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A PLACE IN THE SUN
MODEL KIRSTY HUME (LEFT) IN LOUIS VUITTON AND HER DAUGHTER, VIOLET, IN PRADA.
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FAS HI ON ED I TOR : JO RD E N BI CKHA M . HA I R, REC I N E; MA K EU P, JE N M YLES. P RO DUCED BY CLEVELAND J ONES FOR 360 PM. D ETAILS, SEE IN TH IS ISSUE.
WHEN WE FIRST STARTED WORKING ON THIS ISSUE Ashley has been a terrific role model for showing that
several months back, the idea was to shine a light on well- women don’t have to conform to some ridiculous standard
ness—to look at the many ways we’re now seeking health, of thinness to be beautiful or to have a career. Of course, that
calm, and an alignment between ourselves and the increas- hasn’t always been the case in the past, and Ashley has spo-
ingly fraught and pressured world we exist in today. (So fer- ken out about this in direct and straightforward terms. That
vent is the interest in the subject that, in the office, we started kind of honesty and transparency is, thankfully, becoming
to jokingly refer to wellness as the new religion!) And indeed: crucial to living our lives authentically, and for another shin-
You’ll find plenty of profiles of strong, independent women ing example of this I urge you all to read the remarkably
who are leading the charge to transform our lives, whether in moving essay that Mimi O’Donnell has written. Mimi was
the arenas of fitness, health, and activism, or with a particu- the partner of the late actor Philip Seymour Hoffman, and
larly personal sense of heroism. she narrates her love for a man who dearly loved her back
As the weeks progressed, though, that latter aspect took while he—and she—dealt with the addictions that would, in
on greater urgency as more and more women began to speak the end, claim his life.
out about the awful situations and harrowing experiences Lastly, our cover star, Lupita Nyong’o, whom I am
they had to endure because of the actions of men who used always thrilled to see in Vogue. Lupita may have become
power and position to subjugate and abuse them—physically, part of our Vogue world, but she is also most definitely of
mentally, and sexually. It soon became obvious that wellness the world: a global star who constantly shuns the obvious
is about far more than our desire for the experiential change trappings of fame, instead using it as a platform to high-
of meditation and a cool new exercise class—it’s part of a light her values and what’s fundamentally important to her.
sea-change moment for women, who are rising up to assert Returning to our wellness theme: Lupita was game to try
themselves and take charge of their lives. all of the new and unexpected places that one can exercise.
Fashion, the mainstay of what we do here, has not gone Yet in the end she—along with all the other women featured
unchanged by this, and that can only be a good thing. I’ve here—underscores that if one wants to truly find a sense of
written in the past about the despairing state of the runway wellness and confidence, it comes from that most expected
shows, which until recently featured an appalling lack of of places: oneself.
diversity. But things are changing. I’m delighted to see far
more women of color walking shows—at long last—and less
emphasis on the way-too-thin. Many of the best models are
refusing to be pawns in the fashion game but are instead find-
ing their voices and leading by example. I think of Adwoa
Aboah, Cameron Russell, Slick Woods, Paloma Elsesser,
and, of course, Ashley Graham.
GIRL, INTERRUPTED
For years High Maintenance cocreator Katja Blichfeld suffered S IT T I N G S ED I TOR : T ESS HER BE RT. H A I R, TA K AS HI YUSA ; M A KEUP, A LLI E S MI T H.
I
t was early 2009, President Obama was in the White up a television pilot about a grown man still living with his
House, and optimism was in the air. I’d just turned parents. Within months, we were sharing a Brooklyn apart-
30 and knew something good was about to happen to ment, living in a blissful cloud of pot smoke and domesticity.
me. At a barbecue in Los Angeles, where I was living We got married quickly. I adored his irreverent humor, and
and missing New York, I met a gregarious man in our creative synergy held my tendency toward anxiety at bay.
flip-flops and a seventies ski jacket, with a promise of I felt a sense of security with him, a sense of family—though
adventure in his eyes. Ben turned out to be an actor in town we were in no hurry for children. It was working together that
from the East Coast. We bonded over our love of sketch com- gave us joy and excitement. We made a couple of low-budget
edy and marijuana. A couple of nights later, we were sitting shorts, and one day, on a bike ride across the Williamsburg
on his friend’s porch, watching the night sky and dreaming Bridge, we came up with an idea for High Maintenance, a
L
ast winter, shortly after coming out to my
friends and family, I tapered off my anti-
depressants and started openly seeing women.
I was on a date with another woman when
I met Adele. She was our waitress, and she
seemed to glow from within. When she came
over to our table, she had a smoky voice and a daffy quality
that reminded me of Lucille Ball. The restaurant was busy,
but Adele kept drifting back, regaling us with a morbidly
hilarious story about a dead neighbor. It turned out she was
a writer and from New Orleans. At the end of the night, we
CALIFORNIA GIRL
BLICHFELD (ABOVE) WAS RAISED IN A SUBURB OF LONG BEACH, all exchanged phone numbers.
CALIFORNIA, IN AN EVANGELICAL CHRISTIAN HOME. Nearly a year later, I’m still falling for Adele. We share a
fondness for eavesdropping on strangers, and we wear each
Marijuana started as a nighttime habit, something to do other’s clothes. What we have reminds me a little bit of the
when I was watching television. Then I began experimenting beautiful little lesbian relationship I had with my friend in ju-
with it during afternoons and even mornings, eventually be- nior high. We would roller-skate and laugh and share clothes
coming a very functional—if somewhat miserable—stoner. and have sex that we felt too guilty about ever to address.
I didn’t tell Ben about my indiscretion with the filmmaker It’s a grown-up version of that, minus the shame and guilt.
at first. When I finally confessed, a few weeks after it hap- I remember the good times with Ben, and I know he does
pened, he was devastated, not so much by what I’d done, but too. We now live only a few blocks apart. We still share a car,
that I’d lied to him about it. an office, and a television show. There are days we spend
So I put a lid on things even as my maladies ballooned fifteen hours in each other’s company, and mostly the time
COU RT ESY OF KATJA BLI C HFE LD.
and I became convinced I was severely physically ill. It wasn’t has been peaceful. Work is always where we are at our best;
just my stomach. My mouth hurt, and I was experiencing if we argue, it’s far less often, and we’ve improved at taking
a sensation of electric sparks throughout my body. I self- a breath first. He’s begun dating and moving on with his life.
diagnosed—I had neuralgia! Or possibly an STD! Over the I feel lighter and healthier than I ever have.
course of a year I went to several doctors, and they all told The other day I walked into my therapist’s office, and I
me there was nothing wrong. could sense her watching me as I took off my coat. “I feel like
Eventually, I made an offhand remark one day in therapy I just got a glimpse of you as a child,” she told me.—AS TOLD
about feeling jealous of lesbian couples, and what I imagined TO LAUREN MECHLING
S EA N T HO M AS. FASH I O N ED ITOR : ALEX H AR R INGTON. H AIR , TAMAS TUZ ES; MAKEUP, J EN MYLES.
P RO DUC ED BY A N ASTASI A BLAD ES FOR 360 PM. D ETAILS, SEE IN TH IS ISSUE.
IT’S A MATCH
DESIGNER VIRGIL
ABLOH WITH
MODEL DILONE,
WHO WEARS
OFF-WHITE C/O
BURTON X VOGUE
BIB PANTS ($900)
AND TECHNICAL
T-SHIRT ($225);
BURTON.COM.
Game
Changers
Fashion’s coolest creatives rip it up
with the sports-and-activewear
world for chic, innovative pieces.
1 Rio to Paris
Brazilian painter Tarsila do Amaral did
LICENCIAMENTOS. BOTTOM: BAYA MAHIEDDINE. U NTI TL E D, 1992 . GOUACHE ON PAPER AND PENCIL ON PAPER. 29½" X 39½" . PH OTOGRAPH © CH R ISTIE’S IMAGES/BR ID GEMAN I MAGES.
her time in Parisian Cubist boot camp,
but she ultimately developed an earthy,
TO P : TA RS I LA D O A MA RA L . A BA P ORU, 1928. OIL ON CANVAS. 337/16 " X 28 ¾" . COLLECTION MALBA, MUSEO D E ARTE LATINOAMER ICANO D E BUENOS AIR ES. © TARSILA D O AMARAL
landscape-infused style all her own—
and inspired an entire “cannibalist”
manifesto urging Brazilian artists to
digest other countries’ traditions. Nearly
130 works from the artist arrive at
MoMA this February.
2 Glitter-à-Go-Go
The sumptuous, textured abstractions
of Howardena Pindell (materials
deployed include glitter, talcum powder,
and hole-punch scraps) arrive at the
Museum of Contemporary Art in
Chicago in February. After an accident
in 1979 left her with short-term amnesia,
Pindell turned toward broader cultural
concerns, reflected in this sweeping
survey of her five-decades-long career.
FIGURE PAINTING
ABOVE: TARSILA DO AMARAL’S PAINTING
ABAPORU (1928) WOULD INSPIRE THE
“CANNIBALIST” MANIFESTO OF BRAZIL.
RIGHT: A TRIO OF VIBRANT WOMEN IN BAYA
MAHIEDDINE’S UNTITLED WORK FROM 1992.
3 Delayed Debut
Orphaned at five and entirely
self-taught, Algerian artist Baya
Mahieddine had her first exhibition
in mid–twentieth century Paris at
the age of sixteen. Flamboyant,
surreal, and supersaturated,
Mahieddine’s work caught the eye of
Pablo Picasso, with whom she later
collaborated. She’ll have her first-ever
North American show in January at
NYU’s Grey Art Gallery. A R T> 3 2
BODY ART: GEOFF MCFETRIDGE. CONTI N UOUS GI R LS , 2014. 4 0” X 5 0 ”, ACRY LI C O N CANVAS. VALLETTA: ZOE GH ERTNER , VO GUE , 20 17.
bring about real change in our society.”
2 Danielle Zinaich
“Everyone is different,” says Zinaich, a
homeopath whose own regimen includes
craniosacral therapy, seeing a shaman,
and sessions in her infrared sauna. Among
her simpler practices: dry brushing
for lymphatic-system stimulation and
taking Hyland’s Bioplasma tablets.
4 Tasha Tilberg
“Whenever I’m feeling stressed, I get
outside,” says the model mom and grape-
grower, who also meditates, practices
asana yoga, drinks matcha tea, and utilizes
Mountain Rose Herbs essential oils.
5 Angela Lindvall
“So much of our world is focused on the
external,” says model/entrepreneur
Angela Lindvall, who aims to generate
life-force energy from within. A devotee
of kundalini yoga, she sees interest in
“sacred sexuality” heating up—and
recommends reading Lover’s Path to
Enlightenment.—LAIRD BORRELLI-PERSSON
BA DU: MARK BORTHWICK. SITTINGS EDITOR: GABRIELLA KAREFA-JOHNSON. HAIR, VIRGINIE MOREIRA;
Mineral Spirit
rumored to bathe with for youth
preservation are now powering all
manner of natural skin-care products.
California-based Aquarian Soul’s
Chaparral and White Sage Healing
With purported healing and energizing benefits, crystals Oil is bolstered by reparative green
3 Hold Steady
Woom Center, New York’s go-to for yoga
and sound therapy, has debuted Woom
Rest, its least physically strenuous
class, which uses props and restorative
poses to balance the body and mind.
4 Peaceful Warrior
NoHo newcomer Box + Flow puts
Head Trip
a Zen spin on the pugilistic
phenomenon. Classes begin with
shadowboxing and end with a sequence
of shoulder- and hip-opening poses.
5 Class Act A guide to mindful traveling, where all roads lead to chill.
Taryn Toomey’s The Class has a
reputation as the hardest workout from 1 Guiding handpicked by founder
Spirit Kristina Roth).“We want experts guide intrepid
coast to coast. The new Restore
SuperShe island to be touritsts up Omani
version soothes the nervous system “Mindful travel isn’t a rejuvenating, safe mountains, and chefs
by incorporating yoga and meditation a new idea—we used space for women,” says will journey alongside
into Toomey’s tough and tested to just call it ‘travel,’ ” Roth. “No distractions.” the culinary-minded
moves.—MICHAELA BECHLER says Sara Clemence, through South India.
EASY DOES IT whose new book, 3 On Mute
LOW-IMPACT WORKOUTS ARE HAVING A MOMENT. Away & Aware: A Field Get thee to the Umbrian 5 From the
PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRUCE WEBER, VOGUE, 2015. Guide to Mindful Travel escape Eremito for a Source
(Dovetail), refashions
3: MA RCO RAVAS I NI /COURT ESY O F ERE MI TO. 4 : COURTESY O F
VOGUE.COM
January 2018
We l l &
42
not good at things.” She is about to leave for Australia to begin insider-outsider status in America. As a woman raised in an
preproduction on an independent comedy/horror film called African country, she had other concerns before she ever had
Little Monsters, directed by Abe Forsythe, in which she plays to consider the implications of race. “Growing up Kenyan,
a kindergarten teacher. Right now, she is in the period of self- we are used to wishing for more than what seems available,”
doubt she usually experiences when starting a new project, she her friend Odera tells me. “So we are aware that we will have
says, “feeling like a total rookie.” to push harder—what will you bring to the table?”
When Nyong’o was growing up in Nairobi, she was known In Nyong’o’s case, the answer is: a lot. She is moving
for her playfulness. (Obsessed with plaid, she was “the oddest- ahead with the screen-adaptation rights she optioned for
dressed member” of her family, she recalls.) “She was very Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s novel Americanah—a love
smart and clever, but also very naughty,” her childhood friend story about a young Nigerian couple who take separate
Belinda Odera, a lawyer who practices in Nairobi, tells me. paths before reuniting. Nyong’o will star as the headstrong
Nyong’o kept a book of lyrics to their favorite pop songs in protagonist, who finds herself becoming a popular blog-
class, and carried around a snake preserved in formaldehyde ger in America, and she is also delving into the production
to scare people. Years later, at the Yale School of Drama, process. “Americanah is close to actually rolling camera—it’s
her friends appreciated those same qualities. “Lupita could about time,” Nyong’o says. She will be making the film with
break it down on the dance floor,” her former classmate the production company Plan B, which was cofounded by
Lileana Blain-Cruz says. “I remember her running around, a Brad Pitt, her costar in, and a producer of, 12 Years a Slave.
ball of joy and exuberance that would keep the party going.” As for the stage, she is waiting to find a play that excites her
Nyong’o performed in productions helmed by Blain-Cruz, as much as her last project, Danai Gurira’s Eclipsed. “I am
now an Obie Award–winning director. “In her acting, she a theater baby first and foremost,” she says. “It may pull me
could go to the crazy places, and that was always impressive,” back sooner than I think.”
says Blain-Cruz. Boseman describes her mischievous provo- From Nairobi, with stints living in Amherst (where she
cations of Black Panther’s director, Ryan Coogler. “She com- went to Hampshire College), the Mexican city of Taxco
piled this whole list of ‘Cooglerisms’ that we (where she spent time learning Spanish), and
would all repeat and make fun of,” he says. New Haven, Nyong’o is still mulling the con-
cept of home. When she first moved to New
An acute sense of self, and resulting unwill- “I got such a York, “I had the mattress on the floor for so
ingness to bend to please others, has some- head start in this long, my mom was like, ‘Buy a bed. You are
times made Nyong’o appear aloof to fans alive now, and you need a bed now. Accept
and prickly to journalists. Her way of car- industry,” your existence as it is in the moment,’” she
rying herself seems to arise not only from says Nyong’o. recalls with a laugh. So she bought a bed
self-protectiveness but also from a certainty and dug into Brooklyn: eating local, going
of her worth. Amid news breaking this fall “I don’t think of to farmers’ markets, finding out who her city
about Harvey Weinstein, the prominent what I don’t representatives are. Nyong’o is also relishing
Hollywood producer who is alleged to have her free time, listening to podcasts (she loves
sexually harassed and assaulted dozens of have, I think of “On Being” and “The Business”), going out
women, Nyong’o wrote an explosive op-ed
for The New York Times. In hauntingly lucid
what I do” for oysters with friends, cooking (“I like to
make salads,” she says), checking out fashion
prose, she described being harassed by the (Off-White is her current favorite), and laugh-
producer, who claimed he was interested in ing at the comedy of Russell Brand.
her work and repeatedly propositioned her when she was a A few weeks after our lunch, Nyong’o and I meet up again.
student. “What I am most interested in now is combating the It is early October, and she has just returned from Sydney.
shame we go through that keeps us isolated and allows for She is wearing an olive-green beret with a bright-red star that
harm to continue to be done,” Nyong’o wrote. “Now that we she bought in Cuba. It gives her an air of fierceness; she says
are speaking, let us never shut up about this kind of thing.” it makes her feel rebellious. Nyong’o and I are riding in a car
The piece is both assured and moving: striking for both the on the way to a photo shoot, and she leans back into the seat,
story she tells and the vulnerability she so plainly shows. appearing both tired and restless. As we move through streets
Post pole-dancing, over lunch in a nearby hotel—gluten- crowded with taxis and people, we talk in a shared shorthand
free carrot tartare (hers) and sausage-laden butternut squash about her time spent filming in Uganda (for Queen of Katwe)
(mine)—I ask Nyong’o about her vulnerabilities, such as how and studying in Mexico, places where I have also lived and of
she navigates the risks of being pigeonholed as an actress of which she has fond memories. She laughs when I ask about
color. She rejects the question on its premise. “I got such a her dating life. “You can ask, but you definitely won’t get an
head start in this industry that it is not in my best interest answer,” she responds. “There have been rumors and rumors
to look for struggle. That’s such a powerless place for me to and rumors about my love life. That’s the one area that I really
think about: what is working against me,” she says. “I don’t like to hold close to my heart.”
think of what I don’t have; I think of what I do, and use that Before she disappears from the car, she tells me that she has
to get the next thing.” She is adamant about protecting her just been in talks to star in a buddy comedy for Netflix with
creativity. “It’s a finite reservoir, so it’s important that I safe- Rihanna. She is feeling exhilarated and defiant. “I am here. I
guard it with my life.” am happy to be here,” she says, tilting her head, immersed in
Nyong’o chooses to savor her blessings and concentrate thought. “I know this industry was not made for me. But I’m
on fighting for what she wants—a perspective enabled by her not going to apologize for being here.”
43
LANDMARK
MOMENT
Making her way
through The
Metropolitan
Museum of Art,
Nyong’o steals
the scene. Céline
dress. Christopher
Kane earrings.
Atelier Swarovski
by Christopher
Kane bracelets.
Giuseppe Zanotti
sneakers. The
Museum Workout
choreographed by
Monica Bill Barnes
& Company with
Monica Bill Barnes
and Anna Bass.
46
P RODUCE D BY K A LEN A YI AUE KI AT N O RTH SIX. SPECIAL TH ANKS TO TH E METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART.
TAKING THE REINS
”She makes it look effortless,” says Black
Panther director Ryan Coogler, “but
Lupita is one of the hardest workers I’ve
ever met.” Calvin Klein 205W39NYC
dress. Faris earrings. Christian Louboutin
ankle boots. In this story: hair, Vernon
François for Vernon François; makeup,
Nick Barose for Lancôme. Set design,
Mary Howard. Details, see In This Issue.
HIGH
RESOLUTION
BRIGHTEN UP YOUR LOOK
WITH MODERN TAKES ON
TROPICAL PRINTS. ON
MODEL SOPHIE KOELLA
(FAR LEFT): MARC JACOBS
DRESS, $4,800; SELECT
MARC JACOBS STORES.
EARRINGS BY BURBERRY
AND ROXANNE ASSOULIN.
ON MODEL HÉLOÏSE GUÉRIN
(CENTER): TORY BURCH
DRESS, $898; TORYBURCH
.COM. KENNETH JAY LANE
EARRING. ON MODEL LINEISY
MONTERO (RIGHT): PRABAL
GURUNG DRESS; SAKS FIFTH
AVENUE STORES. ROXANNE
ASSOULIN EARRING.
G O O D V I B R A T I O N S
CUTTING LOOSE
LET IT FLOW—YOUR
CONSCIENCE AND
YOUR CLOTHING, THAT
IS—IN SLINKY DRESSES
BURSTING WITH COLOR
AND PRINT. ON MODEL
PALOMA ELSESSER (FAR
LEFT): MICHAEL KORS
COLLECTION DRESS,
$2,850; SELECT MICHAEL
KORS STORES. SIAN
EVANS EARRING. ON
MODEL GRACE HARTZEL
(NEAR LEFT): CHRISTOPHER
KANE DRESS, $2,595;
CHRISTOPHERKANE.COM.
BALENCIAGA EARRINGS.
FASHION EDITOR:
JORDEN BICKHAM.
STRONG SUITS
LOOSER TROUSER LEGS
ARE MAKING STRIDES FOR
SPRING—AND BRINGING
SMILES WHEREVER THEY GO. CAPHED
ON MODEL SABINA KARLSSON PLACEMENTK
(NEAR RIGHT): CÉLINE COAT Caption a dummy
AND PANTS ($600); CÉLINE,
NYC. EARRINGS BY AGMES
verot eos mets
AND GALA IS LOVE. MARTEAU hacusmus et busto
VINTAGE BROOCH (ON COAT). odio dignis stimos
SERGIO ROSSI SANDALS. blanditiis praese
ON MODEL ELLEN ROSA natium volup tatum
(FAR RIGHT): LOUIS VUITTON deleniti gatque
VEST AND BELT; SELECT dosdlores et quas
LOUIS VUITTON BOUTIQUES.
molestias excepturs
DEREK LAM PANTS, $1,490;
DEREK LAM, NYC. IPPOLITA csunt in culpa ruit
EARRING. OSCAR DE LA officia deserunt
RENTA BRACELET. DRIES mollitia animgid est
VAN NOTEN SANDALS. laborum et dorum
POWDER PLAY
HEAD-TO-TOE
NEUTRALS—IN THE
FORM OF A PANTSUIT
OR A PLISSÉ PLEATED
SKIRT—ARE NEARLY
IMPOSSIBLE TO RESIST
(AND DO WONDERS FOR
YOUR COMPLEXION). ON
FERGUSON (NEAR RIGHT):
STELLA MCCARTNEY
JACKET ($1,625) AND
PANTS ($785); STELLA
MCCARTNEY, NYC.
CÉLINE EARRINGS.
BRACELETS BY ALEXIS
BITTAR AND JENNIFER
FISHER. ON HARTZEL:
CÉLINE JACKET ($2,500)
AND SKIRT ($2,100);
CÉLINE, NYC. JENNIFER
FISHER EARRING. IN THIS
STORY: HAIR, RECINE
FOR RODIN; MAKEUP,
JEN MYLES. DETAILS,
SEE IN THIS ISSUE.
55
LOSING
PHIL
When Philip Seymour Hoffman succumbed
to a drug overdose in 2014, his death was one of
thousands sweeping the country. His partner,
Mimi O’Donnell, reflects on the di≈culties—and
devastation—of addiction. As told to Adam Green.
Photographed by Anton Corbijn.
T
he first time I met Phil, there was in-
stant chemistry between us. It was the
spring of 1999, and he was interview-
ing me to be the costume designer for
a play he was directing—his first—for
the Labyrinth Theater Company, In
Arabia We’d All Be Kings. Even though
I’d spent the five years since moving to
New York designing costumes for Off-Broadway plays and
had just been hired by Saturday Night Live, I was nervous,
because I was in awe of his talent. I’d seen him in Boogie
Nights and Happiness, and he blew me out of the water
with his willingness to make himself so vulnerable and to
play fucked-up characters with such honesty and heart.
I remember walking into the interview and anxiously
handing Phil my résumé. He studied it for a few moments,
PRODUCED BY CHARLIE BORRADAILE FOR KISS PRODUCTIONS. DETAILS, SEE IN THIS ISSUE.
58
RARE TALENT
The exceptional leading man Philip Seymour Hoffman, whose death in 2014 dealt a heartbreaking
blow to American cultural life. Photographed in 2012 by Anton Corbijn.
Village. We had three healthy kids. Phil’s career was skyrock- an addict, though at the time I didn’t fully understand that
eting. He and I were still collaborating on theater and films, addiction is always lurking just below the surface, looking
and I had started directing plays. We had wonderful friends. for a moment of weakness to come roaring back to life.
We had money. We were both so aware, since we came from Some of what Phil was going through was common
middle-class backgrounds, of how much we had. His mantra to men in their 40s, such as the pangs of finding yourself
was: We have it to give. And he did. Phil was endlessly gener- middle-aged and feeling as though you’re losing your sexual
ous with his time and energy and money, whether it involved currency (something many women experience at a much
something as serious as paying for a friend to go to rehab or younger age), or seeing your friends’ marriages fall apart in
just having coffee with an intern, meeting a writer struggling the wake of infidelities. Other things were more specific: His
with a play at midnight, or showing up for a babysitter’s non- longtime therapist died of cancer, which was devastating,
Equity showcase. He knew that it meant something because and he had a falling out with a bunch of his AA friends. Phil
of who he was. He was never comfortable with celebrity, but had a love/hate relationship with acting. The thing he hated
he knew how to use his fame so that something good could most was the loss of anonymity. He was making film after
come of it. Labyrinth, of course, got the bulk of his time, film—we had a big family and had bought a bigger apart-
but he would do a benefit reading for almost anyone who ment—and AA started to get short shrift. He’d been sober
asked. He became a fixture in our neighborhood, a familiar for so long that nobody seemed to notice. But something
figure strolling the sidewalks smoking a cigarette, walking the was brewing.
kids to school, or sitting with us eating ice cream outside our The first tangible sign came when, out of nowhere, Phil
favorite coffee shop. I couldn’t have imagined a better life. said to me, “I’ve been thinking I want to try to have a drink
Twelve-step literature describes addiction as “cunning, again. What do you think?” I thought it was a terrible
baffling, and powerful.” It is all three. I hesitate to ascribe idea, and I said so. Sobriety had been the center of Phil’s
Phil’s relapse after two decades to any one thing, or even life for over 20 years, so this was definitely a red flag. He
to a series of things, because the stressors—or, in the par- started having a drink or two without it seeming a big deal,
lance, triggers—that preceded it didn’t cause him to start but the moment drugs came into play, I confronted Phil,
using again, any more than being a child of divorce did. who admitted that he’d gotten ahold of some prescription
Lots of people go through difficult life events. Only addicts opioids. He told me that it was just this one time, and that
start taking drugs to blunt the pain of them. And Phil was it wouldn’t happen again. It scared C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 9 8
59
Fi g h t i n g
Shape
Years after being diagnosed with
a discouraging autoimmune disorder,
Gina Rodriguez comes out swinging.
Abby Aguirre tries to keep up.
Photographed by Anton Corbijn.
H
asks Gina Rodriguez. She and I
are standing in the garage behind
her beachy-modern bungalow in
Westchester, the pleasantly un-
assuming neighborhood on the
West Side of Los Angeles where
she lives with her boyfriend,
the actor Joe LoCicero. A late-
October heat wave is gripping the city, and I am wilting
along with the Halloween yard decorations on Rodriguez’s
street. The garage, snug but pristine, houses a treadmill, a
large weight-lifting rack, an area covered in padded flooring,
and—hanging ominously from the ceiling in one corner—a
massive black punching bag.
I have never thrown a punch. Rodriguez, on the other
hand, grew up around boxing. Her father, Genaro “Gino”
Rodriguez, a former boxing official—he once refereed a
fight for eight-time world champion Manny Pacquiao—
taught Gina and both of her siblings how to box as young
kids on the Northwest Side of Chicago. (The only art in
the garage is a large mixed-media graffiti collage featuring
an old black-and-white photo of her dad in the ring, dukes
up.) It has proved a useful skill in Hollywood: Later, in an
impromptu #MeToo moment, Rodriguez will share that,
seven years ago, a male director invited her over to “read
his pilot”—air quotes hers—and she rebuffed his advances
P RODUC ED BY PAT RI C K VA N MA A N E N FO R MOXI E P RODUCT I O NS
61
Second
Chance A Jet Ski
accident nearly
cost the rising
French
model Aya Jones
everything.
AYA JONES REMEMBERS NOTHING
Miraculously she Even before the crash, she wasn’t accus-
of the accident that changed her life. It survived and, tomed to sharing casual snaps from her pri-
was August 27, 2016. The Paris-born after a yearlong vate life on Instagram. Aya is très pudique,
model and her then boyfriend were enjoy- a French phrase that means at once “shy,
ing the last days of a three-week vacation recovery, modest, and reserved.” In France the trait,
in Thailand. She was piloting a Jet Ski is back on the increasingly rare in our show-and-tell-all
through crystalline waters off the coast culture, is traditionally considered a virtue.
of Ko Phangan, a tiny island ringed with catwalk. As I marvel at the graceful, self-possessed
white sand beaches and notorious for its Leslie Camhi young woman sitting across from me at
monthly Full Moon Parties, which attract lunch, who has emerged with body and
hordes of all-night revelers. reports. soul—and career—intact from a trial that
The next thing she recalls is waking from might well have shattered anyone else, it
a morphine-induced haze in a private hos- occurs to me that this reserve might be one
pital in Bangkok. Her mother, who had flown in from key to her incredible resilience. In any case, after the accident
Paris; her brother, two years older, who had cut short his her Instagram account went dark for weeks, with her 86,000
vacation in Australia to be with her; and her boyfriend, who fans wondering what had become of her.
had fished her broken body out of the Gulf of Thailand,
explained what had happened. A speedboat ferrying hotel Aya Jones, a Parisienne, grew up in the city’s Eleventh Ar-
guests to the beach had hit her Jet Ski, puncturing her lung rondissement, amid the neighborhood’s hubbub of West and
and stomach, fracturing her arm, leg, pelvis, and cranium. North African immigrant cultures. For 25 years her family
After an emergency operation on the neighboring island of has run a restaurant, A La Banane Ivoirienne, where her fa-
Ko Samui, she had been transferred by plane (flying at low ther cooks the cuisine of his homeland, the Ivory Coast. The
altitude because of her cracked skull) to Bangkok, where family still lives nearby. As teenagers, Aya and her brother
more operations would follow. She had just emerged from often helped out, serving on slow nights during the week.
two weeks in intensive care. The fact that she had survived Years of dance classes—first ballet and later jazz and hip-
at all was a miracle. hop—helped hone the young girl’s innate suppleness and
“My first thought was the unfairness of it all,” the model, refined physicality. Swimming and gymnastics strengthened
now 23, said over lunch at a macrobiotic restaurant in SoHo. her. (All of these would later play a role in her recovery.) She
A faint shadow passes over the soft beauty of her heart- was fearless, too, her floor routines in gymnastics filled with
shaped face, with its bee-stung lips and the widely spaced “perilous somersaults,” her mother, Béatrice, recalls on the
eyes that give her the look of a wild fawn. “I thought, Why phone from Paris, “that would make me catch my breath.”
did this happen to me; why was I in that place on that day? In fact, despite her angelic, doll-like beauty, “I was always
And then I had a very strong feeling of revolt,” she says. “I a bit ballsy,” Aya admits, laughing. “Later on, I loved the
wanted to fight and get over it.” thrill of risky sports—Jet Ski, zip-line, all-terrain vehicles.
A few close friends, from the fashion world and be- Well, I’m done with those now.”
yond, had sent messages for her birthday on September She’d just finished high school and was planning to study
5, unaware that Aya was then on a respirator, struggling nursing when, while she was out shopping with a friend on
to breathe. A couple of weeks later, she was able to text the Rue de Rivoli, a modeling scout spotted her. After that,
back, telling them she’d had an accident. The whirl of things moved quickly. New York–based casting director Ash-
Fashion Weeks in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, ley Brokaw put Aya in Prada’s spring 2015 show in Milan.
with their fittings, shows, and parties that had determined It was a grand debut. “People really look to Prada for new
the rhythm of her young life for several seasons, was hap- faces,” Brokaw recalls, “and everybody took notice of Aya.”
pening without her. What makes a particular set of C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 9 9
Photographed by PatrickDemarchelier
MODEL
BEHAVIOR
Jones, 23, baring
a leg scar, tells her
story of recovery.
Saint Laurent by
Anthony Vaccarello
blouse. Hair, Shon;
makeup, Diane
Kendal. Details,
see In This Issue.
Fashion Editor:
Phyllis Posnick.
A PLACE
in the
O
n a recent fall morning, Kirsty Hume looked north toward Marin County, where she briefly
Hume wakes up early and boils studied permaculture at the Regenerative Design Institute in
water for tea. Today it’s oolong, an Bolinas before settling in Topanga, with its twisted canyons,
aromatic black varietal that reminds sage-scented air, and wild succulents. The landscape has
her of her childhood, sipping hot helped her return to a mission for wellness that she began at
beverages on winter mornings when 21, when she dabbled in yoga and superfood juices. At that
the mountains on Scotland’s south- time, these were considered fringe elements of a health craze
west coast turned green from rain. more focused on private island spas, four-figure facials, and
In cool weather, she’ll also occasion- transformative personal trainers with hopeless waiting lists.
ally drink chai spiked with medicinal mushrooms—chaga Hume laughs. “As we go through life, we find ourselves on
and reishi for immunity and longevity—and a splash of certain paths that just kind of happen organically.”
freshly made almond milk. Home for her now is Topanga This mind-set has hopped a generation to thirteen-year-
Canyon, the beatnik Brigadoon that has become a refuge old Violet, a carbon copy of her mother’s limbs, lips, and
for Los Angeles’s bohemian set. Tucked into the hills above hair, who spends two days a week at her Topanga school
the Pacific Coast Highway and the flash of Malibu, this is mapping changes in the environment. It has also informed
where the 42-year-old moved with her daughter, Violet, two Hume’s recent dedication to studying the medicinal prop-
and half years ago. Once Hume finishes her elixir, she’ll often erties of plants through a program at her local outpost
set out on a hiking trail in the State Park a few paces from of Vermont’s Gaia School of Healing. And then there’s
her front door. “It wakes up my senses and brings everything her passion for making bespoke salves and digestive bit-
back into equilibrium,” she says. “I feel more alive.” ters designed to calm the nerves and realign the body’s
On Michael Kors’s spring runway, Hume looked particu- systems, a preoccupation that often fills her days. Fol-
larly vital in a blue tie-dyed bias-cut slip dress and flip-flops, lowing her graduation in June, Hume’s morning routine
her signature corn-silk waves rustling just past her waist. The now includes a full-body application of Essence of the
designer’s archetype of sun-kissed Earth Mother with beach Sun, a custom blend of calendula-, ginger-, and citrine-
adjacency is Hume in her element. There was that other life, infused oils. There is also an Essence of the Moon blend—a
though, in Manhattan’s high-glam nineties, when she logged tension-easing mix of linden-, jasmine-, and violet-leaf
time as a Victoria’s Secret angel, a Versace bombshell, and infusions—that Hume uses in the evenings to wind down.
a face of Chanel cosmetics. Hume moved to Woodstock in The apothecary-style bottles have already found a following
upstate New York after five years on the nonstop fashion on social media. A recent Instagram post garnered dozens
circuit, which helped her arrive at an inalienable self-truth: of comments from followers requesting samples, including
“I am not an urban creature.” Even the open-air ocean-side one from Amber Valletta: “I want some!” wrote Hume’s
sprawl of L.A., where she relocated in 2001 with her former fellow supe, with a few heart emojis for good measure.
husband, the actor Donovan Leitch, did not do it for her. —MACKENZIE WAGONER
EMBRACEABLE YOU
Hume and her daughter, Violet, hold tight to spare beauty rituals—and breezy floral dresses. Violet (NEAR RIGHT)
wears a Sportmax dress, $1,265; Sportmax, NYC. Hume (FAR RIGHT) wears a Miu Miu dress, $2,875; select Miu Miu boutiques.
Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.
AROUND
WE GO
Easy, ethereal
micro-florals are
perfect for a sunset
spin. On Hume:
Philosophy di
Lorenzo Serafini
dress, $2,295;
Barneys New York,
NYC. On Violet:
Chloé dress; Chloé
boutiques. Michael
Kors Collection top,
$595; select Michael
Kors stores. In this
story: hair, Jimmy
Paul for Bumble and
Bumble; makeup,
Dick Page. Details,
see In This Issue.
“As we go
through life,
we find
ourselves on
certain paths
that just kind
of happen
organically,”
says Hume
S ET D ESIGN, SPENCER VROOMAN; PRODUCED BY WES OLSON FO R CONNECT TH E DOTS
67
PUNCH Enough with
the yoga and
mindful
breathing. In these volatile
times, more and more
women are finding a sense
of calm in self-defense
THE ONLY WAY I EXERCISE REGULARLY workouts. Catherine Lacey
is by lying to myself. These are not small joins the fight club.
lies; they’re not motivating affirmations
or vacant mantras—no. They’re brief Photographed by Anton Corbijn.
DRUNK
but intense fantasies that I am an en-
tirely different person. I took samba
classes for a year, masquerading as a
lighthearted woman who could dance
without self-consciousness. To coerce
myself into hotel workouts, I pretend
I’m under house arrest, wrongfully ac-
cused and vengeful as I do push-ups Combat-based exercise aligns per-
on my fists. fectly with the fitness industry’s focus
The most satisfying of these delu- in recent years on strength building
sions is the one in which I am a pro- rather than weight loss. Gisele Bünd-
fessional fighter, training as if my life chen trains with mixed-martial-arts
depends on it. This began in late 2015. fighter Tateki Matsuda; Olivia Munn
With the looming election already (who once flatly told Vogue, “I hate
stressing me out, I walked into a small yoga”) now posts Instagram videos of
gym where punching bags swayed in her Tae Kwon Do drills. When Gigi
the sweat-heavy air. As the instructor Hadid was grabbed by a stranger after
began shouting commands—right a runway show in Milan, the model
hook, left jab, left hook, right jab—I summoned her self-defense skills to
paused for a moment, holding my fists throw an elbow to his face. Demi Lo-
at attention, before I went ballistic on vato recently got her blue belt in Bra-
that bag. I caught the instructor giving zilian jujitsu. “This is not boxercise,”
me a mystified look, but it didn’t mat- Lovato’s trainer, Jay Glazer, tells me.
ter whether he was impressed or just “We’re teaching violence.”
amused. I was a prizefighter, a nasty Though MMA has long been male-
woman, a Million Dollar Baby. I left dominated in its athletes and audience,
the gym drenched, sore, and ebullient. the gender disparity has rapidly shrunk
That was back when I thought the since the Ultimate Fighting Champi-
American political climate couldn’t onship, the largest international or-
become more hostile, when we didn’t ganization for the sport, introduced a
know the Hillary-Bernie debate was female division in 2013. If being (or at
a string quartet on a sinking ship. We least feeling) dangerous is the new fit-
now live in a prevailing state of anxi- ness aspiration, then our current role
ety; according to a report that the As- models can be found in those rapidly
sociation for University and College expanding ranks. “Fighting helped me
Counseling Center Directors published learn that I can’t let my emotions take
in March, this is the seventh year in a over,” Rose Namajunas, the UFC’s
row that the disorder has surpassed new strawweight champion, tells me.
depression as the main reason college All martial arts, but in particular ju-
students seek therapy. This past fall, jitsu, Namajunas advises, “teach you
too, we bore witness to a deluge of how to get comfortable in uncomfort-
women’s shocking tales of sexual ha- able situations.” She showed the world
rassment and assault. With so many of how comfortable she has become
us feeling destabilized, is it any wonder this past November, when she ended
that boxing gyms and dojos across the Joanna Jedrzejczyk’s years-long win-
nation are seeing a significant swell in ning streak with a swift and shocking
attendance, especially among women? knockout. C O N T I N U E D O N PAG E 1 0 0
68
P RODUC ED BY PAT RI C K VA N MA A N E N FO R MOXI E P RODUCT I O NS.
S ET D ES IG N , BE T TE A DA MS FO R M A RY H OWA RD STU D I O.
ALIVE AND
KICKING
In a Heroine Sport
sports bra and
Reebok shorts,
strength-and-
conditioning coach
Courtney Roselle
strikes out. Hair,
Thom Priano for
R+Co; makeup,
Stéphane Marais.
Details, see In
This Issue.
Sittings Editor:
Phyllis Posnick.
Pet
The
Set As
emotional-
support status
for dogs
and cats gains
traction,
seemingly
every airplane,
fashion show,
and nail salon is
suddenly
an animal house.
Chloe Malle
investigates the
hype—and the
healing
potential.
Photographed by
Steven Klein
T
Phyllis. Anytime she veers from
her typical ten-block radius along
the eastern perimeter of Central
Park, her bug eyes become even
larger than usual, and any friend-
ly stranger who leans down to say
hello is met with a disdainful re-
coil. To successfully argue that
the eleven-year-old cavachon is a nurturing crutch would
demand herculean creativity, not to mention chutzpah. This
is the assumption, however, when Phyllis and I enter the
Parker Meridien, where three of the hotel’s basement-level
beauty retailers—Tenoverten nail salon, the blowout main-
stay Drybar, and Blushington makeup studio—welcome us
without question. Phyllis is my mother’s dog, so today I am
multitasking pet-sitting duties with a long-standing manicure
appointment, and both of us are pleasantly surprised when
not an eyebrow is raised at the sound of Phyllis’s own nails
clacking across the tile. My manicurist, Gladys, even offers
her a peticure, but the dog demurs with a nervous lip quiver.
Tenoverten is just one of the many human beauty estab-
lishments likely to accept four-legged friends as guests (when
in doubt, call ahead). And these are not just croissant-size
purse inhabitants; one regular at the chain’s midtown loca-
tion always brings her 65-pound greyhound, the dog’s sleek
head eye-level with the Christian Louboutin lacquers on the
manicure tables.
Whereas Toto’s accompanying Dorothy all the way to
Oz may have seemed like a curious anomaly, now it would
be strange if Judy Garland had traveled without the cairn
terrier, thanks to the glut of easily obtainable Emotional
Support Animal letters; after spending mere minutes filling
out a questionnaire on certapet.com, I was informed that I
am an excellent candidate for an emotional-support animal
and that I could get a therapist’s evaluation and, if deemed
fit, a confirmation delivered in 48 hours for $150. From
Cara Delevingne’s husky mix Leo, a regular at Claridge’s in
London and front row at Chanel couture, to Hector, Thom
Browne’s wirehaired dachshund (who prompted the line to
stock dogwear), pets have become a tolerated extension of
their owners, accompanying them everywhere they go. It was
only a matter of time before spas and resorts followed suit.
These latest animal-friendly bastions go out of their way
to offer cosseted companions an experience as luxurious as
the ones enjoyed by their human escorts. At Las Ventanas
al Paraíso in Cabo San Lucas, pets receive their own cabana
and can choose from the “Canine Delights” menu presented
to them by the “dog butler” on hand for walks and mas-
sages. The Inn by the Sea in Cape Elizabeth, Maine, has an
equally diverse room-service menu, including homemade
Meat Roaff and their signature dish, K-9 ice cream, a soy
milk–based honey-and-vanilla confection topped with dog-
bone crumble. Spa options are just as robust; Pennsylvania’s
Nemacolin Wooflands Pet Resort & Spa offers blueberry
facials, hot-oil treatments for dull coats, and mud baths to
soothe parched skin. (À la carte nail grinding and tooth
brushing are also on offer.) In an age when wellness is the new
luxury, it is perhaps unsurprising that the time, energy, and
money people are spending on their own well-being should
extend to their families, which C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 0 1
74
ST RI D FE LDT FO R LO LA P RO DUCT I O N . A N I M A LS P ROV I DE D
BY K I RST IN MC MI LLA N . D O G GROO ME R, ERA NA FE RRO NE .
S ET D ES IG N , A ND R EA STA N L EY. P RO DUCE D BY CA ROL I NE
GROOM SERVICE
With animal interactions
said to increase levels of
the so-called love hormone
oxytocin, a well-coiffed poodle
can be both emotional salve
and sartorial twin. Van Seenus
wears a Saint Laurent by
Anthony Vaccarello dress
and sandals; Saint Laurent,
NYC. Chloé necklace. In this
story, hair: Garren of Garren
New York for R+Co; makeup:
Yadim. Photographed at
110 North Mapleton Drive.
Details, see In This Issue.
GET A GRIP
THIS PAGE (CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT):
AcroArmy’s Dave Olivier,
Nicole Cenia, Oliver
Donaldson, and Andrew
Phillips, all in Outdoor
Voices. Nike training
shoes. OPPOSITE:
Outdoor Voices founder
Tyler Haney in Outdoor
Voices leggings.
Fashion Editor:
Alex Harrington.
L E T ’ S G E T
P H Y S I C A L
THOUGH OUTDOOR VOICES IS TAKING OVER
THE FITNESS-APPAREL WORLD,THEY’RE NOT ABOUT
WINNING. THEY’RE ABOUT PLAYING THE GAME.
BY ROBERT SULLIVAN. PHOTOGRAPHED BY SEAN THOMAS.
IT’S
hard to keep
up with Tyler
Haney on her
morning walk
in Austin, Texas,
with her dog,
Bowie, a con-
fident Havapoo who, like Haney, is
happy to be out on the Ann and Roy
Butler Hike-and-Bike Trail. The beau-
tiful green space along the Colorado
River is filled with people of all ages
and levels of athletic expertise. “That’s
what’s so beautiful about this walk,”
Haney says. “It’s democratic.” Haney
is doubly excited when she spots one
woman after another wearing her
clothing: the apparel made by Outdoor
Voices, the local clothing company that
Haney founded and runs. “Look!” she
says. “She’s wearing OV!”
Though this particular Austinite
is wearing ash-colored OV leggings,
what’s most exciting to Haney (who
herself is wearing an OV top and an OV
stretch-crepe track short) is what the
woman is not doing: Rather than seem-
ingly setting out to break the Texas state
record for the mile, this 30-something
woman is simply, to use a favorite
phrase at OV, doing things, getting out,
78
DON’T LET
ME DOWN
Outdoor Voices
pieces are built for
functional movement.
OPPOSITE: Haney in
a Givenchy dress.
Céline earrings. In
this story: hair, Tamas
Tuzes; makeup,
Jen Myles. Details,
see In This Issue.
P RODUC ED BY A N ASTAS I A B LA DES FOR 3 6 0P M
M I L K I N G I T
Would that be camel or flax with your coffee?
A health-minded Tamar Adler investigates the wide, wild world of alternamilks.
Photographed by Grant Cornett.
I
t appears as though a lunatic toddler is blancmange. The Chinese have been drinking soy milk since
planning a bender in my kitchen. My at least 82 a.d.
eight-foot-long cherrywood island is a What is new is the sheer number and variety of substitutes.
fracas of milk—containers and cartons Which leaves one wondering—what qualifies as “milk”? It is
and glass jugs and tins of powder illus- a question hotly debated in the halls of Congress. The dairy
trated with mammals that aren’t cows. industry has lobbied for its description— “lacteal secretion
Behind them is a jumble of brightly . . . obtained by the complete milking of one or more hoofed
printed Tetra Paks filled with extrusions mammals”—but they’re up against history and etymology.
of grains and nuts and tubers and seeds. Milch, in Middle High German, was simply affixed to ani-
A single container of cow’s milk mals that produced it, not all of them hoofed—as in “milch
stands, somewhat awkwardly, alone. camels” from Genesis 32:15. And my 1913 Webster’s Un-
Why? Because cow’s-milk consump- abridged provides “1. A white fluid secreted by the mammary
tion in this country has plummeted—7 glands of female mammals. . . . 2. A kind of juice or sap, usu-
percent in 2015, an 11 percent further ally white in color, found in certain plants. . . . 3. An emulsion
drop expected by 2020—and I’m about made by bruising seeds; as, the milk of almonds. . . . 4. The
to taste my way through the wild and woolly world of alter- ripe, undischarged spat of an oyster.” David Katz, M.D.,
natives. Almond milk may be the lait du moment, having seen founding director of the Yale-Griffin Prevention Research
sales in this country rise 250 percent from 2012 to 2015. But I Center, whom I contact for help, more or less shrugs. “Milk
have assembled soy, rice, cashew, coconut, macadamia, and is named for the role it plays in diets,” he says, “just as burgers
pea. I have convened camel, sheep, horse, and goat. I could are called burgers, whatever they are made from.”
have gathered many more—a cause for some celebration. Earth is home to more than 5,000 species that produce
Cow’s milk is appallingly resource-intensive to produce, milk—too many to try, so I must begin winnowing. Hooded-
and its reputation as a nutritional mainstay has eroded to seal milk, I learn, is over 60 percent fat—akin to clotted
near-shibboleth status. Controversial reports have linked it cream. Whale milk is about half as rich. Reindeer milk, 23
to autism and multiple sclerosis. Noncontroversial ones have percent. Buffalo, from which the best mozzarella comes, is
drawn connections to aggravating other autoimmunities. In over 10 percent. These all sound delicious, but milking seals
the quantities we have long been advised to consume it, cow’s and whales is an organizational nightmare. Plus, none of
milk can create unwanted bacterial inflammation in our gut these milks has been shown to have any special health or
flora. And tests in T. Colin Campbell’s China Study showed environmental benefits, so why bother?
that caseins, which make up the largest group of protein in Donkey’s milk, on the other hand, has a great following
milk, turned on cancer-gene expression on rats. Turned it on? in European circles, particularly in the allergic community.
Like a light switch, it seems. Pope Francis was apparently raised on it. Pierluigi Orunesu,
I myself am among the lactose intolerant—a group whose founder of a Swiss-based company named Eurolactis—the
symptoms were recorded long ago by Hippocrates, Galen name sounds like a nemesis from a James Bond film—tells
of Pergamon, and in the early 1900s by a Swedish doctor me that donkey’s milk is near-identical to human milk and
named Wernstedt, who suggested our condition be named hypoallergenic. Plus it was the secret of ancient beauties—
“idiosyncrasy.” I share my idiosyncrasy with 65 to 70 percent including Cleopatra, Poppaea Sabina, and Napoleon’s sister
of adults worldwide. Meanwhile, my sixteen-month-old Pauline, who all bathed in it.
suffers from a cow’s-milk allergy—probably to its proteins, It allegedly fights psoriasis and eczema. Lait de jument—
though it’s impossible to discern—and for the year I nursed mare’s milk—comes with similar claims. I order some, in
him, a soupçon of cow, goat, or sheep dairy in my diet trig- powder form, from a French company under the expres-
gered days of tortured squalling. sive portmanteau Chevalait. I learn from the evangelical
Alternatives to cow’s milk aren’t new. Almond milk in CEO of the Camel Milk Cooperative that milch camels
particular dates back to the thirteenth century but is probably produce a universal elixir, one that has been shown to help
more ancient. It is the main ingredient of that shape-shifting prevent diabetes, ameliorate symptoms of autism, and can
Arab dish of almonds, rosewater, and capon that became be digested without trouble by C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 0 2
WAKE-UP CALL
FROM FAR LEFT: Model
Hannah Ferguson wears
a No. 21 chiffon dress
($1,150) and sequined
slip dress ($1,723);
numeroventuno.com.
Dries Van Noten earring.
Model Birgit Kos wears
a Prada top ($2,980), pants
($2,620) and necklace;
select Prada boutiques.
Model Yasmin Wijnaldum
wears a Coach 1941 slip
dress, $1,200; select
Coach stores. On all: Prada
shoes. Hair, Odile Gilbert;
makeup, Stéphane Marais.
Details, see In This Issue.
Photographed by
Patrick Demarchelier.
Fashion Editor:
Tonne Goodman.
S T R I K E A
AHEAD OF
THE CURVE
BIKE SHORTS ARE
POISED FOR A
COMEBACK—AND
WE’RE HEAD OVER
HEELS ABOUT IT.
MODEL IANA GODNIA
WEARS A FENTY
PUMA BY RIHANNA
BIKINI TOP ($75)
AND SHORTS ($180);
PUMA.COM. OFF-
WHITE C/O JIMMY
CHOO SANDALS.
FASHION EDITOR:
JORDEN BICKHAM.
S P R I N G I S L O O K I N G L I G H T E R, S T R E T C H I E R , A N D M O R E N O - F U S S T H A N E V E R .
G I G I H A D I D, I M A A N H A M M A M, K A R L I E K L O S S, A N D F R I E N D S M OV E A N D G R O OV E
I N T H E S E A S O N ’S B E S T. P H O T O G R A P H E D BY PAT R I C K D E M A R C H E L I E R .
DANCING
ON AIR
SOARING NEW
SILHOUETTES WILL
HAVE YOU JUMPING
FOR JOY. MODEL GIGI
HADID WEARS A MARINE
SERRE DRESS, $1,330;
MARINESERRE.COM.
P.E NATION LEGGINGS,
$130; NORDSTROM
.COM. EARRINGS BY
CÉLINE AND ATELIER
SWAROVSKI BY
CHRISTOPHER KANE.
BRACELETS BY RJ
GRAZIANO, ATELIER
SWAROVSKI BY
CHRISTOPHER KANE,
DINOSAUR DESIGNS,
CARA CRONINGER, AND
ALEXIS BITTAR. TORY
SPORT SANDALS.
HOLD
THE LINES
LOUIS VUITTON’S
ELECTRIC
SPORTSWEAR-
INSPIRED PIECES
DELIVER FORM AND
FUNCTION. MODEL
IMAAN HAMMAM
WEARS A LOUIS
VUITTON TOP AND
SHORTS; SELECT
LOUIS VUITTON
BOUTIQUES. ATELIER
SWAROVSKI BY
CHRISTOPHER
KANE EARRING (ON
RIGHT). BRACELETS
BY DINOSAUR
DESIGNS AND RJ
GRAZIANO. AREA X
TEVA SANDALS.
“MY
FAVORITE
YOGA POSE?
SAVASANA,
BECAUSE
IT’S USUALLY
THE LAST
ONE”
—IMAAN HAMMAM
FLEX “WHEN I’M
BENEFITS
IT’S EASY TO FIND
YOUR FLOW IN
WORKING, I’M ON
MY FEET ALL
A SECOND-SKIN
SWIMSUIT. EVEN
BETTER: GROUNDING
THE LOOK WHILE
HELPING YOUR
PARTNER FIND HER
BALANCE POINT.
DAY— SO I TRY TO
GODNIA (NEAR
RIGHT) WEARS A
DUSKII SWIMSUIT,
FOCUS ON MY
$220; DUSKII.COM.
MODEL HANNAH
FERGUSON (FAR RIGHT)
POSTURE TO
RELIEVE STRESS”
WEARS AN ALBERTA
FERRETTI SWIM TOP
($395) AND SHORTS
($590); BARNEYS
NEW YORK, NYC. —IANA GODNIA
“EXPLORE
WHAT YOUR
BODY CAN DO—
NEVER LOOK
AT EXERCISE AS
PUNISHMENT ”
—MIA KANG
STRONGER
TOGETHER
GET A LEG UP WITH A
LITTLE HELP FROM YOUR
FRIEND—AND SHORT
SHORTS AS PERFECTLY
SUITED FOR STARING
AT AS THEY ARE FOR
MOVING IN. MODEL MARIA
BORGES (NEAR RIGHT)
WEARS A RALPH LAUREN
COLLECTION TOP ($990)
AND SHORTS ($990);
SELECT RALPH LAUREN
STORES. PETER PILOTTO
EARRING. MODEL MIA
KANG (FAR RIGHT) WEARS
A MARC JACOBS TOP,
$495; SELECT MARC
JACOBS STORES. NIKE
SHORTS, $35; NIKE
.COM. CÉLINE EARRING.
TORY SPORT SANDALS.
“WHENEVER
I TRAVEL,
I ENJOY
GOING ON
LONG, SCENIC
RUNS TO
FAMILIARIZE
PLAYING
THE ANGLES
HOP TO THE GYM—
MYSELF WITH
WHEREVER
OR JUST HIT YOUR
STRIDE—IN LONG AND
LEAN STRIPES. MODEL
MOV EM EN T D I RECTI O N BY PAT BO GUS LAWS KI
I AM IN
KARLIE KLOSS WEARS
AN ADIDAS BY STELLA
MCCARTNEY JACKET
($180), TOP ($80), AND
LEGGINGS ($100);
ADIDAS.COM. ANDRES
GALLARDO EARRING.
THE WORLD”
OFF-WHITE C/O JIMMY — K AR LI E KLO S S
CHOO SANDALS. IN THIS
STORY: HAIR, JAMES
PECIS FOR ORIBE HAIR
CARE; MAKEUP, SALLY
BRANKA. DETAILS,
SEE IN THIS ISSUE.
Index
1
15
West
T YSO N. A LL OT HE RS: COU RT ESY O F B RA N DS/W E BSI T ES.
CRA IG MC D E A N , VOGUE , 2016. 2, 1 1 , 1 2 , A N D 13 : ST UA RT
Dressed
Hit the road to the wild Southwest
with all things romantic,
14
nomadic—and gorgeously mystic.
13
96 VOGUE JANUARY 2018
6
9
10
12
11
1. IRENE NEUWIRTH NECKLACE; IRENE NEUWIRTH, WEST PARFUM, $200; REGIMEDESFLEURS.COM. 10. YVES SALOMON SKIRT,
HOLLYWOOD. 2. TORY BURCH DRESS, $598; TORYBURCH.COM. $1,480; YVES-SALOMON.COM. 11. ALEXANDRE BIRMAN SANDAL, $680;
3. PAMELA LOVE RING, $625; PAMELALOVE.COM. 4. DIOR HAT, BERGDORFGOODMAN.COM. 12. FLORAL ARRANGEMENT BY MISSI
$1,100; SELECT DIOR BOUTIQUES. 5. ISABEL MARANT BLOUSE, $830; FLOWERS, $375; MISSIFLOWERS.COM. CARMEL BY THE SEA VASE, $95;
MATCHESFASHION.COM. 6. TOD’S BAG; TODS.COM. 7. JACQUIE AICHE NEIMANMARCUS.COM. 13. CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC BOOT; CALVIN
CUFF; JACQUIEAICHE.COM. 8. LONGCHAMP JACKET, $1,545; SELECT KLEIN, NYC. 14. WILD MEDICINE TITANIUM QUARTZ/TEA TREE SOAP,
LONGCHAMP BOUTIQUES. 9. RÉGIME DES FLEURS CACTI EAU DE $22; WILDMEDICINE.US. 15. KREWE SUNGLASSES, $235; KREWE.COM.
LOSING PHIL should move into an apartment around peace or relief, just ferocious pain and
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 59 the corner. It helped us maintain a little overwhelming loss. The most difficult—
him enough that, for a while, he kept his distance but allowed us all to be together as the impossible—thing was thinking, How
word. much as possible—he still walked the kids do I tell my kids that their dad just died?
Phil went into rehearsal for Mike Nich- to school, and we still had family dinners. What are the words?
ols’s production of Death of a Salesman, In the fall, Phil finally said, “I can’t do A loving swarm of friends and family
and he threw himself into it with his usual this anymore,” and he went back to rehab. carried me through those early days, but
intensity. Willy Loman is one of the great We decided I would bring the kids, then even so they felt miles away. They can’t be
tragic roles of twentieth-century theater, five, seven, and ten, to see him for a family there with you. There were a few people I
and Phil gave one of the rawest and most visit. We sat in a common room, and they knew who had gone through something
honest performances of his career. It asked asked him questions, which he answered similar. We would get together, and I
a lot of him and it exhausted him, but it with his usual honesty. He never came out wanted to say, Please don’t go, because
had nothing to do with his relapse. If any- and said, “I’m shooting up heroin,” but he you get it. From others, I received a lot
thing, doing seven shows a week kept him told them enough so that they could get of well-meaning advice, such as “Just get
from using, because it would have been it, and they were just so happy to see him. out more” or—I kid you not—“Craft.”
impossible to do that on drugs. Though It was hard when we left, because they all Literally two weeks after Phil died, some
he continued to drink after evening shows, wanted to know why he couldn’t come fellow parents asked me to show up on
he was otherwise clean, and as the days left home with us. But it felt healthy for us to a Friday morning to man the stall where
in the show’s limited run wound down, I deal with it together, as a family. they sold school paraphernalia. And after
began to dread what would happen when When Phil came back in November, the fifth person suggested I should start
it was over. he wanted so badly to stay sober, and for running, I lost it. “I don’t want to fucking
After the show closed, Phil didn’t have the next three months he did. But it was run,” I said. “I want to jump in the river
any work lined up for a while, so he had a a struggle, heartbreaking to watch. For and kill myself.”
lot of time on his own, and he very quickly the first time I realized that his addiction When I finally did decide to run, it was
started using again. It was all prescription was bigger than either of us. I bowed my always at night by the Hudson. The darker
stuff, though I don’t know where he was head and thought, I can’t fix this. It was and rainier it was, the more violent the
getting it. Again, I realized instantly, or at the moment that I let go. I told him, “I water, the better. I couldn’t get enough.
least I suspected. can’t monitor you all the time. I love you, Something about the extremity of it, the
“Are you taking pills?” I’m here for you, and I’ll always be here for closeness to death, was weirdly comfort-
“No, I don’t do that.” you. But I can’t save you.” ing. If I wanted to jump, it was there.
“Well, you’re dozing off.” I guess that was also the moment I What got me out of bed every morn-
“I’m tired. I’m not sleeping well.” made the decision I had deferred while ing and kept me alive, of course, were my
As soon as Phil started using heroin looking up at Freedom Tower back when kids. I had no choice: They needed me,
again, I sensed it, terrified. I told him, Phil had first started using. It’s difficult to and I loved them more than anything in
“You’re going to die. That’s what happens stay in a relationship with an active ad- the world. I would hit moments when I
with heroin.” Every day was filled with dict. It feels like being boiled in oil. But I felt, I’m done. I’m so done, but then I’d see
worry. Every night, when he went out, I couldn’t abandon him. I just had to figure their faces, and right away it would be-
wondered: Will I see him again? out: How do I live with him? And how do come, OK. I can do this today. They were
I was getting all kinds of advice—every- I do it without caregiving or enabling, and keenly aware that I was now their only
body was fumbling in the dark. Some peo- in a way that protects the kids and me? parent, and Willa, my youngest, obsessed
ple told me to get the kids away from him. Some time in January, Phil started iso- about it, asking, “If you die, how are
The urban historian Lewis Mumford once lating himself. He was in Atlanta filming people going to know how to find us?”
said, “In the city, time becomes visible.” The Hunger Games. I called and texted It was almost a year before I could go
When Phil started using, Freedom Tower him and said, “I’m here to talk.” At that out at night without the kids’ going into
was almost finished—a new building in point, we had started to shift things over a panic. When I forced myself to make a
the footprint of the World Trade Center. to me financially, because Phil knew that few tentative forays into the world, within
I remember walking along the Hudson when he was using he wasn’t responsible. an hour there would be a phone call and
looking at it, and realizing that our whole We began making plans to set up another I’d be on my way back home.
relationship spanned the fall of the twin rehab as soon as the movie wrapped, but I Even as I started getting out more, I
towers on 9/11 to the rise of the new tower knew we had a difficult path ahead of us. couldn’t bring myself to go to the theater.
in its place. I thought, I’ll make a decision It happened so quickly. Phil came home Phil had been my favorite person to go
once the building is finished. I felt like I from Atlanta, and I called a few people with. He was so enthusiastic and open and
was drowning, and it gave me something and said that we needed to keep an eye generous—he was floored by actors all the
to hold on to. on him. Then he started using again, and time—and at the end of any play, I would
Phil tried to stop on his own, but detox- three days later he was dead. look over and he’d be crying. So, for a long
ing caused him agonizing physical pain, The circumstances of Phil’s death were time, theater was out of the question. I
so I took him to rehab. In some of the so public—people around the world knew knew that, whoever was sitting in it, the
conversations that we had while he was he was dead an hour after I did—and ev- seat next to mine would feel empty.
there, Phil was so open and vulnerable ery detail, from the days leading up to his It’s been almost four years since Phil
that they remain among the most intimate overdose to his funeral, were, and remain, died, and the kids and I are still in a place
moments of our time together. Within a all over the Internet. And so I need to keep where that fact is there every day. We talk
day or two of returning, he started using the rest of that awful time private. I had about him constantly, only now we can
again. At home, he was behaving differ- been expecting him to die since the day talk about him without instantly crying.
ently, and it was making the kids anxious. he started using again, but when it finally That’s the small difference, the little bit
We both felt that some boundaries would happened it hit me with brutal force. I of progress that we’ve made. We can talk
be helpful, and tearfully decided that Phil wasn’t prepared. There was no sense of about him in a way that feels as though
In This Issue
NYC. Earring, $345 for NYC. On Wen: Burberry $750; select Nordstrom
pair; farisfaris.com. Ankle September Collection stores. Sandals, $640;
boots, $1,395; Christian sandals, $795; us.burberry Barneys New York, NYC.
Louboutin, NYC. In this .com. 52: On Gale: Belt, 55: On Ferguson: Earrings,
story: Manicure, Deborah $395. Earrings, $1,195; $670; Céline, NYC. Alexis
Table of contents 10: Céline Schira for Christy Lippmann. Tailor, Leah Saint Laurent, NYC. Sandals, Bittar bangles, $195–$245;
On Hume: T-shirt, blouse, Rilling Studio. Up front 22: Huntsinger. $650; alexanderwang alexisbittar.com. Jennifer
and shorts, priced upon Dress, price upon request; .com. On Graham: Dress, Fisher cuffs, $795–$995;
request; select Louis (800) 845-6790. Earring GOOD VIBRATIONS price upon request. jenniferfisherjewelry
Vuitton boutiques. On (on left), $495 for pair; 48: On Koella: Burberry Earrings, $1,550; beladora .com. On Hartzel:
Violet: Shirt ($1,770) and balenciaga.com. Earring September Collection .com. Sandals, $595; Earring, $585 for pair;
shorts ($1,030); select (on right), $1,800 for pair; earring (on left), $995 for alexanderwang.com. On jenniferfisherjewelry.com.
Prada boutiques. Manicure, beladora.com. pair; us.burberry.com. Dilone: Top ($12,690) In this story: Manicure, Kylie
Betina Goldstein. Tailor, V life 28: Manicure, Yukie Roxanne Assoulin earring and boots ($1,390). Kwok for Essie. Tailor, Céline
Susie Kourinian. Cover Miyakawa. 34: Dress, (on right), $120 for pair; Boots at Just One Eye, Los Schira for Christy Rilling
look 10: Jumpsuit and $2,990; matchesfashion roxanneassoulin.com. On Angeles. Earring, $145; Studio.
skirt, priced upon request; .com. Robert Lee Morris Guérin: Earring, $75 for pair; rjgraziano.com. 53: On
select Dior boutiques. cuffs, $75–$250; kennethjaylane Skriver: Earring, price upon LOSING PHIL
18K rose gold–and–white robertleemorris.com. .com. On Montero: Dress, request; similar styles at 56–57: Bottega
topaz earring, $3,800 Khalama Design bangle, $6,995. Earring, $120 closerbywwake.com. On Veneta coat, $5,400;
for pair; pomellato.com. $110; khalama.com. for pair; roxanneassoulin Sampaio: Earring, price (800) 845-6790.
Platinum-and-diamond .com. 49: On Elsesser: upon request for pair; Commando bodysuit,
rings, $4,720–$31,990; MOVE IT Earring (on right), $585 for altuzarra.com. 54: On $74; wearcommando
tacori.com. Manicure, 40–41: Jumpsuit, price pair; sejewellery.com. On Karlsson: Coat, $6,800. .com. L’agence pants,
Deborah Lippmann. Tailor, upon request; select Dolce Hartzel: Earrings, $495; Agmes earring (on left), $225; lagencefashion.com.
Leah Huntsinger. Editor’s & Gabbana boutiques. 44– Balenciaga, NYC. 50: $590 for pair; agmesnyc Manolo Blahnik shoes,
letter 20: On Graham: 45: Dress, $6,800; Céline, On Moore: Walt Cassidy .com. Gala Is Love earring $745; neimanmarcus.com.
Dress, price upon request; NYC. Earring, price upon Studio earring (on right), (on right), $190 for pair;
Balmain, NYC. Beladora request for pair; similar $225 for pair; waltcassidy The Most Beautiful Thing FIGHTING SHAPE
earrings, $1,550; beladora styles at christopherkane .com. Faris earring (on left), in the World, Cincinnati. 60–61: Jacket, $1,695;
.com. On Dilone: Paco .com. Bracelets, $899 $225 for pair; farisfaris. Brooch, $225; marteau.co. alexanderwang.com. Dress
Rabanne top and shorts each; atelierswarovski com. On Montero: earrings, Sandals, $650; sergiorossi ($1,250) and top ($250);
($12,690); Barneys New .com. Sneakers, $1,295; price upon request; select .com. On Rosa: Vest and similar styles at coach.com.
York, NYC. RJ Graziano select Giuseppe Zanotti Hermès boutiques. 51: belt, priced upon request. Boots, $1,240; casadei
earrings, $75–$145; boutiques. 46–47: Dress, On Fraser: Shoes, $1,650; Earring, $325 for pair; .com. In this story: Tailor,
rjgraziano.com. Tailor, $6,900; Calvin Klein, similar styles at Balenciaga, ippolita.com. Bracelet, Cha Cha Zuctic.
SECOND CHANCE ($3,695), briefs ($3,695), .com. Tailor, Haley at Jimmy Choo boutiques. pair; matchesfashion
63: Blouse, $2,890; Saint and heels ($1,295). Pet Stitched. 77: Givenchy 91: Céline earring (on right), .com. On Kang: Earring,
Laurent, NYC. collar ($520–$565) and dress, $4,120; Givenchy, $500 for pair; Céline, NYC. $500 for pair; Céline, NYC.
leash ($495); Goyard NYC. Top ($70) and RJ Graziano bracelet, $95; Sandals, $248; torysport
A PLACE IN boutiques. 74–75: Leather leggings ($85); rjgraziano.com. Atelier .com. 95: Earring, $208 for
THE SUN dress with ostrich-feather outdoorvoices.com. 78: Swarovski by Christopher pair; andresgallardo
66–67: On Violet: Dress, sleeves (price upon request) Dress, $4,120; Givenchy, Kane bangles, $899 .com. Sandals, $995; select
$6,295. In this story: and sandals ($1,395). NYC. Earrings, $530; Céline, each; atelierswarovski Jimmy Choo stores.
Manicure, Betina Goldstein. Necklace, $410; Chloé NYC. 79: On Donaldson: .com. Dinosaur In this story: Manicure,
Tailor, Susie Kourinian. boutiques. In this story: shorts ($65); and leggings Designs bangle, $105; Yuko Tsuchihashi. Tailor,
Manicure, Denise Bourne ($85); outdoorvoices.com. dinosaurdesigns.com. Céline Schira for Christy
THAN THE AUTHORIZED STORE, THE BUYER TAKES A RISK AND SHOULD USE CAUTION WHEN DOING SO.
PUNCH DRUNK for Chanel. In this story: Manicure, Yukie Cara Croninger bangle, Rilling Studio.
ME N TI O N ED I N I TS PAG ES, W E CA NN OT GUA RA N TE E T HE AU TH EN T IC I T Y O F ME RC HA N D I S E SOLD
Saks Fifth Avenue stores. LET’S GET PHYSICAL Alexis Bittar bangle, $245; INDEX
A WO R D ABOUT DI SCOUN TE RS W HI LE VOGU E TH OROUG HLY RESE A RCH ES T HE COM PA NI ES
Shorts, $50; reebok.com. 76: On Olivier: Muscle tank MOMENT OF THE MONTH alexisbittar.com. Sandals, 96–97: 1. Necklace, price
In this story: Tailor, Cha Cha top ($60) and leggings 88–89: On Ferguson: $248; torysport.com. upon request. 5. Blouse
Zuctic. ($85); outdoorvoices.com. Earring, $635 for pair; 92: Top and shorts, also at isabelmarant.com.
On Cenia: Muscle tank Neiman Marcus stores. priced upon request. 6. Bag, $2,725. 7. Bracelet,
THE PET SET top ($60) and leggings On Kos: Necklace, $1,850. Earring, $199 for pair; $7,000. 13. Boot, $2,495.
70–71: Jacket and skirt; ($85); outdoorvoices.com. On all: Shoes, price upon atelierswarovski.com.
similar styles at Proenza On Donaldson: T-shirt, request; select Prada Dinosaur Designs bangle,
Schouler, NYC. Céline $65; outdoorvoices.com. boutiques. In this story: $105; dinosaurdesigns LAST LOOK
earrings, $500; Céline, NYC. On Phillips: Muscle tank Manicure, Anatole Rainey. .com. RJ Graziano bangle, 104: Slingbacks; select
Michael Kors Collection top ($60), shorts ($65); Tailor, Sami Bedioui. $85; rjgraziano.com. Prada boutiques.
sandals, price upon and leggings ($85); Sandals, price upon
request; select Michael Kors outdoorvoices.com. On all: STRIKE A POSE request; area.nyc. 94: On ALL PRICES
stores. 72–73: Bustier top Training shoes, $55; nike 90: Sandals, $1,085; select Borges: Earring, $365 for APPROXIMATE
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