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h # By Parker Jardine
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One day I became fed up with all of my excuses for driving to work every day. During the
summer I would ride my bike, but it would come in waves without any consistency. There is
one huge hill climb to get to my work that is quite daunting, and is the main reason why most
people take a vehicle, especially when you are running late. One day I said, screw it I am
going to put together an electric bike.
I recently read an article about what the average person can do to prevent climate change and
a green commute was at the top of the list. Besides everyone needs a project to work on
during the winter or rainy months.
But how would I build a bike? What motor would I use? What batteries should I choose? All
these questions and more can help you build your own bike.
Getting Started
Photo by Scott D. W. Smith
If you type diy electric bike in your favorite search engine, you will find a barrage of
information from electric drill bikes to the top 10 most expensive electric bikes. The
information can be daunting and lead you in many directions, only to cause confusion with so
many choices.
My goal was simple: build an electric bike that everyone can replicate with minimal cost,
without electrical know-how, but be powerful and reliable at the same time. Another major goal
was to decrease complexity over other builds, which in turn would make maintenance easier
over time.
My Parts List
Electric Mid Drive, 750 Watt Bafang BBS02 Kit with Led display and 25Amp controller and
thumb throttle eBay seller gregj8127 imports these to sell in the USA. Or you can view
kits here
Prismatic Lifep04 12 volt 20Ah batteries (4)
Smart LED Balance Boards (16)
Series Connector Bars (3)
LifeP04 smart battery charger
Battery box
Titan Straps (2)
Key starter switch
Inline 30 Amp Fuse and holder
Choosing a Motor
In my opinion, the first item you should decide on is the electric motor. Traditionally the hub
motor has been the most popular choice for electric bikes. With the hub motor you have two
choices, geared hub motors and direct drive motors. Each type has its own pros and cons
which can be viewed here: http://electricbikereport.com/electric-bike-direct-drive-geared-hub-
motors/
A relative newcomer to the scene is what is called a mid-drive electric motor. The mid-drive
electric motor is not installed in your front or rear wheel hub, but attached to your front drive
system. The main advantage to this system is the ability to use your own bikes rear derailleur
to change gears. The motor has its optimum rpm speed which you can sense when riding the
bike. When the chain spins really fast, but your speed doesnt increase, you simply change to a
lower gear in the rear to get the perfect combination.
I chose to use the mid-drive Bafang BBS02 motor kit. The downside to this design and kit is the
fact that the pedal-assist mode can crunch your rear chain rings in the back when
shifting. You typically have to pedal your bike to get the rear derailleur to change chain rings.
The controller then detects that you are peddling your bike and then spins the front ring. You
then hear a crunch from the back chain sprocket as it is shifting gears. There are a couple of
ways around this design flaw:
1. The manufacturer needs to detect not just the fact that you are pedaling, but also applying
a certain amount of force at the same time before turning the front chain ring.
2. You can turn the pedal-assist mode off while changing gears, or turn pedal-assist mode off
entirely.
3. Some people just tap the breaks, which kills the motor. Within this short amount of time you
can shift several gears
4. Buy or use a Shimano Nexus 8 speed rear hub. This allows you to change your rear gears
without pedaling.
For me, the benefits of this design outweighed the negatives. In the following videos, I
demonstrate how the bike performs with the Bafang BBS02 mid-drive motor kit. I would like to
make two notes: I am aware that I need lube for my chain (taken care of), and yes a bigger hill
is needed. Enjoy!
E bike overview
After choosing your desired bike, the first step is to remove your chain, front crank set, and
bottom bracket. Some chains are connected with a quick link which can easily be pulled
apart. Other chains may require a chain tool to remove a link from the chain to get it separated.
bottom bracket. Once you have the crank set This Electric Vehicle Kit Can Be Built
removed from your bike you will need to in a Week
Unless your number one love in life is bikes, you probably dont have every bike tool needed for
this project. It is a really good idea to make friends with a bike mechanic at your local bike
shop. Tell them what you are building and see if they have any good ideas. I did remove my
crank set myself, but did not have the bottom bracket tools. I took my bike to the bike shop to
have them remove my bottom bracket and install the mid-drive motor kit. I could have
purchased the tools to do it myself, but he was able to do it for me in as little as five minutes.
They didnt charge me because it was so quick and because they would be making money
on all of my bike accessory purchases (which is a really good business model and great
customer support).
The mid-drive kit slides through your bottom bracket and is screwed down tight on the other
side with 2 hex screws tightened to 35-40nm of force. This is quite a bit of force and is typically
how much force one person can generate with a hand tool using all of their might. One thing to
note is that after two weeks of riding my bike, I had to re-tighten the mid-drive hex screws. I
also had to re-tighten the screws holding my rear rack to the bike. Re-examining your bike for
loose components is necessary for any bike, but even more so for electric bikes because the
forces applied to them tend to be higher over time. Once you have the mid-drive kit installed on
your bottom bracket the rest is pretty easy. Simply route the cables coming out of the motor to
the designated locations on your bike.
I decided to make my own cargo-style rear rack with a wooden platform. To do this I took a 1x
4 board of strong wood, maple, I believe, and cut it to the desired length. I then determined
the exact location for this platform on my rack and used perforated metal hanging strap that
you can buy at any home improvement store to attach the bottom side of the platform to the
rack. I used short wood screws and cut the strap to small lengths and screwed the rack and
platform tight in several locations.
Battery-box holder: the top plate supports the weight, while the rectangle keeps the battery box in
position
This platform now solved the weight and stability issue of the battery box, but the box could
still slide side to side and fall off pretty easily. I measured the battery box and determined the
length of small pieces of 1x 1 wood strips that would wrap around the battery box and be
screwed together forming a rectangle. I then determined the desired position of the battery
box on the platform and screwed down this wooden rectangle onto the platform using short
1/2 brackets found at the hardware store. The battery box then fit right into the rectangle like
a glove. All that is left is to use some Titan Straps to cinch down the battery box to the rack and
she shall not move!
I ran across a forum on www.bikeforums.net about using prismatic LifeP04 batteries for solar
power storage (http://www.bikeforums.net/electric-bikes/900011-first-ebike-build.html). The
second comment by turbo1859 caught my eye. I paid close attention to how he has previously
constructed his battery packs using the prismatic cells. I ultimately chose these batteries for
the simplicity of balancing the cells, and the ability to remove or replace cells in the future
without having to rip apart the battery pack and remove the cells that are soldered together. I
could simply replace a cell without having to solder a new one in series or parallel within the
pack. The problem with these batteries is they are not lightweight. I believe all 4 packs weigh
about 26 pounds.
Almost any time you build a lithium battery pack you need a BMS. A BMS requires a wire to
connect to each cell to balance the voltage or state of charge across the battery pack. Each
one of these wires connects to the BMS circuit board to provide overcharge protection,
discharge protection, overheat monitoring, short-circuit protection, and balancing functions,
etc. During high discharge and charge sequences, the cell voltage and capacity can differ
between cells, thus the need for a BMS.
Using the balancing cells, a smart charger, and the motor cutoff thresholds, I would be able to
get away with not having to use a BMS.
This modular functionality in my opinion is very important. And the fact that
batteryspace.coms products are designed and assembled in the USA is important to me. So I
made my decision to go with these batteries. Of course I would have to buy four 12-volt packs
and 16 LED balancing modules. I would also have to buy a 52-volt smart charger to charge all
of the batteries when I wire them in series. A 52-volt charger would prevent me from having to
babysit the batteries during the charging process, which was really important to me. The smart
charger automatically cuts power when the batteries are full, preventing overcharging issues.
Batteries connected in series for the first time with battery charger hooked up to positive and
negative terminals.
Once I received my batteries I tested each cell and each pack of 4 cells for voltage differences
from the manufacturer. I then connected the four packs in series to quickly test the smart
charger. Once I verified that the smart charger was working properly, I then started to install
the LED balancer modules on each of the 16 cells. Each of these balance modules installed
without any issues. Each 12-volt four-pack then needed to be connected in series to each other
to make the 48-volt pack required to run the motor. The extra connector bars that I ordered
didnt quite reach from one battery to the other, so I flattened them down with a hammer to
extend their length. The length was perfect and it also allowed me to put a small piece of
cardboard between the batteries for shock protection.
After the batteries were connected in series I then wrapped the battery pack with duct tape to
secure them together. After adding sufficient packing material to the empty battery box, I slid
the battery pack into the box with a nice snug fit. I decided to add a 30 amp inline fuse to the
positive battery terminal of the battery pack. You could also add the fuse to the negative
terminal, but I believe it is standard to be installed on the positive terminal.
Battery pack stuffed into battery box with foam packing for snug tight fit
I then drilled a 3/4 hole in the battery box to mount the keyed switch, followed by connecting
the positive lead cables to the appropriate terminals on the switch assembly as indicated on
the package material. With each wire connection, I made sure to use heat-shrink tubing at
each cable termination. I then measured, cut, and installed the positive and negative cables
needed to extend from the battery box to the XT90 connector and cable that connects to the
motor. The motor came with an extra female end XT90 connector which I soldered onto the
negative and positive cables from the battery box. I also use this female XT90 connector when
charging the battery pack using the smart charger, since it has alligator clips and connects
quite easily.
The original battery holder design used a wooden battery box (above). However this design
posed issues with weight high up on the back side of the bike. When parking the bike, the
kickstand was very unstable. The bike would tend to topple over if someone accidentally
touched of the bike. I was also nervous when parking the bike at the grocery store or some
other stop in town. So I decided to remove the battery box and install pannier bags. This new
design is simple because it keeps the weight down low making the bike more stable. In
addition, the bags could be used to carry extra gear and items around town. The only
inconveniences are the fact that you have to run a series wire from one bag to another to
connect each 24V battery pack. As well as any 48V connection would have to span two packs.
Each 24V battery pack was then duct taped together and put in a separate pannier bag. Again,
I added a 30 amp inline fuse to the positive battery terminal of the battery pack. You could also
add the fuse to the negative terminal, but I believe it is standard to be installed on the positive
terminal.
As before, I made sure to use heat-shrink tubing at each cable termination, and used the XT90
connector.
Creating a Custom Kickstand
The only thing left was to add a double kickstand and some lights. The kickstand is really
important for a bike of this weight. In my case, the kickstand makes it easier to unload and load
my young son from the bike trailer I pull behind me. I simply flip down the kickstand and then
the bike is stable.
The problem with my bike was that there was not a top mounting plate for a kickstand. There
was, however, a small opening in my frame for the bolt to extend through. You have got to
check out the tire lever that I modified to become the top mounting plate for the kickstand. It
works really well, and I have not had to re-tighten or mess with it yet! Simply cut a tire lever
with a hack saw to match the width of your frame. And then carve a similar curve with a knife
or saw on the other side. Tire levers have this circular indention on one side, and that is exactly
where I drilled my hole to fit the kickstand bolt. And voila! The kickstand works great!
Unfortunately for me, the holes did not align up with my rear light. I simply drilled a hole
through the metal at the exact location for the rear light mounting bracket.
The front light/horn did not come with a bike handle bar attachment. However, I had several
laying around from all of my previous bike product purchases. Otherwise you can visit your bike
shop to see if they have one lying around the back stock rooms for free. A simple bolt and
nut is used to connect the handle bar attachment and mounting bracket for the light/horn unit.
First and foremost, make sure that when wiring the lights and front switch you measure and
connect your wires without them connected to the batteries. (This will prevent damaging your
switch or newly purchased lights.) My main wiring goal was to power the head lights, the front
horn, and tail lights all with one set of wires from the batteries.
I used some simple speaker wire I had lying around from a previous project. This wire is great
because it has 2 wires with a protective sheath on the outside. I stripped the wire 2 feet from
the end and crimped a ring connector on each end. I then measured and cut the wire to extend
from the battery packs all the way to the front handlebars where the switch would attach. The
switch unit has screws that allow you to see how each individual accessory switch is wired. I
connected my positive wire to each of the 3 wires that create the positive circuit for the front
light, front horn, and rear lights. The negative wire was then connected to complete the 3
switch circuits. An additional set of wires was then traced back down the frame to the rear
light. The front light wire set contains 3 wires enabling you to connect two hot wires and one
neutral. Only several inches of wire is needed to extend these wires to your wiring harness
installed near the front headset of the bike.
Small lightweight crimp connectors were used to connect the wires. The positive and negative
wires from the battery were soldered to provide extra strength. All wires were then heat
shrinked and wrapped with electrical wire to create the wiring harness.
Driven to Ride
In my experience so far, I have had to charge my battery pack once a week. Even with pulling
my child behind me to school and back everyday. However, I only ride about 7 miles round trip
each day, but there is one major hill that drains the battery juice.
First working version of e-bike, with built-in mounting system on rear rack.
Now that I have built this bike, I think that I overdid the battery pack a bit with the weight, but
the increased capacity, once a week charge requirement, and other pros have justified my
positive opinion of this design. The bike literally helped transform my life. I no longer drive to
work everyday, I ride my bike instead. Even during the cold winter months, I bundle up my 2-
year-old son and transport him to school. Im riding 90% of the time, which has drastically cut
the carbon emissions I was generating.
Resources
Here are some websites you can use to gather information that you will need to start building
your next e-bike:
https://www.electricbike.com
http://www.bikeforums.net/forum.php
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/
http://www.batteryspace.com
http://www.em3ev.com/store/
http://www.pingbattery.com/
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