Professional Documents
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uk
Scottish Highlands
Into the countryside of
Macbeth and Nessie Stonehenge
to the Globe
Our obsession with
round buildings
Richmond
The town shaped by
Norman Conquest
Maritime heritage
Liverpools legacy
Cavalier spirit
English Civil War in Newark
Somerset Levels
Wonderful wildlife, myths 4.50
PLUS Top five British beaches; Amy Johnson, heroine of the skies; tennis at Eastbourne
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Contents
82
66
54
34
23
24 60
24 FEATURES
SOMERSET LEVELS 54 60
EASTBOURNE TENNIS
Stephen Moss visits this rolling
landscape of diverse beauty CUNARD LINE ANNIVERSARY As the tennis season begins, why
David Atkinson visits Liverpool to explore its not take in the action from a
courtside spot at Devonshire Park
42
maritime history and mark the 175th anniversary
of Cunards transatlantic liners Lawn Tennis Club. Plus, enter our
34
competition to win a three-night
break in Eastbourne with Centre
BARBOUR Court tickets to the tennis
Discover enduring designs as we
66
take a closer look at the history of
this celebrated clothing brand
46 NEWARK
Nottinghamshires newest visitor
RICHMOND CASTLE
Sheena Harvey uncovers tales of
Norman Conquest, an
CIRCULAR BUILDINGS attraction, the National Civil War imposing fortress and scenes
Nik Rawlinson admires Englands painted by JMW Turner around
round buildings from Stonehenge Centre, defines the events of this the ancient Yorkshire market
to Shakespeares Globe historic English conflict town of Richmond
Contentss WIN
A LU X U R Y S T
MANCHESTAEY IN
91
ESCAPE SEE PAGE 15R
72
DAYS OUT
Windsor Castles Waterloo
INVERNESS-SHIRE REGULARS
16
exhibition, top beaches to laze
upon and Sir Edward Heaths Try and spot Nessie from Urquhart
former home, Arundells Castle on the edge of Loch Ness
REVIEWS
82
The latest books and
DVDs on Britain
WHY
INVERNESS-SHIRE?
Home to countless castles, the
23
Cairngorms National Park and THE INTERN
a malt whisky trail, why not? Helen Ochyra joins viticulturist
Jac Evans at Llaethliw
84
vineyard in West Wales,
where award-winning wines
are produced and enjoyed
ESSENTIAL
EXPERIENCES
Our selection of things to see
and do, from Loch Ness to
98
Culloden Battlefield
GREAT BRITISH
ADVENTURERS
93
COMPETITION
87 Remembering the bravery
of pioneering aviator Amy
Johnson CBE, the first woman
Jo
tto complete a solo flight from
Win a luxury two-night break Britain to Australia
for two at The Grant Arms
98
Hotel in the Highlands
DEPARTMENTS
07
17 72 EDITORS NOTE
08
LETTERS
11
ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES; ROBERT HARDING
NEWS
17
WHATS ON
97
CROSSWORD
LUNDY
THE UNIQUE ISLAND EXPERIENCE
EDITORIAL
Editor Sheena Harvey
Deputy Editor Vicky Sartain
Staff Writer Angharad Moran
Art Editor Jeremy Bird
Welcome
MUCH OF THE HISTORY OF THE THREE COUNTRIES
ADVERTISING
Account Manager Daniel Martin that make up Great Britain has been defined by
Tel: 01242 264 781; daniel.martin@chelseamagazines.com
Account Manager Amy Stokes
struggles for supremacy between internal political
Tel: 01242 264 785; amy.stokes@chelseamagazines.com factions, from the clans of Scotland to the gentry
MANAGEMENT
Managing Director Paul Dobson
of the English counties. These wars have left their
Deputy Managing Director Steve Ross legacy across the land in the form of
Commercial Director Vicki Gavin
Publisher Simon Temlett evocative battlefields and castles that
Digital Marketing Manager James Dobson
Circulation Manager William Delmont have nothing to do with defending our
ONLINE people from invading outsiders.
Digital Product Manager Oliver Morley-Norris
Digital Marketing Co-ordinator Andreea Dragoi In this issue we visit the sites of some
Digital Executive Scarlett Lill
Digital Marketing Executive Jennifer Cruickshank
of these major conflicts. Representing
PRINTING the 11th-century disputes between the
William Gibbons Ltd
supporters of the new Norman regime
SUBSCRIPTIONS
UK Discover Britain, CDS Global, Sovereign Park, Market and those of the old Anglo-Saxon
Harborough LE16 9EF
Tel: 0844 848 8053, Fax: 01858 434 958
nobility, there is Richmond Castle (see page 66).
Subscription rates: Subscribe for one year for 33 The struggle between the Royalists and the
(6 issues) or for two years (12 issues) for 66
BACK ISSUES
Cavaliers in the English Civil War is epitomised by
4.50. Tel: 020 7349 3700 Charles Is stronghold of Newark, Nottinghamshire,
PUBLISHING OFFICE
The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House,
with its mighty castle. This was ordered to be
2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ destroyed by Oliver Cromwell but still has walls
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Email: info@chelseamagazines.com standing today. A new museum has now opened to
Printed in England ISSN 0950-5245
commemorate those times (turn to page 34).
News distribution: Seymour, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London
EC1A 9PT. Tel: 020 7429 4000 The Somerset Levels, that famous haven of
The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2015. All rights
wildlife and location of the mystical Glastonbury
reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must
not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The Tor, also hosted the last pitched battle on English
information in Discover Britain has been published in good
faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. soil, between the armies of the Catholic King James
However, where appropriate, you are advised to check prices,
opening times and dates, etc, before making final arrangements. II and his Protestant illegitimate nephew, the Duke
All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage
caused by reliance on the information within this publication is of Monmouth (see page 24).
hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by the contributors of
Discover Britain are not necessarily those of the publisher.
www.chelseamagazines.com
Further forward in time and much further north
we visit the Highlands around Inverness for the site
of the very last battle to be fought on British soil
between the exhausted Jacobite forces of Bonnie
Prince Charlie and the much fresher troops of the
English Duke of Cumberland in 1746 (see page 85).
On the cover:
Dundon Hill, Compton SHEENA HARVEY Editor
Dundon on the
ALAN HARVEY
Your words
Let us know your thoughts on the magazine. The writer of each letter published receives a prize
A NICE
SURPRISE
Although Ive
been hugely
enjoying the
BBCs new series
of Poldark, I had
no idea one of
the main filming
locations can
be found in the
county where I
live until I read
an article on
your website!
(Gloucestershires
Chavenage
FAIR ASSESSMENT House doubles
HOT PROPERTIES
I was amazed to read about Fair Isle (The Fairest Isle It was lovely to read about the
as Poldarks history of the Landmark Trust
of All, April/May 2015) and the small community Trenwith, www. and the interesting collection of
of people living there. The images in your magazine discoverbritain buildings it cares for (Landmark
made it look like an island paradise but Im not sure mag.com). Its a Occasion, April/May 2015). My
I could live such a cut-off lifestyle, nor would I have shame the house husband and I have already
isnt open to stayed in a couple of the
the skills that the islanders seem to have in turning
visitors all year Landmark Trusts holiday lets
their hand to whatever task faces them! They must round, but I will and we will hopefully be adding
be commended for their community spirit, but be making a trip to that list before too long
Im sure the beauty of the island outweighs the there soon. with a stay at one of its smaller
difficulties of living in such a place. JANET HARDING, properties in Wales.
MARK JOHNSON, BY EMAIL GLOUCESTERSHIRE Its encouraging to hear that
even more places with a huge
amount of history behind them
VITAL STATISTICS are about to be saved by the
You reported that the Duke and Trust, as we might otherwise lose
Duchess of Cambridge have spent these charming sites to more
an estimated 1.5m putting their modern developments.
stamp on their new home (A Royal MRS D JENKINS, POOLE
Address, February/March 2015). The
GETTY IMAGES; ROGER ERITJA / ROBERTHARDING; LANDMARK TRUST
ARCHAEOLOGY
Medieval
marvel
Rare devotional panel
now on display at
Museum of London
Archaeologists from MOLA
(Museum of London
Archaeology) have discovered a
medieval panel in remarkable
condition by the River Thames.
The Thomas, Earl of Lancaster
panel depicts the capture, trial
and execution of this political
rebel turned martyr, who tried
to force Edward II to reform his
government. After Thomass
execution in 1322 miracles
RESTORATION
began to take place around
his tomb.
GRAND PLANS The panel, cast in metal and
approx 130mm x 90mm, is a
New Alexandra Park and Palace redevelopment project will focus on fascinating piece of political
propaganda and religious art.
areas of the historic palace that have been derelict for over 30 years Sophie Jackson, MOLA
archaeologist, says: Its thanks
The Victorian theatre and BBC Studios at Alexandra Palace are just two to the wet ground of the
of the areas that will be regenerated with the help of new funding. Thames waterfront that this
The BBC studios were the birthplace of high-definition television beautiful metal object survived
in such remarkable condition. It
broadcasts in 1936 and will now be turned into an interactive attraction reveals a great deal about the
where visitors can learn more about the art of making TV programmes. political climate of the day.
The Palaces Victorian hidden theatre dates back to 1875 and is set to The panel is now on display at
the Museum of London until 28
play host to theatrical performances and cinema screenings once the new September 2015.
project is completed in 2018. www.alexandrapalace.com www.museumoflondon.org.uk
NEW TOUR
Golden opportunity
A new 7.7m visitor centre will include the creation of an
interactive museum experience that will explore The Royal
Mints prestigious history. Visitors will also be able to take a
unique tour of the facility, the first time the site has ever
officially opened its doors to the public in its 1,100-year history.
Among highlights of the purpose-built centre will be the
chance to strike your own coin. The project is due to be
completed in spring 2016. www.royalmint.com
In brief
War paint
A collection of humorous cartoons by
William Heath Robinson has been saved
for the nation, including many of his most
well-known First and Second World War
drawings and paintings. One of the
leading illustrators of his day, Heath
Robinson was famous for his drawings of
complicated contraptions. During both
World Wars his ironic and bizarre
depictions of conflict and gentle satire of
public figures were extremely popular.
The William Heath Robinson Trust has
been able to acquire 410 drawings and
paintings, due to go on public display in
RESTORATION
Greater London from April 2016.
ADDED EXTRAS
www.westhousepinner.com
Writing history
The desk on which Great Expectations, Our
New 17m restoration project will see County Durhams Mutual Friend and The Mystery of Edwin
impressive Auckland Castle restored to its former glory Drood were written is now on show at the
former London home of Charles Dickens.
A two-storey extension, remodelling of the 16th-century The desk was passed through the Dickens
Scotland Wing and an immersive new museum experience will family after the authors death, before
being auctioned for the Great Ormond
be introduced as part of the work to be carried out at Auckland
Street Charitable Trust. The desk now takes
Castle, the 800-year-old former palace of the Prince Bishops pride of place at the Charles Dickens
of Durham. The new extension will be designed by Niall Museum.
McLaughlin Architects and will reflect the castles religious www.dickensmuseum.com
background, echoing wooden Anglo Saxon churches of the 6th Take to the water
and 7th centuries. Meanwhile, the new museum will look at A kickstarter campaign has been launched
to try and raise funds for the Thames Baths
mans relationship with belief across the British Isles. Planning project. If successful, the project will
consent has also been granted for a new welcome building that section off a small part of the River
will offer panoramic views across the surrounding area. Thames in London to create a new natural
lido where the public will be able to swim
The renovation project forms part of a wider heritage-led
safely. To donate towards the scheme, visit
social regeneration initiative for the North East. www.thamesbaths.com
www.aucklandcastle.org
RESTORATION
Timeless classic
Queens House in Greenwich to undergo
refurbishment in time for 400th anniversary
Queens House in Greenwich will be closing to the
public on 27 July 2015 in order to undergo
refurbishment and is due to reopen on 4 July 2016 in
time to mark its 400th anniversary.
Designed by Inigo Jones in 1616 for Anne of
Denmark, wife of James I, the Queens House was the
first classical building in the country. Following the
refurbishment, visitors will be able to see Orazio
Gentileschis Joseph and Potiphars Wife painting (left)
displayed in the building for the first time since 1650.
www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house
Towering
ATTRACTION
success Turn
National Trust for Scotland
acquires first new
back time
property in seven years The National Trusts Upton
House in Warwickshire turns
The 14th-century Alloa Tower
in Clackmannanshire is the
back the clock to 1939 when
latest property to be acquired the Bearsted family moved
by The National Trust for out and their merchant bank
Scotland. The Tower is the moved in
ancestral home of the Erskine
During 2015-16 12 rooms within
family, the Earls of Mar and Upton House will recreate a
Kellie. It is the largest, oldest compelling picture of what life was
keep in Scotland and was like at the property during the
originally built to guard the Second World War, when, driven by
nearby ferry crossing on the the need to protect staff and assets
River Forth. www.nts.org.uk from the London air raids, the
family-owned bank took over the
elegant mansion.
GALLERY The move was at the forefront of
Government planning before war was
BREATHING SPACE
even announced, with the Chancellor
of the Exchequer demanding the
banking sector be resilient enough to
York Art Gallery is to be transformed to include more exhibition withstand threats to London from
expected air raids.
space and will house major touring displays for the first time Visitors to Upton House and
Gardens are transported back to
New commissions, Old Masters and more than 2,000 ceramic
wartime Britain and can discover
works will feature in York Art Gallerys new displays of where bank staff slept in shared
designated collections when it reopens on 1 August 2015. dormitories; where armed
servicemen guarded prisoners of war
Two new spaces on the first floor will become the Centre of
working in the grounds, and where
Ceramic Art, which will be home to the largest collection of the typing pool staff worked
British studio ceramics in the world. The new centre will include surrounded by some of the nations
most treasured works of art in the
a 17-metre-long Wall of Pots, which will be displayed by colour
long gallery.
to create a rainbow effect, as It is the first time this episode
well as a major new commission in the propertys history has been
fully relayed to visitors. Rachel
by renowned ceramist Clare
OConnor-Boyd, Upton House
Twomey. Collections Manager, comments:
The development will also This is a fascinating story and a
significant part of the history of
include an artists garden created
Upton House. The story and the
at the rear of the gallery in a impact on the lives of those involved
space previously closed to the deserves to be told.
public, linking to the existing www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ upton-house
LIFE OF LUXURY
A Victorian sea fort has been inventively transformed
into a luxury hotel off the coast of Portsmouth
No Mans Fort was one of four forts built to defend the south
coast from French invaders and it has now been converted into
a 22-bedroom hotel in a multi-million pound project. The fort
joins the smaller Spitbank Fort which was refurbished as a hotel
in 2012 and holds eight bedrooms.
Facilities at No Mans include a spa, shops, restaurants, sea golf
and rooftop hot tubs. Guests can also enjoy wine tasting, sea
kayaking and kite surfing among other activities during their
stay on this secluded off-shore escape.
www.amazingvenues.co.uk/solent-forts
RESEARCH
Bones of
contention
Museum of London research
examines the historic effects of
industrialisation on Londoners
A ground-breaking research project by the
Museum of London hopes to uncover new
clues about the nature of disease and how it
has affected people as Britain has moved
into the age of industrialisation.
The museum will use the latest clinical
SEAN ELLIOTT PHOTOGRAPHY; NATIONAL TRUST; NTS; CROWN COPYRIGHT REPRODUCED COURTESY OF HISTORIC SCOTLAND
techniques, including digital X-Ray
scanning, to get a better understanding of
what the bones in its collection tell us and to
assess their change over time.
www.museumoflondon.org.uk
ARCHIVE
P
rolific architect Edwin Lutyens designed the striking bank BY POST: Send your answer, name and contact details to Hotel Gotham
building, which now houses Hotel Gotham, in 1928, during competition, Discover Britain magazine, Archant House, Oriel Road,
a boom-time when Manchester was at the forefront of Cheltenham GL50 1BB.
industry. Creating the Modern Classical masterpiece ONLINE: Visit www.discoverbritainmag.com and click on Competitions &
illustrated the prominence and success of a city on the up, realised Offers to enter the competition online.
in a towering edifice of Portland stone and arched windows. It was
the talk of the town when it opened in 1935, and even today, TERMS & CONDITIONS: Entry closing date 31 August 2015. Prize must be claimed and
used by 31 January 2016. Subject to availability. No cash alternative. Any additional costs to
remains one of the regions most impressive buildings. be paid by winner. Non-transferable. Employees (and relatives) of The Chelsea Magazine
Painstakingly restored, Hotel Gotham has been transformed from Company are not eligible to enter. Winners names may be published. By entering this
competition you agree and acknowledge that The Chelsea Magazine Company is permitted
its formal past into a handsome, five-star, 60-room hotel at its to receive your registration data.
central 100 King Street address. Owners, Bespoke Hotels, have set
the bar high with the aim of making this fun, witty destination the
sexiest hotel in Europe. With lavish interiors evoking film noir
intrigue, rooms are suitably decorated in muted colours with Art HOW TO ENTER
Deco-inspired features, complete with staff nattily dressed in Which style of architecture is the Hotel Gotham building?
uniforms inspired by the 1930s. A Tudor B Art Deco C Jacobean
Guests can dine in the top-floor restaurant, lounge in the private
bar, or step outside onto the terraces for drinks and to survey the NAME .................................................................................................................
citys skyline, an even more special experience after dark. ADDRESS ............................................................................................................
Find out more at www.bespokehotels.com/hotelgotham
............................................................................................................................
MARK LEEMING
SOUTH
BENEDICT RUBBRA
Until 2 August
Spanning four decades of work, Benedict
Rubbra: Eye to Image follows the Devon-based
FASHION MUSEUM / BATH & NORTH EAST SOMERSET COUNCIL; NHM, LONDON; ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM, UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD
GREAT NAMES
OF FASHION CORAL
Until 3 January 2016 REEFS
Bursting at the seams with gowns Until 13 September
designed by the likes of Christian Dior, A vibrant underwater world is revealed in
this exhibition resembles the walk-in Coral Reefs: Secret Cities of the Sea, with
wardrobe of every girls dreams. Great over 200 specimens displayed, from tiny
Names of Fashion charts the use of sponge crabs to giant Turbinaria coral. Look
fabric from the 20th century to today. out for specimens originally collected by
Charles Darwin on the HMS Beagle.
Fashion Museum, Bath
Tel: 01225 477 789; www. Natural History Museum, London
fashionmuseum.co.uk Tel: 020 7942 5000; www.nhm.ac.uk
GREAT EXHIBITION
27 June 27 September
A range of rare items linked to Lincolnshires
history go on display to celebrate Magna Cartas
800th anniversary as part of Lincolnshires Great
Exhibition. The exhibition draws from private,
national and international collections to tell the story
of the county with the help of principle sponsor The
David Ross Foundation.
The Collection, Lincoln
Tel: 01522 782 040; www.thecollectionmuseum.com
FRANCIS BACON
Until 26 July
View major works by Francis Bacon
alongside old and modern masters,
including Rembrandt, Titian, Picasso,
Michelangelo and Van Gogh. Francis
THE ESTATE OF FRANCIS BACON. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, DACS 2015; RIBA
MAKING
MONUMENTS
ON RAPA NUI
Until 6 September
The huge stone statues of Rapa
Nui (Easter Island) are some
of the worlds most widely
recognised archaeological objects.
Making Monuments on Rapa PICTURING
Nui: The Statues from Easter VENICE
ADAM STANFORD; NATIONAL MUSEUMS LIVERPOOL; RHS
MUSICAL EISTEDDFOD
6-12 July
More than just a renowned choral music festival,
Llangollen International Musical Eisteddfod is a
celebration of music, dance, costume and culture
from nations around the world. Evening concerts
range from performances by Burt Bacharach and
SCOTLAND Gareth Malones Voices choir to the sounds of
South America along with music from screen and stage.
& WALES Llangollen, Denbighshire
Tel: 01978 862 001; www.international-eisteddfod.co.uk
JAPANESE PORCELAIN
Until 30 August
This small exhibition takes a look at the giants
of the Japanese ceramic industry. In 1890 the
Japanese government instigated the Imperial
Household Artists system to recognise and
support mature artists who had achieved a level
of success within their respective crafts. Masters
of Japanese Porcelain highlights the ceramics
works of such artists formed over half a century.
National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh
Tel: 0300 123 6789; www.nms.ac.uk/
national-museum-of-scotland
JOUST!
20-21 June
Get swept up in the excitement of this
medieval Joust! event with galloping horses,
parades, stunts and fierce competition. Cheer
for your favourite knight in shining armour
as The Knights of Royal England put on a
spectacular display amid a merry mix of
fanfares and frivolity!
Cardiff Castle, Wales
Tel: 029 2087 8100; www.cardiffcastle.com
NATIONAL
AIRSHOW
ERIC RAY DAVIDSON; NATIONAL MUSEUMS SCOTLAND
25 July
Barrel rolls and loop the loops will be in abundance
as aircraft from all eras take to the skies along with
the RAFs Red Arrows who will be wowing the
crowds with their daring aerobatic flight displays.
View the RAFs supersonic Typhoon, a powerful
combat aircraft that can fly at twice the speed of
sound, and other iconic heritage aircraft at Scotlands
National Airshow.
National Museum of Flight, East Lothian
Tel: 0300 123 6789; www.nms.ac.uk
The exhibition features around 270 fashionable styles, but it seems to be restricting or impractical shoes, which
pairs of shoes, both mens and womens, is really interesting. I cant see a change
spanning 2,000 years of shoe history there at all.
across the world; from Japan, China
and the Middle East to Europe and Q What can we learn from shoes?
native American. Many of the shoes Shoes are surprisingly complex its an
have never been on display. In interesting social history behind them.
addition we have generous loans from Theyre not just frivolous girls dreams;
private collections around the world. they have a very complex history and
we seem to have a complex relationship
Q How do the mens shoes compare with them. They link the human drive
to the womens? to elevate themselves and stand out
Some of the mens shoes are much in a crowd across different cultures.
more spectacular than the womens
shoes. For example, we have a pair V&A, Cromwell Road, London
of Prada mens golf shoes. They are SW7 2RL; Tel: 020 7942 2000;
called golf shoes, but I would love www.vam.ac.uk
A good vintage
HELEN OCHYRA is on a mission to find Britains best job. This time she
heads to a vineyard in Wales to help tend the next generation of saplings
L
laethliw vineyard won an
award with their very first
crop. The white won a
bronze award with the UK
Vineyards Association, viticulturist Jac
Evans tells me. That was amazing.
Amazing indeed. Just seven years
ago this vineyard in West Wales was a
grassy field the Evans family rented to
a local farmer. Today it is planted with
some 5,000 vines, joining a growing
number of vineyards around England
and Wales to produce quality wines.
Theres always something to
do, says Jac with a smile. We do
everything ourselves. We planted the
vines, we prune them, we pick the
grapes and cut the grass.
When Jac says we, he means not
only the family but also the local
community. People turned up in droves
last harvest season to help pick the
It is spellbinding to think this seemingly
grapes, he tells me. Everyone worked barren cane will become a ourishing vine
really hard, but it was fun. We all had a
nice supper together afterwards with more hacking back than I would have
a glass of wine, of course. imagined. In fact, we end up with what
I am promised that my day will Above: Seven acres appears to be little more than a stump.
DOUGLAAS WHELPDALE
end with a glass of wine too. And so I of prime Welsh It is spellbinding to think this seemingly
vineyard.
happily head out with Jac to help prune barren cane will in just a few months
Below: Helen assists
the vines. There are seven acres of them Jac Evans with become a flourishing vine.
and getting them into pre-growing- pruning and training Harvesting takes place in autumn,
season shape turns out to involve far the young vines but the exact timing is down to the
vines, or more specifically the sugar
level in their grapes.
So, can Wales really produce a FAST FACTS
quality wine? Back in the farmhouse, Open: Llaethliw
we taste Llaethliws range. The Solaris winery tours will
is a dry and gently perfumed white begin this year.
that would match up to lobster; the Stay: The
Rondo a full-bodied red I can imagine Harbourmaster
pairing with steak. But the ros is the (www.harbour-
real surprise; not at all too sweet, it is master.com) in
delicious, and my personal favourite. Aberaeron has
So, can I buy some? We sold out before rooms from 110
Christmas last year, says Jac, this B&B.
year we hope to produce more. Id love Contact: 01545
to be able to produce 100,000 bottles a 571 879; www.
year. Thats the plan. Q llaethliw.co.uk
Outside Classroom
Unique Basket Museum
Wetlands Exhibition
Willow & Wetlands Walks
FR PE SA TO
EE N M TUR 5:00
O
TO AM
ENOND DAY PM
9:
30
Charles and Allison Crisp welcome you to Town Mills in the heart of the
TR AY
Park. This charming converted mill house built in 1780 retains many of the
original features making Town Mills a delightful place to stay. There are
5 restaurants within a two minute walk including Woods which has been
DZDUGHGWKHEHVWZLQHSXELQWKH8.IRUHDFKRIWKHODVWYH\HDUV
Meare Green Court, Stoke St Gregory, Taunton, TA3 6HY E: Townmillsdulverton@gmail.com
T: + 44 (0)1398 323 124
www.englishwillowbaskets.co.uk
www.townmillsdulverton.co.uk
Follow us on
Somerset Levels
PLACES TO STAY www.visitsomerset.co.uk formed medieval city of Wells is less than half an hours drive
THE GEORGE INN, Wedmore. away. The main attraction here is the cathedral, which dates
PLACES TO EAT
A friendly gastropub back to the 12th century. As the historian Arthur Mee wrote
THE SEXEYS ARMS,
with rooms from 80- in his 1941 book The Kings England Somerset: The shape
Blackford.
100 per night. www. of it all, the skyline with the open parapets, the lightness of
Quaint village pub with
thegeorgewedmore.co.uk this structure that has stood on the watery soil of Wells since
great value, home-cooked
the days before Agincourt, are not to be forgotten.
THE SWAN, Wedmore. food. www.sexeysarms.
Alongside the cathedral is the Bishops Palace, an equally
This pub/restaurant has moonfruit.com
ancient building set inside a huge walled quadrangle and
rooms from 85-125 THE GEORGE , Wedmore. surrounded by a moat. Look out for kingfishers that regularly
per night. www. Great gastropub. www. perch on the stone wall by the moat, or the swan that comes
theswanwedmore.com thegeorgewedmore.co.uk to feed when summoned by a bell.
THE SWAN HOTEL , Wells. RICHS CIDER FARM, Mark. Both Wells and Wedmore, a thriving village a few miles
This large, city centre hotel Good, home-cooked to the west, are full of interesting shops and places to eat
offers rooms from 100- breakfasts and lunches. and drink, before you summon the energy to head out once
200 per night. www. www.richscider.co.uk/ again to explore the flat but beguiling landscape that is the
swanhotelwells.co.uk restaurant.html Somerset Levels. Q
MARCH OF PROGRESS
years. Originally intended as a palace for Bishop Alexander
of Lincoln, the building brought Newark its first taste of
notoriety when King John died there in 1216 shortly after
At the National Civil War Centre in Newark, the stage is
losing the Crown Jewels in the Wash. Dysentery was the
diagnosis, the King having apparently overdosed on peaches,
set for the all-action drama of 17th-century conflict
though poisoning was also alleged. No stranger to the sound of musket-fire, Newark returns
The castle was subsequently home to assorted aristocracy to the memory of its past with the opening of the
until the eruption of the English Civil War in 1642; indeed, National Civil War Centre. Housed in a Grade II-listed
much of modern-day Newark was shaped by the conflict, former school building dating to 1529, the 5.4m centre
making the town the natural choice for the new National explores how the war shook the political and social
Civil War Centre, opened in early May 2015 (see side panel). landscape, examining its impact on the lives of ordinary
Its position at the crossroads of the Fosse Way and the families, as well as the military and politicians.
Great North Road, and as a key crossing point of the River The permanent exhibition on the ground floor begins
Trent, gave the town huge strategic importance. at the Gunpowder Plot in 1605, examines the English Civil
It became the Royalist stronghold for the area and was War period itself and the three separate conflicts which
besieged three times during the nine-year conflict; a third of spanned 1642-1651, and concludes with the legacy of war.
the townsfolk died with many succumbing to plague (legend Visitors will be able to handle swords, pistols and
has it that flea-ridden rats were one of the few sources of muskets, and dress up in civilian and military clothes of the
meat). Cut off from the outside world, the people even time. Rare objects are on display, including a 1646 siege
brought in their own currency, fashioning diamond-shaped map and Newark siege pieces, as well as the currency
siege pieces from plate. minted in the castle when the town was cut off from the
Despite the appalling conditions, the town held out and rest of the country. Interactives give visitors the chance to
only surrendered, begrudgingly, on 6 May 1646, when be a gunner firing on the town from Beacon Hill.
ordered to do so by King Charles I from An overseas section looks at the experiences of the
his base at nearby Southwell. The fall of Above: Newarks
popular market is
men who, having fled religious persecutors in England,
Newark signalled the end for Charles, returned from the colonies to join the fight.
held most days.
who was executed on 30 January 1649. Allied to the permanent exhibition is the Newark
Below: Charles I
Connections with the conflict are Coffee House Civil War Trail app, which visitors can download to their
visible all around the smartphone or tablet. Users of the trail who
town. The NatWest wish to access new Augmented Reality content
Bank, on the corner can download the app, available for Apple and
of the Market Place Android devices, from the National Civil War
and Stodman Street, Centres website. Interpretation boards at eight
stands on the site of locations around Newark will explain how to
the home of Hercules trigger this exciting filmed content.
Clay, a merchant and In addition, a 40-seat cinema features short
a Mayor of Newark, films recreating events, such as the quarrel
who was so alarmed between Charles I and Prince Rupert, the story of
by dreams of his Hercules Clay, plus scenes of daily life at the time.
house engulfed in www.nationalcivilwarcentre.com
flames that he moved
Download Our
Augmented Reality
IN A WORLD Trail App
www.nationalcivilwarcentre.com
Newark
PLANNING
YOUR VISIT
GETTING THERE By car, Newark is
well located next to the A1 and A46
and has ample long-stay parking.
Newark is a 30-40 min drive from
Lincoln, Nottingham and Doncaster,
and an hour from Derby, Leicester
and Sheffield. By train, East Coast
Mainline services stop at Newark
Northgate station, which is 30
minutes from Lincoln, one hour from
Leeds and Sheffield, and 1 hours
from London. www.thetrainline.com
WHERE TO STAY A three-star
chain hotel with 32 rooms, Best
Western Deincourt is within easy
walking distance of Newarks shops,
restaurants, museums and castle.
Tel 01636 602 100;
www.bestwestern.co.uk
The Palladian town hall, built by John Carr Winner of five stars and a Gold
of York and a Grade I-listed building, also Award from the English Tourist
houses the town museum and art gallery on Board, Newark Lodge Guest House
the second floor with a collection including has ensuite rooms with king-size
Poppies by Sir Stanley Spencer and works by beds, free wi-fi and parking.
artist William Nicholson and sculptor Robert Tel: 01636 703 999;
Kiddey, both local-born. www.newarklodgeguesthouse.co.uk
Other notable local celebrities include
celebrated stage actor Donald Wolfit (1902-
A 12-room luxury hotel and
1968) and Lord Byron, whose first poems
recipient of a Trip Advisor certificate
were printed in the town, while four-times
of excellence for 2014, Kelham
Prime Minister William Gladstone was MP
House Country Manor Hotel is an
for Newark for 14 years.
Edwardian manor set in nine acres of
Up until the 1950s, Newarks brewing and malting industries, which
parkland two miles from Newark.
capitalised on a ready water supply from the river, plus excellent road and rail
Tel: 01636 705 266;
links, earned the town the title Metropolis of Malt Beer.
www.kelhamhouse.co.uk
Today, many of the breweries and malt houses have been converted into shops WHERE TO EAT Rushtons on
and homes, including the Town Wharf Brewery, now an apartment building but Stodman Street in Newark serves
still featuring the hoist used to haul sacks of grain. classic English and European cuisine,
The brewing tradition still survives, though on a smaller scale; Newark has using locally grown produce.
a blossoming micro-brewery sector and an award-winning micro-pub at Swan Tel: 01636 605 214;
and Salmon Yard. Many of Middle Gates outlets are independents and family- www.rushtonsbistro.co.uk
run businesses, and range from clothing to jewellery and furniture. Book lovers
DONT MISS Newark International
should head for Strays, which also boasts a fine coffee shop and jazz evenings.
Antiques and Collectors Fair is the
The indoor Buttermarket an extension of the town hall offers jewellery
largest event of its kind in Europe
stalls, card and gift shops, and there is a market every day except Sundays and
up to 2,500 stands attract thousands
Tuesdays with antiques and crafts on Mondays and Thursdays, plus a general
of dealers and buyers from around
market on other days. Newarks other claim to fame is as a major antiques
the globe every other month. The
centre. Newark Showground hosts an international Antiques and Collectors
next show dates are 4-5 June; 20-21
Fair six times a year and the town has at least 10 antiques shops. A good place
August; and 8-9 October.
to start exploring is the Newark Antiques Centre, a former
Top: Newark Town congregational church on Lombard Street with two floors of MORE INFORMATION Discover
Hall houses the art
furniture, jewellery, vintage clothing, silver, ceramics, clocks more about Newark and the
gallery and museum.
Above: Lord Byrons and more. Newarks past was indeed bloody but it also surrounding area at www.
first poems were makes this charming market town a place worthy of a visit experiencenottinghamshire.com, or
printed in the town for more than just good shopping. www.visit-newark.co.uk
ALAMY; STUART FORSTER/ROBERT HARDING; NOTTINGHAMSHIRE COUNTY COUNCIL; NEWARK TOWN COUNCIL; EXPERIENCE NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
following the path down to the riverside. opposite corner of the square and up old town wall as it made its way towards
Turn left and follow the length of the to St Mary Magdalene Church. At the the castle. It would have formed part of
castle wall. Small circular depressions tall chimney, turn right down an alley, the towns defences during the Civil War.
in the wall, mostly at head height, were onto Appleton Gate. Turn left and
caused by Parliamentary cannon fire. left again, and enter the Garden of INFORMATION
Remembrance and walk to the far right The walk: An easy trail for all abilities.
THE PRINCE RUPERT hand corner of the churchyard. Look up Parking: There are several car parks in
2
Follow the path around the castle, at the church spire. The hole visible in the town; visit www.carparkmaps.co.uk/
crossing over the wooden walkway and the spire marks the spot where the shot carparks/Newark
turning left up the path onto the main from a Parliamentarian cannon is said Distance: 1.5km. Time: 45 minutes Q
road. Turn right, walk for 50m and cross
the zebra crossing. Walk down Stodman
Street (to your left) to the Woolpack, the 0 100 200
sixth building on the right. Cross over. Metres
The 13th-century Prince Rupert pub
was originally built as a rich merchants
house. Continue along Stodman Street
until you come to NatWest Bank.
3
GOVERNORS HOUSE 7
Opposite is the Governors House
(Greggs), another timber-framed
merchants house. Due to its position 1
close to military HQ at the castle, it was 6
certain to have been commandeered
by the Royalist forces. Also, its proximity
to the church meant that a place
for worship and observation of the
4 5
enemy (from the steeple parapet) was 2
conveniently close. It was the Governors 3
House for the duration of the Civil War.
parliament.uk/visiting
020 7219 4114
Visit one of the worlds most iconic buildings
WAXING
LYRICAL The wheels of industry turn defiantly for many of Britains oldest
heritage firms, their names synonymous with quality. One such,
Barbour, has been clothing customers from fishermen to royalty
in outdoors kit for 120 years
WORDS VICKY SARTAIN
S
ay the name Barbour and thoughts
immediately turn to country
pursuits and the gentry. Indeed, this
quintessential British brand of fine
country clothing and accessories has long been
the choice of royalty and the well-heeled, with
a history spanning more than 120 years and a
global reach that includes a following of some
90,000 Twitter followers. The secret of its success
is undoubtedly its quality.
Classy advertising campaigns and collaborations
with uber-cool celebrities aside (actor Steve McQueen jackets is a nod to the familys
added instant glamour to Barbours range of Scottish heritage, though to
motorcycle jackets in the 1960s, further enhanced the South Shields community
for a new generation by supermodel and presenter they have long been part of the
Alexa Chung), this coveted label is actually grounded fold. A history of philanthropic
in practicality. Utility, functionality and durability gestures in local politics and
may not be the sexiest words on the high street, and charity work has not been
possibly not high on the list of demands of many forgotten and those caring
devotees whose lifestyles are more city than national principles are upheld in the
park, but nonetheless Barbours roots run deep in business under the current
the gritty South Shields soil, where the company was leadership of chairman, Dame
established in 1894. Margaret Barbour, who took the
The principles of the family-owned and run reins 41 years ago following the
business remain the same as when John Barbour untimely death of her husband,
opened his first store in South Shields Market Place. John, great-grandson of the
The Scotsman saw an opportunity to kit out the industrial founder. Championing the brand, Dame Margaret was the
workers of the region, whose livelihoods as fishermen, first woman to have real influence in the companys direction
miners, agricultural workers and stevedores kept them at the alongside her late mother-in-law, Nancy Barbour.
mercy of the elements. Weatherproof clothing was imperative The factory floor is where the action happens. A sea of
for this sector and early promotion of the brand appealed machinists engaged in various tasks combine their skills to
solely to these labourers. Customer catalogues from 1908 create approximately 3,000 jackets per week. Their efficiency
reveal illustrations of heroic-looking men clad in the latest is a sight to behold. The journey begins at the neatly stacked
Barbour offering for foul weather on land or at sea and the sheets of pre-waxed cotton, leading on to the pattern-cutting
iconic South Shields beacon was adopted as a brand logo.
Progress came through a variation on the theme to
suit those who enjoyed an active leisure time in country
pursuits and it is this market that remains at the core of
Barbour production. Collaborations with other outdoor
manufacturers, such as Land Rover, complement the
country look, in turn reinforcing a traditionally British,
and much coveted, sense of style. Barbour still relies on
its back catalogue to create modern
Top: John Barbour,
interpretations of its first weatherproof company founder.
jackets and coats. Top right: Johns son,
The original South Shields shop was Malcolm, produced
quickly outgrown, but the Barbour the first mail order
family chose not to move far away catalogue in 1908.
Middle: Early
and their offices, factory and shop
promotional material.
now sprawl across a large area on the Bottom: Brand
outskirts of the town. The famous inspiration, the South
Barbour tartan lining seen inside many Shields beacon
B
arbours clothing archives hold some
surprises. Designer Gary Janes
has worked on some of Barbours
most iconic designs and has an
stage, before passing to the encyclopaedic knowledge of the brand and
sewing teams whose great its evolution. We keep an eye on changing
speed and dexterity is a blur fashions but ultimately were about function
of movement. and practicality, he says. We appropriate
We run an academy our original work-wear designs for a modern
where we take on a number market, but therell always be more to a
of apprentices each year to Barbour than just good looks.
learn sewing skills and to train Yesteryears outerwear essentials include
as machinists in the factory. We ankle-length motorcycle greatcoats, the tails
also take on university students on of which cleverly fold around the wearer for a
fashion placement schemes within our streamlined effect during travel, as well as traditional
design department, explains PR manager, yellow fishermans garb and customised jackets worn by
Sue Newton. Apart from having improved and enhanced Falklands War soldiers, whose regulation army kit had fallen
equipment as time has gone on, the principles of how we well short of requirements.
make a Barbour jacket havent changed all that much. Our These well-loved relics are a credit to their makers.
BARBOUR
traditional methods, with much done by hand, are something Almost all could easily be worn today and, as such, serve as
we pride ourselves on. inspiration for tomorrow. Q
It takes around an hour and a half to make a jacket,
depending on the style, with 36 people involved in the
process from start to finish. Each machinist completes a piece
of the garment and passes it on until the completed jacket is
ready to be quality checked. Up to five different styles may
be worked on at any one time on the five production lines
and the nature of the job demands intense concentration.
Next door in customer
services, another team is
busy registering the latest
intake of well-worn coats and
jackets, which after years of
wear and tear, or, perhaps,
a brief spell in the jaws of a
reckless puppy, have been
returned to be repaired, re-lined
or re-waxed. Its all part and
parcel of the Barbour service.
It is here that the longevity of
Barbour apparel is revealed. Itss
surprising how many people
would rather pay for repairs thann
N THE PRIZE
ow a fifth-generation family-owned business, Barbour is
well known for its classic and functional clothing and has
A unisex Bedale waxed jacket from Barbours Classic collection.
gone from strength to strength since it was founded over
120 years ago in South Shields, North East England. BY POST: Send your answer, name, and contact details to Barbour jacket
The brand began when founder John Barbour saw a niche in the competition, Discover Britain magazine, Archant House, Oriel Road,
supply of outerwear to local fishermen, rivermen and dock workers Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB.
in the form of weatherproof garments. Barbour quickly became ONLINE: Visit www.discoverbritainmag.com and click on Competitions &
renowned for its innovative and practical clothing. Offers to enter the competition online.
With three Royal Warrants to its name, Barbour now makes TERMS & CONDITIONS: Entry closing date 31 August 2015. Prize includes a Barbour
everything from shoes and socks to jumpers, shirts and trousers, Bedale waxed unisex jacket (the winner will be contacted for their jacket size preference).
and, of course, the famous wax jackets. It has become an Subject to availability. No cash alternative. Employees and relatives of Chelsea Magazine
Company, Barbour, and associated suppliers are not eligible. The winners name may be
internationally renowned brand, sold in over 40 countries including published. By entering this competition you agree and acknowledge that The Chelsea
Germany, Spain, Japan and the US. Magazine Company is permitted to receive your registration data.
One of the most popular Barbour jackets made in the South
Shields factory is the Bedale waxed jacket, designed by Dame
Margaret Barbour in 1980. It was the companys first lightweight,
thorn-proof jacket, designed specifically with equestrian
HOW TO ENTER
In what year was Barbour founded?
practicalities in mind. The shorter length, tailored fit and rear vents
make it perfect for horse riding, while the medium weight 6oz wax, A 1894 B 1750 C 1995
stormfly front and hand warmer pockets ensure it is suitable for
NAME .................................................................................................................
use all year round, come rain or shine.
Today, the Bedale, while still used for horse riding, has evolved ADDRESS ............................................................................................................
into an essential multi-purpose jacket worn by men and women in ............................................................................................................................
both town and country, whether its for dog walking, the school
................................................................... POST CODE ....................................
run or anytime a weatherproof jacket is required to provide
protection against the unpredictable weather. EMAIL .................................................................................................................
For more details about Barbour visit www.barbour.com
I have a subscription I prefer not to receive product information
TH
N
E
I
D
R
OUN
Stonehenge is
one of the worlds
most famous
round structures
46 | JUNE/JULY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com
Circular buildings are nothing new. Some of the oldest forms of shelter were round
in shape and, as illustrated by a wealth of annular structures across Britain, it seems
our fascination with the past continues to influence designs of the future
WORDS NIK RAWLINSON
T
heres something inherently beautiful about a First opened as an office block, it was designed to
circular building. Its curved walls gently turn look like a candle and architect James Roberts had
away from you, wherever you might be standing. proposed a flame-like weather beacon for the roof to
Its intriguing, too, always keeping something complete the effect. Sadly, it never appeared. The Rotunda
back in a way that a flat-faced block simply cant. closed for refurbishment in 2004 and reopened four
Rectangular buildings show you the whole of each years later as the site of 232 luxury apartments, with the
side in one go, but circular buildings call you forward, top four floors converted to fully serviced flats available
inviting you to explore what might lie around that for short-term let and offering impressive views across
never-ending corner. Birmingham and beyond.
Two classics of the art celebrate their 50th birthdays this It has never been the citys tallest building nor its
year. Londons BT Tower and the landmark Rotunda in most attractive but it has long been Birminghams most
Birmingham are perfect examples of why round buildings recognisable feature. The modest entrance off New Street
simply work. Neither would be so striking with angular barely hints at the space within: the ramp that makes you
edges and slab-flat sides; they probably wouldnt have feel like youre entering a Bond villains lair, or lifts that
earned their Grade II listings and may well have been open on broad, circular landings in hot, flat colours.
pulled down for renovation. Tel: 0121 285 1290; www.stayingcool.com/birmingham
Circular buildings are far more striking than their
cuboid counterparts and confer practical benefits, too. BBC TELEVISION CENTRE, WHITE CITY
With a smaller external surface area, theyre more energy Wood Lane, London
efficient and in many cases theyre easier to build as With 14 acres of floor space, TV Centre was Britains
theres no need to square up their corners. No wonder bui
largest television complex. The iconic studios are built
yurts and tepees have provided safe, reliable dwellings around a central ring of offices that havee featured
fea in the
for millennia. Britain is home to many of Europes most titles and backdrops of so many BBC C sh
shows that they were
striking round buildings, in every style and age between hem
practically characters in and of themselves.
distant pre-history and the present day. Isnt it time we It opened in June 1960 afterr a nine-year, 10m build,
celebrated the genius of their design and explored the with the unique shape having ng come about by chance
stories behind each one? after architect Graham Dawbarnw drew a question mark
on an envelope while trying in to figure out the optimum
mum
THE ROTUNDA, BIRMINGHAM layout. That question mark a morphed into the flooroor plan
New Street, Birmingham we know today.
Birminghams Grade II-listed Rotunda has dominated Gr
A statue of Helios, Greek s at the
God of the Sun, sits
the city skyline for five decades this year. Standing over mb
centre of the ring, symbolising n of television,
the radiation
the renovated Bullring shopping centre, the 25-storey and although this was originally a fountain,, it hasnt run
modernist tumbler cost 1m to build and topped out at o the water echoed around
for years as the sound of a the
twice its original intended height, but lacks the cinema doughnut and disturbed ed the office workers.
and skyline restaurant that had featured on the initial The site was sold for rredevelopment in 2012 2 and
plans. The top floor was built to rotate and originally although it will soon houseu offices and 1,000 homes,
om the
hosted adverts, then a digital clock, each of which have Grade II listing of certainn parts including the core
re ring
r
since been removed. and massive studio TC1 m means the BBC will be moving ving
discoverbritainmag.com
nm JUNE/JULY 2015 | 47
Circular Buildings
back in as a tenant in 2017. It will also be home to a cinema
and branch of the Soho House members club, so will remain
open to the general public for the foreseeable future.
www.televisioncentre.com
Above: The Rotunda in Birmingham city centre. Below: BBC Television Centre. Bottom: Redoubt Fort in Harwich never came under fire
METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL OF
CHRIST THE KING, LIVERPOOL
Mount Pleasant, Liverpool
Liverpool was a 19th-century hub for Catholic
Irish emigrants heading to the US. Inevitably
some arrived in Britain and stayed, bolstering the
citys Catholic population and its need of a new
cathedral. The present circular building, opened in
1967, was the fourth attempt at sating that need,
with two earlier projects abandoned when only
small chapels had been built and the third never
making it off the drawing board.
Its topped by a lantern tower filled with red,
yellow and blue stained glass the three colours
representing the Trinity that bathes the interior
in tinted light. The marble altar is directly beneath
this, with the pews arranged round it to ensure a
clear view for congregations of up to 2,000 people. Thirteen
chapels surround the main body of the church, and although
its structure is predominantly concrete, the facing of Portland
Stone gives its modern exterior a classic finish.
The cathedral is open daily from 7.30am and even
offers free guided tours (suggested donation 3). More
unusually, the crypt the oldest part of the cath
cathedral as it
arli abandoned
was to form the basement of one of the earlier,
th attracts drinkers
designs hosts an annual beer festival that
from around the world.
ol
Tel: 0151 709 9222; www.liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.uk
Top: Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ the King. Above: The Radcliffe Camera was completed in 1749. Below: Shakespeares Globe theatre
www.hiddenlincoln.com
enquiries@hiddenlincoln.com HIDDEN
01522 521211 LINCOLN
Circular Buildings
Oxfords Catte Street and Radcliffe Square. of Europe. Eight miles north of Salisbury, Stonehenge is a
Tel: 01865 277 162; www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk UNESCO-protected World Heritage Site that took at least
1,500 years to complete and is built on a site that bears
GCHQ, CHELTENHAM evidence of construction stretching back 10 millennia. Its
Hubble Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire now owned by the Crown, having been bequeathed to the
The US has the Pentagon; Britain has the Doughnut. The nation in 1918 by Baronet Cecil Chubb after he bought it at
Government Communications Headquarters is one of auction for 6,600.
Britains biggest buildings and its most secure but upon its Despite the lack of transport or machinery, some of its
completion in 2003, the 71-hectare site was still too small to largest stones were brought to the site from more than 200
house all of Britains intelligence and cryptography spooks. miles away. Nobody quite knows how it was built or exactly
Designed by British architect Chris Johnson for American what it was used for, but cremated remains suggest it had a
firm, Gensler, the 330m Doughnut replaced more than 50 religious significance and better-preserved burials point to it
discrete buildings located in and around the Cheltenham once having been a site of pilgrimage for those chasing cures.
area, with the last staff to arrive claiming their desks in 2011. Timed tickets giving access to the monument cost 13.90
The construction itself was contracted out, but the actual for adults and 8.30 for children aged 5 to 15. It can also be
move after its completion was overseen by GCHQ itself so viewed at speed by drivers on the A303. The A344 that
that nobody else could touch its classified kit. passed to its north has been closed to make way for the new
Although it looks like an unbroken ring, the Doughnut is English Heritage visitor centre.
actually three buildings in one, squashed together and Tel: 0370 333 1181; www.english-heritage.org.uk/
linked by corridors on the upper and lower floors. Combined, stonehenge
they provide 139,354m of office space, yet its overall
height of just 21m is surprisingly modest. With its use of THE CIRCUS, BATH
local limestone and recycled steel, its perhaps no surprise Bath, Somerset
that in 2004 it was nominated for an award to highlight Many consider John Woods
improvements to the built and landscaped environment by Royal Crescent to be the jewel
the Cheltenham Civic Society. in Baths crown and cruelly
www.gchq.gov.uk overlook his architectural
angel cake next door. The
STONEHENGE, WILTSHIRE Circus was built layer on
Amesbury, Wiltshire layer with three distinct
Stonehenge dates back at least 5,000 years, and youd be architectural types sitting
hard pushed to find an older building than this in the whole on top of each other. Greek,
Below: Stonehenge attracts thousands of visitors each year. Inset: BT Tower was once Britains tallest building
Above: The Doughnut houses GCHQ and is actually three buildings in one. Below: The Circus covers a majestic circumference that extends 200m
ALAMY; ROBERT HARDING
Liverpools
LEGACY Some of the greatest ocean liners in the world began their sailing lives
at Liverpool docks. This year the city marks two important maritime
anniversaries, adding to reasons to visit its seafaring heritage
WORDS DAVID ATKINSON
To celebrate an altogether happier anniversary, some a maritime mercantile city. Projects Above: The Queen
famous Cunard ships return to Liverpool this summer to continue to this day, the latest of Mary 2 adds to
the bright lights
mark 175 years from the inauguration of the companys which is to expand the new Liverpool
of Liverpool
transatlantic service out of Liverpool in July 1840. The three Cruise Terminal to accommodate ships
largest Cunard ships ever built, the Queen Mary 2, Queen carrying up to 3,500 passengers.
Elizabeth and Queen Victoria sailed back into the city Visitors to the city will find that all the main maritime
between 24-26 May to remember that historic moment. sights are contained within a one-mile sweep along the River
The Queen Mary 2 then sails on 4 July from Liverpool Mersey from the Cruise Terminal (Princes Dock) to the Echo
to New York, emulating to the day the journey of Britannia Arena (Kings Dock) via the Albert Dock museum quarter
175 years ago. This is the first time since January 1968 that a and the Pier Head, home to the Three Graces.
Cunard ship has departed from Liverpool bound for America. Heading left from the Cruise Terminal, past the Titanic
The sailing is preceded that day by a special commemorative Memorial, the first major attraction is the Museum of
concert at Liverpools Anglican Cathedral while light Liverpool. Opened in 2011, the angular, glass-fronted
projections onto the waterfront buildings over three nights building tells the story of the city and its people. The Great
recount the story of Liverpool at sea. Port gallery explores the development of the docks and the
Liverpool still feels a very strong link as Cunards spiritual tidal River Mersey, while the Global City gallery examines
home, says Eleanor Moffat. The citys wealth stems from Liverpools pivotal role in the expansion of the British
the golden era of the shipping lines in the 18th and 19th Empire. Look out for the evocative poem, The Gateway to
centuries. This period established Liverpool as a centre for the Atlantic, by the Liverpool-born poet Roger McGough, by
world trade and commerce. the entrance to the former.
The waterside walkway leads towards the Albert Dock,
TOUR OF THE DOCKS where Tate Liverpool has been bringing world-class
Each year, many thousands of visitors come to Liverpool exhibitions, including the Turner Prize, to the Liverpool
to explore its seafaring history. In 2004, UNESCO granted waterfront since the regeneration of the docklands in the late
World Heritage status to six areas of Liverpool, including 1980s. While youre browsing the minimalist gallery space,
some along the waterfront, in recognition of its standing as stop by the floor-to-ceiling windows to catch glimpses of the
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F
or those who find the wait for Wimbledon unbearable, it is possible to get a
tennis fix a little earlier in Eastbourne, where fans of the sport can combine
watching world-class tennis with a trip to the seaside.
The Aegon International Eastbourne tennis tournament takes place
20-27 June this year, offering players the opportunity to warm up for
Wimbledon the following week and spectators the chance to glimpse summer form.
Held at Devonshire Park, the tournament first started life as the Womens Tennis
Association (WTA) Premier tournament in 1974 and familiar faces such as Virginia
Wade, Martina Navratilova and Lindsey Davenport would go on to become
champions over the years. In 2009 the Association of Tennis Professionals (ATP) 250
Series tournament for men joined the women for a slice of the action and the Aegon
International tournament was born. However, this year will see a return to an all-
women event at Eastbourne as tournament director, Gavin Fletcher, explains:
With changes in the international calendar, plus the need for both mens and
womens draws to increase in size, it is necessary for the mens and womens events to
be split. As a consequence, the men will be moving to Nottingham from 2015, while
the womens event will remain in Eastbourne. We remain committed to hosting a
world-class tournament in Eastbourne and look forward to welcoming some of the
worlds best female players once again.
Devonshire Park is the towns oldest park and has been hosting Lawn Tennis since
the 1870s. It holds 13 tennis courts, which offer a great atmosphere and setting for the
tournament, and all a mere drop shot away from Eastbournes seafront and various
attractions. At the corner of Devonshire Park itself is the Towner art gallery, which
moved to its current location after a new 8.5m purpose-built gallery design was
Parks, a large proportion Eastbournes museum of shops where it is possible to get lost in nostalgia across
continues to be farmed four floors of old shop fronts, room settings and eclectic product displays. From
here. In more recent years, Cadburys and Coca-Cola to Heinz tomato soup, over 100,000 exhibits chart the
vineyards have also been history of household products and packaging. Meanwhile, back on the seafront,
making use of the areas the little Eastbourne Lifeboat Museum provides information about the Royal
levels of sunshine, rainfall National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI). Housed in the towns old lifeboat house,
and chalky soil, which help to which was constructed in 1898 and became the RNLIs first museum in 1936,
create the perfect conditions it charts around 200 years of saving lives at sea. Today, the towns new lifeboat
for growing grapes to make station is based at Sovereign Harbour.
sparkling wines. Back on the tennis courts, Eastbournes claim to fame as the sunniest place in
Its agricultural virtues the UK means its perhaps less likely that rain will stop play here than at other
aside, visitors to the area tournaments. As the annual event returns to its roots as an all-ladies tournament
can simply enjoy rambling and the town is shaken from its summer peace by the excited roar of tennis fans
through the captivating at Devonshire Park, its a great time to visit, whatever the weather. Q
scenery of Britains newest
National Park. For more information about the Aegon International, visit www.lta.org.uk.
www.southdowns.gov.uk To discover more about Eastbourne, go to www.visiteastbourne.com
E
njoy the experience of watching world-class tennis at the BY POST: Send your answer, name and contact details to Grand Hotel
Aegon International Eastbourne, while indulging in some Competition, Discover Britain magazine, Archant House, Oriel Road,
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB.
strawberries and Pimms at Devonshire Park: all part of a
wonderful three-night break for two people at the ONLINE: Visit www.discoverbritainmag.com and click on Competitions &
prestigious Grand Hotel. Offers to enter the competition online.
The Aegon International Eastbourne tennis championship runs
TERMS & CONDITIONS: Closing date for all entries is 12 June 2015. Prize only available on
from 20-27 June and is the high-calibre sporting event of dates stated, 22, 23, 24 June 2015. Prize valid for up to two people. There is no cash
Eastbournes calendar. Relax in the sunshine at the historic alternative. Centre Court tickets for the Aegon International Eastbourne are valid for two
Devonshire Park, with Centre Court tickets on Wednesday 24 June, people on 24 June 2015 only. Vouchers supplied for strawberries and Pimms for two people.
Grand Hotel spa treatments not included. Coffee and cake at Western View up to the value
watching top players battle it out for a place in the quarter-finals. of 15.00. Whole prize is not transferable and travel costs are not included. Employees (and
The prize includes three nights, 22-24 June, at the five-star relatives) of The Chelsea Magazine Company are not eligible to enter. Winners names may
be published. By entering this competition you agree and acknowledge that The Chelsea
Grand Hotel, staying in an executive room with spectacular views Magazine Company is permitted to receive your registration data.
of the South Downs and Eastbournes Victorian seafront. Not only
that, but the lucky winners will also enjoy use of the hotels health
club, with its indoor and outdoor pool, gym and spa facilities.
Your summer break will be topped off with coffee and cake at HOW TO ENTER
Western View, Eastbournes west-facing suntrap cafe. Where is Eastbourne located?
For more information about the tennis tournament, visit A South coast B West coast C North coast
www.aegoninternationaleastbourne.co.uk. To find out more about
the Grand Hotel, see www.grandeastbourne.com. NAME .................................................................................................................
Enjoy a three-night break for two people at the Grand Hotel, ............................................................................................................................
Eastbourne on a B&B basis for the nights of 22, 23 and 24 June ................................................................... POST CODE ....................................
2015, plus Centre Court Aegon International Eastbourne tickets EMAIL .................................................................................................................
for 24 June and coffee and cake at Western View.
www.visiteastbourne.com I have a subscription I prefer not to receive product information
Richmond Castle is one
of the greatest Norman
fortresses in Britain.
Opposite: View along
the River Swale
66 | JUNE/JULY 2015 discoverbritainmag.com
C A S T L E O F
CONQUEST
The town of Richmond, gateway to the North Yorkshire Dales, grew around a
Norman castle and has prospered through the centuries. Now it is a popular
place to visit, with a compelling history and fine local Yorkshire produce
WORDS SHEENA HARVEY
S
tanding on the edge of the steep and lofty drop the niches in the stonework. The main means of entry to the
down to the rushing River Swale it is not hard to living quarters is via a staircase to the right of the tower and
see why this place was known as Riche Mont, across a roof above the present entrance.
strong hill, and was the obvious place to site an The founder of the castle is thought to be Alan Rufus,
11th-century Norman fortress. The now softened and who was related to William the Conqueror and fought at
Anglicised Richmond Castle, one of several built around the head of the troops from Brittany that took part in the
England in the wake of the Conquest in 1066, is thought to be Battle of Hastings. He gave a number of Breton knights
the best-preserved structure of its age and size in the country. positions of power and prestige in the running of the castle
It is also a perfect example of how a new settlement grew and in occupying the surrounding countryside to assert his
up around these Norman demonstrations of baronial wealth dominance over the defeated localAnglo-Saxon nobility.
and power, as the town of Richmond developed around On the other side of the vast grassed courtyard, which
the fortifications providing workshops and artisan living would once have been filled with domestic buildings, lies the
accommodation, food production and markets sufficient to substantial ruins of Scollands Hall, named after a
the castles needs. Nowadays, there are many narrow lanes 12th-century constable of the castle who served it for more
to explore, running down the hill and lined with interesting than 60 years. The hall is reputed to be the earliest domestic
buildings from medieval times, through Georgian, Victorian interior still surviving in England and would have had a
and onwards, with many small shops alongside the modern, large communal room and solar (or withdrawing room for
and plenty of cafes and restaurants and
coaching inns.
The cobbled market square with Trinity
Church and the market cross, called the
Obelisk, dominating the wider end of its
elongated triangle is connected by a narrow
street directly to the castle keep. A grand
archway on the ground floor of the keep
was the first imposing entrance to the castle.
Originally there would have been only the
archway set in the curtain wall, with possibly
balconies above overlooking the marketplace.
But, in the mid-12th century the great
four-storey tower that can be seen today was
added on top and in front of the arch. This
contains several rooms, including a great
hall. The stone-flagged ground-floor that now
opens only internally onto the castle courtyard
provides entrance to the cellars and shows signs
of being a favoured roost for a barn owl, along
with the ubiquitous feral pigeons that occupy
house six miles from childhood. The Tack Room devised by Chef Gareth Richmond Castle: www.
Richmond. The coach has a wood-burning stove, Rayner, is modern British english-heritage.org.uk
house and stables have super-king bed and private using the very best of Theatre Royal: www.
been converted to luxury courtyard garden. The Yorkshire produce. georgiantheatreroyal.co.uk
accommodation and an Garden Rooms have their Tel: 01325 377 977; The Green Howards Museum:
award-winning restaurant. own outdoor seating area www. middletonlodge.co.uk www.greenhowards.org.uk
DAYS OUT
Discover a wealth
TIM GRAHAM / GETTY IMAGES
of Royal history at
Windsor Castle
(see page 75)
A
figures can be seen buried waist-deep
s part of an island nation, everyone in Britain is less than 90 miles from the in the sand, standing in the shallows or
countrys sandy shores and rugged coastline, and what better way to spend a almost submerged half a mile out to sea.
warm summers day than on one of Britains beaches. Whether youre looking www.sefton.gov.uk
for a suitable picnic spot, somewhere to laze the day away or something a
little more active, the diverse shores of Britain attract visitors from across the country LYME REGIS
(and further afield) over the summer months. DORSET
The draw of the shore has been pulling in the crowds since Georgian and Victorian Forming part of the Jurassic Coast
times, when the well-to-do would holiday at the seaside to reap the benefits of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, this beach
clean air and the assumed benefits of drinking seawater! Towns such as Lyme Regis in is teeming with fossils. Theres no need
Dorset, Tenby in Pembrokeshire and Margate in Kent were among those frequented by for specialist archaeological tools, or
wealthy visitors who paved the way for the towns continued popularity today. From even a brightly-coloured plastic spade,
curious Victorian bathing machines contraptions resembling a beach hut on wheels as the crumbling cliffs and wash of the
that helped refined ladies enter the water beyond prying eyes and so preserve their tide do all the hard work for keen-eyed
modesty to donkey rides and the bright lights of Blackpool, the seaside has remained fossil hunters who will be able to spot
a firm favourite with British holiday makers over the years. If youre looking to follow in a bounty of ammonites, as well as
this long tradition and head to the beach this summer, weve put together a list of five small fragments from the skeletons of
very different, but equally wonderful options across the country that are well worth a ichthyosaurs and plesiosaurs. For those
visit whether you want to join the crowds or escape them altogether. who want to learn more about the fossils
its way down onto the sands, North Beach is keen to test your balancing skills and ride
the perfect spot for family picnics. Children will the waves for the first time this summer, the
love exploring rock pools along this Blue Flag adjoining beaches of Gwithian and Godrevy
beach while never being too far away from the cater for all abilities. Beginners can make Top left: Antony
watchful eyes of their parents! their way over the sand dunes to the gentle Gormleys Another
www.visitpembrokeshire.com surf of Gwithian Beach in St Ives Bay, while Place adds to the
experts at hanging ten can head to Godrevy interest at Crosby.
SANDWOOD BAY for something a little more challenging. If you Top right: Surfs up
at Gwithian, Cornwall.
SUTHERLAND, SCOTLAND prefer to stay out of the water altogether and
Above middle:
If your idea of the perfect beach is white merely watch the pros at work, there are some North Beach, Tenby.
sand, a turquoise sea and hardly a soul in great cliff-top viewing points from Godrevy Above: Ammonites
sight, Sandwood Bay may be the beach for Head, where surfers and seals can be seen and other fossils can
you (as long as youre not expecting tropical at play around the headland. be found along the
temperatures). Located in the northwest www.visitcornwall.com Q coast at Lyme Regis
Windsor Castle
BERKSHIRE
Castles Round Tower.
Top right: 1st Duke
of Wellington.
Above: The castles
Waterloo Chamber.
200 years after Napoleons momentous defeat at Waterloo, Inset: Napoleons red
cloak is on display
discover more about the battle and its aftermath at Windsor Castle
A
Getting here:
s Europe remembers the Battle of Waterloo Castles grandest state rooms and a permanent By car, take the M4
this June, Windsor Castle, which has been monument to the battle. The chamber holds 37 to Junction 6 or the
home to British kings and queens for nearly portraits of people who were instrumental in the M3 to Junction 3.
WORDS BY HELEN BEER; THE ROYAL COLLECTION HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II
1,000 years, is marking the anniversary victory. Dominating the room is the portrait of the Windsor Castle is
with a special exhibition revealing the fascination Duke of Wellington, who led the British troops in the situated off the High
of past monarchs with Waterloo and the French Allied victory. Street near the town
Emperor Napoleon. The largest and oldest inhabited castle in the world, centre. There is no
George IV collected an array of items linked to Windsor clearly displays the taste and influence of parking at the castle.
Napoleon and the battle which are on display the 39 monarchs who have lived here. The State By train, Windsor
throughout Windsors State Apartments. Visitors will Apartments hold some of the Royal Collections and Eton Central or
be able to see Napoleons red felt cloak, embroidered most important works of art, including pieces by Windsor and Eton
with silver thread and lined with yellow silk brocade, Rembrandt and Rubens, many of them in the same Riverside are both
approximately a
which was seized from his baggage train at the battle. setting they were commissioned for.
10-minute walk.
Other highlights include a Chippendale chair, made During a visit to the castle, dont miss the worlds
More information:
from an elm tree which stood on the ridge where most famous dolls house, which features electricity, Waterloo at Windsor
the Duke of Wellington made the final advance on running water and even flushing toilets. Built by runs until 13 January
Napoleon, and The Table des Grands Capitaines, renowned British architect Sir Edwin Lutyens, Queen 2016. Windsor
commissioned by Napoleon to immortalise his reign Marys Dolls House also boasts tiny contents made Castle, Windsor,
and decorated with images of great leaders and with incredible attention to detail by leading artists Berkshire SL4 1NJ.
philosophers of the past. and craftsmen right down to the library with original Tel: 020 7766 7304.
George IVs great personal interest in Napoleon led works by famous authors of the day and a fully www.royalcollect
him to create the Waterloo Chamber, one of Windsor stocked wine cellar. Q ion.org.uk
Arundells
SALISBURY, WILTSHIRE
dates from the 1700s.
Top right: The
Drawing Room.
Above: Sir Edward
Heath in his youth
Visit the former Salisbury home of Sir Edward Heath as a new exhibition space
opens to mark 50 years since he became leader of the Conservative Party Getting there:
By car, from London
T
exit M3 at junction
he first leader of the Conservative Party not about Sir Edwards private life and pastimes as well 8 to join A303 to
to have been educated at a public school, Sir as his political career. As a world-class yachtsman, Sir Salisbury. From the
Edward Heath would go on to become Prime Edward is the only British Prime Minister to have won south follow A30
Minister from 1970 to 1974. Heaths term in an international sporting trophy, the Admirals Cup then A303. From
office came at a time of economic uncertainty that an esteemed honour among sailing aficionados. the north, take
would see a number of industrial strikes take place in Sir Edwards collection of yachting memorabilia M40, A34 and A303.
Britain, including the miners strikes of 1972 and 1974. is also on display in the house, including seascapes By train, Salisbury
Sir Edward died in 2005 and his Grade II-listed and trophies along with pictures and models of his station is 15 minutes
former home in Salisbury was opened to the public Morning Cloud boats, which he raced competitively away on foot.
in 2008; it remains largely as he left it to this day. The from 1969 until 1986. More information:
impressive 18th-century house and its two acres of Tragically the third of his five Morning Cloud Open for guided
walled garden have seen the addition of a designated boats was lost in a storm off the coast of Sussex in tours Sat-Wed
until 4 November.
exhibition space this year in time to mark the 50th September 1974 with the loss of two crew members,
Booking is
anniversary of Sir Edward becoming the leader of Christopher Chadd and Nigel Cumming. The bow of
recommended.
the Conservative Party. The exhibition Ready, Steady, Morning Cloud 3 has been retrieved and restored and Also open Bank
Go: Images of Britain in 1965 opens this summer is being loaned to Arundells as a memorial. Holiday Sun- Mon.
and will set this event in the wider context of social A unique mix of political, sailing and musical Arundells, 59
change. Meanwhile, another exhibition, Heath the artefacts and memorabilia can be found throughout Cathedral Close,
Soldier, runs until early July and explores Sir Edwards the house, reflecting Heaths achievements as a Salisbury, Wiltshire
military record and his experiences of war, which were statesman, musician and art collector. For anyone
ARUNDELLS
SP1 2EN
fundamental to forming his political views. with an interest in British politics, Arundells is a fitting Tel: 01722 326 546.
Visitors to Arundells will also be able to learn more tribute to Sir Edwards life and legacy. Q www.arundells.org
01768 892777
www.absolute-escapes.com
shirley@absolute-escapes.com
1a St. Andrews View, Penrith,
Cumbria CA11 7YF
Leeds
YORKSHIRE
Known for its vibrant nightlife, shops and events,
Leeds also holds a variety of hidden assets
T
heres much to love about Leeds. With entertainment
geared to please its student contingent, the city also HENRY MOORE SCULPTURE
has quieter spaces of beauty and a few surprises. Leeds Art Gallery
Dont miss the Leeds Food and Drink Festival from
The 20th-century Yorkshire-born artist
22 May to 7 June, with its cookery demonstrations and stalls
and sculptor became a household name
laden with the regions finest fare. Sport is in the spotlight too
in the British art establishment, honing
this year, with the Rugby World Cup 2015 scheduled to arrive in Getting there: By
his talent at Leeds Art College where he
the city from 26-27 September, while on the back of last years car, Leeds is easily
accessible via the M1 paved the way for others in sculpture
major cycling event, the Grand Dpart of the Tour de France, a
from the north and the college even set him up with his own
new bike race will be staged, giving amateurs the opportunity
south, and the M62 studio. Among the gallerys various works
to experience the route ridden by the pros.
east and west. By train, by Moore is the Reclining Woman: Elbow
Heritage left over from the medieval and industrial ages is Virgin Trains serve bronze, situated on a plinth at Henry
a reminder of times that saw great prosperity in the region. Leeds from London
Moores request, just outside the gallery.
Examples of this are Kirkstall Abbey, just over three miles Kings Cross, while
CrossCountry operate
Another eye-catching work currently on
from the centre; and Armley Mills, the worlds largest woollen
from the south-west show here is Three Motives against Wall
mill. Discover prehistoric finds, such as the Leeds Tiger, at the
routes through the No.1 (1958), on display until 24 March 2016.
City Museum, and visit Leeds Art Gallery to view a significant
Midlands to Leeds. To Visitors may like to pop to the adjoining
collection of 20th-century works. In October 2015, the gallery book your tickets go to Henry Moore Institute, a research centre,
will host the prestigious British Arts Show, which showcases www.thetrainline.com exhibition venue and sculpture archive.
the best work of emerging and established talent the largest More information:
www.leeds.gov.uk/artgallery
touring exhibition of contemporary art in Britain. www.visitleeds.co.uk
Chapel Roundhay
A6
60
Allerton
Headingley
A58
Bramley Woodhouse
Harehills
Leeds
Woodhouse
BILL BACHMANN/ROBERT HARDING; THE HENRY MOORE FOUNDATION; ROYAL ARMOURIES; LEEDS CITY COUNCIL; JACOBEAN TRAVELLING
Holbeck
CHIPPENDALE TABLE
LIBRARY REPRODUCED WITH THE PERMISSION OF SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, LEEDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY; WORDS BY VICKY SARTAIN
Temple Newsam
The Tudor-Jacobean mansion of
Temple Newsam is a treasure in itself
M621
Beeston M1 and its furnishings are suitably lavish.
The most significant Chippendale
piece is the Harewood writing table,
made by Thomas Chippendale the
Elder (1718-79), for the Library of
Edwin Lascelles at Harewood House.
Considered the ultimate of late 18th-
century English marquetry furniture, it
reached a record sale price of 41,000
ELEPHANT ARMOUR
at auction in 1965. Exposure to
Royal Armouries, Leeds daylight has reduced its lustre but the
This near-complete 16th/17th- elaborate decoration is a spectacle.
century elephant suit of armour www.leeds.gov.uk/templenewsam
protected the pachyderm from
threat during the (pre-firearm)
era of wars in India. The suit
as it stands weighs 118kg, and
complete would have been 159kg
a number which ensured its
place within the Guinness Book
of World Records as the worlds
largest and heaviest armour.
Engraved with scenes from
nature, it comprises 8,450 iron
plates held together by rivets.
www.royalarmouries.org
ETTINGER.CO.UK
ESCAPE TO
INVERNESS-SHIRE
PLAN YOUR VISIT TO THE LOCH NESS AND SPEYSIDE AREA
URQUHART
CASTLE
GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO
Explore romantic
ruins on the edge
of Loch Ness
(see page 91)
T
he city of Inverness is regarded fortresses, some now only romantic ruins, Ancient Caledonian pine forests on the
as the Capital of the Highlands of which all have a tale to tell. lower slopes of Cairngorm Mountain host
Scotland. The mighty Loch Ness, The River Spey runs through this a wealth of wildlife little seen in other
famous throughout the world landscape and its soft, peaty waters parts of the country. Red squirrels, pine
for its legendary monster, leads from have given rise to many of Scotlands marten, capercaillie, black grouse, Scottish
Inverness right across the narrow waist of most famous whisky brands. Most of the crossbills and crested tits can be spied out
the country and serves, in part, to link the distilleries are open to visitors to see the among the trees if youre patient enough.
North Sea with the Atlantic. magic of turning grain into world-class At Loch Garten and the Loch of the
The area around Inverness reveals a Speyside single malts. Lowes in the summer months there are
dramatic story of the Scottish clans and The Cairngorm mountain range good opportunities to see ospreys nesting,
their fight for their land throughout dominates the country south of Inverness. while on the heather hillsides you can
history, in particular to save it from the Its snow-capped peaks provide skiing and find red deer and wild goats across this
grasping hands of the English. As a other winter sports in season, with walking untamed landscape.
consequence there are many castles and and climbing in the warmer months. www.visitscotland.com
Woodland surrounding
Loch Garten at the RSPB
Abernethy Forest National
Nature Reserve, Cairngorms
[CASTLE]
Cawdor Castle
T
his castle is known the world over thanks 17th century onwards
to Shakespeares Macbeth, in which the by travelling Cawdors.
three witches predict that Macbeth will Theres a surprise
become Thane of Cawdor. The play waiting if you walk
was written to be performed for King James I of through the Big Wood
England/VI of Scotland, who would have been to the Auchindoune
familiar with the castle from his days growing up in Gardens that lie beside the Cawdor dower house.
Scotland. In truth, however, Cawdor is 14th century The 5th Earl, Jack Cawdor, was an explorer in the
and the real Macbeth 11th century, so never the 1920s and famed for an arduous expedition to the
twain would have met. little-known gorges of Tibet in search of rare plants.
The original castle was a tower house, four storeys He used the samples he brought back to create a
high and built to protect the Cawdor family in those replica Tibetan landscape of quiet walks, flower-
rough and ready days. Through the centuries it filled slopes and rushing water which has since been
has been added to and softened by opulent home restored from the 1980s onwards.
DONT MISS
furnishings, paintings by the likes of The castle is open every day Cawdors flower
Sir Joshua Reynolds, and the latest from the beginning of May to the garden is French
(for their time) kitchen equipment, Top: Cawdor comes beginning of October. The Tibetan
ROBERT HARDING; ALAMY
Black Isle
B
etween Cromarty Firth in the north and the Beauly and Moray
Firths in the south and east, there is a piece of land which is
neither particularly black nor an island; rather it is a peninsula
which links to Inverness via the Kessock Bridge and enjoys a mild
climate and rich farmland. This area of villages, pretty harbours, rolling hills,
deciduous woodland and sandy beaches is gentler than the surrounding,
more rugged Scotland with its heather moorland and pine forests.
Passing through the golf course at Fortrose leads to Chanonry Point,
one of the best places in the UK to see dolphins from the shore. As the tide
rushes through the narrow channel between this part of the Black Isle and
the Fort George promontory on the mainland, it concentrates salmon and
other fish making their way up river. This bounty of fish draws dolphins in
numbers to feed and, because the channel slopes down very quickly from
the shore to great depth, its possible for them to come in very close. Those
visiting the area are able to stand on the shingle at Chanonry Point and
watch dolphins breaking the surface of the sea only
15m (50ft) away. It can be a very windy spot, though,
so it is a good idea to wrap up warm for a prolonged Right: Scottish
spell of dolphin-watching. salmon is a delicacy
www.black-isle.info that even playful
dolphins cant resist
[BATTLEFIELD]
Culloden Battlefield
T
he battle fought on Culloden the carrying of weapons were banned.
moor on 16 April 1746 altered Many dispossessed Scottish families
the course of British, and emigrated across the Atlantic.
particularly Scottish, history. The amazing visitor centre at the
The last set-piece battle to be staged site of Culloden tells the whole story,
on British soil, it was comprehensively from the lead-up to the battle to the
lost by the Jacobite supporters of the aftermath, in vivid interactive exhibits
Bonnie Prince, Charles Edward Stuart, and Living History tableaux. The sights
who had been struggling to restore and sounds of the times are so movingly
the Stuart bloodline to the throne presented that, when you emerge from
after it was given to the Hanoverian the buildings out onto the battlefield
William of Orange and his wife Mary by itself, you feel transported back to those
the Scottish and English parliaments. grim events. And even though the moor
After the battle, which lasted only one is bleak and featureless you can imagine
hour, the Prince left Britain, never to the two armies facing each other that
return, and the government set out fateful morning and see just how the
to destroy Highland Jacobites came to grief.
society in brutal fashion. The visitor centre is
Left: Step back
Clan chiefs lost their in time at this open from 1 February to
land, legal rights and atmospheric and 23 December.
property. The wearing of infamous battlefield Tel: 0844 493 2159;
tartan and the kilt, and www.nts.org.uk/culloden
[LAKE]
Loch Ness
T
he geological fault line that runs standing by the side of the loch in the early
from Fort William in the southwest morning with a mist floating over the gently
to Inverness in the northeast is lapping waves, or in the evening as the sun
RICHARD ASHWORTH/ROBERT HARDING; MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY; ALAMY
known as the Great Glen and sets and the water goes inky black, you
it splits Scotland in two. At its heart lies could believe that something mysterious
Loch Ness, 23 miles long and 230m (755ft) just might live in the depths.
deep, home of the legendary monster. The Drumnadrochit, on the northwest side of
prospect of seeing Nessie draws thousands the loch, is the tourist hub of the area, but all
of people every year to the lochs shores to around the loch there are craft workshops
stare at the vast expanse of water for the and art galleries, gardens and historic sites
merest hint of a scaly hump breaking the to enjoy. The Fiddlers pub and restaurant,
surface. Despite numerous opposite the tourist which are possibly best appreciated from a
scientific studies using information office in the boat. There are cruises, boat trips of all sorts
sonar and hydrographic Above: Loch Ness centre of Drumnadrochit, available all year round, or you could paddle
surveys, the existence of a is one of the largest offers a friendly welcome yourself in a kayak or canoe. If you prefer to
large, prehistoric creature lakes in Scotland. and an uncountable number be land-based you can walk, cycle, ride and
Inset: Will you catch
has never been conclusively of malt whiskies to sample. drive the numerous roads, footpaths and
a glimpse of the
established, and there are legendary Nessie The scenery in the area is bridleways surrounding this intriguing spot.
many doubters, but the hunt during a visit? stunning, with ancient pine www.visitlochness.com; www.nessie.co.uk;
goes on. Certainly, if you are forests and heather moors www.fiddledrum.co.uk
Scottish Malt
Whisky Trail
T
his is billed as the only malt whisky trail in the world, and it
certainly covers one of the most famous whisky producing
areas in Scotland, Speyside. The Trail takes in eight
distilleries including Glenfiddich, Glen Livet, Strathisla and
Cardhu and the ancient Speyside cooperage where the whisky
barrels are still made in the traditional manner with time-honoured
tools. Each distillery has its own unique traditions and recipes to
discover. If youre curious to know how and why the distillation of
grain and water makes each type of uisghe beatha, water of life, so
distinctive, and how to enjoy the best of the flavour, then following
the trail at your leisure will reveal all.
If, having been on the trail, you
develop a taste for the amber liquid, Right: Theres more
you may wish to visit one of the than a wee dram in
Speyside Whisky Festivals held in the barrels at the
May and September. Glenfiddich Distillery
www.maltwhiskytrail.com
[HOTEL]
T
his historic 50-bedroom hotel in the main square of Grantown-
on-Spey was a stopping off point for Queen Victoria and Prince
Albert on their tour of the Highlands in 1860. Not surprising, as
it is a good base from which to tour the area. The modern hotel
has comfortable ensuite rooms and top-class dining. Birdsong rather than
musak greets you as you enter the reception area, and there are board
games and jigsaws in the bar to entertain visitors of all ages once back from
a day of exploring.
The hotel also runs a Birdwatching and Wildlife Club with experts on
hand to advise, as well as clubrooms and a library of wildlife books, maps
and suggested routes. The Club produces The Watcher, a monthly magazine
on the areas wildlife, and Daily Chirp bulletins on the breakfast table with
suggested wildlife activities and sightings for the day.
Guided wildlife walks can be arranged, including a dawn chorus walk in
the extensive and ancient Anagach Woods less than five minutes walk away.
Theres a high likelihood of seeing red squirrels
in the wood, especially where it borders the
Left: This historic local golf course, and you can stroll down
hotel is a great base to the River Spey in the hope of finding wild
for exploring the otters along its course.
area and its wildlife Tel: 01479 872 526;
www.grantarmshotel.com
[NATIONAL PARK]
T
he 4,528 sq km (1,748 sq miles) of the park In summer there are water sports
encompass Britains highest mountain range, available on the rivers and lochs in Right: The view from
with Cairngorm Mountain itself as the impressive the park, as well as cycling, walking, above Avielochan,
pinnacle. Here, there are 55 summits that are golf and fishing, all set in the most north of Aviemore.
Below left: Spot
over 900m (2,950ft) and hundreds of miles of trails taking amazing scenery. There are 12 ranger
golden eagles within
you through a huge variety of habitats mountain stations, paid for by a combination of the National Park.
climbs, hill walks, strolls through ancient woodlands, the private estates in and around the Below: Loch Garten
beside rivers and round lochs. In winter you can ski or area, the local authority, charitable
snowboard from the resort on Cairngorm Mountain, trusts and a community group. The
where you can also take lessons and hire all manner of rangers manage the landscape and the visitors, and
equipment. Mountain lifts and a funicular railway convey take care of the historical and natural heritage, which
you from the car park to Top Station at includes 25 per cent of the countrys most
1,097m (3,599ft). Even if you are not a skier, endangered wildlife. The visitor centre
DID YOU KNOW?
this trip is worth the effort as the view at Loch Garten focuses on the annual
1097 (formerly known
from the panoramic 1097 restaurant is as the Ptarmigan) is migration of ospreys to breed and the
spectacular on a clear day. Even if the cloud the highest restaurant ancient woodlands offer some of the best
is down around the mountaintop, theres in Britain. Located at places to see the UKs only endemic bird,
still a chance of catching a glimpse of snowy Cairngorm Mountains the striking orange Scottish crossbill.
white ptarmigan and Arctic hares from the Top Station, 1097 Speyside Wildlife (www.speysidewildlife.
viewing terrace, and the stark white, eerily can be reached co.uk) provides expert guided tours and
quiet atmosphere outside the bustle of the via another wildlife holidays in the Highlands, and
station is an experience to have before you record-breaker, the has its own hide where you can view pine
retreat indoors to indulge in a creamy hot highest funicular martens and badgers.
chocolate or two! railway in Britain! www.cairngorms.co.uk
[CASTLE]
URQUHART CASTLE
T
he picturesque ruins of 800-year-old Urquhart
Castle lie in a most defendable position, Above: Enjoy the
surrounded on three sides by Loch Ness and views of Loch Ness.
Inset: The castle
next to its deepest part. From here you get
ruins remain an
a real feel for the vast length of this stretch of water impressive sight
and how isolated it must have been in its heyday, but
also how imposing the castle must have been in the
Highland landscape. Throughout its history it was the it could not be used
focus of many a skirmish between rival clans, notably by rebels ever again.
the MacDonalds, Lords of the Isles. It was symbolic in the Today, visitors can
Scots struggle for independence, having been captured explore the castle
GETTY IMAGES; SEBASTIAN WASEK / ROBERTHARDING
in 1296 by the English, and changed hands several times ruins and make their
until it came to be controlled by the ultimate King of way through old doorways to discover the jigsaw of
DID YOU KNOW?
Scots, Robert the Bruce, in the early 14th century. spaces left between the ancient stonework remains.
The discovery of
Climbing the tower house, which was built in the Before you do so, its well worth spending a few a Pictish brooch
1500s when all the earlier fighting had ceased, gives minutes watching the audio-visual presentation in at Urquhart hints
good views over the entire site with the remains of the visitor centre. This tells the dramatic story of the that the castle may
its chapel, workshops and living quarters laid out castle and its place in Scottish history, and ends with also have been the
below. Sadly, the Jacobite Risings in the 17th century a surprising revelation. Also in the centre is a full-scale site of a Pictish fort
brought conflict to the castle once more and led to model of the castle as it would have been and a cafe once visited by St
its destruction. When government troops garrisoned with wonderful views over the loch. Columbus around
here were sent to a new posting they blew it up so that Tel: 01456 450551; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk AD 580.
FACT FILE
Everything you need to know to plan your visit to Inverness-shire
www.speysidewildlife.co.uk
Lo c
Cairngorm
Mountain
WHERE TO STAY
The Grant Arms
Grantown-on-Spey
From 70 per person per night,
dinner, bed & breakfast
On the town square, the hotel N
has 50 ensuite bedrooms.
BY POST: Send your answer, name and contact details to Grant Arms Hotel
T
he Grant Arms Hotel is in the perfect position for a
leisurely break in Speyside, with the snow-capped Competition, Discover Britain, Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham,
Gloucestershire GL50 1BB.
Cairngorm mountain range on the doorstep and historic
Inverness and environs close by. ONLINE: Visit www.discoverbritainmag.com and click on Competitions & Offers
At any time of year, the area around Grantown-on-Spey offers to enter the competition online.
fascinating attractions to the visitor. From skiing and fishing to TERMS & CONDITIONS: Closing date for all entries is 31 August 2015. Prize to be taken
visiting the sites of some of the most famous events in history, a between 1 October 2015 and 31 March 2016, excluding Christmas, New Year, Easter and special
events. Subject to availability. Transport is not provided. Prize non transferable. No cash
weekend in this part of the world will be a breath of fresh air. alternative. Employees (and relatives) of The Chelsea Magazine Company are not eligible to
The cosy Grant Arms with its top-class cuisine, comfortable enter. Winners names may be published. By entering this competition you agree and
ensuite bedrooms and extensive menu of single malt whiskies will acknowledge that The Chelsea Magazine Company is permitted to receive your registration data.
extend a warm welcome to the winners of this two-night break.
The on-site Bird Watching and Wildlife Club can provide
guidance on the best places to see red squirrels, pine martens, HOW TO ENTER
dolphins, red deer and a multitude of interesting birds, as well as In which year did Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stay at
talks and organised walks with experts. The Grant Arms Hotel on their tour of the Highlands?
The friendly hotel staff can also help with advice on historic
A 1850 B 1860 C 1870
sites to visit, beautiful countryside to explore and local crafts to
enjoy. Throughout the centuries, this part of Scotland has NAME .................................................................................................................
produced some of the most famous names in history, as well as ADDRESS ............................................................................................................
iconic brands such as Walkers shortbread and Glenfiddich whisky:
heres your chance to discover their origins for yourself. ............................................................................................................................
................................................................... POST CODE ....................................
THE PRIZE EMAIL .................................................................................................................
Enjoy a two-night stay, including dinner, bed and breakfast, for
two people sharing a double or twin room at The Grant Arms. I have a subscription I prefer not to receive product information
Classieds
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GARDENS TO VISIT
Why not spend a magical day in one of Britains truly gorgeous Gardens? Look
over our chosen selection of Gardens to Visit for something special this Spring
2
ROUSHAM HOUSE & GARDEN
Rousham represents the rst phase of English landscape design, and remains
Photo credit Harpur Garden Images
almost as William Kent left it, one of the few gardens of this date to have escaped
alteration, with many features which delighted 18th century visitors to Rousham
still in situ, such as the ponds and cascades in Venuss Vale, the Cold Bath and
seven-arched Praeneste, Townsends Building, the Temple of the Mill, and, on
the skyline, a sham ruin known as the Eyecatcher. OPEN: Daily from 10am, last
admission 4.30pm.
Tel: +44 (0) 869 347110 Website: www.rousham.org
3
HIMALAYAN GARDEN
Visit our inspiring garden, 20 acres of beautiful walks & lakes with plant nursery
for quality & hardy plants. Group visits and talks are available, please contact us
for further information. Limited wheelchair access. Dogs on leads welcome. Easter
Week Special: Fri 3rd April - Sun 12th April. Open: Tues to Sun and Bank Holidays
10am - 4pm. Admission: 7.50 (Children under 12 FREE). Refreshments available
from our tearoom. Nursery & mail order plant sales available all year.
Website: www.himalayangarden.com
4
ABBOTSBURY SUBTROPICAL GARDENS
A recent winner of the HHA/Christies Garden of the Year Award, and described by
Alan Titchmarsh as One of the nest gardens I have ever visited. Abbotsbury is
celebrating its 250th anniversary during 2015, with new features including a Burma
Photo credit Julien Lightfoot
Rope Bridge, lots of special events and more fabulous plants. 2015 is denitely
the year to visit Abbotsbury. Open every day except 19th Dec to 1st Jan inclusive,
10.00am to 5.00pm or 4.00pm in winter.
5
EXBURY GARDENS AND STEAM RAILWAY
Exbury is world-renowned for its truly dazzling spring colour. April is the time to
enjoy one of the countrys nest collections of rhododendrons. With a myriad of
pathways to explore, breathtaking views at every turn, a Steam Railway, licensed
Tea Rooms and free parking, the enchanting 200 acre woodland garden is a
must-stop destination for visitors to the New Forest. Open: 14 March to 8 November,
10am to 4.30pm last admission. Adults 12.10*, Children 2.75*, Family 25.85*
including voluntary donation. Exbury, Southampton, Hampshire, SO45 1AZ.
Tel: +44 (0) 2380 81203 Email: info@exbury.co.uk Website: www.exbury.co.uk
Crossword
Challenge your knowledge of Britains history, legends and people with our puzzle page
DOWN
1 19th-century prime minister,
a favourite of Queen Victoria (8)
2 Surname of neo-Classical
architect brothers Robert
and James (4)
3 Sea bird with a colourful
beak (6)
4 Poet born in 1792 in Field Place
near Horsham in Sussex (7)
5 County renowned for the
production of cider (8)
6 Renowned Field Marshal in the
Second World War (10)
7 Tributary of the Thames
flowing through Marlborough,
Hungerford and Newbury (6)
13 The largest freshwater Scottish
lake (4,6)
16 Essex airport serving
London (8)
18 Lost kingdom of Arthurian
legend (8)
19 Formerly, the chief executive
officer of the Crown in a
county (7)
21 Blair , Perthshire tourist
centre at the junction of the Tilt
and Garry rivers (6)
22 Worcestershire village with a
14th-century barn preserved by
ACROSS Think you the National Trust (6)
8 Tributary of the Thames that have all the 24 Lancashire river (below) flows
flows through the Cotswolds (8) answers? into the Irish Sea at Fleetwood (4)
9 Fresh bracing sea air (5) Well reveal the
10 __ Stoker, author of solutions to
Dracula (4) this crossword
11 Port and resort on the in issue 189
southeast coast of Kent (10) (December
12 Camelot magician (6) 2015/January
14 Lord __, fictional character 22 Enid __, popular childrens 2016), on
in the Blandings stories by author (see above) (6) sale from 18
PG Wodehouse (8) 23 Composer of Rule, November
15 Ecclesiastical area ruled by Britannia (6,4)
a bishop (7) 24 Architect of St Pauls
17 One of Shakespeares plays (7) Cathedral in London (4)
20 Landscape painter who was 25 Jousting weapon (5)
an official war artist in both 26 Fanfare played by brass
World Wars (4,4) instruments (8)
Sky-high ambitions
Pilot Amy Johnson was the first female to fly solo from Britain to Australia
T
he daring feats of aviation performed by
20th-century pilot Amy Johnson were
unparalleled for the era. Taking to the skies
from an early age, the Hull-born heroine
made her record-setting journey to Australia in her de
Havilland Moth biplane when just 26 years old.
Having graduated from Sheffield University with an
Economics degree in 1925, Johnson could have so easily
joined the ranks of office workers, but her obsession with
aviation was too strong to see her cooped up for long.
Moving to London for work as a shorthand typist, she
soon became disenchanted with her role and joined the
newly established de Havilland Aeronautical Technical
School at Edgware to sign up for flying lessons. The
demands of the course led to an ultimatum: it was either
the office or flying. It was not a hard decision.
Soon enough, in 1929, Johnson earned her pilots
licence and a few months later, having also learned about
aircraft mechanics, received her licence as a ground
engineer, the first of its kind awarded to a woman.
De Havilland saw an opportunity to forge their young
apprentice into a star, readying her for a much publicised
venture to beat the 15-day light aircraft solo flight
record from Britain to Australia, set by the Australian,
Bert Hinkler, in 1928.
On 5 May 1930, Johnson departed Croydon airfield
for Darwin, Australia, but was hampered on her journey
by bad weather and fuel shortages. Despite arriving four
days later than Hinklers time, her celebrity status was
cemented; she was met with rapturous applause and
appointed a Commander of the British Empire, as the Above: British aviator, of any act of outstanding bravery by
first solo female pilot to complete the route. Amy Johnson. a child born in Hull. She also wrote a
Below: Johnson in front
This epic flight would remain her most famous, but for of her Gipsy Moth just
book about her career, Sky Roads of
the rest of her career the world was glued to stories of her before she undertook a the World, and was appointed national
every move, as she made ever more daring attempts to 19-day flight to Australia leader of the Womens Air Reserve.
With the outbreak of the Second
break records and push boundaries. World War in 1939, Amy joined the
Her personal life was more of a Air Transport Auxiliary, to assist the
challenge. After six years of marriage RAF efforts. The details surrounding
to her pilot husband, James Mollison, her tragic death, in January 1941, are
she divorced him, in 1938, on grounds unclear but it appears that she was
of his adultery and heavy drinking, but either mistakenly shot down or lost
it hadnt all been disastrous. Together, control over the Thames estuary on a
they had achieved a record as the first routine flight. Nevertheless, her legacy
husband and wife team to cross the as a courageous pilot has ensured her
Atlantic from east to west, and pushed place in the history books. Q
each other to greater success. Amy Johnson memorabilia can be
Johnson continued to achieve, on seen at Sewerby Hall in Yorkshire.
land and in the air. Her stardom had www.sewerbyhall.co.uk
GETTY IMAGES