ON TH TNH

TRANG PHC
VIT NAM
(Dn tc Vit)
VIETNAMESE COSTUMES THROUGH THE AGES

Nh xut bn M thut
2006

LI NH XUT BN

Trong bi cnh ca cng cuc i mi t nc theo hng cng

nghip ha - hin i ha, m thut t n phn chia thnh nhiu lnh
vc chuyn su, nht l i vi ngnh ngh thut trang tr - ng dng
ang trn pht trin cc k mnh m.
Mt hot ng thc tin qu nng ng c th s km hiu qu nu
nh khong cch gia thc tin v nhn thc l lun l qu xa nhau,
thm ch hot ng thc tin c th b mt phng hng hoc i trch.
Ngh thut trang tr - ng dng ni chung v ngh thut trang phc ni
ring chc chn khng nm ngoi qui lut .
Nhng vn v trang phc - t truyn thng n hin i - l nhng
vn ca vn ha, ca m hnh thm m, ca sng to v khoa hc
thch nghi, li cng kh hn khi nghin cu trang phc vi t cch ca
mt phm tr lch s.
Trn thc t c mt s cng trnh nghin cu v trang phc Vit
Nam. Tuy nhin, cng phu su tp t liu, c bit l t liu hnh nh,
kh nng m t v phn tch h thng kh thuyt phc ca tc gi on
Th Tnh th hin trong cun Trang phc Vit Nam / Dn tc Vit - chnh
l l do Nh xut bn M thut la chn cng trnh nghin cu ny.
Tc gi - ha s, ngh s u t, tin s ngh thut hc on Th Tnh l
ngi tng tham gia thit k trang phc cho cc b phim: S , in
Bin Ph, Thi xa vng; cc v sn khu: Trng hoa mai, o Tn
chm Bi Ba, Bu tri mt t, Gic mng m h, Vua Lia, Trng soi
sn nh, v hin ang ging dy v trang phc ti cc trng i hc

Sn khu v in nh, i hc M thut Cng nghip, Vin i hc

M
Nh xut bn M thut xin trn trng gii thiu cun Trang phc Vit
Nam / Dn tc Vit cng gii chuyn mn v ng o bn c.
NH XUT BN M THUT

LI TC GI

Dn tc Vit Nam c hng ngn nm lch s dng nc v gi

nc oanh lit vi mt nn vn ha phong ph, c o, lu i. Nn
vn ha y c tm hiu v gii thiu v nhiu mt, nhng vn cn
nhng i tng cha c tng hp thnh nhng chuyn nghin
cu. Chng ti mun cp n mt kha cnh vn ha ca dn tc cn
t c quan tm, tuy rng i tng ny khng km phn quan trng:
vn trang phc.
Hn nhau tm o manh qun,
Th ra bc trn ai cng nh ai.
(Ca dao Vit Nam)
Bng con mt trang phc th bn cnh ni dung khng nh con
ngi l bnh ng, cn l vn v gi tr vn ha, x hi ca ci o,
ci qun. Trong x hi c, v ci o, ci qun m bit bao con ngi
lao ng phi au kh ln ring:
Cha i ci o rch ny,
Mt chng mt bn v my o i.
(Ca dao Vit Nam)
Lch s chng minh: vi ngha su sc v mt vn ha, x hi, v
xu hng thm m ca tng dn tc, ca tng con ngi, trang phc
cn l biu hin ca tinh thn dn tc. Khng phi v thc m qun
xm lc nh Minh (th k XV), nh Thanh (th k XVIII) li kin tr ch
trng, ng thi dng c v lc tn bo bt nhn dn ta phi n mc
theo kiu phng Bc. Cng khng phi ngu nhin vua L Thi Tng
(1040) dy cung n dt gm vc dng, khng dng gm vc ca nh
Tng na. Qun dn thi Trn c c mt phong tro xm hai ch St
Tht vo cnh tay; vua Quang Trung tuyn b anh thp trong li d
tng s trc nhng trn chin u c tnh quyt nh nh tan qun

Thanh xm lc, gii phng thnh Thng Long, gii phng t nc:
nh cho di tc
nh cho en rng
Phong tc tp qun tt p ca nhn dn ch c th bin i dn dn
khi nhn dn t nguyn thy cn phi bin i.
Nm 1828, vua Minh Mng dng quyn uy ra lnh cm ph n min
Bc mc vy, ng c tng ngay mt cu ca dao chm bim su
cay:
Thng tm c chiu vua ra
Cm qun khng y, ngi ta hi hng!
Khng i th ch khng ng,
i th phi lt qun chng sao ang
C qun ra qun bn hng
Khng qun ra ng u lng xem quan?
(Ca dao Vit Nam)
Mi dn tc c mt qu trnh pht trin trang phc xut pht t nhng
c im lch s, a l, kinh t, phong tc, tp qun Mt nc cng
bao gm nhiu thnh phn dn tc, th hnh thc trang phc cng phong
ph, a dng.
Trn th gii c nhng cng trnh nghin cu, gii thiu mt cch
c h thng trang phc dn tc, qua lm cho nhn dn hiu bit v t
ho thm v di sn vn ha truyn thng, cng l nng cao thm
lng yu nc, yu dn tc, ng thi gii thiu vi cc nc khc,
gp phn lm rng r hn nn vn ha ring ca tng dn tc, tng
nc.
Cng vic ny c th thun li hoc kh khn ty theo hon cnh ca
tng nc. Nhng r rng l nu khng c vic lm , s hn ch tc

dng gio dc, s mt nhiu th gi cho vic tm hiu i sng dn tc

xa cng nh ngy nay v n mc, trang im. V ngay i vi ngi
cng trong mt nc, nu khng c vic lm , dn tc ny khng th
d ng nm bit v cm th c ci hay ci p trong trang phc
truyn thng ca cc dn tc anh em khc.
Gn y nc ta, trn sn khu, in nh vn thy xut hin nhiu
hnh tng nhn vt t hng nghn nm trc (nh B Trng, B Triu),
nhng cch n mc li rt hin i. Hoc c nhng iu ma dn gian
khi trnh din li mang trang phc qu xa l vi thm m trang phc
truyn thng, lm gim khng t hiu qu ngh thut. Do , i vi cc
ngnh vn hc ngh thut (c bit l m thut sn khu, in nh hoc
hi ha, iu khc, ma) c cung cp nhng t liu v trang phc
Vit Nam t xa n nay l iu cn thit. Ngoi ra, t liu v trang
phc Vit Nam cn gip ch phn no cho vic nghin cu cc mn
khoa hc x hi khc
Vi ngun t liu nht nh, chng ti bin son, h thng ha v bc
u gii thiu vi bn c mt s vn v trang phc dn tc Vit
Nam t xa n nay. Vic lm ny gp nhiu kh khn: trc ht l tnh
trng him hoi ca t liu thnh vn Nu c c t nhiu t thi
phong kin th u khng hon chnh. V d, c cun sch ch ghi tn
mt loi m hoc ch nhc n mu sc mt kiu o no , ngoi ra
khng dn gii g hn. c bit l khng c hnh v trang phc trong cc
th tch c. Nhng hin vt bng , ng, g cn li, xem ra c th
qua nghin cu c phn no, nhng cng khng c bao nhiu,
v trn thc t khng hon ton l c s tin cy, v y thng l nhng
tc phm ngh thut c cch iu ha.
i vi trang phc c, chng ti ch c th gii thiu bng cch sao
chp chn thc da trn ti liu, hin vt c hoc cng vi s c
gng suy on ti a, nhng chc chn cn nhng hn ch nht nh.
Sch Trang phc Vit Nam (dn tc Vit) gii thiu trang phc ca
dn tc Vit t xa n nay v trang phc ca mt s t chc chung
(nh qun i, tn gio) trong x hi Vit Nam hin i.

Chng ti coi y ch l nhng su tp bc u, rt mong c s nhit

tnh ng gp thm ca nhiu ngi, nhiu tp th, tng lai chng
ta c c mt cun Trang phc Vit Nam phong ph v hon chnh.
Xin chn thnh cm n cc c quan, on th, tn gio, cc nh
nghin cu, gio s Dip nh Hoa, cc nh hot ng ngh thut, cc
cn b v ng bo gip chng ti bin son cun sch ny.
TC GI


t nc Vit Nam nm trong vng ng Nam , thuc min nhit i
m. Th t ko di t Bc xung Nam, nn kh hu hai min c khc
nhau. min Bc c bn ma tng i r rt: xun, h, thu ng.
min Nam, t thy nhng ngy gi rt, gn nh ch c hai ma: ma ma
v ma kh.
t nc Vit Nam c ni cao rng rm, c sng di bin rng, c ng
bng bt ngt ph nhiu, trung du tr ph.
Nhng iu kin a l, kh hu thc y s pht trin tnh a dng v
trang phc ca nhn dn tng vng con ngi thch nghi tn ti.
Dn tc Vit Nam bao gm nhiu thnh phn, trong ngi Vit c s
dn ng nht v l mt trong nhng tc ngi c gc tch lu i nht
trn di t ny. Do trang phc ni chung v ca tng tc ngi ni
ring tht phong ph.
Nhng di vt ng thau, gm, nm su trong lng t t hng ngn
nm nay c khai qut, nhc n nhng nn vn ha vn minh lu
i, cho php ta khng nh nhiu vn , trong c vn trang phc
ca nhng con ngi thi xa xa y.

Hnh ngi i m, mc vy lng chim (khc trn thp ng)

Thi Hng Vng

TRANG PHC N B, N NG
Cch y hng ngn nm, vo thi i ng thau pht trin, nc Vit
Nam c tn gi l Vn Lang. Ngi dn y sinh sng bng sn
bn, hi lm v trng trt (la, khoai, cy n qu) H khng dng v
cy lm o na m bit trng gai, ay, du, nui tm, m t dt vi.
Trng ng v nhiu tng, ph iu bng ng c khc ha nhng
cnh sinh hot thi , vi nhng hnh ngi, cho thy cc loi trang phc
c th hin bng phong cch ngh thut tru tng ha v cch iu
cao: nhng hnh ngi trn mt trng ng, tng hai ngi cng nhau,
tng ngi trn chic m, tng ngi thi khn; cch trang sc, bi
tc, cht khn nh ca tng ngi n b chui dao gm, chui
kim
Nhng c s trn y t nhiu cho thy trang phc ca ngi c xa
kh phong ph. Ph n mc o ngn n bng, x ngc, b st vo
ngi, pha trong mc ym kn ngc. Chic ym c trn st c, c trang tr
nhng hnh chm ht go. Cng c nhng loi o cnh ngn, c vung,
h mt phn vai v ngc, hoc kn ngc, h mt phn vai v trn lng. Hai
loi sau c kh nng l nhng o chui u hoc ci khuy bn tri. Trn o
u c hoa vn trang tr. Tht lng c 3 hng chm trang tr cch u nhau
qun ngang bng lm cho thn hnh thm trn ln. u v cui tht lng th
xung pha trc v sau thn ngi, tn cng c nhng tua r. Vy kn b
st vo thn, vi m tp trang tr chm trn, nhng ng gch cho song
song v hai vng trn c chm gia.

Tng ph n chui dao gm, kim ngn

Trang phc thi Hng Vng: 1,2. Trang phc nam, n khi lao ng

3. Trang phc ph n khi khng lao ng 4. Trang phc chin binh

Qua nhng hin vt kho c tm c, c th thy n b c hai loi

vy:
- Vy kn (vy chui), hai mp vi c khu li thnh hnh ng.
- Vy m (vy qun) l mt mnh vi qun vo thn mnh.
Vy ngn mc chm u gi. Kiu khc di n gt chn (c l loi sau
l trang phc khi khng lao ng hoc ca tng lp trn).
n ng thng ng kh. Kh l mt di vi, chiu ngang khong
10cm (20cm th gp i li), chiu di khong 1,2m hoc di hn na. Ty
theo chiu di ca kh vi, ngi ta qun mt hoc nhiu vng quanh
bng, th ui kh (ngn hoc di) v pha sau. C trng hp th ui
kh v pha trc. Qua cc khi tng ni, n ng ng Sn thng
ci trn, nhng vi nhng hnh trang tr trn cc hin vt ng thau khc,
c th h mc nhng chic o chui u hay nhng tm o chong c
hoa vn trang tr.
Cn c mt s hin vt bng gm, mnh g, ming da cn li th mu
sc thi thng dng l mu vng, en, nu, xm nht, vng nht
Cht liu mu v l sn (sn ta nguyn cht), phm (loi c bit khng
th phai khi thm nc).
Qua bao nhiu th k, kh hu khc nghit ph hy i nhiu di vt (nht
l cc di vt bng cht liu d hng nh vi vc). Mu sc ca trang phc
thi dng nc khng c nhiu hin vt kho cu, nhng ta c th
phng on trang phc ca ngi Vit c t nhiu cng dng nhng
mu nh trn k.
Do iu kin sng bng sn bn, hi lm, nh bt c hoc lm rung
nc vt v, nn u tc ngi dn phi gn gng. n ng v n b
thng ct tc ngn n ngang vai hoc thnh thong c li buc tm tc
sau u ri th di xung gy, mt s t ct ngn n chn tc.
Khi bi tc, n ng, n b u bi trn sau gy hoc bi ngc mt
phn ln nh u, mt phn tt thnh ui sam th ra pha sau lng. Ngoi

ra cn thy mt di nh bng vi, da hay ng mng ngang trn.

Trn trng Sng , nam xa tc che kn c, n xa tc ngang lng.
Kiu bi tc cng th hin c hai gii: nam, c th tc c bi cao
thnh mt nm di nhn (nh cc khi tng Vit Kh), cn n tc
c bi thnh hnh bnh t pha sau u (nh trn tng mt chui kim
c pht hin Thanh Ha).

Ngi n ng bi tc, ng kh trn cn mui Vit Kh

Cc kiu tc trn hin vt kho c

Cc kiu tc nam, n thi Hng Vng

Quan st nhng hnh ngi trn mt trng ng: i trai gi gi go, mt

s ngi cm v kh, ta thy c li tc v cch n mc ngn gn
trong lao ng sn xut, trong chin u. Qua nhng hnh ngi ma, cho
thuyn, thi khn (hoc cm v kh) trong sinh hot cng ng ngy l,
ngy hi, cn thy nhng chic vy lm bng lng v hoc bng l cy
xe ra rt p, trn u i nhng chic m bng lng v, c trang tr thm
nhng bng lau pha trc.
TRANG PHC CHIN BINH
Di vt v trang phc ca chin binh cn li cho ti nay, ch mi c bit
n qua mt s cu kin nh nhng mnh gip, ai lng ng, bao ng
chn, bao ng tay bng ng.
Mnh gip thi ny hnh ch nht, c l dng che ngc (h tm

phin), bng ng mng chng 1mm, di 30cm, rng 13cm. Cn nhng

mnh hnh vung nh hn (mi cnh t 18cm n 15cm) c th che cho
ring tng b phn quan trng no trn c th con ngi. Loi ch
nht c 4 quai eo. Cn loi hnh vung c l cc gc x dy buc
hay nh vo o.
C hai loi ny, mt trong nhn nhi, mt ngoi trang tr hnh ngi ha
trang thnh chim, hoc hnh c su cch iu v cc hoa vn hnh ch X,
ch S nm ngang, nhng chm, nhng vng trn c chm gia, nhng
ng vch song song, v.v

Mt on tht lng bng ng

Bao ng chn

ai lng bng ng rng khong 5cm c kha to bn, c hnh thnh

bi nhiu ming lin kt vi nhau bng nhng ci mc. Trn b mt mi
ming u c ha tit hnh ra hoc chim C ci c nh thm nhiu
qu nhc nh.
Kha ai lng bng ng thau hnh ch nht ng (7,6cm x 5,5cm) trang
tr ch yu bng nhng hoa vn xon hnh ch S un trn. Cnh mp kha,
vin bng cc hnh xng c. Mt qu nhc nh hnh ng bp c treo
cnh hai mc ca kha.
Cc loi bao ng tay, bao ng chn bng ng (c th c dng cho
c nhng ngi dn bnh thng trong cc iu ma ngy l, ngy hi
chng?) l nhng hin vt c gn nhiu qu nhc hnh ng bp, lm cho ta
lin tng n nhng chm qu nhc chn, tay ca nhiu tc ngi Ty
Nguyn, Vit Bc, Ty Bc khi ma hi, hoc chn cc nhn vt v

tng trong cc tch ht bi ngy nay vn cn thy.

HNH THC TRANG SC, TRANG IM PH BIN
Ngi Vit c, nam n u xu l tai v eo trang sc. Nhng loi
vng tai dng ph bin cho c nam n l hnh trn, hnh vnh khn C
loi n gin, ch l mt si dy ng un trn s si hay c c lin,
c loi vng trn c hng kha. C loi trang tr bng nhng ng lm,
c loi c mu: t hai n nhiu mu. V khi tng, ta thy ngi thi
ny eo cc vng trn nng, lm di tai x xung chm vai (c th iu ny
lin quan n tc cng tai). di vt Lng Ngm, hai tai eo hai kiu trang
sc c khi lng khc nhau. c bit l c nhng vng hoa tai gn qu
nhc hay i hoa tai bng , hnh con th.

1,2. - Mnh gip hnh vung

3. - Mnh gip hnh ch nht

Kha tht lng

Nhng chui ht thng thy gm cc ht hnh tr, tri xoan, hoc hnh
cu. Vng tay vi tit din nhiu hnh khc nhau: trn, vung, ch nht, lng
mng, sng tru c trang tr hoa vn hnh lng chim hay bng la, cht
liu bng mu vng, xanh hoc bng ng thau. Cng c loi bng
thy tinh, hn hu c loi bng ngc.
Ngoi ra cn nhiu loi nhn bng ng eo ngn tay, cng c gn
qu nhc di xinh xn.
Tuy nhng trang sc cn th s, iu kin k thut ch tc hn ch,
con ngi thi c trnh thm m v c tng tng cao, quan
tm lm p cho thn th, ng thi th hin bn tay kho lo, cn c lao
ng.

ai u bng ng

Bao ng tay

Vng tay bng ng

Chui ht bng

n ng thng v ln mnh nhng hnh ngon ngoo, hnh mc cu. Mt

tc xm mnh rt ph bin. S i sau cn chp li: vua thi dy
dn ly mc v hnh thy qui xm vo mnh khi xung nc khng b
c ln git hi.

n ng, n b u nhum rng en v c tc n tru.

thi Hng Vng, t nhng hin vt t i, ta tm li c mt s hnh
thc trang phc ca ngi Vit c. Thc ra y khng ch n thun l
nhng b qun o hay trang sc c th, m, cng nh khi nghin cu
cc hnh mt tri, nhng ha tit, hoa vn trang tr, hnh ngi, hnh chim,
hnh th trn trng ng, tng c, v.v ta cn thy c tr tu, tm hn,
tnh cm ca ngi xa, thy c nhng nim su xa khc na v
nhiu hin tng thin nhin, v cuc sng x hi ng thi.
R rng, nhng nt khc ha trn trng ng ng Sn, hin hin ln
mt gc sinh hot x hi ca con ngi xa xa cn mang tnh tp th cao:
gi go tay i, cho thuyn ng ngi, ca ma nhc phi hp rn
rng

Nhn ng c gn qu nhc

Hoa tai bng hnh th

tp ngi ht ma, trong khi cc ng tc ma lm ta suy ngh v tnh

thng nht cn thit ca cc iu ma th ng tc ca nhng nhc cng
li em li cho ta n tng v s vang vng ca m thanh. V trong khi c
tp su by ngi ht ma u mc ng phc (vy, m nh nhau), th
ch khc c hai ngi cng gi go, mt ngi li tc di, mc vy
di, ngi kia: tc ngn, ng kh. Nhng chi tit ny khng ch biu hin
trnh thm m trong lnh vc ngh thut trang phc m cn bc l r tnh
cht phong ph a dng ca trang phc ng thi.
Chng ta khm phc cc ngh s trang tr trng ng: vi b c sng to
v tri tim nng nhit, i bn tay ti hoa, iu luyn vch ln trng
ng nhng hnh nt k diu, chng minh cho mt nn vn ha vt cht
sm hnh thnh trn di t ny song song tn ti vi mt nn vn ha
tinh thn tt p. c bit l thng qua ngh thut trang phc, ngi ngh
s ni ln c nhiu din t:
cnh gi go, m tc di, di kh ngn tung bay nh ha theo nhp
iu ca ng tc gi go, th hin cnh tng sinh hot ca nhng
con ngi y nhit tnh, hng say lao ng. cnh nhy ma v tu
nhc, cng vi nhng bn tay mm mi, un do nh vng cung, vi dng
iu thi khn say sa, vi ng tc rung chung rn r, nhng b vy di
xe rng, nhng chic m ci lng chim vn thng ln cao cho ta cm
gic v mt cuc sng tng bng, lc quan, ti p ang pht trin cng

vi lng say m yu thch ngh thut ca nhng con ngi lm nn cuc

sng y. cc hnh thuyn ang lt, ngoi cch to dng cho ngi
cm li, ngi bi cho biu hin c sc mnh bn thn, sc mnh
ng i v lng t tin tay ngh sng nc, ngi ngh s khc ha
nhng chic lng chim di trn u cc tay cho ang ng lt c v pha
sau cho ta thy tc ca con thuyn ang hin ngang vt sng d, thc
ghnh, gi cn, bng bng lao nhanh tin ln pha trc. Hnh nh ny phi
chng cn c ngha tng trng cho mt tinh thn thng v, mt nhp
sng tp th ngoan cng y li kh khn, gian kh.

Trm ng ng Son

Cng qua trang phc, tng ngi n b trn chui kim ngn pht
hin ni Na (Thanh Ha) vi tm vy di chm kn hai chn, chic tht
lng duyn dng, m tc tt hnh vnh khn gn gng, i vng tai ln
ung a phi chng chng minh cho mt cuc sng tt p, m
no? Nhng qu nhc ng xinh xn trn nhn eo tay rn rng reo ln theo
mi c ch, d nh nhng ca bn tay p; nhng chm qu nhc to trn
cc bao tay, bao chn lun vang theo mi ng tc khot tay, theo mi
bc chn vng mnh ca ngi dng s, phi chng phn nh c
tm hn ti vui, trong sng, lc quan, ni ln cch sng ng hong, t
ch, t tin ca nhng con ngi Lc Vit.
Tc xm mnh xut pht t mc ch bo ton tnh mng cho con ngi,
(v ln mnh khi xung nc khng b giao long hm hi), c
nng ln thnh mt hnh thc trang im cho thn th. C th vo thi ,
tc xm mnh ph bin rng ri khp ton dn n mc c l v vy m
tn nc ta thi Hng Vng mi gi l Vn Lang (Vn Lang: ngi v
hnh).

Theo ngha no , tc xm mnh do vua Hng xng, dy dn, phi

chng cn l kt qu ca lng thng yu nhn dn, chm lo cho nhn dn
ca ngi th lnh?
Nghin cu cc kiu trang phc, trang sc, trang im thi Hng
Vng, ta tm hiu c nhiu kha cnh v i sng, v mi quan h x
hi thi . Mt khc, ta cn c th cht lc ra nhng yu t thm m lm
tn v p ca con ngi gn b vi thin nhin, hi ha vi t nc
non tr, vi x hi ti p thu mi dng xy.

Vi nt v
thi Ng - inh - Tin L
Vo na sau th k III trc cng nguyn, Thc Phn, mt th lnh
ngi u Vit t min trn trn xung nh chim nc Vn Lang,
thng nht hai lnh th, dng nn nc u Lc, di t min ni xung
ng bng. Thi k ny st pht trin. Ngi u Lc bit lm ra cy
ba v dng sc ko ca tru b trong nng nghip.
V trang phc vn gi tc ct tc, xm mnh, mc o chui u, ci khuy
bn tri (t nhim) (tc ny c t khi cn cha sp nhp hai t u Vit
v Lc Vit).
Truyn thuyt v M Chu - Trng Thy trong c tm o lng ngng
chng minh cho phong tro nui gia cm, gia sc rt ph bin v ni
ln s pht trin v trang phc ca nhn dn thi .
t nc u Lc b Triu xm lc, cai tr, cng vi ba ln b phong
kin phng Bc thng tr hn mt ngn nm (207 trc cng nguyn 939), nhn dn ta mt mt u tranh vi k thng tr, nhng mt mt vn
tch cc pht trin sn xut. Ngh dt c nhng bc tin quan trng.
Ngh trng du nui tm ph bin v cn sn xut c cc loi vi
bng th, vi ay, vi gai, la, vi ct b loi mn bit dng t tre, t
chui dt thnh vi. Vi dt t t chui c tn gi l vi Giao Ch. Khn
bng c thu tha rt p gi l bch ip. Ngoi ra, cn lm nhiu
trang sc bng vng bc (vng tay, nhn, hoa tai, trm), bng ngc (vng,
nhn), bng h phch, bng thy tinh (chui ht). Thi thuc T (479-502)
tng phi cng cho triu nh phng Bc loi m u mu hon ton
bng bc. Kho c hc pht hin c mt s kiu kha tht lng,
chng t tc mang tht lng kh ph bin.
[1]
S sch cho bit thi thuc Hn, b Trng Trc v em l Trng Nh ,
con gi lc tng huyn M Linh, qun Giao Ch thuc dng di Hng
Vng chiu m ngha qun ni dy chng li thi th T nh tr
th nh n n nc (40 - 48 sau cng nguyn). Trong hng tng lnh
ngha qun c rt nhiu ph n. Ngc li c mt th lnh ( huyn
Thanh Oai, H Ty ngy nay) cho hn 300 nam ngha qun mc ym, mc

vy gi trang lm n b, tham gia cuc khi ngha ny.

u th k th ba, t nc ta b nh Ng xm chim. Nm 248 ni
dy cuc khi ngha ca B Triu u (Triu Th Trinh). B Triu mc o vi
mu vng, i guc, tc ci trm, ci u voi, ch huy qun tng nh
gic rt quyt lit.
Nc ta tri qua hn mi th k thuc Bc, sau chin thng Bch
ng oanh lit (938) Ng Quyn xng vng, lp thnh mt vng
quc c lp, l mt vic c ngha to ln. Rt tic l triu i nh Ng
khng tn ti c lu (Ng Quyn mt nm 944) nn cha lm c
nhiu vic. D vy Ng Vng cng t ra cc chc quan vn v, qui
nh cc nghi l trong triu v c bit qui nh v mu sc phm phc
[2]
quan li cc cp
Qua nhng bc tng Ng Quyn th mt s ni, ta thy c nhng
khc bit v trang phc ca nhng tng ny: trn o tng th mang b
[3]
t (nh tng nh Hng Knh, Hi Phng), tng khc li khng.
Tuy nhin tt c u cng l mt loi long bo, c trang tr rng, c trn, tay
thng v c bit u cng mt loi m hai nc, c hai cnh chun trn,
hi chch ln v hng v pha trc (nhng chi tit ny gi cho bit c
th tng c tc mun hn nhiu th k. V n thi Hu L mi thy
nhc n nhng qui nh v b t, v kiu m. Hoc ngc li, phi chng
vic dng b t v vic thit k cnh chun c t lu nhng n thi L
mi ci tin thm).
n triu i nh inh (968-980), v trang phc, s sch i sau ch
nhc n mt s t hin tng nh: (nm 974), qun lnh u i m chm
bng, bn bn hnh vung. M lm bng da, bn cnh khu li, trn hp
di rng, gi l m t phng bnh nh. c o gip. Hoc Nm
Thi Bnh th su (975) inh Tin Hong nh phm phc ca cc quan
vn v. Hoc (nm 980) trong mt bc th ca nh Tng gi cho triu
nh ta c ni ti vic nhn dn ta thi u ct tc ngn. Hoc c nhc
n m ca cc o s l mu vng, o ca cc nh s l mu thm, cc
quan c dng n vng th tht lng di tm, c dng n bc th tht
lng di xanh

Sang thi Tin L (981-1009), vua L i Hnh ln ngi mc o long

[4]
cn , v sau o mc thng dng vc , m trang sc trn chu.
Qun i thng trc ca triu nh (gi l qun tc v hoc thn qun)
thch vo trn ba ch Thin t qun
Nh vy, v trang phc thi k ny, t liu v di vt rt him. K c tip
sau, cc t liu thnh vn cng ch ch yu ni n trang phc triu nh
(tn m, tn o, mu sc nhng li khng miu t t m, cn k). Mt s
di vt bng g, li, ni chung hnh nt khng c r lm.
C th ni, trong vi chc nm tr v, cc vua Ng, inh, L d sao cng
dnh mt s quan tm n lnh vc trang phc, c bit l trang phc
triu nh m nhn chung t nhiu c s k tha hoc sng to v loi hnh,
kiu cch, mu sc. Ngoi tr L Nga Triu (1006) cho i li phm
[5]
phc cc quan vn v v tng o, theo ng nh nh Tng .

1. M tin hin 2. M vin du 3. M Thng thin 4,5. M phc u

Trn thc t trong nhng thi k ch phong kin n nh th trang phc

cng theo dn dn c qui thc ha i vi tng thnh phn x hi
(vua, quan, dn; hoc trong ci, tang, l, hi). Cn c vo kiu thc,
mu sc, ha tit tng giai on, s phn bit mang tnh giai cp
c hnh thnh r rt.

Thi L
[6]
TRANG PHC TRIU NH
Triu i nh L (1009 - 1225), kinh t Hoa L di v thnh i La,
gi l Thng Long. Nm 1054, t tn nc l i Vit.
Sau nhng m di tm ti, nc i Vit vn mnh trong nh sng
rc r ca mt quc gia phong kin c lp. Vi qui m xy dng ton
din, y l c s vng chc cho s pht trin mnh m ca t nc v
dn tc.
Vua ng u triu nh, di c chn phm cp quan vn, quan v v
cc c quan chuyn trch. Nn kinh t pht trin mi mt. Nh nc c c
s nui tm, dt la. Nhng ngi th dt c cc loi gm, vc,
la, on nhiu mu, c ha tit trang tr c sc.
Tham kho bc tng vua L Thi T, t ti cha Kin S (Ph ng,
Tin Sn, Bc Ninh), ta thy m tng l loi m phc u (m t i
ng c 4 gc, 4 tai, v sau lm 2 tai ngang ra, tc m cnh chun)
nhng phn trn hi cao, gia m c mt ng chia cch t di ln
trn, hai bn trang tr hai hnh mt tri bc la. gia trn m nhc li hnh
mt tri bc la, hai bn l hai bng hoa n. Cc ng vin m u l
nhng nm nh tng trng cho cc vin ngc qu. c bit hai tai m
hnh cnh chun (ngn v mp). Nhn chung, ng nt cu to thin v
ng cong, trn, khng c cc ng gy gc, vung cnh. o bo m
gia, trang tr hnh rng, hnh hoa, sng nc Tay thng rt rng, di.
Chn i hi mi hi cong nhng lm gia (ging kiu hi en i Tng,
Trung Quc). Tay tng cm ht c tua r. Cn c vo kiu dng m i,
ngi ta c th thy s khc bit vi m cnh chun thi sau (cnh chun
di v hp), chng minh y l mt loi hnh trang phc c bit xut hin
sm. i chiu vi loi m cnh chun thi Tng (Trung Quc) th thy m
Tng c loi c thit k qu m gc cnh, hai cnh chun rt mnh v
rt di, c loi m khc cnh chun ngn nhng li qup xung st vai.
Ngc li, sa mo, m cnh chun thi Minh trng kh ging hnh dng
m tng vua L Thi T, c bit l hai cnh chun. Nh vy, do nh
hng t qui cch trang phc nh Minh, c th tng vua L Thi T

c tc vo khong thi gian ny.

Nm 1029, vua L Thi Tng cho ch ra m bt gic tiu dao bng vng
v nh qui ch m o ca cc cng hu v cc quan vn v. Nhng chc
vic qui nh ny cn cha cht ch k c v hnh thc trang phc v cch
s dng. (Theo t liu li, a s cc quan triu L mt thi gian vn
eo ci ti thu hnh c , t nhiu cn nh hng li trang sc ca nh
Tng).
Nm 1040, nh vua ch trng dng gm vc trong nc may l
phc m khng dng gm vc ca nh Tng na. iu ny biu th ch t
cng, t lp ca dn tc.
Vua L Thnh Tng nh triu phc cho cc quan. Vo chu vua, cc
quan phi i tt, i hia v i m phc u, mc o bo ta, cm ht ng,
tht ai da. L i m phc u, i hia bt u c t thi ny.

Tng vua L Cng Un

Kiu tc thi L

Vua mc o mu vng, qun ta, bi tc, ci trm vng. Quan li, s phu
mc o di thm bn vt, c ci kht, qun thm, bi tc, ci trm st, u
[7]
qun khn sa en, i nn chp, i dp da, tay cm qut lng hc .
Cc b v phc kh hon chnh, m u mu chm kn tai, o di n
u gi, cnh tay o c may gn gng, cht, b st c tay. Ton thn
o c ph ln bng nhng mnh gip hoc nhng dim vi trang tr hnh
[8]
[9]
xon c ln hay hnh bng hoa nhiu cnh to ngc. Rt nhiu
[10]
ng vin song song
hnh cong hoc hnh xon c, tip di l
nhng qu nhc nh hoc nhng tua r ri mi n hng qu nhc. C
loi o c cu vai cng gn qu nhc, hai vai o, ai bng cn c hnh
h ph Ri rc khp thn o l hnh nhng bng hoa nh nhiu cnh ni
trn nn vi. Nn vi li c trang tr bng nhng ha tit nh hnh ngi
xp hay vy c (c th do thu hay l loi vi dt hoa ni). Dy lng nu
bng vi th bung r hai u xung pha trc. Nu l ai lng bng da th
tht st vo bng, u lm ni ln ng nt khe, p ca c th. i
hia di chn cao n gn u gi v c trang tr n gin.

Cc pho tng Kim Cng thi L

Trang phc cc nhc cng thi L

Tng u ngi, mnh chim

Qua cc b v phc, ta bt gp nhng dng hoa vn, nhng hnh xon,

hnh mc thng thy trong lnh vc trang tr, hi ha thi . Nhng
biu tng cho thin nhin, cuc sng c nhc li trn trang phc ca
nhng nhn vt tng trng cho sc mnh l mt c im hi ha rt c
ngha.
Cc v n, tc thng bi cao ln nh u, trn trn c mt dim trang
[11]
tr, mi tc im nhng bng hoa , tay eo vng, c eo nhng chui
[12]
ht, mc vy ngn c nhiu np .
Trang phc ca nhc cng cng kh c o. M chm kn tc, pha trn
m c lm cao ln v trang tr cc dim un ln. o cnh trong: tay
di v cht c tay. Bn ngoi l mt chic o cc tay. Quanh c o c
[13]
tm vn kin . Quanh bng eo nhng dim vi rng c trang tr nhiu
[14]
ng thu p. Bng chn qun x cp v chn i giy vi mi nhn .

Dn nhc. chm. Tng k chn ct cha Pht Tch (na tri)

Dn nhc. chm. Tng k chn ct cha Pht Tch (na phi)

Thi gian ny vn cn tc xm mnh. T vua n qun s ai cng xm

mnh. Qun cm v xm vo ngc v chn nhng du hiu ring v c
php xm hnh rng ln ngi. Trn trn mi ngi lnh vn c thch ba
ch Thin t qun (nh thi Tin L).
TRANG PHC NHN DN
Ngoi mt s t t liu thnh vn ch ni v trang phc triu nh, cn i
vi o qun ca nhn dn, ngy nay ta nh tham kho nhng hin vt
nh tng trn, tng ni ca thi ny bit c nhng thng tin ti
thiu v qui cch may mc, v cht liu no chng:

Tng Pht A Di

Tng Pht A Di (c nh nghin cu cho rng l tng Pht Th

Tn), (t nm 1057) cn li cha Pht Tch l mt tc phm bng
tuyt p m phn trang phc c quan tm th hin kh tinh vi: tm
o php khoc ngoi c nhng ng cong, ng thng, gp khc hay
bung r rt sinh ng. Np o ni ln nh nhng ng gn ca l sen,
nh st thn th, khi th dn dp chy xui, ch th vt cho mm mi hay
chy vng nh sng ln, ch th nh nhng vi ng nm ngang, cho
thy tm o va rng, va gi t c cht liu vi mng v mn, d
tng c to bng . Lp o trong l loi o di, c o rng c np,
bt cho. Hai tay o thng kh rng. Dy lng tht ra ngoi o ny, buc
mi thnh hnh s 8 nm ngang, hai di bung r xung pha trc.
Nhn dn vn xm mnh nhng ch c xm hnh rn, hnh cc li hoa
vn nh hnh khc trn trng ng. C lnh cm nhng k n bc cc
nh ni ngoi thnh thch du mc vo bng, ngc v chn nh kiu cm
qun, cm thch hnh rng trn mnh. Cm ngi dn mc o mu vng,
con gi dn gian khng c bt chc kiu bi tc nh cung nhn. Thi
k ny, tc nhum rng v n tru rt ph bin. n b eo vng tai, bi

tc v buc dim hoa trn u, gi li nt trang im tng ngi ph

n trn cn dao gm, trn chui kim ngn t thi Hng Vng, hoc cc
v tng cn nh nhiu qu nhc trn o gip biu hin thc nh
ngun, chng minh tinh thn tip ni v pht huy truyn thng.
im qua mt s kiu thc trang phc thi L, ta thy ni ln nhng nt
chc khe, tinh t ca cc b v phc tng Kim Cng, nhng np o
mm mi trn thn tng A Di , nhng di la quanh cnh tay ca cc
v n nh c gi thi ang nh nhng bay ln lm p thm nhng
ng nt y sc sng trn c th con ngi. Tt c tot ra tinh thn yu
t do, yu cuc sng thi bnh ca ngi dn ang lm ch t nc. Tt
c bt ngun t c s thm m ca nhng con ngi ang sng trong
mt x hi m li th Nam quc sn h Nam c ca L Thng Kit
cn vang vng khp non sng, ng thi cng chnh trong x hi y nhn
dn qu mt na lm si, trong nc ch no cng c cha, con ngi
thm tha ni au mt nc, cng thm yu thng t nc, gn b
vi thin nhin, lun gng lm iu thin, nhng cng bit dng tinh thn v
sc mnh ni vi l gic nu chng sang xm phm: Chng bay s b
nh ti bi!.
thi L, nhng hoa vn, ha tit trang tr trn trang phc hay trn cc
chng di vt khc cn mang nhiu ngha tng trng: chng hn nhng
hnh xon c i, chnh l k hiu my ma m ng cha ta vn cu mong
sao cho thun ha, ma mng ti tt, cng nh hnh tng con rng thi
L l rng rn - mt n trang tr p v c o - tng trng cho
ngun gc lch s dn tc, vng un ln mm mi ca thn rng l n d
v ngun nc, my ma, nim m c ca c dn la nc.
C th ni trang phc, hoa vn, ha tit thi L phn nh kh r nt
mt tng quan thng nht trong i sng kinh t, qun s, vn ha
ng thi.

Thi Trn
Triu L suy vong, triu Trn ni tip (1225-1400). Ngy lm l nhng
ngi, hai bn sn in, c mt y tng cc i Kim Ng, V V,
V Tip, V Lm, Phng Quc cm kh gii ng gin hu. Thi y Trn
Th mc v phc, eo gm ng bn t in. L Chiu Hong i
m min, mc o long cn, ng trn bo ta, sai tuyn c t chiu
nhng ngi. Bi chiu c xong, Chiu Hong ng ln nng m min t
u mnh, i cho Trn Cnh, ng thi ci o bo khoc ln ngi Trn
Cnh. Trn Cnh phng chiu bc ln bo ta nhn ngi hong .
Trn nn tng truyn thng, t nc i Vit thi Trn, vi ch st
t lp t cng ca triu nh v ca ton dn, ba ln thng qun xm
lc Nguyn-Mng - pht trin mnh m nhiu mt. V ngh dt, thi
gian ny nhn dn ta c nhiu loi vi bng, vi gai, la, lnh, sa, the,
ni, si, on, gm, vc Ngh thu cng pht trin.
TRANG PHC TRIU NH
Ngay t bui u, nh Trn khi phc ch trung ng tp quyn,
lp thm nhiu c quan chuyn trch, t thm nhiu chc quan. V,
biu th s phn chia cp bc trong cc ban, ngch cho r chc phn,
triu nh nh li qui ch v m, o, cc loi vi v mu sc cho cc quan:
Nm Hng Long th tm, quan v dng kiu m o mi. Quan vn i
[15]
[16]
m kiu ch inh
mu en. Tng quan
i m ton hoa (m hoa
thng c hai vng vng nh hai bn) mu xanh nh kiu c. Ca tay o
cc quan vn, v rng t 9 tc n 1 thc 2 tc (khong t 30cm-40cm),
kiu hp t 8 tc (khong 27cm) tr xung th khng c dng. Tng
quan khng c mc xim. Sau li cho php cc quan i m ch
inh, thm ming la bc tc mu ta pha mu bic (bt ln u dng
buc tc li, b tha v ng sau). Vng hu no tc di th i m triu
thin, ngi no tc ngn th i bao cn.
Thi gian ny vua i m bnh thin, m quyn vn, hay m ph dung,
mc o cn, eo ai lng kim long, c o nh l trng, khn kt tua vng,
ngc chu. Cn c loi m gi l m t ng (an bng my chut nh),

khm ngc thch bch n. Nhng trng hp nghi l, vua cn mc o giao

lnh (o trng vt, o c trng) bng sa mu vng, i m c thao r.
Ngoi ra cc tc vng i m cng thn (c trang tr con ong, con
bm bng vng, nhiu t, to nh ty theo cp bc). Thn vng mc o
tiu kim t phc (o mu ta thu kim tuyn). Hu, Minh t mc o phng
ng t phc (o thu chim phng, c). Mt s tc phm khc i m
min nh kim ngn gin o (vng xen bc), hoc bng bc. Cc loi m
ny ch dng khi i l, thng l ch i khn v mc o ta. ai lng
bng da t hay bng vng ty theo phm trt, ht u bng ng voi. Cc
ni quan hu cn, bc cao mc phm phc, i m dng thng nh
con ong, con bm vng, bc trung th o m sc ch hi gim, bc di
mc o mu ta, i m dng thng mu ta. Khn i lc thng ca
quan bc cao hay dng nhung mu ta xen mu bic, c 6 tua kt sau khn.
ai eo ngang. Bc trung, kt tua ta, bc di, tua en, khm quanh
ngc, vng, i mi Chnh chng, ni nhn cc cc chi hu v th v
nhn bch tc i m bn hoa.

u tng quan hu

Trang phc cc nhc cng v v n

Tng quan hu

n nm Thun Tng th tm ra lnh cm cc quan khng c dng

o tay rng, ch cho dng o tay hp (s liu li khng ni r kch thc
c th rng, hp n u). Nm sau, li qui nh m o ca cc quan vn,
v: nht phm th mu ta; nh phm mu i hng; tam phm mu hng
iu, t phm mu lc; ng, lc, tht phm mu bic; bt, cu phm mu
xanh. Ngi khng c phm hm v hng sng n (ngi hu c vua
sng i) mu trng. Ni th mc qun hai ng, khng dng xim.
Cc quan theo hu, chc vn t lc phm tr ln c i m cao sn

(chnh lc phm m mu en, tng lc phm mu xanh). Chnh lc phm

c mang ai, i hia. Ngi tn tht i m phng thng mu en.
Chc v, lc phm i m chit xung, tc cao m khng c chc c
mang ai v i m gic nh, tht phm i m thi c, tng tht phm
i m ton hoa. Vng hu i m vin du. Ng s i i m khc
phi. Nh vua bi tc, dng the bc v buc li, trng nh khn nh o s,
ch rng hn mt t, cn tc hai bn th vn l ra v xa xung. Cc quan
[17]
c mc o bo v cm ht. C nhng trng hp i chn t .
Ngy nay, quan st mt pho tng quan hu bng lng vua Trn
Hin Tng (xy dng khong gia th k XIV) ta thy ngi mc o
i triu r xung gn st t. Di lng tht hnh s 8 pha trc, hai u
c tua th so le. Do ch tht lng chn li, phn di t o xe ra, ph gn
kn chn, v t hai khuu tay tr ra, tay o c xp nhiu np, biu hin
tm o c may vi qui cch di v rng. u tng i m bao trm
[18]
c tc .
Ngoi tc xm mnh, qun i thi Trn u thch ch St Tht vo
cnh tay biu hin lng quyt tm git gic xm lc Nguyn - Mng.
Vic xm mnh, thch ch rt ph bin t u thi Trn. N t thuc nh
quan thch ln trn ba ch Quan trung khch. N t hu cn vua thch trn
trn ba ch Ta thng n. i Anh Tng nin hiu Hng Long nm th
[19]
6, quy nh cho qun lnh cc cm v
thch nhng ch qun hiu trn
trn nh: Chn thng , Thy d xoa , Chn kim Qun lnh
thng xm hnh rng bng, lng v hai i. Thng ch mc mt o
xanh rng tay, tri nng th ci trn, cng khng c o gip, m tr. Qun
tc v xm hnh hoa trn trn. Qun khing kiu, cm tn qut cho vua
thng mnh trn (d tri rt), ch dng mt on vi xanh qun t
mng ln n rn Gia n cc vng hu, cng cha u phi thch ch
vo trn phn bit.

Hnh ngi qu ta sen

Hnh ngi trn di ch Cn Thnh

Mt s ti liu cho bit thi k khng chin chng Nguyn ln th hai v

th ba (1281-1288) thy xut hin mt loi i gi l nn Ma Li.
Nn ny c an bng ct tre nn rt cng, c lm ra t hng Ma
[20]
Li (thuc a phn huyn M Vn, tnh Hng Yn ngy nay) . Nguyn l
tng Trn Khnh D trn gi Vn n (Qung Ninh) thy trong qun dn

ta cha c s phn bit trang phc vi lnh ch nn ra lnh cho mi ngi

phi i nn Ma Li khi nh nhau khng b nhm ln (chi tit ny cn
cho ta bit thi c th cha c s ng nht trong trang phc ton
qun).
Nhng ngi ht, ma (n ng) mc qun gm nhng vn ci trn, lm
vui cho cc tic yn trong triu. Cn trang phc ca nhng v n v nhc
[21]
cng th c kiu o may st ngi, tay o cht , c kiu tay o phng
[22]
rng, tht dy lng ngoi vt o, buc mi s 8, vy mc di v rng .
C hnh thc quy quanh bng nhng di la di n tn u gi nh
chic vy xe ng nghnh, lm ta lin tng n hnh thc mc vy ca trai
gi Vit c lm bng lng v hay kt bng l cy trong ngy hi thi Hng
[23]
Vng xa . Nhng ngi din tr (sn khu) mc o gm, o thu
Cui thi Trn, trang sc vn c nhiu th nh vng tay, chui ht
eo c bng i mi, xng, sng, t dng vng, bc.

Hnh nhc cng

Hnh tin n dng hoa (trn gch)

Tng nht T Trc Lm

TRANG PHC NHN DN

Triu nh thi Trn my ln qui nh ch m o cho cc quan vn,

quan v, cn i vi nhn dn, ch c bit l tr ph n khng b cm,
cn khng ai c mc mu trng. Ai mc mu trng l phm php. C
th mu trng l dnh ring cho nhng ngi ti t trong cung, trnh
s ln ln trong x hi. Cc mu xanh, , vng, ta, cng khng dng.
Ngoi ra, xung chiu cho qun dn khng c mc o kiu ngi
phng Bc.
n b thng mc o bn thn mu en, trong lt vi trng may vin
vo c o, rng khong 13cm. Ct tc li chng 10cm ri buc tm ln
nh u, xong un cong ui tc v buc li ln na hnh ging nh cy
bt. Khng tc mai, khng bi tc pha sau u, khng eo vng
khuyn. Nhng ngi giu ci trm i mi, cn th ci trm bng xng
hoc sng, khng dng phn sp hay vng ngc g c.
n ng thng ci trn hoc mc o t thn mu en, c o bng the.
i a s co trc u (k c tr em). C ngi chm u bng khn la.
Ngy thng nh, ch u trn, khi tip khch hoc ra ng mi
i khn. u i t, cng c ngi i dp da, nhng khi vo cung vua th
ci ra.
Trong nhn dn vn ph bin tc nhum rng en v n tru. Ni cha
chin, nh s mc kiu o gi l o lc th.
Tc xm mnh thi Trn rt ph bin, t n trnh ngh thut, v c
th chuyn v hnh.
Trong khi qun i thi Trn u thch ln cnh tay hai ch St Tht, th
nhn dn i Vit, nhiu ngi, d l ngi c con chu, cng xm ln
bng nhng ch Ngha d quyn khu, hnh vu bo quc th hin tinh thn v
vic ngha liu thn, bo n n nc. Xm mnh, thch ch va l truyn
thng, va l thi hnh li th thing ling, va th hin mt tinh thn
thng v. ng thi, cng l mt hnh thc trang im trn thn th,
phn nh quan nim v ci p ca ngi ng thi.
Qua nhng cuc chin tranh xm lc v vi chnh sch ng ha d
man, ch trng tiu dit vn ha dn tc ta, k th ph hy bit bao
cng trnh kin trc, hi ha nc ta. V hnh thc trang phc ca nhn

dn ta di thi Trn, n nay cn rt t t liu thnh vn kho cu.

Ngy nay chng ta nh bng lng cn c trn mt tng (ch cn duy
nht l tng quan hu lng vua Trn Hin Tng), mt s bc chm ni
bng g, bng t nung, c th t nhiu hnh dung c cch thc
trang phc thi .

Hnh cc nhc cng trn cn cha Thi Lc

Nhn chung, trang phc thi Trn c nhng sc thi c bit, khng tch
ri nh hng ca mt nguyn l thm m xut pht t tinh thn thng v
ng A, bt ngun t truyn thng dng nc, gi nc oanh lit ca dn
tc. Trong vng 30 nm, ba ln so gm, gio vi mt k th kht
ting hung hn ang lm c nhiu nc trn th gii, qun dn i Vit,
vi lng yu nc nng nn, vi sc mnh on kt cht ch, tr thng
minh sng to, phi thng xuyn cnh gic, thng xuyn rn luyn,
lin tc chin u ngoan cng v ginh c thng li huy hong.
Thc t khch quan y khng cho php mt s cu k, phc tp, tn
mn trn mi hnh thi i sng x hi thi y, trong c phn trang
phc, trang sc. (V d nh ph n (tt nhin) thi Trn v cho ti v sau
kh lu, khng trang im dim da, vua quan u n mc gin d).
Tuyt i a s nhn dn u i chn t v mc o bn thn quen
thuc. Mu vi en l mu ph bin. Nam gii, hu ht gi tr u co trc
u, v theo o Pht, cng ni ln tinh thn ca mt t nc ton dn v
[24]
binh .
c bit l tc thch ch, xm mnh, biu hin s ha hp vi thin nhin,
[25]
thc tip ni truyn thng, khng qun gc T , biu hin tinh thn
quyt tm chin u cho nn c lp ca dn tc. Nhng hnh xm trn

mnh, nhng ch thch trn cnh tay, trn bng nhc nh bn thn tng
ngi, nhc nh ln nhau, ng thi cng l mt thi r rng vi qun
ch (nht l khi b bt): t nhn mnh l k t th vi chng.
Ch sau khi ba ln nh thng qun Nguyn, triu nh mi ban hnh cc
qui nh v m o cho cc quan, thc cht, cc kiu trang phc y, k c
nhng kiu thc qun o trong nhn dn sau ny, tuy khng c gin
n nh thi khng chin nhng vn gi c phong cch khong t,
khe khon chung, mang hi th ca thi i. Hin tng nhng ngi
phc v nh vua, qun lnh trong khi lm nhim v, k c khi triu nh,
vn c ci trn, nh cc tng lp nhn dn khc, l iu chng minh.
Tinh thn c lp, t ch cn c th hin vic triu nh qui nh v
mu sc trang phc: nh Trn khng theo quan im ca Khng gio coi
[26]
[27]
trng chnh sc , m vn dng cc mu gin sc
nh mu ta, mu
hng, mu bic, mu lc, v.v may mc cho quan cc cp.

Hnh nhc cng thi Trn

Nhn chung thi Trn, trong cung nh cng nh ngoi dn gian, mu

sc c s dng kh phong ph, a dng, gn gi vi cc mu ca
thin nhin, cuc sng nh vng, , xanh, en v c bit l nu
Bn cnh hnh cc nhc cng, v n vi trang phc p , c nhng di
la mng php phi un ln hoc nhng ha tit long, ly, qui, phng,
sen, cc, trc, mai - l hnh tng thanh cao chn cung nh - cn c

nhng hnh rng mp, khe hoc bit bao hnh nh con nai, con c, rong,
ru, cy c, my nc rt gn gi vi nhn dn. Nhng ha tit trn
gm, hnh hoa dy mm mi tinh t, ha tit sng x, nc cun chm
[28]
khc trn , g tt c tot ln c im phm cht con ngi v
t nc i Vit thi Trn.

Vi nt v giai on nh H
Nm 1400, H Qu Ly cp ngi nh Trn, t xng l Quc t chng
hong , mc o mu b hong (mu vng nh nh hoa cy xng b).
Ly quc hiu l i Ngu.
n i H Hn Thng, nh vua ra lnh cho cc quan vin khng c
i hia, ch cho i giy gai sng. (L c i trc quan t lc phm tr ln
mi c i hia).
Cc gia n u thch nhng hnh khc nhau vo trn phn bit: quan
n th thch hnh ha chu (ngc c tia sng to ra nh tia la), gia n ca
cng cha th thch hnh dng ng (cy dng v cy ng); ca i
vng th thch khuyn ; ca quan nht nh phm u thch mt khuyn
en; ca quan tam phm tr xung thch hai khuyn en.
T nm 1403, c l qun lnh cc chu no phi thch ch tn chu y
vo hai cnh tay lm du hiu.
Tng s nh H ra trn u mc o gip bng da. c trng hp i
nh Chim Thnh, ht lng n phi nng o gip n.
Thng 8, H Hn Thng sai p n n Sn lm l t Giao. Nh
vua ngi kiu Vn Long, cc cung tn, mnh ph, triu thn vn v th t
theo hu. M o ca n b phi dng km chng mt bc, ngi no
bn thn l tn qu th khng phi km.
Nh H tn ti c 7 nm. Bn cnh nhng vic lm nhm mu li
ch cho tp on thng tr mi, nhn chung, nh H c nhng ci cch
v chnh tr, kinh t, qun s, vn ha, x hi rt ng ghi nhn. Ring
i vi trang phc, ch trong mt thi gian tr v ngn ngi, phi lo gii quyt
bao nhiu vn quan yu, triu H vn c nhng quan tm nht nh,
biu hin c s nhn thc ng n v vai tr quan trng ca lnh vc
ny, so vi mt s triu i khc, nh vy cng l ng k.
TINH THN U TRANH CHNG NG HA TRANG PHC
Nm 1406, nh Minh (Trung Quc) phi qun sang xm chim nc ta,
nhng mi n nm 1414 chng mi t c b my cai tr.

Trong thi gian h (1414-1427), qun Minh i nc ta thnh qun

Giao Ch vi th tiu nn c lp dn tc, m mu ng ha nc ta,
bt nhn dn ta thay i phong tc, tp qun, cch n mc theo li
phng Bc.
Nh Minh tuyn b phong tc c lin quan n vic tr o. Do chng
nghim khc hn nh trong mt thng, tt c quan li, k chnh, gim th,
quan lang, u mc, binh lnh, n b u phi c s phn bit v y
phc, nht thit phi thay i theo ch hin hnh, nu tri lnh s b tr
ti. Quan li v sinh vin u i m c cnh, mc o di vt, c o vin
trn, i giy ng c dy tht. Quan li: o bng t la. Sinh vin: o mu
xanh lam. n b ly chng lm quan, khn o phi theo ng th l qui
nh. Ngi no ly chng l thng dn th mc o rng, vy di, phi bi
tc, chm khn la en, trm thoa, khuyn mm ty nghi s dng, cn giy
dp lm bng vi hay bng da. Cm ct tc, cm l chn. Cm mi
ngi dng cc mu huyn, vng, ta. Trc n ng nc ta thng
vn co trc u, n b cng thng ct tc ngn, nay con trai, con gi
khng c ct tc, n b, con gi phi mc o ngn, mc qun di,
ha theo phong tc phng Bc.
Ngay t nhng ngy u, nhn dn ta khng chu khut phc. Gic Minh
in cung cp bc, khng b, chm git, tn ph nhng khp ni,
mi tng lp nhn dn ta vng ln u tranh bo v ch quyn t
nc, bo v i sng vn ha ca dn tc. Ngi dn vn n mc theo
truyn thng, qun khi ngha i m t phng bnh nh, loi m c
dng t thi nh inh, Tin L.
K th t sch, ph bia, bt nhn dn ta phi n mc theo chng, nhng
chng khng th thc hin c mu en ti. Nhn dn ta biu th sc
chng i mnh lit nn nhiu ln chng phi ra thng co, nu qui
nh, trong c nhng iu khon v trang phc.
C th k n nhng thnh tch ca ngha qun vng Thi Nguyn (qun
Minh gi l gic Hng y). i ngha qun ny chin u dng cm,
ngoan cng ginh c nhiu thng li v qun s, thng mc o
mu , qua mu sc trang phc gy n tng tin tng trong nhn dn,
gy ni kinh hong khng khip cho k ch, pht huy thanh th, hot ng

rng ri su sc. T vng Thi Nguyn, phong tro o lan rng khp
[29]
min Ty Bc, Vit Bc, min ni Thanh Ha, Ngh An ngy nay
Chng ta cn c bit b trang phc dn tc ca L Li gn lin vi
s hy sinh cao c ca L Lai, ngi anh hng dn tc m i i lch s
cn nhc ti
Sau hn mi nm b phong kin phng Bc (nh Minh) h v sau
nhng nm khng chin oanh lit ginh c thng li, t nc i Vit
li i vo cng c di triu i nh L, ng u l L Li.

Thi L - Mc - Trnh - Nguyn - Ty Sn

Tng truyn thi tin khi ngha Lam Sn, L Li l mt ho trng
nhng vn thng mc o nu ngn i cy, i ba, lao ng, sinh hot
nh nhng ngi nng dn trong vng.
Khi ln ngi vua, L Thi T vn ly tn nc l i Vit. Kinh Thng
Long i tn l ng ri ng Kinh. Nh L a Nho gio thnh h t
tng chnh thng cng c ch phong kin theo mu khun vng
thc ngc. Nh L tn ti c 99 nm (1428-1527) th b lt , thay
th bng nh Mc vi 65 nm tr v, ri li phi tr li ngai vng cho cc
vua L - Nh L Trung Hng (1533-1788). Tnh trng vua L, cha Trnh
pha Bc, cha Nguyn pha Nam ko di cho n khi Ty Sn khi
ngha ginh thng li, lp kinh Ph Xun (Hu). Sut thi gian ny,
np sng trong x hi v mi quan h gia ngi vi ngi c qui
nh bng cc th lut l cht ch, trong , trang phc c ra kh t
m.
TRANG PHC TRIU NH

Trang phc ca vua cha, hong tc:

i L Thi Tng, t 1434, nhng khi i l nh l t tri, t tn miu, l
ln ngi, l thnh tit, tt Nguyn n, vua mc o long cn, u i m
[30]
min . Cn l thng triu, nhng ngy mng mt, ngy rm hng
[31]
[32]
thng, th mc hong bo , i m xung thin . Sau ny i l vua
cng ch mc hong bo, i m xung thin, mang ai ngc. Khi thng
triu, i m tam sn, mc o mu xanh huyn. Ngy gi k, nh Thi
[33]
Miu ch i m bnh nh , mc o thanh ct.
V trang phc ca cc vua nh Mc, trong th tch c li, rt tic
khng c g ng k. (Tuy nhin, chng ta c th tham kho c phn
no m o thi Mc qua mt s tng th s c ni ti phn sau).
Trong cc i l, cha Trnh mc o bo ta, i m xung thin, mang ai

[34]
ngc. Khi l thng (nh l th chnh, triu hi v yt kin ) u i m
tam sn, mc o mu ta. Khi yt lu knh thin hoc l sinh nht Thi
miu th i m bnh nh, mc o thanh ct mu ha minh. L k nht cc
v i gn th dng m bnh nh, mc o vi thm.
Trang phc ca cha Trnh khng khc bit g trang phc ca vua L m
ch khc v mu sc (vua dng mu vng, cha dng mu ta). Trang phc
con chu vua cha: con s ni ngi vua (Hong Thi T) mc o xanh, i
[35]
m dng ng . Con s ni ngi cha (Vng Th T) mc o ,
i m dng ng cnh chun dt vng, b t hnh k ln thu kim
tuyn, mang ai nh qu bt vng. Khi chu ph cha mi mc o
[36]
thanh ct c dy thao kp (gip thao)
xu ht ngc, dt vng, i m
[37]
sa , c ch thm t ni.

Tng th cha Bi Kh

H Nguyn pha Nam, tuy vn xng l cha nhng tht ra vn ch l

tc Thi Bo qun cng ca nh L.
n thi Phc Khot mi t xng l quc vng, i m o, thay phong
tc. Th ch o m v cc kiu ng u a vo sch Tam Ti Hi
m nh ra, chng t mt s khc bit hn vi Bc H, hy vng duy tr
c quyn cai tr phn t, phn dn c.
Trang phc ca Ty Sn vo thi k ny cng ch c mt t t liu. Nm
1775 Vip qun cng ban khi gip cho Nguyn Nhc, m v o chin cho
Nguyn Hu. Ngy 22 thng 12 nm 1788, trong bui ln n lm t l co
tri t ln ngi hong Bc Bnh Vng, Nguyn Hu mc o long cn,
i m min do chnh mnh v kiu. Hm y Quang Trung ban chiu
xut nm im quan trng, trong c mt im ni v trang phc Y phc
ca nhn dn Nam H, Bc H, vn theo nh c. Duy m o cc quan triu
thn s thay i mi. Nu vn trang phc ca nhn dn trong chiu ln
ngi, tn trng phong tc tp qun v trang phc ca nhn dn l mt biu
hin cho thc dn tc ca vua Quang Trung trong lnh vc vn ha ny.
Tng truyn khi lm trn, Nguyn Hu thng cht khn , mc chin
bo, ci voi. Ngy 30 thng 1 nm 1789 (tc ngy mng nm thng
ging nm K Du), ngy qut sch qun xm lc Mn Thanh, gii
phng thnh Thng Long, chin bo ca vua Quang Trung nhum en
khi sng.
Nguyn Nhc, Trung ng Hong , khi tip khch ngoi giao ti cung
in mc o di bng la vng sm, c thu rng v cc trang tr khc
bng kim tuyn. Vua i mt ci m nh pha sau cao, pha trc cn
ngc v mt vin qu ln c gn l lng bng dy vng, di 5 t
tay. Mi khi lc u, vin qu rung rinh ta sng.
t dinh, khi ci b m o l nghi, Hong thng ch mc mt o
[38]
ngn c b khuy nh bng kim cng, u cht khn nhiu .

Trang phc quan, qun:

T nm 1429, sau khi ln ngi mt nm, vua L Thi T quan tm

n trang phc ca cc quan, nhng do iu kin kh khn ca t nc

nn ch mi biu th mt s hnh thc: phm quan v t thng tng
tc tr t (c ba bc: thng tr t, i tr t, tr t) v tc trc phc
hu tr ln: vn t chc nhp ni, (i) hnh khin, v quan phc hu tr
ln u cho mc o la mu .
n thi L Thi Tng cho chc gio th Quc T Gim v gio chc
cc l, huyn c i m cao sn (trc kia i m thi c).
Khng cho php con trai, con gi cc i thn v cc quan vn, quan v
mc mu huyn, mu vng, cn mu vng xanh th khng cm.
Cho cc quan v i m cao sn nh quan vn (trc kia quan v i
m chit xung). Thi gian ny, nhn ngy K Thin thnh tit, sau khi vua
yt thi miu, v an tr, vua mc o cn, i m min, cc quan mc triu
phc lm l dng biu chc mng, m u cho l i m mc triu phc
t v sau.
Trong h thng trang phc qun i, c thy ni n loi nn lm bng
da, hn ba trm nm sau thi Ty Sn cn dng.
i vua L Thnh Tng nh mu phm phc cho cc quan v: t nht
phm n tam phm cho mc o mu hng; t, ng phm mu lc. Ngoi
[39]
ra u mc o mu xanh. Quy nh ch c thn qun
mi c dng
[40]
nn thy ma
v nn sn .
Nm Hng c th 2, ban mu ha v hoa dng ca b t: vn v
loi cm, v v loi th; nu chc tc l cng, hu, b, ph m, v quan
[41]
ng thng
Ng s i u v mt con; quan vn v hng chnh
phm v hai con, hng tng phm v mt con. Cc chi tit my, ni, nc,
hoa, cy, ty ch tc. Cc sc xanh, vng, , trng, kim, bic, lc ty
nghi thu tha, khng nht thit phi thu vng gm c, c th dng kim
tuyn cng c. (Tuy nhin, khng thy s sch nu tn nhng loi cm,
loi th c th trn b t ca cc chc phm trong thi gian ny).
nh kiu thng triu phc cho cc quan vn v phi mc o c trn
trong mt s ngy nht nh nh t bit hay ra mt

Sau li nh kiu m chu ca cc quan vn v l m sa, hai cnh

chun phi nht lut hi hng v ng trc, khng c t lm
ngang hay lch.
Nm 1488, nh triu phc mi, gu o di cch t 2 tc (khong 7cm),
tay o rng 1 thc 3 tc (khong 43cm).
Thi nh L, m o tin s c quy nh nh sau: tam khi (trng
nguyn, bng nhn, thm hoa) v hong gip c i m phc u hai
cnh, l tam sn bng thau. ng tin s i m phc u nhng khng
c cnh m c di, sau li b di i. ai ca trng nguyn, bng nhn,
thm hoa u lm bng g tc hng, bc la mu tm than, trang tr bc,
nhng cp cao hn th c s dng lng bc nhiu hn. o chu u
bng on huyn hoa lin vn. ai ca ng tin s lm bng sng tru
bc la mu tm than, trang tr thau. o chu u bng sa.
i Hng c, qun s cc v thuc 5 ph, qun kiu dng i m
mu ta, qun gi yu (phi kiu dng) i m mu en.

Tng ngi dt nga (Lng inh Hng)

Triu nh li nh th thc trang phc khi tip s nh Minh: cc cng,

hu, b, ph m v cc quan vn phi may sn o c c bng gai, t, sa,
l sc xanh, di cch t 1 tc (khong 3,3cm), tay rng 1 thc 2 tc

(khong 40cm). Cn quan bn bc th dng ch y, di cch t 9 tc

(khong 30cm), tay hp nh kiu c. u phi dng b t, i hia, phi
dng mu ti sng, khng c dng th c, xu. S qui nh th
thc trang phc ngoi giao biu hin lng t tn dn tc, khng chu
cho nc ngoi d ln mnh dm coi thng.

1. Tng vin quan (Lng inh Hng)

2. Tng vin quan (Lng h )
3. Tng quan hu (Hi Dng)

i L Hin Tng nh r y phc thng triu t thng 10 tr i, mc o

l t gai, t thng 2 tr i, mi mc o sa thun kh hu tng ma.
Hong thn v quan vn, quan v t tam phm tr ln c tc cng i
m phc u, nhng m ca hong thn cnh chun trang sc bng vng,
quan vn, quan v trang sc bng bc. o: dng mu ta. B t: cc tc
cng trong hong thn dng hnh con k ln; quan nht, nh phm v hng
vn dng hnh con tin hc, v hng v dng hnh s t; tam phm, vn hnh
con cm k (mt th chim ging chim tr, lng v ui lng mu vng); v
con bch trch. ai lng: dng sng con t hoa, ai ca hong thn trang
sc bng vng, quan v hm nht, nh phm trang sc bng bc; tam
phm dng i mi trang sc bng bc, bao lng dng la .
Cc quan t t phm n ng phm: m v hng v i nn mu trng

(chp bc), v hng vn i m tiu phc u, cnh chun trang sc ng

bch. o mu lc. B t: quan t phm, v dng hnh con h, vn dng
hnh con cng; ng phm, v dng hnh con bo, vn dng con vn nhn.
ai lng: quan vn, quan v u dng i mi, trang sc bng thau. Bao
lng la .
Lc phm tr xung: v hng v i nn sn ; v hng vn i m tiu
phc u, khng trang sc. o mu xanh. B t: v hnh con voi, vn hnh
con bch nhn. ai lng: quan vn, quan v u dng tc hng, chung
quanh vin thau. Bao lng bng on thm.
Cc php quan u dng hnh gii tri.
o mc khi thng triu: cc quan hm nht, nh phm tr ln dng hng
gm vc c dt hoa l sc s, tam phm n ng phm dng cc hng
gm vc, lc phm tr xung dng cc hng t lnh.
[42]
Mnh ph
u theo vi phm trt ca chng (tc l c dng m
o ca bc quan km bc quan ca chng mt bc). Ngi n b no
chnh bn thn lm nn sang hin, th khng phi km m o ca chng
mt bc.
Sau Trung Hng, vua L ln ngi lm l t tri t, i m xung thin,
mc o bo mu huyn.
Gim sinh, nho sinh, hc sinh, sinh , li in v quan vin t, quan vin
tn u dng cc hng lnh, l, hoc vi la. c bit l o m ca binh lnh
th hu c may bng loi gai l (mt mt hng dt qu ca nc ta, c
th mu , c th mu xanh, thng dng lm l vt tng s gi Trung
Quc). o m ca ngoi binh c loi lm bng da tru sn .
i L Thn Tng nh mu y phc trong nc, di rng khc nhau,
[43]
quan vn, t khoa o, quan v, t qun cng mc o vi thanh ct ,
u dng l ph ng sau. Ngi khc khng c mc kiu o .
i L Chn Tng nh r thm v m o ca hong thn, vng t, vn
v trm quan dng khi vo chu vua; m sa, o thanh ct ca hong thn
vng t, vn v trm quan khi vo hu ph cha.

i L Huyn Tng dng n T Giao pha Nam thnh Thng Long.

Tham gia c cc quan qun trong c cc hiu cm qun ni in nh
Th Kiu, Th Ni, Kim Ng, Cm Y, v.v u i m , mc o thanh ct
vin , np trng, cm c qut, nghi trng Hai mi vin trn in
i m , mc o gm xanh, b t thu con voi, tay cm di ng. Vua
i m xung thin, mc o bo vng, eo ai ngc. Cha i m xung
thin, mc o bo ta, eo ai ngc. Tit ch ph i m dng ng,
hai tai m bng vng, mc o bo ta, b t thu k ln, ai mt , bt
vng.
nh r o thng mc ca cc quan bng vi thanh ct, tay rng 9 tc 5
phn (khong 31cm), nch rng 8 tc 2 phn (khong 27cm). Nhng
ngi thp b c th cho hp bt i. Triu phc th khng theo qui ch
ny.
i L D Tng qui nh v vic dng o m bng vi thanh ct. Loi vi
ny (v m ch inh) trc kia c dng ph bin trong tt c cc tng
lp sang hn, trn di, nay hn nh phi theo kch thc di, ngn, rng,
hp, phn bit th bc.
Trang phc i triu ca cc quan vn, v thng dng l m phc u,
o vn cm c trn, c nh b t (do cn gi l o b phc). Cn nh
lc ra th s v vo hu thng th quan vn i khn lng (lang cn),
quan v i khn ui n (yn v), mc o thanh ct c tm che ng sau,
ri n hng cht khn (hay i m ch inh). Nhng th y u do ng
Nguyn Cng Hng, t tng nh L ch ra.

Tng hai quan vn

Chnh ng Nguyn Cng Hng (1679-1782) l ngi phn bit cc

loi m:
M ch inh chia lm ba loi: loi mt hnh trn, nh m bng phng, dt
bng lng ui nga, nm vng bc pha trc phn bit th bc,
vua v cha khi thng cng dng, con vua, con cha khi vo hu mi i;
th hai l m lc lng nh m trng xung, lm bng sa nam, dnh cho cc
quan ni gim; th ba l m hnh trn lm bng vi thanh ct may tm li,
cho k s th, qun lnh v th li thng ng. Nh vy, d vn gi l
m ch inh nhng khng cn gi c hnh dng nh kiu m ban u
m phng ch inh na.
M bnh nh c thng dng t quan cao cp cho ti k li s, nhng
ty cp bc m lm m cao, thp. Vua cng i m bnh nh nhng thu
ch kim tuyn.
[44]
n nm 1720 i nh: o ca hong thn, vng thn , ma xun,
ma h dng sa tu, i m lng ui nga; ma thu, ma ng dng
on tu, mu trm hng, m bng on mu huyn. o ca cc quan
vn v t nht phm n tam phm, ma xun, ma h dng sa tu, ma

thu, ma ng dng on tu, u mu huyn. M bn vn l m l kp,

bn v dng m l n. o ca t phm th dng sa on nam. Chc th
ni gim i m bnh nh, hnh su cnh. Cc quan vn v v ni gim khi
chp s hnh l, khi hu ni cc v khi trng coi vic cng u mc o
thanh ct, i m sa.
Sau li quy nh chi tit phm phc c th hn cho con vua, con cha,
cho cc chc quan trong ban v, ban vn, kiu may, cht liu, mu
[45]
[46]
sc , v cc th m , o, hia, ai, dy thao kp, dy thao n B
t: ban v, ty theo chc tc thu con k ln, con bch trch, s t, h
bo, voi; ban vn ty theo chc tc thu con tin hc, sa k, cng, vn
[47]
nhn, bch nhn , vt Ngoi ra cn c s phn bit qua o c lt
hoc khng c lt, c l ph sau hoc khng c l ph sau
Tuy cng c nhng trng hp cho php cc quan vn v linh ng mc
o vi bng hay gai vo chu, nu gp ngy ma, nhng trong nhng
ngy sc vng (rm, mng mt) v i l m cc quan vn v khng mc
triu phc, ch mc o thng trn trnh ngoi ca, im mc thiu th
phi xung vo qun i.
Giai on ny c s quy nh rt chi tit v phm phc trm quan khi i
triu cung in vua L v khi chu hu ph cha Trnh.

Tng quan hu

nhng cung n, hnh thc bi tc gn ln nh u t thi Trn n

thi L vn cn tn ti. i vua L Hin Tng (1418-1504) cho php cung
nhn khi hu thng c bi tc lch, lc ra tu nhc th i m ch inh
trn. trang sc c vng tay trn dt, hoa tai hnh qu bu, hnh hoa sen
hay khuyn trn.
Nhn c li tu v vic phm phc th Vn miu vn dng m o t
khu, nh th khng phi l t lng tn sng i vi ng thnh nhn, ng
thy ca vng mun i, nh vua cho ch o cn, m min th
Vn miu.
Thi ny cn c nhng th i nh: m tri quan, m bao nh (lm
bng lng ui nga), kiu trn, nh phng, cao mt thc (khong
33cm); khn bt tin lm bng on huyn hay sa the, cht vng quanh dn
dn ln, di buc quanh trn, bung v pha sau, hai bn mang tai c
dim, pha trn c gi my bng hoa cc; bc cn l loi khn dng c
kh la gp xp np li bt tc
Cho n nm 1781, v trang phc qun lnh cc trn khc nhau vn
c trang b theo kiu cch ring, mang du hiu khc nhau.
V trang phc ca qun khi ngha Ty Sn, c bit khi xung trn
chng qun cha Nguyn, h thng i khn , ci trn. Trong ngy
Nguyn Hu ln ngi hong , lnh tc v i m , mc o vc, vc
gm gio dn xung quanh n l t co tri t. Khong gia nm
1788, ngi ta thy nhng ngi lnh Ty Sn phc v cho Trung ng
hong Nguyn Nhc Quy Nhn, mc sc phc bng d mu xanh
thm, i nn da hoc bng giy sn du c ci hoa ghi ch bng st
[48]
ging chui kim hoc v kim .
TRANG PHC NHN DN
Di thi L - Mc - Trnh - Nguyn - Ty Sn, triu nh rt quan tm
n vn trang phc, khng nhng i vi quan, qun m c i vi
nhn dn lao ng, trn c s quyn li ca giai cp thng tr.

 phn bit ng cp v phng nhng hin tng tim ln, triu

nh ra lnh yt biu cm dn gian mc o mu vng, i hi, mang giy v
dng c chm rng, v phng.
[49]
Cm dt m mt
v cho rng nhiu ngi ct trm lng ui nga
ca triu nh lm m ny.
Cm nhn dn dng nn thy ma v nn sn l cc i ca qun
lnh bo v kinh thnh. Li cm lm v bn th nn sc trng nh phn.
Hin tng co trc u trong nhn dn b hn ch, ch c s si mi
c gt tc. Lnh ca triu nh: ngi khng phi s si khng c
gt tc.
Cm quan vin v nhn dn lm m bng ngc, thy tinh.
Qui nh kch thc tay o ca nhn dn rng 9 tc (khong 30cm), hp
hn kch thc o cc quan.
Cm nhn dn ven bin gii mc theo kiu trang phc phng Bc.
Nm 1776, L Qu n chc Hip trn tham tn qun c ti Thun Ha
cng nhc nh: Chnh tr v phong tc phi nn thng nht. Nu cn c
ngi mc qun o kiu ngi khch th nn i theo th ch nc
nh, m thng dng vi la, duy quan chc mi cho dng xen the l tru
on, cn gm vc v cc th hoa rng phng th nht thit khng c
dng cn. Thng phc n ng, n b dng o c ng, ngn tay, ca
ng tay rng, hp ty tin. Hai bn nch o tr xung phi khu lin cho
kn, khng c h hang. n ng mun mc o c trn v hp tay
cho tin lm vic cng c. L phc, dng o c ng, tay di, vi xanh
[50]
chm, vi en hay vi trng, ty nghi .
Mt thi k, k s, th dn i vic cng hay mc o mu xanh thanh ct,
lc thng mc o mu thm (truy y). Dn qu mc o vi mc. n giai
on sau t ngi mc mu thm v trng mc, m hu nh ch mc o
xanh thanh ct. o thanh ct c mu ha minh (xanh m), mu vi minh
(xanh nht) v mu qu, tc gi l mu sng. Ngi sang mc mu ha
minh, hng th mc mu vi minh, hng hn mc mu sng. Nhng nu c
quc tang th vng cng khanh s u mc mu sng. Song li n giai

on ngi sang k hn u chung mu sng v cho rng hai mu kia l

qu ma nn khng dng.
n b lao ng thng mc ym c xy, cnh tay trn, mc vy
[51]
ngn, tht lng th mi pha trc . u thng dng khn lt
[52]
cun tc, lc yt kin bc tn trng li xa tc xung lm knh l .
Trang phc n ng khng c g c bit. Khi lao ng thng ci trn,
ng kh.
Hnh thc bi tc vn ph bin. C thi gian khi i vic cng, ra ng
mc o mu qu, bi tc, i nn. Nhng ri bt c lc no ngi ta cng
mc o mu qu, u khng i nn m bi tc trn i ra ng, lm nhiu
nh nho nghim khc ln n cho l mt biu hin khng hay.
V ma lnh, ngoi nhng th o chng rt thng thng, c bit cn
c o cu. Mc o cu thng mt lng vo trong, mt b ra ngoi. o
cu ch yu l ca cc tng lp giu sang.
Trang phc ca cc nh tu hnh thi L u l cc loi o rng, thong
mt. Y phc ca s si khi hnh l cng c triu nh qui nh: ha
thng mc o mu lc, c sa bo mu , m cng mu . Tng chnh,
tng ph mc o xanh, c sa bo v m mu lc. Chng tng c ip
(chng ch cp cho tng ni, o s) th o en, c sa bo v m mu xanh.
Lc tr tr bnh thng th ha thng mc o xanh; tng chnh, tng ph o
en; chng tng o mc lan mu en xm.
i vi tng th cc v thn, cng c s quy nh, tr mt s v vo
hng ti linh vn nh c, cn li u phi theo nh sau: cc v thn
khng c dng m hp x xung thin m ch c i m phc u,
nhng nu l thn thng ng th trang sc bng vng, trung ng ch
qun vng. o bo khng c dng mu vng m may bng on mu
hng, thn thng ng thu hai con rng, trung ng mt con rng, h
ng thu c ha rng. Cm thu rng 5 mng v i hi on (?). B t
thng ng dng hnh long m, trung v h ng hnh k ln. ai dng
hng a la hoa t (?). Thn thng ng trang sc bng vng, trung v h
ng qun vng, tt mu en.

Thi L, trong x hi thy c nhiu loi nn: n ng, n b thn qu

i nn xun li tiu, tc gi l nn s nh. Cn c loi nn lin dip, tc
gi l nn l sen, ngi ln v tr con u dng. Tuy nhin tr con c ring
loi nn tiu lin dip, tc gi l nn nh khun. Ngi gi i nn ngoan
xc, tc gi l nn mn gii hay l nn tam giang. Con nh quan v hc tr
i nn phng u i, tc gi l nn l. Ngi ln tui thuc h hng
nh quan i nn c chu, tc gi l nn du. Lnh trng i trao lp, tc
gi l nn cho vnh. Ngi hu v v con lnh trng i nn vin u, tc
gi l nn khua. Nh s i nn cu din, tc gi l nn mt l. (V sau
nhiu nh s gi l nn tu l). Ngi c tang i nn xun li i, tc gi
l nn cp. Ngi c tr mt nm tr xung i nn c chu, quai bng
my. Nh quan v nh quyn th c tang i nn cu din phn bit vi
thng dn. Ngi trong Thanh, Ngh i nn vin c, tc gi l nn
Ngh C thi gian thn qu theo dng nn ngoan xc m lm thp
[53]
phn trn i, gi l nn toan b, tc gi l nn v ba
Ngoi nhng iu bng vn t li, mt s tng tranh ca thi ny
cn cho ta bit c th thm v trang phc trong triu nh hay ngoi nhn
dn nh qua tranh Quan vn vinh quy hoc Chn dung Nguyn Tri (d
c th l v sau mi v), ta thy nhiu hnh nh rt gn vi chi tit trong
sch ghi v phm phc triu L: m cnh chun, hai cnh hng v
pha trc, tay o rng, ngc c b t thu, mang ai, chn i hia.
C th k n tng chn dung vua L Thn Tng bng g cha Mt,
Thanh Ha. Tng ta thin, mc long bo, i m xung thin c trang tr
cc hnh chu ngc, my la
V tng cha Trnh, c th nhc n tng cha Uy Nam Vng Trnh
Giang th cha Kim Lin, H Ni. Tng i m, mc o vn lnh, my
ru phong nh, tay cm ht, c bit l hai chn trn. C l l do nh
cng n trng tu cha ca cha Trnh Giang nn nhn dn tc tng
th. Hin nay cha Kim Lin vn c mt tng nhng c kin cho rng
l tng Tnh Vng, Trnh Sm. Tng cao to, bng ngi tht,
i m hnh tr ng (c l l m thng thin ci tin), pha sau hi cao
hn pha trc. Gia trn m tc mt hnh bu dc ni nm ngang (tng
trng cho vin ngc ln) t trn mt ng vin rng (khong 4cm) chy

quanh chn m. St trn ng vin c trang tr nhng hnh my xon.

Nhiu cm my kiu ny kch thc to hn, c nhc li quanh phn
trn thn m gip vi nh m. T mi cm my l mt hng nm trn nh
tng trng cho nhng vin ngc qu ni nhau cng hai g nh hai bn
chy dc xung ng vin chn m. Mt trc m l mt hnh mi mc
chm ni nh ln t m vn my. Sau thn m l hnh hai cun my ln
p i xng. o tng l loi o thng, ng tay o rt rng bung di
xung gn c chn. Chn i hi v ch l ra phn mi hi cong, trang tr
nhng ha tit hoa vn p.
Mt pho tng bng , c coi l tng chn dung Hu Pht Mc
ng Dung t ti cha Tr Phng, Hi Phng (1562). u tng i
m hnh tr ng, nh bng (ging kiu m c ch vng ca tng
Ngc Hong cha Trung Hnh, Hi Phng (1583) (c th l loi bnh thin).
Thnh m ca tng Mc ng Dung kh cao, gia trn m tc ni hnh
chim ang chc u, xe cnh bay xung (cng ging nh tng Ngc
Hong lm bng g ti cha Ngo, H Ty (1589). Hai bn hnh chim, c
nhng ng song hnh cch xa nhau khc xin ln theo hng phi, tri.
Pha di m l mt g vin, rng bng 1/5 chiu cao m, chy quanh trn
c nhiu chm trn nh biu th cho nhng vin ngc qu c t st
cnh nhau hnh thnh mt ng trang tr na. o ngoi ca tng rng,
di, c khot nhn; phn trn ngc, vai, lng c chm chm hnh vn kin
c trn, chnh gia trang tr mt na bng hoa to mn khai. Pha di vn
kin l mt b t hnh vung chm rng. ( tng Ngc Hong cha Ngo,
H Ty; cha Trung Hnh, cha Nhn Trai, Hi Phng, cng c b t).
Bng tng eo ai c trang tr trm, hoa cc

Chn dung Nguyn Tri

Tng vua L Thn Tng (Thanh Ha)

Tng Tnh Vng Trnh Sm (H Ni)

Tng hu pht (cha Nhn Trai, Hi Phng)

Tng hu pht Mc ng Dung (cha Tr Phng, Hi Phng)

Thi Mc, cc cha u c th nhiu tng Pht. Nghin cu v trang

phc, ta thy mt s vn c th tham kho cc tng Quan m.
Nhn chung, cc tng Quan m u i m. M thng gm mt vnh
ngoi, c khi trang tr cc hnh tng Pht nh (nh cha Bi Kh, H
Ty), ba hnh tng Pht nh (Tam Th) ngi trn ta sen, mt chnh
gia trn m, hai hnh hai bn, ngay trn hai tai tng, c khi s lng
n mi u Pht t cnh nhau hai bn mt hnh l ni chnh gia
trn m (cha Thng Trng, Vnh Phc). M no khng c hnh tng
Pht nh th c nhng hnh ba khi u trn t chng ln nhau, di to, trn
nh dn. Ngoi ra cng c khi l nhng hnh hoa cc, hoa sen (cha a
Tn, Gia Lm, H Ni), hoa dy (cha Ha Liu, Hi Phng), cc nm trn,
hnh my (cha Thng Trng, Vnh Phc) nh m thng c mt b
phn nh ln che bi tc. Tm che bi tc tng Quan m (cha Bi
Kh) l nm hnh cnh sen, trn mt tng cnh sen l mt hnh mt Pht.
Pha sau m l tm khn ph xung lng

o cc tng Quan m gm nhiu lp, o ngoi thng, m gia, hai vt

di, np to, c buc li vi nhau; o trong nh hnh ym c trn. Bao
lng tht cao khong gia bng v ngc, buc mi, bung hai u ha
ln vi cc vt o. Kiu tht lng ny ging nh pho tng hu Pht
(cha Bi Kh, H Ty, , 1529); tng b Nguyn Th Ngc Ton, v
vua Mc ng Dung (, 1551) l tng hu Pht cha Tr Phng,
Hi Phng.
Trong giai on ny, cc cha, ngoi tng Pht, cn nhiu loi tng
khc nhau, nh tng Ngc Hong, tng c ng, tng H Php,
tng Hu, v.v D loi no, vic to hnh khn, m, o cng t nhiu
mang kiu dng ca trang phc cc tng lp nhn dn ng thi. Do ,
vi quan nim Ngc Hong l vua trn tri th ngi ta vn c th cho pho
tng mc nh vua trn th. Tng Ngc Hong cha Bi Kh i m c
mt ming vn g mng hnh vung t trn nh m, bn gc c nh bn
tua r. Thn m y khng ch l mt khi hnh tr m chia lm hai nc
cao thp v c chm khc trang tr rt p. trn m, ni ln trn cc hnh
my hoa, l by hnh vnh khn m vnh ngoi mi hnh l nhng nm
nh tng trng cho nhng vin qu. Ring hnh trn cng c chm
khc thm nhng li la bao quanh bc cao. mt bng nc thp, c
ming che nh ln, trn nhc li ba hnh vnh khn cng nn my. Pha
trong cng l thnh ca nc trn m khc hnh cc cun my lm ng
vin cho pha trn nh m. Di cc cun my ny l nhng ng song
hnh chm ni ko di xung nc m pha di. Hai cun my to p ton
b pha sau thn m.
Tng Ngc Hong mang long bo, gn nh c chm khc khp
thn o (vai, ngc, lng, vt, tay o) hnh rng, phng, my, hoa, ni,
sng nc cch iu. C o vin np to. B t vung mang hnh rng.
Vt o ph gn kn c bn chn nn ch thy hai mi hi cong nhn. Hai
bn cnh i cn c eo trang tr nhng ming dt vi cc hnh a gic
kt thc bng nhng tua, nhng di vi mi nhn ni chng ln nhau
(nh nhng di phn nh cha), bung xung n bn chn.
Quan st bc tranh chn dung v chng vua L Nam , c v mu
trn g Thi Bnh, ta thy kiu o hong bo c ng vin chy quanh
chn c o, n gia c ngi mc, u hai ng vin ny chp nhau

ko xung ni vi mt hnh ch nht rng. y l kiu c phng tm

khc c bit n trn triu phc ca hong nh Tng (Trung
Quc, th k X - XIII) Nh vy, kiu c o ny phi xut hin sau thi tin
L Vit Nam. Cc nh nghin cu m thut cho bit bc tranh c v
vo cui th k XVIII u th k XIX, nn hin tng trn cng khng c g
ng ngc nhin. Cng vy, i chiu vi mt s pho tng cha Thy
(cha c t thi L - Trn), cha Bi Kh (nin i tng 1527) thuc tnh
H Ty, kiu c phng tm khc c th hin gin lc, khng
c trau chut lm v khng c hnh ch nht rng, nhng trn b mt
ca ng vin li trang tr nhng hnh trn hi ni vi cc khong cch
u nhau.
Trang phc ca ph n trong cung nh cng c phn nh trn nhng
tng chn dung hay cc bc chm g, nh tng cc v vua L,
tng ngi hu trong cung.

Tng th cha Bi Kh

Tng th cha Bi Kh (chi tit)

o c phng tm khc ca vua nh Tng (Trung Quc)

Trong h thng tng chn dung cc b v vua L Thn Tng (1607 1660) ti cha Mt (ng Sn, Thanh Ha), cha Trch Lm (Bm Sn,
Thanh Ha), cha Bt Thp (Bc Ninh), ta thy c nhng nt chung nh:
hu ht u mc ym c trn trong cng. Ngoi ym l lp o c np to
bt cho; vt bn tri ln vt bn phi, c mt di tht lng buc gi
khng cho bung xung. Ngoi cng l tm o thng m gia nu c np
th np vin hai t cng rt rng, vng qua c chy xung n gu o, c
trang tr hoa vn hoc khng. Tt c cc tng u mc vy, t th ngi
xp bng, cc tm o u rng v i. c bit c mt tng (tng b
cha Ng - Trng Th Ngc Ch) na phn thn trn trn, khng mc
ym, o g.
[54]
Mt vi tng eo vn kin
thu p. Tip di l nhng di vi
thu (hoc bng gm?) mi nhn, xp cnh nhau, thnh my lp chm ni
ln nhau ph kn phn bng, di xung n i ngi mc. u c trang tr
hoa vn p.
M mi tng c nhng khc bit (c l l ni ln ngi th) . Nh
m ca tng Chnh cung Hong Thi Hu Trnh Th Ngc Trc (cha Mt,
Thanh Ha) v tng ca mt vi b hong khc, c hnh Pht ta thin
gia vng vn my xon (hay hnh ngn la?) bay ln, trong khi cc
tng khc th khng c. Phn nh m cng khng ging nhau. D vy, tt
c cc m u c chm khc tinh vi cho ta cm gic l c lm bng
vng, nh trn chu bo ngc sang trng. Cc m u c hai di la t
sau tai bung xung hai bn vai. Trng hp m khng c hai di la th
tng y c mt di la rng bn buc ly bi tc nh u ri bung
xung cng m tc dy v di xa kn lng rt p.

Tng b Cha Ma (Thanh Ha)

Tng b Cha Ma vi ngi hu (Hng Yn)

C tng khng i m kiu vng min m i m bt c hoc u

trn, ph hp vi kiu trang phc gin d ca nh tu hnh (tng cha

Bt Thp, Bc Ninh).
trang sc khng c g c bit, nu c ch l i vng tay eo mi
c tay, hoc l mt chui trng ht, ht kh to, eo c tng. Ngoi ra
[55]
c nhng dy anh lc
eo trc ngc.
Ngoi tng cc hong hu, cng cha, qun cha, phi tn, thi ny cn
li nhng tc phm iu khc chn dung m phn trang phc c th
hin kh chn thc nh i tng Th gi, n mang ym c xy, nam
mc o khng tay, cnh tay v mt phn bng h, tai eo hoa, c tay
eo vng, bng tht hai dy lng buc mi. V c bit l cha Du
(Bc Ninh) c pho tng Ngc N c ngi (to gn bng ngi tht), u
vn khn, tc r ng ngi gia, chi mt sang hai bn. o di, c o
cao t pha sau gy, h thp dn hai bn xung n gia c; tay o cht.
Vn kin qung trn vai, lng, ngc. Vy di v rng, phn eo c mt tm
quy quanh bng ph ln phn u ca nhng di vi nhn mi, nhiu
mu, vin ni, chm ln nhau (nh nhng di phn nh cha), ni di
xung n tn chn. Ngoi tm quy l dy lng buc mi trc bng
bung xung ha quyn cng cc di mu trang tr. y l hnh tng kh
r nt v ngi ph n thi L c nhng chi tit o, vy gn gi vi hnh
thc n phc cc thi i sau cho ti ngy nay.

Tng Hong thi hu v vua L Thn Tng (Thanh Ha)

Tng Cng cha L Th Ngc Duyn (cha Bt Thp)

Tng v vua L Thn Tng (cha Mt)

Tng B Cha Ng (cha Du)

Tng Hong thi hu Trnh Th Ngc Trc (Thanh Ha)

Cn c th k n mt s tng hu cc cha gii thiu cung cch

trang phc ca mt lp ngi ph n. Nh tng hu Pht cha Bi
Kh (H Ty): tng c chm trc tip vo mt khi ln (gn nh
ph iu). u i mt dim trang tr hnh hoa l v tht mt di c ni ln
nhng nm trn ngay pha di. Tai eo n hoa trn. o di mc mc,
rng ri, hai vt trc c np to ni ngc vng qua c, bung ph xung
phn vy. Bn trong o, mc ym c xy. Tht lng buc mi th hai di
di trc bng.

Tng Th gi (cha Bt Thp)

Tng t nh tng hu trn, tng hu cha Tr Phng, Hi

Phng (cng bng tc nh ph iu) l tng b Nguyn Th Ngc
Ton, v vua Mc ng Dung. L tng v vua, nhng tng hu ny
va biu th mt tinh thn hng thin, va ni ln s gn gi gia o v
i qua nhng nt trang phc gin d: u khng i khn, khng i m;
mc o hai vt trc c vin np to, bung i cng hai ng tay o rng
ph kn c u gi. Do hai vt o khng khp kn nn trn ngc tng
l tm ym v trc bng l di tht lng quen thuc ca ngi ph n
Vit Nam. Tai eo hoa. Nhng hng ch c khc mt sau tng cho
bit tng c lm vo nm Tn Hi (1551). Hai tng trn c th l
nhng tng hu Pht c bit n kh sm nc ta, phn no cho
thy loi o di m gia ny c k tha v ph bin rng ri.

Tm hiu v i qua mt s pho tng th k XVII, cn thy ph

bin mt kiu m hai bn thnh ko di ra pha sau (trc c th l loi
khn) nh trn bc chm V s m kim bng trc lng Nguyn
Cng Triu, (Li Yn, Hoi c, H Ty); trn bc chm g Ngi ci
voi nh lng Hong X, H Ty; trn bc chm g Mt iu ma nh
C M, Bc Ninh. Xa hn na vo tn nh Honh Sn, Ngh An, trn bc
chm g Vinh Quy, Ng t ng khoa (th k XVIII) l cng dng kiu
m ngy nay ta thy trn u cc chng trai ng vai chin binh din li
tch theo ng Ging nh gic n t thi vua Hng th 6 trong cc ngy
hi Ging (Ph ng, Gia Lm, H Ni)
Hoc nh kiu m chm nhn m st u c thy tng quan hu
t ti lng L Thnh Tng (Thanh Ha) cui th k XV, khng khc g kiu
m tng chm g cnh trai gi tnh t, hay tng Chng ngi ti nh
Ty ng, Ba V, H Ty (th k XVI).

Tng Ngc N (cha Du)

Tng Kim ng (cha Du)

Hoc nh kiu m hnh trn theo khun u, c vnh hp chy quanh

pha trc, trn nh m c chm dt, rng, pho tng Ngi cm chy

t lng inh Hng, Hip Ha, Bc Ninh (th k XV) phi chng l tin
thn ca loi m Ngi ci bo tng g (na sau th k XVII) nh
Chu Quyn, Ba V, H Ty, cng l loi m c v trong tranh Quan v
thuc th k XVIII n c Li, Ngh An. C s pht trin l thn m
c lm thm chp trn cao v c nhng mi dc t nh xung vnh m
trng nh hnh qu b ng v nh m c trang tr ng
K t thi Hng Vng dng nc, n nh L, ta thy y l mt
vng triu m mi t chc trong x hi u ang c chnh qui ha
tng bc mt cch cht ch, hon chnh.
Qu trnh khng chin nh ui gic Minh ginh thng li to ln cho t
nc bi p thm trong nhn dn truyn thng v thc t cng,
c lp dn tc. Bnh Ng i co ca Nguyn Tri, thin anh hng ca bt
h, bn tuyn ngn c lp th hai ca dn tc vn cn vang vng trn
khp ni sng thm m trong t tng, tm hn tng con ngi i
Vit, mt dn tc c nn vn hin lu, mt t nc c phong tc tp
qun tt p.

1. Tng hu b Nguyn Th Ngc Ton, v vua Mc ng Dung (cha Tr Phng, Hi Phng). 2.

Tng hu (cha Bi Kh, H Ty)

Bn cnh yu t truyn thng chin u, thc c lp dn tc, nn np

thm m, triu L chp nhn v vn dng t tng Nho gio trong cng

vic tr dn, khng th khng chu nh hng ca nn vn ha phng

Bc trong nhng ngy cng c xy dng t nc.
Khong ba trm nm tr v, ring trong lnh vc trang phc quan qun v
nhn dn, triu nh trn hai mi ln qui nh, nhc nh. Vua L Thnh
Tng, trong khong t nm 1466 n nm 1488 c ti su ln ra chiu,
ra d v trang phc. Vua L D Tng c thi k c trung bnh hai, ba nm
li ni n vn trang phc.
Quan tm n trang phc, nh hnh dn cc mu hnh, mu sc qun o,
m, giy i vi triu nh - trung tm iu khin gung my hot ng
ca c nc - l mt yu cu khng th thiu. Triu nh l b mt quc
gia, khng cho php nhng ngi i din cho quc gia n mc ty tin.
Ch ring v vic lm m, vua L cho thnh lp mt c s chuyn sn
xut gi l Cc quan tc (Cc lm m). Theo di, trng coi vic nui tm v
trng du, c 36 S tm tang V triu phc, nhn chung l chu nh
hng ca Trung Quc, nhng nh L khng rp khun my mc, m vn
c nhng tng ring, nh trong h thng hoa dng b t, nm 1500,
vua L Hin Tng, nm 1721, vua L D Tng a hnh tng con voi
vo trong khi cc b t ca nh Minh khng h c.
c bit l trong quan h ngoi giao, triu nh ra lnh cho cc cng,
hu, b, ph m v cc quan vn, quan v phi theo nhng qui nh v y
phc tip s Minh, khng c dng c, xu.
Vua, cha, quan, qun c trang b i, mc, i theo
nhng ch cht ch vi quan nim ca vua L Thnh Tng: Triu nh
l ch l nhc, y phc ph v p, danh phn r rng, khng th sai
vt c, nhng th o gip, m tr l lm cho dung nghi qun s
[56]
c hng mnh . Nh vy, trang phc cn l phng tin biu
dng uy lc, t r th bc trn di. Ni cch khc, s phn bit giai
cp, ng cp c biu hin r nt trn hnh thc trang phc triu L.
C th dn chng thm bng nhng lnh cm nhn dn v trang phc,
khng cho php ln ln gia vua, quan, qun, dn (khng c mc o
kch thc nh o cc quan, khng c mc mu vng, i hi, i nn
thy ma, nn sn , v.v).
S phn chia giai cp, ng cp qua trang phc ang tip din, nhng

c bit l thc c lp dn tc trong lnh vc ny vn cn m nt

Trong khi cm nhn dn khng c vi phm kiu cch v mu sc ca
trang phc triu nh, nh nc cn ra lnh cho nhn dn khng c mc
o theo kiu phng Bc. Cuc u tranh gay gt v quan im dn tc,
v thc c lp, t ch gia Nguyn Tri v Lng ng trong lnh vc
quy ch trang phc (v m nhc) cng l mt biu hin. ng tic l vua L
Thi Tng, tui cn tr, b Lng ng tc ng, ph nhn Nguyn
Tri, t ra nhng ch m o (v nhc kh) chu nh hng khng t t
cc qui ch ca nh Minh.
Cng nh cc vng triu phong kin trc, sau nhng nm hng thnh,
n lc ny sinh nhng mu thun ni ti, tng lp thng tr n chi sa
a, ch qun ch chuyn ch i bi ngy cng suy thoi v mi mt,
y nhn dn lao ng n cuc sng i kh, bn cng.

Tng g th k XVI, XVII vi mt s kiu m

Tng g th k XVI, XVII vi mt s kiu m

Tng qun cng Nguyn Th M (Hi Dng)

Nh Mc ln thay nh L dn n cuc xung t Nam - Bc triu, tip

theo l nhng nm phn tranh Trnh - Nguyn. Hai min t nc chu
cnh tm thi chia ct, nhn dn lm vo cuc sng kh khn, c bit l
v vt cht. D i kh, ngi dn trong manh o v vai vn cn c lao
ng, on kt thng yu nhau, ra sc gi vng v pht huy truyn thng
vn ha tt p, trong khi giai cp phong kin thng tr ngy cng i vo
con ng xa hoa try lc, by v cc li n chi Trong th k XVI XVII, s suy yu ca ch tp quyn chuyn ch bc l r. l mt
trong nhng c s to iu kin cho dng ngh thut dn gian pht trin
mnh m. T nhng tc phm ngh thut dn gian, nh cc bc chm g
nh cha thi , ta thy li cnh i cy, n g, bi thuyn, nh vt,

 cu, cnh trai gi vui chi, v.v, th hin ht sc sinh ng cuc sng
bnh d, lnh mnh, lc quan ca nhn dn lao ng. Di thi ny, ngoi
nhng b phm phc i triu, thng triu sang trng, qua nhng bc
chm g bnh d, cn thy c nhng m tc di, vnh khn trn ln, chic
ym vung, di tht lng, tm vy, ca ngi ph n, mnh kh quen
thuc ca cc v s, ca chng trai nng dn m tnh cht dn tc,
dn gian.

Thi Nguyn - Php thuc

Triu Nguyn (1802-1945), vng triu cui cng ca giai cp phong
kin nc ta, cng v sau cng t ra bt lc vi b my thng tr hon
ton ph thuc vo s ch huy ca thc dn Php.
u thi Nguyn, trang phc ca vua quan cng c qui nh t m nh
nhng triu i phong kin trc v c t trong s qun l ca B
l.

Hnh vua T c i m

TRANG PHC TRIU NH

Vua Gia Long ln ngi nm 1802 - sau l cc vua Minh Mng, Thiu
Tr, T c
Trang phc ca cc vua, cc hong thn, hong t, cc quan vn v u
i Nguyn c nhiu loi m, o, xim, ai, hia c s dng trong cc
dp nghi l khc nhau, u phi theo qui nh:

L phc ca vua trong t Giao:

- M min, thn m trn ng, an bng dy thau, rng hp ty c u,

mt ngoi bc la mu huyn, trong lt la mu , gia nh 2 ch Vn
Th hoc ch Thin a bng vng. t ln trn thn m l mt vn g
mng hnh ch nht, cnh trc v cnh sau eo 24 dy tua bng vng,
xu 300 ht san h, trn chu, pha l v 400 ht vng. Xung quanh thn m
c 12 hnh rng vng, 6 hnh ngn la cng bng vng. Li khm hnh hoa
sen v m my bng 256 ht vng. Khi i m, dng mt khn cht trn
i cho cht (vng cn). Khn dt bng t vng.
- o long cn bng sa bng mu thanh thin, c trn bng on bt ty
mu quan lc, trong lt la trng. Thn o thu nhiu ha tit, mt tri, mt
trng, sao, my, ni, rng Vt o thu rng, my, sng nc Tay o
cng c ha tit hnh hai con rng quay u xung. Bn trong l o n
mu bch tuyt, ca tay thu hnh rng my.
- Xim bng sa mu vng, di vin gm, thu ha tit ngn la, ht
go, hnh pht (hnh ch ), hnh ph (hnh li ru, li ba), li cn nh
cc th ngc bi, khnh ngc, ngc hunh, ht vn mu, san h, h
phch Khi i li, cc th va chm vo nhau, pht ra m thanh.
- Trm bng ngc, thn khm hnh rng bng trn chu.
- ai lm bng da bc on mu vng, gia nh mt ming ngc trng
hnh vung, xung quanh gn 6 vin ngc trng hnh qu trm, bt vng 392
ht chu ngc, bn trong c 6 khuy nh vo o.
- Hia, ngoi bc on mu en, trong lt on mu . Xung quanh thu
hnh rng, my, nh ngc, kim cng v nhng ming knh cng nhiu th
khc.

Vua Thnh Thi

o t ca vua Minh Mng

T phc ca hong thn, hong t:

- M min dt bng lng ui nga, ngoi bc on mu en, trong lt
nhiu , thn m vin kim tuyn, trang tr hnh ni, hnh hoa, 4 giao long
bng vng. Trc v sau m c 18 dy tua, mi tua xu 9 ht ngc.
- o bng on mu xanh, c trn, thn sau thu hnh ni, hai vai thu
ngn la, chim tr, nm ru; pha trc nh b t nn , thu hnh rng
4 mng; tay o thu 2 con rng.
- Xim bng on mu , gm 7 bc thu hnh hoa, hnh ht go, hnh
ph, hnh pht.
- Trm bng ng bt vng, c dy tua r eo ngc trn.

- ai bc on mu , gia trang tr mt ming vung, hai bn 6 ming

hnh qu trm bng i mi bt vng.
- Hia nh hia trong triu phc.

o thng triu ca vua Minh Mng

T phc ca quan vn, quan v (t chnh, nh phm tr ln):

- M min, nh m ca hong thn nhng ch c 2 giao long, 2 bng hoa
v 12 tua, mi tua xu 6 ht cm xanh v .
- Trm bng ng.
- o bng on mu xanh c trn, vai v thn sau thu bng hoa trn, ht
go, 2 ng tay o thu cy rong, nm ru. Pha trc o quan vn c b
t nn thu chim nhn, m my; o quan v thu con bo.

- Xim bng la mu , pha trc thu hnh ph, hnh pht.

- ai bng da bc mu , 6 ming trang sc bt ng, m vng.
- Hia nh triu phc.

T phc ca quan vn, quan v (t tng nh phm n tam phm):

- M min (nh trn) c 8 dy tua r, xu 4 ht cm xanh , thn m
vin kim tuyn, pha trc c hnh ni v 2 bng hoa trn bng vng.
- Trm bng ng.
- o bng on mu xanh, c trn. Vai thn sau v hai ng tay o thu
bng hoa trn, ht go. Pha trc nh b t nh trn.
- Xim bng on mu nht (cc hnh trang tr nh trn).
- ai, hia nh trn.

Trang phc i triu ca vua:

- M: 9 rng thng thin, cn nh 31 hnh rng nh bng vng tt, 3 hnh
ngn la chy, c trang sc bng ngc ha t, kim cng, trn chu
140 ht, mt rng khm ngc trn chu nh.
- o hong bo bng sa on mu vng, thu rng ln, rng nh, my,
thy ba (sng nc), v 4 ch phc th, trong lt sa dy hoc tru
thu hoa. C o bng on mu tuyt trng, 2 tay o mi tay c 1 hnh
rng, ha lu, san h kt bng cc chui ht ngc nh. 2 cnh bng
on mu lam thm, mt trc mt sau mi mt c 2 ch vn th v 3
hnh rng.
- Xim: bng sa mng trng, hoa mu , dt kiu rng cun trn, thy
ba, c (mt loi bn, trn c t mt s l hoa, l c), bt bo (tm th
qu nh cun th, thanh kim, n so, bu ru, ti th).
- ai: bng vng, c 18 mnh hnh di, vung, hnh ci mc bng sng t
bc vng, khm 92 ht trn chu.
- Hia: mu en, thu rng, my, thy ba v hoa bng kim tuyn, trong lt
mu .

- Tt: pha trn mu lam thm, pha di mu trng thu rng, my, thy
ba, hi vn kim tuyn

Trang phc thng triu ca vua:

- M cu long.
- o bo bng sa mu vng thu rng ln cun trn, bt bo, thy ba,
mt rng u khm h phch huyn, c o mu vng thu rng my, 2 tay
o c kt chui hnh bng chu ngc.
- Xim, hia, tt nh i triu.
Ngoi ra, tham d mt s t chc t l khc vua cn c l phc nh sau:
- M xun thu bng sa nhiu mu en, nh 1 hoa bc, khm 1 ht pha l
trng.
- o: lt bng sa mng mu tuyt trng dt rng, my, thy ba. Hoc lm
bng nhiu mu thin thanh, dt rng my, lt bng lnh, ha tit 12 hoa
mu n mu ngc lam.
- Xim: bng sa mng hoa nh mu ngc lam, mu lc, thin thanh.
- Hia: mu en, trong lt lnh mu lam thm.
- Tt: mu lam thm, pha di mu trng.

Trang phc khi duyt binh:

- M v, mu en trong lt on mu vng, nh 4 con rng, 1 hnh ngn
la chy, thm 2 con rng v my, mt rng khm bng trn chu, trang
sc chu ngc v lan can kim tuyn.
- o bo hp tay bng sa mng mu vng thu rng, my, thy ba, c ,
bt bo, trong lt tru hoa , hoa mu n hnh bm Vai o lin vi
c thu rng, my, thy ba, c , bt bo.
- Xim mu vng, trong lt thu 2 con phng v cc hnh hoa, rng,
my, thy ba cn nh hn 300 ht ngc, pha l, trn chu. Hn 50 ci
di bng kim tuyn r xung

- ai trang sc hnh chim loan, trang sc 9 hnh hoa bng ngc trn chu,
san h.
- Hia: mu en ln sc vng, trong lt vi t hoa .
[57]
:

Trang phc khi cy tch in

- i m cu long mu vng, mc long bo hp tay.

- ai, hia nh khi duyt binh.
D l cy tch in, hong t cc cng i m dt vng, mc o bo
hp tay. Cc quan vn v, nh chp s mc bo mu lam, hp tay, quan
v i m u h, quan vn i m vn cng, xun thu, bt cu phm i
m anh cn, mc o mu hp tay, dy lng bng la mu lam.

V phc thu rng ca vua thi Nguyn

Vua Thnh Thi mc thng phc

Vua Hm Nghi mc thng phc

Gia Long nm th 5 (1806), nh vua ban chiu qui nh phm phc i

triu v thng triu cho cc hng vn v, tm lc nh sau:

Phm phc i triu quan vn:

Cc quan t trn nht phm n chnh tht phm, tng tht phm u
i m cnh chun u trn, nhng ty cp bc thp, cao m c nh t
hay nhiu vng, bc, qu trn m.
o mng bo c trn. Chc cao nht th mu ta ri n cc hng thp:
mu lc, lam, xanh, en T chc chnh, tng t phm tr xung mc o
bo hoa.
ai, thn mu , trang sc vng, ngc, bc, i mi Mt trc v
sau o hnh mang bn mng, cn th hnh con hc
Xim thu con tin hc xen ln hoa sc . Chnh, tng tam phm: thu
cm k; chnh, tng ng phm thu vn nhn; chnh, tng lc phm thu
bch nhn; chnh tht phm thu con c.
Hia, mu en, mi vung. Tt vin gm.

Quan vn mc l phc

Tuy L Vng mc l phc

Phm phc thng triu quan vn:

T trn nht phm n chnh tam phm, tng tam phm i m vn
cng, trang sc bng vng c hai di nh hoa vng, cn ngc. o bng
sa on, mu xanh, lc, lam, en, v.v, hoc thu hoa, c cho mu trng.
B t nn vng thu tin hc. Xim, hia, tt ging nh phm phc i triu.
T chnh t phm, tng t phm n chnh, tng lc phm i m ng
pha, pha trc, pha sau ci mt hoa bng vng, cn hnh giao long, hnh
hoa khc bng bc c. o bng sa on, mu xanh, lam, lc, c cho
B t nn , thu chim cng (chnh, tng t phm), thu vn nhn (chnh,
tng ng phm), thu bch nhn (chnh, tng lc phm).
Chnh tht phm, tng tht phm n chnh cu phm, tng cu phm
i m vn t ti. Kiu may, mu sc o v hia, tt ging cp bc trn. B
t, bc chnh nn , bc tng nn xanh. Chnh, tng tht phm thu hnh

con c; chnh bt phm con k xch; chnh cu phm thu chim liu, chim
thun. Xim mu xanh, lc ty nhng hai bn khng thu hoa chm.

Cc quan mc triu phc

Phm phc i triu quan v:

Trn nht phm n chnh lc phm, tng lc phm u i m phc u
cnh chun vung. Ty theo cp bc t thp n cao m hai cnh, mp
c vin bc, vng, qu
o mang bo mu ta c trn, (trn nht phm), mu xanh, lc, lam,
en ty (cp bc di nht phm).
T chc chnh, tng t phm tr xung, mc bo hoa.
ai, thn mu , trang sc vng hoc bc, hay i mi Xim thu k
ln xen hoa mu (trn nht phm), thu bch trch, s t, h, bo, gu
(di nht phm n chnh, tng lc phm).

Ty Thin Vng Min Thm i m bnh nh

Phm phc thng triu quan v:

Trn nht phm n chnh tam phm, tng tam phm i m h u nm
vng. o bng sa on mu xanh, lc, lam en ty , cho n tam phm
thu hoa cng c. C o cho, mu trng. B t nn kim tuyn, thu k
ln (trn nht phm v chnh, tng nht phm), chnh, tng nh phm thu
bch trch (mt ging th thn b), s t (chnh, tng tam phm).
T chnh t phm, tng t phm n chnh, tng lc phm i m xun
thu. o, xim, hia, tt nh cp bc trn. B t thu hnh h (chnh, tng t
phm), bo vn (chnh, tng ng phm), gu (chnh, tng lc phm).
T chnh tht phm n chnh, tng cu phm i m anh trung. o,
xim, hia, tt nh cp bc trn. B t nn xanh, thu beo (chnh, tng tht
phm), t ngu (chnh, tng cu phm).

Trang phc ca hong hu:

- M cu phng (9 con phng), thn m lm bng lng ui nga. Trn

m c 9 hnh rng, 9 hnh phng bng vng, 9 ming bn khoan bng
bc, 1 cp tc trang tr my, hoa, 1 ming hnh ni, 12 hnh hoa, con bm
v nhiu hnh hoa dy trang sc ch chn tc. Pha sau l hnh 1 con
phng bng vng, 4 trm bc cng cc di kt bng 198 ht trn chu
nh. Cc ht pha l c khm m l 231 ht. Khn bt trn bng on
thin thanh trong lt lnh mu vng u trang sc 4 khoen vng, 4 si dy
t.
- Hong bo bng on mu vng, thu hoa on phng (hoa trn
trong c 2 hnh chim phng), pha di thu thy ba. C o bng nhiu
mu tuyt trng; o lt bng tru, ha tit hoa, chim phng
- Xim bng on mu tuyt, thu hoa on phng mu vng, lt v
dy lng bng la mu trng.
- ai bng sa trc bc on mu vng, trang sc 18 mnh vung mu
vng, c mt knh khm hoa vng v hai mc vng.
- Hi bng t mu , thu hnh phng mu lc. Tt bng lnh bng mu
tuyt trng.

Trang phc ca hong thi hu:

- M cu phng (9 con phng), trn c 1 vng ai bng vng. M
cng c trang tr, trang sc bng chu ngc kim knh rt sang trng.
- Bo bng sa mng mu vng, thu ch th bng vng, thu hoa, thy
ba, c im ngc san h kim knh, trong lt tru hoa mu .
- Xim bng on hoa mu , thu on phng, thy ba, im kim
knh
- Tt bng lnh trng bng lt tru nn hoa
- Hi bng t vng thu phng c trang sc ngc san h, trn chu.
- Khn qung bng on gm tu mu vng thu hoa mu n, phng,
lt la vng.

Trang phc ca cung tn:

- Cung tn bc 2: m ng phng, cp tc bng vng, trm hoa, o nht

bnh bng sa mu o , ha tit on loan (hoa trn trong c hnh chim
loan), xim bng t mu trng dt on loan.
- Cung tn bc 3: m tam phng, cp tc bng vng, trm ngc, o nht
bnh mu ta, ha tit on phng (hoa trn trong c hnh chim phng).
Xim bng t mu trng, dt on loan (hoa trn trong c hnh chim loan).
- Cung tn bc 4: m nht phng, cp tc bng vng, trm hoa. o nht
bnh bng sa, sc ta nht dt on loan. Xim mu trng dt chim loan.

o nghi l ca b T Cung (v vua Khi nh)

Mt mnh ph trong trang phc

Hong hu trong trang phc

Hong Thi Hu oan Huy

Trang phc ca hong thi t:

M i triu c trang sc 7 hnh rng bng vng v ngc. o bo mu
thm thu rng cun. Xim rng 5 mng. ai trang sc bng vng
chm rng. M thng triu l m xun thu, trang sc bng vng v ngc
chu. o, xim, b t u nn bng vng, thu rng 5 mng.

o i triu ca Hong thi t Nguyn Cnh Tng (sau l vua ng Khnh)

Trang phc ca hong t:

M i triu ca hong t l m bnh thin trang sc vng v ngc chu.
Bo thu con mng mu thm, c trn. Xim thu rng 4 mng, ai
trang sc rng 4 mng bng vng. M o thng triu nh hong thi t
nhng b t thu rng 4 mng.

Trang phc ca cng cha:

M tht phng (7 con phng), o sa si dt hoa trn v phng
nht bnh. Xim bng t mu trng dt hoa trn. Trm hoa cp tc bng
vng.
V sau, o cho dt chim loan, chim phng; ai vng; qun chu mu
trng dt hoa trn, chim phng.

Trang phc hong tn v cng t:

i triu, i m bnh nh, trang sc bng vng, ngc chu. Bo thu

mng sc thm, xim thu rng 4 mng. ai trang sc rng 4 mng
bng vng. Thng triu i m xun thu, trang sc bng vng v ngc
chu, o giao lnh c trng ty dng. B t thu rng 4 mng.
n i vua Minh Mng (1820-1840), c mt s qui nh b sung v
trang phc cc loi m o nh sau:
Phm phc ca hong t cc cng d l Nam Giao i m min trc
sau u 9 di, nh 2 hoa vng, 4 giao long, 4 dy kim tuyn. o mu xanh
thu rng vai, ni lng, la, chim tr, ci be, ci chn hai tay u mi
th 8 ci, c o mu xanh thu cy rau to, go trng, ci ph, ci pht.
Ming che u gi mu nht cng c trang tr, trang sc, ai ln
c gn ngc, i mi, bt vng. Cc th hi, tt nh triu phc.
M bnh thin ca cc hong t phi i tn gi l m bnh nh.

Hia ca vua / Hi ca vua v hong hu

Vua Duy Tn mc triu phc

Vua Bo i mc triu phc

- Cc quan chnh, tng t phm c i m ci pha trc 1 bng hoa

vng, pha sau 1 bng hoa bc. Hai cnh m u bc bc. V ai, chnh
tng t phm c trang sc ng m vng v bc, chnh tng ng phm
c trang sc bc v ng, chnh tng lc phm, chnh tng tht phm
c trang sc bng sng tru trng, khm mai ba ba.
- Cc quan vn v xung vo lm chp s n t Giao: chnh nh phm
tr ln: m min trc sau u 6 di, m trang sc khc chm bng vng,
2 con giao long bng vng o xanh thu go trng vai, lng, hnh
rau to v chn hai tay mi th 3 ci. Xim nht, thu hnh ph, hnh
pht. ai sc nht, 6 mnh dt vung, khm i mi, qun ng m
vng.

- M min ca tng nh phm, chnh tam phm ban vn trc sau u 4

di, o xanh thu go trng vai, lng, 2 tay. Xim mu nht.
- Trang phc ca cng cha trng: m o c dng 7 con phng
bng vng v c trang sc thm nhiu th qu him sang trng nh
chui ngc chu, pha l, ai trang sc bng vng, mt knh o, xim, tt,
hi thu chim phng
- Trang phc ca cc cng cha cng c dng m 7 con phng v
c trang tr, trang sc p.
Minh Mng nm th 19 qui nh:
Vn v t tam phm tr ln c th mc o bng nhiu cht liu v mu
sc, ha tit khc nhau, duy khng c dng sc vng v hnh rng 5
mng.
o bo ca tam phm tr ln trc gi l o bo t linh, nay gi l mng
bo; o cht tay ca quan th v gi l mng lan.
Cc quan ng s, ph ng s i m bng sa en c 2 ci sng
bc gi l m gii tri.
Phm phc ca n b u theo th bc ca chng, cc sc , ta u
c dng. Mnh ph ca quan tam phm tr ln c trang sc vng,
bc. M o ca cha m quan chc u cn c th bc ca ngi con m
tt xung 1 bc. Phm phc ca con quan vn quan v trn nht phm n
chnh, tng tam phm, ty theo cp bc c i m ng pha, xun thu,
nho cn, t ti u mc o giao lnh cc mu lam, lc, bic, en, tuyt
khng c b t. Trong i vua Minh Mng, cho php trang phc cc
quan t nht phm n tam phm c dng cc mu c ng, thin
thanh, quan lc, lam thm, ngc lam, g vang

Quan v thi Nguyn

1. L phc ca vua (o pha trc, m, hia v mt s b phn ph)

2. L phc ca vua (o pha sau) 3. L phc ca quan bi t

Trang phc nhn s c khoa mc.

i Minh Mng, tin s nht gip, nht danh c ng m o lc
phm. nh anh, tam anh, nh gip, tam gip i m vn t
ti, o giao lnh. V sau li cho nht gip, nht danh mang m sa

cn c 2 hoa bc, o bng on sa nn mu lam, mu lc, b t nn

thu my, ai bc ng
C nhn c ban m vn t ti, pha trc, pha sau m nh mt bng
hoa bc. o giao lnh bng sa lt la trng, xim, vng cn, hia, tt y .
Gim sinh c i m vn t ti bng sa c 1 hoa bc, o giao lnh sa
nam lt la trng, xim la xanh
Hc sinh tn tht c i m t phng bnh nh, o giao lnh bng sa
hoa lam thm, lt la trng, xim bng tru
n i vua Thiu Tr (1841-1847), nm 1845 nh vua qui nh v trang
phc i triu v thng triu cho cc quan vn, quan v c bn vn da
theo l c, nhng cng c mt s chi tit thm bt i lc nh sau:
Phm phc i triu, phm phc thng triu cp cho cc quan vn t
lc phm tr ln; cc quan v v tng ng t tam phm tr ln gm
m, bo, xim, ai lng, tt, hia.
i vi cc bc km hn, ch cp phm phc thng triu gm m, y,
xim, ai lng, tt, hia.
M cc quan vn t nht phm n tht phm thin v dng trn (vin
phc u), m cc quan v thin v dng vung (phng phc u).
o bo ca cc cp u rng, c bit c hai cnh cng (gi l cnh
diu) nh vo hai bn pha sau lng o. Mu sc bo v xim thay i ty
theo cp bc. ai lng bng tre bc vi (xch v on) u ging nhau,
nhng ty theo cp bc m trang sc khc nhau. Hia, tt ty nghi x l.
C th k ra mt s chi tit v trang phc ca cc quan nh sau:
Chnh nht phm: c i m i triu c ming trang tr (trn l bc
sn, di l kim ngch tng) bng vng, c khc hnh con rng (giao
hnh). Pha trc m, nh 1 bng hoa bng vng v 2 con giao (rn rng)
bng vng, pha sau li c 2 bng hoa bng vng na. Hai cnh chun
c nm vng, trn c hnh kim giao v nhng ht ngc trai. C hai
ng ch vng chy quanh vnh m.
o bo bng nhiu mu c ng, thu hnh t linh (long ly qui phng)

bng ch ng sc xen ln nhng si kim tuyn.

Xim c may bng t tm, mu , cng c thu bng ch ng sc
xen si kim tuyn. Pha di hai bn xim ca quan vn thu con tin hc,
ca quan v thu k ln trong hnh trn.
M thng triu ca chnh nht phm vn l m vn cng, b t thu con
tin hc. V v: m h u, b t k ln.
Tng nht phm: cng c i m i triu nhng ming trang tr lm
thp hn m ca chnh nht phm v c chm hoa. Trn cnh chun
khng c dng vng. Nhng b phn cn li, ging nh m quan
chnh nht phm.
Bo bng nhiu bt ti, mu thin thanh, c thu t linh bng ch ng
sc xen si kim tuyn.
Xim nh ca chnh nht phm.
ai c nh bn phi, bn tri tt c l 13 ming ng pha vng (t
kim). 5 ming pha sau bt bc v x c.
Thng triu, vn m vn cng, b t con tin hc; v m h u, b t
k ln.
Chnh nh phm: i m i triu nh trn, c gn mt hoa bng vng
v hai con giao bng vng. Sau m c 2 hoa bng vng. Quanh m chy
hai ng ch vng. Bo bng nhiu bt ti mu ng tm (cam bch)
c thu t linh bng ch ng sc pha si kim tuyn.
Xim cng nh ca chnh nht phm, nhng quan v, phn di hai
bn phi tri thu hai con bch trch.

1. o thng cc tay (pha trc) 2. o thng cc tay (pha sau) 3. Phm phc quan vn (pha trc) 4.
Phm phc quan vn (pha sau) 5. Phm phc quan v (pha trc) 6. Phm phc quan v (pha sau)

1,2. M quan vn nht phm di trong l i triu (pha trc v pha sau) 3,4. M quan vn nht phm
i trong l thng triu (pha trc v nhn nghing) 5,6. M quan v nht phm i trong l i triu
(pha trc v pha sau) 7,8. M quan v nht phm i trong l thng triu (pha trc v nhn nghing)

Thng triu, vn m vn cng, b t con tin hc; v m h u, b t

con k ln.
Tng nh phm: m, o, xim ging nh ca chnh nh phm, nhng bo
mu quan lc, cnh chun m khng trang tr kim giao. ai th pha trc
c trang tr 2 ming vung, bn phi, bn tri c 2 ming ng pha vng;
14 ming khc bng bc bc x c.
Thng triu, vn m vn cng, b t con tin hc; v m h u, b t
con k ln.
Chnh tam phm: m i triu cng c hai hoa vng, hai kim giao bng
vng. Hai cnh chun c nm vng, hai si ch vng vin quanh m.
Bo v xim u c mng thu nh ca cp nh phm, nhng bo mu
xanh m (bu lam), xim mu (xch).
ai nh 18 ming bc bc x c.
Thng triu, vn m vn cng, b t cm k (mt loi chim tr lng vng
p); v m h u, b t s t.
Tng tam phm: M, bo, xim nh ca chnh tam phm nhng m
khng c trang tr kim giao, o bo mu ngc lam (xanh ngc), cc
ming nh trn ai mang nhiu chm trng bng sng.
Thng triu, vn m vn cng, b t cm k; v m h u, b t s
t.
Chnh t phm, tng t phm: m pha trn c mt ming trang tr v
hai con giao u bng bc, pha sau v trc hai ci hoa bng vng, hai
cnh chun nm vng, vin quanh m trang tr hai si ch bc. Bo bng
nhiu mu quan lc c thu hnh con giao bng ch ng sc c ln si
kim tuyn. Xim bng la mu xanh m (bu lam) c thu ch ng sc
xen ln si kim tuyn.
Thng triu, vn m ng pha, b t khng tc (con cng); v m
xun thu, b t con h.
Y bng nhiu (sa on) mu xanh (lam) hay en ty v may kiu c
cho.
Chnh ng phm, tng ng phm: m i triu, ging nh ca t phm

nhng ch c trang sc bng bc. Bo bng nhiu mu xanh m (bu

lam) c thu hoa bng ch ng sc xen ln si kim tuyn. Xim bng la
mu quan lc c thu ch ng sc xen ln si kim tuyn. ai pha trc,
bn tri, bn phi nh tt c 9 ming nm bc v ng xen k nhau, pha
sau 3 ming nm ng. Tt c u c bc sng.
Thng triu, vn m ng pha; b t vn nhn; v m xun thu, b t
con bo vn.
Chnh lc phm, tng lc phm: m i triu, pha trc v sau hai
hoa bng bc, hai cnh nm bc, ca cnh cng bng bc, c hai si
bc qun quanh m. Bo bng nhiu mu ngc lam. Xim bng la mu
quan lc. ai gia c mt ming nm bc v 9 ming khc nm ng,
tt c u c bc sng.
Thng triu, vn m ng pha, b t bch nhn; v m xun thu, b t
con gu.
Chnh tht phm: m c trc v sau 2 hoa bc, ng vin ca hai
cnh trn. Ming nh gia ai c bc l sng en ( gic) v nm
bc, cn li nh trang phc lc phm.
Thng triu, vn m vn t ti, b t l t (con c); v m xun thu, b
t con bu (cp nh).

B t phm phc quan vn

1. Quan nht, nh phm hnh con tin hc 2. Quan tam phm hnh con cm k 3. Quan t phm hnh con
khng tc 4. Quan ng phm hnh con vn nhn 5. Quan lc phm hnh con bch nhn 6. Quan tht phm
hnh con l t 7. Quan bt phm hnh con k xch 8. Quan cu phm hnh con liu thun

Tng tht phm: m thng triu, vn t ti, pha trc c 1 hoa bc v 2

con giao bng bc, pha sau 1 hoa bc.
Y lm bng nhiu mu xanh, mu lc, mu lam hay mu en ty v may
c cho. Xim cng lm bng nhiu mu xanh, mu lc ty nhng hai
np khng c thu hoa.
B t l t (con c) cho quan vn v con bu (cp nh) cho quan v.
Chnh bt phm, tng bt phm: m thng triu, vn t ti, pha trc
v sau nh hoa bng bc, cn li ging nh trang phc tng tht phm,
nhng b t thu k xch cho quan vn v hi m cho quan v.

B t phm phc quan v

1. Quan nht phm hnh con k ln 2. Quan nh phm hnh con bch trch 3. Quan tam phm hnh con s
t 3. Quan t phm hnh con h 4. Quan ng phm hnh con vn bu 5. Quan lc phm hnh con hng 6.
Quan tht phm hnh con bu 7. Quan bt phm hnh con hi m 8. Quan cu phm hnh con t ngu

Chnh cu phm, tng cu phm: m thng triu cho quan vn, vn t

ti c hoa bc trc. Quan v m xun thu, cn li ging nh trang phc
bt phm, b t thu chim liu thun (chim ct) cho quan vn v t ngu
(con t gic) cho quan v.
Gim st ( ng s): m i triu ca ng s, ph ng s, ca
chng n, ca ng s c gi l tri quan. M tri quan pha trc c
2 sng v hai con giao bng vng hoc bc, cn li cc th khc ging
nh phm phc ca cc quan vn ty theo cp bc.

1. M quan St 2,3. M quan v (pha trc v nhn nghing) 4, 5. M quan vn t phm (pha trc
v pha sau) 6,7. M quan vn tht phm (pha trc v pha sau)

Trang phc nhn s c khoa mc:

- nht gip tin s cp nht danh (tng ng trng nguyn
trc kia): m cnh chun bng sa en, hai cnh vin bc, pha trc gn
mt hoa bng vng, pha sau mt hoa bng bc. o bo mu lc bng
on, hoa to. B t nn thu bch nhn. ai mu thm trang sc 10
mnh hnh vung bc vng, bc bc, bc ng, khm i mi, sng en.
Xim bng sa mu lam, dt hoa. Hia, tt y .
- nht gip tin s cp nh danh (tng ng bng nhn),
nht gip tin s, tam danh (tng ng thm hoa): m cnh chun
bng sa en, hai cnh chun vin bc, pha trc gn 1 hoa bng bc m
vng, pha sau mt hoa bng bc. o bo mu lc dt hoa. B t thu
bch nhn. Xim bng sa mu lam. ai, mt trc 8 ming bc bc, cn

cc ming khc cng nh nht gip nht danh.

- nh gip tin s xut thn (hong gip): m cnh chun sa en, nh
hoa bng bc pha trc, pha sau, cnh chun vin bc, cc th khc nh
nht gip, tam danh.
- tam gip ng tin s xut thn (tin s): m cnh chun sa en, pha
trc v sau u gn mt bng hoa bng bc, hai cnh chun khng vin
g. B t nn thu con c. ai: 3 ming mt dt sng en bc bc, 7
ming bc ng cn cc th khc nh nh gip.
- Ph bng khng cho m o. n nm 1900, khoa Tn Su, mi ban
m o nh m o c nhn.
nh kiu m v c (c nhn v) kiu trn sc en, mt trc nh hoa
bc v mt hnh qu bu bng bc, o m bng vi tru mu lam hoa
to. B t trn, trc sau thu hai ch v c.
n thi T c, nht gip, nht danh li c coi nh tng t
phm, nh danh nh chnh ng phm, tam danh nh tng ng phm;
nh gip c coi nh chnh lc phm ban m o.
Nhn chung, v qun phc thi Nguyn, c th nu:
- Trang phc tin s v: m h u. o chin 5 thn bng gm, tay chn,
vt o x gia, bn trong vt o c tm che, chn i giy da cao c, tht
lng buc mi bung gn pha trc.
- Trang phc c nhn v: m trn c vnh, c mi, trn chm c nm. o
chin 5 thn, tay chn, vt o x gia, bn trong c tm che, chn i giy
da cao, tht lng buc mi bung gn pha trc.
- Trang phc cp i: m trn c vnh. o di t thn, c ng, c ha
tit np vin quanh c v vai, ngc, mp t, gu o, tay chn. Tht lng vi
buc mi bung gn pha trc. Gia thn o trc c nh mt ming
trn thu ch phn bit c i, o binh khc nhau. Qun ta.
- Trang phc lnh kinh : m trn c vnh, mi, trn nh m gn ng. o
t thn, tay di, c ng, 2 b vai, 2 v i c ming gip che. Tht lng
vi buc mi bung gn pha trc, gia thn o c nh mt ming trn
thu ch phn bit c i, o binh khc nhau. Bp chn qun x cp.

Qun ta.
- Trang phc lnh k thut: nn du, chp nn nh ng, bn trong qun
khn bung di pha sau. o di t thn c ng, tay chn, c np
quanh c, vai, ngc, mp t, gu. Tht lng vi buc mi bung gn pha
trc, gia thn o c nh mt ming trn thu ch. Bp chn qun x
cp. Qun ta.
- Trang phc lnh thng t (k binh): m trn c vnh, mi, nh m c
nm. o t thn c ng, tay chn, hai b vai v hai v i c ming gip
che. Tht lng vi buc mi bung gn xung pha trc, gia thn o c
nh mt ming trn thu ch. Bp chn qun x cp. Qun ta.
- Trang phc lnh thng t (cung n): nn du. o di t thn c ng,
tay chn, c np trang tr quanh c, ngc, b vai, mp t, gu o. Tht
lng vi buc mi bung gn pha trc. Gia thn o c nh mt ming
trn thu ch. Bp chn qun x cp.
- Trang phc b binh: nn u, trong qun khn bung di pha sau. o
di t thn c ng, tay chn (c loi b binh mc thm o di ngoi cc
tay) c trang tr np quanh c, vai, ngc, mp t, gu o. Tht lng vi
buc mi bung gn xung pha trc, gia thn o c nh mt ming
trn thu ch. Chn trn.
- Trang phc lnh tin phong: nh b binh, ch khc ch trong ming trn
trc ngc.
- Trang phc m binh: nn du, trn c ng. o ngn bn trong, o di t
thn c ng cc tay mc ngoi, tht lng vi bung gn pha trc, gia
thn o trc c ming trn thu ch. Chn trn.
- Trang phc lnh gi thnh: qun khn. o nm thn ngn, tht lng vi.
Qun ngn, chn trn
Theo m t ca Tin m Nguyn Tng Phng ( Lc kho binh ch
Vit Nam qua cc thi i) th di thi Minh Mng v v phc cc hng
lnh, cc i, chnh ph qun c u mc o chn bng n hay bng d
mu hay thin thanh. C o v bp tay o c vin kim tuyn, d xanh
hay thin thanh. Ngc o c thu hoa cc, hoa mu n hay m my,
v.v, v thu ch phn bit c i v cc o binh tng tnh.

u i nn trn sn c chp gi l nn du, chn qun x cp,

nhng chnh ph qun c dng giy chin bng da.

Tin s, c nhn vn / Tin s, c nhn v

Lnh khing cng v lnh hu quan

T lnh binh (tam phm) tr ln c mc o chin 5 thn bng gm,

i m h u.
Trn y l nhng hnh thi ch yu v trang phc nhng giai on nht
nh ca triu Nguyn, cng nh cc triu i trc , cc qui nh cn i
su n cc chc sc, cc nhn vt chi tit nhiu hn na. Tuy nhin, ngay
trong thi Nguyn, nhiu qui nh cng khng thc thi c. Mt khc do
nhiu nguyn nhn ch quan, khch quan, li c nhiu hin tng trang
phc mi xut hin.
Trn thc t, c nhng hnh nh nh ca vua Khi nh: o di n u
gi, c ng cao. o m gia nhng b ly ngi bng mt tht lng to
bn v mt di vi vt cho thn ngi. o thu rng, my, sng nc. C
tay chn li bng ming p nh mng st o s mi. Hai vai eo ng.
u i nn chp nh nhiu vng ngc. Chn i giy da en bng, ng
chn c b li nh kiu i ght nhng ght li thu rng. Trn nn,
trn o, trn tht lng u c nh rt nhiu chu bu. Ngc eo th bi,
khnh bn cnh cc loi m ay to nh. C ci m ay eo xung tn
i. eo kim Ty nhng v kim li chm cc hnh hoa l phng
ng Mi ngn tay eo y nhn vng. Vua Khi nh cn rt thch
nh phn, bi mi son, k lng my
Hoc v cui triu Nguyn, c hnh thc vn khn c bit trong cung:
tc r ng ngi gia (v sau cng c trng hp r lch), ton b tc
c bc kn trong mt khn di ri qun vng quanh u. Sau dng
mt khn (thng l mu lam, hn hu c mu vng) di hng chc mt,
kh rng 30cm c gp np chm ra ngoi to thnh ch nhn trn u
ngi gia. Tip tc ln lt qun nhiu vng vi bn rng 6cm, s vng
cng nhiu, b dy cng ln c th t 6 - 7 vng cho n 20 - 30 vng,
trng nh mt vnh ho quang bao ly khun mt ngi i. Kiu i
khn ny v sau c ph bin ra ngoi nhn dn cho ti nay, gi l kiu
khn Nam Phng hong hu, dng trong cc dp l nghi trang trng.

Vua Khi nh

Thi gim v cc m thi Nguyn

Cc con ca mt cng cha triu Nguyn

Hoc v trang phc ca binh lnh th v trong triu, thng mc o thn

di m gia, ci khuy. Loi quan cp bc trn, o c may bng vi
tt, c ha tit hay trn. o c np khc mu quanh vai, mp t, ca tay.
Lnh hu cc quan mc o bn thn di n u gi ci cc gia, c np
ca tay o, gu o, hai bn t t ngc n sut chiu di thn o, tht

lng vi buc ngoi o di. Mc qun ta, di chn b x cp, hoc

khng. Chn i dp da tru hoc i t. u i nn chp sn , khn
theo phm trt.

Lnh k m

Ngoi ra cn c:
- Lnh kh xanh l hng lnh t cc a phng canh gc, v khi
cn c iu i n p nhn dn. Gi l lnh kh xanh, v trc qun
nhng ngi lnh ny c mt ming vi xanh t tht lng bung xung nh
ci kh. Ming vi ny nm di t o. o thn ngn, m gia, c ng
cao khong 3cm, tay o hp. Tht lng da to bn, kha bng ng. Qun
kiu qun ta, pha di b trong x cp vin vi khc mu (c trng hp
khng qun x cp) o qun u mu vng c a. u i nn a, loi
nn an bng ct tre, dt nh ci mt con quang du, ng knh khong
25cm. Pha trn, gia c gn chm bng ng hnh mi gio nh. Pha
trong nn c ming vi che gy v hai bn tai. Khi i nn, phi c quai
vi nu cht di cm. Lnh kh xanh c ton i chn t, c ton i dp
da tru hai quai cho, mt quai qung.
- Lnh kh l hng lnh chin u chuyn nghip. Trang phc cng nh
lnh kh xanh, duy ch khc ch mu ming vi kh l mu .
- Lnh kh vng mang kh vi mu vng. y l lnh phc v trong hong

cung.
- Lnh l l hng lnh chuyn phc v hu h quan li trong cc ph, huyn.
Mc o cnh bn trong, bn ngoi o di n u gi, m gia, c np
khc mu hai bn t trc ngc v tay o; tht lng vi, hai u tht
lng bung pha trc. Mc qun trng xn cao. u vn qun di khn
gi tc, i nn chp nh ra ngoi. Chn thng i t.
- Lnh c l lc lng b sung cho qun i thuc a, u qun khn vi
mu xanh, ngoi i nn du, chp nhn. o ngn, c cao, m gia, khuy
vi tt. Qun ta, pha di b x cp.
Cn c mt s loi lnh khc nh lnh k m, lnh kn, lnh thy, lnh kh lc,
lnh gin, lnh tp vi cc kiu qun phc tng t.

Lnh bn x Bc K

Giai on ny, lnh ngi Vit tham gia qun i Php c trang phc
theo kiu cch qun i vin chinh Php qui nh.

TRANG PHC NHN DN

i vi dn chng, nm tr v th 5 (1806), vua Gia Long qui nh cho cc
hng th dn dng phong cn (mt loi khn cht u) mu en, khng
c trang sc g, o c cho mu en, hi, tt u mu en.
Nm 1838, vua Minh Mng ra ch d: y t trong cc nh quyn qu ni
vng ph hay quan li u khng c mc sang, ch c mc nh
dn chng.
Nhng ngi lm ca nhc, cho ht, cho php i m trang tr hnh giao
long v hoa, o bo dng mu hoc cc mu sc s, ha tit my,
giao long, duy khng c trang sc m rng v o bo vng.
Nu xy ra sai tri th ngi vi phm cng nh cc quan cai qun a
phng, tng l, s ti, nh ch u b nghim pht bng nhiu hnh
thc (nh nh hng trm roi, bi chc, ng gng bu diu, v.v).
c bit, k t Minh Mng nm th 8 (1827) cho n Minh Mng nm
th 18 (1837), trong vng 10 nm, vua Minh Mng 4 ln ra ch d bt
nhn dn min Bc phi thay i trang phc theo kiu ca nhn dn t
Qung Bnh tr vo Nam, vi l do: nh nc ta, ci t hp lm mt, vn
ha cng nhau nn phi thng nht n mc nu ngha vng theo vn
ha, vng theo php vua. Li d lc th cng rn: Nu khng chu thay
i, khi pht gic ra s khp vo ti tri qui ch, lc th n ha thit tha
xung li d ny, lc th rt thng cm vi tnh trng dn gian ngho giu
khng u tt nn rng hn cho ngy thng Thm ch sn sng
nghim tr nha li vin dch no nhn vic ny hng hch, gy phin h t
hi i vi dn Lc th kch ng: Ngi min Bc con trai ng kh,
n b th trn mc o giao lnh, di mc vy (so vi min Nam o
qun chnh t) p xu chng r rt d thy ? Nhng sau 10 nm,
kt qu vn khng t c nh mong mun, nh vua quyt nh sang
nm mi (1838), nu vn cn theo thi c khng i, tc th tr ti nng.
i ph li, nhn dn min Bc vn c ra, vi cu ca dao chm bim
bt tun thng lnh:

Thng tm c chiu vua ra

Cm qun khng y ngi ta hi hng

Khng i th ch khng ng
i th phi lt qun chng sao ang
C qun ra qun bn hng
Khng qun ra ng u lng xem quan.
Tuy nhin, phi ni rng triu Nguyn, tri di nhng nm tr v ca
mnh, vua Minh Mng l ngi quan tm nhiu nht i vi vn trang
phc. Nhng bn d v vn ny, di c, ngn c, ni ring c, ghp
chung vi cc vn khc c, c ban hnh n 34 ln c nm ti 5
ln, v cng c ln (1825) chp thun cho bn tu ca mt n v Gia
nh xin ci y phc theo nh tc nh Hn.

Ph n Si Gn

TRANG PHC N B (BC, TRUNG, NAM)

Trang phc ngy thng:

Di triu Nguyn - Php thuc, trong lao ng, cc b cc c min Bc

v Bc Trung B thng mc o cnh ngn bng vi gin nu, c trn,

vin nh, t m, a s khng ci cc trc ngc. Bn trong l tm ym
mu vng t tm hay bng vi mu hoa hin hoc nu non. Ym l mt
ming vi vung t cho trn ngc ngi mc. mt gc (trn) khot
hnh trn lm c ym (loi ym ny c tn l ym c xy), hoc khot hnh
ch V (gi l ym c x hay ym con nhn). Thng l x nng nhng
cng c loi x su xung pha di. gc nhn c ym c x (y ch
V c ba ng khu ni nh hnh chn chim c tc dng trang tr, ng
thi gi cho c ym lu b rch. Hai di hai gc bn cnh sn buc ra
sau lng. C loi ym, hai di ny l hai ming vi hnh tam gic di vt
cho ngang sau lng ri li buc ra pha trc. Hnh thc loi ym ny
kn c ngc, bng v mt phn lng, do ngi ph n c th khng
mc o ngoi, tay trn. Vy (c ni Bc Trung B gi l mm)
thng mc ngn n ng chn. Khi lm rung, xn vy cao ln trn u
gi ri buc tm gu vy trc v sau vo nhau. H thng qun tht lng
bng vi mu ( nhiu vng gi l bao rut tng), mt hoc hai vng
ngoi cp vy. Hoc khi cng mt lc h dng hai tht lng khc mu
nhau. Khi lm vic, u tht lng git gn ln cp vy cho vng. Ma
rt, ph n nng thn thng mc thm tm o cnh hoc mc mt kiu
o cc tay bng vi th, buc mt si dy quanh bng cho gn gng. o
ti lm bng l c kh l trang phc chng ma, chng rt; mt s a
phng, cn dng chng nng, nng.

Ph n lao ng i nn, mc o ti / Ph n lao ng (min Bc)

Ph n mc o bng ngn

o di, c loi o t thn, hai vt pha trc u nhau, th bung xung,

khng ci khuy. Hoc buc hai vt y vo nhau gi l o buc vt. Hoc
buc qut hai vt y ra sau lng cho gn. Trng hp mc o bung vt,
buc vt ngi ph n bao gi cng mc ym c xy cho kn o.
Ngoi ra cn c loi o nm thn (vt ngoi, cn gi l vt c, rng gp
i vt trong, cn gi l vt con, nm bn phi). Thng ch ci mt hai
cc bn sn ri dng tht lng tht ngang bng gi khng cho vt o tr
xung. Tht lng mu buc mi, hai u bung pha trc. Khi cn gn
gng th xn ng tay ln cao, git c my vt v u tht lng bn cnh
sn.
Ngi no cng u nui tc di v vn khn. Khn vn tc l mt ming
vi di khong 80cm, rng chng 15cm-20cm, mu en, nu hoc tm tam
giang. vn tc c trn v cht, ngi ta phi n thm vo tc mt
ci n tc (bng vi nhi bng), trng hnh nh con rn (di khong
50cm). pha u n tc c thm mt si dy nh di hn thn n. Khi
vn khn, trc ht r ng ngi (gia), dn tc sang c bn phi (hoc
bn tri, ty theo s thun tay ca mi ngi). t n tc vo gia m
tc lm ct, dng si y cun nhiu vng ra ngoi tc cho cht. Ly khn
vn bc tc li, cm mt chic anh ghim (hoc dng dy buc vng)
u khn gi cho khn khi tut. Dng tay ln ln vn, vut xui cho trn
u v cht n ht chiu di ca khn. t vnh khn t trc ra sau u
mt vng, phn cn li lun xung di on u khn, vt ln ngang u
sang bn tri. C li vt phn cn li ln trn u khn ri ko cho qua
u vt xung vnh khn pha bn kia. Nu l b tc di th ui tc bao
gi cng di hn chiu di ca khn, s r xung cnh tai tri ngi ph
n, gi l tc ui g. Tc ui g l mt hnh thc trang im c a
chung thi :

Mt thng tc b ui g
Hai thng n ni mn m c duyn

Ph n mc o di t thn bung vt / Ph n trong trang phc lao ng

Nhng ngi tc khng di v tha phi dng mt m tc gi m thm

vo cho vnh khn dy, c on tc ui g ong a duyn ng. Cc
b c gi, nu b rng tc th dng mt di vi xon li, qun quanh u
lm khn.
V ma rt, ph n min Bc v Bc Trung B cn i trn u mt
chic khn vung mu thm (thng gi l khn vung hoc khn thm).
l mt ming vi vung mi cnh t 70cm n 80cm. Khi cht, gp
cho khn li thnh hnh tam gic, t ln u, (c th ch t ngang trn
nh u), hai gc khn buc vo di cm, tai c trm kn. Cng c
kiu t mp khn xung gn trn, ko hai bn khn v hai pha cho thnh
mt hnh m qu gia ri buc hai u khn xung di cm hoc qut
u khn buc ra sau gy, gi l cht khn m qu. Trng hp ny mp
khn vung trm st vnh khn vn trong lm ni hnh trn ln ca vnh

khn. Nhiu c gi, trong ma nng to, dng li i khn ny nhng

trm thp mp khn vung xung n lng my, qut cho hai ui khn
che kn mi v ming, buc ra sau gy, ch cn h hai con mt, nhm
che nng cho khi rm ln da.
Cc loi nn thng thy: nn l gi, l c (loi l gi, bn chc, di
nng dm ma, lu b hng), nn nh thn (mt trn bng, thnh nn thp,
gia lng c ci khua), nn v ba (trng ging v qu ba ct ngang,
cn gi l nn mc ng, cng c khua nh nn nh thn), nn lng cho
(nng hn nn v ba), nn chn tng (rt su, hnh chn voi).
Ph n lao ng min Nam v Nam Trung B a mc mu en. o
cnh ci cc gia, khng c ti. Vt o sau di trm mng. o ngn ch
mc trong nh. i ch, i cy mc o di nm thn ci cc. Ngi ngho
mc o di bng vi, cng c khi o rch, ch em dng vi thay vo,
thng l vi khc mu, gi l o v qung. Mc qun, khng mc vy.
Tc chi ngc ln (khng c ng ngi) v bi gn sau gy. Ph n
min Nam dng khn vi mu sng hoc k gp dc li, vt ln u
trnh nng l ch yu. Tri lnh, ph n Nam Trung B qung khn vung
rng.

1. Nn ba tm 2. Nn k binh 3. Nn thy tu 4. Nn lng cho 5. Nn chn tng 6. Nn ngh 7. Nn qu

ba 8. Nn min Trung 9. Nn lnh kinh 10. Nn thng 11. Nn gia 12. Nn sn

Trong khi ph n min Nam a dng mu en, th ph n min Bc thi

a chung mu nu sng. Mu sc v kiu o ph hp vi iu kin
lao ng, thi tit tng min, nhng d l trang phc ngy thng, cc
kiu qun o vn c cc b cc c quan tm sa i ngy mt gn
gng, a nhn hn.

Trang phc hi h, l tt. Trang phc thnh th:

Ngy hi, ngy tt, ch em bit may mc cc kiu trang phc truyn

thng, kho lo s dng nhiu mu sc t nhin gn gi vi cuc sng,

biu l r mt xu hng thm m.
B o m ba trong nhng ngy xun try hi ni nh lng l trang phc
in hnh ca nhng c gi Kinh Bc: o di ba chic, ngoi cng l chic
o nm thn bng the mu thm hoc nu hoc mu tam giang, hai chic
trong mu m g, cnh sen, hoc vng chanh v h thy. C o trn, vt
thng, tay b, c tay x mt on ngn bn tay x qua c d dng.
Khi mc nhng chic o di, cc c gi thng ch ci cc cnh sn,
cn on t nch ln n c th lt cho l ba mu o ra ngoi. Bn
trong l chic o cnh trng khng ci cc c, tn mu ym hoa hin hoc
thm. C ym c hai di bi cho (v trng ging chic bi cho) buc
sau gy l ra pha ngoi nhng lp o. Bng con mt thm m kho
chn mu sc, cch n mc bung, tht t nh, cc c gi lm cho b
trang phc ca mnh tuy nhiu mu, lm sc, hp dn m vn gi c v
nn n, kn o, hi ha.
Tm vy li trai by bc bng lnh hay si en di chm gt, cp vy
bao gi cng may rng bn, khong t 8cm n 10cm, c bit dng mu
sng nh xanh, vng chanh hay hng iu. Mu en ca tm vy lm nn
cho nhng di tht lng bng vi si hoc la t tm mu m g, hng
o, hoa l tht so le buc mi, bung r du dng.
Li vn khn nhiu tm tam giang hoc nhung en, vi ng ngi gia,
lm cho khun mt trn hoc tri xoan cng oan trang, duyn dng, bn
cnh li bung r mn tc ui g.

Ph n min Bc trong trang phc l hi

i u l chic nn quai thao (cn gi l nn thng hay nn ba tm).

Nn hnh trn bng l gi, khu dy mc, mt trn bng, xung quanh c
thnh dy khong 10cm-12cm. Mt di, gia c gn mt hnh ng trn
bng tre an lm ch da i cho cn gi l khua nn. Quanh chm nn
c nhng vng tre chut nh, khu bng ch t, an cho si rt cng phu,
li c trang tr nhng hnh bm hay nhng bng hoa bng ch nhiu
mu. Quai nn lm bng dy thao en (do gi l nn quai thao), gm t
mt n ba dy chp li bung vng xung n tht lng (c khi quai nn
l mt di vi di). Hai u quai nn mi bn c nm, by n mi nhm
tua nh, di khong 25cm - 80cm kt li, bung xung u vai ngi i.
Khi i nn, cc b cc c phi dng ngn tay gi ly quai nn trc
bng cho nn khi ngt ngng. Khi e thn li che nghing nn lm
duyn. Nn khng i th qung quai nn ngang vai, eo nn bn cnh
sn, hay t vnh nn ln vai, tay vn phi gi cho khi ri. C lc ngm
khun mt mnh, sa li vnh khn mt cch kn o trong chic gng
[58]
nh c gn gia khua nn . i hi, i l, ngi ph n mc o
m ba, m by, vy di tha tht khng th thiu chic nn thng quai
thao i u. Ngy thng, nn loi ny cng c dng ph bin, nhng
khng c quai thao, v thnh nn ch cao khong 7cm-8cm. Cng vi b

o, nn p, cc b cc c cn eo bn mnh mt b x tch bng bc, c

ng ng vi cng bng bc v con dao nh, chui bng sng, va l
trang sc ng thi cng b cau, tm tru. Cn c c ci ngoy tai, ci
dp, vi ba cha kha, mt hp nh bng bc hnh qu o ng thuc
lo. Chn i i dp cong cong (bng da tru) hay i guc cong bng g
sn en, quai tt bng da hay my (mt quai ngang hay hai quai). Loi hai
quai, u quai t hai thnh guc pha sau t vo mt l su trn mt u
guc. Khi i guc, ngn chn ci v ngn cnh cp vo .
thnh th min Bc, nhng ph n t phi lao ng vt v thng mc
vy di en chm gt, o cnh ngn bng vi trng hay la t tm. Ym
mu trng, hoc hoa hin hay vng t tm. Tht lng bng la mu. Khi c
khch n nh hoc c cng vic ra ng ph, bao gi cng mc thm
o di. Ma nng mc o di t thn hai vt trc bung th t nhin
hoc buc vt pha trc hoc pha sau. Ma rt mc hai hoc ba chic
o di cng mt lc gi l o m ba. Vn khn nhiu, tc ui g. u
i nn ba tm. Chn i dp cong. Ngoi ra cn c o kp (o c mt ln
lt bng vi khc mu), o mn (kiu o kp nhng gia c thm mt
ln dng bng vi th), o bng ngn, o bng di chn qun c, mt
sng, mt na hoc ht lu

Ph n min Bc i nn thng quai thao

B x tch

Hoa v khuyn tai

Ngy tt, ngy hi, cc b cc c mc bn trong l chic o di mu

(xanh, hng hoc hoa hin) bng la Ty H, ci khuy cnh. Bn ngoi l
chic o di the thm La C lm du mu o bn trong, to nn mt s hi
ha tht c o. Mc vy hay qun lnh Bi. Tht lng mu quan lc hay
tm tam giang buc mi ra ngoi vt o trc. Chn i giy vn hi. C
eo chui ht vng, cng giu c cng qun nhiu vng. C tay eo vng
vng, vng ngc thch hoc xuyn vng. Xuyn l mt loi vng mnh dt,
hai u khom m vo mnh xuyn, c th ni rng ra lng tay vo ri
tht hp cho va c tay. Xuyn mt nhn gi l xuyn trn. Xuyn c chm
tr gi l xuyn chm. C ngi giu lm xuyn to bn ti 4cm, cn
thng l 7- 8mm chiu ngang. Rng en ht huyn, n tru mi cng
[59]
l mt tiu chun v ci p ca ngi con gi .

Cc c gi mc o di nm thn

Con gi nh quan (H Ni)

Ph n min Trung, mc o di nm thn, kn c. Ngi nhiu tui hay

mc o mu m, cc c gi mc mu nh xanh da tri hoc trng Mu
tm c dng nhiu Hu. i khi mc o m ba nhng khc min Bc
l ci cc kn, c o trong cao hn c o ngoi cht t, l ba mu khc
nhau. T o khp kn nhng mp t cng vn l ba mu. Thng mc
qun trng cht ba (ngha l hai bn mp cp qun c may ba ln gp,
mi ln khong 1cm, khi i li qun s xe rng ra cho p), hn hu
mi mc qun en. Cc b tc di, chi ngc ln (gi l chi lng),
ri bi gn sau gy. Tr tui th tc di, cp li pha sau hoc tc
ngang vai.

1. Vn hi 2. Bt gt 3. Chn hoa 4. Hi vua 5. Hi hong hu 6. Hi hong t 7. Hi th quan 8. Giy

khuy 9. Giy da lng 10. Giy rm 11. Giy mm nhi 12. Giy guc 13. Giy ng 14. Dp mt quai ngang
15. Dp quai dc 16. Dp quai ngang 17. Dp cong 18. Guc 19. Guc Si Gn 20. Guc cong

V i ca ph n mt s tnh gip ranh gia min Bc v min

Trung c loi nn thng. Gi l nn thng v nn ny c sn xut ra
t lng Vit Yn Thng (huyn c Th, tnh H Tnh), sau ph bin i
nhiu ni. Cu to ca nn thng nh nn ba tm ca min Bc, nhng
ng knh nn thng rng nht cng ch 70cm, thnh nn cao khong
8cm v c bit trong nhng dp l tt, hi h phn quai nn c lm kh
cu k. Quai nn gm nhiu si la , phn trn c tt li vi nhau v
c ni vo hai bn nn bng hai th bc chm tr cng cc vng
khuyn mc nh trang tr p. Phn di cng ca quai c nhng tua

la di khong 50cm. Tt c b quai nn ny di n 1,3m, n bung

xung gn n chn ngi i, trng rt duyn dng.

Mt vi ph n Hu

Ph n min Nam, cc c gi mc o b ba trng. C vic, mc o di

ph ln chic qun lnh en. Cc b nh giu mc nhiu o di, o trong
cng di hn c, nhng chic o ngoi gu ngn dn ln mt cht khoe
mu sc khc nhau. Tc chi ngc ln ri bi gn sau u, ci trm vng
hoc ci hai ci lc cong hai bn gi bi tc cho khi tut. Chui
ht vng qun nhiu vng quanh c, nhng c on li th nhiu vng tr
xung ngc. Ngoi ra cn eo dy chuyn nch, mt loi dy chuyn bng
[60]
vng vng qua c, eo cho xung nch. Chn i i guc ng g .
C ngi i vn hi, dp da Thng hay mang d, cn d c chm
tr hoc khm bc, x c. u i nn c, cng l loi nn nh bng,
ng knh hp nhng thnh nn li kh cao. Ring quai nn bng la
hoc bng nhng si t ng sc chp li, t hai bn hai di c buc
chung li on gia ngc ngi i ri th xung n gu o di. on
cui ca quai nn l cc tua ngn di ty (t 30cm-50cm). Khi i cc

loi nn ny (nn thng quai thao, nn thng, nn c), cc b cc ch phi

dng tay gi phn quai nn cho n khi trng trnh.
Vo nhng nm u th k XX, trang phc nng thn ba min vn gi
c theo li c truyn, ring trang phc ca ph n thnh th c nhiu
thay i. Cc b, cc c thng mc o di. C o trn ng, cao
khong 1cm. T vai n c tay o nh dn, ca ng tay o m mt on
(di chng 3cm), sau khi mc, ci kn bng cc bm cho c tay o kht vo
c tay. Gu o di cch t t 10 n 20cm (o ca ph n Si Gn
thng cao hn). Khi mc o, ci cc cnh, chic cc c nhiu khi
khng ci, gi l o c h (ring ph n vng Qung Tr, Tha Thin,
thnh ph Hu v min Nam th mc o ci kn c).

C gi con nh giu (Nam K) / Phu nhn v ngi hu (Nam K)

Ph n H Ni, thi k ny dn dn b mc vy. Mc qun mu en

bng vi lnh, ni, hoc sa tanh hay qun mu trng bng la, lanh, nh ph
n min Nam. Ph n min Bc thng vn khn nhung en, tc ui
g.
Hnh thc chi tc lc u ngc ln ri bi gn pha sau nh u, on
n bi gy, v sau li h thp xung na, ph bin min Trung. R
ngi gia, vn tc trn thng l ph n Qung Tr, Tha Thin, Hu.
Ph n min Nam vn bi tc cao, hoc hi thp (nhng khng tr), c

nhiu ngi cn li mt ui tc th ra t bi tc nh kiu tc ui g.

C ngi ko tc thnh hnh li trai che kn gy. Trn ci trm bng lng
nhm hoc xng, ng, i mi, vng Hng ngy tc thng c chi,
xoa bng du da bo v, nui tc cho ng , mt m. Cc c thiu
n tc di, gi lc bm pha trc, b xa ngang vai pha sau hoc
cp tc gn sau gy.

Ph n Si Gn

Ph n thnh th (Trung K)

trang sc: cc b, cc c eo chui ht bng vng, qun cao nhiu

vng quanh c, hay eo tr xung ngc, cn hay eo dy chuyn nch,
gia dy chuyn c ng tin vng.
Ph n Qung Tr, Tha Thin, Hu eo king vng (king l mt vng
trn, hnh ng, chm tr hoc trn, ng knh tit din di 1cm). C
tay eo xuyn. Nu l xuyn chm, thng eo mt chic to, xuyn trn
eo nhiu chic nh, eo c ra ngoi tay o. Ngn tay eo nhn vng trn
hay mt ngc. Chn i i hi mi cong thu ht cm hoc i guc g
sn en.
Vi chnh sch cai tr ca Php, ln sng vn ha Ty u trn vo Vit
Nam nh hng ti th hiu ca nhng ngi t sn, tiu t sn, tng
lp thanh nin thnh th trong cc phong tro Sng mi, Vui khe, Tr
trung
u nhng nm 1930, H Ni cng nh Si Gn, c mt o di tn
thi. Vn l kiu o di nm thn truyn thng nhng may cht hn, thn
trc thn sau khng ni gia na (v c loi vi kh rng may), vt
con c ct ngn ln. o di tn thi may bng nhiu cht liu vi vi
mu sc khc nhau, c coi l mt tn tin.
Trong phong tro ny, ha s Ct Tng H Ni nghin cu, gii thiu
trn bo ch ri sau tung ra kiu o L Muya (ting Php: Le mur ngha
l bc tng. Tng l tn ha s).

o di L Muya vai bng, c tay mng st (nh tay o s mi nam) hoc

tay l sen, tay chun. C o trn khot su xung ngc, vin ng ten, hoc
kiu l sen trn, l sen ci vt cho Gu o ct hnh sng ln, p vi
khc mu, hoc nh nhng ng den, ng ten dim da.
Nhiu chi tit ca chic o di L Muya vay mn loi o, vy
ca ph n chu u thi .
Bn cnh Ct Tng, ha s L Ph cng c nhng ng gp hnh
thnh kiu o di L Ph. Tuy nhin, y mi ch l nhng ci tin khim
tn nh thn o m st nhiu hn, kch di xung khng h ln, vt di,
t ln. Cng ni on vai. C o b, ma nng m ra cho mt, ma rt
gi vo cho m.
o di L Muya, cho d c nhiu kin phn i, vn c nhng
ngi ph n tn tin thnh th ba min hng ng (in hnh H Ni
c c Nguyn Th Hu; Si Gn c Hng Vn; Hi An trong hi ch
Lc Thin, mt s ch em mnh dn mc o L Muya. B Trnh Thc
Oanh, cng H Ni mc o di do ha s L Ph thit k).
Thi gian ny, phong tro un tc bng, i giy m (giy cao gt), mc
qun trng cng kh ph bin.
t nm sau, chic o di L Muya li quay tr v dng quen thuc c, c
t nhiu ci tin: c o ng cao t 1 n 2cm, tay thng, may lin vi, c
tay hp, vin nh. C kiu ca tay, gu, np ci cc u vin vi khc
mu thnh ng np rng khong 0,5cm gi l o l np. C loi gu o
v trn ln, khng gp.

C Nguyn Th Hu (H Ni), mc o L Muya

C Hng Vn (Si Gn) mc o L Muya / Hai thiu n (Hi An) mc o L Muya

Tri qua nhng cuc u tranh chung v quan im thm m bo v

ci p gin d, thanh nh, c tnh dn tc - chic o di truyn thng li
c phc hi. Ph n thnh th tiu t sn, ngi nhiu tui, mc o di
c ng cao t 1cm n 2cm, gc thng. Cc c gi thng mc o c
cao t 4cm n 7cm dng bng vi h cng, gc trn. Vt o ln, t
khp. Cc b mc qun en. Cc c thng mc qun trng. trong nh
mc o cnh trng, c o trn, c qu tim, c tha hay c vung ci cc
gia, tay di hoc ngn. Bn trong, mc o chui u khng tay gi l o
lt, hoc mc coc s (corset) gi cho ngc trn p.
Khi c khch n nh, hoc i ra ng ph, i chi, i lm, i hc, l,
tt u mc o di.
Ma h thng mc o di bng la hay vi mng, mu sng, hoa nh.
Ma rt may o di bng cc loi vi nhung, len, d, hoc mc lng hai
chic o di cho m. Cc c gi mc o di bng, hnh thc may nh o
di bnh thng, bng hai ln vi, gia l mt lt bng mng, ngoi
bng nhung, hoc sa tanh hay gm hoa. Hay l mc o di bnh thng,
ngoi mc thm o bng ngn. o bng ngn thng khng c cc m c

hai si dy vi nh khong gia hai bn mp t o, khi cn th buc li

vi nhau. Cc b cc c, ma rt cn mc thm o len trong hoc mc
ra ngoi o di. o len cc tay (c kiu nh o gi l ngn), hoc di tay
nhng thn o ch di n cp qun. Gu o thng chun. C hnh ch V,
ci cc t gu n lng chng ngc, c o ng ch ci mt hoc hai cc
t c n ngc. Hoc mc o vt m, c ng, ng sau ct cho vi,
khi mc pha di to thnh hnh sng ln. C qung khn san (chle)
rng bng len chm c hai vai hoc khn la thu, vi hoa hay bng len
mc.
Tc thng di, vn khn vnh dy bng nhung en. Khi vn khn,
khng vn trn m hi bt, qun quanh u hai vng. ui khn bn
cnh c ci bng inh ghim cho khi tut. Hoc qun tc trn, r
ng ngi gia, hoc bn cnh, mi tc chi bng hay un hnh li trai.
Pha sau gy thng ko tc tr xung c nh hnh li trai. C hnh thc
tt bm (tress), bn tc hai bn thnh hai ui sam, ri vng bn n sang
bn kia nhiu ln, dng trm nh gi cho khi tut, c m tc tt tr
xung c o. C mt s ngi ct tc ngn un in (fris).
trang sc thng l king v dy chuyn c mt trn khc ch th,
hoc hai ch lng nhau, hay hnh qu tim C ngi eo c chui ht
trai hay ht ngc. eo tay, c vng ngc hay vng huyn, vng chm hoc
lp lc (plaque). Ngn tay eo nhn mt ngc, nhn ma d (mari) c
ngha l nhn ci.
Dng phn son trang im: nh m hng, t mi . Mt s ngi n
din thng nh lng my, ch li mt ng rt nh ri ly bt ch v
thm cho lng my r nt, di v cong.
Cc b i dp nhung hai quai cho, lm bng li e cao t 3cm n
5cm, hay guc g bng, sn en hoc nu. Nhng ngi cn tr v
cc n sinh thng i giy da mu trng, quai tt bng nhiu si da nh
hoc hai quai cho to, c quai hu, thp 3cm, gt vung, hoc i giy
cao gt, sng an hay guc.

C gio v n sinh (nm 1939)

Ph n tiu thng thnh th, ngoi thnh min Bc, thng mc o

cnh trng hay nu, m hoc kn t. C o trn, hay hnh qu tim, hoc c
vung, c tha o di t thn nu non buc vt, th mi pha trc. C
ngi mc kiu hai vt qut cho buc pha sau lng.

Ph n mc o di bng

o di i vai: loi o c nhng ming vi khc mu ni lng, vai v

pha trn cnh tay hoc pha di vt trc v vt sau. c bit nhng
ming i mu thng may so le nhau. u tin v o rch nn phi thay
ch rch bng mt ming vi mi v vo, do c hin tng khc mu.
Sau thnh mt, o mi may cng i vai v khng ch thay bng vi nu
m cn dng mu b tru hay mu gch non lm cho chic o thm p
(thng l cng gam mu).

Ph n thnh th mc o t thn buc vt (H Ni)

Ngi bn hng rong mc o t thn i vt (Hi Phng)

Vn khn vi hay nhung en. Cht khn vung m qu mu en. Mc

qun en bng vi lng, hoc phin, la. Tht bao lng (cn gi l rut
tng) bn trong o di v o cnh. l mt ng vi di 150cm, rng
15cm, hai u hnh cho vt, bn trong tin v giy t, tht mi bung
th pha trc. Bao lng thng l mu xanh, hoc vng chanh hay hoa l,
hng iu
im li, ta thy t chic di c ym, mn tc ui g, ci tua thao en
n nhng t o, nhng di tht lng nhiu mu ong a theo nhp i
uyn chuyn ca cc b, cc c ha quyn vi cnh sc thin nhin khm
tre, cnh trc, rng da, ging nc, mi nh, con knh - tt c tot ln
v p thanh nh, gin d ca qu hng, ca con ngi - mt tm hn
trong sng, lc quan, tr tnh nh ln iu dn ca, m nh phong dao,
tc ng
TRANG PHC N NG (BC, TRUNG, NAM)

Trang phc ngy thng:

Thi k ny, trang phc n ng trong c nc u ging nhau. Khi lao
ng, ngi n ng min Bc, min Trung thng mc qun o bng vi

[61]
ng Lm
nhum nu (hoc t nhum nu). o cnh ngn bn thn
ci cc gia hay nm thn ci cc bn, may c trn ng, vung gc.
Quanh c c lt ( pha trong o) mt ming vi trm mt phn vai, lng,
ngc gi l l sen c tc dng lm cng vai o v lu rch d ch b c
xt nhiu (do gnh, vc). Gu o, gu tay vin to hn o ph n. Hai vt
trc c hai ti.
c bit min Trung c loi o lc dng khi gi rt. Ngi ta ly c lc
an thnh mt tm hnh ch nht, gp i, gia ng gp khot thng
mt l trn lm c o. Khi mc, chui u qua c o, buc mt si dy
ngang bng, gi cho hai vt o trc v sau st vo ngi.
Qun l ta l loi qun may rng, ng thp, ng thng. Khi mc qun,
tht dy lng ra ngoi cp ri ko cp ln, hoc xon cp buc li trc
bng cho qun khi tt xung. Lc lao ng li cn qun dn ng qun ln
qu bp chn v xon gn li (gi l qun xn mng ln). Cng c th mc
qun i (qun ct) lao ng cho thun tin.
Tc n ng di nh tc n b, bi cao ln pha sau nh u.
Ngi lao ng cht khn u ru, khn l ming vi vung, mi chiu
40cm-50cm. Gp cho khn li thnh hnh tam gic, gc gia v pha
sau gy, hai gc cnh buc vi nhau pha trn trn, c tc dng gi bi
tc pha sau v tc pha trc khng xa xung mt.
Nhiu ngi ch qun trn u mt vng khn s si bng di vi di
cun xon li. i ni ting c nn G Gng c sn xut t lng G
Gng, tnh Bnh nh.
Ngi lao ng thng i chn khng. Khi c vic i u hoc bui ti
ra chn mi x i guc g mt quai ngang hay hai quai cho. Ngi
gi i guc mi cong.
min Nam, qun o nam gii ph bin l bng vi en may rng ri
theo kiu b ba: o bn thn, c ng, ci khuy gia, ng tay rng, qun
cng nh qun l ta min Bc. Ngi ng tui thch mc o trng, qun
en. Nam gii thng bt khn. Ngi gi bt khn u ru mu . Tng
lp trung nin bt khn u ru mu trng. Ngi khng bi tc th trm
khn sc xanh.

Ngi n ng qun khn lt, mng tay l lan

Cng chc mc o the nm thn / ng i khn xp

Phu xe tay (H Ni)

Ngi bn hng rong (Si Gn)

Ngi ko xe nh giu (Bc K)

Do thi tit nng bc, a s n ng khi lao ng hay ci trn nhng

vn tht dy lng vi.
thnh th, c thi gian, nhng ngi ko xe tay trong mc o cnh
trng cho lng, ngoi mc o cnh bn thn c vin np mu, rng bn
c o, c tay o, gu o, cnh t o, thng khng ci cc (loi o
ring bit ny l ca ch xe cho thu lun cng vi xe tay). V sau, c sao
mc vy. Ni chung, ngi ngho qu, o bng vi gai cc tay h nch,
thn o ngn h c lng, nhng ngy tri lnh phi qung kh ti.

Trang phc hi h, l tt. Trang phc cng chc:

Cc c, cc ng i vic (v d ra chn nh trung) thng mc o di
bng the en, mc qun ng s (ng thng, ng cao).
Ni chung, nh nho v ngi c chc v trong x hi mc o di, thng
phi i khn lt.
Qun o ngy l, ngy tt ca n ng n gin hn ca ph n. Min
Bc, min Trung thng mc qun l ta, o nm thn di qu u gi.
Ngi giu sang mc la t tm mu vng, hoc i mu ng, tht lng
nhiu tm tam giang, hng iu, hay xanh lc trong o, di tht lng
bung r mt on ngn pha trc. Nu mc o di the thm th thng
mc thm o di trng bn trong. Hn hu c khi mc o the mu nu hay
xanh lam, c o cao, ng, vung gc. o the may nm thn, khi ci cc,
vt trc ln vt nh bn trong to nn mu sm na lm thnh hai
mng m nht khc nhau. i rc, i hi, c kiu buc tht lng mu ra
ngoi o the, b git bn cnh sn. Cc loi o di bng vi qu nh
gm (c hoa vn ch th), vc, on, sa tanh, sa trn dnh cho nhng
ngi c chc tc hoc giu c. Trn T Xng (1870-1907), nh th
tro phng ni ting, qu Nam nh, phc ha thi trang qu ng thi
: thi nh phong vn / o hng Tu, khn nhiu tm, lc son xanh;
ra ph xnh xang / qun t n, bt tt t, giy Gia nh bng.

Mt v chc sc i nn chp / Mc o di gm hoa to

Khong t 1925 tr v sau, ma nc, nhiu ngi ch mc mt o di

trng, ma rt c ngi mc loi o khoc di bng d, kiu phng
Ty, gi phin m theo ting Php l ba xuy (pardessus), qun phu la
(foulard) quanh c. Ngi chc sc nng thn nh chnh tng, l
trng thng mc o the en di nhng li khoc thm o vt tng
(veston) ra ngoi. Chn thng mang vn hi (giy cao bng giy bi
cng, phn mui giy bng vi nhung hay bng vc mu en, hoc lam
khum kn cc ngn chn; phn bao hai cnh bn chn c thu hnh rng
hoc hoa l, bm nhiu mu). Cn c loi hi bng da d ni, hi bt
gt, giy h (giy bng da, c mui che phn trn cc ngn chn) ni ting
c giy Chi Long, Tn Long; ng l loi giy c cao ch yu l ca tng
lp trn.
n ng min Nam mc qun o b ba trng. Ngi nhiu tui cng
mc o di trng bn trong, o di xuyn en bn ngoi, c ng vung
gc. Chn thng mang giy da lng (mui giy bng da sn en bng),
giy guc ( bng g, mui trn bng da), giy cc (trng ging u con
cc), giy Gia nh (mui giy bng da en bng), xut x t tnh Gia nh),
guc g mt quai, v.v
Nhng ngi cn gi bi tc, trn u qun khn lt en, gi l khn

lt v cht liu thng l loi vi lt (sau thay bng loi vi mm khc

nh nhiu, l mu tm tam giang, nhng vn gi l khn lt) c th di
trn 2m, rng 80cm, gp i (c khi gp ba) theo chiu di, qun nhiu
vng trn u. Kiu cht khn thng thy min Nam: hai np khn u
trong cng xp cho ln nhau, ch nhn c tch cch xa nhng np
vng qun ln cao sau , trong khi ni khc (thng thy min Bc,
min Trung), cc np khn qun li cch u nhau t di ln trn. Cng
c kiu khn qun nhiu vng, khi gn ht li qun b ra v cao ln lm
thnh mt tng khc. Ma rt cc c i m ni, mt loi m c hai ming
vi che kn c tai cho rt.

Nhm nhc cng (Si Gn)

Nn ca n ng thi ny thng l hnh chp. Cng c nhiu ngi i

nn chm bng, khum cnh hnh qu ba ct ngang gi l nn qu ba.
Min Bc, min Trung lm bng l gi, l c, min Nam thng lm bng
l da Quai nn n gin bng vi si dy my, dy vi. Nn bng l
c d khng t tin lm, ngi ngho c i mi cho n khi rch nt
vn cha thay gi l nn m hay nn ci.
Nn giang an bng tre, giang, na, khu bng nhng si mc, lt mo
nang, dng c lu hn cc loi nn l. Khi c sn trn mt cho khi
thm nc th gi l nn sn.

Ngi sang trng mua nn da lm bng l da, rt mng, rt nh, trn

nh lp mt chp bc. Ngoi ra cn nn lng, dng lng ngng, lng qu,
ken li nhiu lp cho kn, nh c chp ng bch. Thy , thy cai, tng
l hay i. Cn nn lng c (trng) dnh cho cc quan cp cao hn. nh
c chp bc. Quai nn thng lm bng la bch.

Thanh nin mc u phc

T nm 1910, nhiu n ng (nht l thanh nin thnh th) ct tc

ngn nhng vn qun khn lt. Ra ng gp ma, dng mu trng
hay en, thng gi l cnh di (v khi ging ln, hnh b gng v vi
ging cnh con di). Ngi ngho dng o ti l.

Nhng nm 1930, phong tro ct tc ngn, r ngi lch cng rm r.

Nhng ngi ng tui mc o di, i khn xp, hnh thc vn nh khn
qun nhng c lm sn, khi cn ch chp ln u nh i m, rt tin
li, khng mt th gi qun nhiu vng nh trc. Khn xp min Bc
vn cn hnh ch nhn trc trn. min Trung li sng to ra hnh li
trai.
Ngi i lm (vin chc) ngoi cc trang phc dn tc, o the khn xp,
cn mc qun o u. Nu mc ng b cng mu th gi l com-l
(complet): qun Ty, o s mi, o gi l, o vt tng, tht cravt. Nu khng
mc ng b (mc o mt mu, qun mt mu khc) thng gi l mi
xe dng (demi saison ngha en l na ma). Ngoi ra cn cc loi o
va-ri, blu-dng, i giy Ty bng da en. Ma nng cn i giy hai mu
cu lo (deux couleurs), i m ct (casque) trng M ct lm bng
li e hay bng dt, ngoi bc vi ri qut ha cht trng (blanc de zinc). M
ct trng c nhiu loi vi nhng kiu hnh v tn gi khc nhau nh m
Xanhgapo (qu m trn chia lm su mi, vnh rng), m mi ca r (qu
m bu dc, vnh trc trn, vnh sau rng, gn nh hnh vung ngut
gc), m la phng (qu m dt, nh khng c chp, quai gia vt qua nh
m), m ma t rt x (qu m dt, vnh m dy, vi lp my ch cho hnh
qu trm) Ma rt i m pht (feutre) lm bng d, m ct kt
(casquette) bng d, vi
Nam K, mt s ngi lm trong b my cai tr ca thc dn Php
nh x trng, chnh tng, quan huyn, quan ph c eo vng quanh
tht lng hay eo cho trc ngc mt di vi (hay la) ba mu xanh,
trng, (mu c tam ti nc Php) phn bit vi ngi dn bnh
thng
TRANG PHC TR EM
Thng thng ngi m c thai vi ba thng ngh n vic may mc
cho a con b bng ca mnh, d cha bit n l con trai hay con gi, d
gia nh c ca n ca hoc cn n nn, thiu i. a tr l nim vui
ca ngi m, ca gia nh. Do , khi a tr ra i, ngoi t lt, thng
c ngay nhng chic o, chic m xinh xn i ch

Thi k ny, tr s sinh c m thp, thng lm bng cc loi vi nh,

mm, p, khu thnh hnh trn ng b ngang khong 3-4cm, i vo u
a tr bo v thp. V sau, c cc loi ym di hnh trn, hnh bu
dc
Tr ba bn tui, con trai mc o cnh ngn buc dy bn cnh (thay cc).
Qun lin ym, c ym c hai di nh buc ra sau gy, cn hai di bn
cnh buc ra sau lng. Thng l qun khot ng. Con gi mc vy lin
ym cng c di buc nh qun con trai. Loi vy, qun lin ym c tc
dng che bng, che ngc, khi tri nng khng cn mc o na.
Tc con trai thng hai bn hai mng tc (gi l tri o), mt mng
di hn gia nh u chi ra sau (gi l chm hoa roi). Tc con gi
mt mng ch thp (gi l ct trc), mt mng pha sau u di
n gy (gi l ct sau).
Tr em c eo cc vng tay, vng chn, vng c, khnh bng bc, c
gn qu nhc, khnh thng khc ch mnh hay bn ch trng sinh
bn mnh; vng c c th eo thm mng h va trang sc va c
ngha gi va, k c cho tr.
Ln by, ln tm tui, em gi mc ym, o cnh ngn, ngoi mc o
di bn thn mu nu hay en. Tht lng bung di pha trc. Mc vy
hoc qun thm. u vn khn, tuy tc khng c bao nhiu, cht khn
vung. Ma rt mc thm chic o bng loi vi th m ngc, khng dng
cc m c dy nh buc hai vt vo vi nhau khi cn thit. Chn i dp da
hay guc g. eo khuyn (mm) bc.
Em trai thng mc o cnh v qun trng. i u cng mc o di the
thm hoc vi trng. Ct tc ngn, cng c khi i khn xp. i guc g,
hoc i chn t. C em i giy Gia nh. tui ny, nhiu em vn cn
tc tri o hoc ct, thng l con nh ngho.

Tr em mc trang phc ph bin trc Cch mng Thng 8

Hai em gi mc o di, vn khn

Con nh giu thnh th, n mc o di trng bng la hay gm, sa tanh

cc mu, ci cc cnh sn. Qun trng. i guc g quai ngang hay giy
cm. Tc ct sau di, buc li cho gn hoc ct theo kiu tc Nht
Bn, pha trc ct ngang bng, hai bn v sau gy di hn gia nhng
cng ct ngang bng; hoc dng lc bm gi ngc ln hay buc mt
di khn mng quanh u cho tc khi xa xung mt. trang sc c
hoa tai m, king vng, vng tay hoc lp lc (plaque) vng. Cc em trai
cng mc nh nng thn nhng dng cht liu vi qu hn. Rt t em mc
theo kiu trang phc tr em chu u.

Tr em mc trang phc trong ngy l

Trang phc tr em, k t khi cc em i hc, ph thuc vo tnh hnh kinh

t gia nh. Qua trang phc cc em, ngi ta thy c hon cnh gia
nh, b m cc em. Ni cch khc, trong x hi c, tnh cht giai cp
c s phi by trn bnh din trang phc ca c tr em. D cha m thng
con my i na, nhng v ngho, t khi c th cho con em n mc xnh
xang c.

Tr em cc kiu tc

Nhn chung, thi gian ny d tr em tng lp giu hay ngho, qun o

v cch n mc ca cc em khng ph hp vi la tui m ging y ht
trang phc ngi ln, do trng cc em cn ci, gi i trc tui rt
nhiu. Mt khc, do iu kin kinh t gia nh hn ch, trong khi cc em li
mau ln, gia nh phi may qun o rng, di hn bnh thng phng
ln, nn li to ra mt hin tng gy ci lm cho nhiu em khi b mc
qun o mi, cm thy khng thch th g. Cha ni ti c nhng loi trang
phc khng cn thit i vi cc em nh ym, khn: cc em gi cha n
tui trng thnh, c th cha pht trin y , ngi ln vn cho cc
em dng, gy nn s lng ph v ch.
Ngoi ra, cch may qun khot ng cc em d i tin, tiu tin,
khng bo m c v sinh cho cc em, nht l i vi cc em hay ngi
l la, nghch bn, v v mt m quan, cng khng hay lm.

Sau Cch mng Thng Tm

Lch s t nc c nhng thay i ln lao: Cch mng Thng Tm
(1945) thnh cng ri sau l cuc khng chin trng k chng Php
v chng M. Tng khi ngha v Ngy Tuyn ngn c lp 2-9-1945 c
ngha ca mt cuc i i to ln, tc ng mnh m v su sc n np
sng, np ngh ca tng ngi dn.
Thi gian t ngy 19-8-1945 n ngy 19-12-1946 khng di lm,
nhng nhng hot ng cch mng ca c mt dn tc va ginh c
c lp, t do, din ra si ni t nng thn n thnh th, t min xui ln
min ni, trong Nam, ngoi Bc, gi tr, gi trai mi tng lp to nn
mt cuc sng mi v cng phong ph. Cuc sng mi i hi c nhng
con ngi mi bt u lm ch cuc i mnh.
Trong nhn dn, ngi gi nh tr li. H mc nhng b qun o mi i
hp, i mt tinh. Lp tr cm thy ln ln, gh vai m ng cng tc
cch mng. Nhiu ngi ct o the, khn ng, mc o cnh hoc s mi,
gn gng hn. Ph n nh giu bt dim da, i theo ch em lao ng lm
vic cng ch. Cng nhn hng hi i u trong mi lnh vc. c bit,
la tui thiu nin, nhi ng, din ra mt cuc sng si ng, nht l
thnh th, cc em mc ng phc, tp trung hi hp, i tri, ca ht bc
u lm xa nha ci ranh gii gia con ng ch, con ch sen, con ng
c, con anh th ca nhng ngy trc.

Ch qu vi cc loi trang phc (tranh dn gian H Ni)

TRANG PHC N B
Trong nhng nm khng chin chng Php, trang phc ca ph n nng
thn c nhiu thay i ph hp vi cuc sng va lao ng sn xut,
va chin u. Ch em mc gn gng: o cnh nu, c trn hay c qu
tim, trong mc o lt khng tay, qun en bng vi phin hay lng. Vn khn
v cht khn vung m qu. Nhng ngi thot ly lm cn b mc s mi
hoc o kiu i cn, tay thng, c hnh cnh nhn, o thng may bng
vi mu xanh ha bnh hay ka-ki mu xi-mng, mu be hng, cht khn, bi
tc hoc cp tc i dp cao su en. Thi gian ny, vng t do, hu
nh vng bng nhng chic o di mu sc ca n thanh nin. Nhng cc
b, cc c vn mc o di t thn, nm thn i mt tinh, i l, i hp
min Trung v min Nam, ph n vn gi c nn np n mc
truyn thng. vng Php tm chim cng khng c g thay i c bit
lm trong tng lp ph n lao ng, tiu thng v mt s ph n tiu t
sn.
Ha bnh lp li, min Bc c hon ton gii phng. Tip nhn dn
ta li phi tin hnh cuc khng chin chng M, cu nc.
Na nc pha Nam b tm chim. Nhng ngi ph n min Nam
gp phn ng k trong cuc u tranh anh dng vi danh ngha l i

[62]
qun tc di ni ting. Qun o b ba, khn rn
trn u hay vt vai,
i qun ny lm cho gic M nhiu phen iu ng. Khng th khng
nhc n nhng i dp cao su truyn thng v sau l chic m tai bo
in hnh, nh du nt c th v trang phc ca nhng chin s gi v trai
chng M, cu nc, min Nam trong thi k ny.
Min Bc va chin u va xy dng ch ngha x hi. Ph n thnh
th, nng thn u tch cc tham gia hot ng x hi. ph hp vi
cuc sng mi, ph n thnh th li dn dn thay i cch n mc t xnh
xang n gn gng khe khon.

Ph n nng thn min Bc

1,2. Ph n ngoi thnh 3,4. Ph n nng thn khi lao ng ma ng

Ngi nhiu tui thng mc o cnh ngn hoc o kiu b ba, may st
eo, t rng, thn di, ng gu cong hnh vnh lc. Ca tay rng. C
o hnh qu tim hoc c tha, c vung, o may bng cc loi vi mng
nh phin nn, la, pa p lin Cn b, nhn vin c quan, x nghip
thng mc o s mi kiu Hng Kng, c b, tay thng. Hu ht n thanh
nin mc o s mi chit eo hay kiu Hng Kng. Tay o di, ca tay c
mng st to hoc nh, hoc tay lng 3/4, hay o cc tay, vai bng. Cc
kiu c o: mt ve, hai ve, (trn, nhn, vung), l sen nm, l sen ng, l
sen vung, v.v o may bng nhiu loi vi v nhiu mu sc, im hoa
hoc k , k sc.
Qun mu en c dng ph bin trong mi tng lp, thng c
may bng la cho, la trn, la hoa hay sa tanh, lanh, php, v.v
Ma rt, cc b, cc c thng mc o bng Tu: c o ng cao 5cm
(nh c o di), vai tra, ca tay rng. o tht eo, t rng, chn mng, ci
khuy, khuy thng bng vi tt hnh chic l hay hnh bm, thng cng
mu vi vi o. Kiu o bng ny mc gn v p. Cn o kp l loi o
may bng hai ln vi dy, mt ngoi l nhung, hoc sa tanh hoa hay
trn, trong lt la hoc ta tng cc mu, cng may nh hnh thc o
bng Tu nhng gia khng c bng (o kp thng mc vo ma thu).

Thiu n v thanh nin mc o vt Hng Kng c li hay may thng, bng

vi ka ki dy. C hai ve nhn hay trn hoc l sen ng. Mt hng cc ci
gia hay ci lch bn ngc. C hai ti, ca ti nm ngang hay cho. Tay
thng, gu tay gp vo trong hay lt ra ngoi. o len cc loi: di tay hoc
khng tay. o m, ci cc, hay o chui u, thn o di n cp qun,
mc ra ngoi o s mi hay trong o vt. C qung khn san, khn la,
khn hoa hoc khn len

Ph n vn khn (Bc K)

Thiu n vn khn (Trung K)

Ph n hong tc vn khn vnh dy (Hu)

Ph n H Ni vn khn vnh dy

Ngi ng tui thng qun tc trn, bi tc hoc un tc. Tr tui, n

thanh nin, cp tc, tt tc ui sam, ct tc ngn n ngang vai hoc un
tc. i guc g hay guc nha bng, hoc cao gt t 5cm-7cm-9cm
lng mng, c mt quai ngang hay hai quai cho. Ngi cao thng i
dp l bng nha nhiu kiu v mu khc nhau.
Chic o cnh ca ch em nng thn min Bc t nm 1954 c
ci tin nhiu: thn o may st eo hn, vt o ln vng. Ngoi mu nu,
cn dng mu xanh ha bnh, trng, hng bng nhiu loi vi khc nhau.
Hnh .nh nhng c dn qun o cnh nu non, cht khn vung m qu,
chic tht lng da to bn tht ngang ngi, vai eo sng l mt hnh nh
p mi ca ngi ph n Vit Nam, vi nhng nt nn n, kn o m
khe mnh, kin cng trong t th sn xut v sn sng chin u.
N cng nhn mc b qun o bo h lao ng mu tm than hay o s
mi trng, qun tm than lin ym. Tc cp gn ln cao, ct ngn hay un.
i m li trai hay trm bao tc bng vi hoc buc cho trn u chic
khn nhiu mu. Chn i giy ba ta, giy vi thp c, hay dp cao su en

hoc i bt o blu (blouse) di mu trng, qun vi trng, i m trn

trng khi lm vic l trang phc ca ch em ngnh y t. Ch em mu dch
vin mc o s mi c hai ve, tay thng, rng, mu xanh ha bnh hay trng.
Ngy hi, ngy tt, bn cnh nhng b trang phc khe p ca lc
lng lao ng sn xut v chin u, ngi ta li c thy nhng chic
o di i vai, tht vt, nhng di tht lng hoa l, hoa o v c bit l
nhng t o di rc r nhiu mu sc ca cc c gi tung bay, vi nhng
chic nn trng cm tay, che nghing bn mi tc, trng nh n bm
p.

Cc thiu n vi trang phc ma lnh

Thiu n H Ni

Nhng b trang phc ph n y tot ln tnh cht nh nhng, thanh lch

ca ngn xa c li. ng thi cn biu hin sc sng mnh m ca v
p truyn thng c bao i gn gi v pht trin, vt qua nhng
th thch ca thi gian, chng tr li s chi phi dn dp ca cc kiu mt
lai cng. Mt khc vn c s tip thu nhng yu t mi lnh mnh, hi ha,
gin d t khng nh s tn ti v thch nghi vi cuc sng hin i.
Cng thi k , pha Nam, ngi dn vn gi c nhng nt c
trng truyn thng ca dn tc trong trang phc, mc d cht liu vi vc
v cc kiu mt hin i ngy cng thm nhp t.
Ph n lao ng thnh th, nng thn Trung B vn thng mc o
cnh ngn hay o b ba bng nhiu loi vi vi nhiu mu khc nhau. Mc
qun mu en, ng rng, bng vi sa tanh hay nilng. Tc bi gn sau gy,

c ngi vn khn nh ph n min Bc.

Ph n ng tui tng lp trn thnh ph, th trn mc o di may st
thn, thng a mu sng nh mu hong yn, xanh da tri C ng,
cao t 3-5cm. c bit mu tm Hu ca chic o di vn c ph n
a chung. Tc vn bi nh truyn thng. Tuy nhin cng c hnh thc kh
cu k, nh kiu bi tc cao ln nh u cun li lm ra hnh m phng,
nhng di tc bn v gy c chi, xp thnh nhiu lp nh cnh
phng, gi l bi tc phng. Nhiu ngi vn vn tc trn nhng sau
khi vn tc, pha sau gy li chi mt lp tc vng xung nh hnh li trai.
N sinh mc o di trng, qun trng. Tc cp tr sau lng hay ct ngn
n ngang vai (tc th), vi chic nn che nng ng thi cng l vt trang
sc. Chic nn trng v mng, lng vo gia hai lp l l mt lp giy
mu tr ch (v sau c thm nhng hnh hoa, bm, phong cnh) gi l
nn bi th. Quai nn bng di la, hoc mu hng, xanh da tri hoc
hong yn c tht n nh i bm hai u mc trong vnh nn,
hoc buc nt bung hai u mm mi r xung cnh mi tc ngi i
nn.
Ph n Hu t dng trang sc, mt s ngi vn eo king vng.
Phn son ch t im nh khi cn thit lm tn v p t nhin ca khun
mt.
Nam B, ph n lao ng mi la tui nng thn thng vn i
khn rn, mc qun o b ba quen thuc mu en hoc c thm nhiu
mu khc na: trng, xanh, nu, g, hoc in hoa, bng nhiu loi vi. o
di vn c s dng.
Ngi nhiu tui thng tc di, bi gn sau gy. N thanh nin cp
tc, hoc xa tc.
thnh th, ph n nhiu tui mc o di, may st thn, vt di, mc
qun trng hoc en, tc bi gn sau gy hoc un tc. Mt s n thanh
nin tng lp trn v tiu t sn chy theo mt thi trang hin i u - M.

Mt s kiu tc

Mt s kiu chi tc ca ph n thnh th

Mt s kiu m thu ng

K t nm 1954, chic o di Vit Nam c nhiu n sinh mc n

trng vi kiu t rng, st eo, c cao c lt cng, ng tay hp.
u nhng nm 1960, nht l khi hng nilng trn ngp min Nam, thnh
hnh nht l kiu o di mng c mc ra ngoi mt loi o lt; o lt
ny c khot su, khng tay, may lin vi qun sa tanh en.
Trn L Xun, tung ra mt kiu o di khot c ngang Nhng ri
ngi ta li khot c trn, c vung, c nhn, tay o ngn hn, t rng,
di ra, thn o b st, tht eo.
Nhng nm sau, trong phong tro mi ni, chic o di li i dng: t o
[63]
rt hp, vt ngn n u gi , c cao, vai ni cho, cnh tay o ngn,
c tay rng. Do x t cao, bn trong li khng mc o cnh nn t ch x
t n cp qun thng h mt khong ln nh.
o di may bng cc loi vi ni, vi ngoi t tin vi cc mu trng,
mu sng, b qun, tm Hu Thn v vt o c khi thu hoa, thu rng,
thu phng. Nu l vi hoa th in cc c hoa to, hoa nh nhiu mu
sc s, hoc cc hnh k h ri rm.
Phong tro mc o, vy m cng song song pht trin. Thi gian u
(1954-1959) vn l cc kiu n gin nh s mi c trn, c b, ri khng
c ve c, c khot su hnh bu dc, hnh trn, kiu c ngang, c vung,
o tay ngn, tay phng, may bng vi trng, vi mu hay vi hoa.
Vy, t kiu di qu u gi, may phng v hi khum phn di (gi l
vy chung), n nhng nm 1960, li may thng, x cht t gia thn
sau, hoc may xp li, hoc may b. Mc o ngn tay hoc o khng tay,
ngang lng c di vi tht ngoi, b git bn cnh hay gia. Hoc mc
o thng, c vin, ti vin mt mu hay ni mu.
im xuyt vo cc b trang phc ny l nhng ng ren, v trn ngc,
bn vai, hay tht lng c nh bng hoa bng vi, chic n to, hoc
chic kp trang sc qu, di vi mng, di Nu mc o ngn tay hay
khng tay, ngi ta thng eo gng ngn hoc di bng ren hay xoa
thu p. C ngi qung khn mng trn vai, eo hoa tai bng vi
o dt thun chui u vi cc kiu cc tay hay khng tay, c b hay khng

c, gu o b ra ngoi vy. C c cc loi qun thun b st, ng ngn,

hoc rng di hn.
Sau nm 1968, chic vy mi ni ra i, ngn trn u gi, cng ngn
cng hp thi trang. Loi o khot c c bt i, o khng tay v ngn tay
li pht trin. o di tay ci khuy mng st cng c s dng. c bit
o s mi may rt di. C loi thn trc vt o x thnh my ng, c
thu trang tr
Qun u ng loe 30cm-40cm xut hin vi nhiu loi tht lng da cc
mu, to bn. Ngi ta dng c tht lng bng kim kh. V cho n nhng
nm v sau ny, ng loe pht trin ln ti 50cm ri 60cm, gu qun
khng vn, khng my m c t thnh nhng hnh sng ln, hoc
te tua.
o qun kiu hp pi mt thi chim lnh mt thi trang Si Gn. o
may bng vi x mng, thu ri rm, tay di hoc tay ngn. C loi o may
rt ngn, h c lng, bng, ng tay o di hoc ngn nhng rng, gu
tay o tht li cho tay o phng ln. Qun b zin b mng, bc phch, c
khi v ming da u gi, mng
Xut hin thm loi vy di n mt c chn, c hng khuy t cp vy
xung gu, ci my khuy l ty thuc ngi mc.
V u tc, t nm 1954, nhiu b thi bi tc m un qun. Tc ca
n thanh nin cng din ra kiu: ct ngn, un in, v to mt s di
tc un thnh hnh mc cu xung trc trn; hoc tc di, un ln
sng, hoc cun nhng bp (ng l) ung a quanh u.
Ri n giai on un tc, tr li r ng ngi gia v tc bung
th t nhin n ngang vai, ngang lng, gi thi bay la xa che c mt.
Hoc cun thnh nhiu cun tc nh trn u, hoc nh ri lm cho tc b
x
Giy dp cng thay i nhanh chng. Nm 1954-1959, ph n giu sang
mi c iu kin i giy da mng, mi nhn, gt cao. t nm sau, ngi
ta i giy mi cong, gt vung, thp. Nu mc o di th phi i guc g
gt cao, sn mi hay sn cc mu, hoc c v hoa l. Tip theo l nhng
i giy rt cao, rt th v nhng i guc cng tht cao, vt qu

10cm

Mt s kiu giy, dp, guc

trang sc ph bin c vng tay bng nha nhiu mu eo c tay

hay bp tay. Nhn phn nhiu u gn mt nhiu mu, c ln. Tai eo
vng to. C eo cc vng ng hoc cc chui ht to.
Knh eo mt, gng bng nha, mt knh cng ngy cng to ra vi cc
hnh trn, hnh ch nht, hnh vung, nhiu cnh, vi cc mu xanh, tm nht,
hng nu, v.v
Cc mt trang im tt nhin theo hng pht trin ca mt trang phc.
Cng v sau, mt cng nh b phn. Mi son, m hng cht. Mt k
m nt, trn mi t mu xanh, hoc nu, hoc tm, c ngi t c hai mu
hoc ba mu ni tip, cp hng lng mi gi. Lng my nh, li mt
hng ch nh ri v cho m. Mng tay, mng chn nh mu hng ri ,
thm ch mu nu, tm, xanh, nh bc
Vi cc din bin v trang phc, trang sc, trang im ca ph n nh
trn, ta thy cha bao gi th min Nam, c bit l Si Gn, li ui

bt kp mt thi trang ca x hi t bn th gii nhanh nhy n nh th.

Ci gi l vn ha thc dn mi xm nhp vo min Nam, da vo nhng
tn d ca ch ngha phong kin ra nhng quan im thm m lai
cng, vi nhng sn phm trang phc kch cm
Nhng g l vn ha truyn thng tt p b bp mo v c em ra
nh la qun chng. Trong nhng trng hp , qun chng c nhng
phn ng nht nh, ch yu l tr v truyn thng, phc hi cch n mc
c, c gi li nhng cung cch o b ba, o di dn tc. Phi nhn rng
trong m bng bong ri rm , trc mi nhn c lit ca cuc xm lc
thi trang t , chic o di Vit Nam, d bin dng chng no, vn tn
ti nh mt bng chng u tranh dai dng cho n ngy 30 thng 4 nm
1975, ngy min Nam c hon ton gii phng.
TRANG PHC N B T 1975
T ngy thng nht t nc n nay, o mc ca ph n ba min
khng cn s khc bit nhiu na. Ph n ng tui thnh th, ngy
thng mc o cnh, o b ba, o s mi Hng Kng, o s mi chit li
vi cc loi c: hnh qu tim, c tha, c vung, hnh ch V, c cnh nhn,
c hai ve C ngi mc o hai bn vt trc hay ngc thu hoa tha
hoc giua ni mt vi ha tit. Gu o, c tay, ming ti, ng vin c,
hai bn t o u giua. C hnh thc thu hoa chung quanh gu o hoc
bn gc t trc v sau. Vai o trn (ct lin vi), hoc c khi ct vai
cho (raglan). Ngy l, ngy tt, cc b mc o di, mu trang nh.
N thanh nin c nhiu kiu o: b mc nh, o chui, o m, s mi
chit li, s mi Hng Kng, vai bng, vai lin, vai tra, vai cho, c hoc
khng c cu vai, c c cu ngc hoc trang tr ng ni ngc thnh
na hnh trn, hnh vung, hnh nhn; o ngn tay hoc di tay, tay mng
st, tay lng, tay chun, tay loe, tay thng, tay chun xi mc, v.v o m t
hoc khng m t, vt cong vnh lc hoc ln hnh cung C kiu o
hai hoc mt ti ngc ni, c hoc khng c np, ming ti thng hoc
cho, c kiu ti hnh tri o. Ve c o ph n c nhiu kiu rt phong
ph: c vin, c tha, c qu tim, c vung, c ch U, c trn c np hoc
lm xi mc, c ch B, c mt ve, c hai ve trn, c hai ve nhn, c hai ve
lin, c l sen trn, c l sen nhn, l sen vung, l sen nm, c ve ng

c chn, c cng (nh c o di), c cnh nhn, c lt vung, c lt trn,

c lt nm, c cra vt, c lnh thy, c Nht Bn, c san (chle), v.v
C cc kiu o cu k nh o cnh bm, o cnh di. c im ca
o cnh bm l c trn, tay loe rng, gu l mt ng cong. Khi mc,
giang thng hai tay th trng ton b thn o nh mt na hnh trn. c
im ca o cnh di l c o hnh nhn (ch V), tay loe rng, gu hnh
nhn (ch V). Khi mc, giang thng hai tay th trng ton b thn o nh
mt hnh tam gic cn. Nhng kiu o ny c may bng cht liu mm
to nhng np r lm cho nhng ng cong ca tay, gu o c
mm mi, vi cc mu sc s, c cc hnh trang tr c o, tay, gu
gy thm n tng su sc cho ngi ta v tn kiu o.
Ma h, thng dng o bng cc loi vi nh phin nn, la, xoa hp
vi kh hu Vit Nam. Nhiu kiu o dt kim cc tay, o phng n gin
hp vi tui tr, to dng khe mnh. o di vn c mc thng xuyn
th min Nam, cn min Bc v min Trung thng mc trong
nhng ngy ci, ngy hi, ngy tt, mt s ngy ngh. Gii tr cng a
chung o di may kiu vt ngn, thu hoa hoc in nhng ha tit p t
hay ngc.
Hnh thc may o s mi ghp nhiu mu bng vi hoa hay vi trn vo
cc b phn hp l nh c o, tay, ngc, vai lm cho chic o thm
hp dn, ti tr. nc ta, thi gian ny o ghp mu cn c ngha
tit kim.
Cc b, cc c thng mc qun la hay sa tanh en. N thanh nin sau
mt thi gian di mc qun en ng hp, ri ng thng, rng, hi loe, gn
y a s mc qun u. Trong thi gian ny, c phong tro khng mc
qun trng na m mc qun u, o di, va tit kim, va tin li,
nht l trong thi tit ma ng min Bc, min Trung, mt chic qun
la trng khng chng rt.
Sinh hot trong nh, nhiu ph n c ba min mc qun o vi hoa
v gi l b (mc trong nh).
Cc kiu o ma ng pht trin rt mnh, o vt, o len di tay, ngn
tay, khng tay, o khoc kiu mng t c ai tht eo, o chui u c cao
hoc c s mi, gu chun hoc khng gu, an hoc dt, c nhiu ha

tit v mu sc, o mng t, o bay, o bludng, o lng, o vi ni lng, o

dt kim dy kiu th thao, o lin m, tht dy lng nh o trt tuyt ca
cc nc chu u, v.v Chic o bng ph bin trc kia min Bc v
Bc Trung B, nay ch nhng ngi gi mi mc.
thnh th min Bc, ph n vn khn ch cn li s t. Ngi nhiu tui
thng bi tc. Cn tr tui un tc cc kiu hay ct ta ngn, un in cho
p vo u, hoc tc di, ct ngang vai
Cc b cht khn vung vi en hay si dt, khn ni lng, n thanh nin
i m len an hnh trn ng, c ngi i m ni, m li trai bng
nhung, hoc cht khn vung mng, qun khn di nhiu mu sc hoc
qun khn di bng len mc, hai u khn c tua. t thy dng phu la nh
xa na.
Giy, guc vn c cc kiu gt nhn, gt vung, gt bng. Cht liu giy
bng da, dp bng nha nhiu mu, guc bng g sn nhiu mu hay
sn mi hoc dng bt in t, v cc hnh hoa vn trang tr trn mt
guc, thnh guc. Mt thi gian (1980-1982), thnh hnh loi guc g
gc, cao t 9-11cm, khng khot hoc khot rt t pha di, trng rt
th, to qu kh, khng cn bng, khng ph hp vi vc dng ngi ph
n Vit Nam. n nm 1983 li quay v cc loi guc c thanh mnh, nh
nhng hn.
Trong lnh vc lao ng sn xut, min Trung, vn ph bin chic o
cnh hoc o b ba. i u, mt s ph n vn mc o di. Bi tc hoc
vn tc trn. N thanh nin nng thn, nhiu ngi mc o s mi cc mu.
min Nam, vn gn b vi kiu qun o b ba, bi tc, trm khn rn
quen thuc. Nhng ngy tt, ngy hi, vn thy chic o di kiu c.
Ph n nng dn min Bc, ngi ln tui vn vn khn, mc o nu,
qun vi en khi lao ng. Tt nht, mc o cnh mu trng, xanh, hng,
g Tr tui, mc o s mi, mc qun bng la, sa tanh, php hoc ta
tng en. Cp tc gn gng. Ngy hi, ngy tt, mc s mi nhiu kiu,
nhiu mu bng vi p.
Nhn chung, c ba min thy mt s n thanh nin nng thn mc
qun u, mc o di vi nhng mu sc nn n.

Qua nhng kiu cch n mc nh trn, ta thy ang c hin tng giao
ha v trang phc ph n gia nng thn v thnh th, c bit l trang
phc khi khng lao ng. ng thi li thy trong hon cnh t nc
thng nht, ngi vo Nam, k ra Bc, do nhiu yu cu cng tc, thm
hi, bun bn, thm ch nhiu ngi chuyn c gia nh vo, ra hn,
s giao lu thun tin gia ba min to iu kin cho s giao lu
trang phc pht trin. B qun o b ba ngy nay khng ch ph bin
min Nam, mu tm Hu thy thp thong H Ni, Thnh ph H
Ch Minh, chic nn l lng Chung, tm la H Ty, th cm Lai Chu
n mi ni trn ton quc. c bit chic o di truyn thng, d di, d
ngn, t rng hay t hp, mu trng hay vng, im hoa to, nh hay in cc
hnh ngang, dc nhiu mu, bng vi thng hay la qu, ngy nay vn l
chic o di ca c ba min, bn cnh nhng tm o di nu non i vai,
bung vt hoc tht vt, bn cnh nhng t o mu tm Hu, nhng tm o
di ci khuy c truyn min Nam thng mc. Chic o di ca ph n
Vit Nam tr thnh biu tng Vit Nam i vi con mt ca nhn dn
th gii. Thy mt ngi ph n mc o di, khch quc t nhn nhn
ngay y l ngi ph n Vit Nam. Chic o di y gp phn chng
minh s thng nht gia ba min Trung Nam Bc l thnh tu ca s
sng to c o, ca s u tranh bn b gia ci hay, ci tt vi ci d,
ci xu, ci dn tc chn chnh vi ci ngoi lai kch cm.
Vit Nam cng nh cc nc trn th gii, trang phc n b bao gi
cng phong ph hn trang phc n ng. Cn c vo c im trang phc
ca ph n mt s dn tc, c th gi tn nhng ngnh dn tc y. V d
nh gi l Mng Trng v ph n ngnh Mng y mc vy trng, gi l
Mng Hoa v ph n ngnh Mng y mc vy c nhiu hoa vn. Hoc nh
gi l Dao Tin, v trn o, vy ca ph n ngnh Dao y c nhng hnh
ng tin; gi l Dao Qun Cht v ph n ngnh Dao y mc qun ng
b, v.v Nhn chung, ph n vn l nhng ngi c cng bo tn cc mu
o qun truyn thng v khng ngng pht huy lm cho chng thm
phong ph. Trong tng giai on, c nhng xu hng, th hiu lch lc
ng k, nhng ri ci gc c bn vn cn gi c.
TRANG PHC N NG

Sau Cch mng Thng Tm 1945, trang phc n ng thnh th c

u ha kh nhanh. nng thn cn phi tri qua mt qu trnh lu hn
mi c s thay i cn bn. Tri qua cuc khng chin chng Php, mi
quan h thnh th, nng thn c chan ha thc y tch cc s bin
chuyn y. Nhiu thanh nin nng thn bt u mc o s mi, qun u,
trong khi nhiu cn b xut thn thnh th c thng xuyn mc
qun o nu d thm nhp vo qun chng nng thn. Thi gian ny,
ngoi chic o chn th (qun v dn u dng) min Bc, min Trung
cn ph bin i dp cao su v chic m l (m lm bng l c).

n ng vi cc kiu trang phc (sau Cch mng Thng 8)

[64]
min Bc, t nm 1954, pht trin chic o vi ka ki i cn , bn
ti, mc ngoi (kiu o Tn Trung Sn, Trung Quc, c Vit ha).
Ma h, chic o s mi cc tay c a chung, may thng, khng b,
c hai ve. Khi mc thng b vt ra ngoi qun cho nng. C thi k
ng tay v thn o rng, sau ng tay v thn o c may hp li, mc
gn v khe. o s mi di tay, ma h c vn ng tay ln trn hay di
khuu tay. Cc c ng vn a dng b qun o cnh ta mu nu, xanh, hay
trng, v mc n nh nhng, thong mt, thoi mi. Hoc mc kiu o s
mi ba ti, c hai ve (nh kiu o ng).
Ma rt, chic o ka ki c hai ti cho, mu tm than, lm v trm ra

ngoi mt mn bng my vung rt ph bin, ph hp vi cuc sng lao

ng thi chin. Khi o bn, ch vic tho v ngoi ra git. i dp lm
bng lp v xm t (dp cao su) c dng nhiu v tin li v r tin.
Nhng nm 1954-1975, min Trung, trong vng t do, trang phc ca
nhng ngi lao ng khng c thay i g nhiu.

Ngi mc o v mn bng / Ngi i m l, mc o i cn bn ti

Trong vng tm chim, cch n mc cng t b pha tp. n ng, ngi

nhiu tui mc o di the, o sa tanh en hay mu lam, o gm hoa hay
ch th, v.v Qun trng ng s. i khn xp, i giy da lng hay giy
da en. Mt s mc u phc. Trung nin, thanh nin mc s mi, o vt
tng, tht cra-vt, qun u (thng l mu sng), i giy da, hoc sng
an, ct tc ngn, r ngi cnh, chi mt. M ct, m li trai, v.v, vn
thng thy. Trn thc t, n ng min Trung, c bit l thnh ph
Hu, ch trng n trang phc ca gii mnh nhiu hn so vi n ng
cc tng lp min Bc hay min Nam.

Cng thi gian ny, nng thn min Nam, ngoi qun o b ba, nhiu
ngi cng mc s mi. Cn trong cc thnh ph b tm chim, c bit
Si Gn, c u ha m nt: hu ht n ng u mc s mi, vt
tng, qun u bng nhiu loi vi, nhiu mu sc v kiu may. i giy Ty,
[65]
sng an, xm p , dp nha cc kiu. i m nha trng, m pht,
m li trai bng da hay vi. Mt thi trang phng Ty trn ngp vo
min Nam c thanh nin hng ng nhanh chng: o s mi chit li, cc
loi o thun, o phng, trc ngc v sau lng in hnh ngi, phong cnh
hay nhng dng ch
Theo phong tro hp pi, mt s nam thanh nin mc o bng vi x,
may gn ging kiu o cnh rng, c trn tr xung ngc, x t, gu di
qu mng, thu ngc, ca tay v gu o Tai v c eo vng ng
to. Mc qun b zin sn, bc mu, c khi v ming da u gi. i
guc g to, mui bt, gt h, cao t 5cm n 9cm, xung quanh ng inh
m bng kim loi hoc sn ha cht mu xanh, , hnh vung, trn hoc
bu dc. Tc chm vai, ru cc kiu.
T nm 1975 n nay, a s n ng mi la tui trong c nc u
mc qun u (thng gi l qun Ty). Kiu qun ny xut x t chu u,
vo nc ta t khi Php sang h.
Qun u Vit Nam cng qua nhng chng ng thay i theo tro
lu ca th gii: t ng hp 18cm n 20cm, mng v ng rng, cp
qun c nhiu ng chit. n nm 1938-1939, ng qun rng ra mt
cht, mng hp hn. Nhng nm 1950-1970, ng qun thng (ng ng)
t 20cm-22cm, mng v ng may st gn. C thi k mt s thanh nin
mc qun ng b khong 15 cm (ng tup). 1970-1980 mt s thanh nin
mc mt qun ng loe t 30cm n 70cm. n 1982, mt qun u li tr
v dng ng tup, mt s qun b ng, b mng v i bng loi vi b
hay ka ki trng hoc nhung k, qun c ti ni sau mng, ko phc m
tuya hoc nh nhiu khuy bng ng
Nhng chi tit ca qun u nh li lt vo trong hoc ra ngoi, a to, nh
cp, ti thng, ti cho, v.v u mang c hai yu t thc dng v thm
m (qun ti cho to th cho tay vo ti d dng, ng cho ca ti ph
i ng thng, ngang lm cho chic qun phong ph v ng nt).

Tht lng bng nilng hoc bng vi, da, c din tch chiu ngang t
2cm n 8cm. Kha bng kim loi nh, to, ty theo loi tht lng vi nhiu
hnh trn, vung, bu dc, ch nht, c nhng ha tit hoc hnh ch nhiu
mu xanh, , trng
Do quan nim qun soc c tnh th dc th thao, mc soc ra ng
khng c ng n, vo khi thi tit nng nc, nam gii vn t s dng.
V sau cn mc qun ng lng, gu qun ch n u gi.
V o, nam gii thng mc o s-mi may b, ve c o v mng-st to
bn. C ngi (tui tr) mc o chit li, gu o ln, vt m ly mng (o
ui tm). C loi o, khng may cu vai hoc c cu vai nhng ch c hai
np li hoc khng c li (trc y sut ngang lng u lm li). C ngi
mc o phng, o dt kim ba l, v.v phong ph v mu sc, a dng v
kiu may. C ngi mc o hoa, loi vi mng
Ma ng cng nh ngy l, ngy hi, n ng thnh th mc com l cc
mu, gn y a mu sng nh mu sa, be, ghi nht o vt tng c
thi gian ve to, ri li nh, nay li to. C loi ve ni, hoc ve lin vi kiu
ve nhn, hoc ve xch, ve n-tng. Hai vt pha trc, gc thng hoc
trn. C loi vt tng x hai ng nh gu hai bn mng. Cravt c
thi gian rt nh bng vi ni-lng. Ri li rt to bng cc loi vi hoa.
Cravt di, ngn ri li di
Ngoi ra, cn nhiu kiu o rt nh mng-t d, o mt, o bay, o bludng da, o len dt, an cc kiu, v.v nng thn, ma rt mt s
ngi vn mc o bng hoc o va-ri bng d
Mi ngi thng i dp cao su en c hai quai cho pha mi dp v
hai quai ngang ng sau, hay dp cao su ci tin cao t 3-7cm, hai
quai cho nh xng an, i xng an bng da, da hay kp, dp
nha hoc xm p cc loi, giy ty, giy ba ta, bt kt cng thng s
dng. Ngy l, ngy tt i giy ty cc kiu, cao hoc thp, gt vung,
mi vung hay nhn.
Nhn chung trang phc ca n ng trong c nc, nht l thnh th,
c may theo cc kiu trang phc chu u, xem ra cng c phn gn
gng, thun tin. Vi nhng c im kh hu, thi quen thm m, iu

kin kinh t tng vng, cc loi trang phc n ng c ci tin

nhiu cho thch hp. R rng, qua trang phc n ng, ngi ta khng cn
thy s cch bit gia cc tng lp con ngi nh trong x hi c.
TRANG PHC TR EM T 1954
T 1954, trang phc tr em c nhiu kiu mu ph hp vi tng la
tui, mt iu u vit trong lnh vc ny so vi tnh hnh x hi trc y.
D vy, nng thn, do iu kin kinh t cn eo hp, trang phc ca tr
em khng c y nh thnh th.
Tr em lt lng c nhng kiu o n gin: o ci cc gia, ci cc bn,
cho vt sau Nhng kiu o ny tr mc m bng, ngc. Thng may
rng ri bng nhng loi vi mm, mng, thong, hp v sinh.
Cc chu t 5 thng n 3 tui, ngoi o mc thm ym di trnh
t ngc, c tc dng m bng, d thay git, bn o bn trong. C cc
loi nh: ym bu dc (ng cnh ym, t thn n gu ct ln hnh
bu dc), ym hnh ln sng (thn trn hp, di rng, gu ct hnh sng
ln, trng ging chic vy nh, thng cho b gi mc), ym hnh cnh
s (hnh thc nh chic o gi l, hai mnh sau t c xung gu ct ln
trng nh cnh chim). Ngoi ra cn nhiu loi ym hnh trn, hnh vung,
v.v Tt c cc loi ym u ci cc hay buc dy sau c. Pha di
nch c hai di vi nh nh hai bn mp ym, khi mc th buc li
pha sau lng. Xung quanh c, nch, cc ng mp thng thu cc ch
mu. Vt ym trc bng, ngc thu hoa hay hnh nhng con vt nh g
thi kn, th che , chim bay, v.v c cch iu ng nghnh lm cho
chic ym thm p. la tui ny, cc chu thng mc qun ct theo
kiu qun ta, cp chun.
Cc chu mu gio nhi ng, b trai mc o s mi ngn tay hoc di
tay. Ma h, o s mi ngn tay may kiu blu-dng lin vi qun soc hay
qun u di, hoc qun ym, qun soc ring, c hai ti cho, hoc ti
vung, ti bn nguyt.
Tc ct ngn, i m li trai bng vi gm 8 mnh t hai n bn mu,
mi mnh l mt mi khu ni vi nhau. C chu i m nan nh vnh.
B gi c nhiu kiu s mi: s mi Hng Kng, ci cc hay chui u. o

[66]
cc tay vai bng, ca tay lm xi mc , tay thng di c mng st hay tay
lng 3/4. C chun, c tht n, c l sen nm, l sen ng, chun ngc. Vt
o trc c hai ti hnh tri o hay na hnh trn, v.v Thng mc o
ng b, hoc mc qun ta bng vi hoa hay mc qun u.
Cc loi o vy: o xe (o lin vy), phn trn khng c tay, t nch n
gu xe rng, gu ln cong vnh lc, cnh sn cao hn gia gu.
Khi mc, phn di vy to thnh hnh trn. Vy xe chun ngc: c hai
quai vy to bn t 4 n 5 cm hai vai nh vo thn vy, phn ngc khu
chun vi hay lm xi mc bng ch mu. T nch n gu xa rng.
Vy xp li quai to bn, hai u nh vo thn, t nch n gu xe va
phi. ngc hay sau lng m mt on nh mc d dng. Khi mc
xong th ci li hoc buc dy thnh hnh n cho kn. Vy xp li c th may
bng hai hoc ba mu vi. Mnh vy trc c mt ti gia hoc hai ti hai
bn hnh bn nguyt hay hnh qu tim, hnh lng hoa, v.v bng vi ng
mu hoc khc vi mu vy. Cc chu gi khi mc vy u mc qun lt
bn trong.
Tc thng ct ngn theo kiu Nht Bn, ct tc ngang gia trn, hai
mang tai ct thp hn v khoanh vng trn n pha sau.
Chn i giy vi hay dp da, dp nha c quai hu.

Trang phc ph bin ca tr em t 1954

Ph n, tr em H Ni trong trang phc sau Cch mng Thng Tm

Ma ng cc b trai v gi mc o khoc lin m, o len, o mng t.

Qun lin o chun gu, hoc qun u bng len hay vi dt kim.
i cc loi m len an hoc dt, m d, m mnh che tai, m mnh che
gy bng nhiu loi vi hoa ghp, m kiu phi cng, v.v
Hc sinh t 7 n 15 tui ni chung thng c sao mc vy, min l gn
gng, sch s. Nh cc n sinh mc o s mi Hng Kng chit li hoc
khng. o ngn tay hoc di tay, c mng st hay tay lng. C l sen, trn
hay nhn hoc c hai ve. Mc qun u nhiu mu cc kiu ng thng hay
hi loe, hoc qun b ba.
Tc ct ngn ngang vai hoc di cp gn pha sau, r hai bn, buc
n, tt ui sam hai bn hoc ct ta gn ngn bn tai.
Hc sinh nam ma h thng mc s mi, blu-dng cc tay hay di tay,
o s mi thng. Mc qun u, b gu o ra ngoi hoc cho gn vo trong

qun.
Ma rt, nam n u mc thm o len cc tay, di tay, hoc o khoc
ngoi bng cc loi vi dy, m.
Thi k chng M, cc em thng mc qun o mu sm v i mt loi
m an bng rm, c tc dng chng mnh bom mnh n. cng l
mt sn phm trang phc ng ghi nh. C thi gian mt s trng cho
hc sinh mc ng phc, nhng cha thc hin c rng khp v lin
tc.
V trang phc tr em, ta thy xut hin nhiu loi kiu rt l a dng,
phong ph iu ny cng c chng minh r rt trong nhng ngy
nhp trng, ngy l, ngy hi. Vi nhng b trang phc mi may, p
, cc em sinh hot rn rng, ti vui trng nh nhng a hoa, nh
nhng cnh bm ang khoe mun mu mun sc rc r khp mi min
t nc. Nhn chung trang phc ca cc em u gn gng, gin d, ph
hp vi tnh cht la tui, lm cho con ngi thm khe, p, lc quan

M rm

Vi cc b o qun ca cc em, d cha thc hin c vic ng b

ha trang phc cc cp hc, nhng khng thy c s khc bit g ng
k gia cc em, cng nh khng thy s chnh lch v kinh t gia cc

gia nh. Vn ny c ngha rt quan trng, to cho cc em mt thc

v mi quan h bnh ng t tui u th. Thm na, vi cc kiu may,
mu sc vi vc c chn lc, trang phc tr em khng ch l nhng b
qun o n gin, y cn l mt trong nhng biu hin ca i sng vn
ha, ca xu hng thm m ng n trong ch mi. Trang phc ca
cc em trc ht c s tc ng trc tip i vi cc em, n lin quan
n vic bi dng ton din con ngi ca th h tng lai chng ta.
Nu ta c gng thc hin c ch trng cho cc hc sinh v cc on
th thiu nin, nhi ng n mc ng phc th chnh vai tr trang phc li c
s ng gp tch cc trong vic trau di thc t chc k lut, thc tp
th, o c con ngi cho cc em. Do , ngi ln khng th ch ngh
n vic cc em mc lnh, mc p mt cch chung chung m khng
quan tm n nhng yu cu khc na nh vic lc no th cn cho mc
ng phc, lc no c mc t do, thng qua vic chn kiu trang phc
mang phong cch dn tc, chn mu hi ha, m bo khoa hc v sinh,
v.v C th ni: nhn vo trang phc tr em, ngi ta c th tm hiu c
nhng mt bn cht ca ch x hi.

Trang phc l ci
Nhn dn ta mi khi ni ti ngy ci vn thng cho rng: trm nm
mi c mt ln, c i ngi mi c mt ln, nhc ci xin cn t
chc sao cho tm tt, chu o, p . Mt trong nhng yu t quan
trng t c yu cu trong ngy ci, chnh l trang phc ca c
du, ch r v c nhng ngi d l ci.
Thi Hng Vng, theo truyn thuyt, m ci Sn Tinh M Nng
c bit bao nhiu snh l qu him nh vng bc, ngc ng, t, voi, chim
mung l - th chc chn c du, ch r khng th n mc xunh xong.
T trc ti nay, nhng b trang phc ci bao gi cng mi, p hn
trang phc ngy thng. Thi xa, b trang phc c du cng chnh l b
trang phc cc c mc trong nhng ngy hi c truyn dn tc, thm ch
cn c b sung thm cho p hn, mi hn, phong ph hn.
Thi Nguyn, ngy ci, cng cha i m ng phng dt bng lng
ui nga, nh 5 con phng bng vng, cu m bng vng, gia c
bng hoa Hai bn c dy tua c kt bng 120 ht trn chu v
pha l. o bo bng on bt ty mu , tay o thng thu hoa trn v
chim phng, tht ai . Xim bng on bt ty mu bch tuyt, trang tr
hnh chim phng v vin kim tuyn. Hi mu cng thu chim phng.

m ci vi cc kiu trang phc dn tc

Ph m v cng cha trong trang phc l ci

Cng cha trong trang phc c du

Nhn chung cc c du min Bc thng mc b o m ba, ngoi cng

l chic o the thm, bn trong n hin hai chic o mu hng v xanh,
hoc vng vi mu h thy. Ri n o cnh trng, cui cng l chic ym
hoa o c di bng la bch. Vy si en hoc vy lnh. Tht lng gm
hai chic bng la mu hoa o, hoa l, ngoi cng l tht lng si xe mu
en, c tua hai u. Vn khn, u khn gi chic anh ghim, c nh
con bm vng hoc bc, tc ui g. Lc a du, i ng i nn
thng quai thao. Chn i dp cong.
trang sc c khuyn, hoa tai bng vng hoc bc, cnh sn eo b
x tch, con dao, ng vi, bng bc chm tr tinh vi.
C du min Trung cng mc o m ba, trong cng l o mu hoc
hng iu, o gia bng the hay vn tha mu xanh chm, o ngoi cng
bng the hay vn tha mu en. C ngi ch mc lng hai o, trong cng
l mu hoc hng iu, ngoi l vn tha mu xanh chm to nn
mt hp quang mu tm c bit nn n. Mc qun trng, i hi thu. Tc
chi lt, bi sau gy. C eo king hoc qun chui ht vng cao ln
quanh c. C tay eo vng vng, xuyn vng C du con quan, nh giu
mc o di gm, ngoi khoc o t thn mnh ph, bng gm dt hoa,

phng, c np to trang tr hoa vn ha tit chim phng nhiu mu sc,

vin quanh c o n di ngc, tay o thng king vng c eo
pha trong c o mnh ph.
C du min Nam mc o di gm, qun lnh en, i hi thu. Tc chi
lt, bi li pha sau u, gi lc bnh li bng i mi hoc bng vng,
bc. C ngi ci trm vng, u trm c nh l xo nh ni tip vi mt
con bm vng hay bc to nn rung, tng thm phn sinh ng v
thm m. eo dy chuyn nch (x nch) bng vng, eo nhiu chui ht
vng c

C du, ch r vi hai h trong hn l Si Gn

Ch r ly cng cha c phong chc ph m y (tng tam phm v

giai), i m c cu vng, pha trc nh mt bng hoa bng vng, hai
cnh chun bng thau bc vng. o mang bo mu lc, ng tay rng nh
b t mu thu m my, chim hc, tht ai mu hng, chn i hia.
Ch r ba min cc tng lp nhn dn u thng mc o thng bng
gm hay the mu lam, qun trng ng s, bi tc, cht khn nhiu mu lam.
Chn i vn hi thu p.
Nhng nm 1920-1930, thnh th min Bc, c du mc o di ci vt,
ngoi l chic o the thm, bn trong, o mu hng hay xanh hoc ngoi

[67]
l chic o di sa tanh hng, bn trong o di la trng C . Mc
qun lnh hay sa tanh en. Chn i vn hi thu ht cm hoc i guc
cong. Vn khn nhung en, eo hoa tai bo, c eo nhiu vng chui ht
bng vng.
Ch r mc o di the thm, hoc sa tanh, hoc gm hoa bn trong
mc o di trng. Qun trng ng s, i giy Gia nh hoc giy da en.
i khn xp. Khi l t hng, l nh th th khoc o thng lam.
n giai on sau, cc c du con nh giu mc o thng bng gm
mu hoc vng c ha tit rng phng, cnh tay o di v rng.
Mc qun trng, i giy vn hi nhung mu hoc vng hay lam, c thu
rng, phng bng ht cm hay ch kim tuyn lng lnh. u i khn
vnh dy bng nhiu, mu lam hay vng qun nhiu vng quanh u. Cch
i khn nh trn thng c gi l kiu hong hu, t min Trung ph
bin ra min Bc.
C c du mc o di bng vi mnh kh hoa t hoc gm hoa, sa
tanh, hay nhung , mc qun la trng. Vn khn vnh dy, c eo
king hay dy chuyn. Tay eo xuyn, vng.
thnh th v sau cn tip thu mt s hnh thc trang im ca chu u:
c du trang im son phn, ci thm bng hoa hng trng bng voan
ngc tri, tay m b hoa lay n trng, tng trng cho s trong trng,
ng thi lm p cho b trang phc ngy ci. Mt khc cng i tay
ngng nghu. Ch r mc com l, tht cravt hay ci n c, i giy
da.
ngoi thnh, c du mc theo li c truyn o di ci cc, qun lnh
en. Ch r o the, qun trng, i khn xp.
Trong khng chin chng Php, vng t do, m ci c t chc
gin d theo i sng mi, ph hp vi hon cnh tng ni. Trang phc l
ci cng v vy m khng c g khc bit trang phc ngy thng, ch l
qun o mi may.
T nm 1954, nhiu nghi thc, trang phc l ci phc tp c lc
b, xut pht t trnh gic ng ca ngi dn min Bc mi c gii
phng, cng nh iu kin t nc cn tm thi b chia ct.

C du v cc ph du trong hn l H Ni

thnh th, c du mc o di trng hoc cc mu sng, nht, mc

qun trng, i giy cao gt, tay m hoa lay n. Tc phi d, hoc chi bng,
cp tc. Trang im m hng, mi son. Ch r mc com l, tht cravt, i
giy.
Nhng ngi l cn b, hoc nng thn: c du thng mc o s mi
trng hoc o cnh trng hay o b ba, qun en, i dp mi. Ch r mc
o s mi mi, qun u, i giy, xng an hoc dp nha. B i, vn c
th mc b qun phc, cn b th c khi mc qun o i cn, tc chi gn
gng.
min Nam, vng t do, trang phc ci cng nh thi k khng
chin chng Php.
T sau 1975, t nc thng nht, mi giao lu vn ha m rng,
c bit nhng nm 1980-1981, do nh hng cc mt trang phc u M,
mt s c du thnh th min Nam v min Bc mc o lin vy mu
trng hoc mu vng, mu xanh nht, gp np tay, ngc; vy xe rng,
di qu gt chn, c chic t tht lng n gu chia lm nhiu on vi
nhng khoanh ng ten, gi l vy ba tng hay nm tng, hoc vy di gp
nhiu ng, chit ngc, tht lng i giy cao gt trng. Tay eo
gng mng. C eo chui ht kim cng hoc gi kim cng hay xa-phia
lng lnh. Tc phi-d, ngi no tc di th lm phi-d gi, tc un thnh
chn bp di gi l bp ng-l r xung quanh u.

C du, ch r trong trang phc l ci

Mt s kiu trang phc ph bin ca c du

Mi tc pha trc ci vng hoa trng bng vi, hoc chi tc bng cao,
ci nhng vng ht c tua r xung hai bn thi dng v gia trn,
chm thm mt khn voan trng trn u, lc a u, c c du ko khn
che mt. Mt trang im phn son m nt. Nhiu ngi k mt m, mi
mt bi xanh, cp hng lng mi gi di v cong. Tay m b hoa lay-n
trng, thm mt dy hoa hng trng di gn n chn. Tt c lm cho c
du khc bit v ni bt gia cc c ph du. Ch r mc com l, mu be,
hay k ca-r hoc mu m (hoc o s mi nu tri nng nc), tht cravt im hoa nhiu mu. i giy da en. c bit c ci mt bng hoa
hng trng ti o ngc cho khc vi nhng ngi ph r.
nng thn, trang phc c du, ch r ch l kiu qun o mc ngy
thng, nhng mi v p.
Ph r, mc tng t nh ch r. Ph du mc tng t nh c du.
Gn y m ci thnh th, ph du cng ch mc o di cc mu,
qun trng, trang im p.
thm phn duyn dng, ti p, c du ci bn mi tc mt di hoa
trng, eo nhng trang sc nh dy chuyn, chui ht Trang im
nh (trnh tnh trng ha trang bin thnh mt ngi khc khng ai nhn ra

c).
Nhng ngi i d m ci n mc p, gn gng, sch s, trnh s
l lng, kch cm.
Ngy nay, cuc sng c nhiu thay i, tm hn v tnh cch con ngi
Vit Nam th hin trn nhiu mt, trong c phn trang phc khng th
tch ri mi trng, cnh tr, thin nhin Vit Nam. Trang phc l ci, d
nng thn hay thnh th, d c s bin i tt yu, vn cn gp phn to
nn mt bc tranh i sng vn ha tht c o ca con ngi Vit
Nam.
Nhng nm 1981-1982, nh c s hng dn chn lc, trang phc c
du quay v chic o di c truyn dn tc vi my kiu sau y:
Kiu o di hong hu c ng cao, tay thng, di va tm, may st
thn, mu hay nhiu mu sc khc. i khn vnh dy mu vng bng
vi kim tuyn. Ngc ci bng hoa hng trng. Mc qun trng, i giy cao
gt. T im nh trn khun mt.
Kiu o di bnh thng mu trng, hoc cc mu sng, im hoa nh,
may st thn, tay hi loe, vai rc lng, vt di ngang ng chn. Mc qun
trng, i giy cao gt. Mi tc t nhin, ci thm bng hoa trng nh,
tay m hoa lay n trng.
Trang phc l ci ngi Vit cho n nay tri qua nhiu giai on.
Nhng nt tin b trn c s truyn thng dn tc c nhn dn pht huy
lm phong ph thm. Tuy nhin, cng c nhng mt hin i theo s bin
ng ca tro lu trang phc nc ngoi, xa l, khng ph hp vi tm
vc ca ngi ph n Vit Nam; nhng hnh thc trang im dim da,
lc lng, lai cng, thiu s hi ha.
Trang phc l ci ni chung, ca c du ch r ni ring cn ty thuc
vo kh nng kinh t ca tng gia nh, da theo phong tc tp qun
tng a phng m nh liu. Chn la khng th ty tin, khng nn
quan nim rng loi vi no cng t tin th cng p, mu sc cng rc
r th cng sang trng, hp thi. Ngoi mu sc hoc cht liu vi cn
phi cn c vo tui tc, tm vc, hnh th ca tng ngi.

Trang phc l tang

n trung k thi i c mi c tp tc mai tng ngi cht. Sng
gi, thc v, cht l thot khi s au kh ca cuc i, cht l tip tc
sng th gii bn kia (hoc ln thin ng, hoc xung a ngc).
Ni chung, trong tang l ngi Vit, ci bun li xen ln mt nim an i
hoc lo lng. Nhng din bin tnh cm nh hng n ni dung v hnh
thc t chc tang l. Vi nim ngha t l ngha tn, cc hnh thc biu
hin mi quan h tnh cm, tinh thn trch nhim ca ngi sng vi
ngi cht ngy cng phong ph, a dng, lu dn tr thnh phong tc.
Tc thi Hng Vng, khi c ngi cht, ngi ta gi chy vo ci
pht ra tn hiu thng bo cho mi ngi cng bit. C th thi c
nhng nghi thc v trang phc l tang. V tc cht khn tang, theo truyn
thuyt, trong cuc khi ngha ca Hai B Trng (40 - 43 sau cng nguyn),
khi ra trn, b Trng Trc ci b khn tang ch huy chin u.
Trang phc l tang cn phn bit mi quan h thn s, rut tht, xa
[68]
gn vi ngi cht . V sau, giai cp bc lt, thng tr dng n lm
phng tin ph trng, th uy, tuyn truyn cho quan im giai cp
ng thi.
Trong x hi phong kin Vit Nam, t thi nh L, c ni ti quc
tang, vi trang phc dng vi x, gai. Vua cht, c nc phi tang. Vua
L Nhn Tng, xut pht t lng thng dn, trc ngy cht (vo nm
1127) c dn li quan, dn ch nn tang 3 thng. V vy, sau khi vua
cht, triu nh cho b o tang sm. n thi L Cao Tng (1176-1210)
bt u tang vua 3 nm. Sau , cng c i vua (L Thi Tng, L
Nhn Tng), v nhng l do khch quan no (nh cho rng tri ra tai cho
thin h, v.v), ch duy tr quc tang hn mt nm.
n ci cht ca vua L Thnh Tng (1497), cc qui nh v trang phc
quc tang mi c thc hin nghim tc. Dn gian trm h phi tc
[69]
di , mc o x trng 100 ngy. Cc quan tc di, mc o x trng
3 nm, nh c th mc o xanh. Ngoi 100 ngy, c php mc o
xanh hay o en, khng c dng cc mu hng, lc. T vua n dn ai

cng tang cha m 3 nm.

n 1601, vua L Th Tng mt, l tang li c qui nh c th hn:
Thng ph (cha Trnh) tang 100 ngy. Khi ra lm vic vng ph
th mc o trng, dy thao trng, m trng.
Cc thn vng v cc quan vn v tng qun cng tr ln m vn
thng c d chu, cc quan t ng phm tr ln khng thng xuyn
[70]
vo chu v cc quan cai tr a phng tang hai nm , mc o
trng vn gu, dy thao trng, m trng. Sau 27 ngy, khi vo chu hay khi
lm vic c th mc o en, dy thao en, m en.
Hng v, t lc phm tr xung hng vn, bt, cu phm triu yt,
tang 9 thng, mc o trng vn gu. Cc h v hiu s, n li, hoa vn (hc
[71]
sinh) tang mt nm . Khi vo chu hay ng hu mc o en, gm
v en, dy thao en, m en, khng c dng trang sc vng bc.

Con trai, gi, du, r trong trang phc l tang

V cc quan l mnh ph tang mt nm, khng l mnh ph tang

100 ngy, khng c trang sc.
Cc n quan, thuc vin v tp lu tang 5 thng, mc o trng vn
gu, sau 100 ngy, khi vo chu hay n nha mn lm vic th mc o, dy
thao, m mu en.

Cc x li, vn thuc, quan vin t tn, nha li, x trng, th t, ph o,

nhn dn lng nh vua v trong thnh tang 100 ngy. Nhn dn
cc x tang 27 ngy, u cm m nhc v mc, dng mu sc
le lot, chu ngc, vng bc.
Nhn chung, nu gp quc tang th vng, cng, khanh, s u mc mu
qu sc. Nhng ngi c tang thng mc o vi th, i u ni nn, r
tc che ming, vo ca cng mc o qu sc, o thanh ct. Ngi c tang
t mt nm tr xung, mc o trng, xa tc n khi ht tr, khng
dm i ung ru ch nh ai.
Nm 1758, vua L Hin Tng mt, triu nh li yt bng:
- Cc hong thn v trai gi h nh vua u tang theo gia l.
- Cc quan vn v c d chu tr ln, cc quan ni gim t chc
thin gim tr ln, tang ba nm, khi chu (vua) th m, o, ai, u mu
en, khi hu (cha) mc o thanh ct mu hoa qu, i m sa en, dy thao
en. Ra cng ng lm vic mc o vi en.
- Hng vn t vin ngoi lang v tri ph tr ln, hng v t lc phm tr
ln, ni gim t chc t hu im tr ln, tang mt nm. Khi vo
hu, mc o thanh ct mu hoa qu, i m sa en, dy thao en. Ra cng
ng lm vic u mc o vi en.
- V cc quan vn, quan v, ngi no l mnh ph tang mt nm,
ngi no cha l mnh ph tang 5 thng.
- Hng vn t t tha, ng tri ph tr xung, tang 9 thng. Hng v
t thuc vin c chc tr xung, ni gim t chc phng ng tr xung,
tang 9 thng. o m vo chu u dng sc en. Khi vo hu mc o
thanh ct mu hoa qu, i m sa en, dy thao en. Ra cng ng lm
vic, mc o vi en.
[72]
[73]
[74]
- Cc m chc , nho sinh trng thc , gim sinh , bin binh hp
[75]
[76]
[77]
thc , nho sinh, sinh , quan vin t tn, nhiu nam , hc sinh
sinh vin u tang 5 thng. Khi vo hu ph cha, mc o thanh ct
mu hoa qu, ngy thng u dng o vi en.

- X dn cc huyn x Thanh Hoa v nhn dn trong thnh tang 1

thng, nhn dn cc x tang 27 ngy.

Cc hng chu, cht, cht, cht tang

Phm mu sc lo lot, chu ngc vng bc u cm cho n ht hn

tang.
- Nm 1729, cha Trnh Cng mt, thn thuc nh cha tang theo
gia l. Cc quan vn v c d ban chu tr ln, ni gim chc thim
sai thi gim tr ln, tang mt nm, triu phc m ai u dng cc
mu xanh, lc, en.
- Nm 1750, b ni ca cha Trnh Doanh mt, mt s cc quan tang
5 thng hoc 3 thng. Khi vo hu mc o thanh ct mu hoa qu khng
vin c, i m sa en, dy thao en. Cc loi m lng, m ui n lc
lng trc u lm bng sa on Tu nay phi lm bng sa en Nam,
khng trang sc hoa mu le lot. Nho sinh trng thc, gim sinh tr
xung, thuc vin t li tang mt thng. Qun lnh, nhn dn tang 27
ngy.
- n i nh Nguyn, t chc quc tang c by bin qui m, linh
nh, tn km v k. Trang phc l tang ca hong gia v cc tng lp
quan, qun cng c nhiu kiu cch phc tp.
Ngoi quc tang, giai cp phong kin v nhn dn lao ng chu s chi

phi ca thc h phong kin, khi c tang u tun th nhng qui nh v

gia l.
C nm loi trang phc l tang (gi tt l tang phc): trm thi, ti thi; c
phc; i cng; tiu cng; ti ma.
1.a. Trm thi l trang phc i tang, tr cha, m 3 nm. Trm thi c
ngha l may o khng ct m dng phng php cht vi cho cc mp
vi x ra mt cch tiu ty, t au n. o trm thi di, rng, tay thng
may bng th x rt th, xu, khng vin gu, khng ci khuy m ch buc
[78]
di. lng o c may thm mt ming vi gi l ph bn . Hai vai c
[79]
hai ming gi l thch .
Con trai, mc o trm thi cn phi buc mt si dy gai ngang lng v
i mt loi m gi l m rm. M rm hnh vnh bnh xe, tt bng rm
hay l chui kh, trn c chng hai di vi x hnh ch thp, c mt quai
cng bng vi x eo di cm. Cn phi chng gy, cha cht th con
chng gy tre. Phi chn th tre mu sm en (mu tang tc). S d chn
tre v cy tre bn ma khng i mu, v nh tnh cm thng au ca
ngi con khng bao gi gim st. Gy tre trn, tng trng cho tri,
coi cha nh tri cao.
M mt th con chng gy bng g cy vng. Cy vng cn c tn l
ng tng, ng ngha l cng, rng lng m vn cng hp vi cha.
Gy vng c o phn trn trn, phn di vung. Hnh vung tng
trng cho t, coi m nh t dy.
Chng gy t ra l ngi con c hiu, v qu bun thng, khc lc
n ni m yu, khng sc i ng nh bnh thng, phi da vo cy
gy mi i ng c. Trong m tang, mi ngi con trai i mt m
rm, chng mt gy. Vng ngi no, m v gy phi c treo cnh
bn th hay t theo o quan mi ngi cng bit.
Con gi, con du tr i tang cng mc x gai nhng khng chng
gy, khng i m rm m xa tc, i m mn. Gi l m nhng ch l
ming vi x chiu ngang khong 30cm, chiu di khong hn 1m gp i
li nhng hai u vi so le, ri khu mt cnh, trm ln u thnh mt
hnh chp.

c bit, con trai, con gi v v ngi cht cn dng mt di x trng

chiu ngang khong 30cm, di hn 1m, theo chiu di gp li vi ln
hnh thnh mt chic khn c chiu ngang khong 5cm, cht quanh u,
buc mi pha sau, b thng hai u khn xung lng, gi l khn
ngang.
1.b. Ti thi l tang phc khng trng bng trm thi. Ti thi c trng hp
tang 3 nm, c trng hp tang 1 nm, 5 thng hoc 3 thng. Ti l
bng. Gu o ti thi khng x m c vin qua loa. p dng cho nhng
trng hp nh con tr m gh, m nui (cng c khi dng trm thi) 3
nm. Chng tr v, con r tr b m v 1 nm. Chu tang ng
b ni, con tang cha dng, anh em rut u tang ti thi mt nm.
Trng hp ch em du, ch em rut ly chng, anh em ch em con ch
con bc tang 9 thng. tang c ng, c b ni, ng b ngoi, anh em
ch em cng m khc cha 5 thng. Trng hp con khng vi cha
dng, chng tr v l u tang ti thi 3 thng, v.v
2. C phc cng nh ti thi nhng p dng trong nhng trng hp nh
tr bc giai, bc gi, ch, thm, c rut (cha ly chng) u mt
nm
3. i cng l tang phc dng th vi to si, cn th, trong nhng trng
hp nh c rut ly chng, anh em ch em con ch, con bc, u 9
thng
4. Tiu cng l tang phc dng th vi nh si trong nhng trng hp
nh chu tr ng bc, b bc, ng ch, b thm, b c rut (cha ly
chng), bc giai bc gi, ch thm, c h (cha ly chng) u 5 thng,
v.v
5. Ti ma l tang phc c th dng vi nh si, mn, trong nhng trng
hp nh tr ng b h, v l cha, anh em nm i u 3 thng, v.v
Ngoi ra cn nhiu qui nh v tr i vi hng con, hng chu, h
ni, h ngoi, h xa, h gn, thy dy hc, b bn rt phc tp.
i vi ngi cht cng c trang phc nh khn cht u (bc cn), khn
ph mt (khn minh mc), bao tay (cc th bch), o thm, o trng, qun
trng, tht lng, bt tt, giy o phi ct ht khuy, mc l, khng nn mc

chn, v.v
Trc kia nhng ngi tang u mc qun o tang trng, nhng v
sau, tr nhng ngi tr i tang, cn ch qun khn l chnh: nam
qun khn vi trng rng bn, n vn khn trng xon ln vi tc. Hng
cht, khn mu vng, hng cht cht khn mu . i a ma, xa thng
phi i chn t, v sau nh giu thnh th b l y m i dp tt bng
ci.
Sau ngy l tang, nhng ngi thn vn cn cht khn ngang cho ti 100
ngy (c ngi theo phong tc phng Ty, dng vi en). o qun x
gu. Sng o di hai np my ra ngoi (nh mc o tri). i m ct
hay m pht, phi qun khn trng quanh m. Hoc may mt khoanh bng
en (rng khong 4cm) c tha ra hai ui ngn v pha sau, lng vo m.
T Cch mng Thng Tm n nay, trang phc l tang n gin nhiu.
V d dng o x nhng b hai tay o i. a m, i giy dp bnh
thng. Nhiu ngi khng i m rm, khng chng gy na. Ngy
thng tr bng cch dng ming vi en rng chng 8cm my thnh
nhiu np eo quanh cnh tay. C ngi nh trc ngc mt ming vi
en nh. C gia nh, trong m tang vn mc bnh thng, ch tang
bng cch cht khn: nhng ngi thn thch nht vi ngi cht (nh v
vi chng, con vi cha, m) cht khn x bung hai di pha sau; h
hng cht khn vi trng quanh u; b bn eo bng en cnh tay hay
nh ming vi en trc ngc.
Xt v nhiu mt, tang nh vy l thun hp, va gin d, tit kim,
va khng ct t truyn thng dn tc m vn khng h c g lm gim
bt tnh cm thng tic i vi ngi qu c. iu quan trng l
thc, thi ca mi ngi trong m tang. Ngoi vic khng nn ni
chuyn n o, ci a ct nh, nhng ngi trong nh tang v c nhng
ngi n ving, i a tang khng nn n mc h hang, le lot (nh
mc o di hoa to sc s hoc eo cravt ), hoc trang im cu k,
dim da
i vi trng hp quc tang (lnh t ti cao mt), cn b, qun i,
nhn dn eo ngc ming vi nh ch nht nm (3cm x 6cm) na trn
, na di en.

Nhn li, trang phc l tang Vit Nam c t lu i. Xa nay, khi pht
tang thng dng mu trng may bng cc loi vi th, r tin nh x,
gai Khi may, khi mc, cn c tnh lm cho xu i t lng thng tic
i vi ngi qu c, chng minh bn thn ngi sng au bun n
mc khng mun hng th g l vui, sng, p Thc cht tnh cm c
th nh vy. Nhng ri cng khng t trng hp ch l cho ngi khc
khi ch ci, nu khng phi l by v thc hin nhng ring
bit (nh la di mi ngi). Nu i qu, s l nhng hin tng hnh
thc ch ngha, phn v sinh (thi xa khi a ma phi n mc xc xch,
nhu nt, i chn t, ln ng hoc chng gy i git li, ty mi quan
h mu m vi ngi cht. Sau , ngi tang cn khng chi tc,
khng tm git, khng xem ht, nghe nhc trong nhiu ngy). Quan im
t tng phong kin cng c biu hin r rng (nh quan im trng
nam khinh n trong vic tr).
Lc b nhng hnh thc tiu cc, vic tang rt c ngha trong mi
quan h gia ngi sng vi ngi cht, gia nhng ngi sng vi
nhau. V nu mi ngi c iu kin tm hiu v nhng l do sn sinh ra
nhng tc l tang, chc rng tc dng gio dc con ngi cng thm
[80]
su sc .

Trang phc tn gio

Hin nay nc ta c nhiu tn gio. C hai tn gio ln ang tn ti
vi qui m t chc cht ch, vi s lng tn kh ng. l Pht gio
v Thin Cha gio. Trong tn gio, vn trang phc cng c nhiu iu
cn gii thiu.
TRANG PHC PHT GIO
Pht gio nc ta chia lm hai tng phi: Bc tng v Nam tng.
Cc nh s Bc tng ( cc cha min Bc) mc loi vi th mu nu
(nhum bng c nu). V sau dng loi vi tt, mn hn v c th
nhum bng thuc nhum.
Ngy thng mc o cnh ngn nu, qun nu, nam cng nh n. (Gn
y s nam mc c s mi nu). Ra ng hoc khi c vic cha, mc o
di tng i rng, khng cng ngc, c trn ng, mm, ci khuy kn c,
khuy tt bng vi nu.
Lc lm l cc s bc thp mc o trng vt nu, tay rng, c cho c
np rng khong 5cm. Cc s bc cao mc o trng vt mu vng (hoi
[81]
sc) , ng tay rng. Bn ngoi cn khoc mt tm vi gi l o c sa,
mu nu hoc vng (hoi sc) ty theo cp bc. Ngoi ra cn loi o c
[82]
sa nhiu mu ghp li dng khi chy n .
o c sa l mt ming vi gn nh hnh vung, mi chiu rng khong t
2m n 3m. y khng phi l mt tm vi lin m l do nhiu ming ghp
li theo qui cch nht nh. Trong kinh Pht cn gi l y php, gm c: y
ng iu, y tht iu, y cu iu, y thp nht iu, v.v Y ng iu l do
nm mnh (iu) ghp li, y tht iu l do 7 mnh (iu) ghp li V
sau ny c trng hp dng ti y 25 iu v dng nhiu mu sc, cht
liu khc nhau ty theo iu kin cha s ti cho php. C sa mu
c gi l kim sc hng y, dng trong cng trai n

Ha thng mc o c sa, i m tht pht

Nh s trong trang phc c sa

1. Trang phc s n lc bnh thng (pha sau) 2. Trang phc s n khi lm l 3. Trang phc thu ng
ca s nam (min Bc) 4. Trang phc nh s phi Nam tng khi nh 5. Trang phc nh s phi Nam tng
khi ra ng

M t mt tm y ng iu: ty theo chiu cao ca ngi mc, y ng iu

c th di t 1,6m n 1,9m. Chiu ngang l nm ming vi - tc iu mi iu c b ngang l 40cm. Nhng nm iu khng ni lin vi
nhau m gia hai iu li c mt di vi b ngang 5cm ngn cch (gi l
cch). Trn tng iu theo chiu dc xung, cn chia ra lm hai phn
khng u nhau do ming cch ngn ra. Phn di hn gi l trng,
phn ngn gi l on. iu th nht, on trn, trng di;
iu th hai, trng li trn, on di, v.v tc l c s sp
xp so le trng v on gia cc iu. Nhn mt y (o) bao gi cc
on cng trn, cc cch (ngang) vi s lng nhiu hn pha
trn cho p mt. (Y ng iu c ba cch trn, hai cch di).
y tht iu li c b tr nht on, nh trng. (Trong iu th
nht l mt on hai trng; iu th hai, hai trng mt on,
v.v). Vin quanh y l mt np rng 10cm gi l rip. mp vi pha trn
ca bt c y no, khong 2/3 chiu ngang t tri sang phi, cng c mt
cc tt bng vi khu trn mt ming vi hnh na cnh qut (di 9cm).

Cc ny c ci vo mt khuyt (cng c khu gia ming vi hnh

hai cnh qut), on chiu dc bn tri tm o, cch mp vi trn
khong 20cm. Cch mc ny l khi nh s khoc cho o, h mt cnh
tay. Khi cc ci vo khuyt, hai hnh na cnh qut chp vo nhau, cnh
li c mt di vi trang tr na. Ming vi nh trn c cc, c khuyt
c gi l bn .
Khi chong o ny, ngi mc cn buc vo nhau hai dy vi trn hai
bn khc hnh vung t gn khong gia tm o, di mp vi trn.
Chong v buc dy xong, hai tay s thng xuyn nng hai bn tm vi,
coi nh hai ng tay o rt rng.

Trang phc ra ng:

Nh s Bc tng
Nh s Nam tng

Theo truyn thuyt trong o Pht, chic o c sa hnh thnh t nhng

ming vi l ca nhn dn t phng lng thnh gp li cho ngi tu
hnh. Khi c nhiu mnh vi ri, cc nh s thnh xin c Pht cho bit

nn may o theo kiu cch no. Nhn i qua mt cnh ng, c Pht lin
ch tay v truyn may theo hnh cc tha rung. Cng v l m tm o c
sa cn c tn gi l tm php phc in, cu mong la go nhiu, chng
sinh no m.
Loi o c sa nhiu mu (xanh, , tm, vng, nu) ghp li cng may
theo qui cch nh o c sa mt mu, ni ln ngha tm o nh cha l do
nhiu nh ng gp, mi nh mt mnh, mt mu khc nhau.
V sau, nht l thnh th, cc cha dng loi o c sa cng mt mu,
nhng vn do nhiu iu ghp li (c khi ti 25 iu).
Cc nh s Nam tng, trang phc khng may thnh qun, o nh phi
Bc tng m ch dng vi vng hoc nu qun, vt trn ngi vi cc kiu
khc nhau. C cc hnh thc sau y:
1. Y ni (cn gi l y an hi): c tc dng nh qun o lt gm hai
ming vi. Ming th nht rng 40 cm, di t 1m-1,5m vt t trc ngc
qua vai tri, qua lng, cho xung sn phi. gn hai u vi c di
nh buc li vi nhau. Ming th hai nguyn kh vi (t 70cm90cm), chiu di 1,5m, qun quanh bng, u vi git vo mp vi cho
cht (nh chic vy).
2. Y vai tri (cn gi l y ut la tng): mc y vai tri cn theo mt trnh
t nh sau: khoc tm vi ra sau lng, tay phi cm mp vi (bn phi)
lun t sau nch phi ra trc ngc ri vt phn vi cn li qua vai tri.
(Nh vy l cnh tay phi v vai phi h ra). Cn on vi bn tri vt
trm ln phn vi trc, qua vai, bung xung pha ngc.
Ra ng, o phi c mc theo trnh t nh sau: qung tm vi t
sau lng ra pha trc, hai mp vi lun di hai nch, chm hai mp vi
trc ngc. Cho tay tri vo trong gi on vi cch ngc khong
40cm to mt khong trng trc ngc. Xong li ko on vi y t vo
ngc v dng tay phi cun trn t hai mp u tm vi vo dn cho n
on tay tri ang gi, thnh mt cun trn di thng ng (tay phi cng
t vi vo ngc mi cun d dng c). Sau , nh c khong trng
trc ngc, ngi mc ko mp vi trn ln u nhm cho mp vi pha
di cao n mt c chn. Tip tc vt cun vi ln vai tri, a lun di
nch t sau ra trc, cnh tay tri cp cht li l xong. Nh vy cnh tay

tri s khng c t do c ng bnh thng

V i, xa kia c loi nn ring cho nh s gi l nn tu l. Nn lm
bng l gi, gn nh chic m rng vnh. Ngy nay khng phn bit, i
nng, cc s ng i m l, m ct, c thi gian i kiu m hng o
mu nu. Tri rt i m len nu, hnh trn ng, trn chit kht li, hay an
kiu ni mi nh nh hnh bt c trn u cc tng Pht. Cc s b i
nn bnh thng. Cc nh s Nam tng khng i m, khi ra ng, nu
cn, dng mu vng hoc en.
Nht thit cc nh s nam n u co trc u. Ring n c khn cht
u. y l ming vi di 80cm rng t 50cm n 60cm, mu nu nh
mu qun o. Khi i khn, gp mp khn (t 5cm n 10cm) theo chiu
di, trm khn ln u, mp ch gp trc trn, hai u khn a ra
pha sau ri vt cho nhau gy, nht mt phn vi hai bn u khn
vo trong, ngay sau hai tai.
Lc lm l chy n, nh s cn i mt loi m nhiu mu hnh hoa sen,
gi l m tht Pht, gm c by cnh, mi cnh thu mt hnh Pht hay
hnh hoa sen, hnh ch phn Ngoi ra, ty theo m l, n l, cn dng
m t l, m Pht quang, m Quan m, m hip chng
Tt c cc s si Bc tng u eo chui ht, gi l trng ht. C th l
mt chui di hoc hai, ba chui ngn, nhng nht thit c 108 ht, tng
trng cho 108 qu b . Ln trng ht mong b i 108 iu phin
no, iu xu trong ci i trn tc.
Cc nh s phi Nam tng khng eo trng ht.
TRANG PHC THIN CHA GIO
nc ta cho ti nay, o Cng gio v o Tin Lnh ang c nhiu tn
hn c. Trang phc trong o Cng gio Vit Nam thng thy nh
sau:
Ngoi nhng tn c sao mc vy (nhng vn thng dng o mu
en), tng lp hc sinh hc cc tiu chng vin trc y phi mc o
khu (o di bng vi mu en), qun trng. Ngy nay c th mc qun o
bnh thng nhng mu sc khng sc s. Tc ct ngn khng chi chut.

Qua bc trung hc, ln n i chng vin, bnh thng mc o di en,

qun trng. Khi ln nh th hay cuc l nghi no , vi chc Thy,
c mc o thm chng (soutane) rng, di chm gt. Tay o rng,
thng u. C o trn, khng cao lm, c lt trong mt khoang vi h
cng mu trng. trc ngc o c x mt on chui u, x tay,
sut t c n gu o, chy di mt hng khuy to. c thi gian, o ny
c sa hng khuy, ci cho nh o di Vit Nam.
Ln chc Linh mc, tr khi trong phng ring, bc ra ngoi l Cha
mc o thm chng. Khi Cha mi chu chc, phi ct trn mt t tc trn
nh u. Sau tc cng c, nhng khng tc di. Chn i giy
en.
Gim mc mc o chng en nh Cha, nhng o c vin tm, khuy tm,
cn khoc thm mt o chong en ngn bn ngoi, cng vin tm, eo
thnh gi, tht quanh bng mt ai vi mu tm , rng chng 15cm,
khng buc mi, c tua bung th di bn tri. i m chm (calotte)
lm bng vi hnh trn nh, ch i trn nh u. Gim mc c eo
nhn, biu th s gn b vi Cha v vi a phn. Thnh gi v nhn, kiu
cch, cht liu ty nghi. i giy en.
Tng Gim mc, trang phc nh Gim mc, c bit c eo dy
Tng Gim mc (pallium) trc ngc. u i m chm bng vi mu tm
nh mu tht lng.
Nh tn gi, c Hng Y mc o chng mu (kiu nh o chng
en), o chong ngn cng mu . Trong o chong ngn l mt o bng
ren trng mng di n u gi, ng tay o ny rng hn tay o chng cht
t. Ngoi ra, khi lm l, c Hng y, Tng Gim mc v cc Gim mc
c i m mitra. M mitra trng ging hnh na qu trm (ct ngang),
pha trn nh nhn li x dc hai bn. Ta quen gi l m c cung, m
gu v m mitra trng cng ging hnh nh vy. M c ct, ngoi bc la
trng thu vng, loi n gin ch bc la trng. u trang tr hoa vn.

1. Hng y Gio ch trong l phc 2. Gim mc trong l phc 3. Gim mc trong l phc 4. Ch b trong l
phc gip l

M i Mitra

Nhng ngi n tu (c gi l B x, B phc), ty theo cc dng

khc nhau m trang phc c s khc nhau. Nh mc o vy en, i m
bng vi trng, h cng, vnh m rt rng, hai bn c un ln, to thnh
mt m nhn pha trc (cornette). Kiu trang phc ny nay him gp.

Hoc mc o di en, qun en, u trm khn lp (khn en, c l trng

pha trn trn, phn khn cn li bung ph sau lng).
Trn y l mt s hnh thc trang phc thng dng, ngoi ra cn c th
c nhng kiu o, kiu m khc na ca cc gio phm (nh o chong
c rng, ty theo ni dung bui l m dng mu sc khc nhau, hoc dng
loi m hai mi kiu c), cn c nhng kiu o, kiu m ca cc b phn
phc v nghi l (nh Ca on, cc ch b gip l, v.v)
Gn y, khi khng hnh l, tip xc vi x hi thng nht, cc v chc
sc cng gio mc trang phc i thng (nh coml, bludng, s
mi), tuy nhin vn gi li mt vi du hiu nht nh (nh vn l
khoang vi cng mu trng ni c o).

Cc b x trong trang phc ngy l

Trang phc trong o Tin Lnh Vit Nam rt n gin. Hi Thnh Tin
Lnh cho rng trang phc cng l mt trong nhng biu hin to iu
kin c s gn gi gia cc v gio phm vi gio dn. Do , cc v
chc sc nh Mc s, Ging s, Chp s khi lm l vn mc trang

phc bnh thng nh qun o trong sinh hot hng ngy, nh trang phc
ca cc tn n d l (trc y, cc mc s vn mc o di the en
ph ngoi o di trng, u i khn xp, hoc mc u phc), tt c
u khng chu s qui nh no v trang phc, min l gi c tnh
nghim tc, s trang trng.
c bit, trong bui lm l Bap tm, ngi chu l c mc mt loi o
mang tnh biu tng. l kiu o chng rng mu en hay xm, tay o
rng, c o thp, trc ngc m mt mt on ngn chui u. o di
n gn c chn ngi mc v ch mc trong bui lm l.

Cc mc s, chp s o Tin lnh

Ban ht l trong o Tin Lnh mc ng phc, n thng mc o thng

rng, mu sng, tay di rng, c tay vin mu nht; nam mc u phc. Lp
tui thiu nhi, vai chong thm tm ym (pha Nam gi l xy, nh kiu vn
kin). Nh vy, trang phc ca Ban ht l cng khng c nh m c th
khc nhau v thit k kiu dng, mu sc ty theo kh nng v thm m
ca cc a phng. Nh c ni may tm vn kin mu , ct trn, vin
vng cho b gi, ct cho u nhn cho b trai; hoc c ni trang tr trc
ngc tng ngi mt di vi rng khong 8cm, di khong 60cm, mu
vng nht hay xanh nht Hoc c ni, c thi gian, nam mc com l, n
mc o di hay o dn tc, v.v

Ban ht l

Cc tn Tin lnh trong l phc Bap Tm

Nh trn trnh by, v hnh thc, trang phc trong Pht gio cng nh
Thin Cha gio, thng l gin d. o qun khng dim da, cu k. Mu
sc trang phc ni chung l mu ti. Cc nh s nam n u co trc u.
Cc hc sinh, thy dng, cha, gim mc tc u ct ngn.
Xut pht t mc ch, ni dung ca tng tn gio, hu ht nhng ngi

lm tn gio u t nguyn sng gin d. iu ny nh hng rt r n

phn n mc ca h.
iu ng k l trang phc trong Pht gio Vit Nam c bn a
ha cao , c bit l phi Bc tng. o cnh ci khuy gia, o di ci
khuy cnh, qun ng rng ca s nam, s n u xut pht t mu o
qun ca dn tc. Kiu cht khn ca s n cng l mt sng to ca Vit
Nam. Mu nu ca trang phc cc s Vit Nam cng l mu ca mt dn
tc, mt t nc c nhiu c nu lm thuc nhum. Trong Thin Cha
gio, t hc sinh tiu chng vin, cng thng thy s dng chic o di
en ci khuy cnh, qun trng kiu dn tc. Kiu o l (soutane), khi thy
c hng khuy gia thn o, c thi gian sa thnh ci khuy cho t
c xung nch, ging vi kiu o nm thn Vit Nam. Cc Mc s o Tin
Lnh mc o the, i khn xp
Nh vy, c th ni, trong lnh vc trang phc, thc bn a ha ph
hp vi phong tc, tp qun, vi thc t khch quan Vit Nam - em
li cho tn gio Vit Nam mt mu sc Vit Nam c o.

Trang phc lc lng v trang cch mng

TRANG PHC QUN I NHN DN VIT NAM
Di s lnh o ca ng Cng sn ng Dng, ngy 22-12-1944
ti chin khu Vit Bc, i V trang Tuyn truyn Gii phng qun Vit
Nam c thnh lp. Vi qun s 34 ngi, h l nhng ngi u tin
ca lc lng v trang chnh qui ca ng. D cng chung mt l tng
nhng khc nhau v thnh phn xut thn, ngh nghip v.v, li do hon
cnh lc y mi ngi phi c mt vic lm no , va sinh sng, va
che mt k th, nn trang phc mi ngi mi v: ngi mc qun o
chm, ngi mc qun o nu, ngi mc com l, ngi i hi xo,
ngi i giy vi, ngi i giy da,v.v
Va chin u, va xy dng lc lng, tnh hnh trang phc ca qun
i bin chuyn ty thuc vo s ng h ca nhn dn v chin li phm
thu c ca ch sau mi trn nh thng. Do ngoi qun o thng,
c khi cc i vin cn mc c qun o lnh kh xanh, lnh kh , qun o
lnh hoc v quan Php, Nht cho ti ngy Tng khi ngha thng li.
ra mt nhn dn Th H Ni, cho mng ngy c lp (2-9-1945), i
V trang tuyn truyn Gii phng qun t chin khu v H Ni c
trang b ng b.
Nam o s mi cc tay, vt o b trong qun. Mc qun soc, tht lng
da to bn. Chn i giy da ngn c. i m ct mu trng.
N o s mi cc tay, c ti ngc, tht lng da to bn. Mc qun vi
mu en, gu qun tm gn. i giy ba ta. Tc cp gn. i m rng vnh
mu chm.

i v trang tuyn truyn gii phng qun Vit Nam

N i vin tuyn truyn gii phng qun

N i vin du kch

ginh c chnh quyn, nhng vn trang phc qun i vn cha

c qui nh, s trang b ty thuc kh nng ca tng n v, tng a
phng.
Ring H Ni, cc chin s V quc qun (a s l tiu t sn, hc
sinh, cng nhn) mc rt p. o s mi, qun b ng, i giy da c thp.
c bit l c loi m ca l vi mu vng hay bng d tm than, i lch
trn u. Trc m nh mt ngi sao vng trn nn trn. T v chin
u thnh eo sao vng, nn vung (u bng vi hoc n mu ).
i vi cn b ch huy, qun hiu cn thu thm mt vnh mu vng cho
cc cp tiu i trng, trung i trng, i i trng, t cp chi i
trng thu bng si kim tuyn (vng). Cp ph, thu mt vnh mu trng,
t cp chi i ph, thu bng si ngn tuyn (bc).
Ngoi ra, cn c cp hiu hnh ch nht (5cm x 2cm) gi ti ngc bn
tri. Cp hiu, nn bng vi mu , gia thu sao mu trng. Cp cn
b tiu i mt sao, trung i hai sao, i i ba sao, chi i bn sao.
Cp trng, thu vnh vng, cp ph, thu vnh trng.
19-12-1946, Ton quc khng chin chng thc dn Php xm lc.
Cc lc lng v trang tn vo dn, da vo dn, mc nh dn. min
Bc, min Trung ch yu mc vi nu o cnh c hai ti, qun ta buc tm
ng (do c tn gi b i l V tm (cng c ngi cho rng do c
chin s rch o, rch qun, cha v kp, ly dy buc tm li, nn c tn

gi nh vy). C ngi mc s mi, qun u. M nn, giy dp c g dng

vy. C ngi i chn t. Cn b mc thm o bludng, o vt Ca na
ing, o va ri. Ty theo kh nng t tc. Chin s Khu V, mc o cnh,
[83]
qun ta mu tro xm, bng vi si bng gi l vi Sita . Min Nam
thng mc o b ba en, qun i, do c im thi tit nng v phi
hot ng trong a hnh Nam B nhiu knh rch, snh ly.
[84]
Cui nm 1947, xut hin chic o chn th
trong qun i. o chn
th rt n gin, ngn n tht lng, c trn, khng c tay o. Gm hai
mnh trc sau, ni lin nhau cnh sn v mt bn vai. Cn cnh
sn v trn vai bn kia th ci cc. Mi mnh o may hai ln vi, gia
nhi bng, chn hnh qu trm. o gn gng, gi nhit tt. Nhng nm
khng chin gian kh, him bng, c thi k phi dng lng vt hay v cy
sui p rp, phi kh thay bng. Cc, khuy cng thiu, phi dng dy vi
buc hoc lm cc bng giy p tm sn thay th.

B i trong trang phc chn th, m li,

dp lp

Qun du kch

dp lp

M li, M tai bo, Dp cao su

i vin gii phng qun min Nam trong

qun phc

N dn qun min Nam trong trang phc o b

ba, khn rn

Tm o chn th tr thnh mt in hnh khi ta ni ti anh b i thi

k khng chin chng Php. Thm vo , khng th khng nhc ti chic
m an bng tre, bc vi trm c vnh m, bn ngoi ph mt tm li c
dt ri rc nhng ming vi d hoa x nh ngy trang. C trng hp
m ch bc vi d hoa. Di chn anh b i l i dp lp cao su en
(thng gi tt l dp lp, dp cao su).
i dp cao su ny t Khu IV tr ra c gi l dp Bnh Tr Thin. y
l mt sng to c gi tr lch s, gii quyt c i cho qun, dn ta
sut thi gian khng chin chng Php v mi v sau ny. Chin s ta ly
lp xe, o chn ct thnh dp, di tm l x quai bng xm t (cao
su en), hai quai cho pha trn, hai quai ngang pha di lm quai hu v
quai qung. B ngang cc quai khong 1cm. Mt i dp rt n gin,

dng c trong mi iu kin nng, ma, li nc, p gai, v.v B

i, nhn dn ang thiu i, a s i chn t, nay thy i dp ny ra
i vi gi thnh khng ng k, nn lp tc mi ngi a thch s dng.
Dp ln n Vit Bc c ci tin, hai quai cho lm to bn ra v
c ng thm anh tre cho tut. C ni dng quai bng cao su mu
, ct ln kh p.
T nm 1950, tng bc b i c trang b ng b: o s mi hai
ti, c cu vai, qun u, gu qun c khuy v khuyt ci tm li cho
gn gng. C b mu xanh l cy hay mu c a. Giy vi xanh, cao
su. Nhiu ngi vn i dp cao su en.
Trong chin dch Ty Bc (1952), chng ci rt ca vng rng ni, b
i c pht o chn th di tay (nh mt th bludng bng). Ngoi ra,
thu c nhiu d chin li phm, mi ngi thng dng mt ming
d to, khi hnh qun th ngy trang, tri rt, qung c, m ng, lm chn
p.
Nm 1953, qun i ta bt u c trang b qun phc thng nht, v
n ngy tip qun Th (10-1954), a s c mc ng phc.
Chin s: kiu o s mi tay di, c ng, hai ti ngc c np, vai m
thm vi v my 32 ng ch cho bn, tht lng vi ra ngoi o, qun u,
m ci, giy vi ( cao su), tt c mu xanh l cy hay mu c a. Mc o
ny, b vt ra ngoi qun (mc o s mi thng, phi cho vt o vo
trong qun).
Cn b trung cp: o c bn ti trong, np ngoi, khng c m vai,
khng tht lng ra ngoi o.
Cn b cao cp: trang phc nh cn b trung cp, nhng dng loi vi
tt hn (nh ga ba in).
[85]
c qun hiu bng ng hnh trn , ng knh 3cm, nn , c
nhiu tia t mt ngi sao vng ni gia ta ra. Vnh qun hiu l mt
ng g ni nh, mu vng.

Binh s, h s quan Lc qun mc qun phc thng dng ma ng (1. Nam, 2. N)

Binh s, h s quan (1. Phng khng, 2. Khng qun) mc qun phc thng dng ma h

Binh s, h s quan Hi qun mc qun phc thng dng ma ng / B i hi qun mc kiu o ngn
tay / B i Phng khng mc kiu o di tay / Binh s, h s quan mc qun phc thng dng c o chng
rt

Nm 1958 bt u c trang phc, qun hiu, cp hiu, ph hiu ca lc

qun, hi qun, khng qun.
Lc qun: trang phc nh kiu c (nm 1954). Qun hiu hnh trn,
ng knh 3,8cm, nn , gia l ngi sao vng ni, c nhiu tia ta
ra. di l hnh na bnh xe, hai bn c hai bng la m vng ln,
tng trng cho cng nng. eo trc m.
Khng qun: o bludng, hai ti ngc c np, qun u, i bt cao (hoc
giy da en), i m bay. Qun hiu nn xanh da tri (tng trng cho
bu tri), ngi sao vng ni gia hnh hai cch chim bc, pha di c
hnh na bnh xe, vng hai bn l hnh bng la.
Hi qun: o s mi trng, vi dy, c chui, c o lin ym. Ngoi ra cn
c mt ym trng m trong c o pha trc vi nm ng k mu tm
than. M vi trng c vnh da ghi ch Qun i nhn dn Vit Nam, v

hai di vi mu xanh bung v pha sau. Qun hiu, nn mu tm than

(tng trng cho bin), gia l hnh ngi sao vng ni ln hnh m neo
mu , pha di c hnh na bnh xe, vng hai bn l hnh bng la.

Binh s, h s quan mc qun phc d chin / S quan Lc qun mc qun phc thng dng ma h / S
quan, qun nhn chuyn nghip Khng qun mc qun phc thng dng ma h

Cp hiu ca cc qun chng u nn mu vng, vin chung quanh theo

mu nn ca tng loi qun hiu. Cp hiu eo cu vai.
Ph hiu, nn theo mu ca tng qun chng, c cc hnh tng trng
theo tng loi binh chng. Ph hiu eo ve o.
Trong khi min Bc qun i tin dn ln chnh qui hin i th min
Nam, cc chin s Gii phng qun vn ngy m ng u vi quc
M v b l tay sai trong mt cuc chin tranh v cng khc lit.
Chic m tai bo tng trng cho ngi chin s Gii phng qun (l
mt loi m vi mu xanh l cy, vnh m trn v mm trng ging nh
mt cnh bo). Chin s Gii phng qun mc o s mi, qun u vi xanh
l cy. i giy vi. Ngoi ra, thng khoc mt mnh d hoa ngy
trang. Qun hiu nn na trn , na di mu xanh da tri, gia l ngi
sao vng ni (tng trng cho l c gii phng min Nam).

Ngoi nhng b trang phc thng dng, ngnh qun trang cn nghin
cu sng to ra nhiu b qun o mi gp phn gii quyt nhng vn
qun s. Tuy y khng phi l trang phc chnh qui nhng c ngha
lch s, gp phn vo nhng chin cng oanh lit vang i ton cu. l
nhng qun trang nghip v:
B qun o ca chin s li my bay ngnh qun trang Vit Nam sn
xut, mc ra ngoi b qun o cao p, c may theo qui cch ring, ph
hp vi c tnh chin u ca ta, s dng thun li, gn nh: qun su
ti, o mi ti, kiu cch mang nhng nt dn tc khi nhy d thot
him khng ln vi phi cng ch.
o phao cho cc chin s c cng thy: may theo kiu o cc tay, hai
ln vi, trong cha ht xp c tc dng lm ni ngi, nht l trong
trng hp chin s ui sc, hoc b ngt i khi lm nhim v.
o gip: trn c s o chn th hai lt vi, gia c t cc ming tre
c hay kim loi. Hoc buc ngoi o nhiu ming kim loi xp chng
ln nhau nh vy t t, mi ngi, c tc dng chng mnh n, bom bi ca
ch.
o gip ngn cho chin s li xe t. o gip di cho chin s ng
im cht (m bom ri hay bo ng). o ny nng n 27 kg.

S quan (1. Lc qun, 2. Phng khng) mc qun phc thng dng ma dng
Binh s, h s quan Hi qun mc qun phc d l ma h (1. Nam. 2. N)

Sau khi thng nht t nc, Qun i nhn dn Vit Nam tin ln chnh
qui, hin i, trang phc qun i c nghin cu k cng, chu o hn.
Ngoi cng nng ph hp vi tnh chin u cao, vi iu kin thi tit,
vi kh nng kinh t trc mt, cn ng thi quan tm nhiu n yu t
thm m.
Nm 1982, trang phc ca Qun i nhn dn Vit Nam c qui nh
[86]
p dng thng nht trong ton qun (gi l qun phc K82) .
Qun phc K82 c kiu mc trong ma h, ma thu, c kiu mc
trong ma ng, ma xun; c kiu dng cho s quan, chun y, qun nhn
chuyn nghip, h s quan, binh s, hc vin nam v n; c kiu ca b i
hi qun, c kiu dng cho lc lng lm nhim v chuyn bit
V qun, ni chung l mt kiu thng nht.
Cht liu, ty theo cp bc, c nhng loi vi khc nhau. Qui cch mc,

khi lm vic, khi hi hp, khi d l, khi i nc ngoi u c qui nh.

Trong hot ng bnh thng, s quan, chun y, qun nhn chuyn
nghip, ma h, ma thu, nam mc o (kiu nh s mi bludng) cht gu,
di tay, c ng, hoc o cht gu, ngn tay, c b. N mc o di tay c
ng hoc o di tay c b (khng c o ngn tay). C hai loi u c 2
ti ngc may ngoi, np ti ln. Mc qun di. eo qun hm kt hp.
[87]
i giy hoc i dp , khi cn thit c th i ng. i m cng hoc m
mm.
Ma ng, ma xun, qun phc K82 ng b cng mt loi vi, theo
[88]
mu ca tng qun chng . o s mi trong c ng, mu qun phc
(khng mc mu khc). Cra vt mu ru thm. o ngoi c b, c 4 ti
ni, np ln. Qun nh kiu ma h. eo qun hm kt hp. i m
mm hoc m cng, vng rt nhiu c th i m bng. i giy (khng
[89]
c i dp) .

S quan, qun nhn chuyn nghip Hi qun mc qun phc thng dng ma h
S quan, qun nhn chuyn nghip Lc qun mc qun phc d l ma ng

S quan, qun nhn chuyn nghip Hi qun mc qun phc d l ma h

S quan, qun nhn chuyn nghip Khng qun mc qun phc d l ma h

Ring b i hi qun, mc o s mi mu trng hoc mu ghi nht trong

o qun phc ma ng K82, eo cra vt mu tm than.
B i hi qun nh b, mc theo kiu v mu qun phc khng qun,
mang qun hm kt hp mu tm than, c hnh ph hiu khng qun.
Lc rt, c th mc o khoc di K82, ch eo qun hm kt hp. Khi
mc o khoc, o ma c dy tht bn ngoi, phi tht v ci ngay ngn
pha trc.
H s quan, binh s v hc vin cha phi l h s quan hoc chun y,
nam, mc qun phc K82 chin s, o trm mng, hai ti ngc c np
ln, c ci kn, ng tay c ci khuy, vt o b ngoi qun, tht lng to bn
ngoi. Khi mc qun phc kiu o s mi v o kiu ca hi qun, vt o
b trong qun, tht lng nh bn ngoi. Mang qun hm kt hp, i m
cng hoc m mm. vng rt nhiu, c th i m bng. i giy hoc i
dp, khi cn thit c th i ng.

Binh s, h s quan (1.- Lc qun, 2.- Khng qun) mc qun phc nghip v nghi l
S quan khng qun mc qun phc nghip v nghi l (1.- Ma ng. 2.- Ma h)

Nu l b i hi qun, mc qun phc kiu o c ym theo tng ma.

Mang qun hm vung u b vai. i m cng nh m b binh hoc
i m mm mu tm than. M (c di) c hai ma u mu trng ch dng
trong nghi l v hi hp long trng. Trn m c qun hiu v ch Hi qun
Vit Nam mu vng. i giy hoc i dp, khi cn thit c th i ng.
Hc vin hi qun, mc nh qun phc hc vin b binh nhng theo mu
hi qun ty theo tng ma.
Hi qun nh b, mc nh kiu v mu qun phc b binh, mang qun
hm kt hp mu tm than, c hnh ph hiu hi qun nh b.
B i khng qun thuc hi qun mc nh kiu v mu qun phc
khng qun. Mang qun hm kt hp mu tm than, c hnh ph hiu khng
qun. i m cng nh b binh hoc m mm mu tm than. i giy hoc
i dp, khi cn thit c th i ng.
i vi n, (gm tt c cc qun chng), mc qun phc K82 ca n.
o hai ti ngc c np ln, chit li eo, gu o to, tay o mng st, ci
khuy.
eo qun hm kt hp, i m cng hoc m mm, vng rt nhiu c
th i m bng. i giy hoc i dp.
Cc lc lng lm nhim v chuyn bit, khi hot ng bnh thng,
mc qun phc thng dng, theo tng ma nh qui nh trn (ty theo
tng i tng). Khi lm cng tc nghip v, b i gc Lng v bo v
khu Bo tng H Ch Minh, b i danh d ca b v qun nhc, mc
qun phc K82 mu trng c vin vnh m k pi, ve o ngoi v
np dc qun. M k pi c dy mu vng. Cc o ni mu vng c ngi
sao gia hai bng la.
o s mi trong ca b i gc Lng v b i bo v khu Bo tng H
Ch Minh, mu trng, ca b i danh d v qun nhc mu c a, cra vt
mu ru thm. Khi ha nhc hoc phc v l tang, qun nhc mc o s
mi trng, eo cra vt en.

Vn cng qun i chuyn nghip mc qun phc khi biu din.

Cc n v chuyn mn nh li my bay, li xe tng, xe bc thp, th
my, b i c cng, qun y khi luyn tp , hot ng, cng tc theo
nghip v chuyn mn no th mc trang phc nghip v .

Binh s, h s quan gc lng Ch tch H Ch Minh mc qun phc nghip v nghi l (1. Ma ng. 2. Ma
h) / S quan gc lng Ch tch H Ch Minh mc qun phc nghip v nghi l (1. Ma ng, 2. Ma h)

B i qun nhc mc qun phc nghip v nghi l (1.- Ma ng 2.- Ma h)

S quan mc qun phc d chin (1, 2)

Cc lc lng cnh v, canh gc cc c quan Trung ng ng, Nh

nc, B Quc phng, cc c quan b t lnh qun khu, qun on, binh
on, qun chng, binh chng, cc hc vin v trng thuc b, cc lc
lng kim sot qun s chuyn nghip, khi lm nhim v, mc qun phc
K82 c tht lng to bn ngoi. Ban ngy mang qun hm vai, ph hiu c
hnh qun chng, binh chng hoc ngnh chuyn mn, i m k pi, i giy.
Ban m i m cng hoc m mm, mang qun hm kt hp, khi cn
thit c th i m st.
i cng tc, hc tp, hi hp, cng tc nc ngoi, s quan hoc
chun y k c qun nhn chuyn nghip v n, mc qun phc K82.
Khi nng, qun phc h theo mu ca tng qun chng, o cht gu, di
tay, c cng, c cra vt (mu ru thm), mang qun hm vai (khng eo
ph hiu ve o), i m k pi, i giy da, eo cung hun chng.
Khi rt, mc qun phc ng ng b theo mu ca tng qun chng. o
s mi trong c ng, mu qun phc, c cra vt (mu ru thm), mang
qun hm vai. Ve o ca cp tng, eo cnh tng v mt ngi sao mu
vng, cp t v cp y eo ph hiu c hnh qun chng, binh chng hoc

ngnh chuyn mn. i m k pi. M k pi cp tng c cnh tng kp

mu vng bao quanh qun hiu, dy mu vng; cp t c dy mu vng,
cp y khng c dy mu vng. Ring m k pi ca s quan hi qun vnh
m mu trng, thnh m mu xanh tm than (c hai ma).
i giy da, eo cung hun chng.
Khi rt, mc o khoc ngoi kiu K82, eo qun hm vai, ve o cp
tng c cnh tng v mt ngi sao vng, cp t eo nn ph hiu c hnh
qun chng, binh chng hoc ngnh chuyn mn.

S quan mc o khoc lng chng rt / S quan mc o khoc chng rt

H s quan, binh s v hc vin cha phi l s quan hoc chun y, mc

qun phc K82 nh trong nc, mang qun hm vai, ph hiu c hnh
qun chng binh chng hoc ngnh chuyn mn. i m k pi, i giy, eo

cung hun chng.

[90]
Khi d l ln , i vi cp tng, mc l phc ma h mu xm nht,
ma ng mu c a thm, o ngoi c b, cc o mu vng hnh quc
huy, hai ti di chm, c o c vin theo mu ca tng qun chng v b
i bin phng, trn ve o c cnh tng v mt ngi sao vng. o s mi
trng, c ng, di tay, cra vt en. eo qun hm vai. i m k pi vin
, c cnh tng kp mu vng bao quanh qun hiu, dy mu vng. Qun
nh qun phc thng. Giy da en.
Cp t, l phc, mu v hnh thc nh ca cp tng. Ch khc, m k pi
khng c cnh tng bao quanh qun hiu. Ve o ch c cnh tng khng c
ngi sao vng. Cc o hnh sao c hai bng la.
Cp y, mc qun phc ng K82 ng b.
H s quan, binh s, hc vin cha phi l h s quan hoc chun y, mc
qun phc K82 chin s, mang qun hm vai, eo ph hiu c hnh qun
chng, binh chng hoc ngnh chuyn mn. i m cng hoc m mm
(thng nht theo tng khi), i giy.
Qun nhn d l eo hun chng, huy chng, v huy hiu c
tng thng.
Khi d l nh hoc hi hp long trng trong v ngoi nc, s quan v
chun y k c qun nhn chuyn nghip, h thu, mc qun phc h thu
K82, o cht gu ngn tay, c b (khng c cra vt) mang qun hm vai,
eo ph hiu ve c o. Trng hp mc o cht gu di tay, c ng,
khng tht cra vt, m cc c, mang qun hm v ph hiu nh khi mc
o c b, c th xn tay o trn khuu tay, gp np ngay ngn.
Khi i cng tc, hc tp nc ngoi lc nng bc c th mc o cht
gu di tay, c ng, eo cra vt, mang qun hm vai. Khi tht cra vt th
khng eo ph hiu.
H s quan, binh s, hc vin cha phi l s quan hoc chun y, mc
qun phc K82, chin s eo qun hm vai, eo ph hiu c hnh qun
chng, binh chng hoc ngnh chuyn mn. i m cng hoc m mm
(thng nht theo tng khi), i giy.

Qun nhn d l nh hoc hi hp long trng, eo cung hun chng,

huy chng v huy hiu c tng thng. S quan cp tng v cp t,
lc rt c th mc o khoc K82, eo qun hm vai. Ma h, c th mc
o cht gu c b, mang qun hm vai, eo ph hiu c hnh qun chng,
binh chng hoc ngnh chuyn mn.
Nm 1982, cng vi trang phc K82, qui nh v qun hiu, ph hiu,
cp hiu thng nht nh sau:
- Qun hiu ca Qun i nhn dn Vit Nam hnh trn, nn , gia l
ngi sao vng (biu tng l c T quc). Pha di c hnh na bnh xe,
v hai bng la vn ln bao quanh ngi sao, tng trng cho cng nng.
Vnh ngoi mu vng.
Qun hiu nh gn trn m mm, m bng, m ni ca vn cng. Qun
hiu ln gn trn m cng, m k pi, m c di ca h s quan, binh s hi
qun.
- Cp hiu ca s quan v chun y (mang trn vai o) bao gm c b i
bin phng v qun nhn chuyn nghip thng nht nn mu vng, c vin
mt ly theo mu ph hiu ca tng qun chng, b i bin phng v qun
nhn chuyn nghip.
Trn cp hiu ca cp tng c sao, c cc trn ni hnh quc huy mu
vng. Cc cp khc c sao, vch v cc ni hnh ngi sao gia hai bng
[91]
la mu trng. Cp hiu ca i t c ba sao, hai vch . Cp hiu ca
trung t c hai sao, hai vch; thiu t mt sao, hai vch.
Cp hiu ca i y c bn sao, mt vch; thng y ba sao mt vch,
trung y hai sao mt vch, thiu y mt sao mt vch, chun y mt vch.
Cp hiu ca h s quan, binh s, nn mu xm nht c vin mt ly theo
mu ca tng qun chng v b i bin phng. Trn nn cp hiu c cc
mu trng, c vch bng vi mu phn bit cp bc.
Cp hiu ca binh nht hai ch V, binh nh mt ch V. Ring nn cp
hiu ca h s quan, binh s khng qun trong b i danh d, mu xanh da
tri, vch cp hiu mu vng.

Cp hiu ca h s quan, binh s hi qun, hnh vung, nn mu xanh tm

than. Binh nht, hai vch vng hai u cp hiu; binh nh, mt vch vng
mt u cp hiu, tt c u c gn ph hiu ca qun chng hi qun,
hoc ngnh ngh chuyn mn gia nn ph hiu (k c ca h s quan).
Cp hiu ca hc vin o to s quan, nn theo mu ca tng qun
chng v b i bin phng c vin 6 ly mu vng v cc mu trng.
Cp hiu ca hc vin o to h s quan v nhn vin k thut trung cp,
nn theo mu cp hiu ca hc vin s quan nhng ch vin mt ly theo
mu qun chng, b i bin phng (khng vin vng).
Cp hiu ca qun nhc mu , ca vn cng mu vng (khng c vch
ngang) cc mu trng, trn nn cp hiu c hnh ph hiu ngnh chuyn
mn mu trng trn nn ni hnh trn mu .
Ph hiu (mang trn ve o) bao gm nn v hnh ph hiu. Nn ph hiu
c mu sc khc nhau phn bit cc qun chng, b i bin phng v
qun nhn chuyn nghip:
- Lc qun: mu ti.
- Khng qun v Phng khng: mu xanh da tri.
- Hi qun: mu tm than
- B i bin phng: mu xanh l cy.
- Qun nhn chuyn nghip: mu ghi sng.
Hnh ph hiu t trn nn ph hiu, c hnh dng khc nhau phn bit
qun chng, binh chng v ngnh chuyn mn. Ton qun c 25 loi hnh
ph hiu sau y:
- Binh chng hp thnh b binh: hnh thanh kim v khu sng t cho.
- B binh c gii: hnh xe bc thp trn thanh kim v khu sng t
cho.
- c cng: hnh dao gm t trn khi bc ph di c mi tn vng.
- Xe tng, xe bc thp: hnh xe tng.

- Pho binh: hnh hai khu pho t cho.

- Ha hc: hnh tia phng x trn hnh nhn benzen.
- Cng binh: hnh cuc, xng trn na bnh xe.
- Thng tin: hnh sng ln.
- B i bin phng: hnh mng nga trn thanh kim v khu sng t
cho.
- Qun chng khng qun: hnh sao trn hai cnh chim.
- B i nhy d: hnh cnh my bay trn d ang m.
- Qun chng phng khng: hnh hai khu pho t cho.
- Tn la: hnh tn la trn nn my.
- Cao x: hnh cnh ra a trn b.
- Qun chng Hi qun: hnh m neo.
- Hi qun nh b: hnh m neo trn thanh kim v khu sng t cho.
- Hu cn - Ti v: hnh thanh kim v khu sng t cho, di c bng
la.
- Qun y, th y: hnh ch thp trn hnh trn.
- K thut: hnh com pa t trn chic ba.
- Li xe: hnh tay li trn dp xe.
- Qun php: gm c quan iu tra hnh s, ta n qun s, Vin kim
st qun s, c quan php ch, v cc lc lng kim sot qun s: hnh
mc trn hai thanh kim t cho.
- Qun nhc: hnh chic kn v so t cho.
- Th cng: hnh cung tn.
- Vn cng: hnh k hiu m nhc v n nguyt.
Hnh ph hiu ca cp tng mu vng, ca cc cp khc mu trng.

L mt qun i anh hng, c truyn thng chin thng oanh lit, t th

ca qun i ni chung, ca tng qun nhn ni ring l iu khng th coi
nh. Trong mi quan h x hi, t th y li cng phi c quan tm
cng c, n c biu hin thng xuyn trn c s phong cch v k
lut qun i. Mt trong nhng yu t gp phn to nn t th v thc y
t th y ngy mt hon chnh l h thng trang phc ca qun i. Chnh
cng v nhn thc c iu , t thi L, trang phc qun lnh cng
c coi trng. Lut ban hnh khng cho ngi dn c s dng ln ln
hoc mua bn trang phc binh lnh, k t chic nn sn ca chin binh.
T khi thnh lp, Qun i nhn dn Vit Nam vt qua bao gian
kh, hy sinh chin u anh dng, c l tng r rng. Nhng ngy khng
chin trng k, trong iu kin cm n cn thiu, o mc cha , qun
i ta ha mnh vo trong bin c nhn dn, quan h qun - dn nh
quan h c - nc. B i nh gic v nhn dn, da vo nhn dn m
nh gic. vi dn, o qun, cng ging nh trang phc ca nhn dn
cng c nhiu thun li. Nhng ri n giai on qun i doanh tri
ring, trang phc c cung cp ng b, s dng phi theo qui nh.
Nht l sau ngy ginh c hon ton c lp, t do, t nc hai min
c thng nht, cc hnh thc t chc nghi l ngy cng pht trin,
mi quan h ngoi giao vi quc t ngy cng m rng, t chc qun i
ngy cng phi khoa hc hin i, vn trang phc qun i khng th
ty tin, s si. Cng nh t chc cc lc lng qun s trn th gii
ngy cng c kin ton mnh m, qun i ta cng pht trin cc qun
chng, binh chng a dng, i hi trnh t chc v ch huy qun s
ngy cng c nng cao, cc hnh thc trang phc trong qun i c
nghin cu, ra v thc hin, cng l p ng nhng yu cu nng
cao y (v d nh cc loi qun phc, cp hiu, ph hiu) to iu kin cho
s hp ng tc chin thm phn thun li.
Qua tng giai on, trang phc Qun i Nhn dn Vit Nam c s thay
i tng bc. Cc yu t thc dng (gp phn pht huy hiu qu cao
nht trong luyn tp, trong chin u), yu t thc t (ph hp vi iu kin
thi tit, kh hu, vi iu kin kinh t ca t nc), yu t thm m (sao
cho p mt) bao gi cng c xem trng.
So vi cc kiu c, qun phc K82 t ti mc hon chnh v thng

nht hn c. Tuy c s tham kho, hc tp cc kiu qun phc nc

ngoi, nhng qun phc K82 khng rp khun, my mc m ph hp vi
cc yu cu v thc dng, thc t, thm m ca Qun i nhn dn Vit
Nam.
(Ngy 20 - 4 - 1995, B trng B Quc phng ra Quyt nh s
338/Q-QP v vic s dng qun phc ca s quan, qun nhn chuyn
nghip, h s quan, binh s ca Qun i Nhn dn Vit Nam, trong c
mt s thay i nh, nhng ch yu vn da vo cc mu qun phc K82).

Li kt
Thng qua ci nhn lch i kt hp vi ng i, ta thy trang phc
ngi Vit, t n s, gin d, p nh tm hn ngi Vit c n s
pht trin, thch nghi, hi ha vi mi trng khc nghit ca kh hu v
thin nhin nhit i, khe khon qua bao cuc chin tranh chng gic
ngoi xm.
Trang phc l mt nhu cu vt cht quan trng trong i sng ca nhn
dn. Vi tnh cht thc dng, n l mt sn phm; di gc thm m,
n l mt tc phm mang tnh ngh thut. Chc nng c bn trc nht
ca trang phc l bo v con ngi. V mt ny, trang phc dn tc Vit
t c hiu qu cao.
Bc u trnh by v chc nng ca trang phc ngi Vit, trong lao
ng, hi h, chin u v cc mt khc, chng ti mun ni thm: i vi
ngi Vit, trang phc cn c chc nng phng bnh, tr bnh. Vi kh hu
m thp ca vng nhit i gi ma, bnh phong thp ph bin, ngi ta
chn g c bit lm guc cho ngi gi, vt liu c bit lm m
cho tr em. Tht lng v trang sc, mt vi th, cng c tc dng . Bn
cnh xu hng ny, mt xu hng thng thy ngi Vit l s dng
mt vt kim nhiu chc nng. Chic nn l c nhiu ngi cp
n. Chic khn trm u, cn qung c, vt vai, lm khn lau, gp lc
bt ng cng c khi l v kh phng h. S ra i ca i dp lp cao su
thi khng chin chng Php chng phi l s kin ngu nhin, mi sng
to u da trn ci gc vng chc ca bn lnh dn tc. Vn a chc
nng ca trang phc ngi Vit, trong nhiu trng hp cha hn v
ngho. i b vt Trng Sn, d ngi giu, vi i dp lp, vn l
phng thc ti u nht.
Mt thi gian, mu en ca chic qun ph n c nhiu ngi cp
n nh mt chc nng v sinh. Nu ch xt trn mt s bnh din nht nh
nh hon cnh kinh t v lao ng, vn khng d dng gii quyt ngay
c. C th n mt ngy no , vn qun la en ca ngi ph
n s c gii quyt, nh vic chuyn t mc vy sang mc qun ca
h?

Trang phc ca ngi Vit c s chn lc v hnh dng, kiu thc,

mu sc, cht liu, hoa vn trang tr. Thm ch, trang phc ca ngi Vit
c Lng Vc, vo thi dng nc cn c nhng thanh m ca ng
thau hoc bc (x tch). Ting st sot ca b o vy mi cng l s dng
tm thch th ca ngi mc, vo u th k XX. Tng lp giu sang, qu
phi bit s dng cc loi hng liu qu p qun o. Nhn dn th
thng dng ht mi khi bc o khn; l mi, l s gi u; hoa
bi, hoa nhi ci tc, vic chn la cc cht nhum mu cng
to cho o qun nhng hng v nht nh.
Trang phc ngi Vit cn c gi tr s liu m cc nh s hc gi l
nin i tng i. Vic on nh nin i tuyt i ca trang phc ngi
Vit l chuyn mn hp v su ca rt t nh nghin cu. Tnh a dng ca
trang phc ngi Vit th hin r nht qua tng a phng. C khi tnh
da dng ny hon ton do k thut.
T khi ginh li c quyn c lp, t ch vo th k X, cc vng
triu phong kin lu n mt s thng nht trong tnh a dng, bng
nhng qui ch, th l. Trang phc th hin tn ti, trn t phong kin, ngn
cm mi s vi phm. Ngy nay, trang phc ca Qun i Nhn dn
vt khung khi phm vi ca mt tc ngi c th, tr thnh b trang
phc c tnh quc gia.
Trang phc cng l mt hin tng vn ha, vn ha mc. Bn cnh
ngh trng la nc (vn minh la nc), ngh trng du, nui tm l mt
hot ng sn xut c bn trong i sng ca x hi ngi Vit.
Dn tc Vit c cu i cho sch, rch cho thm, va l nhc nh
nhng yu cu c th trong cung cch n mc, nhng ng thi cn c
mc ch gio dc mt phm cht thanh cao, mt np sng o c
Chng ta khng hp hi, bo th trc s pht trin, thay i cc kiu
cch trang phc, nht l trong thanh nin, nhng khng v th m cng nhn
nhng hin tng n mc ua i, chy theo mt l lng, ph trng, xa
hoa, lng ph xa ri truyn thng vn ha tt p ca dn tc. ng thi,
cng cn phn i nhng quan im cho rng nn kinh t ca ta cha pht
trin cao, nn c th n mc ty tin, cu th, thiu thm m, lm gim
gi tr cao p ca con ngi.

Trang phc l i tng ca th gic. N phi l mt biu hin bn ngoi

ca mt ni dung bn trong mang y nhng chun mc lnh mnh, hi
ha, thanh lch, thc tin.
T vic tm hiu trang phc ca ngi Vit, c th thy r s tip ni
vng vng gia truyn thng v hin i, trong nhng iu kin giao lu
vn ha a dng v thng xuyn, vi nhng sng to nhun nh v ci
m va c tnh dn tc va c tnh quc t.

T LIU THAM KHO

Vn kin i hi V, Nxb S tht 1982.
Lch s Vit Nam (tp I, tp II).
Nguyn ng Chi, Kho tng truyn c tch Vit Nam, Nxb Khoa hc X hi, 1982.
Phan Huy Ch, Lch triu hin chng loi ch, Nxb S hc, 1961.
Bng on - Trng Hu, Nhng i l v v khc ca vua cha Vit Nam, Nxb Hoa
L, 1968.
L Qu n, Vn i loi ng, Nxb Vn ha (Vin Vn hc), 1962.
L Qu n ton tp, tp I: Ph bin tp lc, Nxb Khoa hc X hi, 1977.
L Qu n ton tp, tp I: Kin vn tiu lc, Nxb Khoa hc X hi, 1977.
Phm nh H, V trung ty bt, Nxb Vn ha (Vin Vn hc), 1960.
Nguyn Phi Hoanh, Lc s M thut Vit Nam, Nxb Khoa hc X hi, 1970.
L Vn Lan - Phm Vn Kinh - Nguyn Linh, Nhng vt tch u tin ca thi i ng
thau Vit Nam, Nxb Khoa hc x hi, 1963.
Ng S Lin - Phm Cng Tr, i Vit s k ton th, Nxb Khoa hc X hi, 1967.
M thut thi L, Nxb Vn ha, 1973.
M thut thi Trn, Nxb Vn ha, 1977.
M thut thi L S, Nxb Vn ha, 1978.
M thut thi Mc, Vin M thut, 1993.
V Ngc Phan, Tc ng ca dao Vit Nam, Nxb Khoa hc X hi, 1978.
Tng B Honh, Ngh c truyn Hi Hng.
Quc s qun triu Nguyn, Vit s thng gim cng mc, Nxb Vn S a, 1957-1960.
Quc s qun triu Nguyn, i Nam thc lc, Nxb Khoa hc X hi, 1962-1977.
V Qunh - Kiu Th, Lnh nam chch qui, Nxb Vn ha (Vin Vn hc), 1960.
Vin Ti - (H Tn Pht) - Vn Cng, Th mai gia l, Nxb Hng Dn, 1961.
Vn Tn - Nguyn Linh - L Vn Lan - Nguyn ng Chi - Hong Hng, Thi i Hng
Vng, Nxb Khoa hc x hi, 1976.
Hong o Thy, Thng Long - ng - H Ni, 1971.

Trn Quc Vng - H Vn Tn, Lch s ch phong kin Vit Nam, tp I.

Trn Quc Vng - V Tun Sn, H Ni nghn xa, Nxb H Ni, 1998.
L T Xuyn, Vit in U Linh, Nxb Vn ha (Vin Vn hc), 1960.
P. Huard - M. Durand, Connaissance du Vietnam, cole franaise dExtrme - Orient, 1954.
Zhou Xun - Gao Chunming, 5000 nm Trang phc Trung Quc, Cng ty trch nhim hu
hn Bo ch Thng mi (Hng Kng), 1984.
L Trc, An Nam ch lc, bn ch Hn.
Cao Hng Trng, An Nam ch nguyn, bn in Trng Vin ng Bc C, 1932.
Khm nh i Nam hi in s l, Nxb. Thun Ha.
Nhng ngi bn C Hu, Nxb Thun Ha, 1997.
Tin m Nguyn Tng Phng, Lc kho binh ch Vit Nam qua cc thi i, Nxb Vn
ha - Thng tin, 2002.
i Nam in l tot yu, Nxb Thnh ph H Ch Minh, 1993.
Cao Tu, Lch triu tp k.
L triu quan ch, Vin S hc v Nxb Vn ha - Thng tin, 1977.
Phm nh H, Nguyn n, Tang thng ngu lc, NXB Vn hc, 1972.
Thi Cng Nguyn (ch bin), Bo tng M thut cung nh Hu, 1997.
Nguyn Ngh (ch bin), Hu, ngn nm vn vt, 1990.
Nguyn c Xun, Chuyn ni cung cc vua, 1998.
Bo, tp ch:
Nhn dn, Qun i Nhn dn, Trang phc Qun i Nhn dn Vit Nam, Tin phong, Ph
n, Dn tc hc, H Ni mi, Nam phong, Ngy nay, Kho c hc, Vn hc, M thut, Vn ha
Ngh thut, Xa v Nay, Heritage, Bo tng M thut cung nh Hu, T Nng n in
Bin Ph, Vit Nam trong qu kh qua tranh khc Php, Nhng pht hin mi v kho c
hc, Thng bo khoa hc (Vin Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam, i hc Tng hp H Ni)
nh t liu

Summary in English
Throughout the world, peoples style of dress is influenced by the climate. Vietnam is
generally humid, but since the country stretches over a distance of about 1,500 km north to
south, there is significant variation in the weather. Northern Vietnam experiences four relatively
distinctive seasons: spring, summer, autumn, and winter. Southern Vietnam on the other
hand, rarely experiences cold weather, only having two seasons, wet and dry. Of course, there
are also other factors that have an important effect. Vietnam is a country of high mountains
and dense forests, long rivers and large seas, vast fertile plains. These geographical features
result in a diversity in the costumes of Vietnamese people in each region.
Although the Viet people form the majority of the population, there are many ethnic groups in
Vietnam. This contributes to the wide variety of costumes worn in the country in the modern
age. However, Vietnam has an ancient civilization. Recently excavated bronze and stone
artifacts and shards of pottery, lying deep underground for thousands of years have proved the
existence of ancient civilizations. They provide the answers to many of our questions about
bygone times, including the question about the costumes of our ancestors.
The period of the Hng Kings
Three thousands five hundred years ago, Vietnam had an outstanding Bronze Age culture.
The country was called Vn Lang. People lived on hunting, gathering, and cultivating plants
such as rice, sweet potatoes, and fruit-trees. They no longer used tree bark to make clothing,
but knew how to grow hemp and jute and weave fabrics. They also raised silkworms to make
fine silk cloth. Their daily activities were depicted on bronze drums and in statues and carvings
discovered by archaeologists. People are depicted in stylized form wearing the costumes of
the time. For instance, the top of some of the bronze drums unearthed show the figure of a
man carrying another on his back; there are human shapes on urns, the statue of a man
playing the khn (pan-pipe). All of these give some idea of the clothes worn at the time.
Female figures carved on sword and dagger handles show that women wore adornments,
chignons, and turbans round their heads.
Thus, according to the evidence, there was a great diversity in our ancestors costumes.
Women wore a close fitting shirt to the waist, open at the neck, with a bra supported from the
neck as undergarment, decorated with a dotted rice grain pattern. There were also short
blouses with squared necks, uncovering part of the shoulder and chest, or covering the chest
but still showing part of the shoulder and back. These blouses could be worn over the head or
buttoned on the left. There were designs on the shirts and blouses. Abelt was worn with three
equidistantly patterned lines of dots, tied around the waist and accentuating the curves of the
female torso. The two tasseled ends of the belt were allowed to hang at the front and back.
The closed skirt clung to the body and was decorated with patterns of round dots, parallel
diagonals, and two circles with dots in the middle.
From the archaeological artifacts found, it can be concluded that women often wore two
kinds of skirt: a closed skirt (drawn over the head or stepped into), made with the two edges of
a cloth sewn in a tubular form; and an open skirt (wrapped around the body), with a cloth sash

a cloth sewn in a tubular form; and an open skirt (wrapped around the body), with a cloth sash
around the waist. These were short or long, reaching to the knees or touching the heels for
casual wear, or in upper-class costumes.
Men often wore a loincloth made from a strip of cloth 10cm in width and 1,2m or more in
length. Depending on the length, the cloth was wrapped once or many times around the belly,
the long or short end of the loincloth was dropped behind, sometimes in front. As seen from
the embossed statues, men in the ng Sn time were often half-naked. However, as seen
from the figures on other bronze objects, they might have worn shirts over the head, or
patterned overcoats.
Through remains such as pottery objects, pieces of wood and leather, it appears that yellow,
black, brownish-red, light gray, and light yellow were the frequently-used colors. The painting
materials were paints (pure sn ta), and special water-resistant dyes.
Since the people led a hard life of hunting, gathering, fishing, and wet rice cultivation, they
usually tied their hair. Men and women often had shoulder-length hair, or tied back their hair
neatly. Some had such short hair-cuts that even the roots of the hair were revealed. Both men
and women often gathered their hair in a roll at the back, or wore part in a roll, the rest braided
and allowed to hang at the back. In addition, strips of cloth, leather, or flat copper were also
worn on the forehead.
On the Sng drum there are figures of men with hair to the neck and women with hair
halfway down their back. As seen from the statues in Vit Kh, men gathered their hair in a
pointed long bun. A sword handle found in Thanh Hoa is engraved with a statue of a woman
with a cake-shaped bun at the back.
Soldiers costumes
Up to now, soldiers costumes were only known through remains of some accessories
such as armors parts, bronze belts, leggings and arm-guards. We know that breastplates of
this time were made from rectangular pieces of copper that were 1mm thick, 30cm long, and
13cm wide. Square pieces of armor (each side was 13-15cm) were used to cover each
essential part of the body. The breastplate had four straps, while the square pieces of armor
had holes at the corners to slip in a string or pin to the shirt.
Both types of armor had a smooth surface inside. On the outside surface were figures of
men disguising themselves as birds, or images of stylized crocodiles, or X-shaped and
horizontal S-shaped patterns, dots, circles with dots in the middle, or parallel lines. Bronze
belts, with big buckles, were made from a bronze chain of 5cm diameter pieces joined by
hooks. There were designs of turtles or birds on each piece; some pieces had small musical
bells attached.
Bronze buckles were made in the shape of a vertical rectangle (7.6cm x 5.5cm), decorated
with twisted S-shaped patterns. The edge of the buckle was hemmed with fish-bone designs.
A tubular bell hung from a hook.
Different kinds of bronze leggings and arm-guards, which might have been used by
common people in dances in festivals, had many tubular bells attached to them. This reminds

common people in dances in festivals, had many tubular bells attached to them. This reminds
us of the bells worn on wrists and ankles of the ethnic people in the North, Northwest and
CentralHighlands when they dance in festivals, or on ankles of military leaders in the classical
theatrical plays nowadays.
Popular jewelry and apparel styles
For ancient Vietnamese, both men and women had ears pierced and adorned themselves
with jewelry. Popular earrings for men and women were round or turban-coil shape. Some
were simply made from a round loop of cast copper wire, sometimes with hooks. Others were
decorated with incised lines, and twisted into two knots or more. In terms of weight, people at
this time often wore heavy round earrings, which made the earlobe stretch, sometimes as far
as the shoulder. This was connected with the custom of stretching the earlobe. Arelic found in
Lng Ngm showed that people used to wear different pendants on the two ears in terms of
weight and styles. Particularly, there were pendants with bells, or animal-shaped. Some were
made of stone.
Necklaces were often made of cylindrical, oval, or spherical beads. Bracelets had different
sections with a variety of designs: circles, squares, rectangles, spout-shaped, hogbackshaped, etc. There were also designs of bird feathers, or rice ears. These were often made of
yellow and blue stones, brass, glass, or occasionally gems.
Rings were often made of copper and had lovely long bells attached.
Although the jewelry was still simple and made with limited techniques, people at that time
possessed high aesthetic abilities and imagination. They showed great care in beautifying
themselves, while demonstrating their skill and hard work. Men often decorated their bodies
with zigzag and hook-shaped patterns, which was a very popular tattooing custom. Historical
records say that the kings admonished their people to tattoo images of sea monsters on their
bodies so that they would be safe from killer fish under the water. Both men and women
blackened their teeth and chewed betel.
Overview of the Ng - inh - Anterior L
In the later half of the 3rd century B.C, Thc Phn, a leader of the u Vit people from the
highlands, took his troops to invade the country of Vn Lang. This brought about the unification
of the two nations, and then the foundation of the country of u Lc with the capital transferred
from the highlands to the lowland region. This was the period of the Iron Age. The u Lc
people were able to make ploughs and use buffaloes in agriculture. These people still
maintained the customs that existed before the unification of u Vit and Vn Lang such as
wearing short haircuts, tattooing, wearing shirts over the head or buttoned on the left (t
nhim). The legend of M Chu - Trng Thy in which there is a coat made from goose feather
evidenced the popularity of raising birds and the development of clothing at that time.
The u Lc nation was later invaded and ruled by Triu and in addition, there were three
successive periods of rule by the Northern invaders, lasting over one thousand years (207
B.C-939). While unyieldingly struggling to drive out the invaders, our people still put great effort
into developing production methods. There were huge advances in the weaving industry. The

into developing production methods. There were huge advances in the weaving industry. The
raising of silk-worms became more popular and crude cotton fabrics, jute fabrics, silks, and
smooth calico fabrics were made. Even banana tree and bamboo tree fibers were used to
make clothing. The former was named Giao Ch fabric. A type of beautifully embroidered
cotton scarf was called bch dip. In addition, there were many new developments in the
manufacture of gold and silver adornments including rings, bracelets, earrings and brooches.
Adornments such as bracelets and rings were made from precious stones, amber and glass.
Strings of beads were made from the same materials. During the years 479-502, in the period
of Qi rule, silver u mu hats were made, to be paid as tribute to the Northern dynasties.
Archaeologists also have found some types of buckles, which provided evidence that wearing
belts was popular.
After ten centuries under Northern rule, the glorious victory on the BchngRiver led by
General Ng Quyn (938), set an important landmark in our history. He proclaimed himself
Emperor, and laid the foundation for an independent nation. Regretfully, the Ng Dynasty did
not last long because of the early death of Ng Quyn in 944, leaving many unsolved state
affairs. However, Ng Quyn was able to fix civil and military titles, regulations for the imperial
rituals, and especially the colors of mandarins costumes for different official ranks.
Ng Quyns statues, worshipped in some regions, showed some of the distinctions in
terms of clothing. To be more exact, the outer garment of his statue in the HngKnhTemple,
Hi Phng, was adorned with designs, while the other statues did not have designs. Yet, they
both were the same kind of imperial robe, with designs of dragons, circular collar, and broad
sleeves. The bonnet was two-layered, with two outwardly slanted round dragonflys swings.
These details suggested that these statues might have been sculpted some centuries after
the Ng Dynasty. This is because only in the Posterior L Dynasty were the regulations about
designs on imperial robes and types of headgear mentioned. The other possibility is that the
designs and bonnets were long in use, but were improved in terms of design only in the L
Dynasty.
Until the inh Dynasty (968-980), in historical records, clothing was only mentioned in a few
sections. First, in 974 the costumes of soldiers was described as: Soldiers wear flat caps,
with square lateral faces, made of leather, with the four edges closely sewn together and
broadened from top to the brim, and called t phng bnh nh. Armour was also in use.
Then in the sixth Year of Peace (975), inh Tin Hong set the dress codes for civil and
military officials to indicate rank. In 980, in a letter from the Song Dynasty to our court, it was
mentioned that people at that time all wore short haircuts. In addition, it is also said that
hermits often wore yellow caps, and monks wore dark cassocks. For court officials, those who
were allowed to use a gold seal wore violet belts, and blue belts were for those who used a
silver seal.
Under the Anterior L Dynasty (981-1009), King L i Hnh ascended his throne wearing a
royal tunic, and from then on his outer garments were often made with red fabric, and the caps
were adorned with pearls. The permanent imperial soldiers at the court branded on their
foreheads the three words Thin t qun (Soldiers of the Son of God).
The L Dynasty: royal costumes

During the L Dynasty (1009-1225), the capital was transferred from Hoa L to i La
Citadel, later known as Thng Long. In 1054, the official name for the nation was i Vit.
After the long dark time of warfare, the i Vit people were able to enjoy glorious moments
as an independent feudal nation. A comprehensive plan for rebuilding the nation laid a firm
ground for a rapid development of the entire nation and its people.
The King was the head of the royal court, followed by nine ranks of civil and military officials,
as well as specialized governing bodies. The economy expanded in every field. The nation
had enterprises to raise silk-worms and weave silks. The craftsmen could weave different
kinds of brocade, glossy flowered satin, and silks in different colors and elaborate designs.
As seen from the King L Thi T statue in Kin S Pagoda in Ph ng, Tin Sn,
BcNinhProvince, his hat was a kind of bonnet (called phc u hat) from the Tang Dynasty.
This kind of hat had 4 angles, 4 ears, and later had 2 ears to the side, the same as the
bonnet. One different feature was that the top was somewhat higher, and in the middle there
was a dividing line from lower to the higher part, with flaming suns for decoration on the side
parts. The front of the hat also had a naming sun, with blooming flowers on either side. The
hem around the hat was decorated with small knobs which symbolized precious stones.
Particularly, the two ears were like the wings of a bonnet, being short and thick. In general,
the designs tended to follow round and curved lines rather than sharp and square forms. The
imperial robe opened in the middle, with designs of dragons, flowers, and waves. The
sleeves were broad in both length and width. The shoes often had a rising pressed toe, which
resembled the black shoes during the Song Dynasty in China. On the hand of the statue was
an ivory tablet with drooping tassels. Based on the design of the hat, a difference can be
perceived for bonnets of later times, which often had long and narrow wings. This also shows
that this type of clothing appeared quite early. In comparison, the bonnets in the Song Dynasty
were designed with a pointed shape and long, narrow wings. Some other bonnets had short
but wings that fell to the shoulder. In contrast, black gauze hats and bonnets in the Ming
Dynasty closely resembled the hat of King L Thi T in his statue, especially with the wings of
the bonnets. Thus, the sculpture of the King L Thi T at this time might have been influenced
by the costumes of the Ming Dynasty.
In 1029, King L Thi T initiated the design of gold octagonal hats and established codes
of costumes and caps for the dukes, as well as civil and military officials. However, these
rules might not have been strict enough in terms of costume styles and usage. It was written
that most of the L royal officials would carry a fish-embroidered bag, which was more or less
influenced by the apparel styles of the Song Dynasty.
In 1040, the King implemented a policy to use domestic brocade and satin to sew
ceremonial dress instead of using Song fabrics. This showed a determination for the selfstrengthening and self-reliance of our country. King L Thnh Tng also established codes of
dressing for royal officials. When attending a Royal Audience, the court officials had to wear
socks and shoes, a phc u hat, and purple robe, as well as bringing ivory tablets and
leather fastening straps. This was when the custom of wearing the phc u cap and shoes
first began.

The King wore a golden robe, purple trousers and wore his hair in a bun fastened with a
golden brooch. The court officials and aristocrats wore a dark tunic having four flaps, closely
buttoned collar, dark trousers, and wore a bun with an iron brooch. On their heads they wore a
black gauze chuddar and peaked cap. They also wore leather sandals and carried fans of
stork feathers.
The military uniforms were dau mau cap covering the ears, knee-length tunic, neatly sewn
sleeves tightly fitted around the wrist. The whole of the frock was covered with small pieces of
armor plate full of spiral designs, or patterns of multiple large petalled flowers at the chest. In
addition, there were patterns of parallel curved brims or spiral designs below which hung
small bells, drooping fringes, and finally a line of bells. For some other kinds of frocks, the
shoulder straps were adorned with bells, and the two shoulder bands and waistband
decorated with tiger-face designs. The surface of the frock was decorated with prominent
small multi-petalled flowers. The fabric had a tiled or scaled pattern, which might have been
embroidered or woven into the fabric. A waistband made of cloth was tied with the ends
dropping to the front. If a leather waistband was worn, it would be tightly fastened around the
belly to reveal the body muscles. The boots reached up to the knee and were simply
decorated.
Female dancers had a skyward bun, a decorative fringe of hair on the forehead, with
flowers adorning the hair. They wore bracelets, strings of beads, as well as multi-pleated
short skirts. The musicians costumes were quite original. A cap fully covered the hair, with a
high and zigzag-fringed top. The inner shirt was with long sleeves, tight at the wrist. Added to
that, there was a short-sleeved shirt, with vn kin shards. They wore wide embroidered and
fringed strips of cloth around the waist. On their calves were leggings, and covering the feet
were pointed-toe canvas shoes.
Tattooing remained a custom during this period, a common practice for the King and his
soldiers as well. The Imperial Guards tattooed distinctive marks on their chest and legs, as
well as dragon patterns. Similar to the Anterior L Dynasty, they would brand the three words
Thin t qun on the forehead. The armor of military leaders was also decorated with
attached bells, which signaled that they were highly grateful to their benefactors. This was
done in a spirit of national pride and the continuing development of traditional customs.
There is a special statue from this period which shows a very refined dress style. The
Buddha Amitabha statue, sometimes known as Buddhalokanatha statue, in Pht Tch Pagoda
is a breathtakingly beautiful stone sculpture with sophisticated costuming. The ritual robe has
curved, straight, zigzag or drooping fringes which make it full of movement. The robes pleats
rise like the veins of a lotus leaf, closely fitted to the body, and drop either vertically as a spring
stream, or pliantly like waves in the ocean, even expanding horizontally in a gentle way.
Although the statue is made of stone, the above features show that the robe was broad and
made of smooth and delicate fabrics. The inner garment, a kind of tunic has a broad collar
with crossed edges. The sleeves are very wide. The waistband, worn outside the tunic is tied
into the shape of a horizontal Figure 8, with dropping straps.
Costumes of the common people

The general population were restricted in dress and ornamentation. For instance, the
common people were only allowed to tattoo snake designs and floral patterns, such as
shown on the kettledrum. For servants in every household, it was prohibited to brand inkmarks on the belly, chest, and legs, especially dragon shapes such as those of the Imperial
Guard. The people at this time were not allowed to wear gold colored shirts, and the girls were
not allowed to imitate the dress styles of palace maids. Up to this period, black-lacquered
teeth and chewing betel were popular customs. Women wore earrings, tied their hair in a bun,
and adorned flower fringes on the forehead, which recalls the apparel styles of the female
images seen on the dagger and sword handles in the Hng Kings periods.
The Trn Dynasty
As the L Dynasty fell into decadence, the aristocrats who formed the Trn Dynasty (12551400) progressively joined forces and took control. On the coronation day, on each side of the
royal courtyard, stood all the armed Generals-in-Chief of the Kim Ng, V V, V Tip, V Lm,
Phng Quc groups. Trn Th , a high-ranking mandarin, stood on the right, carrying a
sword. L Chiu Hong wore the crown and the royal tunic, sitting on the jade throne,
declaring the royal proclamation to abdicate her throne. After that, she lifted the crown, placed
it on Trn Cnhs head, and gave her royal tunic to him. Trn Cnh complied with the royal
ordinance and then stepped up to the jade throne and declared himself King.
Maintaining the long-standing traditions of the nation, under the Trn Dynasty the i Vit
people with great determination and self-reliance, gloriously defeated the Yuan-Mong invaders
three times. This brought about a comprehensive development for the nation. With reference
to the weaving industry, at this time our people were able to produce cotton and hemp fabrics,
silks, gauze, fluffed and floss silks, chiffon, brocade and satin. The embroidery industry was
also well developed.
Royal costumes
From the beginning, Trn Th restored the centralization of power, along with the
foundation of more specialized bodies. He also established new official titles and dress
codes to distinguish the official rankings in different committees and divisions.
In the eighth Hng Long year, military officials were granted new caps and clothes. The civil
officials wore the black T-letter-shaped cap. The judicial officials wore the old blue flowerpatterned caps (pierced caps with floral patterns, with golden circles on each side). The width
of sleeves of the tunics of civil and military officials ranged about 30-40cm. Smaller sleeves,
about 27cm, were not used. The judicial officials were not allowed dress privileges. Officials
wearing inh-shaped caps had to tie their hair back using a strip of purple bluish-green silk.
Longhaired aristocrats could wear a triu thin cap and those with short hair the bao cn cap.
During this period, the King wore a bnh thin cap (pacifying the world), quyn vn cap
(cloudy), or ph dung cap (changing hibiscus), royal tunic and kim long waistband (gold
dragon). The collar had a brim of a strip of fine white silk, accompanied by a pearl and goldenfringed chuddar. Another kind of cap was the t ng (knitted from thin strips of rattan), inlaid

fringed chuddar. Another kind of cap was the t ng (knitted from thin strips of rattan), inlaid
with jade. On ceremonial occasions, the King wore the giao lnh golden-gauze robe and a cap
with drooping silk tassels. The aristocrats wore the cng thn cap, adorned with golden
designs of bees and butterflies, with varying sizes depending on the official ranks.
In the eight year of Thun Tngs reign, the King imposed a ban on royal officials wearing
broad-sleeved tunics, and narrow-sleeved tunics were allowed instead. The sizes of the
sleeves are not mentioned in historical records. The following year, codes for headgear and
dress for royal officials were formulated. Civil and military officials of the first-rank wore purple
clothing; second-rank, deep red; third-rank, scarlet; fourth-rank, green; fifth, six and seventh
rank, bluish green; eighth and ninth rank, blue. Non-ranking people and the Kings favorite
servants wore white clothing. Court servants wore trousers instead of tunics.
Apart form the tattooing customs, the Trn soldiers branded St Tht on their arms to
show great determination to drive out the Yuan-Mong invaders. These were popular customs
at the beginning of this period.
Some documents state that after the second and third resistance wars against the Yuan
invaders (1281-1288), a kind of headgear named Ma Li hats were put in use. These hats
were made from bamboo splints so that they were very hard and enduring. They originated
from the Ma Li region, which now belongs to the M Vn district, Hng Yn province. This was
because General Trn Khnh D, who defended the VnnPass (in present day Qung
Ninh) realized that our soldiers costumes and the invaders costumes were relatively similar.
Thus, he commanded his soldiers to wear Ma Li hats so that when going into battle, they
would not be mistaken. This highlights that fact that there was once no consistency in terms of
soldiers costumes.
Male singers and dancers wore brocade trousers, the torso uncovered and entertained
people at royal parties. The female dancers and musicians wore tightly fitting shirts with
narrow sleeves. There were also broad sleeves, waistbands over the shirt flap tied in the
shape of 8. They also wore long and wide dresses with strips of silk around the waist, the
loose straps extending to the knees and resembling a lovely spreading skirt. This recalls the
dress styles of the ancient Vietnamese boys and girls. Dresses were made of feathers or
leaves in the festivals of the Hng Kings period. The clowns wore brocade or embroidered
shirts. Till the end of the Trn Dynasty, adornments were still diverse and included bracelets,
and strings of beads made of tortoise-shell, bone and horn, with little use of gold and silver.
Costumes of the common people
For the common people, there was a ban on white clothing, and anyone found wearing
white would be punished. Exceptions, however, applied to women. This was probably
because white clothing was only for royal servants to wear so as to avoid confusions. Clothing
in such colors as blue, red, yellow, purple was also banned. The King also made a royal
decree to prohibit the dress style of the Northern people.
Women often wore a black four-panel shirt, with a 13cm-wide white cloth sewn to the collar
inside. They often had a haircut that was 10cm in length. This lock of hair would then be tied
high up, and the tail was curved and tied again in the shape of an ink-pen. With this hairstyle,

high up, and the tail was curved and tied again in the shape of an ink-pen. With this hairstyle,
there were usually no sideburns, no buns, or no earrings as adornments. Rich people
adorned their hair with a tortoise-shell brooch, while others used brooches of bone or horn.
They did not use cosmetics, or jewelry made of precious stones and gold.
Men were often naked from the waist up, or wore a black four-panel shirt with a chiffon collar.
Black clothing was widespread. Most of them, including children, shaved their head since it
was said in the Buddhist principles that this was the spirit of a nation: all for soldiers. Some
common people wore a silk chuddar. When at home, they used no headgear. However, when
welcoming guests and going out, they used a chuddar. All of them went barefoot. Some wore
leather sandals, but these had to be taken off when entering the royal court.
Black-lacquered teeth and chewing betel were still popular customs. In pagodas, monks
often wore a kind of cassock called lc th. Tattooing was particularly popular and attained
artistic standards. There were even professional tattooists.
The H Dynasty
In 1400, H Qu Ly usurped the throne of the Trn Dynasty. He proclaimed himself Emperor,
wearing a robe of the color of sweet sedge. He changed the countrys name to i Ngu. Then
during H Hn Thngs reign, a royal proclamation banned officials from wearing shoes,
except those made of hemp. Under the old regulations, officials above the sixth rank were
allowed to put on shoes. The royal servants had to brand different images on the forehead for
easy recognition. The royal officials servants branded the image of flaming gems (gems with
sparkling light like that of a flame). Princess servants branded the image of the duong
duong tree. Emperors servants branded a red earring. Servants of first and second rank
officials branded a black earring. Servants of third-rank officials and below branded two black
earrings. From 1403 onwards, it was compulsory for soldiers in each administrative division
to brand their arms with the division name for identification.
During the period of the H Dynasty, army generals and soldiers usually wore leather armor
when going to the battlefield. Once in the war with the Chim Thnh people, the soldiers had
to bake the leather armor to eat because there was no food left.
In August, H Hn Thng commanded his officials to set up an altar in n Sn in a ritual
ceremony for the Giao. The King sat on the Vn Long palanquin. The imperial concubines,
mandarins wives and royal officials followed in order. The womens headgear and dress style
had to be that of the next lower to their husbands. Those of a dignified family did not have to
follow this rule.
The struggle against assimilation
In 1406, the Ming Dynasty in China sent an army to invade our country. It was not until 1414
that they established their rule. During the following period of colonization (1414-1427), the
Ming made our country into a province named Giao Ch. They aimed to put our country under
their supreme control and assimilate our customs, traditions, and dress codes to Chinese
ways. The Ming Dynasty proclaimed, Traditions are concerned with ruling of faith. Thus, they
announced that strictly within a period of one month, there had to be clear distinctions of dress

announced that strictly within a period of one month, there had to be clear distinctions of dress
among officials, curators, hereditary mandarins, headmen, soldiers, and women, and these
had to follow the temporary codes of dressing. Anyone breaking this rule would be severely
punished. Royal officials and students had to wear edged caps, a long panel tunic with
circular collar, and wear laced boots. For the former, garments should be made of silk. For the
latter, shirts should be in blue. Wives of the mandarins should also follow the standardized
dress codes. Those with a husband who was a commoner should wear a loose tunic, long
dress, with a bun on the head, black chuddar, and hair brooch and earrings. The shoes were
made of canvas or leather. There was a ban on hair cutting or revealing the legs. Also, use of
black, gold, and purple was prohibited. Previously, men often shaved their heads, and women
wore their hair short. However, the new regulations stipulated that men and women are not
allowed to cut their hair. Females had to wear a short tunic and long trousers, following the
Northern traditions. The common people could still wear traditional costume. The guerilla
troops wore t phng bnh nh cap, which had been in long use, since the inh Dynasty,
and Anterior L Dynasty.
The L-Mc-Trnh-Nguyn-Ty Sn Dynasties
Legend has it that in the period before the Lam Sn guerilla war, L Li was a village
notable but still wore short dark shirt to do the formwork and in other daily activities as a
normal farmer. When he ascended the throne as King L Thi T, he named the country i
Vit. The name of the capital, Thng Long, was changed to ng , and then ng Kinh. The
L Dynasty adopted Confucianism as a mainstream ideology to reinforce the golden rule and
gem measure feudal system. The L Dynasty (1428-1527) reigned for 99 years before it was
overthrown. After that came the reign of the Mc Dynasty for 65 years. Later the throne again
fell to the L (1533-1788). The period when our country had a L kings and Trnh Lords in the
North, and Nguyn Lords in the South lasted until the Ty Sn guerilla war won a victory, with
the new capital city in Ph Xun (Hu). During this period, social norms and human
relationships were defined by strict rules, including the dress codes which were meticulously
defined.
Costumes of kings and aristocrats
From 1434 onwards, under the reign of L Thi Tng, in such big ceremonies as sacrifices
to Gods, the worship of deceased Kings, accession to the throne, ceremonies for the Deities,
and the Lunar New Year celebrations, the King wore the royal tunic and a crown on his head.
However, at a normal royal audience, held on the 1 st or 15th day of the lunar month, he only
wore a golden robe and xung thin cap. Later, in significant ceremonies, the King also wore a
golden robe, xung thin cap, and waistband made of precious stones. At a normal audience,
the King wore a tam sn cap and a dark blue robe. On death anniversaries of former kings, he
only wore the bnh nh cap, and thanh ct robe.
In terms of the Kings costumes under the Mc Dynasty, there is not much information found
in the old documents. However, dress codes and headgear of this time can be traced back
with reference to the statues.
In big ceremonies, a Trnh Lord wore a purple imperial robe, xung thin cap, and waistband

In big ceremonies, a Trnh Lord wore a purple imperial robe, xung thin cap, and waistband
made of precious stones. At normal ceremonies such as municipal administration, royal
parties and visits, he wore tam sn cap with purple robe. When visiting the Knh Thin
Pavilion, or attending birthday ceremonies at the Temple of the Ancestors, the King would
wear bnh nh cap, thanh ct robe in the color of the light-of-the-flame. At the anniversary of
recent deaths, he would wear bnh nh cap, and a dark robe.
The Trnh Lords costumes did not much differ from that of the L Kings, except for the
colors (the former purple, and the latter golden). With regards to the Kings descendants, the
Crown Prince wore a blue tunic and a bonnet. For the Lords descendants, Lords Crown
Prince wore a red tunic, a bonnet with gold-inlaid wings, a robe with unicorn design
embroidered with golden threads, a waistband made of precious stones and gold. When at
the Lords audience, he wore a thanh ct tunic with a string of pearls, a black gauze cap with
prominent dark threads sewn on.
Although proclaiming themselves Lords, the Nguyn family in the South still held the title
Great Tutors of the Princes of the L Dynasty.
When Nguyn Phc Khot proclaimed himself King, the customs of clothing changed.
Regulations on costumes and their designs were established, all based on the book Tam Ti
Hi. This was to make a distinctive difference with Bc H (in North Vietnam), hoping to
maintain the ruling power over the existing land and people.
There are also few documented papers on the Ty Sn costumes. In 1775, Nguyn Nhc
was awarded the first laureate in national examination; Nguyn Hu was given a military cap
and coat. On December 22nd, 1788, on a ceremonial day to inform God about his accession
to the throne, Nguyn Hu wore the royal tunic and a crown which he himself designed. On
that day, Quang Trung issued a royal decree highlighting five important points. One of those
was concerned with costumes: Costumes of the people in Nam H, Bc H still remained
the same. Only the costumes of the royal officials will be changed. By mentioning the
common peoples costumes in the royal decree, as well as respecting their traditional
costumes, Quang Trung showed a high awareness of national and cultural identity.
Legend has it that when going to the battlefield, Nguyn Hu often wound a red turban round
his head, wore armor and rode an elephant. On January 30th, 1789 (5th Lunar January of the
year of K Du), the date which marked the complete driving out of Qing invaders from our
country, liberating Thng Long capital, Quang Trungs armor was discolored with the black
smoke of the guns and bombs.
Costumes of officials and soldiers
After a years reign, from 1429 onwards, King L Thi T paid great attention to costumes of
officials and soldiers. However, because of the rundown state of the country after war, there
were only a few dress codes in use. For example, red silk dress was for military mandarins.
Under the reign of L Thi Tng, district education officers at Quc T Gim (imperial
training school for mandarins) and district teachers other provinces, who previously wore thi
c cap, were allowed to wear the cao sn cap. Sons and daughters of high officials, as well as

c cap, were allowed to wear the cao sn cap. Sons and daughters of high officials, as well as
civil and military officials were prohibited from wearing black or yellow clothing, but an
exception applied to yellowish green. In terms of soldiers dress codes, leather caps came
into being, which were still in use three hundred years later during Ty Sn resistance period.
Under King L Thnh Tngs reign, colors for the clothing of military mandarins were
established. Mandarins from the highest rank to the third rank wore pink garments, from fourth
to fifth, green. The rest wore green clothing. According to the rules, only trustworthy soldiers
were allowed to wear the thy ma hats and red-painted hats.
Under the reign of the L Dynasty, dress styles of the doctors were set as follows: the three
first candidates (first doctoral candidate, second doctoral candidate, and third doctoral
candidate of the first rank) and second-rank doctors were allowed to wear the two-winged
phc u cap, adorned with brass tam sn banyan leaves. Doctors sharing the same title
wore phc u cap without wings but having straps, which were then removed. Their
waistbands were made of buffaloes horns, covered with dark blue silk and brass. The tunics
were all made of gauze. The three first candidates waistbands were all made of tc hng
wood, covered with dark blue silk, inlaid with silver. Waistbands of higher-ranking candidates
were inlaid with much more silver. The court dress was made of black satin.
Under the Hng cs reign, loyal soldiers from five districts would wear purple caps, while
old soldiers would wear black caps.
The royal court also established dress codes for welcoming the Ming envoys. The dukes,
marquis, counts, prince consorts and civil officials had to wear a tunic with green hemmed,
silken, gauze collar. The fringe of the tunic should be about 3.3cm away from the ground. The
sleeves should be 40cm. Negotiating officials had to wear imperial clothes, which had a fringe
of 30cm higher from the ground, with narrow sleeves. These people all had to wear a coat with
design, put on shoes, use light colored clothing instead of old and worn garments.
Under L Hin Tngs reign, a seasonal dress code was established. From October
onwards, clothes made of hemp fiber and fine silk should be worn. After February, gauze
clothing was decreed.
After the restoration, King L acceded the throne and celebrated a big ceremony to sacrifice
to Heaven and Earth. He wore a xung thin cap and black court robe. Students of the State
College, young students, pupils, high school graduates, landowner and officials all used fine
silks. In particular, the headgear and clothes of the inner royal palace guards were made of
hemp-silk, which was one of our nations treasured hand-woven products. This kind of
product came in red and blue, and was once offered as gifts to the Chinese envoys. Some
kinds of headgear and clothes made for guards outside the royal palace were produced using
red dyed buffalo skin.
Under L Thn Tngs reign, a new dress code set some variations in size and width for
each class. Civil officials from the Religious Council up, as well as military officials from
dukes upward, wore the thanh ct tunic. Others were not allowed to wear this clothing. Under
L Chn Tngs reign, clearer rules were made for the dress code of royal family members
including children, as well as the royal officials in the Kings audience. They all had to wear a
gauze cap when meeting with the monarch.

Under Le Huyn Tngs reign, a religious ceremony in honor of the sky and the earth was
organized in the southern quarter of the Thng Long Citadel. Participating in this ceremony
were officials and soldiers, as well as imperial guards inside the royal palace such as Th
Kiu, Th Ni, Kim Ng, Cm Y, etc. They all wore red caps, a thanh ct tunic with red edging
and white fringes, and held flags and imperial equipage. Twenty royal guards, all holding a
copper mace; wore red hats and blue-brocaded shirts with elephant design. The King wore a
xung thin cap, golden court robe, and gem-inlaid waistband. The Lord also wore a xung thin
cap, purple court robe, and gem-inlaid waistband. The Royal Masters of Ceremonies wore a
bonnet with golden wings, donning a purple royal robe embroidered with unicorn design,
gold-covered waistband with a medal made of precious stones.
Under Le D Tngs reign, there was a regulation on making headgear and clothing from
thanh ct cloth. This kind of cloth and T-letter-shaped caps were commonly used by every
class. However, up to this period, there were restrictions on the size of clothing to distinguish
different social ranks.
In 1720, there was another change in the rules of dress styles. Royal family members had
to wear Chinese gauze garments and a horsehair cap in spring and summer. In the autumn
and winter, clothes were made of Chinese satin in the color of aloe wood with caps of black
satin. Costumes of civil and military mandarins from the highest to the third rank also varied
according to seasons: black Chinese gauze in spring and summer, black Chinese satin in
autumn and winter. Civil officials used a double-layered cap, while military officials used a
single-layered cap. Fourth-rank officials wore clothes made of gauze. Court servants wore a
bnh nh cap with a hexagonal shape. When attending ceremonial occasions in an official
capacity, civil and military officials as well as court servants had to wear thanh ct garments
and a black-gauze cap.
Until 1781, soldiers costumes in different districts had their own style, with distinctive
features.
Concerning the Ty Sn guerilla troop costumes, they were known to wrap a red turban and
remain bare chested in the battles with Nguyn Lord forces. On the coronation day of Nguyn
Hu, soldiers wore a red cap, brocade shirts while gathering around the altar for sacrificing to
the God. Towards the middle of the year 1788, the Ty Sn soldiers under the command of
King Nguyn Nhc in Quy Nhn were seen wearing dark blue woolen clothes, leather or
painted paper caps on which there were steel letter carvings as those on the sword handles
or scabbards.
Costumes of the common people
To distinguish between social ranks and prevent encroaching of influence, the royal court
decreed a ban on common people wearing shoes, clothing of yellow, or use dragon-carved or
phoenixcarved items. The weaving of the mt cap was also prohibited because it was said
that people stole royal horses hair to make these caps. Common people were also not
allowed to wear thy ma hats and red-painted hats, which were made only for the imperial
guards. The making and selling of white items were also highly restricted. The royal court

guards. The making and selling of white items were also highly restricted. The royal court
announced that head shaving was allowed only among monks. The common people (and
officials as well) were not allowed to make caps of precious stones or glass.
It was stipulated that the peoples sleeves should be 30cm, which was narrower than the
officials sleeves. The people at the border were not allowed to dress in the Northern styles.
Female laborers often wore a kind of bra cut with a collar and fastened at the back but
leaving the arms and shoulders bare. They often wore short skirts tied with a waistband with
the loose ends hanging in front. It was also common for women to wrap a fine silk turban
round their hair. It was considered a mark of respect to loosen the hair when meeting people
of higher rank.
There was nothing notable in male costumes. Men worked bare chested and wore a
loincloth. Wearing bun was still a popular hairstyle.
Under the L Dynasty, monks clothes were loose and comfortable. The royal court also
established a dressing code for monks in religious ceremonies: superior Buddhist monks
wore green clothing, red frock and cap. First rank and second rank monks wore green
clothing, green frock and cap. People with certificates for Buddhist monks, nuns, and hermits
wore black clothes, blue frock and cap. For normal occasions, monks wore green frocks. First
and second rank monks wore black clothing, while others wore dark gray clothing. In terms of
the statues of Deities, there were also certain rules for the garments, except for the very high
Gods.
Under the L Dynasty, some new kinds of headgear were introduced. Men and women in
the countryside wore small caps. There was also a lotus leaf cap for both adults and
children. The royal and commoner costumes of this period were not only described in
historical materials, but could also be seen from statues and pictures of this time.
The Nguyn Dynasty and French colonial rule
The Nguyn Dynasty (1802-1945), the last feudal dynasty, was increasingly dependent on
the French colonial power. In the beginning, the dress codes for Kings and royal officials were
meticulously established as in former dynasties and put under control of the Ministry of Rites.
Royal costumes
King Gia Long acceded the throne in 1802. His successors were Minh Mng, Thiu Tr, T
c, in a line of 13 successions, the last being Bo i. Dress codes of the Kings and his
royal family members, as well as the costumes of the royal officials on different occasions had
to follow these rules set out below.
For the ceremony in honor of the sky and the earth, the King wore a crown of cylindrical
shape, woven from brass threads and fitted to the Kings head, covered by black silk outside
and lined with red silk inside, with attached calligraphy in gold reading Long-lived or Heaven
and Earth. The imperial robe was made of shiny blue gauze, with green satin circular collar,
lined with white silk inside. The border of the robe was woven with patterns of the sun, moon,

lined with white silk inside. The border of the robe was woven with patterns of the sun, moon,
stars, clouds, mountains, and dragons. The panel was woven with dragons, clouds, and
waves. On the sleeves were the designs of crouching dragons. Under the robe there was
another unlined white garment, with the sleeve decorated with woven dragons and clouds.
The outer coat was made of golden gauze, lined with brocade, embroidered with a flame
design, rice dots, a shape and hammer head shape. Attached to this coat were gem
ornaments, musical stones, mica, coral, and tortoise-shell. This produced sound in
movement. The brooches were often made of gems, inlaid with pearl dragon designs, while
the waistband was made of leather and covered with golden silk. A square piece of white
precious stone was attached in the middle and surrounded by 6 white diamond-shaped
gems, 392 beads of gold-covered precious stones, with 6 buttonholes to attach to the robe.
Fine black silk covered the shoes which were also lined with red silk. The shoes were
decorated with dragons and clouds and decorated with gems and diamonds.
When giving a grand audience, the King wore a cap embroidered with 9 dragons ascending
into the sky, with 31 smaller gold dragon shapes attached, 3 woven designs of burning
flames. The cap was adorned with gems, diamonds, and 140 pearls. The eyes of the dragons
were inlaid with small pearls.
The imperial robe was made of golden gauze and fine silk, woven with patterns of big and
small dragons, clouds, waves, and 4 ideograms meaning thousand blessings and long life.
The robe was lined with thick gauze with floral embroidery. The collar was made of fine white
silk, with a design of dragons, naming pomegranates, and corals made of smaller gems. The
two sleeves were made of dark blue fine silk, with the 4-ideogram inscription and a 3-dragon
design.
There was a coat of thin white gauze to cover the robe, decorated with red floral designs,
woven in the shape of a curled up dragon, waves, antique desk (for flower pot decorations),
eight precious items (such as books, swords, flutes, wine gourds, poem bags, etc.) The
waistband was of gold, patterned in 18 stripes in square or shield shape, made of rhino horn
and covered with gold and inlaid with 92 pearl beads. The shoes were black, embroidered
with designs of dragons, clouds, waves, and flowers, and lined with red silk inside. Socks
were worn, the upper part dark blue, the lower embroidered with dragons, clouds, waves,
palindrome of gold lame patterns.
The Kings costume at a normal Kings audience was simpler. He wore a 9-dragon cap,
golden-gauze court robe on which there were patterns of curled up dragons, eight precious
items, waves. The dragons eyes were inlaid with black amber, and the golden collar woven
with dragon and cloud designs. The two sleeves had strings of precious stones. The same
coat, shoes and socks were worn as on the great Kings audience. In other religious
ceremonies in spring and autumn, the King would wear caps that were black gauze, attached
with a silver flower design, inlaid with a white bead of crystal. The outer garment was a thin
snow-white gauze woven with dragons, clouds, and wave patterns. It could also be made from
azure gauze, woven with dragon and cloud patterns and lined with fine silk, with 12 deep blue
peony designs.
The coat was thin gauze with small floral designs which came in deep blue, green, or azure.

The coat was thin gauze with small floral designs which came in deep blue, green, or azure.
The shoes were black and lined with dark blue silk while the socks dark blue, the under part
white.
The Queens costumes were more modest in comparison with the Kings. She wore a 9
phoenix cap, made from horsehair. On the front there was a pattern of 9 golden dragons, 9
golden phoenix, and 9 pieces of silver bn khoan. She used a hairpin adorned with clouds
and flowers patterns, 1 piece with mountain designs, 12 floral designs, butterflies and many
flower strips to decorate the hair. On the back was a gold phoenix patterns, 4 silver brooches
and straps of 198 pearls attached, 231 beads of crystal attached to the cap. The turban was
made of azure fine silk, brimmed with golden silk and 4 golden rings, 4 threads of silk.
The golden gauze court robe, embroidered with the pattern of round flowers with two figures
of phoenix inside (called hoa on phng), had a woven pattern of waves flowing downward.
The collar was made of white fine silk, the bra made of tru, with floral and phoenix designs.
Her coat was snow white fine silk, woven with golden hoa on phng and lined with white
silk, a white silk strip of cloth being fastened to the waist. The waistband was gauze and
covered with golden fine silk, adorned with 18 square golden pieces, with a glass medal
inlaid with gold flowers and gold buckles. Shoes of red silk were decorated with a green
phoenix. Socks were made of white shiny fine silk.
Costumes of the common people
In the fifth year of King Gia Longs reign (1806), a dress code of black clothing was
established for the common people. The turban should be black, garments with black
crossed collar, and black shoes and socks. No more special jewelry was allowed.
In 1838, King Minh Mng implemented a royal decree: servants of the upper class or in
officials palaces could only wear the clothes of common people, but not luxurious clothes.
Musicians and singers were permitted to wear caps with designs of serpent-like-monsters
and flowers. The robes could come in red or colorful designs with clouds and fighting dragon
images, but not dragon-patterned cap or golden court robe. Anyone found breaking the rules,
whether district governance officer, communal authority, or landlord, all had to be punished
according to various regulations (beaten with hundreds of whips, fettered and humiliated in
front of the populace).
From the eighth year of King Minh Mngs reign (1827) until the eighteenth year (1837), there
were 4 changes in dress codes for people from Qung Bnh to the South.
Costumes of women (North, Central region and South Vietnam)
Everyday costumes
During the Nguyn dynasty controlled by the French, women of the three main regions in
Vietnam often wore short shirts (called o cnh) as casual clothes. These short shirts were
made of brown gin fabric and it had an unbuttoned round neck, thin borders and open
panels. The inner bra was made of silk, yellow, tawny or light brown colored fabric. The bra
under the garment was a square of cloth that was diagonally wrapped over the breasts of the

under the garment was a square of cloth that was diagonally wrapped over the breasts of the
wearer. The neckline of the bra was round - known as the c xy bra - or in the shape of V
letter - known as the slit necked or swallow bra. The neck slit could be shallow or deep. The
pointed corner of the V-shaped neck was stitched with three raised bird leg-shaped lines for
ornament and to make the neck stronger. The two laces attached to the two sides were tied at
the back. For some bras, the laces could be two triangles of cloth that covered the back and
fastened at the front. A bra of this type left the arms exposed but covered the chest, the belly
and a part of the back so that it was not necessary to wear an outer garment. The skirt, which
was called mushroom in some North Central region areas, typically fell to the tibia. The
women rolled up the skirt and knotted it at the knees when working in the fields. They often
wound a colored belt, called bao rut tng once or twice around the waist and sometimes
used two different colored belts. While working, the wearer inserted one end of the belt into the
waistband. In winter, countrywomen often wore an extra outer o cnh or short-sleeved shirt
made of coarse fabric. The shirt was held in place with a tie around the belly. The palm-leaf
poncho was used as a raincoat or a cloak that protected the wearer in cold or hot weather.
The four-panel unbuttoned tunic had two front panels of equal length that hang freely. The
two panels could be tied together, or joined with the two back pieces and then tied together
into a knot. Women usually had to wear ym c xy under tunics.
In addition, they used five-panel tunics with the outer, large flap on the left side that is twice
as broad as the inner flap on the right; the belt keeps the flaps from hanging too low. In order
to be more flexible while working, the wearer often rolled up the sleeves and pulled the panels
and tie aside.
The women typically grew their hair long and wore headscarves. In winter, the women in the
North and the North Central region are wore dark colored square headscarves.
The most common hat was one made from the fan palm, very tough to and able to resist
sunny and rainy weather. There were also nh thn hats which were short with a flat top and
khua inside. There were also the so-called mangosteen hat for herdsmen, in the shape of a
half mangosteen, also with a khua inside; pan-hollow hats, which were shallower than
mangosteen hats; and elephant leg hats, which were very deep and in the shape of an
elephants leg.
Women in the South and South Central region favored black for most of the clothing. The o
cnh shirt had buttons down the front and had no pockets. The rear panel fell over the
buttocks. They wore short shirts at home. When they went to the market or worked in the field,
they wore five-panel buttoned tunics. The poor wore fabric tunics, often with some patches of
different colors. They wore trousers instead of skirts. They rolled their hair up and wore it in a
bun. Women in the South wore bright colored or checked headscarves to shelter from the sun.
In cold weather, women in the South Central region often wore wide square headscarves.
While the women in the South favored black, the women in the North preferred brown.
Climate and working style of each particular region influenced fashion in terms of color and
style. Women were always concerned with modifying their everyday clothes so that they felt
more comfortable and looked more attractive.

City-dwellers costumes
During festivals or on New Years Day, city women typically wore traditional garments with
designs and colors close to everyday life. Women in the North (Kinh Bc) characteristically
wore a three-dress suit on holidays in spring. The outermost garment was a five-panel dress
made of dark, brown or tam giang colored gauze. The two inner dresses were bright yellow,
lotus pink, lemon yellow or blue. The neck was round, the dress panels were straight and the
sleeves were tight with small slits on the wristband to make it easy for the arms to go through:
They wore flat palm hats with fringes (called nn quai thao, nn thng or nn ba tm), which
were circular with the rim being 10-12 centimeters wide. Besides fine clothes and hats, they
wore a set of silver chains including a silver tube of lime and a small knife with the handle
made of horn to cut betel nuts and prepare betel quid. There was also an ear-pick, tweezers,
some keys and a small peach-shaped box to keep tobacco. They wore shoes made of
buffalo-skin or black wooden shoes which had curved toes and straps made of leather or
rattan; their shoes had one or two straps.
In the North, fashionable women often wore long dresses that extended to the ankle and o
cnh made of white fabric or silk. The bra was white, or yellow silk. The belt was made of
colored silk. While going out or welcoming guests, they always wore an outer tunic. In hot
weather, they wore four-panel dresses, the two front panels allowed to hang naturally. The
flaps could also be tied at the front or at the back. In winter, they could wear two or three
dresses at the same time, called the three-dress suit. They wrapped crepe headscarves
around their heads, exposing a small strand at the nape of the neck. They wore nn ba tm
and curved toed footwear. In addition, there were two-layered shirts, the inner layer and the
outer layer of different colors; o mn (wadded parka) which had an extra middle layer made
of coarse fabric; short padded cotton shirts; long padded cotton shirt stitched in chessman,
sieve eye, custard-apple pip or pomegranate seed design.
On festival days, they wore a blue, pink or day lily colored dress made of Ty H silk,
buttoned under the arm. They wrapped long dress made of La C dark colored gauze outside,
which matched well with the inner dresses. They wore skirts or trousers made of black Bi
silk. The belt was blue or violet and was tied in a knot on the front panel. They also wore vn
hi, a kind of soft footwear. They had yellow beads, the rich wearing many strands. They wore
gold or jade bracelets or gold xuyn which is a flattened bracelet, the two ends not being
joined together so that it could be loosened to let the arm go through and then tightened to fit
the arm. Shiny black teeth and betel red lips were considered a trait of female beauty. The
women in the Central region wore five-panel tunics with high collars. Senior women wore dark
colored garments, while young ladies preferred bright colors such as blue or white. Violet was
the most popular color in Hu. The women in the Central region also wore three-dress suits
like the women in the North but their dresses were tightly buttoned. The collar of the inner
dress was higher than the collar of the outer dress so that the three collars of different colors
were exposed. The dresses were slit on the sides at the lower part and thus, the three panels
of three different dresses were still visible. They wore white trousers. The two sides of the
waistband were folded three times and each fold was about one centimeter wide, making the
lower part of the trousers flare outward. They rarely wore black trousers. Senior women often

lower part of the trousers flare outward. They rarely wore black trousers. Senior women often
combed their long hair up and twisted it into a bun at the back of the head. Young women often
tied their hair at the back, or let it loose on the shoulder.
Women in the region lying between the North and the Center typically wore thng hats. It
was called a thng hat because it was native to Vit Yn Thng village, c Th District, H
Ty Province. The shape and design of the thng hat was similar to the nn ba tm in the
North. It was 70 centimeters in diameter. Thng hats worn on holidays or at festivals had
particularly sophisticated straps.
Women in the South wore white b ba shirts. They wore tunics covering the black silk
trousers. Rich women wore many tunics. The innermost tunic was the longest and the outer
tunics were shorter so that the colors of different dresses were all exposed. They tied their hair
in a bun at the back with a gold brooch, or two small curved combs securing the hair on the
two sides of the bun. Yellow beads were wound several times around the neck and allowed to
hang down to the chest. They also wore a kind of armpit necklace that was wound over the
neck passing through the armpit. They wore ng wooden shoes with wooden soles. Some
people wore vn hi or leather shoes. They often carried umbrellas, the handles of which
were carved, inlayed with silver or nacre. They wore c hats with flat tops, small diameter and
thick edges.
In the early years of the 20th century, country costumes of the three main Vietnamese
regions still retained many of the tradition features, but costumes of women in the city were
subject to many changes. Women typically wore long dresses with round collars which were
one centimeter high. The sleeves narrowed to the wrist. The wristband had a three-centimeter
slit. When worn, the slit was closed with a press-stud to fit the wrist. The hem of the dress was
10-20 centimeter above the ground. Si Gn womens dress panel was often shorter. The
dress was buttoned under the arm. The collar could be undone and thus, it was called open
collar. However, women in Qung Tr, Tha Thin, HuCity and the South typically buttoned
their collars tightly.
Women in Hanoi gradually developed the practice of wearing black trousers made of silk,
raw silk or satin, or white trousers made of silk or flax like women in the South. Women in the
North characteristically wrapped black velvet headscarves, exposing a small strand like the tail
of a cock.
Women in the Central region wore their hair in a bun on the top, at the back, or at the nape of
the neck. Women in Qung Tr, Tha Thin, Hu often parted their hair in the middle and
rolled their hair without headscarves.
Women in the South wore their hair in a bun nearly up to the top or at the back of the head,
but not down at the nape of the neck. A strand of the hair hung down from the bun like the tail
of a cock. Some of the women flattened the strand in the shape of a visor covering the nape of
the neck. The bun was secured with a brooch of porcupine quill, bone, ivory, tortoise shell and
gold. The hair was regularly combed and rubbed with coconut oil to be strong and shiny.
Young ladies grew their hair long, arranged their hair with a fringe on the forehead secured
with a comb. The long hair was loose on the shoulder, or was tied neatly at the back. Gold
necklaces were often worn which were wound several times around the neck, or hung down at

necklaces were often worn which were wound several times around the neck, or hung down at
the chest. They also favored armpit necklaces which had a gold coin in the middle.
The women in Qung Tr, Tha Thin, Hu wore gold king, a kind of necklace that is hard,
cylindrical and one centimeter thick, plain or carved. They also wore wristlets.
Due to the policy of the colonial French, a tide of Western influences swept into Vietnam,
radically influencing the tastes of the bourgeois class, middle class and the youngsters who
preferred new movements such as New Life, Cheering up, Youthfulness and so on.
In early 1930s, fashionable attire for women in Hanoi and Saigon was long dresses of new
design. The traditional five-panel dress was developed with tighter bodice. The front body and
the rear body of the dress were of one piece of cloth instead of two pieces. The gown length
was shortened. The modern long dress was made of different fabrics and colors. In line with
these changes, the painter Ct Tng studied and introduced a new style of long dress called
Le Mur (in French, meaning wall; the painters name, Tng, means wall in English). The
dress had puff sleeves with stiff cuff, lotus sleeves or elastic sleeves. The round neck could be
slit down to the chest and bordered with laces. It could also be in the shape of a lotus leaf. The
wavy hem was attached with a narrow strip of colored cloth or laces. Many features of the Le
Mur dress were borrowed from contemporary dresses of Western women.
Apart from Ct Tng, the painter L Ph also made a contribution to the evolvement of the
traditional long dress and a new style of long dress named after him was produced. The L
Ph dress adopted small changes. For instance, the bodice was tighter and the wavy dress
panels were longer and did not expose the waist at the side.
Fashionable women at that time had their hair permed, wore high heeled shoes and white
pants. They were often dressed in long dresses when they received guests, went out, went to
work, went to school or festivals. Long dresses for summer were made of lightweight fabrics
in bright colors and with small flowery designs. In winter, they wore velvet, wool or felt long
dresses or they could wear two long dresses to keep warm. Elderly women wore paddedcotton long dresses made from two layers; the outer layer was made of velvet, satin or flowery
brocade. They could also wear a short padded-cotton shirt outside the normal long dress. The
short padded-cotton shirt had no buttons and it was fastened with a narrow waistband. They
could also wear woolen shirts under or over long dresses in winter. The woolen shirt was
sleeveless or had long sleeves; its length reached the waist; its hem was adjustable; the neck
was V shaped; it had buttons down from the chest; the collar had one or two buttons. They
could wear jackets with stiff collars, back panels cut on the bias and wavy hems. They
wrapped woolen shawls, embroidered silk scarves, flowery scarves or crocheted scarves
around the shoulders.
The women folded their long hair into a long piece of black cloth and wound it around the
head. They wore red lipstick and put pink powder on their cheeks. Fashionable women had
their eyebrows plucked and they wore eyeliner to make the eyebrows look long, sharp and
attractively arched.
Northern women of the middle class in the cities, or those in the suburbs typically wore o
cnh in white or brown, with close or open panels and with a round neck, heart-shaped neck,
square neck or spoon-shaped neck. The light brown four-panel long dress had two panels

square neck or spoon-shaped neck. The light brown four-panel long dress had two panels
tied with a knot in front, or at the back. Another popular attire was a dress with many patches of
different colors on the back, shoulders, sleeves, front and rear panels. Patches of different
colors were arranged alternately. The idea for the dress was developed from the idea of
attached patches to torn sections of a garment, making the color of the garment variegated.
Clothes with patches later became fashionable. The tailor intentionally attached patches of
different colors, not only brown but also deep red or bright red, to make the garment more
attractive.
Mens costumes (North, Central region and South Vietnam)
Everyday costumes
During this period, the costumes of men throughout the country were nearly the same.
When at work, men in the North and the Central region were often dressed in brown garments
made of ng Lm cloth. They wore a o cnh with four panels and buttons down the front or
one with five panels and buttons under the arm. The collar was round and high. There was a
lining covering the inside surface on the shoulders, parts of the back and the chest to make
the garment more durable when the wearer carried heavy things on his shoulders. The lining
was called lotus leaf. The mens hem and the wristband were bigger than the womens. Two
pockets were attached to the front.
Mens hair was as long as womens and they also wore their hair in a bun on the top of the
head. Laborers often walked barefoot. When they had to wash their feet or go out on business,
they wore wooden shoes with one horizontal strap or two slanting straps. The elderly wore
curved shoes.
In the South, the men typically wore black loose-fitting garments. The four-panel shirt had
high collar, buttons down the front and loose sleeves. They also wore baggy pants with
overturned belt like the men in the North. The senior men favored white shirts and black pants.
Southern men characteristically wrapped ox-head turbans. The senior men wore red ox-head
turbans, the middle-aged, white. Those who did not wear their hair in a bun wrapped blue
striped headscarves.
In hot weather, most of the men were bare to the waist. However, they still wore a fabric belt
around the waist. In the city, rickshaw drivers wore a stained white shirt under an undone fourpanel o cnh with wide borders, white hem, wide collar and wide cuff (the four-panel o cnh
shirt was offered by the boss to rickshaw drivers, together with the rickshaw). However, in
many cases, rickshaw drivers wore whatever they could afford. Normally, the poor had to wear
sleeveless shirts made of flax and they were so short that they exposed a section of the
wearers back. In cold weather, they wrapped sackcloth over it.
Festival clothing and officers uniforms
When the elderly men went out on business, for instance to the communal house, they often
wore black gauze tunics and pants with straight trouser legs and high crotches. In general,
Confucian scholars and people of high social rank wore tunics and turbans. Mens festival
clothing was simpler than womens. In the North and the Central region, the men typically

clothing was simpler than womens. In the North and the Central region, the men typically
wore pants with overturned belts and five-panel tunics that extended over the knee. The rich
wore silk or tussore garments and violet, scarlet or blue belts. The end of the belt hung down
in front over the tunic. A white long shirt was often worn under the black gauze tunic. Some
people preferred brown or turquoise tunics with high stiff square collars. The color of the outer
tunic matched well with the color of the inner shirt. During festivals or ceremonies, they wore a
waistband outside the gauze tunic, tied with a knot at the waist. Wealthy and high-ranking
people wore garments made of precious fabrics such as brocade with raised Chinese word
longevity, satin and smooth satin.
Since 1925, many people simply wore a white tunic in summer and wore a Western-styled
felt jacket over the tunic, called ba xuy (pardessus), in winter and wound a scarf called phu
la (foulard) around the neck. Garments worn by local mandarins included: black gauze tunics,
Western jackets and vn hi (shoes which had a thick stiff sole, black or turquoise velvet
instep and the two sides embroidered with designs of dragon, flowers, leaves and butterflies).
Other common shoes were shoes made of mountain goat skin, shoes covering the heels,
and h shoes made of leather and covering the toes. The famous shoe brands were Chi Long
and Tn Long. Boots that covered the lower part of the leg were mainly worn by those in the
upper class.
The Southern men wore white b ba garments. The seniors wore white shirts under black
velvet tunics with square high collars. Popular shoes were shiny black leather shoes; shoes
with wooden soles and leather instep; toad head-shaped shoes, Gia nh shoes with a black
shiny instep native to Gia nh province; and wooden shoes with one lace.
Many people still wore their hair in a bun covered with a black headscarf. Men also wore
conical hats, or hats with a flat top in the shape of a half mangosteen. In the North and the
Central region, hats were made of gi leaves and in the South, hats were made of coconutpalm leaves. Hat straps were made of rattan or fabric. Hats made from fan-palm leaves,
commonly known as m hats, or ci hats were the most popular among the poor.
After 1910, many men, particularly those in the cities, had their hair cut short but they still
wound scarves. On rainy days, they carried black or white umbrellas which were often called
bat wing-umbrellas. The poor used a palm-leaf raincoat to shelter from the rain.
In the 1930s, the fashion of short hair parted on one side began to prevail. The seniors wore
tunics and turbans. The turban looked like an already-wound headscarf and it was worn as a
hat so that the wearer did not spend time winding. The turban in the North had the Chinese
word human in the middle of the forehead. In the Central region, the turban had a peak in
front.
Besides traditional garments like gauze tunics and turbans, officers adopted Western
clothes.
In the South, officers working for the apparatus of French colonial government such as
village chiefs, canton chief, chief of district and chief of province wound a fabric belt or silk belt
with three stripes of blue, white and red, which was the color scheme of the French national
flag.

Childrens garments
Three or four year old boys wore short cnh shirts fastened with a cord tied at the waist side.
They wore dungarees which were kept in place with two cords secured at the nape of the neck
and two tied at the back. The crotch was often split. Little girls wore a skirt with an extra piece
of cloth covering the chest. The skirt also had a cord like boys dungarees. The kids could
wear only pants or skirts with an extra piece of cloth covering the belly and the chest in the
summer.
Little boys had three patches of hair on the head: two on the sides and one on the crown.
Little girls had two patches of hair with one from the crown down to the forehead, and the other
extending to the nape of the neck.
Children wore bracelets, anklets, necklaces, a silver khnh which was a kind of necklace
with a musical stone engraved with character mnh (fate) or trng sinh bn mnh (health
and longevity). A tigers claw could be added to the necklace as ornament and to drive away
ghosts and devils. At the age of seven or eight, girls began to wear bras, o cnh shirts and
four-panel long dresses in brown or black, kept in place with a waistband hanging down in
front. They wore dark colored skirts or pants. They wore square headscarves. In winter, they
wore shirts made of coarse fabric with open collars and fastened with two laces. They wore
leather or wooden shoes. They also wore silver earrings.
Seven or eight-year-old boys wore o cnh shirts and black shorts. When going out, they
wore dark colored or white gauze tunics. They had short hair covered with turbans. They wore
wooden shoes or walked in bare feet. Some boys tried Gia nh shoes. Many boys, mainly in
poor families still retained three patches of hair on their head.
In cities, girls of wealthy families often wore a long dress made of silk, brocade or satin in
different colors and buttoned under the arm. Their pants were typically white. They wore
wooden shoes with horizontal straps or shoes inlaid with beads. They let their hair grow and
tied it neatly at the back. They could also arrange their hair in Japanese style with fringes
hanging over the forehead, level sideburns and level locks of hair at the back. They used a
comb to secure the forelock or wore a narrow strip of cloth around the head to prevent the
sideburns from hanging over the face. Their jewelry included earrings, gold necklaces,
bracelets and gold lp lc (plaque). Boys in the city were dressed in garments of the same
type as those in the country but the fabrics were of higher quality. Few boys wore clothes of
Western style.
After the August revolution Womens costumes
In the anti-French resistance war, costumes of women in the country were subject to many
changes to suit their daily life in which work and fighting against the enemy were combined.
They were dressed neatly in brown o cnh shirts with round or heart-shaped neck,
sleeveless undershirts, black pants made of batiste or glossy cloth. They wound kerchiefs
around the head. Government officials wore shirts with straight sleeves, swallow wing collars
in blue, cement gray khaki or warm pink. They wrapped headscarves or wore their hair in a

in blue, cement gray khaki or warm pink. They wrapped headscarves or wore their hair in a
bun or tied their hair at the back. They wore black rubber shoes. In unoccupied areas, few
colorful long dresses previously worn by young ladies were seen during those days. The
elderly women still wore four-panel or five-panel long dresses to go to solemn meetings or
pagodas.
In the Central region and in the South, the women still retained traditional clothing. In areas
occupied by the French, there were few changes in the garments worn by women of lower
class and middle-class. After the Vietnamese won the war against the colonial French, the
North was completely independent; however, the Vietnamese people had to carry out another
resistance war against the imperialist American forces. The southern half of the country, was
occupied by the enemy. The women, famous as members of the long hair army, made an
enormous contribution to the glorious victories of the liberation army. The image of unyielding
women in o b ba and bandanas frightened the American army in many battles. Noticeably,
the rubber sandals and broad-brimmed caps were typical articles of clothing for female and
male soldiers in the South during the wartime.
The Northern people had to assist the South in the resistance war and at the same time,
build socialism in the North. Women in both urban and rural areas were actively involved in
social work. In order to suit the new working practices during wartime, women in the city
gradually preferred neat simple attire to previous stylish clothes.
The seniors typically wore short o cnh shirts or o b ba styled-shirts that closely fitted
the waist, with loose and long bodices, bowed hems, loose sleeves. The neck-line was heartshaped, spoon-shaped or square. Shirts were made of batiste, silk or poplin. Workers in the
offices or factories favored shirts of Hong Kong style with a collar folded down and loose
sleeves. Shirts of Hong Kong style that fitted closely at the waist were popular among young
women. The sleeves could be full-length with wide or narrow cuffs or forearm-length or upperarm length and puffed. Some common types of collars were round, pointed or square with
single lapel or double lapel, lotus leaf-shaped collars that were folded down, folded up or
square. The shirts were made of many fabrics and were ornamented with many colors and
designs such as flower, checked or striped patterns.
Black pants were most popular among women of different classes. They were mainly made
of silk of cross threads, plain silk, flowery silk, satin, flax or php. In winter, they often wore
Chinese cotton-padded shirts with five-centimeter stand-up collars like the collars of long
dresses, and with loose wristbands. The shirt fitted tightly around the waist, with loose panels,
thin lining and leaf-shaped or butterfly-shaped fabric buttons that were usually of the same
color as the shirt. The Chinese cotton-padded shirt was neat and elegant. The double-layered
shirt worn in the autumn had the outer layer made of velvet, plain satin or flowery satin, the
inner layer being made of silk or ta tng of different colors. The garment was tailored in similar
style to Chinese cotton-padded shirts, but it was not padded with cotton. Young ladies favored
Hong Kong jackets made of khaki, with or without folds. The two-lapelled collar was round or
high lotus leaf-shaped. The line of buttons ran down the middle, or on one side of the front.
Two pockets with a horizontal or slanting flap were sewn to the shirt. The sleeves were
straight, with cuffs folded inside or outside. The woolen garment worn on the upper part of the
body was of different types. It might or might not have sleeves, be fastened with buttons, or put
on by being pulled over the head. It reached the belt of the trousers. It could be worn over the

on by being pulled over the head. It reached the belt of the trousers. It could be worn over the
shirt or under the jacket. Shawls, silk scarves, flowery scarves or woolen scarves were
commonly worn.
The seniors often rolled their hair, wore their hair in a bun or had their hair permed. Young
women might hold their hair in place at the back with a hairpin, wear their hair in two plaits, let
their shoulder-length hair loose or have their hair permed. They wore wooden shoes or plastic
shoes with flat soles and high heels of 5, 7 or 9 centimeters with one horizontal strap or two
cross straps. In addition, sandals of many kinds and colors were also popular.
After 1954, the short cnh shirt worn by Northern women was modified so that the shirt fitted
mort tightly around the waist. It often had a wavy hem. Besides the traditional brown, other
popular colors were blue, white and pink and there were more kinds of fabric in use.
The protective clothing for female workers was all in deep violet or included a white shirt and
deep violet dungarees. Their hair was neatly held in place, cut short or permed. They wore
caps with visors or covered their hair with a piece of cloth. They wore sneakers, rubber
sandals or boots. Health care workers wore white blouses, white pants and white hats.
Salesgirls wore blue or white shirts with a double lapel and loose straight sleeves. As they
marched at the festivals, apart from the nice sporty outfits worn by labor delegates and
soldiers, one could admire the young women with elegant blouses fastened with pink or
celadon belts, or wearing long dresses in different colors and white conical hats set aslant at
the side of the face.
By contrast, the garments of Southern women still remained more traditional, though more
and more fabrics and new styles of clothes were being introduced. In the Central region,
female workers in urban and rural areas typically wore o cnh or o b ba made of many
different fabrics. Their pants were black, loose fitting and made of satin or nylon material. They
wore their hair in a bun, or wore headscarves. The senior women of the upper class preferred
tight fitting long dresses in bright colors such as light yellow or blue. The stand-up collar was
3-5 centimeters. The violet long dresses of Hue still retained their popularity. Their hair was
traditionally tied in a bun. Hue women rarely wore jewelry. However, some of them favored
gold necklaces. They used a little make-up to highlight the natural beauty of the face.
In the South, women of all age groups in the country normally wore bandannas and b ba
garments often in black or in other colors like white, blue, brown, dark brown or with flower
patterns, and made of many kinds of fabric. Long dresses were still in use. The seniors let
their hair grow and wore it in a bun. Young women tied their hair back or let their hair fall down.
In cities, senior women wore tight-fitting long dresses and white or black pants, tied their
hair in a conservative bun or had it permed. Fashionable women of the middle-class and
upper class preferred trendy European and American clothes.
Since 1954, traditional Vietnamese long dresses called o di that fit tightly around the
waist, with high stiff collars and close-fitting sleeves have been the uniform of female students
in many schools.
In the early 1960s when nylon products were much in vogue in the South, a type of thin long
dress worn over a sleeveless undershirt was very popular. The dress had a low-scooped

dress worn over a sleeveless undershirt was very popular. The dress had a low-scooped
neckline and was attached to black satin pants.
Tran Le Xuan produced a type of long dress with a horizontal neckline. However, it was not
very popular. The wearers preferred round, square or pointed necklines. The sleeves were
shorter, the panels of the lower part were wider and longer and the bodice fitted more closely
around the waist.
In later years, influenced by the fashion of miniskirts, the design of long dress was changed
with narrow and knee-length panels, high collars, diagonal seams between shoulders, short
sleeves and wide sleeve-ends. A slit exposed a small part of the rib above the upper hem of
the trousers. The long dress was made of domestic or expensive imported fabrics in white,
deep red, Hu violet or bight colors. The top was embroidered with designs of flowers,
dragons or phoenixes. The top could be a colorful cloth with small or big designs of flowers or
geometric shapes. The fashion of Western dresses and skirts also developed at the same
time.
Since 1954, many women have had their hair permed instead of wearing it in a bun. Young
womens hair came in many fashions: short hair, curly hair, curly fringes, wavy hair or frizzy
hair. After a few years, they turned back to parting their hair in the middle and let it naturally fall
down to the shoulders or extend to the middle of the back. Some of them still had their hair
permed with frizzy or rumpled wisps of hair.
Women also got the choice of many new types of footwear. During the period 1954 - 1959,
only rich women could afford leather shoes with soft soles, pointed toes and high heels. Afew
years later, they wore shoes with curved toes and low square heels. When dressed in long
dresses, they usually wore high-heeled wooden shoes lacquered or painted with flowers,
some very high, even over 10 centimeters in length.
Popular jewelry included colorful plastic bracelets, rings with large semi-precious stones of
many colors, big ear-rings, bronze necklaces and necklaces of large beads.
Fashionable glasses had plastic frames and big round, rectangular, square or multiangular frames. The eye-glasses came in a variety of colors: blue, light violet and dusky pink.
Just like the evolution of dress styles, fashion in cosmetics also changed over the time.
Women used much more make-up than they had before and liked to appear with red lips, and
pink cheeks. They wore thick eyeliner with shades of green, brown or violet. Some people
even put on several shades of color above their false eyelashes. They had their eyebrows
plucked into thin lines and had them penciled. They varnished their fingernails and toe-nails
with pink, red, brown, violet, green or silver nail polish.
Womens costumes since 1975
Since the reunification of North and South Vietnam, there have been fewer variations in
womens garments across the country. The senior women in cities wear o cnh, o b ba,
and Hong Kong shirts and seamed shirts with heart-shaped, spoon-shaped and square
collars, V-shaped and swallow wing collars, even double lapel collars for everyday wear. The
front of the top garment can be embroidered with a design of a few flowers or even the fingers

of the hand. The hem, wristband, flap of the pocket and neckline, all have fringes. Embroidery
patterns are added to the hem of the top and four corners of the front and the back of the top.
The shoulders are seamless or cut on the bias. On holidays, women often wear long dresses
in delicate shades of color.
The formerly popular cotton-padded jackets in the North and the North Central region are
now only worn by the elderly. In the North, few women wear head-scarves. The seniors tie their
hair in a bun. The youngsters have their hair permed or trimmed or cut short or let their hair
loose.
o cnh or o b ba are still favored by Central region women in daily work. On special
occasions, they wear long dresses and tie their hair in a bun or roll their hair up without
headscarves. Young women in the country still dress in shirts of different colors.
In the South, traditional dress styles continue to survive with b ba garments, hair buns and
bandana head-scarves. On ceremonial occasions or holidays, women still dress in oldfashioned long dresses.
In the North, the senior female peasants wear head-scarves, brown shirts and black
trousers in everyday work. At New Years Festival, they are dressed in white, blue, pink or
warm red cnh shirts. The garments for the young women include shirts and pants made of
silk, satin, php or black ta tng material. They tie their hair back neatly. On festival days, they
wear shirts of many designs, colors and made from fine fabrics. In general, young women in
the three main regions across the country have begun to try Western clothes, or long dresses
with elegant shades of color.
Mens costumes
After the August Revolution, the men in the cities quickly adopted a Western fashion of
dressing. In rural areas however, major changes in mens costumes took much more time.
After the resistance war against the French, cultural exchanges between the cities and the
country developed and encouraged changes in country attire. Many young men in the rural
areas began to wear Western shirts and trousers, while many local officials born in the cities
changed to brown clothes so that they could get on well with the village people. During this
time, the North was famous for padded waistcoats worn by both soldiers and common
people. At the same time, the people of the Central region widely used rubber sandals and
palm hats.
In the North, since 1954, the loose khaki shirts with four pockets on the outside have
prevailed. The shirt was developed from the famous Tn Trung Sns shirt in China. In the
summer, people prefer seamless, loose-fitting shirts with short sleeves, and double lapels.
They wear the hem of the shirt outside the trousers in the summer.
In winter, they wear a deep violet khaki shirt with two slanting pockets over a cotton shirt with
square stitched designs, which suited the peoples lifestyle during wartime. After a couple of
days wear, they can be easily washed. Sandals were made from tyres and car tubes and were
very cheap which added to their popularity.

From 1954 to 1975, in the unoccupied areas of the Central region, the clothes of normal
people stayed almost the same. In the occupied areas, dress styles were varied. The
garments for the senior men included gauze tunics, or black, deep blue satin tunics
embroidered with a flower designs, or the Chinese character Longevity. These were worn
with white so trousers and a turban. Polished leather shoes or black shoes were common.
Some men wore Western garments. The youngsters wore shirts, jackets, neckties, Western
trousers mainly in bright colors, leather shoes or sandals and had their short hair parted in
the middle. They wore m ct (sun-hats), or hats with visors. In fact, the men in the Central
region, especially those in HuCity were more interested in their clothes, more so than those
in the North and the South.
During this time, in the rural areas of the South, besides o b ba, many people wore
Western-styled shirts. In the occupied cities, particularly in Sai Gon, mens clothing was
markedly westernized. Most of the men wore shirts, jackets, Western trousers made of many
fabrics and with many colors and designs. Common footgear included Western shoes,
sandals, xm p shoes (shoes with high heels and spongy soles), and many other kinds of
plastic footgear. The men wore plastic, felt, leather or fabric hats with visors. Western fashions
were flooding the Southern clothes markets and received an enthusiastic response from the
youngsters. Popular Western garments were seamed shirts, shrinkable shirts, T-shirts with
prints of popular personalities, scenery, or a printed text on the front or the back.
Since 1975, Western trousers have been the most popular garments for most of the men of
all age groups in the country. Trousers are native to Europe and they were introduced to our
country by the French invaders.
Wedding outfits
During the time of the Nguyn Dynasty, on wedding days, princesses wore a five-phoenix
hat made from horsehair. The hat was inlaid with gold. Five gold phoenixes and a big red
flower were attached to the hat. The tassels of the hat were made of 120 beads of pearl and
crystal. The robe was a length of red satin with loose sleeves embroidered with designs of
flowers and phoenixes. The robe was kept in place with a red waistband. The skirt was a
length of white satin patterned with phoenixes and interwoven with silver motifs. The red
shoes were also embroidered with phoenixes.
Traditionally, in the North, brides wore three-dress suits. The outermost dress was a dark
colored gauze gown. The two inner dresses in pink, green, yellow or blue showed through the
gauze. The o cnh shirt was worn under the three-dress suit and the innermost garment was
a pink neck bra with white laces. The ensemble was tied with a black floss belt with fringed
ends over another pink, or celadon silk belt. The bride rolled her hair up and kept it in place
with a headscarf tied with a gold or silver butterfly shaped pin, letting one short lock of hair fall
down. On the way to the bride-grooms house, the bride wore a flat palm hat with fringes and
shoes with curved-toes.
Jewelry for brides included gold or silver earrings, a set of chatelaines, a knife, a finely
carved silver lime tube worn at the waist.

In the Central region, the brides also wore three-dress suits. The innermost was a red or
pink dress, the next was an indigo gauze or vn tha dress and the outermost was a black
gauze or vn tha gown. Some brides only wore two dresses, one indigo dress over another
red or pink dress to create a delicate color scheme. They wore white trousers and
embroidered shoes. The hair was rolled and tied in a bun at the nape of the neck. Necklaces
or strings of beads were worn wound several times around the neck. Brides from rich or royal
families wore a brocade dress under the four-panel gown embroidered with flowers and
phoenixes. The gown had wide hems and edges which were patterned with flowers and
colorful phoenixes, mainly around the neckline and down over the chest. The sleeves of the
gown were loose. Gold bracelets were hidden inside the sleeves of the gown.
In the South, the brides wore brocade dresses; black satin trousers and embroidered
shoes. Their hair was rolled and tied at the back with a bnh li comb made of tortoise-shell,
gold or silver. Some people wore a brooch to which a gold or silver butterfly was added,
mounted on a spring so that the butterfly could quiver to make the jewelry item more elegant
and impressive. Other jewelry consisted of gold armpit necklaces worn over the neck passing
through the armpit, and strings of beads worn several times around the neck.
The husband of the princess was nominated as the princess consort and aide-de-camp of
the king. He wore a hat with a yellow ball, yellow flower, and two gold-plated brass dragonfly
wings. He wore a blue royal tunic with loose sleeves stitched with red design embroidered
with clouds and cranes. His waist was tied with a pink belt and he wore mandarin boots.
Commoner bridegrooms wore loose indigo tunics made of brocade or gauze, trousers with
so legs. They tied their hair in a bun and wore indigo turbans. Their boots were also beautifully
embroidered.
From 1920 to 1930, in Northern cities, brides were dressed in a dark colored gauze tunic
over a pink or blue dress or a pink satin tunic over a C white silk long dress. They wore
glossy black silk or satin trousers. They wore shoes inlaid with beads or curved-toe wooden
shoes. They rolled their hair up and secured it with a black velvet headscarf, wore earrings
and many necklaces of gold beads.
Garments for the bridegroom included: a dark colored tunic made of gauze, satin, or flowery
brocade worn as the outer garment, a white tunic worn inside, white trousers with so legs, Gia
nh shoes or black shoes and turbans. At the betrothal ceremony, they wore an indigo tunic
on the outside.
In cities, brides gradually acquired Western styles of make-up and clothing. They applied
cosmetics and wore a white rose made of voile on their left chest and carried a bunch of white
gladioli which symbolized purity and also added to the beauty of the wedding gown at the
same time. In addition, the bunch of gladioli avoided the seemingly embarrassed bride from
feeling awkward with her hands. The bridegrooms wore a suit, a bow tie, and black leather
shoes. In rural areas, brides wore traditional gowns buttoned down the front and glossy black
silk trousers. Bridegrooms wore gauze tunics, white pants and turbans.
Since 1954, many complicated conventions in the marriage ritual and wedding outfits were

eliminated as a result of more enlightened and progressive social attitudes after the North
gained its independence. The simplified marriage rituals and wedding outfits also suited the
social context in wartime.
In cities, brides wore white wedding gowns, white pants, high heels, and carried bunches of
gladioli. They had their hair permed, or tied it back and applied lipstick and face powder.
Bridegrooms wore suits, ties and shoes.
Since 1975, after unification, cultural exchanges were increasingly enhanced. Noticeably, in
1980 and 1981, brides in cities of the North and the South favored wedding gowns in white,
faint yellow or faint blue, with folds on the sleeves and across the bodice. The gowns flared
out and extended to the ankle. The lower part of the gown had many horizontal laces. The
bride wore high heels, thin gloves, necklaces of diamond or imitation diamond, or sparkling
sapphire. She had her hair permed with nine curls of hair falling down. She wore a garland of
fabric flowers or a string of beads and tassels around the head and wrapped a white voan
headscarf. When being escorted, the bride drew her veil to conceal the face. Most of them
wore strong eyeliner, green eye shadow above the long false eyelashes. She carried a bunch
of gladioli and a garland of white roses that fell to her feet. Her outfit made the bride stand out
prominently among the team of bridesmaids. The bridegroom wore a suit in light brown, dark
color or checked pattern (or a shirt in the summer), a colorful flowery tie and black leather
shoes. Most importantly, he wore a white rose at the chest to be distinguished from the
groomsmen.
In rural areas, the wedding outfits were similar to everyday clothes but they were nice and
new. In 1981 and 1982, brides turned to the traditional long dresses again in their weddings.
The long dresses for the wedding had several designs. The queen long dress had a standup collar, loose sleeves, tight bodice and it was mainly red. The dress was not very long. The
yellow turbans were made of gold lamee fabric. A white rose was attached to the chest. They
wore white pants, high heels, and a little make-up. Simpler wedding long dresses were
mainly white, or in bright colors with a few flower designs, a tight bodice, flared sleeves and
shoulders of rc lng style. The dress reached to just above the knees. The brides wore white
pants and high heels. Their hair fell down naturally and some small white flowers were
attached to their hair. Their arms held a bunch of white gladioli.
Mourning outfits
During the Hung Kings period, when someone died, the mortar and pestle would be
pounded to announce the death. Mourning rituals and outfits started in that ancient time. The
mourning headband is mentioned in the ancient legend of the Trng Sisters who are said to
have removed the mourning headband to lead the fight against the invaders. In Vietnamese
feudal society, the ceremony of the state funeral has been known since the L dynasty.
Mourning outfits were made of xo fabric, a kind of coarse cheesecloth, or flax. If the king died,
the whole nation had to be in mourning. However, it was not until the king L Thnh Tngs
death in 1497 that the regulations for mourning clothes for state funerals were carefully
defined.
During the Nguyn Dynasty, state funeral ceremonies were sumptuous and extravagant.

The mourning clothes of the royal family, mandarins and soldiers were of many complicated
designs.
Besides the rituals of the state funeral, people in feudal society had to follow other strict
practices dutifully when their families were in mourning.
There were five types of mourning outfit: trm thi, ti thi; c phc; i cng, tiu cng; ti ma.
The type of mourning outfit one wore depended on the relationship with the deceased. The
deceased also had particular clothes that included headscarves (bc cn), face-covers (khn
minh mc), gloves (cc th bch), dark colored gowns, white gowns, white pants, belts,
shocks and shoes. The number of garments should be odd and the garments should have no
buttons.
After the August Revolution, mourning clothes have been much simpler, for example, the xo
shirts. The attendants at the funeral can now wear normal footgear. Many people do not wear
traditional hats or hold sticks when they are at the funeral. The close relatives of the deceased
simply wear a pleated black band around their arms for several days after the funeral
ceremony. Some people have a small piece of black cloth stitched on the chest. In some
families, the relatives simply wear mourning headbands and normal clothes. The closest
relatives of the deceased such as husband, wife and children wear xo scarves with two
ribbons hanging down. The other relatives wear white headbands. The friends wear black
bands around the arm or small pieces of black cloth on the chest.
Religious clothes
Nowadays, Vietnam has many religions, the two major ones being Buddhism and
Catholicism which have large organizations and a considerable number of followers.
Religious clothes have many noticeable features.
Clothes of the Buddhists
Vietnamese Buddhism is divided into two major branches: Mahayana and Hinayana. The
Mahayana monks used to wear robes made from coarse cloth and dyed with brown tubers.
Nowadays, they wear brown robes of better quality that can be died with industrial dye. Both
male and female Buddhists wear a brown short cnh shirt and brown trousers for everyday
wear. On business, they wear baggy robes with round stand-up collars and brown buttons.
The Hinayana monks however wrap themselves in a piece of unsewn brown or orange cloth
in a number of different ways. The usual way of dressings uses several pieces of cloth, the
first two worn as an undergarment and known as y ni or y an hi. Then the y vai tri or y
ut la tng is put on according the following procedure: the cloth is wrapped from the back,
passing through the right armpit, over the chest and covering the left shoulder leaving the right
arm and the right shoulder exposed. The end of the cloth on the left shoulder hangs down to
the front.
Formerly, Buddhist monks wore nn tu l (bamboo hat with a long ribbon and a small knob
on top). The hat was made of palms and had a wide brim. Nowadays, they wear leaf hats, cat
hats or brown hats on sunny days. In winter, they wear circular brown woolen hats. The top of

the hat is tightened or knitted into a small knot like the knot on the head of the Buddha stature.
Female monks wear ordinary hats. The Hinayana monks in the South do not use hats. They
take yellow or black umbrellas instead.
Both male and female monks must shave their heads. Female monks can wear
headscarves.
During the chy n ceremony, a monk wears a colorful lotus-shaped hat, known as tht
Pht hat. The hat has seven petals. Each petal is embroidered with the Buddha, a lotus or the
Sanskrit character. There are many other kinds of hats such as Pht quang hats, Quan m
hats, hip chng hats which are worn on different religious occasions or ceremonies.
The Mahayana monks wear strings of beads which are called rosary. They can wear one,
two or three strings at the same time but the total number of beads should be 108,
symbolizing the 108 fruits of the Bodhi Tree. The monks count their beads in the hope of
staying away from 108 sorrows of the secular world. The monks in the South do not wear
strings of beads.
Clothes of Catholics
Nowadays, in Vietnam, the majority of religious believers belong to Catholicism and
Protestantism. The outfit of Vietnamese Protestants is very simple. Protestants believe that
their outfits should create a close bond between church dignitaries and parishioners.
Therefore, Mc s (parsons), Ging s (protestant lecturers) and Chp s (priests) prefer to
wear everyday clothes like their followers when they conduct a ceremony. Formerly, they used
to wear a black gauze tunic under a white tunic and a turban, or wear a Western outfit.
Nowadays, they do not have to follow any particular clothing regulations but must ensure the
seriousness and the solemnity of the ceremony.
The clothes of both Catholic and Buddhist monks are simple. Their outfits are not
complicated or sophisticated. They favor dark shades of color for their clothes. Both male and
female have their hair shaved. Friars, priests and bishops all have short hair. According to the
dogma of almost all religions, most of the followers choose to live a simple life. Their belief is
evidently demonstrated in their clothes.
Remarkably, clothes of Vietnamese Buddhist monks have been significantly localized,
particularly those in the North. The short cnh shirt has buttons down the front and the tunic
has buttons under the arm. Their baggy pants are developed from traditional Vietnamese
pants. The way that Vietnamese female monks wear have their headscarves is instinct. The
brown of Vietnamese Buddhist monks clothes is also different from the brown worn by monks
in other countries since the color is made from a local tuber. In Catholicism, the novices wear
black robes with buttons under the arm and white traditional Vietnamese style pants. Their
soutane originally had buttons down the front but was redesigned with buttons running from
the neck to the armpit like the Vietnamese five-panel shirts. Christian parsons wear gauze
tunics and turbans.
Clothes for the Revolutionary Armed Services

Clothes for the Vietnamese Peoples Army

On December 22nd 1944, under the leadership of the Indochinese Communist Party, at the
northern base of Vit Bc, the Unit for Armed Propaganda and Liberation of Vietnam was
established. There were originally 34 people at full strength. This organization was the first
regular armed force of the Party. Though they were all devoted to the same ideal, they were
dressed in different clothes due to their different social classes, jobs and missions. Their
garments were indigo or brown. Some had suits, xo shoes, or shoes made of fabric or
leather. Because funds were so short during the early years, the supply of clothes for the
soldiers depended on the common peoples support and booty. Therefore, in addition to
ordinary clothes, they sometimes even wore the clothes of enemy guardsmen (lnh kh xanh),
fighters (lnh kh ) or Japanese and French soldiers. On September 2nd 1945, the Unit of
for Propaganda and Liberation of Vietnam came from the Vit Bc base to the capital Hanoi,
all dressed in uniform to celebrate National Independence Day with Hanoians.
The men were dressed in shirts with short sleeves, the shirt hems worn under the wide
belts of the shorts. They wore leather shoes and white sun-helmets (ct hat). The women
were dressed in shirts with short sleeves and pockets on the chests. Their trousers were
black, with wide belts and tightened hems. They wore sneakers and indigo hats with wide
brims.
Though the Vietnamese army had already seized power from the invaders, they had not
decided on clear regulations for the military uniform. The supply of soldiers clothes depended
on the capability of each military unit and local authority.
In Hanoi, soldiers of the National Defense Army were particularly smartly dressed. Their
garments included shirts, trousers with tapered legs and leather shoes. Noticeably, they wore
forage caps askew which were made of yellow cloth or deep violet felt, and with a yellow star
attached to the piece of circular red cloth on the front. The partisans of the Citadel Defense
Unit wore a yellow star on the square of red cloth.
On December 19th 1946, the whole nation began to carry out a war of resistance against the
colonial French invader. The armed services operated secretly among the community with the
assistance of the residents. Therefore, they were dressed like common people. In the North
and the Central region, they mostly wore brown shirts, short cnh shirts with two pockets,
trousers tapered at the bottom. That is why they were known as V tm (tapered soldiers).
Some people explained the design saying that because their trousers were torn, the soldiers
had to sew their trousers narrower. Army officials wore lumber-jackets, Ca na ing jackets or
va ri shirts. In general, they wore whatever hats, footgear and attire they could afford. The
soldiers of the fifth zone wore o cnh and gray trousers, made of cotton fabric, also known as
Sita fabric. In the South, the soldiers wore black b ba shirts and shorts to suit the hot climate
and geographical conditions with many canals and marshes.
At the end of 1947, padded waistcoats were produced and introduced to the army. These
waistcoats had round collars and had no sleeves. It was made from two pieces of cloth sewn
together at the sides and shoulders. It had buttons under the arm and on one shoulder. The

padded waistcoats had two layers with cotton padding in the middle and it was stitched with
designs of diamonds. The shirt was neat and well insulated. In hard times, the soldiers could
use ducks feathers or the bark of antiars beaten to shreds and dried as a substitute for cotton
to pad the shirt. Buttons were made of cloth or colored paper. Footwear was mainly black
rubber sandals.
The people in the fourth zone to the South called the rubber sandals Bnh Tr Thin sandals.
The rubber sandals have a historic value since they were the regular footwear of Vietnamese
soldiers during the resistance war against the French. They were still popular in later years
after the war. After 1950, soldiers gradually had their own uniform that included shirts with two
pockets and shoulder straps and Western trousers with buttons at the leg bottoms to tighten
at the ankle when necessary. The whole outfit was in green or yellow green. They wore fabric
shoes with rubber soles or black rubber sandals.
In the Ty Bc Campaign (North West Campaign) in 1952, the soldiers were supplied with
long-sleeved padded waistcoats that looked like cotton-padded lumber jackets. They also
used parachute fabric acquired as booty from the enemy to wrap round their bodies in order to
camouflage themselves or keep warm in winter.
In 1953, the soldiers were supplied with the same outfits. In October, 1954, when they took
the capital Hanoi, most of the soldiers were dressed in their own military outfits. In 1958,
military outfits, military badges, regulations on military signs and insignia were promulgated.
Besides ordinary military clothes, the department of military equipment produced clothes of
special design that severed specific duties of the soldiers. Although these clothes were not
regular military outfits, they made important contribution to the Vietnamese armys resounding
victories.
After the reunification of the nation, the Vietnamese Peoples Army continued to develop into
a regular modern army. As a result, the design of military outfits has been studied thoroughly.
The practicality and the aesthetic elements of the outfit are put into consideration. The outfit
should facilitate particular military missions, suit the climate, and have a reasonable
production cost.
In 1982, the regular military outfit of the Vietnamese Peoples Army was applied as the
standard for the whole army throughout the country. The outfit was called military uniform K82.
In comparison with previous military uniforms, the K82 uniform has reached perfection in
design. The K28 was produced after the designers had thoroughly studied the military
uniforms of many other countries. However, the Vietnamese K28 uniform still has distinct
features that meet the particular needs of the Vietnamese Peoples Army in terms of
practicality and aesthetic qualities.
On April 20 th 1995, the Minister in charge of the Department of Defense issued the decree
338/Q-QP on the use of uniforms for military officers, professional soldiers, noncommissioned officers and servicemen of the Vietnamese Peoples Army. The new decree
proclaimed a number of small changes in the military uniforms.

Conclusion
Vietnamese clothes in the ancient times were simple but elegant, displaying the
Vietnamese soul at the beginning of history. Throughout a long historical development, the
designs of clothes have gradually changed to suit the climate, living environment and war
years.
Clothing is an essential need in human life. In term of practicality, it is a necessity; in terms
of aesthetics, it is a work of art. The basic function of clothing is to protect the wearer.
Regarding this aspect, Vietnamese costumes have effectively fulfilled their role. They not only
assist the wearers in work, festivals, fighting and so on, but they also help them prevent and
cure diseases. For example, wooden clogs for the elderly made from a special wood can help
prevent rheumatism, a very frequent condition in a tropical monsoon climate. There is also a
special material to make protective hats for children. Belts and jewelry can also perform such
a function. It is notable that Vietnamese attire often serves many roles at the same time. The
palm conical hat is a typical example that has been mentioned many times. The headscarf is
not only used as headgear, it can be used to wash the face, or as a defensive weapon. The
emergence of the rubber tyre sandals during the resistance war against the French was not
mere chance but the result of Vietnamese creativity and spirit. The multi-function of
Vietnamese apparel is not a result of poverty. When one walks through Trng Sn forests, a
pair of rubber type sandals is still the best choice.
The normal black color of female trousers is connected with hygiene. The problem could
hardly be solved if only economic and working conditions were considered. Vietnamese
costumes always have a fine combination of design, color, materials and patterns. Clothes of
ancient Vietnamese in Vc village tinkled with brass and silver chatelaines. Even the rustle of
a new garment pleased the wearer at the beginning of the 20th century. The rich often used
aromatic herbs to scent their clothes. Common people often use parsley seeds or leaves, or
citronella leaves soaked in water to wash their hair. They used shaddock flowers and jasmine
to beautify their hair. The dyes used for materials were chosen to give a certain fragrance for
the wearer to enjoy. Vietnamese costumes have historical value, meaning that they can reveal
their date with relative accuracy. The discovery of the actual date of Vietnamese clothing is
carried out by a number of specialists. The variety of Vietnamese costumes is sometime
shown in technical features.
Ever since Vietnam proclaimed its independence and sovereignty in the 10th century, feudal
dynasties issued decrees on the uniformity of clothes. The wearers must obediently follow
strict regulations on clothing in relation to the social ranking prescribed by feudal society. In
this day and age, the Vietnamese Peoples Armys uniform is not the costume of one
particular ruling family but is applied to the whole nation.
Costume is an aspect of culture. In addition to Vietnams reputation for wet rice cultivation,
planting mulberry trees and raising silkworms is also an essential working practice of the
Vietnamese people. The popular Vietnamese proverb be honest even though you are
starving, be clean despite being ragged not only refers to the clothes that you wear but also
teaches a moral way of life.

On the one hand, Vietnamese people do not possess conservative views about changes in
fashion, especially those adopted by the young. On the other hand, Vietnamese people
disapprove of the pursuit of outlandish and extravagant fashions, which diverges from
traditional values of the nation in dress code. Also, we cannot attribute peoples carelessness
in dressing to the low level of our economic development. Poor dressing debases real human
values.
Clothes create the first impression others have of the wearer. They somehow present the
inner personality of the wearer in term of standards in mental refinement, elegance and
politeness.
On the basis of a study of Vietnamese costumes, Vietnam has always developed stably,
holding to the principle of preserving valuable traditional customs and adopting adequate
modern practices. This is done with creativity, but also with a critical mind. In the new social
context with frequent cultural exchanges, Vietnamese clothes possess both national and
international characteristics.

The Illustration explanatory notes

Page

Figures of men wearing a hat and a feathery skirt (carved on a bronze jar)

P.10

A statue of a woman on a dagger or sword hilt

Dress (hats, clothes, shoes) in the time of Hng Kings
1,2. Men and womens working dress
3. Womens casual dress
4. Warriors dress
Hairstyles on archeological objects
A figure of a man gathering his hair into a bun, wearing a loincloth on a
ladles handle (found in Vit Kh)
Men and womens hairstyles in the time of Hng Kings
Leggings
A length of bronze belt
1,2. A square piece of armor
3. A rectangle piece of armor
Buckle
Bronze headband
Arm-guard
Bronze bracelet
Stone necklaces
Animal-shaped stone earring
Bronze rings with a musical bell attached
ng Sn bronze brooches
1. A tin hin hat
2. A vin du hat
3. A thng thin hat
4,5. A phc u hat (mandarins bonnet)
Statue of King L Cng Un
The L dynasty hairstyle
Statues of Vajra under the L dynasty
Instrumentalists clothing under the L dynasty
A figure having the body of a bird and the head of a man
Orchestra. Carved out of stone Pedestal of Pht Tch pagoda (the left half)
Orchestra. Carved out of stone Pedestal of Pht Tch pagoda (the right half)
Statue of Amitabha-Buddha
Head of a statue of a military aide

9.

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Instrumentalist and dancing-girls clothing

A statue of a military aide
A figure of a man kneeling to support Buddhas throne
A figure of a man on Cn Thnh relics
A figure of an instrumentalist
A figure of a fairy offering flowers (on bricks)
Statue of the first founder of Trc Lm Zen Sect
Figures of Instrumentalists on cn (beam) of Thi Lc pagoda
Figures of the Trn dynasty instrumentalists
A worshipping statue of Bi Kh pagoda
A statue of a man leading a horse (inh Hng tomb)
1. A statue of a mandarin (inh Hng tomb)
2. A statue of a mandarin (the family s tomb)
3. A statue of a military aide (Hi Dng)
Statue of two civil mandarins
A statue of a military aides
Nguyn Tris portrait
Statue of King L Thn Tng (Thanh Ha)
Statue of Tnh Vng Trnh Sm (Hanoi)
A Hu Pht statue of Mc ng Dung (Tr Phng pagoda, Hi Phng)
Hu Pht statue (statues of persons who are worshipped in the pagoda in
return for their generous donations) (Nhn Trai pagoda, Hi Phng)
A worshipping statue of Bi Kh pagoda
A coat of the Song king (China)
Statue of Goddess Ma (Thanh Ha)
Statue of Goddess Ma and her maid (Hng Yn)
Statue of King Thn Tngs queen (Thanh Ha)
Statue of King L Thn Tngs wife (Mt pagoda)
Statue of Goddess Ng (Du pagoda)
Statue of Princess L Th Ngc Duyn (Bt Thp pagoda)
Statue of Queen Mother Trnh Th Ngc Trc (Thanh Ha)
Statues of a servants (Bt Thp pagoda)
Statue of Ngc N (Du pagoda)
Statue of Kim ng (Du pagoda)
Hu Pht statues (statues of persons who are worshipped in the pagoda in
return for their generous donations) (Bi Kh pagoda, H Ty)
Hu Pht statue of Nguyn Th Ngc Ton, King Mc ng Dungs wife (Tr

P.61
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Phng pagoda, Hi Phng)

Wooden statues of the 16-17 centuries, with some types of hats
Statue of Duke Nguyn Th M (Hi Dng)
A figure of King T c wearing a hat
King Thnh Thi
Sacrificial robe of King Minh Mng
King Minh Mngs robe for holding an ordinary court
Nguyn kings military clothing embroidered with a dragon
King Thnh Thi wearing casual dress
King Hm Nghi wearing casual dress
Civil mandarins ceremonial dress
Tuy L Vngs ceremonial dress
Mandarins wearing court dress
Ty Thin Vng Min Thm wearing a bnh nh hat
Ritual robe of Queen T Cung (Khi nhs wife)
Mandarins wifes dress
Queens ceremonial dress
Queen Mother oan Huy
Crown Prince Nguyn Cnh Tngs (King ng Khnh) robe for holding a
general court
Kings boots
King and queens shoes
King Duy Tn wearing court dress
King Bo i wearing court dress
Military mandarins under the Nguyn dynasty
1. Kings ceremonial dress (coats front, hat, boots and some auxiliary
pieces)
2. Kings ceremonial dress (coats back)
3. Mandarins ceremonial dress
1. A short-sleeved shirt (front)
2. A short-sleeved shirt (back)
3. Civil mandarins costume (front)
4. Civil mandarins costume (back)
5. Military mandarins costume (front)
6. Military mandarins costume (back)
1,2. The highest-ranking civil mandarins hat in a general court (front and
back)
3,4. The highest-ranking civil mandarins hat in an ordinary court (front and

P.86 side)
5,6. The highest-ranking military mandarins hat in a general court (front and
back)
7,8. The highest-ranking military mandarins hat in an ordinary court (front and
side)
P.87
Designs on civil mandarins costumes
P.87
Designs on military mandarins costumes
1. Court inspectors hat
2,3. Military mandarins hat (front and side)
P.90
4,5. Fourth-grade civil mandarins hat (front and back)
6,7. Seventh-grade civil mandarins hat (front and back)
P.91
Tin s (Dr.), civil mandarins
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Tin s (Dr.), military mandarins
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Soldiers carrying palanquin
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Eunuch and people of good lineage under the Nguyn dynasty
P.94
King Khi nh
P.95
The Nguyn dynasty Princesss children
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Mounted soldiers
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The Tonkin indigenous soldiers
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Saigon women
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A working woman wearing a palm-leaf conical hat and a palm-leaf coat
P.100
A working woman (North)
P.101
A woman wearing a padded cotton overcoat
A woman wearing the four-panel long dress with two front flaps that hang
P.102
freely
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Women in working dress
P.103
Types of palm-leaf conical hats
P.105
The Northern women wearing the dress for festive occasions
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The Northern woman wearing a basket-shaped palm hat with fringes
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A set of chatelaines
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Earrings
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Girls wearing the five-panel long dress
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Girls from a mandarins family (Hanoi)
P.109
Types of wooden clogs
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Hu women
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A lady and a maid (Cochinchina)
P.111
A girl from a rich family (Cochinchina)
P.112
A Saigon woman

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Urban women (Central Vietnam)

Ms. Nguyn Th Hu (Hanoi) wearing the Le Mur shirt
Ms. Hng Vn (Saigon) wearing the Le Mur shirt
Two girls (Hi An) wearing the Le Mur shirt
A teacher and schoolgirls (1939)
A woman wearing padded cotton long dress
A peddler wearing the four-panel long dress (Hi Phng)
An urban woman wearing the four-panel long dress with two front flaps tied
P.119
together (Hanoi)
A man winding a turban made of lt cloth, his nails painted with an orchid
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pattern
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Civil servant wearing a five-piece silk shirt
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A man wearing a turban
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Rickshaw pullers (Hanoi)
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Peddler (Saigon)
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Rickshaw puller for the rich family (Tonkin)
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The dignitary in the metal-topped conical hat
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Two dignitaries wearing the brocade long dress
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A group of instrumentalists (Saigon)
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A young man wearing Western clothes
P.127
Two girls wearing the long dress, winding a turban
Children wearing clothes that were widespread before the August 1945
P.127
Revolution
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Childrens clothing for festive occasions
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Childrens hairstyles
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Countryside market and types of clothes (Hanoi folk painting)
P.131
The Northern country girls
1,2. Suburban women
P.132
3,4. Countrywomen working in the winter
P.133
A woman winding a turban
P.133
A girl winding a turban
P.133
A royal woman winding a turban (Hu)
P.133
A Hanoi woman winding a turban
P.134
The girls in winter dress
P.135
A Hanoi girl
P.136
Some hairstyles
P.137
Urban womens hairdressing

P.138
P.139
P.144
P.145
P.145
P.148
P.149
P.150
P.152
P.153
P.153

Some types of autumn-winter hats

Some types of shoes, sandals, wooden clogs
Men wearing clothes of all types (after the August 1945 Revolution)
A man wearing a padded cotton overcoat
A man wearing a palm-leaf hat and a four-pocket coat
Childrens clothes widespread since 1954
Childrens afer-the-August-1945-Revolution clothes
Straw hat
A wedding with types of traditional dress
The prince consort and princess in wedding dress
The princess in bridal dress
The bride and bridegroom together with relatives on both sides in a wedding
P.154
in Saigon
P.155
The bride and bridesmaids in a wedding in Hanoi
P.156
The bride and bridegroom in their wedding dress
P.156
A wide variety of bridal dress
P.159
Sons, daughters, daughters-in-law, sons-in-law in mourning dress
P.160
Grandchildren and great-grandchildren in mourning
Superior Buddhist monk wearing a robe and a lotus-shaped colorful hat
P.164
called m tht Pht
P.164
A monk in a frock
1. Female bonzes casual dress
2. Female bonzes ritual dress
P.165
3. Monks autumn-winter dress (North)
4. Hinayana monks indoor dress
5. Mahayana monks outdoor dress
P.166
Mahayana monk in outdoor dress
P.166
Hinayana monk in outdoor dress
Dress
1. Cardinal
2. Bishops ceremonial dress
P.168
3. The hat worn for celebrating a religious ceremony
4. Bishops clothing
5. Young acolytes clothing
P.169
Mitra hat
P.170
Nuns in dress
P.171
Parsons, priests in the Protestant dress
P.172
The Protestants in dress for the Bap Tm ceremony

P.172
P.173
P.174
P.174
P.175
P.175
P.176
P.176
P.176
P.177

A choir
The Armed Propaganda and Liberation Army of Vietnam
Members of the Armed Propaganda and Liberation Army
Guerilla girls
A soldier in the padded waistcoat, net hat, rubber sandals
Guerillas
A net hat
Broad-brimmed cap
Rubber sandals
A member of the Southern Liberation Army in uniform
The Southern militiawoman wearing a o b ba (kind of shirt used by South
P.177
Vietnamese people) and bandana
P.178
Soldiers, non-commissioned infantry officers in winter uniform
Soldiers, non-commissioned officers (1. antiaircraft force; 2. air force) in
P.178
summer uniform
P.179
Soldiers, non-commissioned naval officers in winter uniform
P.179
A naval soldier wearing a short-sleeved shirt
P.179
An antiaircraft soldier wearing a long-sleeved shirt
P.179
Soldiers, non-commissioned officers in uniform (with a coat)
P.180
Soldiers, non-commissioned officers in field uniform
P.180
Infantry officers in summer uniform
P.180
Air force officers, professional soldiers in summer uniform
P.181
Officers (1. infantry; 2. antiaircraft) in winter uniform
P.181
Soldiers, non-commissioned naval officers in full dress uniform (summer)
P.182
Naval officers, professional soldiers in summer uniform
P.182
Infantry officers, professional soldiers in full dress uniform (winter)
P.182
Air force officers, professional soldiers in full dress uniform (summer)
P.182
Naval officers, professional soldiers in full dress uniform (summer)
Soldiers, non-commissioned officers (1. infantry; 2. air force) in ceremonial
P.183
professional uniform
P.183
Air force officers in ceremonial professional uniform (1. winter. 2. summer)
Soldiers, non-commissioned officers guarding President H Ch Minh
P.184
mausoleum in ceremonial professional uniform (1. winter; 2. summer)
Officers guarding President H Ch Minh Mausoleum in ceremonial
P.184
professional uniform (1. winter; 2. summer)
Military instrumentalists in ceremonial professional uniform (1. winter; 2.
P.185
summer)

P.185
P.186
P.186

Officers in field uniform

An officer wearing an overcoat
An officer wearing a medium overcoat

MC LC / CONTENTS
LI NH XUT BN
LI TC GI
THI HNG VNG
VI NT V THI NG - INH - TIN L
THI L
THI TRN
VI NT V GIAI ON NH H
THI L - MC - TRNH - NGUYN - TY SN
THI NGUYN - PHP THUC
SAU CCH MNG THNG TM
TRANG PHC L CI
TRANG PHC L TANG
TRANG PHC TN GIO
TRANG PHC LC LNG V TRANG CCH MNG
LI KT
T LIU THAM KHO
SUMMARY IN ENGLISH / TM TT BNG TING ANH

SCH T HNG 2006

Chu trch nhim xut bn:

C THANH AM
Bin tp:
QUANG VIT
Ma-kt:
V PHM VIT THNG
Dch ting Anh:
TRNH HNG HNH
Vi tnh:
NGUYN TR DNG, V BCH HNH
In 620 cun, kh 21x29,7cm, ti Cng ty In Cng on Vit Nam.
Giy ng k Q - 60/2006/CXB/4 - 41/MT ngy 27/10/2006. In xong v np lu chiu thng
12 nm 2006.

[1]
V tn ca Hai B Trng, thn tch lng Lu Thng, huyn Bch Hc (Ph Th) k rng: nh Hai
B Trng lm ngh chn tm, quen gi ci kn dy l kn chc, kn mng l kn nh, khi Hai B Trng
th t tn hai ch em l Chc v Nh. Nh vy cng chng minh thi ny ngh trng du, chn tm, dt vi
pht trin su rng.
[2]
Theo Lch s Vit Nam, tp I.
[3]
B t: ming vi thu hnh loi chim hay loi th no cc quan nh o chu.
[4]
o long cn: o thu rng un khc.
[5]
Ng S Lin - Phm Cng Tr: i Vit s k ton th.
Tham kho triu phc i nh Tng, v m c 3 th: m tin hin, m iu thin, m gii tri.
M tin hin lm bng vi thm, ng trc cao 7 tc, ng sau cao 3 tc, di 8 tc, c 5 cu, quan

nht phm, nh phm i khi t l v khi hi triu thn.

M iu thin ging nh m tin hin nhng c nh thm ui con iu th v ch c 2 cu dnh cho
cc quan tam phm cc ty v tam phm ng s i, quan ng phm hai snh, i khi t l hay khi hi
triu thn.
M gii tri cng ging nh m tin hin nhng c thm sng con gii tri (mt ging th thn b,
hnh ging con d, c mt sng) v ch c 2 cu, dnh cho cc quan t phm, ng phm, lc phm tr
xung i khi t l hay khi hi triu thn.
V th ch o, th c o b, tay o rng, di c ng lan can ngang, cc quan t tam phm tr ln
mc o mu ta, t ng phm mu , lc, tht phm mu lc, bt cu phm mu xanh. Tht ai da, i hia
da en, eo ti ng i, thu hnh c (o mu ta th thu c vng, o cc mu khc th thu c bc). Khi c
vic cng, mc phm phc th eo ti y vo ai, bung v pha sau phn bit cp cao thp.
[6]
Ngoi nhng vn trang phc ca cc nhn vt quan trng nh vua, quan vn, quan v trong
triu, mc ny chng ti cn gii thiu nhng kiu cch trang phc ca nhng ngi phc v trc tip
cho b my triu nh nh qun lnh, cung n, v n, nhc cng, v.v Thc ra nhng lp ngi nh v
n, nhc cng t vo phn ny c th cha tha ng.
[7]
Theo Trn Quc Vng, V Tun Sn, H Ni nghn xa. Nxb H Ni, 1998.
[8]
Tng Kim Cng cha Long i (i Sn, Duy Tin, H Nam).
[9]
Tng Kim Cng cha Pht Tch (Tin Sn, Bc Ninh).
[10]
Tng cha Long i.
[11]
Nh tng u ngi mnh chim cha Pht Tch.
[12]
Nh tng chm ni thnh bc thp Chng Dng ( Yn, Nam nh), tng t nung
cha Long i (H Nam).
[13]
Vn kin: tm vi trang tr p, c loi c tua, trm mt phn ngc, lng v vai.
[14]
Nh hnh chm tng k chn ct cha Pht Tch (Bc Ninh).
[15]
Theo bn dch i vit s k ton th. Cn bn dch LTHCLC li vit: cc quan vn v u i
m kiu ch inh (tc gi l m nh Minh). Xt thy khng ng, v nh Minh (TQ) bt u t 1368, trong
khi m ch inh c nhc ti nc ta trc (t ra l t 1300), sao li gi l m nh Minh c?
Ngoi ra, V trung ty bt li c on vit: Thi inh Tin Hong mi ch ra loi m t phng bnh nh,
l m hnh vung, nh bng, lm bng da v sau mi bin i thnh hnh lc lng v gi l m bnh
nh. Ri li thay hnh vung thnh hnh trn, un ch thng thnh cong, lm mt loi m thng dng khi
vo triu, gi l m ch inh. Mt khc, tm hiu cc loi trang phc Trung Quc, chng ti cha tm thy
c loi m no tn gi l m ch inh, nht l thi nh Minh.
[16]
Tng quan l quan hu cn vua. sch Lch triu hin chng loi ch, bn dch Nxb S hc li
vit l thuc quan.
[17]
Trn Phu t li trong An Nam tc s vic hng trm vin quan triu Trn, i n tip s gi, mc
o bo, cm ht nhng u i chn t. C l hnh thc ny din ra l biu hin s knh trng, cng nh
ngi dn i giy vo cung vua u ci giy ra.
[18]
Tng quan hu, Lng Trn Hin Tng (An Sinh, ng Triu, Qung Ninh).
[19]
Mi l 80 ngi. C sch ni 50 ngi.
[20]
Theo Lch s Vit Nam, Tp I v Tng B Honh, Ngh c truyn Hi Hng, NXB, S Khoa hc
Cng ngh v Mi trng - Bo tng Hi Hng.

[21]
[22]
[23]
[24]

Hnh v n trn vn bng, cha Thi Lc (Lc Hng, Vn Lm, Hng Yn).
Hnh cc nhc cng trn cn, cha Thi Lc (Lc Hng, Vn Lm, Hng Yn).
Hnh v n trn gch, cha Hang (Ni c, ng Tm, Lc Yn, Yn Bi).

nhiu nc trn th gii hin nay vn c quy nh thanh nin nhp ng, u co trc hoc ct
tc rt ngn, to iu kin cho cc hot ng luyn tp qun s v chin u thun li.
[25]
Thng Hong Trn Nhn Tng dy vua Trn Anh Tng: Nh ta vn l ngi vng h lu,
i i a chung hng dng, thng thch hnh rng vo i t l khng qun gc (i Vit s k
ton th).
[26]
Chnh sc l cc mu c bn nh xanh, , vng, trng, en.
[27]
Gin sc l cc mu do pha ln mu ny vi mu khc m thnh.
[28]
Hnh cc loi hoa vn trn b cha Ph Minh (x Lc Vng, ngoi thnh Nam nh), hnh
rng cn g cha Du (x Thanh Khng, Thun Thnh, Bc Ninh), hnh sng nc trn b thp Trn
Nhn Tng (cha Hoa Yn), hnh hoa trn thp gm o c cnh ng Ca Triu, khu Thin Trng
(Lc Vng, M Lc, ngoi thnh Nam nh), v.v
[29]
Theo Lch s Vit Nam, Tp I.
[30]
M min ca vua Vit Nam t xa xa khng thy ni n, nhng theo Lch triu hin chng loi
ch m min c lm ra t i vua L Thi Tng (1434-1442), song cng khng dng lin tc. Trung
Quc, n i nh Chu, m min l th m cao qu nht c i trong cc dp t l quan trng (nh t
tri, t ng , cng tin vng). Trong mi loi t l, ty theo mc tn nghim, i m min li phi
mc mt loi o khc nhau. l o i cu (o lng cu non), cn phc (o thu rng phng), mit phc
(o thu hnh chim tr), xu phc (o dt bng lng cu v lng chim tr), hy phc (o dt bng t dy sn),
huyn phc (o khng c hoa vn). Khi mc cn phc, m min c nh 12 tua, khi mc mit phc, nh
9 tua, khi mc xu phc, nh 7 tua, khi mc hy phc, nh 5 tua, khi mc huyn phc, nh 3 tua pha trc,
pha sau. Mi tua l mt dy to (dy t nhiu mu) xu 12 vin ngc, c gi l ngc to.
[31]
Hong bo: o bo mu vng ca nh vua.
[32]
M xung thin: m phc u c hai cnh tr ln tri.
[33]
M bnh nh: t m t phng bnh nh (dng trong qun i thi inh Tin Hong, bng da,
hnh vung, trn bng phng). i sau i ra hnh lc lng, h thp bt phn trn, ch bng la bi sn,
chuyn dng khi t l.
[34]
Yt kin: cc quan gp vua ngy thng.
[35]
M dng ng l m phc u nhng pha sau cao ln.
[36]
Dy thao kp: dy thao chp i tht o.
[37]
sa: sa mu en, loi c bit, cn sa thng mu en th gi l hc sa.
[38]
Theo Nguyn nh u lc dch t B.S.E.I: Relation dun voyage en Cochinchine en 1778 ca
M. Chapman.
[39]
Thn qun: qun tc trc bo v kinh thnh.
[40]
Nn thy ma: nn an bng gai nc.
[41]
Quan ng thng: cn gi l ng quan, chc quan cao cp.

[42]
Mnh ph: ngi n b c vua phong hiu cho. C hai hng: ni mnh ph l nhng ngi
c phong hiu trong cung (nh phi tn), ngoi mnh ph l cng cha, v tc vng v n b nh
chng m c phong.
[43]
Vi thanh ct: vi nhum mu xanh chm ri gin nu em h qua, ly chy p, v k, phi kh.
[44]
Hong thn l thn thch nh vua. Vng thn l thn thch nh cha.
[45]
Mu ta, mu hng, mu thanh ct
[46]
M phc u, m sa, nn chp bc gi lng , np chp bc, nn sn son gi lng , nn sn
son
[47]
Mt loi g rng.
[48]
Dn theo Nguyn nh u, lc dch t B.S.E.I: Relation dun voyage en Cochinchine en 1778
ca M.Chapman.
[49]
M mt cn gi l m lng, m m v, lm bng lng ui nga.
[50]
Theo L Qu n, Ph bin tp lc, Nxb KHXH, H., 1977.
[51]
Tng c gi (g) nh Hng Lc (Ngha Hng, Nam nh).
[52]
Phm nh H, V Trung ty bt.
[53]
Theo Phm nh H, V Trung ty bt.
[54]
Vn kin: tm vi trang tr p, c loi c tua, trm mt phn ngc, lng v vai.
[55]
Dy anh lc: dy eo trang sc.
[56]
Li vua L Thnh Tng, (1471) (Lch triu hin chng loi ch).
[57]
L cy rung tch in c t thi Tin L nhng khng r vua n mc th no.
[58]
B trang phc ca ngi ph n min Bc xa i vo ca dao:
Ci nn ba tm
Quai thao mt nm, o trmmt i,
Ci tht lng emby tmvung si
[59]
Do , n ci v hm rng ca cc c thng nh cho ai trong ca dao:
Mnh v c nh ta chng
Ta v ta nh hmrng mnh ci
Rng en ai nhumcho mnh.
duyn mnh p, cho tnh anh say
Trmquan mua ly n ci
Mi quan chng tic, tic ngi rng en
[60]
Ng l mt bng hoa bng ng nh trn mt guc, khi i guc ngi ta kp thn ng vo khe hai
ngn chn cho chc (thay quai). min Trung guc ng c cn x c v ng thng lm bng ng,
hnh cu.
[61]
ng Lm l mt a danh pha nam H Ni thi ni ting v nhum vi.
[62]
Khn rn chiu di khong 120cm, rng t 40-50cm, trn mt khn c nhng hnh vung mu
ghi v trng xen k nhau. Khi tri lnh th qung c, lc nng nng th vt ln u thnh nhiu lp.
[63]
C ngi cho rng o di ph n c s cch tn nh vy v thi gian ny phng tin i li Si

Gn ch yu bng xe my, nu t o rng v di s b vng.

[64]
o i cn xut hin v c s dng rt rng ri t sau Cch mng Tn Hi (1911) Trung
Quc, c thit k da trn mu trang phc thng mc ca ngi dn tnh Qung ng.
[65]
Xm p: l tn gi chch i t xa-b (ting Php: sabot) c ngha l giy g, hoc giy di l
g, phn trn l da. Lu nay Vit Nam vn dch sabot l guc.
[66]
Xi mc: kiu khu trang tr lm vi chun li, trng nh hnh t ong.
[67]
Lng C (huyn Ba V, H Ni) ni ting v dt la:
La ny tht la C
Chnh tng la cng, cc c a dng
[68]
Ca dao c cu:
Chng c, v cu, chng d
Trong ba ngi y cht th khng () tang.
[69]
C l l xa tc.
[70]
Phan Huy Ch: Lch triu hin chng loi ch. V chi tit ny, i Vit s k ton th ghi l 3
nm.
[71]
Phan Huy Ch: Sch dn. V chi tit ny, i Vit s k ton th ghi l 5 thng.
[72]
m chc: con chu cc quan t ng phm tr ln c tp m b quan.
[73]
Nho sinh trng thc: con cc quan vin c vo hc Chiu vn qun v T lm cc, thi hi trng
1, 2 k.
[74]
Gim sinh: thi hng 4 k khng c vo hc Quc T Gim.
[75]
Bin binh hp thc: con cc quan thi khoa bc c 8 k.
[76]
Sinh : thi hng 3 k.
[77]
Nhiu nam: con quan c min thu v tp dch.
[78]
Ph bn: ming vi biu tng cho s chu ng ni au kh.
[79]
Thch: chu trch nhim vic l tang.
[80]
Truyn c tch Vit Nam c k n nguyn nhn mt tc tang nh sau: v chng mt nh n
giu c nhng khng c con giai, ch c 5 ngi con gi. Sau khi 5 ngi ly chng, ng gi n thm cc
con u b cc con coi thng, khng chm sc. ng gi gi lm mt ngi ngho kh i rao bn mnh, ai
mun mua ng v lm cha th mua. V chng mt anh nng dn ngho thiu tnh cm cha con, c xoay x
bng cch ngi v ct tc bn ly tin mua ng v lm cha v nui dng ng rt chu o. n b cho
tm lng hiu tho ca v chng anh nng dn, ng nh giu nhng gia ti cho v dn li mt s
iu, khi ng cht, gia nh cn thc hin: khng cho con gi no v ct tc tang, a m, cn ngi
con du nui hy sinh bn m tc di mua cha, nay khng phi ct tc tang.
Khi ng cht, 5 ngi con gi rt hi hn, vn v a ma cha, nhng b m s vong linh ng khng
vui nn ngoi khn tang, cn x cho mi a mt mnh vi che mt giu cha. Ngi con du khng
phi che mt. T , ngi ta bt chc tang nh vy.
Hoc cn c theo lch s, mt s nh vua ch ng rt ngn thi hn tang cho nhn dn kh.
Vic lm y ( b nhiu nh nho ln n) thc cht l xut pht t lng thng dn rt ng qu.
[81]
Hoi sc: mu khng ti.

[82]
Chy n: mt hnh thc cng l c din li s tch nh Pht, c c kinh (gn nh ht), c ng
tc, di chuyn (gn nh ma)
[83]
L tn gi tt mt x nghip dt t nhn (Socit Industriel1e de Textile dAnnam, c ngha l
Hip hi k ngh dt min Trung).
[84]
T trc ti nay, nhiu ngi vit l trn th v cho rng n xut pht t cu ca dao Ba nm
trn th lu n. Nhng ng ra phi vit chn th. o chn th c ngha l o ct tay.
[85]
Trang phc Qun i nhn dn Vit Nam, qun hiu eo trc m lm bng ng hnh trn
trn c mu nn v hnh v tng trng cho tng qun chng khc nhau (nh lc qun, khng qun, hi
qun). Ph hiu eo ve c o, thng lm bng vi hnh ch nht cho (5,5 x 3,5cm) trn c nn
ph hiu v hnh ph hiu. Trc kia, trn ph hiu hoc trn hoc c mt s lng ngi sao ch r
cp bc ngi eo. Nay c hnh ph hiu vi cc hnh khc nhau phn bit cc binh chng v ngnh
ngh chuyn mn trong qun i.
[86]
Quyt nh ca B trng Quc phng, t nm 1983 n 1985, trong qun i dn dn s mc
qun phc thng dng K82. Nhng trong thi gian qu , c mc xen k qun phc kiu c cho n
khi c qui nh mi. y ch gii thiu qun phc K82.
[87]
Mc qun phc ma h lc thng c i dp cao su en, nu, dp nha mu trng, nu, xanh
l cy.
[88]
Lc qun: mu xanh l cy. Hi qun, Khng qun: mu tm than.
[89]
c i giy vi; giy da en, da nu; giy cao c, ngn c, ng cao, ng ngn.
[90]
L ln, k c trong nc v ngoi nc gm: L Quc t Lao ng, L Quc khnh, L k nim
ngy thnh lp Qun i, i hi ng ton quc, L quc tang.
[91]
Thi gian ny, b cp thng t.