WINES • PEOPLE • DOGS • HISTORY 

FUTURE ZINE 
BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR 2017 SPECIAL REPORT   

BORDEAUX V17
REBECCA GIBB MW
FUTURE ZINE   |  APRIL 2018
In the same week that French president Emmanuel
Macron was compared to Margaret Thatcher for
pursuing his liberalising agenda, Bordeaux’s finest
were doing their best to ignore the union-led
outrage. The world’s wine merchants and media
descended on the region to taste the latest vintage
and red carpets were literally rolled out to greet
them. If they arrived, that is. It was not a great week
for travelling to Bordeaux: Air France and the
national railway company SNCF were doing their
utmost to prevent anyone with a desire to stay,
leave or move around France. Luckily, I once again
had  a trusty Ford Fiesta to traverse the highways of
Bordeaux from Saint-Emilion to Saint-Estèphe.  All that remains is for prices to be set and orders to
Beyond the downpours and a freak hailstorm, en
primeur week painted a rather bright outlook for
the 2017 vintage. The wines, still slumbering in
barrel, provided a ray of sunshine: they were bright,
fragrant, fresh and approachable even at this early
stage. It might not be the greatest vintage of the
decade but the wines can be very good: I would be
delighted to have cases of this delicious vintage in
my cellar for the medium term at the very least.
 However, all wines are not born equal and this was
more apparent than in 2015 or 2016: there are
plenty of hits but more misses in 2017.  tasting notes. Enjoy!
Cover Image Credit: Chateau Mouton Rothschild
This page: Barrel Hall, Château Montrose
19
 "We have this wonderful period in May
and June [when scores and prices are
released]. The wine planet is focused
on Bordeaux and it’s a unique privilege.
It would be difficult to create the same
excitement without the primeurs.”
Bruno Borie, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
be placed. Or not. With collectors’ cellars full of 2015
and 2016 wines, one négociant admitted that there
may not be an appetite for this vintage. Instead,
these merchants will likely buy the wines to hold
back - even though prices might be high. The
market, as always, will be the final arbiter.
In this edition of Future Zine, you’ll find a concise
guide to the vintage including an overview of the
growing season, exclusive quotes from the
châteaux, a summary of the key appellations, tales
of the unexpected, and the finest wines with full
FUTURE ZINE   |  APRIL 2018
The Weather
Early spring:
The growing season kicked off early with mild
weather in February and March. A warm, dry and
sunny start to April encouraged new shoots and
leaves to sprout but optimism was soon dampened.
On 20 and 21 April and again on 27 and 28 April, the
mercury dropped below zero.  Véronique Sanders,
the general manager of Château Haut-Bailly in
Pessac-Léognan was out in the vineyards with her
team at 3 a.m. lighting fires during the second freeze
but for many owners, nature proved too powerful.
Some vineyards lost their entire crop and stood in
mourning for the rest of the growing season, a black
blot amid unscathed green vines. In total, 30 to 50
percent of the 2017 crop was wiped out.  However,
in the vineyards of the northern Médoc,
particularly those close to the moderating influence
of the languid Gironde estuary, there was little
damage, if any, and normal service resumed.
Warm, sunny conditions in May brought a quick
and even lowering and fruit set and the season ran
two weeks ahead of the usual schedule, which led to
an early harvest.  beginning as early as mid-August. Delmas had to
June
Even Bordeaux’s coolest couldn’t help but melt
under the stifling heat of June’s heatwave, which
stewed both producers and their wines at
exhibition Vinexpo. It was the third hottest June
since 1959 and while the monthly rainfall figures
suggest it was a wet month with nearly 200mm of
rain in total, the rains didn’t arrive until June 26.
By that time, vintners report that the vines were
starting to show water stress – both the winter and
spring were dry leading to a water deficit – and the
plants were in need of this timely drink.  rains.” Others weren’t so happy with their Merlot
Summer
July and August were dry but rather cooler than
usual. Jean-Philippe Delmas of Château Haut-Brion
remembers: “We had a very dry summer but cool
nights: It was impossible to have dinner outside
without a coat on. The sun was not very present
either especially in July which helped us keep the
freshness in the wines and helped us make great
whites as well as reds.”
“It was Thursday 27 April, end of the
afternoon. I’d just landed in New York.
My telephone rings. ‘The Bordeaux
vineyards have been hit by frost; just
like in 1991.’ My blood freezes. Panic
sets in. Had all our work in our
vineyards been destroyed? I cross my
fingers, hard. Very hard.”
Nicolas Glumineau, Chateau Pichon Longueville
Comtesse de Lalande
Harvest
It was an early harvest with picking for whites
cut his summer break to Italy short to return to the
vineyard. Just as it looked like Merlot was ripe for
the picking in early September, however, rains
arrived. Some growers rushed to pick the fruit to
avoid rot even if the fruit was not fully ripe while
others waited it out. Delmas revealed that they had
to harvest the Cabernet Franc in the rain, as it was
starting to rot on the vine. At Château Palmer in
Margaux, Thomas Duroux doesn’t consider 2017 a
challenging vintage for Merlot but notes that the
rain in September made the berries “a little bigger
than in previous vintages and gave very delicate
tannins. We did a little bit of saignée because of the
and Véronique Dausse, managing director of
Phélan Ségur explains: “We were a little
disappointed with the Merlot. We could feel the
dilution so we waited to harvest and, even then, we
weren’t happy enough. The second wine will
contain more Merlot this year and it has made a
great wine.”  Dry warm weather arrived on
September 20 and the Cabernet Sauvignon was
picked in fine conditions, concluding the harvest
two weeks earlier than in 2016. The early start,
however, made this one of the region’s most drawn
out harvests.
FUTURE ZINE   |  APRIL 2018
Digging Deeper
The wines are so approachable now but do they
have what it takes to go the long haul?
Wine producers claim that this is a vintage that has a
long life despite its friendliness.  “Restrained ripeness
with charm,” is how Christian Seely, managing
director of AXA Millésimes, which owns Pauillac’s
Château Pichon Baron (pictured above) and Pomerol’s
Petit Village, described 2017. “It's a very accessible
year but I still think it will age." There’s no doubting
that the very finest wines, particularly those from
the northern Médoc offer plenty of intensity,
freshness and plentiful tannins but on the whole, the
total phenolic content of the grapes is lower than in
recent vintages, reports Bordeaux University’s
Oenological Research Unit.  It also noted seeds were
sometimes insufficiently ripe, which might affect the
colour and stability of the wines in the future.  
What is all this talk about second generation fruit?
The dormant buds on a winter vine aren’t much to
look at but each contains primary and secondary
buds that contain all that’s needed to produce shoots,
leaves, flowers and, hopefully, grapes. In many cases,
only the primary bud grows. The secondary bud is a
backup system for the vine; normally, it grows only
when the primary bud or young shoot has been
damaged from freeze or frost in spring. This second
generation or second crop is less fruitful and, due to a
later start, the fruit does not mature until much later
and may not ripen at all. In 2017, some fine estates
used second generation fruit in their wines although
others deemed the resulting wines inferior and sold
them as bulk. Some vineyards were so badly frosted
that there was no second generation and the contrast
of funereal denuded vines against the verdant green
provided a constant reminder of the devastation
wrought by late April’s frosts.
Credit: Château Pichon Longueville Baron
Where are all the green pepper notes this year?
Warm weather in early July limited the formation of
the compound responsible for the green pepper
aroma in Cabernet Sauvignon so it’s all about fragrant
fruit and no vegetables this year. The success of this
late ripening variety combined with a rainy ripening
period for Merlot means you’re likely to see a higher
proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in Left Bank
blends. Véronique Dausse of Phélan-Ségur explains:
“We added a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend
this year. There was a particular plot that was
planted on gravel in 2011 and the first time we tasted
the wine blind in this vintage we said ‘wow’ but we
hesitated to use it because it is only six years old; we
usually wait 10 years for the grand vin. In the end, we
went for it because it was so good!”
The story was the same at Calon-Ségur and even on
the Right Bank, Cabernet Sauvignon has played a
greater role in this vintage: Pomerol’s Vieux Château
Certan planted Cabernet Sauvignon vines in 2012 and
wouldn’t normally use such young vines in the grand
vin but it was so fragrant, they couldn’t resist. It
makes up 5 percent of the 2017 blend and adds lift.
“The 2017 vintage has
exorcised the curse of the 7s”
Philippe Dhalluin, Château Mouton Rothschild
 FUTURE ZINE   |  APRIL 2018 19

In brief: key appellations

Saint-Emilion: Lesser vineyards on the sandy plains
were hit hard by the frost. Those on the slopes and
plateau were affected to varying degrees but the
resulting wines are aromatic, refreshing, and frequently
pretty. They might not be as impressive nor dense as the
2016s but are nevertheless joyful.
Pomerol: For those that escaped the frost the resulting
wines are full, fragrant and rich with silken, chocolatey
tannins. Fine acidity sews up the wines.
Pessac-Léognan: Sweetly fruited, fragrant wines but
often lean and mean on the finish although the Clarence
Dillon stable of properties and Haut-Bailly proved to be
exceptional exceptions. Excellent dry whites.
Margaux: A mixed bag: successful examples from the
usual suspects including Chateau Margaux, Palmer, and
co. but others can be hard and unfriendly, lacking the
silkiness associated with this appellation.
Saint-Julien: An up and down vintage with those closer
to the estuary having more success. Styles vary from the
sumptuous and seductive Ducru-Beaucaillou to the
powerful Léoville-Las-Cases and the precise Leoville
Poyferré.
Pauillac: There’s plenty to celebrate in Pauillac in 2017:
frost played a minor role in the growing season. It is not
the most powerful Pauillac vintage but the finest are
seriously classy, offering fragrance and density of fruit
without weight.
Saint-Estèphe: Largely spared during the April frosts,
expect sweet fruit, innate power, muscular but ripe
tannins, and mouthwatering freshness. Many of the
finest blends have a high proportion of Cabernet
Sauvignon.
FUTURE ZINE   |  APRIL 2018 19

Tales of the Unexpected

It was Didier Cuvelier’s (pictured right) last en
primeur campaign. The man at the helm of Léoville
Poyferré, Moulin Riche and Le Crock since 1979 has
decided to retire. He plans on playing a bit of golf
and whizzing around on a mountain bike (fitted
with an electric motor);
Just quietly, I received my first ‘you’re not welcome
at our château’ message following the publication of
my 2016 vintage scores. It would appear that a score
that doesn’t start with a nine is risible.  Following
three faintly ridiculous phone conversations, I
expressed delight that they cared what I thought,
offered to retaste the wine, as well as visit the estate
the next time I was in Bordeaux to get to know them
and the wines better. My peacemaking suggestions
have yet to be accepted. I was able to taste the wine
this year (which does contain a nine) and shan’t be
naming names but this behaviour is absolutely
absurd.  I can confirm, however, that I am not the
only wine journalist to have been banned from Credit: Pierre Grenet
tasting a wine this year after a single score so
displeased the owner.

There are several resident soft toys in the Petrus

cellar including a bulldog (pictured left) gifted by
British wine merchant Justerini & Brooks. The idea
of a vintage mascot started with a pink Duracell
bunny and the concept has taken on a life of its own
with a golden labrador, Corsican bear and panda
now surveilling the winery;
Bruno Borie, the top dog at Ducru-Beaucaillou has
four English setters and his signature dish is
woodcock, foie gras and truffle terrine;
 
Château Margaux’s white wine Pavillon Blanc will
be sealed under Diam corks from 2017. Both the red
and the white will come in an almost black bottle.
 FUTURE ZINE  |  APRIL 2018

LOOKING
BACK
1991 1945
“When Bordeaux went to bed on the 20th of April In the aftermath of the 1991 frost, contemporaries also
spring was in the air…When Bordeaux woke up on the looked back to previous frosts. Drawing on diary entries
21st of April the sky was blue and the ground was written by the late Bordeaux wine merchant Hugues
white. Stunned, the shoots were still green, but by Lawton, world events during the frosted vintage of
lunch time they were limp and by the evening they 1945 make the tensions between Emmanuel Macron
withered.” This is how Bordeaux negociant Peter A. and transport unions in 2017 seem small fry.
Sichel remembered the frost of 1991, which wiped out
large parts of Bordeaux’s vineyards. In Maison Sichel’s 30 April 1945: “Cold weather. Mussolini has been shot.”
annual report on the vintage in March 1992, Sichel 2 May: “Minus 2˚ this morning…there is much damage.
noted that the season was unkind: flowering was The death of Hitler has been announced, following
dragged out and irregular. August was the hottest on closely that of Mussolini. It’s the collapse of the Axis.”
record with local heavy storms during the ripening 3 May: “The damage caused by the frost is confirmed.
period and rain falling at the end of September “which The ‘palus’ of the Medoc are particularly badly hit, as
marked the start of the annual dilemma of ‘to start are the properties close to the woods. The vineyards
or not to start [picking].’” Despite technological advances close to the river are less damaged. Blaye and Bourg are
in the past 26 years, nature continues to throw the partly affected. The death of Hitler has been officially
same dilemmas at wine producers on an annual basis. announced. Berlin  has been taken by the Russians. The
whole of the German army has capitulated. The end is
It is also interesting to read that many of the market near.”
issues facing Bordeaux in 2017 were topical in 1991.
“Ever since 1984, with the possible exception of 1986,
the market has felt that the days of sales en primeur
were numbered, but with each new vintage there is
frenzied rush of activity…once the rush of the en
primeur activity is exhausted, the market, except for
first growths, becomes desperately quiet.” He even
noted that the British “demonstrated its total disregard
for the principles of the Common Market” by increasing
excise duties.  That “disregard” is unfortunately set to
come to its ultimate conclusion in 2019.
FUTURE ZINE  |  APRIL 2018

BDX V17

THE 
WINES
Cellar, Château Le Tertre Rôtebouef

This year's reviews for Future Zine constitute the 122 wines that gained a score of 90 or more points, and tasting
notes have been included for the top 50 wines. The scores and reviews for all 400+ wines tasted  during the
campaign are available at www.rebeccagibb.com.
Reviewed wines were all barrel samples tasted during en primeur week in April 2018.
A wine that scores 95 or more is considered outstanding, showing incredible character, complexity and longevity. If
a wine scores between 93 and 95 points it will be a profound wine with complexity and long length. In fact, anything
over 90 points is, in my opinion, fantastic. These wines offer real excellence in their category and I wouldn’t hesitate
to recommend buying these wines, price dependent.
N.B. Due to time constraints or lack of availability I was unable to taste the following wines: Angelus, Pontet-Canet,
Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Yquem. Forgive me. There are worse sins.
BDX V17 FUTURE ZINE  |  APRIL 2018

THE 98-100
Chateau Margaux Pavillon Blanc, Bordeaux
This 100% Sauvignon Blanc starts its vinification in tank before being moved to barrel (25%
WINES new). Following the fermentation, there's regular batonnage in barrel for 9 months providing
a rich, concentrated white with wonderful creamy texture. Full of complexity: lemon, apple,
wonderfully integrated oak and a vibrant elderflower character.Interminable length. The
best Sauvignon Blanc I've ever tasted? Quite possibly.

Chateau Ausone,  Saint-Emilion

97 From vines with an average age of more than 50 years old and some more than a century, this
is a blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. Yields were just 35 hl/ha. A delicate wine
offering huge density of fragrant blackberry fruit, violets, liquorice on the compact core.
Fresh and focused, it is very pretty and with time the woody notes of oak that are overlaying
the fruit at this early stage, will soften. Fine chalky tannins. An almost Chambolle-esque
Ausone.

Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion,  Pessac-Leognan

97 While sweet on entry and already alluring, there is much in the core of this wine that needs
time to reveal itself. It is dark and round but very elegant with a mass of mouthcoating cocoa
powder-like tannins that provide a blanket to wrap around the suave fruit, imbuing this with
the potential for long life. Fresh with lots of energy.

Chateau Latour, Pauillac

96-98 This 92% Cabernet, 8% Merlot and a tiny drop of Petit Verdot has produced a deeply coloured,
richly aromatic wine. It is mouthfilling, caressing the palate with structured tannins that coat
the mouth with a very fine texture. It retains a sense of lightness despite the density of fruit.
Very complete, with a haunting scent of flowers and black fruit lingering long on the palate.
Sadly it ain't available en primeur so you'll have to wait until Latour deems it ready.

Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol

96+ Hugely relaxing and meditative, expansive and silken: this is all about sumptuous texture
with rich tannins that coat the palate with a cocoa powder-like texture. There's masses of
density here and lots of concentration.  On the finish it is fine and drawn out, offering just the
right amount of freshness. Long length with scents of dried herbs, florals, blackberry fruit and
a touch of nutmeg spice lingering.

Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol

96+ This year's blend is 81% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc with a rather rare 5% Cabernet
Sauvignon from vines planted in 2012. Rich, sweetly fruited and sumptuous. I had to wrap a
football as a gift (fun!) for my 11-year-old nephew's birthday the week before attending en
primeur and this wine reminds me of the round ball wrapped up with fine tannins and tied
together with a ribbon of acidity. Lovely appetising tannic texture, and an almost chocolate
fondant-like softness on the mid palate. While texturally gorgeous, there is also a wonderful
fragrance of violets, plum and blackberry fruit with fully integrated oak.
BDX V17 FUTURE ZINE  |  APRIL 2018

THE 96
Chateau Canon, Saint-Emilion
This Chanel-owned Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe 'A' is richly aromatic offering sweet

WINES
ripe raspberry and blackberry fruit in a broody core; there's spice and floral characters that
come from the Cabernet Franc. Elegant and supple, this provides great density of fruit without
weight nor heaviness. Mouthcoating chalky tannins and a fine line of acidity pulls this
through to a precise conclusion. A delight.

Le Pin, Pomerol
96 Seamless and suave, this year's offering from Le Pin is a beautifully textural wine. Huge
concentration of fruit with very fine tannin. Gorgeously perfumed with fresh berry flavours
and floral characters, it is expressive and sumptuous in the mouth with long length.

Les Champs Libres,  Bordeaux

96 This is not your average Sauvignon Blanc: expansive with incredibly chalky flavours. The
wine starts its fermentation in tank and is then moved into barrels. The wines stay in
Burgundy barrels and receive lots of lees contact providing texture and richness on the palate.
The aromas are reminscent of nectarines, elderflowers and green gauge plums. This is hugely
complex, with full body and lots of intensity. Fresh and textural.

La Clarte de Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan

96 31% Sauvignon, 69% Semillon. A super lemony and grapefruit inspired wine with some
chamomile flavours. Wonderfully expansive on the mid palate, bringing a full-bodied
sensation but there's an energy to this wine and freshness that brings tension and linearity.

Chateau  La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac-Leognan 

96 Rich and expansive . There's a lovely waxy character to this wine with honeysuckle and
chamomile. What a lovely full bodied yet deft  and seamless wine.

Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac

96 Floral and fragrant, this is already super elegant, alluring and silky. Gorgeously textured with
sumptuous mouthcoating tannins that coat the palate with texture reminiscent of licking
stones. This offers huge density without weight and fills the mouth with fragrance. It is
already delicious but has the concentration and framework to be wonderful for 15 years plus.

Chateau Calon Segur, Saint-Estephe

96 At this early stage there's definite vanilla overtones derived from 20 months in new French
oak barrels but that doesn't detract from the overall impression. There is a wonderful
intensity to the wine, offering richness without heaviness. 

Chateau Leoville-Las Cases, Saint-Julien

95-97
This is a wine that has depth and complex layers that are yet to reveal themselves. Yes, there's
blackberry fruit, cassis and pencil lead but there's far more than fruit. Abundant structured
tannins that are delightfully textured with a very fine grain and mouthwatering freshness. A
very complete wine that isn't upfront, rich and obvious, making you want to explore its
mysteries. One of my favourite wines of the vintage.
BDX V17 FUTURE ZINE  |  APRIL 2018

THE 95
Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan
This is wonderfully dense and meditative in the mouth, it almost melts like a fondant but isn't

WINES heavy nor overly rich.There's a lovely freshness of acidity on the finish but the alcohol is a
touch warming. It has a firm and powerful tannic structure that will need bottle age to soften
(Blend: 53% Merlot, 6.3% Cabernet Franc, 40.7% Cabernet Sauvignon).

Petrus, Pomerol
95 This is a hugely floral expression from Petrus. Full bodied and plush it is soft, almost creamy,
and has a very relaxed expression in the mouth. Rich and sweetly fruited, low yields (35hl/ha)
contribute to intense concentration. Fine, resolved tannins provide structure. Personally, I
would like more freshness nevertheless very impressive.

Chateau Figeac, Saint-Emilion

95 This 43% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc blend is very silken, elegant,
ripe and totally delicious. It is fragrant offering fabulous texture without being rich and very
fine chalky tannin. The high level of Cabernet Sauvignon has given this real precision.

Chateau Cheval Blanc,  Saint-Emilion

95 Frost wiped out the 2017 crop on three old vine parcels just outside of the chateau - blocks 9A,
11A and 14: here the vineyard dips slightly and the frost stagnated leading to a small harvest
of just 50,000 bottles. The blend is 30% Cab Franc, 56% Merlot and, an usually high proportion
of Cabernet Sauvignon percentage at 22%. Technical director Pierre-Olivier Clouet explained
that story of the vintage for them was the frost so they had to accept that the proportions of
the wine would not be the same and the profile of the wine would be slightly atypical. In spite
of the challenges, this is a very successful wine: bags of concentration without richness nor
heaviness. A perfumed style with a dark core of fruit, florals, and an attractive herbal
element. Rich finely textured tannins coat the palate. Bright acidity brings a thread that pulls
this along at a good pace and keeps the flavours lingering long.

Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac-Leognan

95 Full bodied and silken (56% Sauvignon, 44% Semillon) there is a herbal element and limey
character. A wonderfully buxom mid palate with tension on the finish tying this wine up
with a lovely minerality.

Chateau Palmer, Margaux

95 Rich and velvety, this is an expansive, textural wine with  cherry fruit, florals and dark
chocolate flavours. Abundant tannin coats the mouth with tannic grip to provide sinew and
pull the wine through from start to finish.With just 13.2% alcohol it retains an elegance
despite its expansiveness.

Chateau Cos d’Estournel Blanc, Bordeaux

95 Lots of energy and power with intensity - that'll be the low concentration from old vines.
Saline, tight mineral finish. Barrel fermented with just 6 percent new oak, there's lovely
integration: delicate vanilla tones combine with apple, pear and citrus fruit. Lees stirring
brings additional texture. The blend is 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon.
BDX V17 FUTURE ZINE  |  APRIL 2018

THE 95
Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac
This vintage offers both expansion and elegance in a mid-weight package. While it may not be

WINES
as intense as some examples, it contains innate power in the mid palate.  Abundant fine
graphite-like tannins. Very sleek, serious and classy with lovely sinew on the finish. Huge
length.

Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol

94 Rich and mouthfilling yet restrained and elegant. This wine displays a prettiness and lightness
of touch with fragrant blackberry fruit, floral notes and dried herbs.There's a fine almost chalky
tannic quality with a line of acidity and modest alcohol (13.5%). Nuanced and graceful.

Chateau Margaux, Margaux

94-96 This 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot blend
offers perfume and a silken yet focused core of raspberry, blackberry and floral fruit. The finish
is fresh with tannins that provide grip and a fine stone licking character. It is already accessible
with fragrance filling the mouth long after spitting.

Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien

94-96 Richness meets freshness in this 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot blend. Rich and juicy
with raspberry and cassis. Lovely tannins in abundance that coat the palate. It is suave, with a
lot of innate complexity that will come out in time.  

Chateau Mouton Rothschild Aile d’Argent, Bordeaux

94-96 This dry white blend brings 53% Sauvignon, 46% Semillon and 1% Muscadelle. The result is rich,
expansive and creamy. There's an almost sweetly fruited palate, offering grass and even
passionfruit with a sense of tension on the fine, fragrant finish.

Clos Fourtet, Saint-Emilion

94 Pure and dense on the nose, there's a lot going on here from dark blackberry fruit to pencil lead.
It is soft and expansive without being heavy, offering delectable texture. The tannins are
mouthcoating and resolved although there is no mistaking they are here in abundance
providing a lovely veil for the fruit and imbuing this wine with longevity.

Chateau Cos d'Estournel, Saint-Estephe

94 Expansive and opulent but not fat, this is a touch oaky at this early stage but there's lovely
fragrance: florals and spice. You'll find a sense of freshness and energy here with abundant
tannin that provides the welcome structural framework that you expect from this part of the
Haut-Medoc.

Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron, Pauillac

94 Fragrant, elegant and full bodied with plenty of freshness. This 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21%
Merlot blend offers abundant tannins that coat the palate with cocoa powder. Sumptuous and
almost relaxed in the mouth, it does quite match the density of the '16 nor '15 but it is a a very
Pauillac wine offering aristocracy with innate power. Interestingly, Pichon Baron used to make
380,000 bottles of its grand vin but that now stands at 170,000. From the turn of the century
the decision was made to reduce the quantity of the first wine and the volumes of second wine -
of which there are two at Pichon Baron - increased.
BDX V17 FUTURE ZINE  |  APRIL 2018

THE 94
Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac
Fleshy on entry and very mellifluous on the palate, the conclusion is firmly tannic, tight and

WINES
grippy, even slightly austere. The medium-long finish is full of liquorice and dark
blackcurrant fruit but there seems to be a slight hollowness on the mid palate, which left me
feeling rather disappointed after tasting. (96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.5% Merlot and 0.5%
Cabernet Franc)

Chateau Lynch-Bages , Pauillac

93-95 Wonderfully textured, remaining elegant but never heading into heaviness. Fragrant
blackcurrant fruit, spice, and florals fill this balanced and fluid wine with a fine acid sinew
that acts like a needle and thread. There are plentiful tannins that are beautifully
mouthcoating.(70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot).

Chateau Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Leognan

93+ A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot
makes this a fairly classic composition for Haut-Bailly. Sweet dark berry/cassis fruits with a
very subtle mint high note. In the mouth, it is elegant and mellifluous with not a hair out of
place. The 50% new oak is well integrated. There's an abundance of tannin that coat the palate
with the refined wet stone tannin that typically comes from Haut-Bailly and a fine line of
acidity providing an appetising conclusion.

Chateau Margaux Pavillon Rouge, Margaux

93 This is a blend of 76% Cabernet, 17% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and produces
a highly scented, super elegant wine with very fine tannin structure. It is incredily pure and
focused with cassis and floral aromatics. The tannins are sinewy but fine providing grip and
line through the long finish.

Chateau Trotanoy, Pomerol

93 Expansive and palate caressing, this 90% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc blend fills the mouth
with red and blue fruit joy. It retains a cool edge to its fruit expression. While high in
concentration it retains a lightness on its feet, and could  never be called heavy. There's a huge
mass of tannins but they are refined and mouthcoating with a fine line of acidity providing
refreshment on the finish.

Cheval Blanc Le  Petit Cheval, Saint-Emilion

93 An elegant wine that expands in the mouth. Having lost 30% of the total crop on the nights of
27/28 April, there were just 4500 bottles produced versus 12-15,000 normally. The result is
piquant, fresh and lifted,with blackberry fruit, floral and herbal elements. Ripe, offering
sweetness and a svelte texture. N.B. Le Petit Cheval is always a barrel selection not a parcel
selection. 

Chateau Pavie, Saint-Emilion

93 Rich, sweetly fruited, impressive and bold on entry. Expect blackberry, violet and floral
flavours, which abound in this almost thick in texture blend of 60% Merlot, 22% Cabernet
Franc, and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. An abundance of powerful structured tannins with fine
chalky texture. Liberal oak gives a hint of char on the long finish. It is a style that is rich and
 bold with lots of fruit and oak but it is rather sweet and big for my personal taste.
BDX V17 FUTURE ZINE  |  APRIL 2018

THE 93
Chateau Monbusquet Blanc, Bordeaux
This 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sauvignon Gris, 5% Semillon and 5% Muscadelle blend is

WINES
fermented in 50% new oak and 50% used barrels for six months. Richly aromatic: orange, pink
grapefruit on top of nectarine and citrussy fruit. Lively with nice weight on the mid palate
92 from lees stirring. A gourmand textural wine with nice roundness and weight. 4000 bottles
produced.

Chateau Rahoul Blanc , Graves

93 Slightly reductive on the nose, there's grass, blackcurrant bud and elderflower flavours.
Round and complete with a lovely creamy, silken texture on the mid palate. Fresh acidity
provides a fine line on the blackcurranty finish.

Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc, Pessac-Leognan

93 Oyster shell, citrus and elderflower combine in this medium bodied Sauvignon/Semillon
blend. Supple and silken on the palate with good concentration of fruit. Mouthwatering, fresh
finish leaves the palate cleansed with nice grip and minerality providing texture and length. 

Chateau Trotte Vieille, Saint-Emilion

93 An attractive perfumed blackberry and spicy nose. It is soft on the mid palate and already
approachable with a come hither mid palate that retains an aura of elegance. The tannins are
mouthcoating and perfectly resolved with a fine line of fresh acidity. A wine that the French
would call equilibré. I call it understated and harmonious and I rather like it.

Chateau Valandraud, Saint-Emilion

93 Intense and dense with lots of fruit intensity in a compact core. It is really ambitious, powerful
and coulis-like in its concentration. I might like to see a dash more freshness on the finish but
it it is nevertheless complex and long with good ageing potential.

Chateau Gruaud Larose, Saint-Julien

93 Silken and fragrant, this wine caresses the palate, the tannins building and coating the palate
on the medium-long finish, providing a gourmandise conclusion. There's 18 months in 80%
new barrels but you wouldn't know it.

Chateau La Tour Blanche, Sauternes

93 Rich and full but retains an element of focus and definition providing a sense of freshness on
the finish which is welcome. Delicately botrytised.

La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan

93  Restrained and elegant with lovely clarity of fruit: fresh blackberry and spice. Elegant with
lots of concentration and silky texture but without any sense of heaviness that has been seen
so widely in this vintage. Very fine tannin with precision and long length. Very classy indeed.
(49% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon).

Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan

93 Richness on entry, offering dense ripe blackberry, cassis fruit and spice.  While the mid palate
expands there's  lovely mouthwatering freshness and tension on the finish. Fine -grained
tannin coats the palate. Medium-long length. (55% Merlot, 5.3% Cabernet Franc, 38% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 1.7% Petit Verdot).
BDX V17 FUTURE ZINE  |  APRIL 2018

THE 93
Chateau Lalande-Borie, Saint-Julien
Although 50% of the production was frosted, this two-thirds Merlot, one-third Cabernet

WINES
Sauvignon blend is ripe and supple, providing lovely texture in a suave, rounded mould. Fine
line with very fine mouthcoating tannins. Very well handled.

Chateau Leoville-Poyferre, Saint-Julien

93 An elegant and restrained expression of the vintage. While it offers the juicy sweet raspberry
and blackberry fruit that is common of the fragrance of the vintage, this is much more finely
tuned and precise with the combination of fine acidity and taut tannin providing a sinewy
line. They have captured the best of the vintage without going big. Long length.

Chateau Montrose,  Saint-Estephe

93 There were 56 ha organically run in 2017 and by 2019/20 this 90 ha property will be fully
organic. Rich and powerful, full bodied with a lot of density on the mid palate. Liquorice, dark
cherry and blackcurrant flavours abound. The tannins are resolved but this is Saint-Estephe
so it is naturally muscular and robustly structured. Clearly has what it takes to go the long
term (76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot).

Chateau Troplong-Mondot, Saint-Emilion

92-94 Ripe and rich, slightly leafy on the nose but the palate is sumptuous, thick like a velvet
curtain. There is an abundance of tannins but they coat the palate providing structure to the
richness of fruit and full body so that it isn't heavy. Under the direction of Aymeric de
Gironde (formerly of Cos d'Estournel) expect a little more restraint with earlier picking, more
delicate extraction and less new oak influence.  The blend is 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc.

Chateau Quintus
92+ Chateau Rauzan-Segla

Chateau Beausejour Chateau Latour-Martillac Blanc

92 Chateau Beychevelle 92 Chateau Lynch-Bages Blanc
Chateau Brane-Cantenac
Chateau Calon Segur Le Marquis de Calon Segur
Chateau Canon-La-Gaffelière
Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou La Croix
Chateau Duhart Milon
Chateau Ferran
Chateau Gazin
Chateau Haut Batailley
Chateau Larcis Ducasse
Chateau Mouton Rothschild Le Petit Mouton
Chateau Palmer Alter Ego
Chateau Potensac
Les Pensees de Lafleur
BDX V17 FUTURE ZINE  |  APRIL 2018

THE
Chateau Belair Monange Chateau Ferrande Blanc
91 Chateau Branaire-Ducru 91 Chateau Puygeraud Blanc
Chateau Capbern
WINES Chateau Clerc Milon
Chateau Cos d'Estournel Pagodes de Cos
Chateau d’Armailhac
Chateau La Croix de Gay
Chateau La Fleur Petrus
Chateau Lafite Rothschild Carruades de Lafite
Chateau Latour Les Forts de Latour
Chateau Nenin
Chateau Pavie Aromes de Pavie
Chateau Pavie Macquin
Chateau Phelan-Segur
Chateau Pichon Baron Les Griffons
Chateau Quinault L'Enclos
Chateau Saint-Pierre
Clos du Marquis
L'If
La Petite Eglise

Chateau Ausone Chapelle d'Ausone Chateau Couhins

90 Chateau Balestard La Tonnelle 90 Chateau de Cruzeau
Chateau Bellevue Mondotte Chateau Grand Village Blanc
Chateau Cantemerle Chateau Lespault-Martillac Blanc
Chateau Carbonnieux Chateau Pape Clément Blanc
Chateau Clinet Chateau Picque Caillou Blanc
Chateau Gloria Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
Chateau L'Evangile
Chateau La Lagune
Chateau Lagrange Les Fiefs de Lagrange
Chateau Le Pape
Chateau Léoville Barton
Chateau Leoville Las Cases Le Petit Lion du Marquis de Las Cases
Chateau Lynch-Bages Echo de Lynch-Bages
Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere
Chateau Pichon Lalande Reserve de la Comtesse
Chateau Plince
Chateau Potensac La Chapelle
Chateau Quintus Le Dragon
Chateau Talbot
Chateau Tronquoy Lalande
Domaine de Chevalier
L'Eglise Clinet
FUTURE ZINE | APRIL 2018

REBECCA
GIBB MW
ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Rebecca is a highly-respected wine journalist and

founder of The Drinks Project, a wine and spirits-
based consultancy firm. A Master of Wine since
2015, Rebecca graduated top of her class and was
also awarded the Madame Bollinger medal for
outstanding tasting ability.
 Currently a freelance journalist writing for titles
including Decanter, Wine Business International
and World of Fine Wine, Rebecca is the former wine
editor of luxury title Le Pan; she also spent three
years working as the editor of Wine-Searcher in
New Zealand.
Rebecca has established herself as a familiar face in
Bordeaux in recent years,  and is excited to  follow
the region's evolution in the coming decades.
Contact: rebecca@rebeccagibb.com

@rebeccagibb