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This business report has been prepared as a part of Supply Chain Management for
the Bachelor of Fashion (F&T Marketing) at RMIT. The fashion industry is one of the
biggest players in the global economy. The raw materials stage, processing and
The objective of this report was to research and discover how the Triple Bottom Line,
frameworks were investigated in relation to brands supply chains. The Triple Bottom
Line serves as a central tool to support a firms sustainability goals. This framework
impacts on the environment, society and the economy. The Ethical Consumer Model
A case study of Honest By and Zara assisted in key recommendations and strategies
for the brands in terms of sustainability and the TBL. Honest By is the worlds first
100% transparent brand, disclosing such information as the origins of raw materials,
the address of the manufacturing factories as well as how much the garment is
marked up. Many strengths are presented in all three of the TBL concepts; people,
profit and planet. Zara was riddled with environmental and ethical issues and it was
clear that they would benefit from rethinking their supply chain more similarly to
Honest By.
Lastly, key recommendations for the fashion industry as a whole are outlined. These
included for the industry to become more transparent, a slow fashion movement and
The information throughout the report was sourced through peer-reviewed journal
articles, websites, and directly from researched companies (Honest By & Zara). A
limitation that arose was due to the fact that a university student conducted the
research.
Introduction
Fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world with every stage of the
aware of the human impact on the environment and social responsibility. The two
main issues concerning sustainability within the fashion industry is the earths natural
resources are threatened, as well as social concerns such as workers rights in third
world countries.
Cotton accounts for 90% of natural fibres used in the textile industry making it an
essential fibre used in almost every fashion label. Cotton production is extremely
water intensive and chemically pollutant, heavily relying on the use of pesticides. Not
only this, a vast amount of land is cleared to grow cotton, while simultaneously
habitats. Not only is the start of the product life cycle hazardous to the environment,
the last stage is often forgotten about- the disposal or end of life stage of a garment.
Fast fashion has enabled consumers to continually buy and throw away garments,
making it the biggest contributor to landfills. In the past two decades the global
average consumption has doubled from 7kg per person to 13kg- the Australian
average is twice that at 27kg per person (Milburn, 2013). There has been a shift in
the traditional model of consumerism. International fashion giants such as H&M have
enabled the average consumer to purchase garments at low prices. With such a fast
turnover, companies are still making a profit while selling a pair of jeans for $25.
Social responsibility in the fashion industry came to a forefront in 2012 with the
collapse of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh. Over 1,100 garment workers were killed
when the multi story factory complex collapsed (Coulter, 2016). The tragedy forced
global companies and brands to address the working conditions, safety and labour
issues that riddled the garment industry (Coulter, 2016). While the immediate focus
worker engagement. The Rana Plaza workers had initially raised concerns to
management regarding the cracks of the complex however were left unheard.
industry. The responsibility of sustainability does not just fall on fashion brands;
existing resources and limiting new purchases. Consumers are beginning to take into
account the impact that their purchases have regarding people and the environment.
Buy less, choose well, a quote by Vivienne Westwood is the perfect mindset we as
research area with a number of theories, models, and frameworks. The triple bottom
and a central tool to support a firms sustainability goals (Park & Kim, 2016). The
term triple bottom line was created by John Elkington in 1994 and proposes three
Fashion brands that are vertically integrated may find incorporating sustainable
functions that bring products to market (Supply Chain Brain, 2013). Brands that are
not vertically integrated must establish relationships with their suppliers in order to
guarantee an ethical supply chain. The TBL approach can be linked throughout the
supply chain. The people component of TBL for example may connect with the
practices, a firm may investigate how the garment workers are treated in factories.
The planet component refers to how environmentally friendly the raw materials
stage of the product is. Lastly, profit can be linked to the retail, consumption and
post-consumption stage of the product life cycle. However, there is some criticism of
the TBL approach. Hindle 2009 argues that the three separate accounts cannot
easily be added up. It can be difficult to accurately measure the people and planet
accounts the same way as profit. He explains in the example of how to calculate the
cost of depriving children of their childhood in order to work at such a young age
(Hindle, 2009).
disposability (Park & Kim, 2016). Park & Kim argue in their article that the TBL
approach may not apply to fast fashion brands. One of the main arguments
presented is that consumers may perceive that the benefits offered by a fast fashion
brand outweigh the negative aspects such as the unsustainable nature of disposable
fashion (Park & Kim, 2016). The main benefit of the fast fashion industry is their
cannot afford high-fashion products still have that desire for updated, on trend
impact fast fashion brands have on the planet and people. Unsustainable
manufacturing and consumption is what the TBH can help reduce by pointing out a
firms weaknesses concerning people, profit and planet. Park & Kim concluded their
research that incorporating the TBL framework will assist consumers perceptions of
G4 Sustainability Report
practices. A great benefit of this model is that it gives an organisation insight into
risks and opportunities. The model also assists in streamlining processes, reducing
costs and improving efficiency. On the other hand, Ghuliani points out a critique of
the G4. He states the recent development of the report puts increasing pressure on
companies. Brands now feel that sustainability reporting has become a burdensome
task rather than a strategic review. A framework like this must find the balance of
being an effective tool for business while not being too troublesome for the brand to
complete.
Combining ethics and shopping has vastly become a mainstream concept among
brands. The ethical consumer model best illustrates the combination of the two. The
a rational and ethically inflected way by considering the ethical practices in the
domain of consumption (2010, pp. 258). This consumer is shaped by their own
values and beliefs as well as their concern for fairness. The ethical consumer model
social change (Barnett et al. 2005). Through the promotion and packaging of
consumer products, companies are able to encourage consumers that they are
particular model is outlined by Irwin 2015, which points out that we cannot simply
shop our way to a better world (Irwin, 2015). This model supports the theory that
ethical and sustainable companies and brands would have the larger market share,
however this is not the case. Fast-fashion giants such as H&M and Zara dominate
the market by far in comparison to sustainable brands. In the 2010 Wall Street
Journal article, Karnani laid out the point clearly that brands believe that what is best
for society means sacrificing profits (Karnani, 2010). Adams & Rainsborough believe
have tapped into this growing market. In 2007, Fairtrade had a 47% increase on the
previous year (Fairtrade Foundation, 2009). It is vital that everyday consumers are
educated on sustainable practices within the fashion industry to normalize the theory
of ethical consumption.
opportunities for collaborations between larger and smaller businesses within the
fashion industry. The circular production concept means that the end product or
garment is entirely recycled then transformed back into fibers enabling the garment
traditional fashion models, encourages zero waste. For the TFC industry, this system
intends to keep textile resources, then recovering those materials at the end stage of
the garment in order to create new products (Gunther, 2016). However, closing the
loop does present challenges. Key principles set out by the circular fashion model
include Design with a Purpose and Design for Longevity. Both of these do not sit
at the low-cost culture of fast fashion. Another critique of the model is that products
must be returned by their end users at collection points, which the garments are then
unwanted clothes to these collection points without economic gain. The point
highlighted here is how willing consumers are to do this. A closed loop system is not
liable for major fashion brands and in conclusion is not enough to develop a more
Founded by Bruno Pieters, Hugo Bosss former art director, his theory is that the
consumer has all the power when it comes to ethical and sustainable fashion
the garment is traceable. From where the materials come from to where it was
made, and even how much staff within the company earn are all disclosed on their
website. Peiters created Honest By after working many years within the luxury
fashion industry. He soon learned that luxury goods at luxury prices were still being
working in Southern India, Peiters began to observe how the natives wore clothes
from their own materials growth, woven and sewn locally (Honest By, 2017). He
on an international scale. Honest By is true to their brand image and is not another
consultancy service to help other businesses develop their own traceable products
(Rineheart, 2012). Another social aspect the brand does well is challenging the
existing fashion mold. Peiters believes that true change can only occur when
leather, fur and other animal products used in the manufacturing of the garments.
Sustainability is apparent throughout Honest Bys entire supply chain. Suppliers are
investigated to ensure every component in every product has little impact on the
health of the consumer as well as the environment (Rineheart, 2012). Honest Bys
website encloses of total transparency of the processing and production stage. Refer
to Appendix C for a screen shot of the information that shows with purchasing a
garment online.
In the processing and production stage, the social or people aspect of the TBL is in
line with the brands values. Suppliers are vetted to ensure every component in
every product has the smallest impact on our health and the environment (Rineheart,
2012). Honest By ensure that working conditions in production facilities are safe and
The environment -or planet- aspect of the TBL is Honest Bys forte. Refer to
Appendix A for a summary of this. The brand is true to their mission statement of
enabling customers to make the most informed choice when shopping by providing
Zara
Zara is the worlds leading destination for fast-fashion consumers. Their success is
largely due to todays Millennials who are demanding, on-trend and value-minded.
public weeks after the designs premier on the catwalks. Zara is the main fashion
brand of parent company Inditex. In 2015, Inditex had an estimated worth of over
$100 billion (Indvik, 2015), well ahead of Nike and major competitor H&M.
In relation to the Triple Bottom Line, Zara was found to have a number of strengths in
the raw material stage of production. Refer to Appendix B for a summary of planet,
Zara have a vertically integrated supply chain, therefore not relying completely on
outside partners. Zara also claim to source their majority of raw materials locally in
Spain (Chettupalli, 2013). Moreover, Inditex promote raw material training for their
key suppliers. Participants are trained on the most common raw materials used by
Zara. They are educated on their environmental, social and economic impacts and
risks (Inditex, 2017). There are also initiatives for the use of more organic fibers to be
minimum, Zara use a program that sheers fabric in a way that there is little to no
The processing and production stage of Zaras supply chain exposes a number of
unsustainable and unethical practices. In 2013, Zara was accused of slave and child
appalling and laborers were made to work sixteen-hour days without breaks. Not
only this, workers, children included, were prevented from leaving the factories
without permission. Furthermore, in relation to the planet aspect of the TBL, Zaras
weaknesses outweigh their strengths. In 2013, Zara was linked to Chinese factories
that sandblasted jeans. The sandblasting process is extremely harmful and is known
to cause lethal pulmonary disease (Emmanuel, 2015). Not only this, in 2012,
strengths and weaknesses in regards to the TBL. The profit aspect of the TBL shows
strength in that Zaras demand is production based resulting in little inventory in their
supply chain (Pokharel, 2013). This then translates to a lower working capital for the
business. Zara own and operate eleven factories in Spain. Every garment
2013). This could be seen as a strength from the businesses point of view, or a
over the world to be inspected in Spain, and then distributed globally. A massive
amount of C02 emissions are released into the earths atmosphere. In terms of
Zaras logistical activities, most inbound logistics are road haulage and garments
manufactured in Asia are transported via plane (Idiji, 2012). Finally, due to the limited
runs and the large variety of styles Zara offer, garments are distributed in small
Areas of improvement lay within the distribution and transportation, as well as the
production and processing aspects of Zaras supply chain. More environmental and
ethical practices