iii)
Orders unrelated
(iv)
Orders produced per piece
(v)
Other
84. What is the distribution channel of your products? (Please tick)

Manufacturer Wholesaler Retailer Consumer
Manufacturer Wholesaler - Consumer
Manufacturer Retailer - Consumer
Wholesaler Retailer Consumer
Manufacturer Consumer
Wholesaler Consumer
Retailer - Consumer
85. How does the company price its products? (Please underline)
Based on production cost Accountants approach
Based on design Value satisfaction
Based on competitors price The traders approach
Based on Market demand Economists approach
86. Does the company keep financial records? Yes / No
87. Does the company prepare Audited Accounts? Yes / No
88. Is it easy for the business to obtain Loan or Credit? Yes / No
89. If No, please give reasons.
90. Does the business operate a bank account? Yes / No
91. If No, please explain
363
92. Does the Business prepare Budgets? Yes / No

93. If No, please give reasons..
94. Does the company employ the services of consultants? Yes / No
95. If Yes, in what areas. If No, please
explain...
96. Is the business Insured against Fire & Burglary? Yes / No
97. If No, please give
reasons.. .
98. Is the company a member of any of the following? (Please underline)
Federation of Ghanaian Jewellers
Ghana Bead Society
Ghana Gold & Silversmiths Association
Federation of Association of Ghanaian Exporters
Association of Ghana Industries
Ghana National Chamber of Commerce Industry & Agriculture
Empretec Business Forum
99. Is the company registered with any of the following? (Please

underline)
Internal Revenue Service
VAT Service
SSNIT
Any other (please specify)
100. If Yes, please cite examples and

explain...
101. Has the company participated in any local Trade Fairs or Exhibitions?
Yes / No
102. If Yes, what was the response?

..
364
104. Has any government legislation hampered the growth and smooth
operation of your business? Yes / No
105. Has the company participated in any foreign Exhibitions? Yes / No
106. If Yes, what were your impressions
107. If No, please give reasons .

108. What motivated you to start your own business?
....
109. Generally, what do you think are the major and minor problems facing
the industry?
110. How can the problems be solved?
111. Are solutions already underway? ..
112. Can the problems be totally solved? Yes / No
113. If Yes, how? ...
114. If No, why?
115. What internal forces (from both the industry and the nation) militate
against the welfare and expansion of the industry?
116. How can they be surmounted?
117. What external forces (from outside the industry, and outside the
country) militate against the industry?
118. Do you have any other comments or suggestions that will help
improve upon the jewellery industry in Ghana? ...
365
APPENDIX B
QUESTIONNAIRE FOR JEWELLERY CUSTOMERS
1. Name of customer
(optional)
2. Location (i) City/Town.(ii)
Region..
3. Sex: Male / Female
4. Age:
(below 18-25years)
(25-40 years)
(40-55years)
(above 55 years)
5. Profession:
6. Educational Background ( )illiterate( )Secondary( )Tertiary
( )other (specify) ...
7. What type of jewellery products do you normally buy?
( ) gold ( ) silver ( ) other (specify)..
( ) locally produced ( ) imported
8. For how long have you been buying jewellery products?
0-2 years 2-5 years 5-10 years 10-15 years 15-20 years 20+ years
9. What is your purpose for buying jewellery?
( ) to adorn the body ( ) as a present ( ) for future investment
( ) to resell
( ) wedding ( )engagement ( )presentation to baby( )other (specify)
10. Are you a regular customer of any jewellery company or jeweller?
( )Yes ( )No If yes why do you prefer a particular jeweller, or
company?
(i)
Because of location
(ii)
Because of after sales facilities and repairs
(iii)
Because of its image
(iv)
Because of speed and efficiency of staff
(v)
Because of the price charged
366
(vi)
Because of product quality
(vii)
Because of high level of formality
11. What do you think about the prices of Ghanaian locally produced
jewellery?
( )very high ( )high ( )average ( )low
specify type of
jewellery...
12. What do you think about the prices of imported jewellery?
( )very high ( )high ( )average ( )low
specify type of jewellery
13. Does the price influence your choice of purchase? Yes / No
14. If Yes, how?..
14. What do you think about the quality of jewellery produced in Ghana?
( ) Excellent ( ) Very good ( ) Good ( ) Fair ( ) Poor
15. Does the quality influence your type of purchase? Yes / No
16. What do you think about the designs of the jewellery produced in
Ghana?
17. How do you grade the services of the jewellers and jewellery
companies you have visited?
18. If not so good, how do you think the jewellers or companies can
improve upon their services? .
19. Are you satisfied with the attitude of the sales staff of jewellery
companies?
Yes / No
20. If No, Why? ..
21. If Yes, what do you like about their services?
22. Are you satisfied with the packaging of jewellery products? Yes /No
23. If No, Why? ..
24. If Yes, what do you like about the packaging?
367
25. Have you been following any advertisement of the jewellery

companies? Yes/No
26. If No, Why..
27. If Yes, what do you like about the advertisement? ..
28. Does advertising influence your mode of purchasing? Yes / No
29. In your view, do you think that religion (Christianity, Islam) or our
culture has any influence on your jewellery purchase? Yes / No
30. In your view, do you think that our culture has any influence on your
jewellery purchase? Yes / No
If Yes, please explain ..
31. What are your impressions about Ghanaian jewellery companies in
general?
32. Do you have any suggestions to help Ghanaian jewellers and
producers improve upon their products and services?
368
APPENDIX C
QUESTIONNAIRE FOR EMPLOYEES IN JEWELLERY FIRMS
1. Age: (below 25years) (25 40 years) (40 55 years) (above 55 years)

2. Sex: (a) Male (b) Female
3. Educational Background:
(i) JSS/Olevel (ii) SSS/Alevel (iii)Tertiary (iv) Other
4. Marital Status: (a) Single (b) Married (c) Divorced
5. Number of children: (a) 1
(b) 2
(c) 3
(d) 4 (e) 5+
6. How long have you been employed here?

(a)1-5 (b) 6-10 (c)11-15 (d)15-20 (e) 20+
7. What department are you in?
(a) Administration (b) Sales (c) Production (d) Other
8. What type of task do you perform
9. Are you a full-time /part-time worker?
10. Are you satisfied with your job? Yes / No
11. If No why
12. Do you have a contract of employment? Yes / No
13. How many hours do you work a day?
(a) 8hours (b) 8 hours (c) 8 hours +
14. Are you satisfied with your pay? Yes / No
15. If No give reasons
16. Do you receive any other incentives apart from your pay? Yes / No
17. Are you a family member? Yes / No
18. Do you intend leaving the job soon? Yes / No
19. If Yes why.
20. Have you had any training since you were employed here? Yes / No
369
APPENDIX D
QUESTIONNAIRE FOR APPRENTICES IN JEWELLERY FIRMS
1. Age: (below 18years) (18 25 years) (25 30 years) (above 30 years)

2. Sex: (a) Male (b) Female
3. Educational Background:
(i) JSS/Olevel (ii) SSS/Alevel (iii)Tertiary (iv) Other
4. How long have you been an apprentice here?
(a)-1 year(b)1year(c) 2years(d)3 years(d)4years(e)5years(f)5years +
5. Why did you decide to be an apprentice?
(a) school drop out (b) interested in learning a trade
(c) did not have opportunity for formal education
(d) parents decided for me (e)other
6. What is the relationship between you and your master?
(a)Excellent (b)Very good (c)Good (d)Fair (e)Poor
7. Do you receive any allowances? Yes / No
8. If yes, is it regular? Yes / No
9. Are you satisfied with the training here? Yes / No
10. What are your plans after your apprenticeship?
(a) set up own workshop (b) look for a job (c) work with my master
370
APPENDIX E
FACTORIES, OFFICES AND SHOPS ACT, 1970
Abstract of the Factories, Offices and Shops Act, 1970 in the Form prescribed by the Minister
responsible for Labour (L.I. 654 of Gazette No. 69 of 20th August 1970)
ABSTRACT
1. REGISTRATION OF FACTORIES- Every person who occupies a
factory on 1st April, 1970 must apply to the Chief Inspector of Factories
within one month for its registration. A Certificate of Registration will then be
issued, (Section 2.)
Where a factory is first occupied after 1st April, 1970 application for
registration, must be made to the Chief Inspector before work in the factory
begins. A Certificate of Registration will then be issued (Section 3.)
2. NOTIFICATION OF ACCIDENTS- Where an accident in a factory

causes the death of a person employed therein or prevents him from earning
full wages at his work for more than three days the occupier of the factory
must immediately send full particulars of the accident to the Chief Inspector
or the Inspector for the district.
If the person injured should subsequently die of his injuries, the occupier of
the factory should immediately send written notice of the death to the
Inspector for the district (Section 10)
3. NOTIFICATION OF DANGEROUS OCCURENCES- All cases of

explosion, fire, collapse of buildings, accidents to machinery, or plant likely to
cause risk of serious injury to employees, collapse, overturning or failure of
cranes, derricks, winches, hoists, etc., and bursting of a revolving vessel,
wheel, grindstone or grinding wheel occurring in a factory must be
immediately reported by the occupier to the Inspector for the district.
(Section 11)
371
4. NOTIFICATION OF INDUSTRIAL DISEASES- All cases of

poisoning, anaemia jaundice and certain other specified diseases must be
immediately reported by the occupier to the Inspector for the district.
(Section 12)
5. CLEANLINESS- Every factory must be kept clean. In particular,

accumulations of dirt and refuse must be removed daily from floors and
benches and from staircases and passages. The floor of every workroom must
be cleaned at least once a week, and all inside walls, partitions and ceilings
must (a) if they have a smooth impervious surface be washed with hot water
and soap or cleaned by other suitable method every 12 months, or (b) if kept
painted with oil paint or varnished, be repainted or re-varnished every five
years and washed with hot water and soap every 12 months, or (c) in other
cases be whitewashed or colour-washed every 12 months.(Section 13)
6. OVERCROWDING- A factory must not be overcrowded. There must be

in each workroom at least 400 cubic feet of space for every person employed
not counting space more than 14 feet from the floor. Workrooms must be at
least 9 feet high. (Section 14)
7. VENTILATION- Adequate ventilation of all workrooms must be secured

by the circulation of fresh air. Where dust or fumes are present which are
likely to be harmful, or where any substantial quantity of dust is given off, all
practicable measures must be taken to prevent the workers from inhaling it,
and where it is practicable localised exhaust ventilation must be provided and
maintained.(Section 15 and 23)
8. WASHING FACILITIES- Adequate and suitable washing facilities must

be provided and kept clean for the use of all employees. (Section 16)
372
9. LIGHTING- There must be suitable and sufficient lighting, either natural

or artificial, in every part of the factory, where persons are working or
passing. (Section 17)
10. DRAINAGE OF FLOORS- Where wet processes are carried on there

must be adequate drainage of the floor. (Section 18)
11. SANITARY ACCOMMODATIONS- Sufficient and suitable sanitary

conveniences, separate for each sex, must be provided and kept clean.
(Section 19)
12. DRINKING WATER- An adequate supply of wholesome drinking water

must be provided. If the water is not a piped supply it must be kept in suitable
vessels and renewed daily and all practicable steps to prevent contamination.
(Section 20)
13. ACCOMMODATION FOR CLOTHING- Adequate and suitable

accommodation for clothing not worn during working hours must be
provided. (Section 21)
14. SITTING FACILITIES- Employees who have opportunities for sitting

in the course of their work must be provided with suitable seats. (Section 22)
15. TAKING OF MEALS- No person shall be allowed to take food or drink

in any room where dust or fumes caused by any poisonous or otherwise
injurious substance are present. (Section 24)
16. PROTECTIVE CLOTHING- Suitable protective clothing must be

provided for workers in any process involving excessive exposure to wet, or
to any injurious or offensive substance. This protective clothing may include
gloves, footwear, goggles or head coverings as may be necessary. (Section 25)
373
17. PROTECTION OF EYES- In certain specified processes goggles or

other effective screens must be provided to protect the eyes of workers.
Where electric arc welding is carried on the process must be screened so as to
prevent persons (other than the persons engaged in the welding process) being
exposed to the electric arc flash. (Section 25)
18. NOISE AND VIBRATIONS- Noise and vibrations likely to affect the
health of employees must be reduced as far as possible by appropriate and
practicable measures. (Section 26)
20. FIRST AID- In every factory there must be provided for every 150
persons employed a first aid box or cupboard, of a prescribed standard,
containing only first aid requisites, and in charge of a responsible person who
must always be readily available during working hours. A notice must be
displayed in the premises stating the name of the person in charge of the box
or cupboard. (Section 28)
21. PREVENTION OF FIRE- Every factory must have adequate means of

fighting fire, which shall be kept in good condition and so placed as to be
readily available for use. All stocks of highly inflammable substances must be
kept in a fire resisting store or in a safe place outside the building. (Section 31)
22. FIRE ALARMS- Where more than 20 persons are employed in one
building, or where explosive or highly inflammable substances are stored or
used in any building in which persons are employed, fire alarms or other
effective warning devices clearly audible throughout the building must be
installed, maintained in good condition and thoroughly tested every 3 months
by a competent person. (Section 32)
374
23. SAFETY PROVISIONS IN CASE OF FIRE- There must be adequate

means of escape for all workers in case of fire, which shall be kept from
obstruction. Contents of rooms must be arranged to give a free passageway to
the means of escape and while persons are inside the factory all doors
affording a means of exit must not be fastened in such manner that they
cannot be immediately opened from inside. In the case of new factories, all
doors affording a means of exit must either open outwards or be sliding doors.
All means of escape in case of fire must be clearly marked by a suitable
notice. Effective steps must be taken to ensure that all persons employed are
familiar with the means of escape and the routine to be followed in case of
fire. (Section 33)
24. CONSTRUCTION OF FLOORS, ETC., AND PRECAUTIONS

AGAINST FALLS- Floors, passages, gangways, steps, stairs and ladders
must be of sound construction and properly maintained. Handrails must be
provided for stairs and openings in floors must be fenced so far as the nature
of the work permits. So far as is reasonably practicable there must be provided
(i) safe means of access to every place at which any person has at any time to
work, and (ii) fencing or other means for ensuring the safety of any person
who is to work at a place from which he could fall more than eight feet and
which does not provide secure foothold and, where necessary, secure
handhold. Sufficient clear and unobstructed space must be maintained at every
machine in motion to enable the work to be done without risk. (Section 34/35)
25. TRAINING AND SUPERVISION- No person shall be employed at any

machine or in any process likely to cause him injury unless he has been fully
instructed as to the dangers likely to arise and the precautions which he must
take, and he has received sufficient training or is under adequate supervision.
(Section 36)
375
26. CLEANING OF MACHINERY- No woman or young person shall be

allowed to clean any part of a machine if they would thereby be exposed to
risk or injury from any moving part of that machine or any adjacent
machinery. No woman or young person shall be allowed to clean any part of a
prime mover or of any transmission machinery while the prime mover or
transmission machinery is in motion. (Section 37)
29. NEW MACHINES- New power driven machines must not be sold, let on
hire, or used unless certain specified parts are effectively guarded.
(Section 41)
35. PRECAUTION AGAINST GASSING OR SUFFOCATION- Special

precautions are laid down for working in confined spaces where men are
liable to be overcome by dangerous fumes or where the supply of air may be
insufficient. (Section 48) Further precautions will be laid down in safety
regulations made under section 51 of the Act, and such precautions must be
strictly observed.
36. PRECAUTIONS AGAINST EXPLOSION OF INFLAMMABLE

DUST OR GAS- Precautions against explosion are laid down for certain
process and for welding or soldering on containers which have held any
explosive or inflammable substance. (Section 49)
41. INSPECTION- Factory Inspectors have power to inspect every part of a

factory by day or by night. They may require the production of registers,
certificates and other papers. They may question any person found in the
factory, either alone or in the presence of any other persons they think fit, and
may exercise such other powers as are necessary for carrying the Act into
effect, including the taking of samples for analysis. It is an offence to obstruct
an Inspector in the execution of his duties. (Section 77)
376
APPENDIX F
ACT 651 LABOUR ACT, 2003
PART III PROTECTION OF EMPLOYMENT

Rights of employer
8. Subject to this Act and any other enactment the rights of an
employer include the right to
(a) employ a worker, discipline, transfer, promote and terminate the
employment of the worker.;
(b) formulate policies, execute plans and programmes to set targets;
(c) modify, extend or cease operations; and
(d) determine the type of products to make or sell and the prices of its
goods and services.
Duties of employers
9. Without prejudice to the provisions of this Act and any other enactment
for the time being in force, in any contract of employment or collective
agreement the duties of an employer include the duty to
(a) provide work and appropriate raw materials, machinery, equipment
and tools
(b) pay the agreed remuneration at the time and place agreed on in the
contract of employment or collective agreement or by custom without
any deduction except deduction permitted by law or agreed between
the employer and the worker;
(c) take all practicable steps to ensure that the worker is free from risk
of personal injury or damage to his or her health during and in the
course of the workers employment or while lawfully on the
employers premises.
(d) develop the human resources by way of training and retraining of
the workers
377
(d) provide and ensure the operation of an adequate procedure for

discipline of the workers.
(e) provide and ensure the operation of adequate procedure for
discipline of the workers.
(f) furnish the worker with a copy of the workers contract of
employment;
(g) keep open the channels of communication with the workers and
(h) protect the interests of the workers
Rights of a worker
10. The rights of a worker include the right to
(a) work under satisfactory, safe and healthy conditions;
(b) receive equal pay for equal work without distinction of any kind;
(c) have rest, leisure and reasonable limitation or working hours and
period of holidays with pay as well as remuneration for public
holidays;
(d) form or join a trade union;
(e) be trained and retrained for the development of his or her skills;
and
(f) receive information relevant to his or her work.
Duties of workers
11.
without prejudice to the provisions of this Act, the duties of a
worker in any contract of employment or collective agreement, include

the duty to
(a) work conscientiously in the lawfully chosen occupation;
(b) report for work regularly and punctually;
(c) enhance productivity;
(d) exercise due care in the execution of assigned work;
(e) obey lawful instructions regarding the organization and execution
of his or her work;
(f) take all reasonable care for the safety and health of fellow workers;
(g) protect the interests of the employer; and
378
(h) take proper care of the property of the employer entrusted to the
worker or
Contract of employment
12. (1) The employment of a worker by an employer for a period of six
months or more or for a number of working days equivalent to six months or
more within a year shall be secured by a written contract of employment;
(2) a contract of employment shall express in clear terms the rights and
obligations of the parties;
Written statement of particulars of contract of employment
13. Subject to the terms and conditions of a contract of employment
between an employer and a worker, the employer shall with two months after
the commencement of the employment furnish the worker with a written
statement of the particulars of the main terms of the contract of employment
in the form set out in Schedule 1 to this Act signed by the employer and the
worker.
Sub-Part not applicable to family concerns
32.
This sub-Part does not apply to a person employed in an undertaking
in which only members of the family of the employer are employed.
PART
XV
OCCASIONAL
HEALTH,
SAFETY
ENVIRONMENT AND ENVIRONMENT
General health and safety conditions

118.
(1)
It is the duty of an employer to ensure that every worker
employed by him or her works under satisfactory, safe and healthy conditions.
(2) without limiting the scope of subsection (1) an employer shall
(a) provide and maintain at the workplace plant and system of
work that are safe and without risk to health
(b) ensure the safety and absence of risks to health in
connection with use, handling, storage and transport of articles
and substances;
379
(b) provide the necessary information, instructions, training

and supervision having, storage and transport of article and
substances;
provide the necessary information, instructions, training and
supervision having regard to the age, literacy level and other
circumstances of the worker to ensure, so far as is reasonably
practicable, the health and safety at work of those other
workers engaged on the particular work.
(d) take steps to prevent contamination of the workplaces by,
and protect the workers from, toxic gases, noxious substances,
vapours, dust, fumes, mists and other substances or materials
likely to cause risk to safety or health;
(e) supply and maintain at no cost to the worker adequate
safety appliances, suitable fire-fighting equipment, personal
protective equipment, and instruct the workers in the use of the
appliances or equipment;
(f) provide separate, sufficient and suitable toilet and washing
facilities and adequate facilities for the storage, changing,
drying and cleansing from contamination of clothing for male
and female workers;
(g) provide adequate supply of clean drinking water at the
workplace; and
(h) prevent accidents and injury to health arising our of,
connected with, or occurring in the course of, work by
minimizing the causes of hazards inherent in the working
environment.
(3) It is the obligation of every worker to use the safety appliances,
fire-fighting equipment and personal protective equipment provided by the
employer in compliance with the employers instructions.
380
(4) an employer shall not be liable for injury suffered by a worker

who contravenes subsection (3) where the injury is caused solely by noncompliance by the worker.
(5) An employer who, without reasonable excuse, fails to discharge
any of the obligations under subsection (1) or (2) commits an offence and is
liable on summary conviction to a fine not exceeding 1000 penalty units or to
imprisonment for a term not exceeding 1000 penalty units or to imprisonment
for a term not exceeding 3 years or to both.
Exposure to imminent hazards
119. (1) When a worker finds himself or herself in any situation at the
workplace which she or he has reasonable cause to believe presents an
imminent and serious danger to his or her life, safety or health, the worker
shall immediately report this face to his or her immediate supervisor and
remove himself or herself from the situation.
(2) an employer shall not dismiss or terminate the employment of a
worker or withhold any remuneration of a worker who has removed himself or
herself from a work situation which the worker has reason to believe presents
imminent and serious danger to his or her life, safety or health.
(3) any employer shall not require a worker to return to work in
circumstances where there is a continuing imminent and serious danger to the
life, safety or health of the worker.
Employer to report occupational accidents and diseases
120. an employer is required to report as soon as practicable and not later
than seven days from the date of the occurrence to the appropriate government
agency, occupational accidents and diseases which occur in the workplace.
Specific measures
121.The Minister may by legislative instrument woke Regulations providing
for specific measures to be taken by employers to safeguard the health and
safety of workers employed by them.
381
Mediation
154. (1) Subject to the time limit in respect of essential services, if the
parties fail to settle a dispute by negotiation within seven days after the
occurrence of the dispute either party or both parties by agreement may refer
the dispute to the Commission and seek the assistance of the commission for
the appointment of a mediator.
(2)
Where the Commission is satisfied that the parties have not
exhausted the procedures established in the collective agreement or have not

agreed to waive those procedures, the Commission shall order the parties to
comply with those procedures within such time as the Commission may
determine.
(3) When the Commission is satisfied that
(a)
the parties have exhausted the procedures established in the
collective agreement;
(b) the parties have failed to settle the dispute; and
(c) none of the parties has sought the assistance of the Commission to
appoint a mediator.
the Commission shall request the parties to settle the dispute by mediation
within three days of the Commission becoming aware of the non-resolution of
the dispute.
(4) Where the parties agree to mediate and at the end of the mediation
proceedings there is settlement of the dispute, the agreement between the
parties as regards the terms of the settlement be recorded in writing and signed
by the mediator and the parties to the dispute.
(5)
The settlement agreement referred to in subsection (4) shall be
binding on all the parties unless the agreement states otherwise.

(6)
When at the end of a mediation proceedings, no agreement is
reached, the mediator shall immediately declare the dispute as unresolved and
refer the dispute to the Commission.
382
(7) When at the end of a mediation proceeding, no agreement is reached, the

mediator shall immediately declare the dispute as unresolved and refer the
dispute to the Commission.
Voluntary arbitration
157. (1) when mediation fails under section 154 (6) and the dispute is
referred to the commission, the Commission shall with the consent of the
parties refer the dispute to an arbitrator or an arbitration panel appointed under
section 156.
(2) The parties to an industrial dispute shall, within three days after
the appointment of an arbitrator or an arbitration panel under section 156,
submit to the arbitrator in writing a statement of the issues or questions in
disputes signed by one or more of the parties or their representatives.
(3) the arbitrator shall as soon as possible appoint a time and place for
the hearing and notify the parties.
(4) If any party fails to appear before the arbitrator after the expiration
of seven days after being so notified, the arbitrator shall proceed to hear and
determine the dispute.
Arbitrator award
158. (1) The decision of the arbitrator or a majority of the arbitrator shall
constitute the award and shall be binding on all the parties.
(2) The arbitrator shall communicate the award in writing to the parties
and the Commission within seventy-two hours after the award has been made
except where the Commission is the arbitrator.
(4) In a compulsory arbitration, the decision of the majority of the
arbitrators shall constitute the award and shall be binding on all the parties.
383
APPENDIX G
RELEVANT SECTIONS OF COMPANYS ACT (ACT 179) OF 1963

14. After the commencement of this Code a company shall be formed in a
manner following, that is to say,
(a) there shall be delivered to the Registrar for registration a copy
of the proposed Regulations of the Company complying with sections 16 to 18
of this Code;
(b) unless, in the opinion of the Registrar,
(i) the Regulations do not comply with this Code;
(ii) the objects for which the company is being formed
of the business which it is to carry on, or any of them are unlawful;
(iii) any of the subscribers to the Regulations is an
infant or of unsound mind; or
(iv) any of the directors named in the Regulations is
under section 182 of this Code, incompetent to be appointed a director,
The Registrar shall register the said Regulations;
(c) upon registration of the Regulations, the Registrar shall certify
under his seal that the company is incorporated and, in the case of a limited
company, that the liability of its members is limited;
(d) from the date of registration mentioned in the certificate of
incorporation, the company shall be a body corporate by the name contained
in the Regulations and, subject as provided in sections 27 and 28 of this Code,
be capable forthwith of exercising all the functions of an incorporated
company;
(e) the Registrar shall insert a notice in the Gazette stating the
issue of such certificate and the terms thereof;
(f) the certificate of incorporation, or a copy thereof, certified as
correct under the hand of the Registrar, or the Gazette containing the notice
referred to in paragraph (e) of this section, shall be conclusive evidence that
the company has been duly registered and incorporated under this Code and
384
no proceedings shall be brought in any Court to cancel or annul such

registration Provided that nothing in this paragraph contained shall prejudice
the institution of proceedings to wind up the company in accordance with
section 247 of this Code.
(5) If the Registrar is of the opinion that by reason of any change in the
objects of, or the nature of the business carried on by a company the name
under which it is registered is misleading or undesirable, the Registrar may
Part D: Commencement of Business

27.
(1) A company registered after the commencement of this Code shall
not transact any business, exercise any borrowing powers, or incur any
indebtedness, except such as shall be incidental to its incorporation or to
obtaining subscriptions to or payment for its shares, until it has delivered to
the Registrar a return in duplicate in the prescribed form giving particulars, as
at the date of the return, of,
(a) its name;
(b) its authorized business, or, if the company is not formed for the
purpose of carrying on a business, the nature of its objects;
(c) the names and any former names, addresses and business
occupations of its directors and secretary, and particulars of any other
directorships held by them, as provided by section 196 of this Code;
(d) the name and address of its auditor;
(e) the addresses of its registered office and principal place of
business in Ghana and the number of the post office Box of its registered
office;
(f) if its register of members is kept and maintained elsewhere
than at he registered office of the company, the address at which it is kept;
(3) The return shall be signed by two directors and by the secretary of
the company
385
(4) The Registrar shall register the said return and cause a copy thereof
to be published in the Gazette.
28.
(1) A company limited by shares registered after the commencement
of this Code shall not transact any business, exercise any borrowing powers,
or incur any indebtedness, except such as shall be incidental to its
incorporation or to obtaining subscriptions to or payment for its shares, until,
(a) there has been paid to it for the issue of its shares consideration
to the value of at least five hundred pounds of which at least one hundred
pounds shall have been paid in cash within the meaning of section 45 of this
Code; and
(b) the company has delivered to the Registrar for registration a
declaration in the prescribed form verifying that such payments have been
received.
(2) An existing company limited by shares shall not continue after the
expiration of six months from the commencement of this Code to transact any
business, exercise any borrowing powers, or incur any indebtedness unless,
(a) prior to the expiration of the six months and whether before or
after the commencement of this Code, there shall have been paid to it for the
issue of its shares consideration to the value of at least five hundred pounds of
which at least one hundred pounds shall have been paid in cash within the
meaning of section 45 of this Code; and
(b) the company has delivered to the Registrar for registration a
declaration in the prescribed form verifying that such payments have been
received.
(3) For the purposes of this section any value attributed to the goodwill
of a business or to services rendered or to be rendered to the company shall
not be regarded as valuable consideration for the issue of shares.
(4) The declarations referred to in subsections (1) and (2) of this
section shall be signed by all the directors and by the secretary of the
company.
386
387

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GHANAIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY:

ITS PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

A Thesis submitted to the Department of General Art Studies,

I am sincerely grateful to my supervisor, Dr. O. Osei Agyeman, of the Department of General

Many developing countries including Ghana possess significant deposits of precious

1.11 Ethnographical background of Ghana.10

3.0 Introduction ..79

3.10 Finishing: Their problems and solutions .165

5.5.1.1 Theory X People and the jewellery industry in Ghana ...............261

CHAPTER SIX: METHODOLOGY .312

7.0 Summary 323

Suggestions and Recommendations342

7.2.1 Suggestions made in MA Thesis .343

Plate 2.6.Female students of the College of Jewellery in the studio ....58

Plate 3.18 Mr Agyeman of Kurofufurom preparing wax threads ....157

Plate 5.6 Ear protection sign. .245

AGI: Association of Ghana Industries

AGOA: African Growth Opportunity Act

AIDS: Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome

BA: Bachelor of Art

BBA: Bachelor of Business Administration

BESO: British Executive Service Overseas

BFA: Bachelor of Fine Art

BIS: Bureau of India Standards

CEPS: Customs Excise and Preventive Service

10. C.P.P.: Contact Promotion Programme

23. GTZ: German Development Co-operation

46. UK: United Kingdom

14. Goldsmith: is a person who makes gold into ornaments.

a measure of gold purity. One karat is 1/24 pure, so 24 karat is pure

a mark that indicates the manufacturer, importer or seller of an item.

1.1 Statement of the problem

Although there is the Federation of Ghanaian Jewellers which is

family member goes through a lot of frustration to get apprenticed.

The above problems have necessitated the writing of this thesis. As

1.2 Objectives of the study

To find out the problems associated with the jewellery

To suggest probable solutions to the problems.

The research was based on selected jewellers, jewellery firms,

1.5 Statement of assumption

1.6 Reasons for writing

the problems so as to provide the necessary enabling environment to

It is also necessary to write on this thesis because as far as the present

It is again necessary for this thesis to be written because a good labour

1.8 Importance of the study

Another important problem to be solved if the jewellery industry is to

Narrative, descriptive, analytical and interpretative methods are used

1.10 Organization of chapters

The Third Chapter tackles the problems and solutions to the

Map 1.1 Map of West Africa, showing Ghana

Map 1.2 Map of Ghana Today showing the ten Regions

1.11 Ethnographical background of Ghana

Century, the wealth of ancient Ghana began to decline. There were

Daniel Owiredu, Chief Operations Officer, AngloGold-Ashanti (West

1.12 Climate and vegetation

comparatively dry along the southeast coast; hot and sometimes

In Ghana, the weather cannot be forecast more than a week or so in

traditional and cultural festivals and thus guarantee some type of

Much of the natural vegetation of Ghana depends on factors like the

It must be noted that it is the climate that determines the vegetation

The Ministry of Agriculture is encouraging growth in the agriculture

When Ghana gained independence from colonial domination in 1957,

1.15 Industries and infrastructural development