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SA-7800 with burnt out resistors


Discussion in 'Pioneer Audio' started by leesonic, Dec 12, 2012.

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I picked up another SA-7800 the other day. Some people seem to collect stray
cats and dogs, others collect weird British or European cars (I do this as well),
others collect this old equipment.

Cosmetically, it's in good shape even before I started cleaning it. I opened up the
case to blast the cobwebs away with my air blow-off tool, and found three
leesonic resistors burnt out.
Dracula Gottfried

I need another project like a fish needs a bicycle...

Lee.

1 of 13 11/10/2015 10:32 AM
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leesonic, Dec 12, 2012 Report #1 Like + Quote Reply

Fish do need bikes... you didn't know that Lee!? Wow, that faceplate looks
absolutely pristine in the photos.

Brent
SolutionRoom Solution Room Studios
...***... Acoustic Drum Recording

SolutionRoom, Dec 12, 2012 Report #2 Like + Quote Reply

150 ohms each, 1/2 watt, emitter resistors for the driver transistors, as well as
NSA transistors by the cooked 560 ohm...
hope the stv-2h survived.

[IMG]
markthefixer
ESCAPED:armed &
dangerous
Nothing is ever completely fool proof, because fools are so ingenious.

markthefixer, Dec 12, 2012 Report #3 Like + Quote Reply

Shame it's missing a switch cover. Otherwise, it at least looks hot... and ran hot,
hah.

technics SU-7700 / ST-7300 / RS-615 / SL-1200MK2 / ortofon 2M red / custom speakers / 2x YST-300 subwoofers /
1TUFSS objective DAC / eighties speed metal

1TUFSS, Dec 12, 2012 Report #4 Like + Quote Reply

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Thread Killer

When I get some time (there's only a few hours a week where the soldering iron
isn't in reach of prying little fingers), I'm going to remove Q11, 13, 23, 25 and the
outputs Q1 and Q3 and test them. And D7, the STV2H as well.

Or should I just remove all the transistors on this channel and test them?

leesonic Lee.
Dracula Gottfried
leesonic, Dec 30, 2012 Report #5 Like + Quote Reply

All of them, and the diodes too. And at least any resistor under 5000 ohms as
well - one leg lifted to eliminate any circuit effects. 5000 ohms with the voltages
in this circuit - we're looking at the wattage calculation for worst case current that
could fry the part - which could die before blackening the surface.

Good old NSA amps - even I do 100 percent component testing. :sigh:
markthefixer
ESCAPED:armed & [IMG]
dangerous

Nothing is ever completely fool proof, because fools are so ingenious.

markthefixer, Dec 30, 2012 Report #6 Like + Quote Reply

markthefixer said: ↑

All of them, and the diodes too. And at least any resistor under 5000 ohms as well - one leg
lifted to eliminate any circuit effects. 5000 ohms with the voltages in this circuit - we're
looking at the wattage calculation for worst case current that could fry the part - which could
die before blackening the surface.

Good old NSA amps - even I do 100 percent component testing. :sigh:
leesonic
Dracula Gottfried
So, the burning question is, if I'm pulling all the transistors anyway to test them,
should I just replace them with all new ones? Thirty year old transistors might age
better than thirty year old electrolytic capacitors, but we all know about the "black
leg" problem with these small signal transistors.

Do you have a list of replacements handy? If not, I'm not frightened of using the
search feature.

Thanks mate,

Lee.
leesonic, Dec 30, 2012 Report #7 Like + Quote Reply

3 of 13 11/10/2015 10:32 AM
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That looks like one of my Kenwoods after two receivers were connected to each
other though the speaker connections. Yep, it was my "Duh" :scratch2:"Stupidest
thing you've ever done in Hi-Fi" thread answers.

DaWoofer, Dec 30, 2012 Report #8 Like + Quote Reply


DaWoofer
New Member

q1,q2 2sa979 dual 100v 50ma .2w 250-800hfe


q3 q4 2sc2291 dual 100v 100ma .2w 100mhz 250-1200hfe
leave these dual transistors alone.

q31 2sa733 60v .1a .25w 180mhz 200hfe


q13 q14 q15 q16 2sa750 50v 50ma .25w 130mhz 450hfe
markthefixer q19 q20 2sa872a 120v 50ma .3w 120mhz 250-800hfe
ESCAPED:armed & q27 q28 2sa1914 90v 50ma .2w 150mhz 250-1200hfe
dangerous
512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe $0.05 ea

q5 q6 2sa912 150v 100ma .75w 200mhz


512-KSA1220AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.39
(R=60-120, O=100/200, Y=160/320)

q29 q30 q32 2sc945 60v .1a .25w 150mhz 90-600hfe


q11 q12 q17 q18 2sc1400 100v 50ma .25w 100mhz 500hfe
q7 q8 q21 q22 2sc1775 90v 50ma .3w 200m 400-1200hfe
512-KSC1845EBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe $0.05 ea

q9 q10 2sc1885 150v 50ma .75w 200mhz 150hfe


512-KSC2690AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.40

q25 q26 2sa913 to-220 150v 1.5a 15w 65-330hfe 120mhz


512-KSA940TU_Q pnp to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54 unh
unh not fast enough

q23 q24 2sc1913 to-220 150v 1.5a 15w 65-330hfe 120mhz


512-KSC2073TU npn to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54 unh unh
not fast enough

drat I missed the : unh unh not fast enough


so:
q25 q26 2sa913 to-220 150v 1.5a 15w 65-330hfe 120mhz
too slow: 512-KSA940TU_Q pnp to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe
$0.54 unh unh not fast enough

q23 q24 2sc1913 to-220 150v 1.5a 15w 65-330hfe 120mhz

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too slow: 512-KSC2073TU npn to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe
$0.54 unh unh not fast enough

2sa985/a pnp to-220 bce 120v/150v 1.5a 25w 180mhz 35-320hfe orig 180mhz
nsa driver
2sc2275/a npn to-220 bce 120v/150v 1.5a 25w 200mhz 35-320hfe orig 200mhz
nsa driver
b&d 2sa985,2sc2275, 2sa985a,2sc2275a

***************!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
757-2SA1930(Q,M) pnp to-220 bce 180v 2a 20w 200mhz 50-320hfe 200mhz
nsa driver
757-2SC5171(Q,M) npn to-220 bce 180v 2a 20w 200mhz 50-320hfe 200mhz
nsa driver
***************!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

b&d
2sa913/a to-220 bce 150/180v 1a 15w 65-330hfe 120mhz sa-7800 nsa driver
2sa1011 pnp to-220 bce 180v 1.5a 25w 100mhz 50-200hfe 100mhz nsa driver
2sc2344 npn to-220 bce 180v 1.5a 25w 100mhz 50-200hfe 100mhz nsa driver

q33 2sc1384 50v 1.5a 1w 200mhz

d1 - 6, 9-16 1s2076 replace: replace 1n4148 100v .2a


d7 d8 stv2h
d17-20 d23 1s2471 replace: replace 1n4148 100v .2a
d21 d22 d24 (prot) 1s2472 55v replace 1n4148 100v .2a
d25 mz-130 512-1N5243B Fairchild 13 V, 0.5W Zener

sa-7800 Power amp GWH118


Last edited: Dec 31, 2012

[IMG]

Nothing is ever completely fool proof, because fools are so ingenious.

markthefixer, Dec 30, 2012 Report #9 Like + Quote Reply

5 of 13 11/10/2015 10:32 AM
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leesonic, Are you going to recap it? Please post a list if you can!

Marty Socal, Dec 30, 2012 Report #10 Like + Quote Reply
Marty Socal
New Member

markthefixer said: ↑

q25 q26 2sa913 to-220 150v 1.5a 15w 65-330hfe 120mhz


512-KSA940TU_Q pnp to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54 unh unh not fast
enough

q23 q24 2sc1913 to-220 150v 1.5a 15w 65-330hfe 120mhz


512-KSC2073TU npn to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54 unh unh not fast
leesonic enough
Dracula Gottfried

Any suggested replacements for these? I read in this thread that you were
investigating some TO-123 transistors that would be fast enough (see? I DO do
my research). Did you ever find any? I'll by testing the ones I have, but it would
be nice to have a replacement lined up just in case.

Lee.
leesonic, Dec 31, 2012 Report #11 Like + Quote Reply

leesonic said: ↑

Any suggested replacements for these? I read in this thread that you were investigating
some TO-123 transistors that would be fast enough (see? I DO do my research). Did you
ever find any? I'll by testing the ones I have, but it would be nice to have a replacement
lined up just in case.

Lee.
avionic
Aim High !!!
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=6359787&postcount=3

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] -
Bridged Yamaha B-6's l C-85 l PF-800/DL-160 l CA AZUR 740 l
NS-1000M's

Keep it pithy! No bloviating !


RET USAF 1978-1998

" Artie knows what we don't "-- PPP

avionic, Dec 31, 2012 Report #12 Like + Quote Reply

drat, I missed this warning to myself in my notes before i posted them...

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markthefixer said: ↑

q25 q26 2sa913 to-220 150v 1.5a 15w 65-330hfe 120mhz


512-KSA940TU_Q pnp to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54 unh unh not fast
enough

q23 q24 2sc1913 to-220 150v 1.5a 15w 65-330hfe 120mhz


512-KSC2073TU npn to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54 unh unh not fast
markthefixer enough
ESCAPED:armed &
dangerous

757-2SA1930(Q,M) pnp to-220 bce 180v 2a 20w 200mhz 50-320hfe 200mhz


nsa driver
757-2SC5171(Q,M) npn to-220 bce 180v 2a 20w 200mhz 50-320hfe 200mhz
nsa driver

$0.57 ea, but the 757-2SC5171(Q,M) is a 1/21/2013 availability date... :tears:

You know, I don't think those things go up past an amp in use, you could also try
these at 1.2 amps:
512-KSA1220AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.39
(R=60-120, O=100/200, Y=160/320)
512-KSC2690AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.40

they have been in the back of my mind to try for a year or two now...
watch out: to-220 is BCE, to-126 is ECB
Last edited: Dec 31, 2012

[IMG]

Nothing is ever completely fool proof, because fools are so ingenious.

markthefixer, Dec 31, 2012 Report #13 Like + Quote Reply

Marty said: ↑

leesonic, Are you going to recap it? Please post a list if you can!

Here it is! All will become clear if you copy the text below, paste it into Notepad,
Wordpad, or any other text editor, but then save it with the extension CSV and
then open it in Excel. This listing is for the other SA-7800 I reworked, but still
leesonic
Dracula Gottfried should be good.

Pioneer SA-7800 re-cap,,,,,Nichicon UKL = low leakage


,,,,,Nichicon UES then UVP = bipolar
,,,,,Nichicon UKW = audio grade
Phono Stage,,,,,
Part Number,uF,V,Notes,Values if different,Mouser Part Number
Capacitors,,,,,
1,3.3,25,low leakage,50v,647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA
2,3.3,25,low leakage,=,647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA
23,4.7,25,bipolar,35v,647-UES1V4R7MDM

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24,4.7,25,bipolar,35v,647-UES1V4R7MDM
13,47,25,,=,647-UKW1E470MDD
14,47,25,,=,647-UKW1E470MDD
7,47,50,,=,647-UKW1H470MED
8,47,50,,=,647-UKW1H470MED
9,47,50,,=,647-UKW1H470MED
10,47,50,,=,647-UKW1H470MED
11,470,6,,=,647-UKW0J471MED
12,470,6,,=,647-UKW0J471MED

Transistors,,,,,
"1,2",2SA1114,KSA992,,,
"3,4",2SC1117A,KSC1845PBU,,,
"5,6",2SA912,KSA1142 + heatsinks,,,

Power Supply,,,,,
28,2.2,50,,=,647-UKW1H2R2MDD
34,47,50,low leakage,=,647-UKL1H470KPDANA
35,47,50,low leakage,=,647-UKL1H470KPDANA
36,47,63,,=,647-UKW1J470MED
37,47,63,,=,647-UKW1J470MED
33,100,10,,=,647-UKW1A101MDD
29,220,80,,100v,647-UKW2A221MHD
30,220,80,,100v,647-UKW2A221MHD
39,8000,50,KG,8200uF 50v,647-LKG1H822MESCBK
40,8000,50,KG,8200uF 50v,647-LKG1H822MESCBK
41,8000,50,KG,8200uF 50v,647-LKG1H822MESCBK
42,8000,50,KG,8200uF 50v,647-LKG1H822MESCBK

Display,,,,,
3,1,50,,=,647-UKW1H010MDD
4,1,50,,=,647-UKW1H010MDD
13,2.2,50,,=,647-UKW1H2R2MDD
5,2.2,50,,=,647-UKW1H2R2MDD
6,2.2,50,,=,647-UKW1H2R2MDD
9,47,25,,=,647-UKW1E470MDD
10,47,25,,=,647-UKW1E470MDD
12,47,25,,=,647-UKW1E470MDD
11,47,50,,=,647-UKW1H470MED

Tone control,,,,,
39,4.7,25,bipolar,35v,647-UES1V4R7MDM
40,4.7,25,bipolar,35v,647-UES1V4R7MDM
41,22,16,bipolar,=,647-UES1C220MEM
42,22,16,bipolar,=,647-UES1C220MEM
51,22,16,bipolar,=,647-UES1C220MEM
52,22,16,bipolar,=,647-UES1C220MEM

Power amp,,,,,

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21,0.22,50,low leakage,=,647-UKL1HR22KDDANA
22,0.22,50,low leakage,=,647-UKL1HR22KDDANA
26,100,50,,=,647-UKW1H101MPD
25,330,6.3,,=,647-UKW0J331MED

Trimmers ,,,,,
100R,,,,,652-3296Y-1-101LF
68K,,,,50k,652-3296Y-1-503LF

I tried keeping the same values as the original, but some capacitors could only
be obtained in slightly higher voltages, and the main smoothing caps are slightly
higher capacitance. The column marked "values if different" should help here, if
the value shown is "=" then the same capacitance and voltage as the originals
are used.

I used Nichicon ES for bipolar, KL for low-leakage (essential to use these), and
KW "audio grade" for everything else. I know Mark uses PWs for all the others,
so you might want to substitute his recommendation for mine. I know on the
other SA-7800 I re-worked, the thing sounded really nice, especially on the
phono input.

I haven't managed to pull any transistors or other components from this amplifier
yet, as I already have a Kenwood, a Sansui and an Optonica amp in pieces at
the moment. Once they're done though, I'll get to work on this one.

Lee.
leesonic, Jan 13, 2013 Report #14 Like + Quote Reply

Cool! :tresbon: I'll make a link to this post in the recap list I started!

Marty Socal, Jan 14, 2013 Report #15 Like + Quote Reply
Marty Socal
New Member

OK, I got to do some testing on this today, and my findings weren't good. I
started with the outputs, desoldering them and testing, the 2SC2525 was shorted
from B-C and open from C-E (B=Base, C=Collector, E=Emitter). The 2SA1075
was shorted across all three pins in every direction. I was so astounded, I had to
go and find an known good (new) transistor to test, just to make sure I wasn't
dreaming. I even pulled it off the heatsink to check there were no short circuits
leesonic there.
Dracula Gottfried

I was wondering, can I use the On-Semi MJL3281 and MJL1302 outputs that I
bought for my SA-9800 but didn't use? I think I can get them to fit on the heatsink

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with a little persuasion, of course I will post pictures here for the benefit of
others. I already have all the other transistors needed for the amp board.

Just for sh*ts and giggles, I tested the outputs on the other channel, they are both
fine.

Lee.

p.s. The SA-9800 isn't forgotten, it's just buried in my storage unit right now since
we moved house.
Last edited: Feb 1, 2013

leesonic, Feb 1, 2013 Report #16 Like + Quote Reply

the drivers (q23, q24, q25, q26)for the outputs have to b e 100mhz plus
transistors.
the mjl3281 are 30mhz, so yes you have a fighting chance of good low distortion
output.

fitting them is going to be quite a physical challenge.


markthefixer
ESCAPED:armed & [IMG]
dangerous

Nothing is ever completely fool proof, because fools are so ingenious.

markthefixer, Feb 5, 2013 Report #17 Like + Quote Reply

markthefixer said: ↑

q27 q28 2sa1914 90v 50ma .2w 150mhz 250-1200hfe


512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe $0.05 ea

Just getting back into this. I don't want to tug on Superman's cape here, but Q27
and Q28 are 2SC1914A, not 2SA1914. I've searched other threads, and it looks
leesonic
Dracula Gottfried like they can be replaced with :

512-KSC1845EBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe $0.05 ea

Lee.
leesonic, Mar 11, 2013 Report #18 Like + Quote Reply

Did some more work on this yesterday, I replaced all the transistors on the bad
channel. I don't know if I'm the only one who does this, but sometimes I like to
make up a little picture like the one below. It shows me at a glance what should
be coming out of what location, and what should be going back in. Any variation,
and it's back to the schematics, the service manual, or the search feature here on
AK.

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leesonic
Dracula Gottfried

Here a all the transistors replaced, plus the three burnt out resistors. My
transistors don't look at neat as Pioneers, but that's partly caused because I
clamp each lead with heatsink tweezers to reduce any damage caused by
soldering. (note to self : must see if I can get any smaller heatsink tweezers).

And here are the new OnSemi outputs installed. It was surprisingly easy, all I had
to do was solder some wires on the leads, and attach them onto the circuit
board. What you can't see in the picture are the insulators that went under each
transistor. I was able to use one of the original screw holes for these, I didn't
have to do any drilling or anything.

After installing these, I powered it up, and was amazed to hear the protection
relay click before I'd even set the bias or offset.

Lee.
leesonic, Mar 14, 2013 Report #19 Like + Quote Reply

OK, so I got the second pair of outputs installed, as well as the new transistors
on the right channel. I had to move the STV-2H diode on this side, you can see it

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in it's new location below, circled in yellow. I powered it up, and it clicked out of
protection as before. I set the bias using the procedure in the service manual,
starting with the 53mV measurement (VR5 and VR6). I waited about 5 minutes
and adjusted them back to 53mV for a total of four times, then I went on to VR7
and VR8, again adjusting them to
66mV as specifiied, waiting for the values to settle, and then re-adjusting.
leesonic
Dracula Gottfried The offsets were measured at 4.5mV on the right channel, dropping to 2.4mV,
but the left channel seemed kinda high at -27.6mV, rising to -45.7mV. Hooking it
up to my test speakers, it seemed to play fine until the power meter was between
1 and 10 watts, at which point the protection relay would click off. I found I could
back the volume off slightly, and have the protection relay click off in time with
the beat of the music. I tried turning the balance over to the left and then the right
channel, it would still do the same thing. I also tried pulling off the source feed
from the CD player channels one by one, still the same. It also didn't matter
whether the speakers were connected or not.

I took some measurements on the left channel, but I don't think the protection
clicking on and off like that is related to the relatively high offset compared to the
other channel. Maybe I should try re-capping it?

Here are the results, the service manual figures are shown in brackets :

Q5
B 45.7 (45.7)
C 3.7 (3.8)
E 46.2 (46.2)

Q7
B -45.4 (-45.3)
C -2.6 (-2.5)
E -44.9 (-45.9)

Q9
B -44.9 (-45.9)
C -2.6 (-2.5)
E -45.4 (-46.5)

Q23
B 1.1 (1.2)
C 45.8 (46)
E 0.6 (0.6)

Q25
B -1.2 (-1.2)
C -46 (-46)
E -0.6 (-0.6)

Q1 (output)

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B 575mV
C 45.6
E 11mV

Q3 (output)
B -652mV
C -45.6
E 83mV

leesonic, Mar 17, 2013 Report #20 Like + Quote Reply

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