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Introduction:
Yarn occupies intermediate position in manufacture of fabric from raw material. Yarn results are
therefore essential, both for estimating quality of raw material & for controlling quality of fabric
produced. The important characteristics of yarn being tested are,
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6.
Yarn twist
Linear density
Yarn strength
Yarn elongation
Yarn evenness
Yarn hairiness etc.
Sampling:
In order that results obtained are reproducible & give reliable information about material, sampling
must be true and representative of bulk lot. Sampling procedure should be designed to take account of
& to minimize known sources of variability such as variation between spindles, variation along length
of bobbin, etc. procedure for sampling & number of test carried out are given under each characteristic.
Twist:
"Twist is defined as spiral disposition of components of yarn, which is generally expressed
as the number of turns per unit length of yarn, e.g. turns per inch, turns per meter, etc.
Twist is essential to keep the component fibres together in a yarn.
Strength, dyeing, finishing properties, feel of finished product etc. are all dependent on twist in yarn.
With increase in twist, yarn strength increases first, reaches a maximum and then decreases.
Depending on end use, two or more single yarns are twisted together to form "plied yarns"
orfolded yarns" and a number of plied yarns twisted together to form "cabled yarn".
Among plied yarns, the most commonly used are doubled yarns, wherein two single yarns of
identical twist are twisted together in a direction opposite to that of the single yarns.
Thus for cabled & plied yarns, direction of twist & number of turns per unit length of
resultant yarn as well as of each component have to be determined for a detailed analysis.
Direction of twist is expressed as "S"-Twist or "Z"-Twist. Direction depends upon direction of
rotation of twisting element.
Twist take up is defined as, "decrease in length of yarn on twisting, expressed as a percentage
of the length of yarn before twisting.
There are a number of systems & units for expressing yarn fineness. But they are classified as follows
Direct system:
1. English count(Ne)
2. Metric count(Nm)
3. French count(Nf)
Indirect system:
1. Tex
2. Denier
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Another factor which determines length of yarn taken for testing is type of balance used. Some
balances like quadrant balance, Beesley's balance have been specially designed to indicate yarn
count directly from tests on specified short lengths of yarn & are very useful for determining
counts of yarn removed from fabrics. minimum accuracy of balance required is 0.001mg
One of the most important requirements for a spinner is to maintain average count & count
variation within control. Term count variation is generally used to express variation in weight
of a lea & this is expressed as C.V%. This is affected by number of samples & length being
considered for count checking. While assessing count variation, it is very important to test
adequate number of leas. After reeling appropriate length of yarn, yarn is conditioned in
standard atmosphere for testing before its weight is determined.
The minimum number of sample required per count is 20 and per machine is 2.
Breaking strength, elongation, elastic modulus, resistance abrasion etc are some important
factors which will represent performance of yarn during actual use or further processing.
Strength testing is broadly classified into two methods
1. Single end strength testing
clamp displacement at point of peak force. Elongation at peak force is no identical with
elongation at very moment of rupture (elongation at rupture).
Work to break is defined as area below stress/strain curve drawn to point of peak force &
corresponding elongation at peak force. Work at point of peak force is not identical with work at
very moment of rupture. To compare tensorapid test results with other results,
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There are two fundamental criteria which affect compatibility between different measurements
of tensile yarn properties.
1. Testing conditions, i.e. testing principle (CRE, CRL), testing speed, gauge length, & pre-tensioning.
2. Second criteria, which also affects magnitude of differences, relates to specific stress/strain
characteristic of yarn itself, which is determined by fibrous materials, blend ratio, & yarn construction.