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HANDS ON DIAGNOSIS

by Larry Frash

ince the last edition of Hands


on Diagnosis, Im happy to
report that Ive regained some
of my speed in the rebuilding aspect of
my job. As far as the diagnostic part,
Ive had quite a few interesting problems to work on.
In this issue, well cover three
vehicles with bad computers. Ill
explain the different diagnostic steps
and why I followed them. This will
allow you to use these tests on vehicles
with different problems.
When diagnosing a computer
problem, poor grounds and improper
supply voltage to the computer can
cause many symptoms. These symptoms can mislead you into believing
the computer is bad when it isnt.
Always test voltage and grounds before
condemning the computer. The voltage
and grounds were fine in all three of
these examples.
Right or wrong, diagnosis in the
real world is a balancing act between
using proper testing to pinpoint the
problem, and throwing parts at it while
crossing your fingers. Its all about fixing the vehicle as quickly and inexpensively as possible.
There are many factors to consider when choosing between an educated guess and a diagnostic process.
But when diagnosing a bad computer,
always use some type of diagnosis
to verify the problem: Some of those
computers cost over $1000!

1994 Chevrolet C1500


with a 4L60E
Figure 1

42

This vehicle originally came in


with a broken drive shell. We rebuilt
the transmission and installed all new
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4/11/06 3:26:05 PM

Hands on Diagnosis
solenoids and an internal wiring harness. During the road test the transmission had very harsh engagements and
upshifts.
There were no codes, and according to the scan data, Force Motor current was 1.13 amps on the desired and
actual PIDs at idle. This indicated the
computer was commanding the correct
signal for normal line pressure at idle.
Usually the next test would be to
connect a pressure gauge to the transmission to verify line pressure, but I
was pretty confident it was high. At this
point there were two likely possibilities:
Either the new Force Motor was defective or the computer was bad and lying
to the scan tool.
It could have gone either way, but
it was quicker to check Force Motor
current than to pull the pan and install
another new Force Motor.
I looked at the wiring diagram and
found the computer pin numbers for
the Force Motor High and Low circuit.
I connected a current clamp around one
of them (figure 1).
A current clamp is a valuable tool
because its a non-invasive way to
check current flow. If you dont own
a current clamp you can still check
current with your ammeter, but youll
need to cut one of the wires and connect
them through your ammeter. Obviously
the current clamp is a much easier way
to check current; it saved me about 2030 minutes on this job alone.
According to the current test, the
actual current was 0.15 amps while
the scan tool was reading 1.13 amps.
But what could cause the current to be
so different from the scan data? Low
voltage or high resistance in the circuit
can cause low current, but the computer
should have recognized either of these
conditions, and displayed low current
in the scan data.
My conclusion was, since the
scan data was different from the actual
computer command, the computer was
most likely the cause. Unfortunately I
couldnt think of another test to verify
this, but installing a rebuilt computer
solved the problem.
This is a good example of why you
should never trust scan data 100%. If
the computer is bad, it can easily send
false information to the scan tool. By
comparing scan data to voltage and cur44

rent tests, you can often isolate the root


cause of the problem.

1994 Saturn with a TAAT


Transaxle

This vehicle came in with a code


for the Line Actuator electrical circuit.
I cleared the code, but it came back
intermittently when I turned the key on.
This type of electrical circuit problem is
either the computer itself, or the actuator circuit, which includes wiring, connections, ignition voltage, actuator, and
the actuator circuit board.
In this vehicle, all actuators have
a resistance specification of 4.5 5.5
ohms. The wiring diagram reveals each
actuator receives key on voltage through
its own fuse (figure 2).
Since the only trouble code being

set was for the Line Actuator, I focused


on that circuit. With the key off and
the computer disconnected, I measured
resistance from pin F1 of the computer
connector to the Line Actuator fuse.
The resistance was 5 ohms, so the circuit was within specs.
Next, I checked voltage at pin F1
with the key on. There were 12.6 volts,
proving the fuse was good and the circuit complete.
Because many electrical problems
only happen when the circuit is under
load, I performed a current draw test.
Keep in mind these actuators are pulse
width modulated; the computer never
completely grounds them during normal operation. But for a quick test you
can ground the actuator, as long its
only for a few seconds.

Figure 2

GEARS May/June 2007

Battery voltage was 12.6 volts.


Ohms Law (voltage resistance =
amperage) says each actuator circuit
should use about 2.5 amps when fully
grounded. To do this I supplied ground
through an ammeter to pin F1 with the
key on. The amperage was correct,
which proved that at the time I tested
the circuit, it was good. If the circuit
was good, the computer must be bad.
But remember, although this code
set often, it was still intermittent. The
circuit could still be at fault. I wanted
to verify the problem further.
Since the only trouble code was for
the Line Actuator circuit, the computer
saw the other actuator circuits as good.
Because all actuator circuits are identical, I switched the 2nd Actuator (pin F2)
with the Line Actuator (pin F1) at the
computer connector (figure 3a, 3b). To
be on the safe side, I ran the resistance
and amperage tests on the 2nd Actuator
circuit before I switched them.
The logic of this test was simple:
If a code for the 2nd Actuator set, it
would mean the Line Actuator circuit
was bad because that circuit was now
switched to the 2nd Actuator pin of the
computer.
But as soon as I turned the key on,
the original Line Actuator code set. This
proved the computer was at fault; the
code never reset after we replaced it.
This may seem like a lot of work,
but all this testing took just over an hour
and the tests were important. Although
the current draw test is much more
accurate, its important to check the
resistance in the circuit first, because a
shorted circuit can damage your meter.
Switching circuits at a computer
can be a useful test for other types of
problems and vehicles. The important
thing is, if you switch circuits at the
computer, the two circuits must be the
same type and resistance. For example,
you could switch shift solenoid circuits
on a 4L60E, but you should never
switch the TCC Solenoid Circuit with
the 3-2 Control Solenoid.

1998 Chevrolet S-10


Pickup with a 4L60E

This vehicle came in setting a code


for a 3-2 Control Solenoid circuit error.
I also noticed the engine was running
very poorly. This was a new job and
the customer also wanted a service, so
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45

Hands on Diagnosis
to save time I replaced the 3-2 Control
Solenoid and the internal wiring harness while the pan was off. At the same
time I verified the ignition switch was
supplying B+ to all solenoids.
After the work, the code still set as
soon as I started the engine. With proper
voltage to the solenoid, a new harness
and new 3-2 Control Solenoid, the only
two things left in the circuit were the
computer and the wire that connects the
computer to the 3-2 Control Solenoid.
If this were an intermittent problem
one that occurred once or twice
a day diagnosis could have taken
hours. In that case, I probably would
have replaced the 3-2 Control Solenoid
wire between the computer and the

transmission connector and gave it


a shot. But this code seemed to set
every time I started the engine.
I disconnected the computer and
turned the key on. Using a wiring
diagram, I located the computer
pin that controls the ground side
of the 3-2 Control Solenoid. There
was system voltage to this pin with
the key on, indicating the circuit
was complete. In other words,
system current was traveling from
the ignition switch through the
3-2 Control Solenoid and to the
computer seeking ground.
To test the circuit further, I grounded
this pin through an ammeter. With a
solenoid resistance of 22 ohms and 12.7

Figure 3A

volts, the current in this circuit should


be around 0.58 amps. It measured 0.56
amps.
The circuit tested good, so once
again I was looking at a possible bad
computer. But this computer was fairly
expensive so I chose an additional test
to verify the diagnosis.
Since there isnt an identical circuit
to the 3-2 Control Solenoid, I did the
same thing a different way: I cut the
3-2 Control Solenoid wire about an
inch from the computer connector and
connected the end from the computer
directly to a new 3-2 Control Solenoid.
I connected the other wire of the new
3-2 Control Solenoid through a 10-amp
fuse directly to the positive battery post.
This duplicated the entire 3-2 Control
Solenoid circuit, while eliminating the
original circuit, except the computer.
The instant I started the engine, the
code came back. Because I knew the circuit I created was good, the computer had
to be the problem. We installed a rebuilt
computer and not only was the code gone,
the engine ran like a champ. Needless to
say, the customer was very happy.
As you can see, in each of these
vehicles, I used different styles of logic
and testing to check and verify bad
computers. You can use these types of
tests for many different electrical diagnoses. The key is knowing the circuit
youre testing and test youre selecting
are valid for that particular problem.
Well thats all for this edition of
Hands-On Diagnosis. Diagnostics can
be a very frustrating and time-consuming task, but keep in mind that
with each vehicle you diagnose comes
understanding that will help you diagnose the next one.

Figure 3B

46

GEARS May/June 2007

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