ITALIA!

ITALIA!

Issue 156 November 2017 £4.80 NEW WEBSITE! www.italytravelandlife.com

TRAVEL CULTURE PROPERTY FOOD WINE PEOPLE

Issue 156 November 2017

UMBRIA Eat
Italia!
REVISITED
UMBRIA REVISITED • TUSCANY BY STEAM TRAIN • 48 HOURS IN FERRARA • AMALFI’S TIMELESS BEAUTY • CARLO GOLDONI

20 pages of
wine, advicefood,
an
inspiration d

EARTHQUAKE UPDATE
Why you should head to
Italy’s rebuilt Green Heart

All aboard
Ride into Tuscany on
a vintage steam train
48 hours in Ferrara
Discover Europe’s first modern city
www.italytravelandlife.com

WRITE A STORY, WIN A HOLIDAY!

Travel writing competition last call COMIC GENIUS

The timeless beauty of Amalfi

MEET THE MAN WHO
REDEFINED ITALIAN
THEATRE
11
11
2017 £4.80
November
Issue 156

THE UK’S AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY 9 771744 796078

9 771744 796078

IT156.Cover.sg11.indd 1 27/09/2017 14:54pm

 CAN I TELL YOU
A SECRET?

“We Italians have a special word for mopping the remaining delicious sauce
with bread directly from the pan called Scarpetta. I remember as a boy
the delicious taste of Cirio tomatoes and my momma would let me do Scarpetta.
My secret is I still use Cirio and I still do Scarpetta!”
160 years of passion and skill makes Cirio a beloved brand by Italians.
Taste, quality and safety guaranteed from a cooperative of 14,500 farmers,
traced from ‘seed to fork’.
Francesco Cirio, Autentico Italiano dal 1856.

CirioUK CirioUK @CirioUK cirio1856.com

 W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A !

Welcome! It’s been a busy month here, what

with sending our latest travel guide
Venice & Veneto to press (see more on
page 44), as well as the regular issue
of Italia!. When times like these come
around, things can get, well, a little
hectic. So a brief trip to Corvara in the
Dolomites was a welcome escape from
the deadlines. It’s a place of majestic
vistas: jagged granite peaks and wildflower-strewn valleys,
where the silence was so tangible you could feel it in the
wind. Familiar to many as a ski destination, it was such a
treat to see this living landscape in its late-summer glory.
For this issue, we’ve travelled to Umbria. After the
earthquakes last year, it’s a joy to see how this beautiful
region is getting back on its feet again. If there’s a message
we’d like to share with you, it’s “business as usual” in Italy’s
heartland, so do go. We also spend a peaceful weekend
exploring unspoilt Ferrara, we stay in the town of Amalfi
and slow travel across Tuscany by steam train. There’s also
a last call for our travel writing competition: it closes on 31
October, so apologies to overseas readers who receive their
copies later – we trust you’ve already sent your entries in!
Finally, bring a little of Italy into your kitchen with 20
pages of delicious Italian food and drink, with family dishes
from Sicily plus tasty snack inspiration with bruschetta
recipes and a round-up of ready-made antipasti spreads, as
well of six of our favourite Sicilian red wines.
I do hope you enjoy the issue!

ON THE
COVER
Corciano,
Umbria
Amanda Robinson Editor
This page: Image by Mark Nicholls
Cover: Image © iStock

SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!

*UK
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All aboard! Follow Mark NIcholls’ steam every 6 months and receive your FREE copy of Passione by Gennaro
train adventure across Tuscany on page 38 Contaldo* plus free delivery to your door. For details, see page 28.

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

Join us on JOE GARTMAN FLEUR KINSON MARK NICHOLLS
FACEBOOK, With his unerring This month, our Just a few generations
search for Italia! knack of finding the expert assesses the ago, it was every boy’s
magazine story behind the property prospects of dream to be a steam
stories, Joe travels Umbria, which like a engine driver when
to a quiet backwater phoenix rising from they grew up. Steam
Follow us
canal in Venice where the ashes has plenty trains are few and far
on TWITTER
he finds a museum of potential despite between these days,
at @ItaliaMag
dedicated to Carlo the earthquakes but Mark Nicholls
Goldoni, Italy’s greatest comic playwright. last year. With tough legislation in place got the experience when he took a steam
Find us on The first to write scripted plays for the to ensure the stability of new homes and tour from Rimini to Tuscany. Travelling at a
INSTAGRAM actors, he completely changed the shape of restorations, buyers can have confidence. slower pace allowed him a new perspective
at @italia_magazine Italian theatre. Find out more on page 45. Turn to page 80 for more. on familiar places, as you’ll see on page 38.

November 2017 ITALIA! 3

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 50

58 80
IN THISNovember
ISSUE 201 7
22 HOLIDAYS
22 BACK FROM THE BRINK
Fractured by last October’s earthquake, the
FOOD & DRINK
58 CRUMBS!
For a quick snack or a light lunch, try some
determined and resilient town of Norcia, in panini, bruschette and crostini – so easy, so
the heart of Umbria, is coming back stronger, typically Italian.
says Hannah Frances.
62 IN SEASON – NOVEMBER
30 48 HOURS IN FERRARA Chef Mario Matassa suggests four recipes
This was Europe’s first modern city, and using produce that is at its best right now.
plans laid here have been copied across the
68 BUY ITALIA!
continent. Sara Scarpa visits Ferrara.
Savoury jarred spreads to serve as toppings
38 STEAMING INTO TUSCANY for your antipasti.
Mark Nicholls rides a steam train across the
70 FAMILY RECIPES
Apennines from Rimini to Florence, then on
to Siena, Pisa and Pistoia.
Food writer Rachel Roddy shares the home
cooking of Sicily with this trio of deliciously 38
30 50 INTO THE BLUE
Amanda Robinson explores the Amalfi Coast
and enjoys a particular style of comfort and
authentic dishes.
75 DRINK ITALIA!
With its long, hot summers and fertile soils, 68
hospitality at elegant Hotel Santa Caterina.
Sicily has a reputation for excellent reds.

CULTURE PROPERTY
18 SPEAK ITALIA! GAZZETTA
80 HOMES IN UMBRIA
Tom Alberto Bull on the drought and heat
This dreamily serene region of fairytale
that affected Italy this summer.
landscapes and jewel-like hilltowns continues
45 FAST CULTURE to be adored by visitors, writes Fleur Kinson.
Joe Gartman on the immeasurable influence
90 PROPERTY SHOWCASE
Carlo Goldoni had on Italian theatre.
House-buying opportunities in Italy.

4 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.Contents.sg4.indd 4 28/09/2017 15:30pm

 IN THIS ISSUE

p30 FERRARA

p54 BRISIGHELLA

TUSCANY p38

p22 UMBRIA

AMALFI p50

p70 SICILY

MORE ITALIA! ON THE COVER

7 LETTERS 20 VIEWPOINT
More of your fascinating stories An art installation symbolises the threat
from and about Italy. to Venice from rising waters.
8 READERS’ PHOTO COMPETITION 28 SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!
Send us your snaps and win a Never miss an issue – and save
bottle of premium Villa Sandi money on the shop price.
prosecco. 54 PAST ITALIA! p22
10 ITALIAN NEWS An unusual clock tower p57
Catch up with the biggest overlooks the land
and best stories from Italy. surrounding Brisighella.
14 TOP PICKS 92 BE A TRAVEL WRITER!
Our choice of the best
p38
Last call to enter our writing
new Italian products. competition – and win a p30
16 EVENTS IN NOVEMBER prosecco weekend in Veneto!
What’s on for travellers to 94 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS p92 p45
Italy this month. Our experts are here to help.
19 IN PRINT 97 ITALIA! FLIGHT GUIDE
The life of Sophia Loren, 100 of the Your guide to the country’s airports.
world’s best sparkling wines, plus tasty 98 INSIDER’S ROME p50
mushroom recipes. A new look at the Eternal City.

November 2017 ITALIA! 5

IT156.Contents.sg4.indd 5 28/09/2017 15:30pm


Your home by the sea with a renowned cuisine under the expert direction of Granny Violante
Let yourself get carried away by the
freshness of the sea, the colours of a warm
and Mediterranean environment, the
fragrances of the flowers in its garden…
Bellaria Igea Marina, Emilia Romagna, Italy
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IT156.Flannelpanel.sg4.indd 6
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28/09/2017 10:35am
 LETTERS TO ITALIA!
Share your Italian experiences with us, and tell us what you would
like to see in the magazine, by sending your photographs and letters
to italia@anthem-publishing.com marked ‘Letters to Italia!’
Catherine wrote to
us in September,
detailing her plans
T
LET E
NOV
RO T
NTH
2017
F
HE O
M
GRAND TOUR OF TUSCANY
Wow, what a trip! Got back on Sunday morning.
I have photos and wrote a detailed log of each
day. As soon as I get a chance to translate this
into a ‘piece’, I’ll submit it.
Volterra was the star of the holiday. I was
expecting San Gimignano and the other famous
cities of the north to blow me away but Volterra
hit the spot. It is relatively unspoiled and the
balance between tourism and everyday life is
just about right.
The food was fabulous. I discovered the
simply enjoyment of biscotti with Vin Santo. It
was an interesting walk to the campsite after
the prosecco and the biscotti – thankfully the
walk was downhill. Venice and Florence were
way too busy but fun to visit by train and it was
good to see it all from a different perspective.
Camping in Verona showed us the city in a new
light and we loved it. We camped high above the
city – it was so stunning at night, and in the
early morning when the sun lit the city up.
We met some truly wonderful people, drank
lots of prosecco and enjoyed the pure magic
that anyone visiting this magic land enjoys.
Touring Tuscany was like driving through a film
set – just captivating.
Catherine Naismith, by email
We hope you have recovered, Catherine! And we
look forward to hearing more about your travels.
IT156.Letters.sg4.indd 7
PASSPORTS FOR PESTO
Your item on travelling with pesto in
this month’s Italia! (‘Passports for Pesto’,
News, September 2017) reminded me
of the time I was flying home from
Villafranca a few years ago. I was pulled
up after my hand luggage was x-rayed
and the security guy produced two jars
of homemade pesto that I had forgotten
to put in my suitcase. I explained that it
was un regalo from la mia amica and was
fatto in casa. He naturally realised that
I couldn’t possibly be deprived of this
delicacy and wrapped the jars up and put
them back in my bag.
Caroline Enfissi, by email
Lucky you! Though we should point out that the
ban on liquids in hand luggage is usually enforced,
and that the lifting of the pesto ban at Genoa has
restrictions. (See the September issue for details.)
Genoa airport has
recently lifted the ban on
pesto in hand luggage
SANTUARIO DI PANCOLE
As regular visitors to Italy we always
look out for unusual places, those often
overlooked by tourists, and thought this
one might be of interest to readers of
Italia! magazine.
During a recent visit to San
Gimignano we visited the nearby hamlet
of Pancole to see the Santuario di Pancole.
The lovely sanctuary is worth a visit. Built
NEW!
➤ Every issue
our Letter of
the Month wins
a 12-month
subscription
to Italia!
in 1670, it was destroyed by German
soldiers in 1944 and reconstructed in 1949.
As we were leaving we spotted a
gate at the far side of the church with a
sign marked presepe (nativity). Passing
through the gate and descending a flight
of steps we walked along a damp, dimly
lit passageway underneath the sanctuary
and then came upon the most beautiful
nativity display – as shown in the this
photograph I took of the scene.
This is a permanent display, open daily
and entry is free. Well worth a visit!
Peter Colligan, Waterlooville, Hampshire
Fascinating! We’ve never been and had no idea it was
even there, but your lovely photo is proof positive!
There is a website (santuariodipancole.org) and though
it’s not everything it could be, and has no mention
of the presepe, there are contact details – email:
santuariopancole@virgilio.it ☎ +39 0577 955083.
Peter’s photo of
the presepe
YOU TELL US!
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FACEBOOK Keep up with Italia! on Facebook.
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TWITTER Follow our Twitter feed @ItaliaMag
for the very latest developments at the
magazine and in Italy
November 2017 ITALIA! 7
27/09/2017 15:08pm
 Y O U R I TA L I A !

READERS’ PHOTO Send us your favourite Italian travel

COMPETITION!
photos, and each month the best will win
a bottle of Villa Sandi Il Fresco Prosecco
and exclusive bottle stopper!*

SEE MORE OF
YOUR PHOTOS ON
OUR WEBSITE THIS MONTH’S WINNER
italytravelandlife.com Michael Power, Belper, Derbyshire
“A restaurant owner collects bread from the
nearby bakery on an early morning in the
beautiful Città Alta, Bergamo.”

IT156.ReaderPics.sg4.indd 8 26/09/2017 17:16pm

 PR VIL
OS LA W
ECC S
O & AND IN
BO I IL
TTL FR
E S ESC
!
TO O
PP
ER
*

Anne Crawford
“I took this photo
of a beautiful
abandoned
palazzo from the
balcony of my
hotel room in
Ortygia in July
2008. Although
the building
has now been
restored I think
there is still a
great deal of
charm in the
original.”

Jim Kiernan, Carolina Beach, North Carolina, USA

*Prosecco and bottle stopper delivered to mainland UK addresses only. To find out more about Villa Sandi and Bellavita, see May issue
“Taken from the Grand Hotel in Bellagio on Lago
di Como, with Menaggio in the distance.”

Colin Fortnam
“Most years we motor down to some Italian friends who
live in Acqui Terme, in the Bormida valley close to
Alessandria. The last couple of times we have driven down
in my Borgward classic car from a show in Germany. Our
friends told us of the lovely 13th-century Church of Francis Kari Oevreseth, Breim, Norway Tony Maniscalchi, Glendale,
of Assisi in the town of Cassine, about 12 kilometres from “I love to go in the winter time, when California, USA
Acqui. We have visited a couple of times but not been there are few tourists and you get to “Next door to our hotel,
lucky enough to find it open. We will keep trying.” know the real Venice.” Palazzo Avino.”

HOW TO SEND YOUR PHOTOS Please email high-resolution (300dpi) jpegs of your
photos of Italy to italia@anthem-publishing.com or send prints to ‘Reader Photo
Competition’ at the address given on page 6. Please include a brief photo description,
plus your name, delivery address and a phone number (for our couriers). You must be
over 18 to enter. If you don’t wish to receive details of future offers and promotions
from Anthem Publishing, Villa Sandi or Bellavita, please state ‘NO INFO’ on your entry.

READER OFFER London-based Bellavita specialises in premium-quality Italian food and

wines, delivered from Italy right to your door. Italia! readers get a 10 per cent discount
off Villa Sandi wines and all other products online at www.bellavitashop.co.uk until
1 December 2017 by entering the code ‘italia10’ at the checkout.
Please note: Any photos you submit must be your own work and you must have the right
to send them for inclusion on this page. By sending your entry, you are confirming
that Italia!’s use of your photo(s) will not constitute infringement of any rights, and
confirming that you are over 18.

November 2017 ITALIA! 9

IT156.ReaderPics.sg4.indd 9 26/09/2017 17:17pm

 NEWS

THISNovember
MONTH 201 7
In Italian news this month, rebuilding
Norcia, Italy’s first wine, and the
dentist who doesn’t like prosecco…

THE REBUILDING OF NORCIA

A hotel in an Italian town that was destroyed by an earthquake in October 2016
has been named the world’s best. The Palazzo Seneca scooped the prestigious gong
at the Virtuoso Tourism Awards in Las Vegas in August – just ten months after
parts of Norcia, Umbria, were reduced to rubble by the 6.6-magnitude quake.
(Find out more on page 22.) Though the hotel itself didn’t suffer any major damage,
it was forced to close for repair work and only reopened in April – the first hotel
in Norcia’s old town to do so. Frequented by “footballers and other sporting and
Seneca

entertainment figures”, the Palazzo Seneca boasts a gorgeous 16th-century façade,

24 elegantly furnished rooms, a wellness centre with Turkish baths and hydro-
Image © Palazzo

massage, and a restaurant affording spectacular views over the Umbrian hills.
“This award recognises a beautiful part of Italy that has so much to offer and needs
tourists as never before,” said Virtuoso travel advisor Julia Kostina.

Find out more about Umbria

after the earthquakes, and

Image © Palazzo Seneca

this fascinating restoration story
in our feature on page 22
S...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...S
VILLAGE IMPOSES SELFIE BAN HAVE A PIZZA-FUL CHRISTMAS
At the time of writing, thousands of tourists were expected If you can’t make your mind up between British and
to descend on the medieval village of Guardia Sanframondi, Italian cuisine this coming festive season, Pizza
Campania, for one of Italy’s most unusual religious festivals. Express may have just the answer. As part of its
Images © iStock unless otherwise stated

But one thing they were strictly prohibited from doing
was taking selfies. The event, held every seven years, sees
penitents known as battenti, ‘beaters’, flagellate themselves
on the chest until blood starts pouring out. And officials
were adamant that people should enjoy the occasion
without phone-based distractions. “It’s better for people
to concentrate on the religious aspect and to experience a
wonderful day of spirituality, which is a rare thing these
days,” said the mayor, Floriano Panza.
Christmas menu, the restaurant chain has unveiled a
roast dinner pizza, complete with beef, horseradish and
roast potatoes! The special Romana will be served on a
passata base with red onion and fresh rosemary. Other
seasonal treats on the menu include chicken liver pâté
and roasted tomato soup for starters, and, if you still
have room after that hearty pizza, a caramel and pear
gelato for dessert. The menu will be available from the
21st of November – cheesy Christmas jumper optional.

10 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.News.sg6.indd 10 28/09/2017 10:37am

 La La Land star John Legend and his wife, model
Chrissy Teigen, enjoyed an Italian family getaway
MORE CELEBRITY COUPLES TAKING RETREATS IN ITALY
As regular readers of Italia! will by now know very well, Italy is a prime destination for celebrity
couples seeking a romantic break away from (or sometimes with) the glare of publicity. And at the
end of August, two famous pairs were seen enjoying La Bella Vita. Supermodel Eva Herzigova and her
Italian fiancé, businessman Gregorio Marsiaj, headed for the seaside resort of Varigotti in Liguria to
lap up some late-summer sunshine. The couple, who have three sons together and announced their
engagement in May, looked relaxed as they strolled the streets, eating ice cream and browsing the
shops. Meanwhile, another glamorous duo, La La Land star John Legend and his wife, model Chrissy
Teigen, enjoyed a family getaway with their baby daughter, Luna, and Chrissy’s mother, Vilailuck,
first in Lake Como and then Venice. And the couple made the most of having a babysitter with them,
heading out for a romantic evening at a Venetian opera.

THE FUTURE’S ORANGE!

Does that new shirt you bought smell of oranges? Well, there might be a good reason
for that. Former design student Adriana Santonocito has come up with a novel way
Image © imageSPACE/SIPA USA/PA Images

of re-using the rinds from the hundreds of thousands of oranges cultivated in her
native Sicily: she makes textiles from the fibres. After coming across a question in
her dissertation – “Is it possible to make a silk foulard from citrus by-products?” –
Adriana’s curiosity got the better of her. Upon discovering that the cellulose extracted
from orange rinds could be turned into yarn using chemical re-agents, she and her
university friend Enrica Arena founded their own unique textiles company, Orange
Fiber. They began selling to clothes makers and this year, renowned fashion brand
Salvatore Ferragamo used the rind-sourced material in its spring-summer collection.
Said Antonio Perdichizzi, an early investor in Orange Fiber: “Italy doesn’t invest much
in innovation, but brilliant ideas and skills win despite a lack of resources.”

ETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS
OLDEST WINE IN ITALY DISCOVERED RARE FERRARI MAKES A MINT
It would appear that Italians have been enjoying A vintage Ferrari found in a barn has sold for
wine for a lot longer than we thought. After a €1.8million at auction. The car, the only street-legal
storage jar was discovered at the Copper Age site of alloy-bodied Ferrari 365 GTB/4 in existence, was
Monte Kronio, near the Sicilian city of Agrigento, built in 1969 and then sold to the founder of Italian
residue found inside it was sent to the University of magazine Autosprint, Luciano Conte. After two
Florida for analysis. And researchers there found that more owners, its Italian registration was cancelled
it contained tartaric acid and sodium salt, both of in 1971 and it ended up in Japan. Its latest owner,
which occur in the wine-making process. From that, Tateo Ito, bought the car in 1979 but kept it in
they were able to determine that Italians have been his barn, and then apparently forgot he had it
quaffing the drink since the fourth millennium BC – until earlier this year. Though the car needed some
it had previously been accepted that wine making in attention, bidding was brisk when it went on sale
Italy began around 1300-1100BC. at Sotheby’s in September.

November 2017 ITALIA! 11

IT156.News.sg6.indd 11 28/09/2017 10:37am

 NEWS

DOUBLE BUBBLE TROUBLE

We all love a drop of prosecco – but according to a Newcastle dentist, the sparkling Italian wine
is bad for our teeth. Dr Richard Coates, of Riveredge Cosmetic Dentistry, claims that the drink
compares badly to one of its biggest rivals when it comes to enamel damage. “Prosecco is the
double whammy – the acidity causes erosion but, because it’s so sweet, it also contributes to
tooth decay,” he said. “It’s much worse than champagne because that isn’t so sweet.” It’s
not all bad news, however, as Dr Coates explained that you can take measures to reduce
the detrimental effects. “It may not look very cool but drinking prosecco through a straw
rather than from a glass can protect teeth,” he said. “At the same time, people should
wait a few hours before brushing their teeth if they’ve been drinking prosecco or
other fizzy drinks, to give the enamel time to harden up again.”

Dr Richard Coates claims, “Prosecco

COOKING GOOD
We all know that Italian food, with its
emphasis on fresh fruit and vegetables,
is good for you, but which ingredients in
particular are likely to keep the doctor
away? A new study in the Journal of
Cellular Physiology has pinpointed the
foods that will help combat cancer and
heart disease, and there are one or two
on the list that might surprise you. Did
you know, for example, that aubergines
are packed with phytonutrients that
help stop damage from free radicals?
Or that consuming just two figs a day
can greatly increase your fibre intake?
Even something as indulgent as ricotta will do you good,
with half a cup providing 14 grammes of protein and 25 per cent of
your daily calcium requirements. Completing the rundown are olive
oil, red wine, garlic, farro, fish, white beans, leafy greens and pasta.
Nutritious and delicious – what are you waiting for?
is the double whammy – the acidity
causes erosion but, because it’s so sweet,
it also contributes to tooth decay.”
MUSICAL ROBOT TAKES TO THE STAGE
A humanoid robot called YuMi has successfully conducted the Lucca
Philharmonic in a performance of three operatic works at the Teatro
Verdi in Pisa. It’s not the first time a robot has conducted an orchestra –
Honda’s ASIMO conducted the Detroit Symphony Orchestra’s rendition
of The Impossible Dream in 2008 – but the new, Swiss-built machine
demonstrated an unprecedented degree of movement in its performance at
the climax of the first International Festival of Robotics this September.
“YuMi has a very high
level of fluidity of gesture,
incredible softness and
expressive nuancing,” gushed
Andrea Colombini, the
orchestra’s director, and the
man who taught the robot
its craft.
Signor Colombini won’t
be retiring just yet, however.
“The robot uses its arm, but
the soul, the spirit, are always
those of man,” he was at
pains to add.

PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP P

PRIEST’S PEDAL POWER ALDI’S ITALIAN JOB
A priest has surprised sunbathers on a beach in Aldi has launched a new range of gourmet Italian food,
southern Italy by taking to the water in a pedalo at its usual discount prices. The supermarket chain,
bearing a statue of the Virgin Mary. Traditionally, Don which has around 10,000 stores in 18 countries, will
Mario Calogiuri celebrates San Foca’s annual Feast of be selling everything from an aged balsamic vinegar
the Madonna of the Sea by walking along the sand, matured in wooden barrels for a minimum of three
preaching to holidaymakers. But this year, he decided years, to a Specially Selected buffalo mozzarella and
to do something a bit different. With the help of two a Toscano extra-virgin olive oil. The chain is even
volunteers, he hoisted the five-foot statue onto the offering a cheaper take on the popular San Pellegrino
pedal-boat and cruised along the shore, booming out fizzy drink, in blood orange, orange or lemon and mint.
his holy words through a megaphone while a Vatican The Italian range will be available as ‘Special Buys’ – in
flag fluttered in the breeze. It’s not quite walking on other words, limited quantities – so you’d best get
water, but it’s still not bad for a mere mortal. down to your nearest Aldi branch pronto!

12 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.News.sg6.indd 12 28/09/2017 10:38am

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IT156.Adp13.sg1.indd 13 25/09/2017 10:32am

 FOOD & PRODUCTS

ITALIA!’S
Top picks
This month we’re beginning to get festive
with ceramics and other gift ideas, plus travel
accessories, designer furniture and more

COFFEE TIME
LSA Bangle Coffee Cup & Saucer, set
of two, £30, www.black-by-design.co.uk WHEN IN ROME
The Pantheon, Rome: a limited edition print from
the original watercolour, £155, www.alanreed.com
SHINING LIGHT
Fornasetti Fior Di Lina
candle, £140,
www.amara.com
KITCHEN ART
Taste the rainbow with this Frantoio
Muraglia extra virgin olive in a painted
terracotta bottle, £28, www.souschef.co.uk

SOFT LANDING SAUCY NUMBER

A bit of fizzy fun for Christmas, Drizzle over gelati, cakes – even fresh berries,
£15, www.very.co.uk £4.99, www.lakeland.co.uk

16 ITALIA! November
14 December 2013
2017

IT156.TopPicks.sg5.indd 14 27/09/2017 14:16pm

 ALL ABOVE BOARD
This chic and sleek Tweed Dining Table by Zanotta
is a modern classic, £2,945, www.chaplins.co.uk
INTO THE BLUE
Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo
sets, from £90, www.johnlewis.com

PICK A CARD
Il Bussetto Italian
leather card holder, £50,
www.notanotherbill.com

LISTEN TO
THE MUSIC
Italian songbird
Carly Paoli’s new CD
of classics, £9.99,
www.hmv.co.uk
MERCHANT OF VENICE
Create your own perfume at Palazzo Mocenigo, an historic museum
in Venice. For costs and details, www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it

ANTIPASTI HEAVEN
Grab an olive and antipasti subscription
from Borough Olives! £73 for six months,
www.notonthehighstreet.com/borougholives

November 2013ITALIA!
December2017 ITALIA! 17
15

IT156.TopPicks.sg5.indd 15 27/09/2017 14:16pm

 NEWS

EVENTS IN NOVEMBER 2017

There is a great variety of festivals, shows, and celebrations in Italy this month,
with classic cars in Milan, stamps and coins in Verona, books in Pisa, wine in
Merano and cartoons and illustration in Bologna just a few of the highlights…

1 ALL SAINTS’ DAY

1 November
2 Nationwide ALL SOULS’ DAY
Shopaholics, look 2 November
3 away now! This annual Nationwide
Catholic celebration is a Another largely
4 national holiday in Italy, peaceful festival, today
which means shops is all about honouring
5 across the country friends and relatives
close their doors for the who’ve passed away, and
6 day. On the plus side, many Italians attend
many museums and art Mass before visiting
7 galleries will be open, loved ones’ final resting
giving you the perfect places to leave flowers,
8 opportunity to catch up candles and cards. In NICK CAVE AND
on your culture. The day Sicily, they celebrate THE BAD SEEDS
9 also sees many Italian what they call U Juorno 8 November
families exhanging gifts re Muorti (The Day of Rome
10 and getting together the Dead) by hiding He may be 60, and 16 PISA BOOK MERANO WINE
for a special dinner – presents and sweets – studio albums into FESTIVAL FESTIVAL
11 supposedly offerings his illustrious career, 10-12 November 10-14 November FESTA DI SAN
but even if you’re not
from family members on but Nick Cave has lost Pisa Merano MARTINO
Italian, feel free to do
12 the same! the other side – around none of his intensity. Though we’re now living This prestigious event 11 November
Tonight, the Australian in a fast-moving digital is now in its 26th year, Sicily
the house for children
13 to find when they get singer brings his band to age, the lure of a good and it’s not hard to Bet you didn’t know
Rome’s PalaLottomatica book never seems to see why it’s been so there was a patron
out of bed.
14 as part of a European go away – and hurrah successful. For five saint of wine makers!
tour. At the time of for that. There will be days, more than 450 Well, his name is San
15 writing, it had yet to thousands to tempt you international wineries, Martino and every year
commence, so we can’t at this annual gathering 200 food producers and on 11 November he’s
16 offer any clues as to at the Pisa Congress 15 chefs set up camp celebrated throughout
what the setlist will be. Centre – everything in picture-postcard Sicily, with many of
17 But expect at least a from teen fiction to South Tyrol for a long the island’s wineries
few tracks from 2016’s travelogues, sci-fi to weekend of grape- opening their doors
18 Skeleton Tree – the Shakespeare. But as well based cheer – think to enable tourists to
painfully raw collection as picking up a bargain tastings, competitions sample their latest
19 that followed the tragic or two, you can learn and demonstrations. produce. Some locals
death of Cave’s 15-year- how the magic happens If that’s not reason also celebrate the
20 old son. at a series of talks and enough to visit, you day by lunching on a
www.viagogo.co.uk workshops. Denise Mina could always relax in specially made bread
21 and Louise Welsh are one of the local spas – called La Muffuletta
among the guests this the area is famous for di San Martino, which
22 year. www.pisabook them. www.meranowine comes stuffed with
festival.com festival.com salami and cheese, and
23 topped with sesame
seeds. It’s delicious!
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
DEC 1

16 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.Events.sg4.indd 16 26/09/2017 17:14pm

 Motor enthusiasts
will be heading
to the Milano
Autoclassica

JAMES BLUNT
12 November
Rome
Love him or loathe him,
you can’t deny that
James Blunt has had a
pretty amazing career –
20 million albums sold
worldwide speaks for
itself. The most recent of
his five studio albums,
The Afterlove, is likely
to be the main focus SERIE A FOOTBALL:
of tonight’s show at AS ROMA V LAZIO
Rome’s PalaLottomatica, 18 November
though hardcore fans will Rome
be hoping the former Even if you’re not a
squaddie delves into football fan, it’s worth
his impressive back heading to the Stadio
catalogue to kickstart Olimpico today just
an almighty singalong. to witness one of the
An arms-aloft encore sport’s most passionately
of You’re Beautiful is a contested local derbies.
nailed-on certainty. Both of Rome’s big teams
www.viagogo.co.uk enjoyed a successful
season in 2016/17,
with Lazio finishing a
creditable fifth in Serie
A, and AS Roma faring
even better – only just
being pipped to the title
by the currently dominant
Juventus. So there’s all to
play for in this evening’s
encounter (kick-off 5pm),
and the stadium is sure to
be rocking.
www.viagogo.co.uk
FESTA DELLA
SALUTE
21 November
Venice
Standing imperiously
over Venice, the Santa
Maria della Salute church
is one of the city’s most
iconic buildings. But how
many people know that
it was built, in the 17th
century, as a gift to the
Virgin Mary, in the hope
that she would save the
city from a plague that
had accounted for a third
of the population? In
honour of the Madonna,
and those who died,
thousands will gather at
the basilica on this day
to pay their respects.
BILBOLBUL
24-26 November
Bologna
Italy might be famous
for its lavish Grand
Master paintings, but
this week Bologna will be
celebrating a different
kind of art. Named after
the legendary Italian
comic-strip series that
was published in the
children’s magazine
Il Corriere dei Piccoli,
Bilbolbul sees some
of the city’s historical
buildings showcasing
the best cartoon and
illustrative work out
there. Italian artist
Lorenzo Mattotti
(Cosmopolitan, The New
Yorker) will have his
work shown, while other
luminaries from the
industry will give talks
and workshops.
www.bilbolbul.net
MILANO
AUTOCLASSICA
24-26 November
Milan
It may be relatively
new, but this car show
at the Fiera Milano Rho
is quickly establishing
itself as a must-visit
event for motoring
enthusiasts. Visitors
come from far and
wide to admire both
classic sports cars
and innovative new
contraptions, browse row
upon row of spare parts,
share stories with fellow
wheeling buffs, and sign
up for all kinds of clubs.
Last November, around
60,000 people attended
the event, but you can
expect that number
to grow as word gets
around. www.milano
autoclassica.com
Image© iStock
VERONAFIL
24-26 November
Verona
We’ve all, at some point
or another, browsed
our spare change in the
hope that we might have
a rare 50p or £1 coin
hiding amongst it. But
for some people, coin
collecting is a lifetime
passion – and the annual
Veronafil event caters
to them. For two days,
the massive Veronafiere
chinks and clinks to the
sound of rare farthings
and halfgroats changing
hands. And philatelists
are catered for, too,
with a fair smattering
of collectable postage
stamps on show.
www.veronafil.it

While we always try our best to present the correct details, please note that dates are subject to change. If you plan to go, check details before you travel.

November 2017 ITALIA! 17

IT156.Events.sg4.indd 17 26/09/2017 17:14pm

 S P E A K I TA L I A !
GAZZETTA
We endured another terrible summer in the UK, and they did in Italy too, but for quite the
opposite reasons. Tom Alberto Bull on the drought and heat that affected the peninsula…
Danza della pioggia
Un’altra estate è trascorsa in Gran Bretagna,
accompagnata dalle solite lamentele sul clima variabile
(e spesso piovoso). E’ naturale che durante questi mesi
deludenti molti abbiano guardato al Mediterraneo con
occhi invidiosi visto che lì si poteva godere il sole sulle
spiagge dorate per settimane intere. Molto spesso questi
sentimenti sono giustificati, tuttavia quest’anno le cose
sono andate diversamente – specialmente in Italia.
Nei mesi scorsi l’Italia ha sofferto la siccità
più lunga e più grave da oltre 60 anni, assieme ad
un’ondata di estremo calore che è stata percepita in
tutta l’Europa meridionale. Più questa condizione
durava e più se ne sentivano le conseguenze in tutto
il paese, costringendo le autorità a dichiarare lo stato
di emergenza anche in centri turistici come Venezia
e Roma.
A Roma la situazione si è rivelata particolarmente
grave, dal momento che la pioggia in città è calata del
70 por cento rispetto ai tre anni precedenti. Proprio
mentre i romani rientravano dalle ferie estive e cresceva
la richiesta di consumo idrico, la società responsabile
era costretta a limitare la pressione dell’acqua nelle
proprietà residenziali durante la notte, oltre a
esaminare accuratamente la rete urbana alla ricerca di
possibili perdite.
Anche la fiorente industria agricola italiana
ha subito conseguenze. Le altissime temperature
e l’evaporazione delle acque hanno reso difficile
l’irrigazione dei raccolti. L’associazione italiana degli
agricoltori, Coldiretti, ha reso noto che circa due terzi
dei terreni sono stati danneggiati, con un costo per
l’industria di ben due miliardi di euro. I raccolti più
colpiti comprendono olive, pomodori e uva che hanno
sperimentato un calo produttivo del 15 por cento.
Un altro effetto negativo di questo clima bizzarro
è consistito in una serie di incendi sparsi in tutta la
campagna arida e asciutta. Due grossi incidenti si sono
avuti nei campi circondanti le falde del Vesuvio, da cui
si alzavano grosse colonne di fumo, ed una controversa
foresta nel Lazio in cui si poteva leggere la parola
DUX in onore del dittatore fascista Benito Mussolini.
Sebbene vi siano stati forti sospetti di origine dolosa,
il clima ha certamente contribuito alla rapidità con
cui gli incendi si sono diffusi.
Quando mio zio è venuto dal sud Italia a trovarci
in Inghilterra in agosto non riusciva a trattenersi dalla
gioia perche’ si è messo a diluviare. La prossima volta
che ci lamentiamo delle nostre estati, facciamo un
pensierino per tutti quelli che pregano per avere un
po’ di pioggia.
18 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.Gazzetta.sg4.indd 18
ITALIA!
Rain dance
So another British summer has passed, and not without
the usual complaints about the inconsistent (and often
miserable) weather. During these disappointing months
it’s only natural to cast envious eyes in the direction of
the Mediterranean as they enjoy weeks of uninterrupted
sun on golden beaches. For the most part this sentiment
is justified. However, this year has been a little different
– especially in Italy.
Over the past few months Italy has been suffering
from one of its longest and most severe droughts in
over 60 years, in conjunction with an extreme heatwave
that has been felt across southern Europe. The longer it
has gone on, the more the consequences have been felt
across the country. This led to the authorities placing
26 cities on the maximum heat alert, including tourist
hotspots such as Venice and Rome.
In Rome the situation has been particularly serious,
with the city having 70 per cent less rainfall than the
previous three years. As many Romans return from
their summer vacations and the demand for water in
the city rises, the water company has been forced to cut
the water pressure for residential properties at night,
as well as meticulously checking for any leaks in the
network. The Vatican has pitched in by switching off
its 100 fountains.
Italy’s thriving agricultural industry has also
been deeply affected. The soaring temperatures and
evaporating water have made it extremely difficult to
keep crops healthy and hydrated. The Italian farmers
association, Coldiretti, has reported that nearly two-
thirds of the nation’s farmland has been affected, costing
the industry a whopping two billion euros. The worst hit
crops have been olives, tomatoes, and grapes which alone
has seen a decline in production by up to 15 per cent.
Another negative effect of the freak weather has
been a spate of wildfires which have spread across
the dry, arid countryside. Two major incidents have
seen smoke pouring from the fields surrounding
Mount Vesuvius in Naples, and a controversial
forestry plantation in Lazio which spelled out ‘DUX’
as a tribute to the fascist dictator Benito Mussolini.
Although some of these fires have drawn suspicion of
foul play, the weather certainly contributed to the rapid
rate at which they spread.
When my uncle came over to England from
southern Italy in August he couldn’t help but rejoice
when the heavens opened and it started to chuck it
down. So next time you complain about the British
summer, spare a thought for those who are actually
praying for some rain.
26/09/2017 17:09pm
 R E A D I TA L I A !

IN PRINT
This month, the life and times of Sophia Loren,
plus 100 of the very best sparkling wines from
around the globe, and tasty mushroom recipes

SOPHIA LOREN: MOVIE STAR ITALIAN STYLE

Cindy De La Hoz, Running Press, £23.99 (hardback)
To coin a cliché, Sophia Loren is a ‘living legend’ and an Italian
‘national treasure’, but there is nothing of the clichéd about the
life of this amazing actress whose career has spanned more than
60 years. Still working that iconic allure to this day, Sophia Loren:
Movie Star Italian Style is a photographic homage to this stellar
actress, telling the tale of her fascinating life.
From the skinny stuzzicadenti (toothpick) in Pozzuoli just
outside Naples to Best Actress In a Foreign Film Oscar, the book
traces her rise to fame. A prize in a local beauty contest as a
16-year-old led to her long-lived acting career in a raft of films
including The Pride and the Passion, Houseboat, Marriage Italian
Style, Grumpier Old Men and Two Women. Peppered liberally with
words from Sophia, her co-stars, friends and family, this book
is also packed with hundreds of rare colour and black-and-white
photographs, which makes it a delicious page-turner and window
on the golden age of cinema. For anyone who has an interest in
film history, this book is definitely one to add to your shelves.

DRINK MUSHROOMS
MORE FIZZ! Jenny Linford, Ryland
Jonathan Ray, Peters & Small, £14.99
Quadrille, £14.99 (hardback)
(hardback) Any Italian cook
And so say all of will have a beloved
us here at Italia! mushroom recipe or
magazine. Italy may two in their repertoire
be the land of prosecco – the deep umami
but have you heard of of porcini is the
Brachetto, Franciacorta backdrop to many
and Il Grillo di Santa flavoursome dishes.
Tresa (a fine sparkling This celebration of
wine from Sicily)? our favourite member
All these lesser-known of the fungi family is
sparklers hail from crammed with tasty
Italy but you’ll find recipes for mushrooms
these and many more of every kind, taken
fizzy examples from from cuisines around
around the world in the world that enjoy it for those very savoury qualities. From shiitake to
Drink More Fizz!. oyster, mushrooms come in such a vast array of sizes, shapes and colours,
Taking a sip or two it makes them a fascinating culinary ingredient and so delicious to eat.
and a long hard look at 100 of the world’s best sparkling wines, (which From the humble button mushroom to wild chanterelles and porcini
the author urges us to ‘drink with abandon’), it is a fascinating, frothy – not forgetting the elusive and expensive truffle, Jenny Linford’s book
journey through the finest fizz from far-flung vineyards and those closer covers them all. With simple supper dishes like Tricolore Mushroom
to home. Find out more about classics like Moët and Dom Pérignon and Frittata and Mushroom Burgers to more indulgent and hearty mains
the more intriguing Breaky Bottom Sparkling Brut Seyval Blanc from like Truffled Mash Cottage Pie and Polenta with Wild Mushrooms,
East Sussex or Narrative Ancient Method by Okanagan Crush Pad and there are also lighter offerings for warmer days, plenty of salads plus
Inniskillin Icewine, both from Canada. With sections on the right type curries and pasta dishes. Jenny includes fascinating articles on growing
of glassware, matching fizz with food and where to buy these bottles, your own, mushroom folklore and fungi facts too. You can try some
this fascinating guide is a perfect Christmas gift. of these recipes in the next issue of Italia!, out 9 November.

November 2017 ITALIA! 19

IT156.BookReviews.sg5.indd 19 27/09/2017 14:06pm

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

VIEWPOINT An art installation by Lorenzo Quinn on Venice’s Grand Canal symbolises the threat
to the city from rising waters caused by climate change…

20 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.Viewpoint.sg4.indd 20 26/09/2017 17:11pm

 Opposite the Rialto fish market, two giant hands emerge from the waters
and touch against the Ca’ Sagredo. Are they bracing the hotel, or reaching up
to destroy it? The intervention is the work of contemporary sculptor Lorenzo
Quinn (son of the actor Anthony Quinn). Entitled Support, it is meant as a
Image by Amanda Robinson

statement on climate change and the effect rising waters are having on the
city. The work was commissioned for Biennale Arte 2017 and will remain here
until the city-wide art exhibition closes on November the 26th. “I wanted to
sculpt what is considered the hardest and most technically challenging part
of the human body. The hand holds so much power – the power to love, to
hate, to create, to destroy,” explained the artist.

November 2017 ITALIA! 21

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 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Back from
the brink
Autumn is a great time to see Norcia, says Hannah Frances.
Fractured by last October’s earthquake, the determined and
resilient town in the heart of Umbria is coming back stronger,
and there are great things for visitors to discover…

22 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.UmbriaAfterTheEarthquakes.sg4.indd 22 26/09/2017 17:04pm

 I
“ t’s a pleasure to introduce
the flavours of our town”
said head chef Valentino
Palmisano, as a slim,
rectangular plate of local
delicacies – including silky folds of
prosciutto crudo, ever-so-slightly spicy
and synonymous with the town –
were placed in front of us. “Welcome
to Norcia!”
Famous as the birthplace of St
llo Migliosi
Benedict and widely considered
to be one of Italy’s greatest foodie
outposts, Norcia is a rural yet
Image © Marce
sophisticated place at the edge of the
Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini in
southeast Umbria.
Last autumn was devastating for
the medieval town. The earthquake
that hit Amatrice in August,
tragically killing 300 people, was
Clockwise from
left: Surveying followed in October by a powerful
the damage of 6.6 magnitude quake at Norcia.
last October’s Thankfully there were no casualties
earthquake; in this time, but the 14th-century
front of the ruins Basilica of St Benedict was almost
of the basilica, the
completely flattened, thousands of
statue of St Benedict
remarkably remained
families were displaced and many
unscathed; view over businesses have been affected.
Castelluccio; the Norcia has slowly been putting
Palazzo Seneca itself back together, and Palmisano’s
The 16th-century Palazzo Seneca suffered no structural damage, thanks to
a seven-year restoration that involved a lot of work on earthquake-proofing
Image © Marcello Migliosi
IT156.UmbriaAfterTheEarthquakes.sg4.indd 23
culinary welcome tells the story
Images © Palazzo Seneca unless otherwise stated
of a strong and spirited region.
The people here are resilient and
optimistic, and they continue
to produce some of Italy’s most
exquisite food, under extremely
trying conditions.
Much of the town, and the
surviving façade of its beloved
basilica, is plastered in scaffolding,
but the mood is one of great
productivity and positivity as
the community rallies to build
something better together.
Until April, the centro storico was
a designated zona rossa, or red zone,
accessible only to the emergency
services. The piazza and main artery
of the town centre were opened to
the public then, and its five-star
hotel, Palazzo Seneca, was the first
hotel in the town to reopen.
FAMILY BUSINESS
The 16th-century Palazzo Seneca
had suffered no structural damage,
thanks to a seven-year restoration
that involved a lot of work on
earthquake-proofing. The hotel
is a family business and part of
the luxury Relais & Châteaux
Image © Marco Lamberto
November 2017 ITALIA! 23
26/09/2017 17:04pm
 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Image © Pixelshop
PALAZZO SENECA
Via Cesare Battisti, 12
% +39 0743 817434
www.palazzoseneca.com
Though there are places to stay near Norcia,
at the time of writing this was still the only
hotel that had reopened in town.
GROTTA AZZURRA
Via Vittorio Alfieri, 6
% +39 0743 816513
www.hotelgrottaazzurra.com
Grotta Azzurra is a lower-priced alternative,
also owned by the Bianconis and scheduled
to reopen next year. Rates from €160.
Image © M Glock

VESPASIA
Palazzo Seneca, Via Cesare Battisti, 12
% +39 0743 817434
www.palazzoseneca.com
Palazzo Seneca’s restaurant first opened its
doors in 2008 and has since won a Michelin
star. One of the best restaurants in Umbria.
Dishes from €21.
RISTORANTE GRANARO DEL MONTE
Via Vittorio Alfieri, 12
% +39 0743 816513
www.hotelgrottaazzurra.com
The restaurant of the Grotto Azzurra, moved
after the quake from its original location.
Classic, hearty dishes such as tagliolini al
tartufo. Dishes around €10.
ENOTECA DEL GRANARO
Corso Sertorio, 18
% +39 0743 816513
Image © M Roberto

www.hotelgrottaazzurra.com
For a glass of wine and charcuterie platter
with cloudy honey, walnuts and truffle.

24 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.UmbriaAfterTheEarthquakes.sg4.indd 24 26/09/2017 17:04pm

 collection, with brothers Vincenzo
and Federico Bianconi at the helm.
“It’s important to ensure that
our guests know that we take the
risks of our location very seriously,”
explained Federico Bianconi, “We
now have a handbook in every
room on earthquake procedure,
precautions and reassurance on the
structural safety of this hotel”.
We were sat at the end of a vast
meeting table in a room concealed
by a bookcase. This, along with the
rich smell of wooden writing desks,
a library of antique books and the
soft arc of the stone ceiling, sets a
decidedly haute-Hogwarts tone.
The hotel is undeniably
luxurious yet distinctively Umbrian
Clockwise from top in its understated style. This,
left: Castelluccio; of course, was no accident: the
spaghetti al
Bianconis worked scrupulously with
pomodoro; the
Ristorante Vespasia; the region’s best artisans to create
Chef Valentino bespoke furniture using locally
Parmisano; the produced materials. The resulting
Palazzo Seneca aesthetic is extremely masculine
library; Palazzo with leather wing-back chairs, hand-
Seneca entrance;
carved wood and natural, earthy
Norcia; seafood
salad; lamb, a
tones. It’s a dedicated and discerning
local speciality; celebration of Umbrian craft.
the mountains near Arguably, however, the spoils
Norcia of Umbria are best enjoyed on the
From this Michelin-star establishment to the no-fuss trattoria next
door, Italy’s culinary code is clear: good produce requires little pomp
IT156.UmbriaAfterTheEarthquakes.sg4.indd 25
plate. Palazzo Seneca’s restaurant,
first opened in 2008, already carries
a sense of great heritage and has
scooped a Michelin star. Sicilian-
born Palmisano leads the Vespasia
kitchen with charm and finesse.
He is also a great protagonist,
and passionately introduces our
starter: “This dish represents Italian
cooking, across all Italy, and to all
Italians.” The waiters place two
bowls of neatly twisted pasta before
us, spaghetti al pomodoro. From this
Michelin-star establishment to the
no-fuss trattoria next door, Italy’s
culinary code is clear: good produce
requires little pomp.
RICH FOOD HERITAGE
Norcia is has an rich food heritage,
best known for its wild boar, truffles,
saffron, pecorino cheese, porcini
mushrooms and high-quality pork.
The town is revered for its meat
production and the name carries a
mark of excellence – the word for
a salumi shop in central Italy is
norcineria. The micro-region is also
home to some of the world’s most
famous lentils, grown in nearby
Castelluccio. At 1,452 metres above
sea level, it is the highest village
November 2017 ITALIA! 25
26/09/2017 17:04pm
 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
in the Apennines, and one of the
highest settlements in Italy. It was
badly damaged by the earthquake
and the road between Norcia and
Castelluccio was closed until June,
though it did briefly reopen earlier
in the year for lentil farmers to sow
their seeds. The isolated village
sits above the magnificent Piano
Grande, which explodes into colour
in the early summer with a blanket
of wild flowers. It’s this bright sea of
cyclamen, iris, crocus, and poppies
that helps support the tiny stems of
the delicate lentil plants.
It’s a sad situation for businesses
here and across the region, as
tourists are hesitant to visit the area
after the earthquake. Hotels some 85
kilometres away have experienced
hundreds of cancellations despite
suffering no damages; indeed,
Palazzo Seneca, right at the
epicentre, lost only vases and
mirrors, which is testament to its
strong refortifications. The timing
was also unfortunate, as it’s between
October and Christmas when travel
agents book their summer tours and,
without knowing when Norcia and
its surrounding roads would reopen,
they have avoided the area entirely.
Norcia now desperately needs its tourists to return.The euros spent in farm
shops, restaurants and hotels directly help to rebuild what has been lost
26 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.UmbriaAfterTheEarthquakes.sg4.indd 26
“We hosted the grand reopening
and press conference at the Palazzo
in April,” says Bianconi, “and we’ve
helped plan fund-raisers over the
coming months to support the ‘I
Love Norcia’ relief fund. We’re
lucky that the town has connections
with some high-profile sports
people; many footballers have
trained here and they’re keen to
show their support, which is great
for PR as it attracts national support
of our cause.” Palazzo Seneca also
pledged to open its swimming pool
to local children over the school
holidays after the ongoing closure of
the town’s own facilities.
PRAYER AND WORK
Norcia is, of course, the birthplace
of St Benedict, the founder of the
Order of Saint Benedict, the
Benedictine Monks. He was born at
the end of the 5th century AD and is
known for his motto Ora et Labora,
‘prayer and work’. The Order has
remained faithful to this ethos with
the ongoing production of its artisan
beer, Birra Nursia. (Nursia was the
Roman name for Norcia.)
The brewery itself suffered
minor damages in the earthquake,
and the monks responded with
a limited edition birra del terremoto
called I Love Norcia, which
continues to raise money for
reconstruction in central Italy.
Some say the ‘beer of the earthquake’
has a unique and flavour, as it was
fermenting in vats during the
strongest earthquake to strike Italy
in 36 years.
Norcia now desperately needs its
tourists to return. A visit represents
solidarity and support for the local
people, and the euros spent in farm
shops, restaurants and hotels directly
help rebuild what has been lost.
The region is a haven for foodies
and adventurers, and autumn is a
wonderful time of year to experience
it. “The culinary activities we offer
here are unique, and can only be
found in this area” says Bianconi,
“Our cooking classes and truffle-
hunting trips, for example, are
exclusive to the gastronomic
traditions of Norcia. Outdoor
activities are dictated by the
landscape; people come from all over Clockwise from
the world to experience trekking, top: Drawing room
rafting, mountain biking, and horse in the Palazzo
riding in the Sibillini Mountains Seneca; the Sibillini
National Park.” Mountains National
Park in summer;
the Palazzo Seneca
garden; the hotel’s
reception room; one
of the bedrooms; the
Superior room; the
Junior suite
26/09/2017 17:05pm
 Scour the woodland for nutty
nuggets of truffle with an expert
cavatore, head to the river for some
of the country’s most exhilarating
white-water rafting, or simply
enjoy the pleasant pace of small-
town life. Browse little, family-run
shops, wander the narrow streets and
admire the vast mountain views that
materialise between the thick city
walls. Sip a Birra Nursia outside a
café in the warm evening sun, and
devour the dishes of the region in
tiny trattorias: a bowl of creamy
lentils with sausage and a sluice
of Umbrian extra-virgin olive oil;
pasta alla Norcina with ricotta and
pancetta; slow cooked meats with
generous shavings of fresh truffle.
And do it all knowing you are
giving to the people of Norcia in
your support of their beautiful and
bountiful region.
With thanks to Umbria Green Card,
Palazzo Seneca and Umbria Tourism.
GETTING THERE
➤ Norcia is easy to reach from the
airports of Rome Fiumicino, Rome
Ciampino and Perugia Sant’Egidio. Either
rent a car (the drive is about 2.5 hours
from Rome, 1.5 hours from Perugia),
or take the train to Spoleto, where
the Spolentina bus service connects
with Norcia. Alternatively, Palazzo
Seneca is happy to assist with private
transportation arrangements.
IT156.UmbriaAfterTheEarthquakes.sg4.indd 27
WHERE TO SHOP
MOSCATELLI TARTUFI NORCIA
Corso Sertorio, 42/44
% +39 0743 817388
www.moscatellitartufi.com
The place to go for black truffles; fresh
when in season, or preserved. Open all
day, every day, except Christmas Day and
Boxing Day.
FRATELLI ANSUINI DI MASTRO PEPPE
Via Anicia, 105
% +39 0743 816643
www.norcineriaansuini.it
A paradise for procurers of pig-related
produce: the norcineria of Norcia.
Image © Zyance
CORVUS ET COLUMBA
Via Reguardati, 22
% +39 0743 817125
‘The Raven and Dove’, in Latin, could
almost be an English pub name, but this
is the Benedictine brewery outlet, and the
place to buy Birra Nursia.
DONATE
➤ For information on how to donate
directly to the Norcia rebuilding fund
visit www.ilovenorcia.org
November 2017 ITALIA! 27
26/09/2017 17:05pm
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 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Clockwise from
top left: Loggia
with a Madonna
and Child (a late-
Gothic addition)
above the main
entrance to the
cathedral; Palazzo
Municipale, the
Arco del Volto
del Cavallo; the
flank of the
cathedral; leone
stiloforo, outside
the cathedral; the
Palazzo Prosperi-
Sacrati; the
Cathedral of St
George; balcony
at Palazzo
Prosperi-Sacrati;
a local reading Il
Resto del Carlino

30 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.48hrsFerrara.sg4.indd 30 26/09/2017 14:19pm

 48 HOURS IN…
Photography by Iain Reid

Ferrara
This was Europe’s first modern city, and plans laid here
have been copied across the continent. Sara Scarpa
visits the often overlooked city of the Este family…

O
ne evening earlier this year, I watched a television
programme about the Signorie, the governing bodies of
old Italy, and was fascinated by the stories of these famous
families who ruled il Bel Paese during the Medieval and
Renaissance periods. What really caught my attention was
the tale of the younger branch of the Este House, who ruled Ferrara for
over three centuries. I must confess that I did not know much about them
before, but I was inspired to read more. The history of the Estensi is deeply
connected to the history of Ferrara. The 15th and 16th centuries were the
golden age for the Estensi, and for Ferrara as well. During this time the
city became one of Italy’s greatest centres of Renaissance culture; it hosted
a famous university, great writers such as Boiardo, Ariosto and Tasso, and
artists such as Tura, Garofalo and Dosso. To better understand the story of
Ferrara, and of the Estensi, I knew I really needed to see the city for myself.
Inspired by the stories of the past splendour of the Este court I tried to
picture what Ferrara would have looked like during its golden age, when
the signorie occupied the delizie (the stunning family residences) in the city
and in the surrounding countryside. In these delizie (literally, “delights”) –
which they would have reached by boat along the many no longer existing
canals – the ruling families would have spent much of their time in leisure –
relaxing, eating, hunting and partying.

November 2017 ITALIA! 31

IT156.48hrsFerrara.sg4.indd 31 27/09/2017 11:32am

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
CATTEDRALE DI SAN GIORGIO 1
Piazza della Cattedrale
•
☎ +39 0532 207449
Dedicated to Saint George, the cathedral’s
construction started in the 12th century in
the Romanesque style (still visible on the
lower part of the façade) and went on some
decades later in Gothic style (still visible
on the upper part with the numerous
small arches). Above the central door is
the work of the sculptor Nicholaus (1135)
depicting St George and scenes from the
New Testament. The pink and white marble
unfinished bell tower is in the Renaissance
style (by Leon Battista Alberti). Finally, the
interior of the cathedral was completely
rebuilt in the Baroque style after a terrible
fire in the 17th century.
•
PALAZZO DEI DIAMANTI 2
Corso Ercole I d’Este, 21
☎ +39 0532 244949
www.palazzodiamanti.it
The Palazzo dei Diamanti was built by
Sigismondo d’Este in 1492 and is known
for the striking bugnato of its exterior
walls, which are clad with around 8,500
pyramid-shaped stones pointing in
different directions so as to capture the
sunlight at its best. The main floor of the
palace houses the National Art Gallery of
Ferrara, holding some of the best paintings
created by the School of Ferrara between
the 13th and the 18th centuries, as well
as ones by other great artists. The lower
floor houses the Civic Gallery of Modern
and Contemporary Art, which has hosted
important art exhibitions since 1992.
32 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.48hrsFerrara.sg4.indd 32
The Palazzo dei Diamanti
‘Modern’ Ferrara is still 500 years old
DON’T MISS Fascinated by the description
FERRARA
of the ‘City of the Renaissance’,
BALLOON I decided to plan the trip. I had,
of course, to convince Iain to come
FESTIVAL
This is one of along and photograph the city. The
the largest fact that he was still recalling the
festivals of hot
exquisite dishes of our last trip to
air ballooning
in Europe. To a
Emilia-Romagna meant this was an
beautiful natural easy sell – just the mention of the
setting, the cappellacci, the pasticcio di maccheroni
Bassani Urban alla ferrarese (macaroni pie) and
Park, 30 teams Fortana wine was good enough for
bring their him to consent.
traditional or
Embarking a train departing
uniquely shaped
from Venice we reached our
crafts. There
destination with a pleasant journey
are more than
of just over an hour, passing via
3,000 flights
over ten days of Padua. Alighting from the train
entertainment
our first surprise was waiting: only
– competitions,
a handful of people joined us in
illuminated
balloon flights
getting off in Ferrara, and none of
at night, shows, them appeared to be tourists.
concerts, food The walk to the centro storico
and shopping. is a simple one – after fifteen
minutes through Viale Cavour, a
nice residential street with elegant
Liberty palaces, we arrived in the
heart of the city and found ourselves
at the foot of the imposing castle,
the Castello Estense.
The (unfinished) campanile
Medieval architecture remains
This was initially built as a
fortress in 1385 to defend the Este
family after a dangerous revolt had
risen against them. Constructed
according to the project of Bartolino
da Novara, it was continuously
renovated at least until the 16th
century. The dukes who ruled
Ferrara embellished it with the
addition of roof terraces, marble
balconies, a Renaissance-style
courtyard, frescoes and elegant
apartments. Today, it has lost its
austerity and looks more like a
beautiful residence witnessing the
great past of the Este court.
SYMBOL OF POWER
The castle is the symbol of the
power of the family, and of Ferrara
itself. It is also the first stop to get
to know the city. On the ground
floor you will find the tourist
information centre, where you can
gather all the advice you need about
exhibitions and museums. The staff
working there – and the Ferraresi
in general – are very friendly and
sociable people. Perhaps it is because
they are not used to having many
26/09/2017 14:19pm

tourists around but they are always
extremely helpful and kind. In the
small shop inside the castle we met
an elderly local woman, Lara, who
chatted to us. She talked first a little
bit about the history of the castle,
then for quite a while about her life
in Ferrara, where she has been living
since she was born, and finally,
about her favourite ferraresi food.
We arrived in the heart of the city, at the
foot of the imposing Castello Estense
A proper visit to the castle is
definitely worth it. Still complete
with moat and drawbridge, when
you step in you will feel like if you
are stepping back in time. You can
visit the old kitchens, the dungeons
where the most infamous criminals
were kept and the rooms where the
Este family used to live. From the
top of the Torre dei Leoni you can
also enjoy a great view of the city.
It is in this castle that in 1425,
Niccolò III, condottiere and Marquis
of Ferrara, had his second wife,
IT156.48hrsFerrara.sg4.indd 33
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
MUSEO DELLA CATTEDRALE 3
Via San Romano, 1
•
☎ +39 0532 761299
www.ferrarainfo.com
The Cathedral Museum is set in the former
church and convent of San Romano. It
holds mainly objects belonging to the
cathedral, such as the 15th-century
decorative panels of the organ by Cosmè
Tura which represent the Annunciation
and St George and the Dragon. Here, you
can also admire both the Madonna of
the Pomegranate by Jacopo della Quercia
and, in the upper floor of the renovated
wing, one of the finest examples of Este
miniature art from the second half of the
15th century.
FERRARA CITY WALLS 4 •
For information contact the main Tourist
Information Office of Ferrara
☎ +39 0532 209370
www.ferrarainfo.com
Around nine kilometres of walls embrace
the centre of the city and represent a rare
surviving example of almost intact city
walls. Cycle or walk along the embankment,
or below in the moat. Surrounded by trees
The Castello Estense, a moated castle and greenery you will able to see historic
right in the centre of Ferrara gates, towers, ramparts, cannons and
discover more about the fascinating history
of the city of Ferrara.
DON’T MISS
Parisina Malatesta, and her lover (his
own illegitimate son, Ugo d’Este) IL PALIO DI
PALAZZO SCHIFANOIA 5
Via Scandiana, 23
•
murdered for an alleged affair. FERRARA ☎ +39 0532 244949
The fact might sound quite unfair, The Palio di www.artecultura.fe.it
especially when you know that Ferrara is the This is one of the few delizie still in
Niccolò himself boasted of sleeping oldest horse existence. The name Schifanoia literally
with hundreds of mistresses – even race in the means “avoiding boredom” as it refers to
world (1297).
the chroniclers of the time said that the building’s function for the Este family
Unusually,
he had children everywhere on both as a place to relax and have fun. Even
this palio is a
sides of the river Po! though it has been significantly damaged
celebratory race,
in the terrible earthquake of a few years
recalling the
golden age of
the city. Every
ago, the Salone dei Mesi is open to visitors.
It displays a series of frescoes by Francesco
del Cossa and Ercole de’ Roberti and other
May, there is a
whole month of Ferrarese artists, depicting in three tiers:
parades, flag- allegorical scenes, astrological symbols of
throwing and the months and scenes representing the life
During our visit there was also competitions of Borso d’Este.
a wonderful market flanking two between the
sides of the castle, with stalls of local eight contrade
artisans selling jewellery and small (districts) to
win the drape
handmade objects. Looking over the of St George. On
square stands the brooding statue the last Sunday
of Girolamo Savonarola, who seems in May (or the
definitely intent on some more first one in June
serious business than the browsers in case of rain)
in the piazza. The Dominican friar the culminating
event takes
and preacher, born in Ferrara and
place in the
active in Renaissance Florence, historic Piazza
stands imposingly in the middle Ariostea.
of the square – which takes its
November 2017 ITALIA! 33
26/09/2017 14:20pm
 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
2 12

WHERE TO EAT
AL BRINDISI 6 •
Via Adelardi, 11
10

☎ +39 0532 473744 11 15

www.albrindisi.net 13
The oldest wine bar in Europe – its 9 61
origins go back to 1435, when it was
called Hostaria del Chiuchiolino. It serves 3
4
food like cappellacci di zucca, pasticcio di
maccheroni alla ferrarese, salamina da sugo 7
(typical pork sausage), which can all be
enjoyed with some excellent wines. Try the
wines created by Fred (Federico Pellegrini), 8
musician and art expert, and owner of the 5
osteria: Bianco Alieno Ancestrale, Rosa per
Fred and Rosso di Fred.
●
€●€
14
TRATTORIA DA NOEMI 7
Via Ragno, 31
•
☎ +39 0532 769070
www.trattoriadanoemi.it
Located in a beautiful 15th-century palace Map data © 2017 Google

in the heart of Ferrara, this restaurant is

run by a family. They serve many speciality
dishes from Ferrara such as pasticcio di
maccheroni ferrarese (prepared according to
the traditional recipe), cappellacci di zucca,
salamina da sugo and the Tenerina cake. It
is usually very busy so it is recommended
that you book in advance.
●
€●€
QUEL FANTASTICO GIOVEDÌ 8
Via Castelnuovo, 9
• in Europe, and
☎ +39 0532 760570
www.quelfantasticogiovedi.it
Located not too far from Via delle Volte,
this restaurant offers great dishes in an
intimate atmosphere.
●
€●€
OCA GIULIVA 9 •
Via Boccacanale di San Stefano, 38/40
☎ +39 0532 207628
www.ristorantelocagiuliva.it
Located in the heart of Ferrara, in a
wonderful 13th-century palace near the
cathedral, this restaurant is a charming
spot. Its cuisine mixes tradition with
creativity. Simple starters and great main
dishes, with over 100 wines to choose from
to accompany your dish.
●
€●€
DON GIOVANNI 10 •
Corso Ercole I d’Este, 1
☎ +39 0532 243363
www.ildongiovanni.com
The vegetables are harvested from the
restaurant’s own garden, the bread is baked
daily and there are over 600 excellent wines
to choose from. The chef, Pier Luigi di
Diego, and his wife Laura Galantuomo are
sure to make your experience a wonderful
gastronomical journey.
●
€●€●
€ ●€●€●€ More than €50
DON’T MISS name from him – his arms showing
FERRARA
the same energetic passion that five
BUSKERS’ hundred years ago caused him to be
FESTIVAL burnt at the stake.
This is the Nearby, on top of the Arco
largest street del Volto del Cavallo, the arched
music festival
also the oldest,
entrance to the Palazzo Municipale,
you will notice two other bronze
with more than statues. On the right, if you are
200 artists from facing the palace, stands the
around the world equestrian statue of Niccolò
performing. It III d’Este (whom we have just
has been taking mentioned for his fame with
place at the end
women), and next to him, on the
of August every
year since 1988.
www.ferrara
left, seated on his throne in the
process of administrating justice,
buskers.com one of his illegitimate sons, Borso
d’Este, Duke of Ferrara and first
Duke of Modena. Father and
On the right, facing the palace, stands the
equestrian statue of Niccolò III d’Este
son stand directly in front of the
cathedral and seem almost to be
putting the Este House stamp of
approval on it, as they have done on
everything else in the city.
➤ KEY TO
RESTAURANT PRICES ARCHITECTURAL IMAGE
(full meal per
The Cattedrale di San Giorgio,
person, not
including wine)
dedicated to the patron saint of
●€ Up to €25 the city, is a complete mix of
●€●€ €26-€50 styles from different periods and is
therefore an architectural image of
the history of Ferrara. The side of
the cathedral facing Piazza Trento
e Trieste presents two galleries of
small columns of different shapes
and, at ground level, the Loggia dei
Mercanti, which has housed shops
since medieval times.
Another market filled the piazza
when we visited, the Antiques and
Craft Market. It takes place on the
first Saturday and Sunday of every
month (except August) offering
antiques and objects to collect,
furniture, ceramics, coins, books,
prints, etc. I love antiques and I was
so tempted by all those wonderful
pieces of furniture that I wanted to
buy them all! Luckily I managed to
resist and, to keep myself happy, I
bought an old book about the city of
Ferrara instead.
We had to leave as it was getting
late and we were ready for some
pumpkin cappellacci – the signature
primo piatto in Ferrara, which was
recommended in my guide and
is amongst Lara’s favourites as
well. They are a sort of ravioli
stuffed with a filling of pumpkin,
Parmigiano Reggiano and nutmeg,
and served with butter and sage.

34 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.48hrsFerrara.sg4.indd 34 26/09/2017 14:20pm

 We decided to stop for lunch
Al Brindisi, the oldest tavern
in the world, as certified by
Guinness. Titian, Tasso, Ariosto and
Copernicus all drank and ate here.
The astronomer lived in the little
rooms just above the osteria while he
was studying in Ferrara and it was
there that he started elaborating his
revolutionary astronomical theory.
SELECTION OF WINES
At this tavern you are spoilt for
choice with an amazing selection of
wines and extremely knowledgeable
staff who are more than happy to
walk you through the selections.
Settling on a bottle of Rosso di Fred,
The Cattedrale di San Giorgio is a complete
mix of styles from different periods
one of the unique wines created by
the owner of the osteria, we sampled
local cured meats and a large serving
of cappellacci di zucca.
Now fully recharged, we took
a stroll along the quiet cobbled
streets of the medieval area, passing
the ancient Jewish ghetto and
the picturesque Via delle Volte.
Continuing along Via Mazzini
and Via Saracena, where the River
Po once flowed, we reached our
destination, the Palazzo Schifanoia
(one of the few delizie still surviving)
and paid a visit to admire the
stunning 15th-century frescoes of
the Salone dei Mesi. The frescoes are
Cappellacci di zucca
IT156.48hrsFerrara.sg4.indd 35
a must and, still in their original
setting after centuries, they provide
a wonderful spectacle. The palace
has also a fairly extensive garden
to relax in. After a short rest lying
on the grass, we started walking
back north in the direction of the
Herculean Addition. We passed
Corso Giovecca, which separates
the medieval part of the city from
its Renaissance addition. Before The city hosts a monthly antiques market
some more walking, we obviously
had to make a stop at the patisserie
Caffè del Corso to try some Ferrara The statue of Niccolò III d’Este
specialities, especially as I could not
wait to try the Tenerina cake I had
read so much about. It definitely did
not fail expectations – it is just the
perfect cake, crunchy on the outside
but soft (tenera) and moist inside.
Walking along the magnificent
Corso Ercole I d’Este, we got to
the most spectacular crossroad
I had ever seen, the Quadrivio
degli Angeli. This is the point
where three stunning Renaissance
palaces meet: Palazzo dei Diamanti,
Palazzo Turchi di Bagno and Palazzo
Prosperi-Sacrati.
THE FIRST MODERN CITY
The crossroad is the focal point of
the Renaissance addition and the
centre of the first modern city in
Europe. Ferrara is indeed a great
Frescoes in the Salone dei Mesi, a detail of the Borso d’Este
November 2017 ITALIA! 35
26/09/2017 14:20pm
 WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL ANNUNZIATA 11 •
Piazza della Repubblica, 5
☎ +39 0532 201111
www.annunziata.it
Located just 50 yards from the castle in
a quiet location, this is a great 4-star,
modern hotel offering a fantastic breakfast
and free bicycles for your entire stay in
the city. The rooms are located in the main
building or in the historic separate building
150 yards away. Book early to request a
room with the view of the castle.
ALCHIMIA ROOM AND BREAKFAST 12
Via Borgo dei Leoni, 122
• Cafés have ample room to extend their services to the street

☎ +39 0532 1864656

www.alchimiaferrara.it example of town planning; it has Ferrara is still overlooked. This
Located in the heart of the city, in a greatly influenced the progress of hidden gem is often forgotten when
restored 15th-century building, this B&B is town planning in general in Italy people visit Emilia-Romagna and
a 3-minute walk from Palazzo dei Diamanti. over the centuries. In 1492, while it should definitely be added to
The rooms are modern with exposed Columbus was discovering the the itinerary in this region. Add it
wooden beams and a wonderful big garden.
New World, the architect Biagio to your bucket list if you have not
The hotel offers its guests free bicycles to
Rossetti was busy expanding Ferrara done so yet as it is a history-rich
visit the city.
according to a completely new urban place, packed with things to see –
LOCANDA BORGONUOVO design concept. and to do so you will need at least a
BED & BREAKFAST 13
Via Cairoli, 29
• Since 1995 UNESCO has
included the historic centre of
weekend to enjoy it fully.
You can spend an afternoon
☎ +39 0532 211100 Ferrara in the list of World Cultural cycling along the medieval walls
www.borgonuovo.com

Despite its UNESCO World Heritage

This B&B is a five-minute walk from
the castle, set in a nice and relaxing
atmosphere and is the oldest B&B in Italy.
There are only four rooms, decorated with
antiques, which take their names from the
contrade of Ferrara’s palio. The B&B offers
free bikes to its guests and a peaceful,
pretty garden.
•
IL GIARDINO FIORITO 14
Via XX Settembre, 79
☎ +39 0532 742667
www.ilgiardinofiorito.net
This is romantic and cosy B&B in the
centre of the city. The passionate owners
have managed to retrieve a section of
the ancient frescoes in the building and
brought to light the intricately decorated
wooden ceilings.
HOTEL EUROPA 15 •
Corso della Giovecca, 49
GETTING
THERE
status, Ferrara is still overlooked ➤ BY PLANE
We arrived
by train from
Heritage as a “wonderful example of whilst enjoying the quiet, tree-lined home in Venice,
a town planned in the Renaissance paths or, walk along the wide and but if you are
flying here
and still keeping its historic centre elegant Renaissance roads and then
from outside
intact”. In 1999 the UNESCO take a rest in its beautiful gardens
Italy, Bologna
World Heritage status was extended and piazze (such as Parco Massari is the nearest
to the nearby territory of the historic and Piazza Ariostea). Admire the art airport – though
Po Delta and to the delizie in the at the many galleries and museums Venice, Treviso
natural landscape of the area. and, last but not least, savour the and Verona are
Surprisingly, despite its local gastronomical specialities also all within
easy striking
UNESCO World Heritage status – without forgetting to try the
distance.
and its proximity to Bologna, Tenerina cake, of course!
A record of the Po’s high-water marks The Castello Estense and its moat

☎ +39 0532 205456

www.hoteleuropaferrara.com
This hotel is located in the centre of
Ferrara in an old elegant mansion. Recently
completely restored, you can relax in
the wonderful frescoed drawing room
whilst admiring the precious paintings.
You can also request to stay in the same
room where the famous Italian composer
Giuseppe Verdi stayed more than a century
ago. Pop in at the Caffè Europa, which is
next to the hotel, to try their magnificent
cakes and pastries such as fagottini di mele,
sfogliate and cannoncini alla crema.

36 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.48hrsFerrara.sg4.indd 36 26/09/2017 14:20pm

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 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

There are many ways to see Italy,

but surely one of the most unique
has to be by steam train

Images by Mark Nicholls

38 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.SteamTrainTuscany.sg4.indd 38 27/09/2017 10:46am

 Railway Touring Company
Steaming into
Tuscany
Mark Nicholls enjoys a nostalgic steam train tour across the Apennines from Rimini to Florence,
then to Siena, Pisa – and Pistoia, the home of Italian steam

Our route takes us from Rimini,

on the east coast, across the
mountains to Florence, and then
into the heart of Tuscany

November 2017 ITALIA! 39

IT156.SteamTrainTuscany.sg4.indd 39 26/09/2017 14:09pm

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

T
he air dances, black smoke drifting on the
breeze from the powerful steam locomotive
standing at the far end of platform one.
Its presence at Siena railway station teases
all our senses; the odour of burning coal, a
gritty flavour you can almost taste, the reassuring hiss
of pistons, and the warmth from the boiler, all fuelling
anticipation, nostalgia and excitement.
Built in 1910, Locomotive 741 is today heading
up four beautifully restored 1930s third-class coaches,
their varnished seats, curtained windows, neat luggage
racks and old engraved prints perfectly illustrating the
vintage. As we board for our ride through Tuscany, I
can’t help wondering what stories these carriages might
have heard regaled on their journeys over the decades.
The piercing shrill of a train whistle signals the
train’s imminent departure; ears prick, the guard flutters
a green flag and a huff of smoke sees us ease out of Siena
and head off into the Tuscan landscape. We are on a
week-long steam safari of Tuscany, with the latest stretch
taking us along the national rail network to Asciano,
where we peel off onto a single track that has been out
of scheduled service since 1994 but is now a well-known
route for heritage charters. Bound for Monte Antico,
the powerful 2-8-0 locomotive, with its unique side-
stack chimney, dashes through isolated, near-forgotten
stations, up a gradient to the summit, where we pause,
look down on a steep gorge and proceed.
This section of track also includes the opportunity
for me to ride the footplate. As the firebox doors slide
open and the fireman heaves shovels of coal into the
Rimini to Florence Inset right, left
to right: Tuscan
vineyards in the
boiler, I feel the blast of heat as we speed on through OVER THE MOUNTAINS TO TUSCANY spring sunshine; the
the lonely, lovely Tuscan countryside, passing through The train was chartered by the Norfolk-based Railway whistle blows as the
Monte Amiato and Sant’Angelo-Cinigiano before Touring Company for our seven-day excursion, which train enters another
drawing into Monte Antico. had started in Rimini, in Emilia-Romagna, before tunnel through the
mountains; a brief
Here, the 741 takes on water and then powers back sweeping us westwards to Florence, Siena and then to stop at Marradi
to Torrenieri-Montalcino for lunch – five courses and Pisa. It is a journey that combines the wonderful Tuscan station; the Ponte
wine in a country restaurant close to the station. Then, landscape with the region’s great cities and, of course, Vecchio – the tour
in the late afternoon, like a horse that knows it is on the the opportunity to travel on steam locomotives through allows for a day off
home leg, the engine races back to Siena. scenic, off-the-beaten-track countryside whilst enjoying to visit Florence
local cuisine at small station halts.
The Rimini-Florence stretch, a couple of days earlier,
had proven a magnificent introduction to our Italian
steam odyssey. From the moment we first stepped onto
the platform the distinct aroma of steam traction has
been our constant companion. At Rimini, the steam
engine reversed deep green coaches into platform
four, then posed dutifully for photographs before its
passengers boarded. Its carriage doors shut with heavy Main images,
ratchet clicks and we settled into our seats. clockwise from
top: Our Class 640
We waited patiently for a mainline express to
awaiting departure
clear the line before the hefty black steed pulled away, at Rimini; rolling
billowing black smoke and steam. The loco, an Italian through the Tuscan
Class 640 2-6-0, which would have been accustomed countryside on
to fast passenger haulage in its heyday, made easy work one of the easier
of the carriages and we were soon racing along the stretches of the
mainline through open countryside at 60mph. Outside route; doors
open, waiting for
the windows, strawberry pickers sat on boxes picking passengers to return
fruit while further away, olive trees lined slopes. While to their carriages for
not exactly a prancing horse, the loco had settled into a the next leg of the
steady beat as we watched the views flash past. week-long journey

40 ITALIA! November 2017

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 At Cesena the brakes shriek and the couplings
clank as we slow and then accelerate again towards
Faenza. Poppies line the sides of the tracks, homesteads
punctuate the land, vines appear on slopes and the
terrain rises with small villages and hilltop churches.
At Faenza we branch off the mainline onto the Faentina
route to Florence; here we ride alongside a departing
mainline express, with the two engines exchanging toots
and whistles as they pass.
The single track arcs through hillier country, the
rails enclosed by trees and the land is lined with olives
and vines fed by turquoise blue irrigation lagoons. The
engine driver draws frequently on the whistle as we cross
roads and paths towards Brisighella. Here, our train
pauses on a loop to let the oncoming passenger service
pass but also gives us time to explore the 16th-century
church with its atmospheric cloisters and quiet interior,
pick up a coffee and board for the next leg to Marradi.
As soon as we leave, the tone of the engine changes
in line with the terrain. We are climbing; climbing
relentlessly, crossing a gorge with fast flowing water
below, billowing smoke under a red brick bridge and
steaming through cuttings as the gradient grows steeper.
On and on the loco pants, not a thoroughbred
charging along the mainline now, but a workhorse
on an ancient but steep line hewn through the tough
countryside between Rimini and Florence.
IT156.SteamTrainTuscany.sg4.indd 41
The Faenza-Florence line was established in 1839
by Grand Duke Leopold II of Tuscany to link Italy’s
east and west coasts in Romagna and Tuscany via the
Apennines. It remains a stunning feat of engineering
with numerous tunnels, viaducts and cuttings set into
rugged landscape. As we cross into Tuscany, Marradi
looms into view, a pale yellow station where our loco
refreshes with water while we replenish with lunch
(bruschetta, pasta, grilled meats and panna cotta).
Still three hours from our destination, the trains
labour continues: heavy work up inclines, thick steam
and smoke through tunnels, and now a slower pace.
It is a reminder that while we may romanticise about
the golden age of steam, these engines were – and are
– heavy, dirty, industrial beasts. But that is part of the
adventure. Suddenly, the wheels run free and we gain
momentum as we broach a summit. At the next few
halts, passengers on regular services snap us with their
mobile phones and wave enthusiastically. Being on a
steam train always seems to turn a passenger into a
celebrity, wherever you are in the world!
At Florence we transfer to our hotel and have
the following day to explore the Tuscan capital
with a guided tour of the Duomo, Giotto’s Tower,
the Baptistery, the Ponte Vecchio, the San Lorenzo
Markets, the Church of Santa Croce, the Uffizi
Gallery and the Galleria dell’Accademia.
November 2017 ITALIA! 41
26/09/2017 13:49pm
 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Florence to Siena
AND A DETOUR TO SAN GIMIGNANO
On the morning after our day in Florence, our 640 is
released by the guard’s whistle to canter away to Empoli
on the branch line towards Siena. In the fields, vines
are ripening, fruit trees have shed their blossom and
elsewhere other acres hold plants that within a few
months will shine with sunflowers. Today, though, they
are still just green shoots.
Open carriage windows let in the whiff of the ever-
present steam, as the incessant beat of pistons powering
drive rods and six-foot wheels goes on. Soon, we are
at Poggibonsi to visit the citadel of San Gimignano, a
stopping off point on the Via Francigena for pilgrims
on their way to Rome. This is a 14th-century fortified
village of extraordinary towers – I’m told there were
once more than 70. Today, 14 of the impressive
structures remain, looking out across wonderful Tuscany.
42 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.SteamTrainTuscany.sg4.indd 42
From the highest, Torre Grossa, the panorama takes
my breath away. Looking down on the moss-covered,
amber-red roof tiles of the town, I view the other towers
Above: Like any
other train on these
lines, we must await
our signal to leave
below and then cast my eyes north, south, east and west,
seeing in each direction for mile after mile after mile.
The view is mesmerising.
San Gimignano has many narrow alleys, squares,
churches, restaurants and bars – and something of a
gelato turf war with various outlets claiming to be the
best in the world, world champion titleholders, or
simply the oldest. I opt for a double cone of hazelnut
and mango ice cream – whether it is the best in the
world or not, it certainly hits the spot.
Inset below, left
In Siena we have time to enjoy the red-brick city, to right: Leaving
wander around the Piazza del Campo – which hosts Florence; the view
the famous palio horse race twice a year, on July 2 and from the Torre
August 16 – and climb the 400 steps of the Torre del Grossa; me and my
Mangia for superb views. Passages fan off the square, one ice cream; looking
leading to the Duomo with its impressive façade and down on Piazza del
Campo, Siena
black and white striped interiors and treasures within.
26/09/2017 13:48pm
 Right and below trains, and with this support we can look at running
right: Getting ready more steam trains into more parts of Italy.”
to leave Siena; view The final rail journey sees us depart Lucca aboard
over the Sergio River
one of the last surviving 2-6-2 express passenger steam
locomotives from the Pistoia engine shed and follow
the picturesque line through the Tuscan Hills to the
Mediterranean port of La Spezia. The track negotiates
viaducts, ancient bridges, gorges; sweeps through
cuttings sided by rocky hillsides and dives into long
tunnels. This area is one of the rainiest parts of Italy and
the rain keeps the rivers full and the landscape green
and fertile. But today, the sun is shining. As we head
higher, the terrain becomes steeper, criss-crossing the
Sergio River, which is famous for trout fishing. This is a
truly beautiful part of Italy, with rocky outcrops, small
villages clinging to the hillside, and halts such as Piazza
al Serchio, where we have lunch.
Onwards we plunge into a long, gloomy tunnel,
flashing through more small stations and into Liguria.
At Aulla, we switch directions back onto the mainline
and then roll into La Spezia Centrale soon after. Late

Siena to Pisa afternoon sees a fast return to Pisa, nudging 70mph,

with the locomotive delivering a spectacularly
powerful finale to a week-long Steam Tour of Tuscany,
AND A TOUR OF TUSCANY a spectacular steam-hauled journey covering hundreds
What is so appealing about the Steam in Tuscany tour is of miles from one side of Italy to the other with an
the number of different facets it offers. There is time to irresistible whiff of nostalgia to it.
explore the famous cities we pass through, to view the
landscape between them from the carriage windows, to
dine in country restaurants at small halts, and above all
to have the thrill of travelling on steam-hauled trains.

Pistoia is the heart of Italy’s heritage steam renaissance

and has the support of the state railway company
But as well as travelling on the trains, you will
also travel by road to see some of the cultural history
of steam in this part of the world. Departing en route,
eventually, for Pisa, we detour first to Pistoia, the home
engine shed of the locomotives that have been hauling
us around.
Pistoia is the beating heart of Italy’s heritage steam
renaissance and has the support of Ferrovie dello Stato
(FS), with the state railway company having a dedicated
department overseeing steam services and provides crews
and maintenance of the locomotives. Flavio Castellan,
who escorts the Railway Touring Company trip, explains
that excursions are becoming more popular across Italy, INFORMATION
notably in Tuscany but also in Sardinia and the north of ➤ Mark travelled with the Railway Touring Company on a
the country. week-long Steam in Tuscany tour (£2,295 per person) staying in
“Lines that are no longer used for regular service four-star hotels and with meals and flights included. The Railway
Touring Company offers a range of additional heritage rail-based
trains have come back into use for tourists and special holidays exploring Italy. As well Steam in Tuscany, this year it
excursions, such as the route from Siena to Monte has run the Slovenia, Italy and the Dolomites Steam Express;
Antico,” he tells me. “The support of FS has been key and Steam over the Swiss Golden Pass and Beyond, from Milan
to the programme. Having a special train crews is to Zurich. Tours planned in Italy for 2018 include Steam in Sicily
very important and means we do not have to rely on (March 2018), Steam in Tuscany (April 2018) and Southern Italy
volunteers. At Pistoia there is the workshop for the (Sept/Oct 2018). For more information call ☎ 01553 661500 or
visit www.railwaytouring.net
locomotives where staff repair, restore and drive these

November 2017 ITALIA! 43

IT156.SteamTrainTuscany.sg4.indd 43 26/09/2017 13:48pm

 BUY ONLINE AT
anthem-publishing.com/italia-guides

IT156.VeniceGuideAdWhiteBorder.sg1.indd 44 25/09/2017 11:16am

 FA S T C U LT U R E

Unmasking
the Comedians
The influence Carlo Goldoni had on Italian theatre is
immeasurable, and his museum is not to be missed
November 2017 ITALIA! 45

IT156.FastCulture.sg4.indd 45 26/09/2017 13:35pm

 FA S T C U LT U R E

T
he palazzo is hard to find. The land
entrance is in an alley so narrow
that you must consider the width
of your umbrella before venturing
there in the rain. The water entrance
is easier to locate, on the tiny Rio de San Tomà
canal in Venice, but you’ll need a gondola. The
ground floor is the portego, a traditional Venetian
entry hall, with worn terracotta paving leading
to an old, three-arched stone staircase. You feel
the early 15th-century origins of the house here;
but at the top of the stairs, at the piano nobile, you
enter the 18th century, and the world of Italy’s
greatest comic playwright, Carlo Goldoni.
Goldoni was born here in 1707. In one room
The water entrance of the
off the grand reception hall, there is the figure Carlo Goldoni Museum
of a small child, fashioned perhaps from plaster.
He stands just below the stage of a large puppet
theatre, looking up at the figures in the limelight: The ground-floor portego, or
Pantalone, Brighella, Truffaldino, Smeraldina, Il entrance hall, of the palazzo
Dottore, and Clarice. They are all characters from
Goldoni’s most famous play, Il Servitore di Due
Padroni – The Servant of Two Masters.
In his memoirs, written late in life, Goldoni
says that when he was small, his father Giulio
made a puppet theatre for him in this house,
and inspired his lifelong passion for the stage.
Some academics, perversely preferring fact over
a good story, have questioned his recollection.
Happily, the curators of the Casa di Carlo Goldoni
museum installed this diorama anyway, (with
a genuine 18th-century proscenium and antique
puppets), citing the undoubted ‘symbolic’
truth it represents.
However indulgent he may have been,
Carlo’s father still insisted on a respectable career.
Although Carlo was an unruly student who was
expelled from school at least once, and on another
occasion fled school with a troupe of itinerant
actors, he finally took a law degree at Padua. His
legal ability and geniality gained him success, and
he even became the Genoese Consul in Venice.
But the theatre called and, at the age of twenty-
seven, he jettisoned his career in law and joined Il Giocatore – the Gambler vignette
the San Samuele Theatre in Venice, composing
comic pieces.
Before Goldoni’s career changed everything
(which it did), the two most popular genres of
Italian theatre were melodramma and Commedia
dell’Arte. Melodramma, (as distinct from the
English word ‘melodrama’), was musical drama
– opera, in fact. Commedia dell’Arte performances
were comedies using stock characters and
unscripted, sketched-out plots, presented by
actors skilled in improvisation. Many actors wore
masks, which identified the character, or type of
character, they represented. Goldoni, who was not
a man to underestimate his talents, soon tired of
sketching out the threadbare plots with which
the actors were comfortable, and began to write
fully scripted plays. Since they were consistently

46 ITALIA! November 2017

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Images by Patricia Gartman
The puppet theatre, with characters
from The Servant of Two Masters
The luncheon table from the
play Avenging Wrongs
Goldoni’s statue in Campo
San Bartolomeo
IT156.FastCulture.sg4.indd 47
funnier than the sketch pieces, they became quite
popular, to the chagrin of the improvisers. Then
he took a shocking step: he suggested dispensing
with the time-honoured masks of comedy as well!
In his memoirs, Goldoni identified what
he called the four essential masks of Italian
Commedia: “The basis of the comic humour is
always Pantaloon, a Venetian merchant; the
Doctor, a Bolognese jurisconsult (a legal expert);
and Brighella and Harlequin, Bergamask valets.”
(Bergamask means “from Bergamo”.)
Other characters, especially females, were not
masked. Goldoni acknowledged the skill of the
traditional players, but insisted: “The actor must
in our days possess a soul; and the soul under a
mask is like a fire under ashes. These were the
reasons which induced me to endeavour the
reform of the Italian theatre; and to supply the
place of farces with comedies.”
And supply comedies he did: one hundred and
thirty-seven comic plays, sixteen tragicomedies,
libretti for forty-nine comic operas, and many
more miscellaneous pieces. This astonishing
output of brilliant work did indeed set Italian
theatre on a new course: that of portraying
peoples’ lives and manners believably.
The delightful statue of Goldoni in Campo
San Bartolomeo depicts a cheerful man-about-
town, and his ability to acquire friends and
patrons wherever he went attests to his affability.
He was persuaded to move to Paris in 1762, to
manage the Théâtre Italien. When that job proved
uncongenial, he somehow became the Italian
tutor to Marie Adélaïde, daughter of Louis XV, at
Versailles; and when he lost the sight of his left
eye, he was given a royal pension.
The late 18th century, however, was not the
best of times to be a client of the royal family
of France. The French revolution ended his
pension, and he died nearly penniless in 1793.
Even after death, though, he found an unexpected
friend. The poet André Chénier convinced the
revolutionary convention to restore Goldoni’s
pension to his wife of many years: “She is old,”
pleaded Chénier, “and her husband has left her
no heritage save his illustrious name, his virtues,
and his poverty.”
Part of Goldoni’s heritage to us is preserved
in the small, charming palazzo down a narrow
alley along the Rio de San Tomà canal in Venice.
His plays are there, too: maskless, featureless
mannequins form ghostly vignettes of famous
scenes. If you love theatre, it’s worth the search,
even in the rain.
ABOUT THE WRITER
JOE GARTMAN writes about travel,
history and culture, and divides his time
between the southwest US and Europe.
Learn more at www.joegartman.com
November 2017 ITALIA! 47
26/09/2017 13:35pm
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 I TA L I A ! S T Y L E

The view that greets you when

you come into Amalfi by sea

INTO THE BLUEExplore the panoramic splendour of the Amalfi Coast and enjoy a very
particular style of comfort and hospitality at elegant Hotel Santa Caterina

A vivid array of The Cloister of

ceramic tiles Paradise

Down by the
quay in Amalfi

50 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.Amalfi.sg5.indd 50 28/09/2017 15:46pm

 I TA L I A ! S T Y L E

T
he Amalfi Coast…
The tiled entrance
So adored for its to the Duomo
awesome natural beauty
and immortalised in 11th-century bronze
art, literature (even doors to the Duomo
milk chocolate commercials), this
corner of Italy will be forever in the
collective conscious: even if you’ve
never been, you feel like it’s a place
you know well. So how to appreciate
a location so ‘familiar? Well, it’s a
state of mind and a challenge every The imposing façade
curious traveller takes on gladly. of Amalfi’s Duomo
“The only true voyage of
discovery would not be to go and see Floor tiles at Hotel
new lands but to have other eyes,” Santa Caterina
opined Marcel Proust, and with this
advice firmly in mind, I was on my
way to Amalfi town to stay for a few
days at the Hotel Santa Caterina
(find out more about the hotel
overleaf), just outside the town.
Perched on the edge of the
Amalfi Coast road, the hotel is a
superb base for exploring the area,
Palms in the
a real vantage point for gazing out Cloister of Paradise
over the bay. And it’s the blue that
hits you between your ‘other’ eyes:
the arc of vast open sky sitting on an
immense body of water, the colour is The Duchess
ever-changing demanding ever more of Amalfi
words to describe its nuances. met her
The sky takes on the mood of fate here
the water and the other way around,
transforming from an eye-searing
cyan on the clear, sunlit days right
through to an stormy green-blue so
murky it looks almost brown. Find a
quiet spot and turn your eyes to the
horizon for a few hours and it’ll calm
even the most frantic mindset.
Lemon-inpsired
VIEW FROM THE WATER gifts to take home
But there’s even more to appreciate
if you take a boat trip from Amalfi
town and follow the sinuous line of
this captivating coastline. As the
Photography by Amanda Robinson unless otherwise stated

boat scuds towards Positano just

round the edge of the bay, marvel at
just how the clusters of houses stay The vaulted ceiling
put on the craggy cliffs. Positano of the Duomo
itself is a pastel cascade of small
buildings tumbling down towards Ancient fresco in Local fishermen depicted
the water’s edge. It’s an achingly the Duomo in handpainted tiles
pretty town, almost fairytale in
appearance, and so beloved of
visitors now it’s hard to imagine
that in the early 1800s there were
barely 20 families here eking out
a living from the sea. During

November 2017 ITALIA! 51

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 I TA L I A ! S T Y L E
A FAMILY AFFAIR AT HOTEL SANTA CATERINA
Image © Santa Caterina hotel
This elegant hotel above
its own lemon groves
Pulling up outside the porticoed entrance of
Hotel Santa Caterina is like stepping back into
an elegant period drama. You are greeted with
a smile and your baggage is deftly whisked
away while you are welcomed into the cool of
the brightly tiled reception room.
No slouch when it comes to creating a
good impression, Hotel Santa Caterina is
today the cumulative result of the care and
attention to detail lavished upon it by four
generations of the same family. The original
building was built in the 1880s by Giuseppe
Gambardella, whose descendants run it today.
Giuseppe’s son redesigned the building in
1904 and opened it as a hotel with a mere
six rooms; it has, over the intervening years,
expanded to 67 bedrooms and suites.
Situated on the edge of Amalfi town (just
a few minutes down the road), the crescent of
the hotel’s main façade makes a spectacular
setting, with its elegant Edwardian-style
proportions, set back just far enough from
Image © Santa Caterina hotel
Private infinity pool
at the hotel
52 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.Amalfi.sg5.indd 52
Impressive vista from
the hotel lounge
Image © Santa Caterina hotel
the winding main road. Walk through the cool
tiled interior to the rear of the hotel, where
you will be rewarded by an uninterrupted
panorama of the coastline that will take your
breath away. This is where sunny verandahs
and pergolas overlook the stack of terraced
gardens and citrus groves which snake right
down the side of the steep slope to the hotel’s
private Beach Club. And if you’re in too much
of a rush to stroll down to sea level, there is
a glass lift to swoop you right down there.
Here you will find a salt water swimming pool,
sunbathing decks, the hotel’s gym and a café-
bar – it’s a real sun trap right on the edge of
the waves.
The hotel runs its own shuttle bus down to
Amalfi if you want to explore – the practical
option, as the road is walkable but busy,
and it is extremely difficult to find a parking
space even if you do have a car. Ravello (30
minutes by bus), Positano and Capri (both 40
minutes by ferry) are within easy reach too,
The iconic
insalata caprese
Image © Santa Caterina hotel
The hotel’s Beach Club
or you could just stay a while and drink in
the old-fashioned courteous hospitality that
will envelop you during your stay here. The
service is so special: the natural result of the
family-run environment where many of the
staff are long-standing and devoted to the
well-being of each and every guest. Pino, the
head waiter, has been looking after tables for
thirty years and will take you under his wing.
Discretion and hospitality delivered with
genuine warmth – nothing’s too much trouble.
Interiors are light and white, furnished
with family antiques and art with brighter
hues in the painted tiles and soft furnishings.
The restful bedrooms have Bvlgari goodies in
luxurious bathrooms, high ceilings, and doors
opening out onto wide terraces overlooking
that deep blue sea. Delicious food is served
in the bright and airy dining room – it’s a
menu of classics, all freshly prepared with
love and served with a smile. What more could
you ask for? www.hotelsantacaterina.it
Luxurious villa lounge
Image © Santa Caterina hotel
28/09/2017 15:46pm
 World War II, it opened its doors
to Allied officers posted here for
rest and recuperation, and one can
only imagine what balm it was
to their spirits to be in a place as
beautiful as this. American writer
John Steinbeck was entranced by
Early morning on
Amalfi beach
the town when he visited in 1953,
praising it as “a dream place that
Floral tiling detail isn’t quite real when you are there
at the hotel and becomes beckoningly real after
you have gone.”
BACK ON DRY LAND
Returning to Amalfi by boat, you
get the measure of a town that’s
clearly got something about it. Not
as picturesque as Positano perhaps,
but the creamy stone buildings,
the wide streets and piazze hint at a
powerful past and a vibrant present
community. At the heart of the
Republic of Amalfi in the Middle
Ornate marble
Ages, there’s an eclectic mix of
in the Duomo
stylistic influences running through
Amalfi’s architecture: thanks to
Misty horizons
from the hotel its location, this area has always
been outward facing, trading with
Byzantines and Arabs, welcoming
strangers to its shores for centuries.
There are fine beaches here,
quiet in the early morning light,
but very popular in the summer of
course, with clear, crystal waters.
At the heart of the town is
the Cathedral of St Andrew, often
referred to simply as the Duomo.
Ascend the broad, steep stairway
and look up to meet the gaze of the
disciples in the porticoed fresco at
the centre of the façade, as so many
pilgrims and visitors have done
before. Before you enter, glance up
at the round tower built into the
steep slopes above the town. This
forbidding place is said to have
been the inspiration for the tragic
tale of The Duchess of Malfi by John
Webster. Also behind the Duomo is
the Valley of the Mills, where you’ll
see relics of the water wheels used
Colourful local
in paper making.
ceramics in Amalfi Back into the town then, to
wander through the medieval
Positano from alleyways behind the main piazza
the sea (once a refuge from pirates), or
simply enjoy the bustle of Amalfi
from a different vantage point,
comfortably ensconced al fresco,
with an espresso at your elbow, and
your “other eyes” peeled.
IT156.Amalfi.sg5.indd 53
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
ST ANDREW’S BASILICA
Via Duca Mansone I
☎ +39 089 873558
The Duomo, as it is known, was built in
1100 and houses the magnificent Crypt of
St Andrew and the 13th-century Cloister of
Paradise, which takes you to the Basilica
of the Crucifix, the original church, which
dates to 596AD. Saint Andrew is the patron
saint of Amalfi and is celebrated on his
feast day, November the 30th. €3 entry.
MUSEO DELLA CARTA
Via delle Cartiere, 23
☎ +39 089 830 4561
www.museodellacarta.it
The Museum of Paper will give you a really
good insight into the history of Amalfi.
Open every day from the beginning of
March to the end of October; out of season,
opening times vary.
PASTICCERIA ANDREA PANSA
Piazza Duomo, 40
☎ +39 089 871065
www.pasticceriapansa.it
Award-winning bakery in the heart of
Amalfi. Amazing cakes and handmade
chocolates. Great for people watching.
AMALFI MARKET DAY
This takes place every Wednesday (not
August) in the parking area behind the
port. It sells everything from local produce
to clothes and souvenirs to take home.
ATRANI
If you have time, Atrani is just a brief stroll
over from Amalfi and is a very charming
little village. It actually holds the record for
being the smallest town in Italy based on
surface area!
INFORMATION
➤ HOTEL SANTA CATERINA
Via SS Amalfitana, 9, Amalfi
☎ +39 089 871 012
www.hotelsantacaterina.it
The hotel closes in November for the
winter and will open again in March.
Rooms from £336 per night.
GETTING THERE
➤ BY PLANE AND CAR
Naples is the nearest airport, about 75
minutes (70km) away by car. BA and
budget airlines fly direct to Naples
from many UK airports. To reach Hotel
Santa Caterina, car hire is advisable.
Alternatively, transfers are available
through the hotel.
November 2017 ITALIA! 53
28/09/2017 15:47pm
 PA S T I TA L I A !

BRISIGHELLA
An unusual clock tower overlooks the land surrounding a small town in the province of Ravenna…

W
hat is now the Torre dell’Orologio of Brisighella was originally built in 1290 under
the orders of the condottiero Maghinardo Pagani as part of the town’s (nominally)
defensive fortifications. Damaged and reconstructed several times, the tower we
see today was completed in 1850, which was when the clock was added. The
clock is curious (though not unique) in that it features a six-hour face. This is a
late construction date for a six-hour clock but they were common until the late Renaissance period. The
six-hour division appears to originate in the tradition of dividing the day according to prayer times.
Image © iStock

54 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.PastItalia.sg4.indd 54 26/09/2017 13:32pm

 November 2017 ITALIA! 55

IT156.PastItalia.sg4.indd 55 26/09/2017 13:32pm

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IT156.DigitalEditions.sg1.indd 56 27/09/2017 15:11pm

 EatITALIA!
In this issue, family dishes from Sicily, new ideas for
panini, quick seasonal recipes, plus the best antipasti
spreads and rich red Sicilian wines

CookITALIA!
Crumbs!
Tasty new ways with panini,
bruschetta and crostini

p58
In Season
What to eat in November, plus
four dishes to cook at home

p62
A Family Affair
Inspired recipes from Sicily by
Rachel Roddy

p70

BuyITALIA!
Antipasti spreads and sauces

p68

DrinkITALIA!
Six of the best Sicilian reds
20 pages
of fabulouds p75
Italian foo
Image © iStock

and drink

November 2017 ITALIA! 57

IT156.FoodSectionOpener.sg5.indd 57 26/09/2017 16:55pm

 C O O K I TA L I A !

Crumbs!
For a quick snack or a light lunch, try some Panini,
Bruschetta & Crostini – so easy, so typically Italian

Pancetta, Gorgonzola and apple panini

Panini con pancetta, gorgonzola a mele
➤ MAKES 2 ➤ PREPARATION 10 minutes ➤ COOKING 10 minutes

• 1 ciabatta loaf
• vegetable oil, for frying and brushing
• 6 slices pancetta
• 2 tsp balsamic vinegar
• sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper
• ½ tart green apple, thinly sliced
• a small handful of rocket
• 80g Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
• 80g Taleggio or fontina cheese, sliced
1 Preheat a panini press. Cut the top and
bottom off the ciabatta so that it is
about 3cm high. Save the crusts for
another use. Slice the ciabatta open
lengthways and then cut in half.
2 Add a little oil to a frying pan and
fry the pancetta until crisp. Drain on
paper towels.
3 Drizzle the ciabatta with balsamic
vinegar, season with salt and pepper.
4 Layer the fillings in the sandwiches,
starting with the pancetta, followed by
the apple and rocket, and finishing with
the cheeses.
5 Brush both sides of the panini with oil
and toast in the preheated panini press
for 3 minutes, or according to the
manufacturer’s instructions. The bread
should be golden brown and the filling
warmed through.

58 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.PaniniCrostini.sg4.indd 58 26/09/2017 12:18pm

 Pear, pecorino and pea crostini
Crostini con pere, pecorino e piselli
➤ MAKES 6 ➤ PREPARATION 15 minutes ➤ BAKING 10 minutes

• 1 Italian sfilatino or thin French
baguette, sliced into thin rounds
• 250g shelled fresh or frozen peas
• extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing
and moistening
• sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper
• freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 small ripe pear
• a drop of balsamic or sherry vinegar
• 125g fresh young pecorino or
Parmesan cheese, diced
1 Preheat the oven to 190ºC/Gas Mark 5. 4 Core and finely chop the pear. Mix with
To make the crostini, brush both sides of a drop of balsamic or sherry vinegar,
each slice of bread with olive oil and then add the cheese and mix well.
spread out on a baking sheet. Bake for 5 Spread the crostini with a mound of pea
about 10 minutes until crisp and golden. purée and top with a spoonful of the
2 Meanwhile, blanch the peas in boiling pear and cheese mixture. Serve
water for 3 minutes if they are fresh, or immediately.
2 minutes if they are frozen. Drain them,
refresh in cold water and drain again.
3 Purée the peas in a food processor or
blender, moistening with a little olive
oil. Season with salt, pepper and freshly
grated nutmeg.

Puréeing the peas gives a sweet, earthy base on which

to sprinkle the combination of salty, nutty pecorino and
fruity pears tossed in balsamic vinegar for sharpness
Images © Ryland Peters & Small

November 2017 ITALIA! 59

IT156.PaniniCrostini.sg4.indd 59 26/09/2017 12:18pm

 C O O K I TA L I A !
Tomato and garlic bruschetta
Fettunta
➤ MAKES 4 ➤ PREPARATION 5 minutes ➤ COOKING 5 minutes
• 4 large, very ripe tomatoes
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 thick slices country bread, preferably
sourdough
• 2 garlic cloves, halved
• extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
60 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.PaniniCrostini.sg4.indd 60
1 Roughly chop the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper.
2 To make the bruschetta, grill, toast or pan-grill the bread on
both sides until lightly charred or toasted. Rub the top side of
each slice with the cut garlic, then drizzle with olive oil.
3 Spoon the tomatoes over the bruschetta and drizzle with more
olive oil. Eat immediately with your fingers!
A fettunta is a slice of bread
grilled over hot coals, rubbed with
garlic and drizzled with olive oil.
Traditionally, the ripe tomato is
crushed in your hand.
26/09/2017 12:18pm
 Raspberry and mascarpone brioche panini These recipes are

Panini di brioche con lamponi e mascarpone taken from Panini,

Bruschetta &
Crostini, published
➤ MAKES 2 ➤ PREPARATION 5 minutes ➤ COOKING 5 minutes by Ryland Peters &
Small. RRP £14.99.
• 4 thick slices brioche bread 1 Spread two slices of the bread with the mascarpone cheese. Place the raspberries Photography
• 4 tbsp mascarpone on top and sprinkle with the sugar. Top both sandwiches with the second slice. © Ryland Peters
• 2 handfuls of raspberries 2 Brush both sides of the Panini with a little oil and toast in the preheated panini & Small
• 2 tsp Demerara sugar press for 2 minutes, or according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The bread
• vegetable oil, for brushing should be golden brown and the filling warmed through.

Try these with

thin slices of fresh
strawberries instead
of raspberries

November 2017 ITALIA! 61

IT156.PaniniCrostini.sg4.indd 61 26/09/2017 12:18pm

 C O O K I TA L I A !

IN SEASON
November
Mario Matassa suggests four recipes for late autumn, using
seasonal produce that is at its best right now…
Images and recipes © Mario Matassa

62 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.InSeason.sg4.indd 62 26/09/2017 12:30pm

 WHAT’S IN SEASON
Discover what fresh ingredients are in
season this month, then see over the page
to turn them into delicious dishes…

POTATOES PATATE
We often think of potatoes as an early summer crop, planted at Easter and,
depending on the variety, ready to eat at some point over the summer, but
it is perfectly possible, even in Britain, to make a second planting in late
summer and have fresh new potatoes starting to come up in November.
Indeed, some say that the late autumn potato harvest is the best of them all.

CHARD BIETOLA
Chard is a relation of the beetroot, but is grown for its thick, lush stems and
green leaves rather than its root. A great source of vitamins, it is a staple
in vegetable boxes at this time of year and usually comes with either red
or white stalks, though other colours – yellow, pink and cream – are also
common. These other colours do look pretty but the white stalks are the most
flavoursome. To prepare them at their simplest, treat the stalks like asparagus:
boil until tender, then serve with a knob of butter melted over the top.

ONIONS, CARROTS AND CELERY CIPOLLE, CAROTE E SEDANO

Onions, carrots and celery are the three ingredients used in a typical soffritto,
which forms the base of countless dishes in Italy at this time of year. All three
are in season now. Onions, already harvested, you will see hanging in strings
in a cool corner of farmhouses across Italy; carrots are quite happily stored
where they are: in the ground – perhaps with a protective covering of straw if
there is a cold snap; and celery really doesn’t like heat at all and is considered
in Italy to be very much a cool season crop.

PEARS PERE
The humble pear used to be employed much more widely than it is today, in
both sweet and savoury dishes and often partnered with meat. Italy is one
of the biggest producers of pears in the world – and by far the biggest in
Europe – and popular dishes today include pears cooked in red wine, or simply
sprinkled with lemon zest and sugar. The fruit also makes a great post-dessert
treat paired with Gorgonzola and walnuts, which are also in season now.

LETTUCE LATTUGA
Lettuce is another salad vegetable that doesn’t like growing in hot conditions.
It might look good, but summer-grown lettuce can be a little bitter and, in
Italy at least, you’ll often find it used more in the cooler months.

PUMPKIN ZUCCA
The pumpkin is one of the most widely used vegetables in Italy. In Piedmont it
is cooked whole and then the flesh is scooped out, while in Veneto it is eaten
alongside pickles, and in Lombardy it is added to risotto. An unusual variation
is the spaghetti pumpkin, whose insides resemble spaghetti when cooked. It’s
a very useful vegetable at this time of year as it will keep fresh for up to a
PORCINI PORCINI month if the skin is not broken and the stalk has not been cut too short. Don’t
Italians love mushrooms, and autumn is when they set out forget to make use of the seeds by toasting them.
to forage for them in the woods and fields. The porcino (the
‘penny bun’) is highly prized as it grows only in the wild and
is unusual in that it retains its creamy colour after cooking.
It is also unrivalled in taste and texture. The larger caps are
Also in season…
best grilled, or fried in butter with a little garlic, parsley ALMONDS MANDORLE PHEASANT FAGIANO
and a squeeze of lemon to make funghi trifolati. The smaller CHESTNUTS CASTAGNE TRUFFLES TARTUFI
varieties of porcini can be thinly sliced and dressed with CHICORY CICORIA TURNIP RAPA
lemon juice and olive oil to make a salad. FENNEL FINOCCHIO WALNUTS NOCI

November 2017 ITALIA! 63

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 C O O K I TA L I A !

IN SEASON
Recipes

Potato gnocchi with porcini mushrooms

Gnocchi di patate con funghi porcini
➤ SERVES 2-3 • 300g fresh porcini mushrooms
➤ PREPARATION • 50g unsalted butter
10 minutes • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
➤ COOKING • 1 garlic clove, peeled, crushed
10 minutes • 500g ready-made potato gnocchi
• a bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Wipe the porcini mushrooms clean with a damp cloth,
then chop them into 5mm slices. Next, heat the butter
and oil in a heavy-based frying pan and add the crushed
garlic and mushrooms. Gently fry for about 8 minutes.
2 In the meantime, bring a large saucepan of salted water
to the boil. Once the water is boiling vigorously, add the
gnocchi and give them a quick stir. When they rise to the
surface, remove with a slotted spoon and add to the pan
with the mushrooms.
3 Add a few tablespoons of finely chopped parsley, season,
then give the gnocchi a final stir to make sure they are
evenly coated. Serve immediately.

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 Tuscan chard soup
Zuppa di bietole
➤ SERVES 4 • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
➤ PREPARATION • 1 onion, peeled, finely chopped
15 minutes • 1 carrot, peeled, finely chopped
➤ COOKING • 2 celery stalks, finely chopped
35 minutes • 1.5 litres of vegetable stock
• 300g cannellini beans
• 300g chard, roughly chopped
• 2 tomatoes, skins removed, flesh roughly chopped
• salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 slices of rustic bread, toasted
IT156.InSeason.sg4.indd 65
1 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan, then add the onion,
carrot and celery, and fry the vegetables until softened.
2 Add the vegetable stock and cannellini beans to the pan
along with the chard and tomatoes. Cook gently for
20-25 minutes, until the chard is soft and all the flavours
have combined well. Check for seasoning and add more
salt and pepper, if necessary.
3 To serve, place the toasted bread in four bowls and ladle
the soup over the top.
TIP Other seasonal greens work equally well in this soup,
such as cavolo nero or spinach
November 2017 ITALIA! 65
26/09/2017 12:32pm
 C O O K I TA L I A !

IN SEASON
Recipes

Warm pear and goats’ cheese salad

Insalata di pere e caprino
➤ SERVES 4 • 1 head of lettuce 2 Remove the cores from the pears, then cut each pear into
➤ PREPARATION • 150g thinly sliced pancetta eight pieces. Fry the segments with a small knob of
10 minutes • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil butter for 1-2 minutes on each side in the same frying
➤ COOKING • 2 large firm but ripe pears pan as you used for the pancetta.
10 minutes • a knob of unsalted butter 3 To arrange the salad, crumble the goats’ cheese into the
• 200g crumbly goats’ cheese large bowl with the lettuce, roughly break the pancetta
• 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar into pieces and scatter over the top of the lettuce, then
• salt and freshly ground black pepper place the pears on top.
4 Make a dressing by mixing the olive oil and balsamic
1 Tear the lettuce into bite-sized pieces, then place in a vinegar together and trickle this over the salad. Season,
large bowl. Next, fry the pancetta in a hot pan with a toss well, and serve while lukewarm with plenty of crusty
little oil, until crispy, then set aside to drain on a piece bread to soak up the juices.
of kitchen paper.

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 Pumpkin biscuits
Biscotti di zucca
➤ MAKES • 400g pumpkin, seeds removed, peeled, and flesh cut 2 Next, sift the flour into a large bowl and add the egg
about 35 into chunks yolks, butter, caster sugar and pumpkin. Mix everything
➤ PREPARATION • 400g self-raising flour together well with a wooden spoon.
25 minutes • 2 free-range egg yolks 3 Place tablespoons of the mixture, spaced well apart, onto
➤ BAKING • 150g unsalted butter, softened several greased baking sheets. Brush the tops of the
25 minutes • 180g caster sugar biscuits with egg white, then transfer the biscuits to the
• 1 free-range egg white, beaten oven and bake for around 20-25 minutes.
4 Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool
1 Preheat the oven to 170°C/Gas Mark 3. Begin by slightly. Serve warm or store in an airtight container.
steaming the pumpkin in a saucepan, until tender. When
cooked, mash the flesh well using either a potato masher
or the back of a fork. Set the mixture aside and leave to
cool slightly.

November 2017 ITALIA! 67

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 B U Y I TA L I A !

ANTIPASTI
SPREADS
From the classic to the rustic, there is an amazing array
of savoury jarred spreads to serve as toppings for your
antipasti – we taste seven to find our favourite

T
he tradition of antipasti is a very social one: a colourful and
flavoursome selection of starters to welcome guests to your table,
or at a restaurant to gather everyone together, and ultimately to
whet the appetite before the main event. Grazing on these small
bites of food is such a pleasant way to relax and break the ice, which is why
it is a practice we wholeheartedly endorse here at Italia!. We’re looking this 1
month at a varied range of antipasti spreads and pastes that sit well atop
crisp crostini or chunky bruschette. The combination of textures and colours
is really quite enticing, as we’re sure you’ll agree.
2

EDITOR’S
CHOICE
AGNONI CREMA
CARCIOFI E
PEPERONI
From SousChef
www.souschef.co.uk
Price £4.50 for 156ml
We might be a bit biased
on this one, as here in
the UK artichokes are
so difficult to get hold
of, so any product that
includes them as an
ingredient definitely gets
our attention! This Agnoni
Artichoke and Pepper Cream
was an instant hit with 1 CARLUCCIO’S 2 LA GIALLA DI
the team. Soft and light, CREMA DI OLIVE ZUCCA CON TARTUFO
it is packed with a fresh NERE TOSCOBOSCO
artichoke flavour while the From Carluccio’s From Bellavita
sweet pepper is more of a www.carluccios.com www.bellavitashop.co.uk
note running through the Price £4.25 for 200g Price £6.80 for 90g
background. Husband and wife DITOR This rich black olive paste Golden-yellow, we were
NOV
LIA! E

Neno and Nena Agnoni started

’S CHO

hails from Calabria and is surprised at how runny this

their business in the 1960s, and it is
still a family business. They bought a farm just outside their home
2017 enhanced with the addition pumpkin and truffle sauce
ICE ITA of capers. Salty and tangy, was. You could see the black
town of Cori, in Lazio, and grow the produce that goes into the with herby notes from truffle flecks but the flavour
traditional Italian preserves and spreads they make today. Their oregano, it spreads well and was quite subtle with just a
suggestion is rubbing slices of toasted bread with a halved garlic clove, then spreading has a chilli kick at the end. hint of amaretti.
them with the artichoke cream, and finishing with slices of fresh tomato and cracked
black pepper. And who are we to argue with that? VERDICT ★★★★ VERDICT ★★
If you like tapenade, More a sauce in
VERDICT ★★★★★ you will love this Italian consistency, this would
Rich and creamy, a little of this silky artichoke pepper cream with its gorgeous crostini spread. Try it work best drizzled over
colour goes a long way. This moreish indulgence keeps well in the fridge too. stirred into pasta sauces to vegetables rather than
enrich their flavour. spread on bruschetta.

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 3 4
3 VORREI
LA BUMBA
From Vorrei
www.vorrei.co.uk
Price £5.50 for 212g
Wrapped in flaming brown
paper, you get the idea
before you’ve opened the jar.
Mixed veg with 55 per cent
Calabrian chilli pepper means
this is hot, hot, hot! Moreish
– if your tastebuds are up to
the La Bumba challenge.
VERDICT ★★★
Red for danger is
absolutely right in this
case! Heaven on crostini
for chilli lovers, try as a
fiery pizza topping too.
IT156.BuyItalia.sg5.indd 69
4 BELLAVITA
CAPONATA DI MELE
From Bellavita
www.bellavitashop.co.uk
Price £6.30 for 200g
A twist on Sicilian caponata,
we were struck by the lovely
chunky texture and the fresh
‘homemade’ flavour. The
apple lends an acidic/sweet
tang to the mix, which we
spooned rather than spread
onto our crostini.
VERDICT ★★★★
Using apple instead of
aubergine might sound
odd, but it’s a lighter
version of caponata that
really works.
5 CARLUCCIO’S
CHILLI AND PORK
SALAME ’NDUJA
From Carluccio’s
www.carluccios.com
Price £4.95 for 180g
This popular Calabrian
delicacy of pork and chilli is
blended with spices in a firm
paste. It’s rich, and spreads
well on warm toasted bread.
We loved its slow-burning
chilli flavour and meatiness.
VERDICT ★★★
Keep a jar handy in the
fridge at all times to
pep up antipasti and
pasta dishes. It’ll go with
vegetable or meat sauces.
6
6 SUN-DRIED
TOMATO, ALMOND
& PISTACHIO PESTO
From Vorrei
www.vorrei.co.uk
Price £5.50 for 180g
This soft blend of sun-dried
tomatoes is brimming with
flavour and the texture of
nutty pieces of pistachio and
almond that run through it.
We loved it on crostini topped
with creamy soft cheese.
VERDICT ★★★
Sunny in colour and
flavour, you can use
this pungent sauce in so
many different dishes
throughout your menu.
November 2017 ITALIA! 69
28/09/2017 10:46am
 C O O K I TA L I A !

Family kitchen Rachel Roddy

shares the home
cooking of Sicily
with this trio
Image © Elena Heatherwick

of deliciously
authentic dishes

Pasta with aubergine

Pasta con le melanzane
➤ SERVES 4 ➤ PREPARATION 15 minutes ➤ COOKING 30 minutes

I
n Catania this is called pasta alla Norma in honour moment last year when I made this with one of the jars

of the operatic masterpiece by Catania’s favourite
son, Vincenzo Bellini. Others call it spaghetti alla
coppola (spaghetti with a cap on). My Vincenzo
calls it pasta con le melanzane, and so do I. It is a
favourite (along with all the other favourites), especially
in the summer, when it is made with vegetables that
are full of sun. It can be a winter dish too, with tinned
tomatoes and an unseasonal aubergine. It was a good
Two Kitchens: Family Recipes from Sicily and Rome © Rachel Roddy, published by Headline, photography by Nick Seaton and Rachel Roddy
of tomatoes I had bottled the previous summer. I was
aware, a bit embarrassed even, of my meagre output
compared with nonna Sara’s extraordinary bottlings.
Vincenzo, however, is moved by my efforts. This is his
history, taken from one kitchen to another, a single taste
that calls up the memory of his grandmother and home
in Gela. Tradition demands spaghetti for Norma, but we
often use thick tubes of ridged rigatoni.

• 2 large aubergines
• olive or groundnut oil, for frying
• 1kg fresh tomatoes or 500g passata
• 2 garlic cloves
• a small handful of basil
• 1 tsp sugar (if you need it)
• 500g pasta, such as spaghetti, rigatoni,
casarecce, mezze, maniche or penne
• grated salt
• 200g salted ricotta
1 Peel strips from the aubergine so that
they are striped, then cut them into 5mm
slices. If you’re going to salt them, do it
now; otherwise just dry them with a clean
tea towel. Heat about 5cm oil in a frying
pan and fry the slices, turning them
halfway, until they are golden brown on
both sides, then drain very well on
kitchen paper. Set the slices aside, ideally
near the stove so they keep warm-ish.
2 Meanwhile, bring a large pan of water to
the boil. If using fresh ones, peel the
tomatoes by plunging them into boiling
water for 1 minute, then lift them out
with a slotted spoon and cool under cold
water, at which point the skins should
slip away. Roughly chop the tomatoes,
removing the seeds if you wish (I don’t).
3 Crush the garlic cloves with the back of a
knife so that they split but remain whole.
Warm some more oil in a frying pan and
add the garlic. Once the garlic is fragrant
and lightly gold, remove it from the pan,
add the fresh tomatoes (or passata) and
cook until they collapse into a sauce. At
this point you can pass the tomatoes
through a food mill back into the pan, or
if you’re happy with the texture, simply
tear in most of the basil, add the sugar if
you think the sauce is too sharp, and a
good pinch of salt.
4 Bring the pan of tomato water back to the
boil, add salt, stir well and add the pasta.
Cook it until al dente, then drain it. Mix
the pasta with the sauce and a handful of
salted ricotta, then divide it between
bowls, top with several slices of
aubergine, a little more ricotta and a
couple more basil leaves. Pass around the
remaining aubergine slices and cheese so
that people can help themselves.

This is a favourite, especially in summer, but it can be a winter dish too,

with tinned tomatoes and an unseasonal aubergine
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 C O O K I TA L I A !

For this south-eastern

Sicilian version you cook the
sausages, then use their fat to
soften the onions and grapes.

Sausages with grapes and red onions

Salsiccia all’uva e cipolla
➤ SERVES 4 ➤ PREPARATION 15 minutes ➤ COOKING 30 minutes

M
eat and fruit. In a land of fragrant
fruit like quinces, figs, grapes and
pomegranates, with a common love
of sweet and savoury and a pervasive
Middle Eastern influence, I was
surprised not to find more recipes for fruit with meat
in Sicilian cooking. I did find, though, this recipe for
sausages and grapes, which has become a great favourite,
the rich, fatty sausage meat finding good companions in
sweet and sharp grapes and onions. I am told this dish
was made at the grape harvest, with great whorls
of Sicilian sausage cooked over charcoal. Far from fields
and vines, in the domestic kitchen, it is every bit as
delicious and straightforward. You can find variations
of it all over Italy. For this south-eastern Sicilian version
you cook the sausages, then use their fat to soften the
onions and grapes, add vinegar to sharpen things, then
return the sausages to the pan.

• 12 slim or 8 fat pork sausages or 800g
Sicilian sausage
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large red onion
• 500g white or red grapes or a mixture
• 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 1 tbsp sugar
1 In a large frying pan, fry the sausages in
the oil, turning them until they are
golden on all sides and have released
plenty of fat. Remove the sausages from
the pan and keep them warm. If you
want, you can pour away some of the fat.
2 Thinly slice the onion, halve the grapes
and flick out the seeds. Fry the onion
gently in the sausage fat until soft and
translucent. Add the vinegar and sugar
and cook for a few minutes longer, then
add the grapes.
3 Increase the heat and cook the grapes,
stirring constantly, until they are slightly
soft and opaque, about 3 minutes. Taste
to check the balance of sweet and sharp
and add a little more vinegar and/or sugar
if you want.
4 Add the sausages and cook, stirring, for a
couple of minutes. If you can, allow them
to sit for 15 minutes before reheating
briskly and serving.

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 Lemon pudding
Sbriciolata alla crema di limoni
➤ MAKES 8-12 slices ➤ PREPARATION 2 hours ➤ BAKING 25 minutes ➤ RESTING 1 hour

T
his is Cinzia’s recipe for sbriciolata alla crema
di limoni, the literal translation of which
is ‘crumbs around a lemon cream,’ which
really is the best description since none of
the other possibilities are quite right – even
if we have called it lemon pudding. The lemon cream is
typically southern Italian, and therefore thickened with
a little flour, which gives it an old-fashioned and homely
feel, especially if you are used to more elegant, butter-
rich lemon curds.

FOR THE CREAM 2 Pare the zest of 3 lemons in strips and
• 4 unwaxed lemons squeeze the juice. Warm the milk and zest
• 500ml whole milk in a small pan. Leave to sit for 1 hour,
• 6 free-range egg yolks then lift out the zest.
• 150g caster sugar 3 Meanwhile, make the crumbs. In a large
• 35g plain flour bowl, mix the flour, sugar, baking powder
• 35g potato starch or cornflour and salt. Dice the butter and add it, along
FOR THE CRUMBS with the egg, then use cold fingertips to
• 300g plain flour rub the butter and egg into the flour until
• 120g caster sugar the mixture resembles fat breadcrumbs.
• 8-10g baking powder Sprinkle half the crumbs over the base of
• a pinch of salt the tin to make an even layer that covers
• 100g cold butter, plus extra for greasing
the base. Bake on the bottom shelf for a
• 1 large free-range egg, lightly beaten
few minutes, until the crumbs are firm
and pale gold. Remove and leave to cool.
1 Preheat the oven to 180ºC/Gas Mark 4 4 For the cream, in another large bowl,
and grease and dust with flour a 28cm whisk the egg yolks and sugar to a thick
shallow cake or tart tin. cream, then sift over the flour and starch
and mix until smooth. Whisk in 150ml
lemon juice. Warm the milk a little, then,
whisking constantly, add it to the mixture
in a thin stream. Return the mixture to
the pan and cook over a low heat,
whisking, for 15 minutes, until it coats
the back of the spoon. Grate in the zest These recipes
of the final lemon. Spread the cream over are taken from
the crumb base, leaving a 1cm border. Two Kitchens:
Cover it with the rest of the crumbs. Family Recipes
5 Bake for 25 minutes, until the crumbs are from Sicily and
firm and golden. The pudding must be Rome by Rachel
Roddy, published
absolutely cool if you want to turn it out,
by Headline,
and even then you must do so very
photography by
carefully, by inverting it onto a plate,
Nick Seaton and
then onto another plate so that the
Rachel Roddy.
golden crust faces up. It is nice served at RRP £25.
room temperature or chilled.

November 2017 ITALIA! 73

IT156.TwoKitchens.sg4.indd 73 28/09/2017 11:36am

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 D R I N K I TA L I A !

RED WINES
FROM SICILY
With its long, hot summers and fertile soils, Sicily now has
a global reputation for excellent reds. We take a look at
what’s on offer from the island today

S icily has an extremely long history of wine production: it was perhaps

one of the first civilised regions of what would eventually become Italy,
with an indigenous population called the Sicani dating back some
5,000 years. The Phoenicians then colonised the island, creating ports and
areas of commercial activity. The Greeks arrived, and dominated the islands
from around 800 to 300BC. And it was the Greeks who brought with them
the vines that would grow the grapes that would in turn be used to make
wine. Today, Sicily has the largest area of vineyards per capita of any region

Now there’s no doubt you’ll find top-rate

wineries springing up right across the island
in Italy. Wine is big business here, especially robust reds and Marsala, the
eponymous dessert wine. (More on that in our January issue).
There is a myriad of red grape varietals that thrive in the fertile soil and
dry, sunny climate of the island, including Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese,
Frappato and Calabrese as well as non-native varieties such as Merlot and
Syrah. The finest wines were only from the volcanic soils around Mount Etna
or vineyards in the west, but now there’s no doubt you’ll find top-rate
wineries springing up right across the island producing red wines in many
styles and flavours. The six wines we’ve selected over the page are rich and
full with sun-ripened fruit – perfect for cracking open on a cold winter’s
night – and just a tiny snapshot of the fine Sicilian wines available today.

November 2017 ITALIA! 75

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 D R I N K I TA L I A !
DONNAFUGATA
DISCOVERY OF SHERAZADE 2015
From Valvona & Crolla
THE MONTH www.valvonacrolla.co.uk
NERO ORO Price £14.95
APPASSIMENTO 2016 Donnafugata, the location for
From Majestic Wines Giuseppe di Lampedusa’s The
www.majestic.co.uk Leopard, has been producing
Price £9.99 (£8.99 if you order a case of six) wines since the 1850s and
This is a real find. Dark purple in the glass, with aromas has three estates: two on
of blackcurrants, blackberries and black cherries, it’s really the mainland and one on
quite soft, fruit-filled and vibrant on the palate – certainly Pantelleria. Sherazade (she
easier to drink than the dark fruit aromas would suggest. of the Arabian Nights) is the
100 per cent Nero d’Avola, this deliciously full-bodied wine wine dreams are made of.
is made even richer with dried grapes in the production 100 per cent Nero d’Avola
process, and is great value for the price. Get a case. means a full bouquet of dark,
almost woody fruits and a
hint of bay and black pepper.
These flavours intensify on
the palate with even more
O
ISC VE smokiness and dark chocolate.
NT D NOV
RY F T
Long finish and a great wine.
2017
H
O
HE MO
GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH…
Try this velvety smooth red with anything from pizza Pan fry a sirloin steak and
to slow-roasted lamb shoulder and all the trimmings serve with a rich aubergine
caponata on the side
76 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.DrinkItalia.sg7.indd 76
CUMMO
GOCCIANUDA, NERO
D’AVOLA, TERRE
SICILIANE IGT
From Dolce Vita Wines
www.shop.dolcevita
wines.co.uk
Price £16.75
Now this is an interesting
wine: Goccia Nuda (‘the naked
drop’, as in ‘drop of wine’) is
produced sulphite-free, so if
that’s something you wish to
avoid – any many people do –
then this is the wine for you.
It is deeply red in the glass
and scented with cherries and
raspberry. On the palate, it
is well-structured and fresh,
offering darker damson notes
and a hint of flinty minerality
in the long finish.
GREAT WITH…
Game casseroles, dark,
sticky lamb stews and
other rich, red meat dishes
28/09/2017 15:07pm
 PLANETA
CERASUOLO DI
VITTORIA 2015
From Great Western Wine
www.greatwesternwine.co.uk
Price £15.50
Planeta is one of the most
successful Sicilian wine
producers on the world stage
with top-flight red and white
wines to their name. You can
really tell that the grapes for
their Cerasuolo di Vittoria
have been slowly ripened in
the hot Sicilian sun. Bursting
with the cherry notes the
wine’s name suggests, this
Nero d’Avola/Frappato blend
has plenty of dark fruit,
herbal notes and subtle
tannins to ensure a nicely
rounded finish.
GREAT WITH…
Enjoy with a generous
serving of fresh pasta
with beefy ragù
IT156.DrinkItalia.sg7.indd 77
VALDIBELLA
NERO D’AVOLA,
2015
From Berry Bros &Rudd
www.bbr.co.uk
Price £14.00
The Valdibella cooperative
is based in the Camporeale
area of western Sicily where
38 hectares of vineyards are
shared between six growers.
It grows grapes, almonds and
olives, all organically, and
this is one of their wines. At
14 per cent ABV, it packs a
bit of a punch so make sure
you’re serving food with this
one. The sour/sweet cherries
and berries on the nose carry
through on the palate to a
deliciously well-rounded and
finely structured finish.
GREAT WITH…
Lamb on rosemary spiedini
(skewers) or a tangy aged
Sicilian pecorino
AVIDE FRAPPATO NEXT MONTH IN
EatITALIA!
1607 IGT 2015
From Bellavita
www.bellavitashop.co.uk
Price £14.80
From a perhaps lesser-known
producer, Avide, situated
CookITALIA!
in the Cerasuolo di Vittoria
zone, this family-run winery
has been in business since
the 1880s. Their Frappato
1607 boasts intense dark
cherry and blackberry aromas.
The cherry and damson fruit
Cook with passion
aromas combine well on Favourite winter dishes from
the palate with a hint of chef Gennaro Contaldo
liquorice. It’s medium-bodied
with quite a backbone, but
not over-powering. The finish Make more of
isn’t the longest, but this is
a rare easy-drinking red to
mushrooms
enjoy year-round with food. Recipes with the deep, dark
flavours of funghi
In season for December
What’s best to eat this month,
plus festively seasonal recipes
Image from Mushrooms by Jenny Linford, photography Clare Winfield, published by Ryland Peters & Small. Contents may be subject to change
DrinkITALIA!
Champagne-method Italian
sparkling wines – cin cin!
GREAT WITH…
Its freshness demands
piping hot pizza or even
meaty arancini al ragù
November 2017 ITALIA! 77
September
28/09/2017 15:09pm
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 Living ITALIA!
Look no further for expert property advice, your questions
answered, plus the handy Flight Guide to Italy

Homes ITALIA!
Homes in Umbria
Interest in this region’s property
market shows no signs of abating

p80
Property Showcase
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November 2017 ITALIA! 79

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 H O M E S I TA L I A !

Homes in
Umbria
This dreamily serene region of fairytale landscapes and jewel-like hilltowns
continues to be adored by discerning visitors. Property prices are currently
in a very favourable situation for you, says Fleur Kinson

T
ucked away in the middle of the Italian Umbria is a particularly good place for a peaceful
peninsula, encircled by Tuscany, Lazio retreat or to recharge your personal batteries. It offers
and Le Marche, Umbria is famed for its a strong sense of the eternal and the timeless, and
lyrical landscapes, its ancient hilltowns and somehow puts the everyday world with its petty worries
its tranquil, contemplative atmosphere. into better perspective. There’s a lot of unchanged
Spacious and leafy, it has been called ‘the green heart of space and silence here, a lot of physical beauty – both
Italy’, but more than a heart, Umbria is something of natural and hand-built. Crucially, life is uncrowded and
the nation’s spiritual soul. Many of Italy’s best-known unhurried. Thinly-populated Umbria has fewer than
saints and mystics hail from here (St Benedict, St Clare, a million inhabitants, and it seems to absorb its fairly
St Francis of Assisi) and the region yields abundant jaw- large visitor numbers without ever feeling swamped or
dropping churches and cathedrals. diluted. Nicely balanced, Umbria is tranquil but not
It’s hard not to find a kind of remote. It enjoys a good transport
divine inspiration in a place like Umbertide, a hidden gem infrastructure, with easy connections
this. Umbria’s wide, undulating in the northwest to neighbouring regions and direct
landscapes continually pull your mind flights from Britain. It’s great for
towards the bigger picture. With a personally restoring escape, but
softly rounded mountains lining the so much easier to reach than many
horizon and smooth hills climbing other secluded, out-of-the-way places
into the middle distance, your eye is round the world.
continually drawn to upward-rising
land and the sky above, and your MARKET THEN AND NOW
thoughts inclined to higher things. With so much going for it,
Meanwhile, Umbria’s perfectly- Umbria was never going to remain
preserved hilltowns with their undiscovered by foreign property
Images © iStock unless otherwise stated

exquisitely decorated buildings appear buyers. They started trickling in

like mini-heavens in the distance. about forty years ago, at first in
And they’re pretty heavenly when search of lower prices than those
you enter them, too. Well maintained in the adjacent region of Tuscany.
and unspoilt, many of Umbria’s But many found Umbria even more
hilltowns are treasure troves of art enchanting than its better-known
and architecture. They’re also home neighbour, and spread the word.
to warm communities enjoying a very Property prices slowly rose and
high quality of life. rose in both regions until they

80 ITALIA! November 2017

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 Montefalco stands at the very heart of Umbria,
and therefore at the very heart of Italy

November 2017 ITALIA! 81

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 H O M E S I TA L I A !
reached near parity. Then, from
2008 onward, global financial woes
saw many would-be international
buyers putting on hold their plans
to get a second home abroad. Buyer
numbers shrank dramatically in
Umbria, as across the rest of Italy
and many other destinations. The
effect this had on Umbrian prices
was slight, slow and steady – which
is how things tend to go in Italy’s
notably stable property market,
where sudden booms or busts are
mercifully rare. Bit by bit over the
next nine years, property prices
drifted ever so slowly downwards.
Perugia is the region’s capital city
82 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.HomesInUmbria8ppNoSidebars.sg4.indd 82
Spello is encircled by medieval walls built on Roman foundations
Today in Umbria, as across the
rest of Italy, property prices can be
said to be between 15 and 40 per
cent lower than they were in 2007,
depending on the area. Nine years is
a lot of time for a slow, slow decline
to add up to a significant overall
decrease. Needless to say, this means
that your money can get you more
in Umbria today than it could a
decade ago, even taking into account
shifts in the euro-pound exchange
rate. According to the credit ratings
agency Standard and Poor’s, and
some other financial soothsayers,
property prices in Italy are expected
Prices are low, not expected to go much lower, and
thought to begin gently rising again very soon
to stay fairly unchanged this year
and then to have risen by a meagre
1 per cent by the end of 2018. So
now is a perfect time to buy if you
can. Prices are low, not expected
to go much lower, and thought to
begin gently rising again very soon.
But what about today’s actual
figures? What sort of prices might
you expect to pay for a home in
Umbria these days? Obviously
this is a very rough guide, but
there are nicely renovated village
apartments available for as little as
€35,000-€50,000, and two-bedroom
village houses from €100,000.
Small country houses start at about
€140,000, and larger farmhouses at
about €240,000. Even two-bedroom
apartments in highly-desirable
hilltowns such as Assisi can be had
for around €200,000. There is also,
of course, no shortage of sumptuous
luxury properties in towns or in the
countryside available from €400,000
and upward into the millions.
HOW THE LAND LIES
Location is always a major factor
in price, but even if it weren’t you
should still gain a good idea of
Umbria’s various areas before you
begin your property hunt. Let’s start
with a quick look at the region’s
geography. Central, northern and
western Umbria tend to see fertile
valleys of manicured cropfields
unfurling between rounded
elevations. In the far south and
east, meanwhile, the terrain climbs
higher and grows more craggy and
forested. Umbria has no coastline,
but it is blessed with some splendid
lakes, the largest of these being
warm, shallow Lake Trasimeno in
the west. (Beach-lovers, note that
the sea is a ninety-minute drive to
Umbria’s east or west.)
26/09/2017 16:44pm
 US PR
$ 3 IC
Large villa for sale in 90 E
,0
Pettorano sul Gizio, Abruzzo 00
Property near Sulmona, at the southern end of Abruzzo, bordering
Lazio and Le Marche, with the ski resort of Roccaraso half an hour’s
drive away, and Pescara international airport an hour’s drive away.
LEP Law provides comprehensive legal advice to In one part of the villa, the downstairs has been renovated with two bedrooms, one
UK based clients with interests in Italy bathroom, and a furnished room. The upstairs, which needs renovating, has one bathroom,
two bedrooms, and a balcony overlooking Pettorano sul Gizio. In the other part, two floors
lead to a large rooftop terrace; this part has potential for large apartments or a B&B.
Our legal services The house is 2,825 sq. ft, with 2,988q. ft. of quiet land facing the Apennine mountains.

• Real Estate acquisitions in Italy • UK and Italian For sale by private owner in the USA
inheritance rules, Italian and International wills, Telephone +1 917 495 2321 or +1 212 697 6833 x 202
or email adacapri@aol.com
inheritance disputes in Italy • Contractual law and
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• Credit recovery • Translation of legal documents
LEP Law are experts in navigating the
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enquiries@leplaw.co.uk
www.leplaw.co.uk
Victory House, 99-101 Regent Street, London W1B 4EZ

S
57 ale Price
5,0 E
00

Beautiful, period and extremely spacious

4-bedroom villa with pool, which has been
renovated to an exceptionally high standard
L
ocated in picturesque
countryside in the delightful
village of Monticelli, 75 minutes
south of Rome, all rooms are
spacious and benefit from
terraces or large balconies
and have beautiful views.
The house is on four floors,
tiled throughout to a very
high standard and boasts a large
kitchen with family dining, two
dining rooms, a lounge, games room,
four bedrooms and four bathrooms.
› For information please contact Giovanna at:
giovannagrossi@hotmail.co.uk
DimoreToscane.com
It sits in 1100msq of grounds and
well-tended gardens with fruit trees
and organic vegetables along with a
swimming pool with pool house,
shower room and WC.
The property is a beautiful
spacious family home but PROPERTY CONSULTANTS
due to the nature of the size,
grounds and facilities, would
also make a perfect cookery
IN NORTH TUSCANY
school or agriturisimo. Viewing
of this unique, stylish, exceptional
property is recommended. roy@housesintuscany.com
+39 348 8607786

Nick_ad.indd 1 29/03/2017 13:51

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 H O M E S I TA L I A !
UMBRIA REGIONAL GUIDE
INTRODUCTION
Umbria is known as the ‘green heart
of Italy’, thanks to the fact that more
than 30 per cent of this central region
is made up of woodland. This is a
tranquil and historically rich part of
Italy, landlocked by Tuscany, Lazio
and Le Marche, and situated right in
the middle of Italy – although the
Mediterranean and Adriatic coasts are
both only around 90 minutes’ drive
away for those who just can’t keep
away from the seaside. It is pleasantly
uncrowded: Umbria’s population density
stands at half the national average.
84 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.HomesInUmbria8ppNoSidebars.sg4.indd 84
1
2
Yet although it has a low
permanent population, visitor numbers
here are high – tourists flock to Umbria
each year, but magically, seem to
be easily absorbed without creating
the hustle and bustle found in other
regions. The region remains a peaceful,
spiritual place, and plays host to a
wealth of fine historic buildings, among
them Assisi’s basilica and Orvieto’s
cathedral. The region’s peace is further
enhanced by the fact that Umbria
is not criss-crossed by major roads,
although the A1 motorway glides past
its western edge. Rail and bus links are
good, but a car is essential if you want
to get off the beaten track. Umbria is
also well served by airports – in both
nearby regions as well as flights to
Umbria’s capital, Perugia.
Politically, Umbria is divided into
two main provinces: Perugia in the
north and Terni in the south, and
geographically by the valley of the
River Tiber and the Valle Umbria.
Geologically, Europe’s main faultline
runs through Umbria, as evidenced in
the earthquakes of 1997 and 2016.
26/09/2017 16:44pm
 PERUGIA
1 Umbria’s capital, Perugia, has a
significant historical heritage as well
as being a vibrant university city with
two academic establishments. It’s an
attractive medieval hilltown, with a
3,000-year history that has witnessed
occupations by the Etruscans and
the Romans, among others. Perugia
also boasts some of Europe’s best-
maintained medieval streets, with
a host of superb palaces and piazze
too. A stylish and vibrant city, Perugia
is the venue for a variety of lively
festivals, especially during the summer
– you won’t want to miss the famous
chocolate festival! It is the ‘gateway’
to Umbria for most UK visitors
arriving by air, and has been since
the advent of budget Ryanair flights
to its airport a few years ago. While
properties here can be on the pricey
side, holiday rental returns can be
great, and bountiful with students and
The medieval hilltop town of
businessmen eager for lodgings Corciano just outside Perugia
on a regular basis.

ASSISI ORVIETO & TODI TERNI & THE SOUTH

2 Just half an hour’s drive from
Perugia and visible for miles around
is the pink and cream hilltop town of
Assisi, iconic throughout the world.
It’s another medieval jewel and a
designated World Heritage Site, where
you will find the Basilica of St Francis
and other Franciscan sites. It’s a
must-visit destination with year-
round rental potential and offers a
fantastic range of property, although
its prices reflect its desirability. It
attracts pilgrims in search of religious
experiences, but there’s so much more
besides to see in this cultural haven.
LAKE TRASIMENO
3 In the west is the ‘Umbrian
Riviera’, Lake Trasimeno, with its
mild microclimate, delightful islands
and imperious castles. It’s the fourth
largest lake in Italy and a magnet for
watersports enthusiasts, fishermen
and cyclists. The views are serene and
this is a popular spot for a second
home and a great location for getting
welcome holiday rental returns.
4 The tiny medieval town of Orvieto
is south of Perugia, high on the
remains of an ancient volcano. The
Etruscans were the original settlers,
but it is the medieval architecture
that defines the town. Todi is halfway
between Perugia and Terni – another
small but beautiful ancient town,
famous for its historic heritage,
architecture, good food and wine.
The surrounding area is dotted with
interesting places to visit and lovely
countryside. Both Todi and Orvieto
are – understandably – among the
region’s pricier towns for properties.
Lake Trasimeno, the
‘Umbrian Riviera’
5 The area to the south and
southeast of the region, around the
town of Terni, is the least populated
part of quiet Umbria. Terni itself is
the area’s major city, but is largely
industrial, as the majority of its
medieval architecture was destroyed
during World War II. It has two
interesting claims to fame: as the
geographical centre of Italy there
was a plan in 1867 to make Terni
the country’s capital, which, as
history shows, was unsuccessful.
Also, the city’s first bishop was the
martyred St Valentine, who became
the patron saint of lovers worldwide.
The surrounding area is largely
mountainous, offering unspoilt valleys,
rivers and meadows, and this area is
a prime location for truffle hunters,
a much-loved ingredient of the local
cuisine. A must-visit nearby town in
the area is Narni, another hilltown
with a very ancient and rich history.
The Valnerina, southeast of Spoleto,
leading to Norcia, has some of the
most rugged, remote and dramatic
landscapes of the entire region.

November 2017 ITALIA! 85

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 H O M E S I TA L I A !

Its abundance of enchanting ancient towns –

especially hilltop towns – is one of Umbria’s greatest
assets. These old settlements are well-preserved and
well-kept places full of historical buildings.

Trevi commands one of

the best views to be found
anywhere in Umbria

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 There are no big cities in Umbria (the largest,
Perugia, is home to just under 170,000 people).
Most buyers come to Umbria to enjoy the region’s
intense rural beauty and its enchanting ancient
towns. The rural areas most popular with buyers
are the Vale of Spoleto in the region’s centre,
the Upper Tiber Valley in the far north, and the
area around Lake Trasimeno. None of these are
Umbria’s cheapest parts, but there are still plenty
of reasonably priced, good-value homes available in
all three areas. Umbria’s very cheapest rural homes
can be found in the region’s eastern and southern
extremes, where the landscape is generally
higher and wilder than elsewhere. Especially
recommended down here for geographical beauty
plus low prices is the Nera Valley area (the
‘Valnerina’) and the Sibillini Mountains.
On the subject of land and geography, you
should always bear in mind that Umbria – like
almost everywhere else on the Italian peninsula –
is a seismically active zone. You will have heard
in recent years news reports of earthquakes in
this and several other central Italian regions. All
newly built homes, and all old homes bought as
restoration projects, are legally required to include
various earthquake-proofing techniques in their
construction. These protective measures work
very well, but must of course be present to do
Umbria’s very cheapest rural
homes can be found in the region’s
eastern and southern extremes
so. If it is your intention to do up an old country
home in Umbria, like so many foreign buyers have
done before you, make absolutely certain that you
employ the latest anti-quake technology in your
construction. After all, you wouldn’t want any
ugly cracks – or worse – appearing one day in your
beautiful old walls, would you?
GOLDEN TOWNS
As suggested earlier, its abundance of enchanting
ancient towns – especially hilltop towns – is one
of Umbria’s greatest assets. These old settlements
are well-preserved and well-kept places full of
historical buildings, and they often enjoy a lively
calendar of public events. Many buyers opt for an
apartment in one of Umbria’s old towns rather
than a rural property outside town. The advantages
of this are total immersion into the community of
the town itself, plus in many cases an even longer
holiday rentals season if you’re planning to rent
your place out when you’re not there. Some of
Umbria’s most-loved towns include Assisi, Todi,
Orvieto, Perugia and Spoleto, but you should also
be aware of other gems such as Montefalco, Spello,
Montone, Trevi, Bevagna, Umbertide, Città di
IT156.HomesInUmbria8ppNoSidebars.sg4.indd 87
The Wells on holiday with friends
Image courtesy of Lorelei and Jacob Wells
OUR LIFE IN UMBRIA
L
eicestershire-based Lorelei and Jacob Wells (in pink and centre,
pictured with friends) own a three-bedroom rural house situated
between Todi and Orvieto in southwest Umbria. They enjoy long
visits there several times a year, make the place available to friends
and family, and occasionally offer holiday rentals at other times.
What drew them to Umbria? “I was working for a company that had
a lot of Italian clients and they sent me to do an intensive Italian language
course in Perugia back in 2005,” Lorelei explains. “Jacob and I had been on
holiday to Italy a few times, but Umbria was fairly new to me. And I loved
it immediately. The next year we went out to explore the area, and travelled
down from Perugia to Assisi, Montefalco, Spoleto, Todi and Orvieto.
Magical places. We called it our ‘Umbrian road-trip’ and it was one of the
best holidays we’d ever had. We had already been thinking about buying a
house in Italy, maybe in Liguria or Veneto, but the Umbrian holiday left us
in no doubt as to where we should buy.
“The house was just about habitable when we bought it, but it badly
needed smartening up. I think it had been unoccupied for about thirty years.
We had a great team of builders who hammered and scraped and plastered
and tinkered inside the building while Jacob and I weeded and dug and
planted and landscaped outside. We had new wiring put in, a new boiler
and heating system, and we refitted the kitchen and bathroom. It was really
exciting watching this dilapidated old house come back to life, and start to
look all new and perfect. We ummed and ahhed about putting in a pool, but
eventually decided against it. We have Lake Bolsena not far to the west and
Lake Trasimeno not far to the north.
“What we love most about the place is the quiet and the fresh air. When
people come to visit us, you can see the happy astonishment on their faces
when they sit out with us on their first evening here. The silence, the peace
of the place. All around us are woods and fields, with the nearest houses just
pretty lights off through the trees and on the hillside. We always feel so
restored after a day or two of being here. Being deep in nature and quietness.
Of course we love to go and visit beautiful towns nearby like Todi and
Orvieto, or go up to Perugia – all stimulating places – but the best thing is
always coming back home to this incredibly calm nook where we live and
sitting out in the garden watching the colours of the sky deepen and the
twilight come up. It makes me feel completely at peace.”
November 2017 ITALIA! 87
26/09/2017 16:45pm
 H O M E S I TA L I A !
Castello and more. Umbria really
does have an exceptionally high
number of beautiful settlements to
explore, and their property prices
can be surprisingly reasonable.
If holiday rental returns are a
big factor in what you want from
a town-home in Umbria, you
might look closely at Assisi and
Perugia. The former is one of the
world’s great pilgrimage sites, as
well as being a dazzlingly lovely
spot, and people flock here year-
round. Perugia, meanwhile, has
several rentals markets to look into
– tourists, students and business
Assisi attracts tourists and pilgrims
88 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.HomesInUmbria8ppNoSidebars.sg4.indd 88
people who often make short- and
medium-term stays in the city. As
the regional capital, Perugia enjoys
good swift connections to other
places, yet remains a handsome and
atmospheric town in itself and a
great place to be.
HOLIDAY RENTALS
On the general subject of holiday
rentals, you should know that
visitors have shown no sign at all
of falling out of love with Umbria
for several decades, and have kept
coming irrespective of wobbles in
the global economy. Visitors to
Visitors have shown no sign at all of falling
out of love with Umbria for several decades
Umbria are a discerning, cultured
and well-mannered bunch who
come to enjoy the countryside and
the delights of the historic towns.
A two-bedroom apartment in
an Umbrian hilltown might get
you rental returns of €300-€500
per week – more if it’s large or
luxurious. A country house with
a pool could garner €1,000 per
week in the summer months, and
considerably more if it’s a very large
property. The rural rentals season
runs from May to early October,
with the hilltowns often seeing a
longer season than that.
The ancient town of
Bevagna was already
famous in Roman times
If, like many buyers, your dream
is to restore an old tumbledown
property in Umbria, there are
still projects available to take on.
Local builders – whose standards
are extremely high – will be keen
to take on the work, and you may
be able to negotiate a very good
price. Note that any restoration
work will have to maintain the
traditional style and character of
Umbrian buildings, at least on the
outside. The attractive look and
feel of rural buildings is one of the
charms that keeps visitors coming
back to the Umbrian countryside,
so you can understand why that’s
legally protected. Many foreign
buyers have done beautiful property-
restorations in Umbria over the last
few decades, and if you don’t want
to take advantage of this by buying
something someone else has already
lovingly restored, you can certainly
join their ranks and decide to do up
a ruin yourself.
INFORMATION
For more on property in Italy go to
www.italytravelandlife.com
26/09/2017 16:45pm
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CASA IMMERSA
Immersed in all the good things Le Marche has to offer – the beaches
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Luxurious and spacious apartment with a 30sqm terrace partly covered by
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90 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.PropShowcase.sg4.indd 90
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CASA ICONA
This house has all the views you’ve dreamed of having. From Casa Icona
you can see all the icons of Le Marche’s gorgeous landscape. Structurally
restored 240sqm stone house, high build quality, anti-earthquake
construction. All the hard work is done. Now, it’s yours to finish as you’d
like. Price includes structurally restored house, habitable 2-bedroom
cottage annex and standalone garage. Total of 5-7 bedrooms. Excellent
family home, B&B, rental property. Great value and great location.
Price €230,000
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VILLA ROSARIO
Fully restored 200-year-old hilltop farmhouse with 360-degree views,
including of the Potenza river valley below. Easy access to the Adriatic Coast
resorts of Sirolo, Portonovo and Numana among others. Set in 3,760sqm of
land, the house is 300sqm (4+1 bedrooms) with a 12-metre pool with large
steps for easy access. Fully fitted luxury kitchen, modern bathroom, newly
installed dual gas/wood central heating and hot water system (gas and wood
burners), wooden window frames with double glazing, mosquito nets, wi-fi, TV
and remotely controlled electronic gates. Four kilometres from Recanati,
14km from the sea and half an hour by car from Ancona airport.
Price €580,000 Contact % +39 339 101 9042
info@marchepropertynet.com www.marchepropertynet.com
28/09/2017 12:08pm
 NEXT MONTH IN

ITALIA!
CHRISTMAS
IN ITALY
From skiing in the snowy Aosta Valley to seeing the spectacle of
Luci d’Artista in Salerno, we’re dreaming of an Italian Christmas

WINTER WARMERS
Cook with Gennaro Contaldo
Image © iStock. Contents may be subject to change

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

Presents for friends and family
PLUS What’s in season for December, Champagne-method
sparkling wines, news, letters, expert advice, what’s on and more…

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 C O M P E T I T I O N I TA L I A !

ITALIA!
Travel Writing
The restau
rant serves
seasonal, lo
cal fare

COMPETITION
Tell us your travellers’ tales! You have until 31 October to enter our 2017 Travel
Writing Competition in association with Villa Sandi – there are amazing prizes
to win, including the chance to have your work published in Italia! magazine.

T
here is still time
to enter our travel
writing competition
as the closing date is
31 October 2017. We
have had a great response so far but
are still looking for your travel tales
for our competition. Send us an
article about any aspect of travel in
Italy, whether it’s your latest trip or
a specific attraction or event. From
themed holidays to days out, new
angles on well-known destinations
to explorations of places off the
beaten track, the subject is up to
you, as long as its inspiration is your
Italian travels! Make sure you read
the rules (right) before you send in
your entry. Good luck to you all!
TO ENTER
Send entries to: Writing Competition, Italia! magazine,
Anthem Publishing, Suite 6, Piccadilly House,
London Road, Bath BA1 6PL or email italia@anthem-
publishing.com (subject: ‘Writing Competition’).
Include your full name and contact details.
Each restful bedroom
RULES has a unique character
➤ Closing date is 31 October 2017 – LAST CHANCE!
➤ Entrants must be over 18 years old.
➤ Entries may be submitted by post or by email.
➤ Only one piece of writing to be submitted per entrant.
➤ Entrants must be amateurs (ie, not professionally
published writers online or in print). tta
i’s La Rive
Villa Sand H ill
➤ Articles must be no longer than 1,000 words
estate on
Cartizze
and must be original – all your own work and not
published elsewhere, in print or online.
➤ It is the responsibility of each entrant to ensure
that no element of their entry infringes the copyright
of any third party or any other laws.
➤ Copyright in all submissions to the competition
remains with the respective entrants. However, in
providing their work to the competition, each entrant
grants a licence to Italia! magazine to feature any or
all of the submissions in its publications, its website,
digital media and/or in any promotional material
connected to this competition.

TERMS AND CONDITIONS be taken by May 30, 2018. Flights, transfers and other travel costs
Competition available only for readers of Italia! magazine (over (including insurance) are not included. Hire car is not included but
Images © Villa Sandi unless otherwise stated

18 years old). Judging will take place after the closing date of 31
October 2017 and the winner will be notified in November 2017.
The prize includes two nights in a double room (accommodation
based on two people sharing) at the Locanda Sandi, including a
welcome gift box, breakfast each day, one night’s set menu dinner
recommended. No other costs will be covered by Villa Sandi or
Italia! magazine.
The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be
entered into. The prize must be accepted as offered. Entry implies
acceptance of these rules. Only one article will be accepted per
Image by Amanda Robinson

with a bottle of Villa Sandi Prosecco, (please note the restaurant
is closed Weds and Thurs and no alternative venue is offered) and
a guided visit of Villa Sandi. All other meals and sightseeing are at
the winners’ expense. Check-in time at Locanda Sandi is 12 noon.
Nearest airports are Venice, Treviso and Verona.
The dates are subject to room availability and exclude UK and
Italian holiday periods and other blackout dates. The holiday must
entrant. Employees of Anthem Publishing, Villa Sandi and Bellavita
are not eligible for entry. No cash alternative will be offered.
Data captured from this writing competition will be shared with
Villa Sandi, Italia! magazine and Bellavita. Entry to this competition
grants permission unless specified by the entrant. Please state
‘NO OFFERS’ on your entry if you do not wish to receive further
information from Villa Sandi, Italia! magazine and Bellavita.

92 ITALIA! November 2017

IT156.WritingComp.sg5.indd 92 26/09/2017 12:09pm

 EN
A T TER CH LA
1st
WO BY
- 3
WI NIGH 1 OC
ANST
PRIZE
TH T S TO
VIL TA BER
CE
2nd
!
LA Y IN TO
SA VE WI
ND NE N
PRIZE I TO
Feeling
inspired?
Italia!’s
editor, Amanda
Robinson, offers her top
Locanda Sandi is at the
heart of Prosecco country five travel-writing tips

THE FIRST PRIZE

As well as having your winning article published in
THE RUNNER-UP will win a
magnum of Villa Sandi Il Fresco*
1 Remember you have
five senses – it’s not
just about describing what
Italia! magazine, the first prize is an exclusive visit plus a stopper and gift from
to Villa Sandi, iconic premium prosecco producers in London-based Bellavita, you see. When writing a
Veneto. This amazing package includes a two-night www.bellavitashop.co.uk – personal account, try to
stay for the winner and a guest at Villa Sandi’s very own the online Italian food and wine write about a destination
hotel, Locanda Sandi, in Valdobbiadene, tucked away in specialists. The runner-up will
the vineyards of Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOCG. also have their work published from the point of view of
Locanda Sandi offers guests a warm welcome in an in Italia! magazine. every aspect of experience.
elegant and comfortable setting with traditional local
dishes and Villa Sandi wines on the menu. Set within a
typical Veneto-style country house, the Locanda Sandi
has been restored using materials reclaimed from ancient
2 Think about the
structure of your piece,
and give it a well-
buildings, adding a refined allure to the Locanda’s rustic
character. Each of the six rooms tells its own story with a
considered beginning,
unique colour palette and restful interiors furnished with middle and end.

3
locally-sourced vintage furniture.
Villa Sandi enjoys a worldwide reputation as a
If there are other
producer of fine wines and especially for its award- travel writers
winning proseccos. The beautiful 17th-century Palladian you admire, read their
villa is now company headquarters and offers tours of its articles for inspiration
fascinating underground cellars. For more about Villa
Sandi and Locanda Sandi, www.villasandi.it; for Villa and to see how they
Sandi wines in the UK, www.bellavitashop.co.uk approach a feature, but
The wine ce
llars
remember: finding your
beneath Vi
Owned by the Moretti Polegato lla Sandi own style and voice is
family, this elegant Palladian-style
villa is Villa Sandi’s headquarters essential!

4 Think about what

will be relevant and
interesting for a reader
*Prosecco and bottle stopper delivered to mainland UK addresses only

– what would you want

to read about in a travel
piece? Aim to inspire,
surprise and inform with
your article.

5 Remember to be
concise and keep to
the competition’s word
limit of 1,000 words.

November 2017 ITALIA! 93

IT156.WritingComp.sg5.indd 93 26/09/2017 12:09pm

 A S K I TA L I A !
QUESTIONS
& ANSWERS
Our experts are here to help with all your questions about Italy.
This month, travelling around Puglia, fractional ownership in
Le Marche, and starting a new business in Italy…
DISCOVERING THE SOUTH
Q We are planning next year’s holiday to
Italy, and have both managed to get two
weeks off next year rather than our usual one!
We want to make the most of the trip, staying at
more than one place if possible. Could you please
give us some advice? We like the idea of discovering
more than one destination during our stay. We
have enjoyed holidays to places like Venice and
the Lakes previously but haven’t really explored
Puglia and the south.
David Clark, by email
A Italy’s south is perfect for a self-drive
holiday, and with two weeks to enjoy it
you’re sure to be able to tick off plenty of its
many highlights.
THIS MONTH’S EXPERTS
Lara Crowe is an Italy Expert at Citalia, the
leading Italian specialist. We have been helping
our customers discover the very best of Italy for
over 85 years now. Our experience and expertise,
together with our attention to detail and personal touch, really does make us the
leading Italian holiday specialist. Email Lara.Crowe@citalia.com or call on her
direct line ☎ 01293 765486
94 ITALIA! November 2017
IT156.Q&A.sg4.indd 94
Image © Appassionata
Puglia is one of my favourite parts of
Italy, and is a region that could easily fill
two weeks of travels on its own. But to
give you time to discover a little more of
the south, I’d suggest spending five nights
here. Alberobello (home to Puglia’s famous
trulli houses) is a must-see, as are the nearby
towns of Locorotondo and Cisternino. I’d dotted around the city give you a great view
also suggest that you visit the baroque of these houses, as well as of the dramatic
city of Lecce, the whitewashed hill town of gorge that sits below Matera.
Ostuni and one of the beach resorts such as Earlier this year, I visited the region of
Polignano a Mare. Calabria for the first time and was stunned by
The city of Matera is just over the how beautiful the coastline was. I’d suggest
border into Basilicata, and is another place
I’d recommend spending a few days in. It’s
famous for its ancient cave houses, which
staying in the seaside town of Tropea, which
gives you plenty of restaurants, gelaterias and
cafés, plus easy access to the unspoilt beaches
spread over a hillside – panoramic terraces of the Capo Vaticano. It’s around four hours’
drive from Matera, through some spectacular
Tropea is Calabria’s favourite seaside resort, mountain scenery.
but is little-known outside the region Combining these three regions would
make a wonderful southern Italian adventure,
but you could also squeeze in another stop
if you didn’t mind a little more driving.
Cilento is around four hours away, and boasts
empty sandy beaches, a cave-dotted coastline
and a huge national park. It also puts you
within reach of Paestum, where you can visit
the well-preserved Greek temples.
Our ‘Undiscovered Italy’ itinerary takes
you to all four regions across 15 days, flying
into Naples and out of Bari or Brindisi in
Puglia. We recommend three nights each
in Cilento, Calabria and Basilicata, then five
nights in Puglia, but (like all our itineraries),
these can be changed to suit you.
Lara Crowe, Italy Expert at Citalia
Dawn Cavanagh-Hobbs is co-
founder of the successful fractional
ownership company Appassionata SHARE OUR PROPERTIES
Ltd, a UK-based development
business that specialises in the restoration and creation
of unique properties in the stunning region of Le Marche.
info@appassionata.com www.appassionata.com
26/09/2017 12:05pm
 ITALIA!
STARTING A BUSINESS legal
Q I am about to embark on a venture here in Italy.
Having lived here for about four months now, I am
not a resident as yet, but assume I will have to be one when
expert
I have
not

I start my antiques retail business here. I have been in business

for over 15 years and am very familiar with the day-to-day running of a
business and have knowledge of buying throughout Europe. I am keen to
start this business as soon as possible – I have found premises already.
Please can you tell me exactly what are the necessary criteria to
start a business in Italy. I realise I do need a good accountant, and
a lawyer, but I would appreciate some advice on the legalities that
affect me as an individual. I do of course have a Codice Fiscale, which
I obtained when I arrived.
Mike Leslie, by email

Appassionata’s Il Riposo offers you the chance to

own a share in a luxury property in Le Marche
A The first step to take to open a new business in Italy is
to go to the information desk of the local SUAP offices
(Sportello Unico Attività Produttive). The SUAP office
is generally the main point of contact for those who need
FRACTIONAL OWNERSHIP IN LE MARCHE information on all the administrative and legal requirements

Q We are attracted to the idea of fractional ownership at your new

property in Le Marche but would like to know more about the area, and
about the property we are buying into as well. Is there any way we can visit
to start a new business, such as registration of the business
with the Chamber of Commerce, VAT registration and relevant
communications to the Italian tax authorities for national
the region with you in order to get more of a feel of what we might expect? insurance contributions, to name a few.
Sam Long, Surrey

A From afar, it is impossible to fully appreciate the unique

landscape, tranquillity, and natural beauty of Le Marche and Il
Riposo, our latest property. We always invite our prospective owners
to come and stay in our 15th-century Palazzo Scarsini apartment for
a few days. We give you a tour of the property and the local area.
Afterwards we meet up for a relaxing lunch or dinner in one of the
many wonderful restaurants and answer any questions you may have.
Most people then like to go off and explore on their own and we are The legal requirements to obtain a licence for the business
happy to give you recommendations for excursions and restaurants. field you wish to operate in may include a clean credit and
There is no pressure, we never do a hard sell, we don’t need to! criminal history record. At this very early stage of the starting
Dawn Cavanagh-Hobbs, Appassionata up process, it may be helpful to request the advice of a legal
professional (such as a lawyer or an accountant) to discuss the
Prospective clients can stay at luxurious most advantageous and tax efficient forms of business and legal
Palazzo Scarsini during their discovery trip structures for your business, ie: a limited company (SRL) or
simpler and cheaper corporate or business structures that are
more suited to your individual business in the medium and
long term. European citizens are entitled to work in Italy (as
Image © Appassionata

employees or self-employed) with the sole exclusion being those

activities that Italian law specifically reserves to Italian citizens.
It is however important that EU citizens register their presence
with the local registry office (Anagrafe) within three months of
the date of first entry.
Non-EU citizens wishing to start a business by setting up
certain types of companies or wishing to work as directors or
legal representatives of certain types of corporate structures,
must be in possession of a residence permit. In addition,
in some circumstances, other requirements, such
EMAIL
Laura Protti is the founder of as the so-called reciprocy condition, may apply. US WITH YOUR
LEP Law. She is dual-qualified In such cases, the person in question can start a
QUESTIONS:
italia@anthem-
as an Italian avvocato and business or set up a company if the country of publishing.com
English solicitor, and specialises which they are a citizen gives Italian citizens or write to us at our
usual address on
in assisting British and Italian clients with matters relating similar rights and entitlements. page 7.
to Italian law. Visit her website at www.leplaw.co.uk for Laura Protti, LEP Law
more information.

November 2017 ITALIA! 95

IT156.Q&A.sg4.indd 95 27/09/2017 10:49am

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IT155.Classified.ncm1.indd 96 28/08/2017 11:59


FLIGHT GUIDE
Our indispensable guide to Italy’s main international
airports: where they are and, most importantly, how
to get from them to where you are really going…
1 ROME
www.adr.it
Rome-Fiumicino, aka Leonardo
da Vinci, is Italy’s busiest airport
by far, though with facilities like
touchscreen information terminals
it’s all negotiable. It is linked to the
central railway station, Termini, by
the ‘Leonardo Express’. Returns depart
from track 24 (buy tickets before
you get to the platform or they’re
more expensive). Terminal B is for
international flights; Terminal C for
transatlantic. The Terravision shuttle
bus is cheaper but takes twice as long.
Ciampino, which in the days of
Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn was
the city’s main airport, also has regular
flights to the UK and is closer to town,
though there is no rail link. There is
talk of a third airport.
2 MILAN
www.airportmalpensa.com
www.orioaeroporto.it
www.milanolinate-airport.com
Milan already has three airports, if you
count Orio al Serio, which is actually
just outside Bergamo, about 45km from
Milan. But even Bergamo has frequent
coach services into Milan; these take
about an hour and cost only around €5
per person each way. After Fiumicino,
these are Italy’s next three busiest
airports, and there are year-round
direct links to cities all over Europe
and, from Malpensa, to the USA.
3 VENICE & THE VENETO
www.veniceairport.it
www.trevisoairport.it
www.aeroportoverona.it
www.aeroporto.fvg.it
Venice Marco Polo connects to cities
across Europe and, seasonally, to the
USA. From the airport, ATVO (www.
atvo.it) runs non-stop shuttles to
Piazzale Roma. The ACTV bus (www.
actv.it) and the Alilaguna boat (www.
alilaguna.it) stop along the way. For
water taxis, see the airport website.
Venice’s second airport is at Treviso.
An ATVO from here takes 70 minutes.
Verona Villafranca, aka Valerio
Catullo, is two hours by train from
Venice, but is really for people with
more Shakespearean pursuits… ATV‘s
Aerobus 199 (www.atv.verona.it) runs
IT156.FlightGuide.sg4.indd 97
to Porta Nuova; in the summer, they
go up to Lake Garda. There is a fourth
international airport at Trieste.
4 TUSCANY & UMBRIA
www.pisa-airport.com
www.aeroporto.firenze.it
www.airport.umbria.it
Pisa’s ‘Galileo Galilei’ Airport is the
main point of arrival for visitors not
only to Pisa but also to Florence.
There’s a shuttle train into Pisa, from
where you can get a train to Florence
after you’ve seen the Leaning Tower.
But, if you’re dead intent on heading
straight for the Renaissance City, why
not just jump on a bus? Buy tickets
at the Information Desk (leave the
arrivals hall and turn right).
Alternatively, you can (for a price)
fly straight into Florence from London
City. Further south, San Francesco
d’Assisi Airport lands you smack in the
centre of Umbria, Italy’s ‘Green Heart’.
5 PIEDMONT & LIGURIA
www.aeroportoditorino.it
www.airport.genova.it
A train will take you from Turin-Caselle
Airport to Dora Railway Station in 20
minutes. There are buses too, but the
train is cheaper and faster. Buy tickets
from the Ricevitoria in the arrival hall.
Genoa ‘Cristoforo Colombo’ Airport
is built on an artificial peninsula just
to the west of the city centre. Take the
bus or a taxi into town – or, if you’re
feeling fit, walk. It’s that close!
6 EMILIA-ROMAGNA
www.bologna-airport.it
www.parma-airport.it
The Marconi Express monorail (a
project entrusted to a Swiss company
specializing in amusement rides) is
still under construction. Meanwhile,
the Aerobus-BLQ shuttle bus (www.
aerobus.bo.it) takes 20 minutes to
reach Bologna’s central railway station.
Emilia-Romagna’s second airport
is at Parma. Your shuttle bus service
here is provided by Andromeda (www.
andromedasbus.it).
7 NAPLES
www.aeroportodinapoli.it
The publicly-run Azienda Napoletana
Mobilità (www.anm.it) offers bus 3S
● italia@anthem-
2
●
3
●
5
●
6
●
4
●
1
● 9
and Alibus as ways of getting into
town – though the taxi ride along the
Tangenziale is much more fun. Your
driver will offer a fixed rate for any
main destination.
8 SICILY
www.aeroporto.catania.it
www.palermo-airport.com
www.aeroportodicomiso.eu
Catania-Fontanarossa, aka Vincenzo
Bellini, is Sicily’s busiest airport. A
shuttle bus takes foot passengers into
Catania, while most hire cars head for
the nearby A19 autostrada, which links
Catania with Palermo.
Falcone-Borsellino is a capital city
airport with a provincial feel an hour
by shuttle bus from Palermo’s Quattro
Canti. Meanwhile, Comiso has recently
been converted from military use to
serve travellers to Sicily’s southeast.
9 SARDINIA
www.aeroportodialghero.it
www.cagliari-airport.com
www.olbiaairport.com
Sardinia is served by three
international airports, at Alghero,
Cagliari and Olbia. What they all have
in common is that there are a lot more
flights in summer than there are in
winter. In high season, book ahead.
F LY I TA L I A !
EMAIL
US WITH YOUR
AIRPORT TIPS:
publishing.com,
or write to us at our
usual address on
page 7
●
11
●
7
●
10
●
12
●
8
10 PUGLIA
www.aeroportidipuglia.it
Bari and Brindisi are both largely
domestic airports, though there are
regular connections with the UK. These
can, however, be in high demand,
especially in season, so plan ahead.
Public transport to and from both
airports can be a bit patchy in places,
so plan for that too.
11 LE MARCHE, ABRUZZO & MOLISE
www.aeroportomarche.it
www.abruzzoairport.com
Italy’s scenic east coast is still not very
well served by international airlines.
There are several routes across the
Adriatic – and you can get to Sweden
readily enough from here – but if you’re
flying from the UK, your only option,
for Ancona or Pescara, is (sigh!) flying
with Ryanair from Stansted.
12 CALABRIA & BASILICATA
www.lameziaairport.it
If you thought the people of Le
Marche were poorly catered for with
international air connections, spare
a thought for Calabria – or, for that
matter, Basilicata. Again, to get to
Lamezia Terme, we must first head
for lovely Stansted, probably at silly
o’clock in the morning.
November 2017 ITALIA! 97
26/09/2017 12:02pm
 THE FINAL WORD

Insider’s STOP 04

ROME THE
SPANISH STEPS

From Bernini’s Fontana della

Barcaccia in Piazza di Spagna, a
135-step stairway leads up to the
Santissima Trinità dei Monti church
The official name is the Scalinata
di Trinità dei Monti but we know
them as the Spanish Steps, for the
embassy once located here…

A fter our visit to the Vatican

Museums last month, we thought
it unlikely that you would want
to go straight to the Galleria Borghese
(where we will be going next month),
so what better time to stop off halfway,
get the old selfie stick out, and see if we
can’t break Instagram?
In the old days, of course, before
mobile phones, the Spanish Steps served
another important function in the life of
the tourist in Rome: if you were meeting
friends in the city, this was the place to
find them. Even if you hadn’t actually
arranged to meet them at a specific time
– in fact, especially if you hadn’t – this
would be the place to find them, because
at some point they would come here.
If you approach the Steps from the
direction of the Vatican, up Via dei
Condotti, this stone butterfly floats
ahead of you, not so much leading to the
church at the top (as was the intention) as
imposing upon it with its dazzling scale
and fame. (After all, who goes to Rome
to see the Trinità dei Monti, however
Santissima it may be?)
John Keats spent his last three months
at the house on the right, which you can
visit, and there are some notable works
of art in the church. (There used to be
others, but they were ‘relocated’ during
the Napoleonic occupation.) Like Keats,
however, our time is short, and we’re
going to continue directly from here up
the hill to the Villa Borghese.

INFORMATION
➤ Metro: Spagna (at the top). You’re not
supposed to eat on the Steps, but this is really
Image © iStock

just to stop people setting up picnics. Unlike at

the Colosseum, however, or the Sistine Chapel,
you can use your selfie stick. And people do.

98 ITALIA! November 2017

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IT130.Adp40.sg1.indd 40 29/07/2015 13:52pm
00760_02 Filippo Berio Founder
IT146.Adp100.sg1.indd 100 Ad_Italia_Magazine 285x220mm.indd 1 15/11/201613:51pm
23/11/2016 11:07