MAHARASHTRA

1. Zardozi or Zari or kalabattu

The most opulent form of Indian embroidery is the Zari and the Zardozi, known since the late 16th
century, brought in India by the Moghul invaders. The word Zardozi comes from the two Persian
words Zar=gold and Dozi=embroidery. This form uses metallic thread. Once real gold and silver
thread was used, on silk, brocade and velvet fabric. Metal ingots were melted and pressed through
perforated steel sheets to convert into wires, which then were hammered to the required thinness.
Plain wire is called "badla:, and when wound round a thread, it is called "kasav". Smaller spangles
are called "sitara" and tiny dots made of badla are called "mukais" or "mukeesh".
Zardozi is either a synonym or a more elaborate version of zari where the gold or silver embroidery
is embellished with pearls and precious stones, gota and kinari, making this art only affordable by
rich people. Nowadays Zardosi thread has a plastic core and a golden-coloured outside. The thread
consists of coiled metal wires placed on the right side of the fabric and couched with a thinner
thread.

Gara embroidery

made its journey from China to the shores of India

hundreds of years ago. Trade plying between China and the Persians in India made
the art form more visible and accessible outside its country of origin. Due to the
fusion of the two cultures, the Chinese embroidery was later adapted onto saris.

The earliest garas were embroidered on all four borders, a custom which gradually
gave way to two, given the draping of saris. The Persian influence made itself felt in
the fruit, flower and bird motifs interspersed on a distinctly Chinese background. So
intricate is the embroidery, in terms of aesthetics as well as symbolism, that legend
has it that children in China would sit with their grandmothers and mothers, and
listen to stories that unfolded on the gara. Tales of kings and fishermen, romance
and riches, were all painstakingly rendered through the embroidery. Modern
versions of the traditional gara incorporate traditional motifs with Swarovski crystal
and touches of gold and silver interweaving.

WEST BENGAL
Kantha (Bengal)
It is an embroidery on many layers of cloth (like quilting), with running stitch. It is also known as
Dorukha (= designs/ motifs are equally visible in both side, there is no right or wrong side so both
side usable ). Traditionally, worn out clothes and saris were piled together and stitched into quilts.
Rural Bengali women still do this with cotton saris, the embroidery thread being taken from the sari
border. It started as a method of making quilts, but the same type of embroidery can also be found
on saris, salwar suits, stoles, napkins, etc. Themes include human beings, animals, flowers,
geometric designs and mythological figures.[2]
Different types include Sujani kantha, Durjani kantha, Lep kantha, Archilata kantha, Rumal kantha
and Oaar kantha.

PUNJAB
Phulkari (Punjab and Haryana)[edit]
Phulkari (Phul=flower, Kari=work) is the most famous rural embroidery tradition of Punjab,
mentioned in the Punjabi folklore of Heer Ranjha by Waris Shah. Its present form and popularity
goes back to 15th century, during Maharaja Ranjit Singhs reign [5] Phulkari also means headscarf,
and it comes from the 19th century tradition of carrying an odhani or a head-scarf with flower
patterns. Its distinctive property is that the base is a dull hand-spun or khadi cloth, with bright
coloured threads that cover it completely, leaving no gaps. It uses a darn stitch done from the wrong
side of the fabric using darning needles, one thread at a time, leaving a long stitch below to form the
basic pattern.[6] Famous for Phulkari are the cities of Gurgaon (Haryana), Karnal, Hissar, Rohtak and
Delhi
Bagh: An offshoot of phulkari and almost always follows a geometric pattern, with green as its basic
colour.

Chamba Rumal(Himachal Pradesh)[edit]

This embroidery flourished in the princely hill states of Chamba, Kangra, Basholi, and other
neighbouring provinces. Chamba region has highly skilled craftsmen.
The word Chamba rumal implies a peculiar visual art form that represents unique and charming
embroidery done on a hand spun cloth with untwisted silken thread,which is greatly inspired from
pahari painting.
The tradition of this kind of pictorial embroidery was known & practiced in some areas of Himachal
Pradesh and Jammu which remained once important centres of pahari painting. Rumal is Persian
word which means a kerchief , a square piece of cloth worn on the head or around the neck.
The cloth employed for the embroidery was generally unbleached muslin or khaddar.The drawing
was drawn in outlines with fine brush by the accomplished pahari painters sometimes,the female
embroiders would pre- fer to draw the patterns and figures themselves.
This resulted in two different styles one elegant and fine in draughtmanship and the other one
some what coarse and bold in treatment.
https://niftcd.wordpress.com/chamba-rumal/

KASHMIR
Kashmiri or Kashida (Kashmir)[edit]
Kashmiri embroidery(also Kashida) is used for phirans (woollen kurtas) and namdahs (woollen
rugs)as well as stoles. It draws inspiration from nature. Birds, blossoms and flowers, creepers,
chinar leaves, ghobi, mangoes, lotus, and trees are the most common themes. The entire pattern is
made with one or two embroidery stitches, and mainly chain stitch on a base of silk, wool and cotton:
the colour is usually white, off-white or cream but nowadays one can find stoles and salwar-kameez
sets in many other colours such as brown, deep blue, sky blue, maroon and rani pink. Kashida is
primarily done on canvas with crystal threads, but Kashida also employs pashmina and leather
threads. Apart from clothes, it's found on home furnishings like bed spreads, sofa and floor cushions,
and pillow covers.
The base cloth, whether wool or cotton, is generally white or cream or a similar shade. Pastel colors
are also often used. The craftsmen use shades that blend with the background. Thread colors are
inspired by local flowers. Only one or two stitches are employed on one fabric.
Kashmiri embroidery is known for the skilled execution of a single stitch, which is often called the
Kashmiri stitch and which may comprise the chain stitch, the satin stitch, the slanted darn stitch, the
stem stitch, and the herringbone stich. Sometimes, the doori (knot) stitches are used but not more
than one or two at a time.

Sozni embroidery (dorukha) is often done so skillfully that the motif appears on both sides of
the shawl with each side having a different color. Consequently, there is no wrong side. This is
done by a fine needle and generally a single or at the most double thread is used.

'Papier mach' embroidery. Here flowers and leaves are worked in the satin stitch and
employ the bright colors that are found in papier mach objects. Each motif is then outlined in
black. This design is employed either in broad panels on both sides of a shawl or on the entire
surface of a stole. The final effect of this type of embroidery looks translucent and has a
stained-glass work look.

Aari (hook) embroidery; motifs include the well-known flower design finely worked in
concentric rings with the chain stitch. The Aari is a hook needle which gives an even and
machine like finish of embroidery. The cloth is firmly set of a wooden frame & the aari is
maneuvered over the pre-drawn pattern or design. Thoridaar is yet another variation of the aari
work. It is generally the first step to learning the art of hook embroidery.

Shaaldaar and Chinar-kaam are other popular forms

Kashida is inspired by nature. The designs and colour combinations of motifs and patterns
showcase the flora and fauna of Kashmir.

The motifs depict the trees, chinar- maple leaves, lotus, creepers & twigs, flowers, blossoms,
badaam (almond), other fruits and birds.

Samovar (the antique Kashimiri tea-pot) is a very typical & popular design used in Kashmiri
embroidery. The Samovar patter is then filled up with intricate flowers and leaves and twigs.

Kashir-Jaal implies fine network of embroidery, particularly on the neckline and sleeves of a
dress material. Naala Jaal implies embroidery particularly on the neckline and chest/yoke,
because Naala means neck in the Koshur dialect of Kashmiri language.

Jaama A very dense embroidery covering the whole base fabric with a thick spread of
vine/creepers & flowers, badaam and heart shapes, A variation of this form is Neem-Jaama,
where neem means demi or half, because the embroidery is less dense, allowing a view of the
fabric underneath.

Jaal. It consists of bel-buti: a fine and sparse net of vine/creepers & flowers. Variation of
this form is Neem-Jaal, where again the work is less dense.

Suzani (textile)
Suzani is a type of embroidered and decorative tribal textile made
in Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and other Central Asian countries. Suzani is from
the Persian Suzan which means needle. The art of making such textiles in Iran is
called Suzandozi (needlework).
Suzanis usually have a cotton (sometimes silk) fabric base, which is embroidered in silk or cotton
thread. Chain, satin, and buttonhole stitches are the primary stitches used. There is also extensive
use of couching, in which decorative thread laid on the fabric as a raised line is stitched in place with
a second thread. Suzanis are often made in two or more pieces, that are then stitched together
Popular design motifs include sun and moon disks, flowers (especially tulips, carnations, and irises),
leaves and vines, fruits (especiallypomegranates), and occasional fish and birds.

Soof embroidery has been from the region of Megwar, Rajput, Sodha and soof
community. In the style of soof embroidery the worker has to use a combination of several simple
stitches whereby these used forms of stitch work are also termed as soof embroideryform.
Originated from the soil of Gujrat in Bharat, this embroidery style usually integrates various intricate
geometrical patterns and designs. Generally, the patterns that are used insoof embroidery are not
at all pre-drawn on any stuff and thereby, the artist or workers primarily develop these elegant
patterns of soof embroidery, while working in a progressive way. One of the most commonly found
motif over here is a form of wave of embroidery that is known as Lehar in the native language.

http://www.kaneesha.com/soof-embroidery

RAJASTHAN
Kutch or Aribharat or[edit]
The best known of the Kutch embroidery techniques is Aribharat, named after the hooked needle
which forms the chainstitch. It is also known as Mochibharat, as it used to be done by mochis
(cobblers).[3]

Sindhi stitch or Kutchi bharat (Gujarat)[edit]

A variation of Kutch work, this geometric embroidery starts with a foundation framework of
herringbone stitch or Cretan stitch, and then this framework is completely filled with interlacing. It is
said that this technique originated in far away land of Armenia and found its way to Gujarat by
travelling Nomads. Sindhi stitch or Maltese cross stitch is also similar but the innovation of the Kutchi
women have taken it beyond the traditional designs... Kutch work [4]

Rabari (Rajasthan and Gujarat)[edit]

This embroidery style is made by the Rabari or Rewari community of Rajasthan and Gujrat. This
very colourful embroidery style, using stark contrast was traditionally used only for garments, but
now it can be found on bags, accessories, home furnishings, etc. Mirrors of all shapes and sizes are
incorporated in the embroidery, as a result of the belief that mirrors protect from evil spirits. Designs
include not only flowers and fruit and animals such as parrots and elephants, but also temples,
women carrying pots, and the ubiquitus mango shape.

Shisha or Mirrorwork (Gujarat, Rajasthan)[edit]

This ornamentation method originated in Persia during 13th century and involves little pieces of
mirror in various sizes which are encased in the decoration of the fabric first by interlacing threads
and then with buttonhole stitch.[7] Originally, pieces of mica were used as the mirrors, but later,
people started using thin blown-glass pieces, hence the name, which in Hindi means "little glass".
[8]

Until recently they were all irregular, made by hand, and used mercury, nowadays one can also

find them machine made and regularly shaped. It's usually found in combination with other types of
stitches like cross stitch, buttonhole stitch and satin stitch, nowadays not only by hand but also by
machine. Mirrorwork is very popular for cushion covers and bedcovers, purses and decorative
hangings as well as in decorative borders in women's salwar-kameez and sari. There are various
types of chikan work: Taipchi, Bakhia, Phunda, Murri, Jaali, Hathkati, Pechni, Ghas Patti, and
Chaana Patti.
oda Embroidery:- The Toda embroidery has its origins in Tamil Nadu. The Nilgiri Hills, inhabited by
the Todu community have their own style called pugur, means flower. This embroidery, like Kantha,

is practiced by women. The embroidery adorns the shawls. The shawl, called poothkuli, has red and
black bands between which the embroidery is done. As Todas worship the buffaloes, buffalo
becomes an important motif in the Toda embroidery among mettvi kaanpugur, Izhadvinpuguti and
others.
Toda Embroidery:- The Toda embroidery has its origins in Tamil Nadu. The Nilgiri Hills, inhabited by
the Todu community have their own style called pugur, means flower. This embroidery, like Kantha,
is practiced by women. The embroidery adorns the shawls. The shawl, called poothkuli, has red and
black bands between which the embroidery is done. As Todas worship the buffaloes, buffalo
becomes an important motif in the Toda embroidery among mettvi kaanpugur, Izhadvinpuguti and
others.

Ahir Bharat Embroidery has been weaved magically with colors and life.
Often compared with other embroidery styles like Mochi and Aari embroidery, Ahir Bharat
Embroidery is notable for its predominant color combination of white, yellow, green, red and blue
patterned and weaved on a white, yellow or orange background.
Fabric designs for Ahir Bharat Embroidery are first sketched free hand before they are transferred
onto a cloth using stencil and embroidered. Peackocks, parrots, scorpions, elephants, flower, and
tear drop shapes are some of the signature motif Ahir Bharat Embroidery as inspired by the flora
and fauna environment that surround them. Before these patterns are created, several stitches are
used. To create a flower pattern, it requires a repetitive use of circles. For bird patterns like peacock
and parrots, blending of colors is stitched. The detail found on the outermost part is called the Kanta
as it resembles the babool tree thorn. Dana is the stitch for filling gaps while Bakhiya is what the
detailing stitch is called. The chain stitches or Sankali serve as outline for the herringbone stitch or
Vana.
Ahir Bharat Embroidery is commonly used in creating embroidered bags, Chaklas (wall hangings),
and embroidered strips (Sanklas or Bardanklas), which is placed on every side of the doorway with a
hanging Toran over it. Ahir Bharat Embroidery is often made of Rayon, Polyester, Silk, Cotton and
wool fabrics. These cloths require colorful embroidery threads and circular mirrors or Abhla.

http://www.kaneesha.com/ahir-bharat-embroidery

GUJARAT
Aari[edit]
Aari work is done by stretching the fabric on a frame and stitching with a long needle ending with a
hook (like crewel, Tambour or Luneville work). The other hand feeds the thread from the underside,
and the hook brings it up, making a chainstitch, but it is much quicker than chainstitch done in the
usual way: looks like machine-made and can also be embellished with sequins and beads - which
are kept on the right side, and the needle goes inside their holes before plunging below, thus
securing them to the fabric.
Andhra (Andra Pradesh) The Mathurias of Andhra Pradesh, a nomadic tribe found in the forests of
Adilabad. The women use cross-stitch.

UTTAR PRADESH
Chikan or Chikankari (Uttar Pradesh)[edit]
Chikan (from the Persian Chakeen =elegant patterns on the fabric")work originated in the city of
Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh. The myth of its origin links it with Nur Jahan, the wife of Jahangir.
Originally, as a great part of the stitches involve shadow work, it only meant - like in the West embroidery with white thread on white muslin (tanzeb), fine cotton (mulmul), or voile, fine almost
sheer fabrics which showcases the shadow work embroidery best. Nowadays white is not the only
colour it can also be seen on pastel coloured fabric as well.
The artisans usually create individual motifs or `butis` of animals and flowers (rose, lotus, jasmine,
creepers). The designs are first printed onto the fabric not with chaulk, but with a mixture of glue and
indigo.
At least 40 different stitches are documented, of which about 30 are still practiced today and include
flat, raised and embossed stitches, and the open trellis-like `jaali` work. Some of the stitches that are
used in Chikankari work include: Taipchi, Pechni, Pashni, Bakhia (Ulta Bakhia and Sidhi Bakhia),
Gitti, Jangira, Murri, Phanda, Jaalis etc. In English: chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, French knots and
running stitch, shadow work. Another is the Khatao (also called khatava or katava) which is a

KARANTAKA
Kasuti or Kasuthi (Karnataka)[edit]
Kasuti (Kai=hand and Suti = cotton)comes from the state of Karnataka, but also used elsewhere, as
in Kanchipuram sarees. Kasuti is done with single thread and involves counting of each thread on
the cloth. The patterns are stitched without knots, so that both sides of the cloth look alike. Stitches
like Ganti, Murgi, Neyge and Menthe form intricate patterns like gopura, chariot, palanquin, lamps
and conch shells, as well as peacocks and elephants, in fixed designs and patterns.

ORISSA
Pipli (Orissa)[edit]
Appliqu or Pipli Work originates from the Pipli village in Orissa and some parts of Gujarat. It is
based on patchwork: brightly coloured and patterned fabric pieces are sewn together on a plain
background. Designs include human forms, animals and vehicles. Originally this technique was used
for parasols, canopies and pillows for the Rath Yatra Nowadays different home dcor items can be
found, such as lamp shades, garden umbrellas and bed covers.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroidery_of_India#Rabari_.28Rajasthan_and_
Gujarat.29