Professional Documents
Culture Documents
INDEX
No. Particulars Page No.
1 Introduction 3
2 History of Denim 4
8 Denim brands
8.1 The Original Three 44
8.2 Designer denim 45
8.3 The top 5 women’s jean brands by sales in US 2006 45
8.4 Leading brands in detail 46
9 Denim trends
9.1 New products 61
9.2 Stores that set trends 64
9.3 Hot new denim destination 67
Worn by the 19th century gold miners and the 21st century
gold diggers, the market appeal of denim jeans shows no
signs of fading-YET
Jean history would be nothing without Levi Strauss. It was first offered to
the US market by Levi Strauss as “Hard wearing work clothes”. It was
then taken up by cowboys because its good abrasion resistance was
valuable for horse riding.
The real development of the jean came in the fifties as a symbol of youth
rebellion. For many years jeans were only used as work wear clothes, but
by the 1940s they were considered leisure wear in America. Once pop and
film stars like Elvis Presley, James Dean and Marlon Brando sported them
they became desirable internationally and in the 1950s it was associated
with rock and roll and pop music. It was then turned into a fashion
statement in the “swinging sixties” and an even more exaggerated one,
with flairs, loon pants, and denim “hot pants” for women in the seventies.
The most famous jeans are still probably those produced by Levi as Levi
501s. 501s traditional button fly jeans designed in the Victorian era need
to be shrunk to fit.
By the 1980s ripped, frayed and torn jeans were a normal sight. Colored
jeans from white through to pastels were also popular as were
stonewashed blue jeans. In the 80s designer Jeans like Gloria Vanderbilt,
Calvin Klein and Armani were among the many fashion designers, whose
labeled jeans were craved to be seen in. Stone washed jeans also became a
must.
By the 1990s black jeans were very popular for a while and jeans in
general were seen a lot in the early 1990’s. It was during this time that
denim with an added percentage of Lycra was used to enhance fit and
comfort
Brandix Market Watch 4
In the 1990s denim also faced their recession period, as in these days the
youth market wasn’t particularly interested in the 501s and other
traditional jeans styles. The main reason for denim to be “out of fashion”
amongst the young during this period was because of their parents, the
generation born in blue: since no teenager would be caught dead in
anything their parents were wearing, the latest generation of rebellious
youth turned to other fabrics and other styles of casual pants, such as
khakis, chinos, combat and carpenters and branded sportswear pants. The
youth still wore denims, but they had to be in different finishes, new cuts,
shapes, styles or in the form of aged, authentic, vintage jeans. Due to this
Levi /Strauss & Co., the number-one producer of jeans and the “single
most potent symbol of American style on planet Earth” closed eleven
North American Factories and a nation grieved.
In 2000 designs were crystal beading and silver or gold sprayed jeans with
rips, frayed slashes, fur and feather decoration. Denim was hot again and
was used to make everything from footwear, jackets, bags, Basque corsets
to jeweled cuffs.
In 2004 In 2012
This is not contradictory to values given above as it is estimated that 20% of denim
production goes into products other than jeans.
The data given on the regions highlights the vast imbalance of purchasing power.
14%
Western Europe-US$16.17bn
18%
Japan and Korea-US$8.82bn
Total-US$49bn
33%
3% North America
Western Europe
8 6%
1%
5% 1%
7%
29% Eastern Europe-US$1.989bn
Central & S. America-US$1.577bn
8%
South East Asia-US$1.098bn
Australia and NZ-US$0.686bn
Indian Sub-Continent-US$0.549bn
10% China-US$0.480bn
Russia & "Stans"-US$0.343bn
Middle East-US$0.069bn
Africa-US$0.069bn
16% 23%
TOTAL-US$6.86bn
3%
13% 10%
2% Eastern Europe
Central & S. America
6%
South East Asia
1 6%
Australia and NZ
Indian Sub-Continent
China
0%
Russia & "Stans"
2 4% Middle East
Africa
2 6%
29%
North America-686m
40%
Western Europe-360.15m
10% Total-US$1715m
21%
5%
6%
3% North America
Western Europe
86%
There is less consumption disparity between different parts of the world by volume, but
the differences are still significant.
North America has quite a homogeneous market. Western Europe however is made up of
various markets, which have different outlooks towards jeans.
• Each of; Eastern Europe and Turkey, Central and South America, and South East
Asia and the Pacific buy close to 100m units per year.
• The Indian sub-continent and China have around 50m units each
• Russia and the “Stans” account for 35m units
• Africa has only 15m units from its population of 740m
• The Middle East has less than 10m units.
Prices of women denim trousers imported into the European Union were up 20% in the
first half, after Brussels re-imposed quotas on Chinese jeans. Far from protecting North
African suppliers, the new limits benefited Bangladesh, Vietnam and Indonesia while
Turkey kept its 25% share of EU’s market.
Prices of women’s and girl’s cotton denim trousers sharply increased on EU’s import
market in the first half this year.
Average unit price was up nearly 20% to 6.49 euros per pair.
As a consequence, Chinese suppliers shifted to higher valued products with a 78% jump
in unit prices at 4.86 euros.
Embargoes’ impact
2005 embargoes on Chinese jeans resulted in a fall in orders with shipments declining
67% in value terms and82% in volume terms.
Compared with other origins, China still occupies the lower end of the market, along with
Bangladesh (3.98 euros) and Pakistan (4.92 euros).
Indonesian prices even fell from 5.57 euros in the first half last year, down to 2.34 euros.
China’s share of the market has jumped to nearly 50% in the first part of 2006 in volume
terms. It declined to 10.47% in the first half this year.
Vietnam. Indonesia and Pakistan took advantage of China’s difficulties while Morocco
and Tunisia did not enjoy a similar rush in European orders.
Both North African countries already shifted to the higher end of the market with average
prices above 10 euros.
Turkey further raised its prices, reflecting the higher quality of its products. Turkish
suppliers therefore kept 25% of the import market in value terms ranking first before
Bangladesh.
1 9 .50 % 1 8 .59 %
Bangladesh
Turkey
China
3 .7 5 % Hong Kong
Pakistan
4.1 5 % 1 3 .7 7 %
Indonesia
Vietnam
5 .7 1 %
Tunisia
6 .7 3 %
Morocco
1 0 .47 %
Others
7 .42 %
9 .9 2 %
1 3 .69 % 8 .46 %
3 .91 % Bangladesh
1 2 .1 5 %
4.8 7 % Turkey
China
0 .1 5 %
Hong Kong
0 .46 %
Pakistan
5 .0 0 % Indonesia
1 .8 2 % Vietnam
Tunisia
Morocco
Others
49 .50 %
1H 06 2005 1H 06 1H 05 1H 06
Volume Volume Volume Volume Volume
Change Change Share Share
1H 06 2005 1H 06 1H 05 1H 06
Value Value Value Value Share Value Share
Change Change
EU’s imports of men’s and boy’s cotton denim trousers slightly declined over the first
half after surging last year. By re-imposing quotas on shipments from China, Brussels not
only curbed imports but also triggered a general rise in prices. Bangladesh is taking
advantage of the new situation with Turkey and Tunisia fighting on the higher end of the
market.
EU imports of cotton denim trousers for men and boys are stagnating this year, after
Brussels re-imposed quotas on shipments from China.
After surging 28% in 2005, imports of denim jeans declined 1.36% in volume terms over
the first part of 2006.
In value terms, however, the same shipments were up 7.33%, reflecting a rise of 8.80% in
average unit price.
Not surprisingly, prices rose after barriers were reintroduced on imports from China.
Down 75%
Imports of M/B denim jeans from China dramatically decreased over the first half falling
75% in volume terms. This was partly balanced by a 469% surge in shipments from Hong
Kong.
When combining both sources, however, the China origin still loses less than 10% market
share.
From 27.14% in 2005, China and Hong Kong fell to 14.73%. Although shipments of
cotton denim trousers from Macao also surged, they only account for 2% of EU’s imports
market.
Other suppliers in Asia mostly benefited from China’s decline on EU’s market, with
European buyers being clearly forced to diversify origins.
Bangladesh was by far the main winner, nevertheless, with a 26% rise in shipments from
an already high level.
In volume terms, Bangladesh is back to first place in the list of supplying countries with
26.70% of EU’s imports market.
China was the top seller in the past year and is now raking 6th.
Tunisia is still ranking second before Bangladesh with a share falling from 19.3% to
15.6%.
A large number of suppliers raised their prices in absence of competition from China.
Average price of Chinese trousers rose from 3.40 to 5.62 euros per pair, in addition.
Bangladeshi trousers are now the cheapest as a result, although rising 11% at 4.03 euros.
Pakistan is also a major low-cost supplier, ranking third in volume terms with an average
price of 5.04 euros.
At the higher end of the market, Turkey (13.10 euros) is fighting with Tunisia (14.33
euros) and Romania (14.86 euros).
Morocco occupies the in-between space with trousers worth 10.63 euros.
After falling to 16.5 per cent last year, Bangladesh's share of the UK market for
men's and boys' denim trousers rose to 24.63 per cent in volume terms during
February 2006.
With Chinese competition restricted by quotas, Bangladesh became the UK's top
supplier in this product line following an increase in volume of 21.5 per cent
compared to February last year.
At the same time, shipments arriving from Pakistan in second place decreased 36.6
per cent while those from Belgium were also down, 23 per cent.
This will be disappointing for Pakistan who had actually increased its imports into
the UK in 2005.
Supplies from China were 92 per cent fewer than one year ago when its shipments
had been surging.
A sign of the impact of quotas has seen jean imports from Hong Kong increase by
20 per cent.
Italian jeans entering the UK continued to increase at a steady rate and Singapore
has now increased its exports after performing weakly last year.
Other countries boosting their imports into the UK included Sri Lanka, Dubai and
Mauritius.
Prices rise
Bangladeshi exporters charged an extra 7.5 per cent (£4.34 per pair) and Pakistani
producers raised prices by 4.4 per cent (£4.69 per pair).
Italian jeans were still expensive at £39.93 per pair although this was 7.66 per
cent lower than one year earlier.
At the other end of the price scale, a pair of jeans from the Philippines cost UK
importers just £1.27 per pair and suppliers from Dubai reduced their values by
72 per cent costing £3.37 per pair.
China's jeans have risen by a massive 129 per cent which could be due to the
cost of incorporating quota prices.
US imports of men’s and women’s cotton denim trousers have fallen 11 per cent in
volume during the first two months of the year. Imports from China decreased heavily
while Hong Kong and Macau shipments surged. Bangladesh, Vietnam and Nicaragua
were other origins favored by US buyers. Prices were stable.
US imports of men’s and women’s denim trousers have fallen 11 per cent in volume
during the first two months of the year with shipments from China significantly lower.
As a consequence of new US quotas, exports from China have declined 77 per cent in
volume terms while those from Hong Kong were rising 68 per cent.
Quotas’ Impact
With China restricted by US limits until 2009, Hong Kong and Macau have seen exports
increase at high rates far exceeding growth for 2005.
Another result of US quotas, imports of denim jeans from Asian producers outside China
surged in the first two months of the year.
Shipments from Bangladesh were up 153 percent while imports from Indonesia and
Vietnam were rising 63 and 57 percent, respectively.
There also was a large increase in imports from Pakistan and the Philippines
As expected, Jordanian exports are clearly slowing down while shipments from Egypt are
now surging.
Production of denim fabrics in Egypt could also be boosted by the recent agreement with
Washington.
In Central America, a similar shift in results is apparent with US imports from Nicaragua
now surging while shipments from Guatemala are dramatically falling.
Unchanged prices
Prices paid by US importers were stable compared with one year ago, only increasing by
0.6 per cent.
From the volume and population numbers for 2004 the consumption of people/ regions
are estimated as follows:-
• North America, each man, woman, child buys just over two pairs of jeans per
year
• Western Europe, each man, woman, and child buys one pair of jeans per year
• Japan and Korea, the figure is similar, each man, woman and child buys one
pair of jeans per year.
• The rest of the world, the combined consumption is 0.1 pairs of jeans per
year. There are however wide differences between sub-regions.
Given below is the attitude towards denim between different age groups in different
regions.
The average prices of jeans in 2004, can be broken down as follows by region
In the developed world, a denim jean is sold at three completely different price points.
• As a commodity discount jean at prices around US$30
• As a mainstream brand at prices below and above US$50
• As a fashion brand or designer label at anything from US$60 right up to US$500,
probably averaging US$150.
US retail prices
As brands are priced higher in Western Europe than in the US. Hence jeans bought in the
US are considered a “bargain”.
• Levi 501 in USA- US$40.00
• Levi 501 in UK- US$60 (₤40)
(Based on a exchange rate of US$1.5=₤1)
Price-fashion matrix
The table below adds the concept of fashionability to the pricing lists to derive a two-
dimensional price-fashion matrix.
Although an authentic jean can look just like a basic or mainstream one, in the world of
denim its authenticity and “honesty” commands a premium price. In contradiction to this,
a celebrity jean would be regarded by a connoisseur as a fake. Yet that fake also
commands a premium price.
1000 Edo
Absolute Lee Originals True Religion
Top End Bluebell 7 for All Mankind
200 Levi Vintage Dolce e Gabbana
Nudie Versace
Daivid Bitton
200 Edwin E-Tab Joop
High Lee 101 DKNY
Diesel Juicy Couture
100 Earl Jean
LTB
60 Lee Core Ben Sherman
Lower Levi 501 Miss Sixty
Brands and Wrangler Basics Gap Spy
Own Labels 40 Swade Mavi
Sonetti
40
Marks &
Mass Spencer
Market Levi Signature Wrangler Joe Bloggs
Own Label 20 Falmer,Matalan
C&A Germany
At the other end of the spectrum, recent celebrity jeans such as 7 For All Mankind, Earl
Jean and most of the designer labels would be seen by the connoisseur as fakes, a
deliberate act of deceit by the brand on the true denim grasp but, it gets a lot of purple
prose from the marketing writers of the brands.
The world average price point on jeans is said to lower by almost US$1 to US$ 27.86 by
2012
Within that, and by region:
Denim jeans, based on population growth, on spending power and on the lure of the
Western Jean is anticipating to grow as follows by 2012.
Retail worth- US$53.2 bn
Number of units- 1,910m pairs
From a world population of- 6,977 m
The disparities in units between different parts of the world are less striking than they
were by value, but are still significant.
The main points are that
• North America will have 38% of unit consumption in 2012 but still from only 5%
of the world’s population
• For the same period, Western Europe will have 18% of world consumption (down
from 21%) but from 5% of the world’s population
• Japan and Korea will have 9% of unit consumption ( it was 10%) from 3% of the
world’s population
• The rest of the world will have grown by 2012 to 35% of unit consumption ( up
from 29% in 2004) from 87% of the world’s population
2012 2004
% growth
US$m US$m
Indian Sub-Continent 1116 549 103
China 891 468 90
South East Asia 1680 1080 56
Australia and NZ 990 660 50
Middle East 151 102 48
Russia & “Stans” 469 337 39
Eastern Europe 2880 2088 38
Africa 93 74 26
Central & S America 1623 1584 2
The main points to be highlighted from these line charts are, that those regions growing
most over this period are:-
• The Indian sub-continent, up 103%, which raises its share of the rest of world
consumption from 8% to11%
• China, up 90%, which raises its share of rest of world consumption from 7% to
9%
• South East Asia, up 56%which raises its share of rest of world consumption from
16% to17%
In jeans clothing, the main retailer brands are to be found in those countries where there
is a concentrated retail power. These start with US and UK where developed distribution
and economies of scale, have led to retail jeans brand leaders.
These three are the only real global jeans brands. For most countries in the world their
brand share cannot be quantified, except to say it is substantial. They have an estimate
themselves, but are not keen to share it. However from their financial accounts, their
geographic sales in major markets can be summarized in value terms as follows:
• VF in total (Lee and Wrangler, plus smaller brands) has 18% of the total US
market
• Levi has around 17% of the total US market
While many new “aspirational” denim brands have tried to take away their market share,
the belief is that it has only caused a small dent in sales for the “big three”. Though the
dent was not significant, these three iconic brands spent the last five years living in the
shadows of the much smaller, much flashier, premium denim segment.
The years in the shadows were spent overhauling their denim business and now with the
premium momentum waning, they are looking to take back some of the lost market share.
VF has been re-energizing not just Lee, but the company’s entire jeans wear division in
2005, while Levi Strauss was able to break an eight year streak of declining sales results
in 2005.
These labels overall tend to be either “street cred” or “fashionista”. None have any scale
and their time in the spotlight is likely to be short.
The company product portfolio consists of jeans and related apparel such as pants, tops,
casual and dress pants, jackets and associated accessories for adults and children. Its three
main brands are Levi’s, Levi Strauss Signature and Dockers, with each brand
encompassing several product lines.
FY 2003/04
Asia Pacific,
14.8%
Europe, 25.6%
North America,
59.6%
FY 2004/05
Asia Pacific,
16.7%
Product Development
The company has 200 merchandisers and designers and uses trend forums to identify
emerging trends and develop commercially viable style products.
Levis products range includes the flagship 501 button-fly jeans, Levi’s Engineered Jeans,
Levi’s Red Tab product line, Levi’s Blue line, Levi’s Red Loop, Levi’s LadyStyle, Levi’s
Vintage Clothing line, Levi’s Red and Capital E products.
Some of the new products under the Levi’s brand launched in the US market include 514
slim straight, 569 loose straight, 527 low rise boot cut jeans clothing, Levi’s Eco and
Levi’s Redwire.
Financial Analysis
The main reasons for the sales increase in 2004/05 were attributed to the following
Regional Performance
• Sales in North America increased by 1.2% to 2,455.1m due to:
• 7.4% increase in sales of the US Levi Strauss Signature brand
• 6.1% increase in sales from Canada & Mexico
Strengths Weaknesses
• Brand is strongly associated with the • Its dependence on a few customers
authentic and original jeans concept (retailers) for a greater portion of its
• It’s three flagship brands represent an revenues.
entire gamut of clothing, suited for a • With increasing consolidation in the
variety of consumers and have a strong US retail space, the retailers are likely
global appeal to gain better bargaining power, which
• Ability to leverage its brand equity in could result in price pressure.
conjunction with its design and • Increased debt resulting in high levels
marketing capabilities, to launch of interest exposure could be a
innovative and trendy products for additional burden
specific retail segments. • Weak market conditions in Europe and
• Owing to its brand value it is in a its poor customer service in the region
position to take advantage of the have affected sales
consumer recognition for its brands by
extending them to multiple product
categories, consumer segments and boost
its profitability
• Well established and wide distribution
network
Opportunities Threats
• Asia Pacific region is seen as a key • Retail consolidation in the US, could
market for the company in the future lead to the merged retails
• Men aged 15-24 yrs is expected to implementing centralized purchasing
register the highest growth rate in the US and store rationalization measures,
market which could threaten LS&CO’s
• The growing women’s jeans market in revenue performance
the US • The company operates in an industry
that is highly dependent on factors
such as general economic condition
and consumer spending patterns.
• As the company derives close to 45%
of its revenue, from international
markets it is prone to risks such as
currency fluctuations and taxes and
tariffs.
Future prospects
The company manufactures some of the world’s best brands including Lee and Wrangler.
The company is focused on expanding its business predominantly through acquiring
brands that have an appeal at a global level.
Key competitors
• Levi Strauss & CO
• Gap Inc
• Guess
• Hanes brands
• Calvin Klein
• The Warnaco Group
• Fruit of the Loom
• Diesel
Retail distribution/customers
VF offers its products in majority of the countries across America, Asia and Europe
through its sales force, distributors and independent sales agents. The company’s
customer base includes specialty stores, department stores, discount stores and retail
chains in the US and in select global markets. VF also sells select product through the
internet.
2004
US,
77.2%
US,
75.1%
Wal-Mart,
15.0%
Others,
85.0%
2005
Wal-Mart,
15.7%
Others,
84.3%
Product development
VF is focused on providing consumers and retailers with innovative and technologically
advanced products; the company conducts market research studies and surveys among
consumers with a view to understanding the prevailing and emerging consumer fashion
trends.
Other, 1.8%
Sportsw ear, 10.1%
Outdoor, 16.5%
Intimate Apparel,
14.8%
2005
Other, 0.7%
Outdoor, 22.4%
Intimate Apparel,
13.0%
Financial Performance
Highlights
• VF recorded a 6.2% year on year increase in 2005, mainly due to
- Acquisition of brands made by VF
- Organic growth, predominantly from its outdoor business operations
• VF’s jeanswear accounted for 41.5% of total revenues in 2005. With net
revenues at $2,697m, it reflected a 0.3% negative.
The jeanswear segment experienced a drop in revenues due to the following:
- Sales decline in the US following consolidation among mid tier distribution
channels
- Poor performance of newly introduced Lee brand extensions
- However the international markets (including Asia, Canada, Europe, Mexico &
Latin America) performed well.
Opportunities Threats
• The company plans to make new • Ability to retain its market share
product launches under recently depends on its ability to track emerging
acquired brands. fashion trends
• Plans for further strategic acquisitions • Competes against global and local
in the future brands
• Growth of the Nautica brand by • Price cuts due to competition could
launching it in Europe further erode their margins
• Licensing the Nautica brand to retail • Vulnerable to others infringing on its
stores in India, Middle East and China trademarks and IP.
is in the pipelines.
• Plans to launch a women’s sportswear
line under the Nautica brand in 2006
• Significant new product launches in its
jeanswear line was introduced.
• International expansions – China/ India
• Look out for global brands, having
growth potential in the US market.
Designed for both men and women, the jeans seamlessly integrate iPod plug and play
technology giving music enthusiasts the most innovative and fashionable way to enjoy
music on the go. The jean is designed to be compatible with most iPod systems and
features include a special joystick incorporated in to the jeans watch pocket to enable
easy operation of the iPod
The pants retail for US$250.00
The kit is a combination of tools, helpful guides and a history of denim. Included are
things like sandpaper, a seam ripper, a grinder, a paint dropper and more. Also included
is a “denim encyclopedia” entitled Denim Design Lab: a tribute to the beauty of vintage
denim. The book covers everything from tips for treating and distressing denim, to a
history of the clothing and the culture surrounding it. The book was compiled with the
help of experts at Levi Strauss & Co, Lee and Cone Denim.
US West Coast
1. Kiston
Location Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles
Target consumer Lindsay Lohan
Current bestsellers Slim-cut models from Stitch’s and 1921
Next hot trend Wide-leg jeans for the fashionista and Goldsign’s wides are
already flying off the shelves
Next hot brand Kitson denim
3. Blake
Location Portland, Ore
Target consumer Hip, up-wardly mobile Portland-ites
Current bestsellers The Laurel Canyon boot-cut jean from Paige
Next hot trend J-Brand-which has less branding
Next hot brand J-Brand, Z-Brand, Rag & Bone , Lee
4. Planet Flunk
Location Thirteen stores in greater Los Angels
Target consumer The UCLA set
Current bestsellers True Religion skinny and boot-cut varieties
Next hot trend High-waist jeans
Next hot brand Paige and Antik Denim
1. D Event Store
Location Adriatic seaside town of Riccione, at Galleria Croce del
Sud, 3
Target consumer Young, trendy residents who frequent Riccione’s
discotheque-soaked shoreline; weekend visiting out-of-
towners with style
Current bestsellers Straight and tight Diesel model in plain wash for 100 euros
Next hot trend Clean, pared down, straight-leg looks that include white
washes and plain darker blue washes for men, and tighter,
low-front-waist seafoam blue washes for women
Next hot brand Italian brands Nolita and Rare
2. Jam store
Location Via Santa Redegonda, 10 Milan, a stone’s throw away from
the central site of the Duomo
Target consumer From teenagers to 25-year-olds
Current bestsellers Meltin’s Pot model Nicole, Diesel’s Keate and Levi’s
Engineered model 136
Next hot trend Ultra lightweight denims, tight-fitting styles modeled on
jodhpurs in white and dark blue
Next hot brand Meltin’s Pot couture line Take Two
Germany
1. Galaxie Lafayettte
Location Franzosische Strasse 23, 10117 Berlin
Target consumer Fashionable women between 18 and 25 with high buying
power
Current bestsellers Diesel and Meltin’ Pot
Next hot trend Drainpipes and jeans in slim fit combined with Victorian
elements such as ruched blouses. Also drainpipes combined
with seventies rock-chic elements, such as striped or
checked tops and pull-overs
Next hot brand Cheap Monday and Acne Jeans
2. Jades
Location Heinrich-Heine-Allee 53,40213 Dusseldorf
Target consumer Women of all ages whop are interested in fashion and open
to new trends
Current bestsellers Victoria Beckham for Rock & Republic and True Religion
Next hot trend Skinny jeans will remain the trend for a while
1. Spree
Location 16 Rue de la Vieuville, Pairs
Target consumer Chic Parisians of all ages
Current bestsellers Acne’s silver like jeans, a mix of black and blue weaving
that give a shimmer effect
Next hot trend Skinny jeans and ultra-high waists as well as corduroy pants
in five pocket formats
Stockholm
1. Weekday
Location Stockhom, Sweden
Target consumer Die-hard denim heads
Current bestsellers Cheap Monday, Acne, April 77, Pace and Evise
Next hot trend Soaring waists with a hint of Seventies style
Next hot brand Ijin, a high-end Italian label made from Japanese denim
London
1. Start-London
Location Shoreditch, East London
Target consumer Fashion forward, young men and women
Current bestsellers PRPS and Acne Jeans
Next hot trend Elegant denim. “Dark and smartened up. Slim. Classic”
Next hot brand Acne Jeans
2. Harvey Nichols
Location Knightsbridge, Leeds, Manchester, Edinburghy,
Birmingham and Dublin, Dubai, Riyadh and Hong Kong
Target consumer Varied consumer segment
Current bestsellers “Frayed misfit from Sass & Bide, Blondie from superfine
skinny. Goldsign straight fit called Envy in a dark indigo
Typhoon wash
Next hot trend Dark Skinnies
Next hot brand Mid rise skinny in inky blue denim
Sweden
Their clean, cutting edge styles from niche brands such as Nudie and Acne Jeans are
topping best seller lists across the globe. While the rest of the world is just starting to
squeeze into skinny fits, the slim look has been a Swedish staple for more than five years.
Denim brands here are already on to the next wave, such as Japanese clean selvage
denim, with waistlines soaring above the navel and slightly looser legs.
Sweden’s textile heritage, industrial design sensitivity, love of American post war culture
and acceptance of conceptual ideas have all fed its strength in denim design,, making
Swedish labels hot tickets all over the world.
Hot picks:
• Acne
• Nudie
• Cheap Monday
• Dr. Denim Jeansmakers
• Julian Red
Stockholm, with its reputation as the “Tokyo of Europe”, is one of the leading cities to
Cheap Monday
watch in Europe for directional denim styling and attitude.
Acne Jeans
Dr. Denim
Jeansmakers
Nudie Jeans
Nudie Jeans 10. Leading Denim Weavers
Arvind
Arvind Mills Limited is the flagship company of the Lalbhai Group, an
Indian conglomerate with a total turnover of US$500m.
Readymade garments are managed by Arvind brands, which cover both the owned brands
and the licenses of some of the best international brands like Arrow, Lee, Wrangler and
Tommy Hilfiger for the Indian subcontinent.
Turnover- US$180m
Capacity- 110m meters of denim per year
70m meters of slasher
40m meters of rope
Arvinds seasonal collections are trail blazers in the international market and they offer
two collections per year. Arvind has around 2.5% of the world denim production.
ORTA
A Turkish denim supplier founded in 1950. ORTA today produces 36m square meters,
operates out of a 150,000 square meter mill and employs nearly 1,000 people. It is the
first denim manufacturer in Turkey and the second in Europe.
Working with a team of denim experts, famous fashion designer “Adriano Goldschmied”
and many fabric gurus, ORTA has set a new target for the future: To be the top denim
producer in the world.
Customer base- Levi, Lee, Wrangler, Diesel, Replay, Gap, Next, Polo, Ralph Lauren,
Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger
Travex
A Spanish company, it now claims to be the largest denim producer, in Europe exporting
80% of its production to over 50 countries.
Until the 1960’s, Travex primarily produced fabric for industrial clothing and the armed
forces, although it used indigo dyes from its inception. At that time a strategic decision
was made to concentrate on denim and significant investments were made in dyeing
machinery in Spain.
Legler
One of the Rolls Royce of the European denim industry is Legler. This Italian company
started in 1863 and has a high reputation for technical know how. It is based in Italy and
is vertically integrated with:
• Product development
• Spinning in two plants in Sardinia
• Weaving in Sardinia
Kaihara
Kaihara is something of an icon to true Jeans connoisseurs. The company was founded in
1893. They employ 450 people in a number of plants which are situated in and around
Hiroshima. The sales output is $175m.
Major customers include Levi, Lee, Edwin and Nudie, who state in their book,
The Naked Truth about Denim; “The denim used by Nudie to make Regular Ralf Dry
Selvage is made in Japan by Kaihara. It is slubby, uneven denim, with cream filling,
ring/ring in 13.5 oz weight, pre-shrunk rope dye double dip indigo denim, with a red
lined selvage. The denim is hand dyed with real vegetable indigo. This traditional and
natural way of dyeing with vegetable indigo is still practiced in the South West of Japan,
where you find fields of indigo plants and small indigo dye houses. Hand hank dyeing
and old traditional narrow shuttle looms give the selvage denim fabric an authentic and
unique look”.