The customer magazine of Rieter Spun Yarn Systems

Vol. 22 / No . 56 . November 2010 / EN

link 3 /2010

04 TECHNOLOGY At the customer’s service – Rieter technologists 08 TECHNOLOGY Through thick and
thin with Rieter’s VARIOspin 14 OUR CUSTOMERS Santana Textiles – a leading South American denim
manufacturer 21 PRODUCT NEWS New RSB-D 45 drawframe for enhanced quality and flexibility
 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010
CONTENTS
Cover:
Discussion in the Winterthur textile
laboratory: left to right, Oswald
Baldischwieler and Cordula Becker.
Publisher:
Rieter Spun Yarn Systems
Editor-in-chief: 
Nadia Qaud
Copyright:
© 2010 Rieter Machine Works Ltd.,
Klosterstrasse 20, CH-8406 Winterthur,
www.rieter.com, rieter-link@rieter.com
Reprints permitted, subject to prior ap-
proval; specimen copies requested.
Design and production:
Marketing Rieter CZ s.r.o., P. Bielik
03 EDITORIAL
TECHNOLOGY
04 At the customer’s service – Rieter technologists
Learn how Rieter acquires, evaluates and pools
technological know-how, and passes it on to its customers.
A glance behind the scenes of Rieter’s textile technology
activities.
08 Through thick and thin with Rieter’s VARIOspin
Used for yarns with individual characteristics – VARIOspin
fancy yarn systems. For ring-spun, compact and rotor-spun
yarns.
10 VARIOspin – for individual effects in ring-spun and
compact yarns
12 Rotor-spun yarns with styling effects for “fancy denim”
OUR CUSTOMERS
14 Santana Textiles – a leading South American denim
manufacturer
An article about Santana Textiles – one of Brazil’s most
successful denim manufacturers.
16 The Turkish textile industry on course for success
19 Linen – fiber with a difference
PRODUCT NEWS
21 New RSB-D 45 drawframe for more quality and flexibility
A frequency-controlled main drive, CLEANtube for clean
sliver coiling and rapid changes in sliver spacing – these
are the new features for flexible drawframe settings and
high sliver quality.
PARTS
23 Upgrade package for autoleveler drawframes
RIETER INSIDE
24 Interesting information about spinning preparation
EVENTS
25 Successful ITMA Asia + CITME 2010 in Shanghai
27 Rieter supports the “FACTOR+” campaign

Fig. 1 Only the most Dear LINK readers
adaptable survive
– not only in nature. Textile technology is exciting and will also remain
exciting. New fibers keep appearing on the market
or the world of fashion calls for yarns with specific
properties. This continually poses challenges for our
customers and our spinning machines.
Technology – the key to success
How can these new fibers be spun into yarn with
good wearing properties? How can specific yarn
properties be achieved? Are new machine elements
or components needed for this? Are there other ways
of producing yarn at lower cost? Which processes
can be eliminated, which processes modified?
Rieter technologists are deployed worldwide at the
customers’ service – optimizing, researching and de-
veloping. Additional technologists are engaged in
basic research to provide the sound foundation for
innovations and optimizations on Rieter machines.
New technology for linen
In this issue of LINK we report in detail on a pilot
project to spin linen on the R 40 rotor spinning ma-
chine. This new linen-processing technology has
been put into practice by our customer in Belarus,
Orsha Linen Mill.
LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 
EDITORIAL
Technology consulting worldwide
Rieter offers technology consulting services prior to
sale and after installation of the machinery. Trials are
conducted with customers’ materials to evaluate the
processing method that is the best in technological
terms or the most economical. 5 SpinCenters are in
operation for Rieter customers worldwide. The Spin-
Center in Winterthur covers all production stages
and can demonstrate any process to customers, from
fiber to yarn. 22 technologists are employed world-
wide for technological consulting in spinning mills.
Learn how Rieter gathers technological know-how
about spinning and makes it available to all its in-
house textile technologists – always with the goal of
being able to pass on this experience to our custom-
ers.
Technology for spinning fancy yarns
The market decides which effects are required in yarns.
Rieter offers all possibilities for this – in ring-spun and
rotor-spun yarns. Inform yourselves about fancy yarns in
this issue of LINK: slub yarns, multi-count yarns, multi-
twist yarns and multi-effect yarns.
Adaptability is called for
The observation of nature already made by Charles
Darwin (1809–1892) also applies in textile machin-
ery manufacture and in spinning mills: “It’s neither
the strongest nor the most intelligent species which
survives, but rather the most adaptable.” (Fig. 1)
We do all we can to stay adaptable, identify market
trends and embody them in new products.
New technologies and the high flexibility of Rieter
machines give our customers the ability to adapt
rapidly to changing market conditions. 10-200 
•
Peter Gnägi
CEO Division Textile
Winterthur
peter.gnaegi@rieter.com
 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010
TECHNOLOGY
At the customer’s service –   fiber materials? What changes can be made on ma-
Rieter technologists
Learn how Rieter acquires, evaluates and pools technological know-
how and passes it on to its customers. A glance behind the scenes of
Rieter’s textile technology activities.
Fig. 1 All results
of spinning trials,
research and develop-
ment are stored in the
technology database.
Development studies
& basic research
Spinning trials in the Spin-
Center prior to sale
Spinning trials in the Spin-
Center after sale
Spinning trials in the cus-
tomer’s mill
Downstream processing
studies
chines in future in order to achieve better yarn re-
sults? How can we optimize the process in order to
spin as economically as possible?
“Our entire department is at the customer’s service”,
stresses Harald Schwippl, Head of Rieter’s central
Technology Department. “In the case of infrequent
areas of application or new processes spinning tri-
als are performed for customers prior to sale of the
From fiber bale to light summer dress – when Rieter installation. We can then be sure how these yarns
develops a new spinning process all process stages should be processed. We pass on our technological
are studied by Rieter’s textile technologists, down know-how to customers to help them achieve suc-
to the smallest detail. Fiber strength, yarn tenacity, cess”.
yarn regularity, pilling tendency, dye receptivity and
washing behavior, to mention only a few of the tests Knowledge management in technology
performed. A company’s greatest asset is its know-how in its core
competencies. This knowledge used to be passed on
We pursue research – you benefit from generation to generation. Modern-day mobili-
Rieter employs a staff of more than 30 to conduct ty of employment has increased personnel fluctua-
studies and tests of the entire spinning system. tion. When an employee leaves, the company loses
A further 25 textile technologists and textile engi- the know-how that has been passed on. New em-
neers are employed in research and development. ployees have to be trained and need to acquire ex-
perience. The intellectual capital stored in the minds
And all these technologists ask themselves every of experienced employees is invaluable for a com-
day: what are the settings at which our spinning ma- pany’s success. This is especially true in the case of
chines operate ideally? How can processes in the technologists.
mill be improved? What are the working limits of
What options does a company have to prevent the
loss of this know-how? At Rieter several approaches
are adopted to ensure that knowledge is not mere-
now-how
sfer of k and ly stored in the minds of individuals, but becomes
Tran dat
a
the common property of the Technology Department.
Careful planning and conduct of trials, automatic
collection of laboratory data, conscientious analyses
and reports, meetings for exchanging experience and
Laboratory a central database system are some of the important
analyses:
components for collecting this wealth of experience.
• Fiber
Technology  
• Sliver database
• Yarn A database for all technologists
• Weave The central technology database, in which the test
• Knit
results and technological experience of the past 10
years are stored, serves as a collective memory. Key-
word-based retrieval options enable the collected
test results to be obtained quickly and easily.
Tra ta
n sfer o d da
f know-how an

Jürg Grest, a meticulous supervisor of the technol-
ogy database, ensures that the data are filed in such
a way that they can subsequently be retrieved us-
ing a wide variety of keywords. “The most frequent
analysis is based on the keyword ‘fiber material’. In
this way our technologists find out quickly and easily
whether a certain fiber quality has already been spun
previously. If a trial has been conducted, the settings
of all spinning machines for this specific fiber materi-
al are seen immediately. Know-how once acquired is
therefore available to all technologists at any time”.
Loading the database
A database is worthless in itself. The central technol-
ogy database at Rieter is loaded with data by more
than 70 employees in technology departments. The
data are pooled online from 5 locations in 4 coun-
tries. Most of the trials conducted for customers re-
sult in new findings and results which can be passed
on (Fig. 1).
Spinning trials for customers prior to sale
“We don’t conduct any spinning trials with standard
materials such as cotton, viscose or cotton/polyester.
Appropriate empirical values are already integrated
in the Sales Department’s configuration database. The
machines are equipped in accordance with these val-
Fig. 2 (left to right)
Marcel Bosshard and
ues”, explains Anton Stanek, who specifies all spin-
Gerhard Miersch during ning schedules of the SpinCenter for the trials.
a spinning trial for
customers at the Spin-
Center in Winterthur. After certain process stages, such as carding, combing
or drafting, the intermediate products are tested by
Rieter in the laboratory. Processing of the materials
continues when the ideal setting of the relevant ma-
chine has been established. The influence of specific
settings on the finished yarn is identified in this way.
This laborious basic research can seldom be pursued
in a working spinning mill. It would interfere too se-
verely with the normal production process. All Rieter
customers therefore benefit from the findings of these
basic trials. “20% of the customers are present at these
spinning trials in the SpinCenter in order to see the re-
sults for themselves. They often then take the finished
yarn with them and conduct comparative tests in their
own laboratory”, explains Gerhard Miersch, who has
headed the SpinCenter in Winterthur for the past 18
years. “When we perform trials from the bale, approx.
1 000 kg of fiber material is required. Only then can
LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 
TECHNOLOGY
we test and measure the numerous settings in the var-
ious process stages. This quantity of material enables
us to extend the trials through to the end product”.
The 8 employees in the SpinCenter in Winterthur have
a total of 234 years of experience. A long-standing,
well-coordinated team with invaluable know-how that
repeatedly enables ways and means to be found for
spinning unusual materials for customers. Knowledge
and facts can be stored in a database, but the creativ-
ity and expertise of the team are still always needed
to pursue new, problem-solving approaches on the ba-
sis of them.
New approaches – new experience
The learning curve during the trials is extremely steep
when new machines, new technologies or process
flows are being introduced. Numerous trials were con-
ducted in the SpinCenter with the C 60 card with in-
tegrated drawframe module in order to ascertain the
effect on yarn values of shortening the process. These
trials reveal the limits of maximum productivity or the
spin-out limits. This enables Rieter to provide accu-
rate data on which customers can rely.
When selling an integrated installation – from bale
opening to yarn – the sales engineers obtain the as-
surance of the technologists before confirming proc-
essability. The number and process sequence of the
machines employed are defined.
Basic research for new developments
The Process Analytics Department primarily stud-
ies the influence of new machines and processes on
yarn technology through to downstream processing.
The findings obtained are not only fed into the data-
base. This knowledge is discussed in team meetings
together with the development departments. In this
way developments are optimized or new ideas gen-
erated for spinning equipment and machine compo-
nents.
 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010
TECHNOLOGY
Peter Funk, textile engineer to the core, recounts ex-
perience from his daily work. “Everyday routine is
something unknown to us in Process Analytics. New
projects keep coming in for us to study. It’s good to
see the spheres of application of the machines ex-
panding – on the basis of findings from our studies.
We had an influence on the development of the core
yarn device for ring-spinning and ComforSpin® ma-
chines”.
Oswald Baldischwieler, also from the Process Ana-
lytics Department, enjoys research work: “We ran
Fig. 3 The difference in
the end product is tan- numerous trials for the new J 10 air-jet spinning ma-
gible. Harald Schwippl chine in order to widen the range of raw materials
in discussion with a
customer in the show-
and thus the machine’s sphere of applications. By
room in Winterthur. comparing the four spinning processes through to
the end product we were able to present the advan-
tages of the different processes clearly and compile
fundamental principles for choosing the ideal spin-
ning process on the basis of the end product”.
From fiber to end product
Not only spinning trials are conducted in the Proc-
ess Analytics Department. The yarns are processed
Fig. 4 Karin further: woven or knitted into fabrics, then dyed and
Steiger preparing finished. Only in this way can the technologists dis-
fabric samples for
the showroom in cover what advantages Rieter yarns have in subse-
Winterthur. quent stages of textile processing.
These findings are continuously published so that
Rieter customers can cite these advantages and thus
gain new yarn customers. News about spinning proc-
esses and Rieter yarns can be seen and heard again
and again in textile trade magazines, at trade shows,
symposia and conferences, and of course in the LINK
customer magazine.
Detailed technological comparisons from fiber
through to end product provide the basic data for all
these publications. The finished woven and knitted
fabrics produced in these trials are available as sam-
ples during sales discussions and at trade shows. Af-
ter all, people in the textile trade want to see, sense,
grasp and feel the difference.
Showtime for weaves and knits
More than 2 000 different fabric samples, the results
of trials conducted over the past 10 years, are availa-
ble in the showroom in Winterthur. The manufactur-
ing history of each and every fabric sample is stored,
enabling the spinning machines and settings used
for the yarn in question to be traced in detail. These
fabrics are prepared and meticulously archived as
samples in the showroom in Winterthur.
Customer service technologists – on duty worldwide
It can happen that lines already installed in custom-
ers’ mills fail to produce the required yarn values,
or too many ends down occur during spinning or
downstream processing. Peter Pridöhl, Head of Op-
erations for customer technologists, dispatches his
specialists from Winterthur all over the globe. More
than 15 additional technologists are also stationed
in the Chinese and Indian markets. 80% of all prob-
lems are resolved by technologists optimizing the
machines. Machine settings are modified, spinning
agents changed or spinning schedules revised.
For example, ends down frequency on the air-jet
spinning machine was reduced to 30% by adjust-
ment of the drafting passages and correct draft dis-
tribution on the drawframe.
 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 

TECHNOLOGY

Fig. 5 Monika Burren performs yarn tests in the textile

laboratory in Winterthur.

The test methods used in the textile laboratory include:

• F or fibers: cotton classification, fiber length, fiber count, fiber
strength, neps, trash, degree of maturity, stickiness, fiber crimp,
adhesion length.

• F or yarns: yarn count, irregularity, hairiness, trash, yarn reflex,

weave/knit simulation, tenacity/elongation, yarn twist, Staff test,
friction balance.

• F or fabrics: structure, mass per unit area, yarn count, visual

evaluation, hand evaluation, pilling, abrasion resistance.

If you are interested in laboratory tests, please contact

cordula.becker@rieter.com.

At the center of data collection – Rieter’s textile
laboratory
Numerous testing instruments are used under stand-
ardized testing conditions in Rieter’s fully air-con-
ditioned textile laboratory. The SpinCenter, the
Process Analytics Department and the technologists
are continuously bringing new trials for analysis and
testing. Only with the test results from the textile
laboratory can decisions be made on which machine
settings and technology components produce better
results.
Cordula Becker, an experienced textile engineer,
heads the laboratory in Winterthur. “All test data are
transmitted automatically to the central technology
database. The technologists can therefore still trace
the data years later”.
Mona Qaud has coordinated the 5 textile laboratories
at all Rieter’s facilities for the past 12 years. “Our tex-
tile laboratories offer numerous test methods world-
wide: from fiber to yarn studies and investigations of
woven and knitted fabrics. In the Winterthur labo-
ratory we test fibers, slivers, yarns and fabrics. Our
customers can also avail themselves of this service.
We conduct 10% of all tests – against payment – for
spinning mills, external customers and cotton trad-
ers who do not have the relevant testing instruments
in-house. We also test new testing instruments from
a wide range of manufacturers and thus support the
development of new testing methods”.
Treasure chest of experience
The technological expertise of the different depart-
ments is Rieter’s store of experience. The technology
database is the treasure chest in which this experi-
ence is collected. Each new trial conducted for a cus-
tomer, every experience with new material or with
newly developed machines is a further pearl to be
added to this treasury. Today’s treasure maps are
modern knowledge databases. Enter a keyword and
the information is found immediately. Rieter shares
these pearls with customers. Our knowledge arises
from cooperation with customers. Customers' ideas
and visions are often the starting point for the tri-
als conducted by Rieter. This enables Rieter to de-
velop and supply innovative products and services
that meet the market’s needs. 10-201 
•
Nadia Qaud
Project Manager Marketing
Winterthur
nadia.qaud@rieter.com
 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010

TECHNOLOGY

Through thick and thin –   specific spheres of application to imitate the defects
from earlier days.
with Rieter’s VARIOspin In the denim segment in particular, i.e. for jeans fab-
rics, most end products are manufactured from fancy
Used for yarns with individual characteristics – the VARIOspin fancy yarns. Fancy yarn for denim features effects which
yarn system. For ring-spun, compact and rotor-spun yarns. appear natural. These are effects which are very sim-
ilar to natural yarn defects.

The desired effects can be freely formed and repro-

duced with 100% accuracy using the VARIOspin
option on the ring-spinning, ComforSpin® or rotor-
spinning machine. The state-of-the-art, frequency-
controlled drive system with inverters, which can be
freely controlled via special programs, makes this
possible.

Terminology of VARIOspin fancy yarns

Base yarn
The base yarn is the “normal” yarn, to which the ef-
fects are applied. There is usually a defined length
of base yarn between each of the effects. In the
case of Rieter’s VARIOspin fancy yarn system the
base yarn is always by definition equivalent to a 0%
change in mass. An effect which is twice as thick as
the base yarn thus has a change in mass of 100%.

In order to understand the complex theory of fancy

The term “fancy yarns” refers to yarns contain- yarn manufacture it is helpful to look carefully at
ing deliberately induced yarn irregularities arising the yarn diagrams reproduced here. Delivery speed
from changes in yarn twist and/or yarn mass (thick is varied in order to change yarn twist. Increases or
or thin places). Applications for fancy yarns range decreases in mass are controlled by changes in fiber
from home textiles to upholstery fabrics and sophis- feed. In the case of ring spinning this is achieved by
ticated, stylish fabrics for the garment industry. Still adjusting the draft in the drafting system, in rotor
classed as a niche product only a few years ago, fan- spinning by changing the feed speed.
cy yarns are now an essential feature of modern fash-
ion. The four options for yarn designers
A basic distinction is made between four types of
When industrial yarn manufacturing began, spinning fancy yarns: slub yarn, multi-count yarn, multi-twist
machines produced these irregularities inadvertent- yarn and multi-effect yarn.
ly – as defects, so to speak. They gave the yarn an
individual, irregular character, resembling the ap-
pearance of a linen fabric. The modern generation of
spinning machines produce very uniform yarns. This
“smooth” yarn is simply unwanted for many areas of
application, since it is devoid of individual charac-
ter. Effects are therefore deliberately produced for
 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 

TECHNOLOGY

1. Slub yarn 3. Multi-twist yarn

T1 = T2 T1 = T2

a1 = a2 a1 = a2

Slub yarn is the best-known and most frequently used fancy
yarn. The rather short effects (3-10 cm) are the trademark
of slub yarns. The effect length can never be shorter than the
length of the staple fibers. Slub yarns are understood to be
fancy yarns featuring a change in mass at constant spindle
speed with varying twist factor a. This means that the twist
per meter in the yarn remains the same. This is achieved by
means of different drafts at constant spindle speed.
A multi-twist yarn is a fancy yarn which features no chang-
es in mass. Draft remains constant. Only the yarn twist and
thus twist factor a varies. As a rule multi-twist yarns are pro-
duced with rather long effects of 10-50 cm. More or fewer
twists change yarn volume and dyeing behavior. This pro-
duces interesting light/dark yarn effects in denim fabrics.

2. Multi-count yarn 4. Multi-effect yarn

T1 = T2 T1 = T2 = T3

a1 = a2 a1 = a2 = a3

A multi-count yarn is a fancy yarn consisting of lengths of dif-
ferent yarn counts. As a rule the effects in a multi-count yarn
tend to be long, between 10 and 50 cm. The yarn is spun
by means of changes in mass with correspondingly modified
spindle speed. This means that the twist in the yarn is modi-
fied in such a way that twist factor a remains constant with
different fiber mass.
Multi-effect yarn is a combination of everything: slub yarn,
multi-count yarn and multi-twist yarn. With VARIOspin the
variations can also be freely programmed in the case of
multi-effect yarn. A change in mass can be combined with a
twist factor a which is not predefined. This means that the
twist and change in mass in the yarn can be freely selected.
10-202 
•

Slub yarn Multi-count yarn Multi-twist yarn Multi-effect yarn

1 2 3 4
10 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010
TECHNOLOGY
VARIOspin – for individual   Slub yarn – change in mass without modifying twist
effects in ring-spun and compact
yarns
Integrated, creative and efficient. VARIOspin and VARIOspinData –  spindle speed remain constant.
the intelligent fancy yarn system by Rieter – from design to production.
How does VARIOspin work in ring spinning or com-
pact spinning? The secret is the separate actuation
of the drafting system drives, which is user-program-
mable.
FLEXIdraft drafting system drive
Feed bottom roller (A) and center bottom roller (B)
are driven by an inverter-controlled motor. These
two bottom rollers are also responsible for the break
draft. Delivery bottom roller (C) is driven separately
by another inverter-controlled motor (Fig. 1).
The independently driven bottom rollers of the draft-
ing system can thus change their rotation speed in
Fig. 1 FLEXIdraft
inverter-controlled
accordance with a preset program, i.e. a required
drafting system yarn effect.
drive for fancy yarn
formation.
A frequently occur before or after an effect – a poten-
B tial weak point in the yarn which leads to problems
C
Changes in mass are effected via control of the feed
bottom roller and center bottom roller. For an increase
in mass they are accelerated, thus reducing the total
draft. For a reduction in mass they are slowed down,
i.e. total draft is increased. Yarn delivery in m/min and
Multi-count yarn and multi-effect yarn – change in
mass with modification in twist
If spinning is performed with modified twist, all draft-
ing system bottom rollers change their peripheral
speed simultaneously – in coordination with each oth-
er. Yarn delivery in m/min is therefore also changed.
VARIOspinData
Behind every fancy yarn system there is a program
with which the effects can be defined, i.e. pro-
grammed. The program for Rieter ring-spinning and
ComforSpin® machines is VARIOspinData. VARIO­
spinData enables effect patterns and their repeats to
be programmed, visualized, optimized and managed
on the computer.
The effect patterns created can simply be transferred
to any Rieter ring-spinning or ComforSpin® machine
with a VARIOspin device via a USB stick or optionally
via the SPIDERweb data collection system.
Diversity of effects with VARIOspinData
VARIOspinData enables a multitude of electronical-
ly generated effects to be achieved, e.g. very short
effects, randomly generated effects and other varia-
tions and combinations of effects.
No thin places before or after the effect with  
VARIO­spin
With conventional fancy yarn systems thin places
in downstream processing. In the case of VARIOspin
great importance was attached to preventing thin
places before or after an effect. These thin places are
completely eliminated by means of an acceleration
algorithm specially developed by Rieter.
 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 11

TECHNOLOGY

Fig. 2 Programming effects with VARIOspinData Preventing moiré effects

1 Input of fancy yarn parameters
2 Visualization of the fancy yarn
The formation of a moiré structure in the fabric,
3 Visualization of the yarn surface caused by a regular effect pattern, can be prevented
completely by modifying the program if such a struc-
ture is unwanted.
1

Reproducibility
VARIOspin effect patterns are 100% reproducible. This
is also true for effect patterns which have been pro-
grammed with the random-check generator. Following
a package change the machine always restarts at the
first programmed step of the effect pattern.

VARIOspin versions – depending on customers’

needs
The VARIOspin option is offered in several versions,
depending on machine model. The difference be-
tween the versions of VARIOspin lies in the produc-
tivity of the relevant fancy yarn system. The basic
version of VARIOspin is already able to cover a wide
range of fancy yarns. It is limited in terms of effect
intensity, i.e. change in mass.

The most powerful version is technically capable

of producing a 400% increase in mass, i.e. a total
2 yarn mass of 500% (without twist modification).
Machines equipped with this system are designated
G 35 VARIO and K 45 VARIO.

All VARIOspin versions are delivered with user-

friendly VARIOspinData operator software. VARIO­
spin can also be combined with the Rieter Core Yarn
System. VARIOspin and VARIOspinData make a huge
3 repertoire of tools available for producing fancy
yarns, with which a very wide range of fancy yarns
can be covered. 10-203 
•

Ralf Maier
Technology Ring Spinning Machines
Winterthur
ralf.maier@rieter.com
12 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010
TECHNOLOGY
Rotor-spun yarns with fashion-
able effects for “fancy denim”
Jeans are always up-to-date. The effects change with the flow of fashion.
It is impossible to imagine the denim sector without fancy yarn creation
on the R 40 and R 923 rotor spinning machines.
Generally speaking, the same effects can be pro-
duced in rotor-spun yarns as in ring-spun or compact
yarns. The theoretical principles already explained
also apply to rotor-spun yarns. However, there is one
limitation on rotor-spun yarns: short effects are not
possible. Slub effects on rotor spinning machines are
at least 11.3 cm long.
Effect lengths in rotor-spun yarns
Rotor diameters of 36 mm and more are used as a rule
for spinning fancy yarns, since the effects are not vis-
ible enough when smaller rotors are used.
The shortest effect lengths always correspond at least
to a rotor circumference. This is explained by the yarn
formation theory of rotor spinning. Only when the ro-
tor groove is filled with the necessary yarn mass is the
yarn, i.e. the effect, drawn off. With a rotor diameter D
of 36 mm the circumference is U = p × D = 3.14 × 36
Fig 1. Effects in denim
with multi-twist rotor-
mm = 113 mm. This corresponds to the shortest pos-
spun yarns. sible effect length.
Suitable spinning elements
Fig 2. The K4K draw-off The shape and size of the rotor groove must be such
nozzle is suitable for that it can accommodate the fiber mass of the effect.
coarse fancy yarns up
to Ne 10. The 36 XTC-BD rotor has therefore proved its suitabil-
ity for producing coarse fancy yarns. In combination
with the K4K draw-off nozzle (Fig. 2) it is suitable for
yarns coarser than Ne 10; the KS or KS-NX nozzles can
be used for finer yarns.
Fancy yarns for denim
Denim production is a typical application for fancy
yarns. Large numbers of effects that are as thick as
possible are necessary in the yarn for “fancy denim”
effects to be clearly visible in the finished jeans fab-
ric.
Slub yarns are the most familiar and frequently spun
fancy yarns. Many Rieter customers work with in-
creases in mass of 300-400% in the slubs.
A suitable approach in order to achieve especially
distinct effects with the rotor spinning machine is to
build up effects in stages (cascade effect). The thick-
est lengths of yarn are accentuated more distinctly
in the finished fabric. In a suitable yarn structure the
visible peak of the slub then appears to be shorter
than the total length of the effect.
A multi-count yarn is very similar to slub yarn, but
due to the modified twist has somewhat higher yarn
tenacity in the thin yarn zones. In contrast to slub
yarn, the effects have a rather longer wavelength.
They can even extend over several meters.
Multi-twist yarns feature no change in mass, only
the twist is modified. This yarn is used in the denim
segment primarily to produce color effects. Lengths
of yarn with less twist take up more dye and ap-
pear darker. Lengths with higher twist are lighter in
color.
Any desired effects can be created on the R 40 ro-
tor spinning machine: slub yarns, multi-count yarns,
multi-twist yarns and combined multi-effect yarns.
Flexible use on the R 40
If required, the R 40 rotor spinning machine is pre-
pared with a VARIOspin fancy yarn interface. This
universal interface has been developed in coopera-
tion with specialist manufacturers (Amsler, Caipo,
Pinter). All three manufacturers offer especially pro-
ductive feed drives for large numbers of short ef-
fects.
The yarn count of the base yarn in fancy yarn spin-
ning is Ne 3 to Ne 40 (Nm 5 to Nm 68). The change
in mass of the effect is set in practice at -20% to
+400%. Twist modification varies between 50% and
150%.

Especially pronounced effects can be achieved by
reducing production speed to some extent, since a
large increase in mass requires more time. In princi-
ple, the draw-off speed for slub sections is the same
as for the base yarn. However, the number of possi-
ble effects per unit of time depends on the perform-
ance of the feed drive. In some cases the delivery
speed is reduced for short effects also featuring
short spacing.
How are effects produced in rotor spinning?
The motors used are inverter-controlled and can ro-
tate faster or slower depending on the control. Yarn
twist is influenced via the speed of delivery shaft
(1). Yarn mass is changed via the speed of feed shaft
(2) and more or fewer fibers are fed into the rotor
Fig. 3 R 40 rotor (Fig. 3).
spinning machine with
fancy yarn device – de-
livery shaft (1) and feed
rollers (2) are inverter-
controlled.
1
LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 13
TECHNOLOGY
Programming and simulating effects
User-friendly software is available for designing fan-
cy yarns. The programmed effects are then trans-
ferred to the fancy yarn device on the machine by
means of a memory stick. The three manufacturers
have different concepts for preventing moiré effects
in woven or knitted fabrics. The use of extensive pat-
tern repeats or an offset function with a random-
check generator is helpful in this case.
Simulations of yarn tables and fabrics on the compu-
ter are possible when programming, so that the final
fabric appearance with this slub yarn can already be
assessed during yarn design.
Intelligent robot control on the R 40
Piecings corresponding to the yarn diameter are also
produced in the case of fancy yarns by the R 40 au-
tomatic rotor spinning machine. The R 40 robot re-
ceives information from the fancy yarn device by radio
on which effect is being spun when the piecing proc-
ess occurs. Piecing is then performed with the appro-
priate fiber mass and take-off speed.
R 923 rotor spinning machine with integrated fancy
yarn device
Rieter offers an integrated slub yarn device for the
R 923 semi-automatic rotor spinning machine.
This permits changes in mass of up to +320%. Pro-
gramming is also performed on a separate computer
and data transfer via a memory stick. 10-204 
•
Michael Werner
Head Technology Rotor Spinning
Ingolstadt
michael.werner@rieter.com
14 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010
OUR CUSTOMERS
Santana Textiles – a leading
South American denim
manufacturer
Jeans – the world’s most widely worn garment. It’s impossible to imag-
ine life without them. A report on Santana Textiles – one of Brazil’s most
successful denim manufacturers.
The rapid rise of Santana Textiles started in 1995
with the commissioning of the first denim weav-
ing mill in northeastern Brazil. At that time some
700 000 running meters of fabric were produced
every month and sold to local garment manufactur-
ers.
In the meantime Santana Textiles has increased its
denim output more than ten-fold through continuous
investment and currently manufactures 7.5 million
running meters of fabric monthly in a total of 5 pro-
duction facilities in Brazil and Argentina. This can be
used to make up more than 70 million pairs of jeans
annually!
Fig. 1 “Fashion denim”
is in great demand Rotor-spun yarn and fashion, is that really possible?
worldwide. As everyone knows, fashion knows no boundaries,
and this also applies absolutely to the denim-ware
sector. Some years ago plain ring- and rotor-spun
yarns were processed almost exclusively. This is def-
initely now a thing of the past. The market has been
transformed and demands “fashion denim”. Fan-
Fig. 2 With up to 500 spinning positions, the R 40 is the most productive rotor spinning
machine; more than 800 machines are already in operation worldwide.
cy yarns are essential for this: slub, multi-count or
multi-twist effects now give end products their un-
mistakable characteristic attributes. Lifestyle prod-
uct “fashion denim” is given the ultimate look in the
finishing process, for example by special washing
processes or sandblast treatment. And new finish-
ing processes for denim are being added every year
(Fig. 1).
Santana Textiles already adapted to these trends at
an early stage and invested accordingly. That’s why
the R 40 rotor spinning machines it has installed
cannot be imagined without the fancy yarn devices.
The machine concept of the R 40 enables fancy yarn
devices from all leading manufacturers to be retrofit-
ted easily. The R 40 can, of course, also be delivered
ex works with the VARIOspin system.
Santana Textiles responds very quickly and flexibly
to the constantly changing trends on the market and
offers its customers innovative and stylish denim
products at competitive prices (Fig. 2).
Cost-cutting with new technology
Santana places its trust in shorter processes and
maximum productivity in order to achieve further re-
ductions in manufacturing costs in the spinning mill.
All C 60 cards are therefore equipped with the RSB
module. Santana exploits the potential of the 1.5 m-
wide, high-performance card to the full, producing
at up to 200 kg/hour. Meanwhile, the RSB autolev-
eling technology on the card’s drawframe module
ensures unsurpassed sliver quality from the first to
Fig. 3 C 60 card with RSB module for the direct process
in rotor spinning.
 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 15

OUR CUSTOMERS

Fig. 4 Presentation of Positive future outlook

the ComfoRo® license
to Santana Textiles.
Brazil emerged relatively unscathed from the turbu-
From left to right: lence of the global financial crisis. A large domestic
Christian Gramer, market with 190 million inhabitants, local cotton
Product Manager Rotor;
Raimundo Delfino, production of more than 1 million tonnes/year and
President of Santana stable energy supplies continue to make the country
Textiles; Alexander
Stampfer, Head Product
an attractive location for the textile industry.
Management Spinning
Preparation, Claudio The 2014 soccer World Cup due to be held in Brazil
Mazzetto, Sales
Mercosur. and the award of the 2016 summer Olympic Games
to Rio de Janeiro will give domestic textile demand
further momentum. Santana is already very well pre-
pared for this upswing and is looking forward to the
the last meter of sliver in the can. Only in this way future with confidence. 10-205 
•
can consistent yarn quality be ensured in the direct
process (Fig. 3). Costs are also saved in downstream
processing. The large R 40 cross-wound packages
up to 350 mm in diameter used in the weft result in
higher efficiency.
Raimundo Delfino, President of Santana Tex-
tiles, commented as follows on the occasion
The outstanding tenacity and elongation of ComfoRo®
of the presentation of the ComfoRo® license
yarns from the R 40 and the invisible piecings pro-
in Ingolstadt:
duced by AEROpiecing ensure superior running prop-
erties in weaving operations and top quality in the
“The advantages of a systems supplier already
end product.
became evident during the planning phase.
The spinning and economic efficiency calcula-
Pursuit of growth and twin-track strategy
tions provided by Rieter as well as the layouts
After Santana had systematically expanded its po-
assisted us ideally in configuring the installa-
sition in the denim segment over the preceding 15
tion. In the denim segment we are counting
years, the decision was taken in 2008 to venture into
fully on Rieter’s direct spinning process with
new market segments. In light of the steady growth
C 60 cards and R 40 rotor spinning machines.
in demand for high-grade rotor-spun yarns for knit-
Compact spinning is still a new technology
ting and weaving, the company therefore decided to
for us. Rieter is the market leader in this field
enter this keenly contested segment. A further 11
and has the best know-how. A clear reason for
R 40 rotor spinning machines with 500 spinning po-
us also to set out on this new path together
sitions and 3 robots each were brought into opera-
with Rieter. We are utilizing Rieter’s support
tion for this purpose in 2009. In this new installation
in marketing our yarns with the ComfoRo®
carded cotton is spun into high-quality ComfoRo®
and Com4® brands. We are very satisfied with
yarns in the Ne 24-30 count range.
Rieter’s service.”
The next expansion move was made in 2010 with the
commissioning of a complete compact spinning in-
stallation with 16 K 45 ComforSpin® machines with
1 632 spindles each to produce fine combed Com4® Alexander Stampfer
yarns. Santana Textiles’ position is even more sta- Head Product Management
ble as a result of this reorientation, and the company Spinning Preparation
Ingolstadt
can balance fluctuations in demand more effectively. alexander.stampfer@rieter.com
(Fig. 4)
16 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010

OUR CUSTOMERS

The Turkish textile industry on
course for success
The Turkish textile sector has a major impact on the European and North
American textile trade. The textile industry’s enormous growth in recent
years is reflected in impressive mill developments in southeastern Tur-
key. Kipas, MEM Textile and Elit Iplik can be cited as representatives of
this development trend.
The centers of the textile industry are largely con-
centrated in the cities of Istanbul and Denizli, and in
the cities of Adana, Gaziantep, Kahramanmaras and
Kayseri in the east (Fig. 1). A total of some 4 million
people are employed in the textile sector.
Eastern Anatolia, the heart of the textile industry
Southeastern Turkey, centered on the city of Adana,
has experienced rapid development (Fig. 2). A ma-
jor textile industry has emerged in the land of cotton
fields, specializing in the production of quality yarn
and high-grade fabrics and end products fully meet-
ing the standards required by prominent fashion
houses in Europe and the US. An irrigation project
in southeastern Anatolia featuring 22 dams and 19
hydroelectric projects is intended to double cotton
production. Although increasing amounts of other
fibers (such as viscose and polyester) are also being
processed and cotton-growing has declined in recent
years, cotton will remain a very important source of
employment for the region in the long term.

Com4® – the reason for investments by Kipas,  

Fig. 1 Kayseri, one of
the centers of the Turk- Turkey was ranked eighth in Europe in terms of eco-
ish textile industry.
nomic power in 1985. In recent years it has learned
Fig. 2 Turkey’s largest its lessons and brought its economy on course for
mosque was built in
Adana and opened in
success.
1998.
The textile and garment industry
The textile industry is Turkey’s largest industrial sec-
tor and at the same time accounts for the majority of
its exports. The fact that Turkey is the world’s sixth-
largest cotton producer reinforces the strong posi-
tion of the Turkish textile industry worldwide. The
country is ranked 10th in yarn exports worldwide and
4th in exports of clothing. Its largest markets include
Germany, the US, the UK, France, the Netherlands
and the Russian Federation.
MEM Textile and Elit Iplik
These three companies have installed more than
100 000 spindles for compact spinning technol-
ogy in the past three years alone. The Turkish tex-
tile industry, which has been expanding steadily
since the 1950s, is now Turkey’s main export sector.
The market has also become tougher for Turkey with
the emergence of growing competition from the Far
East. The companies have therefore focused success-
fully on quality rather than quantity for some years.
Their investments in the compact yarn segment un-
derscore this trend. Com4® yarns have much lower
hairiness and higher tenacity and elongation com-
pared with conventional ring-spun yarns. This re-
sults in improved running behavior in downstream
processing and ultimately in higher economic effi-
ciency. Com4® yarns fulfill the high requirements of
the fashion industry.
The following brief portraits of the Kipas, MEM Tex-
tile and Elit Iplik companies provide an interesting
insight into the Turkish spinning market.

Kipas – many years of experience and quality
Since starting business in the Province of Kahra-
manmaras in 1984, the company now operates
yarn manufacturing facilities with a surface area
of 200 000 m2. By pursuing a policy of continuous
modernization and expansion of production the com-
pany has become one of the largest yarn manufactur-
ers in Europe and the Near East. At Kipas 200 000
spinning positions produce ring-spun yarns in the
Ne 5-150 range. In earlier years mainly cotton yarns
were produced. Nowadays yarns are produced from
cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and acrylic fibers or
their blends to customers’ requirements. Its latest
investments in a new Rieter compact spinning instal-
lation have enabled Kipas to strengthen and expand
its position significantly among the world’s leading
textile companies.
MEM Textile – an impressive success story
The company’s production capacity amounted to
20 160 spindles in 1997, the year it was estab-
lished. This was expanded continuously to 145 000
spindles by 2007. The company stands out for its
Fig. 3 K 45 compact
spinning machine for
innovation and product diversity. The spinning mill
fully compacted yarns. has continued to expand its position in recent years
LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 17
OUR CUSTOMERS
with a capacity of 76 800 Com4® spindles. MEM
Textile is therefore one of the largest producers of
combed Com4® yarns. Its high-quality yarns have
made MEM Textile an exclusive yarn supplier to man-
ufacturers of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics
worldwide.
Elit Iplik – a young, aspiring company
The company was formed in 2007, and the spinning
mill, with a capacity of 32 640 spindles, came into
operation in October 2009. The K 45 ComforSpin®
machines produce 15 tonnes of Com4® yarn per day.
The compact yarns are intended for further process-
ing into woven and knitted fabrics. The high stand-
ards imposed by domestic and foreign customers are
met by pursuing a company policy of continuous im-
provement in quality, using the latest machine tech-
nologies.
Rieter – partner for innovations
The wide range of Rieter yarns meeting the high-
est standards ensures high competitiveness in a dy-
namic market. Fully developed technologies result in
highly efficient yarn production in the ring and ro-
tor spinning processes. Our customers can thus sys-
18 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010

OUR CUSTOMERS

Fig. 4 A view of tematically keep their production costs low. Ongoing to its innovative systems offering and the proverbial
spinning preparation
operations: C 60 cards
further and new developments in machinery and “Rieter quality”, Rieter has been able to benefit sig-
and RSB-D 40 draw- continuous research into new yarns and technolo- nificantly from this trend. Rieter wishes to express
frames in action. gies support Rieter customers in the keenly contest- its thanks for the confidence shown and for this suc-
ed yarn market. cessful partnership.

Turkey and its textile industry in particular will con-
tinue to gain in importance. Its ideal geograph-
Fig. 5 The spinning
ic location – between Europe and Asia – and rising
mills of Kipas, MEM manufacturing costs in the Asian markets will speed
Textile and Elit Iplik up this development. The latest statistics for 2010
are licensees of Rieter
yarns. strongly underline this, showing Turkey now ranked
17th among the world’s largest economies. With
growth of 11.7% in the first quarter of 2010, the
Turkish economy was in second place worldwide,
close behind China.
Detailed reference leaflets for Kipas, MEM Textile
and Elit Iplik (Fig. 5) can be downloaded from the
Internet at: http://www.rieter.com/en/textile/news-
center/download-center/
More information on Rieter yarns and licensees can
be found at: http://www.rieter.com/en/textile/short-
staple-yarn/rieteryarns. 10-206 
•

Fortunately, this upswing did not pass the textile in-

dustry by! On the contrary. Rieter has also therefore
experienced an unexpected and totally surprising Jürgen Seuberling
boom in the Com4® sector and also in ring spinning Sales Engineer Turkey
in recent months. This confirms the trend toward Winterthur
juergen.seuberling@rieter.com
production of higher-quality cotton yarns and blends
featuring all conceivable combinations of fibers. Due

Linen – fiber with a difference
Rieter is launching an economical method of processing flax as a new
trend. Modern flax technology and yarn processing on the R 40 rotor
spinning machine at the Orsha Linen Mill in Belarus.
Fig. 1 Harvesting The economical processing of flax using open-end
flax with large-scale
machinery. spinning has become reality through the coopera-
tion of four specialists.
The technological concept was developed by Dr. Meh­
di Azarschab at the Institute of Textile and Process
Engineering in Denkendorf and trials have already
Fig. 2 Jacquard fabric been conducted with the Füssen Hemp Mills on Rieter
produced by the Orsha R 1 and R 20 rotor spinning machines. Customer re-
Linen Mill.
quirements and market expertise were contributed
by the Tongor company, which represents Rieter in
Belarus. Fiber preparation and spinning technology
from crop to yarn was developed in close coopera-
tion between Temafa and Rieter. A modern process is
thus available to prepare a renewable raw material
for attractive end products. Since Rieter has coordi-
nated all activities for this flax processing installa-
tion, customers benefit from an integrated solution
from a single source.
LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 19
OUR CUSTOMERS
Implementation in Belarus
A suitable partner for the pilot project was found in
the Orsha Linen Mill in Belarus. Following exhaustive
spinning trials, we received an order at the begin-
ning of 2008 to supply a complete OE spinning in-
stallation with R 40 rotor spinning machines.
Most of the machines for breaking open the long flax
stems into short fibers (cottonizing) were supplied by
our partner Temafa in Bergisch Gladbach (Germany).
Orsha Linen Mill is undoubtedly an outstanding refe­
rence installation.
Orsha Linen Mill
The company was established in 1930 in order to
utilize the domestic flax crop increasingly to ob-
tain linen fibers. Belarus is one of the 5 large flax
growers worldwide, and the mill in Orsha is current-
ly Europe’s largest linen manufacturer with an out-
put of more than 3 million running meters of linen
fabric annually. Most of the approx. 1 000 different
products are fabrics for clothing or technical appli-
cations. A great future is forecast for linen as a do-
mestic fiber. Orsha Linen Mill identified this trend at
an early stage and has invested accordingly.
Extracting linen fibers
The process of extracting the fibers has no adverse
ecological effects, since virtually no chemicals are
used. These positive properties have resulted in a
steady increase in demand, especially in the ladies’
and men’s outerwear segment. However, one disad-
vantage to date has been the very low production
speeds of the classical spinning method for long fi­
bers on special ring spinning machines. Based on
experience gained in the Füssen Hemp Mills, Rieter
seized the opportunity to transfer modern, high-pro-
duction short-staple technology to linen spinning.
In order to process flax tow (retted, opened flax
stems) on a rotor spinning machine, short flax fibers
of guaranteed purity, strength, fineness and length
must be produced mechanically. The choice of raw
material quality assumes particular importance here.
Extensive separation into individual fibers is crucial
for spinnability using the short-staple process.
20 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010
OUR CUSTOMERS
Fig. 3 The R 40 rotor The Rieter-Temafa concept
spinning machine at
Orsha operates with In the cottonization process the flax tow is progres-
an efficiency of more sively relieved of shives (decortication of the stems)
than 97%. and dust, and refined in different opening and clean-
ing stages (Temafa machines and Rieter’s UNIclean
B 12, UNIflex B 60 and VISIONSHIELD) – without a
cutting process. The compressed bales then produced
are fed to the spinning preparation process. Reusable
waste from the cottonizing, blowroom and carding op-
erations is fed back into the process via a Rieter recy-
cling unit. Secondary waste passes into a briquetting
press.
Spinning preparation
The bales are then fed to the C 60 card via the UNI-
floc A 11 and a blowroom line comprising the UNImix
B 71 and the UNIflex B 60, including the necessary
finishing. A UNIblend A 81 precision blender can
also be inserted in the line for blended yarns. Based
on the yarn counts to be spun out, the C 60 card is
coupled to an RSB drawframe module in the direct
process.
Producing 100% flax yarn on rotor spinning  
machines
Flax tow has mainly been processed to date using
the dry spinning process on ring spinning machines.
Standard and specially structured yarns can now
be produced with high efficiency and very high pro-
ductivity on the R 40 rotor spinning machine from
cottonized yarns produced using Rieter-Temafa tech-
nology (Fig. 3).
Yarn counts and spheres of application
Depending on raw material quality, yarn counts of
200 tex (Nm 5) to 83 tex (Nm 12) can be spun from
pure flax. Yarns up to 36 tex (Nm 28) can be spun in
blends with other short fibers, such as cotton, vis-
cose, polyester, etc. – depending on the blending ra-
tio.
Rotor-spun linen yarns are characterized by the fol-
lowing properties compared with classical dry-spun
yarns produced from flax tow:
• higher elongation
• lower hairiness
• lower shive and trash content
• significantly better downstream processing
behavior (weaving efficiency of up to 95%)
• lower manufacturing costs
Fabrics and end products have the following advan-
tages:
• better abrasion resistance
• higher dye receptivity
• lower finishing costs
• pleasanter wearing behavior
• reduced tendency to crease
In summary
In times of steadily rising oil prices, increasing scar-
city of cotton and a continuously growing world pop-
ulation a highly productive and economical spinning
system with future potential for flax, a natural fiber,
is available on the market in the shape of the new
Rieter-Temafa flax technology. This technology will
undoubtedly make its mark in the marketplace in fu-
ture. •
10-207 
Arne Thielemann
Sales Manager Central and Eastern
Europe/Central Asia
Winterthur
arne.thielemann@rieter.com

New RSB-D 45 drawframe for
enhanced quality and flexibility
A frequency-controlled main drive, the unique CLEANtube device for
clean sliver coiling, even with soiled cotton, or rapid adjustment of sliv-
er spacing in the can during a change of material – new features for flex-
ible drawframe settings and high sliver quality.
Fig. 1 Further enhance- With almost 5 000 machines sold worldwide, Rieter’s
ment of quality and
flexibility with the most successful drawframe generation to date, the
new SB- and RSB-D 45 SB- and RSB-D 40, is impressive for its outstanding
drawframes in a friendly, sliver quality, user-friendliness and robust engineer-
bright design.
ing. The new SB- and RSB-D 45 machines (Fig. 1) are
based on this successful concept and enhance cus-
tomer benefits with further improvements.
Flexibility due to frequency-controlled main drive
Spinning mills have to respond to the delivery re-
quirements of their customers at ever shorter inter-
Fig. 2 Rapid setting
of delivery speed vals. To date the drive discs have had to be exchanged
on the machine when delivery speeds are modified for changes of
display by means of a
frequency-controlled material on the drawframe. On the RSB-D 45 and
main drive. SB-D 45 (without autoleveling) changes in delivery
LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 21
PRODUCT NEWS
speed are made comfortably via the frequency-con-
trolled main drive at the push of a button on the ma-
chine display (Fig. 2).
This new drive solution saves time when setting the
delivery speed as well as reducing storage expend-
iture for drive discs. The productivity of the draw-
frame can also be coordinated precisely with the
needs of the following process stages. The well-con-
ceived design of the converter cooling system en-
sures the reliability of the drive even at high ambient
temperatures.
Flexibility due to rapid optimization of sliver  
spacing in the can
Optimization of sliver coiling when changing the
fi‑ber material does not always receive the necessary
attention. The spacing of the slivers in the can is an
important parameter in addition to setting the coiler
speed and the eccentricity of the can relative to the
coiler. For example, sliver spacing “a” (Fig. 3) must
be adjusted on quality grounds when changing from
a combed, compact cotton sliver to a bulky polyes-
ter sliver.
On the SB-D 45 and RSB-D 45 the relevant change
gear is located ergonomically – close to the coiler
drive. This facilitates simple, rapid changes in can
rotation speed and thus sliver spacing in the can,
ensuring optimum use of can capacity and faultless
sliver draw-off in downstream processing. The modi-
fied transmission layout reduces the number of belts
22 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010

PRODUCT NEWS

Fig. 3 Rapid adjust- – a clear advantage over other manufacturers’ draw-

ment of sliver spacing
“a” when the sliver
frames.
volume is changed.
CLEANtube – sliver coiling without accumulations of
trash and short fibers
The following effect can occur on the drawframe
when cotton or its blends with manmade fibers are
being processed: while cans are being filled, parti-
cles of dirt and short cotton fibers accumulate in the
sliver tube of the coiler. The drawframe stops when
the can is filled to capacity, and this accumulation of
material, also known in the industry as the “mouse”,
comes to rest on the top layer of slivers. The larger
the trash or short fiber content of the cotton, the larg-
er the “mouse”.

Operating personnel are usually instructed to remove
the “mouse” from the can manually. In the process
the top layers of sliver can be displaced, thus ad-
versely affecting sliver quality. A half or whole layer
of slivers is often removed in the process, resulting
in additional sliver waste of up to 20 meters of sliver
per can, corresponding to some 0.6% sliver waste.
This “mouse” also occurs during machine stoppages
while the cans are being filled, e.g. in the event of a
sliver break in the roller infeed, and cannot be re-
moved manually.
Fig. 4 Sliver coil with
“mouse” – without
CLEANtube device.
If the “mouse” is left in or on the can, malfunctions
in the subsequent process are inevitable. At draft-
ing output of 1 100 m/min with a sliver weight of
Ne 0.10 and a can capacity of 15 kg, this results in
some 200 000 cans with corresponding potential for
defects per year and drawframe. Lower production
efficiency in the subsequent process due to more
ends down and clearer cuts, as well as lower yarn
quality, can be the consequence.
The new, optional CLEANtube device solves this
problem completely (Fig. 4). CLEANtube is an in-
telligent coiler control system which prevents trash
and short fibers from accumulating in the sliver tube.
CLEANtube saves up to 300 hours of personnel ef-
fort expended on manual removal of the “mouse”, as
well as up to approx. 0.6% of sliver waste, per year
and drawframe. CLEANtube prevents up to 200 000
defects per year and drawframe and thus maintains
high production efficiency in downstream processing
as well as yarn quality. This is an option that pays
off. 10-208 
•

Jürgen Müller
Head Product Management Drawframe
Ingolstadt
juergen.mueller@rieter.com

Upgrade package for autoleveler
drawframes
The “AC SERVOcombi” upgrade package for older generations of draw-
frames ensures very high production rates through precise autoleveling
and operating reliability.
The “AC SERVOcombi” upgrade package consists of a
state-of-the-art servo motor and a new control unit.
An ideal combination representing the latest state of
the art in AC servo motors.
The powerful “AC SERVOcombi” motor for auto­
leveling achieves higher efficiency through its sus-
tained, powerful torque throughout the entire speed
range. Positioning is by means of a rotary transducer,
which ensures a constant actual-value comparison.
The servo drive therefore follows the preset autolev-
eling profile precisely. Perfectly leveled drawframe
slivers are the result.
The “AC SERVOcombi” motor offers further advan-
tages:
Fig. 1, left: “AC • very quiet running properties
SERVOcombi” motor.
• high dynamics
Fig. 2, right: servo • very homogeneous control behavior
controller for the “AC
SERVOcombi” motor.
The “AC SERVOcombi” upgrade package is available for the following
autoleveler drawframes: RSB 851, RSB 951, RSB 1, RSB-D 30,
RSB-D 30c, RSB-D 35, RSB-D 35c.
LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 23
PARTS
The “AC SERVOcombi” motor is an AC servo motor.
Carbon brushes are eliminated, making this type of
servo motor completely maintenance-free.
A further element contributing to reduced mainte-
nance time is the electronic control of the servo gov-
ernor, which replaces the mechanical motor brake
used to date. The components of the “AC SERVOcom-
bi” motor are designed so that overheating cannot
occur in extreme environments.
The control unit for the “AC SERVOcombi” motor
The new servo controller supplied with the motor
and the “AC SERVOcombi” motor are ideally coordi-
nated. Signal processing is performed in the digital
servo controller in real time. The measuring signals
are therefore precisely coordinated with the set-
points and this results in very accurate autoleveling.
Quality “Made by Rieter”
The “AC SERVOcombi” motor is of the highest qual-
ity, since each and every servomotor impresses with
high manufacturing quality. The motors conform to
Rieter’s high quality standards. Compliance with
specifications is regularly verified so that our cus-
tomers can depend on Rieter’s proverbial quality.
The motor’s compact design and the pre-wired ser-
vo controller on a baseplate facilitate user-friendly
installation.
This well-conceived design ensures easy, rapid in-
stallation. Customers benefit from a short instal-
lation time and rapid return to production of the
drawframe after conversion. It is worthwhile adjust-
ing autoleveling quality to the current state of the art
on older drawframe models. 10-209 
•
Jörg Feigl
Project Manager Parts
Ingolstadt
joerg.feigl@rieter.com
24 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010
RIETER INSIDE
Interesting information
about spinning preparation
Following the successful launch of RIKIPEDIA, new contents have now
been added. Detailed information on spinning preparation is available
on the Internet as of now.
RIKIPEDIA – that’s the name of the online reference
work on short-staple spinning technology by Rieter.
Rieter is using RIKIPEDIA to present specialist tex-
tile know-how from the series of “The Rieter Manual
of Spinning” volumes on the Internet in the style fa-
miliar from Wikipedia.
Rieter already provided a brief overview of the new
reference work in the previous issue of LINK. In the
meantime new, interesting contents have been add-
ed.
Spinning preparation in 3 parts
The newly added chapter covers the technical and
technological aspects of yarn manufacture between
Fig. 1 RIKIPEDIA the card and the ring spinning machine. The quality
– view of the home-
page with spinning of intermediate and end products depends to a large
preparation. extent on these processes.
The contents of this chapter are very important and
are divided into 3 parts (Fig. 1):
• Combing (including preparation)
• Drawframe
• Roving frame
We will provide you regularly with tips and informa-
tion on using RIKIPEDIA:
Tip 1: fresh printouts
A print-optimized preview has been produced espe-
cially for fresh printouts of RIKIPEDIA contents. This
print preview can be called up in the left-hand col-
umn under “Tools” with the menu item “Print”. The
contents of RIKIPEDIA can then by printed out clean-
ly and without disturbing navigation elements.
Tip 2: keeping your web browser up-to-date
Besides security-related improvements, the lat-
est versions of the various web browsers also offer
improvements in the presentation of contents. It
is therefore advisable to update your web browser
regularly in order to be able to view the contents of
RIKIPEDIA as problem-free as possible. •
10-210 
www.rieter.com/rikipedia
Michel Gelin
Project Manager Marketing
Winterthur
michel.gelin@rieter.com
 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 25

EVENTS

Successful ITMA Asia +   of relevance for quality, is the same design as that on
CITME 2010 in Shanghai
After the six days of ITMA Asia + CITME 2010 the outcome of Rieter’s
review of its attendance at this trade show is positive. In addition to the
presentation of Rieter as a systems supplier, the new G 32 ring spinning
machine in particular was a highlight for the many interested customers
and other visitors.
the successful G 35.
High-ranking visitors
Rieter was especially pleased to welcome visits by
the official Chinese delegation headed by Du Yu-
Zhou, President of the CNTAC, by the board of direc-
tors of Rieter Holding and by the Swiss ambassador
in China, Blaise Godet.
Rieter expends large sums on research and develop-
ment. This enables innovative products to be man-
ufactured and adapted to markets’ specific needs.
This commitment applies to China and also to Swit-
zerland as a manufacturing location, whose values
Rieter represents globally. They are reflected in the
Swiss Textile Machinery Association’s “FACTOR+”
campaign, which Rieter actively supports. This cam-
paign communicates the benefits which customers
can expect of Swiss textile manufacturers in general
and of Rieter in particular: innovation, technology,
quality, longevity and a high standard of service fa-
cilities.

Orders from a vigorous market

The effort expended on a high level of customer and
market focus is reaping its rewards. New projects were
discussed and contracts concluded with customers
from all over the world at the show. The interest shown
in new products and also in integrated Rieter installa-
tions was considerable.

Fig. 1 The G 32 ring Rieter is satisfied with its attendance at the ITMA
spinning machine
Asia + CITME 2010 trade show. Visits by high-rank-
attracted considerable
interest. ing officials and politicians did credit to Rieter’s en-
deavors to expand its position in China further with
innovation, quality and technology. Rieter was also
pleased to accept orders from customers who ex-
pressed their appreciation in this way.
Fig. 2 Du Yu-Zhou,
President of the
China National Textile Rieter exhibited a new ring spinning machine. The
and Apparel Council G 32, which has been developed specifically for the
(CNTAC), formerly also
Vice-Minister in the
Asian markets, is simple and low-maintenance, and
Ministry of Textiles (far produces quality yarn. Its automatic doffer meets au-
left), in conversation tomation needs in China, where it is becoming in-
with Peter Gnägi, Head
of the Textile Systems creasingly difficult to find spinning mill personnel.
Division (far right). The doffer, in common with many other components
26 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010
EVENTS
Fig. 3 The Rieter The systems supplier reduces complexity
team at the ITMA
Asia + CITME 2010
Rieter’s ability to offer customers all-inclusive solu-
trade show expresses tions and thus reduce complexity is highly appreci-
its gratitude for the ated. In particular, the provision of technological
interest shown by
customers. expertise from the fiber to the finished garment and
comparisons between the different spinning proc-
esses, all of which Rieter supplies, assist customers
in their investment decision-making. In addition to
this, comprehensive documentary material on the
technology of spinning is available in book form or
free of charge on the Internet at www.rieter.com/
rikipedia for training up-and-coming generations of
textile specialists. All of this contributes to Rieter’s
being held in high regard.
Success through quality
Rieter’s quality products and services are held in
high regard by yarn manufacturers all over the globe.
Rieter’s attendance at ITMA Asia + CITME 2010 was
a great success. Customers from all corners of the
world who visited Rieter on its booth in Shanghai
contributed to this. Rieter wishes expressly to thank
them and the company’s trade show team. 10-211  •
Edda Walraf
Head Marketing
Winterthur
edda.walraf@rieter.com
 LINK 56 . 3 / 2010 27

CAMPAIGN

Rieter supports the “FACTOR+” sive service stand behind the names of the Swiss
textile machinery manufacturers.
campaign With their purchase decision, customers acquire not
only leading technological products and systems so-
“FACTOR+” is an image campaign launched by the Swiss textile machin- lutions, but also a reliable partnership, first-class
ery manufacturers’ industrial association to emphasize the added value service, training and consulting, based on compre-
(the “plus”) created for its customers. hensive knowledge and experience. This “plus” in
terms of performance boosts the potential benefits of
the products. This is expressed, for example, in high
productivity, low energy consumption, low space re-
STRENGTH PARTNERSHIP
ํ૰ ࢇፕअӵ
quirements or high material utilization.

Investments in products and solutions of the Swiss

textile machinery industry preserve value, enhance
QUALITY LASTING VALUE
REACHING THE HIGHEST PEAKS –
A TRUE JOINTVENTURE
competitiveness and thus offer a decisive “plus” in
terms of security, reliability and confidence.
‫ک‬ଣ‫ރۥ‬ĊĊ
ኈኟ‫ࢇڦ‬ፕअӵ

The added value plus for you: Switzerland‘s textile machinery industry is a strong and reliable partner.
Our companies devise customer-specific, realistic end-to-end solutions. They guarantee their
customers’success by providing high quality standards and reliable service.

ྺ౞༵ࠃሺኵ‫ޜ‬ခǖ෌๗‫ݢ‬ኯऐႁႜᄽ๟ഽᆶ૰൐ኵ‫ڥ‬႑ડ‫ࢇڦ‬ፕअӵLj༵ࠃൎࢇਜ਼ࢽႴ൱‫ڦ‬Ăਏᆶ੗ႜ
Ⴀ‫ڦ‬ዕ‫܋‬዁ዕ‫܋‬঴ਦ‫ݛ‬ӄLjೞ঺ߛዊଉ຤ጚࢅ੗੍‫ޜڦ‬ခLj๑ਜ਼ࢽ‫ࠀׯڦ‬࿘֡฼උă

www.factor-plus.ch

Rieter and “FACTOR+”

The added value that is actively being publicized by
CREATIVITY SUCCESS
the “FACTOR+” campaign has already been a basic
pillar of Rieter’s success for many years.

Rieter has developed spinning installations in Swit-

zerland since 1795. Many of the technologies and
BEIJING NATIONAL STADIUM DESIGNED
BY HERZOG & DE MEURON ARCHITECTS, SWITZERLAND

engineering solutions that are taken for granted

The added value plus for you: Switzerland‘s textile machinery industry is

nowadays were born in the creative minds of Rieter’s

an innovative, success-driven partner. By devising creative, costefficient
and sustainable end-to-end solutions, our companies are constantly
opening new markets for their customers and securing a key competitive
advantage for them.
www.factor-plus.ch

SUCCESS IS A MATTER OF CONSISTENCY

MATTERHORN 4.478 M, SWITZERLAND
mechanical engineers. One of Rieter’s core compe-
tencies is to develop innovative products, adapt
The added value plus for you: Switzerland’s textile machinery industry of- them continuously to customers’ needs, and to mar-
fers its customers realistic, value-preserving, end-to-end solutions based
on state-of-the-art technology. Our companies’ proverbial quality and ket them worldwide in conjunction with various serv-
reliability guarantee their customers’ lasting success.

www.factor-plus.ch
ices. This is backed up by a global development and
production network.

Customers’ confidence is based on the high quality of

The Swiss textile machinery manufacturers’ indus- Rieter’s products and services. 10-212 
•
trial association has launched a new, extensive ad-
vertising campaign under the heading of “FACTOR+”.
This is intended to enhance the image of member
companies by emphasizing the innovative techno-
logical achievements of the Swiss textile machinery
industry as unique customer benefits.

Added value for customers Michel Gelin

Products of the Swiss textile machinery indus- Project Manager Marketing
try create lasting value – the decisive “FACTOR+”. Winterthur
michel.gelin@rieter.com
Know-how, state-of-the-art technologies, systems in-
tegration, resolute customer focus and comprehen-
 Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Rieter India Private Ltd. Rieter Textile Systems (Shanghai) Ltd.
Klosterstrasse 20 Gat No. 768/2, Village Wing, 12/F, New Town Centre
CH-8406 Winterthur Shindewadi-Bhor Road, No. 83 Loushanguan Road
T +41 52 208 7171 Taluka Khandala, District Satara CN-Shanghai 200336
F +41 52 208 8320 IN-Maharashtra 412 801 T +86 21 6236 8013
sales.sys@rieter.com T +91 2169 304141 F +86 21 6236 8012
parts.sys@rieter.com F +91 2169 304226 www.rieterchina.com
www.rieter.com www.rieterindia.com

www.rieter.com

The new RSB-D 45 autoleveler drawframe for enhanced quality and flexibility.