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beginner

wire
TAPER, BEND, AND FLATTEN WIRE

Forge an
EasyChain
Ma
ke a
link!
Do i t aga
in. Do it aga o it again
in. D

by Marie Cristine Knuff

S
imple shapes are often the most elegant and
the easiest to make. Once you master making one
of these links, the challenge is to shape the rest as
uniformly as possible. Using little more than pliers, a steel
block, and a chasing hammer, youll make 16 elegant links.
Then youll connect them with pairs of jump rings and
attach a custom-made clasp to close the deal.

58 A r t J e w e l r y2009
Nov Kalmbach
e m b e r Publishing
2008 Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form
without permission from the publisher. www.ArtJewelryMag.com
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materials
Sterling silver wire:
16-gauge (1.3 mm), round,

dead-soft, 24 in. (61 cm)


18-gauge (1.0 mm), round,

dead-soft, 2 in. (51 mm)


58 sterling silver jump rings:
20-gauge (0.8 mm),

3 mm inside diameter

toolbox
(see bonus poster)
Wirework
Jump rings
connect forged-wire
See Suppliers, page 77 links in this 17-in.
See Safety Basics, page 73 (44.5 cm) necklace.

www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m 59
1 2 3

Side view of filed wire

Links
Cut and file wires. Use flush cutters to
cut 16 1-in. (38 mm) pieces of 16-gauge
(1.3 mm) sterling silver wire. With a flat
file, file one face of both ends of each wire
(see illustration, above). I learned that by
4 5
tapering the ends of the wire [1], I can
shape elegant, tight loops.

Make loops at the wire ends. At one end


of a wire, use roundnose pliers to make a
loop (rolling toward the filed face) that has
an inside diameter of about 18 in. (3 mm)
[2]. Repeat at the other end, making sure
that the loops curl toward one another [3].

NOTE: In a later step, youll slightly


flatten the loops. Make sure that the
inside diameter of the loops is about 18 in. 6 7
(3 mm) so that the flattened loops can
accept two 20-gauge (0.8 mm) jump rings.
Forging the links gives them an
Subscribers, to learn how
Repeat to make loops on the remaining interesting profile and work-hardens to smooth dinged hammers
15 wires. the dead-soft wire. For ideas about how and bench blocks, visit
to alter the look of your chain, see Simple www.artjewelrymag.com/reference.
Shape the links. Bend each link against a Variations, opposite.
7 mm (932 -in.)-diameter mandrel to create
a curve at the center of each link [4]. TIP: To make sure whatever Connect the links. Place the links end
metal youre hammering ends to end on your work surface, making sure
Forge the links. Place a link on a bench up with a smooth, shiny that the center curve of each link faces the
block, and use the flat side of a chasing surface, the face of your same direction. Use two pairs of chainnose
hammer to flatten the center of the link hammer and the surface of or flatnose pliers to open a jump ring. (See
[5]. Then slightly flatten the loops [6]. (If your steel block must be Basics, page 72, for instructions, or check
you over-flatten the loops, itll be hard to smooth. Any indentations or out the video at www.artjewelrymag.com/
attach the jump rings.) Repeat to forge dings on your tools will howto.)
the rest of the links. transfer to your metal. Thread the jump ring through the loop

60 Ar t Jewelr y November 20 0 8
Process photos by Marie Cristine Knuff.
8 9 10

11 12 13
of one link and through the next link,

simple
and close the jump ring. Repeat to add
a second jump ring to these same loops.
Use jump rings to connect the remaining
links to make the chain [7].
variations
Add an extender chain. At one end
of the chain, add 24 jump rings in a 2+2 You can change the look of this chain by trying some subtle alterations:
pattern, which is a simple sequence of
pairs of jump rings, to create an extender Make the links in graduated sizes. Make some of the links with copper
Change the shape of the links. or brass wire.
chain for the necklace [8].
Add texture to the links with a ball- Connect the links with one jump
peen hammer or with metal stamps. ring instead of two.
Clasp
Shape the clasp. Cut a 2-in. (51 mm)
piece of 18-gauge (1.0 mm) wire. File
one face of one end as you did to make
the links. loop at the base of the hook [11]. This is Attach the clasp to the necklace.
With roundnose pliers, make a tight the first half of the wrapped loop. Make Attach the clasp to the necklace with
loop at the tapered end of the wire, rolling the wraps [12], and then trim the excess the remaining four jump rings, using
toward the filed face. Use chainnose or wire. (See Basics, page 72, for instructions a 2+2 pattern.
flatnose pliers to tighten the end of the on how to make a wrapped loop, or check
loop against the wire [9]. out the video at www.artjewelrymag.com/ Polish the necklace. Tumble-polish the
Grasp the wire with roundnose pliers howto.) Use chainnose pliers to press necklace in a tumbler with steel shot and
about 10 mm (3 8 in.) from the loop. Bend the wire end against the wraps. burnishing compound. This helps to work-
the wire around one jaw of the pliers to harden and strengthen the links. See
make a hook [10]. Forge the clasp. With your nondominant Basics, page 72, for instructions on how
hand, hold the clasp hook on the steel to use a tumbler.
Make a wrapped loop. Use roundnose block as shown, and flatten the curve of
pliers to make a 18 -in. (3 mm)-diameter the hook with your chasing hammer [13].

www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m 61
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