1.

Broken, skipped or missing stitches

Broken, skipped or missing stitches occur during the sewing process and are usually
attributed to either a fault with the sewing machine or a worker error.

This can be a visual issue with the product, especially in garments which use different
stitching colors, like many jeans you can buy today. Stitching problems may also weaken
the structural integrity of the seam, causing premature wear of the product or even ripping
of the seam.

Potential reasons for broken, skipped or missing

stitches
Broken stitching is often caused by rough handling. If you see stitching is missing or has
been skipped, workers at your factory may be rushing to complete an order. The supplier
may also have been provided an outdated specification for sewing.

"If you see stitching is missing or has been skipped, workers at your factory
may be rushing. "

Stitch issues will generally be considered a minor defect, but can be major if the issue is
evident on a significant portion or highly visible area of the garment.

If you find broken, skipped or missing stitches during inspection of the garments you import,
voice your concerns with your supplier. The factory that produces the goods may be able to
mend these in a reasonable amount of time before shipping.

2. Untrimmed threads
A very common defect, untrimmed threads are a formality in garment production. Ideally,
untrimmed threads will be identified and removed during
the factory’s final production stage and
internal QC check.

Although untrimmed threads are generally considered a minor defect, they can become a
more serious issue if evident in a significant portion of the order.

The concern of many buyers is that untrimmed threads give the clothing a “cheap”
appearance. Untrimmed threads are a sign of sloppy workmanship.

Trimming the untrimmed

The good news is that untrimmed threads are one of the more easy-to-remedy garment
defects. The factory making your clothing may need to be more vigilant in looking for this
issue and trimming excess material prior to packing and shipping.

3. Dimensions out of tolerance

Dimensional issues can be related to faulty patterns being used, cutting issues, incorrect
stitching or inattention to tolerances by the workers. Incorrect dimensions can be particularly
problematic because:

1. The garment size could be affected, which means the item won’t fit the end-
consumer correctly and
2. The entire order quantity of that item is likely to be affected
Unlike the previous two points, garment dimensional problems typically cannot be reworked
and need to be remade from scratch.

"Garment dimensional problems typically cannot be reworked and need to

be remade from scratch."

Developing tolerances and points of measure

Issues related to dimensions can easily cause an entire order of product to fail product
inspection. The best way to prevent these is to make sure your supplier has the correct
tolerances and points of measure.

And if you have someone inspecting your product before shipping, make sure they know
both the agreed tolerances and measuring methods.

Although many independent inspection firms with garment experience have developed their
own tolerances for dimensions, you may have your own you’d like used for inspection.
Similarly, you may have your own measuring method, which your inspector may need to be
informed of prior to verifying dimensions.

4. Puckering
Puckering is an irregular seam surface. You’ll see this garment defect more commonly in
woven fabrics and knitted ones. Puckering is especially prominent on garments that are
tightly woven.

Causes and remedies for puckering

Puckering can be caused by the characteristics of the fabric but more commonly is related
to one of the following issues related to workmanship:

1. High tension on the thread during sewing, which can cause the fabric to bunch up
2. Using a dull needle, which may have difficulty puncturing the fabric, or
3. One ply of fabric is fed into the sewing machine at a different rate than other plies

Puckering can be considered a minor or major defect depending on the location found and
severity of the distortion. Clothing affected by puckering typically cannot be reworked to
remove it. Removing stitching will, at the very least, leave behind needle holes.

5. Open Seams
Open seams are both visually unappealing and weaken the integrity of the garment seams.
They are almost always considered a major defect,

regardless of size. Open seams are

generally not a defect present in a full order, but will be evident on isolated units due to poor
folding or an incorrect technique used by the worker.

Repairing an open seam tends to leave behind obvious signs of mending, such as
overlapping stitching. Talk with your supplier if this kind of garment defect is present in a
high number of pieces of your order and discuss ways to prevent or mitigate open seams.

6. Incorrect Stitches per Inch

Most garment specifications will specify the stitches per inch (SPI) required. This is because
stitching that is less dense can compromise:

1. Seam strength
2. Stitching appearance, and
3. Seam elasticity (on stretch fabrics)

But because a higher SPI will generally cost the manufacturer more in time and materials
needed, your factory may use a lower SPI than you specify.

Managing stitch count in garments

This garment defect can also be caused by incorrect settings of the machine. A low SPI
may also be due to workers intentionally lengthening the stitch in order to speed up the
sewing. This is especially common where workers are paid at a piece rate, where greater
focus may be placed on quantity, rather than quality.

A simple check can be performed to measure SPI with a ruler. If you carry out inspection at
the factory prior to shipping, make sure your inspector is measuring and reporting SPI. Then
if SPI is found to be out of tolerance, you can address this with your supplier.

Conclusion
Knowing these six common garment defects will help you be aware of issues that have
plagued the garment industry for decades. While quality issues like untrimmed threads may
seem commonplace and acceptable for lower-end retailers, open seams and dimension
issues could result in unsellable product, product returns and damage to your brand.
By inspecting your clothing items prior to shipping, you can be sure that any garment
defects or other issues have been addressed before the goods leave the factory.

Lastly, it’s important to recognize that some defective product is almost always expected in
a shipment, regardless of the product being mass produced. In fact, a product inspection
based on AQL, or Acceptable Quality Limits, takes this into account.

Being familiar with the AQL standard and advising your supplier of your tolerance for
different types of garment defects prior to ordering can save you a lot of time and money
trying to fix quality issues later.