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LEILA W. KINNEY
Massachusetts
Instituteof Technology
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relieved of superfluous ornament, was equated with the bond between clothing and architecture is crucial to
functional male suit, especially during the years 1890 to Wigley's argument, but not always for the reasons one
1925; Le Corbusier, for instance, made this point by con- might suspect.Contraryto the typicalcondemnationof the
trasting images of Lenin and Louis XIV in L'Art dicoratif ornamentalexcessesof Secessionistarchitecture,for exam-
d'aujourd'hui. ple, Wigley states:"Indeed,they see their commitmentto
Analyzing many of the same sources used by McLeod, dressdesign as being responsiblefor their principleof con-
Wigley develops these points further.
The precisemeans by struction ratherthan a means to disregardit."' He elabo-
which he arguesthat Semper'sideaswere transposedto the rates this proposition across a large swath of modern
twentieth century are intriguing and no doubt debatable. architecture,where he persistentlytakesup Le Corbusier's
For example, Le Corbusier's "Law of Ripolin" (1925) challengeto "thinkagainsta backgroundof white."'
referredto Loos's"Lawof Dressing"(1898), which in turn However,it is the blackfrockcoat calledby Baudelaire
was obviouslyindebtedto Semper.In the end, Wigley redi- in 1845 "theouter skin of the modernhero"that takeson a
rects Semper'sargumentsabout polychromyand the func- surprisinglyliteralrole in the primarysourcesthat are ana-
tion of fabricsas a mask for the materialfunction of wall lyzed in these studies,as the cut of a man'ssuit is seen to be
towardwhitewashand erasure.Surfaceand skin,not struc- the paradigmaticmodel for the construction of modern
ture or space, are the basis of modern design, no matter housing in particular.9 The AnglophilesLoos and Muthe-
what its apologists said; following Semper,Wigley treats sius were influential in mobilizing English tailoring as a
spaceas clothing. He tracesa second displacementof Sem- model for architecture,arguing that the gentleman'ssuit
per'sthinkingby following the impact of Riegl'smodifica- achieveda stabilityof appearancein the face of the fickle
tion of it (a complicated subject in itself) on architects femininity of fashion (Figure 2). The dramatic sexual
associatedwith the various institutions out of which the dimorphismof clothing that characterizedthe nineteenth
modern emerged, specificallythe Viennese Secession, the centuryuntil its disruptionin the 1920s by the new look in
GermanWerkbund,and the Bauhaus,and then reconnects women'swear structuresMcLeod'saccountand providesa
to Sempervia the GermanandAustrianabsorptionof Eng- fascinatingfilter through which to examine the architec-
lish Arts and Crafts,which had a decisiveimpact on Sem- turalproductionof the firsthalfof the twentiethcentury.By
per'sarticulationof the "Principleof Dressing"in the first the late 1920s, after women's clothing had dramatically
place. A third version of Semper resonates in Chicago, changed,architectsincludingBrunoTautandLe Corbusier
throughthe contactsand mutualsympathiesbetweenLoos experienceda significantlevel of anxietyaboutthe laggard
andLouis Sullivan.A fourthis to be foundin Le Corbusier's styles of men'sclothing and, correspondingly,their lack of
unpublished1931 manuscripton polychromearchitecture. fit with domestic architecture (Figure 3). Tracking the
A fifth is transmittedthrough De Stijl.The survivalof the appearanceand disappearanceof male, female,andandrog-
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modern architecturewhen describing
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veau in France,its revivalof the rococo stylemoderne,and mity to a surprising conclusion (Figure 6). Using an
the feminizationof the luxury-craftstraditionprovidesan approachto the historyof clothing suggestiveof both Sur-
importantpart of the picture.Nancy Troy'songoing work realistexhibitiontacticsand ofJ. C. Flugel'sThePsychology
on the couturierPaul Poiret, who joined interior to dress of Clothes(1930),the exhibitionrevealeddressto be a bizarre
design in a mutuallyreinforcingenterprise,will no doubt architectonicreshapingof the humanbody. However,lest
offer another. one be misled, an introductory text panel proclaimed:
The organizationof the fashionindustryinto couture, "Warning!This is NOT a fashionor dress-reformshow."19
ready-to-wear,and interiorsectors needs to be more care- Felicity Scott has describedthe unusualgenesis and unex-
fullycorrelatedwith developmentsin architecture,an analy- pected presentationof this show at MoMA (the only one in
sis Val Warke has undertaken from a contemporary the museum's history devoted to clothing), which, she
perspective,wherethe parallelsseem obvious.'8 The process argues,deployedcostumeas a critiqueof modernarchitec-
by which modern architects embraced,more or less des- ture, specificallyof the excessiverationalizationand disre-
perately,standardizationas the solution to the twin prob- gard for domestichabitstypicalof the InternationalStyle.
lems of style and the chaotic change that afflicted As an architecture-reformshow, it began with a critical
commoditiesis a large topic. Schwartzhas made an impor- investigationof modern domestic habits. Because Rudof-
tantcontribution,with an analysisof Behrens'sdevelopment sky viewed architectureitself as a formalizationof habita-
of a trademarkand brand name for AEG that graspsnot tion and routine behavior,changingclothing'srelationship
only the substitutionof trademarkfor ornamentationin the to the body would entail a changein the spacesthat people
turbinefactorybuilding,but also the creationof a signature inhabit:"A change in dress from irrationalto rationalwill
style for the commodity.At the same time, the early-twen- bring about a parallelchange in our surroundingsand will
tieth-centuryarchitecturaldebateaboutstandardization and permitbetter ways of living."20Aestheticreformulation,in
the identificationof idealtypes(so strikinga departurefrom otherwords,wouldmove bottom-upratherthantop-down,
the typologicalfunctionthatphysiognomyandclothinghad a reversalof the typicalhierarchyof the materialarts. In a
servedin previouscenturies)can be more preciselyunder- displaywindowinstalleda month afterthe show'sopening,
stood by consideringthe history of the fashionindustry. Saks Fifth Avenue took up the narrow question, "Are
The unusualexhibitionorganizedby BernardRudof- clothes modern?"but, accordingto Scott, the architectural
sky 1944 for the Museum of Modern Art, Are Clothes
in journals did not engage Rudofsky'sproposed "readjust-
Modern?bringsthis embraceof standardizationandunifor- ment"of InternationalStyle architectureto accommodate
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BernardRudofsky,28 November 1944
to 4 March 1945. Analyticaldiagramof
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the modern business ensemble, with
twenty-four pockets and seventy but-
tons. Demonstratingthe decorative
aspects of modern clothing, Rudofsky's
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the savage, buttons and pockets are to
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the civilized."Photographcourtesy The
Museum of ModernArt, New York
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domestic habits.21Here againis a plea for an architecture adornmentthat Baudelairefirstidentifiedin his 1863 essay
of everydaylife, which, more than anythingelse, seems to "The Painter of Modern Life" became by the turn of the
characterizeboth the threat and the promise of architec- centurythe basisof social theories of imitationand emula-
ture'sengagementwith clothing. tion in writings on fashion by Georg Simmel in his essay
Relativelylittle writing on fashionhas originatedfrom "Die Mode" and by Thorstein Veblen in The Theoryof the
within the domain of architecture,whereasthe relatedlit- Leisure Class(1899).23 Today it dominatesunderstandingsof
eraturein economics,history,sociology,anthropology,cos- fashion, which is construedboth as an arenafor the con-
tume history, decorative arts, and women's studies is struction of identity and as a conceptual metaphor that
extensive.Aside from the majorscholarlyeffort underway explainsthe incompletenessand contingencyof that effort.
to write an adequatehistoryof consumersocieties,the most Sorting through these issues and their relevancefor archi-
compelling writing on fashion in the last thirty years has tecturalhistoryis a complicatedtaskandone still underway.
emphasizedunpredictableand resistantuses of commodi- But thanks to these initial analyses,the sheer quantityof
ties, particularlythe mobilizationof style in the definition referencesto clothingand fashionin architecturaldiscourse
of subcultures.22The personal transformation through can no longer be ignored.