Global Quality Department

Valid for all brands in H&M group except Cheap Monday

December 2013

Nominated QC Inspection Manual

Textile Products/Soft Accessories/Footwear

CONTENT

Purpose of Quality Control .................................................................................................... 1

Preparation for Inspection .................................................................................................... 2
Hand Over Meeting .......................................................................................................... 2
Pre Production Meeting ..................................................................................................... 2
Independent QC Equipment for Inspection.............................................................................. 2
General for All Inspections .................................................................................................... 3
RQS ............................................................................................................................... 3
Amount of Inspections ..................................................................................................... 3
Production Samples and How to Pick Production Samples ..................................................... 3
Initial Inspection (include “General for all inspections”) ........................................................ 4
Inline Inspection (include “General for all inspections”) ........................................................ 4
Final Inspection (include “General for all inspections”) .......................................................... 5
How to Choose Cartons ........................................................................................................ 5
How to Choose Pieces .......................................................................................................... 6
Definition of Defects ............................................................................................................ 7
Critical, Major and Minor Defects ....................................................................................... 7
Critical Defects ............................................................................................................ 7
Major Defects .............................................................................................................. 8
Minor Defects .............................................................................................................. 8
Judgment of Defects ........................................................................................................ 8

Purpose of Quality Control

The purpose of quality control is to pinpoint the production operations which need special attention.
By working proactive, the defects will be found at an early stage of the production. The problems
will be solved at once and the number of defective merchandise can be reduced and last but not
least be prevented.
In order to reach the best quality, the following inspections and meetings should be performed and
attended by the Supplier’s Independent QC/QC team.

• Hand Over Meeting (in factory)

• Pre Production Meeting (in factory/ sometimes in H&M PO)
• Initial Inspection (in factory)
• Inline Inspection (in factory)
• Final Inspection (in factory)

The Nominated QC makes inspections on behalf of H&M and should work in the same way as an
H&M group QC, which means to secure the quality pro-actively in all processes and not only
making inspection in the end.

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December 2013

Preparation for Inspection

Hand Over Meeting
Meeting with Merchandiser/Technician/ HM QC must be held on a regular basis. Nominated QC will
get significant information regarding the style, fabric, samples, changes etc. during this meeting. If
possible a fitting should be done.
For the Independent QC, to be able to perform a proper inspection, this Hand Over Meeting is very
important.

Pre Production Meeting

Important:
• The Independent QC is required to attend all Pre Production Meetings.
• The meeting must include discussions regarding e.g. difficulties, important parts, changes,
machinery, pattern, fit etc.
• Records must always be kept from the meeting.
• Production can never start until the Pre Production Meeting is held.

Independent QC Equipment for Inspection

• Independent QC Order’s File, in laptop or paper file
- Accessory Trim Card
- Children Safety Risk Assessment
- Approved Colour Continuity Card
- All valid Lab Test Reports
- Data sheet (where necessary, Baby and Children)
- Bill of Material + care instructions
- Standard Colour and Approved Lab Dip (if any deviation from counter sample)
and rejected lots if any
- Swatch of Bulk Material with Correct Finishing (if any deviation from counter sample)
- Label Specification incl. PM tags and additional i nfo reg. e.g. warning tags
- Correct Size and Care Label Sample
- KC number (where necessary)
- Order Copy with Valid TOD’s + size break down/ packing list
- Technical Package (including e.g. flat sketches, artwork)
- Technical sketches/ Photos of Difficult Details (where necessary)
- Latest Measurement List approved for production
- Embroidery & print placement graded for each size (where necessary)
- QC Measurement Report Sheets
- C/s comments incl. trims and important comments from the sample handling
- Information Regarding Late Changes, e.g. Design, Measurement-, Colour Changes
- Inspection Reports from Earlier Inspections
- QC Inspection Report Sheets
- Assigned production unit
- Production planning
• Sealed Counter Sample for each colour
• Pre-production Meeting Record
• H&M Nominated QC Inspection Manual
• Measurement Tape in valid calibration, Scissors
• Nickel Test Kit
• Stickers for Marking Defects
• How to Measure Compendium
• Tolerances Compendium
• H&M Minimum Manufacturing Requirements/Product Specification Manual
• Body Measurement Sheet
• Size Translation
• Fit Guideline if available
• Children’s Safety Manual
• Packing ABC per product type and Packing instruction (PIM)

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General for All Inspections

• Work together with the Quality personnel in the factory responsible for the H&M order.
• Check the previous inspection reports from the same order.
• Compare the production to the sealed C/S.
• Check that material, weight, handfeel, stretchability etc. correspond with sealed c/s.
• Heavyknit: check weight of garments in all colours/ base size and compare average weight
with sealed c/s.
• Pick samples from bulk (mid production) for random QA tests when requested from PO.
• Randomly check wash test results from bulk when possible.
• Find and solve problems instantly during the inspection. Find the source of the problem and
prevent problems from reoccurring. Make e.g. Corrective Action Plan report if repeted
problems.
• Follow the Minimum Manufacturing Requirements when inspecting the order.
• Measure the QC measurements (see the How to Measure manual).
• Measurements must follow the H&M +/– agreed tolerances.
• Check that trims, labels, price tag, hang tag etc. agree to the trim card and/or approved
C/S.
• Perform the Nickel tests within H&M standards and write reports.
• Perform the Button tests and write reports.
• Perform the Children’s safety tests and write reports (on children’s order).
• Perform the Drop tests and write reports (on products where this is required).
• Perform the Functional tests and write reports (on products where this is required).
• For shoes with rubber sole: Perform OBA test according to Lab Manual
• Fit some garments on dummy or live model (preferably different sizes).
• Always use the H&M Initial-, Inline-, Final Inspection report sheets when writing reports.
• Explain the comments, faults or rejections to the quality responsible from factory.
• Make sure all involved employees in the factory
o get the message
o understand the explanation
o follow the information
• Send pictures or samples of faulty goods to H&M local PO when order is stopped.
• Check if correct transport carton size is used and that the goods are packed according to
Packing instruction manual and ABC Packing per product type.
• Inform suppliers packing responsible and concerned employees in packing area instantly
when problems occur (inform Packing responsible in H&M PO if needed).
• Make sure you have none colour deviation within one product/pair (on the entire order, colours
must be sorted out in “families” within approved standard, country wise).
• Smoking is totally prohibited near or in the same room as where H&M products exist.
• If requested send the Inspection reports/information regarding result to Merchandiser in
H&M PO. If not requested keep the Inspection reports at Supplier.

RQS
Many problems in production may have the source in the quality system.
The nominated QC should work closely with the suppliers RQS responsible and pass RQS related
problems found during inspections to the RQS responsible.

Amount of Inspections
On all TOD´s of an order initial and/or inline inspection, and final inspection must be made. If more
inspections needs to be done depends on following:
• Complexity level and type of product/design
• Capability of factory/ unit

Production Samples and How to Pick Production Samples

• Production samples must always be taken from the actual production line.
• Production samples must have all labels, price tags etc. attached and merchandise must be
folded as for delivery.
• If one order is produced at different Subcontractors/units, bring/send production samples
from all Subcontractors/units for tests at the Supplier. If asked for, send Reference Sample
to H&M local PO.
• Retail packed production samples must be folded according to Packing ABC and have
correct packing and correct information as for delivery.
• The production sample must be approved at H&M PO before any delivery can take place.

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Initial Inspection (include “General for all inspections”)

The Initial inspection should be carried out after a production of approximately 150–600 pieces
covering all sizes and colours. According to production setup it may also be one colour at the time
and jumping sizes.
When Nominated QC is doing Initial Inspection, she/he will be able to find and solve problems in
the very beginning of the production. NQC should preferably make the initial inspection together
with Sample Responsible.

• Start the Initial Inspection by checking the production plan/ status and the factory’s
inspection reports e.g. Trim inspection reports, Fabric/Material inspection reports.
• Check the production in all areas e.g. cutting-, stitching-, embroidery-, finishing-, pre assembling-
casting-, soldering-, plating-, spray colour coating area etc.
• Compare carefully production to the sealed C/S.
• Randomly the Independent QC must select the merchandise to inspect from the production
line.
• 50-150 pieces covering all sizes and colours (if possible acc. to setup) must be picked.
• On woven and knitted products: when needed cut the seams open, check against the paper
pattern and the Technical Package for comparison with the production.
• When garments, try some products on dummy or live model if possible. (preferably different
sizes)
• Mark the identified defects with stickers.
• Solve the problems together with the factory personnel instantly.
• Do the follow up (to be sure the products are produced the exact right way).
• Discuss Major and Minor defects with the Production Manager, Quality Manager, Line QC’s.
• Check if goods are packed according to Packing ABC per product type (if necessary contact
H&M Packing Responsible).
• Fill in the Initial Inspection Report and explain it to the responsible persons in the factory.
• Follow up the findings from the Initial Inspection Report in the following inspections.
• If required inform/send the report/result to H&M Merchandiser/QA Manager.
• Pick Production samples from production.

Number of pieces to be measured

Initial inspection 3 pieces per size across all colours in the shipment
(or one colour at the time acc. to production setup)
e.g. 6 sizes x 3 pieces across 4 colours=18 pieces
*only QC measurements (see How to Measure)

If any important QC measurement is out of the agreed tolerance, then a further 3 pieces of that
size/colour are to be measured for that specific measurement.
If one more piece is found outside the tolerance requirements, then the entire quantity for that
size/colour must be measured by the Supplier’s QC-team.

Inline Inspection (include “General for all inspections”)

The first Inline Inspection should preferably be carried out immediately or very soon after the
Initial inspection. When to do Inline Inspection depends on the quality of the products at previous
inspection.
If Nominated QC spends as much time as needed, doing early Inline Inspections for each specific
order, the products will be produced in a correct way.
• Start the Inline Inspection by checking the production plan/ status and the factory’s
inspection reports e.g. Trim inspection reports, Fabric/Material inspection reports.
• Check the production in all areas e.g. cutting-, stitching-, embroidery-, finishing-, pre
assembling-, casting-, soldering-, plating-, spray colour coating area etc.
• Compare carefully production to the sealed C/S.
• Randomly the Independent QC must select the merchandise to inspect from the production
line.
• 50-150 pieces covering all sizes and colours (if possible acc. to setup) must be picked.
• On woven and knitted products: when needed cut the seams open, check against the paper
pattern and the technical package for comparison with the production.
• When garments, try some products on dummy or live model if possible. (preferably different
sizes)
• Mark the identified defects with stickers.
• Solve the problems together with the factory personnel instantly.
• Do the follow up (to be sure products are produced the exact right way).

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• Discuss Major and Minor defects with the Production Manager, Quality Manager, Line QC’s.
• Check if goods are packed according to the Packing Instruction(PIM) and Packing ABC per
product type and H&M Packing instructions. Discuss packing problems with Suppliers
Packing Responsible and concerned employees.(if necessary contact H&M Packing responsible).
• Fill in the Inline Inspection report and explain it to the responsible persons in the factory.
• If required, inform/send the report/result to H&M Merchandiser/QA Manager.
• Pick Production samples from production, if possible from a transport carton.

Number of pieces to be measured

Inline inspection 2 pieces per size across all colours in the shipment
e.g. 6 sizes x 2 pieces across 4 colours=12 pieces
*only QC measurements (see How to Measure)

If any important QC measurement is out of the agreed tolerance, then a further 3 pieces of that
size/colour are to be measured for that specific measurement.
If one more piece is found outside the tolerance requirements, then the entire quantity for that
size/colour must be measured by the Supplier’s QC-team.

Final Inspection (include “General for all inspections”)

 Final inspection must take place when a minimum of 80% of the pieces are packed.
 Merchandise packed in retail packaging e.g. pantyhose, must be checked before they are
packed.
 Final inspections must be performed in a Quality Control room.
 The Quality Control room must have a big table where the controls will take place.
The Quality Control room must be lit up by fluorescent tube Daylight = D65, and have
TL 83 available. (nearby or over the table, based on different product groups needs
according to information from PO.)
 In this room only concerned people from factory should be present during inspection.
 Smoking is totally prohibited in the Quality Control room or near H&M Group products.

How to Choose Cartons

Total quantity/country Min. amount of cartons

< 2 000 1
> 2 000 < 5 000 2
> 5 000 < 10 000 3
> 10 000 < 15 000 4
> 15 000 < 25 000 5
> 25 000 <50 000 6
> 50 000 7

Example “How to choose cartons”.

TOD includes 4 countries,US 50% of the quantity, SE 30%, No 10%, DK 10%
Total quantity 100 000 pieces.
Following the AQL, 125 pieces must be picked.
Pick from the US portion 7 cartons(50 000 pcs.) 50% out of 125=63=9pcs/carton (9x7=63)
Pick from the SE portion 6 cartons(30 000 pcs.) 30% out of 125=38=6pcs/carton+2 (6x6=36+2=38)
Pick from the NO portion 4 cartons(10 000 pcs.) 10% out of 125=12=3pcs/carton (3x4=12)
Pick from the DK portion 4 cartons(10 000 pcs.) 10% out of 125=12=3pcs/carton (3x4=12)
Total 21 cartons

Start the inspection by checking the Factory’s QC Final Inspection reports, (to get an overview).
Compare the Factory’s QC Inspection reports with the Nominated QC Inspection reports.

The Nominated QC must from a working packing list print out, select the cartons to be inspected
according to suppliers internal markings.

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Due to electronic packing lists final carton marking will not be available until after final packing list
is submitted. Therefore suppliers are responsible to control that final carton marking and what is
inside carton corresponds with the final packing list.

The Independent QC must select the cartons to be inspected.

Control that all packed cartons are stored order-by–order, country-by-country fully positioned on
pallets.
Check that the cartons have the correct size and quality.
Always check cartons containing SS/SC (solid size/solid colour) and the cartons containing ASST
(assortments).
Control that all suggested improvements in earlier Nominated QC/ HM QC inspection reports have
been accomplished.
Pick from each country a minimum of one carton.
Pick more cartons than required and check the specific fault, if improvements not have been
accomplished.
Nominated QC must always pick up the merchandise from the cartons themselves.
Check that the goods are packed according to the H&M Packing instructions and H&M Packing ABC
per product type. (contact H&M Packing responsible if necessary)
Check that the quantity, colour and size of the items inside the carton correspond with the working
packing list and pre-carton markings.
Follow the AQL and pick the amount of pieces from the cartons.
Take the requested quantity to inspect from different levels in the cartons.
Make sure all colours and sizes are represented among the picked pieces to be controlled.

Number of pieces to be measured

Final inspection 2 pieces per size across all colours in the shipment
e.g. 5 sizes x 2 pieces across 5 colours=10 pieces
*only QC measurements (see How to Measure)

If any important QC measurement is out off the agreed tolerance, then a further 3 pieces of that
size/colour are to be measured for that specific measurement.
If one more piece is found outside the tolerance requirements, then the entire quantity for that
size/colour must be measured by the Supplier’s QC-team.

How to Choose Pieces

Master table for normal inspection, double sampling, general inspection, level I
Total order quantity H&M AQL 2.5
Inspection Quantity Accept No. Reject No.
No. 1 - 13 0
281-500 F No. 2 - 13 1 2
No. 1 - 20 1
501-1 200 G No. 2 - 20 3 4
No. 1 - 32 1
1 201-3 200 H No. 2 - 32 4 5
No. 1 - 50 2
3 201-10 000 J No. 2 - 50 6 7
No. 1 – 80 3
10 001-35 000 K No. 2 - 80 8 9
No. 1 - 125 5
35 001-150 000 L No. 2 - 125 12 13
No. 1 - 200 7
150 001-500 000 M No. 2 - 200 18 19
No. 1 - 315 11
500 001 and Over N No. 2 - 315 26 27

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Sample Quantity No. 1

Inspect the entire sample quantity

Defective pcs Action

≤ Accept No. Tot. order accepted, inspection finished
> Accept No. Continue with Sample Quantity 2

Sample Quantity No. 2

When rejected No. is reached, stop the inspection and reject the order.

Tot. number of defective pcs Action

From Quantity No.1 + Quantity No. 2
≤ Accept No. Total order accepted
≥ Reject No. Total order rejected

When an order is rejected inform the result and the action taken to the H&M’s Merchandiser, PQM,
Sr. QC and to the responsible personnel at the Supplier/Factory/Unit.

Definition of Defects
Critical, Major and Minor Defects
If a critical defect is found during inspection, the entire production must be rejected,
100% must be reinspected by the Supplier’s QC teams.

Critical Defects
• Goods that do not comply with H&M Chemical Restrictions
• Goods that do not comply with H&M Safety Requirements for Children´s wear and
H&M Safety Requirements for Children’s Accessories
• Information not readable and not in contrast colour printed directly on the goods
• Cartons found with insects, strong odor, moist products or objects apart
from packed H&M goods
Labeling:
• Care label/permanent marking/printed stickers/hangtags/retail package with
wrong composition
• Care label/permanent marking/printed stickers/hangtags/retail package
with wrong care instructions
• Incorrect or missing o/n on care label or price tag
• Missing Warning tags for different products/countries when required
• Wrong Country of Origin when required
• Wrong size information on label, price tag, hangtags and retail package
• Missing Warning symbols and/or Text on poly bags for Online (OL), size=
width minimum 19 cm opening (38 cm all around) and up
• Missing Recycle symbols on poly bags for Japan Online (OL) orders
• Missing or misspelt H&M Sweden address + countries that require
additional address + www.hm.com
• Missing or misspelt COS Sweden address + www.cosstores.com (on Cos order)
• Missing or misspelt & Other Stories Sweden address + www.stories.com (on
& Other Stories order)
• Missing or misspelt Weekday Sweden address + www.weekday.com (on
Weekday order)
• Missing or misspelt Monki Sweden address + www.monki.com (on Monki order)

The merchandiser is responsible to give all information regarding labelling.

Use the label specification to ensure that the product is labelled correctly.

Labelling information is updated very often. Pls always check carefully information given by the
merchandiser for each specific order.

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Major Defects
• When the defect is noticeable to the customer and visible when using the goods.
• When the defect does affect the quality of the goods.
• When the usefulness of the goods is affected.
• Loose and uncut threads and loose buttons.
• When the goods does not comply with the H&M Quality Standards and Requirements.
• When the order is not packed according to the Packing Instructions and the Packing ABC
per product type.

Minor Defects
• When the defect is not noticeable to the customer and visible when using the goods.
• When the defect does not affect the quality of the goods.
• When the usefulness does not affect the goods, but the quality is not up to approved
standard.

Judgment of Defects
• A combination of 3 minor defects concentrated in the same critical area will be treated as
1 major defect, (e.g. upper front part if it is a garment).
• If 1 major defect is found together with minor defects on the same product, the whole
product should be counted as 1 major defect.
• If consistent minor defects occur, which affect the overall appearance of the products, stop
the process and contact the H&M PO for further information (PQM, Sr. QC, Merchandiser,
Technician).

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