www.partsdrop.

com (201-387-7776)
Drawn from a series of Articles first published in ENX Magazine (www.enxmag.com)

Xerox 7120 style Fuser Modules

Repairing and rebuilding the fusers for the
WC-7120, 7125, 7220, 7225
The WorkCentre 7120 series is a group of
full color pure-breed Xerox machines which are
worthy of our attention. These fellows share a lot of
7120 style Fuser Module
the basic design hallmarks of the 7425 style although
they land on a slightly lower pricing level. As is usually the case, the fuser module is an important
component which is pricy enough to warrant rebuilding. This fuser is slightly simpler than the 7425
fusers we covered in the past two articles I think we can tackle this one in one article.
The 7120 fuser look very similar to the 7425 style fuser at first glance, and the basic design is
pretty close, at least in concept. If youve read the 7425 fuser rebuild articles, this procedure will
look familiar. In spite of the similar design however, the components dont cross over for the most
part. For example, the Fuser Heat Roller is considerably shorter on the 7120.
The WorkCentre 7120 and 7125 were released first, and they are joined now by the newer
WC-7220 and 7225 models. The fuser module which fits all 4 models, is sold under the part number
008R13087 for the 110 volt version (overseas the 220 volt version is 008R13088). It has a stated
yield of 80K according to some online sources although the OEM brochure doesnt say. Pricing
online ranges between $350.- and $500.-. The Fuser Heat Roller isnt spared in the OEM Parts
Book but thankfully some good compatible Fuser Heat Rollers have recently surfaced which make
this fuser rebuildable.
Lets get start by getting oriented
check out photo #1. The Rear End is the
end with the Heat Roll Drive Gear and the
main Fuser Connector. The Outer Face
is the side which would face you if you
were to walk up to the machine to remove
the fuser and the Inner Face is the
opposite side. The Top is where youll

Photo #1: Orientation

find the yellow Fuser Exit Guide.

Now lets get right down to it:
PROCEDURE:
1.)

First remove the Outer Cover (2 screws - 5.5 mm

nut driver or #1 Philips Head) the screw near the
front end also retains a small square cover (take that
off now because it will fall off easily). Swing the
yellow exit guide all the way open. As you jiggle the
Outer Cover off, be gentle at the Rear End, because
there are wires going to the Fuser Exit Sensor which is
mounted on the Outer Cover (see Photo #2) You
will need to raise the rear end off and disconnect the
connector from that sensor.
Photo #2: Removing Outer Covers
Page 1 of 3

www.partsdrop.com (201-387-7776)
Drawn from a series of Articles first published in ENX Magazine (www.enxmag.com)

2.) Remove the small rear end cover which also faces the Outer Face (1 screw).
3.) Next flip the module over and take off the Inner Cover (3 screws - refer to photo #3). Watch
out near the front end, there is a small Tensioner Arm which serves as a catch for the yellow
exit guide. This piece can fall right off of the Inner Cover at this point. (see photo #4)
Now you can see the Thermistor / Thermostat Assembly which is beneath the Inner Cover.

Photo #3: Inner Cover (3 screws)

Photo #4: This piece falls off easily

Photo #5: Release the Front Lamp

Terminal from the Thermostat.
4.) Release the front Thermostat (2 screws #1 Phillips-Head) and pull the Fuser Heat
Lamp terminal from the spade lug on the
Thermostat (refer to Photo #5).
5.) Mark the position of the Heat Roll
Stripper Guide (black plastic). You can
mark it using a pen or marker on the
metal frame (see Photo #6) The idea is
to make it easy to put the part back in the
same place later when you go to
reassemble everything (if this stripper is
riding on the heat roll it will damage it
and if its too far away, paper jams will
result.

Photo #6: Mark the position of the Heat Roll

Stripper Plate before removing it.

NOTE: Steps 6 through 9 will help clear

a little bit of room for the Heat Lamp to
shift towards the rear end of the fuser
about 3 mm which is just enough to free
up the lamps wires from the metal frame
at the front end.

Page 2 of 3

Photo #7: Screw locations

www.partsdrop.com (201-387-7776)
Drawn from a series of Articles first published in ENX Magazine (www.enxmag.com)

6.) Release the Connector Holder Frame which is a small metal frame on the rear end which holds
the Main Fuser Connector (2 screws marked A1 & A2 on Photo #7). Once that is
released, you can remove the Fuser CRUM Board
(that has a single 30mA pico-fuse on it for
resetting the fuser counter).
7.) Next release the black plastic wire guide which
is found just below the Connector Holder Frame
if you look at Photo #7 (1 screw marked B).
8.) Also release the Rear Lamp Holder Frame (1
screw found approximately where the arrow
marked C is pointing on Photo #7). This piece
secures the lamps rear ceramic end.
9.) Finally remove the Exit Idler Gear Bracket (2
screws marked D1 & D2 on Photo #7).
10.) Release the Thermistor / Thermostat Assembly (5
screws - #1 Phillips) and move it so that you can
shift the Heat Lamp towards the rear just far
enough that the 2 front blue wires from the lamp
Photo #8: Free the front Lamp Wires
will clear the metal frame (see Photo #8).
11.) Take note of how far the Fuser Pressure Screws
protrude down below the frame (count threads or
mark them so when you reassemble later, you can
return the pressure back to where it was. (The
example fuser which I used to produce this article
had 6 threads showing below the frame on both
ends). Then back out both Pressure Screws and
hinge the Pressure Sleeve Assembly up and off of
its hinge pins.
12.) Now the Fuser Heat Roll Assembly can be lifted
out of its cradle. Slide it off of the Front end of
the Heat Lamp (see Photo #9).
13.) Re-use the existing Heat Roll Bearings these
can be very stubborn both coming off of the
old roller and going onto the new one. You will
need to use large mouth pliars or a similar tool
and a hammer to tap the old bearings off (See
Photo #10)

Photo #9: Slide the Heat Roll off

towards the front over the heat lamp

That should do the trick!

Photo #10: Bearing Removal

Page 3 of 3