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STEREO AMPLIFIER
Catalog Number 28-113
As you have probably noticed, music seems unnatural when played through only one speaker.
Stereo recordings are specially mixed in the studio to make sounds seem to originate from multiple
locations in a room. By using two separate amplifiers and speakers instead of only one the sound seems
to come from many directions just as it would if the band were actually there. This stereo amplifier can
reproduce sound with exciting realism.
Structurally, the amplifier consists of two identical audio amplifying circuits. Each audio amplifier
is equipped to amplify a small signal and drive a permanent magnet speaker. Each circuit consists of two
direct coupled transistors for voltage amplification and a matched pair of complementary transistors for
power output. Wide frequency response with low distortion is achieved in this stereo amplifier due to the
use of the direct-coupled transistor circuit.
T
CUSTOM MANUFACTURED IN U.S.A. BY RADIO SHACK A DIVISION OF TANDY CORPORATION
C
FIG. 1 – PICTORIAL DIAGRAM TOP VIEW
+
+
-
-
-
+ +
C5 J4 C10 J3
J2
R10 R21
R22
C C
R11
E Q4 Q8 E
B B
R9 R20
C C
E Q3 Q7 E
D4
D2
C4 B B C9
C C
Q6
R19
Q2
C8
C3
R8
D3
D2
D1
E E
+ B B +
R6 R17
R7 R18
E E
C Q1 + + Q5 C
R13
R2
R4 B C2 C7 B R15
+ +
R5 R3 R14 R16
C1 C6
R1 3 5 4 2 R12
A B C 1
A B C
J1
INPUT
JACK
LEFT RIGHT
VOLUME VOLUME
PARTS LIST
Qty Identification Symbol Vendor Vendor Part Price
2 1Meg Ohm Potentiometer R1, R12 Mouser PDB241-GTR02-105A2 $ 3.23 ea
2 68K Ohm 1/4W 1% Resistor R2, R13 Mouser MFR-25FRF52-68K $ 0.12 ea
6 15K Ohm 1/4W 1% Resistor R3-R5, R14-R16 Mouser MFR-25FRF52-15K $ 0.12 ea
2 1K Ohm 1/4W 1% Resistor R6, R17 Mouser MFR-25FRF52-1K $ 0.10 ea
2 1.5K Ohm 1/4W 1% Resistor R7, R18 Mouser MFR-25FBF52-1K5 $ 0.10 ea
2 7.5K Ohm 1/4W 1% Resistor R8, R19 Mouser MFR-25FBF52-7K5 $ 0.10 ea
4 0.47 Ohm 1/4W 1% Resistor R9-R10, R20-R21 Mouser MFR-25FBF52-0R47 $ 0.46 ea
2 680 Ohm 1/4W 1% Resistor R11, R22 Mouser MFR-25FBF52-680R $ 0.12 ea
4 10uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor C1-C2, C6-C7 Mouser USR1E100MDD1TE $ 0.15 ea
2 100uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor C4, C9 Mouser ULD1E101MED1TD $ 0.20 ea
2 1000uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor C5, C10 Mouser UVR1E102MPD1TD $ 0.44 ea
2 330pF 50V Ceramic Capacitor C3, C8 Mouser D331K20Y5PL6TJ5R $ 0.10 ea
4 1N4148 Diode D1-D4 Mouser 512-1N4148 $ 0.10 ea
4 2N3904 NPN Transistor Q1, Q3, Q5, Q7 Mouser 2N3904BU $ 0.20 ea
4 2N3906 PNP Transistor Q2, Q4, Q6, Q8 Mouser 2N3906BU $ 0.23 ea
1 1/8” Stereo Jack J1 Mouser 490-SJ1-3545N $ 1.31 ea
3 2-Position Terminal Strip J2-J4 Mouser 1546217-2 $ 0.64 ea
4 #4-40 Hex Nut Mouser 7230-3 $ 0.08 ea
4 #4-40 1/4” Machine Screw Mouser 534-9900 $ 0.11 ea
4 #4 Lock Washer Mouser 7230-2 $ 0.06 ea
2 Volume Knob Mouser 506-PKD70B1/4 $ 4.15 ea
1 Project Box Mouser 1591GSBK $ 5.33 ea
1 4” x 5” Perfboard Mouser 7100-45 $ 4.68 ea
4 TO-92 Heat Sink Mouser 575200B00000G $ 0.69 ea
1 9V Battery Clip Mouser 534-235 $ 0.74 ea
Approximate cost for all parts is $40 from Mouser (not including tax and shipping). With a reasonably stocked parts box, or
purchasing bulk assortment kits from Amazon, eBay, or UxCell.com the cost can be reduced to around $18.
STEP-BY-STEP WIRING AND ASSEMBLY DIRECTIONS
Be sure to carefully follow all the directions. Do one step at a time and then check off the step in the box provided.
Before beginning, read over the enclosed page labeled “Construction Hints”.
NOTE: Pay particular attention to the physical location of the transistor leads and proper orientation of the electrolytic
capacitors. Improper connections to these components can cause their destruction.
( ) Check the parts list to see that everything listed is ( ) Run a bare wire between the negative (-) pins of J2,
included. Check each step as you progress (). J4, and J3. Twist one loop of wire around each pin to
keep the wire secure. Solder the negative (-) pins of
( ) Place the pictorial diagram (Figure 1) near the J2 and J3 only.
perfboard so that it can be used as a guide for exact
placement of parts. The gray lines in the pictorial ( ) Run a bare wire between the negative (-) pin of J4 and
diagram indicate wires that are mounted under the pins 1, 4, and 5 of J1. Twist one loop of wire around
perfboard. The solid lines indicate components and each pin to keep the wire secure and then solder. The
wires mounted on top of the perfboard. bare wires are the GROUND BUS for the amplifier.
( ) Expand holes in the perfboard for the two (2) You are now ready to construct the left channel amplifier.
mounting brackets and Install using #4-40 screws, lock
washers, and hex nuts as indicated in Fig. 2. A
B
C
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 2
( ) Run an insulated wire from solder lug A on the left
potentiometer R1, to Pin 2 on stereo input connector
( ) Mount the two (2) 1 Meg volume controls, R1 and R12
J1. Strip 1/8” insulation from each end and solder.
in their respective brackets as shown in Fig. 3 using
the supplied flat washers and hex nuts. Read the lugs
( ) Run an insulated wire from solder lug C on the left
A, B, and C in a clockwise direction while looking at
potentiometer R1, to the bare wire GROUND BUS.
the front of the volume controls as shown in Fig. 3.
Strip 1/8” insulation from each end and solder.
( ) Straighten the pins of J1 so that they can more easily
( ) Insert 10uF capacitor C1 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend the
be inserted into the perfboard. Install J1 through J4 in
leads slightly outward to keep the capacitor in place.
the positions indicated, spreading the leads slightly so
that the connectors stay in place when the perfboard is
( ) Run an insulated wire from solder lug B on the left
turned over.
potentiometer R1, to the negative (-) lead of C1. Strip
1/8” insulation from each end and solder.
( ) Insert 15K resistor R4 as indicated in Fig. 1. Solder ( ) Insert 1000uF capacitor C5 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend
one end to the positive (+) lead of capacitor C1. Trim leads slightly outward to keep C5 in place.
both leads of C1 and R4.
( ) Wrap the negative (-) lead of C5 around the positive
( ) Insert 15K resistor R3 as shown in Fig. 1. Solder one (+) pin of J2 but do not solder yet.
end to the bare wire GROUND BUS. Trim the
soldered lead of R3 only. ( ) Insert 0.47 Ohm resistor R10 as shown in Fig. 1.
Bend leads slightly outward to keep R10 in place.
( ) Insert 1K resistor R7 as shown in Fig. 1. Solder one
( ) Insert 0.47 Ohm resistor R9 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend
end to the bare wire GROUND BUS. Trim the
leads slightly outward to keep R9 in place.
soldered lead of R7 only.
( ) Run a bare wire between the positive (+) lead of C5, to
( ) Insert 15K resistor R5 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend the R10 and R9, and then to R8. Solder the wire to C5,
leads of R3 and R5 together and trim as needed, then R10, R9, and R8. Trim all leads.
solder R5 to R3.
( ) Insert 680 Ohm resistor R11 as shown in Fig. 1. Wrap
( ) Insert 68K resistor R2 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend one one lead around the positive (+) pin of J2 and solder.
lead of R2 over the leads of R3/R5 and solder. Trim Trim leads.
the soldered lead of R2.
( ) Insert 1N4148 diodes D1 and D2 as shown in Fig. 1.
Twist the anode lead of D2 to the cathode lead of D1
( ) Insert 1.5K resistor R6 as shown in Fig. 1. Wrap the
and solder. Trim leads.
lead of R6 one turn around R2 and solder. Trim the
soldered lead of R6 only. Do not trim R2 yet.
( ) Wrap the cathode lead of D2 around R11 (one turn)
and solder. Trim soldered D2 lead only.
( ) Insert 7.5K resistor R8 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend the
leads of R8 outward slightly to keep it in place.
( ) Insert 100uF capacitor C4 as shown in Fig 1. Connect
the negative (-) lead of C4 to R11/D2 and solder. Trim
( ) Insert 330pF capacitor C3 as shown in Fig. 1. Wrap
leads for D2 and C4 but do not trim R11 yet.
each lead one time around the leads of R8 and solder.
Trim the leads of C3 only.
( ) Wrap the anode lead of diode D1 to the positive (+)
lead of C4 but do not solder yet.
( ) Insert 10uF capacitor C2 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend the
negative (-) lead of C2 over the leads of R3/R5 and
( ) Insert 2N3906 transistor Q2 as shown in Fig. 1.
solder. Trim the negative lead of C2 only.
Connect the base (B) lead to R6 and solder. Trim
leads.
( ) Bend one lead of R8 toward R7 and C2. Wrap one
turn around R7 and the positive (+) lead of C2, then
( ) Connect R6 to the emitter (E) lead of Q2 and solder.
solder R8 to R7/C2. Trim the lead of R7 and R8 only.
Trim soldered lead of R6 only.
( ) Insert 2N3904 transistor Q1 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend
( ) Connect the collector (C) lead of Q2 to the positive (+)
the base (B) lead toward R4/R5, the collector (C) lead
lead of C4 and solder. Trim soldered lead of C4 only.
toward R6, and the emitter (E) lead toward C2.
( ) Run an insulated wire between the positive (+) lead of ( ) Insert 68K resistor R13 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend one
J4 to the collector (C) lead of Q3. Strip 1/8” from each lead of R13 over the leads of R14/R16 and solder.
end. Solder the insulated wire to the collector (C) lead Trim the soldered lead of R13.
of Q3 and trim leads. Wrap the other end to the
positive (+) lead of J4 but do not solder yet. ( ) Insert 1.5K resistor R17 as shown in Fig. 1. Wrap the
lead of R17 one turn around R13 and solder. Trim the
( ) Insert 2N3906 transistor Q4 as shown in Fig. 1. soldered lead of R17 only. Do not trim R13 yet.
Attach the unsoldered lead of R11 to the base (B) lead
of Q4 and solder. ( ) Insert 7.5K resistor R19 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend the
leads of R19 outward slightly to keep it in place.
( ) Connect R10 to the emitter (E) lead of Q4 and solder.
Trim leads. ( ) Insert 330pF capacitor C8 as shown in Fig. 1. Wrap
each lead one time around the leads of R19 and
( ) Run an insulated wire from the collector (C) lead of Q4 solder. Trim the leads of C8 only.
to the GROUND BUS. Trim 1/8” insulation from each
end and solder. ( ) Insert 10uF capacitor C7 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend the
negative (-) lead of C7 over the leads of R14/R16 and
You have completed the wiring for the left channel amplifier solder. Trim the negative lead of C7 only.
and are now ready to construct the right channel amplifier.
( ) Bend one lead of R19 toward R18 and C7. Wrap one
( ) Run an insulated wire from solder lug A on the right turn around R18 and the positive (+) lead of C7, then
potentiometer R12, to Pin 3 on stereo input connector solder R19 to R18/C7. Trim the lead of R18 and R19
J1. Strip 1/8” insulation from each end and solder. only.
( ) Run an insulated wire from solder lug C on the right ( ) Insert 2N3904 transistor Q5 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend
potentiometer R12, to the bare wire GROUND BUS. the base (B) lead toward R15/R16, the collector (C)
Strip 1/8” insulation from each end and solder. lead toward R17, and the emitter (E) lead toward C7.
( ) Insert 10uF capacitor C6 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend the ( ) Solder the base (B) lead of Q5 to resistors R15 and
leads slightly outward to keep the capacitor in place. R16. Trim leads.
( ) Run an insulated wire from solder lug B on the right ( ) Bend the positive (+) lead of C7 toward the emitter (E)
potentiometer R12, to the negative (-) lead of C6. lead of Q5 and solder. Trim leads.
Strip 1/8” insulation from each end and solder.
( ) Solder the collector (C) of Q5 to R17 and trim Q5 lead
( ) Insert 15K resistor R15 as indicated in Fig. 1. Solder only.
one end to the positive (+) lead of capacitor C6. Trim
both leads of C6 and R15. ( ) Insert 1000uF capacitor C10 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend
leads slightly outward to keep C10 in place.
( ) Insert 15K resistor R14 as shown in Fig. 1. Solder one
end to the bare wire GROUND BUS. Trim the ( ) Wrap the negative (-) lead of C10 around the positive
soldered lead of R14 only. (+) pin of J3 but do not solder yet.
( ) Run a bare wire between the positive (+) lead of C10, ( ) Insert 2N3906 transistor Q8 as shown in Fig. 1.
to R21 and R20, and then to R19. Solder the wire to Attach the unsoldered lead of R22 to the base (B) lead
C10, R21, R20, and R19. Trim all leads. of Q8 and solder.
( ) Insert 680 Ohm resistor R22 as shown in Fig. 1. Wrap
( ) Connect R21 to the emitter (E) lead of Q8 and solder.
one lead around the positive (+) pin of J3 and solder.
Trim leads.
Trim leads.
( ) Insert 1N4148 diodes D3 and D4 as shown in Fig. 1. ( ) Run an insulated wire from the collector (C) lead of Q8
Twist the anode lead of D4 to the cathode lead of D3 to the GROUND BUS. Trim 1/8” insulation from each
and solder. Trim leads. end and solder.
( ) Wrap the cathode lead of D4 around R22 (one turn) ( ) Install heat sinks on Q3, Q4, Q7, and Q8.
and solder. Trim the soldered lead of D4 only.
( ) Insert 2N3904 transistor Q7 as shown in Fig. 1. Bend With the speakers and battery connected, you may run
the base (B) lead of Q7 and the collector (C) lead of a quick functional test. Plug a 1/8” (3.5mm) stereo cable
Q6 together and solder. into J1. Turn the volume control R1, R12 fully clockwise
and touch the stereo cable connector with your finger. A
( ) Connect R20 to the emitter (E) lead of Q7 and solder. hum will be heard. In case of difficulty review the assembly
Trim leads. instructions for proper construction and with a meter (if
available) refer to the schematic for proper value of voltage
( ) Using a short piece of bare wire, connect the emitter to the transistors.
(E) lead of Q6 with the collector (C) lead of Q7. Solder
the emitter (E) lead of Q6 but do not solder the INPUT HOOKUP
collector (C) lead of Q7 yet.
MUSIC PLAYER OR BLUETOOTH ADAPTOR
( ) Run an insulated wire between the positive (+) lead of
J4 to the collector (C) lead of Q7. Strip 1/8” from each Turn the volume control R1, R12 fully counter-clockwise
end. Solder the insulated wire to the collector (C) lead and plug in a male-to-male 1/8” (3.5mm) cable between the
music player and J1 of the amplifier. Start the music player
and slowly rotate the volume controls until sound is heard 9VDC
Power POWER
at the desired volume. Switch
+
-
AM/FM STEREO TUNER J4
FIGURE 4
A standard alkaline 9V battery will work for testing and
low volume operation, however it will not last long with
moderate to loud volume. To obtain longer portable BATTERY ELIMINATOR
operating time use a single PP9 9V 4500mAh battery
(Amazon B000LMQ3SK) and battery clips (Mouser 534- An AC-DC power supply is recommended for non-
262 and 534-269), or six alkaline batteries in a series portable use. 120V AC to DC 9V power supply 500mA or
battery holder. Below are the approximate amplifier run- greater. A universal AC-DC power adapter with 9V and
times at full output power for various battery types. 12V settings, 1000mA output current, and various DC
connector styles would be ideal. Replace the 2-position
CELL TYPE RUN TIME terminal block with a DC power connector (Mouser 490-PJ-
PP9 12 Hours 050A).
AA 6 Hours
C 22 Hours 12V BATTERY OPERATION
D 45 Hours
The amplifier can be modified to run with a 12V power
BATTERIES IN THE CASE source by replacing the following resistor values:
If component leads are kept short there should be just R2, 82K Ohm 1% 1/4W resistor
enough room for two 3-cell AA battery holders (Mouser R8, 8.2K Ohm 1% 1/4W resistor
12BH331-GR) under the perfboard as shown in Fig. 4. R13, 82K Ohm 1% 1/4W resistor
Wire them in series and attached a small toggle switch R19, 8.2K Ohm 1% 1/4W resistor
(Mouser 10TA805) so that power can be turned on and off
as needed. Attach double-sided tape to the back of the OUTPUT OFFSET VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT
battery holders and install the batteries. Find the location
that allows the perfboard to be fully seated, remove the To ensure that output power is evenly distributed
tape backing, and stick the holder in position. A thin piece between output transistors Q3/Q4 and Q7/Q8, the amplifier
of cardboard can be placed over the battery holders to output voltage on the positive (+) pin of C5/C10 should be
ensure the batteries do not touch component wiring. one half the power supply voltage. Due to component
Turn the switch on when running on battery power in tolerances the output voltage can be as much as +/- 0.5V
the case. Turn the switch off when running on external off. If you would like to fine tune the amplifier, replace R2
battery or AC-DC power adapter. and R13 with 10-Turn 100K Ohm trimmer resistors as
shown in Fig. 5. Start with the trimmers adjusted to their
maximum resistance before applying power. Attach be omitted and small PCB-mount potentiometers can be
speakers and power, then measure the voltage between used. This will reduce the amplifier profile by 1” or more.
the negative (-) power terminal and any lead of R9/R10 and
R20/R21. Adjust R2/R13 until the voltage is one half the
battery voltage.
FIGURE 5
FIGURE 6
The volume potentiometers R1 and R12 were oriented to The above suggestions are only a few of the things that
make them easier to wire into the amplifier circuit. After can be done to adapt the amplifier for different input and
soldering and testing, loosen the front potentiometer nuts output requirements. There are many different changes
and rotate each potentiometer so that the terminals face and improvements that could be made limited only by your
inward as shown. Then firmly retighten the potentiometer imagination.
nuts. This reduces the amplifier height by 1/4”. If more
space is needed, the potentiometer mounting brackets can
SCHEMATIC
The original circuit design for the Stereo Amplifier from Radio Shack used 8 germanium transistors arranged in
three stages: Differential Amplifier, CE Driver, and Push‐Pull Output. These stages were common in high‐end
commercial amplifier design so the 8 Transistor Stereo Amplifier project should have earned a lot of fans back then.
However, after only 3 years the kit was withdrawn which suggests that after the initial catalog marketing interval
the product was only around for a year. When the kit was produced in 1969, Silicon junction transistors had
replaced Germanium in new commercial amplifier designs. However, GE and ETCO continued selling Germanium
transistors to hobbyists until about 1979 through Radio Shack, Lafayette, Poly Paks, and others. So, why did the kit
not have a successful run?
Well, there are some good reasons:
Germanium was a relatively easy element to work with during the early days of the transistor but it's weaknesses
made Silicon a more attractive element after manufacturing challenges were overcome. Germanium has a lower
energy gap between the valence and conduction band which results in higher leakage current proportional to
temperature. Germanium has lower thermal conductivity than silicon which makes it harder for the transistor get
rid of internally generated heat. As internal temperature rises, more leakage current occurs which generates more
heat... and so on. These two properties combined can result in thermal runaway ending in device self destruction.
The original amplifier design did not provide a method for preventing thermal runaway in a push‐pull configuration
which made the amplifier unreliable.
By 1959 no manufacturer had discovered a way to build an oxide on Germanium. This allowed Silicon oxide planar
transistors to achieve manufacturing dominance in terms of yield, cost, and reliability. As the cost of Silicon
transistors fell, Germanium could not keep up and eventually the transistors used in the kit became too expensive.
To minimize the potential for thermal runaway, Radio Shack sold matched pair semiconductors that were sorted
by hand which further increased the cost of the transistors.
At $9.00 ($61 in 2017) the 8 Transistor Stereo Amplifier was the most expensive kit in the Pbox line and contained
56 parts. By comparison the 3 Transistor Short Wave Radio kit at $8 had only 39 parts and the FM Wireless
Microphone kit at $7 had only 23. I suspect there were very few young customers able to afford a product this
complex, and there were more factory rework and refund returns than anticipated.
So...
To overcome the limitations of the original kit, I've included a few modifications to improve performance and
reliability including:
1. Redesign the amplifier to use readily available Silicon transistors.
2. Improved bias control for push‐pull stage.
3. Increase output coupling capacitance to improve low frequency response.
4. Add compensation capacitor to increase high frequency roll‐off above audio frequencies.
5. Replace tin‐plated spring terminals with terminal strips and stereo jack to improve connection reliability.
6. Re‐scale amplifier gain for maximum power at modern line level voltages.
I haven't attempted to simplify the project. My redesign requires 69 parts and the assembly document is 9 pages
long. So I do not recommend this project for a novice. But if you like working with discrete analog components on
perfboard and you have good soldering skills, this project is just the right challenge.
I think this kit redesign is far and away the most fun I've had working on these Pbox redesigns. The 8 Transistor
Stereo Amplifier project I built can easily fill a room with great sound when attached to a set of good speakers. It's
impressive what can be achieved with a few transistors and a standard 9V battery (even if that battery won't last
long at full power).
Step 4: Review the Schematic to Become Familiar With the Stereo Amplifier Design
The right and left channel amplifiers are identical so I will only describe the right channel in this section.
There are three stages in the amplifier: A differential amplifier (Q1), a Common Emitter driver (Q2), and a Push‐Pull
Output (Q3 and Q4).
Differential Amplifier Stage
The Differential Amplifier stage provides three essential functions for the remaining stages:
1. A positive signal feedback loop consisting of C2 and R5 that increases amplifier input resistance to approximately
2M Ohms.
2. A DC feedback loop composed of R7 and R8 for controlling the overall amplifier gain, reducing distortion, and
keeping the push‐pull output voltage centered at 1/2 power supply voltage.
3. A first order low pass filter composed of C2 in combination with R7/R8 that limits high frequency response to
65Khz.
Resistors R2 and R3 form a voltage divider bias circuit for Q1 that sets the collector voltage around 8.2V and
collector current at 500uA. Voltage gain for the Differential Amplifier is ‐21db (loss) and the signal phase shift is
180 degrees so another amplifier stage is needed to correct this before sending the signal to the output stage.
Common Emitter Driver Stage
This is the voltage gain stage of the amplifier. Q2 amplifies the output of Q1 and provides +45db of voltage gain
which is used to drive the push‐pull output stage. To maximize gain and output voltage swing, Q2 doesn't use
emitter degeneration so it's collector output will be fairly non‐linear and temperature dependent. This is corrected
with the DC feedback loop R7 and R8.
Collector current for Q2 is set at 5mA and flows through the speaker, R11, D1, and D2. This small current through
the speaker isn't enough to generate measurable power or audible noise, but it provides a small feedback signal in
the collector circuit of Q2 that corrects crossover distortion in Q3/Q4.
The original amplifier circuit used a resistor to set the quiescent current for Q3/Q4. The voltage drop on that resistor
was proportional to the collector current in Q2 and just slightly turned on Q3/Q4 so the amplifier would operate in
a Class A mode for small signals. Unfortunately as the temperature changed in Q3/Q4, their base current would
increase raising the voltage drop on the resistor. As the voltage drop on the resistor increased, the Q3/Q4 quiescent
current would increase raising their temperature. This cycle would repeat until the temperatures of Q3/Q4 became
so high they self destruct.
To avoid this, I've replaced the original resistor bias with D1 and D2. The combination of these two diodes provide
a 1.4V bias for Q3/Q4 that is almost independent of the base current from Q3/Q4. Not exactly independent but
much closer than a resistor. D1 and D2 also have a negative temperature coefficient with respect to junction
voltage. So as the ambient temperature increases which tends to increase current in Q3/Q4, the junction voltage
of D1/D2 decreases which reduces current in Q3/Q4. Ideally D1 and D2 should be physically close to Q3/Q4
(mounted on the heat sink if possible) but the diode stabilization circuit used here has worked extremely well in
my temperature and output power tests. Capacitor C4 prevents ringing during Q3/Q4 crossover.
Push‐Pull Output Stage
The Push‐Pull output stage provides the current gain needed in combination with the voltage gain of the CE Driver
to produce the output power that drives the speaker. Q3 and Q4 work independently for large signals (Class B
operation) but in tandem for small signals (Class A operation). For large signals, Q3 will conduct for one half of a
cycle while Q4 will conduct for the other half. For small signals, Q3 and Q4 will contribute to both halves of the
cycle.
The DC output voltage on Q3/Q4 is 1/2 the power supply voltage in order to provide for the maximum AC voltage
swing without clipping distortion. For a 9V battery, the Push‐Pull DC output voltage is 4.5V. We don't want this DC
voltage to appear on the speaker as that will waste a lot of power heating up the speaker coil and generating no
sound in the process. We only want the AC voltage from the CE Driver stage to appear at the speaker. C5 decouples
the DC output voltage on the Push‐Pull stage from the speaker and allows only the AC voltage to appear. The trade‐
off with coupling capacitor C5 is that at low frequencies, the impedance of C5 will reduce the output voltage to the
speaker which limits the lowest frequency from the music source that can be amplified which in this case is around
27 Hz.
The voltage gain of the Push‐Pull output stage is ‐6db (loss) but the current gain for the Push‐Pull stage is +35db
which allows a tiny current in Q2 to produce a large current in Q3/Q4. The overall voltage gain of the amplifier is
the sum of all the stage gains:
Diff Amp Gain + CE Driver Gain + Push‐Pull Gain = (‐21db) + 45db + (‐6db) = +18db
Operating Parameters
After building the amplifier, the following operating parameters were measured with a power supply of 9V:
DC Quiescent Supply Current = 11mA per channel (22mA total)
Max Voltage Swing = 6Vpp
Power Supply Rejection = ‐20dB
Voltage Gain = +18db
Output Power at 1% THD = 0.525 W per channel
Input Impedance = 700 K Ohms
Frequency Response +/‐ 1% = 35 Hz to 20 KHz
Low Cutoff = 27 Hz
High Frequency Cutoff = 65 Khz