Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Themainobjectivesoftheproject/internshipwere:
1. Understandingbasicprinciplesofproductionoftextiles.
2. Indepthstudyandunderstandingofallprocessinvolvedintextileproductionandthe
machineryandequipmentused.
3. Knowledgeaboutthecompany.
4. Understandingthecompanysprocessflowinproduction
5. Studytheworkenvironmentandpracticesfollowedfortextileproduction.
The project is based on two weeks (i.e., May 25, 2015 to June 6, 2015) internship in
Arvind Mills- Shirting Division, Santej (Gandhinagar) unit. It covers the information
and learning experiences related to manufacturing shirting fabrics and the the
processes involved are:
Spinning
Dyeing
Weaving
Finishing
Testing
Industry Mentor- MR. SUBHANISH MALHOTARA (Chief Manager HR)
OVERVIEWOFINDIANTEXTILEINDUSTRY
The textile industry has been gradually relocated from the developed to the developing
countries, over the last few decades. This phenomenon has increased the opportunity for
developingcountriestoboostmanufacturingandtradeintextiles.Itishighlycompetitiveandits
prospectsarecontinuouslyincreasing.
The Indian textile industry has a significant presence in the economy as well as in the
internationaltextileeconomy.ItscontributiontotheIndianeconomyismanifestedintermsofits
contributiontotheindustrialproduction,employmentgenerationandforeignexchangeearnings.
Itcontributes20percentofindustrialproduction,9percentofexcisecollections,18percentof
employmentintheindustrialsector,nearly20percenttothecountrystotalexportearningand4
percenttotheGrossDomesticProduct. Astrongrawmaterialproductionbase,avastpoolof
skilledandunskilledpersonnel,cheaplabour,goodexportpotentialandlowimportcontentare
someofthesalientfeatures oftheIndiantextileindustry.Thisisatraditional,robust,well
establishedindustry,enjoyingconsiderabledemandinthedomesticaswellasglobalmarkets.
Indiaspresenceintheinternationalmarketissignificantinthe
areasoffabricsandyarnas:
Indiaisthelargestexporterofyarnintheinternationalmarketandhasashareof25%in
worldcottonyarnexports.
Indiaaccountsfor12%oftheworldsproductionoftextilefibresandyarn.
Intermsofspindleage,theIndiantextileindustryisrankedsecond,afterChina,and
accountsfor23%oftheworldsspindlecapacity.
Around6%ofglobalrotorcapacityisinIndia.
Thecountryhasthehighestloomcapacity,includinghandlooms,withashareof61%in
worldloomage.
Indiahasthepotentialtoincreaseitstextileandapparelshareintheworldtradefromthecurrent
levelof4.5%to8%andreachUS$80by2020.
ABOUTTHECOMPANYARVINDLIMITED
TheArvindLimitedisoneofthelargesttextileconglomeratesinAsia.Itsheadquartersisin
Ahmedabad(Gujarat).ItmanufacturesarangeofShirting,Denims,KnitsandBottomweights
(Khakis)fabrics.Thecompanyhasaturnoverofapproximately$500millionandisapartof
over100yearsoldLalbhaiGroup.
ArvindranksintopthreelargestDenimproducersworldwidewithanannualproductionofover
90millionmetersofDenimFabricandExportstoover70countries.Itisalsooneofthelargest
producersinAsiaofhighvaluecottonshirtingfabrics.Ithasacapacityofaround34MMPA
(million meters per annum) of yard dyed shirting and piece dyed shirting fabric including
specialtyFinecountIndigoyarndyedandsolidShirtingfabric.Itproducesapproximately20
MMPAofPieceDyedKhaki'sfabricsandaround16TPD(tonesperday)ofKnitsFabricswhich
isverticallyintegratedintoKnitsGarments.
Arvindstartedwithasharecapitalof2,525,000($55,000)intheyear1931.Withtheaimof
manufacturing the highend superfine fabrics Arvind Limited invested in very sophisticated
technology.With52,560ringspindles,2552doublingspindlesand1122loomsitwasoneofthe
fewcompaniesinthosedaystostartalongwithspinningandweavingfacilitiesinadditionto
fullfledgedfacilities fordyeing,bleaching, finishingandmercerizing. Thesales intheyear
1934,threeyearsafterestablishmentwere45.76lakhandprofitswere2.82lakh.
Inthemid1980sthetextileindustryfacedanothermajorcrisis.Withthepowerloomchurning
outvastquantitiesofinexpensivefabric,manylargecompositemillslosttheirmarkets,andwere
onthevergeofclosure.YetthatperiodsawArvindatitshighestlevelofprofitability.Atthis
pointoftimeArvindsmanagementcoinedanewwordforitnewstrategyRenoVision.It
simplymeantanewwayoflookingatissues,ofseeingmorethantheobviousandthatbecame
thecorporatephilosophy.
The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvinds markets shifted from
domestictoglobal,amarketthatexpectedandacceptedonlyqualitygoods.Cottonswerethe
largestgrowingsegments.Butwhereconventionalwisdompointedtopopularpricedsegments,
Renovisionpointedtohighqualitypremiumniches.Thusin198788Arvindenteredtheexport
marketfortwosections:Denimforleisure&fashionwearandhighqualityfabricforcotton
shirtingandtrousers.By1991Arvindreached1600millionmetersofDenimperyearanditwas
thethirdlargestproducerofDenimintheworld.
In1997Arvindsetupastateoftheartshirting,gabardineandknitsfacility,thelargestofits
kindinIndia,atSantej,Gandhinagar(Gujarat).WithArvindsconcernforenvironmentamost
moderneffluenttreatmentfacilitywithzeroeffluentdischargecapabilitywasalsoestablished.
ArvindenteredintoexportsofgarmentssettingupShirtfactoriesinBangalorein2001.This
modestbeginninghasquicklygrowntoacapacityofaround4.50MillionShirtsperannumand
thelistofcustomersincludesGap,Dockers,Next,Esprit,FCUK,OshKoshandmanyothers.
Arvind'sentryintoJeans/PantswasdelayedduetothetightquotasituationinIndia.Itentered
intoJeansGarmentexportswithitsfirstJeansfactoryTheArvindOverseas(Mauritius)Ltd.,
Mauritius,toofferfullGarmentpackagetoitscustomersinUSAandEurope.Thisfactorywhich
startedinMarch2002wasagoodsteppingstone/pilotplantanddidprogramswithcustomers
whichincludedExpress,Next,M&S,LeeCooper,Rocawearandothers.Withtheworldmoving
intoanewQuotaFreeworld,ArvinddecidedtomovetheGarmentfactorytoBangalore,Indiain
September2004,toofferitscustomersmoreflexibilityandbettercosteffectiveness.Company's
currentJeanscapacityisaround10MillionPiecesperannum.
Year2005wasawatershedyearfortextiles.Withthemulitifiberagreementgettingphasedout
andthedisbandingofquotas,internationaltextiletradewaspoisedforaquantumleap.Inthe
domesticmarkettoo,therationalizingofthecenvatchainandthegrowthoftheorganizedretail
industrywaslikelytomaketextilesandapparelseeanexplosivegrowth.
Arvindhascarvedoutanaggressivestrategytoverticalizeitscurrentoperationsbysettingup
worldscale garmenting facilities andofferingaonestopshopservices,byofferinggarment
packagestoitsinternationalanddomesticcustomers.WithLee,Wrangler,ArrowandTommy
HilfigeranditsowndomesticbrandsofFlyingMachine,Newport,ExcaliburandRuf&Tuf,
ArvindissettingitsvisionofbecomingthelargestapparelbrandscompanyinIndia.Arvindalso
runsavalueretailchain,Megamart,whichstockscompanybrands.Arvindfeatureisthatits
enterprisesareequippedwithhighlyadvancedequipmentofafullcyclefrompaintingthefiber
tothefinishedproduct.
With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true Indian
multinational,havingchosentoinveststrategically,wheredemandhasbeenhighandquality
requirementisbeingsuperlative.Arvindhassetthepaceforchangingglobalcustomerdemands
oftextilesandhasfocuseditsattentiononselectedcoreproducts.Suchafocushasenabledthe
companytoplayadominantroleintheglobaltextilearena.Today,TheArvindLimitedisthe
flagshipcompanyof30billionLalbhaiGroup.
CurrentChairmanandManagingDirectorMR.SANJAYS.LALBHAI
Figure1:journeyofArvindLimited
In1930,theworldsufferedatraumaticdepression.Companiesacrosstheglobebeganclosing
down.InUKandinIndia,thetextileindustryinparticular,wasintrouble.Ataboutthistime,
MahatmaGandhichampionedtheSwadeshiMovementandathiscall,peoplefromallIndia
beganboycottingfineandsuperfinefabrics,whichhadsofarbeenimportedfromEngland.In
themidstofthisdepressiononefamilysawopportunity.TheLalbhaisreasonedthatthedemand
forfineandsuperfinefabricsstillexisted.AndanyIndiancompanythatmetthisdemandwould
surelyprosper.Thethreebrothers,Kasturbhai,NarottambhaiandChimanbhaidecidedtoputup
amilltoproducethissuperfinefabricandtheArvindMills(ArvindLimited)wasborn.The
besttechnologyofthattimewasacquiredatamostattractiveprice.
TIMELINE
1931
1934
With sales reaching 45.76 Lakhs, and a profit of almost 3 Lakhs, Arvind
1980
Limitedestablishesitselfamongsttheforemosttextileunitsinthecountry.
ArvindLimitedrecordshighestlevelsofprofitability.ThenewstrategyReno
vision,pointsatchangingthebusinessfocusfromlocaltoglobal,towardsahigh
1986
qualitypremiumnichemarket.
An uninterrupted record of not missing out on paying dividend to its
shareholders.
198788
FirstcompanytobringgloballyacceptedfabricsDenim,yarndyedshirting
fabricsandwrinklefreegabardinestoIndia.
ArvindenterstheexportmarketforDenimswithadualfocusDenimfor
leisureandDenimforfashionwear.
1991
AnestablishedleaderinfineandsuperfinecottonfabricsinIndianmarkets.
Arvindreached100millionmetersofdenimperyear.Arvindemergesasthethird
1992
largestmanufacturerofdenimintheworld.
TheCompanyincreasedtheproductionofdenimclothby23,000tonnesperday
1993
bymodernisingtheplantlocatedatKhatrajofAnkurTextiles.
TheCompanyproposedtoexpandthedenimmanufacturingcapacityby
85,00,000metresperannum.
TheCompanyalsoproposedtosetupanewcompositemillforproducing
annually120lakhmetersofhighqualityshirtingfabricstobemarketedin
199394
thedomesticaswellasinternationalmarkets.
FirstCompanytobringInternationalShirtbrandArrowtoIndia.
1995
FirstcompanytostartretailoutletsforArrowbrand.
Theperformanceoftextiledivisionwassignificantlyaffectedduetoan
unprecedentedriseincostofcotton.
1997
GarmentdivisionlaunchedreadytostitchjeanspackunderthebrandRuf
&Tuf.
Indiaslargeststateoftheartfacilityforshirting,gabardineandknitsisset
upatSantej,Gandhinagar(Gujarat).
ThelargestzerodischargegreeneffluenttreatmentplantinIndia.
werestrengthened.
ArvindsetsuptheantipiracycellforthefirsttimeinIndiatocurblarge
scale counterfeiting of their highly successful brands Ruf & Tuf and
Newportjeans.
Arvind Limited adopts the franchisee system for the manufacture and
distributionofRufandTufjeans.
ArvindFashions,doublesitscapacityinthestateoftheartmanufacturing
facilityinBangaloretoproduceLeejeans.
FirstIndiancompanytoverticalizethecottontextilebusinessfromcotton
fieldstoapparelretailing.
1998
1997wasalsotheyearwhenArvindLimitedstartedfacingserioustroubles
financially.
First company to introduce ERP SAP business solutions in their new
manufacturingunitinApril1998.
1999
2000
2001
LargestDenimandShirtinginSouthAsia.
Arvindsetsatwomonthdeadlineforhivingoffitsgarmentsdivisionintoa
separatecompanyandsaleofitsrealestateinDelhi.
CRISILdowngrades thedebentureissues of Arvind Limited, indicating
thattheinstrumentswereindefault.
Arvind entered into exports of garments setting up Shirt factories in
Bangalorein2001.
Arvinddefaultsona$125millionfloatingratenoteissueandputsforward
adebtrestructuringproposalthatcouldsignificantlyreduceitsdebtburden
andsharplyimproveitsfinancialhealth.
2002
Arvind Limited posts a net loss of 44.59 crore for the quarter ended
September30,2001.
ArvindenteredintoJeansGarmentexportsinMarch2002withitsfirst
JeansfactoryTheArvindOverseas(Mauritius)Ltd.,Mauritius,tooffer
2003
2004
fullGarmentpackagetoitscustomersinUSAandEurope.
Forthefourthquarter,Arvindwitnesses280%growthinthenetprofit.
ArvindLimitedisassigneda`P1+`ratingbyCRISIL,whichindicatesa
verystrongratingfortheircommercialpaper.
Companyturnsitselfaroundshowingremarkableimprovementinfinancial
performance.
2005
ArvinddecidedtomovetheDenimGarmentfactorytoBangalore,Indiain
September2004.
Arvindcreatesauniqueonestopshopserviceonaglobalscale,offering
garmentpackagestoreputednationalandinternationalcustomers.
Forthefourthquarterinarow,Arvindhasmanagedtopostaprofitgrowth
inexcessof80percent.
2007
2008
fromICICIVentures
Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by
establishingMegaMartOneofIndiaslargestvalueretailchains.
LargestportfolioofInternationalbrands:Lee,Wrangler,Nautica,Jansport,
Kipling, Tommy, Arrow, US Polo, Izod, Pierre Cardin, Palm Beach,
2010
Cherokeeetc.
Arvind Limited launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the
companysbestfabrics,brandsandbespokestylingandtailoringsolutions
underoneroof.
ArvindbecomesoneofIndiaslargestproducersoffireprotectionfabrics.
COMPANYSVISION
TheyBelieve
Inpeopleandtheirunlimitedpotential;incontentandinfocusonproblemsolving;inteamsfor
effectiveperformance,inthepoweroftheintellect.
TheyEndeavour
Toselect,trainandcoachpeopletoobtainhigherresponsibilities;tonurturetalent,andtobuild
leadersforthecorporationsoftomorrow;toreward,celebrateandactivateallintellectual
businesscontributions.
TheyDream
Ofexcellenceinallendeavors;ofmutualbenefitandprosperity;ofmakingtheworldabetter
placetolivein.
EXECUTIVELEADERS
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Corporate
Lifestyle Fabrics
Jayesh Shah
Director & CFO
Aamir Akhtar
CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim
Anang Lalbhai
MD - Arvind Products
Susheel Kaul
CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics
PD Chavda
President, Voiles
Lifestyle Apparel
Ashish Kumar
CEO, Lifestyle
Apparel - Jeans &
Shirts
DIVISIONS
WovenFabrics
SHIRTINGANDBOTTOMWEIGHTS
Arvindsexpertiseinnewageshirtingfabricandbottomweightsisunparalleled.Theirshirting
fabricshaveconsistentlyfetchedapremiuminthelocalandinternationalmarkets.Prominent
productswithinshirtingcategoryincludefabricswithnonironproperties,mechanicalfinishes,
printedfabricsapartfromthecottonandcottonblendsinLinen,Lycra,Polyester,Modal,Silk
etc.withvarietiesinyarndyesandsolids.
Thestateoftheartfacilityiscapableofproducingatotalof65millionmetersperannumof
Shirting (35 million meters) and bottom weight fabrics (30 million meters). It ensures that
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Other Chemical Finishes: Wrinkle free, Prepress, Everfresh, Easy to Iron, Stain
Repellant,NanoCare,AntiBacterial,Permawhiteetc.
MechanicalFinishes:Aero,Peach,Brush,DiamondEmeryandCarbonium.
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TheirproductrangeiscertifiedbyOekotex,processesarecertifiedbyGOTSforproducing
Organicproducts.TheyarecertifiedproducersofLycraandTeflonbasedvarieties,whiletheir
laboratoryisaccreditedbyMarksandSpencers,Next,GapInc.,Levi's,DuPontandINVISTA.
DENIMS
Thelate1980ssawArvindpioneerthemanufactureofdeniminIndia.Todaywithaninstalled
capacityofover110millionmetersperannum,Arvindisaleadingproducerofdeniminthe
world. It has an export network of 70 countries worldwide. Design, Innovations and
Sustainabilityhavebeentheircorecompetencyandhaveplayedakeyroleinthesuccess.The
useofsophisticatedultramoderntechnologyundertheguidanceofworldrenowneddesigners
hasenabledArvindtodelivermanyfirstsintheinternationalmarkets.Alltheirproductsare
designedandmodeledonthebasisofexpertdesigninputscomingfromourdesignersbasedout
ofIndia,Japan,ItalyandtheUnitedStates.AllArvindDenimproductscomewiththehallmark
ofdistinctivenessandquality.
SomeExamples:
ShuttleloomsforSelvedgedenim
NameselvedgeandStretchselvedge
UniqueFiberslikeExcel,Jute,Silk,Linen
NaturalIndigoandVegetabledyes
UniqueconceptproductslikeIndigovoiles&Handspundenim
Organic,BCI&Sustainabledenim
ThedenimfacilityatArvindisaccreditedwithISO9001,ISO14001,OEKOTEX100,GOTS,
andOrganicexchangestandard.OurlabsarecertifiedbyNABL(ISO17025certification)and
customers likeLevis,Lee,andWrangleretc.Asoneofthelargestdenimproducersinthe
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world,ArvindcaterstoqualitymarketsofEurope,US,WestAsia,theFarEastandtheAsia
Pacific.
KHAKI
ThemanyvirtuesofArvindKhakimeritundividedattention:Anannualcapacityof21million
meterswhichfacilitatesthelaunchoftwonewcollectionsannually;andthedistinctionofbeing
theonlykhakisdivisioninSouthEastAsiatodoso.
Thedivisionprovidesthefinestfabricsinthevariantsof100%Cotton,CottonRichPolyester
Blend,Cotton Lycra,CottonTencel, CottonLinen, etctonameafew.Thedivisionhas an
integratedplantwithweavingandprocessingfacilities.Themostprominentproductsinthis
rangeincludeChinos,Canvas,Ribstop,HBT,Tussore,Cavalry,StructuresandDobbies.
VOILES
Arvind has been well poised as a leading manufacturer of super fine fabrics in India. An
uncontestedmarketleaderinthemanufactureofvoiles,Arvindstillcontinuestomanufacturethe
traditionalfabricforbothdomesticandinternationalmarkets.ThelegacyofArvindtranscends
fromtheoldendaysintoagoldenfuturewithaproductioncapacityof36millionmetersper
annum.Arvindsvoilesareprimarilyusedasblousematerialandaresoldinthedomesticmarket
through an impressive network of around 150 dealers, reaching over 5000 retail outlets
throughoutIndia.HighqualitySwissvoilesareexportedtoSwitzerland,SriLankaandcountries
intheMiddleEast.
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CustomersofWovenFabrics:
BananaRepublic,BrooksBrothers,AnnTaylor,HugoBoss,CalvinKlein,PoloRalph,Eddie
Bauer,Express,JCrew,LouisPhillip,VanHeusen,Arrow,ColorPlus,Esprit,PaulSmith,Park
Avenue
KNITSFABRICS
Arvindsknitsdepartmenthasanannualknittingcapacityof5,000tons.Theknitsverticalhasa
fabricdyeingcapacityof5000tonsperannumandyarndyeingcapacityof1800tonsperannum.
Ithastheabilitytoprocessbothtubularandopenwidthfabricsandoffersspecialtyfinisheslike
mercerization,singeingandvariousformsofbrushingandpeaching.Thedepartmentalsoboasts
ofastateoftheartprintshopequippedwithfullyautomaticplacementprintingcapabilities
Basicknits:
Jersey,Pique,Rib,andInterlock
Specialtyknits:Yarndyed,Autostripers,Jacquards,andStretchfabric
Fibers:Cotton,Excel,Viscose,Modal,Polyester
Finishes:Mercerization,Brushing,Peaching,Aerofinish.
Customers:Marks&SpencerEddieBauerZaraJosephaBank
ADVANCEDMATERIALS
Arvind's Advanced Materials is a certified ISO 9001: 2008 manufacturing facility
producing high performance industrial fabrics with world class technology and
knowhow based on a strong foundation of knowledge, research and market needs.
TheyarecommittedtooffertextilesolutionsforrapidlygrowingsectorslikeGeneral
Industrialmanufacturingandprocessing,infrastructure,transport,energyandpersonal
protection.
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OTHERDIVISIONS
GARMENTEXPORTS
Aworldwithoutboundariesisapromiseofaglobalmarketplace.AtArvind,therangeoffabrics
is universal in appeal. They aim to inspire a diverse mix of customers enriching lifestyles
globally.
Bottoms:7.2millionpiecesofjeansperannum\
Formal&Casualtops:6millionpiecesperannum
Knittops:3.6millionpiecesperannum
Theirspecializedcapabilitiesforaddingvaluetoourproductsinclude;
AutomatedPlacementPrintingMachinery
IndiaslargestwashingfacilitywithTonellomachinesforwetprocesses
BohemianmachinesandLasertechforuniqueandautomateddryprocesses
Skilledartisansforhandprocesses
BRANDS
OWNBRANDS:Mainstream,ExcaliburGant,FlyingMachine
LICENSEDBRANDS:BridgetoLuxury,USA1949,Energie
PREMIUMBRANDS:Arrow,USPA,Izod,Lee,Wrangler,Ruf&Tuf,Cherokee,Mossimo,
NewPortUniversity
ENVIRONMENTALINITIATIVES
ArvindLimitedcommitsitselftocontinuallyimproveourenvironmentalmanagement.Itstrives
togobeyondtherequirementsoftheapplicableenvironmentallaws&otherregulationsthrough:
Optimizingusageofcotton,energy,chemicals&water.
Adopting preventive strategies to reduce the generation of effluents, waste & air
emissions.
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1)
Maximizingtherecyclingofinevitablewastes.
Encouragingsuppliers&buyerstobecomeenvironmentallyresponsible
Maintainingasafeworkingenvironment.
Increasingthegreencover.
Trainingemployeesonenvironmentalissues.
EffluentTreatmentFacilities:
Alltheproduction/processingunitsareprovidedwithadequatewastewater/watertreatment
facilities,tomeettherequirementsofregulatingauthoritiesaswellasourreputedcustomerslike
Levis,Nikeetc.
ArvindLimitedatSantejhasoneofthelargesteffluentrecycleplantsinAsiawithrecycling
capacity10,500m3/day.Thelatest&bestofthetechnologiesavailableinwater/wastewater
treatmentscanbeseeninoperationinthisplant.TheArvindInternational(division)hasEffluent
recyclingfacilitiescomprisingChemical,Biological&tertiarytreatmentanditisof800m3/day
capacity.TheplantalsohasISO9000&ISO14000certification.
ArvindLimitedatthemainsiteatNarodaalsopossesschemical,biologicaltreatmentfacilitiesto
treat 10000 m3/day of effluents to meet the pollution control board norms. Ankur Mills
(division) has Effluent treatment plant of 1600m3/day capacity with chemical & biological
treatment facility to achieve the pollution board norms. Arvind Limited (Garment exports
division) is setting up a new garment unit at Mysore road, Bangalore, along with Effluent
treatment plant of 1450 m3 /day capacity. This plant also possesses chemical, biological &
tertiarytreatmentfacilitiestoachievetheStatePollutionControlBoardnorms.Theuniqueness
ofthisplantisallitsprocesswaterrequirementswillbeattainedthroughrecycledsewage
waterofBangaloreCity.
2)AirpollutionControl:
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Arvind Limited has switched from liquid fuel to Natural gas for all their heating & steam
requirementsinordertoavoidtheairpollution.
3)SolidwasteManagement:
Alltheunits believeinwasteminimizationmeasures.AlltheETPplants areprovidedwith
adequate sludge Dewatering facilities. Units at Santej, Naroda, Arvind International & the
upcomingBangaloreunitareprovidedwithDecanterCentrifugesforsludgedewatering.De
watered sludge is dried in solar evaporation pans for further volume reduction. Waste oil
generatedinalltheunitsisrecycled.Polytheneliners,Discardedcontainersaredisposedoffto
therespectivebuyers.
4)
Afforestation&RainwaterHarvesting:
UnitsatKhatrej&Santejhaveverygoodafforestation&greenbelts.TheSantejunithasmore
than1lakhtrees&othershrubbery.PlantslikeJetropha(seedsusedforBiodieselgeneration)
aregrownextensively.ETPtreatedwaterisusedforthisplantationsoastominimizerawwater
consumption.BeautifullawnswithFountainsarepartofthelandscape.
AttheSantejunitgroundwaterrechargingfacilityisalsodevelopedwhereinyearlyabout40
MLDrainwaterisrechargedintogroundwatertable.Tworechargepondswithacapacityof
about 4000 m3 are made & Rainwater during the monsoon is collected in theseponds &
rechargedintoGroundwatertable.
ORGANICCOTTONPROJECT
Objectives:
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Todevelopandpromoteabusinessmodelthatisenvironmentallysustainable
Toimprovefarmproductivityandfarmerincomes
Toenhancebiodiversityoftherurallandscape
Todevelopalastingsocialinfrastructureandsupportsystemintheregion
OrganicCottonProjectwasbornfromaneedtocreatevaluethroughinnovationacrossthe
supplychainparticularlyintheareaofrawmaterialcotton.Arvindisaleadingcottontextile
manufacturerbasedinIndiawithasignificantglobalpresence.Withitsdominanceacrossthe
textilevaluechain,thecompanyendeavorstobeaonestopshopforleadingapparelbrands.In
ordertocompletethesupplychain,Arvindhasforayedintoorganiccottonproductionthrough
contractfarmingmodelinordertosourceorganiccottonthatisofhighquality;andasocio
environmental need to sustain cotton farming production in a socially fair manner that
promotestheruraleconomyandcreatesahealthyecosystem.
ArvindisworkingcloselywiththefarmersoftheVidarbharegioninAkolatogroworganic
cotton. This initiative has helped to improve the livelihood of the farmers by dramatically
increasing their peracre income.All the organic cotton produced at these organic farms is
certifiedbytheControlUnionCertification,Netherlands.
Withafocusonsecuringmoreandmoresustainablecottonsources,theyhavecloselyinvolved
their selves with the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), a Swiss association working to reduce
environmentalandsocialimpactsofcottongrowing.Theconceptistogrowcottonwithvery
carefully controlled application of water, chemical fertilizers and pesticides, dramatically
reducingtheenvironmentalfootprintofcottonfarming.Thesetechniquesworkwellinfertile
andirrigatedregionswhereorganicfarmingisnoteconomicallyviable.Theprojectcoversover
10,000acresoffarmlandsandinvolvesworkingcloselywithnearly1200farmers.
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CONTRIBUTIONTOSOCIETY
Arvindpridesitsparticipationinworksthatcontributetothebettermentofsociety.Arvinds
CSRphilosophyisbasedonthenotionthatsocietyandthecorporationareinextricablylinked,
andthatacompanycanimproveitsownfunctioningbyinfluencingtheenvironmentinwhichit
operates.ItisthisphilosophythattranscendsthroughallofArvindsCSRinitiatives.
Education
ThroughSHARDATrust,thecompanysCSRvehicle,Arvindiscommittedtoupgradingthe
standardsofmunicipalschoolsinAhmedabadandworktowardsbuildingapoolofbrightand
employableyouth.Today,over900studentseachyearfromfivemunicipalschoolsbenefitfrom
thesupplementalEnglish,MathematicsandComputereducationprovidedattheirthreelearning
centersthatareequippedwithstateoftheartfacilities.
ItcopioneeredtheworldrenownedIndianInstituteofManagement,Ahmedabad(IIMA),and
helped set up the Ahmedabad Textile Industry Research Association (ATIRA), and The
KasturbhaiLalbhaiTextileTrainingCentertodevelopandenhancetheskillsoftextileworkers.
TheNarottambhaiLalbhaiRuralDevelopmentFundandTheLalbhaiGroupRuralDevelopment
Fundwherefoundedtoundertakespecialprogramsfortheeconomicallydeprived.
Urbaninfrastructure
DevelopmentofCGroadAhmedabadsmostpopularstreetinamannerofferstheurban
dwellerandvisitoraclean,organizedandenjoyablerecreationalexperience.
Upgradingslums
Arvind in a partnership with the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation developed a model to
upgradetheslumsofAhmedabad.Theseslumshouseabout30%ofthecitiespopulationthatlive
inthemostdisadvantagedcircumstances.Inahighlydocumentedandsuccessfulinitiativea
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dwellingofover181hutments,housing1200people,wasprovidedwithimprovedsurroundings
andaccesstocleandrinkingwaterandpropersanitationfacilitiesinindividualhouses.
VocationalTraining
Weinitiatedvocationaltrainingprogrammestoenhanceanddeveloptheskillofunemployed
youth and help them take up Garment Operative jobs within Arvind and other
garmentmanufacturing firms in Ahmedabad. In another initiative, Arvind has organized
ProgrammesinEnglishandComputerApplicationequipstudentswithrelevantknowledgeand
skills and find suitable job openings for them. This enables the students to seek better
employmentandfunctioneffectivelyintheirrespectiveorganizationalroles.
ORGANIZATIONCHARTOFARVINDMILLSSHIRTINGDIVISION
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Production
Spinning
HR Department
Weaving
Material Stores
Processing & Finishing
Administration & Accounts
Quality Control
Exports and Domestic
Testing
Packaging
Engineering
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PROCESSES/DEPARTMENTSOFARVINDMILLS,SANTEJ
PRODUCTIONPROCESSFLOWCHART
23
SPINNING
WEAVING PREPARATION
WEAVING
WET PROCESSING
DYEING/ PRINTING
FINISHING
24
SPINNINGPROCESS
LAYOUTOFSPINNINGDEPARTMENT
SLEEVE ROOM
BLENDOMET
MACHINE
COTTON
GODOWN
FILTER
ROOM
CARDING DEPARTMENT
DRAWFRAMES
AUTOCORO
DEPARTMENT
AUTOCORO
STORAGE
OFFICE
25
Thecottonfibregrowsintheseedpodorboll,ofthecottonplant.Eachfiberisasingle
elongatedcellthatisflat,twisted,andribbonlikewithawideinnerhollow(lumen).Itis
composedofabout90percentcellulose andabout6percentmoisture;theremainder
consistsofnaturalimpurities.Theoutersurfaceofthefibreiscoveredwithaprotective
waxlikecoatingwhichgivesthefiberasomewhatadhesivequality.
Baleofabout165170kgcomesintospinningmill
TypesofcottonArvindMillsuse:
1. Pima(American):Itisaverystrongandextralongcottonfibre.Theaveragesizeof
thisvarietyoffiberis36mm.
2. Pima(Australian):ItisconsideredasoneofthebestvarietyofcottonbyArvind
mill.Ithasaverylowpercentageofwasteitin,mainlyconsistingofdust,seedand
metal.Itaveragesizeis32mm.
3. PakistanCotton
4. J34 SG: It is a selection from nondescriptive hirustum mixtures. Reselection from
BikaneriNarma.ItissowninthemonthsofApril/Mayandthecropisreadyforpicking
byOctober/December..J34RGandSGaregrowninthestatesofPunjab,Haryanaand
Rajasthanandtotalproductionperannumisaround2.6millionbalesofeachof170Kg.)
5. Shankar6Gujaratcotton:ItissowninthemonthofJuneJulyandisreadyforpicking
inNovemberandmayextenduptoFebruary.Itiscultivatedinanareaof4.4million
AcresinthestateofGujarat.
6. Organiccotton
a. (Organic cotton is being produced inhouse by arvind mills, and also being
procured from fully organic certified farms, as some environment conscious
customersprefertouseit.
26
b. Arvindsorganiccottoncontractfarmingprojectislocatedinthecottongrowing
beltdistrictofMaharashtra;Akola.)
5.EgyptianCotton:Seaislandcottonhavingsilky,strongfibers,grownchieflyin
NAfrica.
BLOWROOM
Blowroomisthefirststepinthespinningprocess.Thebasicfunctionofthisprocessistoopen
thefiberfirstandthencleanandmixandevenit.
Intheblowroomprocess,themachineusedisfilledwiththefibers.Thedrumcontainingthe
fibersthusmovesinarotatormotioncreatingahelicaleffectinthefiberandalongwithitthe
suctionpartinthemachinekeeponremovingthedust.Thematerialisthuscleaninthiswayand
thenitistransferredbythedeliveryhopperintothetransportationconduit.
OBJECTIVESOFBLOWROOM:
1.Toopenthecompressedbalesoffibers
2.Removedirtanddust,brokenleaf,seedparticlesoranyotherforeignimpuritiesfromthe
fibers
3.Totransfertheopenedandcleanedfibersintoasheetformofdefinitewidthuniformweight
perunitlengthwhichiscalledlap.
4.Torollthelapofpredeterminedlengthintoacylindricalshapearoundalappin.
5.Totransferthelapfromthelappintoalaprodtoasuitableandfeedittothesubsequentm/c
(carding).
27
2. CLEANING
3.DUSTREMOVAL
4.BLENDING/MIXING
Opening
Openingisthefirstoperationwithintheblowroominthefibersareopenedandseparated
fromeachother.
Thisoperationmainlyfocusesoneverysinglefibertoattainthehighestdegreeof
opennessastoseparateinsmalltufts.
Asthereisopeningoffibers,cleaningalsosimultaneouslytakesplace.
Thefibersarehandledgentlysominimumlossoffiberstakesplace
28
Machine:GBRcottonopeneropensabout400kg/hr
Cleaning
While carrying out this process it should always be kept in mind that impurities
can be removed from surface of tufts only. So after a short while, new surfaces are
made to clean the fibers properly.
Thefiberquality(shortfibers,neps)aswellasfiberlossisalwaysnegatively
affectedbymaximumtrashremoval.
Thereforeitisnecessarytomeasuretheamountofthewasteremovedandits
composition.Asitisofhighimportancealsocalledcleaningefficiency.
MachineusedinArvindMills:
Machinemanufacturer:Trutzschler(Germany)
29
Model:0522502
Pressure:5075bar
Majorparts:Twometallicperforatedcylindersandwastecollector
3.Dustremoval
Toextractthecontaminationinthecottonsuchasleaf,stone,ironparticles,jute,poly
propylene,coloredfibers,featherandotherforeignmaterialfromcottonbyopeningand
beating.
o Anoftenunderestimatedtaskoftheblowroomlineistheremovalofdust.
However,itisasimportantastheremovalofimpurities.
o Dedusting in the blow room happens by air suctioning only, either
betweenthemachines,e.g.bydustcages,dustextractors,etc.,orwithin
themachinebynormalairseparation.
o Every blow room machine must be capable of extracting dust, so that
specialdedustingmachinesshouldbeneeded.
o Theefficiencydependsnotonlyonthedevicesbutalsoonthesizeofthe
flocks.Thesmallertheflocks,thehigheristheefficiency.
Machine:
Trutzschler(Germany)
Model:
CVT41600
No.ofmachines:
Cleaningefficiency:
64%
30
Blending\Mixing
Mixing:Itisgenerallymeantastheinterminglingofdifferentclassesoffibersofthe
samegradee.g.USAPimagrade2,CIS
MachineforMixinginArvindMills:
Machine:
Model:
Motorspeed:
Openingrollsspeed:
Numberofchambers:
Output:
Pressure:
Majorparts:
Trutzschler
10236
1750rpm
800850m/min
10
3036%
350bar
Thismachineconsistsofmaterialfeed,reserve
tank,reservetankflaps,opticalsensordelivery,
rollers,andmaterialsuctionfunnel.
Blending:Itismeantastheinterminglingofdifferentkindsoffibersordifferentgradeofsame
fiberse.g.polyester&cotton,Viscose&cotton.
o Blendingoffibermaterialisanessentialpreliminaryintheproductionofa
yarn.
o Fiberscanbeblendedatvariousstagesoftheprocess.Thesepossibilities
shouldalwaysbefullyexploited,forexample,bytransversedoubling.
o However, the starting process is one of the most important stages for
blending, since the components are still separate and therefore can
bemeteredexactlyandwithoutdependenceuponrandomeffects.
31
Economy
Processingperformance
Functionalproperties
Machineforblending:Machine:BlendomatmachinebyTruetzschler
Modelno.:
BDT019/2300
Balelayout:
Bothsides(2rows)
Numberofbales:
5060
Weightofbales:
110167kg
Modeofbalelaying:
Manual
Materialinprocess:
Cottonwithseedsandimpurities
22
Evenfeedofmaterialtocard
Touniformfeedingtothenextstagesuchascardingmachine.
22
Recyclingthewastematerial
32
CARDING
OBJECTIVESOFCARDING:
Toopenthetuftoffibers
Tomakethefiberparallel&straight
Toremoveremainingtrashparticles
Toremoveshortfibers
Toremovenaps
Toproducearovelikefibercalledsliver,whichisuniforminperunitlength.
o Cardingisamechanicalprocessthatbreaksuplocksandunorganisedclumpsoffibreand
thenalignstheindividualfibressothattheyaremoreorlessparallelwitheachother.
Cardingcanalsobeusedtocreateblendsofdifferentfibresordifferentcolours.
o Cardingistheprocessofremovingimpuritiesfromfibersandproducingacardedsliver
ofparallelizedandstraightenedfibers.
33
o Beforetherawstockcanbemadeintoyarn,theremainingimpuritiesmustberemoved,
thefibersmustbedisentangles,andtheymustbestraightened.
o ThestraighteningprocessputsthefibersintosomewhatparallelCarding.
o Theworkisdonebycardingmachine.
o The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn on rapidly revolving cylinder
coveredwithveryfinehooksorwirebrushesslowlymovesconcentricallyabovethis
cylinder.
o Asthecylinderrotates,thecottonispulledbythecylinderthroughthesmallgapunder
thebrushes;theteasingactionremovestheremainingtrashes,disentanglesthefibers,
andarrangestheminarelativelyparallelmannerinformofathinweb.
o Thiswebisdrawnthroughafunnelshapeddevicethatmoldsitintoaroundropelike
masscalledcardsliver.
o Cardsliverproducescardedyarnsorcardedcottonsthatareserviceabletoproducedenim
fabrics.
MACHINESINARVINDMILLS:
Numberofmachines:
14
Make:
Trutzschler(Germany)
Model:
DK803
Humidity:
56.5%
Temperature:
33.3degreeCelsius
Production:
80kg/hr.
Cardcleaningefficiency:
6267%
CV%:
1.21.7
FrontDeliveryspeed:
210240metersperminute
Pressure:
325pas
MAINACTIONSOFCARDINGMACHINE
34
Actionbetweenfeeroller&takerin
Actionbetweentakerinandcylinder
Actionbetweencylinderandflat
Actionbetweencylinderanddoffer.
DRAWING
Drawingistheprocesswherethefibresareblended,straightenedandthenumberoffibersinthe
sliver increased in order to achieve the desired linear density in the spinning process. The
drawingprocessalsoimprovestheuniformityorevennessofthesliver.Thenumberofdrawing
passagesutiliseddependsonthespinningsystemusedandtheendproducts.
CardedSliversarefedintotheDrawFrameandarestretched/Straightenedandmadeintoa
singlesliver.Alsofibreblendingcanbedoneatthisstage.Thecansthatcontainthesliverare
placedalongthedrawframefeederrack,usuallyincludingeightpairsofcylinders(eachpairis
abovethespaceoccupiedbyacan),thelowercylinderiscommandedpositively,whiletheupper
onerestsontheloweroneinordertoensuremovementoftherelativesliverthatrunsbetween
thetwo.
TasksofDrawframe:
Drafting
Equalizing
Parallelizing
Blending
Dustremoval.
Drafting: Thereductionofweight/yardofsliverandincreaseinlengthiscalleddrafting.Or
Attenuationofsliverwithoutbreakingiscalleddraft.
35
Breakdraft:Draftb/wthe2ndand3rdrollersiscalledbreakdraft.
Maindraft:Draftb/wthe2ndandfrontrollersiscalledmaindraft.
InArvind,sliverisdrawnthroughthedrawframetwice.
Drawframeused:Padmatex,No.ofDrawframes:12
36
COMBING
Combingisanoperationinwhichdirtandshortfibersareremovedfromsliverlapbyfollowing
ways.
Inaspeciallydesignedjaws,anarrowlapoffiberisfirmlygrippedacrossitswidth
Closelyspacedneedlesarepassedthroughthefiberprojectingfromjaws.
Shortfiberwhichweremoveiscalledcombernoil.Thecombernoilcanberecycledinthe
productionofcardedyarn.Yarnwhichisgetfromcombersliveriscalledcomberyarn.Carded
sliverarecombineintocomberlapinasinglecontinuousprocessstage.Flatsheetoffiberwhich
isgetfromcomberlapisfedintothecomberinanintermediate.
ObjectivesofCombing:
1. Toremove
NecessityofCombing:
Thefollowingqualityoffiberscanonlybeobtainedbycombing
Cleanfinerfiber
Uniformityinlengthoffiber
Absenceofnap
Moreparallelarrangementoffibers
Straightfibers
37
Thesequenceofoperationinacomberisasfollows:
1.Feedingofthelapbyfeedroller
2.Thefedlapisgrippedbythenipper
3.Thegrippedlapiscombedbycircularcomb
4.Thedetachingrollergripsthecombedlapandmovesforward
5.Whilethedetachingrollerdeliversthematerial,topcombcomesintoactiontofurtherclean
thelap.Theshortfibresareremoved.
6.Whilegoingback,nipperopensandreceivesanewbitoflap.Thus,nipperholdsthematerial
whilethecombmovestoandfro.Itpullsthematerial.Therearebrushesthatcleanthe
circularcomb.
Fibresmustbepresentedtothecombersothatleadinghookspredominateinthefeedstock.This
influencesnotonlytheopeningoutofthehooksthemselves,butalsothecleanlinessoftheweb.
Ifthesheetisfedtothecomberinthewrongdirection,thenumberofnepsrisesmarkedly.
Machine: Lakshmi LK 54
Comber
No. of Machines: 10
Input: Ribbon lap/ Super lap
Output: Combed Sliver
38
ROVING
Inpreparationforringspinning,thesliverneedstobecondensedintoafinerstrand
knownasarovingbeforeitcanbespunintoayarn.Therovingframedrawsoutthe
slivertoathicknessofafewmillimetresandinsertsasmallamountoftwisttokeepthe
fibres together. The drafted twisted strand is wound onto a bobbin which is then
transportedtotheringframeandusedasthefeedpackageforspinningyarn.
It is anintermediateprocess in which fibers are converted into low twist lea called
roving.Thesliverwhichistakenfromdrawframeisthickersoitisnotsuitablefor
manufacturingofyarn.Itspurposeistoprepareinputpackagefornextprocess.This
packageistoprepareonasmallcompactpackagecalledbobbins.Rovingmachineis
complicated,liabletofault,causesdefectaddstotheproductioncostsanddeliverthe
product.Inthiswindingoperationthatmakesusrovingframecomplex.
Therearetwomainbasicreasonsforusingrovingframe
Therovingsliveristhickanduntwisted.Becauseofithairinessandflyiscreated.So
draftisneededtoreducethelineardensityofsliver.Theringdraftingarrangementisnot
capablethatitmayprocesstherovingslivertomaketheyarn.
Drawframecanrepresenttheworstconceivablemodeoftransportandpresentationof
feedmaterialtotheringspinningframe.
Themainobjectiveofrovingframearegivenbelow:
AttenuationDraftingthedrawframesliverintoroving.
TwistingToinsertthetwistintotheroving.
WindingWindingthetwistingrovingonbobbin.
packagebuilding.
SPINNING
39
Thefirststepinthemanufacturingofallkindsoffabrici.e.spinningofbalesofrawcottoninto
yarnsofvariouskindssuitedforproducingvarietiesoffabric.
TriviaaboutArvindMills:
Voilefabricismainlyusedforknittingpurposesandformakingsaristoo,butismostly
exportedtothemiddleeast.
Inadditiontocollaborationswithmultinationalapparelgiants,ArvindMillsrunsitsown
brandsofclothinge.g.ExcaliburGant,FlyingMachine,Mainstreametc.
CottonisprocuredfromahostofcountriesincludingfarflungoneslikeEgypt,America
andGermany.
Recently,ArvindMillshascomeupwithitsuniqueproduct,ReadyToStitch(RTS)kits.
Costoffabricaccountsfor~65%ofthecostofrawmaterial.
4500tonnesofyarnisspuneverymonth,anexercisethatcontributes450crorestowards
costing.
Thereareprimarilytwokindsoftechnologiesthatareinpopularusagevisavisspinningofyarn
namelyopenendtechnology,alsocalledrotorspinningowingtoitsbeingthekeycomponentin
themachinesinvolved,andringspinningtechnology.AtSantejunitofArvind,ringtechnology
isused,whichgenerallyresultsinproductionof70tonnesofyarnaday. Restoftheyarnis
requiredforfabricproduction.
InArvind,thecottonspinningisdoneusingthesetechnologies:
1. Ringspinning
2. Openendspinning
OpenEndSpinning:Inthistypeofspinning,twistisintroducedintotheyarnwithouttheneed
forpackagerotation.Allowingforhighertwistingspeedswitharelativelylowpowercost.In
rotorspinningacontinuous supplyoffibresisdeliveredfromdeliveryrollers offadrafting
systemorfromanopeningunit.
The fibres are sucked down a delivery tube and depositedin the grooveof the rotor as a
continuousringoffibre.Thefibrelayerisstrippedofftherotorgrooveandtheresultantyarn
40
woundontoapackage.Thetwistintheyarnbeingdeterminedbytheratiooftherotationalspeed
oftherotorandthelinearspeedoftheyarn.
Sliverisfedintothemachineandcombedandindividualizedbytheopeningroller.Thefibres
arethendepositedintotherotorwhereaircurrentandcentrifugalforcedepositsthemalongthe
grooveoftherotorwheretheyareevenlydistributed.Thefibresaretwistedtogetherbythe
spinningactionoftherotor,andtheyarniscontinuouslydrawnfromthecentreoftherotor.The
resultantyarnisclearedofanydefectsandwoundontopackages.
RingSpinning:
Rovingbobbinsarecreeledinappopriateholders
Guiderodsleavetherovingintothedraftingarrangements
Draftingarrangementsattenuatetherovingtothefinalcount
Thedraftingarangenmentsisinclinedatanangleof45degreesto60degrees.
Uponleavingthefrontrollersthefibrestrandistwistedtoimpartstrength
Eachrotationofthespindleimpartsonetwisttothestrand
Thetwistisgeneratedbythespindlewhichisrotatingathighspeed
Thedirectionsofthetwistiseither"S"or"Z"
Thiscompletesthespinningoftheyarn
41
Theamountoftwistinsertedintheyarniscontrolledbythefrontrollorthedelivery
speedandtravelerrationalspeed
In practice, spindle speed(n spindle) is used instead of traveler speed in the above
equation,thespindlespeedisslightlyhigherthantravelerspeed
YarnWindingisperformedsimulatenouslywithTwisting
Thedifferenceinthespeedbeweentravelerandspindlecausestheyarntowindonthe
package
Thesizeoftheyarnpckageislimitedbytheringdiameter,whichhastobesmallto
increasethespindlerotationatthesametravelerspeed.
42
WEAVING PROCESS
Theweavingdepartmenthas203weavingmachinesenToto,ofthemakeZAXand209i,the
latterbeinganolderversion.Themachines areofthecompanyTSUDAKOMA,aJapanese
concernasopposedtothespinningdepartmentwherethemachineswereofGermancompanies.
TheZAXmachinesworkat750rpmwhereas209imodelmachinesworkat650rpm.Together
theychurnoutalacm2ofclothaday.Intotalthedepartmenthas159ZAXmachinesand44
209i.Therehappentobe261labourersworkingin4shiftsinthedepartmentwith20staff
membersi.e.5ineachshift,outofwhomthereisonesupervisorforeachshift.Abeamcard
keepsalltherecordsofwhatisbeingputonthemachineandunderwhomitissupervised.
Inputsusedfortheweavingdepartmentscanvaryfrom:
1. OEopenend
2. ERevenring
3. URunevenring
Lycraisusedtoincreasetheelasticityofthefiber.Filamentisusedinthefiberwhichisexported
tocountrieswherethelevelofsweatingislowerascomparedtoIndianconditionwheremajorly
cottonisusedforthesamereason.
TheweavingdepartmenthasthedistinctionofbeingthelargestatArvindMillsandexports
closeto95%ofitsmanufacturedfabric.Discussingthedenimfabric,thecorecompetenceof
AM,originaldenimiscomposedof100%cottonbutwithaviewtobringinvariationstothe
materialinconsonancewiththeemergingtrendsinthemarket,variousnaturalfiberslikelinen
and synthetic fibers like filament, lycra, polyesterare addedto cotton. While weavingsuch
mixedfabric,thecoreismadeoftheaddendandoriginalcottoniswoundaroundit.Yarnwoven
verticallyiscalledwarpwhilethatwovenlaterallyistermedasweft.Forweavingpurposesa
cottoncountrangingfrom5to20isgenerallyused.
43
WEAVING
Weavingisinterlacementofwarpwithweftthread.
44
Figure 2 : The flow chart shows various stages in manufacturing of woven fabric:
45
WEAVING PREPARATION
RING FRAME
Yarnisthebasicbuildinginweaving.Therefore,afteryarnmanufacturing,thenextsuccessive
WINDING
stepshouldbetoweavetheyarnintoafabric.However,inpractice,
the conditionofyarn
producedonthespinningmachineisnotalwaysgoodenoughtobeuseddirectlyforfabric
formation.PackageSize,yarnsurfacecharacteristics,andotherfactorsmakeitnecessaryfor
WARP
WEFT
bothfillingyarnandwarpyarntobefurtherprocessedforefficientfabricformation.These
preparatoryprocessesarecalledweavingpreparation.
DYEING
Warpandfillingyarnsaresubjectedtodifferentconditionsandrequirementsduringweaving.
Therefore,thepreparationofwarpandweftyarnsisdifferent.Warpyarnissubjectedtohigher
stresswhichrequireextrapreparation.Dependingupontheweavingmethods,thefillingyarns
REWINDING
maynotbepreparedatall,but,rathertakenstraightoffthespinningprocessandtransportedto
theweavingprocess.However,theringspunyarnshavetogothroughawindingprocessfor
severalreasons.
WARPING
Theprocessesusedtoprepareyarnsforweavingdependonyarntypeaswell.
SECTIONAL WARPING
The warp yarn preparation is more demanding and complicated than the weft yarn
preparation.Eachspotinthewarpyarnmustundergoseveralthousandcyclesofvarious
SIZING
stresses applied by the weaving machine. Weaving stresses include dynamic
tension/contraction,rotation(twist/untwist)andclingingofhairs.Additionally,thereare
metal toyarnandyarntoyarnflexingandmetaltoyarnandyarntoyarnabrasion
DRAWING IN
stresses.
WEAVING
Theoutputofthespinningmachineryisspindlesofshortlengthyarns.Thesespindlescannotbe
usedinthenextproductionprocessbecausetheyareverysmalllengths,becausethereisnot
enoughyarnonthespindleandbecauseitssizeisnotsuitableforweavingprocesses.Winding
producesayarnpackagethatissuitableforfurtherprocessing.
46
47
Figure 3:The flowchart shows the major preparation processes for filling the warp yarns
48
Winding
Winding
Warping
Slashing
Drawing-in or tying-in
Weaving
YARNDYEING
SOFT WINDING
BATCHING
REWINDING
DRYER
YARN DYEING
HYDROEXTRACTOR
SOFT WINDING: Yarns are transferred from paper cones to plastic tubes or steel tubes
(packagedyeing)orbeams(beamdyeing).
49
BATCHING:Yar000000ebatchedaccordingtotheircount,lot,yarntypeandothers.Abatch
cardisformedwhichcontainedtheessentialinformationofthatbatch.
DYEING:Theyarnforspinningroomisinformofspinningbobbins.Fordyeingpurposes,it
hastobepackedin
Beamsarepreparedwhicharethensentforyarnbeamdyeing.
SoftPackages
Therequirementsthatayarndyepackagehastomeetcanbesplitinto2majoraspects
-
Demandsfromdyeing.
Demandsfromdownstreamprocessesandqualitycontrol.
Dyeingrelatedrequirements:
Theseincludethebasicphysicalissuesrelating tothefundamentalrequirementofeachand
everyfiberinthedyepackagetobeexposedtoanequalamountofdyeliquoroveranequal
lengthoftime,and,thus,werequire:
Uniformliquorflowwithinapackage
Uniformliquorbetweenpackages(withinbatch)
Uniformliquorflowbetweenpackages(batchtobatch)
Inotherwords,eachandeveryyarndyepackagehastoconformtoaprescribeddensityandthis
densityhastobeuniform frominsidetooutsideandfromtip totoe ofpackage. Similarly,
packagesofidenticaldensityanduniformityhavetobeproducedonanyspindleofawinding
machineatanygiventime,meaningtotalreproducibility.Thedensityofspunyarndyepackages
recommendbyleadingdyeingvesselmanufacturersis:
ForCotton:420g/l
ForCotton/Polyesterblend:460g/l
50
Sincesuchpackages,ascomparedwiththoseintendedforuseinwarpingcreelsorknitting
creels,feelspongier,theyareuniversallyreferredtoassoftpackages.
Apartfromyarndyeingthesepackagesmustalsoconformtocertainpostdyeingrequirements,
thus,
Optimumunwindingproperties
Resistanceofpackagetohandling,areequallyimportantaspectsofsoftpackagewinding.
Afterdyeing,theyarnwillbeusedineitherweavingorknitting,and,thushastobeunwoundfor
furtherprocessing.Therefore,notensionvariationordisturbedyarnlayersmustbepresent,as
thesedefectsarethemajorsourceofyarnhairinessorbreakages.
InArvindMills
Machine
SSM51
Specifications
85%efficiency
60spindles
Speed:10001100m/min.
MachineUsed:4machines
Typesofcones:PaperPlasticTube(PPT),useandthrow(135140g)
Springtubestainlesssteelreusable(165g)
PackageSize:1.2kg.
Thesesoftpackagesareusedfordyeingchecksandstripes.
BeamsforBeamdyeing
Besidestheyarnbeingwoundintheformofsoftpackages,itisalsowoundonbeamsforbeam
dyeingpurpose.Beamdyeingismainlycarriedoutifwewantonecolorinthewarpdirectionof
thefabric.Spinningbobbinsareplacedoncreels,andtheyarnfromeachbobbinisthencollected
andsenttothemachine,whereitiswoundoncylinders.
51
InArvindMills
Machine
BeamDyeingRoute
Specifications
85%efficiency
400500m/hr.speed
30kg/beammax.capacity(1160m.)
Fallerwirestopmotiondevice
Pershift24beams
Thepackagesweremountedonacreel.Eachcreelhasabout700greypackages.One
andahalfhoursarerequiredtochangethecreel.
Acreelhas700cones.Yarnfromeachconepassesthroughaspringbeforepassing
throughthedropwires.Thesespringsaresettoaparticulartensionwhichdetermines
thespeedandtensionatwhichhecheesewillunwind.
Fallerwirestopmotionmechanismisasfollows:Creelhasdropwires(hookshaped),
whichdropasayarnpassingthroughitbreaks.Asensorattached totheDyeing
Beamstopsthemachineassoonasitsensesawiredrop.
Anindicatorattachedtothesideoftherod(towhichdropwiresareattached),is
lighted,therebyindicatingthepointwhereyarnbreakageoccurs.
HYDROEXTRACTORANDDRYER:Excesswaterofthedyedyarnisremoved.
WINDING
YarnpackagescomefromthedyeingunitintheformofpackageswindedinspringorPPtube.
They cant be directly used for warping or for weft yarn on the looms. So the weaving
departmentisequippedwithwindingmachinesandautoconers.Thesemachinesarealsousedto
recycletheleftoverconepackages.Packagesthathavebeenusedforwarpingorasweftonthe
looms,(andareleftwithsomeyarnonthem)arecollectedandconvertedtobiggerpackagesso
theycanbeusedagain.
52
Windingisbasicallytransferringayarnfromonetypeofpackagetoanother.Itisanimportant
andnecessaryprocessthatperformsthefollowingfunctionsespeciallyforringspunyarns.
Windingproducesayarnpackagethatissuitableforfurtherprocessing.Ringspinning
producessmallpackagesofyarn(calledspinnerspackage)orbobbins)whichwouldbe
depletedrelativelyduringfillinginsertionorwarping.Therefore,theamountofyarnon
severalsmallpackagesiscombinedbysplicingorknottingontoasinglepackage.
Thewindingprocessprovidesanopportunitytoclearyarndefects.Thinandhickplaces,
slubs,nepsorloosefibersontheyarnareclearedduringwinding,and,thus,theoverall
qualityofyarnisimproved.Stapleyarnsrequirethisclearingoperationmostbecause
theyhavethesekindsoffaultsmostoften.
OBJECTIVESOFWINDING:
Scanning and faults removing:Electric Scanners (uster) are used forcheckingand
eliminationofyarnfaultsduringwindingprocess.ThisprocessiscalledUsterizationofyarn.
Suchfaultsarecalledscancuts.
Splicingofbrokenorcutyarn:Autosplicingisdoneforbrokenyarnpiecestoeliminate
yarnknotsandbadpiecing.
Biggerandqualitypackage:Conversionofyarnfromsmallringbobbinstobiggeryarn
conesofdifferentinternationalstandardorasperrequirementofcustomer.Duringachieving
aboveobjectivesormakingofwindingconessomefaultsarecreatedduringtheprocess.These
faultsneedtobecontrolledthroughmonitoringandcontinuousstudy.Mostofthewindingfaults
are very dangerous forthe nextsubsequent process which can be warping or knitting or
doubling.Wecanfacecomplainsfromcustomerofbreakageofyarnduringunwindingprocess.
53
In order to avoid anycomplaintsfrom customers of Arvind Mills, faulty winding cones are
separatedduringinspectionbyinspectors.Followingthreedecisionsaretakenatthisstage.
Useasitis:Whenthefaultisofsomeminorcategory,andthereisnoriskofnext
process failure during unwinding. Decision is only taken by some senior person of
quality.
Rewind:Some faults can be removed after rewinding. But rewinding itself is costly
affairandqualityofconesalsodetritusafterreprocessing.
DegradedasBgrade:Iffaultisofsuchnaturethatrewindingcantremovethatfault
andthereisdoubtforcustomerstocomplainsthensuchconesaredowngradedtolower
grade.Degradingconesintolowergradeisagainfinanciallosstothecompany.
HowqualityismaintainedinArvindMills?
Followingpointareconsideredfromqualitypointofview
Windingspeedshouldbe1200meterperminuteforgettinggoodquality.
Forgettinggoodquality,yarnfaultclearersdevicesettingshouldbeascloseaspossible
inordertoeliminatethedisturbingyarnfaults.
Inordertogetgoodqualityofyarncountchannelsettingshouldbelessthan7%.
Conewhichweprepareforweavingpurposeshouldhaveminimumfaultforgettinggood
quality,especiallyinthelongthinplacesandlongthickplaces.
For getting good quality yarn, splice strength must be 75% more than of the yarn
strength.
Spliceappearanceshouldbegood.Splicedeviceshouldbecheckedtwiceinaweek.
Togetbetterefficiency,coneweightshouldbe1.8to2.4.
Yarn winding tension mustnot be high during winding. Ifwewill keepit highthen
tensilepropertieswillbeaffectedsuchaselongationandtenacity.
Ifwaxingattachmentisbelowtheclearers,theclearersshouldbecleanatleastonceina
day.
Waxrollershouldrotateproperly
54
Properlyformedpackagesofdefectfreespunyarnareanevenmorecriticalfactor.Package
considerationincludeconditionofthepassagecore,theproperprovisionofyarntransfertails;
properlyformedsplicesorknots;eliminationofinternaldefectssuchasslubs,sloughs,tangles,
wild yarn, scuffs, etc.; and elimination of external defects such as cobwebs, abrasion, poor
packageshapeorbuild,properdensity(hardness)andunwindstability.
PRECISIONWINDING:
Byprecisionwindingsuccessivecoilsofyarnarelaidclosetogetherinaparallelornearparallel
manner.Bythisprocessitispossibletoproduceverydensepackagewithmaximumamountof
yarnstoredinagivenvolume.
Features:
Packagearewoundwithareciprocatingtraverse
Patterningandrubbingcausesdamageofpackages
Packagecontainsmoreyarn
Packageislessstable
Thepackageishardandcompact
Thepackageisdense
Rateofunwindingofpackageislowandtheprocessofunwindingishard
Theunwoundcoilisarrangedinaparallelornearparallelmanner.
Non Precision Winding:By this type of winding the package is formed by asingle
threadwhichislaidonthepackageatappreciablehelixanglesothatthelayerscrossoneanother
andgivestabilitytothepackage.Thepackagesformedbythistypeofwindingarelessdensebut
ismorestable.
Features:
Onlyonecoilisusedtomakethispackages
Crosswindingtechniqueisused
Thepackagedensityislow
55
Minimumnumberofyarniswound
Thepackageformedissoftandlesscompact
Thestabilityishigh
Flangesarenotrequired
Therateofunwindingishighandtheprocessiseasy
Thepackagesformedhavelowdensity
FORWINDING
MACHINE
Smew
NO.OFM/C
3
Muratec(Mach
Coner)
Muratec(Mach
FEATURES
HandKnotting
OUTPUT
50Cones50
Splicing
packages
50Cones50
FisherKnot
packages
50Cones50
10
2
Coner)
packages
REWINDINGOFLEFTOVERS
MACHINE
Muratec(machmini)
NO.OFM/C
2
FEATURE
15conesfrom1packageand
15packagescanbemadein
11/2hrs.
WARPING
Warpingis transferring manyyarns from creel ofsingleend packageformingparallel
sheetofyarnwoundontobeabeamorsectionbeam.Warpingmachinescanprocessalltype
56
ofmaterials includingcoarseandfinefilamentandstapleyarns,monofilament,texturedand
smoothyarns,silkandothersyntheticyarnsuchasglass.
Awarpbeamthatisinstalledonweavingmachineisknownasweaverbeam.Aweaverbeam
containthousandofends,butindenimproductionabeamobtainfromwarpingisknownas
section beam because denim is made from dyed yarn thats why first section beam can be
obtainedandthenthesesectionbeamarecombinedonthestagedyeingandsizingtogetrequired
numberofendsforweavingprocess.Indenimproductioninitiallytheyarnsarefirstdyedand
thenweavingprocessiscarriedout.
WARPINGMACHINESINSHIRTINGDIVISIONOFARVIND
BENNINGERSWARPINGMACHINE
MODEL
AGCH9240
57
Maximumcreelcapacity
640(VCreelused)
Minimumcreelcapacity
334
Speed
20/min.to1200/min.
TensionerType
Electronic
Pressure
200daNto600daN
ManufacturingCountry
Germany
NumberofMachines
58
VAMATEXWARPINGMACHINE
Maximumcreelcapacity
600(VCreelused)
Minimumcreelcapacity
250
Speed
20/min.to800/min.
TensionerType
SemiAutomatic
Pressure
200daNto600daN
ManufacturingCountry
India
NumberofMachines
UKILSWARPINGMACHINE
Maximumcreelcapacity
700(VCreelused)
Minimumcreelcapacity
350
Speed
15/min.to1400/min.
59
TensionerType
Electronic
Pressure
200daNto600daN
ManufacturingCountry
Japan
NumberofMachines
SIZING
Sizingisacomplementaryoperationwhichiscarriedoutonwarpsformedbyspunyarnswith
insufficienttenacityorbycontinuousfilamentyarnswithzerotwist.Ingeneral,whensizingis
necessary,theyarnisbeamwarped,thereforeallbeamscorrespondingtothebeamsarefed,as
soonaswarpingiscompleted,tothesizingmachinewheretheyareassembled.Sizingconsistsof
impregnatingtheyarnwithparticularsubstanceswhichformontheyarnsurfaceafilmwiththe
aimofimprovingyarnsmoothnessandtenacityduringthesubsequentweavingstage.It
improvesyarntenacityandelasticity,sothattheyarncanstandwithoutproblemsthetensions
andtherubbingcausedbyweaving.
Inthesizingprocess,acoatingofastarchbasedadhesiveisappliedtothesheetofyarnto
improveitsweavability.Itincreasesyarnstrength;italsoreduceshairiness,whichminimizesthe
abrasion that occurs between the warp threads and the various parts of loom, and between
threadsthatareadjacenttoeachother.
Arvind generally source sizing chemicals (Seycofilm, Seycobond etc.) from Refnol
Resins&Chemicals,Ahmedabad(Gujarat).
ThefourmainpartsofSizingmachinesare:
CREELThishousesthewarpersbeamsandshouldensurethatthereisauniformityof
tension throughout the ends on the weavers beam by strict controlling the tension
appliedtothesheetofyarnfromeachbackbeam.
THESIZEBOXThesheetofyarnfromthebackbeamsisguidedintothesizeliquor
where an immersion roller ensures that there is adequate facility for the yarn to be
thoroughlysaturated.Squeezerollerensuresthatthereisadequatepenetrationandexcess
isremoved.
60
DRYINGCylindersarepreferredbecausetheyaremoreefficientwhenuseinmultiples,
although when compared with hotair systems, they do tend to flatten the yarn and
requiremoresoftenerinthesizemixinordertoensureanacceptablelevelofpliability.
HEADSTOCKTheheadstockcomprisesanumberofdifferentpartsthat,insequence,
can be used for waxing, moisture regain measurement, sheet splittin, measuring and
marking,beamdrivesandstretchcontrol.
MACHINE
Hacobassuckermuller
NO.OFM/C
4
TIME
1beam11/2hrs.
61
MACHINE
BenningerGermany1996
NO.OFM/C
3
TIME
1beam50minutes
DRAWINGIN(REEDING)
Theonebyonethreadingofthewarpyarnsthroughthespacesbetweenthedentsofthe
reedisanoperationwhichisreferredtoasdrawinginorreeding.Theprocessof
passingwarpthreadsthroughhealdeyesandreeddentsaccordingtothedesireddesignis
calleddrawingordenting.
PROCEDURE:
Beamreleasedfromwarpingisbroughtinthissection.
Warpendsaredrawnthroughhealdeyesofframesasinstructedinthedraftby
Designdepartment.
Endsaresimultaneouslydrawnthroughreeddentsalso.
Endsaretakenoverserratedbarsanddroppinsareputoneachindividualend.
Theyarnsendsaretiedtogethertoavidentanglingandremovalfromhealedeyes.
Thewholeassembly(ofbeam,serratedbarswithdroppins,healdframesandreed)
isputonatrolleyandtakentoloomsbybeamgettersforgaitingbyjobbers.
62
InArvinddrawnginisdoneintwoways:
Manualdrawingin
Automaticdrawingin
MACHINE
Staublidelta200
Manualdrawinin
NO.OFM/C
2
7
TIME
1hrs.1beam
12hrs.1beam
63
WEAVINGMECHANISM
PRIMARYMOTION
Therearethreeprimarymotionsofloominaweavingcycle.
SheddingItinvolvesrisingand(or)descendingofwarpyarnstocreateaspaceamongst
thewarpyarnsforweftdirection.
PickingPickingreferstoweftinsertion.Itismeansbywhichtheweftisprojected
throughtheshed.
BeatingItispushingofnewlyinsertedpicktofellofcloth.
TYPEOFLOOM
AIRJET
RAPIER
SHEDDING
Positiveelectronic
PICKING
Highspeed
BEATING
Straightreedmounted
STAUBLIdobby
compressedair.
onsley.
type.
Positiveelectronic
Doublerapiersystem.
Straightreedmounted
STAUBLIdobbytype
onsley.
SHEDDINGPOSITIVEELECTRONICDOBBY
Dobbysystemsnormallycontrolamaximumof6to32healdshaft.
Itusescomputersintowhichdesiredliftingplanisfed.
Thisisthenenteredontoadiscthatissubsequentlyfedtothedobby,wherethepatternis
readandmemorizedbyanelectronicsystem.
Thissystemeliminatesthepossibilityofmissliftsresultingfrombrokenpegsandtorn
patternsheets.
Asadisccanberemovedfromthedobbyafterthepatternhasbeenmemorized,itcanbe
usedforanumberofloomssoremovingtheneedtomakeduplicatepatterns.
PICKINGAIRJETINSERTION
64
Highspeedcompressedairisused.
Itcouldrunathigherspeedsofaround400picksperminute.
Nowidthrestrictions.
Weftinsertionratesof1500+metersperminute.
Includesweftpatterningaswellasdobbyandjacquardshedding.
PICKINGDOUBLERAPIERSYSTEM
Workingwidthof3000nm.
Speed800metersperminute.
Weftpatterningisachieved,moreeasily.
Popularforfancyweaving,especiallywhenpatternchangesarefrequent.
Tworapiersareused.
Onecarriesthewefttothecentreoftheloomwhereitmeetstheotherandtransfersthe
gripholdonthetipoftheyarn.
Thesecondrapierthencompletesthepickinsertionastherapiersarewithdrawn.
BEATINGUP
Thereciprocatingredisresponsibleforpushingthepickintothebfelloftheclothfor
beatup.
SECONDARYMOTION
Therearethreesecondarymotionsinweaving.
Letoff:Thesheetofthewarpyarniscontrolledbykeepingitundertension.
Takeup:Theclothtakeupmotionwithdrawsclothfromthefellandthenstoresitatthe
frontoftheloom.
WeftSelection:Aweftselectionorpatterningmechanismisonlynecessarywhenitis
desiredtovarytheweftbeinginserted.
LETOFF
65
Theamountoftensionappliedtothewarpaffectstheendbreakagerate,thewarpand
weftcrimpratiosandtherebythewidthandlengthofthefabric,thegeneralappearance
ofthefabricandselvedge.
Mechanismstoemnsurethatthewarpisunderthecorrecttensionwllrestricttherotation
ofthebeameitherby(i)applyingabrakingforce(negativeletoff)or(ii)bydrivingthe
beamthroughamechanism(automaticletoff)
TAKEUP
Therearethreeaspectsofcontrollingtheclothonceitleavesthefell;
Thetemple(aclothcontrolguide,oneateithersideoftheloom)isessentialinholding
theclothcorrectlyjustinfrontofthefell.
Thepickdensityisdeterminedbythespeedofrotationofthetakeuproller.
Theclothmustthenbestoredattheloomuntilthedesiredlengthasbeenwoven.
WEFTSELECTIONORPATTERNING
Inrapierweaving,theweftispickedupbuaguidrewhichmovestheyarnacrossthepath
oftherapierheadjustoutsidetheselvedgeonthesupplysideoftheloom.
Inairjetweaving,uptofourjetpointingareusedattheentrypointoftheshed.Selection
determineswhichofthejetswilloperateandsowhichweftwillbeinsertedoneachpick.
ANCILLARYMOTION
Theancillarymotionincludes:
WarpStopMotion:Ithalttheloomwhenadropwirefallsastheresultofanendbreak.
WeftStopMotion:Ithalttheloomintheeventofabreakintheweftyarn.
InArvind,piezoelementisused.Itcreatesvibrationwhichgeneratesapulseinan
electronicunit.Ifthisunitfailstoreceiveasignalwhentheweftisbeinginserted,itwill
actthoroughtheelectronicunittostoptheloombeforebeatupcanoccur.
66
MACHINE
PICANOLAirjet
NO.OFM/C
YEAROF
FEATURES
98
CONSTRUCTION
1999
Workingwidth3400
weavingloomtype
mm,6colours,
OMNI6R340
positiveelectronic
STAUBLIdobby
type2861,upto16
shafts,380V50Hz,1
PICANOLRapier
72
2004
reed
Workingwidth3600
loomstypeGamMax
mm,4colours,
4R360
positiveelectronic
STAUBLIdobby
type2861withpre
equippedforbatching
motionbutwithout
thebatcher
67
PROCESSING
Singeing:
Thedirect,veryintensiveflame,theshortcontacttimebetweenflameandfabric,theignition
flametemperaturenecessaryforthevaporizationofpolyesterandthevarioussingeingpositions
representthedecisiveadvantagesoftheosthoffsengesingeingsystem.
Singeingpositions
ONTOFREEGUIDEDFABRIC
Flamemeetsrightangleontodensewovenfabricfreelyguidedbetween2rollers,recommended
fornaturalfibresandblendsweighingmorethan125g/m
ONTOWATERCOOLEDROLLER
Flamemeetsrightangleontothefabricbendedoverawatercooledroller.Recommendedfor
fabricsoftemperaturesensitivefibres,thoseofopenweave,blendedonesweighinglessthan
125g/m
68
TANGENTIALSINGEING
Flamepassestangentiallyoverthefabricbendedoverawatercooledrollerrecommendablefor
fabricswhichcannottoleratedirectexposuretoflameandforrepairoffilamentation
FLAMESHEARING
Flamepassestangentiallyoverthefabricbendedoverasingeingsword,withminimizedcontact
time,singeingeffectonfibretiponly
69
Companyname:
osthoffsenge
No.ofmachines:
Fabricspeed125m/min
Workingwidth:340cm
Rubberbeltsectionfacewidth2170mm
Watercoolingrollers2
Desizing
Desizingisdoneinordertoremovethesizefromthewarpyarnsofthewovenfabrics.Warp
yarnsarecoatedwithsizingagentspriortoweavinginordertoreducetheirfrictionalproperties,
decrease yarn breakages on the loom and improve weaving productivity by increasing weft
insertionspeeds.Thesizingmaterialpresentonthewarpyarnscanactasaresisttowardsdyes
andchemicalsintextilewetprocessing.Itmust,therefore,beremovedbeforeanysubsequent
wetprocessingofthefabric.
If the fabric is woven from sizedyarn,desizingisessentialbeforesubjectingittoother
treatments. For this, the fabric must be soaked in 0.5% aqueous solution of amylase
enzymefor8hoursensuringthatitiscompletelyimmersedinthesolution.Afterthesize
hasbeenremoved,thefabricissubjectedtoahotandcoldwaterwash.
70
Thefactors,onwhichtheefficiencyofsizeremovaldepends,areasfollows:
Typeandamountofsizeapplied
Viscosityofthesizeinsolution
Easeofdissolutionofthesizefilmontheyarn
Natureandtheamountoftheplasticizers
Fabricconstruction
Methodofdesizing,and
DifferentmethodsofDesizing:
Enzymaticdesizing
Oxidativedesizing
Acidsteeping
Rotsteeping
Desizingwithhotcausticsodatreatment,and
Hotwashingwithdetergents
Themostcommonlyusedmethodsforcottonareenzymaticdesizingandoxidativedesizing.
Acidsteepingisariskyprocessandmayresultinthedegradationofcottoncellulosewhilerot
steeping,hotcausticsodatreatmentandhotwashingwithdetergentsarelessefficientforthe
removalofthestarchsizes.
1.Enzymaticdesizing
Enzymaticdesizingconsistsofthreemainsteps:applicationoftheenzyme,digestionofthe
starchandremovalofthedigestionproducts.Thecommoncomponentsofanenzymaticdesizing
bathareasfollows:
Amylaseenzyme
pHstabilizer
Chelatingagent
Salt
Surfactant,and
Opticalbrightener
AdvantagesOfEnzymaticdesizing
Nodamagetothefibre
Nousageofaggressivechemicals
Widevarietyofapplicationprocesses,and
Highbiodegradability
Disadvantages:
Loweradditionalcleaningeffecttowardsotherimpurities,noeffectoncertainstarches(e.g.
tapiocastarch)andpossiblelossofeffectivenessthroughenzymepoisons.
71
2.Oxidativedesizing
Oxidativedesizingcanbeeffectedebyhydrogenperoxide,chlorites,hypochlorites,bromites,
perboratesorpersulphates.Twoimportantoxidativedesizingprocessesare:thecoldpadbatch
processbasedonhydrogenperoxidewithorwithouttheadditionofpersulphate;andthe
oxidativepadsteamalkalinecrackingprocesswithhydrogenperoxideorpersulphate.
Theadvantagesofferedbyoxidativedesizingare
Supplementarycleaningeffect
Effectivenessfortapiocastarches
Nolossineffectivenessduetoenzymepoisons.
Somedisadvantagesofoxidativedesizingincludepossibilityoffibreattack,useofaggressive
chemicalsandlessvarietyofapplicationmethods.
SCOURING
The term scouring applies to the removal of impurities such as oils, was, gums, soluble
impuritiesandsolddirtcommonlyfoundintextilematerialandproduceahydrophilicandclean
cloth.
ObjectivesofScouring:
1. Toremovenaturalaswellasaddedimpuritiesofessentiallyhydrophobiccharacteras
completelyaspossible
2. Toincreaseabsorbencyoftextilematerial
3. Toleavethefabricinahighlyhydrophilicconditionwithoutundergoingchemicalor
physicaldamagesignificantly.
Scouringprocessdependson:
1. Thetypeofcotton
2. Thecolorofcotton
3. Thecleanlinessofcotton
4. Thetwistandcountoftheyarn
72
5. Theconstructionofthefabric.
Description
and
Working
Principle
of
Scouring
Process:
Kierboilerisalongmildsteelorcastironcylindricalvesselprovidedwithtwoperforatedtube
sheets(discwithanumberofholes).Oneisplacedatthebottomandanotheristop.Thesediscs
areconnectedbyanumberoftuneswhichcarrytheliquorfromthebottomcompartmenttothe
upperone.Inthemiddlecompartmentsteamispassed.Thusthetubescarryingtheliquorare
surrounded
by
steam
which
heats
them.
Thehotliquorfromthemultitublarheaterissprayedoverthecloth,packedinthekier,througha
hollowperforatedring.Theliquidpassesslowlyoverthepackedcloth,collectsbelowthefalse
bottom,fromwhereitispumpedintotheauxiliaryheaterbyacentrifugalpumpandthecycle
repeats.
Precaution:
1. Kierboilershouldbecleaned.
2. Materialshouldbepackedevenly.
3. Completeimmersionofthefabricneed.
4. Afterboilingtheliquorshouldberemovedinabsenceofwater.
5. Beforestartingallthejoiningpartsshouldbechecked.
6. Fabricshouldalwayskeepunderscouringsolution.
BLEACHING
73
Bleachingischemicaltreatmentemployedfortheremovalofnaturalcoloringmatterfromthe
substrate.Thesourceofnaturalcolorisorganiccompoundswithconjugateddoublebonds,by
doingchemicalbleachingthediscolorationtakesplacebythebreakingthechromophore,most
likelydestroyingtheoneormoredoublebondswithinthisconjugatedsystem.Thematerial
appearswhiterafterthebleaching
DYEINGANDPRINTING
BENNINGERPADDRYCONTINUOUSDYEINGMACHINE
Brand
Benninger
Width
180cm.
Year
2002
Model
SIMATICOP27
Speed
3060meters/min.
74
BASTIAN COLD PAD BATCH DYEING
MACHINE
Mangle Pressure (L M R): 1.5, 1.3, 1.45
Cold Pad Batch: 20-24 hrs.
Threading Length: 10 m
Dyeabsorption:
Whenfibreisimmersedindyeliquor,anelectrolyteisaddedtoassisttheexhaustionofdye.
HereNaClisusedastheelectrolyte.Thiselectrolyteneutralizeabsorption.Sowhenthetextile
materialisintroducestodyeliquorthedyeisexhaustedontothefibre.
Fixation:
FixationofdyemeansthereactionofreactivegroupofdyewithterminalOHorNH2groupof
fibreandthusformingstrongcovalentbondwiththefibreandthusformingstrongcovalentbond
withthefibre.Thisisanimportantphase,whichiscontrolledbymaintainingproperpHby
addingalkali.ThealkaliusedforthiscreateproperpHindyebathanddoasthedyefixing
agent.Thereactiontakesplaceinthisstageisshownbelow:
1.DSO2CH2CH2OSO3Na+OHCell=DSO2CH2CH2OCell+NaHSO3
2.DSO2CH2CH2OSO3Na+OHWool=DSO2CH2CH2OWool+NaHSO3
3.Washoff:
Asthedyeingiscompleted,agoodwashmustbeappliedtothematerialtoremoveextraand
unfixeddyesfrommaterialsurface.Thisisnecessaryforleveldyeingandgoodwashfastness.It
75
is done by a series of hot wash, cold wash and soap solution wash.
Applicationmethod:
Theseare3applicationproceduresavailable:
1.Discontinuousmethod
Conventionalmethod
Exhaustorconstanttemperaturemethod
Hightemperaturemethod
Hotcriticalmethod.
2.Cotinuousmethod
Padsteammethod
Paddrymethod
Padthermofixmethod
3.Semicontinuousmethod
Padrollmethod
Padjigmethod
76
PRINTING
ZIMMERAUSTRALIAROLLERPRINTINGMACHINE
NUMBEROFROLLERS
12
CAPACITY
10000meters
SPEED
40meters/min.
TYPE
TRCompactHC
YEAROFCONSTRUCTION
2013
Manufacturer : Japan
No. of Rollers: 12
No. of Machines: 3
77
Manufacturer: India
Length: 18 meters
No. of heads: 12
No. of Machines: 2
DYEWASHINGMACHINE
STANDARDOPERATINGPROCEDURESFORYAMUNAWASHINGMACHINE
Reactive
Speed
30m./
Tank1
Cold
Tank2
Temp.:
Tank3
Temp.:
Tank4
Temp.:
Tank5
Temp.:
Tank6A
Cold
Tank6B
Cold
Drying
Temp.
Washing
min.
Wash
85C
Overflow
95C
Overflow
95C
Deskol
85C
Overflow
Wash
Wash
upto
Acetic
Overflow
dry
Overflow
Discharge
30
Cold
Temp:
Temp.:
Washing
m./min.
Wash
60C
8085C
Overflow
Peroxide:2
Overflow
5g/l.
dosing:
Acid
3to5
Dosing
G/L
Temp.:
80
85C
Deskol
fabric
Temp.:
Cold
Cold
Temp.
upto
dry
fabric
8085C
Wash
Wash
Overflow
Overflow
Overflow
Temp.:
Cold
Cold
Temp.
90C
Wash
Wash
upto
Dosing:
0.1to1
Disperse
25
Cold
Temp.:
Temp.:
G/L
Temp.:
Washing
m./min.
Wash
80C
70to
70to
80C
Caustic:
80C
Caustic:
3g/l
3g/l
Acid
Hydro:
3g/l
Hydro:
Dosing
Overflow
Overflow
dry
Overflow
Acetic
Overflow
fabric
3g/l
78
FINISHINGPROCESS
Thedepartmentchurnsout300000metersoffinisheddenimclothaday.Whathappenstothefabricthathascome
offloomiscalledsurfacefinishingthatentailssofteningoffabric,thusmakingitfittowear.Further,desizingis
doneinordertoreducetensionintheknityarn,toensurethatitdoesntbreakoutofunduetension.toaccomplish
theprocess,therearethreebasicmechanismsinvolvednamelydesizedfinishing,desizedmercerizedfinishingand
desizedmercerizedtintfinishing.Inyesteryears,thereexistedademandforlonglastingcolorsindenimapparel,
whichisnolongerpresent.Consumersarebecomingmoreinclinedtowardsdenimthatlosescolorinafew
washes.Forsuchemergingneedsandchoices,doubledyeingconcepthasbeenadoptedthatrendersdenimfabric
variouseffectsaftersubsequentwashes.
Theprocessisasfollows
Singeingisdoneandthehairinessofthefabricisburnedbyflames.
Desizingremovesthesizerputonbythesukermullerinthedyeingdepartmenttoincreasethe
strengthofthefabric(amixtureofdesizingagent,alcozymeandaceticacidisusedforthesame).
Mercerizingistheprocessofcausticwashandtheunitstudiesisgpl(gramperliter).
Stenterisusedtosettlethewidthshrinkageandtoadjusttheelasticitybykillingtheelastic
propertiesoflycrainthefabricwhichistothetuneof30to40%earlierandcanbedropped
downto3to8%aspercustomerrequirement.
Finishingtechniquesusedinarvindmillsare:
Glazefinishing
Padding
Curing
Montfortfinishing
Foamfinishing
Inadditionthereisaninterveningsingeingandwashingprocessthatbringsinmoresoftnessinthefabric.The
productiswashedoffwatersolublechemicalremnants,steamdriedandthencaustedthatleadtoswellingofthe
material.Earlierfoamtechnologywasusedforthispurpose,whichhasnowbeenreplacedbywettechnologythat
givesmoresoftnessandbindingtofabric.
79
Thisisthefollowedbymovingthefabricthroughcenteringmachinesthatkillextrapercentageofinbuiltlycrato
pegelasticityatthedesiredlevelasdemandedbythecustomers.Temporizingisthenextprocesstobecarriedout
withthehelpofrubberandleadstopermanentshrinkageofthefabric.
Softeningfinish:Thismachineproducessoft&smooth/silkyfeeltothefabric.
Machinename:biancalani'sairo24
Numberofmachine1
Companyname:
Model:
No.ofmachines:
biancalani
airo24
1
Airo24,fromthemastersoftheairpower,thenewrevolutioninthefabricfinishing
sectorafterAiro,airflowdryingsofteningandfinishingmachineforfabricincontinuous
andopenwidthform.
80
Microsandingfinish
Thefabricmovesunder2ormorerollerswithfineemerypaperonfirstrollertomore
abrasivepaperineachsuccessiveroller.
Abradesthesurfacecausingfibrilstosplitfromthefibres.
Abrasiongenerateheatmaycauseharshnessonsyntheticfabric.
Decreasethestrengthby60%.
Companyname:
laffer(Italy)
Model:
Waterrepellentfinish
Water
repellency
depends on surface
laffer2
No.ofmachines:
Machinetype:Diomandemmerizingcarbosent
Fabricwidth1800mm
penetrability.
Rollerwidth2000mm
Itisdifferentfromthe
waterprooffinishes,asthosefinishesareimpermeabletoairalso
Fabricresistwettingbutair/moisturecanpenetrate.
Itisachievedbycombinationoffabricstructure&finish.
Commonlyusedchemicalsare:paraffinwax,paraffinwaxwithAlorCrsalt,pyridinum
salt,reactivesiliconresins,fluorocarbonemulsion.
Thesechemicalsfillthegapsb/wyarnsinfabric.
Companyname:
Model:
No.ofmachines:
brcknerandpleva
stenterframe
1(amd)
81
Upto35%energysavingthankstoeconomicalheatrecoveryandenergysavingconcepts
Absolutelyhomogeneousdistributionofairflowandtemperatureduetothealternating
airflowinthethermozones(every1.5m)
Theflexible splitflowaircirculationsystemallowsaprocesscontrolwhichisfine
tunedtotheparticularfinishingrequirementsofallkindsoffabric
Optimumstraighteningresultsduetoaninnovative,integratedstraightenerwithshortest
possiblefabricpathtothepinonpoint
Extremelyrobustandlowmaintenancechains,chainrailsaswellaspinbarcarriersand
clips
Exactly reproducible finishing results thanks to full automation and the recipe
administrationoftheline
Calenderingfinish
Compressionofthefabricb/w2heavyrollstogiveflattened,smoothappearanceofthefabricbythe
actionofheat&pressure.
Surfaceoftherollercanbeeithersmoothorengraved.
Onerollisusuallymetalandtheotherisusuallycoveredwithpaperorfabric.
Moistureintheformofwaterorsteammaybeusedtoachieveadesiredluster.
Resinsrequiredtobeusedtomakecalendaringdurableoncellulosicfabrics.Withouttheresintheeffect
lastsonlyonelaundering
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Companyname:
Model:
ramischguarneri
Nipcoicalender
No.ofmachines:
Fabricspeed70m/min
Type:3rollsystemwith2cottonrollsandonesteelroll
Temperature70C
Pressure70N/mm
83
Thismachineisatypicalexampleofanunusuallyflexibleandefficientcalendersolution.itsadvantages
lieinitsdiverserangeofapplications,particularlywhenspecialeffectsarerequired,e.g.Smoothness,
lustre,highglazeandairpermeability.aninnovativedevelopmentwithsignificantefficientbenefits,the
hydropneumaticwidthadjustment,whichcanberesetinaflyingchangewhenoperatingpressureor
fabricwidthschange.
Thisreducesnonproductivetimes,makesproductionevenmoreflexibleandincreasesefficiency.
FlameLaminationfinish
Flamelaminatingmachinesareusedtojointhermoplasticmaterialslikefoammadeofpolyester,
polyether,polyethylenorvariousadhesivefoilsandtextile,pvcfoils,artificialleather,nonwovens,
papersorothermaterials.
Dependingonthemachineconstruction,singleorsandwichlaminationscanbemade.Thematerialsare
takenfrombalesorplates(flatbaselaminatingmachine).
Alinegasburnerwhichisinstalledacrossthewholeworkingwidth,ismeltingthefoam,resultinginan
adhesivefilm.Insidethecalander,thefoamandthetopfabric,resp.Thebackliningarepermanently
joinedtogetherwhenrunningthroughthelaminatinggap.
Companyname:
Schmitt
No.ofmachines:
Fabricspeed60m/min
Workingwidth:upto2000mm
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Shrinkagecontrolfinish
Itispreshrinkingfinishing
Impartshrinkagetothefabricandimprovelusterofthefabric.
Maximumshrinkageisfirstcalculated.
Fabricdampenedandpassedthroughcontinuousthickrubberbeltwherepreshrinkingtakesplacewhich
isfurthersetbywoolen/feltblanket.
Companyname:
monfortsmonfortexsanforiser
No.ofmachines:
Fabricspeed50m/min
Workingwidth:2000mm
Rubberbeltsectionfacewidth2170mm
Watercoolingrollers2
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Chemicalpadding:
Thedenimfabricisthenpaddedtoapplyfinishtothefabric.Herethefabricpassesintoafullimmersionpadand
finishisaddedathighwetpickup.Thefinishisnecessarytoproperlylubricatefabricforthesubsequentskewing
operation.
Desizing(dhall):
Continuousdesizingrangesaresuitableforeliminatingthesizematerialfromdenimfabricwiththehelpofrapid
enzymesintheimpregnatortank.Itisthendevelopedinthesteamerforsuitabletime.Itisthensubjectedto
intensivewashing,andfollowedbycylinderdrier.theinletisintoscray
Skewing:
Afterchemicalpadding,thefabricisstretchedbypassingthroughtwopullingdevicesandthenpassesthrougha
skewingunit,whereitisskewed.now,skewingbeinganimportantissueshallbedealtwithmoredetails.
Skewnessintwillfabric:theskewnessindenimfabric,particularlyintwillweavecreatesaseriousproblem
insubsequentgarmentmanufacturinganditswashing.Legtwistisamajorproblemindenimmanufacturing.Due
tothisproblemthelegisrotatedintheoppositedirectionofthetwillofthefabricafterlaundering.
Legtwistisassumedtobehappenduetothedirectionalyarnstresses.theseareinherentinregulartwillweave
fabricsanddevelopedduringweaving.Duringwashingtheyarnstressesisrelaxedwhichchangetheregular
positionofinterlacementbetweenwarpandfillingyarns.Duetothisreasonthelegsaretwisted.Normallyleg
twistnotshownongarmentstage.
Itonlyobservedafterlaunderingofthegarment.Althoughlegtwistappearsafterfirstlaunderinganditincreases
progressivelywithrepeatedlaunderings.ideallywarpandweftshouldbeatrightangletoeachotherinnormal
fabric.Skewinthefabricoccurswhenthewarparedisplacedfromtheirverticalpositionorwhentheweftare
displacedfromtheirhorizontalposition.
Wovenfabricskewness
Thedegreeofskewmovementdependsuponyarncharacteristics,weavingtensions,andthefabricstructures
Predrying:
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Thefabricisthenpassesthroughdryingcylindersforpartialdryingofthefabric.Here7585%moistureare
removed.Thesteamcylindersdrivemoistureintothecoreoftheyarnsandreducingittothe1517%whichis
requiredforoptimalsanforizing.
Compressiveshrinking:
Subsequently,thedenimfabricpassesthroughacompressiveshrinkingunitwherethedenimfabricispreshrunk
accordingtothegreypotentialshrinkageofthefabric,sothattheresidualshrinkageshouldbeundertolerance
limit.100%cottondenimmayrequireabout14%moistureforeffectivepreshrinkage.Moistureshouldbe
uniformthoroughoutthelength,width,anddepthoffabricforeffectiveshrinking.thecompressiveshrinkageunit
consistsofaheatedandpolishedstainlesssteelcylinder,tensionroller,pressurerollerandguiderollers.Boththe
tensionrollerandthepressurecanbeadjustedasperrequirement.Arubberbeltcoolingdeviceisfittedwitha
watersprayingarrangementonbothfacesoftherubberbelt.Rubberbeltunitisequippedwithbeltgrindingroller
andasuctiondevicefordustremovalfromthebeltgrindingdevice.
Palmercylinder:
Afterthecompressiveshrinkageunit,thefabricispassesthroughapalmerunit,wherethefabricisdriedandiron.
Thefunctionsofthepalmercylinderis:todrythedenimfabrictoalevelofabout4%relativehumidityandset
shrinkage,adjusttheshrinkage,tocompareincomingandoutgoingfabrictensionanddeterminefabricshrinkage,
Ithelpsinpreciseadjustmentoffabricshrinkage.Itpullsthefabricandpreciselycontroltensiononthefabric.it
givesapressingandcalendaringeffectonthepreshrunkfabric
Stainresistancefinish
Arvindmillsisoneoftheveryfewmillsintheworldtohaveachievedsuchsuperiorstain
resistantfinisheswithhighdegreeofpostgarmentwashperformance.Thoughthescotchgardtm
rangeofchemicalshavebeeninthemarketforover40years,veryfewcompanieshavebeen
abletoachievesuchoutstandingstainresistantpropertiesoncottonfabrics.
Coolingunit
Attheexitofthepalmerthereisacoolingcan.Theunitconsistsofone,twoorthreestainlesssteeljacketed
cylindersequippedwithchilledwatercirculationtocoolthehotfabricasitcomesoutofthepalmerunit.
Deliveryunit
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Thedeliveryunitconsistsofbigbatchingarrangementandaplaitingdevice.Astainlesssteelscraycanbe
equippedforcontinuousoperation.
Technicaladvancementsinfinishing
Arvind Ltd has diversified into the Advanced Textiles Business and has envisioned world
leadershipinthefieldofadvancedmaterialsofferinghightechtextilesolutionsforcriticaland
compositeapplications.
ToservicethisemergingmarketArvindhassetupastateoftheartmanufacturingfacilityat
Santejformanufacturing highendIndustrialFabrics.Thisfacilitycanmakeproducefabrics
fromhighperformanceMultifilaments,MonofilamentsandSpunYarns.Typicalapplication
will be in SolidLiquid Filtration, Industrial Belting, Coating Substrates, Outdoor and other
Industrialapplication.IthasfurtherdiversifiedintomanufacturingofAntiBallisticfabrics,for
useinBulletProofVestsandHelmets.ArvindoffersrangeofNylonfabricsforthedefence
applications.
Arvind'snewfacility(JointVenturewithPDGroup,Germany)tomanufactureGlass,Carbon
andAramidfabricsisundercommissioning.ThesefabricswillbewovenandMultiaxialasper
customerspecifications,whichwillbesolutionstovariousindustrialandadvancescomposite
applicationslikewindmillblades,automotive,aerospace,infrastructureetc.
AboutPRO1
Pro1 range of branded fabrics and composite textiles includes solutions for growing
industrialsectorslikePersonalProtection,IndustrialFiltration,WindEnergy,Defense,
AutoComponents,Transportation,andHousing&Infrastructure.
ForthefirsttimeinIndiaArvindintroducesProbanfabricswhichcomewithreliability
assurancefromRhodia,UK.ProbanmeetsInternationalFireSafetyStandardssuchas
EN533/ISO14116:2008,EN531/ISO11612:2008,NFPA70E,NFPA2112.Probanhas
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provenperformanceformorethan50yearsnow.ArvindLimitedistheonlylicensed
manufacturer of this product for sale in select 17 countries in Asia Pacific, North
America,SouthAmerica,Canada&SouthAfrica.
Inashortspanoftime,ArvindhasestablisheditselfasthelargestFireProtectionFabric
producerinIndia.ApartfromPROBANArvindrangeofFireResistantFabricsconsists
ofPYROVATEX,MetaAramid(NOMEXfromDuPont),Modacrylics,FRViscoseand
itsblends.
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PRO1RangeFireProtectionSolution
ChemicallyTreatedFlameRetardantFabrics
PROBAN
Arvind has been licensed by Rhodia, Novecare to manufacture and sell PROBAN treated
fabricsandgarmentsin17countriesofAsiapacific,NorthAmerica,SouthAmerica,Canadaand
SouthAfrica.PROBANgivescottonandcottonrichfabricsdurableflameretardantproperties
thatmeetEuropeanfiresafetyregulationsandofferprotectionforthelifetimeofthearticles.
Thereisnochemicalreactionwithinthefibrehencethefabricremainsunaffected.Everylotof
PROBAN treated fabric ofArvind is tested andcertified byRhodia's UKAS & ISO 17025
accreditedfacilitiesintheUKandmeetsthestringentrequirementofthelateststandardsofISO
11612.
PYROVATEX
PYROVATEXTreatedFabricsoffersprotectionagainstflame.Thesefabricsareavailablein
combinationofcotton,cotton/Nylonblend.Arvindisexpertiseintreatingcottonfabricsensures
that PYROVATEX Fabrics maintain their original softness and comfort to wearer.
PYROVATEXTreatedFabricsassureslonglastingFRproperties.ArvindoffersPYROVATEX
Fabricsincombinationwithantistatic,waterandoilrepellentfunctionalitypermittingcreationof
multifunctionalfabrics.
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InherentFireResistantFabrics
NOMEX
ArvindhasbeenlicensedtomanufactureandmarketNomexbrandedfireresistantfabricsand
garments by E.I.Dupont for consumption within Indian sub continent. These fabrics have
excellentFRperformanceforthelifetimeofthearticlewithgoodcolorfastness.Ithasverygood
resistancetochemicalandexcellentthermalinsulationproperties.Nomexmeetsthestringent
requirementsoffiresafetystandardssuchasISO11612,ISO14116,NFPA70EandNFPA
2112.
PROTEX
ArvindusesinherentlyflameretardantPROTEXModacrylicFiberfromKanekaCorporation,
Japan.ItexhibitsahighLOIvalueandisdesignedtoblendperfectlywithnaturalormanmade
fibrestoproducehighqualitytextileswithsuperbhandle,drapeandappearance.Itdoesnotmelt
ordripwhenignited.Protexblendedfabricwillselfextinguishandcharbarrierwillformthat
worksasashieldtominimizefiredamage.Itisalsoavailableinhivisibilitycolourscertifiedas
perEN471standard.
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PRO1RangeHighTechFabrics
FiltrationFabric
Arvindspecializesinmanufacturingwovenfabricsforsolidliquidseparation.Thesearemadeof
multi filaments, monofilaments, spun yarns and in combinations. Latest generation
manufacturingtechnologyhelpsinmonitoringtheconsistentpermeabilityinthefabricsforthese
criticalapplications.Arvind'sfiltrationfabricshavereputationofuniformdistributionofpore
size,dimensionalstabilitybetterstrengthanddurability.
AntiBallisticFabric
Arvind'santiballisticfabricsaremadefromworldfamousTWARONParaaramidfilaments
suppliedbyTeijinAramid,Netherlands.Arvindmakes1100dtexand3300dtexplainwoven
fabrics. These are used for manufacturing Bullet Proof Vests and Bullet Proof Helmets for
defenceapplications.
NylonandOtherIndustrialFabrics
ArvindmanufacturesfabricsmadeofhightenacityNylon6/Nylon6.6filaments.Thesefabrics
aresometimescoatedorlaminatedasperspecificrequirementsindefence,outerwearandhigh
altitudeclothing.
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Arvind also offers fabrics for other industrial applications like Belting, Coating Substrates,
Outdooretc.
Carbon,Glass&AramidFabrics
Arvind'snewfacility(JVCompanywithPDGroupGermany)offerswovenandmultiaxial
fabricsolutionsmadeofGlass,CarbonandAramid.Thisfacilityprovidestextilesolutionsto
various industrial and advanced composite applications like wind mills blades, automotive,
aerospace,infrastructureetc.
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Glasswovenrovings:ThesearecomposedofdirectRovingswoveninto
a fabric. The input Rovings have excellent wetout and laminate properties. A variety of
constructionsgivebidirectionalreinforcementandthestrengthofcontinuousfilaments.Woven
Rovings from Arvind PD Composites is ideal for hand and machine production of boats,
containers,automotiveparts,sportsequipment,corrosionresistanttanks,etc,.Therangeincludes
widthupto3.6mfromavarietyofRovingsofdifferenttex.
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Heatandcutresistantfabrics: Heat&Cutprotectionfabricsare
manufacturedusingKevlarparaaramidstaplefiberfromDuPont.Arvindistheexclusive
licenseeformanufacturingKevlarfabricsforHeat&Cutprotectionapplicationslikehand
gloves,aprons,safetyshoes,garmentreinforcementsetc.Thesefabricsareavailableinboth
Woven(330gsm,450gsm,600gsmand750gsm)andKnits(210gsmRib,270gsmdoubleknit
withcotton)forms.ThesefabricsaretestedasperEN388(Cutresistance)andEN407(contact
heat)standards.
PRODUCTIONPLANNINGANDCONTROLDEPARTMENT
TheproductionPlanningandControldepartmentistheonethatmaterializestheproductionflow
andmonitorsit.Themainobjectiveoftheproductionplanningdepartmentistoexecutemass
production.Thedepartmentplanseachandeverystepoftheproductionprocess,anditisits
responsibilitytodeliverhighqualityproductsatthepromisedtime.
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Sometimesthebuyerselectsthedesignsthathewantstogetmassproducedfromthefabric
databaseofover8000designcollectiondevelopedbytheresearchandDevelopmentdepartment
ofArvindMills.Thespecificationsandproceduresforsuchdesignsarealreadylistedinthe
databaseandnowtheworkofthePPCdepartmentistoefficientlycarryoutthoseprocedures.
Othertimesthecustomersendssamplesandrequiresthemassproductionforit.Insuchcases,
theResearchandDevelopmentdepartmentdevelopstheproceduresinvolvedforproductionof
thatsamplebyreverseengineering.
The PPC department then allots the machinery and time required for fulfillment of each
procedureaccordingly.TheleadtimeisalsodecidedbyPPConthebasedofordersize,machine
availability,profitsinvolvedandtheurgencyaspertheconsumer.
Incaseofordersoflowerquantities,thePPChastostrategisetheexecutionoftheorderandplan
whetherornottoacceptit,sincedyeingmachinesofslasherandropedyehavelimitationsasto
theminimumamountofdyeing,forbestresultsandavoidanceofwastage.
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The PPC department also plans separately for orders of export and domestic market as the
demandvaryfromregiontoregion.Thebottleneckoperationthatdeterminestheleadtimefor
theproductionistheweavingprocedure.Theloomcapacitydependsonthefollowingfactors:
Constructionoffabric
LoomSpeed
Efficiency
Theproductionplanningteamneedstocoherentlyworkondecidingwhetherthecapacityofthe
plantisenoughtofulfilltheorderinthegivenleadtime.
Usuallytheleadtimeforanyparticularorderis50to55days,includingallqualitychecks
inspectionetc.
Thethumbruleforcalculationofleadtime:
Prespinningprocedures:3days
Spinning:1520days
Warpinganddyeing3days
Foreveryweavingcycle3to4days(weavingcyclesdependontheorderquantity
andabovementionedfactors)
Usuallyforoneorderabout8to10weavingcyclesrequired
Finishingprocesses1dayforeachprocess,ifnotcoveredintheintegratedfinish
processingmachine
Inspection2to3days
Washing2to3days
COSTING
Spinning:
Rs1.10/kg/count(avg.weight650gram/mtr)
Weaving:
Rs0.21/pick
Dyeing:
Rs4/mtr
Finishing: Rs0.04/mtr
Coating:
Rs4/mtr
Power:
Rs2.25/unit
Laborwage:Rs6000to8,500/month
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Inspection:Rs0.65/mtr
RAWMATERIAL:
Cotton
100kilocotton=88kiloofyarn(forcombedyarn)(75%yarnrealisation)
Loss:1%sizing,2.3to2.5%weaving,1%warping(total4to4.5%)
TheproductionplanningprocessforshirtinginArvindisdoneonexcel.Thoughanattemptwas
made previously toemploy anERP system, theproject failed causing major loss ofcapital
becauseanERPsystemdoesnotworkforsuchahugecompanywithsuchdiversificationinthe
process.
Processcontrolisnotpossibleaseachorderhasadifferentrequirementandhenceadifferentset
ofprocessestobeexecuted.Moreover,theleadtimeandcostcalculations,thataresupposedto
betakencareofbytheERPsystem,cannottakeintoaccountofallthepossiblefactorsataplant
ashugeasArvindShirtingunit.
QUALITYASSURANCEDEPARTMENT
Inthemoderndayqualityassurancehasawiderscopeanditincludesactivitieslikeprocess
ownership and calibration where in the department ownership is given to a person and it
becomeshis/herdutytodealwithitinthemostefficientmanner.
QualityassuranceatArvindmillshasthefollowinglabs.:
1. Cottonlaboratory
2. Physicaltestinglaboratory
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3.
4.
5.
6.
Chemicaltestinglaboratory
Callibarationlaboratory
Colourquestlaboratory
Clearancedepartment
COTTONLABORTARY:
Cottonisheldforthe70%costofthefabriccostonlyandhencebecomesamajorfactor
whichifcontrolledwilladdmaximumcontributiontothestrengthofArvindmills.
Thecoefficientofvarianceiscalculatedforthewidth,diameterandhairinessofthefibre.
ThemachineusedforthispurposeisUSTERTESTER5.thefibreispassedataspeedof
400m/min and the variance is hence calculated. The variance is calculated against
internationalorthepresetArvindstandards
Thelength,weightandtheexactcountofthefibreisalsocalculatedandtheCASCADE
machineisusedforthispurposewhichensuredtherightthingattherighttimeasper
customerdemands.
PHYSICALTESTINGLABORTARY
Thistestinghappensattheyarnmanufacturingstageandtheyarnistestedforits
1. Length
2. Elongation
3. Elasticityetc
Theyarnshouldbetestedinawaysoastoknowwhethertheyarncantakeallthe
loadingsornotandifyestowhatextentcanittake.
Thishelpsindecidingwhatprocessestheyarncanfaceandwhateffectscabbe
deduced.
SingleyarnstrengthanditselongationsismeasuredusingtheUSTERTENSORPAID3machine
whichisthemosttrustednameinthefieldandcomesfromSwitzerland.
INSTRON4465isusedtocheckthetensilestrengthofthefibreandthetearstrengthisalso
calculatedingrams.
Foralltheabovewrittentestingsthestandardlabconditionsaremadeatatemperatureof60+/
2fandthehumiditylevelismaintainedat65%+/2%
Factorslikestretchabliltyskewandshrinkagearetestedaftermarkingisdonefollowedbythree
washingsofthefabric;thefabricistonnedtotheenvironmentafterkeepingitinthestandard
environment.
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CHEMICALTESTINGLABORTARY:
Inthechemicallaboratorytheycheckallthefuels,dyes,andallthechemicalsthatareusedin
theproductionprocess.Theyevencheckthedenimifitiswashedwithbleachhowmuchitfades
thecolour.Theytrydifferentprocesslikehowthedenimwouldreactindifferentconditionslike
incaseofperspiration,saltwater,normalwater,inextremetemperature.
COLOURQUESTLABORTARY:
Inthecolourquesttheytrytofindoutthedifferentshadesandtheyseetoitthatafterthe
washinganddryingprocessdoestheshadematchtherequirementofthecustomerornot.
CALIBRATIONLABORATORY:
Definition:
Calibrationisaspecializedmeasurementprocesswhereinonecomparestestandmeasuring
instruments/equipmentsofunknownstatustowelldefinedstandardsofgreateraccuracyinorder
todetect/eliminateerrorbyadjustments&reportanyvariationinaccuracycapability.
CALIBRATIONACTIVITY
Calibrationthroughinhousefacility
Calibrationthroughoutsideagencies
93%
7%
CALIBRATIONFACILITYATCALIBRATIONLABORATORY
PARAMETERS
INSTRUMENT&FUNCTIONS
Temperature
Mercurythermometer,temperatureindicator&controllers,temperature
switches,temperaturegauges,temperaturetransmitters.
Pressure
Pressuregauge,vacuumgauge,pressuretransmitter,pressureswitch.
Mass
Analyticalweighingbalance
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Electrical
Dimensional
Measuretape,steelscale,verniarcapture,micrometer,dialgauge.
Gaslabinstruments
Labinstrumentsusedforqualityconformancetests&physicaltesting
lab&chemicaltestinglab.
CHECKPOINTSINGREYFABRICINSPECTION(ARVINDSHIRTING):
LoomStopMark
MorePick
DoublePick
TightWarp
PackageChange
SloughOff
BrokenPick
TemperatureCrack
MultiBreak
Black/OilStain
101
PROFORMAOFFABRICINSPECTIONREPORT(ARVINDSHIRTING)
ARVINDLIMITED
QUALITYASSURANCEDEPT.
ARVINDSHIRTING
P.O.Khatraj,Tal.Kalol,Dist.Gandhinagar,Pincode382721,Gujarat,India
FABRICTESTRESULTS
S.O.NO.
I.B.NO.
COUNT
CUSTOMER
SHADE
FINISH
DESCRIPTION
MTRS.
PHYSICALTESTS
Test
Method
Std.
Unit
Result
Notes
102
Warp
Threads/Inch
Weft
FabricWeight
OverallWidth
UsableWidth
TensileStrength
ASTMD5034
G/m
Cm.
Cm.
Kg.Warp
ASTMD1424
Weft
gWarp
ASTMD434
Weft
KgWarp
Dimensional
AATCC135
Weft
%Warp
Stbility
Martindale
ASTMD4996
Weft
Revs.
TearStrength
SeamSlippage
ASTMD3776
Abrasion
COLORFASTNESSTESTS
ColourFastness
Washing@49C
Water@37C
DryRub
WetRub
HeatDrypressed
Acidperspiration
AATCC612A
AATCC107
AATCC8
AATCC8
AATCC133
AATCC15
4C,3S
4C,3S
4S
3S
5C
4C,3S
OTHERREQUIREMENTS
Crease
AATCC66
Recovery
WarpFF
BB
WeftFF
BB
DPRating
Bow/Skew
AATCC124
%
Pass/Fail:TestedBy:
HEADOFDEPARTMENTDate:
103
MACHINESUSEDFORQUALITYTESTING
104
SPECIFICATIONS
Four Chamber (PT-4)
Dimensions: 47 cm x 68 cm x 39 cm
(18.5 W x 26.8 H x 15.5 D)
Accreditations
TEST CHAMBER
(4 cfm @ 3 psi)
Iso9001:2000Bybvqi (india) pvt.Ltd., mumbaiindia, formanufacture andsupply of
denimfabrics.the
Iso9000
Family of standards is related to quality management systems anddesigned to help
organizationsensurethattheymeettheneedsofcustomersandotherstakeholdersWhile
meetingstatutoryandregulatoryrequirementsrelatedTotheproduct.
Iso9001:2000versionsoughttomakearadicalchangeinthinkingbyactuallyplacingthe
concept of process management front and center ("processmanagement" was the
monitoringandoptimisationofacompany'stasksandactivities,insteadofjustinspection
ofthefinalproduct).
Is014000:
105
106