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With over 400 years of history, La Cocumella is a haven of

privacy. Its history began in 1597, when the Jesuits built a cloister
on the Sorrento Peninsula with spectacular views across the Bay of
Naples. Masterfully restored, the property simply oozes style and
charm with antiques blending with modern amenities in every guest
room. Theres a small private beach and seaside solarium a fabulous
furnished sun deck out on the rocks accessible by lift or through a
picturesque
pictu passage carved into the rock, and the hotel has its own tall ship,
Vera, built in 1880 and used for day cruises along the Amalfi Coast. Facilities include
three restaurants, a swimming pool and tennis court. Member of the Small Luxury Hotels
of the World, with a very friendly and helpful service, La Cocumella is a great retreat for
romantic getaways.

www.cocumella.com
ON THE TRAIL // SMART TRAVELLER

Budaest
RUIN BARS 1 ANKERT
Ankert is on Paulay Ede Street and
2 KUPLUNG
A five-minute walk and youre
is one of the citys newest ruin bars at Kuplung just look out for
with a clean, minimalistic interior. The
the grungy wooden gates if
former factory has two courtyards,
youre lost. The former auto-
poetry slam evenings and serves a
variety of drinks and barbecued dishes.
repair shop is known for cheap
Music lovers can get their groove on cocktails, live concerts and is the
with underground DJs playing almost stomping ground of skaters and
every day of the week. hip Budapestians. Theres a giant
painted whale watching over
Head to Budapests Jewish quarter, where revellers in the spacious beer
urban decay has given way to ruin bars garden; plus an art gallery and
quirky pubs in abandoned buildings resident DJ. kuplung.net
Words: Farida Zeynalova

3 FOGAS HAZ
Wander a few doors down
to Fogas Haz (House of
Teeth in Hungarian), a
4
former dental surgery and
squat. A cultural hub and
bar, this is the haunt of
creative types the walls
are adorned with works
by local artists and its
many nooks and crannies
include an arcade room,
a theatre and a tree-lined
courtyard made for
5 ELLT KERT
dancing until the early
5 On the same road is the hedonistic Ellt
hours. fogashaz.hu
Kert, an open-air taqueria thats a hit
with locals thanks to its tempting tacos
and chicken. Chill out with a cocktail
4 MAZEL TOV
among the paper lanterns, kaleidoscopic
Walk to Akcfa Street, where the new kid on the block, furniture and graffiti-splashed walls,
Mazel Tov, celebrates all things Jewish. Delicious Middle or challenge friends to a game of table
Eastern dishes are served up in the spacious garden to the tennis or billiards.
soundtrack of contemporary Israeli music, and theres an
impressive bar list with kosher vodka and endless varieties
of palinka (Hungarys potent fruit brandy). mazeltov.hu/en 6 SZIMPLA KERT
Make your way through
haphazardly placed bric-a-brac
at this pioneering ruin bar, which
opened in the seventh district in
2002. The former stove-factory
on Kazinczy Street is a multi-
ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE

storey, labyrinthine bar jam-


packed with vintage bikes, street
6
signs and old racing cars acting as
tables. Dont leave without trying
one of the local beers theyre
surprisingly cheap. szimpla.hu

ruinpubs.com

Jan/Feb 2018 41
SMART TRAVELLER // ROOMS

Pm Sings
WHERE TO STAY

From a chi-chi house to a chic B&B, sleeping in this cool


Cali city must always be done in style

1 THE LAUTNER
Step back into the 1940s with this gem by architect
John Lautner in unprepossessing Desert Hot
Springs. Four self-contained studio units each 4
surrounded by a walled cactus garden and with its
own theme sit within a larger compound with an
event space and 1950s bungalow next door. Units
from 186. thelautner.com

2 NO 444
Palm Springs doesnt get much more iconic than
this. This chi-chi Racquet Club Estates-based home
built in 1958 by the Alexander family and designed
by William Krisel. The two-bedroom house has
been brought back to its prime with Eames and
Saarinen furniture, Warhol prints, and a private
pool in the garden. From 197. coolstays.com

3 THE WILLOWS 4 OCOTILLO LODGE


A posh B&B, The Willows This one-bed condo
has been hosting combines 21st-century
Hollywoods great and mod cons and a 1960s feel
good plus Albert with period furniture and
Einstein since 1924. The artwork. Elizabeth Taylor
eight antique-filled rooms is rumoured to have
are named after famous stayed here. There are
guests, while breakfast and communal grounds and
a daily wine hour turn the the famous fan-shaped
luxury up a notch. Doubles pool. From 78 per night.
from 299, B&B. ocatillolodgeps.com
thewillowspalmsprings.com JULIA BUCKLEY

42 natgeotraveller.co.uk

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