Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Irene Good
Peabody Museum, Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts 02138;
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e-mail: igood@fas.harvard.edu
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INTRODUCTION
The craft of using fiber to produce goods, ranging from floor mats to bridal dowry,
addresses all three of the basic human needs: food, clothing, and shelter. Cordage,
basketry, and matting, as well as woven cloth, have long been such an integral
part of human adaptations that one can hardly pass through a day without using a
metaphor that is ultimately derived from the production of fiber-related goods. The
history of textile technology and its related crafts of spinning, plaiting, twining,
and basketry is long and wide. We now know from direct evidence that the fiber
arts were known in the Upper Palaeolithic on the Eurasian continent and came
with the earliest inhabitants of the New World.
The advent of producing spun thread from plant fibers is now recognized as a
technological revolution (Barber 1994; Adovasio 2001). Manipulating reeds, bark,
basts, and seed down into cords, braids, baskets, nets, mats, and cloth bolstered our
capacity to adapt exponentially. By fastening some of these manipulated elements
into passive threads onto a frame, the history of the loom began.
Direct evidence for looms is rare, but we find early depictions on ceramics in the
neolithic in Egypt, western Asia and in Europe (Broudy 1979). Looms diversified
in their evolution in different regions of the world as distinct weaving traditions de-
veloped. Simple looms are not limited to producing simple woven cloth, however,
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in Egypt. Bronze age cloth from the northern European bog-finds were among the
most comprehensive nineteenth-century recordings of antiquity. Rare and fasci-
nating to us, these tangible, delicate, intimate aspects of the archaeological record
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hold multiple layers of information about our past. The general recognition of
the importance of textiles as an aspect of the archaeological record has become
manifest, in large part because of the efforts of scholars such as James Adovasio,
Patricia Anawalt, Elizabeth Barber, Junius Bird, Irene Emory, and Veronika Gervers,
to name just a few. Over the past 20 years, the number and caliber of technical
studies has risen dramatically, thanks to a new generation of scholars and scientists
under their tutelage.
Perhaps more significant is a greater degree of integration of textile, basketry,
and other fiber artsrelated data into the main forum of current discussions in
archaeological theory, which is having direct impact on basic theoretical assump-
tions and paradigms. This chapter presents a broad overview of some of the current
trends in the study of archaeological textiles and related materials. Once treated
as little more than chance finds and curiosities, textiles, fibers, cordage, and other
perishables have now garnered notable attention in recent archaeological re-
search, not only because of improved techniques in their recovery and analysis,
but also because researchers are more aware of the value this kind of data holds in
the overall interpretation of archaeological finds.
Another important contribution to this trend has been the accumulation of
technical studies, which allows a coalescence of earlier archaeological textile
data, in both area studies as well as in diachronic studies, to the point where
synthesis is now possible. Research interests in fiber arts now range from clar-
ifying and synthesizing the history of technologies (Webster & Drooker 2000;
Barber 1999, 1991; Jrgensen 1999, 1992; Crowfoot et al 1992; Walton & Wild
1990) and ancient aesthetic traditions and their cross-cultural transfer (Rubinson
1990, Adovasio 2000, Anawalt 1992, 1998, Barber 1999), to palaeoeconomic
studies (Brumfiel & Earle 1987, Costin 1993, Jakes & Ericksen 1997), gender
studies (Brumfiel 1991; Costin 1995, 1996), and division of labor (Soffer et al
1998, 2000a,b), production (Sherratt 1981, Chapman 1983; Costin 1990, 1995,
1998; Brumfiel 1996; Kuttruff 1988), and fiber source procurement (Janaway &
Coningham 1995, McCorrison 1997). These vantage points have become vi-
able and informative lines of inquiry among art historians and archaeologists, as
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Sibley et al 1992), and content (Korber-Grohne & Kustler 1985, Good & Kim
1994, Good 1995a, Wild 1984) in the context of the implements (if any) from
which they are derived (Alfaro 1990; Bird 1983; Good 1995b; H. Tu, unpublished
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observations). These in turn are viewed within their social and physical environ-
mental contexts (Sibley et al 1996; Song et al 1996; I.L. Good, unpublished data).
This integrated approach has become a highly productive avenue of discovery into
understanding some of the social processes that underlie the agency of production,
use, and exchange, in terms of the generation and regeneration of style, genre, and
aesthetic, as well as technique, process, and valuation. We now are able to examine
how these facets of human experience are interfaced with regionalization, cultural
demarcation, and the expression of social boundaries (Barber 1991; Bernick 1987;
Cassman 2000; Teague 2000; Good 1998, 1999). Observing these critical social
processes through the diachronic perspective offered by archaeology has allowed
us to obtain a more comprehensive and seasoned understanding of issues that are
highly relevant to social science.
What exactly is a textile? Most textile scientists would agree that it can be defined
as a web of interlaced threads produced on a loom. However, there are numerous
objects that do not fall easily into that precise a definition, and there are several
classes of fiber artifact that derive from related but separate technologies (for
current discussions of terminologies and definitions see Emery 1980, Fowler et al
2000, Adovasio et al 1999; see also Seiler-Baldinger 1994).
The main venues for organic preservation are extreme aridity, freezing, acidic
microenvironments (such as those near a metal object), or nitrogen-rich bogs in
which little or no oxidation can occur. Each set of conditions plays a role in the
nature of the preservation and concomitant conservation problems and courses of
action. The ideal soil pH depends on the type of fiber. Linen and other cellulosic
fibers preserve better in alkaline conditions, whereas animal protein fibers such as
wool preserve better in slightly acidic environments.
There are several ways in which cordage, netting, matting, basketry, felts, and
textiles or their traces can be recovered archaeologically. They can range from
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212 GOOD
excavated in 1875, a very important corpus of textiles has been preserved. Al-
though many of the objects were compromised owing to the circumstances of their
discovery, the textile finds from this well-known site to this day remain part of a
large inventory of curated Bronze Age costume from northern Europe. The Tarim
Basin sites discovered during the early twentieth-century Sino-Swedish expedi-
tions of Bergman and Hedin (19271935) and the British and Indian government
expeditions led by Stein (19131916) and more recently by the Chinese (1976
1986) (Zhao & Yu 1998; Xia 1979; Wang 1986), as well as sites in the New
World yielding large amounts of perishable remains, particularly in the Ameri-
can Southwest (Adovasio 1972, 1980; Adovasio & Gunn 1986) and Peru (Bird &
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excavations have begun to accumulate over the past several decades; some
are recent studies of earlier excavations, for example of the corpus of cloth from
the famous discovery of Tutankh-amuns tomb (Vogelsang-Eastwood 1993),
and from the expedition to Pachacamac in Peru (Van Stan 1967). Others have
been incorporated into final site reports, such as the several excavations in
western Asia that recovered significant amounts of perishable fiber artifacts to
warrant attention, such as those at Palmyra in Syria (Pfister & Bellinger 1945), at
Gordion in Turkey (Ellis 1981; see also Bellinger 1962), and at Nahal Hemar in
Israel (Schick 1988a,b). Textile specialists have written exhaustive documenta-
tion of the technical aspects of these finds, and later technical and textile histor-
ical syntheses have also been written (Andrews 1935; Sylwan 1937, 1941, 1949;
ONeale 1936; Simmons 1956; Hald 1980; Anawalt 2000). With each genera-
tion of interested specialists come new and more comprehensive techniques, so
that techniques and methodological approaches can now address multiple lev-
els of analysis (e.g., Ericksen et al 2000). With the advancement of analytical
technology has come a plethora of scientific studies applying these new tools to
the analysis of ancient perishable fiber artifacts (Jakes & Angel 1989; Jakes &
Howard 1986; Good & Kim 1994; Chen & Jakes 2001; Chen et al 1996a,b, 1998,
2000).
214 GOOD
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Figure 2 Image of Linum fiber single cell ultimates from third millennium B.C.E., Shahr-i
Sokhta, Iran, using interference microscopy to highlight diagnostic dislocation scars.
a role in creating past social environments (see Deegan 1997; Johnson 1996;
Kuttruff 1988; Good 1995a, 1999; Rodman 1992; DeRoche 2001; Anawalt 1988,
1997; Cassman 2000).
A related situation to this is the occurrence of traces of thread or other binding
material in a composite find, such as a necklace of beads, where traces of thread are
still encased within the holes of some of the beads. The careful study of this type
of small find, along with the removal of matrix soil around the find during retrieval
in the field and withholding cleaning until examination, are each valuable tactics
to practice. Beads found from a childs grave in chalcolithic Nevasa in South Asia,
for example, retained intact thread fragments made of mixed fibers of silk and bast
(Gulati 1961). If this attribution and date are correct, the silk is one of the earliest
examples on record outside of China. This kind of find also occurred at Roman
Period Sardis in Turkey, where beads revealed traces of an exceptionally fine wool
thread (Greenwalt 1990). This fine wool is one of a rare number of early examples
of the development of fine wool fleece (Ryder 1969, 1983, 1987). These and other
small pieces of evidence have been gradually filling in the gaps of our knowledge
of fiber use in prehistory.
Thread and cordage can be studied for the direction and degree of spin, as
well as for fiber content. Much attention has recently been given to this very per-
functory utilitarian category, resulting in some surprisingly profound revelations
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Pseudomorphs
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tile finds, these delicate traces are occasionally found on calcined ceramic ves-
sels, metal objects, and even on stone. Pseudomorphs, sensu stricto, contain not
intact fibers but only their chemical breakdown products. Pseudomorphs occur
primarily when textiles are in contact with metal objects. As the metal breaks
down, the concomitant metal salts create a specific type of microenvironment
that is ideal for the preservation of textiles. Pseudomorphs are highly useful
for study because they often leave negative hollows of the fibers in casings of
metal salts, much like a fossil cast, leaving behind the structure of the former
cloth and hints of the threads and fibers (see Chen et al 1998, Janaway & Scott
1989, Boddington et al 1987). It is quite common, however, for these pseu-
domorphs actually to have trace amounts of chemically intact fiber preserved
in the matrix. Biochemical study of preserved fibers in pseudomorphs has yet
to become routine, although this approach is feasible for identifying fiber con-
tent and can be much more informative than chemical testing (see Good 1995a,
1999).
Impressions
Another form of indirect textile trace formation is in the negative; textile and
reed matting impressions are commonly found in clay, mud, and plaster from ar-
chitectural features. Textile impressions are also found in ceramics; in fact there
are distinct pottery manufacturing traditions that require the use of cloth. The
traces of the cloth are baked right into the pot. Various ceramic traditions from
regions throughout the world use some kind of technique involving cord-marking
or textile-impressed paddling; and some of these traditions have been carefully
studied (Bird 1956, Hyland et al 2000, Shishlina et al 2000, Shishlina 1999, Hard-
ing et al 2000). Impressions have been recovered from Mesolithic and Upper
Paleolithic sites in eastern Europe and Russia (Adovasio 1998, 2000). Sometimes
microscopic amounts of actual fibers can be retained in the matrix containing the
impression (see Figure 3). This humble class of artifact is currently transforming
fundamental perceptions we have built about the past, particularly in our deep
prehistory (Adovasio 1999).
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216 GOOD
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Figure 3 An apparently unintentional textile and cord impression in a baked clay nodule
from late fourth millennium B.C.E., Anau, Turkmenistan.
Figure 4 Extant paint showing detail of textile decoration on marble statue from fifth-
century B.C.E. Greece.
218 GOOD
because the information was not sought out. The vast majority of archaeological
fibers are badly degraded or carbonized by the time they reach the specialists
laboratory, and the limitations of conventional light microscopy can deter proper
identification. Without access to an array of analytical techniques such as scanning
electron microscopy, phase contrast and interference microscopy, and chemical
and biochemical methods, identifications are often lacking or even counterpro-
ductive. For example, the famous textiles from the Neolithic site Catal Huyuk
in southeastern Anatolia, dating to 6000 B.C.E., were originally thought to be
woolen (Helbaek 1963). Only later analysis by Ryder (1965), however, revealed
that they are of bast. The difficulty in their identification was because the fibers were
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from animal fibers in degraded condition (e.g., see Sibley & Jakes 1984). These
types of analysis have begun to be carried out on archaeological fibers, in partic-
ular with wild and domesticated silks (Good & Kim 1994, 1995a). Biochemical
testing can be applied to other animal fibers from archaeological textiles as well
and has been done recently with success (Good 1999). Another biochemical test
is polymerase chain reaction, where fragments of ancient DNA extracted from
proteinaceous fibers are amplified. (For recent application of this type of test on
ancient DNA, see Francolatti 1998; see also Paabo et al 1989.) Each of these tests
should be used as a corroborative tool for identification and should not be relied
upon in isolation.
Perhaps the more consequential problem, however, is interpretive. Imprecise
or inconclusive identifications can be misinterpreted, and then the misinterpre-
tations become amplified into general archaeological literature. For example, a
textile discovered in 1932 in a Hallstatt grave was thought to be Chinese silk even
though the technical report clearly stated that the chemical tests were inconclusive
(Hundt 1971). The general literature discussing the finds assumes Chinese origin
to be a fact, and the interpretation of long-distance contacts revolves around this
single assumption (cf. Wells 1980, p. 84; Wild 1984; Barber 1991, pp. 3132).
In another example, linen was identified among the textile finds at Gordion in
Turkey and assumed imported, simply because virtually nothing was known at
that time about fiber procurement in Iron Age Anatolia (Young 1958, Bellinger
1962).
Ascertaining the fiber in a fiber-perishable artifact will necessarily have a great
bearing on the understanding of this critically important aspect of material culture
history. The information required to make this judgment is not always consulted
or is not always available. Even when the fiber identification is accurate, inter-
pretation of it can be faulty. By using a multiple range of tests for identifications,
along with a contextual and environmental approach to the interpretation of fiber
perishables, a more precise knowledge of textile and fiber-related materials within
a given area can be ascertained, thus allowing for more refined interpretation of
finds.
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CLOSING REMARKS
A concise yet truly comprehensive review of the current state of research in ar-
chaeological textiles, from the Upper Palaeolithic to historic periods, in the Old
and New Worlds, is a truly daunting task. This chapter is limited to the review
of some of the more salient aspects of recent trends, primarily from reports in
English, although much relevant literature exists in many other languages, partic-
ularly from journals published in Russian, Norwegian, Danish, Spanish, Japanese,
and Chinese.
Archaeological textiles and other perishable fiber artifacts are materials that
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are highly conducive to study from multiple approaches: from the perspective of a
qualitative aesthetic discipline, as well as from a quantitative, deductive materials
science investigation. The processes of their production have required complex,
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scheduled, highly labor-intensive human effort and have always been in constant
demand (therein perhaps is the true significance of their being perishables), and
perhaps even more than the processes of ceramic production, they tend to adhere
to multiple semiotic and stylistic norms over time and place. Whereas fiber objects
are a relatively small portion of the archaeological record, textiles have provided
us with a relatively large portion of the information we have gained about the past.
For this reason the study of archaeological textiles and other fiber products holds
a unique position in anthropology.
Although they will never be as commonly recovered from archaeological sites
as more durable materials, textiles and other ephemeral fiber objects and their
related materials have been studied intensely for well over a century. There is also
much in the way of related evidence at our disposal that does preserve well. Recent
efforts in art history, textile history, and archaeology, as well as in textile science
and chemistry, have helped to create momentum in bringing cohesion, meaning,
and accessibility to this once arcane subject.
These cumulative data we now have at our disposal are amply suited for a
new generation of comparative studies and syntheses for addressing some basic
anthropological questions. Fresh textile and fiber perishables data can now be
interpreted with the aid of a large interdisciplinary framework built from what
we know, rather than simply documented in site report appendices and forgotten,
as they often were just 20 years ago. This new trend will perhaps accelerate the
process of bringing the subject of ancient fiber use into view as a serious sub-
discipline of archaeology, routinely taught to students of archaeology, museum
studies, and textile science, rather than being left to a handful of overwhelmed
specialists.
It is important to continue with diligence the restudy and revision of weaker
aspects of earlier technical studies when possible, for accurate data sets are an im-
perative prerequisite to producing meaningful interpretations. We must also strive
for a balance between technical acumen and relevance, taking care to increase the
level of integration between inference and assumption, rather than to compromise
one over the other. We can now expect much more of these valuable perishable
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220 GOOD
artifact data to come to the light of day, and we can also expect much more infor-
mation to be revealed.
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