Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Right, way back in 2008 we ran a question that we sent out to a bunch of hold company's and then we published the
results. As the climbing market has got much larger in the two years since we originally ran this we decided to run it
again. We pretty well emailed EVERY company around« some people flat out didn¶t respond, some people didn¶t
want to take part (They told us)
This is going to be a long long post... let's lay out what we've done
m
mm
ome of you may remember that way back we asked what we called the $200 question, this was asked to a bunch of
people about what you¶d send to people if they had $200 to spend on holds. (We ran this in Feb 2008), we had a
bunch of answers and as the market has progressed a lot since then we've decided to run it again!
This time it's a little different, we're being a little more thorough this time with the questions, they're a little more
specific and will take a little more answering. Please include images of the holds you're talking about with your
replies (to save us having to go and dig through your sites / my hard drive for them.)
FYI: You are being timed on this, we're acting like a customer so we are expecting timely responses (One week is
the time limit! From the second I press the send button) Results will be posted within the next few weeks, any
company that has been emailed but hasn't replied within the time limit will be included in the results, but we¶ll
mention that you were late with your replym
m
If someone called or emailed you wanting to buy holds and they had $200 (or the equivalent in whichever country
you're in) to spend on holds, excluding shipping, but didn't know your company OR your brand what would you
send them??? (Retail prices not wholesale prices) There are three different climbers that need help:
mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
spent upon foot holdsm
m
mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
a higher grade and they'd like to work on their techniquem
mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
to be spend on jibsm
Do you have a "Hold of the month club?", if you do how much is it per month and what should people expect to
get from it??
Do you have starter kits listed upon your site for someone that's building a home wall?
m
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What you're about to see is the results from the company's, in the order that they came to us. We've obviously added
a little information about what the holds are made from and we've run some math so you get a break down of how
many holds you get and the price of the holds. Most company¶s went for as close to the $200 mark, in all cases we
have taken prices from their site for the break downs«
Keep in mind that our price per holds includes jibs and foot holds (Where we asked for footholds). If you look at the
price per hold and then look at the number of footholds then you can see why that company may ³seem´ to have a
better price per hold as it does get skewed.
I'd like to point out that as I'm the rep for a bunch of companies in Canada (DRCC/Climb It/Project Holds) that if the
mail / call came through to me that I'd actually answer the customer. But to be fair I've not added anything, I've let
my guys answer the question and I've not shown any favor towards them.
We also liked the Element Climbing response so much we stole their formatting for easier reading« before when
this was being edited it was a nightmare to sort out. Now we think it`s pretty clean looking [ Every answer has a
break down after it of the price per hold and the number of holds in what has been suggested for that climber« in
some cases the formatting is different as to format it would have broken the flow of their answer
The email was sent at 2am on Wednesday, 21st July, here are the results u u
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u Responses from the company¶s will the in Õ Õour stuff is normal.
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mynrock is a real rock like substance; it feels very much like the real thing« a little like
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mmWe took
wm 42 mini cobbles / 15 intermediate and 11 low pro pinches
wm Total: $200 / 68 holds = $2.94 per hold
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m
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mmWe took
wm 5 screw ons / 15 intermediate and 11 low pro pinches
wm Total: $200 / 101 holds = $1.98 per hold
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http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/search/label/Petrogrips
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mNot bad, Jim was very quick off of the mark. It¶s not the fullest answer but it does give you a lot
of options for what you wanted. Your $200 would get you between 32 and 101 holds (depends upon what you pick)
You¶d also if you were the expert climber have to take the 5 screw ons as your jibs, that is a lot of screw ons!!
÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
spent upon foot holds
m
5 pack small edges
21 small edges
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mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
to be spend on jibsm
m
pack pinches
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imple jugs
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15 mini jugs
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÷ Do you have starter kits listed upon your site for someone that's building a home wall?
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http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/search/label/Atomik%20Climbing
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mPretty good, Kenny has a lot of experience doing this kind of thing. He was fast off of the mark
and just gave us links to the holds rather than giving us the images« so we had to root around to save images
m
÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
spent upon foot holdsm
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÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
a higher grade and they'd like to work on their techniquem
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mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
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÷ Do you have a "Hold of the month club?", if you do how much is it per month and what should people expect to
get from it??
÷ Do you have starter kits listed upon your site for someone that's building a home wall?
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http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/search/label/Holdz
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mHonestly rubbish. We asked for images of the holds and we gave descriptions of what the
climbers were climbing upon and their level of climbing experience. We have a lot of respect for teve and what he
does, but we don¶t think he really took the email very seriously at all« he didn¶t give us any suggestions for the
criteria of what we were looking for.
m m
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÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
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mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
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÷ Do you have starter kits listed upon your site for someone that's building a home wall?
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http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/search/label/Friction
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mPretty good and pretty fast, no images attached as asked. But Luigi did give us a break down of
number of holds and the prices per set making our life a little bit easier. There is a well balanced bunch of holds
here« we¶ll start working on the CHR starter set, it might take a while for us to make something that we¶d ³stamp a
seal of approval´ on.
There are a lot of holds coming from Friction later this year, I wonder if this question had been asked a few months
later would the answers be the same? Hmm
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÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
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Total Number of holds: 40
Total Price: $189.80
Price per hold: $4. 5
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÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
a higher grade and they'd like to work on their techniquem
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Total Number of holds: 28
Total Price: $202.80
Price per hold: $ .24
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Total Number of holds: 43
Total Price: $189.80
Price per hold: $4.41
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÷ Do you have a "Hold of the month club?", if you do how much is it per month and what should people expect to
get from it??
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÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
spent upon foot holdsm
÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
a higher grade and they'd like to work on their techniquem
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mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
to be spend on jibsm
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mCould have been better! Rather than answer each question one at a time we got a blanket answer
for all of the walls and levels, there`s not much detail here. But they will custom make the kit for you to fit your
needs.
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÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
spent upon foot holdsm
Rex
Jibs
Guidelines
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Lazy Boys
Warheads
1 Game Kube
Total Number of holds: 1
Total Price: $160.00
Price per hold: $2.25
m
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÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
a higher grade and they'd like to work on their techniquem
m
Rex
Jibs
Handroids
hapers Dozen
Phantom lims
Core hots
Total Number of holds: 69
Total Price: $193.00
Price per hold: $2. 9
m m
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mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
to be spend on jibsm
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Rex
Jibs
Hex
Lowriders
Game Kubez II
Total Number of holds: 58
Total Price: $195.00
Price per hold: $3.36
÷ Do you have a "Hold of the month club?", if you do how much is it per month and what should people expect to
get from it??
÷ Do you have starter kits listed upon your site for someone that's building a home wall?
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mPretty good, there is a very interesting mix of holds« we¶re not sure that a beginner climber
should be playing around on the Rex holds; but they are pretty incut and as you can see Contact like them so much
they¶ve added them for each climber.
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÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
spent upon foot holdsm m
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Total Number of holds: 29
Total Price: $195.00
Price per hold: $6. 2
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÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
a higher grade and they'd like to work on their techniquem
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Total Number of holds: 30
Total Price: $218.00
Price per hold: $ .2
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mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
to be spend on jibsm
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Total Number of holds: 28
Total Price: $198.00
Price per hold: $ .0
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÷ Do you have starter kits listed upon your site for someone that's building a home wall?
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mPretty good, it looks like they formatted their answers with an image and that¶s pretty damn
sweet! There¶s not a great deal of information (compared to some companys answers) We¶re not sure if they failed
on the jibs for the ³expert´ climber as we can¶t tell if the Mininova feet are bolt on or screw ons with a single screw
m
÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
spent upon foot holdsm
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÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
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Total Number of holds: 23
Total Price: $145.80
Price per hold: $6.34
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mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
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Total Number of holds: 39
Total Price: $19 . 0
Price per hold: $5.0
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get from it??
÷ Do you have starter kits listed upon your site for someone that's building a home wall?
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mNot bad, if you¶re the expert climbing you have at least 1/3rd of ummits entire range [ Again
these guys missed on the jibs and the footholds because they don¶t make any, it¶s something I think that they should
have mentioned .
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÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
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Total Number of holds: 22
Total Price: $1 9.93
Price per hold: $8.1
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÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
a higher grade and they'd like to work on their techniquem
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mAh they wrote a book and they did give me all the images that I needed in the response.
nfortunately the doc was corrupt and only half the images where there. There is a lot of information and it¶s all
pretty well informed stuff! They did give options for feet for the ³beginner´ climber but didn¶t actually suggest a
line of holds that are feet [
They did make suggestions as to what someone might want for their particular wall but if you take the holds that are
suggested they are more than the $200 budget, it depends upon what you wanted, so as there are lots of options you
can pick and choose your particular sets of holds, this is particularly a problem when it comes to our math when we
have to average out the price per hold so we took a suggestion and worked from there
I didn¶t format their response to be the same as the rest of the responses because it would have broken the flow of
their answers.
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÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
spent upon foot holdsm
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Total Number of holds: 33
Total Price: $238.40
Price per hold: $ .22
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÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
a higher grade and they'd like to work on their techniquem
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mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
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Total Number of holds: 31
Total Price: $184.80
Price per hold: $5.96
÷ Do you have a "Hold of the month club?", if you do how much is it per month and what should people expect to
get from it??
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÷ Do you have starter kits listed upon your site for someone that's building a home wall?
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mFast! These guys emailed me within the hour of the mail going out saying that they were on this.
ncarved Block is a company that gets overlooked a lot because of ³high shipping costs´, to be honest it¶s cheaper
than you think and it¶s air freight« we had some holds in less than four days. One thing is for sure is that none of
the shapes they chose will rip your fingers to shreds« they are ergonomic.
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÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
spent upon foot holds
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Total Number of holds: 35
Total Price: $199
Price per hold: $5.68
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÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
a higher grade and they'd like to work on their technique
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Total Number of holds: 40
Total Price: $194
Price per hold: $4.85
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mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
to be spend on jibsm
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Total Number of holds: 45
Total Price: $199
Price per hold: $4.42
÷ Do you have a "Hold of the month club?", if you do how much is it per month and what should people expect to
get from it??
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÷ Do you have starter kits listed upon your site for someone that's building a home wall?
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mChris Danielson is one of the big guns in route setting and he reps a few companies. I was
expecting more advice / information if I¶m perfectly honest as he has an absolute wealth of information stored away
in this head about holds and what would be good where. If there¶s one thing to be said he has put together a pretty
nice rounded bunch of holds for each climber
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÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
spent upon foot holdsm
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Total Number of holds: 40
Total Price: $210.0
Price per hold: $5.25
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÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
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Total Number of holds: 22
Total Price: $205.80
Price per hold: $9.35
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Total Number of holds: 35
Total Price: $211. 5
Price per hold: $6.05
÷ Do you have a "Hold of the month club?", if you do how much is it per month and what should people expect to
get from it??
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mPretty damn good, they failed on the jibs front for the ³expert´ climber but if you check their site
you can see that they don¶t actually have jibs on their page, they could have mentioned that they don¶t have jibs,
they also don¶t really have any bolt on footholds on their page« these are two things we suggest they add to their
line up sooner rather than later.
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Total Number of holds: 90
Total Price: $200
Price per hold: $2.22
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http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/search/label/Metolius%20Climbing
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mOk, I¶ll take the hit on this one« I did kind of email the wrong person; note to self I should
always go through the general email address rather than the guy who co-owns the company that has better things to
do. Keep an eye out as we¶re taking a very close look at one of their starter kits very soon for anyone that¶s looking
at that kind of thing. Either way their response is pretty interesting when it comes to the ³expert´ climber as we
specified that the person didn¶t know the brand and had never seen the holds from the company (that¶s a hard one to
swallow as Metolius is one of the oldest climbing hold makers out there), c¶est la vie [
Metolius has the most starter packs on the market of differing sizes and I¶ve been known to point someone towards
one of the packs when I¶ve been at Le Mec buying holds and they see my shirt (or in most cases the staff tell them to
come and talk to me (they kind of know me there :P))
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Total Number of holds: 24
Total Price: $201.80
Price per hold: $8.41
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get from it??
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http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/search/label/World%20Cup%20Climbing%20Holds
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mNot too shabby, World Cup is a new company and is always eager to impress. We¶ve not
reviewed much from them thus far but we do have some more reviews coming pretty soon« suggesting those
crimps for a beginner climber is a total fail as they¶re just too small in our opinion for a beginner. They also failed
on the jibs front« which is strange as they have jibs on their site, but they added jibs for the beginner climber and
bolt ons for the expert« WHOOP!
m m
÷mBeginner climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / Vertical and small roof section. They'd like part of the budget to be
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Total Number of holds: 40
Total Price (before discount): $213
Price per hold: $5.32
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a higher grade and they'd like to work on their techniquem
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Total Number of holds: 28
Total Price (before discount): $218
Price per hold: $ . 8
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Total Number of holds: 35
Total Price (before discount): $225
Price per hold: $6.42
÷ Do you have a "Hold of the month club?", if you do how much is it per month and what should people expect to
get from it??
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http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/search/label/o%20Ill
http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/search/label/Cryptochild
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Pretty good and the last one through the door« but to be fair Daniel was snowed and he mailed
me to say that he¶d work on it and get it to me by the deadline. What Daniel also didn¶t see is that we were acting
like customers« here¶s what he told me ³Õ-
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Either way o Ill missed an important point... footholds; the email contained specifics of what each climber wanted!
The expert wanted some jibs and this was missed in their reply.
They did include the discount that each person that was getting these holds with their information it was explained
as such ³
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Total Number of holds: 26
Total Price: $198.90
Price per hold: $ .65
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÷mIntermediate climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / Vertical and medium sized roof section. They're climbing at
a higher grade and they'd like to work on their techniquem
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Total Number of holds: 18
Total Price (before discount): $195.10
Price per hold: $10.83
m m
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mExpert climber: Home wall of 15 / 30 / 45 / large roof and small vertical section. They'd like part of the budget
to be spend on jibsm
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Bacillus et
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Mr. Tiddles
Total Number of holds: 26
Total Price (before discount): $195.10
Price per hold: $ .50
m m
÷ Do you have a "Hold of the month club?", if you do how much is it per month and what should people expect to
get from it??
÷ Do you have starter kits listed upon your site for someone that's building a home wall?
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This was late due to a ³in my spam box´ excuse, which was true! These guys are small but the
holds look like they pack a punch, in most cases you¶re getting a lot of their line up in the mix. The fact that after
getting my email from their spam they had an answer and some images to us within 2-3 hours is pretty impressive.
They missed the footholds for the beginner climber, but I didn¶t see any footholds on their site, they did mention
dual texture footholds for this category but I don¶t see any of the holds suggested being d/t
m m
Next time we¶ll go for weight of climbing holds and number of climbing holds and then we¶ll split our results
between resin (heavier) and other types of materials like urethane (lighter) so the results are a fair. But there are a
number of conclusions we can draw« if you¶re rocking resin holds they¶re always cheaper on the whole, but if
you¶re gunning for urethane you¶re paying a slightly higher price« but they should last longer.
Company Material tarter kits Hold of the Beginner Price per Intermediate Price per Expert Price per Did they
month club hold hold hold answer
well?
No of No of holds No of
holds holds
Petrogrips ynrock No No 85 2.46 85 2.46 85 2.46 Not bad
TOTAL
684 6.83 60 9 .0 665 69.32
m m m AVERAGE m
($) 45.6 5.122 40.46666 6.4 13333 44.333333 4.9514286
m m m m m
m m
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What we learnt is that if you send a mail to most of these company¶s you¶ll get a timely response, in some cases
you¶ll get a lotm