Abstract

The fundamental purpose of this research article is attempt to highlight,

Geography, Culture, Administration, Fixed and Figures, Historical evolution,
Army Expeditions and Constitutional Status of the District Buner.

Introduction:

Buner is the most beautiful northern district of Pakistan, lies between 34-9 and 34-43
N latitude and 72-10 and 72-47 E longitude, and about 190 kilometres away from Islamabad
and 140 kilometres from Peshawar.1 The valley is surrounding by lush green mountains,
which covered with pine trees. To the north Elam Range and Mora Hill separate it from Swat,
to the west the Sinawar Range separate from Malakand District, to the south Guru Mountains
from Mardan and Sawabi. Duma Range divide it from Shangla and to the east Indus River,
Haripur, Abbottabad and Mansehra are located. Buner valley is geographically and tribally
divide into two parts “Upper Buner” (Bar Buner) and “Lower Buner” (Koz Buner). The Baba
Jee Kandow (pass) is the natural border between Upper Buner and Lower Buner. The people
of Buner as known as Bunerwal. Buner is the Sanskrit language word, which means Jungle.
In the ancient time, it was a huge jungle having different kinds of trees and animals.The
Buner is the 11th biggest district of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa in the terms of area having 1865
sq.-kilometres and 15th in terms of population. According to the result of census 2017 total
population of the district is 8, 97,319. The male population is 4, 46,997 and female
population is 4, 50,317. From 1998 to 2017, Average annual growth rate is 3.05.

Islam is the Religion of Bunerwals, Sikhs and Hindus are in minority. There are many
Mosques and Mandaris, which play an important role in the society. Bunerwals are very hard
in matters of religion. There is also a Gordwara in Pir Baba bazar, where Sikhs worship freely
according to their religion.

According to the census of 1998, the literacy rate of the District was 22.62% in which the
male was 38% and female was 7.7%.2 There are 4 degree colleges for boys and one-degree
College for girls, higher secondary schools are 6, among them 4 for boys and 2 for girls. As
per record of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Elementary and Secondary Education Department, there
are 779 schools in the district, out of which 559 are for boys and 172 for girls.

1
Hadier Ali Akhund khel, Waadi-e-Chagharzai Buner,p. 27.
2
Ibid, p.28.
Buner climate is dry sub-tropical which having all the seasons. The summer season is start
from April to September and winter is from November to February, spring season is from
March to April and Rain falls both in summer and winter. It has receives approximately 165
centimetres rain annually. In winter, Snow falls on the top the mountain peaks. The highest
recorded temperature is 43 degrees centigrade in July and -3 degrees centigrade in January.
There are three main rivers in Buner Barandu River, Chamla River and Budal River, which
flows in the midst of the District and merged in Indus River. However, the wastages of
Marble Industries destroyed their beauty and reduced the number of fishes.

Administratively the District is divided into six Tehsils i.e; Gadezai, Daggar, Gagra,
Chagharzai, Chamla and Totalai tehsil. Further divided into 27 union councils, and union
councils further divided into Villages. In Executive, setup the district having one District
Coordination Officer (DCO), one Assistance Coordination Officer (ACO), one Human
Resources Development Officer (HRDO) and five Executive Districts Officers. Judicial setup
the district court having one District and Session Judge, two Additional District and Session
Judges, one Senior Civil Judge and four Civil Judges. According to the general election of
2013 the district having one National Assembly Seat NA 28 Buner, the current MNA is Sher
Akbar Khan from Jumat-e-Islami Pakistan. Moreover, three Provincial Assembly Seats are;
PK 77 Buner-I MPA Sardar Hussain Babak from Awami National Party, PK 78 Buner-II,
MPA Habibur Rehman from Jumat-e-Islami., PK 79 Buner-III MPA Moulana Mufti Fazal
Ghafoor from JUIF.3 Each union council has 27 Nazims and 27 Naib Nazims, and Generals
seats are 216, Special seats 108, Women seats 162 and Minority seats are 27. The district has
one District Headquarter Hospital of 200 beds, three Civil Hospitals of 60 beds, three Rural
Health Clinic (RHC) of 48 beds, 9 Basic Health Units, 8 Dispensaries,3 leprosy Centres and
multiple private centres.

The district have much more natural resources. The mountains are rich in various minerals,
especially marbles. There are about 674 marble factories and many factories are under
construction. By virtue of marbles, the districts alone can distribute a huge amount to the
sinking economy of the country. Some other minerals are iron, copper, gold, sulphur, silicon
and uranium. In agriculture, the district contains wheat crops, sugarcane, vegetables, fruits,
corn crops and tobacco. In fruit, Malta (orange) is very famous. Many of the people working
abroad like Malaysia, UK, America, Arab countries, Australia and Canada etc. which play a
vital role in the economy of the district.
3
Ibid, p.29.
The culture of the Bunerwals is the same as the culture of the Pashtuns; however, some facts
are unique. Currently, the technology has changed the life style of the people but many of
their customs are still alive. They support each other and participate in different ceremonies,
which is an important part of the Bunerwals. The District is the home of the descendant of the
Yousafzai Tribe of Pathan. Syeds, which are the direct descendant of Syed Ali Tarzami (R.A)
better known as Pir Baba. Syeds of Malka Village are the descendants of Syed Ahmad
Shaheed Baralvi and other groups are Akhund Khel the descendants of Akhud Derweza
Baba, Mandars, Ajars, Gujjars, and some Non-Muslims such as Sikhs and Hindus are also
living in Buner.

The traditional dress of Bunerwal man is “shelwar-kamees-waskat-pakool-chappal.” The

Turban (Dastaar) was wore but now it wears by Religious Scholars only. Women wear
“kamees-shelwar-loopata” and boqra or vail when they are in public. The little girls wear
“cholai” of various colours and verities. The Golden Jewellery is also common in Buner. The
life style of the common Bunerwals are very simple as compare to the other regions of
Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. The author of ‘Love to know 1911 Encyclopaedia’ states about
Bunerwal “Simple and austere in their habits, religious truthful in their ways, hospitable to all
who seek shelter amongst them, free from secret assassination, powerful and warlike tribe,
they are bright example of Pathan character at its best.”

The society having joint family system, they support each other in hurdles and happiness. The
Buner family is like a small kingdom, the Grandpa or Father is considering the king and
Grandma or Mother is considering as a queen of the family. Which are the decision-making
and taking bodies of the family. Mostly the family members gathered around one
Dastarkhuan for the dinner and discuss daily life events. Hujra or Bhetak is a guest room,
which is proper for the male guests outside the house. At the night, the Youngers sit together
in hujra or betak playing different kind of games like cream board, Ludo, Gutai (patta getai)
or telling stories and jokes to each other’s.

Mostly the Bunerwals eat simple food the spicy food is very rare to eat. Cuisines of the
district includes; meat dishes, fried fishes, various kinds of pulses, vegetables, kari, chapli
kabab, pikawri, barbeques, yogurts, butters, polao, greens (saag), paratety, corn bread, wheat
bread and rice. In drinks sugarcane juice, milk tea, green tea and lassi are used. The kari and
pikawri is the most famous dishes of area. The corn bread, saag, lassi, and salads are likeable
in lunch. The Halwa, Matyayi (sweets), Masaldar Gor, and Gulabjaman are famous sweet
dishes.

The common games, which played in Buner are; Football, Volleyball, Cricket and Mukha
(Archery; the oldest and traditional game of the district), Hockey and Badminton are also
played in some areas. Some local small games like; Tindak, Gopai, Bilawarai (matai), Gutai,
Margana, Skhey, Godai, Shotei, Patpatawaany and Mirgati also played, but these games are
going towards decline and replacing by modern games.

Historical Importance of the District:

Buner district had seen many civilizations, remained a part of an ancient Gandhara Region,
part of Uddiyana kingdom and so many historical army expeditions like invasion of
Alexander the great, Mughal Army expedition, Mujahideen movement and attacks of
Britishers, different Rules and rulers till 1969.

Part of Gandhara Region:

Gandhara was an ancient land associated many civilizations and empires, located in the
northern areas of Pakistan and eastern areas of Afghanistan. Peshawar mostly remained the
centre of Gandhara kingdom. The kingdom started from 6th century BC to the 11th century
AD, and the civilization was at peak from first century CE to 6th century CE. The northern
areas of Pakistan include Peshawar, Mardan, Sawabi, Swat, Dir, Charsada, Malakand,
Bajawar and Buner. Buner was remained an important part of Gandhara kingdom, there are
many archaeological sites in the district. Barh Ruins, Kaferon Dari Elum, Ghazi Kot, Saam
Dara, Dandi Kot, Nata Dari, Sorei Ghar, Kalasang Ruins, Mahaban, Mehdara, Adaibato
Ruins and the most famous is Rani Gat.4
Rani Gat, the largest and most beautiful archaeological site of Gandhara, located on the top of
the mountain of Nogram Village, tehsil Tottalai of the district Buner. The site is about 140
km away from Peshawar and 20 km from Sawabi.5 The word Rani Gat is a combination of
two languages Hindi and Pashto, which means “Queen’s Rock”. It located above 300 feet
from surroundings and 2,660 feet above sea level. The palace was belonging to the famous
Queen of that era. The site includes stupas, monasteries, shrines, drainage network, and many
unique style buildings, which clearly mention the skills and development of the civilization.

4
Rafi-us-Samad, The Grandeur of Gandhara, p.6- 9.
5
Haider Ali Akhund Khel, Buner Khudu Khel, p.198, 199.
The most attractive and wonderful is a huge rock, which stand to the north and a little away
from the biggest stupa, is the real recognition of the ruins, according to the locals the Rani
would sit there and enjoy the surrounding in evening. The site was remained the centre of
Buddhist Art and culture for centuries. The Greek writer Flavious Arrianus Xenophone
mention in his book “The Campaign of Alexander the Great” that a rock which sheltered and
defended the city of Arnos, after many difficulties the city captured by Macedonian Army
and then march toward Taxila through Indus River. The Japanese have done many efforts for
the protection, surrounding the site by barbed-wire fence, and constructed about 500
staircases to reach the site. The Rani Gat added to the UNESCO world Heritage Tentative list
on 30 January 2004 in the cultural category.
Part of Uddiyana civilization:
The Uddiyana was 600 BC civilization, which include the High Valleys of Swat, Bijawar,
Buner, Chitral and Pangkora. It was an important province of Persia in the reign of King
Devious I (522-486) for 200 years until Alexander the Great conquered the area in 327 or 326
BC. The centre of Uddiyana Kingdom was Swat. Buner was also an important part of the
Kingdom. There are many archaeological sites in the district, which belongs to Uddiyana
civilization. The ruins include residential colonies, caves, stupas, statues, and beautiful
architectures.6 In the reign of Ashola or Ashoka the district was rule by a ruler named
"Beenir" so according to some historians, that after him the area name becomes Buner.
Arrival of Alexander the Great:
The son of Philip, the student of Aristotle and the founder of Alexandria Empire, Alexander
the Great attacked on Buner in 327 BC. After the captured of Bazeria (Barikot Swat)
Alexander marched toward Buner through Karakar Pass moved toward koh-e-Arnas
(Mahaban; the fort on the top of mountain in lower Buner) through Barando (the river of
Buner) and Ambela Pass. The first attack on koh-e-Arnas failed, due to difficult ways to fort
and strong position of tribesmen compelled Alexander to move back. Then he invaded on
Peshawar and after stamp down the Peshawar, he again decided to terminate the koh-e-Arnas.
This time he prepared well, choose Embolina (Ambela) as a centre for his Army and attacked
on koh-e-Arnas with full strength, He lost many soldiers didn't enter to fort, but the help of
one rebel from the tribesmen, the Greek Army entered and captured the fort.
Then he marched toward chenglai through konglai and attacked on the Raja of Nograam,
bring him down and moved toward Taxila through Indus River.

6
Rafi-us-Samad, The Grandeur of Gandhara, p.162.
The Army Expedition of Mahmud of Ghazni:
The sultan Mahmud of Ghazni sent forces under the leadership of Pir Khushab, defeated Raja
Geer the last ruler of Hindu Shahi of Gandhara Region, in 11th century.7 The troops of
Mahmud of Ghazni demolished the Buddhist kingdom from the region. After Buddhism,
Islam flourished in the area.
Establishment of Yousafzai Tribe:
The Yousafzai tribe originated in Kandahar province of Afghanistan, later on moved toward
Kabul. The paternal uncle of first Mughal emperor Babur and the governor of Kabul Mirza
Ulugh Beg killed 700 men of Yousafzai tribe and expelled them from Kabul. Then they
moved toward northern areas of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. The Swati Pathans given sheltered to
them but after some time because of inner divergence between Swati pathans and Yousafzai
pathans the wars happened. Swati pathans were defeated and pushed them toward Hazara
Mountains. Yousafzai tribe settled permanently in Swat, Buner, Mardan, Sawabi, Dir,
Malakand, Tor Ghar and shangla, now are the districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.8
Arrival of great saint Pir Baba (R.A):
The great spiritual saint Hazarat Syed Ali Shah Tirmazi better known as Pir Baba was born in
1506 (908 Hijri) in Fergana Uzbekistan. He was the direct descended of Hazarat Muhammad
(S.A.W) through Hazarat Ali (R.A) and Hazarat Fatima (R.A). His father was Syed Qambar
Ali Shah a commander in Babur and Hamayun Army. Pir Baba was the nephew (Sister’s son)
of Babur and Brother In-law of Hamayun. His family moved to Khorasan stay in Tarmez and
later on came to India. Pir Baba became disciple of great saint Hazarat Salaar Roomi (R.A).
He came to Buner in 1540 by the advice of his teacher spread the light of Islam and
demolished anti-Islamic laws and costumes from the district and surroundings through his
preaching. He died in 1583 (991 Hijri) in Buner, his shrine was located in Pacha Kalley
Buner. The village name become Pir Baba after him. His favourite students Akhund Derweza
Baba and Jan Khan (dewana Baba) continued the preaching of Islam in the area.
Death of Birbal in Buner:
When the tribesmen attacked on Peshawar through Khyber Pass killed Governor of
Peshawar. Akbar become angry and send troops under the leadership of his foster brother
Zain Khan to castigate the tribesmen. He started from Attock marching toward Nowshehra
and then to northern areas, he camped in Chakdara and asked for more help from Delhi to

7
Fakhr-ul-Islam, Swat during 1849-1969, p.100.
8
Fakhr-ul-Islam, Swat State during 1849-1969, p.101.
attack on tribesmen.9 Akbar sent two more troops under the command of Birbal the most
famous among the “Nine Jewels” and Abdul Fateh the high literate but both are less expert in
wars, met with Zain Khan in Chakdara. The number of Mughul Army reached to 16,000.
They moved toward Buner through Karakar Pass, while moving in Karakar Pass the
tribesmen attack serval times and killed many Mughul soldiers but lost many fighters and
failed to push back the Mughul army. They entered in Buner, camped near Torwasak. Zain
Khan Advice that we would attack after three days so that way the deficiency of food
materials the tribesmen will dispersed, but Birbal and Abdul Fateh planned to move
forward.10 They reached to Malandari Pass; the pass was narrow for elephants and troops.
The tribesmen attacked on the Mughul army from the strong positions of the hills with
arrows, stones, the attack scattered the Mughul army, 8,000 soldiers had killed including
Birbal, Zain Khan and Abdul Fateh hardly saved half of his army and crossed the pass. They
could not have picked the body of Birbal. When the news of failure and death of Birbal
reached to Delhi, Akbar become angry, didn’t met with Zain khan and Abdul Fateh for two
days11 and didn’t touched food for three days.
Mujahideen Movement in Buner:
The founder of Mujahideen Movement Syed Ahmad Shaheed Barelvi (1786-1831) who was
the famous fighter against cruel rule of Sikhs, mostly in the region of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.
He defeated Sikhs many times and Mujahideen number raised than one lack. However, in the
battle of Shaidu in 1827, Syed Ahmad lost 6,000 Mujahideen because of some rebel pathan
leaders. In this bad situation, 200 Mujahideen including Syed Ahmad entered Buner through
Dara-e-Hind and camped in Chenglai village of lower Buner. After one month, Syed Ahmad
again started preaching of Jihad in all over Swat and Buner. The Yousafzai tribe, Syeds and
other tribes of the district fully supported Syed Ahmad and again Mujahideen raised with
great number, won many battles against Sikhs.12 Panjtaar village of lower Buner was
remained the centre of Mujahideen for four years. He martyred in the battle of Balakot in
1831.13
Syed Ahmad Shaheed Barelvi (R. A) Demolished many anti-Islamic laws and customs
through preaching and Jihad and restored original Islamic laws and knowledge in the district.
Rule of Syed Akbar Shah of Sathana:

9
Olaf Caroe, The Pathan, p.215.
10
Ibid, p.216.
11
Ibid, p.217, 218.
12
Hadier Ali Akhund Khel, Bnuer Khudu Khel, p.76, 77.
13
Ibid, p.94.
Syed Akbar Shah of Sathana was born in 1793. His father named was Shah Gul and his
grandfather Syed Zamaan Shah was migrated from Takhta Band Village of Buner to India
and later on settled in Sathana a village on the west bank of Indus River. He was the
descended of great saint Pir Baba (R.A) and one of the most resistance leader against Sikhs
and Britishers and also the leading member of Mujahideen Movement, due to his abilities
Syed Ahmad Shaheed always gave priority to his advices.
The spiritual leader and crownless king Abdul Ghaffor Akhund Sahib accumulated all tribes
Jirga, after consultations Akhund Sahib nominated Syed Akbar Shah as the king and all
tribe’s representatives agreed, thus Syed Akbar Shah become a king in 1850 of Swat and
Buner. The Shariah law imposed in Swat, Buner and its environs. Akhund Sahib also gave
him the title of Sheikh-ul-Islam.14 The era of this great man was very peaceful, people living
their lives freely according to Islamic laws. He died in 11th May 1857 on the same day an
independence war started against British. British historians said that the death of Syed Akbar
Shah was a good presage for our government.
Ambela War 1863:
In 1863, a big war fought by Mujahideen and Yousafzai tribesmen against Britishers. The
purpose of this war was to bring down Mujahideen and Yousafzai tribes because they felt risk
from valiant Mujahideen and brave tribesmen. After capture of Sathana they intend to
captured Malka the strong shelter of Mujahideen after Sathana.
Under the command of Brigadier Neville, Bowles Chamberlain 6,000 British army marched
toward Malka Village of Buner. The tribesmen and Mujahideen took strong positions in the
hills of Ambela pass, when the army reached to pass, the tribesmen and Mujahideen attacked
and showed his braveness, the British army lost 238 soldiers and 670 badly injured including
Neville Chamberlain. He replaced by Major General John Grvock, who hold on war and
broke out the pass and obtained the submission of the tribesmen. In all campaigns of Ambela
the Britishers lost about 1000 soldiers and so many injured. After consultations, the Britishers
allowed to burn few houses of Malka, only to save his prestige. They could not have
established government in the district until 1947.
Era of Pakhtoo (Da Pakhtoo Wakht):
After the death of great leader Syed Akbar Shah of Sathana the people of Swat and Buner
failed to established a United State under one ruler, so the Era from 1857 to December 1914
was known as the Era of Pakhtoo in which every tribe had ruled by their own elder.

14
Fakhr-ul-Islam, Swat State during 1849-1969, p.104, 105.
Government of Syed Jabbar Shah:
Syed Jabbar Shah the nephew of Syed Akbar Shah of Sathana was born in Swat in 1870. He
also established an Islamic government in Swat and Buner in December 1914, but hardly
completed two years and in 1917, some people starting violence against him and dismissed
his government.15 His resting place was Pacha Kalley Buner.
Rule of Main Gul Abdul Wadud (Bacha Sahib):
The son of Miangul Abdul Khaliq and the descended of Akhund of Swat elected as a king of
Swat through big Jirga, in 1918. Buner remained independent until 1924 and then become a
part of Swat State. His government recognized by British in 1926 and gave him the title of
"Wali Swat". The Swat State became the princely state in the British rule.16 Badshah Sahib
acceded the government of Pakistan in 1947.17 In 1949, he made his son Miangul Abdul Haq
Jahan zeb as a king of Swat State.
Rule of Maingul Abdul Haq Jahanzeb (Wali Sahib):
Maingul Abdul Haq Jahanzib was born on 5 June 1908 at Saidu Sharif, Swat. He was the son
of Main Gul Abdul Wadood. Main Gul Abdul Wadood made his son Main Gul Abdul Haq
Jahanzeb as a king of Swat State in 1949. He was the last king of Swat State and consider as
a visionary king. He promoted education; build many educational institutes, roads and
hospitals in his 20 years’ reign.18 His state includes Swat, Buner and Shangla now the
districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. In 28 July 1969, the Swat State merged in Pakistan and
added to Malakand Division.19 Buner was remained as a sub-division of district Swat until
upgraded to District in 1991.

15
Professor Ahmad Fawad, Riyasat-e-Swat, p.16, 17.
16
Fakhr-ul-Islam, Swat State during 1849-1969, p.107.
17
Ibid, p.108.
18
Ibid, p.109-111.
19
Ibid, p.112.
Conclusion:
The above discussion highlight historical events, wars, personalities, beauty, culture, fixed
and figures of the district. The district alone has a unique, distinctive and identifiable history.
Its history is like the sky, every aspect is shining like stars and its geostrategic position is the
real recognition of the area. The district also known as the land of Sufis and Spiritual Saints.
The people of the district are so simple, honest, Brave, austere in Religious matters, warriors,
hospitable and loving.
The district government organized the Spring Festival on 25, 26 and 27 March 2016 on the
Kalail Top. The mountain ranges of Kalail is the most beautiful and covered with lush push
green pincone trees. Another Fun festival is celebrated in 13, 14 and 15 October 2017 on the
top of Shaheeda Sar a village in Chagharzai Valley. The purpose of these festivals is only
promote peace and love within Buner, hopefully the next Annual festival will be held with a
lot of joy and happiness on the top of Sarmalang Baba and will be attracts tourist from all
over the country. May Allah Almighty bring peace, prosperity and happiness in our beloved
country Pakistan and especially in our wondrous district Buner.
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