Professional Documents
Culture Documents
IN THE NORTHEAST
THE UNIVERSITY OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK
Chief of Staff
Counsel and Deputy Commissioner for Legal Affairs
KATHY A. AHEARN
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PERISHABLE MATERIAL CULTURE
IN THE NORTHEAST
Edited by
PENELOPE BALLARD DROOKER
iii
© The New York State Education Department, Albany, New York 12230
Published 2004
ISBN: 1-55557-215-4
ISSN: 0278-3355
iv
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Table of Contents v
LIST OF FIGURES
List of Tables ix
INTRODUCTION:
CHAPTER 1
Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © by
the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
Museum, scoured the entire archaeological col- ways at the upper Susquehanna Valley Russ site.
lection, searching for exhibit-quality artifacts On display are actual artifacts. All are of stone.
and good models for objects to be replicated for Although a variety of tools and weapons are rep-
a series of life-sized dioramas. In his large note- resented, including spear points, knives, drills,
book inventorying and describing likely exam- scrapers, hammerstones, netsinkers, and pestles,
ples, fewer than four pages out of 200 contain this is surely a skewed portrayal of the realities
entries for likely specimens fashioned from per- of life in eastern New York 8,000 years ago.
ishable materials. The point, of course, is that it takes a con-
In the Museum’s Paleoindian2 life group scious effort to reconstruct the richness of tradi-
(Figure 1.1), set at the West Athens Hill quarry tional material culture in the Northeast, and,
site in Greene County, New York, ethnographic inevitably, much will be missed due to lack of
analogy was utilized extensively in depicting the historical analogy or easily decipherable archae-
non-lithic material culture. Skin clothing, for ological evidence. Therefore, it is very important
example, is modelled upon historical examples for archaeologists to pay attention to the frag-
from the Arctic. ments of perishable material culture that do hap-
The Late Archaic life group (Figure 1.2a,b) is pen to survive.
set at the Lamoka Lake site in Schuyler County. In this broad-brush introduction to the chap-
Here, a conscious effort was expended to show ters that follow, I review some of the important
perishable material culture. Reproductions and means by which evidence for perishable materi-
depictions of bags, mats, wooden utensils, cloth- al culture is preserved, using examples mainly
ing, harpoons, fishing nets and lines, a weir, from in and around New York State plus some
dugout canoes, fish-drying racks, and of course recently published or not widely known cases
the dwelling, highlight the importance of organ- from other areas of the Northeast (Figure 1.3).
ic materials in everyday life. For this exhibit, Although rare in the Northeast, actual preserva-
much data came from secondary evidence such tion of organic remains does occur through a
as woodworking tools and thousands of variety of methods, providing some primary evi-
netsinkers found at the site. dence for the utilization of perishable materials.
Between these two dioramas in the Museum Most evidence, however, is secondary, deduced
is a purely archaeological exhibit (not illustrat- from clues such as impressions of cordage on
ed), representing Early to Middle Archaic life- pottery, or tools such as stone gouges and bone
2 Penelope B. Drooker
Figure 1.2. Details of New York State Museum diora-
ma depicting a Late Archaic village at the Lamoka
Lake archaeological site, Schuyler County. Top:
Exterior scene. Bottom: Interior scene.
PRESERVATION OF PRIMARY
EVIDENCE
ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS
DETERRING DETERIORATION
very important windows on the past. weirs at the Sebasticook facility might have
Probably the best-known wet sites in the required substantial effort and significant group
Northeast are previous locations of fish weirs. cooperation (Petersen et al. 1994:216-217). In
Just a decade ago, James Petersen and colleagues contrast, Elena Décima and Dena Dincauze con-
mapped and analyzed a wooden fish weir com- clude that the weirs constructed and utilized in
plex at Sebasticook Lake in central Maine that Boston’s Back Bay over a period of approximate-
was utilized during the Late Archaic and ly 1,000 years during the Late Archaic were
Woodland periods (Petersen et al. 1994). With “small, short-lived, uncomplicated tidal opera-
components dating as early as 5080 + 90 B.P. tions” (Décima and Dincauze 1998:159).
(uncalibrated), it is possibly the earliest radiocar- Dryness figured importantly in the preserva-
bon-dated fish weir in North America. Only two tion of an extremely varied hunting and domes-
other well-mapped and directly dated wooden tic assemblage at Sheep Rock Shelter in central
fish weirs are known from the Northeast, the Pennsylvania (Conway and Moser 1967;
Boylston Street weir in Massachusetts and the Hardenbergh 1967; Kent 1984:Figs. 43, 44, 46;
Atherley Narrows weir in Ontario (Décima and Michels 1994; Michels and Dutt 1968; Michels
Dincauze 1998; Dincauze and Décima 2002; and Smith 1967; Willey 1968, 1974). From one
Johnson 1942, 1949; Johnston and Cassavoy dry section of the shelter were recovered numer-
1978). Based in part on ethnographic analogies, ous pieces of fire drills, self-tipped arrow frag-
Petersen and colleagues hypothesize that the ments, a fletched portion of an arrow, a wooden
construction, maintenance, and utilization of awl, leather thongs, pieces of perforated and
4 Penelope B. Drooker
fringed leather, moccasin fragments, a leather and compound fishhooks made from hawthorne
bag, fur fragments, feathers, a great variety of spines attached together with cordage (see also
plied and braided cordage, wider plaited strips 278-279, 290).
interpreted as possible pack straps, fragments of Examples of carbonized specimens curated
knotted netting, three snares, two types of at the New York State Museum include frag-
twined pliable fabrics, a woven sandal fragment, ments of cordage from Middle Woodland and
bark-strip matting or basket fragments, and a Late Woodland sites (e.g., Drooker 1996b; Funk
bark container mended with cordage. The mid- and Kuhn 2001), twined fabrics, bark basketry
den from which they came was not only protect- and matting (e.g., Funk and Kuhn 2001), and
ed by the rock overhang but sealed with a thick wooden spoons and bowls. Effigy faces from late
layer of sheep dung — an unusual and fortu- prehistoric-protohistoric wooden vessels (e.g.,
itous circumstance. Grass-filled depressions, NYSM Cat. No. 35102, from the 17th-century
identified as beds, also were preserved. Marsh site)3 echo the much better known exam-
Although materials from the shelter date as far ples from contemporaneous pottery vessels (e.g.,
back as Early Archaic, it is believed that the per- Wray et al. 1987:Fig. 3-35).
ishables are mainly Late Woodland to Barry Kent notes a number of important
Protohistoric. carbonized artifacts from Pennsylvania sites,
including a “charred cord-wrapped potter’s
CARBONIZATION paddle” from the McFate site in the southwest-
ern part of the state (Kent 1984:184, Fig. 47).
Charring, or carbonization, which inhibits Many artifacts preserved in this way are mun-
organic breakdown, is an important method of dane, workaday tools and objects that are less
preservation for wood and fiber artifacts, just as likely to be deposited as grave goods and thus
it is for foodstuffs such as corn kernels. Charred preserved by contact with metal (see below).
specimens typically are brittle and extremely
fragile, and must be handled with great care. ASSOCIATION WITH METAL
One very early example is a piece of plied
cordage from the Transitional Archaic Millbury Association with metal is extremely impor-
III site in Worcester County, Massachusetts tant in preserving or fossilizing organic materi-
(Largy and Leveillee 1995; Leveillee 2002:72). It als in archaeological contexts. Most typically
came from a feature dated to 3410 + 100 B.P. (B- these are found with burials, where metal tools,
56226), making it the earliest extant Archaic fiber ornaments, or ceremonial objects were deposited
artifact from New England. in contact with leather or fiber bags, clothing, or
William Ritchie illustrated several car- shrouds.4 Metal beads and ornaments frequently
bonized specimens in The Archaeology of New preserve the cords or thongs on which they were
York State (1980). Plate 67 in that book is a photo- strung or the fabric or leather to which they were
graph of a fragment of knotted netting taken attached.
from a large but fragile carbonized fish net with Perhaps the oldest Northeastern examples
attached stone netsinkers that came from the are fossilized fragments of two Late Archaic
Early Woodland Morrow site in Ontario County. twined fabrics from the Hartford Cemetery site
From the same site came carbonized fragments in Maine, preserved as pyrite pseudomorphs;
of basketry (Ritchie 1980:Pl. 70). An in situ cre- that is, metal corrosion products that replicate
mation at the White site, Chenago County, left a the shape of an object (see Definitions). Malinda
charred fragment of twined fabric, perhaps from Blustain and colleagues interpreted the fabrics as
a shroud (Ritchie 1980:259, Pl. 89). Plate 93 fragments of bags containing fire-starting kits
(Ritchie 1980) provides drawings of carbonized (Blustain et al. 1999). Preserved layers of grass
artifacts from the Late Woodland Owasco Castle and hide also were found with one of the pyrites.
Creek site near Binghamton, including two frag- One layer of skin, with fur on one side that
ments of twined fabrics, a trot line for fishing, allowed it to be identified as from a small mam-
6 Penelope B. Drooker
Figure 1.4. Two fragments of close-twined fabrics preserved by proximity to metal, provenience unknown
(NYSM Cat. No. 74475). Note two selvages sewn together in coarser piece.
Harper 1956:40-51; Whitehead 1993). Two metal and the New York State Museum collections
daggers carried the remains of twined sheaths include a twined bag from the late-17th-century
(Whitehead 1993:69, 115, Fig. 37). Later burial Seneca Boughton Hill site and another from an
sites with even higher concentrations of metal early-17th-century site in the Seneca sequence,
objects, such as the well-known Neutral Tram (Drooker 1996d, 1996g). A number of pub-
Grimsby cemetery site in Ontario and 17th-cen- lished examples from Seneca and Erie sites in
tury Susquehannock sites in Pennsylvania, also western New York have been interpreted as
preserved a remarkable range of fiber, bark, and medicine bags or dream bundles (e.g., Tooker
wood artifacts (Kent 1984:179-193; Kenyon and White 1964; White 1967:15-16; Wray et al.
1982). 1987:129; Wray et al. 1991:135-140). Such inter-
Quite a few leather pouches and twined bags pretations are strengthened by the presence of
have survived from this period because they items such as worked fruit stones interpreted as
contained metal objects, such as published dice (Tooker and White 1964:1-2) that probably
examples from the late-16th – early 17th-century would not have survived if metal had not been
Seneca Tram and Cameron sites (Wray et al. present.
1991:130, 135-140, 332-334). The Rochester Some remarkable leather objects decorated
Museum and Science Center also curates exam- with brass “clips” have come from the late 17th-
ples from later Seneca settlements, such as the century Seneca Dann, Rochester Junction, and
mid-17th-century Dann site (Cat. No. 665/28), Boughton Hill sites, which overlap in time. The
8 Penelope B. Drooker
ments were of animal fibers (wool and silk) or above with respect to fossilized Late Archaic fab-
leather. The few whole garments that survived rics from the Hartford Cemetery site in Maine
tended to be worn in layers, or folded or (Blustain et al. 1999). Many of the Hopewell fab-
bunched up in the coffin rather than worn; the rics discussed by Virginia Wimberly in Chapter 5
interior of such a bundle would be protected are in the form of pseudomorphs, as are a num-
from immediate direct exposure to soil condi- ber of the textiles from three 17th-18th century
tions promoting deterioration. New England sites described in Chapter 9 by
The rare historical example of a late-17th- Margaret Ordoñez and Linda Welters.
century twined bag from New England dis-
cussed in Chapter 11 should bring home the con- IMPRESSIONS, MOLDS, AND CASTS OF
trast between archaeological fragments and OBJECTS
above-ground curation of perishable objects in
the Northeast. Impressions of basketry, fabric, and cordage
pressed into pottery or unfired clay can be used
SECONDARY EVIDENCE as molds to produce three-dimensional casts of
one surface of the original organic object (Figure
Almost all the artifacts discussed above were 1.5) from clay, rubber, or other materials
actual organic objects, providing primary evi- (Drooker 1992, 2001a; Rachlin 1955).
dence of the many ways in which perishable Occasionally, casts of fabrics and basketry are
materials were utilized in the Northeast over the produced naturally, although such products are
centuries. In addition, secondary evidence for much better known from paleontological speci-
the previous existence of perishable material cul- mens.
ture sometimes is available (if you know where I have already mentioned the complex fab-
to look for it), and can be used to reconstruct or rics preserved by contact with copper at the
deduce the presence of vanished objects. Early Woodland Boucher site in northwestern
Secondary evidence for artifacts of organic Vermont. That site also produced fabric impres-
materials includes, among other things, mineral- sions on pottery, including some of the same
ization and pseudomorphs, which provide fos- cloth structures used to make the burial fabrics
silized replications of the original; impressions (Heckenberger et al. 1996:69). Kathryn Browning
on pottery and other materials; stains on non- has reconstructed twined fabric types from
organic artifacts or in the soil; characteristics and impressions on pottery from Long Island
patterns of disposition of non-perishable objects (Browning 1974). At the Pictou site in Nova
associated with organic artifacts that have disap- Scotia, impressions from twined fabrics were
peared; inferences from tools used to fashion “preserved in mud on leather, sewn to a birch-
organic materials; patterns of decoration or bark armband”; these are too fragile to use as
design in “hard” media such as pottery that echo molds for casts of the original objects, but the
forms made of perishable materials; and images pattern of twining is clear (Gordon 1997:Fig. 9).
of objects made from perishable materials (see E. Leonard Kroon has made a case that some
discussions and examples in Drooker 2001a, Black Duck pottery from Ontario was formed
2001c; Hastorf 2001). within a mold made around a basketry form
(1982). On one rim sherd, both the interior and
MINERALIZATION AND PSEUDOMORPHS exterior surfaces of his examples show convex
designs with the appearance of coiled basketry
Replication of an organic object though the (not the concave “reverse images” typical of
gradual replacement of its material by a mineral impressions). Of course, coiling was not a bas-
substance or through covering it with a thin ketry technique known in this region during his-
layer of a metallic corrosion product can produce toric times, but that does not negate the possibil-
extremely accurate secondary evidence of the ity that it could have existed earlier.
original. These processes have been mentioned At least three chapters in this volume draw
upon evidence from impressions on pottery and with pottery temper and decoration to trace
other materials. J. M. Adovasio and colleagues group movements over time. Rieth utilized
report on a fabric from the Early Holocene cordage and fabric data together with trace ele-
Hiscock site in western New York (Chapter 3). ment analysis of the sherds on which they were
This rare ancient specimen is a naturally formed impressed to effectively demonstrate continuity
cast of a fine-scale twined fabric. Both William between Owasco and earlier archaeological tra-
Johnson and Andrew Myers (Chapter 6) and ditions in the Susquehanna Valley of New York.
Christina Rieth (Chapter 7) utilized cordage and
fabric impressions on pottery in their analyses. STAINS
Both projects employed data from large numbers
of impressed sherds, utilizing cordage attributes Virtually all archaeologists have excavated
in combination with pottery attributes to study soil stains indicating the former position of
group affiliations of their makers. Johnson and now-disappeared organic objects. Stains on
Myers studied materials from Late Prehistoric non-perishable artifacts can preserve images of
and Protohistoric sites in northwestern perishables, although occurrences are rare. For
Pennsylvania, analyzing cordage twist together example, negative images of open-twined fab-
10 Penelope B. Drooker
rics (or a single fabric) were stained onto material culture for a particular site, region, or
groundstone bayonets at the Late Archaic time period. For instance, stone-cutting and
Overlock site in Maine (Blustain et al. 1999:192; woodworking tools, including adzes, gouges,
Gordon 1997:20, 22, 23; Petersen et al. 1984; and celts, at Late Archaic River phase sites in the
Robinson 1996:Fig. 18; Whitehead 1987; see also Hudson-Mohawk Valley, together with the
Chapter 8 of this volume). absence of evidence for substantial wooden
houses or palisades, led Ritchie to hypothesize
MISSING PORTIONS OF COMPOSITE the production of dugout canoes (1980:131). He
ARTIFACTS also hypothesized that a barbed bone artifact
found at Lamoka Lake was a net-making tool
Simple logic often dictates the nature of (1980:48). Stone or bone hide scrapers and bone
missing portions of tools, weapons, or orna- awls and needles often are taken to indicate pro-
ments. Stone netsinkers and bone fishhooks, cessing of hides and production of sewn animal-
such as from the Late Archaic Lamoka Lake site skin bags or clothing.
in central New York (Ritchie 1980:46-50), imply
the necessary presence of strong, well-crafted SKEUOMORPHS
cordage for fish nets and lines. Stone projectile
points and bone harpoon heads would have Objects with decorative elements that copy
required wooden shafts, and so on. Ornaments functional designs typical of other media are
with suspension holes needed leather thongs or called skeuomorphs. When the copied items are
fiber thread to attach them to garments or head- of perishable materials, their replication may
dresses, or to fashion them into necklaces, preserve an excellent record of a no-longer-exist-
bracelets, and other such articles. ing type of object. Christine Hastorf gives the
example of a cordage net used to hold a ceramic
DISPOSITION PATTERNS OF NON- pot later being replicated in metal as a decora-
PERISHABLE OBJECTS tion on a Chinese bronze vessel, and also cites
Frank Cushing’s discussion of Iroquois castellat-
Disposition patterns of less-perishable ed pots as deriving from bark vessels having
objects formerly affixed to or associated with rounded bottoms and square tops, with the pots’
perishable items can be used to help reconstruct incised linear decoration evolved from porcu-
the vanished artifacts. For example, in conjunc- pine quill designs on birchbark (Cushing
tion with an analysis of Monongahela social 1886:519-520; Hastorf 2001:34-35).
organization through mortuary patterns, Kathryn Browning Hoffman (1979) has
Christine Davis (1984) described 15 burials that described a number of examples of design ele-
had large numbers of bone beads in geometric ments on prehistoric New York pottery that she
patterns in the abdominal area, as if they had interprets as replicating patterns typical of inter-
been affixed to skirts or other garments. William laced basketry weaves and of quillwork. Incised
Ritchie reported a pattern of perforated bear designs such as herringbone patterns and the
claws around the upper body of an adult male filled triangle motif could well derive from inter-
burial at the Middle Archaic Frontenac Island laced basketry (although the presence of inter-
site in Cayuga Lake, such that the claws laced wood splint basketry in the Northeast
appeared to have been sewn to a shirt or jacket prior to the advent of European examples has
(1980:117, 121). been debated [Bardwell 1986]). Hoffman also
notes the similarity between projecting spiky
TOOLS FOR WORKING ORGANIC nodes on a Late Woodland pottery vessel and
MATERIALS decorative “porcupine twist” work (see
Definitions) on some 19th-century Iroquoian
Tools used to fashion items made from wood splint basketry.
organic materials frequently are analyzed by
archaeologists to deduce the nature of perishable IMAGES OF PERISHABLE OBJECTS
12 Penelope B. Drooker
The Late Woodland overlaps with the Baker, Brenda J., and Christina B. Rieth
Protohistoric, a period after 1492 when 2000 Beyond the Massacre: Historic and Prehis-
Native groups began to acquire European toric Activity at Fort William Henry. North-
goods, but intensive interaction (and written east Anthropology (60):45-61.
accounts of that experience) had not yet Bardwell, Kathryn
begun. As might be expected, the 1986 The Case for an Aboriginal Origin of North-
Protohistoric period began and ended later eastern Indian Woodsplint Basketry. Man in
in the interior than along the eastern the Northeast 31:49-67.
seaboard. The Contact period, a term that Beauchamp, William M.
implies face-to-face, extended contact 1903 Metallic Ornaments of the New York Indians.
between Native Americans and Europeans, Bulletin 73. New York State Museum,
likewise began at different times in different Albany.
places, although it sometimes is applied Blustain, Malinda S., Margaret A. Leveque, and Brian
across-the-board to the post-1492 period. S. Robinson
3. Many of the artifacts described in this chap- 1999 Two Fossilized Late Archaic Textiles from
ter, most notably (but by no means exclu- Maine: Pyrite Pseudomorphs from the Hart-
sively) those preserved by contact with ford Cemetery Site. Archaeology of Eastern
metal, were grave goods potentially subject North America 27:185-196.
to the Native American Grave Protection and Brasser, Theodore J.
Repatriation Act. Thus, no photographs of 1978a Early Indian–European Contacts. In North-
them are included. east, edited by Bruce G. Trigger, pp. 78-88.
4. See note 3. Handbook of North American Indians Vol.
5. See note 2. 15. Smithsonian Institution, Washington,
D.C.
6. See note 3.
1978b Mahican. In Northeast, edited by Bruce G.
Trigger, pp. 198-212. Handbook of North
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
American Indians Vol. 15. Smithsonian
Institution, Washington, D.C.
My grateful thanks go to the participants in
Brose, David S., James A. Brown, David W. Penney,
the April 2002 Northeast Natural History and Kirk Bakker
Conference symposium, “Perishable Material
1985 Ancient Art of the American Woodland Indians.
Culture in the Northeast,” which resulted in the Harry N. Abrams, New York.
present volume, and to Jeffrey Bursey, who had
Browning, Kathryn
hoped to participate. The information that they
1974 Indian Textiles as Reconstructed from the
have shared has opened my eyes to many new
Impressions Left on Long Island. Archaeolo-
possibilities in tracing the use of organic materi- gy of Eastern North America 2(1):94-98.
als over time. Robert E. Funk, James Morton, and
Cadzow, Donald A.
Christina Rieth alerted me to a number of partic-
1936 Archaeological Studies of the Susquehannock
ularly useful references, and provided copies of
Indians of Pennsylvania. Safe Harbor Report
many of them. Chris also provided a critical No. 2. Pennsylvania Historical Commission,
review of the original publication manuscript. Harrisburg.
Coles, John R.
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Conway, Donna L., and Mary Moser
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Association annual meeting, Lake George, Investigations of Sheep Rock Shelter, Hunting-
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16 Penelope B. Drooker
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1935 Antiquities of the New England Indians. Saunders, and Gian C. Cervone
Peabody Museum of American Archaeolo- 1987 The Adams and Culbertson Sites. Charles F.
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Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © 2004
by the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
nology. The combination of poor preservation technology by using data from admittedly wide-
with an absence of long occupational sequences ly separated localities with generally temporally
renders the discernment of specific developmen- circumscribed occupations both within and near
tal sequences or even chronological trends in the Upper Ohio Valley. In what follows, the per-
perishable technology much more difficult in the ishable assemblages from a series of sites are
Upper Ohio Valley than it is in Texas, Arizona, briefly described and summarized in terms of
New Mexico, Utah, Nevada, Oregon, or other the “windows” they individually and collective-
points west of the “Cactus Curtain.” ly afford into the plant-based technology of the
Despite these limitations, however, it is pos- commonly recognized temporal segments of
sible to broadly outline some of the temporal Upper Ohio Valley prehistory. By design, this
and regional trends in non-durable plant-based summary includes only sites and assemblages
Figure 2.2. Late Archaic 1/1 interval plaited basket from Meadowcroft Rockshelter. This specimen exhibits a
reinforced and sewn 180º rim.
unidentified plant and the item may be a portion tom, Tennessee (Chapman and Adovasio 1977);
of a fragment of cloth or a bag (Figure 2.3). Modoc Rockshelter, Illinois (Fowler 1959; Styles
Regrettably, the exact context of the Hiscock et al. 1983); and probably Layer G at Russell
diagonal twining is somewhat ambiguous and Cave, Alabama (Griffin 1978). Early Archaic
its age cannot be presently fixed with certitude. twining in the form of sandals is also evidenced
If it derives from the Fibrous Gravelly Clay layer at Arnold Research Cave, Missouri (Kuttruf et al.
at Hiscock, it is of Eastern Clovis “vintage” or 1998), and Ice House Bottom produced knotted
Paleoindian ascription and if it derives from the netting in addition to twining. (Chapter 3 pro-
overlying Woody Layer, it is Early Archaic in vides a more detailed discussion of twined per-
age. In either case, it is the oldest example of ishables from eastern North America.)
twining in the Northeast.
MIDDLE ARCHAIC (6000–4000 B.C.
EARLY ARCHAIC (8000 B.C.–6000 B.C. [9950 [7950–5950 B.P.])
B.P.–7950 B.P.])
Middle Archaic fiber perishables are some-
With the singular exception of the Hiscock what more common in and near the Upper Ohio
specimen which, as noted previously, may be of Valley than those of earlier time horizons. Per-
Early Archaic ascription, no other perishable haps most informative of the complexity of
plant fiber artifacts or impressions of this age are developments during this period is an enigmatic
known from the Upper Ohio Valley. However, fiber construction from Test Unit II at Squaw
the widespread manufacture of twined basketry Rockshelter located in Cuyahoga County, Ohio
in Early Archaic contexts is firmly documented at (Andrews and Adovasio 1989). This item, which
Graham Cave, Missouri (Andrews and Adovasio is ascribable to a level radiocarbon dated at ca.
1996; Klippel 1971; Logan 1952); Ice House Bot- 3500 B.C. (5450 B.P.), represents a rather intri-
cately interwoven, elaborately knotted complex at the site (see below), exhibits a 1/1 plaiting
of four Z-spun single elements to which a final S interval without shifts. It is made of a birch-like
twist is imparted; it is attributed to the late Mid- (Betula sp.) bark and lacks selvages. This speci-
dle Archaic period by its excavator (Brose 1989). men, which dates from ca. 4720 ± 140 B.C. (6670
While the details of manipulation are too lengthy ± 140 B.P.) to 3350 ± 130 B.C. (5300 ± 130 B.P.),
and complex to present here, a simple descrip- was directly associated with hackberry (Celtis
tion follows. Initially, two unspun single-ply ele- sp.) seeds and may represent a portion of a cir-
ments were secured in and subsequently affixed cular or rectangular container.
to another pair of unspun elements with two Although it is safe to assume that twining
overhand knots. Six of the eight emergent ends continued to be produced across the entire
were imparted a slight Z spin, intricately inter- breadth of eastern North America, no Middle
looped and overhand knotted with four of the Archaic examples are presently available from
plies, finally S-twisted together, and terminated the Upper Ohio Valley or immediately adjacent
with a final whipping knot (Figure 2.4). While areas.
the function of this complex construction is
unknown, it is thoroughly charred and undeco- LATE ARCHAIC (4000–1000 B.C. [5950–2950
rated. It is possible that this specimen represents B.P.])
a mend or splice of a larger and quite elaborate
cordage construction, or it may simply constitute While perishable-bearing sites of Late Archa-
a “doodle.” ic ascription are relatively common in some por-
A directly dated simple plaited fragment tions of eastern North America, at least as com-
from lower Stratum IIb at Meadowcroft Rock- pared to earlier periods, plant fiber artifacts of
shelter is the only known radiocarbon-assayed this time period continue to be rare in and near
perishable fiber artifact represented east of the the Upper Ohio Valley.
Rockies. The Meadowcroft specimen, which dif- Two of the simple plaited Meadowcroft Rock-
fers in no way from its Paleoindian predecessors shelter basketry fragments from upper Stratum
or its Late Archaic/Woodland period successors IIb and one specimen from Stratum III are ascrib-
Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © 2004
by the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
Measurements:
Specimen Dimensions: 20 x 12 mm
Weft Gap: 0 mm
DISCUSSION
INTERNAL CORRELATIONS
Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © 2004
by the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
46 DeeAnne Wymer
Table 4.1. Number of Artifacts Examined for Preserved Materials.
Dr. Christopher Carr and consequently included entire upper edge had been examined; the next
“breastplates” (59 in number), “celts” (14), and pass, moving from left to right, included an
“headdresses” (4) [the original project term overlap of the field of vision of the first transect
“headdress” has been replaced by the more to ensure that nothing was missed. The pattern
appropriate term “headplate” for this chapter of overlapping transects was continued until the
and Chapter 5, this volume]. The larger number entire side had been completed. Once the entire
of breastplates reflects both the greater quantity side had been inspected and notations made (see
of these artifacts in the curated collections and below), selected areas that revealed complicated
their tendency to have retained organic materials layers of materials, unusual substances, or par-
in a fairly good state of preservation. Seven sites ticularly well-preserved fragments were reexam-
are represented in the analysis, including exam- ined in detail. Once the first side was completed,
ples of prominent Hopewell sites with large col- the object was turned over and a scan completed
lections (Seip, Hopewell, and Liberty/Harness), for the opposite surface. Each side was treated
plus sites with either smaller numbers of curated independently and forms and notes were made
artifacts or less-well-known localities (Ater, Fort- for each object side.
ney, Fort Ancient, and Rockhold) (Figure 4.1). In The location and identification of organic
fact, both Seip and Hopewell are fairly well rep- materials on the artifacts was facilitated by the
resented with examples of breastplates and celts; use of transparencies marked in a grid layout
the Hopewell site includes three headdresses as that were placed on top of digital color photo-
well. The other sites’ analyses tended to be based graphs (not to scale) of each side of each object
upon the examination of breastplates; Fortney (see Figure 4.2). The outline of the object, such as
did produce one celt specimen (see Table 4.1). the edges of a breastplate, was marked on the
transparency with black permanent marker pen
ANALYTICAL TECHNIQUES and the object catalog number and side number
were also identified on the transparency. Conse-
The detailed examination of the copper arti- quently, materials identified on the object with
facts followed a specific format that I created for the microscope could be directly outlined and
this project. The analysis consisted of carefully drawn on the transparency along with written
scanning the surface of each artifact side with the comments. An assortment of different colored
aid of a stereobinocular microscope (with mag- marker pens was utilized with commonly
nifications ranging from 7x to 30x), the standard encountered materials represented by selected
“tool” of paleoethnobotanical research. The scan colors (e.g., the outline of hide marked in orange
followed a set pattern, typically beginning at the ink, plant fabrics in purple, and wood charcoal
upper right edge/corner of the artifact, with the and other macrobotanical specimens in red).
artifact being slowly moved to the right until the Thus, the use of this method created an immedi-
ate visual impact of the type, location, and included objective data, such as a series of check-
nature of the preserved organic materials still lists recording the presence of specific organic
extant on the surface of the copper. In addition, categories (e.g., the presence of hide/leather,
the use of a grid system on the transparency plant fabrics, feathers, fur, and others). Subjec-
allowed for precise locations of materials or tive data, which may be some of the more impor-
items (or edges/boundaries of substances) in the tant descriptions of the material, included exten-
handwritten or typed notes. sive and detailed notes and impressions indicat-
In addition, an extensive five-page form was ed on the last page of the form that were subse-
utilized to ensure that uniform and accurate quently typed into a laptop computer at the
notes were kept for each object side. The forms museum.
48 DeeAnne Wymer
Figure 4.2. Example of analysis transparency and grid system.
Due to time constraints a few objects (11 in ley’s assessment of the fabrics). The partnership
number) were simply “scanned”; this enabled of a paleoethnobotanist and textile analyst
the individual sides of the objects to be more rap- proved to be extremely advantageous. I believe
idly assessed. This was often done with objects that our assessments of the objects were
that a preliminary visual examination suggested strengthened by the interaction and discussion
might not have much organic material remain- while reviewing the same set of artifacts at the
ing. Also, several specimens could only be same time.
assessed for a single side (one breastplate, for Surprisingly, a wide variety of organic mate-
example, had been glued to a wooden back after rials were still present on the copper artifacts.
excavation, and thus only the visible side could The first phase of the research consisted of devel-
be analyzed). oping macro- and micro-level characteristics
Typically, I first assessed and described the useful for materials identification. Some materi-
organic materials on each artifact and then als, such as hide and bark, revealed remarkably
passed the object on to the project textile expert, similar attributes at first glance; however, closer
Dr. Virginia Wimberley, if traces of fabrics were micro-level examination, along with an increas-
present (see Chapter 5, this volume, for Wimber- ing familiarity with the materials as the project
Hair/fur
MATERIALS ON BREASTPLATES — red 4 —
— undifferentiated 9 3
All copper artifact classes exhibited traces of Hide?/bark? 1 1
preserved organic substances. In fact, virtually
every object analyzed in this project produced at Macrobotanical
least some residue of organic material. Breast-
— bark 19 4
— wood charcoal 40 —
plates, however, revealed the greatest quantity — seeds 12 —
and diversity of identifiable materials. The sub- — flower masses 1 —
stances on celts and headdresses seemed to — unidentified plant masses 12 1
reflect what had been identified on the breast-
— monocot stem/leaves 6 2
— leaf fragments 2 1
plates; the only item not observed on the breast- — possible unidentified botanical 1 —
plates that was unique to the celt artifact class — nutshell? 1 —
included a single specimen of a small copper Bone
bead adhering to a celt from the Hopewell site — calcined (burned) 20 —
(Tables 4.2, 4.3, and 4.4).
A review of the organic materials associated
Pearls
— whole, drilled 5 —
with the various breastplates is a good way to — fragments 11 —
initiate a discussion of the materials identified
during the project analyses. One difficulty in this Beads - other
discussion is the sheer diversity of the materials
— shell 2 —
50 DeeAnne Wymer
Table 4.3. Materials Identified on Celts.a Table 4.4. Materials Identified on Headplates.a
Textiles Leather
— plant - Group 1 5 — — suede 2 —
— plant - matting 1 1 — outer hide 1 —
— plant - yarns 2 — — unidentified 1 1
— hair - interlaced 2 —
Hair/fur
Feathers 3 — — undifferentiated 3 —
Also, I examined at least one breastplate on analysis. Second, some specimens revealed
which interlaced animal hair yarns lay on top of examples of bark cloth — a soft, pliable bark that
a bark-cloth fabric (see Figure 4.7). The majority had been pounded into a substance analogous to
of the interlaced animal hair specimens (of those felt.
segments that had not severely absorbed copper Other examples not usually demarcated as
corrosion by-products) are made of a fine light- textiles also were included in this broad catego-
colored hair, which may be rabbit; some speci- ry. These include examples of a nearly intact
mens exhibit longer, coarser, more golden-col- matting made out of a long, linear leaf interlaced
ored/reddish strands, which may be fox, and in an over-under-over pattern. Some of these
others a dark-colored hair/fur that could very examples are verified as cane and some may rep-
well represent bear (Figure 4.10). It will take an resent cattail (Typha). I also observed isolated or
analysis by a specialist in animal hair identifica- non-patterned twisted plant yarns and unidenti-
tion to verify the taxa represented by the various fied processed plant strands.
hair/fur specimens. I do believe that at least Feathers. Another common material identi-
three different types (and probably more) of fied on the breastplate specimens includes bird
fur/hair are extant on the copper objects. feathers. At least 15 breastplate sides produced
The other examples placed in this textile cat- confirmed identifications of this material (Table
egory only loosely match the traditional use of 4.2 and Figures 4.4 and 4.8). Both long mature
the term “textile” (see Definitions). For example, flight or body feathers and down feathers had
two different types of bark fabrics were noted on been utilized. The longer intact feathers seem to
the breastplates. First, several examples of what be the most common, and include the shafts as
appeared to be thin strips of a pliable bark that well as the individual feather segments and pos-
had been interlaced were noted during the sibly barbs. In most cases, it appears that entire
52 DeeAnne Wymer
in alternate bands that may have been originally
backed to some material (discussed below). On
some breastplate specimens, it is apparent that
the feathers had formed part of a larger, more
complicated item made out of diverse materials
that had adhered to the plates and had thus been
preserved.
Leather/Hide. Specimens of napped and
worked leather/hide were also frequently
encountered during the project analysis (Figure
4.9). The hide specimens include two versions:
(1) the outer or “skin” side of leather, and (2) the
interior napped or “sueded” portion of hide.
Both types produced distinctive characteristics
and could thus be discerned during analysis.
The sueded specimens, for example, revealed
unique fiber characteristics, and were probably
created from deer hide. Most of the extant exam-
ples appeared to be from the interior suede of
hide rather than the outer worked skin area.
The leather/hide specimens, like the various
“textile” category examples, seem to represent a
number of different uses of this material. Several
breastplates have one or both sides completely
(or nearly completely) covered with hide. This
may indicate that the copper artifact had been
originally wrapped in the material or had lain
adjacent to a hide or leather object. In some
cases, portions of the hide or leather still had hair
attached and may thus represent a fur item that
had been in contact with the copper artifact (dis-
cussed below). Second, some examples may be
the remnants of hide backing in which a plant or
animal hair fabric, or other objects (e.g., pearls or
bone beads), may have been originally attached
Figure 4.4. Celt C011 from the Seip site covered with
Figure 4.6. Close-up of Group 1 plant fabrics on the surface of breastplate specimen B039 from Seip. The mate-
rial and structure are very similar to the example shown in Figure 4.3.
54 DeeAnne Wymer
Figure 4.7. Close-up of breastplate specimen B034 from Seip. The photograph shows traces of interlaced
animal hair yarns (upper left and lower right) lying on top of felted bark. Please note that the interlaced fabric
exhibits green (lighter color in photograph) and red (darker color) pigments. The opposite side of this breast-
plate contains pearl beads mixed with calcined bone and wood charcoal.
Figure 4.8. Close-up of patterned feathers that cover the entire side of breastplate B030 from Seip (the oppo-
site side is covered with hide). Feathers are lying directly on the copper with traces of an eroded hide on top
of the features. In the lower left corner is a well-preserved area in which plant yarns seem to have been asso-
ciated with the quills of several feathers.
Figure 4.10. Breastplate B067 from the Hopewell site showing three different types of fur/hair material cover-
ing the surface. The central and right area of the plate is enfolded with an interlaced animal hair textile
56 DeeAnne Wymer
Figure 4.11. Breastplate B034 from Seip revealing strands of pearl beads with calcined bone and wood char-
coal.
Figure 4.12. Breastplate from Seip (specimen B079) described in text. This photograph shows Side 1, which
is covered with a complex mixture of a bark and Group 1 plant-fiber fabric with a central area of feathers and
hides.
Figure 4.14. Side 2 of specimen B079 with hair/fur and traces of hide and bark.
58 DeeAnne Wymer
single or grouped strands still preserved on a few sp.), oak–white group (Quercus sp.), and possibly
random or isolated locations on the surface (the a conifer (pine?) had been utilized as a fuel
“undifferentiated” group). These might represent source.
animal skin objects in which erosion and degra- Uncarbonized bark also occurs fairly fre-
dation had removed much of the original surface. quently on the breastplates. In these cases, the
Alternatively, the breastplate might have been in bark specimens typically appeared as random
close proximity or contact with a hair/fur object strips or fragments without any clear orientation
at some time as it lay in a burial or ritual context. or any evidence of purposeful modification.
At least four of the hair/fur examples exhibit the Seed specimens were observed, usually as
same reddish-brown color and may represent the isolated examples in low density, on a number of
same animal taxon (fox?). breastplates. Most of the seeds, unfortunately,
Macrobotanical Materials. Materials in the had been so readily absorbed into the copper
“Macrobotanical” category represent a wide that identification was difficult or impossible.
variety of distinctive plant parts or masses. Per- Those that could be identified were typically
haps the most common manifestation of this “weedy” types that were probably incorporated
group includes wood charcoal adhering to the onto the copper from the surrounding soil. Rush
surfaces of many of the breastplates. A number (Juncus), grass (Graminae — probably panic
of these occurrences include small, scattered grass [Panicum sp.]), and possibly ragweed
flecks of wood charcoal, but a significant num- (Ambrosia sp.) are present. No specimens from
ber of the breastplates exhibit masses of large the Eastern Agricultural Complex have yet been
(1–4 centimeters in size) fragments of wood identified.
charcoal. There is no obvious orientation to the Rather unusual plant categories include
wood charcoal fragments and they do not seem examples where entire plate sides are covered
to be part of any larger wooden object that may with masses of stem and leaf fragments. Many of
have burned. These large masses of wood char- the stems look to be from medium-sized grasses,
coal are often associated with the presence of cal- and several grass florets were in fact identified
cined (burned) bone (see Figure 4.11), and (see, for example, Specimen B043 from Seip).
undoubtedly represent the placement of copper One unique case, a breastplate from Hopewell,
breastplates within a burial cremation. At least Mound 25, Burial 6, has one entire side com-
one case — Specimen B007 — included human pletely covered with the preserved remains of
facial bones. I suspect that these copper artifacts thousands of small flowers (approximately 3
had been placed in their final position after the mm in size). The small flowers are multipetaled
initial crematory episode since the plates did not and appear to be on top of hide that is lying
exhibit burning; in addition, with the exception directly upon the breastplate’s surface. The inflo-
of wood charcoal and calcined bone, the other rescences contain mature seeds still incorporated
organic materials typically did not reveal any into the flower, revealing distinctive linear seeds,
evidence for burning (that is to say, the other and many are still embedded in a honeycomb
groups in this category, such as plant masses, shape within their attachment site on the devel-
flower masses, seeds, and the others were not oping seed head (imagine a sunflower “disc” on
carbonized). an extremely small scale). I am still trying to ver-
Unfortunately, it was extremely difficult to ify the taxon of the plant, but given the seeds and
ascertain the wood taxa from the charcoal speci- flower structure, my preliminary assessment is
mens associated with the copper artifacts. In that the flowers are from one of the Compositae
order to confirm wood identifications, a fairly (Aster family) species. Given the apparent fresh
“clean” cross-section, revealing the vessel (cell) state of the flowers upon incorporation onto the
structure and arrangement unique to different breastplate and the maturation rate of the seeds,
taxa, must be viewed and assessed. I was able to it seems evident that this particular ritual or bur-
determine from a few fragments that walnut ial episode occurred in late summer or early fall.
(Juglans sp.), hickory (Carya sp.), ash (Fraxinus Unlike the seeds noted above that most likely
60 DeeAnne Wymer
Recent Repair. Not surprisingly, a significant analysis that materials were less well preserved
number of the breastplates exhibit traces of post- on the celts than the breastplates. There is a
excavation repair. Many of these repairs are greater degree of copper corrosion on the celts,
located at the more vulnerable, thinner edges or which often obscures identifying features of the
corners of the artifacts. A variety of repair tech- organic materials. Perhaps the increased corro-
niques and materials had been utilized during sion was either due to the greater thickness or
the curation histories of the copper artifacts, mass of copper present in the celts compared to
including green-pigmented wax, glues, tape, the breastplates, or related to the different man-
and new (sometimes artificially patinated) cop- ufacturing processes that created these two
per replacement parts. Glues and wax seem to be classes of artifacts.
the predominant repair techniques. Finally, a major difficulty with analyzing the
One interesting element of which future headplate specimens is that after their removal
researchers need to be aware is that in several from their original contexts they had been heav-
instances entire sides of particular breastplates ily repaired and cleaned. This was undoubtedly
(e.g., B059 from the Harness site) had apparently related to the crushing that had occurred to these
been covered with some form of modern cloth. complicated three-dimensional artifacts as well
This is a white material with the appearance of as the intrinsic interest that this particular arti-
nylon or perhaps silk, which was then subse- fact class held for earlier curators and
quently covered with plant and seed masses. In researchers.
fact, at first glance I mistook the masses as origi- Celts. Celts were observed to have on their
nally prehistoric in origin, for they appeared to surfaces essentially the same types of fabrics
be virtually identical to the prehistoric plant and noted on the breastplates. This includes both the
seed/flower masses noted on other breastplates. relatively common Group 1 plant fabrics and the
Their uniformity at first puzzled me and on clos- interlaced animal hair fabrics (Table 4.3). Feath-
er examination I could see in eroded areas an ers were also identified on three of the four sides
underlying, obviously modern textile under- of two of the celts, including the unusual celt
neath the plant/seed masses. The attribution to specimen that has a remnant of colored (dyed?
postexcavation repair was confirmed when on natural? painted?) possible feather fabric of
one of the plates with this treatment I identified some form (mentioned above). This celt has one
the presence of clover (Trifolium repens), a plant side that appears to have on it eroded traces of a
introduced from Europe. Group 1 plant fabric associated with alternating
Unidentified Organic. Finally, a “catch-all” bands of orange and dark-colored small feathers
category utilized in paleoethnobotanical analysis (see Figure 4.4).
is that of “unidentified organic.” This includes Some of the celts also yielded examples of
material that has been so eroded or corroded by preserved leather/hide fragments, including
copper salts that no cell structure or definable both interior sueded/napped and exterior outer
characteristics are still extant. skin (leather) remnants. Unfortunately, most of
the hide readily absorbed corrosion by-products,
MATERIALS ON CELTS AND HEADPLATES so anything beyond a basic notation of the pres-
ence of hide was nearly impossible to evaluate.
Overall, the same types of materials identi- However, one celt did produce a distinctive pat-
fied on the breastplates were also detected on the tern of the material (Specimen C022 from the
celts and headplates analyzed during this proj- Hopewell site) that suggested that the non-bit
ect, albeit with a lower diversity (Tables 4.3 and end had been wrapped in the substance with the
4.4). A number of differences are apparent, how- bit end relatively devoid of organic material
ever, and seem to reflect both the nature of the (Figure 4.9).
metal objects themselves and the excavation Fragments of carbonized wood, as well as
and/or curation histories of the artifacts. For uncharred bark segments, are also fairly ubiqui-
example, it was readily apparent during the tous on the celt specimens. Cross-sections with a
62 DeeAnne Wymer
Figure 4.15. Graphical comparison of selected materials by artifact type. “Group 1” indicates fabrics made from
Group 1 plant fibers. “Fur” includes both animal hair from fur pelts and interlaced fabrics made from animal hair
yarns.
served this delicate fabric than did the celts). hair fabrics are more predominant for the
Leather/hide and feathers were identified near- Hopewell site (and were not identified at all in
ly as frequently on the sides of the celts as they the sample of breastplates from the Harness site
were on the breastplates. Whether these are sig- analyzed for this project) (Table 4.6). My initial
nificant patterns or merely fortuitous associa- impression is that the Group 1 fabrics are
tions is impossible to assess at this time. Further extremely similar in plant/yarn processing and
research on a larger sample of celts (as well as fabric structure among all three sites (see also
breastplates and other copper objects) is neces- Chapter 5, this volume). Feathers are fairly com-
sary. mon on the breastplates from Harness, with
nearly a third of the sides producing evidence
INTRASITE COMPARISONS for this organic material; feathers are much less
common on the breastplates from the other two
Due to sample size, the only artifact class sites. Leather/hide fragments are fairly uniform
that could be utilized to compare and contrast in occurrence on the breastplates from all three
differences in the frequency of materials by site sites, being identified on approximately 20 to 28
is the breastplates. The three major sites produc- percent of the sides. Uncarbonized bark speci-
ing significant numbers of curated breastplates, mens are more common on the Seip breastplates,
Seip, Hopewell, and Liberty/Harness, were and wood charcoal is quite common on the Seip
compared for the presence of ten different organ- artifacts as well. (The Harness site also produced
ic materials on breastplate sides. I analyzed the a significant percentage of wood charcoal by
percentage of breastplate sides that yielded breastplate side.) Plant masses range around 10
Group 1 plant fabrics, interlaced animal hair fab- to 12 percent of the breastplate sides for all three
rics, feathers, leather/hide, bark, wood charcoal, sites. Monocot leaf fragments only occur on
plant masses, monocotyledon leaves, calcined breastplates from the Hopewell and Seip sites.
bone, and pearls (Table 4.6 and Figure 4.16). Finally, bone and pearls are more common on
Some intriguing differences did emerge among the breastplates from the Seip site, and are either
the sites. absent or present in lower percentages for the
Seip clearly produced the greatest occur- other two sites (Figure 4.16).
rence of the Group 1 fabrics compared to either Thus, the Seip site is significantly distinctive
Hopewell or Harness, while interlaced animal in yielding a greater presence of Group 1 plant
fabrics, bark, wood charcoal, bone, and pearls. MATERIAL ASSOCIATIONS AND
The Hopewell site produced the greatest fre- OBJECT COMPLEXITY
quency of leather/hide fragments and mono-
cotyledon leaf fragments. The Harness site During the examination of the copper arti-
returned the highest percentage of feathers and a facts, it was readily apparent that they incorpo-
fairly good quantity of wood charcoal as well. rated a palimpsest of diverse substances and
Overall, the breastplates from Seip produced the materials, often yielding a complex stratigraphy
greatest diversity and quantity, often with good of different compounds layered upon each other.
preservation, of the organic material identified For example, reviewing the breastplates from
during the scope of this current project (see Table Seip alone (which produced the greatest variety
4.6). I should note that the most common materi- of organics among the artifact classes and the
als that appeared on the Seip and Hopewell project sites), it is evident that nearly every side
breastplates — Group 1 plant-fiber fabrics, inter- of each breastplate produced a diversity of mate-
laced animal hair fabrics, and leather/hide frag- rials (Table 4.6). Of the 60 breastplate sides exam-
ments — also were identified on the breastplates ined for this site, 52 (86.70% ) yielded two or
from the other project sites of Ater, Fortney, Fort more distinct organic materials.
Ancient, and Rockhold; the fabrics and items The most common association of materials
made out of these materials (especially the on the Seip breastplates, as well as on plates
Group 1 plant and interlaced animal hair fabrics) from the other sites, included Group 1 plant fab-
seem quite similar in manufacture and appear- rics that were often found on the same side with
ance among all of the project sites (Table 4.6). traces of leather/hide. It was not unusual, for
66 DeeAnne Wymer
shape that hints of a heavy, but no longer extant, Group 1 plant fabrics noted for the breastplates.
object that had once been attached to or covering Plant (grass) masses and large monocotyledon
the feathers in the center. leaf segments were also identified. Headplates
Side 2 is equally perplexing. This side is cov- tended to be severely repaired and cleaned dur-
ered with a short, dark fur (bear?) that is orient- ing curation, but all specimens did produce
ed in a linear fashion on the plate (Figure 4.15); traces of the sueded portion of hide and at least
this is not an interlaced animal hair fabric. Some one may have preserved a few strands of human
areas of this side produced traces of an eroded hair.
sueded/napped hide that had been on top of the Many of the artifacts, especially the breast-
fur. The center of this side revealed a thicker area plates, preserved traces of what originally must
of fur with an impression of a more complicated have been complicated textiles or items. The
sequence of materials. The “edges” of the central identified combinations and stratigraphy sug-
shape were bounded by thick, flexible segments gest that some of the items may have been inter-
of bark (not a textile), and hide was identified on laced animal hair fabric (some of it painted)
top of the fur contained within the shape defined attached with plant yarns to a hide or to a Group
by the bark. Unidentified (and probably uniden- 1 plant-fabric backing, and to a lesser extent,
tifiable) organic materials are also associated bark; pearls and other objects also may have
with this central area, often adjacent to the bark been attached to such fabrics. Feather fabrics
“arc” shapes. Historic glue around the drilled also may have been utilized, and some evidence
holes, and the presence of large pearls in a plas- from specimens suggests that these, too, may
tic bag, suggest that possibly pearls may have have been attached to a hide or plant fabric.
covered the breastplate holes on this side (but I believe that perhaps one of the most impor-
this association is not clearly known at this time). tant results of the examination of the copper arti-
And, just like the breastplate from Mound City, facts under the parameters of this project is the
there seems to be a pattern of feathers on one clear evidence for the preservation of diverse
side and fur on the other of the breastplate. and complicated organic materials still extant on
these curated objects. It seems apparent that this
CONCLUSION little-investigated realm of Middle Woodland
archaeology may offer remarkable insights into
Overall, the analysis for organic components the ceremonial sphere of the Hopewell people.
preserved on the copper artifact classes of breast- Perhaps, however, it is not surprising that this
plates, celts, and headplates reveals that nearly analysis reveals a microscopic world of artifacts
every item produced some residue. Typically, it that reflects the degree and depth of complexity
was more common to find a mix of several dif- that has made the Hopewell culture so fascinat-
ferent materials on a single side than just a soli- ing to both professional archaeologists and the
tary substance. The breastplates yielded the public.
greatest diversity and best preservation of the
artifacts examined. Some of the more prevalent NOTE
organic materials included Group 1 plant fabrics
(with a similar structure across all of the project In addition to the results reported herein, a
sites; see, for instance, Figure 4.3), interlaced ani- pilot study undertaken during the summer of
mal hair fabrics, hide, feathers, pearls, wood 1999 in Chillicothe, Ohio, at the Ross County
charcoal and bark, and calcined bone. More Historical Society and the Hopewell Culture
unusual categories included grass, flowers, and National Historical Park also revealed organic
unidentifiable plant masses. The breastplates residue still extant on the surface of several cop-
from Seip revealed some of the more complicat- per artifacts in the collections of those institu-
ed and best-preserved examples of organic tions. This research is continuing with the analy-
items. sis of copper objects curated in the collections of
Celts tended to yield hide, feathers, and a number of institutions.
interlaced animal hair fabrics as well as the same
68 DeeAnne Wymer
PRESERVED TEXTILES ON HOPEWELL COPPER
CHAPTER 5
Virginia S. Wimberley
Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © 2004
by the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
70 Virginia S. Wimberley
(Greber and Ruhl 1989). Another major concen- including studies of textile collections from a
tration of burial mounds associated with an number of sites. His research involved replica-
earthwork enclosure occurred at Mound City. tion studies as to how the fabrics could have
Seip mound group, located on several terraces of been produced. His report on the excavations at
South Paint Creek, a tributary of the Scioto, had the Hopewell site from 1891 to 1892 provides a
two large mounds and five smaller civic and cer- view of the textiles in association with their
emonial structures. At the Liberty/Harness site, accompanying remains. He documented the
the remains of a “Great House” beneath Edwin types of twined constructions commonly attrib-
Harness Mound incorporated complex symbols uted to Hopewell sites (Willoughby 1938).
of special colors, trees, and directions that indi- Flora Church (1984) studied the variation in
cated usage beyond mortuary rituals (Greber textiles within and between sites for Ohio
1983). Tremper Mound is located on a high ter- Hopewell. Within burial contexts, not every indi-
race along the western edge of the Scioto Valley. vidual was associated with textiles. Some per-
An embankment originally enclosed the mound. sons had more elaborate textiles, some had less
Within the mound was a multichambered oval elaborate ones, and some had no textiles at all.
charnel house with added “wings.” Rather than Textiles appeared to be part of some form of
individual burials characteristic of other ranking. Church studied 120 fabric specimens
Hopewell sites, Tremper contained four commu- from the Liberty/Harness, Hopewell, and Seip
nal depositories for the dead and their grave sites, housed at the Ohio Historical Center. The
offerings (Woodward and McDonald 1986:110). original group was narrowed to 62 specimens for
Opulent, non-utilitarian grave offerings and more intensive analysis. The sample included
the fine craftsmanship and artistry of Hopewell textile fragments described as charred, frag-
art distinguish Hopewell burials from the pre- ments with evidence of metallic salts absorption,
ceding Adena period. The raw materials for fragments in situ on copper, and impressions of
these objects came from a far-reaching trade net- textiles on copper. She noted thirteen types of
work. Copper from the Great Lakes was formed fabric structures, including five types of weft
into breastplates and headdresses. Mica from the twining, one type of weft wrapping, five types of
southern Appalachians was carved into effigy interlacing (including both twill and plain
forms and sometimes used to cover burials like a weave), and two variations of beaten bark cloth
blanket. Freshwater pearls were strung together (Church 1984: Fig. 4). Sixty-four per cent of the
and sewn onto clothing. These pearls represent- total samples were twined.
ed great wealth in individual burials; 100,000 Seip fabric samples studied by Church evi-
pearls were recovered from the Hopewell denced finer yarn elements than fragments from
mound group and approximately 15,000 pearls Harness or Hopewell. Table 5.1 summarizes the
covered a multiple burial in Seip Mound 1 results of Church’s yarn analysis. Spaced alter-
(Moorehead 1922; Woodward and MacDonald nate-pair twining (see “Twining” in Definitions )
1986). Excavation of an Ater Mound burial of an predominated at all sites over the other 12 struc-
adult male and infant revealed 1,350 pearl and tures. Compact alternate-pair twining and
shell beads on the chest of the adult and a deco- spaced plain twining occurred at Hopewell and
rated blanket covering the infant, with 1,500 Seip. All three sites had small numbers of fabrics
conch shell beads forming a diamond pattern on in oblique interlacing. Church attributed the
a twined fabric substrate (Ohio Historical Socie- spaced alternate-pair twining and oblique inter-
ty 1976:4). lacing to clothing uses for higher ranked indi-
viduals, based upon the fine yarn elements, high
PREVIOUS HOPEWELL TEXTILE thread counts, and contact with copper artifacts.
STUDIES She predicted that the fine-scale spaced alter-
nate-pair twining and oblique interlacing found
Gifted as an artist, observer, and writer, in the burial contexts would not be found in
Charles C. Willoughby wrote extensively about habitation context textiles (1984:11).
the artifacts of North American excavations, Willoughby (1938) reported eight types of
textile structures, including three types of inter- typical of rabbit or hare fibers. Forty-one sam-
lacing, four types of twining, and one type of ples (81%) of fibers occurred in bundles with
looped netting (Willoughby 1938:Fig. 1). While nodal structures throughout the length, typical
Church’s sample did include most of Willough- of bast fibers. Surface encrustation and degrada-
by’s fabric structure classes, there were no exam- tion prevented a more specific identification.
ples of “coiled” (looped) netting. Interestingly, Four samples (5%) contained both bast and rab-
she found several slits or openings, stained with bit fibers. Fiber type was tied to textile construc-
copper salts, which she suggested were button- tion, in that the combined-fiber yarns were from
holes for copper buttons (Church 1984:8). While oblique interlacing fragments and bast-only
Church refers to the work of Whitford (1941) on yarns were from spaced alternate-pair twining
fiber analysis, she does not report fiber diame- fragments, with only two exceptions (one sam-
ters from her analysis. ple each of oblique interlacing and spaced twin-
Song, Jakes, and Yerkes (1996) studied pri- ing).
marily textiles mounted between glass plates The widest survey of Hopewell Middle
from the Seip mound group, curated at the Ohio Woodland textiles was reported by Kathleen
Historical Center. They examined visual charac- Hinkle (1984), using the Hopewell collections of
teristics of fabric structures, coloration, and fiber the Ohio Historical Society, Kent State Universi-
types for the purpose of understanding Ohio ty, the Cleveland Museum of Natural History,
Hopewell textile production and utilization and the Field Museum of Natural History in
behaviors. The analysis of this sample revealed Chicago. While her original sample was of 389
the use of animal fibers, bast fibers, and a combi- fabrics from nine Hopewell sites, a sample of 154
nation of the two. “Blackened” (carbonized) tex- specimens was studied most intensely, noting
tile fragments were smaller in size than fiber type, fabric structure, yarn size, and warp
“unblackened.” Of the unblackened fragments and weft yarn spin direction. The emphasis was
all but 15 showed copper staining and 27 to determine the textile attributes that would
showed evidence of other coloration, in agree- range from the most visible to the least visible
ment with Shetrone and Greenman’s 1931 report for conveying social meaning in the develop-
of the excavation of textiles with painted designs ment of a synthetic theory. This theory proposed
typical of Hopewell patterns. Song was not able that the attributes of an object that pertain to
to distinguish patterns, due to the small size of individual social and manufacturing processes
the fragments and the amount of surface degra- are organized hierarchically in the manner of
dation. Willoughby (1938) had reported hair Wobst’s (1977) information exchange model.
fibers in his samples, speculating that they might Hinkle recorded 12 variations in textile structure,
be buffalo, bear, and rabbit. Song et al. (1996) which included six variations of twining, five
found that the animal fibers in their sample had variations of interlacing and oblique interlacing,
pigmented internal structures or medullas. and spiral interlinking. Working with the prob-
Seven samples (14%) had the fiber structures lem of provenience for many Hopewell artifacts,
72 Virginia S. Wimberley
Hinkle encoded the fabrics with the most accu- oblique interlacing with mean element diame-
rate locational data possible in order to compare ters of 2 mm. Second, White (1987:70, 73-74)
intra-site attributes. Her data analysis compared described five fragments of very fine twined tap-
the Scioto River Valley sites, since data were too estry and one fine, flat woven cloth with fringe.
limited for the Great Miami River Valley and She also found that remnants of fur, feathers,
Muskingum River Valley sites. Hinkle also tabu- and/or down were restricted to a few categories
lated context and end uses for the textiles. Her of copper artifacts (1987:79). Finally, she reported
categories included fabric canopy, blanket, bag, that oblique interlacing was the most common
burial shroud, carbonized on charnel house covering on celts (1987:83).
floor, carbonized on mound floor, preserved on Comparison of data from these studies and
copper bracelet, preserved on copper ear spool, the present one is difficult because of (1) some-
and cane matting. The Hopewell site evidenced times idiosyncratic and poorly defined defini-
the largest number of variations, with 10 of the tions of fabric structure types; (2) in the case of
12 fabric structures. Seip samples included five studies that utilized Ohio Historical Society col-
of the variations. Tremper had three, including lections (all but White), analysis of samples that
the only example of countered compact twining. overlapped to an unknown extent with the one
Liberty/Harness specimens included only two reported herein; (3) the fact that most studies
variations. Ater, Fortney, Mound City, and Rock- included but were not limited to fabrics adher-
hold each produced only one or two fabric sam- ing to copper artifacts, and data usually were not
ples of a single structural variation. Besides the presented in such a way that fabrics associated
countered compact twining, three other varia- with copper could be singled out; and (4) while
tions were found in single specimens: oblique the present study included only fabrics associat-
interlacing, spiral interlinking, and weft-faced ed with copper celts, breastplates, and head-
plain weave, all of them from Hopewell. plates, other studies included fabrics associated
Ellanor P. White (1987) utilized a sample of with other types of copper artifacts such as but-
Hopewell mound group fabrics curated at the tons and beads.
Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago.
Her sample included 1,101 pieces of fabric, 490 THE PRESENT STUDY
of which were fragments on metal celts and
plates. The Field Museum collection includes The research reported in this chapter was
primarily the artifacts found with skeletons 260 part of a larger project conceived by Christopher
and 261, which had the largest collection of cop- Carr to employ a multidisciplinary approach to
per plates and celts of all the Ohio Hopewell the analysis of the full range of copper artifacts
sites. These two burials contained 90 copper held by the Ohio Historical Society in Columbus,
plates and 66 celts, with the plates broken into Ohio. The purpose of my study was to analyze
shapes similar to the mica forms, and then laid fabrics adhering to a variety of copper artifacts
on top of the skeletons with the edges touching from seven Hopewell sites (Figures 4.1 and 5.1),
(Christopher Carr, personal communication and to assess the possible function(s) of the fab-
2002). While some of White’s findings are similar rics; whether, for instance, the fabric remains
to those coming from studies of the Ohio Histor- were the result of bagging or wrapping before
ical Center collections, her data show some deposition or of clothing in contact with copper
unique occurrences in textile production. First, or some other purpose. Metallurgists, digital and
she reported fine, open fabrics of oblique inter- infrared imagists, and a paleobotanist, DeeAnne
lacing over 95 percent of the copper artifacts in Wymer, were also part of the team assembled by
her sample (1987:60). She concluded that all Carr. See Chapter 4, this volume, for Wymer’s
pieces of copper were wrapped in this fine gauge discussion of additional organic materials pre-
oblique interlacing before being interred. The served on these artifacts. Since the Carr study
reported yarn element mean diameter was 1 employed only textiles currently attached to cop-
mm. There were also examples of a coarser per artifacts, the sample does not consider car-
74 Virginia S. Wimberley
tem A yarns all lying in the same direction on sides, and 2 had yarns on one side.
both sides of the artifact. Determination of warp The sample is definitely skewed toward the
direction is dependent upon existence of a fin- Seip and Hopewell sites in the Scioto drainage.
ished edge or selveage. None of the fragments The other sites produced few examples of tex-
studied had such a finished edge; therefore, no tiles adhering to copper. Breastplates provided
fragments in this study were identified as warp the most textile evidence. A few celts were asso-
twined, unlike Hinkle’s study, which reported 18 ciated with textile remains or pseudomorphs.
warp twining examples, all from the Hopewell Headplates, originally thought to have evidence
site. Since some of the Hopewell artifacts were of associated textiles, universally proved to have
deposited in stacks, textile remains along the no fabric remains present.
edges of the artifact (while none were on the Eighty percent or greater coverage of an arti-
obverse and reverse sides) could still indicate a fact side by fabric was a rare occurrence, except
wrapping or bagging function, with the artifact for Seip breastplates. Only one celt had fabric on
perhaps coming from the middle of the stack. both sides. That, too, originated from the Seip
Additionally, it was thought that areal coverage site. Five out of ten breastplates from the
of 80 percent or greater would be associated with
bagging and wrapping functions. Burial shroud
function could also result in large areal coverage
but attributes of amount of fiber processing,
intricacy of interworking and patterning, and
one-sidedness may help differentiate clothing
function from bagging and wrapping end uses.
RESULTS
76 Virginia S. Wimberley
Figure 5.3. Fabrics on obverse and reverse sides of breastplate B071 (Carr designation). Top: Oblique inter-
lacing. Bottom: Spaced alternate-pair twined fabric. Photographs courtesy of Christopher Carr and Andrew D.W.
Lydecker. Breastplate courtesy of the Ohio Historical Society, Columbus.
78 Virginia S. Wimberley
Table 5.3 summarizes singles yarn and plied ses) do not overlap with those of the present
yarn diameters by sites. The coarser thread count study.
for the breastplate with the cremation remains Table 5.4 compares frequencies of fabric
raises the question of whether differences in fab- structure types reported by White (1987) in car-
ric fineness may be related to fabric function. bonized textiles and in textiles associated with
The majority of spaced alternate- pair twining copper against data from the present study, in
found in association with breastplates had fine which only fabrics associated with copper
yarns and high thread counts. Yarns and thread breastplates and celts were analyzed. The new
count are coarser in spaced alternate-pair twined data corroborate the above observations. It
fabrics probably used as wrappings to keep cre- would appear that fabric structure types in asso-
mation remains in place on the plate after the ciation with copper are more limited than the
cremation process. Could this indicate that the total known types from Ohio Hopewell sites. For
wrapping function for cremation was of less instance, in these samples close (compact) plain
importance and therefore required less-fine twining, present in a high proportion of car-
workmanship in the associated fabric? A survey bonized fabric fragments, is not in evidence
of textiles in association with cremation remains among fabrics associated with copper artifacts.
may prove useful. White reported fine oblique interlacing of
In reporting results from her study of Ohio one-millimeter diameter elements covering both
Historical Society fabric specimens from three sides of 95 percent of the 1,101 copper artifacts
Ohio Hopewell sites, Church (1984:10) noted and artifact fragments that she examined. She
that “some of the textiles . . . appear to be close- hypothesized that all the artifacts were wrapped
ly related to the distribution of copper,” but did in fine oblique interlacing and that the fabric
not tabulate fabric differences based on associa- played a functional role in artifact production.
tions with copper. However, data from White’s Color images made by Carr of copper items in
study of Hopewell site fabric fragments in the the Ohio Historical Society Hopewell collections
Field Museum collections (1987) do make that do show fine threads, but one cannot identify
distinction. White noted that “profoundly differ- any oblique interlacing pattern (Christopher
ent frequencies of textile construction are found Carr, personal communication 2002).
in the preserved fabrics and [in fabrics visible]
on copper” (1987:60). Data from her sample
(unlike data from most other published analy-
82 Virginia S. Wimberley
of the seventeen from Seip and one each from
the Hopewell and Rockhold sites have these
yarn anomalies (B009, B017, B029, B032, B035,
B036, B039, B040, B042, B078). With the lack of
provenience for many of the Hopewell artifacts,
the yarn anomalies may help to track which arti-
facts were bagged or wrapped together, or were
from the same burial with fragments of the same
garment or shroud. While it is recognized that
within-site provenience is problematical for the
majority of Ohio Hopewell artifacts, information
is available for some as to whether they were
part of a cache, or individually disposed. Future
work will include compiling archaeological
proveniences for the copper artifacts studied, to
ascertain whether they were in contact with a
skeleton or were part of a cache in a crematory
basin. Until that information can be added to the
textile data, function is difficult to assess. The
lack of fabric on both sides for many artifacts
may indicate that separate wrapping or bagging
was not done. There are examples of textile
remains on only the edges of plates that may
indicate that breastplates were stacked together
and then wrapped to keep them in place. Some
plates were associated with two or more layers
of the same fabric structure, which may indicate
folding of a larger piece of fabric to fit the sur-
face of the plate for ceremonial purposes. Where
matting and fabric occur on the same plate, the
fabric might be hypothesized to have served as
clothing or shroud if it can be established that
the plate was found beneath the body where it
was lying on a mat.
NOTES
84 Virginia S. Wimberley
Greber, N’omi. B., and Katherine C. Ruhl Shetrone, Henry, and Emerson Greenman
1989 Hopewell Site: A Contemporary Analysis Based 1931 Explorations of the Seip Group of Prehis-
on the Work of Charles C.Willoughby. West- toric Earthworks. Ohio Archaeological and
view Press, Boulder, Colorado. Historical Quarterly 40:343-509.
Hinkle, Kathleen A. Sibley, Lucy R.
1984 Ohio Hopewell Textiles: A Medium for the 1986 Use of Pseudomorphic Evidence in the
Exchange of Social and Stylistic Information. Reconstruction of Ancient Fabric Technolo-
Unpublished master’s thesis, University of gies. In 24th International Archaeometry Sym-
Arkansas, Fayetteville. posium, edited by J. S. Olin and M. J. Black-
Hurley, William M. man, pp. 153-163. Smithsonian Institution
1979 Prehistoric Cordage: Identification of Impres- Press Series, Washington, D.C.
sions on Pottery. Aldine Manuals on Archeol- Sibley, Lucy R., and Kathryn A. Jakes
ogy 3. Taraxacum, Washington, D.C.. 1989 Etowah Textile Remains and Cultural Con-
Jakes, Kathryn A., Hsiou-lien Chen, and Lucy R. Sib- text: A Model for Inference. Clothing and Tex-
ley tiles Research Journal 7(2):37-45.
1993 Toward the Development of a Classification Song, Cheunsoon A., Kathryn A. Jakes, and Richard
System for Plant Fibers. Ars Textrina 20:157- Yerkes
179. 1996 Seip Hopewell Textile Analysis and Cultur-
Minar, C. Jill al Implications. Midcontinental Journal of
2000 Spinning and Plying: Anthropological Archaeology 21(2):247-265.
Directions. In Beyond Cloth and Cordage: Weiner, Annette B., and Jane Schneider
Archaeological Textile Research in the Americas, 1989 Cloth and Human Experience. Smithsonian
edited by Penelope B. Drooker and Laurie Institution Press, Washington, D. C.
D. Webster, pp. 85-99. University of Utah White, Ellanor P.
Press, Salt Lake City. 1987 Excavating in the Field Museum: A Survey and
Moorehead, Warren King Analysis of Textiles from the 1891 Hopewell
1922 The Hopewell Mound Group of Ohio. Fiel- Mound. Masters Project, Department of His-
diana Anthropology 6(5):75-185. tory, Sangamon State University, Spring-
Ohio Historical Society field, Illinois.
1976 Blanket Restoration Nearing Completion. Whitford, Andrew. C.
Museum Echoes 15(3):4, 9. 1941 Textile Fibers Used in Eastern Aboriginal
Pacheco, Paul J. North America. Anthropological Papers of the
1996 Ohio Hopewell Regional Settlement Pat- American Museum of Natural History 38
terns. In A View from the Core: A Synthesis of (Pt.1):6-22.
Ohio Hopewell Archaeology, edited by Paul J. Willoughby, Charles C.
Pacheco, pp. 18-35. The Ohio Archaeologi- 1938 Textiles from the Burial Mounds of the
cal Council, Columbus, Ohio. Great Earthwork Builders of Ohio. The Ohio
Petersen, James B., and Jack A. Wolford State Archaeological and Historical Quarterly
2000 Spin and Twist as Cultural Markers: A New 47:273-287.
England Perspective on Native Fiber Indus- Wobst, H. Martin
tries. In Beyond Cloth and Cordage: Current 1977 Stylistic Behavior and Information
Approaches to Archaeological Textile Research Exchange. In Papers for the Director: Research
in the Americas, edited by Penelope B. Essay in Honor of James B. Griffin, edited by
Drooker and Laurie D. Webster, pp. 101-117. Charles E. Cleland, pp. 317-342. Museum of
University of Utah Press, Salt Lake City. Anthropology, Anthropological Papers No.
Prufer, Olaf H. 61. University of Michigan, Ann Arbor.
1965 The McGraw Site: A Study in Hopewellian Woodward, Susan L., and Jerry N. McDonald
Dynamics. Cleveland Museum of Natural 1986 Indian Mounds of the Middle Ohio Valley: A
History, Scientific Publications, 4(1), Cleve- Guide to Adena and Ohio Hopewell Sites. The
land. McDonald and Woodward Publishing
Company, Blacksburg, Virginia.
Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © 2004
by the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
89
or calendar years.
we apply these data to two problems. First, we We use the Middle Ohio Valley terminology
examine arguments for population replacement with reference to the chronology of the Monon-
versus population continuity during the Late gahela culture of the lower Upper Ohio River
Woodland period in the glaciated Allegheny Valley because the Monongahela archaeological
Plateau section in northwestern Pennsylvania. tradition, although not derived directly from the
Second, we assess evidence for the apparent downstream Eastern Fort Ancient culture, is
gradual dispersal of the late McFate phase peo- clearly closely related to it. As well, the preced-
ple from the glaciated Allegheny Plateau by the ing Late Woodland period in the lower Upper
early 16th century (see Figure 6.2 for a summary Ohio Valley seems to be more closely related to
of the time frame). We do this by examining sur- Late Woodland manifestations in the upper Mid-
rounding areas for evidence of the McFate phase dle Ohio Valley in settlement pattern, subsis-
peoples’ distinctive ceramics as well as other ele- tence strategies, and material culture than to
ments of their material culture — specifically the either the essentially contemporary late Middle
proxy evidence for their presence provided by Woodland or chronologically later Late Wood-
the preferred twist direction of the cordage pre- land complexes inside the terminal Wisconsinan
served as impressions on those ceramics. glacial moraine.
In investigating these problems, we employ Thus, for the lower Upper Ohio Valley, the
1,542 latex casts of cordage impressions on period from ca. A.D. 400–1050 (radiocarbon
sherds from 31 sites representing 38 terminal years) is termed “Late Woodland.” It is succeed-
Middle Woodland and Late Woodland compo- ed by the Late Prehistoric and Protohistoric peri-
nents in the glaciated and unglaciated portions od Monongahela culture, ca. A.D. 1050–1635 in
of the Allegheny Plateau section of northwestern radiocarbon years or, again, approximately A.D.
Pennsylvania and the adjacent Lake Erie Plain of 1150-1635 in calendar years (see Figure 6.2). Par-
Chautauqua County, New York. enthetically, it should be noted that the chrono-
logical chart in Figure 6.2 attempts to present
CHRONOLOGICAL FRAMEWORK phases and events in calendar years rather than
uncalibrated radiocarbon years, particularly
A word about regionally utilized chronologi- because the upper end of the various sequences
cal terminology will be helpful. In New York, presented are anchored in the Protohistoric peri-
northern Ohio, and northwestern Pennsylvania, od. In the remainder of this chapter, dates are
the “Late Woodland” period is considered to rendered in calendar years.
begin around A.D. 1000 in uncalibrated radio-
carbon years, which is equivalent to approxi- PREVIOUS CORDAGE TWIST
mately A.D. 1100 in calendar years. It is consid- DIRECTION AND ETHNICITY STUDIES
ered to persist until the appearance of European
trade goods or native-made items that can be Since the mid-1960s, archaeologists have
reasonably assigned to the last decade or two of been sporadically reporting the twist direction of
the 16th and to the early 17th centuries in the cordage impressions on Eastern Woodland
lower Great Lakes. In Middle Ohio River Valley ceramic sherds and noting chronological trends
parlance, however, “Late Woodland” is general- or differences within wares as well as between
ly understood to be the period between about geographic areas. For example, in Virginia, C. G.
A.D. 400 and A.D. 1050 in radiocarbon years, or Holland (1966) noted that the predominant final
approximately A.D. 550 to A.D. 1150 in calendar cordage twist direction displayed by an assem-
years. The period from A.D. 1150 to 1580/1590 in blage of Keyser Cord-Marked sherds from the
calendar years is referred to as the Late Prehis- Quicksburg site on the North Fork of the
toric period and the short interval to A.D. 1635 Shenandoah River was Z (see Z twist in Defini-
and the dispersal of the indigenous population tions). In southwestern Virginia, Holland (1970)
from the lower Upper Ohio Valley as the Proto- also noted that particular cordage twist direc-
historic period. tions were associated with certain ceramic types,
95
phase ceramics.
96 William C. Johnson and Andrew J. Myers
Figure 6.5. Distribution and frequency of final-S-twist cordage on Late Prehistoric and Protohistoric Johnson phase and mixed Kiskiminetas-
Johnston phase ceramics.
McFate site (36Cw1) for the Pennsylvania His- marked.
torical Commission, precise plan view maps, Most Middle Woodland ceramics from the
artifact catalogs, and curated artifacts with glaciated Allegheny Plateau are tempered with
provenience numbers are generally lacking. crushed igneous rock and are cord-marked,
Even the important McFate site has only recent- undecorated, and generally undiagnostic.
ly reached publication in an important review Ceramic assemblages of the late Middle Wood-
article (Burkett and Cunningham 1997). While land Intrusive Mound complex components in
ceramics from several more recent site excava- this region, however, often can be recognized by
tions reviewed below have been excavated with coarse cord-wrapped-paddle edge- or dowel-
more precision and have site maps and tight stamped impressions on the exterior surface in
provenience control of documented cultural fea- the sublip and/or neck areas of vessels. This dec-
tures and recovered artifacts, none have been oration is normally in the form of horizontal
published. Several ceramics collections were the bands of parallel oblique or opposed stamped
products of ad hoc salvage excavations that are impressions. Occasionally, low, thin added-on
unanalyzed or unreported. Fortunately, excava- collars or rim strips — essentially the Jack’s Reef
tions of sites beyond the glaciated Allegheny Corded Collar type — may be present in some
Plateau of northwestern Pennsylvania have been assemblages, particularly on the Mahoning
conducted with more precision, and the results River in the far southwestern corner of the
of the investigations and analysis often have glaciated Allegheny Plateau. These components
been published and certainly more widely circu- have been assigned to an Allegheny River phase
lated. (Lantz 1989) or, informally, by the senior author
The analysis of cordage twist direction pat- to an Edinburg phase after a site on the Mahoning
terns recovered from ceramic sherds from sites River with the largest documented Intrusive
on the glaciated Allegheny Plateau of northwest- Mound complex ceramic sample (Johnson et al.
ern Pennsylvania and beyond has proven to be 1979; Seeman 1992). Both we and Lantz are refer-
an important tool for discerning cultural conti- ring to the same phenomenon. These compo-
nuity in the glaciated Allegheny Plateau as well nents also are characterized by the presence of
as establishing, however preliminarily, a hypoth- Jack’s Reef Corner-Notched and Pentagonal,
esized pattern to the variety of Late Woodland Raccoon Notched, and Levanna projectile points
site types in northwestern Pennsylvania and sur- (see, for example, Lantz 1989; Seeman 1992).
rounding areas. Thus, we present a review of the Only five sites from the study area display
Late Woodland period sequence on the glaciated Intrusive Mound complex components with
Allegheny Plateau of northwestern Pennsylva- associated ceramics, and only two of these
nia with passing observations on surrounding appear to exhibit more-or-less pure Intrusive
areas where they are pertinent to better under- Mound complex ceramic components. This
stand the importance of our cordage twist direc- study samples one of these two components,
tion data. Without these cordage twist data, Port-Melnick (36Er31) on French Creek. Data
many aspects of the Late Woodland sequence in from a second site, Bolinger (36Lr21), located on
northwestern Pennsylvania could not be demon- the Mahoning River directly opposite the afore-
strated. mentioned Edinburg site, are also presented.
This latter site, however, exhibits a ceramic
MIDDLE WOODLAND assemblage representing at least three Woodland
components; therefore, the majority of the
Middle and early Late Woodland pottery in cordage twist data, derived largely from undiag-
the glaciated Allegheny Plateau section of north- nostic cord-marked body sherds, cannot be
western Pennsylvania is generally termed ascribed specifically to either the Edinburg or the
Mahoning ware (Mayer-Oakes 1955). This early Late Woodland Mahoning phase compo-
broadly defined type is tempered with pulver- nents.
ized igneous rock. It is almost exclusively cord-
103
the ceramics (Schock 1974). With one exception, Mountain section of north-central Pennsylvania
shell-tempered simple-stamped pottery has not were examined for comparative purposes.
been documented at any site on the glaciated All five of the early Late Woodland Mahon-
Allegheny Plateau of northwestern Pennsylva- ing ware components displayed predominantly
nia. final-S-twist cordage as did the grit-tempered
Westfield Cord-Marked ceramics from the West-
PROTOHISTORIC field-Mac type site (Table 6.1). Where samples
were adequate, the frequency of final-S-twist
At the Crowe-O’Connor site (36Cw39/61) in cordage on Mahoning Cord-Marked ceramics
the French Creek Valley, shell-tempered simple- ranged from 66.7 percent at the Bolinger site to
stamped and undecorated ceramics with deeply 93.8 percent at the Wansack site (Figure 6.3).
scalloped lips were recovered with fragments of Notably, the one sample that deviates from this
Iroquoian Acorn ring-bowl pipes (Johnson et al. pattern, and in fact from the predominant final-
1979). This site represents the final indigenous S-twist pattern for the glaciated Allegheny
Woodland occupation in the glaciated Allegheny Plateau, is that derived from the Intrusive
Plateau and arguably dates to the Protohistoric Mound complex Port-Melnick site. There, final-
period based on the presence of the Acorn or Z-twist cordage impressions were documented
Bulbous ring-bowl pipes (Johnson 1994a, 1999a), at a frequency of 65.6 percent. Although the sam-
which are documented on Protohistoric Seneca ple from the Port-Melnick site is small and could
sites between ca. A.D. 1585/1595 and 1655 (see be skewed, approximately half of the casts were
Johnson 2001c; Wray et al. 1991). None of derived from rim sherds each representing a
Schock’s (1974) Chautauqua phase sites display unique vessel. This fact may indicate a diversity
Acorn ring-bowl pipes, nor do any of the hilltop of cordage-making traditions associated with the
earthworks in the Cattaraugus Creek and Upper late Middle Woodland groups of this part of the
Allegheny River Valley (e.g., Guthe 1958; Louns- French Creek Valley. If this pattern is duplicated
berry 1997). These facts argue persuasively that in other, larger Intrusive Mound complex
the Crowe-O’Conner site component dates to the cordage assemblages, it could indicate that there
Protohistoric period and is the latest document- is a population discontinuity between the late
ed occupation on the glaciated Allegheny Middle Woodland Intrusive Mound complex
Plateau in both northwestern Pennsylvania and Edinburg phase groups and the slightly later
adjacent southwestern New York. It is not cer- early Late Woodland Mahoning phase people
tain whether this component represents the ter- Casts of cordage impressions were also ana-
minal GAP tradition occupation on the glaciated lyzed from two contemporaneous Mead Island
Allegheny Plateau or, rather, a Protohistoric components on the valley floor of the Middle
Chautauqua phase intrusion from the north. Allegheny River. In contrast to the pattern man-
ifested by the Mahoning phase components, the
RESULTS OF CORDAGE TWIST aggregate sample for the Indian Camp Run site
ANALYSIS exhibited final-Z-twist cordage at a frequency of
75.2 percent. This was essentially duplicated by
For this study the authors have analyzed a small sample from the nearby Taylor site (Table
1,542 cordage casts from 31 sites representing 6.1, Figure 6.3).
two terminal Middle Woodland and 36 Late Casts from six sites with shell-tempered
Woodland components from the glaciated and French Creek and McFate phase ceramics from
unglaciated portions of the Allegheny Plateau in the glaciated Allegheny Plateau of northwestern
northwestern Pennsylvania and from the Lake Pennsylvania and adjacent Lake Erie Plain of
Plain in adjacent Chautauqua County, New York Chautauqua County, New York, display pre-
(Figure 6.1). An additional 137 impressions from dominantly final-S-twist cordage impressions.
the Quiggle site on the West Branch of the Where samples were adequate, the frequency of
Susquehanna River in the inner Appalachian S-twist cordage ranges from 56.5 percent at the
Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © 2004
by the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
Chapter 7 Cordage, Fabrics, and Their Use in the Manufacture of Early Late Prehistoric Ceramic Vessels in NY 129
analysis to assess individual vessels’ areas of ori- Snow (1995) suggests that evidence of this
gin and the reciprocal exchange of vessels migration can be seen in changes in the artifacts
throughout the region (Rieth 2002b). manufactured by these prehistoric populations.
In this chapter, I provide a brief overview of Among the most visible changes are the replace-
the results of my research in order to show how ment of poorly constructed coil manufactured
cordage and fabric attributes can be used in con- pots by more refined paddle and anvil manufac-
junction with other ceramic attributes to recon- tured pots. Cord-marking continues to be the
struct the manufacturing techniques of early Late primary type of decoration used on these con-
Prehistoric potters in the Susquehanna Valley of tainers. However, Snow (1995) suggests that dif-
New York. The results of this project suggest that ferences in the types of cordage used by Point
early Late Prehistoric potters in the Susquehanna Peninsula and Owasco groups can be expected.
Valley of New York utilized similar types of mate-
rials throughout this 600-year period. EARLY LATE PREHISTORIC CERAMICS
Chapter 7 Cordage, Fabrics, and Their Use in the Manufacture of Early Late Prehistoric Ceramic Vessels in NY 131
Figure 7.1. Map showing the location of sites in the project area.
Whitney and Gibson 1987). The remaining 12 major tributaries (Figure 7.1). Two clusters of
sites (Table 7.2) are associated with the Owasco sites exist within the larger valley. One cluster of
tradition. Boland (Prezzano 1992; Prezzano and sites is found near the modern city of Oneonta,
Rieth 2001), Chenango Point (Wurst and Versag- along the valley floor, valley walls, and sur-
gi 1993), Apalachian Creek (Shapiro n.d.), rounding upland areas. As I have argued else-
Orchard Knoll (Moorehead 1938), Roundtop where (Rieth 2002a), this area probably served as
(Ritchie and Funk 1973), and Castle Creek (Prez- an important resource procurement area for the
zano and Rieth 2001; Ritchie 1934, 1994) are large native populations of the Susquehanna Valley.
village sites. Wessels (Oskam 1999), Egli (Hesse The area contains several smaller microenviron-
1975), Jamba (Whitney 1975), Cider Mill, Hilltop ments that would have provided a diverse array
(Hill 1938; Ritchie 1994), and River-Street (Ver- of resources, including tubers, reeds, and grasses
saggi and Jones 1988) are small seasonal camps that could have been collected for use as food
and resource-processing stations. and medicinal items, and for the production of
These 16 sites are concentrated along the mats and baskets. Feathers and hides from birds
main branch of the Susquehanna River and its and mammals living in the region could have
Assessment of the chemical composition of The results of this project generated impor-
ceramic sherds presented a unique challenge tant information about the cord and fabric
during this project, because the casting material impressions found on early Late Prehistoric ves-
used to record cordage attributes left residues on sels in the Upper Susquehanna Valley of New
the exterior surface of the sherds. Since trace ele- York. The following section summarizes the
ment composition was measured from the exte- results of this work and presents information
rior surface, residues left by the casting materials regarding the fabrics identified on both Point
had the potential to alter the measured chemical Peninsula and Owasco vessels.
composition of a sherd by inflating concentra-
tions of some elements and deflating concentra- POINT PENINSULA CERAMICS
tions of others. In one test case, the residues left
by the casting material resulted in a composi- Point Peninsula vessels are largely cord-
tional profile that was completely unrelated to marked and fabric impressed containers with
the composition of the sherd (Figure 7.3). outflaring rims and a round or “beveled” lip
For the purpose of this project, the solution shape with a coarse (2-3 mm) grit and crushed
to this problem was trifold. First, trace element crystalline (e.g. quartz, quartzite) temper (Table
composition was recorded from the sherd before 7.1). Thirty-four percent of the containers exhib-
a cast was made. This allowed sherds to be ana- it evidence of “coil breaks,” suggesting that these
lyzed without the threat of other materials being containers were constructed by coiling (Rice
introduced into the analysis process. Second, the 1987). Although the majority of the containers
number of sherds from which casts were made exhibit cord-marked designs, additional types of
was reduced from that initially proposed, reduc- decoration, including dentate stamping, were
ing the number of affected sherds. In instances identified on four vessels from the White and
where individual vessels were represented by Ouleout Creek assemblages, suggesting that pot-
single sherds, no casts were made. Instead, ters may have used multiple techniques.
cordage attributes were recorded from the sur- More than half of the vessels contain one or
face of the sherd as previously described. Third, more cord-marked designs around the neck and
a comprehensive list of all of the cast sherds was exterior rim of the vessel. In a few instances, the
prepared and left with each collection so that interior rim of the container also contained
future researchers would be aware of potential oblique lines that were probably applied using a
alterations to the sherd after excavation. cord-wrapped paddle or stick. The cords used in
While I am not proposing that archaeologists the decoration of these containers are fairly
abandon the use of casts in the study of cordage homogeneous, with double-ply cords appearing
and fabrics impressed on pottery, I would twice as often as single-ply cords (Table 7.1). As
encourage other researchers to be conscious of seen in Table 7.1, each of the assemblages con-
the effects that particular methods have on the tains a preponderance of cords that were largely
collection of other types of data and what impact S-spun with a final Z twist (see Definitions). The
these methods could have on future ceramic average cord diameter was 1.94 mm. Most of
studies. Potential detrimental effects include these cords contained a moderate angle of twist,
contamination of a sherd’s chemical composition with the number of twists per centimeter rang-
and, with some non-solid casting materials, ing from three to eight.
physical penetration of the sherd surface. When The majority of the designs appear to have
the collection of one type of data has the poten- been impressed using a cord-wrapped stick or
tial to hinder collection of some other type of paddle (Figure 7.2). A vessel from the White site
data, it may be necessary to choose between contains evidence that cords were wrapped
them. around a much larger, unidentified object (per-
Chapter 7 Cordage, Fabrics, and Their Use in the Manufacture of Early Late Prehistoric Ceramic Vessels in NY 135
Figure 7.3. Differences in trace element profiles of two sherds from the same vessel. The profile from the uncast-
ed sherd is shown at the top. It displays concentrations (as represented by peak counts of elements) similar to
those found in other non-casted sherds. The profile from the casted sherd is shown on the bottom. It displays
inflated concentrations of some elements and decreased concentrations of other elements.
The elements represented in both profiles include yttrium (Y), iron (Fe), zirconium (Zr), and barium (Ba).
OWASCO CERAMICS
Chapter 7 Cordage, Fabrics, and Their Use in the Manufacture of Early Late Prehistoric Ceramic Vessels in NY 137
Like the Point Peninsula vessels, the majori-
ty of the Owasco containers exhibit impressions
of twined or interlinked fabrics along the body
and base of the container. Twining, which
appeared on approximately 85 percent of the
containers, is the most common fabric structure
found on the vessels (Table 7.2). Although open
twining was most common, close twining was
observed on some pots. Weft-faced (close-
twined) fabrics are most numerous on vessels
from the Apalachian Creek and Castle Creek
sites. Most of the cords that were used in the con-
struction of the interlinked fabrics contain a final
Z twist.
The trace element profiles of the pots suggest
that most of these containers were locally manu-
factured, with the largest number of foreign
manufactured pots appearing at the Cider Mill
and River-Street sites. The sites are located near
the eastern and western boundaries of the
Susquehanna Valley along the “fringe of the
Figure 7.5. Owasco Corded Horizontal vessel from
Owasco territory” (Figure 7.1). Given the short
Feature 52 at the Street site. (Photograph reproduced
Chapter 7 Cordage, Fabrics, and Their Use in the Manufacture of Early Late Prehistoric Ceramic Vessels in NY 139
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Impressions Left on Long Island. Archaeolo-
gy of Eastern North America 2:94-98.
An earlier version of this paper was prepared Chapman, Jefferson, and James A. Adovasio
for a working group session entitled “Impressed 1977 Textile and Basketry Impressions from Ice-
Pottery: Problems and Solutions for the Recov- house Bottom, Tennessee. American Antiqui-
ery of Data from Cord and Fabric Impressed Pot- ty 42:620-625.
tery” at the 64th Annual Meeting of the Society Chilton, Elizabeth A.
for American Archaeology, Chicago. The session 1999 Ceramic Research in New England: Break-
was organized by Jill Minar and I thank her for ing the Typological Mold. In The Archaeolog-
the opportunity to present an initial version this ical Northeast, edited by Maryann Levine,
paper as part of the working group session. I Kenneth. E. Sassaman, and Michael Nas-
also thank Penelope Drooker for the opportunity saney, pp. 97-111. Bergin Garvey, Westport,
Connecticut.
to publish an updated version of this paper in
the current volume. The comments of the two Dincauze, Dena F.
anonymous reviewers are appreciated and 1975 Ceramic Sherds from the Charles River
helped to strengthen this paper. The collections Basin. Bulletin of the Archaeological Society of
Connecticut 39:5-17.
discussed in this chapter are curated at the New
York State Museum in Albany, Public Archaeolo- Dincauze, Dena F., and Robert Hasenstab
gy Facility at Binghamton University, Rochester 1989 Explaining the Iroquois: Tribalization on a
Museum and Science Center, Roland B. Hill Prehistoric Periphery. In Centre and Periph-
ery: Comparative Studies in Archaeology, edit-
Museum in Otego, and Yager Museum in
ed by Timothy C. Champion, pp. 67-87.
Oneonta. Lisa Anderson, Nina Versaggi, David
Unwin and Hymen, London.
Anthony, and Bette Prisch provided access to
Doyle, Richard A., Nathan D. Hamilton, and James B.
these collections. Anne Chojnacki produced the
Petersen
drawings of the ceramic sherds. X-ray floures-
1982 Early Woodland Ceramics and Associated
cence analysis was completed at the Department
Perishable Industries from Southwestern
of Physics, Accelerator Laboratory, University at Maine. Maine Archaeological Society Bulletin
Albany, SUNY. All errors and omissions are the 22(2):4-21.
responsibility of the author. Drooker, Penelope B.
1990 Textile Production and Use at Wickliffe
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tion and Analysis. Aldine Publishing Com-
Emery, Irene
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ed Classification. The Textile Museum, Wash-
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in Honor of Jesse D. Jennings, edited by Carol 1993 Subsistence, Settlement and Seasonality. In
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versity of Utah Press, Salt Lake City. Susquehanna Valley, New York State, vol. 1,
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simmon Press Monographs in Archaeology,
1980 Basketry, Cordage and Bark Impressions
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Virginia Archaeologist 30:33-72. 2002 Northeast Settlement and Subsistence Change,
Browning, Kurt A.D. 700-1300. New York State Museum
Bulletin No. 496, The University of the State
1974 Indian Textiles as Reconstructed from the
of New York, Albany.
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Prezzano, Susan. C., and Christina B. Rieth. Scholtz, Sandra Clements
2001 Late Prehistoric Cultures of the Upper 1975 Prehistoric Plies: A Structural and Comparative
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2002a Early Late Prehistoric Settlement and Sub- Report prepared for the Village of Owego,
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Whallon, Robert
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pp. 199-213. ACS Books, Washington, D.C. 1975 The Jamba Site, Nrh-6, 1974-1975. Bulletin 2.
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Creek, Broome County, New York. Research Whitney, Theodore, and Stanford Gibson
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Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © 2004
by the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
with purple mussel?) and cordage, then the axis of the child’s body. This suggests that the
child’s skeleton (perhaps clothed in a piece may have been constructed, in part, with
hide/leather garment?), followed by additional weft twining (Figure 8.3).
(or the same?) strand of shell and long cop- Fabric No. 1 was a combination of open sim-
per/brass tubular beads. As preserved, another ple twining and simple plaiting (see Definitions).
hide covered the mass, with the hair topmost. Every third weft row was twined (see Figure
This configuration suggests that the child had 8.4). Between twined rows were two plaited
been wrapped with strings of beads and, based rows. All of the weft and warp elements were of
on modern comparisons, blanketed above and comparable dimensions and none appeared to
below with moose hides. Finally, the wrapped have been spun. The rows of twining were
body was placed on Fabric No. 1. The organic spaced 14.90–18.30 mm apart (mean spac-
mass, including the fabric, exhibited cop- ing=16.50 mm). The plaited (interlaced) wefts
per/brass staining and was undoubtedly pre- were more closely spaced, 0.0–11.15 mm apart,
served because of the large copper/brass beads with a mean value of 5.38 mm.
or a larger specimen of copper/brass, no longer Individual weft elements were 1.45–3.45 mm
present. in diameter, with a mean value of 2.22 mm. The
Fabric No. 1 measured about 188 mm across combined set of two twining elements was
the weft rows and 62–140 mm or more across the 2.90–4.70 mm in diameter, with a mean of 3.54
warp rows. It was the largest fiber perishable mm. The plaiting elements parallel to the twin-
preserved at either site, although one of the com- ing rows interlaced in a simple over-one, under-
posite hide and bark constructions was close to it one (1/1) structure. Individual diameters were
in size. The weft rows in Fabric No. 1 ran direct- 1.85–3.20 mm, with a mean value of 2.54 mm.
ly perpendicular, and the warps parallel, to the Thus, as preserved, this specimen incorporated
open simple twining combined with plaiting. in the two preserved weft rows (n=22 and n=33),
The warp elements perpendicular to the twining no obvious evidence of weft splices was dis-
ranged from 1.55 to 4.70 mm in diameter, with a cerned. Given the nature of the fibers employed
mean value of 2.99 mm. and the loose construction, this was once a some-
The twining wefts were twisted together in what delicate, open, and flexible fabric. Compa-
the Z direction (i.e., had a Z weft slant). The raw rable specimens exhibiting combinations of fine
material of all elements seemed similar, appear- open twining and plaiting are known from sev-
ing to be some sort of inner bark. Originally, eral other Contact period sites in Massachusetts
these elements might have been retted or other- and Rhode Island, where at least one has been
wise disaggregated before use. Some of the lon- called a “mantle” (Bower 1980:Fig. 77; Gibson
gitudinal splitting and cracking of the fibers may 1980:140-141; Willoughby 1935:247, Fig. 133d).
have been due to degradation and weathering in The “Burial 205” fabric, or Fabric No. 2, was
the archaeological environment. Based on visual preserved as a much smaller fragment than Fab-
comparison with modern samples, this fabric ric No. 1, only about 47.80 x 15.25 mm in size
appears to have been made using a cedar-like (Figure 8.5). Association with other artifacts or
inner-bark fiber, perhaps white cedar (Thuja occi- human remains had been lost by the time it was
dentalis). There was no observable “start,” center, examined, and it is impossible to ascertain any
or selvage, but it was obvious that the plaited relationship to the three children in Burial 205
(interlaced) wefts were simply laid in as desired (aged newborn to several months, several
under a “warp” (plaited) element, twisted months to 1.5 years, and 2.5–3.5 years). It was
approximately 45°, then obliquely tucked in preserved by proximity to a copper/brass head-
under two “warps.” Among the weft crossings band, long tubular copper/brass beads, and/or
an iron trade axe found in this burial, but the As originally constituted, it would also have
details of this association have been lost (see been delicate, open, and flexible. Other examples
Willoughby 1935:234). are known within the region, although they are
Fabric No. 2 contained one weft row with of variable size and coarseness (e.g., Willoughby
twining twists that engaged eight warp ele- 1935:Fig. 133a).
ments, but only small fragments of warp ele- The “Burial 206” fabric, or Fabric No. 3, was
ments remained. It appears that all elements the smallest fabric specimen in the sample, and
were of uniform size (Figure 8.5). Given the lack although it has been described as a “fabric” here,
of preserved wefts on either side of the single it might more properly be called a selvage (Fig-
preserved weft row, it is probable that Fabric No. ure 8.6). This specimen, too, was found separat-
2 was an open simple twined construction. Weft ed from any human remains, so its location rela-
and warp elements were not twisted. The two tive to the two children in Burial 206 (aged 3.5 to
weft elements were twined around single warp 4.5 and 4 to 5 years) is unknown. It is likely that
elements, with a Z weft slant. Individual weft preservation was due to the proximity of tubular
elements ranged from 1.10 to 3.50 mm in diame- copper/brass beads.
ter, with a mean value of 2.26 mm. The combined Fabric No. 3 was only about 17.15 x 14.40
diameter of the weft row ranged from 3.10 to mm in size. It was a composite construction con-
4.75 mm, with a mean value of 3.71 mm. The sisting of cedar-like elements twined around
warps ranged from 1.30 to 3.00 mm in diameter, worked hide or leather elements. Only four
with a mean value of 2.12 mm. Fabric No. 2 hide/leather “warps” and one fiber weft row
appeared to have been made from a bark-like were preserved. The hide/leather warps seem to
material, probably white cedar like Fabric No. 1. have been attached to a larger piece of solid
CORDAGE
Figure 8.10. Other Composite Artifact No. 2 from Burial 205 at the Sandy Point site, showing porcupine quill that
had been wrapped or stitched around a now-missing foundation.
decorated with marine shell beads stitched direct- The hide/leather may have been overlapped
ly onto it (Figure 8.11). It was preserved as a rela- and tucked beneath the chin of the child to
tively large organic mass, about 146.70 x 88.10 enfold its post-cranial remains. At least ten ribs,
mm in overall size, and was intimately associated two clavicles and a sternum indicate that the
with the remains of two children, one aged 7–8 upper torso of one child was present. In fact, it
years and the other apparently an infant. Once may be that Other Composite Artifact No. 3 rep-
again, copper/brass staining covered outer por- resents a shirt or tunic worn by the child at bur-
tions of this specimen, indicating that association ial. The hide/leather varied from 1.00–1.30 mm
with copper/brass was the preservative agent. in thickness, and possibly more across its full
Another hide/leather covering apparently extent. Although more could be learned by fur-
encased the “garment,” since at least one relative- ther dismantling the mass, it was left undis-
ly large fragment was present that had evidence turbed at the wishes of the culturally affiliated
of red ocher on its presumed exterior and the tribes.
impressions of fine shell beads on its interior. This Perhaps the most remarkable attribute of this
covering was visible on the exterior of the mass in probable garment was preservation of a complex
a few places. Fragments of a copper/brass kettle pattern of marine shell beads stitched onto its
and tubular copper/brass beads with this burial obverse/outer surface. The shell came from two
help account for the fine quality of its preserva- marine species, fashioned into thick white speci-
tion. mens that were presumably Mercenaria mercenar-
The younger child’s mandible was preserved ia or quahog, and thin, purplish beads from the
in situ on one (upper?) end of the organic mass. mussel Mytilus edulis. Identification of the pur-
Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © 2004
by the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
Chapter 9 Textiles and Leather in Southeastern New England Archaeological Sites 169
Figure 9.1. Locations of five southern New England archaeological sites from which archaeologists retrieved
textile and leather fragments.
mission and Brown University excavated the hydroxyethyl cellulose solution, and stored in
graves of 56 individuals buried between 1650 individual mounts, which have protected the
and 1670. The RI 1000 site yielded a wide variety fragments very well.
of Native-made and European textiles, plus a Linda Welters (1985) analyzed the European-
piece of deerskin. These survived due to proxim- made textiles from the site using a simplified
ity to copper and iron objects, which mitigate version of the “Textile Attribute Dimensions”
microbial degradation. The surviving textiles form presented in Chapter Two of Beyond Cloth
included wool, cotton, and native plant fibers. and Cordage: Archaeological Textile Research in the
At the site, the textiles were wetted with a 5 Americas (Kuttruff and Strickland-Olsen 2000:43-
percent aqueous glycerin solution, bagged, and 50). Welters identified 32 different fabrics from
refrigerated in preparation for freeze-drying. In the 80 fragments. Most of these are plain- and
the lab, the textile fragments were humidified to twill-woven wool; a few, such as the fragment
flatten them, soaked in an aqueous thymol bath shown in Figure 9.2, were cotton. After compar-
to kill bacteria, washed in a 5 percent ethanolic ing the fabrics with documentary sources, Wel-
glycerin solution, consolidated with ethyl ters associated them with contemporaneous
Chapter 9 Textiles and Leather in Southeastern New England Archaeological Sites 171
combination of yellow and blue. Rebecca John- because the Tribal Council planned to re-inter
son-Dibb and Margaret Ordoñez (1996) analyzed the contents of the graves.
91 of the RI 1000 fragments representing a vari- The Mashantucket Pequots used European
ety of colors from 14 graves. Using chromatogra- textiles and some Native-made matting as
phy and spectrophotometry for mordant dyes shrouds and grave linings (Ordoñez et al. 1991).
and a reduction test for indigotin, they identified The 122 extant European textile fragments were
indigotin in 28 specimens, madder in 27, and of coarse- to medium-quality wool. The wool
possibly kermes in 2 (see Definitions for named fibers included a variety of diameters with a
dyestuffs). The historic record confirms that greater percentage of large fibers (Figure 9.3)
Native Americans had a preference for blue and than would be seen in European fabrics a centu-
red fabrics (Gookin 1970 [1792]:17; Montgomery ry later (Welters et al. 1996). The most frequently
1984:159, 228). observed colors of fibers under a light micro-
Some of the fabrics from RI 1000 survived scope were red and green (blue dyed over yel-
due to the mineralization process. Both positive low). All of the fragments were plain weave
and negative pseudomorphs3 (see also Defini- except for two twill weaves and four stockinette-
tions) had formed on iron and copper alloy stitch knits. A protein matrix adhering to the sur-
objects as well as non-metallic surfaces such as face of two matting fragments could have come
matting and pipes (Coho 1996). Sometimes both from skins or furs.
forms of pseudomorphs occurred in the same The locations of wampum band fragments in
fragment indicating different microenviron- the graves implied that they had served as head-
ments in close proximity. The surfaces of some bands, sashes, and bracelets (Figure 9.4). Sinew
negative pseudomorphs preserve impressions of made up the longitudinal elements of the
scales on wool fibers, meaning that the scales wampum bands with pairs of two-ply, Z-twist
remained intact during the process that formed Indian hemp yarns holding copper and quahog
the molds around the fibers.4 Most scales on the shell beads in place between the rows of sinew.
extant wool fibers in the two 17th-century ceme- This site produced mineralized wool (Figure
tery sites had been degraded completely by con- 9.5) and cotton fabrics (Ordoñez 1992). The
ditions in the soil (Figure 9.3). The surfaces of the plain-weave cotton fragments were similar to
positive pseudomorphs are similar to those of those in the seventeenth-century privy that will
the unmineralized fibers. The pseudomorphs be discussed next. The finest wool textile from
duplicated some of the extant fabrics identified the Long Pond site survived because of corro-
by Welters (1985) and also preserved others that sion products that covered the surface of the fab-
had not survived in the graves. ric before the fibers degraded (Welters et al.
1996:225-228). Found inside the bowl of an iron
LONG POND, A MASHANTUCKET ladle, the fabric was wrapped around a bear
PEQUOT CEMETERY IN LEDYARD, claw and a folded page from a London edition of
CONNECTICUT a King James Version Bible (Figures 9.6 and 9.7)
(Hugh Amory, personal communication 1992).
Located above a lake on the Mashantucket Tarleton and Ordoñez (1995) surveyed pub-
Pequot Reservation that had been established in lished reports for methods to treat archaeological
1667, this cemetery dates from 1670 to 1720. textiles, and set up experiments to compare
Again, construction equipment revealed burials, ways of cleaning, consolidating, and drying bur-
destroying as many as 20 of them before the Pub- ial textiles from wet sites. Using wool fabrics
lic Archaeology Survey Team at the University of degraded by burial in representative southern
Connecticut and the Mashantucket Pequot Trib- New England soil, they found that wet cleaning
al Council received notification. This team exca- them with a non-ionic surfactant removed more
vated 21 graves that could have been disturbed soil and mold than water or ethanol, but the
by further construction. The excavated frag- abrasion created by moving the cleaning solu-
ments received no conservation treatment tion around the fabric and rinsing three times
weakened the textiles. All treatments that idant added structural stability to the samples,
involved immersion of the burial textiles in a liq- but also coated clumps of soil and mold on the
uid resulted in soil redeposition, with the solvent textiles. All of the air-dried samples became
method causing the most repositioning of soil stiffer and experienced more shrinkage than
between fibers. The researchers also tested wool those that were freeze-dried.
fabrics soaked in a 1.0 percent ethyl hydrox- An investigation of freeze-drying layers of
yethyl cellulose (Ethulose) solution. This consol- wet new wool fabric versus air-drying found
Figure 9.5. Plain-weave wool fabric preserved by corrosion products (scale below fragment is 1 inch square)
(Long Pond 19-12-12B).
Chapter 9 Textiles and Leather in Southeastern New England Archaeological Sites 173
Figure 9.6. Coating of corrosion products preserved the shape of a fine wool fabric covering a page of a Bible
(height of letter “W” is 1.0 mm) (Long Pond 18-2-72). Bottom: Detail.
that air-drying without freezing caused less fiber probably produced separate contexts that miner-
damage and fabric shrinkage (Fischer 1998). alized cellulosic materials and preserved wool,
Freezing wet wool to -85°C caused surface dam- silk, and leather (Doug Currie, personal commu-
age to fibers. When air-drying is not feasible, nication 2002). The presence of silk was particu-
vacuum drying at 30°C drying temperature and larly surprising. Silk from New England archaeo-
freeze-drying by freezing to -20°C with a 30°C logical sites is rare. Known examples include one
shelf temperature are acceptable drying meth- strip of silk trim with a silver-wrapped-core yarn
ods. that survived from a 1650–1675 Wampanoag
cemetery at Burr’s Hill in Warren, Rhode Island
CROSS STREET BACK LOT PRIVY, (Gibson 1980:153), and a few silk fragments from
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS another Big Dig privy, discussed below.
The fibrous materials were kept wet until
An archaeological survey in 1992 for the they were consolidated with an ethyl hydrox-
Central Artery Project — the “Big Dig” — locat- yethyl cellulose solution and polyethylene glycol
ed this privy in Boston’s North End (Lewis (molecular weight (1450) and frozen prior to
2001). The well-to-do family of Katherine Nanny freeze-drying. Concreted fragments were treated
Nailer used the privy from the 1660s until a clay with a chelating agent (EDTA) to remove iron
seal was installed in 1709. The excavating team corrosion products.
from Timelines, Inc., and John Milner Associates, The 14 wool fabrics are of high quality, with
Inc., did not expect to find textiles in the large high fabric counts (Figure 9.8), tightly spun
brick-lined vault and had not budgeted for the yarns, and/or heavy fulling — a finish that com-
recovery of leather and fabrics. They found 161 pacts a woven wool fabric to increase its density
fragments from 82 textiles, 20 yarns, and over 60 (Ordoñez and Welters 1998). Finding 35 different
leather pieces. silk fabrics corroborates the fact that the eco-
Microenvironments sealed by layers of clay nomic status of the family was high enough for
Chapter 9 Textiles and Leather in Southeastern New England Archaeological Sites 175
Figure 9.8. Wool 2/2 twill-weave fabric (scale in mm) (Cross Street 6519/38,004).
them to wear silk lawfully in a Puritan town reg- ucts occurred in sections of the privy as it had in
ulated by sumptuary laws. Further support of the two 17th-century cemeteries. Most of the
the hypothesis that this was a fashion-conscious pseudomorphs had been wool fabric; more
family includes fragments such as a silk gauze, a unusual were the pseudomorphs of cotton cloth
silk knit, a patterned silk ribbon with metallic (Figure 9.13). Merchants imported cotton fabrics
trim (Figure 9.9), and a strip of silk bobbin lace, to Boston in the second half of the century
plus expensive mixtures of silk and wool (Figure (Baumgarten 1975:230-233). Corrosion products
9.10) and silk with either cotton or flax (the miss- preserved six plain-weave cotton fragments but
ing cellulosic fibers precluded identification). no linen, although bast-fiber sewing thread in
Many of the 22 types of ribbons are short scraps soles of shoes survived due to mineralization
with straight-cut ends, suggesting that they (Figure 9.14).
came from trimming dresses and accessories From the 60 pieces of leather from the privy,
(Figure 9.11). The silk ribbons and two-thirds of Jeffrey Butterworth (1998) reassembled three
the silk fabrics are unbalanced plain weaves children’s and two adults’ shoes. Working in the
probably called taffeta or lustring (Figure 9.12). Textile Conservation Laboratory at URI with
Unlike the fabrics from the two 17th-century guidance from Doug Currie, he reassembled
sites discussed earlier, the wool and silk fabrics parts of shoes that are among the earliest extant
from the privy include many elements of cloth- examples of American footwear, representing
ing construction. Someone sewed seams (Figure both high and common styles (Figure 9.15). But-
9.12), pleats, hems, and trims with two-ply silk terworth carved ethafoam mounts and covered
thread in a variety of stitches. One lightweight them with fabric to support each of the recon-
silk fabric fragment resembles the lower section structed shoes. He also reassembled a working
of a full sleeve. man’s shoe and an elegant boot from another
Mineralization of fibers by corrosion prod- North Boston site, the 19th-century Mill Pond.
Figure 9.10. Single wool fibers and grouped silk filaments of a 2-ply yarn (diameter of silk filaments averages
0.013 mm) (Cross Street 6647/38,123).
Chapter 9 Textiles and Leather in Southeastern New England Archaeological Sites 177
Figure 9.11. Ribbon fragments with cut edges, left over from trimming gowns or accessories (greater widths are
3.4 cm) (Cross Street 6863/38,132).
Figure 9.12. Figure-eight stitch along a butted seam of an unbalanced plain-weave silk fabric; note horizontal
rib created by high warp yarn count (scale in mm) (Cross Street 6467/37,783).
Figure 9.14. Mineralized bast-fiber yarns in stitch holes of shoe sole (scale in mm) (Cross Street 6662).
Chapter 9 Textiles and Leather in Southeastern New England Archaeological Sites 179
Figure 9.15. Drawing of child’s shoe sole with heel (6662/36,089) and reassembled shoe (drawings by Jeffrey
Butterworth).
Chapter 9 Textiles and Leather in Southeastern New England Archaeological Sites 181
of the shoes; style was more evident from the Similarly, extant pieces of wampum neck-
leather uppers. One type of shoe made with laces, sashes, and bracelets from Long Pond fur-
wooden pegs is typically working-class footwear nish a useful record of materials — Indian hemp,
and is rare in historical collections. sinew, wampum, and copper beads — and con-
struction methods (Figure 9.4). The Native tex-
DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION tiles, especially the earliest ones from RI 1000,
provide a unique opportunity to learn more
Archaeologists excavated plain- and twill- about mats and containers.
weave European wool fabrics from each of the The variety of textiles preserved by corrosion
five sites discussed here (Figure 9.8). Imported products in the three 17th-century sites is amaz-
silk fabrics in plain, twill, and satin weaves came ing (Figures 9.5-9.7, 9.13). They are recent forma-
only from the two privies. All three Native tions compared to the more famous silk pseudo-
American cemeteries contained imported low- morphs on Chinese Han Dynasty swords. The
fabric-count cotton plain-weave textiles (Figures presence of both positive and negative pseudo-
9.2 and 9.13). These survived at Long Pond and morphs, especially in the same fragment, is
the Cross Street privy due to mineralization, inspiration for more research on the process.
which also preserved bast-fiber stitching in shoe These studies show the value of taking the
soles from the Cross Street site (Figure 9.14). At time to treat and study archaeological textiles
Long Pond, Indian hemp yarns survived in and leather from the historical period. Such frag-
wampum bead constructions that contained cop- ile artifacts provide information on availability
per beads (Figure 9.4). and consumption of products used in everyday
Few high-quality fabrics came from the life. This is especially important for the earlier
Native cemeteries. Generally, the wool fabrics 17th-century sites because so little has survived
from the Native cemeteries equal the poorest from that time period. For later sites, the ability
quality in the Cross Street privy. The fashion- to identify artifacts with known persons, occu-
conscious, well-to-do family of Katherine Nanny pations, and economic levels is valuable.
Nailor also left the greatest quantity of fancy fab-
rics, which included patterned silk ribbons (Fig- NOTES
ure 9.9), a leno-weave gauze (see Definitions,
“Gauze weave”), a complicated silk float weave, 1. A comparatively smaller collection of Euro-
and expensive mixtures of silk and wool (Figure pean textiles from excavations at Burr’s Hill,
9.10) or silk and a cellulosic fiber that is now Rhode Island, included 73 wool fragments
missing. Only the later sites at Seneca Road and plus one of cotton and one long strip of silk
Endicott Street had fabrics of mixed fibers such and metallic trim (Dillon 1980:100).
as these. 2. The Rhode Island Historical Preservation
The Narragansett and Mashantucket Pequot and Heritage Commission, formerly the
tribes in the 17th century followed traditional Rhode Island Historical Preservation Com-
burial practices but used European textiles in mission, is the repository of the objects from
place of furs for grave linings and burial the RI 1000 site.
shrouds. Strong evidence of clothing construc- 3. In this chapter, “positive pseudomorph” is
tion came from the other three sites. The variety used synonymously with “mineralization”
of seam types (Figure 9.12) and methods of con- (see Definitions), and “negative pseudo-
trolling fullness shown in fragments from the morph” may be used synonymously with
17th-century privy are especially valuable “pseudomorph,” “mold,” or “cast” (see Def-
because few extant New World garments exist initions).
from that period. For the same reason, extant 4. Mineralization of fibers occurs within days
shoes or shoe fragments from that early time of deposition in the burial environment and
contribute significantly to our knowledge (Fig- acts to preserve the fiber morphology
ure 9.15). (Gillard et al. 1994).
Chapter 9 Textiles and Leather in Southeastern New England Archaeological Sites 183
Council. Copies available from the authors lished master’s thesis, Department of Tex-
or Kevin McBride, Mashantucket Pequot tiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design,
Museum and Research Center, Mashantuck- University of Rhode Island, Kingston.
et, Connecticut. Stevens, Sarah C., and Margaret T. Ordoñez
Ordoñez, Margaret T., Kathryn Tarleton, and Linda 2002 Fashionable and Work Shoes from a 19th-
Welters Century Boston Privy. Historical Archaeology
1992 Support for Archaeological Textile Frag- (in press).
ments. In Storage of Natural History Collec- Tarleton, Kathryn, and Margaret T. Ordoñez
tions: Ideas and Practical Solutions, edited by 1995 Stabilization Methods for Textiles from Wet
Carolyn L. Rose and Amparo R. de Torres, Sites. Journal of Field Archaeology 21(4):81-95.
pp. 7-8. Society for the Preservation of Nat- Welters, Linda
ural History Collections, York, Pennsylva- 1985 Narragansett Bay Survey: Conservation and
nia. Analysis of European Textiles from RI–1000.
Ordoñez, Margaret T., and Linda Welters Submitted to the Rhode Island Historic
1998 Textiles from the Seventeenth-Century Preservation Commission, Providence.
Privy at the Cross Street Back Lot Site. His- Copies available from the author or Paul
torical Archaeology 32:81-90. Robinson, Rhode Island Historical Preser-
Ordoñez, Margaret T., Linda Welters, and Kathryn vation and Heritage Commission, Provi-
Tarleton dence, Rhode Island.
1991 Analysis of Textiles from the Long Pond Site. Welters, Linda, Margaret Ordoñez, Kathryn Tarleton,
Submitted to the Mashantucket Pequot Trib- and Joyce Smith
al Council. Copies available from Ordoñez 1996 European Textiles from Seventeenth-Century
or K. McBride, Mashantucket Pequot Muse- New England Indian Cemeteries. In Histori-
um and Research Center, Mashantucket, cal Archaeology and the Study of American Cul-
Connecticut. ture, edited by LuAnn A. De Cunzo and
Stevens, Sarah C. Bernard L. Herman, pp. 193-232. Henry
2000 Costume-Related Artifacts from the Mill Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Win-
Pond Site, Boston, Massachusetts. Unpub- terthur, Delaware.
ABSTRACT INTRODUCTION
When bones, coffin nails, and textile fragments In 1991, at the Winterthur conference on his-
mixed with roots were found in fill dirt from the acci- torical archaeology and the study of American
dental disturbance of an unmarked, undated Mashpee culture, Stephen Mrozowski of the University of
Indian cemetery on Cape Cod, the Massachusetts Massachusetts Boston mentioned an early-17th-
Historical Commission (MHC) performed an emer- century site called Sandy’s Point on Cape Cod
gency salvage operation. MHC asked the authors to that had an entire level of what appeared to be
analyze the textiles and establish a probable date. “blue roots.” Eventually, the blue roots were
All 718 fragments were wool; cellulosic fibers identified as indigo-dyed wool twill fabric
once present had degraded. In previous work with (Mrozowski 1993). About that same time
17th-century textiles from Native American burials, Edward Bell, an archaeologist at the
wool fragments contained large-diameter coarse Massachusetts Historical Commission, called us
fibers. The predominance of fine- to medium-diameter to arrange analysis of samples from a layer of
wool fibers at the Mashpee site indicates a date after “fuzzy dirt” compressed over the body of an
sheep breeding improved wool quality in the first half adult male Native American from the Santuit
of the 18th century. Pond site in Mashpee, Massachusetts. The fuzzy
Eighty-three different fabric types exhibited a dirt proved to be a napped plain-weave woolen
range of weights, thread counts, constructions, and fabric.
textures. Evidence of apparel included hand-sewn We have long argued that “blue roots,”
hems and seams, braids, appliques, knotted tape clo- “fuzzy dirt,” and other archaeological textiles
sures, and parts of stockings. These characteristics from the post-Contact period in southern New
point to tailored, European-style clothing. England provide valuable information about the
Comparison to extant examples in New England col- culture of the people who used them. For Native
lections indicates a late-18th- to early-19th-century American culture, “perishable” textiles are espe-
date for the clothing, and consequently for the burials. cially important because documentary evidence
These conclusions are corroborated by written is so scarce.
records, which mention spinning and weaving skills In this chapter, we use a material culture
of Mashpee Indians. approach to research a group of textiles from an
Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © 2004
by the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
Chapter 10 Blue Roots and Fuzzy Dirt: Archaeological Textiles from Native American Burials 185
accidentally disturbed Mashpee cemetery on were no longer associated with particular indi-
Cape Cod; this approach includes identification, viduals. MHC personnel bagged the textiles
analysis, and interpretation. (This collection also where they were found, noting in the field report
is discussed in Chapter 9, this volume.) The that the textiles seemed like “pockets of material
absence of other funerary objects left precise dat- within otherwise sterile dirt,” possibly scoop-
ing of the burials to the textiles. fulls from the backhoe (Massachusetts Historical
Commission 1990). One of the bags contained
SITE DESCRIPTION textiles found near the child’s remains. The field
report indicated that all textiles had the charac-
In May 1990, house construction on Heron teristics of “wet and rotting cloth.” The location
Drive in Mashpee, Massachusetts, uncovered of the graves on an elevated knoll with good
human bones in fill dirt. (See map, Figure 9.1.) drainage accounts for the preservation of the tex-
The dirt had been trucked in from a nearby tiles, even though they were wet. The pH of the
house lot on Seneca Road close to John’s Pond. soil was acidic but was too mixed up by the
An emergency burial salvage was undertaken by backhoe to get an accurate reading.
Edward L. Bell, Leonard W. Loparto, and Peter MHC asked the authors to analyze the tex-
Mills of the Massachusetts Historical tiles and establish a probable period of manufac-
Commission (MHC), at which time it was deter- ture and use. In the words of Brona Simon, the
mined that the Seneca Road site was a Native state archaeologist, “analysis of the textiles could
American cemetery of the historical period provide an idea of the date of the burials, as well
(Massachusetts Historical Commission 1990). as cultural information on burial practices, man-
This cemetery was unmarked and did not ufacturing technology, and dress” (Brona Simon,
appear in any historical records (Edward Bell, personal communication 1990). Simon hoped
personal communication 1993). The presence of that: “the textiles could provide the most cultur-
iron alloy nails and wood from coffins indicated al information on the people interred at the
that the individuals had been given Christian cemetery.”
burials. The backfill yielded numerous textiles,
but no buttons, pins, or other fasteners. PROCEDURE
Along with the textile fragments, the MHC
recovered the skeletal remains of three individu- As indicated, the textiles were wet when
als. Michael Gibbons, an anthropologist at the recovered on May 23, 1990. The recovery team
University of Massachusetts Boston, analyzed placed them in two medium-sized sealable plas-
the skeletal remains (Gibbons 1992). He deter- tic bags and refrigerated them until they could
mined that the bones came from three individu- be transported to the University of Rhode Island.
als. The first was a 4-foot-tall child, approxi- The textiles arrived on July 27, 1990, in their plas-
mately 6 years old, probably female, whose tic bags. They were in clumps mixed with cranial
remains exhibited developmental problems. She fragments, hair, roots, and soil. The hair and cra-
may have suffered from malnutrition and was nial fragments were removed and boxed for
unhealthy when she died. Copper stains on her safekeeping. The textile fragments were soaked
hair imply the use of copper head or hair orna- in ethanol to remove soil and then carefully sep-
ments, or perhaps shroud pins. The second indi- arated. Some layered fragments remained intact
vidual was an adult male, 45–50 years old, who for examination. The textiles were placed on
was 5’ 6” tall. His skull also displayed the frag- plastic plates marked with identifying informa-
ments of a copper headband. The third individ- tion and dried.
ual was an adult female, 40–45 years old, whose Graduate student Kathryn Tarleton studied
remains were very fragmentary. The remains of fiber, yarn, and fabric construction using
her hair also indicated that copper head or hair Olympus stereo and polarizing microscopes. She
ornaments had been present. identified fibers, measured the diameter of
Unfortunately, most of the textile fragments yarns, performed a yarn count, noted yarn con-
Chapter 10 Blue Roots and Fuzzy Dirt: Archaeological Textiles from Native American Burials 187
Figure 10.1. Fragments of plain-weave fabric with Z-twist yarns.
Chapter 10 Blue Roots and Fuzzy Dirt: Archaeological Textiles from Native American Burials 189
Figure 10.4. Rectangular fragment with cut edges.
examination, the brown hues ranged from buff typically measured 3/8”. Hems had been rolled
to brown-black. Some of the checked fragments or folded (Figure 10.5). The folded edges dis-
had yarns of two or three colors. A few of the played abrasion, as could be expected from a
napped fragments appeared reddish-brown. cuff or a hem, sometimes containing lint in their
Samples with a dark blue cast tested positive for folds. Many samples had stitch holes. Others
indigo. had multiple layers of the same textile or com-
A number of samples were almost intact, posites of two textiles. Braid fragments were
with little degradation. Their edges looked fresh- found along seamlines. The appliques are partic-
ly cut along the grainline with no deteriorated ularly interesting. Some were deliberately cut
sections (Figure 10.4). They looked as if they had into bias strips to form triangles or curved
once been sewing scraps, as some were irregu- shapes (Figure 10.6), while others were cut into
larly shaped, perhaps left over from cutting out small squares or circles. Several square frag-
a tailored garment. These clean-edged samples ments had been folded and stitched, as if to form
had been layered on top of one another in the tab-like trimmings. The knots may have been
plastic bags, so may have once been sandwiched closures, a possibility made more likely by the
together in the burials. absence of other types of fasteners. The numer-
Many of the fragments were once apparel ous textile fragments raise many interesting
items. Evidence of apparel included seams, questions about the clothing styles of the
hand-sewn hems, braids, appliques, knotted Mashpee Indians at the time of the burials.
tape closures, and stockings. Seam allowances
Chapter 10 Blue Roots and Fuzzy Dirt: Archaeological Textiles from Native American Burials 191
DISCUSSION everyday homespun . . . in the English mode,”
fashioning “very decent and showy” apparel for
To place the textile fragments in context, a Sunday church services (Hutchins 1979: 68). He
brief review of the history of the Mashpee also noted that some women manufactured wool
Indians is necessary. As members of the for their families’ clothing, but many made
Wampanoag tribe, the Mashpee had a long his- brooms and baskets for sale to their white neigh-
tory of interaction with the English colonists. In bors (Hawley 1968 [1815]).
the 17th century, Mashpee became one of 14 In the 19th century, settlement moved out-
praying towns in the Massachusetts Bay ward from the ponds. The people continued
Colony established by John Eliot (Campisi farming, fishing, cranberry-picking, and manu-
1991). Eliot aimed to “civilize” the Indians by facturing brooms and baskets. As the whaling
regrouping them into separate settlements. industry developed, many men joined whaling
Richard Bourne, the first minister at Mashpee, voyages. The Mashpee were ministered to by
arrived in 1658 and began the process of con- William Apes, a Pequot preacher who helped
version of the so-called praying Indians to them achieve self-governance in 1834 (Peters
English customs, including appearance. Eliot’s 1987). Although the Wampanoag and other
plan met with initial resistance. He did not suc- Indians of southern New England dressed in
ceed in teaching the women to spin and weave; European-style clothes for the most part, as seen
instead he relied on donations of clothing from in surviving photographs (Figure 10.7), ethnic
England (Salisbury 1974). But changes slowly markers include long hair for men and head-
took hold. By 1698, a delegation from the bands (Welters 1993).
Society for the Propagation of the Gospel visit- Returning to the textiles, 83 is an unusually
ed Mashpee and reported that “they are in gen- large number of different textiles to be associat-
eral well clothed” (Campisi 1991: 80-81). ed with just three individuals. Although some of
A series of disputes over property rights in the fragments no doubt once comprised the bur-
the 18th century left the Mashpee Indians settled ial clothing of the deceased individuals, another
on reservation land where they farmed and explanation is necessary. When we opened one
fished. Much of the settlement occurred around of the bags of textiles that contained substantial
ponds, including the area around John’s Pond amounts of hair, we observed that the hair sam-
where the burials were disturbed. Over the ples were adjacent to a depressed part of the fab-
course of the 18th century, the Indians at ric and that the fabric appeared to have been
Mashpee adopted shingled houses instead of rolled. When burial customs are studied, the
wigwams, as well as the Christian custom of possibility arises that the corpses’ heads rested
burying the dead extended instead of in a flexed on pillows.
position (Hutchins 1979; Salisbury 1974). Little is known about how Christians in New
Adoption of English-style tailored clothing England laid out the deceased in the late 18th
continued. For women this would have meant and early 19th centuries; even less is known
shifts, stays, petticoats (skirts), short gowns, about how the praying Indians buried their
caps, stockings, and cobbled shoes. For men, dead. Secondary sources report that burials in
shirts, waistcoats, breeches, and coats along with New England took place fairly soon after death
stockings and cobbled shoes constituted the typ- because the body was not embalmed (Larkin
ical 18th-century outfit. An 18th-century portrait 1988; Nylander 1993). The body was laid out,
of Samson Occom (1723–1792), the Mohegan dressed in a shroud or other grave clothes, then
preacher who initiated the Brothertown move- placed in a coffin (usually pine) for viewing. The
ment, shows him attired in coat, waistcoat, and closed coffin was transported to the cemetery
breeches, probably of wool broadcloth. Gideon covered with a black fabric “pall.” Some shrouds
Hawley, minister at Mashpee from 1757 to at from the first half of the 19th century survive in
least 1802, reported in 1802 that the women were the region’s collections. Made of inexpensive
good spinners, combers, and weavers, and cotton cambric, their loose stitching reveals
clothed themselves and their husbands “in hasty construction.
To find evidence for the use of pillows, we case, the pillow was stuffed with cotton fiber,
had to go further afield. The exhumation of two which makes sense given the location of the
mid-19th century burials on a Louisiana planta- burials on a southern plantation. Pillows and
tion revealed that the bodies of the deceased bolsters had been common in New England
were laid out in the typical clothing of the peri- households since the 17th century (Earle 1969).
od, then covered in a shroud and/or winding The better ones were stuffed with feathers, but
sheet, with the heads resting on pillows wool scraps also sufficed (Bogdonoff 1975).
(Brantley 2000; Welker and Kuttruff 2000). In one Given the large variety of textiles in the burials
Chapter 10 Blue Roots and Fuzzy Dirt: Archaeological Textiles from Native American Burials 193
from Seneca Road, we believe these Mashpee fasteners are concerned, garments could have
Indians most likely were laid to rest with their been closed with fabric-covered buttons, as these
heads elevated on homemade pillows stuffed are characteristic of the period before 1830. Made
with wool scraps. of cloth over wood, bone, or other stiff base
To return to the question about the date of material, this type of button has a much lower
the site, the skeletal analysis and the documen- chance for survival in the archaeological setting
tary evidence point to a late-18th-century date. than ceramic, glass, or metal buttons.
Gibbons (1992) estimated the skeletons to be Because the fragments indicate hand sewing
approximately 200 years old, placing the site at rather than machine stitching, the burials cannot
approximately 1790. He speculated that the be dated after the mid-19th century. Clothing
remains of the girl could have been older. Bell, in was sewn by hand until the widespread adop-
researching land records, maps, and local histo- tion of the sewing machine. This occurred by
ries, concluded that the burial ground was used 1860, judging by surviving clothing of southern
sometime before the early 19th century (Edward New Englanders.
Bell, personal communication 1993). Some of the clothing, particularly the coats,
The fabrics themselves provide further clues could have been issued by government-appoint-
to help date the site. The varieties of wool fibers ed overseers. Massachusetts Bay Colony legisla-
in the fragments ranged from fine to coarse, but tion in 1660 instituted a program of awarding
the relatively few coarse hairs present indicate a coats to children who entered apprenticeships
date well into the 18th century when sheep with white families (Salisbury 1974). Wool coats
breeding improved the quality of wool. had been traded to Native Americans by
Seventeenth-century Native American sites we Europeans since at least the early 17th century.
have studied yielded mostly coarse woolens rife Some of these coats are described in the histori-
with large-diameter fibers from hairy fleeces cal record as “laced,” which means trimmed
(Welters et al. 1996). Such cloth, known as duffles with specially woven tapes and braids (Welters
or trucking cloth, was made expressly for trade 1993). A tailored coat has numerous layers of
to Native Americans. This was not the type of cloth near the neck — collar, lapel, and facing.
cloth found in these burials. Coat styles from about 1790 to 1830 had unusu-
The textile fragments are similar to the fab- ally high collars, creating a substantial mass of
rics found in clothing worn by rural New material around the neck (Figure 10.8).
Englanders during the late colonial period and Surviving coats from the period are made of
into the early Republic. Clothing made of certain dense wool fabrics which have been heavily
homespun fabrics was worn in southern New fulled. Given the large amounts and layers of
England until about 1830. After that, the factory- fulled wool among the Seneca Road fragments,
made textiles produced in area textile mills were the adult male could have been buried wearing a
so affordable that homespun clothing became a tailored wool coat.
thing of the past. Simple plain-weave home- In the case of the Mashpee textiles, the
spuns, checks, and plaids could have been made appliques and cut-out trims represent something
by the native women of Mashpee. Some fabrics, uniquely native. Among the textiles associated
such as broadcloth, may have been acquired for with the young girl, triangular motifs on a
waistcoats or coats. The fulled wools (see seamed fragment imply that her body was laid
Definitions) approximated apparel-weight fabric out in an outer garment unlike those that survive
rather than the heavier material used in hats. in collections. The only garments that suggest
New Englanders still knitted their own the use of wool appliques are 19th-century outer
stockings well into the 19th century because garments and bags made by Woodland Indians.
such garments wore better than factory-made The beaded outfit worn by Caroline Parker, a
stockings (Ulrich 2001). Braided or knitted Seneca woman (Figure 10.9), illustrates the deco-
garters tied above the knee held up the stock- rative clothing worn by some Eastern Woodland
ings. The knotted tape mentioned previously Indians in the mid-19th century. Photographs
could have been a garter. As far as other types of from the late 19th and early 20th century reveal
Chapter 10 Blue Roots and Fuzzy Dirt: Archaeological Textiles from Native American Burials 195
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Massachusetts Historical Commission
1990 Human Remains Found at Heron Drive,
The exacting process of examining and cate- Mashpee. Field report on file, Office of the
gorizing the textiles was performed by Kathryn Massachusetts State Archaeologist, Massa-
Tarleton through a URI research assistantship. chusetts Historical Commission, Boston.
Thanks to Edward Bell of the Massachusetts Mrozowski, Stephen
Historical Commission for providing site infor- 1993 Archaeological Evidence of Native Ameri-
mation and related references. can Horticulture. Paper presented at the
Pequot History Conference, Mystic, Con-
REFERENCES CITED necticut 21 October 1993.
Nylander, Jane C.
Bogdonoff, Nancy Dick 1993 Our Own Snug Fireside: Images of the New
1975 Handwoven Textiles of Early New England. England Home, 1760–1860. Alfred A. Knopf,
Stackpole Books, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. New York.
Brantley, Elizabeth Peters, Russell M.
2000 Burial Dress of an Adolescent Male from the 1987 The Wampanoag of Mashpee: An Indian Per-
Early 1850s. The Costume Society of America: spective on American History. Indian Spiritual
26th Annual Meeting and Symposium and Cultural Training Council. Nimrod
Abstracts, p. 23. Williamsburg, Virginia. Press, Boston, Massachusetts.
Campisi, Jack Salisbury, Neal
1991 The Mashpee Indians: Tribe on Trial. The Iro- 1974 Red Puritans: The “Praying Indians” of
quois and Their Neighbors, Lawrence M. Massachusetts Bay Colony and John Eliot.
Hauptman, Series Editor. Syracuse Univer- William and Mary Quarterly 31:27-54.
sity Press, Syracuse, New York. Ulrich, Laurel Thatcher
Earle, Alice Morse 2001 The Age of Homespun: Objects and Stories in
1969 [1893] Customs and Fashions in Old New Eng- the Creation of an American Myth. Alfred A.
land. Corrner House, Williamstown, Massa- Knopf, New York.
chusetts. Welker, Deborah, and Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff
Gibbons, Michael F. 2000 A Black Silk Burial Gown from an 1852 Bur-
1992 Skeletal Analysis, Seneca Road Burials, ial. The Costume Society of America: 26th
Mashpee, Massachusetts. Letter report to Annual Meeting and Symposium Abstracts, p.
Brona Simon, 11 February. On file, Office of 24. Williamsburg, Virginia.
the Massachusetts State Archaeologist, Mas- Welters, Linda
sachusetts Historical Commission, Boston. 1993 From Moccasins to Frock Coats and Back
Hawley, Gideon Again: Ethnic Identity and Native American
1968 [1815] A Description of Mashpee, in the Coun- Dress in Southern New England. In Dress in
ty of Barnstable, Sept. 16th 1802. Collections American Culture, edited by Patricia A. Cun-
of the Massachusetts Historical Society, Ser. ningham and Susan Voso Lab, pp. 6-41.
2, No. 3. Reprint 1968. Johnson Reprint Bowling Green State University Popular
Corp., New York. Press, Bowling Green, Ohio.
Hutchins, Francis G. Welters, Linda, Margaret T. Ordoñez, Kathryn Tar-
leton, and Joyce Smith
1979 Mashpee: The Story of Cape Cod’s Indian Town.
Amarta, West Franklin, New Hampshire. 1996 European Textiles from Seventeenth-Centu-
ry New England Indian Cemeteries. In His-
Larkin, Jack
torical Archaeology and the Study of American
1988 The Reshaping of Everyday Life, 1790–1840. Culture, edited by Lu Ann De Cunzo and
Harper and Row, New York. Bernard L. Herman, pp. 193-232. Henry
Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Win-
terthur, Delaware.
ABSTRACT
INTRODUCTION
Perishable Material Culture in the Northeast, edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker. New York State Museum Bulletin 500. © 2004
by the University of the State of New York, The State Education Department, Albany, New York. All rights reserved.
ORIGINAL MATERIALS
singles cords plied together with a Z twist (see the brown elements, is oriented to the outside of
Definitions). This cordage is well made and con- the bag. The fibers have not been analyzed, but
sistent in diameter except where damage to the are likely cotton. Alternatively, the fabric might
bag has resulted in fraying or untwisting. The be a combination of cotton and wool (“jean”) or
material is basswood; “individual elements are linen and wool (“linsey-woolsey”). A circle of
flat strips” (Welters and Ordoñez 2002). this fabric was sewn into the severely damaged
The dark weft elements consist of untwisted, bottom of the bag (Figures 11.4 and 11.5). There
unplied flat strips of basswood (Welters and also is a small patch covering a hole in the side
Ordoñez 2002), with color varying from medium (Figures 11.6 and 11.7). A small slit in the side
to very dark brown. This color variation appears was sewn together rather than being patched
random, rather than intended to create a (Figure 11.8).
planned pattern. The lighter, straw-colored wefts A glazed cotton chintz was used to bind the
are hollow plant stems, possibly rush (Welters edge of the bag, and also to cover the circular
DESIGN
NORTHEASTERN PATTERNED
TWINED BAGS
Besides the design format, points of similari- woolen yarns in contrasting bright colors were
ty between the Fenner and Swan bags include a used for the twining wefts.
cylindrical shape built upon radial warps, a fab-
ric structure of Z-twisted wrapped twining, two- GENERAL COMPARISONS
ply bark warps, single-ply plant-fiber wefts, and
the general time period. Tables 11.1–11.3 summarize similarities and
Although rare in the archaeological record, differences among the 17th-18th century bags
the wrapped twining structure is known from 11 mentioned above and Susannah Swan’s.
fragments of two different fabrics from the Early Common among the five Algonquian examples
Woodland (ca. 1000–100 B. C.) Boucher site in in Tables 11.2 and 11.3 is a weft-faced Z-twist
northwestern Vermont (Heckenberger et al. twining structure. All but one — which was
1996:54-55, 62, 63; for site location, see Figure made for a Euro-American in the then-popular
1.3). In the Boucher examples, the active twining form of a pocketbook (Ulrich 2001:263, 265) —
elements were animal-hair yarn, while the pas- exhibit a cylindrical shape underpinned by radi-
sive (rigid) element was vegetal. On one fabric, al warps. All but Susannah Swan’s bag are taller
two varieties of hair yarns were utilized as active than wide. It is possible that the Swan bag origi-
elements to form a geometric design. nally was, as well. The Swan and Fenner bags
During the 19th and early 20th centuries, share the patterning technique of weft wrapping
full-turn twining with paired active wefts as well as stepped-line and diagonal pattern
(Figure 11.12c) was utilized by members of motifs. The other two Algonquian cylindrical
Algonquian and closely related Siouan groups bags, decorated with “false embroidery,” both
living in the upper Great Lakes region to make were made from plant-fiber yarns with porcu-
flat, rectangular bags decorated with geometric pine quill supplementary wefts, and exhibit pat-
patterns contained in horizontal bands (e.g., tern designs based on small geometric motifs
Gordon 1997:Fig. 23; Phillips 1989; Whiteford within horizontal bands.
1977b), many of which still survive. Flexible
Balanced weave. Interlaced fabric in which warp zontal to the base and is secured in place by a
and weft are “equal in size, spacing, and count” linking or looping element.
(Emery 1966:76). An alternative definition does
Cord. A replied yarn.
not require equal-sized warp and weft yarns,
only approximately the same number of warp Cordage. A rope-making term referring to cords
elements as of weft elements per unit measure or ropes (see discussion in Emery 1966:13-14).
(Kadolph and Langford 1998). Sometimes used to refer to assemblages of yarns,
cords, or ropes not serving as elements of fabric
Bark cloth. Beaten bark cloth is a fiber construc-
construction.
tion analogous to wool felt. It is made from lay-
ers of inner bark that are soaked, “then beaten or Element. A component part of the structure of an
pounded into a flat coherent fabric” (Emery interworked fabric: yarn, thread, strand, cord,
1966:20-21). sinew, thong, or whatever material is inter-
worked to form the fabric. Components of a “set
Bast fiber. Fiber derived from the stems of cer-
of elements” are functionally undifferentiated
tain plants, including hemp and flax; “part of
and trend in the same direction (Drooker
the inner bark (phloem) of the stem of a dicotyle-
1992:244-245; Emery 1966:27).
donous plant” (Wilson 1979:11).
Fabric. “The generic term for all fibrous con-
Cambric. During the 18th century, a lightweight
structions,” from the Latin fabricare, to make or
linen fabric first made in Cambrai, France; in the
fabricate (Emery 1966:xvi). It subsumes the term
19th century, “a plain weave cotton glazed on
“textile” (see Textile, below).
one side” (Wilson 1979:244, 281).
Fabric count. Elements per square centimeter of
Cast. An object formed in a mold or impression.
a fabric (sum of warp elements per centimeter
Sometimes called a “positive mold” or “positive
plus weft elements per centimeter, including any
impression.” See also Impression, Mold.
supplementary elements) (Kuttruff 1993:130).
Chintz. A printed and glazed plain-weave cotton See also Thread count.
fabric; originally, a painted, resist-dyed cloth
False embroidery. A basketry term denoting “the
made in India.
embellishment of a weft-twined structure during
Chromatography. A method to separate complex the twining process by means of additional ele-
mixtures by percolating them through a selec- ments.” The supplementary elements are
tively adsorbing medium (Morris 1969:240). wrapped around “each twining element as it
comes to the surface . . . and . . . do not appear on
Cloth. Pliable, fibrous fabric made by any
the reverse side” (Emery 1966:211; see Figure
process, including but not limited to weaving,
11.12, this volume). Technically, this is not
twining, looping, linking, knotting, and felting.
embroidery, which is carried out with needle
Coiling. Basket-making technique in which the and thread on a previously made backing.
foundation element forms a spiral or coil hori-
Definitions 217
Float. A warp or weft element of an interlaced Kermes. A genus of insect and the dried bodies
fabric that goes over or under more than one ele- of females of the species, used to make a red dye.
ment at a time. A warp float is in the warp direc-
Knitting. Vertically aligned interlooping, with
tion. A weft float is in the weft direction.
construction carried out by means of a set of nee-
Fulling. “A cleaning, shrinking, and felting oper- dles or sticks, or the process of making it (Emery
ation that [gives] wool fabrics a softer surface . . 1966:40-42, Figs. 38-41). In plain knitting, all
. and [makes] them thicker and more weather loops in a given row are on the same side of the
resistant” (Wilson 1979:84). fabric. In stocking or stockinette stitch, looping
in all rows is on the same side of the fabric; in
Gauze weave. A weave in which “warp elements
garter stitch, loop direction alternates between
are crossed over other warp elements, retained
rows.
in the out-of-line position by the interlacing of
weft elements, and … [then] re-crossed to their Knotting. Fabric formed by “a tightened inter-
original order” (Emery 1966:180). Leno is a relat- working of flexible elements” that effect “a fas-
ed term that sometimes is used to indicate a tening or ‘tie’” (Emery 1966:225-226), or the
combination of gauze and plain weave (Emery process of creating this. Knotted netting is an
1966:190-191). open fabric with mesh dimensions fixed by
knots at intervals.
Heddle. Device on a loom for lifting or depress-
ing selected warp threads. Linking. One of the structures formed by inter-
working a single element. “In simple linking,
Impression. Depression made in a plastic sub-
successive rows of . . . ‘open loops’ are formed by
stance by pressing something into it. Occasional-
a stitch like that known in sewing as overcasting
ly termed a “negative impression,” in contrast to
or whipping... Each row is formed by a progres-
a “positive impression” [cast]. See also Cast.
sive spiraling of the element round the portions
Indigotin. A blue crystalline chemical com- between the stitches of the previous row”
pound, the primary coloring matter of indigo. (Emery 1966:30).
Interlacing. Technique (and the fabric formed by Loom. A device that holds warp elements paral-
it) in which each element passes over and under lel and provides tension to them, and which usu-
other elements that cross its path (Emery ally also includes a shedding device to create an
1966:62). Interlaced fabric can be constructed opening between selected sets of warp elements
from a single set of elements (oblique interlac- (a shed) through which the weft can be inserted
ing), or from two or more sets (weaving). In in the production of warp-weft interlacing (Bar-
plain (simple) interlacing (1/1 interlacing), ele- ber 1991:5; Broudy 1979:14; Emery 1966:75).
ments pass over and under each other one at a Looms with integral shedding devices frequent-
time. In twill interlacing, elements pass over ly are designated “true looms” (e.g., Wilson
and/or under more than one element at a time, 1979:289), to distinguish them from simple ten-
with a characteristic diagonal alignment of sioning frames.
floats. See also Plaiting, Plain weave, Twill
Looping. A single-element structure built up by
weave, Warp, Weft.
the repeated interworking of loops, the latter
Interlinking. A linked structure formed by inter- produced by doubling an element back on itself
working a single set of elements, rather than by so as to leave an opening through which another
manipulating a single element as in linking. Also element may pass (Emery 1966:30-31).
called plaiting (Emery 1966:60).
Madder. A plant (any of several from the genus
Interlooping. A looped structure consisting of Rubia), the root of which yields a red dye.
“loops of a single continuous element drawn
Mineralization. A process in which an original
through other loops . . . formed by the same ele-
material is gradually replaced by something else,
ment” (Emery 1966:39).
replicating both the exterior form and the inter-
218 Definitions
nal structure of an object (e.g., the formation of (1977:99, Figs. 122, 124). Simple plaiting refers to
petrified wood) (Gillard et al. 1994). “Mineral- plaiting with a 1/1 interlaced structure. In the
ization” is sometimes used as an umbrella term present book, interlacing (with the number of
to include either the replacement of an object’s sets of elements specified) is preferred as the
original material or the formation of pseudo- more general term, but plaiting is employed by
morphs. See also Pseudomorph. several authors; see their individual definitions.
See also Weaving, Interlacing.
Mold. A form for shaping fluid or plastic materi-
al inserted into it. Plied yarn. A yarn formed by “twisting together
two or more single yarns” (Emery 1966:10). A
Mordant. A chemical substance used in dyeing
“two-ply” (double-ply) yarn is made of two single
(such as a salt of aluminum, iron, tin, or chrome),
elements, a “three-ply” yarn incorporates three
that combines with both the dyestuff and the
single elements, and so forth. The term “plied”
material being dyed to deposit insoluble color on
often is restricted to yarns constructed of spun
the fiber (Wingate 1979:398).
fibers (Emery 1966:10); in this book, it also is used
Netting. “Open textured single-element fabric to describe yarns made by twisting together any
with meshes of fixed dimensions secured by two or more elements, whether they are spun or
knots,” or, used loosely: “an open-meshed net- unspun. Analysts employ a variety of shorthand
like quality” (Emery 1966:46). See also Knotting. notations to describe the structures of plied yarns.
Octagonal openwork. A term probably coined by For example, a two-ply Z-spun S-twist yarn (in
Miner (1936:182, 187) to describe plain twining which two Z-spun elements are twisted together
combined with transposed interlinked warps, a in the S direction) might be denoted as 2z-S, Z2S,
decorative structure with an open, lacy appear- or S z/z, among other possibilities. See also
ance (Drooker 1992:247, Figs. 9i, 27). Replied yarn, Spun yarn.
Plain weave. 1/1 interlacing with two perpendi- Porcupine twist. A weave structure utilized on
cular sets of elements (warp and weft). Balanced some wood splint baskets, in which a three-
plain weave has warp elements and weft ele- dimensional effect is created by twisting a weft
ments that are approximately the same diameter splint before it is reinserted under a warp ele-
and number per unit measure (Emery 1966:76). ment. Some variants are “twist weave,” “thistle
See also Balanced weave, Interlacing. weave,” and “wart weave” (Turnbaugh and
Turnbaugh 1997:18, 20, 83).
Plaiting. In basketry, this term is used to denote
“a sub-class of basket weaves in which all ele- Pseudomorph. A mineral, usually a metal corro-
ments are active. Single elements or sets of ele- sion product, that completely covers and repli-
ments, called strips, pass over and under each cates the form of a perishable object such as a
other” (Adovasio 1977:99). Structurally, this is yarn or feather (Janaway 1985:30). See also Min-
equivalent to interlacing. Outside of basketry, eralization.
this term has been applied to a wide range of Reduction test for indigo. Method of identifying
fabric structures including interlinking, bobbin indigo dye. Blue yarn is treated with an alkaline
lace constructions, and braiding (interlacing sodium dithionite solution and heated. When a
with a single set of elements rather than a sepa- solvent such as n-butanol or ethyl acetate is
rate warp and weft, more specifically termed added, shaken, and then allowed to separate
oblique interlacing) (Emery 1966:60, 68-69). from the dithionite solution, the test is positive
According to Emery (1966:68), even within bas- for indigo if the upper solvent layer is blue.
ketry terminology, “plaiting” refers to construc-
Replied yarn. A yarn formed by twisting togeth-
tion utilizing a single set of elements. Although
er two or more plied yarns (Emery 1966:10).
Adovasio states that “Plaiting is equivalent to
Structurally equivalent to cord.
braiding in weaving,” implying the use of only a
single set of elements, he states that some plaited Retting. The process of soaking plant materials
basketry is constructed with two sets of elements in water as a step toward the separation of
Definitions 219
fibrous material from woody material. Retting upper left to lower right, like the center portion
relies on the activity of microorganisms or the of the letter S (Emery 1966:11). The final twist is
addition of chemicals to aid in the decortication most visible. Elements that have been plied
process. together usually have their own internal twist,
which is usually but not always the reverse of
Selvage. Edge of a fabric “closed by loops
the final twist.
formed by a change in direction . . . of the ele-
ments making up the fabric” (Drooker 1992:246, Textile. According to Emery, this term refers
after Kuttruff 1988:187). specifically to a woven (warp-weft interlaced)
fabric, from the Latin texere, to weave (Emery
Semiotics. Study of “how meaning is conveyed
1966:xvi). However, it often is used more gener-
and generated by texts[,] . . . objects, . . . and
ally to refer to cloth (pliable, fibrous fabric) con-
material culture in general.” Concerns the inter-
structed by interworking elements. Many of the
pretation of signs: “anything that can be used to
authors in this book use this term in the latter
represent or stand for something else” (Berger
sense.
1992:17).
Thread count. “Number of warp and weft ele-
Single yarn. An element consisting of one strand
ments to the linear unit of measure” in a fabric
of spun fibers. Also called “single-ply” yarn,
(Emery 1966:76). Sometimes this is expressed as
although the latter is at odds with some defini-
separate warp and weft counts, and sometimes,
tions of “ply” (Emery 1966:9, 13). A “strand of
particularly in the textile industry, it is expressed
unspun fibrous material,” either untwisted or
as the sum of warps per unit of measure and
twisted, is called a single (Emery 1966:9)
wefts per unit of measure. See also Fabric count.
Slant. See Weft slant.
Twill weave. Twill interlacing formed by two
Spectrophotometer. Instrument for measuring sets of elements. In twill weaves, warp and weft
the relative amounts of radiant energy as a func- elements float over two or more elements of the
tion of wavelength; can be used in identification other set in a progressive succession of diagonal
of dyes by matching absorbance spectra of dye alignments (Emery 1966:75, 92). For example, in
solutions or reflectrance spectra of dyed fabrics 2/2 twill, weft elements interlace over 2 warp
with reference spectra. elements and under 2; in 4/1 twill, wefts inter-
Splice. To join two pieces of rope or yarn by lace over 4 warps and under 1, and so on. In an
interworking the ends. The place where parts uneven twill (e.g., 2/1, 4/1), “no element passes
have been spliced. over the same number of elements it passes
under” (Emery 1966:99). Straight twill has its
Spun yarn. “Yarn formed from fibers of limited floats aligned in a continuous diagonal; herring-
length that have been arranged more or less par- bone twill incorporates zig-zag diagonals. See
allel, drawn out into a continuous strand, and also Interlacing.
twisted together” (Drooker 1992:246; see also
Emery 1966:9). Twining. The process or result of enclosing one
or more elements within the twisting of two or
S spin. A term that refers to the direction of twist more other elements around each other; the lat-
of fibers in a single, spun yarn. In some chapters ter are called the active elements. In two-strand
of this book, this term is used to designate the twining, there are two active elements (see Fig-
initial twist of elements in a double-plied cord ure 11.12); in three-strand twining, there are
(e.g., a “S-spun, Z-twisted” cord), whether or not three (Emery 1966:Figs. 315, 316). In S twining,
the single elements are made from short-staple twining elements are twisted in the S direction
fibers. See Spun yarn, S twist. (see S twist). In Z twining, twining elements are
S twist. One of two possible directions of twist. If twisted in the Z direction (see Z twist). In coun-
an S-twisted strand, yarn, cord, or rope is held tered (chevron) twining, rows of Z twining and S
vertical, its elements slant diagonally down from twining alternate (Emery 1966:Figs. 307, 308,
220 Definitions
311). In plain (simple) twining, two elements Weaving. The process and the product of inter-
twist around one element at a time, with a half- lacing with at least two sets of elements (Emery
twist between each passive element (see Figure 1966:68). Some researchers limit this term to tex-
11.12). In alternate-pair (diagonal, twill, split- tiles produced on a loom with heddles (devices
pair, zigzag) twining, two active elements twist used to lift selected warp elements automatical-
around two passive elements at a time, with ly). Some writers apply this term to any type of
alternate pairs of elements selected in alternate fabric construction (e.g., twining).
rows (Emery 1966:Figs. 309, 310; see also Figure
Weft elements. “The transverse elements in a
2.3, this volume). In plain twining with crossed
fabric (generally but not necessarily parallel to
warps (hexagonal twining), pairs of warp ele-
each other and to the starting and terminal edges
ments cross each other between each row of
of the fabric), which cross and interwork with
open plain twining, running diagonally through
the warp elements at more or less right angles”
the fabric (Brasser 1975:82). In compact (close)
(Drooker 1992:248). Supplementary, or extra,
twining, the twining elements are close enough
wefts are unnecessary to the fabric structure,
together to completely cover the passive ele-
almost always being added solely for decorative
ments. In spaced (open) twining, twining rows
purposes (Emery 1966:140-141). Discontinuous
are spaced at some distance apart. In weft twin-
wefts do not pass across the entire width of fab-
ing, the active elements are wefts. In warp twin-
ric, but interwork back and forth within a
ing, the active elements are warps. In half-turn
restricted area. A weft float occurs when a weft
twining, each twining element alternates on the
element passes over and/or under more than
two faces of the fabric; in full-turn twining, each
one warp at a time.
element is twisted such that it returns to the
same face (Emery 1966:Figs. 313, 314; see Figure Weft-faced fabric. A fabric in which the weft ele-
11.12, this volume). Full-turn twining is called ments are so close together that they cover the
wrapped twining if the weft element on the back warp elements.
surface is kept rigid so that it does not appear on Weft slant. The slant direction of twined wefts.
the front surface at all (see Figure 11.12). If twin- When a twining row is oriented vertically, an “S”
ing elements of different colors are employed, slant goes diagonally from upper left to lower
pattern motifs can be constructed by inserting right, like the center portion of the letter S, and a
either a half-turn or a full-turn twist between “Z” slant goes diagonally down from right to
passive elements, bringing the desired color to left, like the center portion of the letter Z
the front side of the fabric. See also False (Adovasio 1977:20, 30). This term is equivalent to
embroidery, Weft slant. weft twining twist (see Twining). When direction
Twist. See S twist, Twining, Weft slant, Z twist. is included, the term often is abbreviated as (e.g.)
“S-Twist Wefts”; this is not to be confused with
Warp elements. The parallel elements that run
twist direction in the yarn itself.
longitudinally on a loom, weaving frame, or fab-
ric, which are crossed and interworked by trans- Woolen yarn. Yarn in which wool fibers are
verse elements (wefts). Supplementary warps fluffed and aligned by carding, then spun so that
are extra (unnecessary to the fabric structure), the fibers are at a significant angle to the length
and usually are added solely for decorative pur- of the yarn; they are generally not dense. Woolen
poses. Discontinuous warps do not span the fabrics are woven from woolen yarns.
entire length of fabric, but interwork back and Worsted yarn. Yarn in which long-staple wool
forth within a restricted area. A warp float occurs fibers are aligned by combing, then spun; they
when a warp element passes over or under more generally are denser than woolen yarns. Worsted
than one weft at a time. fabrics are woven from worsted yarns.
Warp-faced fabric. A fabric in which the warp Wrapped twining. “Full-turn twining in which
elements are so close together that they cover the one twining element (often rigid) remains
weft elements. always on the same side of the fabric” (Drooker
Definitions 221
1992:249; see Figure 11.12, this volume). See also REFERENCES CITED
Twining.
Adovasio, J. M.
Yarn. “The general term for any assemblage of
1977 Basketry Technology: A Guide to Identification
fibers or filaments which has been put together
and Analysis. Aldine Publishing Company,
in a continuous strand suitable for weaving,
Chicago.
knitting, and other fabric construction” (Emery
Barber, Elizabeth J. W.
1966:10).
1991 Prehistoric Textiles: The Development of Cloth
Z spin. Refers to the direction of twist of fibers in in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special
a single, spun yarn. In some chapters of this Reference to the Aegean. Princeton University
book, this term is used to designate the initial Press, Princeton, New Jersey.
twist of elements in a double-plied cord (e.g., a Berger, Arthur A.
“Z-spun, S-twisted” cord), whether or not the 1992 Reading Matter: Multidisciplinary Perspectives
single elements are made from short-staple on Material Culture. Transaction Publishers,
fibers. See Spun yarn, Z twist. New Brunswick, New Jersey.
Brasser, Ted J.
Z twist. One of two possible directions of twist.
1975 A Basketful of Indian Culture Change. Nation-
If a Z-twisted yarn, cord, or rope is held vertical,
al Museum of Man Mercury Series, Canadi-
its elements slant diagonally down from upper
an Ethnology Service Paper No. 22. Nation-
right to lower left, like the center portion of the al Museums of Canada, Ottawa.
letter Z (Emery 1966:11). The final twist is most
Broudy, Eric
visible. Elements that have been plied together
1979 The Book of Looms. Van Nostrand Reinhold,
usually have their own internal twist, which is
New York.
usually but not always the reverse of the final
Drooker, Penelope B.
twist.
1992 Mississippian Village Textiles at Wickliffe. Uni-
versity of Alabama Press, Tuscaloosa.
NOTE Drooker, Penelope B., and Laurie D. Webster (editors)
2000 Beyond Cloth and Cordage: Archaeological Tex-
1. A number of these definitions are drawn tile Research in the Americas. University of
from the glossary of Beyond Cloth and Utah Press, Salt Lake City.
Cordage: Archaeological Textile Research in the Emery, Irene
Americas (Drooker and Webster 2000:267- 1966 The Primary Structures of Fabrics: An Illustrat-
282). They include those for: bast fiber, cloth, ed Classification. The Textile Museum, Wash-
cord, cordage, element, fabric, fabric count, ington, D. C.
false embroidery, float, interlacing, interlink- Gillard, R. D., Susan M. Hardman, R. G. Thomas, and
ing, knitting, linking, loom, looping, mor- D. E. Watkinson
dant, octagonal openwork, plain weave, 1994 The Mineralization of Fibres in Burial Envi-
plaiting, plied yarn, pseudomorph, replied ronments. Studies in Conservation 39:132-140.
yarn, retting, single yarn, S spin, S twist, tex- Janaway, Robert C.
tile, thread count, twill weave, twining, 1985 Dust to Dust: The Preservation of Textile
warps, warp-faced fabric, weaving, wefts, Materials in Metal Artefact Corrosion Prod-
weft-faced fabric, weft slant, yarn, Z spin, Z ucts with Reference to Inhumation Graves.
twist. Science and Archaeology (27):29-37.
Kadolph, Sara J., and Anna L. Langford
1998 Textiles. Merrill, Upper Saddle River, New
Jersey.
222 Definitions
Kuttruff, Jenna T. lish Language. American Heritage Publish-
1988 Textile Attributes and Production Complexity ing Company, New York.
as Indicators of Caddoan Status Differentiation Turnbaugh, Sarah Peabody, and William A. Turn-
in the Arkansas Valley and Southern Ozark baugh
Regions. Unpublished Ph.D. dissertation, 1997 Indian Baskets. 2nd ed. Schiffer Publishing
Department of Textiles and Clothing, Ohio Ltd., West Chester, Pennsylvania.
State University, Columbus. Wilson, Kax
1993 Mississippian Period Status Differentiation 1979 A History of Textiles. Westview Press, Boul-
through Textile Analysis: A Caddoan Exam- der, Colorado.
ple. American Antiquity 58(1):125-145.
Wingate, Isabel B.
Miner, Horace
1979 Fairchild’s Dictionary of Textiles. 6th ed.
1936 The Importance of Textiles in the Archaeol- Fairchild Publication, New York.
ogy of the Eastern United States. American
Antiquity 1(3):181-192.
Morris, William (editor)
1969 The American Heritage Dictionary of the Eng-
Definitions 223
224 Definitions
CONTRIBUTORS
Contributors 225
226 Contributors
INDEX
27/29 Endicott Street Privy (Massachusetts): buttons, 134f, 138f; location, 132f, 132, 134; site type,
181; clothing construction at, 181, 182; dates, 132
181; location, 170f; occupants of site, 181; Apes, William (Pequot), 192
shoe fragments, 181-182; textiles, 181, 182 Appliques: from Seneca Road site, 181, 191, 191f,
Abenaki: bands as captors of Euroamericans, 199; 194-195
people, 146; pocketbook, twined, 205 Archaic. See Early Archaic, Late Archaic, Transitional
Adams (New York): haft, knife, 6; location, 4f Archaic
Adena Mound (Ohio): human effigy pipe from, 12; Arm band, birch-bark: from Pictou site, 6
location, 4f Arnold Research Cave (Missouri): cultural period of
Adena tradition: basketry, 27; textiles, 27 perishables, 22t; sandals, 24; twining, 22t, 24
Adovasio, J. M., 10, 131, 134, 149 Arrows, wooden: from Sheep Rock Shelter, 4
Affleck, Diane L. Fagan, 202 Ater (Ohio): copper artifacts, 47t; fabrics, 73, 76, 78t;
Albany Almshouse Cemetery site (New York), 8; location, 48f, 70f; materials on breastplates,
garments from, 8-9 64t, 65, 78t; pearl beads, 71; shell beads, 71;
Algonquian: twined bags and baskets, 205, 206, 207t, yarn diameters, 79t
209t, 210 Atherley Narrows (Ontario): fish weir at, 4; location,
Allegheny Iroquois tradition: ceramics, 98; chronolo- 4f
gy, 89f; cooperation with GAP tradition Augustine Mound (New Brunswick): bag, 6; dates,
groups, 98; geographical area, 88f; popula- 161; fabrics, 6, 160; location, 4f; thongs,
tion movement, 100, 108; proto-Iroquoian leather, 6
sites of, 98 Awl, wooden: from Sheep Rock Shelter, 4
Allegheny Plateau, glaciated: abandonment by Axe, iron: from Sandy Point site, 147
McFate phase people, 106-110; ceramic Bags: from Augustine Mound, 6; from Boucher site,
types, 93, 97-102, 104; population continuity 6; from Cameron site, 7; from Dann site, 7;
in, 105-106; twist of cordage from, 104-105, from eighteenth-century St. Lawrence Valley
105-106; Woodland cultural sequence of, 93- Iroquoians, 205; from Erie sites, 7; from
104. See also GAP tradition Hartford Cemetery site, 5; from Hopewell
Allegheny Plateau, unglaciated: growing season, sites, 73; medicine, 7; from New England,
109; village layouts, 109 197-210; from nineteenth-twentieth century
Allegheny River phase: ceramics, 97; chronology, 89f; upper Great Lakes region, 206, 210; from
components, 97 Pictou site, 6; from RI 1000 site, 8; from sev-
Amouchiquois people, 146 enteenth-century New England, 197-210;
Analogy, ethnohistorical, 12 from Sheep Rock Shelter, 5; from sixteenth-
seventeenth-century New York, 209-210;
Andrews, R. L., 149
from Tram site, 7; “wampum,” 199, 212
Apalachian Creek (New York): attributes of cordage
Ball, William Miner, 198, 211
and fabric impressed on Owasco vessels
from, 133t, 138; cord-marked sherds from, Band, interlaced: from Boughton Hill site, 8
Index 227
Bands, wampum: from Long Pond site, 172 ness,” 8; location, 4f
Bark cloth: on Hopewellian copper artifacts, 51, 52, Bourne, Richard: minister at Mashpee, 192
55f Bourque, Bruce J., 145, 148
Bark: arm band, 6; basketry, 5, 161, 200; in composite Bow, wooden: from Pictou site, 6
construction, 156-158, 156f, 157f; construc- Bowl, wooden: from New York State Museum, 5
tions, 150; containers, 5, 11; fabric, 52, 152-
Boylston Street Fish Weir (Massachusetts): location,
154; on Hopewellian copper artifacts, 59, 62,
4; weir usage at, 4
63; matting, 5, 46; from Meadowcroft
Rockshelter, 23, 26; from Sandy Point site, Bracelets: wampum, from Long Pond site, 172
152-154, 156-158; from Sebasticook Lake site, Bradley, James W., 145
161; wrapping for tool handle, 6 Braid: from Seneca Road site, 181, 188, 191
Basketry: artifact types, 21, 33; from Cresap site, 27; Brass. See Metal
as evidence of group identity, 131; as form Brasser, Ted J., 205
for mold for pottery, 9; as influence on pot- Breastplate, composite construction, from Sandy
tery design, 11; from Massachusetts, 209; Point site, 156-158, 156f, 157f
from Morrow site, 5; from New York State
Breastplates, copper, Hopewellian, 47, 52f, 55f, 56f,
Museum, 5; from RI 1000 site, 6; from Salts
57f, 58f; complexity of associated materials,
Cave site, 26; from Sebasticook Lake site,
65-67; fabrics on, 46, 51-52, 52f, 60, 61, 75-76,
161; from Sheep Rock Shelter, 5; structure
78, 78t, 79, 80t; materials identified on, 50t,
types, 21. See also Containers
50-61, 62, 63-67; yarns on, 81
Bast fiber: sewing thread from Cross Street Back Lot
Broadcloth, 188
Privy site, 176, 182
Brough, Walden Denison, 197, 199, 211
Beads. See Glass, Metal, Pearl, Shell
Burning Springs sub-period: chronology, 89f
Beds, grass-lined: at Sheep Rock Shelter, 5
Burr’s Hill (Rhode Island): fabrics, 175, 182
Bell (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 106; dates, 101-102;
location, 88f Butterworth, Jeffrey, 176
Bell phase: ceramics, 110; chronology, 89f; subsis- Buttonholes: from Hopewellian fabrics, 72
tence advantage of village locations, 109 Buttons: from 27/29 Endicott Street Privy site, 181;
Bell, Edward, 185, 186, 194 from New England, 194
Belts, leather: from Albany Almshouse Cemetery Cameron (New York): bag, 7; location, 4f
site, 8; from Dann site, 8; from Sandy Point Camp Run (Pennsylvania), 87
site, 147; from Washington Boro site, 8 Cane: matting, 73
Black Duck pottery, 9 Canoes, dugout: manufacture deduced from wood-
Blacklegs Town (Pennsylvania): location, 88f working tools, 11
Blanket: from Hopewell sites, 73 Canopy, fabric: from Hopewell sites, 73
Blustain, Malinda S., 5, 145 Carbonization: at Hopewell sites, 46, 71, 72, 73, 79;
Bobbin lace: from Cross Street Back Lot Privy site, preservation by, 5
176; from Geneva, New York, 6 Carr, Christopher, 47, 73, 74, 79
Boland (New York): attributes of cordage and fabric Castle Creek (New York): artifacts from, 5; attributes
impressed on Owasco vessels from, 133t; of cordage and fabric impressed on Owasco
location, 132f, 132, 134; site type, 132 vessels from, 133t, 138; location, 4f, 132f, 132,
Bolinger (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 97; cordage twist 134; site type, 132
on ceramics from, 104; location, 88f Casts: from cord-marked sherd, 134f; of fabric from
Bone, calcined: on Hopewellian copper artifacts, 50t, Hiscock site, 36-37; from fabric-impressed
51t, 59, 60, 62, 63 clay, 27f; from fabric-impressed sherd, 10f;
natural, formation of, 36; of perishable arti-
Boot: from Mill Pond site, 176. See also Shoes
facts, 9-10; procedures in making, 134, 135
Boucher (Vermont): bags, 6; cordage, 6, 160; dates,
Celts, copper, Hopewellian, 47, 53f, 56f, 73, 75f; com-
161; fabrics, 6, 160; garment, 161; location, 4f;
plexity of associated materials, 67; fabrics
wrapped twining, 206
on, 75f, 78t, 80t; materials identified on, 51t,
Boughton Hill (New York): bag, twined, 7, 205; “har- 61-63, 67, 73, 75
228 Index
Central Artery Project, 181 in Northeast, 163; Tram site, 7; Van Etten
Champlain, Samuel: at Eggemoggin Reach and site, 6; Walker’s Pond site, 143-150, 155-164
Penobscot River, 145; records by, 146 Containers: from RI 1000 site, 171. See also Bags,
Charring. See Carbonization Basketry
Chautauqua Cord-Marked ceramics, 98, 99, 100, 101, “Copper kettle burials,” 143, 146, 161, 164
102, 105; cordage twist on, 105-106; distribu- Copper. See Metal
tion of, 108, 110; from proto-Seneca sites, Copper: fabric structure types associated with, 79;
100; from Whittlesey tradition sites, 100 staining of fabric, 72. See also Metal
Chautauqua phase: ceramics, 102-103; chronology, Cordage, 21: attributes, 149; from Boucher site, 6;
89f, 102, 104; geographical area, 88f braided, 155; from Castle Creek site, 5; from
Chenango Point (New York): attributes of cordage Millbury III site, 5, 160; from New York State
and fabric impressed on Owasco vessels Museum, 5; from Northern Thorn Mound
from, 133t; location, 132f, 132, 134; site type, site, 26; presence deduced from attached
132 artifacts, 11; production steps, 81; from Salts
Chintz: addition to seventeenth-century twined bag, Cave site, 26; from Sandy Point site, 155-156,
198f, 200, 202, 202f; early-nineteenth-century 155f, 156, 157; from seventeenth-century
patterns, 202 twined bag, 200; from Sheep Rock Shelter, 5;
Church, Flora, 71, 74, 78, 79 from Squaw Rockshelter, 24-25, 25f; from
Walker’s Pond site, 155-156; women as pro-
Cider Mill (New York): attributes of cordage and
ducers in Powhatan chiefdom, 91
fabric impressed on Owasco vessels from,
133t, 138; foreign manufactured pots at, 138; Cordage impressions on pottery: in Gulf of Maine
location, 132f, 132, 134; site type, 132 region, 162; methodology for study, 92, 134;
on Owasco ceramics, 133t, 137-138; on Point
Cleland, Charles E., 108
Peninsula ceramics, 133t, 135, 137, 138; in
Clemsons Island culture: chronology, 89f studies of group affiliations, 10, 87-111, 131,
Cleveland Museum of Natural History: Hopewellian 135, 137-139; in studies of interaction, 139;
fabrics from, 72 from Susquehanna Valley of New York, 135,
Cloth, European: from Fort William Henry, 8; from 137-139; from Upper Ohio River Valley of
Pictou site, 6; from Portland Point site, 6; western Pennsylvania, 87-111. See also
from Van Etten site, 6. See also Fabric, Cordage twist direction
Textiles Cordage twist direction: in Amazon ethnographic
Cloth: from Hopewell sites, 46. See also Fabric, specimens, 162; in Eastern Woodland area,
Textiles study of, 90-92; frequencies in samples from
Coat fabrics: from Fort William Henry, 8 Johnston phase sites, 107; frequencies in
Coiling: as basketry structure, 21 samples from Mead Island phase sites, 109;
frequencies in samples from Monongahela
Conemaugh Cord-Impressed pottery, 100, 101; distri-
sites, 93, 96f, 104-105, 118-122; frequencies in
bution of, 101, 106-107, 108
samples from Owasco sites, 133t; frequencies
Conservation procedures: for Hiscock site specimen, in samples from Pennsylvania, New York,
33-34 and Ontario, 93, 94f, 95f, 104-105,112-117; fre-
Contact period: Adams site, 6; arm band, 6; bags, 6, quencies in samples from Point Peninsula
7; belts, 8; bobbin lace, 6; Boughton Hill site, sites, 133t; in Gulf of Maine region, 162, 209;
7; bow, 6; Cameron site, 7; cloth, European, as indicator of group affiliation: 90-92, 110-
6; composite constructions, 156-160; “copper 111, 162; as indicator of male vs. female pro-
kettle burials,” 143; Dann site, 7; definition duction, 91; as indicator of social interaction,
of, 13; fabrics, 6, 152, 154; foreshafts, arrow, 162-163; influences on, 92; in northern New
6; Grimsby cemetery site, 7; hafts, knife, 6; England, 92; in Potomac River basin, 91; at
handles, sword, 6; matting, 6; moccasins, 6; Quicksburg site, 90; reporting conventions
Pictou site, 6; Portland Point site, 6; for impressed examples, 91, 92; from Sandy
Rochester Junction site, 7; Sandy Point site, Point site, 155f, 155-156; from Virginia sites,
143-163; scabbards, 6; social interaction in 90-91; from Walker’s Pond site, 155-156. See
Northeast, 162-163; trade goods, 146; trade also Cordage impressions on pottery
Index 229
Cord-marked sherds, 134f, 137f, 138f Early Woodland period: Augustine Mound site, 6,
Cotton textiles: additions to seventeenth-century 160; basketry, 5, 26, 161; Boucher site, 6, 160,
twined bag, 200, 202; from Cross Street Back 161; cordage, 26, 160; Cresap site, 27-28,
Lot Privy site, 176, 179f, 182; from Long dates, 12, 26; fabric, 26-27, 160; fish net, 5;
Pond site, 172, 182; from Burr’s Hill site, 182; garment, 161; hafted flaking tool, 5; Mason
from RI 1000 site, 170, 171f, 182 site, 160; Morrow site, 5; Muskalonge Lake
Cresap (West Virginia): cultural period of perish- site, 6; Natrium Mound site, 27; Northern
ables, 22t; fabric, 27-28; location, 20; twining, Thorn Mound site, 26-27; plaiting, 26; Salts
28 Cave site, 26; sandals, 26; Sebasticook Lake
site, 161; shell beads, 161; twining, 26-27, 27f
Cross Street Back Lot Privy (Massachusetts): clothing
construction at, 176, 178f, 182; dates, 175; Eastman, Phillip, 198, 212, 213
fabrics, 175-176, 176f, 177f, 178f, 179f, 182; Eastman, Seth: related to Susannah Eastman Wood
location, 170f; shoes, 176, 179f, 180f Swan, 213
Crowe/O’Conner (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 104; Eastman family: captivities of members, 212-213
chronology, 104; location, 88f; pipe types, 104 Eastwall (Ohio): date, 100; location, 88f
Currie, Doug, 176 Edinburg (Pennsylvania): components, 97; location,
Cushing, Frank, 11 88f
Daggers: from Pictou site, 7 Edinburg phase: chronology, 89f; ceramics, 97; possi-
Dann (New York): bag, 7; belt, leather, 8; location, 4f ble population discontinuity from Mahoning
phase groups, 104
Davis, Christine, 11
Edwin Harness Mound (Ohio), 46, 71
Décima, Elena, 4
Egli (New York): attributes of cordage and fabric
Deitrick, Veronica L., 91
impressed on Owasco vessels from, 133t;
Dice, fruit stone, 7 location, 132f, 132, 134; site type, 132
Diet: in Contact period Maine, 148 Eighteenth century: bags, St. Lawrence Valley
Dincauze, Dena, 4, 131 Iroquoian, 205; clothing, 192; Cross Street
Doyle, Richard A., 131 Back Lot Privy site, 175; fabrics, 6, 172, 175-
Drills, wooden: from Sheep Rock Shelter, 4 176, 181; Long Pond site, 172-175; Seneca
Drooker, Penelope B., 131, 197, 210 Road burials, 181; Van Etten site, 6
Dry sites, preservation at, 4-5 Eliot, John, 192
Duffles (trucking cloth), 194 Emery, Irene, 134
Dustin, Hannah, 199, 212 Epidemics: in Maine, 146, 163
Dutch Hill (Pennsylvania): cordage twist on ceram- Erickson, Harley, 147
ics from, 105; location, 88f Etchemin people, 146
Dyes: from Long Pond site, 172; from RI 2000 site, Ethnohistorical analogy, 12
171-172 Experimental archaeology, 12
Early / Middle Archaic period: dates, 12; Russ site, Fabric: animal hair, Hopewellian, 51-52, 55f, 56f, 60,
2; stone artifacts, 2 61, 62, 63; from Ater site, 73, 76, 78t; from
Early Archaic period: Arnold Research Cave site, 24; Augustine Mound, 6; braided/plaited, 4, 6;
dates, 12, 24, 39; Graham Cave site, 24, 39; from Boucher site, 6; from Boughton Hill
Hiscock site, 24, 31-40; Ice House Bottom site, 8; from Cresap Mound site, 27-28; from
site, 24, 39; Modoc Rockshelter, 24, 39; Fortney site, 73; function, determination of,
Russell Cave site, 24, 40; sandals, 24; twin- 74-75; from Hartford Cemetery site, 5; from
ing, 24, 39-40 Hopewell site, 52f, 56f, 71, 72t, 73, 76, 78t; on
Early Holocene period: Hiscock site, 10 Hopewellian copper artifacts: 50t, 51-52, 52f,
53f, 54f, 55f, 56f, 57f, 58f, 60, 61, 73, 75-83, 75f,
Early Late Prehistoric period: ceramics, 130-131;
76f, 82f, 83f; with Hopewellian cremation
dates for Northeast, 129, 130; in
remains, 79; interlaced, 6, 8, 51-52, 55f, 56f,
Susquehanna Valley of New York, 129-130
57f, 58f, 76, 77f; from Liberty site, 78t; from
Early Late Woodland period: dates for Northeast, New York State Museum, 5, 7f; from
129 Northern Thorn Mound, 26-27, 27f; painted,
230 Index
60; from Pictou site, 6; plant fiber, Figurine, wooden: from Marsh site, 8
Hopewellian, 51, 52f, 54f, 57f, 58f, 60, 61, 62, Fire drills: from Sheep Rock Shelter, 4
63, 75f, 77f, 82f, 83f; from Rockhold site, 78t; Fire-starting kits: from Hartford Cemetery site, 5
from Sandy Point site, 150-155, 152f, 153f,
Fish sandwiches: definition of, 21
154f; from Seip site 46, 51, 53f, 54f, 55f, 56f,
57f, 58f, 60, 71, 72t, 75, 75f, 76, 78, 78t; sewn, Fishhooks: from Castle Creek site, 5
6; sewn onto backings, 51-52; from Sheep Fitting, James E., 108
Rock Shelter, 5; twined, 5, 6, 7f, 52f, 53f,54f, Flax: from Cross Street Back Lot Privy site, 176
75f, 76, 82f, 83f; from Van Etten site, 6; from Flowers: on Hopewellian copper artifacts, 59
White site, 5. See also Bobbin lace, Cloth, Foreshafts, arrow: from Susquehannock sites, 6
Cotton, Interlacing, Silk, Textiles, Twining,
Fort Ancient (Ohio): copper artifacts, 47t; location,
Wool, individual sites
48f; materials on breastplates, 64t, 65, 66-67
Fabric, cast of: from Hiscock site, 33-38, 35f, 36f; from
Fort William Henry (New York): cloth from gar-
Northern Thorn Mound site, 27f
ments, 8; location, 4f
Fabric impressions on fired clay: from Graham Cave
Fortin II (New York): attributes of cordage and fabric
site, 39
impressed on Point Peninsula vessels from,
Fabric impressions on metal: at Hopewell sites, 71 133t; cord-marked sherd from, 137f; “for-
Fabric impressions in mud: from Pictou site, 9 eign” containers at, 137; location, 132f, 132,
Fabric impressions on pottery: from Boucher site, 9; 134; site type, 131-132
from Long Island, 9; from northwestern Fortney (Ohio): ceremonial items, construction of,
Pennsylvania, 10; from Owasco sites, 133t, 66; copper artifacts, 47t; fabrics, 73; location,
137, 138; from Point Peninsula sites, 133t, 48f; materials on breastplates, 64t, 65
137; from Slack Farm site, with cast of fabric, Foundation: in coiling, 21
10f
Freeze-drying: as treatment for archaeological tex-
Fabric stains on stone bayonets: at Overlock site, 10- tiles, 173-174, 175
11
Fremont adaptive strategy model, 100-101; as appli-
“False embroidery,” 203f, 204; in Algonquian bags, cable to McFate phase people, 100-101
205; in Iroquoian pouches, 205, 210. See also
French and Indian attacks on New England commu-
Twining
nities, 199
Feathers: attached to fabrics, 53, 53f, 61; on
French and Indian War: burials, 8; cloth from gar-
Hopewellian copper artifacts: 52-53, 55f, 57f,
ments, 8
58f, 61, 62, 63, 66-67, 73, 76; from Sheep Rock
Shelter, 5 French Creek phase: ceramics, 98, 99; chronology,
89f, 98; components, 98; cordage twist distri-
Fenner, Dinah, basket identified with: description,
bution and frequency at components, 95f,
205-206, 209t; pattern motif, 206f
104; settlement types, 98
Fiber, plant: bags, 5, 6; band, interlaced, 8; bast-like,
Frontenac Island (New York): garment deduced from
81; combined with leather in twined fabrics,
pattern of affixed ornaments, 11; location, 4f
153-154, 154f; cordage, 5, 155-156; fabrics, 5,
6; fish net, 5; “Group 1,” 76, 81; milkweed, Fulling, 175
81; netting, 5; pack straps, 5; sandals, 5; Fur / hair: from Hartford Cemetery site, 5; on
sheaths, knife, 7; snares, 5; trot line, 5; in Hopewellian copper artifacts, 50t, 51, 53, 56f,
wampum bands, 172; yarns, 76, 81. See also 59, 62, 63, 66, 67, 73, 76, 78; from Sheep Rock
Cordage, Fabric, Twining Shelter, 5; “woven,” 78
Fibers, animal: in clothing from Albany Almshouse GAP tradition, 98, 99, 100; cooperation with Upper
cemetery site, 8-9; in fabrics from Seip site, Allegheny River Valley groups, 98; cordage
72; on metal beads from Sandy Point site, twist differing from Monongahela, 106; eco-
157. See Hair, animal nomic strategies, 100, 108; possible terminal
Fibers, bast (plant stem): in fabrics from Seip site, 72 occupation of, 104. See Allegheny Plateau,
glaciated
Fibers, knotted, 21
Garment fragments: from Albany Almshouse ceme-
Field Museum of Natural History: Hopewellian fab-
tery site, 8-9; from Boucher site, 6; from
rics from, 72, 73, 79, 80t
Portland Point site, 6; from Seneca Road site,
Index 231
189f, 191; from Walker’s Pond site, 158-160, location, 132f, 132, 134; site type, 132
159f Hinkle, Kathleen, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76
Garments: nineteenth century styles, 193f, 194-195, Hiscock (New York): cast of fabric, 10, 23-24, 33-38,
195f; presence deduced from patterns of 35f, 36f; conservation procedures for speci-
affixed ornaments, 11 men from, 33-34; cultural period of perish-
George, Richard, 87, 107 ables, 22t; dates, 31, 33, 38, 40-41; lithics, 33;
Gibbons, Michael, 147, 148, 186, 194 location, 4f, 20f, 31, 32f; twining, 22t, 23-24,
Glass beads, 162 24f, 34-36 35f, 36f, 40
Gookin, Daniel, 209 Hoffman, Kathryn Browning, 11
Gordon, Joleen, 12 Holland, C. G., 90, 91
Graham Cave (Missouri): cultural period of perish- Hopewell (Ohio): ceremonial items, construction of,
ables, 22t, 39; dates, 39; location, 32f; twin- 66; copper artifacts, 47t, 52f, 54f, 56f, 61, 62;
ing, 22t, 24, 39 fabrics, 52f, 56f, 71, 72t, 73, 76, 78, 79, 80t;
feathers, 73; flowers, 59; fur, 73; hair, 62; leaf
Greenman, Emerson, 72
segments, 60; leather, 61; location, 48f, 70f;
Grimsby (Ontario): location, 4f; preservation of arti- materials on breastplates, 63, 64t, 65, 73, 75-
facts at, 7 76, 78; materials on celts, 73, 76; mounds, 70;
Guthe, Alfred, 98 warp twining, 75; yarn anomalies, 81; yarn
Haft, wooden: from Adams site, 6; from Muskalonge diameters, 79t
Lake site, 6; from Pictou site, 6; from Hopewell tradition, 45-46, 69-71; dates, 69; earth-
Winthrop, Massachusetts, 6 works, 70-71; fabrics, 6; grave goods, exotic,
Hair, animal: as decorative wrapping, 6; fabrics, on 71; human effigy pipe, 12; matting, 73;
Hopewellian copper artifacts, 51-52, 55f, 56f, McKees Rocks Mound site, 6; mounds, 70-
60, 66; in “false embroidery,” 204; yarns, 6. 71; Newark site, 12; settlement pattern, 70;
See also Fur / hair textiles, 51-58, 71-83; yarns, 81, 83. See also
Hamell, George R., 1, 197, 210 Ater, Fort Ancient, Fortney, Harness,
Hamilton, Nathan D., 131 Hopewell, Liberty, Mound City, Rockhold,
Seip, Tremper
Handle, sword, wooden: from Pictou site, 6
Huffman Farm (Pennsylvania): location, 88f
Harness (Ohio): ceremonial items, construction of,
66; copper artifacts, 62; location, 70f; materi- Hurley, William M., 134
als on breastplates, 63, 64t, 65. See also Huron Incised ceramics, 99
Liberty / Harness I-79 (Pennsylvania): location, 88f
“Harness,” leather garment: from Boughton Hill site, Icehouse Bottom (Tennessee): cultural period of per-
8; worn by nineteenth century entertainers, 8 ishables, 22t, 39; knotted netting, 22t, 23;
Hartford Cemetery (Maine): fabrics, 5, 160; fire-start- location, 32f; twining, 22t, 24, 39
ing kits, 5; fur, 5; location, 4f Images: as evidence for perishable objects, 11-12
Hastorf, Christine, 11 Impression, positive. See Cast
Hats, felt: from Albany Almshouse Cemetery site, 8 Impressions: on fired clay, 39; on pottery, 9-10. See
Hawley, Gideon, 192 also Cordage impressions on pottery, Fabric
Headbands: wampum, from Long Pond site, 172 impressions
Headdress. See Headplate Indian Camp Run (Pennsylvania), 87; cordage twist
on ceramics from, 104, 109; location, 88f
Headplates, copper, Hopewellian, 47, 54f; complexity
of associated materials, 67; materials identi- Indian hemp, 172, 173, 182
fied on, 51t, 61, 62, 67, 75 Indigo: from Sandy’s Point site, 185; from Seneca
Heckenberger, Michael, 6 Road site, 191
Heinz Farm (Pennsylvania): location, 88f Indigotin: from RI 1000 site, 172
Herbstritt, James T., 105, 110 Interlacing, oblique: from Ater site, 76; from
Hopewell site, 73, 76, 79, 80t; from
Hide. See Leather / hide
Hopewellian sites, 71, 73, 76, 77, 78t, 79, 80t;
Hilltop (New York): attributes of cordage and fabric “novelty” yarns in, 78; from Seip site, 66,
impressed on Owasco vessels from, 133t; 72t, 76
232 Index
Interlacing: from Ater site, 76, 78t; from Hopewell Knitting: from Cross Street Back Lot Privy site, 176;
site, 76, 78t, 80t; on Hopewellian copper arti- from Long Pond site, 172; in New England,
facts, 51-52, 55f, 56f, 57f, 58f, 76, 77f, 80t; from 194; from Seneca Road site, 181, 188, 189f
Hopewellian sites, 71, 72, 73, 76, 79, 80t; Knotting: from Squaw Rockshelter, 25, 25f
from RI 2000 site, 170-171; from Seip site, 76, Krafic (Pennsylvania): cordage twist data, 107
78. See also Plain weave, Plaiting, Twill
Kroon, E. Leonard, 9
weave
Krueger, Harold, 148
Interlinking: from Hopewell sites, 72, 73; impressed
on Owasco pottery, 133t, 138; impressed on Lamoka Lake (New York): artifacts from, 2, 11; dio-
Point Peninsula pottery, 133t, 137 rama depicting, 2, 3f; location, 4f
Intrustive Mound complex: ceramics, 97, 98; cordage Late Archaic period: artifacts, 2, 3f, 25-26; canoes, 11;
twist distribution and frequency in, 94f, 104 cordage, 26; bark containers, 26; dates, 12,
25; fabrics, 5, 160; fabric stains on stone bay-
Iroquoian bags: designs on, 205; twining twist direc-
onets, 10-11, 160; fire-starting kits, 5; fish
tion, 210
weirs, 4; Hartford Cemetery site, 5, 160;
Iroquoian ceramics: at Silverheels site, 99; at Smith Lamoka Lake site, 2, 11; Meadowcroft
site, 100; at Westfield-Mac site, 99 Rockshelter, 25-26; Overlock site, 11, 160;
J. Falcone (New York): ceramics, 102; location, 88f plaiting, 23f, 25-26; River phase sites, 11;
J. H. Boyce & Son, 198, 210; hatbox of, 198, 210 Salts Cave site, 26; sandals, 26; shell beads,
Jack’s Reef Corded Collar ceramics, 97 161
Jackets: from Albany Almshouse Cemetery site, 8; Late Middle Woodland period: dates for Northeast,
from Sandy Point site, 147 129
Jakes, Kathryn, 72, 74, 81 Late Prehistoric period: for Upper Ohio Valley, 89f,
Jamba (New York): attributes of cordage and fabric 90. See also early Late Prehistoric
impressed on Owasco vessels from, 133t; Late Woodland period: arrows, 4; awls, 4; bags, 5;
location, 132f, 132, 134; site type,132 bark container, 5; basketry, 5; bowls, 5;
John Milner Associates, Inc., 175 Castle Creek site, 5; chronology for Middle
and Upper Ohio Valley, 90; chronology for
Johnson, Simon (Wampanoag), 193f
northwestern Pennsylvania, 89f, 90; cordage,
Johnson, William C., 91, 980 5; cordage twist in southeastern Virginia, 91-
Johnson-Dibb, Rebecca 172 92; cultural sequence for northwestern
Johnston (Pennsylvania): cordage impression sam- Pennsylvania, 93, 97, 98-102, 104; dates, 12;
ples, from, 93; cordage twist data, 107; loca- fabrics, 5; feathers, 5; fire drills, 4; fishhooks,
tion, 88f 5; fur, 5; knotted netting, 5; leather, 4; mat-
Johnston phase: ceramics, 101, 106; chronology, 89f; ting, 5; moccasins, 5; pack straps, 5; sandals,
cordage twist distribution and frequency at 5; Sheep Rock Shelter, 4-5; snares, 5; spoons,
components, 97f; geographical area, 88f; 5; thongs, 4; trot line, 5. See also Early Late
population as mixture of McFate and Woodland period
Monongahela, 107 Lawrence (New York): ceramics, 102; location, 88f
Kalgren (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 106; date, 101-102; Leaf: matting made from, 52
location, 88f Leaf segments: on Hopewellian copper artifacts, 60
Kalgren/Bell phase: cordage twist distribution and Leather / hide: arm band, 6; bags, 5, 6; belts, 8; with
frequency at components, 95f; geographical burials, 147, 148, 150-151, 154; in composite
area, 88f constructions, 150, 153-154, 156-160, 156f;
Kane (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 107; cordage twist on garment fragment, 158-160, 161; “harness,”
ceramics from, 105, 107; location, 88f 8; on Hopewellian copper artifacts, 50t, 51,
Kent State University: Hopewellian fabrics from, 72 53, 54f, 57f, 58f, 61, 62, 63, 78; moccasins, 5, 6;
Kent, Barry C., 5, 105, 110 pieces, 4; scabbards, 6; shoes, 8, 176, 179f,
180f, 181-182; suspenders, 8; thongs, 4, 6,
Kermes: from RI 1000 site, 172
155, 157, 158; in twined fabric, 153, 154f
King Philip’s War, 199, 205, 212
Levanna Cord-on-Cord sherds from Apalachian
Kipp Island (New York): location, 4f Creek site, 138f
Kiskiminetas phase: chronology, 89f
Index 233
Liberty / Harness (Ohio): copper artifacts, 47t, 62; 6; from RI 1000 site, 8, 171; from Sheep Rock
fabrics, 71, 72t, 78t; location, 48f; materials Shelter, 5; as shrouds and grave linings, 172;
on breastplates, 63, 64t, 65, 76, 78t; mounds, from Walker’s Pond site, 148
70, 71. See also Harness (Ohio) Mawooshen: location, 146
Linesville (Pennsylvania): cordage twist on ceramics McFate (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 98, 99; dates, 100;
from, 105; location, 88f excavation of, 93, 97; location, 88f; Village
Logan, Judith, 38 No. 1 at, 99-100
Long Pond (Connecticut): Bible page fragment, 172, McFate (Pennsylvania): location, 4f; cord-wrapped
173f, 174f; dates, 172; dyes, 172; graves, 172; potter’s paddle, 5
location, 170f, 172; matting, 172; textiles, 172, McFate Incised ceramics, 99, 100, 101, 102, 105, 106;
173f, 174f; wampum band fragments, 172, cordage twist on, 105-106; derivation from
173f Middleport Ontario Iroquoian tradition
Loop and twist fabric structure: at Hopewell site, 80t ceramics, 99; distribution of, 101, 106-107,
Looping: from Hopewellian sites, 72 108, 110
Loparto, Leonard W., 186 McFate phase: ceramics, 99; chronology, 89f, 98, 99,
Luray complex: ceramics, 91; cordage twist attrib- 100; components, 99-100; cordage twist dis-
utes, 91 tribution and frequency at components, 95f,
104; economic/subsistence strategies, 100-
MacNeish, Richard S., 130
101, 108, 110; population movement, 101-
Macrobotanical materials: on Hopewellian copper 102, 103f, 106-110; relationship to Mahoning
artifacts, 50t, 51t, 59, 60, 61-62 phase, 110; site types, 100, 102
Madder: from RI 1000 site, 172 McFate-Kalgren phase: ceramics, 110; chronology,
Madsen, David B., 100 89f; subsistence advantage of village loca-
Mahoning Cord-Marked ceramics, 98; cordage twist tions, 109
on, 105-106. See also Mahoning ware McJunkin (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 106; cordage
Mahoning phase: ceramics, 98; chronology, 89f, 98; impression samples, from, 93; cordage twist
components, 98; cordage twist direction, 109; data, 107; date, 101-102; location, 88f
possible population discontinuity from McKees Rock Mound (Pennsylvania): location, 4f,
Edinburg phase groups, 104; relationship to 20f; perishables from, 22t, 27
McFate phase, 110 McKinley (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 107; cordage
Mahoning ware, 97, 98, 104, 106; cordage twist on, twist data, 107; hunting focus at, 108; loca-
104. See also Mahoning Cord-Marked tion, 88f
ceramics McNeil, Cameron L., 171
Malecite people: cordage twist direction of, 92 Mead Island phase: chronology, 89f, 107; cordage
Maliseet-Passamaquoddy people, 146 twist from components, 104, 109; geographi-
Marsh (New York): dating, 5; location, 4f; wooden cal area, 88f
effigy face from, 5 Meadowcroft Rockshelter (Pennsylvania): bark, cut,
Mashantucket Pequot: burial practices, seventeenth 23, 26; cultural periods of perishables, 22t;
century, 182; reservation, 172; Tribal Council, location, 20f, 32f; plaiting, 22t, 23, 23f, 25, 25-
172; tribe, 182 26, 38
Mashpee people: clothing styles, 191, 192, 195; histo- Metal: axe, 153, 161; beads, 6, 147, 148, 151, 152, 153,
ry, 192; subsistence, 192 156f, 156-157, 172, 173f; breastplates, 47, 52f,
Maslowski, Robert, 92, 131 55f, 56f, 57f, 58f, 66-67, 77f, 82f; buttons, 8;
Mason (Maine): dates, 161; fabric, 160 celts, 47, 53f, 56f; ceremonial objects, 6;
“clips,” 7; daggers, 7; earspools, 6; flaking
Massachusetts Bay Colony, 192, 194
tool, 5; gorget, 6; headband, 152; headplates,
Massachusetts Historical Commission, 181, 185, 186, 47, 54f; kettles, 6, 143, 146, 147, 151f, 162;
187 knives, 6; nuggets, 6; plate, 148; preservation
Matthews, Mercy Nonsuch (Western Niantic): hold- by, 5-8, 46-67, 71, 147, 148, 150, 151, 151-152,
ing appliqued pouch, 195 159, 170, 172, 173f, 174f, 175f, 176, 179f
Matting: from Hopewell sites, 46, 52, 73, 78; from Mica effigy forms, at Hopewell sites, 71
New York State Museum, 5; from Pictou site,
234 Index
Micmac (Mi’kmaq) people, 146; trade with Munsee. See Van Etten (New York)
Europeans, 163. See also Souriquois people Muskalonge Lake (New York): hafted copper flaking
Middle Archaic period: cordage, 24-25, 25f; dates, 12, tool, 6; location, 4f
24; Frontenac Island site, 11; knotting, 25, Nailor, Katherine Nanny: family privy 175, 182
25f; Meadowcroft Rockshelter, 24; plaiting, Narragansett: burial practices, seventeenth century,
25; shirt or jacket, 11; Squaw Rockshelter, 24- 182; people, 169, 171; tribe, 182
25. See also Early / Middle Archaic
Native American Graves Protection and Repatriation
Middle Woodland period: cordage, 5; cordage twist Act (NAGPRA), 145
in southeastern Virginia, 91; cultural
Natrium Mound (West Virginia), 27; cultural period
sequence for northwestern Pennsylvania, 93,
of perishables, 22t; location, 20f
97; dates, 12, 91; shell beads, 161. See also
Hopewell, Hopewell tradition, Late Middle Net, fish: from Morrow site, 4
Woodland period Netsinkers: from Morrow site, 5
Middlesex complex: dates, 161; sites, 160 Netting: definition of, 21; impressed on pottery, 91;
Mill Pond (Massachusetts): shoe and boot, 176 knotted, 5; looped, 72
Millbury III (Massachusetts): cordage from, 5, 160; Neutral. See Grimsby cemetery (Ontario)
dating, 5; location, 4f New York State Museum: Cultural Resource Survey
Mills, Peter, 186 Program at, 8; exhibits at, 1, 2, 2f, 3f, 12f
Mills, William C., 45, 46 Newark (Ohio): location, 4; human effigy pipe from,
12
Minar, C. Jill, 92
Nineteenth century: 27/29 Endicott Street Privy site,
Mineralization, 9, 83, 182; at Cross Street Back Lot
181; clothing styles, 192, 193f, 195f; Mill
Privy site, 176, 179f, 182; at Long Pond site,
Pond site, 176
172, 173f, 174f, 175f, 182; at RI 1000 site, 172,
182 Ninigret: portrait of, 12
Miscellaneous fiber constructions: as a compositional Northern Thorn Mound (West Virginia): cordage,
“class”, 21 22t, 26; cultural period of perishables, 22t;
location, 20f; twining, 22t, 26-27, 27f
Moccasins, leather: from Pictou site, 6; from Sheep
Rock Shelter, 5 Occam, Samson, 192
Modoc Rockshelter (Illinois): cultural period of per- Ocher, red: from Hartford Cemetery site, 6; from
ishables, 22t, 39; dates, 39; location, 32f; Sandy Point site, 157; from Walker’s Pond
twining, 22t, 24, 39 site, 159
Mohegan: bag, 205, 207t Ocket, Molly (aka, Marie Agathe, Mollocket), 205;
pocketbook made by, 205, 207t
Molds, of baskets, 9
Ohio Historical Center: Hopewellian fabrics from,
Monongahela: garments deduced from bead disposi-
71, 72, 73, 75-83
tion, 11
Ohio Historical Society, 46, 72,73, 74, 79, 80t. See also
Monongahela Cord-Marked ceramics: cordage twist
Ohio Historical Center
on, 105-106
Ohio Valley: location, 19; occupational history, 19-20
Monongahela culture: chronology, 89f, 90; cordage
twist on ceramics, 106; cordage twist differ- Ojibway: twined bags, 205, 207t, 210
ing from GAP tradition, 106; geographical Orchard Knoll (New York): attributes of cordage and
area, 88f fabric impressed on Owasco vessels from,
Moorehead phase/tradition: dates, 160; fiber perish- 133t; location, 132f, 132, 134; site type, 132
ables, 160 Ordoñez, Margaret T., 172, 181
Moorehead, Warren K., 45, 145, 146, 147, 156 Ottawa bags: twining twist direction, 210
Morrow (New York): basketry, 5; knotted netting, 5; “Ottawa biotype” adaptation, 108
location, 4f Ouleout Creek (New York): attributes of cordage and
Mound City (Ohio): breastplate, 66; fabrics, 73; loca- fabric impressed on Point Peninsula vessels
tion, 70f; materials on breastplate, 66; from, 133t; ceramics, 135; location, 132f, 132,
mounds, 70, 71 134; “foreign” containers at, 137; site type,
Mrozowski, Stephen, 185 131-132
Index 235
Overlock (Maine): fabric stains on stone bayonets Plaiting: as basketry structure, 21, 149; combined
from, 10-11, 160; location, 4f with twining, 151-152, 152f, 153f; from
Owasco Corded Horizontal sherds from Street site, Meadowcroft Rockshelter, 23, 23f, 25, 25-26;
138f from Salts Cave site, 26; from Sandy Point
Owasco Iroquoian groups: evidence for migration of, site, 151-155, 152f, 153f, 154f; from RI 1000
130 site, 171; from Russell Cave site, alleged, 40.
See also Interlacing
Owasco tradition, 130; artifacts from Castle Creek
site, 5; ceramics, 130-131, 137; cordage Plant materials. See Macrobotanical materials
impressed on pottery, 133t, 137-138; dates, Pocketbook, twined, 205
130; fabrics impressed on pottery, 133t, 138 Point Peninsula tradition, 130; ceramics, 130, 131,
Pack straps: from Sheep Rock Shelter, 5 135; cordage impressed on pottery, 133t, 135;
Padelford, William F., family privy, 181 dates, 130; fabrics impressed on pottery,
133t, 137
Painting: on textiles from Seip site, 72
Portland Point (New Brunswick): cloth, European,
Paleoindian period: artifacts, 2, 23-24; dates, 12, 23;
woolen, 6; location, 4f; trimming, European,
Hiscock site, 23; Meadowcroft Rockshelter,
6
23; plaiting, 23; twining, 23-24. See also
Hiscock (New York), Meadowcroft Port-Melnick (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 97; cordage
Rockshelter (Pennsylvania) twist on ceramics from, 104; location, 88f
Panthers Rockshelter (Pennsylvania): cordage twist Potawatomi bags: twining twist direction, 210
on ceramics from, 105; location, 88f Potomac River basin: ceramics attributes, 91; cordage
Pants fabric: from Fort William Henry, 8 twist attributes, 91; population movements
in, 91
Pants, wool: from Albany Almshouse Cemetery site,
8 Potter’s paddle, cord-wrapped: from McFate site, 5
Parker, Caroline G. (Seneca), 194, 195f Pouch. See Bag
Passamaquoddy people: cordage twist direction of, Pound Blank ceramics, 99
92 Powers Run (Pennsylvania): cordage twist on ceram-
Pearl beads: from Ater Mound site, 71; from ics from, 105; location, 88f
Hopewell mound group, 71; preserved on Powhatan chiefdom: cordage production, 91
Hopewellian copper artifacts, 50t, 51t, 57f, Praying towns, 192
60, 62; from Seip site, 71 Preservation, of perishable materials, 3-9: by car-
Pennsylvania Historical Commission, 93, 97 bonization, 5; at dry sites, 4-5; by metal, 5-8,
Penobscot people, 146 46, 50-67; due to short-term burial, 8-9; at
Perishables, fiber: methods for analysis of, 47-50, wet sites, 3-4
148-150; types of artifacts, 21 Prezzano, Susan C., 131, 134
Petersen, James B., 4, 92, 131, 145, 148, 209 Prostitute household: artifacts from, 181-182
Pictou (Nova Scotia): arm band, 6; bags, 6; bow, 6; Protohistoric period: cultural sequence for north-
cloth, European, 6; fabrics, 6; hafts, knife, 6; western Pennsylvania, 104; definition of, 13;
handles, sword, 6; location, 4f; matting, 6; Marsh site, 5; for Monongahela culture, 89f,
moccasins, 6; replication of basketry from, 90; Sheep Rock Shelter, artifacts from, 4-5;
12; scabbards, 6 wooden effigy face, 5
Pigment: on fabrics, 60; on Hopewellian copper arti- Pseudomorphs: at Cross Street Back Lot Privy site,
facts, 60 176, 179f, 182; definitions of, 5, 83; of fabrics,
Pillows, burial, 192-194, 195 5, 9, 75, 75f, 172; at Long Pond site, 172, 182;
negative, 182; positive, 182; preservation as,
Pipes: Acorn ring-bowl, 104; Bulbous ring-bowl, 104;
5, 9; at RI 1000 site, 172, 182
human effigy, 12; protohistoric Seneca, 104
Putnam, Frederic W., 45, 46
Plain weave fabric: from Cross Street Back Lot Privy
site, 176, 178f, 179f, 182; from Long Pond Quicksburg (Virginia): cordage twist direction from,
site, 172, 174f, 182; from RI 1000 site, 170; 90-91
from Santuit Pond site, 185; from Seneca Quiggle (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 105, 110, 111;
Road site, 181, 187, 188f, 190f, 191f cordage twist on ceramics from, 105, 110;
location, 88f; McFate phase refugees at, 111
236 Index
Quiggle Incised ceramics, 110; twist of cordage Salts Cave site, 26; from Sheep Rock Shelter,
impressed on, 110 5
Quiggle phase: cordage twist distribution and fre- Sandy Point (Maine): analytical procedures for arti-
quency at components, 95f facts from, 148-150; archaeological context,
Quill, porcupine: constructions, 150, 156, 158, 158f; in 145, 146-147; breastplate, 156-158, 156f, 157;
“false embroidery,” 204 burials, 145, 147, 148, 157; composite con-
Repatriation: of burial assemblages from Sandy structions, 150, 156-158, 156f, 157f, 158f, 160;
Point and Walker’s Pond sites, 145 cordage, 151, 155f, 155-156; diet, 148; ethno-
historic context, 145-146; fabrics, 150-155,
Residues, carbonized, on sherds, 99-100; dates from,
152f, 153f, 154f, 160; health of population,
100
147; hide/leather, 153-154, 156-158, 160; loca-
Rhode Island Historical Preservation and Heritage tion, 143, 144f, 145, 146; metal trade goods,
Commission (Rhode Island Historical 147, 151f; quill, 150, 156,158, 158f; shell
Preservation Commission), 169-170, 182 beads, 147; twist direction in specimens
Rhode Island Historical Society, 205 from, 162
RI 1000 Cemetery (Rhode Island), 169-170: analytical Sandy’s Point (Massachusetts): fabric, 185
methods for textiles from, 170-171; bags, 8; Santuit Pond (Massachusetts): fabric, 185
baskets, 8; burials, 170; containers, 171, 182;
Sashes: wampum, from Long Pond site, 172
dates, 170; deerskin, 170; dyes, 171-172; fab-
rics, 8, 170-172, 171f; fiber types, 170; grave Sauk/Fox bags: twining twist direction, 210
liners, 171; mats, 8, 171, 182; mineralization Scabbards, sword: from Pictou site, 6
of fabrics at, 171, 172; location, 4f, 170f Schock, Jack, 102, 103
Ribbons, silk: from Cross Street Back Lot Privy site, Schoff, Harry, 93
176, 177f, 178f Sculpey III Modeling Compound: problems from
Rieth, Christina B., 134 residues left by, 135, 136; casting procedures
Ritchie, William A., 4, 11, 130 utilized, 134, 135
River-Street (New York): attributes of cordage and Sebasticook Lake (Maine): basketry, bark, 161; dat-
fabric impressed on Owasco vessels from, ing, 4, 161; fish weir use at, 4; location, 4f
133t, 137, 138; foreign manufactured pots at, Secondary evidence, of perishable materials, 9-12; by
138; location, 132f, 132, 134; site type, 132 analogy, 12; by associated objects, 11; by
Robert S. Peabody Museum of Archaeology, 145, 150 casts, 9-10; by experimental archaeology, 12;
Rochester Junction (New York): location, 4f by images, 11-12; by impressions, 9-10; by
mineralization, 9; by pseudomorphs, 9; by
Rockhold (Ohio): copper artifacts, 47; fabrics, 73, 78t;
skeuomorphs, 11; by stains, 10; by tools for
location, 48f, 70f; materials on breastplates,
working organic materials, 11
64t, 65, 78t; yarn anomalies, 81; yarn diame-
ters, 79t Seeds: on Hopewellian copper artifacts, 59
Roundtop (New York): attributes of cordage and fab- Seip (Ohio): ceremonial items, construction of, 66;
ric impressed on Owasco vessels from, 133t; copper artifacts, 47, 51, 53f, 54f, 55f, 57f, 58f,
location, 132f, 132, 134; site type,132 75f; earthwork construction, 70; fabrics, 46,
51, 53f, 54f, 55f, 57f, 58f, 60, 71, 72t, 75, 75f,
Rush: as material in twined bag, 200
76, 78, 78t; feather-decorated fabric, 53f;
Russ (New York): exhibit of artifacts from, 2 feathers, 55f, 57f, 58f; fiber types in fabrics
Russell Cave, (Alabama): cultural period of perish- from, 72; leaf segments, 60; location, 48f, 70f;
ables, 22t, 40; location, 32f; plaiting, alleged, materials on breastplates, 63-67, 75, 76, 78,
40; twining, 22t, 24, 40 81; materials on celts, 75; matting, 46;
Russell City (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 107; cordage mounds, 70, 71; pearl beads, 57f, 60, 71; pig-
twist on ceramics from, 105, 107; hunting ment, 60; shell beads, 60; yarn diameters,
focus at, 108; location, 88f 79t; yarn twist variation, 81, 83
Salts Cave (Kentucky): cordage, 22t, 26; cultural peri- Selvage: in specimen from Hiscock site, 34, 36f, 38
od of perishables, 22t; plaiting, 22t, 26; san- Seneca Road (Massachusetts): analytical methods for
dals, 26; twining, 22t, 26 textiles, 186-187; applique pieces, 181, 191,
Sandals: from Arnold Research Cave site, 24; from 191f, 194; burial pillows, 194, 195; burials,
Index 237
186; clothing construction at, 181, 182, 187, bon added to seventeenth-century twined
191; dates, 181, 194; fabrics, 181, 182, 187- bag, 202; textiles from Burr’s Hill site, 175,
188, 188f, 189f, 190f, 191f, 191, 192; location, 182
170f; site description, 186; yarns, 187 Silverheels (New York): ceramics, 99
Seneca. See Adams (New York), Boughton Hill (New Simms, Steven R., 100
York), Cameron (New York), Dann (New Simon, Brona, 186
York), Marsh (New York), Rochester
Sinew: in wampum bands, 172, 173f
Junction (New York), Tram (New York)
Sixteenth century: Adams site, 6; bags, twined, 209-
Seventeenth century: bags, twined, 8, 197-210; band,
210; hafted knife, 6; New Brunswick sites, 6;
interlaced, 8; baskets, 8; Boughton Hill site,
Nova Scotia sites, 6; Sandy Point site, 143-
7, 8; Burr’s Hill site, 175; Cameron site, 7;
164; trade goods, 162; Walker’s Pond site,
clothing construction, 182; Cross Street Back
143-150, 155-164
Lot Privy site, 175, 182; Dann site, 7; dyes,
171-172; fabrics, 8, 170-171, 175-176, 182; fig- Skeuomorphs, 11
urine, 8; foreshafts, arrow, 6; Long Pond site, Smith (New York): ceramics, 100, 108; dates, 100;
172-175, 182; Marsh site, 5, 8; mats, 8; New location, 88f
Brunswick sites, 6; Nova Scotia sites, 6; RI Smith, John: on cordage production, 91
1000 site, 8, 169-172, 182; Rochester Junction Snares: from Sheep Rock Shelter, 5
site, 7; shoes, 176, 179f, 180f; Susquehannock Snow, Dean R., 130
sites, 6, 7; Tram site, 7; wooden effigy face, 5
Song, Cheunsoon A., 72, 74
Shaft, wooden: presence deduced from attached arti-
Souriquois people, 146. See also Micmac people
facts, 11
Speedy, D. Scott, 91
Sheath, knife, twined: from Pictou site, 7
Spinning: methods, characteristics of, 81
Sheep Rock Shelter (Pennsylvania): dating, 5; loca-
tion, 4f; preservation of artifacts at, 4-5, 12; Spoons, wooden: from New York State Museum, 5
replication of fabrics from, 12 Squaw Rockshelter (Ohio): cordage, 25, 25f; cultural
Shell beads: on Hopewellian copper artifacts, 50t, period of perishables, 22t; knotted construc-
51t, 60, 62; as indicator of long-distance tions, 22t, 24-25, 25f; location, 20f
social interaction, 163; from Long Pond site, Squirrel Hill (Pennsylvania): cordage impression
172, 173f; as mortuary goods, 162; from samples, from, 93; cordage twist data, 107;
Sandy Point site burials, 147, 150-151, 161; location, 88f
from Walker’s Pond site burials, 148, 156, St. Lawrence Iroquoian: twined pouches, 205, 208t
158-160, 159f, 161 Stains: of fabrics on stone, 10
Shenango Dam No. 1 (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 98; Stewart complex: chronology, 89f; cordage twist on
location, 88f ceramics from, 105
Shenks Ferry Incised ceramics, 105 Stile, T. E., 27
Shetrone, Henry, 72 Stitches: in coiling, 21
Shirt fabric: from Fort William Henry, 8 Stocking fragment: from Seneca Road site, 189f
Shirtwaist, silk: from Albany Almshouse Cemetery Strachey, William: on cordage production, 91
site, 8 Street (New York): attributes of cordage and fabric
Shoes: from 27/29 Endicott Street Privy site, 181-182; impressed on Point Peninsula vessels from,
from Albany Almshouse Cemetery site, 8; 133t; cord-marked sherds from, 138f; loca-
from Cross Street Back Lot Privy site, 176, tion, 132f, 132, 134; “foreign” containers at,
179f, 180f, 182; from Mill Pond site, 176 137; site type, 131-132
Shroud, burial: attributes, of, 75; from Hopewell Sugar Run (Pennsylvania): ceramics, 100; location,
sites, 73; in New England burials, 192 88f; possible origin of population, 108
Sibley, Lucy, 74, 78, 81 Suspenders: from Albany Almshouse Cemetery site,
Silk: fabrics from Cross Street Back Lot Privy site, 8
175-176, 177f, 178f; fabric from Van Etten Susquehanna tradition: cordage, 160; dates, 160
site, 6; filaments, 177f; garments from Susquehannock. See Washington Boro
Albany Almshouse Cemetery site, 8-9; rib- (Pennsylvania)
238 Index
Swan, John (father and son), 199 Trot line: from Castle Creek site, 5
Swan, Joshua, 199 Tunacunnhe (Georgia): materials on breastplate
Swan, Susannah Eastman Wood (aka Susan Swan): from, 78
bag identified with, construction of, 197f, Twill weave fabric: as addition to seventeenth-century
198f, 200f, 200-203, 201f, 202f, 204f, 206, 209t, twined bag, 200, 201f, 202, 202f; from Cross
210; bag identified with, history of, 198-199, Street Back Lot Privy site, 176f; diagram of
210-212; bag identified with, materials of, fancy, 188f; from Long Pond site, 172; from RI
200, 202, 209t; bag identified with, pattern 1000 site, 170; from Sandy’s Point site, 185;
motifs, 203, 204f; bag identified with, size, from Seneca Road site, 181, 187
200; history, family, 211-213; history, person- Twining twist direction: as indicator of group affilia-
al, 198-199, 211-212 tion, 162; as indicator of social interaction,
Taffeta, 176 162-163
Tailcoat, nineteenth century, 195f Twining: antiquity of, 40; in bags from Northeast,
Tapestry, twined: from Hopewell site, 73 197f, 198f, 199-210, 200f, 201f, 202f, 204f; as
Tarleton, Kathryn, 172, 186 basketry structure, 21; combined with “plait-
ing” (interlacing), 151-153, 152f, 153f; from
Taylor (Pennsylvania), 87: cordage twist on ceramics
Cresap site, 28; “false embroidery,” 203f, 204-
from, 104, 109; location, 88f
205, 207t, 208t; full-turn, 203f, 205-206; from
Textiles: from 27/29 Endicott Street Privy site, 181; Graham Cave site, 39; “hexagonal,” 205;
analysis of, 186-187; carbonized, 79, 80t; from Hiscock site, 23-24, 34-40; from
from Cross Street Back Lot Privy site, 175- Hopewell site, 76, 78t, 80t; from
176, 176f, 177f, 178f, 179f, 182; on Hopewell Hopewellian sites, 52f, 53f, 54f, 71, 72, 73, 75f,
copper artifacts: 50t, 51-52, 52f, 53f, 54f, 55f, 76, 79, 80t 83f, 78; from Icehouse Bottom site,
56f, 57f, 58f, 61, 73, 75-83; from Long Pond 39; impressed on Owasco pottery, 133t, 138;
site, 172, 173f, 174f; from RI 1000 site, 170- impressed on Point Peninsula pottery, 133t,
172, 171f; from Seneca Road site, 181, 182, 137; from Modoc Rockshelter, 39; from
187-188, 188f, 189f, 190f, 191f, 191, 192; treat- Northern Thorn Mound site, 26-27, 27f; pat-
ment of, 172-174, 175, 181, 186, 187. See also tern motifs, 203, 204f, 205-206, 206f, 207t,
Cloth, Fabric, Plain weave fabric, Twill 208t, 209t; from RI 1000 site, 171; from
weave fabric Rockhold site, 76, 78t; from Russell Cave
Thongs, leather: from Augustine Mound, 6; from site, 40; from Salts Cave site, 26; from Sandy
Sheep Rock Shelter, 4 Point site, 150-155, 152f, 153f, 154f; from Seip
Thread, sewing, 176, 179f site, 72t, 76, 78, 78t; from Sheep Rock Shelter,
Ties, silk: from Albany Almshouse Cemetery site, 8 5; structural variations, 203f; two-strand, 83;
Timelines, Inc., 175, 181 warp, 75, 149; weft, 149; wrapped, 40, 203,
203f, 205-206, 208t
Tocamwap family: bag associated with, 205, 207t
Ulrich, Laurel Thatcher, 205
Tools, for working organic materials, 11
University of Connecticut: Public Archaeology
Trace element analysis: in identification of non-local
Survey Team, 172
pottery vessels, 137, 138; of Susquehanna
Valley sherds and clays, 134-135, 136 University of Massachusetts Boston, 185, 186; as
repository for objects from Cross Street and
Trade goods, European: as mortuary goods, 162; at
Endicott Street privy sites, 183
Sandy Point site, 146, 147; at Walker’s Pond
site, 145, 148 University of Rhode Island, 169; Historic Textile and
Costume Collection, 187; Textile
Trade: between Europeans and Natives, 146
Conservation Laboratory, 176; Textiles,
Tram (New York): bag, 7; location, 4f Fashion Merchandising and Design
Transitional Archaic period: cordage, 5; Millbury III Department, as repository for archeological
site, 5 textiles, 183
Treatment methods: for archaeological textiles, 172- Van Etten (New York): fabric, silk, 6
174, 175, 181, 186, 187 Verrazano, Giovanni: at Penobscot Bay, 145
Tremper (Ohio): location, 70f; mound, 71 W. P. A: excavations on glaciated Allegheny Plateau,
Trimming, European: from Portland Point site, 6 93
Index 239
Wabanaki people, 146 133t; ceramics, 135; fabric from, 5; location, 4f,
Walker’s Pond (Maine): analytical procedures for 132f, 132, 134; site type, 131-132
artifacts from, 148-150; archaeological con- White, Ellanor P., 73, 74, 79
text, 145, 147-148; burials, 145, 147-148, 159; Willey, Lorraine, 12
composite constructions, 150, 158-160, 159f; Willoughby, Charles C., 71, 72, 147, 149, 156, 209
cordage, 155-156; diet, 148; ethnohistoric
Wilson Shute (Pennsylvania): location, 88f; site type, 100
context, 145-146; garment, 158-160;
hide/leather, 156, 158-160; location, 143, Wimberley, Virginia, 49
144f, 145, 147; matting, 148; metal trade Winnebago bags: twining twist direction, 210
goods, 148; shell beads, 148, 159f; twist Wintergreen Gorge (Pennsylvania): dates, 100; location,
direction in specimens from, 162 88f; site type, 100
Wampanoag: burials at Seneca Road site, 176; ceme- Wobst, Martin: information exchange model of, 72
tery at Burr’s Hill site, 175; clothing styles, Wolford, Jack A., 92, 131, 209
192; tribe, 192 Wood: arrows, 4, 6; awls, 4; bow, 6; bowls, 5; charcoal,
Wampum: bands, 172, 173f, 182. See also Shell beads 59, 60, 61, 62, 63; figurine, 8; fire drills, 4; fish-
Wansak (Pennsylvania): cordage twist on ceramics hooks, 5; fish weirs, 4; hafts, knife, 6; handles,
from, 104; location, 88f sword, 6; handles, tool, 5-6; potter’s paddle,
Washington Boro (Pennsylvania): belt, buckskin, 8; cord-wrapped, 5; spoons, 5
location, 4f Wood, Susannah, 199
Watson Farm (Pennsylvania), 92 Wood, Thomas, 199
Watson Farm phase: chronology, 89f Woodland period: dates, 12; fish weir, 4. See also Early
Weft wrapping: from Hopewell sites, 71 Woodland, Late Woodland, Middle Woodland
Weir, fish: 4 Wool: air-drying versus freeze-drying of, 173-174; cloth
Welters, Linda, 170, 172, 181 from Fort William Henry, 8; cloth from Portland
Point site, 6; fabric from Sandy’s Point site, 185;
Wessels (New York): attributes of cordage and fabric
fabric from Santuit Pond site, 185; fibers,
impressed on Owasco vessels from, 133t;
degraded, 171f, 172, 177f; garments from Albany
location, 132f, 132, 134; site type, 132
Almshouse Cemetery site, 8-9; textiles from
West Athens Hill (New York): diorama depicting, 2, 27/29 Endicott Street Privy site, 181; textiles
4f; location, 4f from Burr’s Hill site, 182; textiles from Cross
West Ferry (Rhode Island): location, 4f Street Back Lot Privy site, 175, 176, 176f; tex-
Westfield Cord-Marked ceramics, 104; cordage twist tiles from Long Pond site, 172, 173f, 174f; tex-
on, 104 tiles from RI 1000 site, 170-172; textiles from
Westfield sub-period: chronology, 89f Seneca Road site, 181, 187, 188f, 189f, 190f,
Westfield-Mac (New York): ceramics, 98, 99; cordage 191f, 192, 194
twist on ceramics from, 104-105; location, 88f Wymer, DeeAnne, 73, 78
Wet sites, preservation at, 3-4 X-ray fluoresence analysis of sherds, 134-135
Weyanock (Powhatan tribe): preferred cordage twist Yarn: from Hopewell sites, attributes of, 72t, 76, 78, 79t,
direction, 92 81, 82, 83; from Long Pond site, 175f; mixed-
Whallon, Robert, 134 fiber, 177; scanning electron photomicrograph of,
175f. See Cordage
White (New York): attributes of cordage and fabric
impressed on Point Peninsula vessels from, Yerkes, Richard, 72, 74
240 Index