Pole

Note on sizing:
This sweater is designed so that it will fit and suit your body
even if the measurements are not exact. The only thing you
need to pay attention to is your shoulder span and the sleeve
circumference. The rest of the sweater is just a circle and will
adapt to your body shape, no matter if you have big or small hips,
broad shoulders, or even if you are pregnant and showing a big
belly!

Finished Measurements (see also Schematic at the end of

the pattern)
Shoulder Span: 14 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 19) inches;
36 (38, 40, 41 , 42, 44, 45, 47) cm.
Armhole depth: 7 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11) inches; 19
(20, 21, 22, 23, 24 , 26 , 27 ) cm
Circular piece width: 18 (18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19,
19) inches; 46 (46, 46, 46, 47, 47, 49, 49) cm
Upper sleeve circumference: 13 (13, 14, 15, 16,
17, 18, 20) inches; 34 (34, 35, 39, 41, 41, 43, 46, 50)
cm
Total sleeve length: 19 (20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 21, 21)
inches; 49 (50, 50, 50, 51, 51, 52, 52) cm.
Total sweater length from shoulders: 26 (26, 26, 27,
28, 28, 30, 30) inches; 65 (66, 67, 68, 70, 72, 75, 76) cm.

by Joji Locatelli Materials

Yarn
Some time ago my boss gave me a cardigan which I Malabrigo Yarn Merino Worsted (210 yds /100g) - 5 (5, 6, 6,
adored. It was worked in a very thin yarn and it was 7, 7, 7) skeins
machine knit so I never thought I could make up a pattern
like it It was so lovely that several of my good friends Note on Yarn Choice:
tried it on, and I noticed it was flattering with a lot of body You REALLY need to use a yarn that can be blocked to make this
shapes. cardigan. The circular piece of the body is built using short rows
to form wedges that wont look good unless you really block them
And then later, I received some adorable Malabrigo yarn
out. So I strongly recommend you use a yarn that hasnt got any
from a very dear friend. It is very hard to get this yarn
acrylic or other fiber that wont stretch. It might be a good idea
where I live, so I treasured it and became obsessed thinking
to go to your local yarn store and ask for suggestions too
about what could I make with this gorgeous, gorgeous
yarn. I couldnt find any project that I thought was worthy Needles
of the yarn and then I saw my old sweater lying around
US 9 (5.5mm) straight or circular needles for the back piece.
I decided I would give a try at designing something similar
US 10 (6.0mm) straight or circular needles for the body and
to it in this aran weight yarn. Several techniques were
collar.
learned while designing this and some mods were made to
the prototype. I will give you all the information you need US 8 (5mm) dpn or a long circular needle for the sleeves.
to make this your favorite cardigan. I hope you enjoy it!
Other Notions
Sizes
Waste yarn and crochet hook for provisional cast on.
To fit chest:
Tapestry needle.
30/32 (34/36, 38/40, 42/44, 46/48, 50/52, 54/56, 58/60)
inches. Stitch markers.

75/80 (85/90, 95/100, 105/110, 115/120, 125/130, 135/140,

145/150) cm

2010 - Joji Locatelli For personal use only. Please do not sell or distribute! 1
Gauge (in Stockinette Stitch)
- 14.5 stitches and 24 rows to 4 inches (10 cm) on US 9
(5.5mm) needles (Back piece).
- 12 stitches and 20 rows to 4 inches (10 cm) on US 10
(6mm) needles after blocking (Body and Shawl collar).
- 16 stitches and 26 rows to 4 inches (10 cm) on US 8 (5mm)
needles in the round (Sleeves).
It is very important that you get a loose fabric!

Directions
The body of this cardigan is made in two pieces, and then
you add the sleeves.

First you knit the back, which is simply a

rectangle.

Then, you knit the circular piece. You begin at the

the neck, knitting counter clockwise and picking
up stitches to the back piece, which will form the
rest of the back, the fronts, and collar.

The entire circular piece is knit at the same length,

which will result in a drapey collar and neckline.

Circular Piece (Back, Fronts, Collar)

You will have to join this piece to the back, from its center
towards the left (as shown in Figure 1), so place a split ring
stitch marker on the top of the back to mark this point.

Some notes before you begin:

Back
You will join the last stitch of every right side row to one
Cast on 53 (56, 59, 61, 62, 64, 66, 69) stitches onto US 9
stitch from the back, but not to every stitch of the back.
(5.5mm) needles.
After knitting 6 rows (after joining 3 st to the back) you
Work back and forth in stockinette stitch until this piece have to skip a stitch from the back, and then continue
measures 7 (8, 8 , 8 , 9 , 9 , 10 , 11) inches; 19 (20, joining to the next following stitch.
21, 22, 23, 24 , 26 , 27 ) cm.
To join the stitches from the circular piece, work them in
Bind off all stitches. the following way: work to 1 st before the end of row, slip
last st to right needle. Lift the strand of one stitch from the
back and place it on the left needle. Now place the stitch
you moved to the right needle back on the left needle and
SSK these stitches.

2010 - Joji Locatelli For personal use only. Please do not sell or distribute! 2
Using a crochet hook and US 10 (6mm) needles,
provisionally cast on 56 (56, 56, 56, 57, 57, 58, 58) stitches
(See Glossary at the end of pattern).
1st, Row (RS): Knit to 1 stitch from the end, join the last st of
this row to one stitch from the back (the first stitch to the
left from the marker) as described in the notes before. Turn
work.
2nd and all WS rows: Slip 1, p to the end of round.
Continue working in the established pattern (remember to
skip a stitch from the back after joining to 3) until you have
worked 12 rows.
Wedge:
13th row: K36, wrap next stitch and turn (w&t See
Glossary at the end of the pattern).
14th and all foll WS rows: purl to the end of row.
15th row: K 35, w&t.
17th row: K 34, w&t.
Continue working the short rows this way until there are 7
wrapped stitches.
Next RS row: K to the end of row, lifting the wraps and
knitting them together with the corresponding stitch. This
row will count as row 1 of your next pattern repeat, so join
it to the back according to pattern.
Continue working in pattern, repeating rows 1 to 26. You
will have a wedge every 12th row.
As you begin to work the wedges, you will notice that they
look bumpy, like this:
Do not worry! It will look great when blocked!
When you reach the corner of the back piece, continue in
stockinette stitch and work a wedge every 12 rows without
joining stitches. This section will form the sleeve opening.
2010 - Joji Locatelli For personal use only. Please do not sell or distribute!
Place a marker at the beginning of this section and work
until it measures 7 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11) inches; 19
(20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27) cm from marker (the same
length as the back piece).
Now start joining the circular piece to the bottom edge of
the back piece the same way, as directed on rows 1 to 26.
Join all the way across the bottom of the back until you
reach the next corner.
Work again in stockinette stitch without joining to form the
other sleeve opening. It should also measure the same
length as the back piece.
Join work to the top right corner of the back and work
joining the piece until you reach the center, right where
you have your cast on edge.
Do not bind off these stitches.
Unravel the crochet chain you used for your cast on and
place these live stitches on a needle. Graft them together
with the stitches you had on hold to finish your circular
piece. You can also do a 3-needle bind off if you are more
comfortable with this technique.
Sleeves
Starting at the lower edge of the sleeve opening and using
US 8 (5mm) needles, pick up and knit 53 (55, 58, 62, 66, 70,
74, 81) stitches around it and start working in stockinette
stitch in the round. You can use double pointed needles,
magic loop or whatever method you prefer for working
small circumferences.
Place a marker at the beginning of the round.
3
On the 12th (10th, 10th, 12th, 9th, 8th, 8th, 8th) round, knit to 2 st
before marker, SSK, slip marker, k2tog (2 stitches
decreased).
Decrease this way every 12th (10th, 10th, 12th, 9th, 8th, 8th, 8th)
round a total of 7 (8, 8, 7, 9, 11, 12, 15) times. 39 (39, 42, 48,
48, 48, 48, 51 st remain).
Continue working straight until sleeve measures 15 (15 ,
15 , 15 , 16, 16, 16 , 16 ) inches; 38 (39, 39, 39, 41, 41,
42, 42) cm, or 4 inches (11 cm) less than your desired
sleeve length.
Gathered Cuff
Some stitches are tucked to create this look, as if the
sleeves were too long. For this, I first pick the purl bump
of the corresponding stitch 8 rows below and place it on
the left needle. Then I knit it together with the next stitch.
(Tuck stitch).
44 (46 , 48 , 50 , 52 , 54 , 57, 60) inches
110 (116, 121, 126, 131, 136, 142, 150) cm
You might find it useful to place a marker after each
section ends, so that it is easier to sew when you finish. To
make this, look up in the instructions how long each piece
should be for your size and mark the end of each one with
a marker. Then match these markers with the
corresponding corners to make each piece fit properly.
Glossary
Provisional cast on:
I use the crochet provisional cast on. There is a great
tutorial by Lucy Neatby on Youtube. I find it extremely
clear and I love to use this technique because I end up with
all my provisional stitches on the needle.

1st round: [Tuck Stitch 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 7) times, k8 (8, 9, 10, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3J-sUx_whE

10, 10, 10, 10] repeat 3 times. Wrap and Turn
2nd to 8th rounds: Knit And also, a great tutorial by The Purl Bee on short rows
can be found here:
9th round: [K7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8), tuck stitch 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6,
7) times, K1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2)] repeat 3 times. http://www.purlbee.com/short-row-tutorial/
10th to 16th rounds: Knit
Work rounds 1-16 once more. List of Abbreviations
Bind off all stitches. approx approximately
BO bind off
CO cast on
Finishing cont continue
Your sweater is almost finished. You just have to sew in dec decrease
ends and block it heavily! foll(s) follows, following
k knit
It is important to block all pieces of the sweater. The nice meas measures
thing about this design is that you will get a garment with p purl
a lot of drape. But the most important piece you need to patt pattern
block is the circular piece to stretch the wedges out. To rem remain(ing)
block my sample, I soaked the garment in soapy water for RS right side
about 30 minutes, then rinsed and took off the excess
sl Slip
water. Then I placed it over some towels on the floor and
sl m slip marker
stretched it until I saw my "circle" with the back and
ssk slip 2 st as if to knit, 1 at a time, then k
sleeves in the center. Try to stretch this circle as much as
them tog through the back loops
you can, always keeping its shape.
st (sts) stitch (stitches)
After it was dry, I also pressed it with a warm iron and a tog together
wet cloth. WS wrong side

An alternative
It is possible to knit the back piece and the circular piece
separately and join them together using mattress stitch
when you are done. You just have to be extra careful when
preparing your pieces to sew, because you dont want to
get more fabric in one side than another
To build the sweater this way, the only data you are
missing is how long to make the circular piece.
This piece will have to have the same length on the short
edge than the whole perimeter of your back piece, so for
the different sizes, this length would be:

2010 - Joji Locatelli For personal use only. Please do not sell or distribute! 4
About this pattern: Pole was first published on December 2010, and the directions included a way to attach the circular piece to
the back that didnt leave a nice smooth line. After working some more with this type of construction, I found a better way and
decided to update the pattern. This new version was released on November 2011.

Thank you very much for your support! I really hope you enjoy knitting this!
For comments or questions regarding this pattern, please contact me at jojilocat@fibertel.com.ar.
You can also find me in ravelry as jojilocat.

2010 - Joji Locatelli For personal use only. Please do not sell or distribute! 5