eyewitness travel

THAILAND
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

THAILAND
 Contents
Project Editor Rosalyn Thiro
Art Editors Ian Midson, David Rowley
How to Use This Guide 6
Editors Jonathan Cox, Marcus Hardy, Tim Hollis,
Lesley McCave, Sean O’Connor
US Editors Mary Sutherland, Michael Wise
Designers Susan Blackburn, Des Hemsley, Tim Mann,
Malcolm Parchment, Adrian Waite
Map Coordinators Emily Green, David Pugh
Researcher Warangkana Nibhatsukit

Contributors
Philip Cornwel-Smith, Andrew Forbes, Tim Forsyth, Rachel Harrison, David Henley,
John Hoskin, Gavin Pattison, Jonathan Rigg, Sarah Rooney, Ken Scott

Photographers
Philip Blenkinsop, Stuart Isett, Kim Sayer, Michael Spencer

Illustrators
Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Richard Draper,
Roger Hutchins, Chris Orr & Assocs, John Woodcock

Printed and bound in China Lakshman and Sita, characters

First American edition, 1997 from the Ramakien
16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Published in the United States by: DK Publishing, Introducing

345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Thailand
Reprinted with revisions 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002,
2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016 Discovering Thailand 10
Copyright © 1997, 2016 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House company
Putting Thailand on
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, the Map 18
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval
system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission A Portrait of Thailand 24
of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Thailand
ISSN 1542-1554 through the Year 52
ISBN 978-1-4654-4130-0
The History of Thailand 56
Transliteration of Thai words in this book mostly follows the
General System recommended by the Thai Royal Institute, but visitors
will encounter many variant spellings in Thailand. Bangkok
Throughout this book, floors are referred to in accordance
with European usage, i.e. the “first floor” is one floor up.
Introducing Bangkok 76

Old City 80

Chinatown 98

The information in this

Dusit 104
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly/annually.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible Downtown 114
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com.

Front cover main image: A view of the chedi at Wat Chana Songkhram, Sukhothai Wat Pan Tao in Chiang Mai
Replica of the Sanphet Prasat Palace, Ayutthaya’s lost monument, in Ancient City, Bangkok
 Travelers’ Needs
Where to Stay 398

Where to Eat 412

Shopping in
Thailand 434

Entertainment in
Thailand 442

Hat Maenam, a beach on Ko Samui in the Gulf of Thailand

Outdoor Activities &
Special Interests 446
Thon Buri 126 Khorat Plateau 272
Survival Guide
Farther Afield 134 Mekong River
Valley 286 Practical
Shopping in Bangkok 142 Information 458
The Gulf of Travel Information 472
Entertainment in
Bangkok 146 Thailand
General Index 482
Introducing the Gulf
Street Finder 148
of Thailand 310 Acknowledgments 506
The Central Eastern Seaboard 316 Phrase Book 508
Plains
Western Seaboard 328
Introducing the
Central Plains 162 Southern
South Central Thailand
Plains 168
Introducing Southern
Thailand 348
North Central
Plains 190
Upper Andaman
Coast 356
Northern
Thailand Deep South 378

Introducing Northern
Thailand 208

Northwest Heartland 216

Far North 242

Northeast
Thailand
Introducing Northeast The Khmer shrine
Thailand 266 at Phimai
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from sights, using maps, pictures, and illustrations.
your vacation in Thailand. It provides Features cover topics from architecture
detailed practical information and expert and crafts to wildlife and sports. Hotel and
recommendations. Introducing Thailand restaurant recommendations are found
maps the country and sets it in its historical in Travelers’ Needs. The Survival Guide
and cultural context. The five regional has information on everything from
chapters, plus Bangkok, describe important transportation to personal safety.

Bangkok
The center of Bangkok has
THON BURI
known originally as Ban kok (“village of the
wild plum”), Thon Buri was the capital of
sleepier version of Bangkok proper. The
best way to explore Thon Buri is by boat.
Bangkok  127

1 Area Map
For easy reference, the sights
are numbered and located on
been divided into five sight­ Thailand for 15 years between 1767 and 1782.
When Rama I moved his capital across the
river its original name followed, and, though
Meandering down the intricate network of
canals, the visitor sees scenes of river life –
stilt houses, small temples, mansions, and a map. Sights in the city center
Thais refer to the capital as krung Thep, it floating shops. on khlong Bangkok noi is

seeing areas. Each has its remains known as Bangkok to foreigners.

Thon Buri wasn’t linked by bridge to Bangkok
until 1932 and was officially incorporated
the Royal Barge Museum with its lavishly
decorated boats. Farther south there are
some interesting riverside wats along the
are also marked on the Street
own chapter, which opens into the city only in 1971. Today this area
preserves a distinct identity, offering a
Chao Phraya River, the most prominent
and famous of which is Wat arun. Finder on pages 148–59.
with a list of the sights
Sights at a Glance
Wats and Churches 7 Church of Santa Cruz Monuments
1 Wat Suwannaram 8 Wat Prayun 9 Taksin Monument
4 Wat Rakhang

described. The Farther Afield

Museums
5 Wat Arun pp130–31
2 Royal Barge Museum
6 Wat Kanlayanimit
3 Museums at the Siriraj Hospital

All pages relating to Bangkok have

SO

section covers the best

M
D
G

ET
N
O

the same colored thumb tabs.

PH
W

RA
IT
N
SA

PI
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sights outside the center.

ITP
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AD
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KL
IPR
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IN
A

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AR
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S A SO
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All sights are numbered and

Ba
ng
ko
k N oi
Bangkok Noi/
Thon Buri Thon Buri

Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s

NIKHOM
WAT W I S E TK

B A N P H A K ROTFAI Railway Station

ITSARAPHAP

Pier
ITS
AR SOI Siriraj
SOI AN

plotted on an area map. The

AP
47 HA
P
Wang Lang

sights by category: Wats and Palaces;

K
PHRANNO (Siriraj)
PHRANNOK
SOI BAN C H A N G LO

SOI SALA
TONCHA
I
ARUN

Wat

information for each sight Museums and Monuments; Parks and

SOI Rakhang
IT S ARAPHAP 44
AMARIN

follows the map’s numerical Districts; Markets and Notable Roads.

ITS

n
Mo
Ch
AR

ong
See also Street Finder
K hl
AP

ao

A
RU pp148–59
HA

N
P

AM

order, making sights easy to

Wat Arun
YU KS

AR
SO A
SU
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IN

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A locator map shows where

DO
NG h
WA
W
ra
AT ya
KA
P

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HA

locate within the chapter.

LA I Din
28 AP

you are in relation to other

Daeng
ITS SO I

AI 1
YA
AR

N S
I
MA

BA ET 3
SA A
ET
PR D
AYA

O SOM
AY

TH
POK

IT AB A N Wat
0 meters 500 E TS 2
PH

SA T H SA I Thong
S OI

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RA
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areas of the city center.

EN

PH THETS A B A N SO
AI

0 yards 500 MD
SAI 3
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A ET
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P
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SOM

S OH AO CH
ITS C Khlong
AR
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APH San
TH

AP YA
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Central prang at Wat Arun, Thon Buri For keys to symbols see back flap

116  bangkok downtown  117

Street-by-Street: Old Farang Harmonique restaurant is

one of a row of Chinese shop-
The China House,
one of Bangkok’s most DusiT

Quarter houses built around 1900. expensive restaurants, is in

2
a building dating from the

Street-by-Street Map
To Portuguese Embassy reign of King Vajiravudh CHiNATOWN
and GPO (see p71). The structure next DOWNTOWN
this area was bangkok’s original port and foreign commercial district in door, the Commercial Co.
the 19th century. In 1820 Portugal was granted land in bangkok, which of Siam, was erected in

This gives a bird’s­eye view of

resulted in the construction of the Portuguese Embassy. Embassies of the same era.
other countries, such as France, soon followed. these outside influences
created an amalgam of western and Eastern architectural styles. Locator Map
34

see street Finder map 6

the key areas in each chapter.

Charoen krung (new) Road, the first road in thailand to be paved,
I
SO

cuts through the old Farang Quarter and is home to gem

traders, tailors, and antique dealers. the elegant assumption 2 . Assumption Cathedral
Cathedral faces bangkok’s only European-style square. This elegantly decorated cathedral
was built in 1910. The cathedral’s
the Quarter’s back streets are surprisingly quiet and Rococo interior features a high,
contain some attractive wooden houses. C vaulted ceiling and a striking
H
A marble altar from France.

Stars indicate the sights

R
O
36

E
N
I

K
SO

R
U
N

that no visitor should miss.

G
38

)
I

40
SO

I
O

M
(S

LO
UE

O
RI
SI

EN
EN

0 meters 50
House of Gems TA
L
AV

is a tiny shop/museum selling rocks and LA 0 yards 50

fossils. Geological oddities – such as N

E
L
TA

dinosaur droppings and tektites (glassy

SO

meteorites) – can be seen here.

EN

I
42
RI

/1
O

The Old Customs

House was built
in the 1880s. 2
I 4
Its exterior is SO
The French Embassy
now crumbling. features pitched roofs
and carved verandas.

To Taksin
44
I Bridge
SO

110  bangkok dusit  111 Bangrak

8 Chitrlada Palace

Ratchawithi & Rama V rds. Map 3 B2.
@ 18, 28; AC: 510. Closed to public.
The permanent residence of
the king and queen is an early
20th-century palace set in
extensive grounds (closed to
the public), east of Dusit Zoo.
Although the palace is hidden
from view, the buildings used
by King Bhumibol (Rama IX) for
agricultural and industrial
experiments are visible. In
1993 he became the
first monarch in
the world to earn a
patent – for a waste
water aerator.
The grounds also
contain the Chitrlada
School, for children of
the royal family. A portrait of King
The perimeter of the Bhumibol
palace is illuminated
from the King’s Birthday (Dec 5)
to New Year.
9 Phitsanulok Road 12:30pm to 6:30pm every other

Mission Hospital at the
Sawankhalok Road end, the first
of interest is Ban Phitsanulok.
This mansion has been the
official residence of the prime
minister since it was restored in
1982. It was originally built in
1925 by Rama VI for Major
General Phraya Aniruttheva.
Designed by the same Italian
architects who built the Ananta
Samakorn Throne Hall (see p109),
it is a riot of Venetian Gothic,
with floral-shaped mullioned
windows, spindly
crenellations, and a
sweeping curved
wing. It is not open
to the public, and
guests rarely stay
overnight because
the mansion is
supposedly haunted.
On the opposite
side of the road is
the grassy oval of the
Royal Turf Club, one
of Bangkok’s two major horse-
racing tracks (see p121). Races
alternate between the two
tracks, and are held here from
Sunday. The stands fill with
bettors from all levels of Thai
The Haroon Mosque Market
is a quaint stucco building with a
Muslim graveyard. The mosque, which
faces Mecca, is off a street lined with q Ratchadamnoen
The East Asiatic
wooden houses.
Avenue Company building is a
Shangri-La
Venetian-style edifice Hotel
 constructed in 1901.
Map 1 D4. @ 15, 33, 39, 70, 159, 201;
AC: 511, 503,
1 . Mandarin 157, 170,Hotel
Oriental 183. Wat Suan Phu
The world-renowned
Planned by King Mandarin
Mongkut Oriental Hotel was Key is distinguished by its carved
established in 1876 by two Danish sea captains. In 1958 wooden buildings and the Phra
(Rama IV) in the style of a Suggested route
a new structure (the Tower Wing) was added, and in 1976 Bodhisattva Kuan-Im, a Chinese
European boulevard, this
the ten-story River Wing opened. shrine over a carp pond.
thoroughfare has three parts.
Filling in the results at the end of a race at For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33 The first section, Ratcha-
the Royal Turf Club damnoen Nai (“inner”), starts at
Lak Muang and skirts Sanam
the first or second weekend Luang (see pp82–3), before veer-
of January. ing east at the Royal Hotel as
Government House, to the Ratchadamnoen Klang-
west, just past the Nakhon
Pathom Road turning, is a
fanciful, cream-colored Neo-
(“middle”). From here it passes
the Democracy Monument
(see p91) and 1930s mansions –
A suggested route for
Venetian style building. It is
now used to house the prime
minister’s office, and it is
a vista featured in the movie
Good Morning, Vietnam.
Just across Khlong
a walk is shown in red.
closed to the public. Banglamphu, Ratchadamnoen
Nok (“outer”) turns north into the
Dusit area. This stretch, shaded by
0 Wat Benchama- trees, is flanked by ministries, the
bophit main TAT headquarters and
Ratchadamnoen Boxing
 Stadium (see p49). Just before
Singhas guarding the entrance to Wat Benchamabophit the ornate double bridge over
69 Rama V Rd. Map 3 A3.
Tel 0-2281-2501. @ 3, 16, 23, 505.
Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem is
Naris and the Italian architect in which Rama V lived as a the Thai-influenced modern
Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. &
Hercules Manfredi to design a monk features murals depicting building of the United Nations

3
Map 2 E2. @ 16, 23, 201, 505.
society. Experiencing the banter European influence on Thai new bot and cloister for the events that occurred during Economic and Social Commission

A number of important state
institutions are located along
this major avenue, which cuts
through the heart of Dusit.
Traveling northwest past the
Royal White Elephants
The importance of the white elephant (chang samkhan) in Thailand derives from a 2,500-year-old
tale. Queen Maya, once barren, became pregnant with the future Buddha after dreaming of a white
and furious betting can often be
as much fun as watching the
race itself. The most prominent
annual event that takes place
here is the King’s Cup, also
known as the Derby Cup, on
architecture (see p39) is exem-
plified by Wat Benchamabophit,
the last major temple to be
built in central Bangkok. In 1899
King Chulalongkorn (Rama V)
commissioned his brother Prince
original Ayutthaya-period
temple which stood on the
site. The nickname for the
new wat (“Marble Temple”) is
derived from the gray Carrara
marble used to clad the walls.
Laid out in cruciform with
cascading roof levels, the bot
is elegantly proportioned.
It contains another successful
fusion of traditions: intricate
his reign.
Wat Benchamabophit is a
popular location for
witnessing monastic rituals,
from Buddhist holiday
processions to the daily alms
round (see p133), in which
merit-makers donate food to
the monks lined up outside the
wat along Nakhon Pathom
Road. This is a reversal of the
Detailed Information
for Asia and the Pacific (ESCAP).
The avenue ends at the
domed Ananta Samakhom
Throne Hall (see p109), which
looms up beyond the Chula-
longkorn Equestrian Statue in
the parade ground, the site of
The sights in Bangkok
are described individually.
December’s Trooping of the
Colors ceremony (see p55).
Ratchadamnoen Avenue is
decorated and illuminated in

Addresses, telephone numbers,

elephant entering her womb. Ever since the 13th century, when King Ramkamhaeng gave the Victorian-style stained-glass usual practice where the monks December as part of King
animal great prestige, the reigning monarch’s windows depicting scenes go out in search of alms. Bhumibol’s birthday festivities.
importance has been judged in part according from Thai mythology. In the
to the number of white elephants he owns. room of the ashes of Rama V

opening hours, and other

Indeed, the white elephant’s status as a is the most revered copy of
national icon was symbolized by its presence Phitsanulok’s Phra Buddha
on the Siamese flag until 1917. The origin of
Chinarat (see pp164–5), with a
the phrase “white elephant,” meaning a large,

practical information are

Old manuscript depicting a white elephant
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
pointed halo. In the cloister are
useless investment, lies in the Thai tradition
according to which all white elephants must 53 different Buddha images,
belong to the king. They cannot be used for originals and copies of images
work and, therefore, have to be cared for at from around Thailand and other
huge expense. Though referred to as white,
the elephants are not fully albino. But tradition
states that seven parts of their body – the eyes,
palate, nails, tail hair, skin, hairs, and testicles –
Buddhist countries, assembled
by Rama V.
Within the wat is one of the
three sets of doors inlaid with
also provided. The key to
must be close to white. mother-of-pearl that were
salvaged from Wat Borom Buddh-
aram in Ayutthaya. The building Annual Trooping of the Colors ceremony, Ratchadamnoen Avenue
the symbols used is on the
European-inspired Wat Benchamabophit
back flap of the book.

Thailand Area by Area
Apart from Bangkok, Thailand
has been divided into 10
regions, each of which has a
separate chapter. The most
interesting towns and places
to visit have been numbered
on a Regional Map.
Each area of Thailand can be
identified quickly by its color coding,
shown on the inside front cover.
2
Regional Map
This shows the main road
network and gives an
illustrated overview of the
whole region. All entries
are numbered, and there
are also useful tips on
getting around the region
by car, train, and other
forms of transportation.
276  northeast thailand
Nong Prachak Park, one of the more peaceful parts of Udon Thani
1 Udon Thani

Udon Thani province. * 170,000.
~ £ @ n TAT, Mukmontri Rd,
Udon Thani (0-4232-5406). ( daily.
During the Vietnam War Udon
Thani changed from a sleepy
provincial capital into a
booming support center
for a nearby American
airbase. Since the
withdrawal of the GIs
in 1976, Udon has
retained a little of that
past vibrancy, together
with some rather
nondescript streets,
Ban Chiang pot,
lined with Western-
style coffee shops, c.2000 BC
nightclubs, and
massage parlors. It has
continued to grow as an
industrial and commercial
center within the region.
The most attractive part of
town is Nong Prachak Park,
where there are some open-air
restaurants. The town makes a
good base for travelers wanting
to visit nearby Ban Chiang.
2 Ban Chiang

Udon Thani province. * 4,680.
@ from Udon Thani. n TAT, Udon
Thani (0-4232-5406). ( daily.
The principal attraction for
visitors to Ban Chiang is its
archaeological site (see pp58–9) .
It was discovered by accident
in 1966 by an American
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
4 Thailand’s Top Sights
These are given one or more
full pages. Three-dimensional
illustrations reveal the layouts and
interiors of historic monuments.
Interesting town and city centers
are given street by street maps,
featuring individual sights.
Here the main exhibits are
graves containing skeletal
remains and ceramics used
for symbolic purposes in burial.
Bodies were wrapped in
perishable material and laid
on their backs. Pots were then
arranged along the edge of the
grave and over the bodies
themselves. Other grave goods
found at the burial site include
pig skulls and mandibles,
jewelry, tools, weapons,
and river pebbles.
Research associated with the
discoveries at Wat Pho Si Nai
indicates that the inhabitants
of Ban Chiang were a strong,
sociologist who tripped long-legged people with wide
over some remains. The finds foreheads and prominent
provided archaeological cheekbones with an average
evidence that northeast
Thailand may have been one
of the world’s earliest centers
life expectancy of 31 years.
The main causes of death were
diseases such as malaria. As with
of bronze production. other early peoples of Southeast
Spearheads from the site are Asia, the exact ethnic origins of
thought to date from around the population of Ban Chiang
3600 BC, while ceramics, dating remain a mystery.
from between 3000 BC
and AD 500, testify to E Ban Chiang National Museum
a high degree of On edge of Ban Chiang. Tel 0-4220-
technical and 8340. Open 9am–4pm Wed–Sun. &
artistic skill.
Today, a collection
of these artifacts is on 3 Khon Kaen
display, together with 
ornaments such as
bangles and rings, Khon Kaen province. * 240,000. ~
at the Ban Chiang £ @ n TAT, 15/5 Prachasamoson
National Museum.
A short walk from the
museum, 1 mile (2 km) through
dusty streets lined with quaint
Rd, Khon Kaen (0-4324-4498). (
daily. _ Silk Festival (10 days Nov/
Dec). ∑ khonkaen.com
wooden shop-houses, two
covered excavation sites lie in
the grounds of Wat Pho Si Nai.
Once the quiet capital of one of
the poorest provinces in the
northeast of Thailand, this place
Khon Kaen National Museum, home to Ban Chiang and Dvaravati relics
Story boxes explore
related topics.
1
274  northeast thailand
Exploring the Khorat Plateau
the khorat plateau occupies most of northeast thailand. it is a broad
stretch of barren, arid hills some 985 ft (300 m) above sea level,
separated from the Central plains to the west by the phetchabun
mountain range. Much of the region is characterized by red earth
and scrub forest. khorat city, regarded as the gateway to the
northeast, is the center of the region’s transportation network.
other towns and sights of interest in the region can be reached
by road from here, though distances are
considerable. north of khorat lie the
towns of khon kaen and roi et; farther
north still, the prehistoric site of Ban
Chiang. east of khorat the main
attractions are the khmer temples
of phimai and phnom rung. nearby
are ta klang and surin, which are
linked to the elephant trade.
Sights at a Glance
1 Udon Thani
2 Ban Chiang
3 Khon Kaen
4 Roi Et
5 Yasothon
6 Prasat Hin Phimai (see pp280–81)
7 Khorat
8 Dan Kwian
9 Prasat Ta Muen and Prasat Ta
Muen Tot
0 Prasat Hin Muang Tam
q Prasat Hin Khao Phnom Rung
(see pp284–5)
w Surin
e Ban Ta Klang
hasThechanged Prasat Hin Phimai 4 Roi Et
into a bustling
exquisitely restored
town. Located at the heart of
the region, it has consequently
For hotels andof restaurants
been a focus regionalsee pp402–11 and
development projects – the
town now boasts the largest
university in the northeast, in
addition to its own television
studios. There are a number of
modern hotels and shopping
complexes, all of which nestle
rather incongruously among
the town’s more traditional
streets and market places.
Places of interest to tourists
include Khaen Nakhon Lake,
an artifical lake beside which
are some restaurants. Khon
Kaen National Museum has a
collection of Ban Chiang
artifacts and a number of
Dvaravati (see pp60–61) stelae
carved with excerpts from the
life of the Buddha, as well as
examples of local folk art.
The Khaen
Originating in Laos, and played widely in Northeast Thailand, the
khaen is a large, free-reed panpipe and is constructed primarily of
bamboo. Although the length and pitch of the khaen are not
standardized, the number of pipes and the tuning are. Each khaen
is pitched according either to the personal preference of the player,
or to the range of the singer it accompanies, and has a range of
two octaves – this gives a total of 15 pitches. Whereas most arts in
Thailand are formally taught, khaen players tend to learn their skills
by listening to relatives and neighbors in the village. There is no
written music for the khaen, its repertoire having been passed
down through oral transmission. It was traditionally played by
young men on their way to woo their sweethearts or by blind
beggars in the hope of receiving a few coins for their
performances. Women never play the khaen.
Phin (a type of guitar)
Orchestra with khaen, phin, and ponglang players
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
northeast thailand  273
Introduction
KHORAT PLATEAU
The landscape and though one of the most infertile areas of thailand, and home to
character of each the nation’s poorest people, the Khorat Plateau is rich in culture and
historic sites from the days when the Khmer empire held sway over
the region. the people are welcoming, the cuisine fiery hot, often
region is outlined here, served with glutinous rice and raw vegetables, and the silk and
cotton handicrafts are exquisite.
showing how the area has The vast, sandstone Khorat Plateau world where rice growing, bronze making,
dominates the Northeast, a region that the and silk weaving were pioneered.
developed and what it has
Thais call Isan. The plateau, which is about Silk production has flourished again since
660 ft (200 m) above sea level, takes up the mid-20th century, and visitors are
almost a third of Thailand’s land mass and drawn to modern-day weaving villages
to offer the visitor today. is home to about a third of the population.
The uneven rainfall of the region causes
where a wide range of silk and cotton
goods are sold.
both floods and droughts and permits the In the 9th century AD, the Khorat
cultivation of only one rice crop per year.
As a result there is much rural poverty.
Although few tourists visit the region,
Plateau came under Cambodian control,
which was to endure until the end of the
13th century. It was during this period
there is much of historical interest to be
discovered. To the north, at Ban Chiang,
lies a site that has revolutionized
that the region’s splendid Khmer temples
were built. The magnificent stone temples
at Phnom Rung and Phimai, which once
archaeologists’ views of prehistoric stood on a road linking the plateau with
Southeast Asia. The Northeast is now the Khmer capital of Angkor, have now
thought to be one of the first areas in the been evocatively restored.
k h o r at p l at e au  275
Nong Khai
UDON
BAN CHIANG
THANI
Sakhon
Nakhon
Nong Bualamphu
Wang Sam Mo
Lom Sak
Si Buan Ruang
Nam
Lam Pao
Reservoir
Bun Bang Fai (Rocket Festival), celebrated each year at Yasothon
Ubon Rai Pong
Sakhon Nakhon
Phitsanulok
Reservoir Kranuan
Po
an
Khon San Chumphae
g
Yang
Phetchabun Nong KHON Ta Lat Getting Around
Rua KAEN Kalasin
i
The Khorat Plateau is well served by air-
Phu Khiaw Bung Phlan Chai, a scenic lake in the centerconditioned
of Roi Et town buses, which operate between
oe
g H
Maha Ch
Statue in the Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Morchit)
Na Yom Mancha Sarakham icentral sanctuary at Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung
and most towns and cities in the region.
Phan
Kiri
Na Chan Ban Phai ROI ET Selaphum Local bus services connect small towns
and villages. Journey times tend to be
i
Ch long because of distances and poor
m
Nong Phai quality of roads. The rail route from
La
Wapi YASOTHON Bangkok divides into two main
Chaiyaphum Lat Yai Pathum
Pho Yai sections at Khorat: it runs east
toward Ubon Ratchathani in the
Yang Si Surat
Suwannaphum Mekong River Valley (see pp306–7)
and northeast to Udon Thani and
Pa S
Bua Yai
Don Mo Phayakkhaphum Nong Khai close to the border with
ak
Nong Bua Phisai Mun
Kaeng Laos. Khorat, Khon Kaen, Buriram and
Khok Mun
Satuk
BAN TA KLANG Roi Et all have domestic airports. There
i
are relatively few organized tours available
Ch
Khu Muang
Dan Khun to the region from Bangkok.
Nam
Ubon
Thot PRASAT HIN Ratchathani
Chai Badan PHIMAI
Lam
La
Buri Ram
m
Bangkok Key
Pla
KHORAT Sikhoraphum
i Mal
SURIN Expressway
Lam Thakong Major road
Reservoir DAN KWIAN
Minor road
Nang Prasat Scenic route
Pak Thong Chai Rong Prakhon
Railway
Bangkok
PRASAT HIN KHAO PHNOM RUNG
International border
n
Mu
PRASAT HIN PRASAT TA MUEN AND
MUANG TAM PRASAT TA MUEN TOT
Thap Lan
National Khao Chong Tako
Pa r k
Ta Phraya
Chachoengsao
0 kilometers
k h o r at p l at e au
50
 277
0 miles 25 Aranyaprathet
Elephants at Surin, part of the mass roundup
 (see p282) that takes place annually
For keys to symbols see back flap
pp418–33
Roi Et province. * 119,000. k @
n TAT, Khon Kaen (0-4324-4498).
( daily.
Founded in 1782, Roi Et literally
means “one hundred and one,” a
3
name that is thought to be an
exaggeration of 11, the number
of vassal states over which the
town once ruled. Today it is a
steadily growing provincial
Detailed Information
capital. The modern skyline is
dominated by an immense
brown and ocher image of the
The Phraphuttha-rattana-mongkol-
maha-mani image at Roi Et
All the important towns
and other places to visit are
Lord Buddha, the Phraphuttha-
rattana-mongkol-maha-mani, the tallest in the world. The
which is situated within the climb up the statue offers an
grounds of Wat Buraphaphi­ impressive view of the town
ram. Measuring 225 ft (68 m)
from its base to the tip of its
flame finial, this giant standing
and surrounding area. Silk and
cotton are both good buys in
Roi Et and can be found along
described individually. They
are listed in order, following
Buddha is reputed to be one of Phadung Phanit Road.
the numbering on the
Regional Map. Within each
entry, there is detailed
Craftsmen assemble the khaen from
bamboo reeds dried in the sun. Wax
information on important
Ponglang (a type of
xylophone)
Khaen
from the khisut, an insect, is used to
glue the reeds together and attach
them to the carved windchest.
buildings and other sights.
The khaen consists
varying lengths of
bamboo, each producing
For all the top sights,
a different pitch.
Holes in the reeds
are fingered to
a Visitors’ Checklist provides the practical
create different
levels of pitch.
information you need to plan your visit.
Notes are made by
blowing into this
carved windchest.
280  nORTHeAST THAIlAnD K H O R AT P l AT e Au  281
6 Prasat Hin Phimai . Northern Porch
The centerpiece of the northern porch
ViSiToRS’ CHECKLiST
 is this lintel depicting a three-headed, Practical Information
In the small town of Phimai, on the banks of the Mun River, six-armed Vajarasattva. Below him Centre of Phimai town, Khorat
crouch a group of dancing girls. province. Tel 0-4447-1568.
lies one of Thailand’s most extensively restored Khmer temple
complexes. There is no definitive date for the construction
of this temple, but the central sanctuary is likely to have been
n TAT, Khorat (0-4421-3666).
open 7am–6pm daily. &
_ Phimai Temple Festival (Nov).
completed during the reign of Suryavarman I (1001–49).
Transport
Prasat Hin Phimai lies on what was once a direct route to ~ £ @ Khorat, then
the Khmer capital at Angkor, and, unusually, is oriented songthaew.
in a southeasterly direction to face that city. Originally a
Brahmanic shrine dedicated to Shiva, Prasat Hin Phimai was
. Northern
rededicated as a Mahayana Buddhist temple at the end of Pediment
the 12th century. Its famous lintels and pediments depict This scene from the
scenes from the Ramayana (see p44), and, unique among Ramayana includes
Khmer temples, Buddhist themes. Restoration of the site Vishnu holding a
Front View of Central Sanctuary conch, a lotus, a
was carried out by the Fine Arts Department in 1964–9. discus, and a staff.
The white sandstone edifice is
topped with a rounded prang,
the style of which may have
Naga Bridge influenced the builders of
This symbolic bridge leads Angkor Wat (see pp268–9).
to the main entrance
of the temple complex.
The line of nagas that
flank either side of the
bridge are mythical Central Sanctuary
guardian spirits. The word prasat, which is used
to refer to the central sanctuary,
also describes the temple
complex as a whole. . Buddha under Naga
Seated atop a coiled
naga and protected
by an umbrella formed
by the beast’s head,
this reproduction of a
13th-century Buddha is in
KEY
the Bayon (see p268) style.
1 Mandapa (hallway of main
entrance)
2 Rama and Lakshman appear on
the lintel over the western entrance
to the mandapa. They have been
Southern Pediment
tied up with a naga. The monkeys
The southern pediment of the Plan of Complex
below despair, while above them a
mandapa shows a dancing 1 Central sanctuary
garuda (a mythical creature, half bird,
Shiva, a classic Khmer theme.
half human) and more monkeys 2 Inner compound
His mount, Nandin the bull, 3 Outer compound
come to the rescue.
is to the right.
4 Royal pavilions
3 Rama and his monkeys,
5 Gopuras (entrance pavilions)
building the causeway to Lanka –
a scene from the Ramayana 6 Naga (serpent) bridge
(see p44) – can be seen on the 5
western pediment of the prang.
4 Prang (tower)
5 The God of Justice, on the
pediment of the eastern porch, Novice Monks 5 4
3
2
1 5
judges a feud between Rama and Though Prasat Hin
Tosakan (see p45), good and evil. Phimai does not
6 Trilokayavijaya, the most function as a working
important Mahayana Bodhisattva Pilaster with Vajarasattva wat, it is sometimes
(Enlightened being), can be seen on
the interior lintel of the eastern porch.
On the southern face of the mandapa, this pilaster
shows a Vajarasattva (guardian spirit), holding
a thunderbolt and a bell, protecting the door.
the setting for
Buddhist gatherings
and celebrations.
5
6
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
INTRODUCING
THAILAND

Discovering Thailand 10–17

Putting Thailand on the Map 18–23
A Portrait of Thailand 24–51
Thailand Through the Year 52–55
The History of Thailand 56–73
10  INTrOduCINg THAILANd
Discovering ThailanD
The following tours have been designed
to cover the best areas for experiencing
the many pleasures of Thailand while
keeping long-distance travel to a minimum.
The two-day tours introduce Thailand’s
main cities, Bangkok and Chiang Mai.
Next, a one-week tour north from Chiang
Mai introduces the rural and culturally
diverse highlands. The country’s rich
historical past is uncovered in a one-week
tour of the capitals of four kingdoms that
have flourished here, from the Sukhothai
kingdom in the north, founded in the
A Week in the Far North of Thailand
•
Raft the Mae Taeng
River and trek
through the jungle
astride an elephant.
•
Enjoy a nature walk
or visit sacred caves
in Chiang Dao.
•
Sample fragrant
Chinese tea, grown
in the mountain-top
village of Mae Salong.
•
Admire spectacular views
from the temple of Wat
Phra That Doi Tung.
Thailand’s Southern
Beaches
•
See the bright lights of
Patong after dark, and enjoy
a tranquil seafood dinner on
the waterfront.
•
Cruise on a long-tail boat
among the limestone
stacks and sea caves of
Phangnga Bay.
•
Watch the sun set at the
Big Buddha statue on
Bangrak beach.
•
Wander through the historic
streets of Phuket Town.
•
Ride an elephant and explore
Ko Samui’s interior jungles,
mountains and caves.
Mural paintings at the Grand Palace, Bangkok
13th century, to the current Chakri dynasty,
which has ruled from Bangkok since 1782.
A one-week itinerary in the northeast covers
areas of both cultural interest and great
natural beauty. Of course, no trip to Thailand
is complete without sampling the country’s
superb beaches and islands. The final two
itineraries cover a week on the shores
of the Eastern Seaboard (a short trip from
Bangkok) and a week on the spectacular
beaches of Southern Thailand. Follow and
combine your favorite tours, or simply
seek inspiration.
Ancient Capitals
of Thailand
•
Shop in the busy •
Explore the magnificent
market of Mae Sai, royal sites of Bangkok.
where Thailand and •
Wander through the former
Myanmar (Burma) meet. splendor of Ayutthaya,
•
Discover the history of the capital of Siam
the Golden Triangle at before Bangkok.
the fascinating House •
Cycle through the majestic
of Opium museum. temples of Sukhothai, the
•
Gaze across the Mekong first capital of Siam.
River from the historical •
Enjoy the little-visited
town of Chiang Saen. splendor of the ancient city
•
Take in the elaborate of Si Satchanalai.
woodcarvings of Wat •
Delve into the history
Phra Kaeo in Chiang Rai. of the northern capital
Chiang Mai, and visit the
city’s many wats.
0 kilometers 100
0 miles 100
Wat Phra Kaeo in Bangkok, home to the famous Emerald Buddha
 discovering THAiLAnd  11

Key
A Week on the
A Week in the Far North
of Thailand
Eastern Seaboard
Mae Sai
Sop Ruak Ancient Capitals of •
Find a slice of paradise on
Doi Tung
Mae Salong Chiang Saen Thailand Ko Wai, one of numerous
Chiang Rai Thailand’s Southern pristine islets south of
Beaches
Doi Chiang M ekong Ko Chang.
Dao
A Week on the Eastern
Seaboard
•
Walk the entire east coast of
Mae Wiang
Taeng Pa Pao tiny Ko Samet, discovering
A Week in Thailand’s
Northeast each bay’s unique character.
Chiang Nan
Mai •
Taste fresh spring rolls in the
n
Na Vietnamese Quarter of
Lampang Mekon
Than Thip g Chanthaburi.
Chiang Falls
Khan •
Dive into dense jungle to
Nong Khai
Pi ng

reach Ko Chang’s Khlong

Si Satchanalai Phu Rua Loei Phlu waterfall.
National Park Nakhon
Phanom •
Snorkel over shipwrecks
Sukhothai in Ao Sa Lak Phet.
Phu Kradung
National Park Mukdahan

THAILAND
Ch
i

Prasat Hin
Phimai
Khorat
Ch ao

Prasat Hin Khao

Phnom Rung
Ayutthaya

Bangkok

Pattaya
Chanthaburi
Ko
Samet Laem Ngop
Ko Chang
Gulf of Ko Wai
Thailand

The imposing temple ruins of Wat Phra Si

Sanphet, Ayutthaya

Ang Thong Marine A Week in Thailand’s Northeast

National Park Ko Samui
•
Enjoy incredible •
Visit breathtaking
sweeping vistas from temples in Nong Khai.
the summit of Phu •
Tuck in to spicy local
Kradung National Park. delicacies in Khorat, a
Phangnga Bay •
Sample superb wine city famous for its food.
Phuket Town from the vineyards •
Explore two superb
Patong Ko Phi Phi of the Phu Rua Khmer sites: the ruins at
National Park. Prasat Hin Phimai, and
•
Watch the world go by the once-Hindu temple
Andaman in the chic riverside complex of Prasat Hin
Sea
cafés of Chiang Khan. Khao Phnom Rung.
12  INTRODUCING THAILAND
2 Days in Bangkok
Thailand’s vibrant capital
dazzles visitors with its
array of contrasts – serene
temples, gardens, and royal
palaces amid ultra-modern
skyscrapers and bustling
city crowds.
•
Arriving Bangkok’s
Suvarnabhumi International
Airport lies 18 miles (29 km)
east of the city. A high­speed
rail link reaches various parts
of the city, and there are
plenty of taxis. Don Muang
Airport, north of Bangkok,
handles budget carriers.
Moving on Flights to Chiang
•
Mai leave from both airports,
buses from the Northern Bus
Terminal (Morchit) and trains
from the downtown Hua
Lampong Railway Station.
Day 1
Morning Bangkok is huge, but
its best sights are found within
a fairly small area along the Chao
Phraya River. Wat Phra Kaeo
(pp84–7) holds one of Thailand’s
most esteemed cultural artifacts,
a small jade Buddha image.
Ornate pavilions and gilded
chedi (pagodas) fill the com­
pound, which is surrounded by a
walkway decorated with scenes
from the Ramakien (pp44–5).
Residence of the first six kings
of the current Chakri dynasty,
the Grand Palace (pp84–5 and
pp88–9) is a mixture of traditional
Thai and European Neo­Classical
architecture. Most impressive is
the Dusit Throne Hall, which
contains the original teak throne
of the dynasty’s founder.
Afternoon As a counterpoint
to the intense atmosphere of
Wat Phra Kaeo, explore sprawling
Wat Pho (pp96–7). The mag­
nificent central bot (chapel)
contains a bronze Buddha image
salvaged from the former
capital, Ayutthaya, and the
immense Reclining Buddha
exudes serenity. After absorbing
the atmosphere here, try a ther­
apeutic massage in the temple’s
traditional medical school.
For practical information on traveling around Thailand, see pp472–81
2 Days in Chiang Mai
In the 14th century, Chiang
Mai was the capital of an
independent kingdom.
Today it is known for its
beguiling blend of ancient
and modern, thriving culture
and art scenes, charming
and hospitable people, and
An aerial view of the bright lights of its proximity to mountainous
Bangkok at dusk hill-tribe areas.
•
Arriving Chiang Mai
Day 2
International Airport has
Morning Jim Thompson
flights to and from other
House (pp124–5) is the former
Asian cities as well as
home of an American entre­
domestic services. The
preneur who revitalized the Thai
airport is a few miles
silk industry after World War II.
from the city center.
The six traditional teak houses
within the shady compound •
Moving on Buses and
contain superb collections of minivans cover the
Asian art, including sculpture northern region. Express
from the 7th century, antique buses and a train run
Thai ceramics, Burmese wood to Bangkok. Car and
carvings and Ming porcelain. motorcycle hires
are readily available.
Afternoon Near Jim Thompson
House are a wide choice of
modern shopping malls, from Day 1
the elegant Siam Paragon Morning Start at the splendid
(p143) to the bazaar­like atmos­ Wat Phra Sing (p230) near
phere at Mahboonkrong (p143), the center of the old city,
which sells gadgets and clothing and then walk down tree­
at bargain prices. More shopping lined Ratchadamnoen Road
on nearby Ploenchit Road can to historic Wat Chedi Luang
be followed by a visit to the (p230). A few blocks to the
Erawan Shrine (p122), where northeast, relax in the peaceful
traditional Thai dancers perform shady compound of Wat
in honor of the Hindu god Indra, Chiang Man (p230), the city’s
held holy by Buddhist Thais. oldest wat.
To extend your trip… Afternoon From Chiang
Enjoy some fresh air and Mai Zoo, at the foot of the
greenery at the elegant mountain, board a minibus
Dusit Park (pp106–7) or for the winding 7­mile (12­km)
the popular and central climb up Doi Suthep (pp226–7).
Lumphini Park (p121). The temple of Wat Doi Suthep,
originally constructed in the
Wat Phra Sing, the largest temple in Chiang Mai

14th century, attracts a steady
stream of worshipers and
visitors who admire the gilded
central chedi (pagoda) and
the panoramic views. In the
evening, go shopping in the
Night Bazaar (p230).
Day 2
Morning Explore Warorot
Market (p230), where fresh
food, spices, and local clothing
(upstairs) are on offer. From
the Chinese shrine west of the
market, walk south along the
small road, where hill tribes
sell hand-woven cloth to
local merchants.
Afternoon Take a cruise on
the Ping River (p231); the boats
leave from Wat Chaimongkol.
Afterwards, watch the sun set
over dinner or a drink in the Wat
Gate neighborhood on the east
side of the river along
Charoenrat Road.
A Week in the Far
North of Thailand
•
Airports Arrive and depart
from Chiang Mai
International Airport.
•
Transport This itinerary
is ideal for self-driving,
which offers the most
flexibility, although a good
network of buses and
(faster) minivans cover all
the stops on this tour.
Day 1: Mae Taeng
Drive an hour north of Chiang
Mai to the verdant Mae Taeng
Valley (p225). The scenery
is stunning, and there are
fantastic opportunities to
go river rafting, or trekking
to hill-tribe villages. Stay the
night in Mae Taeng.
Day 2: Chiang Dao
Head further north the next
morning, and you’ll soon spot the
looming massif of Doi Chiang
Dao (p224). Take a lantern-lit
tour around the sacred cave
and temple at the base of the
mountain, or opt for a walking
or cycling tour in the rugged
countryside. There are a number
of pleasant guesthouses nearby.
DISCOVERING THAILAND
The iconic golden chedi of Wat Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai
Day 3: Mae Salong
The mountain-top village of
Mae Salong (p246) has a
unique history; it was once a
base for Chinese nationalist
troops fleeing Mao’s Communists.
Now the economy thrives on
growing fragrant Chinese tea,
which tastes especially good
on misty mornings.
Day 4: Doi Tung to Mae Sai
Winding through superb
mountainous scenery, you’ll
soon reach Doi Tung (p247).
The temple at its summit,
Wat Phra That Doi Tung (p247),
affords incredible views of the
surrounding mountains and
valley below. Don’t miss Doi
Tung Royal Villa (p247), a
former royal palace. Head
down to the border town of
Mae Sai (p250), the gateway to
Myanmar (Burma). What Mae
Sai lacks in traditional beauty,
the market makes up for in
vivacity, as Thais bargain over
the latest products from China.
Day 5: Golden Triangle to
Chiang Saen
Just east of Mae Sai, visit the
excellent House of Opium
museum (p252), which tells
the story of this infamous
commodity. Stop at the village
of Sop Ruak (p252), where
you’ll see the riverine meeting
point of Thailand, Myanmar,
and Laos – the center of the
area known as the Golden
Triangle because of its links
to the opium trade. Stay in
the pleasant town of
 13
Chiang Saen (pp252–3), and
take an evening stroll to the wide
Mekong River, where you can
watch porters unload the boats.
Day 6: Chiang Rai
The provincial capital of Chiang
Rai (pp254–5) is growing,
but the city center still exudes
small-town charm – notice the
old teak shop-houses along
Tanalai Rd, and admire the
wood carvings in Wat Phra
Kaeo (p254), once the home of
the Emerald Buddha that is now
housed in the Bangkok temple
of the same name.
Day 7: Chiang Rai to
Chiang Mai
The return 3-hour drive to
Chiang Mai is a pleasant and
scenic tour, passing through
hills and then a long valley of
rice cultivation. Stop at the
town of Wiang Pa Pao (p256)
and, for a scenic return to
Chiang Mai, turn right and
continue to the small market
town of Phrao (p224). Stock up
on traditional textiles and locally
grown fruit, then meander
through a quiet hill-bounded
valley to your destination.
To extend your trip…
From Chiang Rai, head
to the rarely visited
mountainous province of
Nan (pp258–9), once an
independent statelet. While
there, admire the murals
and elegant architecture of
Wat Phumin (pp260–61).
14  INTRODUCING THAILAND
Ancient Capitals of
Thailand
•
Airports Bangkok Airways
offers daily flights from
Suvarnabhumi International
Airport to Sukhothai.
To continue to Chiang Mai
by air requires first going
to Phitsanulok, 40 miles
(60 km) east of Sukhothai.
•
Transport Self­driving is
recommended. Trains,
buses, and minivans all reach
nearby Ayutthaya from
Bangkok. From Ayutthaya,
trains travel to Phitsanulok,
and buses reach Sukhothai
town directly. Continuing
north to Chiang Mai, there
are buses from Sukhothai
and trains from Phitsanulok.
Day 1: Bangkok
See day 1 of the Bangkok city
itinerary. If time permits, visit the
National Museum (pp92–3); it
holds some of the best artifacts
from the sites you’ll be visiting.
Day 2: Ayutthaya
In the morning, drive or take a
bus to Ayutthaya (pp180–85),
which was the cosmopolitan
capital of Siam from the
14th century until it was razed
by Burmese invaders in 1767.
The Historical Park includes over
a dozen temples; most have
now been restored, although
those left in ruins still manage
to evoke the former splendor of
this once great city. Sites are
spread out, so take a driven tour
or rent a bicycle to get the most
out of your visit. For an inform­
ative orientation, start at the
Ayutthaya Historical Study
Center (p182). Admire the elegant
corncob­shaped prang (a Khmer­
style chedi, or pagoda) at Wat
Phra Ram (p181) and wander
the sprawling grounds of Wat
Phra Si Sanphet (pp182–3).
Day 3: Ayutthaya
Start the day at Wat Phra
Mahathat (p180), the largest
temple complex in Ayutthaya,
then get a tuk-tuk (motorized
trishaw) to Wat Yai Chai
Mongkhon (p185), which lies
just off the island and is home
For practical information on traveling around Thailand, see pp472–81
A Buddha image reflected in lotus ponds at
Sukhothai Historical Park
to a magnificent reclining
Buddha. See a unique strand of
Thai Buddhism that embraces
Chinese folk religion (with
firecrackers and fortune telling)
at the nearby Wat Phanan
Choeng (p185). In the evening,
take a boat ride around the
island, viewing the beautifully
lit temples of old Ayutthaya.
Day 4: Sukhothai
Leave in the morning for
Sukhothai (meaning “dawn of
happiness”), the site of a 13th­
century kingdom considered by
Thais to be the source of their
language and culture. A UNESCO
World Heritage Site, Sukhothai
Historical Park (pp198–9) lies in
the center of a lush green valley.
The park is huge so it’s best to
rent a bicycle at the entrance to
travel between sites. Start with
Wat Mahathat (pp200–1) in the
center of the walled royal city,
and admire its elegant chedi
and magnificent Buddha.
Choose from a variety of cafés
and guesthouses nearby after
the park closes at 6pm.
Wat Chang Lom in Si Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical Park
Day 5: Sukhothai
Spend the day exploring the
temples surrounding the
Royal City. Just outside the
east gate, compare the bell­
shaped chedi at Wat Chang
Lom (p199), with the elegant
Sukhothai style at nearby
Wat Chedi Sung (p199). To the
north, admire the immense
Buddha image of Wat Si
Chum (p199). Wat Saphan Hin
(p201) lies to the west atop a
small hill, which affords fine
views over the valley.
Day 6: Si Satchanalai
Take a morning trip to Si
Satchanalai from Sukhothai
or, if you’re driving, stop on
the way to Chiang Mai.
Si Satchanalai-Chalieng
Historical Park (pp202–3) is
located on the banks of the
Yom River, which adds to the
peaceful atmosphere here.
The largest temple, Wat
Chang Lom (p204), sports a
Sri Lankan­style, bell­shaped
chedi. A lone chedi is all that
remains of Wat Suwan Khiri
(p203), but the views from the
hilltop it perches on, of the
rivers and rice fields beyond,
are spectacular.
Day 7: Chiang Mai
See day 1 of the Chiang Mai city
itinerary.
To extend your trip…
Stop in at Lampang (p240–
41) on the way to Chiang
Mai and explore the town
in a horse­drawn carriage.

A Week in Thailand’s
Northeast
•
Airports Fly into Loei from
Bangkok, or start this tour
from Khorat, and fly back
to Bangkok from Loei, or
to Chiang Mai from nearby
Udon Thani.
•
Transport This itinerary is
ideal for self-driving, but
buses and minivans cover
the northern part of the trip
and there are both trains
and buses from Nong Khai
to Khorat and on to
Bangkok. Driving time
between Nong Khai and
Khorat is about 4 hours.
Day 1: Loei
Fly to the quiet town of Loei,
and head for Phu Kradung
National Park (pp290–91),
a superb mountainous
environment with a year-
round cool climate that
encourages unique flora and
fauna. It’s a 3-mile (5-km) walk
to the summit, where the
park offers accommodation.
The sunrise vistas from here
are magnificent. If the walk
doesn’t suit you, opt instead for
the nearby Phu Rua National
Park (p292), where the cool
breezes have made the area
Thailand’s flower and wine-
growing center.
Day 2: Chiang Khan
North of Loei, on the Mekong
River, visit the charming town
of Chiang Khan (p294), with
its old teakwood shop-houses
and riverside esplanade.
Chiang Khan has become a
favorite weekend trip for young
Bangkokians and is full of
trendy boutiques, coffee shops,
and great places to stay.
Days 3: Chiang Khan to
Nong Khai
Savor the splendid views of the
river, waterfalls, and small villages
untouched by time on the road
that winds along the Mekong
between Chiang Khan and
Nong Khai (pp296–7). Stop on
the way for a lunch of fresh river
fish, and cool off at the Than
Thip Falls (p295) near Sangkhom.
DISCOVERING THAILAND
Prasat Hin Phimai, a beautifully restored Khmer temple complex close to Khorat
Day 4: Nong Khai
The busy town of Nong Khai
is situated on the Mekong River
where the Friendship Bridge
connects to the Lao capital of
Vientiane. Its close trading
position with Laos ensures that
there are many bargains to be
had in the bustling Indochina
Market (p296). Perhaps the
most amazing sight in Nong
Khai is the inimitable Wat
Khaek (p297). Here, an
eccentric yogi assembled a
fantastic collection of bizarre
statuary drawn from Buddhist
and Hindu traditions and his
own imagination. Spend
the evening in one of the
restaurants or bars along the
Rimkhong (the riverside road).
Day 5: Khorat
From Nong Khai, travel
south to Khorat (pp278–9)
and visit the Thao Suranari
Monument (p279), dedicated to
a local heroine who defeated
Lao invaders with feminine
guile. Have dinner in the lively
Night Market (p279); Khorat is
famous for its spicy regional
dishes and barbecued chicken.
Day 6: Prasat Hin Phimai
Take a day trip from Khorat
to the nearby Prasat Hin
Phimai (pp280–81), a thousand-
year-old Khmer site that has
been beautifully restored.
Both Buddhist and Hindu
iconography abound here.
The intricate carvings of
Hindu deities in pink sandstone
are awe-inspiring, and the
Buddha statue at the temple’s
epicenter is superlative.
 15
Day 7: Prasat Hin Khao
Phnom Rung
Take a second trip from Khorat
to Prasat Hin Khao Phnom
Rung (pp284–5). Once a Hindu
temple, this is considered one of
the best examples of Khmer archi-
tecture in Thailand. To understand
the symbolism of the buildings in
the complex, stop in at the
visitor information center at the
front gate. Hindus believe that as
you walk over the three naga
bridges approaching the central
sanctuary, you are leaving the
temporal world and entering the
home of the god Shiva. Drive to
Khorat Airport in the afternoon,
or continue your journey.
To extend your trip…
After Nong Khai, follow the
Mekong south through
the picturesque riverside
towns of Nakhon Phanom
(p300) and Mukdahan
(p302), and rejoin the road
to Khorat further south.
Steps to the temple compound at Prasat
Hin Khao Phnom Rung
16  INTRODUCING THAILAND
A Week on the
Eastern Seaboard
•
Airports There are flights
between Bangkok and Trat,
a town close to the ferries to
Ko Chang.
•
Transport Regular bus
services reach the area
from Bangkok’s Eastern Bus
Terminal and directly from
Suvarnabhumi International
Airport. A passenger ferry
runs to Ko Samet from the
village of Ban Pae. Both car
and passenger ferries go
from Laem Ngop port
near Trat to Ko Chang.
Day 1: Pattaya
Pattaya (p321) is about 2 hours
by bus or car from Bangkok.
Walk along Pattaya’s Beach
Road admiring the colorful
fishing boats in this wide bay.
In the evening, have a look at
South Pattaya’s Walking
Street, a brightly lit throng of
go-go bars, discos, and open-
air beer bars. North Pattaya is
slightly more restrained,
although the most famous
transvestite cabaret shows
are here. Even mellower is the
adjacent bay of Naklua
(p321), where excellent
seafood goes for a fraction
of the price nearby.
Day 2: Ko Samet
A few hours from Pattaya, by
road, ferry, and a short minibus
ride, are the powdery white
A view of the bay at Pattaya
For practical information on traveling around Thailand, see pp472–81
sands of Ko Samet (pp322–3).
Spend the day basking on one
of the island’s fantastic beaches.
Opt for Hat Sai Kaeo (p322) if
you fancy a lively beach with
lots of restaurants and bars.
Ao Phai (p322) bay is smaller,
quieter, and more picturesque.
Day 3: Ko Samet
Put on some solid footwear and
strike out towards the southern
tip of the island at the deserted
Ao Toei, stopping to rest in the
leafy shade of each headland.
Each bay has its own distinct
character. Fresh coconuts
provide excellent refreshment
en route, or stop into a luxury
resort for high tea.
Day 4: Chanthaburi
Back on the mainland, travel
to the charming town of
Chanthaburi (pp324–5).
Take a stroll along the river, The refreshing Khlong Phlu Waterfall on
visit the gem market (p325), Ko Chang
and try the fresh (uncooked)
spring rolls in the town’s best seafood on the island.
Vietnamese Quarter (p324). The short walk to the Khlong
Phlu Waterfall (p327) offers a
Day 5: Ko Chang good look at the dense jungle
Much bigger than Ko Samet, of the island.
Ko Chang (pp326–7) offers
a wide variety of experiences Day 6: Day trip to Ko Wai
such as fishing, diving and From Bang Bao village on
snorkeling. Take the short ferry the southern tip of the
ride from Laem Ngop on the island, catch a boat to Ko Wai
mainland and catch a minibus (p327), a pristine islet. Snorkel
to Hat Sai Khao beach (p326) or swim in the crystal-clear
for beach barbecues, live waters and take in the stunning
music, and fire-juggling shows. views of the surrounding islands
Alternatively, travel to Hat in the Ko Chang archipelago.
Khlong Phrao (p326) for the Stay in Ko Wai or return to Ko
Chang in the evening.
Day 7: Ko Chang
Back in Ko Chang, spend the
morning on one of the isolated
beaches on the southern
coast. Ao Sa Lak Phet (p326)
is near a traditional fishing
village, and from here you can
go snorkeling over eerie
sunken ships from World War II.
From the mainland, it’s an
hour’s flight or about a 5-hour
drive to Bangkok.
To extend your trip…
Visit Ko Mak (p327) and Ko
Kut (p327), two islets off the
southern tip of Ko Chang.

Thailand’s Southern
Beaches
•
Airports Fly into Ko Samui
International Airport from
Bangkok and from Samui
to Phuket International
Airport. From Phuket you
can fly back to Bangkok
or on to other destinations,
including Europe.
•
Transport Both car ferry
and passenger ferries reach
Ko Samui from the
mainland, and Phuket is
connected to the mainland
by bridge, so self-drive is
another option for this tour.
Buses also connect Samui
and Phuket.
Day 1: Ko Samui
Choose one the two best
beaches on Ko Samui’s east
coast: Hat Chaweng (p342)
is longer and has more
entertainment options;
Hat Lamai (p342) is better for
families. Both are great for
swimming and water sports,
from windsurfing to parasailing.
At sunset, visit the Big Buddha
statue near Hat Bangrak (p341),
on the island’s quieter north
coast. Dine at one of the
excellent restaurants in the
nearby fisherman’s village at
Hat Bophut (p341).
The limestone islet Ko Tapu, which lies just
off the coast of Phangnga Bay
DISCOVERING THAILAND
The pristine waters of the Angthong National Marine Park
Day 2: Ko Samui
Head inland to the Namuang
waterfall (p342). Walk to the
falls, and cool off in the clear
pool at their base. Afterwards,
take a Thai cooking class or
play a round of golf on one
of Samui’s many world-
class courses.
Day 3: Angthong National
Marine Park
Catch a boat from Ko Samui to
this beautiful and undeveloped
group of some 40 islands
(pp344–5). Explore via kayak, go
snorkeling, or hike to caves on the
wild interior of one of the islands.
Return to Ko Samui in the after-
noon and fly or drive to Phuket.
Day 4: Phuket
Spend a morning in charming
Phuket Town (pp364–5) visiting
two Chinese temples, Bang
Niew (p364) and Chui Tui
(p365) established by the
Chinese immigrants who flocked
to the tin mines here in the 19th
century. Both celebrate the Taoist
tradition and the often raucous
ambience is unlike the serenity
that prevails in Buddhist temples.
The Chinese Mansions (p364),
once home to tin barons, are a
fascinating mixture of Asian and
Western architecture. After lunch,
head for the secluded beaches
of Hat Nai Yang or Hat Nai
Thon (p366) at the northern end
of the west coast of the island.
Day 5: Phangnga Bay
A day trip to Phangnga Bay
(pp368–71), reveals the
spectacular limestone stacks
 17
and hidden sea caves that
create a home for the marine
and avian life for which it is
famous. For the best views,
hire a long-tail boat or join a
sea kayaking tour for some
cave paddling.
Day 6: Patong Beach
No trip to Phuket is complete
without a visit to Patong
Beach (p366). Every seaside
diversion is offered here, from
jet skis to late-night discos.
Hat Kata and Hat Karon (p366)
to the south, while developed,
are more relaxing.
Day 7: Ko Phi Phi
Take a morning boat from
Phuket for a day trip to this
spectacular island (pp376–7).
Cool off in one of the hip
cafés in Ban Ton Sai (p376)
village, then step across the
isthmus where you’ll find a
lovely bay bounded by coconut
palms and limestone crags.
A steep but quick walk leads
to a magnificent viewpoint.
Alternatively, walk along the
level trail to Hat Yao (p376) and
go snorkeling on the reef, where
iridescent fish dart among
the vivid coral. Return to
Phuket for the sunset.
To extend your trip…
The Ko Surin and Ko
Similan archipelagos
(p361), north of Phuket, are
home to spectacular and
world-famous diving sites,
such as Burma Banks. The
waters are crystal clear.
18  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Putting Thailand on the Map

Chiang
Thailand is located at the heart of Southeast Asia, Rai
between the Indian Ocean and the South China Sea.
The country covers 198,000 sq miles (513,000 sq km)
and has a population of 68 million, the majority of Chiang
Mai
whom are concentrated in the fertile Central Plains Nan

Chae
and in the capital, Bangkok. The verdant North is
mainly mountainous, and towering ranges run along Lampang
the long western border with Myanmar (Burma). Phrae

Pi ng
Bhumiphol
In contrast, the Northeast is a flat, poor, arid region. Reservoir Uttaradit
Much of the eastern border with Laos is defined
by the Mekong River. Further south are the hills of
northern Cambodia. Thailand’s Southern peninsula MYANMAR
offers many of the best beaches and islands. Phitsanulok

Moulmein

T H
Nakhon Sawan
Khao Laem
Reservoir Chai Nat

Lop Buri

Ayutthaya
Kanchanaburi

Bangkok
Ratchaburi

Andaman
Andaman
Islands Sea Pattaya

MYANMAR Prachuap
Khiri Khan

Chumphon

Southeast Asia SOUTH Gulf

KOREA
JAPAN
CHINA
Ko Samui
NEPAL BHUTAN
Ko Ban
BANGLADESH Surin Hin Lat Surat Thani
INDIA Pacific
MYANMAR LAOS Ocean Khao Lak Nakhon Si
THAILAND Ko Thammarat
VIETNAM Similan
Bangkok CAMBODIA
PHILIPPINES
Krabi
SRI
LANKA BRUNEI Phuket Phatthalung
M A L AY S I A Trang
SINGAPORE
Songkhla

INDONESIA Hat
PAPUA Ban Pak Bara
NEW Yai
EAST GUINEA Ko Tarutao Satun
Indian TIMOR

Ocean

AUSTRALIA
Georgetown

For keys to symbols see back flap

 PUTTING THAILAND ON THE MAP  19

Hâi Phòng
Oug Xuwen
un

Haikou
So

Luang Thanh Hoa

Phabang
CHINA
Dongfang
Mekhong

L A O S Câ
Wa

Vinh
M ekh ong
Sanya

Vientiane
Nong Khai
Nakhon
Noy South
Udon Phanom
Thani China Sea
Khon Mukdahan
Kaen
ang ~
Banghi
A I L A N D
Dá Năng

Yasothon
Ubon
Ch
i

Ratchathani

Khorat n
g

Surin K˘o
Mek hon g

an
Prachin Buri San
X

Qui Nho'n
Ba

Srêpôk
Siĕmréab
Chon Buri
D
Tônlé C A M B O D I A aR
áng
Ban Sab
Phe
Chanthaburi
Ko Samet Laem Ngop Nha Trang
Trat
Ko Chang Phnom
Penh V I E T N A M

ek
M

ho Hô Chí
n g Minh
of Thailand

Key
0 kilometers 150
Highway
0 miles 100
Pattani Major road
Major railroad line
Narathiwat
Yala International boundary

M A L AY S I A
20  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Northern Thailand Mae Sai Sop

Ruak

An extensive road network covers most of the North, Northeast, and Chiang Saen
Chiang
Tha Ton
Central Plains of Thailand. Air-conditioned buses run between many Khong

110
of the major towns, and local buses are plentiful. Only in isolated Fang Chiang

20
Rai

10
border areas are road links unreliable. The railroad

107
system connects Bangkok to the Central Plains and 10 10
20
Chiang

95
Chiang Mai. Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Chiang Dao Wiang
Pai 2

1
Pa Pao 10
Rai have international airports, and many Mae
Phrao
major towns are served by domestic flights. Hong Son 8
12
0 Phayao
11

108
See inset
map above Chiang Mai
Ngao
Lamphun

108

1
10
3

Mae 11 Lampang
8
Sariang 10

1
11

10
Phrae

106

1
105

Uttaradit
Si Satchanalai
10

Sawankhalok
5

11
101
Sukhothai
12
M YA N M A R 105
Tak Phitsanulok
Mae Sot 1
10

117
115
Key to Areas Kamphaeng
Phet
Northwest Heartland 7
111

1 17

Far North
1

North Central Plains 107

Umphang 2
South Central Plains
Nakhon
Khorat Plateau Sawan
11

Mekong River Valley Uthai Thani

Bangkok 1
333

Chai
31 8

Sangkhla 8
Buri Nat
340

Sing
345 Buri
333
323

Don Muang
Ang
r aya

Thong
9
h

Suphan Buri
Chao P

30
9

3086

302 4
1
31

32
1

Nonthaburi Min Buri

311

323
4

33
32

338
6 Kanchanaburi
8
327
Nakhon Pathom
Bangkok 7
4

Ratchaburi 35
4
9

Suvarnabhumi
Bangkok Samut Songkhram
The city has some of the world’s
4

35 34 Phetchaburi
worst traffic jams, but there have
30

4
3

334

9
been improvements, with the Cha-am
Skytrain, MRT subway, and airport
Bangkok and Samut rail link easing congestion. If you
Prakan
Environs have to drive around the city, try Hua Hin
0 kilometers 20 3 to avoid rush hour and the rainy
season, when the streets can
4

0 miles 20
become flooded.
For keys to symbols see back flap
 PUTTING THAILAND ON THE MAP  21

Chiang Mai Doi Saket

Chiang Mai has good Chiang Mai and Environs
12
road and rail links with 1

1
100
N am

1001
8
Bangkok and the rest San
11

Ma
of Thailand. The “Super Sai

eT
aen
Highway” connects to

107

g
DOI SUTHEP
the airport and main 11
routes into the city. 100
4
City roads can be very

121
Chiang

14
10
congested at rush hour.

121
Mai
100
6
Chiang Mai

Nong
Bua

106
10
San
Kamphaeng

11
Nan
0 kilometers 10 1147
L A O S
Saraphi
0 miles 5 30
10
2
21

Chiang 21 Vientiane
1 2
21

Khan Nong Khai

22

2
201

Udon Ban
03 Chiang Nakhon
Loei Thani 22 Phanom
2

210 22
Renu Nakhon
Sakhon Nakhon
That
201

3 Phanom
12 21

Mukdahan
Khon 209 Kalasin
2

Phetchabun 12 Kaen
21
21
21

Maha
4

Khemmarat
113 Sarakham
201

Selaphum 20
2
Roi Et
Chaiyaphum Yasothon
202
Bua Yai
212

2 25
23

Khong
Suwannaphum Chiam
21

Ubon 217
9

205 Ratchathani
21

Phimai Buri
214

6
22
201

Ram Sirindhorn
1

Khorat Dam
(Nakhon Ratchasima)
22

Lop 226
1

Buri Surin
219

24
8

2 24
21

Phra Phutthabat
21
4
4

Saraburi
30

Ayutthaya

Bang Pa-in
Prachin Buri C A M B O D I A
3 19

See inset
map, left 04 33 Aranyaprathet
Bangkok
3

Chachoengsao

Chon Buri
31

Ko Key
7

Sichang
Highway
34 4

Si Racha
0 kilometers 100
Major road
36
0 miles 50
Pattaya 3 Minor road
Rayong 3
Sattahip Railroad line
Ban Phe Chanthaburi
Ko
31
8 International border
Samet
Trat
Laem Ngop
Ko
Chang
22  INTRODUCING THAILAND
Suphan Buri
1
32

32
3
Southern Thailand

321
32
Kanchanaburi
Thailand’s long coastline, fine beaches, and
Nakhon
idyllic offshore islands are a major attraction for Pathom
visitors to the Gulf of Thailand and the South. Ratchaburi 35

Good-quality roads stretch from the Cambodian Samut Songkhram

border in the east to the Malaysian border in the Phetchaburi
south and along the western Andaman Sea coast.

4
Air-conditioned buses operate regularly between the Cha-am
main towns. There is one north-south railroad line from
Bangkok that passes through, or has connections with, Hua Hin
most of the towns on the Gulf of Thailand. The Eastern
Seaboard has good road connections with Bangkok,

4
but the railroad line terminates at Sattahip. Ferry
services from ports to the main islands are frequent,
and it is possible to buy tickets in Bangkok that M YA N M A R Prachuap
Khiri Khan
combine train, bus, and ferry trips. Many towns have
regional airports; Ko Samui, Phuket, Hat Yai, and Thap Sakae
Krabi are also served by international flights.
Bang Saphan

4
4
Chumphon

Ko Tao

Ranong Ko Pha
Ngan
41

4 Ko
Ko Surin Chaiya Samui
Ban Hin Lat Kanchanadit
Surat
Thani Sichon
Takua Pa 401
401
41

Ko Similan
Khao Nakhon Si
Lak Thammarat
4

Phangnga
40
402

Krabi
8

Bay
403

Khlong
Ao Nang Thom
41

Ko Phuket Ko Phi Phatthalung

Phi 4
4
Key to Areas Ko Trang
Lanta
404

Eastern Seaboard
Bangkok
4
Western Seaboard Andaman 416
Ban Pak Bara
Sea
6

Upper Andaman Coast

40

Ko Tarutao Satun
Deep South

For keys to symbols see back flap

 1
PUTTING THAILAND ON THE MAP  23

304
Ayutthaya
5
30 Prachin Buri
Bang Pa-in
31
9

304 304
33
Bangkok
Chachoengsao Aranyaprathet

Chon Buri 317

Ko
Sichang Key
3

Si Racha
344

Highway
331

36 Major road
Pattaya
Ban Phe 3 Minor road
Sattahip
Rayong Chanthaburi Railroad line
Ko Samet 3
International border
31
8
Laem Ngop
Trat
Ko
Chang

Ko Khlong Yai
Kut
CAMBODIA
Gulf of
Thailand

0 kilometers 100 VIETNAM

0 miles 50

Mileage Chart
Bangkok
10 = Distance in miles
432 10 = Distance in kilometers
Chiang Mai
695
487 112 Chiang Rai
785 180
161 481 540 Khorat
260 775 870
40
8

484 916 972 646 Nakhon Si

Songkhla 780 1475 1565 1040 Thammarat
233 208 258 283 717 Phitsanulok
Hat Yai 375 335 415 455 1155
43
Pattani
42 534 969 1022 696 209 770 Phuket
42
860 1560 1645 1120 336 1240
42

Yala
40

590 1022 1077 751 100 823 307

4

Songkhla
9

Narathiwat 950 1645 1735 1210 161 1325 495

196 627 683 206 680 428 730 786 Trat
Tak Bai
405

315 1010 1100 330 1095 690 1175 1265

6

368 581 630 207 852 373 903 958 563 Ubon
Sungai 590 935 1015 335 1375 600 1455 1540 905 Ratchathani
Ko-Lok 351 476 526 189 835 270 885 941 546 248
410

Udon Thani
Betong 565 770 850 305 1345 435 1425 1515 880 400

M A L AY S I A
 INTRODUCING THAILAND  25

A PORTRAIT OF
THAILAND
Set within a lush, tropical landscape, Thailand is a theater of cultural and
sensual contrasts for the visitor. The long, rich heritage and abundant natural
resources of this proud Buddhist nation jostle for space within the dynamism
of a country undergoing economic boom and bust. In turns zestful and
tranquil, resplendent and subtle, Thailand is always compelling.

Thailand is located in a fertile monsoon belt
midway between India and China, the two
civilizations that have molded Southeast
Asia. But the Thais have long delighted in
their distinctive culture. For instance,
though the Tai (rather than Thai) ethnic
group probably originated in Southern
China sometime in the first millennium AD,
their tonal language is quite unlike any
form of Chinese. Moreover, the elegant
Thai script, though derived from that of
ancient Southern India, is distinct.
Today, Thailand is a member of the
Association of Southeast Asian Nations
(ASEAN), though Thais still take pride in a
long tradition of independence. Unlike all
its immediate neighbors, Myanmar
(Burma), Laos, Cambodia, and Malaysia,
the country never fell to a European
colonial power. More fundamentally,
though, the Thai sense of identity is
allied with Theravada Buddhism and
the monarchy. Both have been dignified
institutions since the Sukhothai period
(13th–14th century), an era when the
first real Thai kingdom flourished.
Indeed, the colors of the modern Thai
flag (thong trai rong) symbolize the nation
(red), the three forces of Buddhism
(white), and the monarchy (blue).
Today, the great majority of Thailand’s
63 million inhabitants regard themselves
as Thai. Hill tribes are the most obvious
ethnic minority groups, but it is the
Chinese who form the largest (and
most integrated) group.

Colorful korlae fishing boats in the clear waters of Southern Thailand

Buddhist monks at the ruins of Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Ayutthaya
26  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Northeast, and South. Each region

also has its own topographical identity.
The North is an area of forested
mountains, where hill-tribe minorities
coexist with mainstream society. In the
South, the narrow Kra Peninsula presents
a 2,500-km (1,500-mile) coastline with
a hilly interior of rainforests and rubber
plantations. Malay-Muslim culture is a
major influence here.
Between these two extremes are the
Central Plains, the cradle of Thai
civilization and a fertile, rice-growing
region. Near the mouth of the Chao
Phraya River, the capital, Bangkok,
sprawls ever farther each year. Its palatial
splendor can still be discerned, but the
city is among the world’s most
congested and polluted, despite great
Bangkok is a sprawling modern metropolis with a continually efforts to clean the air and local rivers.
evolving skyline Different again is Northeast Thailand
(also widely known as Isan), the poorest
The various peoples live relatively part of the country occupying the Khorat
peaceably nowadays, though in 1939, Plateau, its eastern border with Laos
in a wave of nationalism encouraged by defined by the Mekong River. In this
Prime Minister Phibun Songkram, the semiarid region traditional farming
country’s name was changed from Siam communities, many of them Thai-Lao,
to Prathet Thai (Thailand), or “land of the eke out a subsistence living.
Thai people.”
The country is divided into four main Economic Development
regions, and there are many subtle Rice and other agricultural crops were
differences between the peoples and long the mainstays of the Thai economy,
dialects of the Central Plains, North, and farming is still highly respected.

Green terraced rice field in Doi Inthanon National Park in the Northwest Heartland
 A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND  27

Transport infrastructure remains a weak

point, resulting in Bangkok’s notorious
traffic chaos. Commerce and communi-
cations are concentrated in Bangkok,
while the rest of the country remains
largely rural.
Raw materials top the country’s list of
imports, and the leading exports include
garments, electrical goods, mechanical
equipment, seafood products, rice,
rubber, gems, and jewelry.
Noodle vendor at Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, a colorful and The environment has taken many blows
popular sight near Bangkok in the last 50 years, and forest cover has
declined from 70 percent of the land to
From the mid-1980s, however, less than 20 percent. Many
a concerted export drive animal species have lost their
triggered an unprecedented habitats and been hunted
economic boom. For several almost to extinction. However,
years, Thailand enjoyed conservation awareness is
double-digit growth and increasing, and measures are
was known as one of Asia’s being taken to preserve what
“tiger” economies. Economic remains of the nation’s rich
growth came to an abrupt halt, natural bounty.
however, in a chain of events Muslim Thai in
that began in May 1997 with Southern Thailand Society and Politics
financial speculation against In spite of the pressures of
the Thai baht. Flotation of the baht in change, Thai society is relatively stable.
July pushed the economies of various There is no caste system, but the social
Asian countries, including Thailand, hierarchy, topped by the monarchy, is
Indonesia, and South Korea, into crisis.
While Thai politicians blamed everyone
from bankers to city-dwellers, the people
of Thailand immediately suffered, with
large-scale redundancies, pay cuts,
and repossessions.
Thailand has since recovered fully,
and Bangkok’s skyline is seeing much
construction work. Tourism is still the
single largest foreign exchange earner.
The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)
revived the “Amazing Thailand Year,”
which was a great success in 1998.
In 2006 Thailand recorded 13.8 million
visitors, and though this figure dropped
in 2008, 2013 saw a significant rise again.
Bangkok and the beach resorts attract
most of the visitors, followed by Chiang
Mai and the North. Thailand’s deluxe
hotels and luxurious spa resorts are
some of the finest in the world. Elephant in Bangkok, surprisingly not a rare sight
28  INTRODUCING THAILAND
quite rigid. Social standing
is dictated mainly by wealth
and family connections.
Women have less standing
than men, despite playing a
major role in the economy,
mainly as laborers and
white-collar workers.
However, in 2011, Thailand
elected its first female
prime minister, Yingluck
Shinawatra, sister of
deposed PM Thaksin
Shinawatra. Three years
later, she was charged
with dereliction of duty
and forced out of office. Elders
are always accorded respect
within families and in society.
Hierarchy permeates daily life
in many ways. The traditional
greeting, the wai, in which the
hands are brought together
near the chin, is always initiated
by the inferior, and the height of
the wai reflects the social gap
between the parties. If the gap is
extreme, inferiors may approach their
superiors on their knees. Other rules
of etiquette, such as never raising the
voice, transcend class. Despite such
rules for themselves, Thais are
renowned for their tolerance of other
cultures and friendliness to visitors. Offense Buddhist rites, ranging from festivals
is taken only if there is any perceived
disrespect to the King or Buddhism.
Lisu hill-tribe women and children in their colorful traditional clothing
There is no criticism of the
King in Thailand’s press.
Constitutional since 1932,
the monarchy is revered
almost as much as when
kings were chakravatin, or
“king of kings.” Kingship and
religion are inextricably
linked in Thailand. The
present monarch, King
Bhumibol Adulyadej
(Rama IX), served as a
monk in his youth and
presides over some major
Seated Buddha image, one of thousands religious ceremonies.
in Thailand He is the longest-reigning
living monarch in the world, having
ascended to the throne in 1946, and
has won widespread respect for his
devotion to Thai welfare and
environmental projects.
The monkhood (sangha), some
250,000 strong, plays a crucial
social role. Most teenage boys
become novice monks for
a while, which is seen as
fortuitous for their families,
especially their mothers,
as well as a rite of passage.
Garland of jasmine, Some enter the monkhood
a ubiquitous sight properly later in life and may
choose its austere precepts
for life. Monks conduct numerous
to everyday blessings and other social
events. In rural areas, they traditionally
play an important role as
teachers, a profession that
in Thailand is perhaps held
higher in regard than
anywhere else in the world.
In contrast, politicians are
held in far less respect, and the
Thai press openly criticizes the
running of the country. The
economic boom and bust of
the 1980s and 1990s exerted
considerable pressure on Thai
society. The extended family
remains important, but it has
 A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND  29

countless Buddha images and

Monks chanting in Pali, the language of Theravada Buddhism
become an idealized concept espoused
by conser vative groups. As soon as they
are old enough, many young people
move away from their towns and villages
to find work in the city, sending money
back to their parents each month.
Thai Culture and Arts
Thailand’s classical arts have developed
almost exclusively (and anonymously)
in the service of Theravada Buddhism.
Accordingly, the best showcase is the
wat, where traditional architecture,
typified by sweeping, multitiered roofs,
Cho fas, or roof finials, at the Grand Palace, Bangkok
murals, and decorative arts, such
as woodcarving, stucco, gilt,
lacquer, colored glass mosaic, and
mother of pearl inlay, are all used
to striking effect.
The literary tradition of Thailand
is confined mostly to classic tales,
the most important of which is
the Ramakien, an ancient moral
epic with its origins in the Indian
Ramayana. Such sagas provided
the narrative content for the
once-thriving performing arts,
best preserved today in highly
stylized classical dance-drama called
khon and lakhon.
Thailand’s most
notable literary
figure is the 19th-
century poet
Sunthorn Phu.
Thai cinema
continues to go
from strength to
strength. In 2002,
Sut Sanaeha
(“Blissfully Yours”),
the story of a
Lakhon dancers at a
romance between a Buddhist shrine
Thai woman and an
illegal Burmese immigrant, was selected
for special consideration at the Cannes
Film Festival, and the 2008 film Ploy
was premiered there during Director’s
Fortnight. The Bangkok International
Film Festival was launched in 2002.
On the sports front, Thailand’s unique
style of kick-boxing draws big crowds,
while other traditional pastimes range
from takraw, a game not unlike volleyball,
but using the feet, to kite-flying. Numerous
colorful festivals, many linked to both
Buddhism and the changing seasons,
are celebrated with exuberance. Whatever
the activity, Thais believe that life should
be sanuk – “fun.” Sanuk can be found in
all things, from eating – something for
which Thais have a passion – to simply
going for a stroll with friends.
30  INTRODUCING ThaIlaND

Monsoon Country
The rice cycle, upon which the Thais have long
believed their health, wealth, and happiness
depends, is governed by the advance and retreat
of the monsoon rains. as most people in the
kingdom define themselves as chao na, rice farmers,
the monsoon could be said to govern the cycle of
life. This analogy is seen clearly in many Thai beliefs
and practices. The rice goddess must be honored
before cultivation if the crop is to be bountiful. The Central Plains of Thailand enjoy
good conditions for wet rice cultivation.
The rice grain contains a spirit (kwan) and is planted The flat paddies become flooded in the
in the rainy season to become “pregnant.” rainy season.
The Thai word for irrigation (chon
prathan) translates as gift of water.” Bundles of rice seedlings
ready for transplanting

Transplanting takes place in

the rainy season, when the
heavy clay soil is saturated.

A “calling for rains” Buddha image –

a standing posture with both arms
pointing to the earth – is found in
some Northern wats. The rice crop
depends on rain.

Songkran, or Thai
New Year, in April,
is a water festival
marking the
imminent end
of the cool, dry
season. People
celebrate by
pouring or
throwing water
over each other.

Monsoon Seasons
The southwest monsoon comes
“Monsoon” comes from the Arabic mawsim from the Indian Ocean with rain-
(season). It refers to South Asia’s seasonal winds laden clouds, from about June
(not heavy rain). In Thailand, the southwest to October. Most days there are
monsoon is the rainy season; the northeast downpours, though Thailand’s
monsoon is dry, called the cool season; and east coast is fairly dry.
between these periods is the hot season.
Seedlings
transplanted in rows

Flooded
Flooding in Bangkok at the end of the rainy season Rainy Season paddies
 a portrait of thailand  31

The main
harvest for
lowland wet rice
cultivation takes
place in the
middle of the cool
season. Entire
families and
villages labor in
the fields at this
busy time, cutting
off the golden
Machinery has replaced animals on many stalks with sickles.
farms, reflecting the increasing mechanization
of the Thai farming industry. However, plowing
and cultivating the land is still hard work.

Water channel Seedlings need to be

between fields semisubmerged

Threshing is usually undertaken in the

rice fields by the same laborers who
have harvested the crop. The stalks are
beaten to separate the grain from the
chaff. The grain is then dried in the sun.

Transplanting
Since most varieties of rice can only
propagate in flood conditions, rice
seedlings may initially be nurtured in
nursery fields, where irrigation can be
carefully managed and monitored.
Later these seedlings will be
transplanted into flooded paddies.

The northeast monsoon from Between the two monsoons the

central Asia usually blows from land heats up, creating an area of
November to March, bringing low pressure above it. Eventually
relatively cool, dry conditions the high pressure over the Indian
to Thailand, though rains Ocean moves inland, and the
often affect the east coast. monsoon cycle begins again.

Golden stalks ready for Stubble burned at

harvesting end of rice cycle

Floodwaters Hot, dry

Cool Season recede Hot Season earth
32  INTRODUCING ThaIlaND

The Landscape and Wildlife of Thailand

Thailand stretches from south of the tropic of Cancer
to about 620 miles (1,000 km) north of the equator; its
tropical climate is affected by two monsoons (see pp30–31).
Varied topography and a gentle climate have led to a rich
diversity of flora and fauna. limestone hills in the North
are clad in dense tropical forest. Open forest is more usual
in the Northeast and Central Plains while the South and
Gulf have superb coastlines and pockets of rainforest.
Many habitats are threatened by industry and tourism;
deforestation is rife, and some animal species face
extinction (see p223). as a result, many national parks
have been established. The first, Khao Yai (see pp188–9), Coconut palms on the island of Ko Samui in
opened in 1962. the Gulf of Thailand

Montane Tropical Forest Open Forest

This type of forest is made up mostly of broad­ The most common trees in the open forest, also
leaf evergreens and some deciduous trees such called savanna forest, are dipterocarps, a family
as laurel, oak, and chestnut. Mosses, ferns, and of trees native to Southeast Asia. The ground
epiphytic orchids, growing on other plants, around them is often carpeted by coarse scrub.
are common.
Sambar, Thailand’s
Atlas moths are largest deer, can be seen
the world’s largest on the Central Plains and
species. The female is in the Northeast.
larger than the male.

Serow, a type of antelope,

are becoming increasingly
rare in the hills of Capped gibbons are found
Northern Thailand. mainly on the southern edge
of Northeast Thailand. They
are extremely agile.

Palm civets are nocturnal.

They are found in tropical Wild boars have been
forests, but may also live heavily hunted in the past.
near humans and eat They feed mainly on grass.
cultivated fruit.
 a portrait of thailand  33

The mallow flower,

Thai Flowers a relative of
The diversity of Thailand’s flowers reflects its the hibiscus,
range of natural habitats. Most famous of all is common
are its orchids; there are some 1,300 different throughout
varieties. Unfortunately, illegal collection has Southeast Asia.
led to their growing rarity in the wild.
Other flowers are used as spices Mountain pitcher plants
and for medicinal purposes. are insectivorous. Their
prey falls into the “pitcher”
where the plant’s juices
Lotus lilies’ seed slowly dissolve it.
pods and stems
are edible. Other Orchids (see p224) come
lilies are grown for mainly from Northern
ornament only. Thailand; they are prized
for their beauty.

Wetlands Coastal Forest

Freshwater swamp forests have been decimated
by farming, though some survive in the South.
River basins and man-made lakes and ponds
can be found all over Thailand.
Dusky leaf-monkeys are found
in the Thai-Malay peninsula.
Three other species of leaf-
monkey also live in Thailand.
The seeds of trees such as pines and Indian
almond are transported on sea currents; thus
ribbons of coastal forest are found all over
Southeast Asia. Thailand’s coastal forests are
now threatened by farming and tourism.
Green turtles are the only
herbivorous sea turtles;
they feed on sea grass and
algae and are nocturnal.

Lizards are common in island

Painted storks migrate to forests. Most eat insects,
Thailand’s swamps to breed. though some species eat
During this time the pigment mice and small birds.
in their faces turns pink.

Purple swamp hens

are common. Long- Crested wood
toed feet allow them partridges are found in
to walk on floating the South, in areas of
vegetation. coastal, lowland forest.
34  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Thai Buddhism King Bhumibol,

At least 90 percent of Thais practice Theravada like many kings
Buddhism. This was first brought to the region before him, spent
time as a monk.
from India around the 3rd century BC and is based For Thais, this act
on the ancient Pali canon of the Buddha’s teachings reinforces the notion
(Tripitaka). However, Thai practice incorporates many that Buddhism and
Hindu, Tantric, and Mahayana Buddhist influences. the monarchy are
unified powers.
The worship of Buddha images, for instance, is a
Mahayana Buddhist practice. Animist beliefs in
Siddhartha sets out to
spirits and the magical and in astrology are also attain Enlightenment.
widespread. Thais believe that Buddhism is one of
three forces that give their kingdom its strength,
the other two being the monarchy and nationhood.
Religious rituals color daily life, especially in the
form of merit-making (see p133).

Most Thai males are ordained as monks at adolescence –

a major rite of passage. They usually spend at least a few
months as monks, earning merit for themselves and
their families. Few Thai women become nuns.

Applying gold leaf

to Buddha images
is a popular act of Story of the Buddha
merit-making. Books
The Buddha was born Prince
of gold leaf can be
Siddhartha Gautama in India in the
readily purchased at
temples, and the thin 6th century BC. He gave up his riches to
leaves are applied in seek Enlightenment, and later taught
profusion on Buddha the way to nirvana. Statues of the
images, wat deco- Buddha (see p177) and murals
ration, and murals. depicting his previous 10 lives
(jatakas) abound in Thailand.

The family is held in high regard in

Thailand. A senior monk will be asked by
the family for his blessing at child-naming
ceremonies, weddings, to bless a new
house or car, or simply after a donation to
the wat has been made. Children are
taught the simple moral codes of
Buddhism from an early age.
 A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND  35

Walking meditation is
practiced by most monks.
Here, the most senior monk
leads the line walking around
the temple clockwise.
Meditation on the nature of
existence is a major way in
which Buddhists progress
toward Enlightenment –
Buddha literally means
“One who is Enlightened.”

Vishnu, with four arms, is one of

the three principal Hindu gods.

Thai folding book

painting, c.1900

A ring of jasmine
Heavenly symbolizes the beauty of the
beings (devas) Buddha’s teachings and, as it
bear the Prince perishes, the impermanence of all
through the air. life. Vendors offer wreaths of jasmine
to be hung in cars and shrines.

Cremation
ceremonies are sober
but not morbid; they
are a rite of passage
from this life to the
next. The scale of the
pyre reflects the status
of the deceased.
Chulalongkorn’s
funeral (see pp70–71)
was one of
the grandest.

Incantations in the ancient

Pali script
The Basic Tenets of Buddhism
Buddhist cosmology encompasses many states of being and
heavenly realms. Buddhists believe in perpetual reincarnation,
whereby each life is influenced by the actions and deeds of the
previous one. This underlying philosophy of cause and effect,
known as karma, is symbolized by the “wheel of law.”
Enlightenment (nirvana) is the only state that will end the
cycle of rebirth. To reach this, Buddhists try to develop
morality, meditation, and then wisdom (the “three pillars”).
Following certain codes
of behavior in each life,
including the basic
principles of tolerance
and nonviolence, assists
in this aim.

Ritualistic tattooing is an
ancient Hindu-Buddhist custom.
The “wheel of law” on the Thai
Such tattoos are believed to act
as powerful talismans against flag of Buddhism
bad forces.
36  INTRODUCING THAILAND

The Wat Complex A mondop is a

A wat is a collection of buildings within an enclosure square-based
structure topped
serving two purposes: Buddhist monastery, temple, and with either a spire, as
community center. There are about 30,000 wats in Thailand. pictured here with the
Their construction is often funded by wealthy patrons – mondop at Wat Phra
contributing to a wat is a good way to make merit (see p133). Kaeo (see pp84–7), or
a cruciform roof. The
Each period of Thai history has seen modifications to wat edifice contains an
architecture, and the exact layout and style of buildings object of worship
vary considerably. However, the basic layout of most wats or sacred texts.
follows set principles,
as do the functions of
different buildings.

A Bodhi tree is found in many wats.

According to Buddhist lore, the Buddha
sat beneath one as he attempted to
attain enlightenment (see pp34–5).
A wall or cloister may enclose the
main part of the temple (known as
the phutthawat). A cloister sometimes
houses a row of Buddha images, and
murals may be painted on its walls.

Monks’ living quarters

and dormitories are in
a separate compound
known as the sanghawat.

The sala kanparien

is a small meeting hall,
sometimes the venue
for lectures on the
holy scriptures.
Minor salas (halls) act as
meeting places for pilgrims.

Ornamental
The ho trai, or library, pond
is used to house holy
scriptures. compar- Important Wats
atively rare feature of Wats whose names begin
wat complexes, they with Rat-, Racha-, or Maha- have
come in an assortment
been founded by royalty, or contain
of shapes and sizes;
highly revered objects (with names
this one at Wat Paknam
in Bangkok is typical of often prefaced by Phra). There are about
a ho trai in a city wat. 180 important wats in Thailand, and this
A ho trai in the country- imagined wat is typical. The bot and
side may have a high wihan are grand affairs, and there are a
base, or be surrounded number of minor salas, as well as extensive
by water to minimize monks’ quarters. Lesser wats have fewer
damage from insects. buildings and sometimes no wihan.
 A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND  37

A chedi is a solid structure

encasing a relic of the
Buddha, such as a hair
or fragment of bone, or
the ashes of a king. Wat
complexes are often built
expressly to surround a
sacred chedi.

The wihan, an assembly

hall, is very similar to but
usually larger than a bot
and not demarcated by
bai semas. There may be
several wihans. This one
at Wat Rachabophit (see
pp94–5) is, like several in
Bangkok, an eclectic mix
of architectural styles.

Buddha images in the

cloister help mark the
divide between the
profane, outer world and
the inner, sacred wat.

The cho fa, which

means “tassle of
air,” is the most
recognizably Thai
architectural detail.
Its shape is thought
to derive from a
highly stylized
Bai semas, sacred garuda, a fierce bird
boundary stones, are
used to demarcate
featured in Hindu
the consecrated mythology.
ground of the bot.

The bot (or ubosot) is the

ordination hall reserved mainly
Entrance to wat for monks. It looks like a wihan
but is surrounded by bai semas.
The bot usually faces east and
often houses the wat’s main
Buddha, as seen here at Wat
Suthat (see p94), Bangkok.

Ho rakangs or bell towers

are used to toll the hour and
summon monks to prayer.
This one at Wat Rakhang
(see p129) is a comparatively
large, ornate structure.
38  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Religious Architecture
Thailand’s religious sites span more than 11 centuries. The
materials used to build them invariably determine how much of
each site can be seen today. Hindu-Buddhist Khmer temples were
built of stone and, where restored, are fairly complete. Generally,
all that is left of the wihans and bots (see pp36–7) of the Buddhist
temples at Sukhothai and Ayutthaya are foundations and stone
pillars, though some stone structures such as chedis and mondops
are still standing. There are many fine examples of later Lanna and Gilded pediment of wihan, Wat
Rattanakosin Buddhist temples. Saket (see p91)

Khmer (9th to 13th Centuries)

Stone temple complexes, or prasats, in Northeast Thailand were built by
Khmer prangs the Khmers (see pp268–9). Most have staircases or bridges lined with
symbolized Mount stone nagas (serpents) leading to a central sanctuary which is usually
Meru, the mythical
abode of the gods.
decorated with carved stone reliefs
depicting Hindu myths and
topped by a prang (tower).
Lintels and The two most important
pediments over
the entrances
Khmer sites in Thailand are
depict Hindu Prasat Hin Khao Phnom
and Buddhist Rung (pp284–5) and Prasat
deities. Hin Phimai (see pp280–81).

The inner
chamber of the
prang housed
either a lingam
(see p269) or a
Buddha image.
Naga antefix on the prang of Prasat Hin
Central sanctuary of Prasat Hin Khao Phnom Rung Khao Phnom Rung

Sukhothai (Mid-13th to 15th Centuries)

Central lotus-
The cities of Sukhothai (see pp198–9) and Si Satchanalai (see pp202–4) bud chedi
witnessed the most radical architectural leap in Thai history. Amid
Small chedis
sacred Khmer ruins, King Si Intharathit (see p62) and his successors surround the
built wihans and bots to house Buddha images. Chedis, modeled main one.
on Sri Lankan bell-shaped reliquary towers (see p202), were added.
Niches
Vast new temple complexes, such as Wat Mahathat (see pp200–1), (foreground)
sometimes incor- once housed
Some chedis
porated a unique stucco
(background)
development, the Buddhas.
show Khmer
lotus-bud chedi. influence.

A frieze of
walking monks is
carved around
the base.

Mondop housing a Buddha image at

Wat Si Chum (see p199) Six (illustrated) of the nine chedis at the heart of Wat Mahathat
 A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND  39

Ayutthaya (Mid-14th to Late 18th Centuries)

Carved
The architects of Ayutthaya (see pp180–85) looked to the past, subtly modifying Buddhas
such features as Khmer prangs and Sri Lankan-style chedis. Temple buildings were sit in the
ornate structures, with elaborate hang hong and door and window pediments. niches of
the prang.
Few bots or wihans survived
the Burmese sack of 1767
The ringed (see pp64–5); one exception
spire of the is Wat Na Phra Men
chedi tapers to
a fine point. (see p184).

This chedi has an

entrance to the relic
chamber.

Surviving Ayutthayan wihan of Sri Lankan-style chedi of Wat Phra Si Bullet-shaped prang of Wat Ratchaburana
Wat Na Phra Men Sanphet (see pp182–3) (see p180)

Lanna (mid-13th to 19th Centuries) Square-based

Religious buildings during the Lanna period in the chedi of Wat
North (see pp66–7) were inspired first by Dvaravati Chiang Man,
architecture (see pp60–61), then later by Sukhothai, Chiang Mai
Indian, and Sri Lankan styles. Lanna’s golden age
was in the 14th–15th centuries. Unfortunately,
few buildings remain from this period. Later
18th-19th-century wats, seen in such towns
as Chiang Mai (see pp228–31), often feature
intricate woodcarving, gilded hang
hong, and murals.

Intricately carved and

gilded gables

Low, sweeping
roofline

Hang hong, Wat Phan Tao, Chiang Mai Lanna wihan of Wat Phra Sing, Chiang Mai

Rattanakosin (late 18th Century to Present)

Gilded hang hong
After the devastation of Ayutthaya, the Thais attempted to recreate their and detailing set off
lost past. The first bots and wihans built in the new capital, Bangkok, the green, red, and
were similar to Ayutthayan structures; the most notable examples orange of the
roof tiles.
can be seen at Wat Phra Kaeo (see pp86–7). Later temple buildings
were grander and more elaborate. In the 19th century, buildings
such as Wat Benchamabophit (see pp110–11)
and Wat Rachabophit (see pp94–5) were
built incorporating Western elements.
The Rattanakosin style is also known
as the Bangkok style.

Eight bai semas

(boundary stones)
Western-style encircle the bot.
stained-glass
window, Wat
Benchamabophit Early Rattanakosin bot, Wat Suthat (p94)
40  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Traditional Thai Houses

Traditional Thai houses are well adapted to the tropical
climate. Many are raised on stilts to protect from flooding.
A steeply slanting roof helps to channel rainwater off the
house, and natural materials such as hardwoods, bamboo,
and dried leaves help keep the building cool. The design
also reflects spiritual beliefs. The innermost room is believed
to be the abode of the spirits of family ancestors, and this
is usually used as the sleeping quarters. Traditional Thai
houses are most often seen in rural areas, though grand Plantation house, Northern Thailand
versions may be found in cities.

Northern Houses
Northern Thailand can be relatively cool. As a result, the windows of Northern
houses are smaller than those in the rest of the
country. The kitchen and living areas are often
joined together, which makes good use of the
available heat. Outer walls are commonly built
to slope outward, toward the roof, for strength.
In more rural areas of Northern Thailand some
houses have thatched roofs.
Decorative kalae, a
traditional feature
Traditional Northern houses, of Northern houses
constructed from teak Plain kalae

Typically the whole Slanted walls

structure of a Northern
house is raised on pillars.
An open balcony running Front
along the front of the house veranda
is common, as are plain or
decorative kalae.

Central Plains Houses

In the hot Central Plains, a large, centrally situated veranda is the dominant feature of many
traditional houses and acts for much of the year as an outside living area.
Some houses in the Central Plains have covered verandas running along
the sides of the main structure. Sometimes, a communal veranda will have
several houses clustered around it. Houses found in the Central Plains tend
to have wood-paneled walls.

Ngao Paneled walls

Central
Gate
veranda

Wood-paneled gable

The gables often have

decorative features
called ngaos, the origins of
which can be traced to
Khmer architecture.
 A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND  41

Houses on Water
River houses can be found in the Central Plains. The khlongs of early Bangkok
(see p129) had many floating shop-houses. Such houses are very practical in Thatched roof
areas prone to seasonal flooding. Houses can either be anchored to posts
above the water line, or built on bamboo
rafts so that during flood conditions they
are able to float on the rising waters.
Anchor
Loosely fitted post
floorboards

Floating houses, Sangkhla Buri (see p172)

Houses close to the river’s

edge are often anchored on
posts. Floorboards are loosely
fitted so that they move with
the water beneath them.

Royal Houses
Royal houses and mansions are typically a mixture of Thai temple
and house styles and Western architecture. The main structural
material of such buildings is usually teak, which gives them their
distinctive rich, red color. Windows and doors usually have ornate
frames and pediments, which are themselves sometimes
decorated in gilt bronze.

Cho fa Teakwood roof tiles

Window pediment, Prince of

Lampang’s Palace (see p141)
The Red House at the National
Museum (see pp92–3) is a typical
royal house. As its name reflects,
it is built entirely of teak and, like
a temple, has cho fas.

Spirit Houses
Spirit houses can be found on the grounds of many Thai homes.
They are small structures, usually elevated on a pole, and house the
spiritual guardian of the property. Resembling both dollhouses and
bird-tables, they come in a wide collection of styles: sometimes
simple replicas of the houses to which they belong, at other
times elaborate models of religious buildings. Spirit houses
are erected to placate the spirits of the land, traditionally
before the construction of the main building begins. They
are then adorned daily with incense, flowers, and food to
further mollify the spirits. Spirit worship predates Theravada
Buddhism (see pp34–5), but the flexibility of Thai religion means Decorated spirit
that worship of the Buddha and spirits is a normal part of daily life. house
42  INTRODUCING ThaIlaND

The Art of Thai Food

Thai food is justifiably renowned for its quality and
diversity – and for being as much a feast for the eyes as
for the stomach. The simplest of dishes is often served with
a carved carrot flower or a scallion tassel; a full-blown Royal
Thai meal in a high-class restaurant may be accompanied
by spectacular virtuoso fruit and vegetable carvings. The pre-rice planting festival
in Northern Thailand, like many
The cooking and presentation techniques of Thai cuisine Thai festivals, involves the pre­
are so respected that Bangkok’s celebrated cooking schools paration and consumption of a
attract pupils from all over the world. For the majority of wide variety of food.
Thais, eating is an informal, social activity. Whether it is an White radish petals around a
important family occasion, such as a wedding, an impromptu papaya heart
outdoor garden party, or a colorful festival, food will play a
central role. Many restaurants serving Northern khantoke
dinners may be aimed at tourists, but the principle of
communal sharing of food is genuinely Thai.

Royal Thai cuisine

is based on the
dishes that at
one time were
served only at the
Thai court. It is
characterized
by complex
cooking methods
and elaborate
decoration.
Royal Thai cooking
also often uses
ingredients that are
(or were) expensive,
such as ice for
chilled dishes.

Cucumber carved Papaya has a firm

into leaves texture and is a
popular fruit to carve. Radish

Fruit and Vegetable Carving

Few visitors to Thailand fail to be impressed by the exquisitely
carved fruit and vegetables that accompany many dishes in
restaurants. Scallions are transformed
into tassels and chrysanthemums;
carrots and chilies become flowers;
and tomatoes are magically turned
into roses. The practice was once
the preserve of the women of the
royal court. Today, most Thai chefs
know the basic carving skills, but
few have the dexterity and
Khantoke is a traditional way of eating application needed to master the
in Northern Thailand. Guests sit on more advanced techniques. Skilled
raised platforms around a circular practitioners, capable of producing
table and share a selection of typical Demonstrating the art of
astonishingly elaborate creations,
Northern dishes served with sticky rice. are highly esteemed. vegetable carving
 a portrait of thailand  43

Cooking schools
provide trainee chefs
and interested amateurs
with a grounding in Thai
cooking techniques,
although most chefs
learn their trade over a
period of years in a
restaurant kitchen. The
most famous schools are
in Bangkok (see p451).
Miang kham, a snack dish of ginger,
coconut, lemons, red onions, dried
shrimps, peanuts, and a syrup sauce,
Thai pumpkin
is presented here with a typical Thai
Beets, expensive in attention to detail. The idea that food
Carrot
Pumpkin Thailand, are sometimes should look as good as it tastes applies
replaced by dyed carrots. to simple as well as elaborate dishes.

Rice is endowed with spiritual significance in

Thailand (see pp30–31) as well as being the central
pillar of the country’s cuisine. Here, Brahmins
present offerings of rice in a Bangkok temple.

Luk chub are utterly exquisite

sweetmeats made to resemble
tiny vegetables. Because few
people possess the skills to
make them, they are quite
expensive, but well worth
Cucumber petals trying nonetheless.

A communal meal is the subject of this

19th-century temple mural. Although
the Thais are inveterate snackers, sitting
down for a full meal is still an important
social event. Weddings and funerals are
never without food and drink for all
guests to enjoy. Eating out of doors, in a
pavilion or a garden, is a popular way of
dining in Thailand and is known as suan
ahan. On Sundays many wats host a
large communal meal.
44  INTRODUCING THAILAND

The Ramakien
The Ramakien, the Thai version of the Indian Ramayana, is an
allegory of the triumph of good over evil. The hero, Rama, is a
paragon of virtue – the ideal king. The villain, the demon king
Tosakan, is a tragic character of great dignity. This epic tale is
thought to have become established after the Thais occupied
Angkor in the 15th century. It has been an inspiration for
painting and classical drama. All the Chakri kings have
taken Rama as one of their Hun krabok (rod puppets), in a scene
names, and the old capital from the Ramakien
of Ayutthaya (see pp180–85)
Monkey armies accompany
was named after Ayodhya, a Rama to Longka.
fictional kingdom in the story.

Buildings and chariots are

painted in Thai style even
though the story is set in
India and Sri Lanka.

Rama is a skilled archer, as this

bas-relief marble panel at Wat Pho
(see pp96–7) shows. Rama wins
Sita’s hand by stringing a bow that
no other suitor is even able to lift.

The Story
Rama, the heir to the throne of Ayodhya, is sent into exile for
14 years, through the intrigues of his stepmother. His wife, Sita,
and brother Lakshman go with him deep into the forest. Tosakan,
the demon king of Longka (Sri Lanka), abducts Sita and carries
her off to his island kingdom in the hope of marrying her.
The brothers pursue him. Hanuman, the white monkey god,
volunteers his services. Together they win the alliance of two
monkey kings, Sukrip and Chompupan, each with a powerful
army. They march south to the coast opposite Longka. The
monkey armies build a road of stone through the sea and lay
siege to Longka. Many victorious battles are waged against
Tosakan’s demon armies. Finally, when all his champions have
been defeated, Tosakan fights Rama and is killed. Rama then
crowns his ally, Piphek (Tosakan’s banished brother), as King of
Longka and returns with Sita to resume his reign in Ayodhya.

Many demons were overcome by

Rama during his forest exile. Some
recognized his divine nature. As they
Mural at Wat Phra Kaeo: Hanuman using his tail as a bridge died, his blessings released them from
the punishment of being reincarnated
as demons in the next life.
 a portrait of thailand  45

Nang yai shadow The Main Characters

plays (see p389),
based on the
Hundreds of characters are
Ramakien, were featured in the many episodes
first documented in of the epic Ramakien. However,
the 15th century. the central thread of the drama
Today this art form is carried by the five most
is rarely performed important figures, who are
in Thailand but described below.
can still be seen
in Cambodia. Rama, often
depicted with
a deep green
face, is an
In this view, the sea is narrowed to Rama in the chariot rides
incarnation
allow both countries in the tale to high above his followers,
be seen. as befits a king. of the god
Vishnu. Rama’s
purpose is to
defeat the demon
race whose
power threatens
the gods.

Sita, the daughter of

Tosakan’s consort and
incarnation of the
goddess Lakshmi,
remains loyal to Rama
while held captive
by the evil Tosakan.

Lakshman,
Rama’s loyal
younger brother, is
often shown in gold.
He accompanies
Rama into exile
in the forest.

Hanuman, the
white monkey,
son of the wind
god, is totally
Ramakien Murals at Wat Phra Kaeo devoted to
The Ramakien is beautifully depicted through a series of Rama, but
178 colorful murals, dating from the late 18th century, at Wat still finds time
Phra Kaeo (see pp84–7). In this scene Hanuman displays his to seduce
supernatural powers to assist Rama in rescuing Sita by beautiful
building a stone causeway across the sea. women.

Hanuman finds
Sita imprisoned by Tosakan (meaning
the wicked king of “ten necks”), the
Longka, Tosakan. demon king
He gives her of Longka, has
Rama’s ring and multiple heads
tells her she will and arms.
soon be rescued. In the Indian
version of the
Ramayana he is
called Ravanna.
46  INTRODUCING ThaIlaND

Thai Theater and Music

The two principal forms of classical Thai drama are khon
and lakhon. Khon was first performed in the royal court
in the 15th century, with story lines taken from the
Ramakien (see pp44–5). The more graceful lakhon,
which also features elements from the jataka tales
(see p34), was originally performed inside the palace,
but moved outside at a later date. Both khon and lakhon
involve slow, highly stylized, angular dance movements
set to the music of a piphat ensemble. Students learn gestures by
imitating their teacher. Training
begins at an early age (when limbs
Graceful gestures typify
are still supple) and includes a
classical Thai drama. Here,
weapons are raised to sequence of moves known as the
attack the enemy. Alphabet of Dancing (mae bot).

Lavish costumes, made

of heavy brocade and
adorned with jewelry, are
modeled on traditional
court garments.
White mask of
Hanuman (see p45) Ganesh, the
elephant god
Khon masks, decorated with gold
and jewelry, are treated as sacred
objects with supernatural powers.

Khon and lakhon performances are often
staged at outdoor shrines. Dancers are hired
to perform to the resident god by supplicants
whose wishes have been granted.
A Khon Performance
In khon drama, demons and monkeys wear masks,
while human heroes and celestial beings sport
crowns. As the story is told mainly through
gestures, khon can be enjoyed by non-Thais.
Visitors today are most likely to see performances
at restaurants catering to tourists.

Instruments of Classical Thai Music Ranat (xylophones)

A mahori ensemble shown in a mural
Thailand’s classical music
originated in the Sukhothai
era. The basic melody is set
by the composer, but, as no
notation is used, each
musician varies the tune and
adopts the character of the
instrument, like actors in a play.
A tuned percussion ensemble,
or piphat, accompanies
theater performances and The keys of a flat xylophone
boxing matches (see p48). produce a different tone from
A mahori ensemble includes those of a curved one.
stringed instruments.

Finger extensions empha­
sizing the graceful curves of a
dancer’s hands, are seen in
lakhon perfomances and in “nail
dances” of the North.
Natural-looking makeup
enhances the features of
characters who do not wear
masks. This replaces a heavy
white paint that was
traditionally worn.
Khong wong lek (small
gong circle)
The hollowed
hardwood body is
inlaid with ivory.
Small gongs are
struck by the player
to give the tune’s
basic melody.
a portrait of thailand  47
Likay, by far the most
popular type of dance­
drama, is a satirical form
of khon and lakhon.
The actors wear
gaudy costumes
and the plot
derives from
ancient tales
laced with
improvised Khon and lakhon troupes, employed
jokes and puns. by the royal palace until the early
20th century, are now based at
Bangkok’s Fine Arts Department.
This mural at Wat Benchamabophit,
Bangkok, depicts a scene from a
khon performance. In it, Erawan, the
elephant mount of Indra, descends
from heaven.
Hun krabok puppets,
rodded marionettes, are
operated by hidden
threads pulled from
under the costume. Hun
krabok performances are
very rare today.
Chake (“crocodile”)
The strings of a
chake are plucked. A piphat mon ensemble, including
It accompanies a vertical gong circle, plays at
fiddles and flutes in a
funerals.
string ensemble.
48  INTRODUCING ThaIlaND

Thai Boxing
Thai boxing (muay thai), Thailand’s unique
national sport, is gaining popularity worldwide.
It was first documented in 1411, but probably
evolved from an earlier form of armed combat,
krabi-krabong. Muay thai is highly ritualistic –
many techniques are inspired by battle stories
from the Ramakien (see pp44–5). The country’s
first famous boxer was Nai Khanom Dtom, who In the stadium, the audience becomes
in 1774 defeated 10 Burmese fighters. Due to a excited, shouting encouragement to
high injury rate, the sport was banned in the the boxers. Thais bet furiously, often
staking large sums on their favorite
1920s. In 1937 it was revived with rules for fighter. Bouts between famous boxers
protecting fighters. can be sold out well in advance.

This manuscript, which dates from the

early 20th century, depicts a fight
between two Thai boxers.

Training gear varies in

style from camp to camp.

Phone Kingphet was the

first world champion Thai
boxer. He trained in the
cool climate of Phu
Kradung National Park (see
pp290–91) in preparation
for his numerous
bouts abroad.
Feet are kept
bare in training
sessions, though
ankle covers may
be worn for
protection during
a match.

Types of Moves
Points are awarded for each blow to
the opponent. The groin is not a
valid target, and biting and
head-butting are not allowed.
A match may end with a
spectacular knockout.

The jumping
downward strike
elbow is a physically
A ringside piphat band is an essential element of a Thai demanding move.
boxing match. During the opening ceremony, the music is soft It gives the boxer an
in tone; when the fighting begins it switches to a more upbeat excellent vantage
“fight melody.” As the action becomes more frenzied, the music point over his
increases in tempo, adding tension to the match. opponent.
 a portrait of thailand  49

Amulets (see p83), worn

around one or both Where to See
biceps during the Thai Boxing
match, are believed to
offer protection to the Matches are held at
boxer while fighting. Ratchadamnoen Stadium
They consist of a piece (p445) every Mon, Wed, Thu &
of cord that usually Sun. Lumphini Stadium
contains a Buddha (p445) has matches on Tue, Fri
image or an herb that & Sat. For other towns, check
is thought to be lucky. sites. Several TV channels
now televise Thai Boxing.
Fists are bound with cloth for
protection during training. Before
1937, glass-impregnated hemp was The wai kru, a ritual
often used, to injure the opponent. bow, is the first part of
the ram muay, a gesture
of respect to the trainer
(kru) and the spirit of
boxing. In honor of their
training camp, boxers
often take its name as
their surname.

Before the match, the

boxer performs a slow,
solemn dance (ram muay). The
exact movements differ according
to the boxer’s camp, but usually
involve sweeping arm motions,
which are said to
draw the power of
earth, air, fire, and
water into the body.

Thai Boxing Versus Western Boxing

Thai boxing, or “kick boxing,” exerts parts of the body not
used in Western boxing, such as the feet and elbows. Thai
boxing matches are also faster paced, and are thus limited
to five rounds of three minutes, each separated by a short
break. Professional boxers, who may start the rigorous
training as young as six, often retire by 25. Several Thai
boxers have won Western boxing titles.

Kicks are common in Thai boxing. A high

kick to the neck, as shown here, may knock
out a rival. A push kick, in which one boxer
pushes the sole of his foot into the
face of the other,
is regarded as a
great insult to
the opponent.

Knee hooks can be devastating. Elbows deliver fierce blows to

To perform a “rising knee,” aimed at the face, and, like knee strikes,
either the head or body, the boxer are often decisive in matches.
pushes down his rival’s head, An elbow strike is more powerful
bringing his knee up to hit it. than a punch, the weakest blow.
50  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Festivals in Thailand waterways, and takes place by

rivers, lakes, and ponds. Small,
Thai festivals are rarely solemn occasions, and few countries lotus-shaped vessels carrying
celebrate them with so much fun and color. Annual rites offerings for Mae Kongkha are
and festivities, marking religious devotion or the passage floated to take away the sins of
the past year and to bring
of seasons, have long been an integral part of Thai life.
good luck for the future.
A 13th-century inscription reads: “Whoever wants to make Khwae River Bridge Week
merry, does so; whoever wants to laugh, does so.” This still (late November/early
applies today, with dozens of festivities taking place each December), held at
month. The main festivals, such as Songkran, are celebrated Kanchanaburi, marks the
nationwide, with the most exuberant activities taking place building of the infamous bridge
with historical displays and a
in Bangkok and other major cities. Each region has its own dramatic sound and light show.
unique festivals, too. Many festival dates change each year,
as they follow the lunar calendar.
Northern Thailand
Bo Sang, which is famous
for its hand-painted umbrellas,
holds an Umbrella Fair every
January. Umbrella painting
competitions, umbrella
exhibitions, parades, and a
“Miss Bo Sang” beauty contest
are part of the festival.
Northern Thailand shows
off its beautiful blooms to full
effect during Chiang Mai’s
Festival of Flowers in February,
when parades of lavish floral
Decorated oxen, paraded for Bangkok’s Royal Plowing Ceremony floats fill the town with
color. Events include floral
selecting one of several types exhibitions, handicraft sales,
Bangkok of food offered to them. and a beauty pageant.
Songkran, the Thai New Year, The Golden Mount Fair Mae Hong Son comes alive
is celebrated nationally from (see p54) is in November. With during its Poi Sang Long
April 12–14 (see p52). its carnival, performers, and Festival, held in late March or
In Bangkok, festivities take candlelight processions, this early April. The highlight of
place at Sanam Luang, where is Thailand’s best temple fair. this Buddhist festival is a mass
a revered Buddha image is December’s Trooping of the ordination ceremony for
bathed as part of the merit- Colors in the Royal Plaza is the
making rituals. Over the years, best of many nationwide
the festival has become a celebrations marking King
boisterous affair involving Bhumibol’s birthday (see p55).
water-throwing, when few
people escape getting soaked.
Visakha Bucha (see pp52–3), Central Plains
in May, marks the birth, Every March, pilgrims flock to
Enlightenment, and death the Temple of the Holy Footprint
of the Buddha, all said to have near Saraburi for the elaborate
occurred on the same day Phra Phutthabat Fair (see p52),
of the year. It is celebrated which has theater and folk
with candlelight processions music performances.
around important temples. Full-moon night in November
The Royal Plowing Ceremony is the occasion for Loy Krathong.
is held at Sanam Luang at It is celebrated throughout the
the start of the rice-planting country, but magically amid
season in May (see p52). The the ruins of Old Sukhothai
display features oxen plowing (see p199), where it is said to
and Brahmin priests sowing have originated. The festival
rice seeds. The oxen predict is held in honor of Mae Painting umbrellas for the Umbrella
the coming year’s harvest by Kongkha, the goddess of Festival in Bo Sang

Young Buddhist novices at the Poi Sang Long Festival in Mae Hong Son
Shan boys. Wearing sumptuous
costumes, the novices parade
through the town before
exchanging their finery for
simple monks’ robes in a
symbolic gesture of renouncing
worldly goods.
Northeast Thailand
Northeast Thailand is
renowned for its unique
festivals. In May, the town
of Yasothon hosts the Bun
Bang Fai (Rocket Festival),
perhaps the most thrilling of
Thailand’s regional cele-
brations. This two-day event,
accompanied by much high-
spirited revelry, is staged to
ensure plentiful rains during
the coming rice-planting
season. On the first day there
is a parade of carnival floats,
as well as carnivals, music,
and folk dancing. The next
day, huge, home-made rockets
are set off.
Dan Sai in Loei Province
is known for the Phi Ta Khon
Festival (see p293), held in
Mud-covered revelers at Dan Sai,
Northeast Thailand
A PORTRAIT OF THAILAND
June or July. Celebrations
begin with a parade. Locals
dressed as ghosts follow a
Buddha image through the
streets of town to make
Buddhist merit and call
for rain.
Ubon Ratchathani has a
Candle Festival in July, its
own version of the nationally
celebrated “beginning of the
rains retreat,” or Khao Phansa
(see p53). As part of the
celebrations, huge, intricately
carved beeswax candles are
exhibited on floats in the town
before being presented to
temples, where they burn
throughout the rainy season.
The national holiday of “end
of the rains retreat,” or Ok
Phansa, is celebrated in
particular style at Nakhon
Phanom in October with the
Illuminated Boat Procession.
Intricately fashioned model
boats carrying single candles
are set adrift on the Mekong
River at nightfall.
Gulf of Thailand
Modern-style merrymaking
is found at Pattaya, which
hosts the week-long Pattaya
Festival in April. Floral float
parades, beauty contests, and
fireworks displays feature amid
a non stop carnival atmos-
phere. One of Thailand’s most
colorful water festivals is
the Receiving of the Lotus
Festival, which is celebrated in
late October at Bang Phli, just
south of Bangkok. Here, Ok
Phansa is marked by a
 51
ceremony in which a locally
revered Buddha image is
showered with thousands
of lotus buds while it is
paraded by barge along
Khlong Samrong, the local
canal. Lively crowds,
thronging the canal banks,
throw flowers until only the
image’s head remains visible
above the mounting floral
offerings. Other events include
boat races, boxing matches
fought on poles placed
across the canal, and likay
theater shows.
Displays of self-mortification, part of the
Vegetarian Festival, Phuket
Southern Thailand
Traditional Southern culture
gets an airing at the week-long
Narathiwat Fair (last week of
September). This features races
between brightly painted
traditional korlae fishing boats
(see p394), as well as dove-
cooing contests and
performances of Southern
music and dance.
For sheer spectacle, it is hard
to beat Phuket’s Vegetarian
Festival (late September/early
October, see p364). This nine-
day festival, marking the start
of Taoist Lent, is celebrated by
people of Chinese ancestry.
During the festival followers
eat only vegetarian food and
take part in acts of self-
mortification, such as piercing
the body with skewers, with
no apparent harm.
52  INTRODUCING THAILAND

THAILAND THROUGH
THE YEAR
The Thai year revolves around the monsoon
seasons – which dictate the year’s farming
activities – and the religious calendar.
Most religious festivals are Buddhist, and often
observed on significant days of the lunar cycle,
such as full moon. Festivals may also mark a
seasonal change, such as the end of the rains,
or a related agricultural event, such as the
beginning of the planting season. The three
seasons – wet, cool, and hot – are produced
by the Southwest and Northeast monsoons
(see pp30–31). At the start of the wet season
farmers plant rice seedlings. The rice-growing
period is the traditional time for boys to enter
the monkhood for a few weeks. In the cool
season the drier weather ripens the crop,
which is gathered before the hot season.
Village life then slows down. During most
weeks a festival is held somewhere in the
country, especially in the cool season.

Hot Season
High temperatures combined
with high humidity make this
an uncomfortable time, April
being especially hot. With
the fields empty and rivers
running low, the landscape
appears faded and spent
in the bright sunshine.
Considering the heat, it is
not surprising that Thailand’s
traditional New Year, Songkran,
is celebrated with water.

March
ASEAN Barred Ground Dove
Fair (first week), Yala. Dove-
singing contest that attracts
bird lovers from as far away
as Cambodia, Malaysia,
Singapore, and Indonesia.
Phra Phutthabat Fair (first or
second week), Saraburi.
Celebration of the annual
pilgrimage to the Temple of
the Holy Footprint (see p176).
Phra That Chaw Hae Fair (third
week). A colorful procession of
townspeople, all dressed in
Temple of the Holy Footprint during the
Phra Phutthabat Fair
Water throwing during Songkran celebrations in Chiang Mai
traditional Lanna attire, carry
robes to cover the chedi.
Poi Sang Long Festival (late
Mar/early Apr), Mae Hong Son.
Mass ordination of 15- and
16-year-old-boys, who dress
up as princes in memory of the
Buddha’s origins.
April
Chakri Day (Apr 6).
Commemorates Rama I
founding the Chakri dynasty.
The Royal Pantheon – which
displays statues of former
kings – in Wat Phra Kaeo’s
grounds, Bangkok, is open to
the public on this day only.
Songkran (Apr 12–14).
Traditional Thai New Year.
Celebrated nationwide, but
Chiang Mai has the reputation
for the most fun (see p240).
Pattaya Festival (mid-Apr).
Features a week of food and
floral floats, beauty contests,
and a huge firework display.
Phnom Rung Fair (Apr full
moon). Daytime procession
and a nighttime sound and
light show at Prasat Hin Khao
Phnom Rung (see pp284–5).
May
Coronation Day (May 5).
Ceremony to mark the
crowning of King Bhumibol.
Royal Plowing Ceremony
(early May), Bangkok. Observes
the official start of the rice-
planting season with an
elaborate royal rite at
Bangkok’s Sanam Luang.
Bun Bang Fai (Rocket)
Festival (second week), North-
east Thailand. Home-made
rockets are fired to ensure
plentiful rains amid a carnival
atmosphere. Celebrated
exuberantly at Yasothon
(see p278).
Visakha Bucha (May full
moon). Most important date
on the Buddhist calendar.

Average Daily Hours of Sunshine
Hours
10
8 8
6 6
4 4
2 2
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Visakha Bucha celebrations at Wat
Benchamabophit, Bangkok
Celebrates the birth, Enlight-
enment, and death of the
Buddha. Sermons and candle-
lit processions at temples.
Rainy Season
The rural scene comes alive
with the advent of the
annual rains, which soften
the soil ready for plowing.
Once the rice has been
planted, there is a lull in
farming activity. This coincides
with the annual three-month
Buddhist Rains Retreat, the
period when young men
traditionally enter the
monkhood for a brief period.
This is something that young
Thai men should do at least
once in their lives. The rainy
season is a good time to
observe the ordination
ceremonies held throughout
Thailand, which blend high-
spirited festivities with deep
religious feelings.
THAILAND THROUGH THE YEAR
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
June
Phi Ta Khon Festival (Jun/Jul),
Loei. An event unique to the
Dan Sai district of Loei province,
comprising masked players
reenacting the legend of
Prince Vessandon, the Buddha’s
penultimate incarnation
(see p293).
July
Asanha Bucha (Jul full moon).
Second of the year’s three
major Buddhist festivals.
Commemorates the
anniversary of the Lord
Buddha’s first sermon to
his first five disciples.
Khao Phansa (Jul full
moon). Marks the start
of the three-month
Buddhist Rains
Retreat (which is
also referred to as
Buddhist Lent),
when monks remain in
their temples to Young man in
devote themselves to ordination robes
study and meditation.
Young men are ordained
for short periods.
Parade of candles at the Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival
 53
Sunshine Chart
Hours
Even during the rainy
10
season, most days have
some sunshine. The
tropical sun can be fierce,
and precautions against
sunburn and sunstroke
should be taken. Sun-
screen, a sun hat and
sunglasses are highly
recommended. Drink
plenty of water to reduce
the risk of dehydration.
Candle Festival (Jul full moon),
Ubon Ratchathani. Unique
festival held in the Northeast
to mark the beginning of Khao
Phansa. Features parades of
carved candles (made by
villagers from all over the
province) displayed on
floats and later presented to
temples throughout the city.
Some candles are several
meters tall (see p307).
August
Her Majesty the Queen’s
Birthday (Aug 12).
Buildings and streets
are lavishly decorated
in honor of Queen
Sirikit’s birthday.
The most elaborate
decorations can
be seen in Bangkok,
especially along
Ratchadamnoen
Avenue and around
the Grand Palace,
where the streets
and government
offices are exuberantly
adorned with colored lights.
54  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Average Monthly Rainfall (Bangkok) Rainfall Chart

Inches
Thailand’s rainfall is not
MM
300
evenly distributed.
12
The southern peninsula
240 has the highest, some
9 95 inches (2,400 mm)
180 annually; the north and
6 central regions receive
120 51 inches (1,300 mm).
3 In many places, torrential
60
rain falls almost daily
0 0 during the rainy season,
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec from June to October.

September placed by the King’s eques-

Food and Fruits Fair (first week), trian statue by the Royal
Nakhon Pathom. Held at
Thailand’s largest Buddhist
temple, Phra Pathom Chedi.
Cooking, folk theater,
and floral floats.
Phichit Boat Races
(Sep), Nan. This
annual regatta
takes place on the
Nan river as part of
the Nan Provincial
Mangoes on display at
Fair and features
Nakhon Pathom
traditional low-
slung boats.
Narathiwat Fair (last week).
A good opportunity to
experience Southern culture.
October
Vegetarian Festival (early Oct).
Trang and Phuket provinces
(see p364). Self-mortification
rituals following abstinence
from meat.
Chulalongkorn Day (Oct 23),
Bangkok. Commemorates the
death of Rama V (King Chula-
longkorn). Floral tributes are
Colorful spectacle of the boat races at Nan in Northern Thailand
Cool Season
Plaza in Bangkok. After the rains, the skies
Receiving of the Lotus Festival clear and the air cools to a
(late Oct), Bang Phli (see p51). comfortable warmth. The
The end of the rains countryside looks its best,
celebrated by lush and green from the rains,
pouring lotus buds with full rivers and waterfalls.
over a locally rev- In general this is the best time
ered Budda image. to visit Thailand, especially
Ok Phansa (Oct full during the coolest months
moon). Nationwide of December and January.
celebration of the Numerous festivals, to
Lord Buddha’s reap- celebrate of the end of
pearance on Earth the rains, afford a period
after a season spent of relaxation before rural
preaching in heaven. Marks the activity climaxes with the
end of the Buddhist Rains Retreat. rice harvest in December
Krathin (begins Oct full moon). and January.
One-month period during
which monks are presented November
with new robes. Golden Mount Fair (first week),
Nan Boat Races (late Oct). Bangkok. Thailand’s largest
Festive regatta (see p259). temple fair, held at the foot
Illuminated Boat Procession of the Golden Mount.
(Oct full moon), Nakhon Phanom. Elephant Roundup (third
Boats with candles and offerings week), Surin. Annual spectacle
set afloat down the Mekong honoring the many and
River. Entertainments provided varied roles played by the
in the town (see p300). elephant in Thailand’s
development (see p282).
More than 150 elephants
take part in displays of forestry
skills and a mock battle.
Khwae River Bridge Week
(late Nov/early Dec), Kancha-
naburi. Commemorates the
construction of the bridge
by POWs and slave labor.
Loy Krathong (Nov full moon).
One of Thailand’s best-loved
national festivals. Pays homage
to the goddess of rivers and
waterways, Mae Khongkha.
In the evening, people gather
at rivers, lakes, and ponds to
float krathongs. Sukhothai is
the best place to watch this
festival (see p199).

Average Monthly Temperature (Bangkok)
°C
30
25
20
15
10
5 40
0 30
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
December
Trooping of the Colors
(Dec 3), Royal Plaza,
Bangkok. A very impressive
ceremony that offers a vivid
picture of regal pageantry.
It is presided over by the king
and queen and features
members of the elite Royal
Guards, arrayed in bright dress
uniform. The guardsmen swear
allegiance to the king and
march past members of the
royal family.
His Majesty the King’s
Birthday (Dec 5). Government
and private buildings
throughout the country are
elaborately decorated, and
the area around the Grand
Palace is illuminated. In the
evening, crowds gather
around Sanam Luang for
celebrations. This occasion
shows the deep respect
Thais have for their king.
Wat Phra Kaeo on the King’s Birthday
thailand through the year  55
Temperature Chart
°F For visitors from temperate
90
climes, Thailand is hot
and humid throughout
80 the year, especially in the
70 South. It is uncomfortably
so during April and May,
60
pleasantly so in November
50 and December. Though it
is less humid in Northern
Thailand, it can be chilly
at night during the
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
coolest months.
Soldiers in dress uniform for the Trooping of the Colors in Bangkok
January festivals. Merit-making
Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb). and candlelit processions
Not an official holiday, but this at temples.
three-day festival is widely
observed by the large number
Public Holidays
of Thais of Chinese origin.
Umbrella Fair (mid-Jan), Western New Year’s Day
Bo Sang, Chiang Mai province. (Jan 1)
Celebrates traditional paper Makha Bucha
and wood umbrella making (Feb or Mar full moon)
(see p232). Chakri Day (Apr 6)
Don Chedi Memorial Fair Thai New Year – Songkran
(late Jan), Suphan Buri (Apr 13-15 )
province. Marks the victory
Labour Day (May 1)
of King Naresuan of
Ayutthaya over the Coronation Day (May 5)
Burmese. The highlight of Royal Plowing
the events is an elephant- Ceremony (early May)
back duel. Visakha Bucha Day
(May full moon)
February Asanha Bucha and Khao
Festival of Flowers Phansa (Jul full moon)
(first week), Chiang Mai. Queen’s Birthday
Beautiful blooms of (Aug 12)
the north displayed Chulalongkorn Day
on floral float parades. (Oct 23)
Kite Flying Season
King’s Birthday (Dec 5)
(Feb–Apr), Sanam Luang,
Bangkok. Colorful displays Constitution Day
and kite flying contests. (Dec 10)
Makha Bucha (Feb full Western New Year’s Eve
moon). Third of the (Dec 31)
year’s major Buddhist

THE HISTORY OF
THAILAND
The history of Thailand is that of an area
rather than of a single nation, and over the
centuries numerous peoples have made their
home in this region. The most recent were
the Tai of Southern China, who migrated
south in the first millennium AD, and from
whom most Thais are descended.
Prehistoric Thailand was once regarded
as a cultural backwater. In the Northeast
of the country, however, archaeologists
uncovered the earliest evidence of
agriculture and metallurgy in Southeast
Asia. Also among the finds were ceramic
pots, some dating as far back as 3000 BC,
that display a high level of artistic skill.
The earliest known powers in the region
were the Dvaravati Kingdom (6th–11th
centuries AD), the Sumatran-based Srivijaya
Empire (7th–13th centuries), and the Khmer
Empire (9th–13th centuries) based at Angkor
(see pp268–9), all of which were heavily
influenced by Indian culture and religion.
The Lanna Kingdom in the North and the
Sukhothai Kingdom, which imported
Theravada Buddhism to Thailand, in the
Dutch map of the city of Ayutthaya, probably drawn in the 17th century
Chakri painted screen, dating from the late 18th century
INTRODUCING THAILAND  57
Central Plains grew in power from around
the 12th century. Of all its kings,
Ramkamhaeng (1279–98) stands out:
part heroic myth, part historical figure.
Sukhothai was conquered by the Kingdom
of Ayutthaya – also Tai – in the 14th century.
At its height ruling most of what is now Thai-
land, the city of Ayutthaya saw the arrival of
the first Europeans. The city was destroyed
by the Burmese in 1767. A new city, Krung
Thep (Bangkok), was built farther south,
on the Chao Phraya River, and the Chakri
dynasty founded. In the 19th century Kings
Mongkut and Chulalongkorn modernized
Thailand, and the country resisted
colonization by France and Britain.
The 1932 revolution ended absolute
monarchy, and in 1939 Phibun Songkram,
formerly a soldier in the Thai army, changed
the country’s name from Siam to Thailand.
There have been a number of military coups
since then, and a cycle of economic boom
and bust in the 1980s and 1990s. In 2014, the
military deposed Prime Minister Shinawatra
and established an interim government.
58  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Prehistoric Thailand
Spirit Cave and
Hunter-gatherers were already established in the area of Banyan Valley Cave

modern-day Thailand by around 40,000 BC. They lived in Ban Chiang

Phu Phrabat
semi-permanent settlements and made tools from wood and Ban Na Di

and stone. Ancient seed husks found in caves in Northern Pha Taem

Thailand have led to speculation that agriculture began to Don Tha Phet
and Ban Kao
develop around 9000 BC. Rice was being cultivated around
3000 BC. Subsequently, in the area of Ban Chiang, elaborate
pottery and bronze work began to be produced. This Bronze Prehistoric Sites
Age culture is believed by some historians to be the earliest
in the world.
The flared rim and slightly
more complex geometric
Ban Kao Tripod pattern on this black and white,
cord-incised pot were new
This three-legged, terracotta
stylistic features.
pot was made by Neolithic
artisans around 2100 BC.
It was found at Ban
Kao (see p174) in the
Central Plains.

Bronze Axe Head Molded shoulders

The earliest bronze
artifacts found at Ban
Chiang, such as this
axe head, are
thought to date
A black and white
from about pattern was created
2100 BC. by incising the clay
with cord.

Clay feet

2100 BC

c.1600 BC
Ban Chiang Pottery
Pots found at Ban Chiang (see p276) date from 2100 BC to
Clay Molds AD 200. Until their discovery in 1966, this area of Southeast
Clay molds confirm that bronze objects Asia was thought to have produced little of cultural merit
were cast at Ban Chiang and not in prehistoric times. These, and other finds, show that the
imported from elsewhere. indigenous peoples were capable of producing sophisticated,
beautiful works of art.

40,000 BC Bronze 2100–1500 BC 1000 BC Cave and

Hunter-gatherers spearhead Bronze artifacts cliff paintings at Pha
in area of 6000 BC First and elaborate Taem (pp302–3)
modern-day pottery created by 3000 BC Domestication of
cord-marked
Thailand inhabitants of animals (pigs, dogs, pottery created at
Spirit Cave chickens, and cattle) Ban Chiang
50,000 BC 5000 BC 4000 BC 3000 BC 2000 BC 1000 BC

3500 BC Rice chaff left in Banyan Valley 2000 BC Clay and 1000 BC Bronze
Cave – beginning of rice cultivation bronze pots created at animals cast at Don
Ban Kao Tha Phet
9000–7000 BC Seed and plant husks left in
caves in Northern Thailand may indicate the
beginnings of agriculture
 THE HISTORY OF THAILAND  59

Iron Age Rooster

A find of bronze and iron artifacts Where to See Prehistoric
at Don Tha Phet, near Kanchanaburi Thailand
(see p174), includes this iron rooster
from about 1000 BC. At Ban Chiang (see p276) visitors
can see burial sites and artifacts
housed in the Ban Chiang
National Museum. More Ban
Chiang artifacts can be seen in
the Bangkok National Museum
(pp92–3). At Ban Kao (p174) there
are burial sites and a museum,
and cave paintings can be seen at
Pha Taem (pp302–3) and Phu
Phrabat Historical Park (p299).
Cave Painting
These paintings at Pha Taem date from
around 1000 BC. The artists were
probably descended from the
early inhabitants of Ban Chiang.
Paint rather than
cord is used to
create a complex
geometric pattern.

Burial sites at Ban Chiang were

filled with pots that were placed
around the dead.

Narrow stand

300 BC–AD 1

Rust-colored geometric 300 BC–AD 200

designs were painted on
a beige ground.
Bronze Bracelets
As well as practical objects, the craftsmen
of Ban Chiang were skilled at making
elaborate jewelry. These bracelets
probably date from the height of Ban
Chiang’s Bronze Age, around 300–200 BC.

500 BC Bronzeware created at Ban Na Di Limestone

sculpture of
1st–6th centuries AD Indianized Kingdom of Vishnu (4th
Funan exerts strong cultural influence on the century AD)
area around the Central Plains

C AD 1 100 200 300 AD 400

1st century AD Indian 3rd–5th centuries

merchants begin to arrive Kingdom of Dan Sun
in the Thai peninsula in South flourishes
(see pp350–51) and trades with Indian
Ban Chiang pot
merchants
(300 BC–AD 200)
60  INTRODUCING THAILAND

The First States

From the first few centuries BC Hindu and Buddhist
missionaries from India and Sri Lanka came to Southeast
Asia. Over the next millennium distinctly Indianized kingdoms
emerged. The Dvaravati Kingdom (6th–11th centuries)
flourished in what is now the heart of Thailand; the
Srivijaya Empire of Sumatra (7th–13th centuries) was
strong in the peninsula (see pp350–51); while the Khmer
Empire (9th–13th centuries) expanded from Cambodia Khmer Empire in AD 960
(see pp268–9). The Tai, from southern China, migrated Extent of Khmer Empire
to the area from the 11th century onward.

Flying Buddha (8th–9th centuries)

This Dvaravati sculpture shows the Buddha
on the back of Panaspati, a strange beast
that comprises Nandin the bull, Shiva’s
mount, and a garuda (a mythical bird).

Vishnu, asleep on
the back of the
naga, dreams of
a new universe.

Stone Relief
Dvaravati craftsmen
were renowned for
their stonework. They
excelled at bas-reliefs
such as this one, at Wat
Suthat (see p94), which
depicts Buddhist and
Hindu figures.

Dvaravati Deities
Dvaravati bas-reliefs, found
in a cave near Saraburi,
central Thailand, depict The naga (serpent)
Brahma, Vishnu, the Buddha, bearing Vishnu represents
and flying figures. the Milky Sea of Eternity.

Early 6th century Mon people
establish Dvaravati culture.
They have already inherited
Buddhism from Indian
missionaries
7th century 8th century Tai people
Srivijaya civilization inhabit the upland valleys
expands from of Laos, northern Vietnam,
Sumatra and southern China
Dvaravati coin

500 600 700 800

AD 661 Haripunchai said to be founded
at Lamphun, Northern Thailand 9th century
Dvaravati (see p233), by Buddhist holymen Khmer Empire
stucco head 7th century Chamadevi of founded at
Lop Buri becomes Queen Angkor
of the Dvaravati Kingdom
 THE HISTORY OF THAILAND  61

Devaraja
This Khmer bas- Where to See the
relief, one of many
found at Angkor Wat
First States
(see pp268–9), shows Dvaravati, Srivijayan, and Khmer
the god-king, or artifacts can be seen at the
devaraja, King Bangkok National Museum
Suryavarman II (see pp92–3) as well as at other
(1113–50). regional national museums.
Two Dvaravati-style chedis can
be seen at Wat Chama Thewi in
Terra-cotta Lion (8th-century) Lamphun (p233). Phra Boromathat
Dvaravati figures, such as this lion from Chaiya (p337) is the best-surviving
Phetchaburi (see pp332–3), were example of a Srivijayan temple.
influenced by earlier Gupta art Khmer sites in Thailand include
from India. Prasat Hin Phimai (pp280–81)
and Prasat Hin Khao Phnom
Rung (pp284–5).

The Creator, Brahma,

sitting on a lotus
blossom springing
from Vishnu’s
stomach, has the task
of realizing Vishnu’s
dream of creating
a new universe.

Prasat Hin Phimai was built

mostly during the reign
of Suryavarman I in the
11th century.

Srivijayan Buddha
This Buddha image, one of the
most notable of the Srivijaya
period, was found in Chaiya
(see p337), an ancient city in
peninsular Thailand.

Khmer Lintel
The Khmers built temples throughout their vast empire, many
of which are in present-day Northeast Thailand. Intricate
stone carvings are a striking feature of the monuments – the
characters depicted (see p45) are mainly Hindu, though some
are Mahayana Buddhist. This lintel, from Prasat Hin Khao
Phnom Rung (see pp284–5), depicts a Hindu creation myth.

11th–13th centuries Lop Buri

incorporated into Khmer Empire
as a significant provincial capital
1001–1002 Reign of 1229–43 Reign of Indravarman II
Udayadityavarman, who invades
Haripunchai (Lamphun) 1115–55 Lop Buri tries to
following an assault on assert its independence
Lop Buri from Khmer control

900 1000 1100 1200

10th–12th centuries 11th–12th centuries

Population of Tai 1113–50 Reign of
Srivijaya becomes involved in 1181–1220 Reign of
people increases in Suryavarman II
ruinous wars with Chola Jayavarman VII, the most
state in India areas of present-day powerful and innovative
Thailand, then under Lop Buri Buddha of the Khmer kings
Khmer control
62  INTRODUCING THAILAND

The Kingdom of Sukhothai

Sukhothai was the first notable kingdom of the Tai people,
centered around the city of Sukhothai (see pp198–201) in the
Central Plains. The Khmers referred to the Tai as Siam, a name
that came to be used for this and subsequent Tai kingdoms.
Theravada Buddhism achieved new expression during the
Sukhothai period, in innovative architecture and images
of the Buddha finely cast in bronze. Sukhothai was made Sukhothai in 1300
powerful by its most illustrious ruler, Ramkamhaeng, Sukhothai Kingdom
but by 1320 was only a local power again.

Potteries and other

industries were located
north of the city.

Minor wats on
low hills

Wat Chang Lom,

the symbolic
Ramkamhaeng (c.1279–98)
power center
This modern relief depicts
Ramkamhaeng, Sukhothai’s most
illustrious ruler. He extended the
kingdom and negotiated treaties
with neighboring states.

Inscription No. 1 (1292)

Ramkamhaeng is credited
with inventing the Thai
alphabet and using it to
record the history of
Sukhothai on this stone.
Rice fields
and houses

Roof Decoration
Ceramics were used to adorn
buildings. This one is from
the 14th century.
Reconstruction of Si Satchanalai
Sukhothai’s twin city, Si Satchanalai (see
pp202–3) was the classic Thai muang or
city-state. Within the walls was the symbolic
power center of the crown prince. Beyond
were the life-giving waters of the Yom River,
rice fields, homes, and potteries, all within a
ring of forested mountains, the outer limits
of the muang.

c.1240s Si 1287
Intharathit is first Ramkamhaeng
known king of forges alliance
c.1279 Ramkamhaeng is made king; during his
Sukhothai with states of
reign Sukhothai becomes a large kingdom
Lanna (see pp66–7)
and Phayao
1240 1260 1280
1283 According to legend,
Ramkamhaeng modifies
c.1270–79 Reign of Sri Lankan script to create
Ban Muang; Sukhothai Thai alphabet
remains merely a local
King Ramkamhaeng 1294 Ramkamhaeng campaigns in the
power
south, near Phetchaburi
 THE HISTORY OF THAILAND  63

Slate Engraving
This 14th-century Where to See the
engraving shows the Sukhothai Kingdom
Buddha being
reincarnated as a The main sites are Sukhothai itself
horse. It is one of a (see pp198–201), Si Satchanalai
series discovered at (pp202–4), and Kamphaeng Phet
Wat Si Chum (see (pp196–7). Artifacts are housed in
p199) at Sukhothai. the Bangkok National Museum
(pp92–3), the Ramkamhaeng
National Museum (pp198–9), the
Sawankha Woranayok National
Museum (p204), and the
Minor wat Sangkhalok Pottery
Kamphaeng Phet National
Sawankhalok was the old
Museum (see p196).
name for Si Satchanalai, where
many kilns (see pp164–5)
were sited. From this
derives the name
Rapids Sangkhalok, given to
13th–15th-century
pottery from the
Sukhothai Kingdom.

Royal Palaces
Wat Sa Si (see p199) is just one of
dozens of wats at Sukhothai
Historical Park.

A lak muang (city pillar)

was built to appease the
spirits of the land.

Four main wats run

parallel to the Walking Buddha
Yom River. New, sophisticated
techniques for
casting bronze
The perimeter was produced this classic
triple-walled and moated; 14th-century Walking
spikes around the moat Buddha image.
deterred war elephants.

14th to 15th century 1346–7

1298 Ramkamhaeng dies Sangkhalok bowl Reign of
Ngua Nam
End of 13th century Thom
Sukhothai first called
Siam by Chinese
1300 1320 1340
1298–1346 Reign of
Lo Thai, who succeeds 1321 Tak, formerly part of Sukhothai, falls under
Ramkamhaeng. Empire Lanna control; Sukhothai is now a small kingdom,
begins to unravel one of many competing states
14th to 15th century 1347–68 Reign of Maha
Sukhothai stoneware Thammaracha I
64  INTRODUCING THAILAND

The Kingdom of Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya supplanted Sukhothai as the most powerful
kingdom in Siam in the mid-14th century and by 1438
had incorporated it into its empire. By the mid-16th century
Ayutthaya controlled the entire Central Plains area and at
its height held sway over much of what is now Thailand.
The Ayutthaya period saw military, legal, and administrative
reforms and a flowering of the arts, as well as diplomatic Ayutthaya in 1540
and trade links with the West (see pp166–7). Its end came
Kingdom of Ayutthaya
after years of conflict with Burma, when in 1767 the
capital was sacked.

Gold Elephant
The Ayutthayans
were masters at
working gold. This
elephant, studded with
gems and crafted to
look as though it is paying
homage, was discovered
in Wat Ratchaburana.
Ayutthayan Frescoes
Few frescoes have survived. These,
from the 15th century, are from Wat
Ratchaburana in Ayutthaya
(see pp180–85).
Ornate, stylized carvings
Votive Tablets
Clay and terra-cotta tablets A huge oar at the
from the Ayutthaya period stern helped steer
often show the Buddha the boat.
resplendent beneath
a naga (serpent).
Gold lacquer was
used to decorate
the barges.

Reconstruction of a Royal Barge

When foreigners (farangs) first came to
Ayutthaya, they often met the sight of
grand royal barges. This illustration is
based on French engravings in some
of the first accounts of the opulent
city of Ayutthaya to reach the West.

1351 Ayutthaya is 1448–88 Reign of

established and 1409–24 Reign of Borommatrailokanat,
Ramathibodi I Intharacha who introduces far reaching
becomes king administrative and legal reforms

1350 1400 1450 1500

1388-95 Ramesuan 1491–1529 Reign of

captures Chiang Mai 1424-48 Ramathibodi II
in Lanna (pp66–7) Borommaracha II
conquers Angkor 1507–15 Ayutthaya at
war with Lanna
Ayutthayan coin
 THE HISTORY OF THAILAND  65

Gilded Lacquer Cabinet

The craftsmen of Ayutthaya were Where to See Ayutthaya
adept at working wood. The doors
of this cabinet are inlaid with gold; The city of Ayutthaya in the South
the pattern is of trees. Other such Central Plains has some of the
cabinets depict scenes from the most spectacular ruins in Thailand
jataka or Westerners. (see pp180–85). Ayutthayan
artifacts are housed in the Chao
Sam Phraya National Museum
(p182) and in the Bangkok
National Museum (pp92–3).

Door Panel from

Ayutthaya
This 17th to 18th
century wood panel
once formed part of the
door of a temple. It was Wat Chai Watthanaram, built
discovered in Wat by King Prasat Thong in 1630.
Huntra in Ayutthaya.

Carving of the king

Royal insignia

The oarsmen would

chant barge songs to
keep paddling in time.

Deva Figure
Carved “angels,” such as this
18th-century figure, were
used in religious ceremonies.

Ayutthayan soldier
1585–7 Naresuan 1660 Narai tries to take Chiang Mai and 1766 Burmese
defeats Burmese Lampang in Lanna from Burmese rule, forces, after
twice 1593 Naresuan but is repelled by a Burmese army taking Chiang
defeats Burmese at Mai, besiege
1555 Naresuan Battle of Nong Sarai 1685 First French mission
is born in Ayutthaya Ayutthaya
(pp66–7)
1550 1600 1650 1700 1750
1608 Siam sends its 1767
1564 first diplomatic 1662 Narai invades
Ayutthaya
Burmese mission to Europe Burma
King Narai sacked,
invade the 1688 Narai’s death leads to capital moves
Kingdom of 1569–90 Ayutthaya “revolution” in Ayutthaya to Thon Buri
Ayutthaya under Burmese rule
66  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Lanna and Burmese Kingdoms

The northern kingdom of Lanna was established at the same
time as Sukhothai and endured for 600 years. Its first ruler,
Mengrai, extended Lanna rule into Burma (now Myanmar),
and the reigns of Ku Na and Tilok saw a golden age. Wars
with Burma and Ayutthaya in the 16th and 17th centuries,
however, led to decline. Ayutthaya had driven the Burmese
out of Lanna once before, but in 1615 the Burmese took Lanna in 1540
back the Lanna capital, Chiang Mai, for almost a century.
Lanna Kingdom
In the late 1700s, newly allied Siamese and Lanna forces
drove the Burmese out. Lanna remained autonomous into
the 19th century.

Naresuan, on his
Golden Door elephant, engages
Decorated with gold the Burmese
leaf, this temple door crown prince.
is at Wat Phra That
Lampang Luang
(see pp238–9),
one of the oldest Ayutthayan
soldiers, in tra-
Lanna structures ditional helmets, rally
in Thailand. round Naresuan.

Lanna Elephant
This bronze elephant,
from the 16th century, was
used as a pedestal upon
which Buddhist merit
offerings were presented.

Battle of Nong Sarai (1593)

Bronze Buddha The Burmese attempted to control all of
Buddha images such as this Siam, and in 1564, invaded Ayutthaya. This
one from the 14th–15th 19th-century painting shows the Battle of
century are regarded as Nong Sarai, when Naresuan (1590–1605)
the pinnacle of classical defeated the Burmese crown prince and
Lanna art. After the Ayutthaya gained independence. In 1598
Burmese took the
Ayutthaya drove Burma from the north, but
north, this style of
Lanna art declined.
in the 17th century the Burmese retook it.

1259–1317 Reign of Mengrai; northern principalities unified 1441–82 Reign of Tilok

1289 Mengrai extends Lanna control into Burma

1442–3 Ayutthaya
1292 Chiang Mai 1355–85 Reign of Ku Na sends an army
founded leads to period of stability against Lanna
1250 1300 1350 1400 1450 1500
1281 Mengrai 1369 Ku Na invites a Sukhothai
conquers Hari- monk, a follower of Sri Lankan 1456–7 Lanna and
punchai (p233) Buddhism (p202), to establish Ayutthaya are engaged
a monastery in Chiang Mai in a protracted war for
1262 Chiang Rai
(pp254–5) founded control of the upper
King Mengrai Central Plains
 THE HISTORY OF THAILAND  67

Model Wihan
Models of wihans are
common throughout
Thailand. This Lanna one,
from the 18th–19th century,
cast in bronze, has a high
base, an exaggerated version
of the bases found on many
Lanna temple buidings.
Where to See Lanna and
Burmese Thailand
Lanna artifacts can be seen in
national museums at Chiang
Mai, Lamphun (see p233), and
Bangkok. Chiang Mai (pp228–31),
Chiang Khong (p253), Lamphun,
and Lampang (p240) all have
buildings that date from the
Lanna period. Mae Hong Son
(pp220–21) and Phrae (pp262–3)
have buildings showing
Burmese influence.

Burmese Dancer
This temple mural of a
Burmese dancing girl
is from Chiang Mai (see
pp228–31). A number of
wats in the North bear
similar indications of
Burmese occupation. The ho trai (scripture library)
of Wat Phra Sing, Chiang Mai,
is one of the most notable late
Lanna structures in Thailand.
Burmese soldiers wear
simple bandanas around
their heads.

Lanna Coin
During the 18th and 19th
centuries, bronze rings
were used as coinage
in the Lanna Kingdom.

Lanna Wood Carvings

The pediment of the 19th-century wihan at Wat
Pan Tao (see p229) is typical of the elaborate
work produced by Lanna wood carvers.

1558 Burmese take Chiang 19th-century Lanna box

Mai for the first time 1660 Narai of
Ayutthaya attempts
1590 Ayutthaya establishes to wrest control of
independence from Burma North from Burmese
at Battle of Nong Sarai but is repulsed
1550 1600 1650 1700 1750 1800
1615 Burma regains control 1727 General Thip
over Lanna proclaims himself 1776 Taksin
king of Lampang of Thon Buri and
1598 Naresuan of Ayutthaya expels Burma from
after defeating Kawila of Lampang
the North, though this is short-lived
Burmese reconquer
15th to 17th century Lanna Buddha Chiang Mai
 68  INTRODUCING THAILAND

The Early Chakri Dynasty

After the sack of Ayutthaya, Taksin, an army general,
established a new capital at Thon Buri, on the west bank of
the Chao Phraya opposite what would later become Bangkok.
He became king in 1768, and in 10 years Siam was a regional
power again. However, he became increasingly despotic and,
in 1782, was ousted by the military commander Chao Phraya
Chakri, who was later pronounced King Rama I. Chakri’s Siam in 1809
descendant, King Mongkut (Rama IV), modernized Siam,
Siamese territories
opening it up to foreign trade and influence.

Chakri Kings
The reigns of Ramas I, II, and III signaled an era of stable
monarchical rule. Rama II was a literary man, while Rama III
was a great merchant.

Khlongs are an
important means of
transportation
Chakri Throne
The Busabok Mala Maha
Piman Throne was built in The Grand Palace
the reign of Rama I (see pp84–9) was
founded in the late
for important
18th century; by the
occasions. It is in mid-19th century
the Grand Palace it is already vast.
(see pp84–9).

Sir John Bowring

The Bowring Treaty (1855)
allowed the British free
trade. Later, Siam forged
similar treaties with other
colonial powers, thus
avoiding annexation.

1800 Burmese finally 1813 Siam withdraws

1768 Taksin begins to expelled from Siam from Cambodia leaving
re-establish Siamese Vietnam as dominant
Empire 1797 Rama I
power
“writes” Ramakien
Ramakien mural (see pp44–5)
1770 1780 1790 1800 1810

1785 Massive Burmese

invasion repulsed
1782 Rama I overthrows an 1805 Rama I appoints a 1808–24 Reign
increasingly despotic 1783 Wat Phra committee of judges to of Rama II
Taksin; relocates capital Kaeo begun reform Siamese law
 THE HISTORY OF THAILAND  69

Where to See Early

Chakri Thailand
Almost all the best examples of
architecture from the early Chakri –
or Rattanakosin (see p39) –
period can be seen in Bangkok.
The earliest Chakri building is
the bot of Wat Phra Kaeo (p84).
Thai Etiquette (1855) Other examples include the bot
In mid-19th century Siam, prostrating oneself before of Wat Suthat (p94), the wihan of
a superior was common. It was officially abolished Wat Suthat, Wat Pho (pp96–7),
by Rama V (see pp70–71). and Phra Nakhon Khiri in
Phetchaburi (p334).

Mongkut (1851–68)
Before coming to Wat Suthat, built in the early
the throne, Mongkut, 19th century by Rama I, is the
pictured here with his site of Bangkok’s tallest wihan.
favorite wife, traveled
widely, meeting
many Westerners.

Thon Buri, on the

western bank of the
Chao Phraya, is still
just a small town.

Early Bangkok (Krung Thep)

The Siamese capital was moved from Thon Buri to
the east of the river in 1782 as a defense against the
Burmese. Its official 43-syllable name matches the
majesterial plans that Rama I had for his new city: King Mongkut Mural
the first two words, “Krung Thep,” mean “city of angels.” In this mural King Mongkut is in his palace
This mural from 1864 shows the temples and river observing an eclipse through a telescope,
his subjects below him.
houses of early Bangkok.

1824–51 Reign of
Rama III 1840s Siam dominant 1855 Signing of the
in Cambodia Bowring Treaty
Chakri coin

1820 1830 1840 1850 1860

1826 Limited 1830s Siam goes to war in 1868 Mongkut, Rama IV, dies.
trade agreement, Cambodia, to defend Buddhism 15-year-old King Chulalongkorn
Burney Treaty, against the Vietnamese accedes to the throne, his
signed powers constrained by the
1827 Vientiane is sacked by Rama IV appointment of a regent
Siamese army (1851)
70  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Reign of King Chulalongkorn

Perhaps the greatest king of the Chakri dynasty,
Chulalongkorn (1868–1910) carried on the modernization
of Siam that his father, Mongkut, had started. Financial
reforms were made, the government restructured, and
slavery abolished. Reform angered older ministers, the
“conservatives” (hua boran), and led to the Front Palace
Crisis of 1875. This was also a time when Britain and Siam in 1909
France were consolidating their positions in Southeast
Siamese territories
Asia. Chulalongkorn’s policies and diplomacy kept the
Ceded territories
colonial powers at bay, though parts of Burma, Laos,
Cambodia, and the Malay states were ceded to them.

Rama V
Chulalongkorn (Rama V)
came to the throne, under
the guidance of a regent, at
the age of 15. He had received
an excellent Thai and Western
education and was well
qualified for the task of
reforming Siam.

Soldiers attending
the cremation wore
colonial uniforms.

Drummers wore
traditional Thai
headdresses.

Life on the Khlongs

At the end of the 19th century,
and into the 20th, Bangkok was Classical Dancers at Court
known as the “Venice of the Many Siamese traditions, among them
East” (see p129). classical dance, remained unchanged.
Scenes such as this were often
recorded with the aid of new
technology – photography.

1874 Chulalongkorn 1887 Prince Devawongse attends the

(Rama V) introduces a
series of reforms that
anger the “conservatives”
or hua boran
1870
1874 Thai High
Commissioner sent to
govern Lanna
1875
1875 Front Palace Crisis –
the “conservatives”
demonstrate their anger.
Chulalongkorn has to
tone down some of
his reforms
celebrations, in London, of Queen Victoria’s
50th year; the prince studies European
government with a view to reform in Siam
1880 1885
1885 Enlightened
1888 New
Prince Devawongse
administrative
made Foreign Minister
system,
Tile detail, Wat centralizing power,
Rachabophit is introduced
 THE HISTORY OF THAILAND  71

Franco-Siamese Crisis
In an attempt to con- Where to See Late
solidate her hold over Chakri Thailand
Indochina, in 1893 France
asserted sovereignty over During the latter part of the
Siamese-controlled Laos. 19th century there was little
This cartoon shows a change in the basic style of
French “wolf” hungrily religious buildings. Chulalongkorn,
assessing a Siamese “lamb.” however, left his mark on some
buildings in Bangkok. Wat
Benchamabophit (see pp110–11)
employs an eclectic mixture of
Chinese, Italian, and Khmer styles,
Chulalongkorn’s while Wat Rachabophit (pp94–5)
body was cremated in displays traditional Thai and
this funeral tower. Western motifs.

At Wat Rachabopit, Rama V had

the interior decorated in
Italianate-Thai style.

Cremation of Chulalongkorn
Chulalongkorn’s cremation, held in Bangkok in 1910,
was a grand state affair. As a great reformer, he was Modern Developments
idealized by his subjects, and even today the people Chulalongkorn promoted many new
of Thailand commemorate his death on ideas; cars appeared in Bangkok at
Chulalongkorn Day (see p54). the beginning of the 20th century.

1910 Chulalongkorn dies. His son

1893 French take French gunboat Vajiravudh (Rama VI) comes to throne
control of Laos;
leads to Franco-
1907 Cambodia ceded
Siamese Crisis
to the French

1890 1895 1900 1905 1910

1893 Paknam Incident – 1905 After years of gradual reform,

1892 New
French gunboats sail up slavery is finally abolished
ministries are the Chao Phraya River
created to 1909 Siamese sovereignty over the Malayan states of Kelantan,
govern Siam Perlis, Terengganu, and Kedah ceded to the British
 72  INTRODUCING THAILAND

Modern Thailand
In 1932 Siam became a constitutional monarchy. Under Prime
Minister Phibun Songkram, the 1930s saw rising nationalism:
the country was renamed Prathet Thai (Thailand) and sided
with Japan in World War II. However, during the Vietnam War,
fear of Communism led Thailand to help the US. A number of
military coups have since hindered democratization; in 2006
the ousting of Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra caused
political division. Shinawatra’s sister, Yingluck, was elected ASEAN in 2008
Prime Minister in 2011 but political stability remains elusive. Association of SE Asian Nations

Democracy Monument
A meeting place during
King Vajiravudh
prodemocracy rallies,
Chulalongkorn’s son
the monument was built
Vajiravudh (1910–25)
in 1939 to mark the
clashed with his
revolution of 1932. To this
father’s senior
day it serves as the nexus
advisors. To build a
of demonstrations.
following of his own
he created the elite
corps, the Wild
Tigers, in 1911.
Commercial buildings by the
Waterfront

Wat Phra Kaeo

Modern Bangkok
With an official population
of around 9.5 million (though
unofficially it could be closer to
15 million), Bangkok is one of
the most frenetic, congested, and
polluted cities in the world. It is
also a colorful city where old
traditions are still important. The
1982 Bangkok Bicentennial and the
celebrations of Bhumibol’s 50th
year as King in 1996 (shown here),
featured splendid royal barges.

1935 Prajadhipok 1938 Phibun

1911 Wild Tigers, 1959 Sarit Thanarat becomes Prime
abdicates, Ananda Songkram becomes
an elite paramilitary Minister in coup
Mahidol becomes king Prime Minister
corps, formed 1946 Phibun resigns; Pridi
1932 Revolution; Siam made a 1939 Phibun Phanomyong forms
constitutional monarchy renames Siam government
1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1917 Siam sends a 1925 Prajadhipok 1940 Thais 1967 Thailand
becomes king invade Laos 1946 Mahidol killed; becomes founder
small force of men Bhumibol made king
to fight on the side 1934–8 Increasing and Cambodia member of the
of the Allies in WWI power struggle between after fall of 1941 Phibun capitulates to Japan; Association of
Phibun Songkram and France to Pridi Phanomyong organizes Southeast Asian
Phibun Songkram Pridi Phanomyong Germany underground resistance Nations (ASEAN)
 THE HISTORY OF THAILAND  73

Traffic Congestion
Modern Bangkok Where to See Modern
has a reputation for
severe traffic jams,
Thailand
but the Skytrain, Apart from palaces and wats,
airport rail link, most 20th-century architecture in
and underground Thailand, particularly in Bangkok,
have eased traffic tends to be very dull and
congestion. functional. However, some of
the many edifices built in the
1980s and 1990s are worth a
look if only for their sheer
King Bhumibol outrageousness (see p123).
Against a backdrop of Modern resort hotels sometimes
unstable politics, the incorporate traditional touches.
revered King Bhumibol
(Rama IX) has
represented virtue and
stability. Through his
authority, the military
coup and bloody
demonstrations of
1992 were ended.

Ayutthaya-style barge
Stylish riverside
apartments

The Robot Building, in

downtown Bangkok, was
designed by Sumet Jumsai
in the mid-1980s.

Tourism
Despite the 2004 tsunami and the
closure of Bangkok’s main airport
in late 2008 by anti-government
protestors, Thailand remains
popular with tourists.

1973–6 Turbulent democratic 2004 December 26, west coast 2008 Thailand returns
government; student demonstrations of Southern Thailand hit by a to civilian rule
tsunami – some 5,300 deaths
1988 Fully democratic 2011 Yingluck Shinawatra
elections 1997 Thai economy elected Prime Minister
collapses
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1976 Massacre 1980s CPT a spent 1992 Massacre of
2006 Bloodless 2014 Government
of students at force; Thailand pro-democracy
military coup is ousted; military
Thammasat enters a period of demonstrators in
deposes Prime assumes control of
University brings rapid economic Bangkok followed by
Minister Thaksin political positions
huge support for growth democratic elections
Shinawatra
the CPT (see p292) King Bhumibol
 BANGKOK

Introducing Bangkok 76–79

Old City 80–97
Chinatown 98–103
Dusit 104–113
Downtown 114–125
Thon Buri 126–133
Farther Afield 134–141
Shopping in Bangkok 142–145
Entertainment in Bangkok 146–147
Bangkok Street Finder 148–159
76  BANGKOK

Introducing Bangkok
Thailand’s capital, straddling the great Chao Phraya River,
12 miles (20 km) upstream from the Gulf of Thailand, is an
exuberant, exhilarating metropolis of eight and a half million
people. Founded by Rama I in 1782, this relatively young city
is known to Thais as Krung Thep (“city of angels”), a shortened
form of a full name in excess of 150 letters. Bangkok may
be a lesson in the dangers of uncontrolled urban expansion,
but it is also one of the world’s most exciting cities. The National Museum
It is highly regarded for its trendy nightclubs and (see pp92–3) contains a
cosmopolitan dining scene, and its markets, wealth of treasures, such

EN
shops, magnificent wats, museums, palaces, as this 7th–8th-century

MS
head of the Buddha.

SA
and parks offer something for everyone.

BO
RO
M
M
A
RA
JC
H
O
N
N
EE

PH RA NN OK

OLD CITY
(see pp80–97)
The Grand Palace THON BURI
and Wat Phra Kaeo (see pp126–33)
complex (see pp84–9)
is Bangkok’s premier
tourist attraction. The
sacred Emerald Buddha, or
Phra Kaeo, is housed in one
of many splendid buildings.
Cha
o Ph
ra ya
OK
T H IP
CHA
PRA

Wat Pho (see pp96–7) is one of the oldest

temples in the capital, dating originally from
the 16th century. It is also a famous center
for traditional medicine and contains the
much respected Institute of Massage.

Wat Arun (see pp130–31), otherwise known as

the Temple of Dawn, is one of Bangkok’s best
known landmarks. Its Khmer-influenced
prangs are encrusted with thousands of
pieces of broken porcelain.
Mosaic-encrusted wall of Phra Mondop, Grand Palace, Bangkok
 INTRODUCING BANGKOK  77

Dusit Park (see pp106–7), with

its leafy walkways, fascinating
museums, Vimanmek Palace,
and neighboring zoo, has
enough attractions to provide
a full day’s sightseeing.

0 meters 1000

0 yards 1000
V
MA
RA

DUSIT
(see pp104–13)
PH
IT
SA
N
U
LO
K

PET
LAN LUANG CH
AB
UR
I
Jim Thompson House
(see pp124–5), a beautifully decorated series
of teak buildings, was once home to the
famed American silk merchant.

RA M A
CHINATOWN I
(see pp98–103)
DOWNTOWN
(see pp114–25)

RA
MA
IV

Chinatown (see pp98–103)

is one of Bangkok’s most hectic, colorful,
and intoxicating districts. Narrow streets
overflow with markets and shops, such
as this religious goods emporium.

Greater Bangkok Area 0 kilometers 20

Pathum 0 miles 15
Thani

Nonthaburi Min Buri

Nakhon
Pathom
BANGKOK

Ratchaburi Samut
Samut Prakan
The Old Farang Quarter (see pp116–17) Sakhon
was the commercial hub for foreigners in Samut Gulf of Thailand
Songkhram
the 19th century. Some colonial buildings,
such as the Portuguese Embassy, survive.
For keys to symbols see back flap
78  BANGKOK

A River View of Bangkok

The two great rivers of the North, the Ping and the Nan,
join at Nakhon Sawan in the Central Plains to form the Chao
Phraya (“river of kings”), Thailand’s most important waterway.
This vital transportation link drains some of the country’s A typical Chao Phraya barge, transporting
most fertile rice-growing land. The stretch shown here is goods along the river
actually a canal, built in the 16th century as a shortcut at
a point where the Chao Phraya took a huge meander
along what is now Khlong Bangkok Noi and Khlong
Bangkok Yai. Along this busy “royal mile” you can
catch glimpses of the Grand Palace, temples, and
colonial buildings, and experience a flavor of old
Bangkok’s colorful riverfront. To Phrapin-
klao Bridge

The Buddhaisawan Chapel in the National Museum

(see pp92–3) is home to the Phra Buddha Sing, one of
the most venerated Buddha images in Thailand after the
Emerald Buddha. Elsewhere in the museum is a fabulous
collection of arts and crafts from every period of Thai history.
Exhibits include Buddha images, weapons, and pottery.

Riverboats on the Chao Phraya

0 meters 200
The Chao Phraya is a major transportation artery, for both
0 yards 200
goods and people. Hefty rice barges, tiny boats laden with fruit
and vegetables, and a variety of ferry services continually ply
the river. No visitor to Bangkok should miss seeing the city
from the water, and jumping on the Chao Phraya Express is
one of the easiest and cheapest ways to do so. The stops are
indicated on the Street Finder (maps 1–2, 5–6). There are also
cross-river ferries from almost every river pier, as well as
countless long-tail boats that operate as buses or can be
specially chartered to explore the city’s khlongs.

Wat Rakhang (see p129) is a little visited

Long-tail boat on the Chao Phraya but rewarding temple containing fine
murals painted in the 1920s.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 INTRODUCING BANGKOK  79

Wat Phra Kaeo (see pp84–7) dusit

contains one of Thailand’s most
sacred Buddha images, the
Emerald Buddha. The temple old city
and palace complex is a superb
collection of buildings with chinatown
lavish decorative details.
thon buri

Sanam Luang, Locator Map

(“field of kings”), the see street Finder map 1
venue for national
ceremonies, is one
of Bangkok’s few
open spaces.
Wat Pho (see pp96–7), the
city’s oldest temple, dates
from the 17th century. It is
famed for its school of
massage, as well as for fine
details such as this painting
of a Chinese soldier.

to Memorial bridge

Wat Arun (see pp130–31)

is covered in pieces of
The Memorial Bridge spans the Chao Phraya broken porcelain. This
River, connecting traditional Thon Buri to Buddha image is outside
the modern Downtown area. the main bot.
 BANGKOK  81

OLD CITY
As the spiritual and historical heart of image, the Emerald Buddha. South of
Bangkok, the Old City is dense with temples here is Wat Pho, one of the city’s oldest
and shrines. Known as Rattanakosin, this was temples, while to the north lies Sanam
the center of the new capital Rama I founded Luang (“field of kings”), the site of royal
in 1782 (see pp68–9). Remnants of a defensive ceremonies. Alongside Sanam Luang,
wall can be seen between the Golden Mount the National Museum contains Southeast
and Wat Rachanadda. Some of Thailand’s Asia’s most impressive artifacts. Two
finest Rattanakosin period architecture is Buddhist universities in temples nearby:
within the Old City. The foremost example is Wat Mahathat and Wat Bowonniwet. The
the Grand Palace, within which is Wat Phra latter is famed for its murals combining
Kaeo, home of the country’s most venerated Western and traditional Thai styles.

Sights at a Glance
Wats q Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing Notable Roads and Districts
1 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo w Wat Rachabophit 9 Monk’s Bowl Village
pp84–9 e Wat Rachapradit 0 Bamrung Muang Road
2 Wat Mahathat r Wat Pho pp96–7
5 Wat Bowonniwet Museums and Galleries Monuments
7 Wat Rachanadda 6 Democracy Monument
3 National Museum pp92–3
8 Wat Saket and the Golden
4 National Gallery
Mount
t Museum of Siam

IT
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See also Street Finder
pp148–59

Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho For keys to symbols see back flap
82  BANGKOK

Street-by-Street: Around
Sanam Luang THON
DUSIT

 BURI

Sanam Luang (“field of kings” or “royal ground”) is one of the OLD CITY

few sizable open spaces in Bangkok. It is the traditional site

CHINATOWN
for royal cremations, the annual kite flying festival, and the
Royal Plowing Ceremony (see p52). Spiritually speaking, this
area is one of the luckiest in the city, with the Grand Palace, Locator Map
the Lak Muang (City Pillar) shrine, and the Amulet Market See Street Finder map 1
bordering Sanam Luang. Neighboring streets overflow with
salesmen hawking lotions, potions, and amulets for luck, love,
or protection from evil spirits. Astrologers gather to chart your
stars or read your palm. Notable sights include Wat Mahathat,
Thailand’s most revered center of Buddhist studies, and the
Phra Chan Pier
National Museum, which charts Thailand’s fascinating history.

2 Wat Mahathat
Meditation classes are held at the T
Buddhist university within this A
H
temple’s compound. Dating from T
A
H
the 18th century, the wat is more
TR

A
notable for its bustling atmosphere M
O
K

than its buildings

SI
LL
N

A
A

PA

Tha Chang Chao-

P

K
H

Phraya Express Pier

O
R

R
A

N
L
A
N

Entrance to
Grand Palace
and Wat
Phra Kaeo
Western edge of
Silpakorn University of Fine Arts Sanam Luang To Lak Muang
The entrance to Thailand’s most famous art school can (City Pillar)
be found on Na Phra Lan Road. The university regularly
puts on excellent art shows in its exhibition hall. See the Key
signs outside the entrance for details and opening times.
Suggested route

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 OLD CITY  83

Amulets
The Thais are a highly superstitious people – those who do not
wear some form of protective or lucky amulet are firmly in a minority.
Amulets come in myriad forms and are sold in specialty markets,
often near spiritually auspicious sites. Although many are religious
in nature – such as tiny Buddha images and copies of sacred
statues – others are designed for more practical purposes, such
as model phalluses to ensure sexual potency. Amulets are such a
big business that there are even magazines dedicated to them.

A selection of charms sold at stalls around Sanam Luang

Thammasat University,
notable for its law and
political science faculties,
was the scene of student
riots in the 1970s (see p73).

3 . National Museum
PR

A magnificent range of arts

A

and craftsfrom every period

To Phra
CH

of Thai history are displayed

Pin-Klao Bridge in this huge museum.
AN

0 meters 500

The Gallery 0 yards 500

AT
TH of Thai History at
RA the National Museum
PH
NA provides a good
introduction to the country.

Fortune Teller at Sanam Luang

Many Thais set great store by the
predictions of fortune tellers and
often visit those who gather on
Sanam Luang near Wat Phra Kaeo.

. Kite Flying at Sanam Luang

King Chulalongkorn (1868–1910) was an avid kite flyer and
permitted Sanam Luang to be used for the sport. Fiercely
contested kite fights can often be witnessed here between
February and April.
84  BANGKOK

1Grand Palace and

Wat Phra Kaeo

Construction of this remarkable site began in 1782, to mark the
founding of the new capital and provide a resting place for the
sacred Emerald Buddha (Phra Kaeo) and a residence for the
king. Surrounded by walls stretching for 2,080 yards (1,900 m),
the complex was once a self-sufficient city within a city.
The royal family now lives in Dusit, but Wat Phra Kaeo is still
Thailand’s holiest temple – visitors must cover their knees and
heels before entering. Wat Phra Kaeo’s skyline, as seen from
Sanam Luang

. Bot of the Emerald Buddha

Devotees make offerings to the
Emerald Buddha at the entrance
to the bot, the most important
building in the wat.

. Ramakien Gallery
Extending clockwise all the
way around the cloisters are
178 panels depicting the
complete story of the Ramakien.

1925 Rama VII chooses to live

1783 Work begins on 1855 New buildings in the less formal Chitrlada
Wat Phra Kaeo, Dusit epitomize fusion of Eastern Palace at Dusit. Grand Palace
Throne Hall, and Phra and Western styles reserved for special occasions
Maha Monthien

1750 1800 1850 1900 1950

1880 Chulalongkorn, 1932 Chakri Dynasty’s

1809 Rama II 1840s Women’s the last king to make 150th year celebrated
1782 Official introduces quarter laid major additions, at palace
founding of Chinese out as a city involves 26 half-
new capital details within a city brothers in renovation 1982 Renovation of
of Wat Phra Kaeo the complex
 G R A N D PA L A C E A N D WAT P H R A K A E O  85

Decorative Gilt
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Figures
Encircling the
Practical Information
exterior of the bot
Na Phra Lan Rd. Map 1 C5. Tel 0-
are 112 garudas
2623-5500. Open 8:30am–3:30pm
(mythical beasts
daily. Closed ceremonies. &
that are half-man,
includes Vimanmek Mansion (see
half-bird). They are
pp108–9) and Ananta Samakhom
shown holding
Throne Room (see p109). ^ in
nagas (serpents)
bot. = ∑ palaces.thai.net
and are typical of
the wat’s dazzling Transport
decorative details. @ 1, 3, 25, 33, 39, 53.
4 Chang, Tien.

Apsonsi
A mythical creature
(half-woman, half-lion),
Apsonsi is one of the
beautiful gilded figures
on the upper terrace
of Wat Phra Kaeo.

Wat Phra Kaeo

Wat Phra Kaeo (shown here)
is a sub complex within the
greater Grand Palace complex.
The temple is Thailand’s holiest
shrine, but unlike other Thai
wats, has no resident monks.

KEY
Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo 1 Eight prangs border the east side
of the wat.
3
1 Entrance
4 2 Chapel of the Gandharara
2 Wat Phra Kaeo Buddha
5 1 complex
3 Dusit Throne Hall 3 Emerald Buddha

4 Aphonphimok 4 Phra Mondop (library)

6
7 Pavilion 5 The Phra Si Rattana Chedi
5 Chakri Throne Hall contains a piece of the Buddha’s
2
6 Inner Palace breastbone.
8
9 7 Phra Maha
10 6 The Royal Pantheon
Monthien Buildings
11
8 Siwalai Gardens 7 Upper Terrace

9 Rama IV Chapel 8 The Ho Phra Monthien

Key 10 Boromphiman Tham is the auxiliary library.
Mansion 9 Wihan Yot
Wat Phra Kaeo complex Lawns
11 Audience Chamber
Buildings 0 Ho Phra Nak (royal mausoleum)
86  BANGKOK

Exploring Wat Phra Kaeo the Buddha’s victory over Mara

(the god of death), and scenes
When Rama I established the new capital of Bangkok in 1782 from the previous lives of the
his ambition was to construct a royal temple along the lines Buddha – the jatakas. Around
of the grand chapels of previous capital cities. Symbolizing the the temple are 12 open-sided
salas (small pavilions) built as
simultaneous founding of the Chakri dynasty, this temple was contemplative shelters.
to surpass its larger Sukhothai and Ayutthaya predecessors Southeast of the bot is the
in the splendor of its design and decoration. The result of his 19th-century Chapel of the
vision was Wat Phra Kaeo, or Temple of the Emerald Buddha Gandharara Buddha. The
(officially known as Wat Phra Si Rattana Sasadaram), so called bronze image of the Buddha
because the bot houses the Emerald Buddha image, brought calling the rains housed here
is used in the Royal Plowing
here from Wat Arun (see pp130–31) in 1785. Ceremony in May (see p50).
The bell in the nearby belfry is
rung only on special occasions
such as New Year’s Day.

The Upper Terrace

The Emerald Buddha crowning the ornate gilded altar inside the bot
The Bot and Peripheral
Buildings
The most sacred building within
the palace complex, the bot of
Wat Phra Kaeo was erected to
house what is still the most
revered image of the Buddha in
Thailand: the Emerald Buddha.
The exterior doors and
windows of the bot are inlaid
with delicate mother-of-pearl
designs. Along the marble base
supporting the structure runs a
series of gilt bronze garudas
(half bird, half human). The
staircase of the main entrance
is guarded by Cambodian-style
stone lions, or singhas. Inside,
the surprisingly small image of
the Emerald Buddha sits in a
glass case high above a golden
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
altar. Carved from a single piece
of jade (not emerald), it is 26 in
(66 cm) tall and has a lap span
of 19 in (48 cm). The Buddha
has been attributed to the late
Lanna School of the 15th century.
It is dressed in one of three
costumes: a crown and jewelry
for the summer season; a
golden shawl in winter; and a
gilded monastic robe and
headdress in the rainy season.
The reigning monarch or a
prince appointed by him
presides over each changing of
the Buddha’s attire in a deeply
symbolic ceremony. Inside the
bot are murals from the reign
of Rama III (1824–51). They
depict the classic subjects of
Thai mural painting, namely the
Traiphum (Buddhist cosmology),
Of the four structures on this
elevated terrace, the Phra Si
Rattana Chedi, at the western
end, is the most striking. It was
built by King Mongkut
(Rama IV) to enshrine a piece
of the Buddha’s breastbone.
The golden tiles decorating the
exterior were later added by
King Chulalongkorn (Rama V).
The adjacent Phra Mondop,
used as a library, was built by
Rama I as a hall to house
Buddhist scriptures. Although
the Library is closed to the
public, the exterior is splendid
in itself. The Javanese Buddha
images on the four outer
corners are copies of early
9th-century originals, which
are now in the museum near
the entrance to the palace
complex. Outside the building
are memorials to all the kings
of the present Chakri dynasty,
and bronze elephant statues
The ornate entrance to the Phra Mondop
(used as a library) at Wat Phra Kaew

Mural depicting a scene from the Ramakien in the Ramakien Gallery
representing the royal white
elephants (see p110) from the
first five reigns of the dynasty
(see pp68–9).
To the north of the
mondop is a model of
Angkor Wat in northwest
Cambodia (see pp268–9).
The model was
commissioned by
Rama IV to show his
people the scale and Ramakien figure
gracious splendor of outside chedi
12th-century Khmer
architecture – Cambodia
during his reign being under
Thai rule.
The Royal Pantheon
houses life-size statues of the
Chakri kings. Rama IV had
intended the hall to hold the
Emerald Buddha, but decided
that it was too small. The
pantheon is open to the
public only on Chakri Day
(see p52).
The Northern Terrace
Ho Phra Nak was originally
constructed by Rama I in the
late 18th century to enshrine
the Nak (literally, alloy of gold,
silver, and copper) Buddha
image that had been rescued
from Ayutthaya. Rama III,
however, demolished the
original hall, preferring to build
the present brick and mortar
structure to house the ashes
of minor members of the
G R A N D PA L A C E A N D WAT P H R A K A E O  87
The Prangs, Yakshas,
and Ramakien Gallery
Surrounding the temple
complex is the cloisterlike
Ramakien Gallery, decorated
with lavishly painted and
meticulously restored murals.
This is Thailand’s most extensive
depiction of the ancient legend
of the Ramakien (see pp44–5).
The 178 panels were originally
painted in the late 18th century,
but damage from humidity
means that frequent renovation
is necessary. The murals are
divided by marble pillars
inscribed with verses relating
the story, which begins opposite
Wihan Yot and proceeds in a
clockwise direction.
Guarding each gateway to
the gallery is a pair of yakshas
royal family. The Nak (demons). Placed here during
Buddha was moved into the reign of Rama II, they are
the neighboring Wihan Yot, said to protect the Emerald
which is shaped like a Buddha from evil spirits. Each
Greek cross and one represents a different
decorated with character from the Ramakien
Chinese porcelain. myth: the green one, for
Also on the example, symbolizes Tosakan,
Northern Terrace is or the demon king.
the Ho Phra Monthien The eight different-colored
Tham, or Auxiliary prangs on the edge of the
Library, built by the temple complex are intricately
brother of Rama I. decorated with Chinese
The door panels, inlaid porcelain. They represent the
with mother-of-pearl, were eight elements of the Buddhist
salvaged from Ayutthaya’s Wat religion, including the Buddha,
Borom Buddharam. Inside, the Dharma (law), the sangha
Buddhist scriptures are stored (monkhood), and the bhiksunis
in fine cabinets. (female Buddhists).
The Legend of the Emerald Buddha
In 1434 lightning struck the chedi of Wat Phra Kaeo in Chiang Rai in
Northern Thailand (see pp254–5), revealing a simple stucco image.
The abbot of the temple kept it in his residence until the flaking plaster
exposed a jadeite image beneath. Upon learning of the discovery,
the king of Chiang Mai sent an army of elephants to
bring the image to him. The elephant bearing the
Emerald Buddha, however, refused to take the road
to Chiang Mai, and, treating this as an auspicious
sign, the entourage re-routed to Lampang. The
image was moved several more times over the
next century, then was taken to Haw Pha
Kaew in Laos (see pp298–9) in 1552. It was
not until General Chakri (later Rama I)
captured Vientiane in 1778 that the
Emerald Buddha was returned to
Thailand. It was kept in Wat Arun
(see pp130–31) for 15 years, before a
grand river procession brought it to its The small Emerald Buddha
current resting place on March 5, 1785. inside the bot
88  BANGKOK

Exploring the Grand Palace domed roof, but the royal court
decided that a Thai-style roof
Built at the same time as Wat Phra Kaeo, the Grand Palace was would be more appropriate,
the king’s official residence from 1782 to 1946, although King in keeping with the area.
Chulalongkorn (Rama V) was the last monarch to live here. Housed on the top floor of
the Central Hall are the ashes
Today, the royal family resides at Chitrlada Palace (see p110).
of royal monarchs, and the first
Throughout the palace’s history, many structures have been floor – the only floor open to
altered. Within the complex there are a few functioning the public – acts as the main
government buildings, such as the Ministry of Finance, but audience hall where the King
most others are unused. Important ceremonies are still held receives ambassadors and
in the Dusit Throne Hall and the Amarin Winichai Hall. entertains foreign monarchs;
artifacts from the King’s armory
are on display here.
on a palanquin to the pavilion’s Behind the Niello Throne in
Dusit Throne Hall shoulder-high first step. Inside the Chakri Throne Room is the
This cross-shaped throne hall the building he would change emblem of the Chakri dynasty:
was originally built in 1784 as into the appropriate apparel for a discus and trident. The
a reproduction of one of the occasion. The pavilion’s paintings in the room depict
Ayutthaya’s grandest buildings, simple structure, diplomatic missions, including
Sanphet Maha Prasat (see complemented by its Queen Victoria
pp182–3). Five years later the elaborate decoration, welcoming Rama IV’s
hall was struck by lightning makes it a building ambassador in
and rebuilt on a smaller scale. of perfect London. The East
Crowned with a sumptuously proportions: Wing is used as a
decorated tiered spire, it is indeed, it is reception room
one of the finest examples of considered a glory of for royal guests.
early Rattanakosin architecture Thai architecture. Elephant statue by Chakri The long hall
(see p39). Inside is a masterpiece It inspired Rama V Throne Hall connecting the
of Thai art: the original Rama I so much so that he had Central Hall with
teak throne, inlaid with mother- a replica built at Bang Pa-in this wing is lined with portraits
of-pearl. In the south wing is a (see p185). of the Chakri dynasty. In the
window in the form of a throne. West Wing is the queen’s
The hall is used for the annual personal reception room.
Coronation Day celebrations Chakri Throne Hall Portraits of the principal queens
(see p52). Also known as the Grand Palace of Rama IV, Rama V, and Rama
Throne Hall, Chakri Maha Prasat VII decorate the hall between
was built in Neo-Classical style the Central Hall and this wing.
Aphonphimok by the British architect John
Pavilion Chinitz. Rama V commissioned
King Mongkut (Rama IV) the building in 1882 to mark Phra Maha Monthien
built this small wooden the centenary of the Chakri Buildings
structure as a royal dynasty, a fact reflected in the This cluster of connected
changing room for when theme of the sumptuous buildings, located to the east
he was giving audiences decoration. The structure was of the Chakri Throne Hall, is
at the Dusit Throne originally intended to have a the “Grand Residence” of the
Hall. The king palace complex.
would be carried The focal point of the
18th-century Amarin Winichai
Hall, the northernmost building
of the group, is Rama I’s boat-
shaped Busabok Mala Throne.
When an audience was present,
two curtains hid the throne as
the king ascended, and, with an
elaborate fanfare, the curtains
were drawn back to reveal the
king wearing a loose, golden
gown and seeming to float on
the prowlike part of the throne.
In the 19th century two British
ambassadors were received
in such manner here; John
Exterior of the Dusit Throne Hall, with its elegant multitiered spire Crawfurd by Rama II and Sir
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

Lavish decor of the connecting hall of the Chakri Throne Hall’s West Wing
John Bowring by Rama IV.
The hall is now used for some
state ceremonies.
Connected to the hall by a
gateway through which only
the king, queen, and royal
children may walk is the
Phaisan Thaksin Hall. This was
used by Rama I as a private hall
when dining with family, friends,
and members of the royal court.
In 1809 a Borom Rachaphisek
Ceremony was performed in
this hall to mark the coronation
of the new king, Rama II. On the
high altar is the Phra Siam
Thewathirat, a highly venerated
guardian figure, placed here
by Rama IV.
The third building is the
Chakraphat Phiman Hall.
It served as a residence for
the first three Chakri kings. It is
still the custom for a newly
crowned king to spend a night
here as part of his coronation.
Inner Palace
Behind a gateway to the left
of the Chakri Throne Hall is the
entrance to the Inner Palace,
which is closed to the public.
Until the time of Rama VII, the
palace was inhabited solely by
women of the royal family:
principal wives, minor wives,
and daughters. Apart from sons,
who had to leave the palace on
reaching puberty, the king was
the only male allowed to live
within its walls. The palace
functioned as a small city, with
G R A N D PA L A C E A N D WAT P H R A K A E O
its own government and laws,
complete with prison cells.
Under the strict guidance
of a formidable “Directress of
the Inside,” a small army of
uniformed officers policed
the area.
Rama III renovated the
overcrowded and precarious
wooden structures, and, in the
late 19th century, Rama V built
small, fantastical Victorian style
palaces here for his favorite
consorts. Because his successor,
Rama VI, had only one wife,
the complex was left virtually
empty, and it eventually fell
into disrepair.
One of the palace buildings
that continues to function is the
finishing school for the
daughters of high-society Thai
families. The girls are taught
flower weaving, royal cuisine,
and social etiquette.
Mosaic-decorated Phra Buddha Ratana Sathan in the Siwalai Gardens
 89
Siwalai Gardens
These beautiful gardens, which
are sadly now closed to the
public, lie east of the Inner
Palace and contain the Phra
Buddha Ratana Sathan, a
personal chapel built by Rama
IV. The pavilion is covered in
gray marble and decorated
with white and blue glass
mosaics. The marble bai sema
(boundary stones) are inlaid
with the insignia of Rama V, who
placed the stones here, Rama II,
who had the gardens laid out,
and Rama IV.
The Neo-Classical
Boromphiman Mansion in the
gardens was built by Rama V
as a residence for the Crown
Prince (later King Rama VI).
The building served as a
temporary residence for several
kings: Rama VII, Rama VIII, and
Rama IX (King Bhumibol). Today
it is used as a guest house for
visiting dignitaries.
Audience Chamber
Visible from outside the palace
walls, this chamber – Phra
Thinang Sutthaisawan
Prasat – is located between
Thewaphithak and Sakchaisit
gates. It was built by Rama I
as a place to grant an audience
during royal ceremonies and
to watch the training of his
elephants. Rama III strengthened
the wooden structure with
brick, and decorative features
were added later. These include
the crowning spire and
ornamental cast-iron motifs.
90  BANGKOK
Five, near the monks’ quarters).
There is also a traditional herbal
medicine market, and, on
weekends, numerous stalls
selling a wide range of goods.
3 National Museum

See pp92–3.
4 National Gallery

4 Chao Fa Rd. Map 2 D4. Tel 0-2281-
Entrance to the Buddhist University at 2224. @ AC: 506. 4 Phra Athit.
Wat Mahathat Open 9am–4pm Wed–Sun.
Closed public hols. & ^
2 Wat Mahathat
 Thailand’s main art gallery,
housed in the old mint
3 Maharaj Rd. Map 1 C4. Tel 0-2221- building, was established
5999. @ AC: 203, 506. 4 Chang in 1977. It concentrates
Maharaj. Open daily. on modern Thai and
international art.
This is a large, busy temple Initially the gallery
complex, interesting more for suffered from lack of
its atmosphere than for its funds, but in 1989
architecture. Dating from the further wings were
1700s, the wihan and bot were added. The high-
both rebuilt between 1844 and ceilinged, spacious
1851. The mondop, which gives halls now attract
the temple its name – “temple exhibitions from all over
of the great relic” – has a Asia. Temporary shows
cruciform roof, a feature rarely of prominent Asian Modern sculpture at the physician healing a
found in Bangkok. artists are often better National Gallery
The wat is the national center than many of the
for the Mahanikai monastic sect, permanent exhibits. Modern
and it holds one of Bangkok’s art can also be found at the
two Buddhist universities (medi- Bangkok Art and Culture Center
tation classes are offered here at (see p122). Check the Bangkok Post fact that Khrua In Khong never
7am, 1pm, and 6pm in Section for other exhibitions in the city.
Mid-19th-century, Western-style mural at Wat Bowonniwet
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
5 Wat Bowonniwet

248 Phra Sumen Rd. Map 2 D4.
Tel 0-2281-5052. @ 12, 15, 56; AC:
511 (Express). Open 8am–5pm daily.
Hidden in quiet, tree-filled
grounds, this mid-19th-century
temple was constructed by
Rama III. The style bears his
trademark Chinese influence.
A central gilded chedi is flanked
by two symmetrical chapels,
the most interesting of which
is next to Phra Sumen Road.
The interior murals are
attributed to monk-painter
Khrua In Khong, who is famous
for the introduction of Western
perspective into Thai temple
murals. As court painter to King
Mongkut (Rama IV) he was
exposed to Western
ideas and adapted
these to a Thai
setting. The result
was a series of
murals that on
first glance look
wholly Western,
but that portray
the same Buddhist
allegories found in
traditional Thai murals.
For instance, a
blind man can be
interpreted as the
illuminating power of
Buddhism. The images are all
the more remarkable for the
traveled to the West. The
main Buddha image, Phra
Buddha Chinasara, is one of
the best examples from the
Sukhothai period.
King Mongkut served as
abbot here during his 27 years
in the monkhood and founded
the strict Tammayut sect of
Buddhism, for which the temple
is now the headquarters. Since
Mongkut, many Thai kings have
served their monkhoods at the
wat, including the current
monarch, King Bhumibol
(Rama IX). The temple also
houses Thailand’s second
Buddhist university. Across the
road from the temple is a
Buddhist bookstore that sells
English-language publications.

6 Democracy
Monument

Ratchadamnoen Klang. Map 2 E4.
@ AC: 503, 509, 511. Open daily.
A focal point during pro-
democracy demonstrations,
this monument (built 1939)
commemorates the revolution
of 1932 (see p72). Each feature
symbolizes the date of the
establishment of Thailand’s
constitutional monarchy, on
June 24, 1932.
The four wing towers are
each 79 ft (24 m) high. The 75
cannons indicate the year
2475 of the Buddhist Era (1932),
and the pedestal, containing a
copy of the constitution, is
10 ft (3 m) high, referring to
the third month of the Thai
calendar (June).
The structure was designed
by Silpa Bhirasi, an Italian
sculptor who took a Thai name
and citizenship.
Central edifice of Democracy
Monument (1939)
7 Wat Rachanadda

Maha Chai Rd. Map 2 E5.
@ 2, 44, 59; AC: 79, 503, 511.
Open 9am–4pm daily.
The most interesting feature
at Wat Rachanadda (also often
spelled Ratchanaddaram) is the
metal monastery. Originally
conceived as a chedi to
complement the temple, it
evolved into an elaborate
One of hundreds of meditation cells at Wat Rachanadda
meditation chamber modeled
on a 3rd-century BC Sri Lankan
temple (the original is now
ruined). Passages dissect each
level, running north to south
and east to west. The meditation
cells are at each intersection.
In the temple’s courtyard is
Bangkok’s best amulet market.
Tourists may face disapproval if
they attempt to take talismans
home as souvenirs. Across the
road, behind the old city walls, is
the Doves’ Village, where singing
doves are sold for competitions.
8 Wat Saket and
the Golden Mount

Chakkaphatdi Phong Rd. Map 2 F5.
@ 8, 15, 37, 47, 49; AC: 38, 543.
Open 7:30am–5:30pm daily. &
_ Golden Mount Fair (Nov).
Built by Rama I in the late
18th century, Wat Saket is one
of the oldest temples in Bangkok.
Visitors come to climb the
artificial hill topped with a golden
tower within the grounds. Rama
III built the first Golden Mount,
but the soft soil led to its collapse.
King Chulalongkorn (Rama V)
provided the necessary
technology to create the 250-ft
(76-m) high representation of the
mythical Mount Meru seen
today. It is believed to house
relics of the Buddha presented
to Rama V by the Viceroy of
India. A circular staircase lined
OLD CITY  91
with strange monuments and
tombs leads to the top, where
there is a small sanctuary.
The wonderful panoramic view
from the gallery takes in the
Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and Wat
Arun. The octagonal building
opposite, Mahakan Fort, is one
of 14 original watchtowers of
the city walls.
Until the 1960s the Golden
Mount was one of the highest
points in Bangkok. Today, it still
forms a prominent landmark,
although it is dwarfed by
skyscrapers (see p123).
During the 19th century the
grounds of Wat Saket served a
macabre function as a
crematorium. The bodies of the
poor were sometimes left for
vultures and dogs. By contrast,
a fair with dancing and a candle
procession is now held on the
grounds in November.
The Golden Mount, a distinctive
Bangkok landmark
92  BANGKOK

3 National Museum

The National Museum has one of the largest and most
comprehensive collections in Southeast Asia and provides
an excellent introduction to the arts, crafts, and history of
Thailand. Two of the museum buildings, the 18th-century
Wang Na Palace and Buddhaisawan Chapel, are works of art
in themselves. The chapel contains the venerated Phra
Buddha Sihing image, and an eclectic selection of artifacts
from ancient weaponry to shadow puppets. The two wings
of the museum are devoted mainly to art and sculpture.
Other attractions include galleries of history and prehistory
and the Royal Funeral Chariots Gallery. The labeling of
the collection is not always helpful, so taking one of the Doors of Throne Hall
frequent, free guided tours is highly recommended. These beautifully decorated black
and gold lacquered doors to the
Wang Na Palace date from the
Phra Buddha Sihing 19th century and show a strong
The history of this image, one Chinese influence.
of Thailand’s holiest after the
Emerald Buddha, is shrouded in
legend. It probably dates from
the 13th century and was King Rama IV
brought here from Chiang Pavilion
Mai by Rama I in 1787.
Red Pavilion

The Gallery of Thai

History houses
the 13th-century
Ramkamhaeng Stone.
This is thought to be
inscribed with the earliest
extant example of the Ticket
Thai script. office

King Vajiravudh Pavilion

Pavilion of the Heir
to the Throne

. Royal Funeral
Chariots Gallery
Several lavishly
decorated, gilded teak
chariots used in royal
. Buddhaisawan Chapel funeral processions can
Built in 1787, this beautiful building is be seen in this gallery,
decorated with some of the best Rattanakosin including Racharot Noi,
period murals in Thailand. built in 1795.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 OLD CITY  93

. Dvaravati Wheel of Law VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This 8th-century stone wheel
and deer symbolizes the Practical Information
Buddha’s first sermon in a 1 Na Phra That Rd.
deer park in Sarnath, India. Map 1 C4.
Tel 0-2224-1333.
Open 9am–4pm Wed–Sun.
Closed public hols. & ^ 8
=0

Transport
@ 15, 19, 32, 39, 53, 59, 70; AC:
506, 507, 508. 4 Phra Athit.

Lop Buri Stone Lion

Lions were believed to
be the protectors
of Buddhist teachings.
This 12th–13th-century
sculpture once
stood guard at a
First Floor temple doorway.

First Floor

. Sukhothai Buddha
Image
This graceful
14th-century bronze
image is finished in red
lacquer and gold.

Ayutthayan Head of
the Buddha
The skill of Ayutthaya-period
bronze casting is evident in
this immense but delicate
15th–16th-century image,
which stands 60 inches
(150 cm) high.

Key to Floor Plan

Wang Na Palace Gallery of Thai history

Gallery Guide
The collection is displayed in several
buildings set around the central Wang
Na Palace. Art exhibits are arranged
chronologically in the two wings (both
of which have upper and lower levels),
starting from the left (south) wing.
The ticket office, near the entrance on
Na Phra That Road, sells guidebooks.
Buddhaisawan Chapel
Royal Funeral Chariots Gallery
Throne Hall
Miscellaneous arts and crafts
Khmer, Lop Buri, and Hindu art
Mansion of King Pin Klao
Dvaravati, Srivijayan and Lop Buri art,
Gallery of Ban Chiang and Javanese
Sculpture
Lanna, Sukhothai, Ayutthayan, and
Rattanakosin art
94  BANGKOK

The murals in the immense

Monk’s bowl being heated to blacken and
finish the surface
9 Monk’s Bowl
Village (Ban Bat)

Bamrung Muang Rd, Soi Ban Bat.
Map 2 F5. @ AC: 508.
Monks’ bowls were first used
2,500 years ago and are still
widely used today in Buddhist
countries for early morning
alms-gathering (see p133). Such
bowls have been made at Monk’s
Bowl Village in Bangkok since
the late 18th century. The village
once stretched as far as Wat
Saket (see p91), but modern
developments have reduced the
village to just three homes and
a cluster of small workshops.
This area may be hard to find
amid the maze of sois, but the
bowls are sold at Wat Suthat.
The process of bowl making
is time consuming and requires
eight pieces of metal,
representing the eight spokes
of the wheel of Dharma. The first
strip is beaten into a circular
form to make the rim. Three
pieces are then beaten to create
a cross-shaped skeleton. Four
triangular pieces complete the
sides. After being welded in a kiln,
the bowl is shaped, filed smooth,
and fired again to give an enamel-
like surface. About 20 bowls are
produced daily in the village.
At the center of the maze of
alleyways next to the small
village hall is an unusual and
intriguing shrine, constructed
from old Chinese cylinder
bellows, that is dedicated to the
“Holy Teacher and Ancestor.”
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
0 Bamrung Muang
Road

Map 2 F5. @ AC: 508.
Bamrung Muang, like Charoen
Krung (see pp118–19), was an
elephant trail until the 20th
century, when it became one
of Thailand’s first paved roads.
The stretch between Maha Chai
Road and the Giant Swing
provides an enlightening peek
into the thriving business
behind the Buddhist practice of
merit-making. Along here the
road is lined with shops selling
religious paraphernalia: monks’
robes, votive candles, and
Buddha images of all shapes
and sizes, many rather
incongruously packaged in
cellophane. Monks shop here
for temple essentials; other
people buy offerings and
shrines for the home. Although
the religious objects look
enticing to tourists, they are not
intended as souvenirs: images
of the Buddha cannot be taken
out of the country without an
export license (see p459).
q Wat Suthat and
the Giant Swing

Bamrung Muang Rd. Map 2 E5.
@ 10, 12, 19, 35, 42, 56, 96.
Open 8:30am– 4pm daily
(wihan Sat & Sun only).
There are several
superlatives for Wat
Suthat, a temple that
was begun by Rama I
in 1807 and completed
by Rama III. Its wihan is
the largest in Bangkok.
The art and architecture
beautifully exemplify
Rattanakosin style
(see p39). Its central
Buddha, at 26 ft (8 m)
high, is one of the
largest surviving
Sukhothai bronzes.
This image was moved
from Wat Mahathat in
Sukhothai (see pp62–3)
to Bangkok by Rama I.
wihan are some of the most
celebrated in Thailand.
Amazingly intricate, they
depict the Traiphum (Buddhist
cosmology) and were restored
in the 1980s. The teak doors to
the wihan are carved in five
delicate layers and stand 18 ft
(5.5 m) high. (One made by
Rama II is now in the National
Museum.) The cloister around
the outside of the wihan is lined
with 156 golden Buddha images.
The square in front of Wat
Suthat used to feature the Giant
Swing, the remains of a swing
used for a Brahmin ceremony.
After standing for 224 years,
this was moved in 2007 to
Devasathan Brahmin temple
and replaced by a new swing
made from six 100-year-old
teak trees.
w Wat Rachabophit

Fuang Nakhon Rd. Map 2 D5. Tel
0-2222-3930. @ 2, 60; AC: 501, 502,
512. 4 Tien. Open 8am–5pm daily.
The circular form of Wat
Rachabophit is a successful
architectural blend of East and
West. Construction of the temple
began under King Chulalongkorn
(Rama V) in 1869 and continued
for over 20 years. The whole
complex is splendidly decorated
with porcelain tiles, which were
View through the immense portal of the wihan at
Wat Suthat
 OLD CITY  95

made in China. The focal point

is the central, Sri Lankan-style,
gilded chedi, whose full height
from the terrace is 140 ft (43 m).
Inside the wat are four Buddha
images, each facing one of the
cardinal points. Leading off from
the circular gallery are the bot
to the north, the wihan to the
south, and two lesser wihans to
the east and west: an unusual
layout for a Thai wat.
East-West flourishes permeate
the complex. The 10 door panels Rows of tiny carved figures on eaves of the bot at Wat Rachapradit
and 28 window panels of the
bot are decorated with mother- Ministry of Foreign Affairs), next to Khlong Lot, is a small
of-pearl inlay that illustrates this charming, peaceful temple gilded boar, a shrine to
the insignia of five royal orders. is rarely visited by tourists. Queen Saowapha Phongsi
The moldings over the door It was built in the mid-19th (King Chulalongkorn’s consort),
depict King Chulalongkorn’s seal. century by King Mongkut who was born in the year of
The carved, painted guards on (Rama IV) and his East-meets- the pig.
the doors are distinctively farang West taste in architecture is
(European), and the interior is apparent in the choice of
decorated in an incongruous building materials. The main r Wat Pho
Italian Renaissance style. wihan, for instance, is covered
Accessible through the in forbidding gray marble.

temple grounds (parallel to The interior murals were See pp96–7.
Khlong Lot) is a fascinating painted in the late 19th
royal cemetery rarely century and depict the
explored by visitors. The
monuments to members
festivals of the Thai lunar
calendar. Among other
t Museum of Siam
of King Chulalongkorn’s scenes are some 
family are an eccentric extravagant preparations
Sanam Chai Rd. Map 5 C1. Tel 0-2225-
mix of Khmer, Thai, and for the Giant Swing
2777. @ 12, 47; AC: 3, 82. 4 Thien.
European styles. ceremony, people
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun & public
celebrating the annual holidays. Closed Songkran Holiday,
Loy Krathong water New Year’s Eve, New Year’s Day.
e Wat festival, and an image of - & ∑ museumsiam.org
Rachapradit King Mongkut observing
an eclipse of the moon The Museum of Siam is housed
 (see p69). Striking carvings in the former Ministry of
adorn the doors, eaves, Commerce – a handsome
Saran Rom Rd. Map 2 D5.
and gables of the temple. Italianate building that was
Tel 0-2223-8215. @ AC: 501,
Farang, Wat Other notable edifices designed by Mario Tamagno.
502, 512. 4 Tien.
Open 8am–6pm daily. Rachabophit in the grounds of the The project was finished in
wat include graceful 1922 and was converted into
Located in the northeast pavilions, Khmer- its present incarnation in 2007.
corner of the former Saranrom style prangs, and a gray marble A Milanese architect, Tamagno
Palace gardens (now the chedi. Near to Wat Rachapradit, was also the designer of many
other important Bangkok
landmarks, including the
The Swing in Action Ananta Samakhom Throne
Sao Ching Cha, the “Giant Swing” at Wat Hall (see p111).
Suthat, was built in 1784 by Rama I. The Museum of Siam is
During ceremonies – Brahmin in spread over three floors and
origin – teams of four would swing features excellent permanent
in 180-degree arcs up to 82 ft (25 m) interactive exhibits that explore
high. One participant would try to bite what it means to be Thai
off a sack of gold hung from tall poles. through ancient and
The event, linked to the god Shiva contemporary history.
swinging in the heavens, caused many Buddhism, village life, and
deaths and was abolished in 1935.
politics and communication
Young Brahmins performing on Sao Ching Cha are some of the themes that
are examined.
96  BANGKOK

r Wat Pho

Officially known as Wat Phra Chetuphon, Wat Pho is
not only Bangkok’s oldest and largest temple but
also Thailand’s foremost center for public education.
Unlike the Grand Palace (see pp84–9), it has a lively
and lived-in dilapidated grandeur. In the 1780s Rama I
rebuilt the original 16th-century temple on this site
and enlarged the complex. In 1832 Rama III built the
Chapel of the Reclining Buddha, housing the stunning
image, and turned the temple into a place of learning.
Wihan
Today Wat Pho is a traditional medicine center, of which The western wihan is
the famous Institute of Massage is a part. Nearby on one of four around
Chetuphon Road is the temple monastery, home to the main bot.
some 300 monks.

. Medicine Pavilion
Embedded in the inner walls of
this pavilion are stone plaques
showing massage points. The
pavilion is now a souvenir shop.

Visitors’ entrance

. Reclining
Buddha
This 150-ft (46-m)
long image fills the
whole wihan.

Feet of the Reclining Buddha Bodhi Tree

The striking, intricate mother-of-pearl It is said that
images on the soles of the feet of the this grew from a
gilded plaster and brick Reclining cutting of the tree
Buddha represent the 108 lakshanas, under which the
which are the auspicious signs of the Buddha meditated
true Buddha. in India.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

Ceramic Decoration
This porcelain design is on the
Phra Si Sanphet Chedi.
Visitors’
entrance
KEY
1 Small buildings at this end of
the wat are reserved for children.
2 The Phra Si Sanphet Chedi
encases the remains of a sacred
Buddha image.
3 Farang guards stand at the
compound’s inner gates. These
huge stone statues with big
noses, beards, and top hats are
caricatures of Westerners.
4 Institute of Massage
OLD CITY  97
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Sanam Chai Rd. Map 5 C1. Tel
0-2226-0335. Open 9am–5pm
daily. & 8 ∑ watpho.com
Institute of Massage: Tel 0-2622-
3550-1. Open 8:30am–6pm daily.
& ∑ watpomassage.com
Transport
@ AC: 25, 32, 44, 60, 508.
4 Tien, Chang, Rachinee.
Main Bot
Wat Pho’s bot houses a bronze
meditating Buddha image
salvaged from Ayutthaya by
Rama I’s brother. Scenes from
the Ramakien (see pp44–5) are
carved into the outer base and
inner doors.
Miniature Mountains
This tiny stone mountain
by the southern wihan is
one of several within the
complex. The statues of
naked hermits are posed
in the different positions
of healing massage.
Traditional Massage
Since the 1960s Wat Pho has run the most respected massage
school in the city. Traditional Thai massage (nuat paen boran)
supposedly dates from the time
of the Buddha and is related to
Chinese acupuncture and
Indian yoga. The highly trained
masseurs at the wat specialize
in pulling and stretching the
limbs and torso to relieve
various ailments ranging from
general tension to viruses.
Visitors can experience a
massage or learn the art
through a 10- or 15-day Braving a traditional Thai massage
course in Thai or English. at Wat Pho
 Bangkok  99

CHINATOWN
Bangkok’s Chinese residents originally with market stalls. The most accessible are
lived in the area where the old City is the wholesale fabric market of Sampeng
today. When Rama I decided to move his Lane and the diverse offerings of the vendors
capital across the river in 1782, the entire along Soi Isara nuphap. other major markets
community was relocated. Since then the in Chinatown include Pak khlong, nakorn
district around Yaowarat and Sampeng kasem, and Phahurat. near to Hua Lamphong
roads has been the focus of Chinese life in Station is Wat Traimit with its splendid
the city, although now it is also home to a interior and huge gold Buddha image.
small Indian community. once the financial The area is peppered with Chinese shrines,
center of Bangkok, Chinatown remains a many of which combine elements of
thriving, bustling, noisy area. Between the Confucianism, Taoism, Mahayana Buddhism,
two great traffic-choked thoroughfares of and animism. old Chinese noodle shops
Yaowarat Road and Charoen krung Road patronized by mahjong-playing, undershirt-
lies a maze of narrow alleyways packed clad men make interesting snack spots.

Sights at a Glance
Wats Historic Buildings
4 Wat Traimit 5 Hua Lamphong Station
Markets
1 Pak Khlong Market 0 meters 500
2 Phahurat Market
0 yards 500
3 Nakorn Kasem

BA
MR
AL I 1

UN
AK

CH G
3

A L OE M
S O I SU A N M

AL O M K H E U
CH
CH

AN
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MA

K
DI CH HET 2
AI

CH
T
TR SAM A K ALO
CH

SOI
KHEL OEM H E T 3 E M RA
A

OK Y OT
N

A T4 SI
CH K MA
SUA

LA

Kasem
OR

AN I
PH
L
HO

LU
W

AN A
HL
SOI

G
K

P
CHAROEN
YU

KRUNG SOI R M
S S W AY

(NEW RO CH 4
Krung

A AO
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AI
PHA

) LUAN SO I R M
S E M

G
ACH

YO KH 3
EXPRE

AM
BURA

M
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A D ANG

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C
H A Ang

AR RO SO I R
P H R A PHI T A K H
T

AH

CH

P M 2
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M
PHE

PHA
RO
Phadu A
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SU 3
ng
MO

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M U A
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AT

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EN
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LA

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KO
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TR
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PH

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PH
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PH

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P H A H U R AT (N M U A NA T
AP

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SANTIP
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AK SA RO
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6
KLANHA

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Pak
KA

Lamphong CMHUAR O E N
HA

AP
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Khlong R
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TC

O A
A

WO
RI
A

SAP -S
NU
AM

NG M
RA

HAN AT PH YA
Memorial A
P

H A HO
RA

CH

PHU AT O
A

Bridge N W
I

CH

T
W
SO

SA
SA

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O

A
I I

SO
AT

AR

IT

NG
SO

R
W

WA
SAMPHAN
A

T
SA

R
OE
T

Ratchawong IT
P

THAWONG M
SOI
NG

I
TR
N

P H R U T H A R AM
SO

Ch Hua Lampong
ao IT
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KR

TR AN
SO O L
NG KA
W AT
UN

Song Sawat K
SO
IW TRO-O
SOI

SOI C K 2 9 LA
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AN
IT
2
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CHA

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M AH A
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Marine Dept
ray

A
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a

SI
See also Street Finder River
City
pp148–59

Ornate temple decoration, Chinatown For keys to symbols see back flap
100  bangkok

Street-by-Street:
Central Chinatown
vfuiguH
This area is Chinatown at its most atmospheric, with its
vibrant colors, pungent smells, overwhelming cacophony,
and frenetic bustle. a cross-section of the district can
be experienced by walking up Soi Isara nuphap from
Ratchawong pier. after Songwat Road, with its old wooden
buildings, the street is lined with wholesale spice shops.
Past the fabric market of Sampeng Lane, the sidewalk Kao Market
is crowded with fresh and preserved foods. once over Fresh produce, such as
Yaowarat Road, with its countless gold shops and Chinese mushrooms, is sold at Kao (“old”)
herbal medicine stores, snack stalls predominate before Market, which has been here since
the late 18th century.
giving way, after crossing traffic-choked Charoen krung
Road, to sellers of Chinese religious paraphernalia.
Tang To Kang Gold Shop G
ON
This antique water filter is HA
W
displayed at Tang To Kang, C
R AT
a seven-story structure
built as Chinatown’s
central Gold Exchange in
the late 19th century.

YA
O W
AR
AT
To Sampeng NG
KE
Market IA
I AN
SO

G
ON
To Pak W
SA

HA
M

Khlong TC
PE

RA
NG

Market NG
Sanchao Kuan Oo KE
I A
People who hope for luck in AN
ON

OI
GK

gambling leave offerings of S

AN

vegetables in front of a gilded

M

horse’s head in this temple. SO

N
SA

GW
M

AT
PE
NG

OM
KH
NG
RO
OK
TR
T
NI
HA
0 meters 100 Ratchawong AP
SO OW
NG YA
0 yards 100 WA
T
Ch
ao To River City
Ph Department Store
ra
ya

Songwat Road
Despite the trucks transporting goods to the
busy pier at Ratchawong, the old houses and
commercial buildings along Songwat Road
give a flavor of Chinatown as it was in the
19th century. This old wooden warehouse
stands opposite Soi Thanam San Chao.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 C h i n ato w n  101

. Leng Noi Yee

dusiT
This Buddhist shrine combines
elements of Confucianism and Old ciTy

Taoism, attracting a wide

chinaTOWn
range of devotees. The main
chamber contains several
gilded Buddha images. ThOn buri

dOWnTOWn

Locator Map
see street Finder map 6
10

Sanchao Dtai Hong Kong

G
UN

At this popular temple

KR
CH

EN

relatives of the dead burn

AR

RO
O EN

“hell’s banknotes” to provide

HA
KR

IC

for their loved ones in the

UN
ON

SO
G
GK

afterlife (see p103). Devotees

AN

LA CHAI
M

make merit by buying and

freeing caged birds.
B PH
AP

LA
PH

PH
NU
A
AR
I IS
SO

CH
AR
M

OE
NA

N
KR
NG

UN
EA

G
PL

YA
O WA
R AT

To Hua Li Thi Miew

Lamphong This atmospheric temple within a courtyard is
Station topped by fierce dragons. Inside, incense smoke
This picturesque swirls around statues of Taoist deities.
sausage shop is To Wat Traimit
said to date from
the 19th century.

. Yaowarat Road
One of Chinatown’s main
traffic arteries, this bustling
road is packed with gold
shops, herbal sellers, cafés,
and restaurants.
Mai Market
Mai (“new”) Market can’t
boast the pedigree of Kao
Market, but it is still a good
source of everyday and
unusual items like snake
parts for Chinese medicine.
For keys to symbols see back flap
102  BANGKOK
Vendor selling a wide range of chilies, Pak Khlong Market
1 Pak Khlong
Market

Maharaj Rd. Map 5 C1. @ AC: 501,
512. 4 Rachinee, Pak Khlong.
Open daily.
Open 24 hours a day, Pak
Khlong Market provides the
city with fresh flowers and
vegetables. Known for offering
the best array of flowers in
Thailand, it is a one-stop florist’s
dream. Deliveries arrive from
1am and by dawn the display
has roses, orchids, lotus, jasmine,
and Dutch tulips. The widest
variety of blooms can be seen at
9am. Visitors can buy bouquets
or floral basket arrangements.
2 Phahurat Market

Phahurat Rd. Map 6 D1.
@ 6, 37, 82, 88; AC: 3, 82.
This predominantly Indian
market offers all the tastes,
sights, and smells of Bombay.
The main bazaar, which spills
out around Phahurat and Chak
Phet roads, specializes in fabrics.
Downstairs, cloth merchants
sell anything from tablecloths
to wedding saris. The dimly lit
upstairs section is devoted to
traditional Indian accessories
such as sandals and ornate
jewelry. In the surrounding
streets are many delicious “hole-
in-the-wall” Indian restaurants
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
and samosa stalls. Off Chakphet
Road is Siri Guru Singh Sabha,
a traditional Sikh temple.
3 Nakorn Kasem

Charoen Krung Rd. Map 6 E1.
@ AC: 501, 507.
Popularly known as Thieves’
Market because stolen goods
were allegedly once sold here,
Nakorn Kasem has discarded
its illicit past and now has a
miscellaneous collection of
shops selling metal wares,
musical instruments, and a
wide range of ornaments.
Nearby is Saphan Han Market,
a covered market along both
sides of Khlong Ong Ang. Its
specialty is electrical goods. The
area is filled with smells wafting
from nearby noodle stalls.
4 Wat Traimit

Tri Mit Rd. Map 6 F2. @ 1, 4, 11, 25,
53, 73; AC: 501, 507.
Open 9am–5pm daily.
Also called the Temple of the
Golden Buddha, Wat Traimit
houses the world’s largest solid
gold Buddha. The gleaming 13-ft
(4-m) high 13th-century Sukho-
thai image is made of 18-carat
gold and weighs five tons.
The Buddha was discovered
by accident in 1955. While
extending the port of Bangkok,
workers for the East Asiatic
Company unearthed what
appeared to be a plain stucco
Buddha. The image was kept at
Wat Traimit under a makeshift
shelter for 20 years, until a crane
dropped it while moving it
to a more permanent shelter.
The plaster cracked, revealing
the gold Buddha beneath.
The statue had likely been
encased in stucco to hide it
from Burmese ransackers – a
common practice during the
Ayutthaya period (see pp64–5).
Local Chinese residents come
here to worship the Golden
Buddha and to make merit
by rubbing gold leaf on the
temple’s smaller Buddha images.
Wat Traimit, which houses the revered
Golden Buddha image
5 Hua Lampong
Station

Rama IV Rd. Map 7 A2. Tel 1690.
q Hua Lampong. @ 4, 21, 25, 29, 34,
40, 48, 109; AC: 501, 507, 529.
∑ railway.co.th
King Chulalongkorn (Rama V),
a great champion of modern-
ization, was the instigator of
rail travel in Thailand. The first
railroad line, begun in 1891,
was a private line from Paknam
to Hua Lampong. Today, the
historic station is Bangkok’s
main rail junction. From here,
trains leave for the North,
Northeast, the Central Plains,
and the South. The city’s other
station, Bangkok Noi, serves
only the South.
 C H I N ATO W N  103

The Chinese in Thailand

The first Chinese immigrants arrived in Thailand as merchants in the 12th century.
During the late 18th and early 19th centuries, following years of war in Thailand
(see pp68–9), Chinese immigration was encouraged in order to help rebuild the economy.
The subsequent integration of the Chinese into Thai society was so successful that by
the mid-19th century half of Bangkok’s population was of pure or mixed Chinese blood.
There have been periods of anti-Chinese feeling and immigration restrictions, but the
Chinese still dominate Thailand’s commercial sector. Chinese traditions and beliefs
remain strong in their communities.

Leng Noi Yee Temple in

Bangkok is an important
Mahayana Buddhist shrine
that also incorporates
elements of Taoism and
Confucianism. The temple,
with its glazed ceramic
gables topped by Chinese
dragons, is the focal point “Hell’s banknotes” are a form of
of the annual Vegetarian kong tek – paper replicas of real
Festival (see p51). objects, burned to provide for
the dead during their next life.

Intricate Chinese designs

feature on many utensils,
such as these pan covers.

Fresh vegetables are

essential to many
Chinese dishes.

Chinese Shop-Houses
Shop-houses are a common
feature of Chinatown. The
family lives on the first floor
while the ground floor is
devoted to the family business,
whether it is a small workshop
or a store selling, for example,
food or household goods.

Dim sum, literally

Chinese opera, “touch the heart,”
performed by can be sampled in
traveling troupes, many of the area’s
features a dramatic Chinese restaurants.
mixture of martial arts, The bite-size snacks
acrobatics, singing, include shrimp toast
and dance. and pork dumplings.

Sign painting is not

just a decorative art
form. These good luck
messages, written in
gold, are said to ward
off evil and sickness.
They are displayed in
great numbers during
the Chinese New Year.
 BANGKOK  105

DUSIT
Dusit is the center of Thai officialdom and an Park. Nearby is the royal “marble” temple of
oasis of relative calm in a chaotic city. Tree- Wat Benchamabophit and Chitrlada Palace,
lined avenues, khlongs, old buildings, and the king and queen’s residence. Political
the low skyline have all been preserved here. power is also concentrated in Dusit. The
King Chulalongkorn laid out the district National Assembly, Government House,
along European lines, with grand vistas, several ministries, and the Prime Minister’s
broad boulevards, and a geometric road house are located here. By contrast, horse
grid surrounding his palaces. A century later racing at the Royal Turf Club, muay thai
it is still the royal quarter. Ratchadamnoen boxing at Ratchadamnoen Stadium, and
Avenue (“royal way”) leads up to Vimanmek animal encounters at the landscaped Dusit
Mansion and the royal museums in Dusit Zoo provide popular public entertainment.

Sights at a Glance
Wats and Churches Landmark Buildings
2 Dusit’s Christian Churches 8 Chitrlada Palace
4 Wat Indrawihan Markets
0 Wat Benchamabophit
3 Thewet Flower Market
Museums
Parks and Zoos
5 Vimanmek Mansion
6 SUPPORT Museum 1 Dusit Park pp106–7
7 Dusit Zoo
Notable Roads
9 Phitsanulok Road
q Ratchadamnoen Avenue

SO 0 meters 500
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S A SEN RA 0 yards 500
MS 13 TC
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See also Street Finder

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pp148–59 G
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Vimanmek Mansion, Dusit For keys to symbols see back flap

106  BANGKOK

1 Dusit Park

DUSIT
This magnificent park is the major attraction of the Dusit area.
King Chulalongkorn (ruled 1868–1910), the first Thai
OLD CITY
sovereign to visit Europe, was determined to Westernize
Bangkok, and the manicured gardens, genteel architecture, DOWN-
CHINATOWN TOWN
and teak mansions in Dusit Park all bear testimony to his
efforts. Highlights include Vimanmek Mansion – the world’s Locator Map
largest golden teak building – and the graceful Abhisek See Street Finder maps 2, 3

Dusit Throne Hall, which houses the SUPPORT Museum

of traditional arts and crafts. A visit to the park and the
neighboring zoo (see p109) can easily occupy a whole day.

King Bhumibol’s
Photographic Museums
Most of the photographs in
these museums were taken
by King Bhumibol, an avid
photographer. The royal
family features in many.

Royal Paraphernalia
Museum
Photographs and paintings
of regal figures from the
Chakri dynasty, such as this
portrait of Maha Uparaja
Bovornvijaya Jarn, the
deputy king to King
Rama V, can be seen
in this museum.

Antique Textile Exhibition Hall

This small collection includes a
range of fabrics favored by
the court of King Rama V, such
as satin. There are also displays of
the different types of Thai silk
from all over Thailand.

KEY Entrance

1 Perimeter wall
2 Canal 0 meters 50

3 Bridge 0 yards 50

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 DUSIT  107

. Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This hall (see p109) is a fancifully
ornamented white edifice. The major Practical Information
attraction inside is the SUPPORT Map 2 F1. n 0-2628-6300-9,
Museum, with its collection of ext 0#. Vimanmek Mansion:
traditional, crafted artifacts, such as Open 9:30am–3:15pm daily
works using the exquisitely colored (tickets sold till 3pm). 8
wings of jewel beetles. compulsory. SUPPORT Museum:
Open 9:30am–3:15pm daily.
All other buildings: Open 9am–
4pm daily. Closed for royal
ceremonies. & Royal Mansion
ticket (valid 30 days) inc adm to
Dusit Park and all buildings. ^
in buildings. ∑ palaces.thai.net
Transport
@ 56, 70; AC: 70, 510, 515.

Lakeside Pavilion
An elegant pavilion behind Vimanmek Palace affords
a pleasant view across the lake to some particularly
fine traditional Thai teak houses. The farther bank is,
however, closed to visitors.

. Vimanmek Mansion
More like a Victorian
mansion than a Thai
palace, this three-storied,
golden teak structure
(see pp108–9) was built
using wooden pegs
instead of nails. The palace
is full of intriguing artifacts.

Old Clock Museum

This museum houses the
collection of clocks acquired
by Kings Rama V and Rama IX
on their trips to Europe.
It includes timepieces of
European, American, and
Japanese origin.
108  bangkok
2 Dusit’s Christian
Churches

Map 2 E1. @ 3, 9, 30, 53; AC: 506;
MB: 8, 10.
By the bank of the Chao Phraya
River, just south of Ratchawithi
Road, is a small group of
Christian churches.
The first of these, St. Francis
Xavier Church, is near Krung
Thon Bridge. Built in the early
1850s, it is notable for the statue
of the saint atop its triple-arched
portico frontage. Among its
congregation are members of
the local Vietnamese Catholic
community, who settled here
in 1934.
Just south is the smaller
Church of the Immaculate
Conception. It was originally
constructed in 1674, during
King Narai’s reign (see pp64–5),
by Father Louis Laneau for the
early Portuguese community.
It was then rebuilt in 1847 by
French missionaries, and within
its grounds is a smaller church
known as Wat Noi. Some
Cambodian refugees settled
here in the late 17th century and
still live in the parish. They take
part in religious festivals here,
hence the church’s nickname,
the Cambodian Church.
Wat Noi houses the Wat
Mae Phrae Museum (no set
opening times), which contains
a statue of the Virgin Mary.
The statue is venerated in
an annual ceremony held
each October.
Porticoed entrance of St. Francis
Xavier Church
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
Modern mural of a reclining Buddha, Wat Indrawihan
3 Thewet Flower
Market

Krung Kasem Rd. Map 2 E2. @ AC:
506. National Library: Samsen Rd.
Open 9:30am–7:30pm daily.
One of Bangkok’s premier plant
and garden markets flanks both
sides of Khlong
Phadung Krung
Kasem, west of
Samsen Road. It
stocks a huge range
of goods, including
ornamental garden
pots, orchids, trees,
and pond bases.
Although Thewet
Market is not as vast
as Chatuchak Market
(see p139), its prices Ornamental garden pots at temple) are hundreds
are generally lower. Thewet Flower Market
It is a pleasant place
to browse, even if
you buy nothing.
Around the corner is the
National Library, which
contains a large collection
of books in Thai and English.
A number of Thai paintings
hang in the lobby. The exterior
incorporates several traditional
Thai architectural touches
(see pp38–9), as do many
government offices in the area.
4 Wat Indrawihan

Wisut Kasat Rd. Map 2 E3. @ 3, 53;
AC: 506. Open daily.
You cannot miss the reason
for Wat Indrawihan’s fame:
an impressive 105-ft (32-m)
standing Buddha. The statue
was commissioned in the mid-
19th century by King Mongkut
(Rama IV) to enshrine a relic
of the Buddha from Sri Lanka.
(Relics such as fragments of
bone and hair are housed
in countless Buddhist
monuments worldwide.)
While admittedly not the most
beautiful of Buddha images
because of its rather
flattened features, it
stands out attractively
against the sky. Its
enormous toes make
a bizarre altar for the
many offerings
presented, including
garlands of flowers.
Inside the bot of
Wat In (a popular
abbreviation for the
of Bencharong (five-
color) funerary urns.
Traditional-style,
modern murals can also be seen
inside the bot. In another, smaller
building, “lucky” water is sold in
plastic bags.
5 Vimanmek
Mansion

Ratchawithi Rd. Map 2 F1. Tel 0-2628-
6300-9 (ext 0#). @ 56, 70; AC: 70, 510,
515. Open 9:30am–3:15pm daily.
Closed 1–6 Jan. & (free for Grand
Palace ticket holders). ^ inside. 8
compulsory. ∑ palaces.thai.net
Constructed entirely without
nails, the world’s largest golden
teak building was reassembled
on this site in 1901, after being
moved from its original location
on Ko Sichang (see pp320–21).

It soon became a favored retreat
of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V)
and his family and concubines
while they were waiting for
nearby Chitrlada Palace (see
p110) to be completed. Apart
from the king, the mansion was
for women only. After closing in
1935 and falling into disrepair,
this “celestial residence” was
magnificently restored in 1982
at the request of Queen Sirikit
for Bangkok’s bicentennial
celebrations (see pp72–3).
The guided tour takes in 30
of the 81 rooms via circuitous
corridors. Highlights include the
audience chambers, the music
room, sweeping staircases, and
the king’s apartments, which are
contained within an octagonal
tower. The palace was the
first building in Thailand to
have electricity and an indoor
bathroom; an early light bulb
and a showerhead are two of
the items on display.
Treasures from the
Rattanakosin era include
porcelain, furniture, betel-nut
sets, the first Thai alphabet
typewriter, hunting trophies,
and royal photographs. King
Chulalongkorn was known for
his taste in Western-style design,
and the palace, with its verandas
and high ceilings, is reminiscent
of a Victorian mansion.
Although the tour allows little
time inside, visitors can walk
around outside or sit in a lakeside
porch, where Thai dancing (see
pp46–7) and disquieting monkey
acrobatics are staged twice daily.
Vimanmek Mansion, the summer residence
of Rama V
Domed ceiling of the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall
6 SUPPORT
Museum

Ratchawithi Rd. Map 2 F1.
Tel 0-2628-6300. @ AC: 510, 515.
Open 9:30am–3:15pm daily. &
Housed in the Abhisek Dusit
Throne Hall beside Vimanmek
Palace (and included on the
same ticket), the SUPPORT
Museum is a showcase for
traditional crafts that have
been saved from decline by
Queen Sirikit, founder of the
Promotion of Supplementary
Occupations and Related
Techniques (SUPPORT). One
such craft is yan lipao weaving,
which originated in Nakhon Si
Thammarat (see pp382–3).
The fine reed used in yan
lipao lends itself to intricate
patterns, its sheen giving
the end product a luster.
Crafts on display
include nielloware,
rattan, bamboo, celadon,
lacquerware, and an art
form that uses the
iridescent green-blue
wings of jewel beetles.
Some of the designs
were created by
members of the royal
family. One of the
training centers for
SUPPORT is at the
Bang Sai Folk Arts and
Crafts Center near Bang Pa-in
(see p185). South Abhisek Dusit
is another throne hall, Ananta
Samakorn. Dating from 1912,
DUSIT  109
this ornate, Italianate building
once housed the parliament.
Today it is used for royal
receptions and private
functions. Its spectacular interior
is open to the public only on
Children’s Day, the second
Saturday in January.
7 Dusit Zoo
  ()
Rama V & Ratchawithi rds. Map 3 A2.
Tel 0-2281-2000. @ AC: 510, 515.
Open 8am–6pm daily. &
∑ zoothailand.org
Forming a green wedge bet-
ween Dusit Park and Chitrlada
Palace are the lush gardens of
Dusit Zoo. One of Asia’s
better zoos, it has
reasonable space for
birds and large
mammals such as
tigers, bears, elephants,
and hippos, although
some of the other
enclosures are
much more
confining. There is
a Reptile House and a
recreation of an African
Savanna. The grounds
were originally the
private botanical
Black bear in gardens of Rama V, and
Dusit Zoo some varieties of tropical
flora are still cultivated
here. The lawns, lakes, and
wooded glades are ideal for
relaxing strolls and watching
Thai families enjoying a day out.
110  BANGKOK

8 Chitrlada Palace Mission Hospital at the


Ratchawithi & Rama V rds. Map 3 B2.
@ 18, 28; AC: 510. Closed to public.
The permanent residence of
the king and queen is an early
20th-century palace set in
extensive grounds (closed to
the public), east of Dusit Zoo.
Although the palace is hidden
from view, the buildings used
by King Bhumibol (Rama IX) for
agricultural and industrial
experiments are visible. In
1993 he became the
first monarch in
the world to earn a
patent – for a waste
water aerator.
The grounds also
contain the Chitrlada
School, for children of
the royal family. A portrait of King
The perimeter of the Bhumibol
palace is illuminated
from the King’s Birthday (Dec 5)
to New Year.
9 Phitsanulok Road 12:30pm to 6:30pm every other

Sawankhalok Road end, the first
of interest is Ban Phitsanulok.
This mansion has been the
official residence of the prime
minister since it was restored in
1982. It was originally built in
1925 by Rama VI for Major
General Phraya Aniruttheva.
Designed by the same Italian
architects who built the Ananta
Samakorn Throne Hall (see p109), Filling in the results at the end of a race at
it is a riot of Venetian Gothic, the Royal Turf Club
with floral-shaped mullioned
windows, spindly the first or second weekend
crenellations, and a of January.
sweeping curved Government House, to the
wing. It is not open west, just past the Nakhon
to the public, and Pathom Road turning, is a
guests rarely stay fanciful, cream-colored Neo-
overnight, because Venetian style building. It is
the mansion is now used to house the prime
supposedly haunted. minister’s office, and it is
On the opposite closed to the public.
side of the road is
the grassy oval of the
Royal Turf Club, one 0 Wat Benchama-
of Bangkok’s two major horse-
racing tracks (see p121). Races
bophit
alternate between the two 
tracks, and are held here from
69 Rama V Rd. Map 3 A3.
Tel 0-2281-2501. @ 3, 16, 23, 505.
Sunday. The stands fill with
bettors from all levels of Thai
Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. &

Map 2 E2. @ 16, 23, 201, 505.

A number of important state
institutions are located along
this major avenue, which cuts
through the heart of Dusit.
Traveling northwest past the
society. Experiencing the banter
and furious betting can often be
as much fun as watching the
race itself. The most prominent
annual event that takes place
here is the King’s Cup, also
known as the Derby Cup, on
European influence on Thai
architecture (see pp38–9) is exem-
plified by Wat Benchamabophit,
the last major temple to be
built in central Bangkok. In 1899
King Chulalongkorn (Rama V)
commissioned his brother Prince

Royal White Elephants

The importance of the white elephant (chang samkhan) in Thailand derives from a 2,500-year-old
tale. Queen Maya, once barren, became pregnant with the future Buddha after dreaming of a white
elephant entering her womb. Ever since the 13th century, when King Ramkamhaeng gave the
animal great prestige, the reigning monarch’s
importance has been judged in part according
to the number of white elephants he owns.
Indeed, the white elephant’s status as a
national icon was symbolized by its presence
on the Siamese flag until 1917. The origin of
the phrase “white elephant,” meaning a large,
useless investment, lies in the Thai tradition
according to which all white elephants must
belong to the king. They cannot be used for
work and, therefore, have to be cared for at
huge expense. Though referred to as white,
the elephants are not fully albino. But tradition
states that seven parts of their body – the eyes,
palate, nails, tail hair, skin, hairs, and testicles –
Old manuscript depicting a white elephant must be close to white.

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33


Singhas guarding the entrance to Wat Benchamabophit
Naris and the Italian architect
Hercules Manfredi to design a
new bot and cloister for the
original Ayutthaya-period
temple which stood on the
site. The nickname for the
new wat (“Marble Temple”) is
derived from the gray Carrara
marble used to clad the walls.
Laid out in cruciform with
cascading roof levels, the bot
is elegantly proportioned.
It contains another successful
fusion of traditions: intricate
Victorian-style stained-glass
windows depicting scenes
from Thai mythology. In the
room of the ashes of Rama V
is the most revered copy of
Phitsanulok’s Phra Phuttha
Chinarat (see pp164–5), with a
pointed halo. In the cloister are
53 different Buddha images,
originals and copies of images
from around Thailand and other
Buddhist countries, assembled
by Rama V.
Within the wat is one of the
three sets of doors inlaid with
mother-of-pearl that were
salvaged from Wat Borom Buddh-
aram in Ayutthaya. The building
in which Rama V lived as a
monk features murals depicting
events that occurred during
his reign.
Wat Benchamabophit is a
popular location for
witnessing monastic rituals,
from Buddhist holiday
processions to the daily alms
round (see p133), in which
merit-makers donate food to
the monks lined up outside the
wat along Nakhon Pathom
Road. This is a reversal of the
usual practice where the monks
go out in search of alms.
Annual Trooping of the Colors ceremony, Ratchadamnoen Avenue
European-inspired Wat Benchamabophit
DUSIT  111
q Ratchadamnoen
Avenue

Map 2 D4. @ 15, 33, 39, 70, 159, 201;
AC: 511, 503, 157, 170, 183.
Planned by King Mongkut
(Rama IV) in the style of a
European boulevard, this
thoroughfare has three parts.
The first section, Ratcha-
damnoen Nai (“inner”), starts at
Lak Muang and skirts Sanam
Luang (see pp82–3), before veer-
ing east at the Royal Hotel as
Ratchadamnoen Klang-
(“middle”). From here it passes
the Democracy Monument
(see p91) and 1930s mansions –
a vista featured in the movie
Good Morning, Vietnam.
Just across Khlong
Banglamphu, Ratchadamnoen
Nok (“outer”) turns north into the
Dusit area. This stretch, shaded by
trees, is flanked by ministries, the
main TAT headquarters, and
Ratchadamnoen Boxing
Stadium (see p49). Just before
the ornate double bridge over
Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem is
the Thai-influenced modern
building of the United Nations
Economic and Social Commission
for Asia and the Pacific (ESCAP).
The avenue ends at the
domed Ananta Samakhom
Throne Hall (see p109), which
looms up beyond the Chula-
longkorn Equestrian Statue in
the parade ground, the site of
December’s Trooping of the
Colors ceremony (see p55).
Ratchadamnoen Avenue is
decorated and illuminated in
December as part of King
Bhumibol’s birthday festivities.
 BANGKOK  115

DOWNTOWN
The center of Bangkok’s vast and continually after dark its northern end is the heart of
expanding downtown is the area spanning city nightlife. Farther north, showcase stores
Silom and Ploenchit roads. The business line Ploenchit and Rama I roads, while the
district originated in the 19th century in stalls of Silom Road and Siam Square provide
the Old Farang quarter of Charoen Krung cheaper shopping. Amid the tower blocks,
Road, where charming colonial buildings Lumphini Park provides green relief, and
have been conserved around the Oriental a few traditional Thai buildings remain,
Hotel. The concrete canyon of Silom is the such as Jim Thompson House and Suan
preserve of business people by day, but Pakkad Palace.

Sights at a Glance Parks and Sports Grounds

Wats, Shrines, and Churches 9 Lumphini Park
2 Assumption Cathedral q Royal Bangkok Sports Club
5 Maha Uma Devi Temple Historic Buildings
w Erawan Shrine
1 Mandarin Oriental Hotel
e Wat Pathum Wanaram
0 Chulalongkorn University
Museums and Libraries
Zoos
6 Neilson-Hays Library
8 Snake Farm
t Bangkok Art and Culture Center
0 meters 1000
y Jim Thompson House pp124–5
i Suan Pakkad Palace 0 yards 1000

Notable Roads and Districts SI

AY
UT
TH
3 Charoen Krung (New) Road AY
A
4 Silom Road
URI

SI A
Phaya
Y

YUT
7 Patpong T H AY
HAB

Thai
WA

A
P E T CS O I
5

r Siam Square
AI
ESS

u Pratunam PET
TH

CH
NG

PRATUNAM
P

AB
ARO

UR
21 URI
PR

HO

I
P H A YA

HAB
T T

P H AY
PETC SOI

HAPR

A
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PET
CH
AB
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PETCHA I
SO

UR
R AT C
18

I
BA

Ratchatewi
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an
GK

National
IT L OM

Stadium Siam
BAN

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NG5

RAMA
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(WIRE

See also Street Finder

UL AL

P H AY A

SOI

pp148–59
SO I CH

Hua
SO I CH

AMRI

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Lampong
RA CHULA SOI
HENRI

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19

U A
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SSW

Shangri-La N N
HOR
Surasak S AT
AY

Saphan
Thaksin

Bangkok’s downtown area at night For keys to symbols see back flap
116  BANGKOK

Street-by-Street: Old Farang Harmonique restaurant is

one of a row of Chinese shop-
Quarter houses built around 1900.
 To Portuguese Embassy
and GPO
This area was Bangkok’s original port and foreign commercial district in
the 19th century. In 1820 Portugal was granted land in Bangkok, which
resulted in the construction of the Portuguese Embassy. Embassies of
other countries, such as France, soon followed. These outside influences
created an amalgam of Western and Eastern architectural styles.

34
Charoen Krung (New) Road, the first road in Thailand to be paved,

I
SO
cuts through the Old Farang Quarter and is home to gem
traders, tailors, and antique dealers. The elegant Assumption
Cathedral faces Bangkok’s only European-style square.
The Quarter’s back streets are surprisingly quiet and
contain some attractive wooden houses.

36
I
SO
House of Gems
is a tiny shop/museum selling rocks and
fossils. Geological oddities – such as
dinosaur droppings and tektites (glassy
meteorites) – can be seen here.

The Old Customs

House was built
in the 1880s.
Its exterior is The French Embassy
now crumbling. features pitched roofs
and carved verandas.

The Haroon Mosque

is a quaint stucco building with a
Muslim graveyard. The mosque, which
faces Mecca, is off a street lined with
wooden houses.

1 . Mandarin Oriental Hotel

The world-renowned Mandarin Oriental Hotel was
established in 1876 by two Danish sea captains. In 1958
a new structure (the Tower Wing) was added, and in 1976
the 10-story River Wing opened.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 DOWNTOWN  117

The China House,

one of Bangkok’s most DUSIT
expensive restaurants, is in
a building dating from the
reign of King Vajiravudh CHINATOWN
(see p71). The structure next DOWNTOWN

door, the Commercial Co.

of Siam, was erected in
the same era.

Locator Map
See Street Finder map 6

2 . Assumption Cathedral
This elegantly decorated cathedral
was built in 1910. The cathedral’s
Rococo interior features a high,
C
H
vaulted ceiling and a striking
A marble altar from France.
R
O
E
N
K
R
U
N
G
38

)
I

40
SO

I
O

M
(S

LO
UE

O
RI
SI

EN
EN

0 meters 50
TA
L
AV

LA 0 yards 50
N
E
L
TA

SO
EN

I
42
RI

/1
O

2
I 4
SO

To Taksin
44
I Bridge
SO

Bangrak
Market

The East Asiatic

Shangri-La
Company building is a
Venetian-style edifice Hotel
constructed in 1901.

Wat Suan Phu

Key is distinguished by its carved
wooden buildings and the Phra
Suggested route
Bodhisattva Kuan-Im, a Chinese
shrine over a carp pond.
118  bangkok

opposite bank, one of the 3 Charoen Krung

hotel’s eight highly acclaimed (New) Road
restaurants. Performances of
traditional dance are staged 
here as guests dine. The hotel
Map 6 F2. @ 1; AC: 504.
runs a respected school of
Thai cookery. Skirting the Chao Phraya
River – from Wat Pho through
Chinatown and on to
2 Assumption Yannawa – Charoen Krung,
Cathedral or New Road (as it is often
also called) is one of Bangkok’s
 oldest thoroughfares.
Oriental Lane, off Charoen Krung Rd. Linking the Customs House
Map 6 F4. @ 35, 75. Open daily. and many trading companies,
the road was once the center
This Romanesque-style brick of Bangkok’s European
edifice was built in 1910 on the community. At their insistence
Neo-Classical façade of the Authors’ Wing of site of an earlier cathedral. Its rose it became Thailand’s first
the Mandarin Oriental Hotel window is flanked by twin squat paved highway. Still home to
towers. The richly ornamented, the gem and antique trades,
1 Mandarin Rococo interior is dominated by today the road is choked with
Oriental Hotel a lofty, barrel-arched blue ceiling traffic pollution and noise,
patterned with gold starbursts. but side streets, lined with trees
 The cathedral faces a tree- and old wooden buildings, can
Oriental Ave, off Charoen Krung Rd. shaded piazza, the site of several be blissfully serene. Along the
Map 6 F4. Tel 0-2659-9000. @ 35, 75. other Western-style buildings. road is the imposing General
4 Oriental. ∑ mandarinoriental. These include the modern Post Office, whose light-brown
com/bangkok Assumption College, the stone façade is adorned with
Neo-Classical Catholic Mission, reliefs of garudas (mythical
Repeatedly voted the world’s and the Renaissance-style beasts, half bird, half human).
best hotel for its service and Catholic Center. In front is a statue of King
attention to detail, the Mandarin
Oriental was Thailand’s first large
hotel. It was established in 1876
and completely rebuilt in 1887.
More wings have since been
added. The hotel owes much of
its charm to the Armenian
Sarkies brothers, creators of the
luxurious Raffles Hotel in
Singapore, and boasts lavish
decor and a spectacular setting
on the banks of the Chao
Phraya River.
The original, white-shuttered
wing contains the renowned
Authors’ Suites. Somerset
Maugham was one such author
who stayed here in the 1920s.
Recovering from a bout of
malaria, he wrote of the “dust
and heat and noise and
whiteness and more dust” of
Bangkok, though his perception
of the city was to change once
he was able to explore the wats
and khlongs.
Classic, English-style high tea
is served in the Authors’ Lounge
of the hotel, a riot of potted
plants and wicker chairs. A teak
barge shuttles back and forth
to the Sala Rim Naam on the The airy and luxurious lobby of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

Chulalongkorn. The coin and
stamp stalls (open Sundays)
outside the post office and the
Bangrak Market (open daily),
selling clothing and fruit, give
the area vibrancy.
4 Silom Road

Map 7 A4. @ AC: 177, 504, 514, 532,
544. q Silom. £ Saladaeng
(skytrain).
The commercial heart of
Bangkok, Silom Road is
becoming a polluted canyon
of skyscrapers, shopping malls,
and elevated railway lines,
though the area used to
consist of orchards
flanking a canal. One
feature that remains
unchanged is the
many thousands of
barn swallows that
nest here from
October to March.
Towards the river
end of the road, Street vendor
and also on parallel pushing his cart
Surawong Road, are
several gem and silk shops.
Near Patpong (see p120) is the
Dusit Thani Hotel that overlooks Chinese also regularly worship
Lumphini Park and the bustle of here. The Hindu deities Shiva
the local nightlife. Close by is
Convent Road, taking its name
from the Carmelite Convent,
and also home to the Gothic-
style Anglican Christ Church,
built in 1904.
5 Maha Uma Devi
Temple

Corner of Silom and Pan rds. Map 7
B4. @ AC: 76, 502, 504. Open
7am–6pm daily. _ Deepavali (Nov).
Tamils founded this colorful
Hindu temple during the 1860s.
They were part of an influx of
Indians who decided to move
to Bangkok when India was
handed over to the British
Crown in 1858.
The main temple building is
topped by a gold-plated copper
dome above a 20-ft (6-m) high
façade depicting various Hindu
downtown  119
Multicolored deities on the roof of Maha Uma Devi Temple
gods. Always buzzing with 6 Neilson-Hays
activity, and often with live Indian Library
music, the temple is also the
focus for Deepavali (Festival of 
Lights) celebrations in November.
195 Surawong Rd. Map 7 B4.
An oil-lamp ritual is held most Tel 0-2233-1731. @ 16, 93.
days at noon, and on Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Fridays at 11:30am ∑ neilsonhayslibrary.com
there is a prasada
(vegetarian Housed within an elegant
ceremony), in which building beside the British
blessed food is Club is the Neilson-Hays
distributed to devotees. Library. Its 20,000 volumes
Although some Thais form one of Southeast
might call the temple Wat Asia’s finest English-
Khaek (“Indians’ temple”), language collections.
a common cultural heritage The library was built in 1921
means that many local Thais and in honor of Jennie Neilson-
Hays, who was the mainstay
of the Bangkok Library
and Ganesh feature in Thai Association between 1895
Buddhism, and Hindus regard and 1920. The internal domed
the Buddha as one of the rotunda is used as a modern
incarnations of Vishnu. art gallery.
Western Writers in Bangkok
Western impressions of Thailand were for a long time heavily
influenced by just one author – Anna Leonowens. An English teacher
at the court of King Mongkut (Rama IV), Leonowens wrote the book
that inspired the musical The King and I. However, the portrayal of the
king as a comic figure stirred up anger in the country, and the book is
now regarded as an unreliable historical source. Less controversially,
Joseph Conrad wrote about his journey up the Chao Phraya in
The Shadow Line, and Somerset Maugham
described his impressions of Thailand in
The Gentleman in the Parlour. These are just
two of the Western authors commemorated
by suites at the Oriental Hotel. Others include
Noël Coward, Gore Vidal, Graham Greene,
and Barbara Cartland. The Oriental has also
ventured into other literary projects: it is the
site for the annual prize-giving ceremony of
the SEAWrite Award, established in 1969
to promote contact between writers in
Southeast Asian countries.
Joseph Conrad in 1904
120  BANGKOK

8 Snake Farm

Rama IV Rd. Map 7 C3.
Tel 0-2252- 0161. @ AC: 50, 507.
q Silom. £ Sala Daeng (skytrain).
Open 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri,
8:30am–noon Sat, Sun & public hols
(shows at 10:30am, 2pm). & =

The Queen Saowapha Snake

Looking for bargains at a night market in Patpong
7 Patpong

Silom Rd, Patpong 1 and 2. Map 7 C3.
@ AC: 76, 177, 504, 514. q Silom.
£ Sala Daeng (skytrain).
The private streets of Patpong 1
and 2, named after the one-
time owner, Chinese millionaire
Khun Patpongpanit, comprise
what is probably the world’s
most notorious red-light district.
In the 1960s the area was the
home of Bangkok’s entertain-
ment scene – the go-go bars
sprang up to satisfy airline
crews and US GIs on leave
during the Vietnam War. Since
the 1970s, the sex shows have
Farm is run by the Thai Red Cross.
It makes snakebite serums and
informs the public about local
snakes. Unlike the tourist-
oriented farms, the emphasis is
on education. Demonstrations of
been sustained mainly through venom milking take place twice
tourist patronage. A less visible daily (once daily on weekends),
gay scene exists in adjacent Soi preceded by an explanatory
Silom 4, while Soi Taniya’s slide show. Handlers open a
hostess bars are frequented snake’s mouth and pierce the
mainly by Japanese clients. cellophane lid of a glass jar with
The tourist police department its fangs. The milky venom then
monitors Patpong, and the area squirts harmlessly into the jar.
is surprisingly safe. A night
market, with stalls selling
souvenirs and original and fake
fashions, gives the area a thin
veneer of respectability.
A bookstore in the center of
Patpong is one of Southeast
Asia’s major outlets for books on
feminism and exploitation. Many
visitors come to Patpong out of
curiosity rather than to indulge
in the flesh trade. Cobra before milking, Snake Farm

Sex Workers and Their Clients in Thailand

Historically, prostitution in Thailand was reinforced
by the institution of polygamy. Both are now illegal,
but the use of prostitutes by Thai men is still
widespread. Every town has at least one massage
parlor. The glitzy brothels of Patpong and such towns
as Pattaya and Hat Yai may form the foreign
perception of the Thai sex industry, but they are a
relatively recent development, dating from the
presence of US servicemen in Thailand during the
Vietnam War. Some estimates put the number of sex
workers as high as two million, but a more realistic
Gaudy nightclub sign in central Bangkok
figure is 250,000, one fifth of whom are male.
The majority of prostitutes work for Thai clients,
but a few service the many tourists who come for
so-called “sex holidays.” Increasingly, concern about
exploitation, pedophilia, AIDS, and sex tourism are
being voiced around the world, and countries such
as Sweden now prosecute their nationals caught
paying for sex with children abroad.
Many prostitutes come from the poorest regions
of Thailand or neighboring countries such as
Myanmar. The income, and a somewhat fatalistic
attitude, can outweigh any social disapproval they
may face. But some do not become involved in the
industry willingly, and cases of beatings and
imprisonment are not uncommon. Health
problems, stigma, lack of skills, and death from AIDS
(see p467) spell grim prospects for all sex workers.
Despite a government campaign and the
work of programs by charities such as Empower,
research from 2010 estimates the number of
prostitutes infected at 10 percent for the whole
country, and up to 50 percent for provinces
adjacent to the Myanmar border.

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33


Perfecting the art of tai chi chuan early one morning in Lumphini Park
9 Lumphini Park

Map 8 D3. @ 14; AC: 50, 507.
q Silom, Lumphini. £ Sala Daeng
(skytrain). Open 5:30am–9pm daily.
Named after the Buddha’s
birthplace in Nepal, Bangkok’s
main greenbelt sprawls around
two boating lakes. Dominating
the Silom Road corner of the
park is a statue of Rama VI.
The best time to visit is early
morning, when it is used by
Thais for jogging and Chinese
for practicing t’ai chi ch’uan. The
superstitious can be seen
consuming fresh snake blood
and bile to keep ill health at
bay, purchased from stalls along
the park’s northern edge. The
park is a relaxing place to stroll
and observe elderly Chinese
playing chess, and impromptu
games of takraw (a type of
volleyball in which the hands
may not be used).
0 Chulalongkorn
University

Phya Thai Rd. Map 7 C2. @ 16, 40, 47,
50; AC: 501; MB: 1. Tel 0-2215-0871.
Imaging Tech Museum: Tel 0-2218-
5583. Open 10:30am–3:30pm Mon–
Fri. & Art Gallery: Tel 0-2218-2965.
Open daily. Closed public hols.
Museum of Natural History:
Open 10am–3:30pm daily.
Dedicated to the modern-
minded king who founded it,
this is Thailand’s oldest, richest,
and most prestigious
university. Chulalongkorn’s
central gardens, between the
busy Phya Thai and Henri
Dunant roads, are the site of
several attractive buildings and
a pond that is often used
during the festival of Loy
Krathong (see p54).
The Imaging Technology
Museum, south of the
lake, features hands-on
photographic displays,
including a room where you
can develop and print your own
film, and exhibitions of high-
quality photography from
Thailand and other countries.
Nearby are an auditorium,
used mainly for classical
concerts, a contemporary Art
Gallery, which stages various
temporary exhibitions, and a
Museum of Natural History.
Horses on the home stretch, Royal Bangkok Sports Club
DOWNTOWN  121
q Royal Bangkok
Sports Club

Henry Dunant Rd. Map 8 D2.
@ 16, 21; AC: 141. Tel 0-2255-4158.
Open 9am–6pm alternate Sun for
races only. & ∑ rbsc.org
Considered to be Thailand’s
most exclusive social institution,
the RBSC has a waiting list to
prove it. It offers a wide range
of sports to its members –
including rugby, soccer, and
field hockey – who form some
of the top Thai teams in these
sports. Nonmembers may enter
to watch horse races at the
club, one of Thailand’s two
principal race courses; the
other is the Royal Turf Club on
Phitsanulok Road (see p110).
Gambling is virtually a
national institution in Thailand,
and the RBSC gives Bangkokians
the perfect opportunity to
indulge in one of their favorite
pastimes. On race days,
thousands of bettors from all
social classes flock to the track.
As the start of the race draws
near, betting becomes furious,
and huge electronic screens
track the odds on each horse
and the total money wagered.
Visitors are welcome to join in,
and should watch the screens
for clues as to which horse to
bet on; you may have to ask for
help to fill out one of the Thai-
language betting slips.
122  BANGKOK
The vast interior of the Siam Center, one of Thailand’s first shopping malls
w Erawan Shrine

Ratchadamri Rd. Map 8 D1.
@ AC: 501, 504, 505. £ Rachadamri,
Chit Lom, or Siam Center (skytrain).
Drivers take their hands off the
steering wheel to wai (a gesture
of respect) as they pass the
Erawan Shrine, such is the
widespread faith in the luck
that this landmark brings.
The construction of the original
Erawan Hotel in the 1950s, on
the site now occupied by the
Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, was
plagued by a series of mishaps.
In order to counteract the bad
spirits believed to be causing
the problems, this shrine
dedicated to Indra and his
elephant mount, Erawan, was
erected in front of the hotel.
Ever since, the somewhat gaudy
monument has been decked
Dancers in traditional Thai costume
performing at the Erawan Shrine
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
with garlands, carved wooden
elephants, and other offerings
in the hope of, or thanks for,
good fortune. By the shrine are
women in traditional costume.
Anyone wishing to express
gratitude for good fortune can
pay the dancers a fee, and they
will do a thankyou dance
around it.
Near the shrine, and along
Ploenchit and Sukhumvit
roads, are several of Bangkok’s
most upscale shopping
complexes (see pp142–3),
including Sogo, Siam Center,
World Trade Center, Gay Sorn
Plaza, Amarin Plaza, Le Meridien,
and the swankiest of them all,
the Siam Paragon.
e Wat Pathum
Wanaram

Rama I Rd. Map 8 D1. @ AC: 25, 501,
508. £ Siam Center (skytrain).
Open 9am–4pm daily.
The main reason for visiting
the Pathum Wanaram temple
is to see Phra Meru Mas, a
reconstruction of the crema-
torium of the late Princess
Mother. Following her cremation
at Sanam Luang (see pp82–3) in
March 1996, her remains were
transferred to these grounds in
an elaborate procession. The
crematorium is a rare example
of ancient craftmanship,
featuring ornate stencils and
lacquered sculptures. It
represents Mount Meru, the
heavenly abode of the gods.
r Siam Square

Rama I Rd. Map 7 C1. @ AC: 25, 501,
508. £ Siam (skytrain).
Street shopping is fast disap-
pearing in Bangkok as shopping
malls proliferate. The principal
exception to this phenomenon
is the network of sois (alleys)
collectively known as Siam
Square, between Chulalongkorn
University (see p121) and the
Siam Center.
The square is packed with
independent shops and stalls
selling, in particular, music,
books, accessories, and clothing –
much of it by enterprising young
Thai designers.
Rama I Road, on one side of
the square, is the showcase for
Thailand’s movie industry. Three
grand theaters – the Scala, the
Lido, and the Siam – are located
here. On the western edge of the
square, on Phaya Thai Road, is the
Mahboonkrong Center (MBK),
which houses a department store
and various shops and stalls.
Beyond it is the National Sta­
dium, Thailand’s main arena for
major soccer and other sports
events. However, the future
of the entire district looks
uncertain: it is feared that the
land may be redeveloped when
its lease expires.
t Bangkok Art and
Culture Center


939 Rama I Rd. Map 7 C1. Tel 0-2214-
6630. @ AC: 15, 16, 501, 508, 529.
£ National Stadium (skytrain).
Open 10am–9pm Tue–Sun. & for
special exhibitions and performances.
- 0 = ∑ bacc.or.th
The Bangkok Art and Culture
Center offers visitors an enjoyable
insight into Thai culture and
society. This striking 11-story
building is home to galleries,
performance spaces, and a library.
The center displays over 300
contemporary works of art by
Thai and international artists and
hosts regular exhibitions along-
side an exciting events program.

Bargain-price clothing for sale at
Pratunam Market
y Jim Thompson
House

See pp124–5.
u Pratunam

Map 4 E5. @ 12; AC: 504.
Pratunam district is worth a
brief visit. The lively and colorful
Pratunam Market is a vast maze
of stalls, stores, and workshops,
trading mostly in clothing and
fashion accessories. Just west of
the market is the Modernist
Baiyoke Tower, which reigned
briefly as the tallest building in
Bangkok from 1987 until 1995.
Despite evidence of settling in
Bangkok’s Modern Architecture
An apparently endless mass of dull concrete towers, monotonous rows of shop-houses, and gaudy mock-
classical edifices give Bangkok the overall impression of a sprawling urban jungle rather than the Oriental
One of the Baiyoke Towers, in
downtown Bangkok
DOWNTOWN  123
the surrounding ground, Age pottery, excavated from
permission was granted for tombs at Ban Chiang (see p276)
construction of the adjacent in Northeast Thailand. The
Baiyoke Tower II, which was highlight for most visitors,
completed in 1997. though, is the Lacquer Pavilion,
which was built from two
exquisite temple buildings
i Suan Pakkad
retrieved by Prince Chumbhot
Palace from Ayutthaya province.
 Immaculately crafted,
charmingly detailed black and
352 Si Ayutthaya Rd. Map 4 D4. gold lacquered murals inside
Tel 0-2245-4934. @ AC: 201, 513. £ each edifice depict scenes from
Phaya Thai (skytrain). Open 9am–4pm the Buddha’s life and the
daily. & 8 ∑ suanpakkad.com Ramakien (see pp44–5). They also
portray ordinary Thai life from
This palace, a group of five just before the fall of Ayutthaya
traditional teak houses, was
originally the home of Prince and
in 1767 (see pp64–5). These
murals are some of the only ones
Princess Chumbhot. The houses to survive from the Ayutthaya
were assembled in the 1950s period. Scenes include foreign
within a lush garden landscaped traders exchanging goods,
out of a cabbage patch – suan graphic battle scenes, and
pakkad in Thai – that gives the gruesome depictions of hell.
palace its name. Each building
has been converted into a
museum, and together they
house an impressive private
collection of art and artifacts
that once belonged to the
royal couple.
The eclectic assortment ranges
from Khmer sculpture, betel-nut
sets, and pieces of antique
lacquered furniture, to Thai
musical instruments and
exquisite shells and crystals.
More important, perhaps, is the
first-class collection of whorl- Elegant façade of the Lacquer Pavilion at
patterned red and white Bronze Suan Pakkad Palace
splendor visitors might expect.
Nonetheless, there are some modern buildings within the city that were
designed by visionary architects. Postmodern architecture of an international
standard is particularly noticeable along Sathorn Tai and Silom roads. Other
interesting buildings include the Thai Airways headquarters and the triple-
towered “Elephant Building.”
One of Bangkok’s most progressive design companies is Plan Architecture,
responsible for striking buildings such as the Baiyoke Towers I and II, the
bullet-shaped Vanit Building II on Soi Chidlom, and the narrow Thai Wah II
Tower on Sathorn Tai Road. Thailand’s most famous, and perhaps most witty,
modern landmark is probably the Bank of Asia’s head office on Sathorn Tai
Road, nicknamed the “Robot Building” (see p73).
Two sophisticated examples of Thai Modernism, both hotels, were designed
by Westerners. The roof of the Siam Inter-Continental was designed to resemble
a traditional “Mongkut” crown, and the gardens of the Sukhothai evoke the
serene waterscape of the old capital of the same name (see pp198–201).
In the 21st century, Bangkok’s skyline continues to change, with additions
such as the Siam Paragon, Central World, and many flashy apartment
buildings and chic hotels.
124  BANGKOK

y Jim Thompson House


One of the best-preserved traditional Thai houses in
Bangkok and finest museums in the country is the former
home of Jim Thompson. The entrepreneurial American
revived the art of Thai silk weaving (see pp270–71) following
its demise during World War II. His house stands in a flower- Master Bedroom
filled garden across from the ancient silk weavers’ quarter of Fine 19th-century paintings of the
Ban Khrua. In 1959 Thompson dismantled six teak houses in jataka tales line the walls of this room.
Ban Khrua and Ayutthaya province and reassembled them
here in an unconventional layout. Thompson was an avid
collector of antiquities and artworks from all over Southeast First floor
Asia. His distinguished array, which spans 14 centuries, is
attractively displayed, and left much as it was when he
mysteriously disappeared in 1967. Unlike many other
domestic museums, this feels like a lived-in home. Ground
Guest
floor
bedrooms

. Jataka Paintings
This panel, in the entrance hall, is one of
eight early 19th-century paintings in
the house showing scenes from the
Vessantara jataka (see p34). These
depict Prince Vessantara as an
incarnation of the Buddha.

. Burmese Carvings
This wooden figure of an
animist Nat spirit is among
Thompson’s extensive
collection of Burmese
images. When Buddhism
developed in Burma, it One of six
incorporated the preexisting traditional teak
worship of Nat spirits. houses

Key to Floor Plan View of the Garden

Bedrooms The terrace looks out onto the
garden, Khlong San Sap, and
Study
across to Ban Khrua.
Entrance hall
Drawing room
Dining room
Secure room
Bencharong room
Silk Pavilion
Other exhibition space

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33


Drawing Room
Situated on the right
is a 14th-century
U Thong sandstone
head of the Buddha,
while the 18th-century
carved wooden figures
in the alcoves are of
Burmese spirits.
The khlong (canal) was once
used by silk weavers, who
dried threads of silk on
poles along the banks.
Entrance
The teak houses, the oldest
dating from 1800, were
erected with some walls
reversed so that exterior
carvings now face the interior.
DOWNTOWN  125
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map 3 C5. Tel 0-2216-7368.
6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd.
Open 9am–5pm daily. & ^
8 compulsory. = 0
∑ jimthompsonhouse.com
Transport
@ 15, 48, 204; AC: 508. £
National Stadium (skytrain).
Porcelain Chamberpot
This cat, made of
Chinese porcelain, is in
one of the guest
bedrooms.
Dining Room
Beautiful blue and white Ming porcelain
adorns the walls of this room.
. Dvaravati Torso of
the Buddha
This torso, made of
limestone, is in the
garden. Dating from
the early Dvaravati
period (7th century),
it is said to be one of
the oldest surviving
Buddha images in
Southeast Asia.
Spirit house with
offerings
Who was Jim Thompson?
An architect by profession, Thailand’s most famous
American came here in 1945 as the Bangkok head of the
Office of Strategic Services (OSS), a forerunner of the
CIA. In 1948 he founded the Thai Silk Company Ltd.,
turning the ailing industry into a thriving business
once again. Thompson became a social celebrity
in Bangkok and finally achieved mythical status
following his disappearance on Easter
Sunday 1967 while walking in the Cameron
Highlands in Malaysia. Explanations for his
vanishing include falling from a path or
having a heart attack to more sinister Jim Thompson inspecting
suggestions of CIA involvement. Thai silk in 1964
 Bangkok  127

THON BURI
known originally as Ban kok (“village of the sleepier version of Bangkok proper. The
wild plum”), Thon Buri was the capital of best way to explore Thon Buri is by boat.
Thailand for 15 years between 1767 and 1782. Meandering down the intricate network of
When Rama I moved his capital across the canals, the visitor sees scenes of river life –
river its original name followed, and, though stilt houses, small temples, mansions, and
Thais refer to the capital as krung Thep, it floating shops. on khlong Bangkok noi is
remains known as Bangkok to foreigners. the Royal Barge Museum with its lavishly
Thon Buri wasn’t linked by bridge to Bangkok decorated boats. Farther south there are
until 1932 and was officially incorporated some interesting riverside wats along the
into the city only in 1971. Today this area Chao Phraya River, the most prominent
preserves a distinct identity, offering a and famous of which is Wat arun.

Sights at a Glance
Wats and Churches 7 Church of Santa Cruz Monuments
1 Wat Suwannaram 8 Wat Prayun 9 Taksin Monument
4 Wat Rakhang Museums
5 Wat Arun pp130–31
2 Royal Barge Museum
6 Wat Kanlayanimit
3 Museums at the Siriraj Hospital
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Central prang at Wat Arun, Thon Buri For keys to symbols see back flap
128  BANGKOK
Buddha in classic bhumisparsa mudra
posture, Wat Suwannaram
1 Wat Suwannaram On the south wall are the

Charan Sanit Wong Rd, Khlong
Bangkok Noi. Map 1 A3. 4 hire a
long-tail from any pier. Open daily.
Wat Suwannaram was
constructed by Rama I on the
foundations of a temple dating
from the Ayutthaya era. It was
renovated by Rama III and
finally completed in 1831.
The temple complex provides
a graceful example of early
Rattanakosin architecture
(see p39), in which a few traces
Superbly detailed 19th-century mural at Wat Suwannaram
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
of the Ayutthaya style still
linger. The well-restored murals
of the main wihan, some of the
best of the early 19th century,
are attributed to two
renowned painters of the third
reign, Luang Vichit Chetsada
and Krua Khonpae.
Western perspective had not
permeated Thai mural painting
at the time: scenes are depicted warehouse-like structure is a
as aerial views with figures
shown at the same size
whether they are in the
foreground or background.
On the side panels are depictions engaged in battles and stately
of the last 10 tales of the jataka
(the Buddha’s previous lives).
Buddhist cosmological
kingdoms, and the entrance
wall is dominated by a lively
scene of the Buddha’s victory
over Mara. Notice the hairstyles
of the third reign (1824–51):
the heads of
both sexes are
shaven to leave a
small patch of
hair at the top. Hongsa, on prow of the River, since they have been
Also, look for a king’s barge
Christian cross on
a hermit’s hut, evidence that
missionaries were active in
Thailand at the time.
2 Royal Barge
Museum

Khlong Bangkok Noi. Map 1 B3.
Tel 0-2424-0004. @ 7, 9,19.
4 hire a long-tail from Chang pier.
Open 9am–5pm daily. ^ &
Housed within a huge
collection of Thailand’s most
ostentatious boats, the royal
barges. Paintings of fabulous
Ayutthayan barges (see pp64–5)
processions, together with
archive photographs of royal
barge ceremonies in Bangkok
over the last 150 years, have
provided some of the most
splendid visions of Thailand
presented to the world via
postcards and tourist brochures.
Nowadays,
though, the
vessels are
rarely seen
cruising the Chao Phraya
housed at the museum
since 1967. The barges are
reproductions of some built 200
years ago by Rama I, who had
copied Ayutthayan originals.
In 1981 most of the royal
barges underwent an expensive
face-lift. They came out in all
their gilded glory during the
1982 Bangkok Bicentennial
celebrations (see p72), for the
King’s 60th birthday in 1987,
and for the Golden Jubilee of
his reign on November 7, 1996.
For such auspicious occasions
more than 50 barges sail in a
lengthy procession down the
Chao Phraya. Most of the 2,000
oarsmen – dressed in traditional
uniforms – are sea cadets, a
fitting crew for boats that were
once the naval fleet.
The vessel in the center of the
museum, Supphanahongsa
(“golden swan”), is the most
important royal barge. Made
from a single piece of teak, it is
over 165 ft (50 m) long and
weighs 15 tons. In action it
requires a highly trained crew of
64. The mythical, swanlike bird
Hongsa rears up from its prow.
Anantanagaraj, a barge bearing
a multiheaded naga and a
 THON BURI  129

such as the preserved figure of wihan, which were painted

Ferocious figurehead on a gun barge built
in the reign of Rama I
Buddha image, is reserved for
conveying monks’ robes. Narai
Song Suban Rama IX is the
first barge to be built during
the present king’s reign. It is
145 ft (44 m) long and can
carry 50 people.
Si-oui, a man who suffocated
and ate seven children.
Thai parents often threaten
naughty children with his
ghost. In the Congdon
Museum of Anatomy are still-
born Siamese twins. Such twins
are so named because the
famous Chan and In, who
toured the world in the mid-
19th century, were from Siam,
as Thailand was then known.
4 Wat Rakhang

Soi Wat Rakhang. Map 1 B5. @ 57,
83. 4 Chang pier to Wat Rakhang.
Open daily.
Wat Rakhang was the last major
temple to be constructed by
Rama I in the early 19th century.
The fine murals in the main
between 1922 and 1923 by
a monk Phra Wanawatwichit,
include recognizable scenes of
Bangkok. Though the capital has
changed much since then, the
Grand Palace, which stands
just across the river from Wat
Rakhang, is easy to identify.
In the murals, the palace is
shown in the middle of an
imaginary attack. There is also
an elaborate depiction of a royal
barge procession.
The raised wooden library
(ho trai) of Wat Rakhang, in the
west of the compound, was
used as a residence by Rama I
before he became king.
The building’s eave supports,
delicately carved bookcases,
and gold and black doors are
period masterpieces. Inside the
library are murals depicting
scenes from the Ramakien and
a portrait of Rama I.

3 Museums at the
Siriraj Hospital

Arun Amarin Rd. Map 1 B4. Tel 0-2419-
2618. @ 81, 91. 4 Phrannok and
Wang Lang. Open 10am–5pm Mon,
Wed–Sun. Closed public hols. ^
∑ si.mahidol.ac.th/museums

Six medical museums are

located at this hospital, of
which the Museum of Forensic
Medicine is the best known.
It houses gruesome objects, Wooden façade of the raised library at Wat Rakhang

Living on Water: the Era of the Thai Khlongs

Ayutthaya and Bangkok, both on the flood plain of the Chao Phraya River, were cities that grew along
countless little canals and streams known as khlongs. Bangkok was once a floating city. In the 1840s
all but about 10 percent of its population of 400,000 lived on the khlongs. Houses built on rafts could
be moored wherever there was space (see p41).
Stilt houses lining the banks of the khlongs provided a
somewhat more stable habitat. Although roads now cover
most of Bangkok’s eastern waterways, many still exist in
Thon Buri, where life still largely revolves around the
khlongs. Children splashing in the water are a common
sight, and early each morning waterborne vendors cruise
up and down, selling everything from Chinese pastries
and coffee to fruit, vegetables, and cooking utensils. The
favored khlong vessel today is the long-tailed powerboat –
one was memorably commandeered by Roger Moore as
James Bond in the movie The Man with the Golden Gun.
Visitors can easily charter their own from Chang pier to
explore the Thon Buri khlongs.
Bangkok in the 1890s, before the age of roads and
land-based dwellings
130  BANGKOK

5 Wat Arun

Wat Arun, named after Aruna, the Indian god of dawn, is a striking
Bangkok landmark. It owes its name to the legend that, in October
1767, King Taksin arrived here at sunrise from the sacked capital,
Ayutthaya. He soon enlarged the tiny temple that stood on the site
into a Royal Chapel to house the Emerald Buddha (see pp86–7).
Rama II and Rama III were responsible for the size of the current
temple: the main prang is 260 ft (79 m) high and the circumference
Multicolored Tiers
of its base is 768 ft (234 m). In the 19th century King Mongkut Rows of demons, decorated
(Rama IV) added the ornamentation created with broken pieces with pieces of porcelain,
of porcelain. The monument’s style, deriving mainly from Khmer line the exterior of a
architecture (see pp268–9), is unique in Thailand. minor prang.

Central Monument of Wat Arun

The monument’s design symbolizes Hindu-Buddhist
cosmology. The central prang (tower) is the mythical
Mount Meru, and its ornamental tiers are worlds
within worlds. The layout of four minor prangs
around a central one is a symbolic mandala shape.

. River View of Temple

This popular image of Wat Arun, as seen
from the Chao Phraya, appears on the One of the eight
10-baht coin and in the Tourism Authority entrances
of Thailand (TAT) logo.

Chinese Guards
These figures, at the entrances
to the terrace, complement
the Chinese-style porcelain
decorating the prangs.

KEY

1 Minor prangs at each corner

of the wat
2 Top terrace Gallery of the Bot
Elsewhere in the temple
3 Indra’s weapon, the vajra or
complex are the usual buildings
thunderbolt, at the crest
found in a wat. This image of
4 Mondops at the cardinal points the Buddha in the main bot sits
above the ashes of devotees.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 THON BURI  131

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Symbolic Levels Arun Amarin Rd. Map 5 B1.
Open 7am–5pm daily. & =
The Devaphum (top) is Transport
the peak of Mount Meru, @ 19, 57, 83. 4 Tien to
rising above four subsidiary Wat Arun.
peaks. It denotes six
heavens within seven
realms of happiness. Stairs on the Central Prang
The steep steps represent the
The Tavatimsa Heaven difficulties of reaching higher
(central section), where levels of existence. Visitors can
all desires are fulfilled, is climb halfway up when
guarded at the four restoration work allows.
cardinal points by the
Hindu god Indra.
Small Cove
The Traiphum (base) On the second level of the central prang
represents 31 realms of are many small coves, inside which are
existence across the kinnari, mythological creatures, half-bird,
three worlds (Desire, half-human.
Form, and Formless) of
the Buddhist universe.

Decoration of the Four

Minor Prangs
Inside the niches of each
minor prang are statues
of Nayu, the god of
wind, on horseback.

. Ceramic Details
Much of the colorful porcelain
decorating the prangs was donated
by local people. The flowers above
and below the “demon bears” are
said to evoke the vegetation of
Mount Meru, home of the gods.
132  BANGKOK
6 Wat Kanlayanimit

Soi Wat Kanlaya. Map 5 B2. @ 2, 8;
AC: 2 to Pak Klong Talad, then cross
the river by ferry at the pier.
Open 8:30am–4:30pm daily.
This dilapidated temple complex
is one of the five temples built
in Bangkok by Rama III (ruled
1824–51). Rama liked Chinese
design, as can be seen from the
statuary dotted around the
courtyard (brought to Thailand
as ballast on empty rice barges
returning from China) and the
Chinese-style polygonal chedi.
The complex’s immense
wihan contains a large sitting
Buddha image. In the temple
grounds is the biggest bronze
bell in Thailand.
Near the wat, on the other
side of Khlong Bangkok Yai, is
Wichai Prasit Fortress, built to
guard the river approach to
Thon Buri when Ayutthaya was
the dominant city in Thailand
(see pp64–5).
Thailand’s biggest bronze bell, in the bell
tower of Wat Kalayanimit
7 Church of
Santa Cruz

Soi Kudi Chin. Map 5 C2. @ 2, 8 to Pak
Klong Talad then cross the river by
ferry at the pier, or express boat to
Saphan Phut pier. Open 6am and 7pm
Sun (for Mass). ^ inside the church.
This pastel yellow church is one
of the most prominent reminders
of the community of Portuguese
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
Newly released turtles feeding on fruit in the pond at Wat Prayun
merchants and missionaries
who lived here in the mid-19th
century. The church was built in
the late 18th century, when Thon
Buri was the capital of Thailand
(see pp68–9). It was rebuilt by
Bishop Pallegoix in 1834, and
again in 1913. The church is
known in Thai as Wat Kuti Chin
(“Chinese monastic residence”),
from the Chinese influences in
its architecture.
Although only a few houses of
Portuguese origin remain in the
muddle of alleyways
surrounding the temple, the
Portuguese legacy can still be
seen in the private Catholic
shrines that are tucked away
among Thai shop-houses.
8 Wat Prayun

Pratchatipok Rd. Map 5 C2. @ 6, 43,
or express boat to Saphan Phut pier.
Open 7am–4:30pm daily.
The unusual artificial hill at the
entrance to this temple was
created on a whim of Rama III.
While reading by candlelight,
the king observed the
interesting wax formation of
the melting candle.
He then asked one of
his courtiers, Prayun
Bunnag, to create a
hill in the same
shape. The hill is
dotted with bizarre
shrines, miniature
chedis, prangs, Detail of King Taksin
Monument
grottoes, and tiny
temples, but is perhaps most
memorable for its ornamental
pond, filled with hundreds of
turtles. Devotees buy the turtles
nearby and then release them
into the pond. This act of setting
free confined creatures (more
commonly releasing caged
birds) is a way of gaining merit
for future lives.
The temple bot is punctuated
with doors and window shutters
decorated with mother-of-pearl.
The large chedi has a circular
cloister that is surmounted by
smaller chedis.
9 Taksin
Monument

Pratchathipok Rd. Map 5 C4.
@ 21, 40, 43, 82.
Located on the busy Wong-
wian Yai traffic circle, this
20th-century equestrian
statue commemorates King
Taksin (ruled 1767–82), who
moved the capital to Thon
Buri after the destruction of
Ayutthaya by the Burmese
in 1767.
In 1950 the commission to
design the monument was
given to Professor Silpa Bhirasri,
the Italian “father” of Thai
modern art who
took a Thai name
and citizenship. The
striking statue took
three years to
complete and was
finally unveiled in
1954. Each year, on
December 28 – the
anniversary of King
Taksin’s coronation – many Thais
come to pay homage at the
statue.
 THON BURI  133

Popular Buddhist Rituals

The act of merit-making is an essential part of religious life in Thailand (see pp34–5).
Practiced both by monks and lay people, it reflects an awareness that good deeds lead
to good outcomes, such as happiness, either in this life or the next (as a more fortunate
rebirth). To accumulate merit is a way of taking responsibility for one’s own karma
(destiny). Becoming a monk, even for a short period, or sponsoring the ordination of a
monk, is the highest form of making merit, and a devout Buddhist monk adheres to strict
rules in his daily life. In some rituals – such as the alms round – the lives of monks and
lay people interact. Other everyday habits of ordinary people focus on the local temple:
the shared act of decorating a Buddhist shrine strengthens community ties. Devout lay
people, meanwhile, may meditate and worship at a private shrine in their own home.

The daily alms round (bintabat)

takes place shortly after dawn, when
monks leave their temples to search
for their daily meal. Giving food to
monks is a popular way for lay people
to earn merit and practice generosity
(the act of dana). Monks are
permitted to eat only food that has
been offered to them, and they must
consume it before noon.

Shaving the head is a

Meditation purifies the mind ritual for monks on
and clears it of distractions. the day of the full
It is practiced regularly by all moon. This mural
monks and some lay people. shows a novice
being shaved
for ordination.

Pavilion at Wat
Phra Kaeo

Gold leaf put

on the Buddha
Offerings for the Buddha
image honors are usually symbolic. Lotus
his teachings. buds represent the purity of
the Buddha’s thoughts.
Incense sticks, in groups of three,
symbolize the Buddha, the dharma
(teachings), and the sangha (monkhood).
Candles stand for the light of
understanding.

Visits to the Wat

Many lay people in Thailand go
to their local wat at least once
a week. Typically they make
offerings to an image of the
Buddha, listen to the monks
chanting and to a dharma talk,
and receive blessings. Food is
prepared to offer to the monks
and as a communal meal. The
local community often funds
building or restoration projects.
 BANGKOK  135

FARTHER AFIELD
Many interesting sights lie outside central reptile wrestling is the major attraction,
Bangkok. Extending eastward is Sukhumvit and Safari World offers further wildlife
Road, with a plethora of shops, restaurants, encounters. Culture lovers will enjoy the
small galleries, and museums. Shopaholics art and antiques in the Prasart Museum.
will also not want to miss the superb Pleasant day trips include the green
Chatuchak Market or the spectacle of suburb of Nonthaburi and, to the west,
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, west the relaxed provincial towns of Ratchaburi
of the city. To the south and east are a and Nakhon Pathom. The latter is the site
clutch of theme and amusement parks, of the world’s tallest Buddhist monument,
including the Erawan Museum and the Phra Pathom Chedi. Another popular
Ancient City, a tranquil park with replicas excursion is west to the Thai culture
of Thai monuments. At the Crocodile Farm shows at the Sampran Riverside.

Sights at a Glance
Towns Notable Roads Zoos
1 Ratchaburi 7 Sukhumvit Road 8 Safari World
4 Nakhon Pathom
Swimming Pools w Crocodile Farm
5 Nonthaburi
9 Siam Park
Museums and Cultural Theme Parks
Markets
3 Sampran Riverside
0 Prasart Museum 2 Damnoen Saduak Floating Market
q Ancient City 6 Chatuchak Market
e Erawan Museum
Key
Main sightseeing area
Built-up area
Highway
0 kilometers 25 Major road
0 miles 25 Minor road

Ayutthaya,
Sights Outside the Center Khorat
346
305 Prachin
Pathum
1

Kanchanaburi Don Buri

Tum Thani
34

9
0
321

30
3394

04
32

Chao

32 Don Muang
3

33
31
Tha Chin

Nakhon
Ban
9

Pathom
Pong
Nonthaburi Min Buri
Phraya

4006
3119

4 304
338
3414

7
ng

Bang
K lo

Phae
3089

4
Mae

Suvarnabhumi
4

Krathum Thon Buri

3097

Baen 35
325

34
9
9

Samut
Ratchaburi
303

Prakan
Samut Chon Buri
Sakhon 3
35
4

3088

Gulf of Thailand
3093
Samut
Songkhram
35
Phetchaburi

Erawan Museum’s “Stairway to Heaven,” Samut Prakan

136  BANGKOK

Environs small wooden boats are

The caves of Khao Ngu, 4 miles paddled mainly by female
(6 km) northwest of Ratchaburi traders, some of whom are
on Highway 3087, contain some dressed in traditional blue
early Dvaravati art. The splendid farmers’ shirts – mo hom –
reliefs of Buddha images found and conical straw hats. The
in Tham Rusi and Tham Fa Tho fresh produce, including fruit,
are probably of greatest interest. vegetables, and spices, comes
Aggressive macaques gather in straight from the farm. For the
the area around the caves. benefit of the tourists, some
boats sell souvenir straw hats
and refreshments.
2 Damnoen The floating market actually
Saduak Floating consists of three markets. The
Palm-shaded Wat Mahathat, the main sight Market largest, Ton Khem, is on Khlong
at Ratchaburi Damnoen Saduak. On the
 parallel khlong is Hia Kui,
1 Ratchaburi 1 mile (2 km) W of Damnoen Saduak,
where structures anchored
to the banks function as
 Ratchaburi province. £@
warehouses selling souvenirs
4 or join tour from Bangkok.
Ratchaburi province. * 195,977. £ Open 4–11am daily. n TAT, to large tour groups. To the
@ n TAT, Phetchaburi(0-3247-1005). Phetchaburi (0-3247-1005). south, on a smaller khlong,
is Khun Phitak, which is the
Originally an estuarial port at Like the numerous floating least crowded market.
the mouth of the Klong River, markets in Bangkok, the The best way of getting
Ratchaburi is now 19 miles Damnoen Saduak market around the three markets is
(30 km) from the ocean. is also organized almost by boat: trips can be taken
During the Ayutthaya period exclusively for tourists. along the khlongs or to see
(see pp64–5) the town was sacked Located near Damnoen nearby coconut plantations.
twice, in 1765 and 1767, by Saduak – 62 miles (100 km) The best time to arrive is
invading Burmese armies en southwest of Bangkok – between 7am and 9am,
route to besiege the capital city the market is a labyrinth of when the Floating Market
of Ayutthaya. narrow khlongs (canals). The is in full swing.
Nowadays, Ratchaburi makes
a pleasant place to stop on the
way to Kanchanaburi and the
Western Seaboard. Some visitors
stay overnight if visiting
Damnoen Saduak Floating
Market the next morning.
The town has few sights, but
Wat Mahathat is worth a visit.
Its prang, allegedly modeled on
the main prang at Angkor Wat
(see pp268–9), dates from the
15th century, although the
temple complex may have been
founded as early as the 8th or
9th century. Inside the prang
are traces of murals from the
15th century, and partially
restored stucco work.
Artifacts in the Ratchaburi
National Museum include
archaeological finds such as fine
Khmer sculptures and stucco
decorations excavated from
Muang Khu Bua, a Dvaravati
site south of Ratchaburi.
E Ratchaburi National Museum
Woradej Rd. Tel 0-3232-1513.
Open 9am–4pm Wed–Sat.
Closed public hols. &
∑ nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th Trading Thai-style at the bustling Damnoen Saduak Floating Market
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 FA R T H E R A F I E L D  137

Thai Fruits and Vegetables

Thailand’s climate and soil conditions are conducive to the cultivation of a huge
variety of fruits and vegetables throughout the year. Well-known tropical fruits,
including papaya, watermelon, mango, and pineapple, are unmistakable, but the
orchards and farms of Thailand also offer a wealth of produce that may be less
familiar to many visitors. Among the not-to-be-missed treats are the mangosteen,
the grapefruitlike pomelo, the much-prized durian, and the sweet-fleshed, hairy
rambutan. Thai fruits are sold sliced as snacks by street vendors everywhere, and
the full range of fresh produce can be seen at most markets.

Longans have a
transparent, succulent
flesh around a smooth pit.

Mangoes can be eaten

unripe and sour (green) or
ripe and sweet (yellow).

Guavas, crisp
Mangosteens are and sour fruits,
a favorite with Thais. Durians are the king of are best enjoyed Jackfruits, similar in
Their tasty flesh Thai fruit. The pungent with a sweet appearance to durians,
has a melt-in-the- smell and flavor are an chili dip or as a only larger, have a sticky
mouth texture. acquired taste. refreshing juice. flesh with a tangy flavor.

Gourds Scallions
Pea eggplant
Cilantro

Chilies
Baby Eggplant
tomatoes Thai cuisine makes liberal use of chilies,
galingal, tamarind, and lemon grass to
Thai vegetables include several types of makhua flavor dishes, balancing spiciness with
(the tomato and eggplant family). Gourds and coconut milk and sugar. Cilantro and
eggplant are frequently used in curries. scallions are popular garnishes.
138  BANGKOK
The peaceful, immaculately maintained
Sampran Riverside
3 Sampran Riverside
 
Off Hwy 4, 20 miles (32 km) W of
Bangkok. Tel 0-3432-2544.
@ M: 15; AC: to Nakom Pathom
or Suphan Buri, or tour from Bangkok.
Open 8am–6pm daily (shows 1:30pm
& 2:45pm). &
∑ sampranriverside.com
This well-manicured garden,
west of Bangkok, was formerly
known as the Rose Garden
Riverside. Here visitors can
walk or cycle through the lush
greenery, take a boat ride on
the river, swim and even play
tennis. A tour of the Organic
Farm offers visitors a chance
to learn about traditional Thai
farming methods and buy
some of the produce.
However, the chief attraction
for visitors is the daily show
of culture. Packed into the
one-hour show are traditional
Thai dancing (see pp46–7),
ancient sword fighting, a
Thai wedding, the ordination
of a monk (see p34) and Thai
boxing (see pp48–9). The
model Thai village within
the grounds is a showcase
for fruit-carving, basket
weaving, and other crafts.
Environs
Farther west, on the way to
Nakhon Pathom, the Thai
Human Imagery Museum has
fiberglass statues of historical
Thai figures, including the
Chakri kings (see pp68–9)
and some renowned monks.
E Thai Human Imagery Museum
Pinklao-Nakhonchaisri Hwy, km 31.
Tel 0-3433-2607. Open daily. &
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
4 Nakhon Pathom

Nakhon Pathom province. *
167,500. £ @ n TAT, Bangkok
(0-2250-5500), TAT, Kanchanaburi
(0-3451-1200). ( daily. _ Food
and Fruit Fair (Sep 1–7); Phra Pathom
Chedi Fair (Nov).
Some 42 miles (67 km) to the
west of Bangkok, Nakhon
Pathom was a major center of
the Dvaravati Kingdom, which
thrived from the 6th to the
11th centuries AD (see pp60–61).
The highlight of the town is
the Phra Pathom Chedi, on
Phetkasem Highway. This huge
monument, housing a large
standing Buddha image, is one
of the most important places of
pilgrimage in Thailand. The
original stupa (a non-Thai chedi)
on this site is thought to have
been built sometime between
the 2nd century BC and the 5th
century AD. It commemorated
the first Buddhist missionaries in
Thailand, allegedly sent here
from India in the 3rd century
BC. The building fell into decay
in the 11th century and was
not restored until the early
19th century, when King
Nakhon Pathom’s chedi, the world’s tallest Buddhist monument
Mongkut had the old shrine
encased in a chedi. The spire
was completed by King Chula-
longkorn. The chedi dominates
the town and, at 395 ft (120 m)
in height, is the tallest Buddhist
stupa in the world.
Southeast of the chedi is the
Phra Pathom Chedi National
Museum, which has a
fascinating collection of locally
excavated pieces from the
Dvaravati period, including
the stone Wheels of the Law
23 els from Chedi Chula
Prathon, a 7th to 8th century
monument east of town.
West of the chedi is the early
20th-century Sanam Chandra
Palace. Parts of the palace are
open to the public, and the
peaceful grounds are a good
place from which to view the
palace’s unusual mix of
architectural styles.
E Phra Pathom Chedi
National Museum
Khwa Phra Rd. Tel 0-3427-0300.
Open Wed–Sun.
Closed public hols. &
E Sanam Chandra Palace
Off Phetkasem Hwy. Tel 0-3427-0222.
Open Tue–Sun. &

Nonthaburi pier, as seen from the Chao Phraya River
5 Nonthaburi

Nonthaburi province. * 46,500. £
@ 4 n TAT, Bangkok (1672); TAT,
Ayutthaya (0-3524-6076). ( daily.
_ Fruit Fair (Apr–Jun).
Approximately 6 miles
(10 km) north of
Bangkok, Nonthaburi
offers a relaxing slice
of provincial life. The
town is best reached
by riverboat from one
of Bangkok’s express
piers. The journey
takes 50 minutes
and offers several
interesting sights, the
first of which is the
Royal Boat House near Door of bot, Wat
Wat Sam Phraya pier, Chalerm Phrakiet
where some of the
royal barges are kept. Others
are housed at the Royal Barge
Museum in Thon Buri (see
pp128–9). Past the Krung Thon
Bridge is a small community of
rice barges on the east bank,
and shortly before Nonthaburi
pier is Wat Khian, a temple that
is half-submerged in the river.
Nonthaburi has a pleasant,
provincial atmosphere that
contrasts with the chaos and
pollution of the capital just
down the river. The town is
particularly well known for the
quality of its durian fruit (see
p137) – reflected in the unusual
decoration of the lampposts
on the promenade. You may
find the famously smelly fruit
for sale in Nonthaburi’s colorful,
lively market by the side of the
river. A round-trip boat ride
FA R T H E R A F I E L D  139
6 Chatuchak
Market

Chatuchak district. @ AC: 38, 502,
503, 509, 510, 512, 517, 518, 521, 523.
q Kampangphet. £ Mo Chit
(skytrain). n TAT, Bangkok (1672).
Open 7am–6pm Sat & Sun.
∑chatuchak.org
Thailand’s biggest market is
staged each weekend in a
northern suburb of Bangkok,
between the Northern Bus
Terminal and Bangsu Railroad
Station. It moved here in 1982
from Nonthaburi along Khlong because it had outgrown its
Om will take you on a slow- original site on Sanam Luang
paced journey through durian (see pp82–3). This chaotic mass
plantations and past riverside of more than 15,000 stalls
houses. The tiny river island of occupies the space of over five
Ko Kret, accessible only by football fields. It is always full of
boat, is home to a community throngs of eager shoppers,
of craftsmen, who are famous many of whom spend a whole
for their distinctive day browsing among the
style of pottery. merchandise displays.
Another worthwhile The huge variety of goods for
excursion from sale ranges from seafood to
Nonthaburi is the antiques, and from Siamese
river journey to Wat fighting fish to secondhand
Chalerm Phrakiet, on jeans. The plant section offers a
the west bank of the good introduction to Thai flora,
Chao Phraya. The wat while the food stalls display
occupies the site of a every conceivable ingredient of
17th-century fortress, Thai food, fresh from the farm or
built by Rama III in the sea. The antique and hill-
the 19th century tribe sections sell a good
for his mother. selection of artifacts and
A particularly striking textiles, both fake and genuine,
feature is the from all over Thailand and
intricate detailing, including neighboring countries.
porcelain tilework, on the The market has been referred
doors, gables, and window to as the “wildlife supermarket
frames of the bot. Behind is a of the world,” due to the sale
chedi, added by Rama IV. The of some endangered species
grounds have Chinese-style here, such as leaf monkeys.
wooden statues, including Despite efforts to stop this,
one of Santa Claus. it is still continuing.
Traditional Thai wooden figures for sale at Chatuchak Market
140  BANGKOK
7 Sukhumvit Road

Phra Khanong district. £ @ AC: 38,
501, 508, 511, 513.
This road begins at the eastern
end of Bangkok’s downtown
and continues all the way to
the Cambodian border in Trat
province (see p327). In Bangkok
it is the main thoroughfare of
an expanding business quarter
popular with foreigners.
Though it is a long way from
Bangkok’s best-known sights,
the area has numerous good
quality, moderately priced
hotels and restaurants, and a
few attractions of its own.
Foremost of these is the Siam grounds is a reference library on Tel 0-2914-4100. @ 60, 71 & AC: 501
Society, which was founded in
the early 1900s (by a group of
Thais and foreign
residents under the
patronage of Rama VI)
to research,
rediscover, and
preserve Thai culture.
Within the grounds
are two traditional
teakwood Northern
Thai houses that
comprise the
country’s only
genuine ethnological
museum. The
Kamthieng House,
a farm dwelling, was
transported piece by piece in
the 1960s to Bangkok from the
bank of the Ping River, near
Chiang Mai. The Sangaroon
House is a later addition
donated by the architect
Sangaroon Ratagasikorn who –
inspired by the utilitarian
A mockup of a traditional sleeping area
in the Kamthieng House
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
Bangkok’s Mass Transit System along busy Sukhumvit Road
beauty of rural utensils – 8 Safari World
amassed a sizable collection. 
It is a good example of Central
Plains style (see p40). Also on the 99 Panyaintra Road, Minburi district.
Thai culture, open to visitors. to Fashion Island Center, then
The Journal of the Siam Society songthaew. Open 9am–5pm daily.
is one of Asia’s & ∑ safariworld.com
most respected
publications This car-safari park offers eight
on art history, different natural habitats over a
culture, and society. 3-mile (5-km) drive. Animals on
Located next to view include tigers, elephants,
the Eastern Bus giraffes, lions, zebras, and rare
Terminal, the species such as white pandas.
Bangkok Planetar­ A marine park features dolphin
ium, with its hands- shows. There are also elephant
on exhibitions, may and orangutan shows, and a
be of some interest bird park.
to those people
Sculpture at the who have time to
Queen’s Park spare while waiting 9 Siam Park
for a bus. 
The Queen’s Park (or
Benjasiri Park) is between sois 203 Suan Siam Road, Khan Na Yao
22 and 24, while the larger district. Tel 0-2919-7200. @ AC: 519.
King Rama IX Park is farther Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm
out toward Samut Prakan. With Sat, Sun & public hols.
its botanical gardens and area & ∑ siamparkcity.com
for water sports, this park is one
of Bangkok’s most pleasant Siam Park is a great place to cool
oases. The park also has an off from the heat of the Thai sun.
exhibition on the king’s life. Its attractions include huge
waterslides, a gentle whirlpool,
E Siam Society and an artificial lake. Water
131 Soi Asoke, Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 21. permeates Thai culture in many
Tel 0-2661-6470. Open Tue–Sat. ways, not least at Songkran (New
∑ siam­society.org Year), when everyone gets soaked
E Bangkok Planetarium on the streets (see p52 and p240).
928 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel 0-2392-1773. The facilities are well
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. maintained, and there are
& ∑ sciplanet.org restaurants and lifeguards. There
Y Queen’s Park
is also an amusement park with
By Soi 22, Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily.
rickety fairground rides and a
small zoo. As Bangkok families
Y King Rama IX Park descend upon the park in
Soi Udomsuk, Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 103. numbers at the weekend, it’s
Tel 0-2328-1385. Open daily. & 0 best to visit during the week.

0 Prasart Museum

9 Soi Krungthepkretha 4a, Bang Kapi
district. Tel 0-2379-3601. @ M: 10.
Open Tue–Sun. & ^ 8
compulsory (book in advance).
The privately owned Prasart
Museum is known to relatively
few tourists and Bangkokians,
but the journey out to this
elegant museum, set in
landscaped tropical gardens,
will be worthwhile for anyone
who loves Thai art. The collector,
Prasart Vongsakul, started to
acquire Thai antiques in 1965
when he was only 12 years old.
Ornate interior of Lanna Pavilion at the
Prasart Museum
q Ancient City

Sukhumvit Rd, Bangpu, Samut Prakan
province. Tel 0-2709-1644. @ AC: 511
to the end of the line, then take the 36
mini-bus. Open 8am–5pm daily. &
0 ∑ ancientcitygroup.com
Muang Boran, or “Ancient City,”
is an outdoor cultural theme
park financed and created in
the early 1970s by the art-
loving philanthropic owner of
Thailand’s largest Mercedes-
Benz dealership.
The park makes a surprisingly
worthwhile visit. The peaceful
grounds, shaped roughly
like Thailand itself, display
numerous replicas of important
monuments in Thailand as
well as actual buildings and
sculptures that have been
restored to their former grandeur.
Replicas are one third real size.
FA R T H E R A F I E L D
All the Thai art periods are
represented, including a few
mythical and literary ones
such as at the Garden of
Phra Aphaimani, inspired by a
19th-century verse play (see
p322). Some of the buildings –
for example the Sanphet Prasat
Palace, which once stood
near Wat Phra Si Sanphet in
Ayutthaya (see pp182–3) – are
reconstructions of monuments
destroyed centuries ago in
battle and so provide the only
testaments to past glories.
w Crocodile Farm

Old Sukhumvit Highway, Samut
Prakan province. Tel 0-2387-0020.
@ AC: 511 to Samut Prakan, then
songthaew, or join tour from Bangkok.
Open 8am–6pm daily. &
The largest of Thailand’s
(and, supposedly, the world’s)
crocodile farms, this breeding
park/zoo is home to some
30,000 reptiles. Fresh- and
saltwater species, from South
American caimans to crocodiles
from the Nile, can be seen here.
In the breeding section you
can see crocodiles hatching
and in various stages of growth.
You can also see them
transformed into handbags
and key rings in the souvenir
shop. Wrestling shows are
held regularly, and feeding
time happens at 4:30–5:30pm.
A visit to the crocodile farm
is popularly combined with
a day trip to the Ancient City.
Reconstruction of the Prince of Lampang’s Palace, Ancient City
 141
Wrestling, the most spectacular show
at the Crocodile Farm
e Erawan Museum

99/9 Moo 1, Bangmuangmai Samut
Prakan province. Tel 0-2371-3135.
@ 25, 142, 365; AC: 102, 507, 511, 536.
Open 8am–5pm daily. &
∑ erawan-museum.com
A monumental three-headed
bronze elephant stands astride
the Erawan Museum, making
it visible for miles around.
Inside is a large collection
of ancient religious objects,
including a number of priceless
Buddha statues.
The exterior of the building’s
lower story is decorated with
tiny pink enamel tiles in the
style of Thai Benjaron ceramics.
An elaborate double staircase,
which takes you up inside
the body of the elephant,
dominates the upper levels.
There is also an elevator that
travels up one of the hind legs.
Outside, the tranquil gardens
contain ponds and fountains
in a variety of styles.
142  BANGKOK

SHOPPING IN BANGKOK
Bangkok is a veritable shoppers’ paradise,
with its profusion of retail outlets, high quality
of goods, and surprisingly low prices. Staff in
department stores are super-attentive –
some might say overly so – and whether it’s
designer clothes, traditional crafts, or electronic
equipment you’re after, there are some great
deals to be had. Don’t miss the fun of
bargaining in the open-air markets, where
vendors will often drop their prices by
30 percent or more. Beware of the energy-
sapping heat and humidity of mid-afternoon,
and limit your buying spree to one or two
locations per day.

(see p139), said to be the world’s

Crowds thronging Mahboonkrong shopping mall
Practical Information
Opening hours are usually early
morning to mid-afternoon in
fresh markets, 10am–10pm in
shopping malls, and 24 hours in
convenience stores. Credit cards
are accepted in shopping malls
and modern boutiques, but
market vendors expect cash
payment. VAT refunds are
available, but the shop where
the item is bought must fill out
a form for customs, which can
be time-consuming, so it is only
worth it for significant savings.
Bargaining is expected at street
stalls and markets, but prices
are fixed in department stores
and boutiques. For more
information, see page 434.
Shopping Districts
Boutiques and markets are
scattered all over the city, but
an especially high concentration
of shopping outlets can be
found around Siam Square
and Silom, Ploenchit, and
Sukhumvit roads.
Shopping Malls
CentralWorld leads the way in
the race to be Bangkok’s best
and biggest mall; indeed, this
is Southeast Asia’s largest
shopping complex. Another
favourite shopping destination
is Siam Paragon, where you
can buy anything from a sports
car to a bowl of noodles.
Mahboonkrong (or MBK) feels
more like a street market
spread over eight floors. Other
centrally located malls are Siam
Center and Siam Discovery,
Emporium, Silom Complex,
Amarin Plaza, Gaysorn Plaza,
and Erawan.
Markets
No self-respecting shopaholic
can claim to know Bangkok
without having experienced the
city’s vast Chatuchak Market
A stall at Chatuchak Market, the country’s
biggest open-air market
largest open-air market. Pick
up a map and be selective,
since you’ll never get round
it all in a day.
Bangkok’s night markets in
the Khao San, Patpong, and
Sukhumvit Sois 3–15 regions,
which consist of simple stalls
set up each evening on the
sidewalk, make it possible to
combine souvenir shopping
with dining and clubbing in
case you’re pushed for time.
Jim Thompson, one of the most reputable
outlets for silk products
Silk and Cotton
Thai silk is renowned for its high
quality, unique designs, and
reasonable price. Be aware that
in the night markets, some
items that claim to be silk are,
in fact, made of synthetic fabric.
To be sure you’re getting the
real thing, it pays to visit a
reputable shop, such as Jim
Thompson, which has outlets
in many top hotels. If you know
what you’re looking for, head for
Phahurat Market, where prices
are cheaper.
Thai cotton is also a good
deal. The eye-catching designs
on items like bedspreads and
cushion covers make it a
distinctive souvenir.
 SHOPPING IN BANGKOK  143

Clothes Thai Crafts often exposed to sophisticated

With prices only a fraction
of what they are in the West,
it makes sense to stock up
on clothes, either off the peg
in shopping malls or tailor-
made to order. Tailors abound
in all tourist areas, but work-
manship varies, so visit a
reputable tailor such as
Raja’s Fashions or Marzotto,
and allow several days for
preparation and fittings.
Antiques
Examples of ancient crafts
are available in many shops,
but few of these are genuine
antiques, for which a permit
from the Fine Arts Department
is required for export. A couple
of reliable outlets are the River
City Complex, which has four
floors of antique furniture,
carvings, and old maps, and
OP Place, with rare collectibles
like sculptures and prints.
From silverware to celadon,
from lacquerware to
woodcarvings, from basketware
to hand-woven textiles, the
variety of Thai crafts is rich
indeed. Good places to see a
wide range of crafts include
Chatuchak Market (see p139),
Narai Phand, Silom Village, and
Nandakwang.
Hand-painted umbrellas can be found in
many craft centers
Gems and Jewelry
As with antiques, extreme
caution should be exercised
when buying gems or jewelry,
since potential customers are
scams. Serious shoppers should
browse the glittering displays of
jewelry at Peninsula Plaza or
the gem boutiques at
reliable hotels.
Electronic Goods
Computer equipment, video
games, cameras, and mobile
phones are on sale in shopping
malls throughout the city, but
one place that specializes in
such goods is Pantip Plaza.
Customers should be aware
that some items on sale, such as
software, are pirated and offer
no money-back guarantee.
Books
Book addicts should explore
the massive selection at Asia
Books and Kinokuniya Books.
Other bookstore chains with
outlets in central Bangkok are
B2S and Bookazine.

DIRECTORY
Shopping Malls Siam Center/Siam Raja’s Fashions Gems and
Discovery Sukhumvit Rd, between Jewelry
Amarin Plaza Soi 6 & Soi 8.
Rama I Rd. Map 7 C1.
Ploenchit Rd. Map 8 D1. Tel 0-2253-8379. Peninsula Plaza
Tel 0-2658-1000.
Tel 0-2650-4704. Ratchadamri Rd.
∑ siamcenter.co.th
∑ amarinplaza.com Antiques Map 8 D1.
Siam Paragon Tel 0-2253-9791.
CentralWorld OP Place
Rama I Rd. Map 7 C1.
Ratchadamri Rd.
Tel 0-2610-8000.
Charoen Krung Rd, Electronic Goods
Map 8 D1. Soi 38 (near Mandarin
∑ siamparagon.co.th Pantip Plaza
Tel 0-2793-7400. Oriental Hotel).
∑ centralworld.co.th Silom Complex Map 6 F4. Petchburi Rd. Map 4 D5.
Tel 0-2250-1555.
Silom Rd. Map 8 D4. River City Complex
Emporium ∑ pantipplaza.com
Tel 0-2632-1199. 23 Trok Rongnamkaeng
Sukhumvit Soi 24–26.
∑ silomcomplex.net Yotha Rd. Map 6 F3. Books
Tel 0-2269-1000.
∑ emporiumthailand. Tel 0-2237-0077.
Silk and Cotton ∑ rivercity.co.th Asia Books
com
Siam Discovery Mall.
Erawan Jim Thompson Thai Crafts Tel 0-2715-9000.
Ploenchit Rd. Map 8 D1. 9 Surawong Rd. ∑ asiabooks.com
Map 7 C3. Nandakwang
Tel 0-2250-7777.
Tel 0-2632-8100. Sukhumvit Soi 23. B2S
∑ erawanbangkok.com
Tel 0-2664-0017. CentralWorld,
Gaysorn Plaza Phahurat Market ∑ nandakwang.com Ratchadamri Rd.
Ploenchit Rd. Map 8 D1. Phahurat. Map 6 D1. Map 8 D1.
Narai Phand
Tel 0-2656-1149. 973 Ploenchit Rd. Bookazine
∑ gaysornplaza.com Clothes
Map 8 D1. Silom Complex, Silom Rd.
Mahboonkrong Marzotto Tel 0-2656-0398. Map 8 D4.
(MBK) 3 Soi Shangri-La Hotel, Silom Village Kinokuniya Books
Phayathai Rd. Map 7 C1. Charoen Krung Rd. Silom Rd. Map 7 A4. Siam Paragon
Tel 0-2217-9111. Map 6 F5. Tel 0-2234-4448. (also in Emporium and
∑ mbk-center.co.th Tel 0-2233-2880. ∑ silomvillage.co.th CentralWorld). Map 7 C1.
144  SHOPPING IN BANGKOK

Bangkok’s Markets
Markets are a fundamental part of Bangkok life.
Both specialty and general markets provide great
browsing, whether you are interested in flowers or
fabrics, sarongs or stamps. Do not try to take in too
many markets in one outing – focus on one area
and explore that in depth. Nancy Chandler’s
Map of Bangkok, readily available locally, Banglamphu
can be a great help in planning a Market is a typical
neighborhood
market sortie.
market with general
stalls displaying food,
shoes, clothes, and
assorted bric-a-brac.

BO
RO
M
M
A
RA
JC
H
O
N
N
Khao San Road Market may take up PH RA NN OK EE
only one tiny road, but it has become
a legend among backpackers as a
source of almost anything imaginable. OLD CITY
In addition to rucksacks, hiking boots,
and other travelers’ equipment, it is
good for secondhand books, jewelry,
clothes, bags, and pirated DVDs. THON
BURI

Pak Khlong Market

(see p102) is the most lively and Cha
atmospheric wholesale fresh o
produce market in the capital.
Open 24 hours a day, it is best
OK

viewed – and cheapest –

T H IP

between 10pm and 5am,

CHA

when exotic blooms line the

PRA

pavements along with fruit

and vegetables.

0 meters 500

0 yards 500

Key to Market Locations in

Bangkok
1 Thewet Flower Market 7 Phahurat Market
2 Banglamphu Market 8 Pak Khlong Market
3 Khao San Road Market 9 Sampeng Lane Market
4 Bo Be Market 0 Kao Market Phahurat Market (see p102) is the commercial
5 Nakorn Kasem q Pratunam Market hub of Bangkok’s Indian community. Fabric
(Thieves’ Market) w Patpong/Silom Market sellers and tailors predominate, and the air is
6 Stamp Market e Bangrak Market filled with the aroma of Indian food and spices.
 MARKETS IN BANGKOK  145

Nakorn Kasem (see p102),

otherwise known as the Thieves’
Market, in Chinatown was once
a focus for stolen goods. Today,
Thewet Flower Market it is a good place to pick up pots
(see p108), located in a and pans, antiques, ceramics,
sedate backwater of the and furniture. Hard bargaining
city, offers a riotously and a sharp eye for spotting
colorful spectacle of fakes is recommended.
flowers and plants from
all over Thailand.

Bo Be Market,
on the corner of Krung
Kasem and Lan Luang roads,
is one of the city’s main cloth
markets and a good source
of Chinese silk.
EN
MS
SA

V
MA
RA

Sampeng Lane Market (Soi Wanit), in a

DUSIT former red-light district, has bargain-
PH priced quality fabrics, toys, household
IT
SA
N
goods, Chinese decorative items,
U and stationery.
LO
K

Pratunam Market
PET
CH
(see p123) occupies a
LAN LUANG AB
UR
I
maze of covered stalls.
It is particularly good for
cheap Indian fabrics and
sewing accessories, and
it also has general
domestic items.
RA M A
CHINATOWN I
Kao Market, (see pp100–101)
DOWNTOWN between Yaowarat Road
and Sampeng Lane, has
been supplying the Chinese
community with traditional
ceremonial and decorative
Phra
ya items – from lanterns to paper
RA models for cremations – for
MA
IV more than 200 years.

Patpong/Silom Market
(see pp119–20) is a neon-lit jumble
of stalls displaying cheap souvenirs
and fake goods. Stalls on Silom Road
have fashionable clothes.

The Stamp Market is held every Sunday

outside the General Post Office on Charoen
Krung Road. Thailand has long been
issuing fine stamp designs, collected
by philatelists around the world.

Bangrak Market (see p119)

is a small but thriving local bazaar.
Many of the top hotels buy their
fruit, vegetables, meat, and seafood
from here. The market also has
fabric and clothes stands.
146  BANGKOK

ENTERTAINMENT IN BANGKOK
Bangkok provides a bewildering range of
entertainment, from classical puppet theater
to nightclubs. One of the most popular
choices for short-stay visitors is a cultural
show accompanied by a Thai meal, but
there are plenty of alternatives, such as
transvestite cabaret shows or an unusual
cocktail at one of the city’s bars with a view.
Many restaurants and bars feature live music,
ranging from traditional Thai ballads to rock
classics, while the city’s discos provide a
melting pot in which locals and foreigners
discover mutual tastes. If you are going to
any event that starts at a particular time, be
sure to plan your journey well in advance to
beat Bangkok’s notorious traffic.

outcome of the matches,

and cheer excitedly for their
chosen fighter.
At Ratchadamnoen
Stadium and Lumphini
Stadium, you can watch the
boxers prepare for their bouts
with slow, mindful movements
to the accompaniment of
wailing instruments.

Thai women in traditional dress dancing at Siam Niramit
General Information
For information about
upcoming events, consult the
English-language newspapers
Bangkok Post and The Nation,
or pick up one of the free
magazines, like BK, that are
distributed at tourist locations.
Tickets for events are usually
easy to come by: ask at your
hotel desk or at any travel
agent, or book online at www.
thaiticketmaster.com. For more
information, see p442.
Cultural Shows and
Theater
If you’re in the mood for a
cultural extravaganza, then
book for the nightly show at
Siam Niramit, which features
spectacular sets and more
than 500 elaborately dressed
performers. Classical dance
shows with buffet or à la
carte dinners can be enjoyed
at Sala Rim Nam and Silom
Village, while the city’s top
cabaret location is Calypso
Cabaret in Asiatique, an
entertainment venue south
of the city center. For perfor-
mances of khon, or classical
masked drama, head for the Sala
Chalermkrung Theatre or the
National Theatre.
In addition to famous Thai
puppetry, the Aksra Theatre’s
performances include scenes
from the classic Ramakien
masked dance drama, as well as
other traditional Thai dance.
Muay Thai
Those who prefer visceral
rather than intellectual
entertainment should head
to the local Thai boxing ring
to view this traditional martial
art. Thai boxing, or muay thai, is
the national sport, and bouts
always draw a large crowd.
Spectators like to bet on the
The colorful foyer of the Major Cineplex in CentralWorld
Cinemas
It may seem strange to travel
all the way to Thailand and end
up going to the cinema, but
with their air-conditioned
interiors, comfortable seats,
and cheap prices, they can
make the perfect antidote
to a tiring shopping spree.
Most cinemas these days are
located in shopping malls,
such as the Paragon Cineplex
in Siam Paragon and the
Major Cineplex in CentralWorld
Plaza, though a few
independent cinemas still exist,
such as the Scala and Lido in
Siam Square, which occasionally
show arthouse or independent
films. The Thai national anthem
is played before every showing,
and everybody is expected to
stand, including foreign visitors.
The website www. movieseer.
com has details of what films
are showing.
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N B A N G K O K  147

live bands in an effort to draw Soi 4), and Soi Cowboy

The crowded bar and dancefloor at the
popular Q Bar, Bangkok
Bars and Nightclubs
Bangkok has an astonishing
range of bars, from the hole-in-
the-wall Adhere the 13th, with
an in-house band playing funky
music, to the super-chic Sky
Bar, where the city’s high-flyers
sip cocktails and gaze down
on their domain from the 63rd
floor. Competition for custom
is fierce, and many bars feature
in the crowds – for example, (Sukhumvit Soi 21–23).
Saxophone offers a heady Many are curious to drop
mix of jazz, blues, and reggae, into one of these bars, but it’s
while Hard Rock Café has best to avoid the upstairs
bands playing covers of rock bars on Patpong, where
classics. Visitors itching to scams often leave foreign
shake their stuff at a disco visitors with an empty wallet.
are also catered for at venues
like Sugar Club, Q Bar, Ku De
Ta, and at the gay nightclub
DJ Station. Sophisticated
travelers looking for an elegant
environment should make their
way to Diplomat Bar, Moon
Bar, or Syn Bar.
Bangkok has long been
known for its tolerance of a
wide variety of sexual tastes,
and Silom Sois 2 and 4 are
lined with gay bars, such as
Telephone Pub. The three
main areas of hostess and
go-go bars are the infamous
Patpong 1 and 2 (off Silom The neon lights of Soi Cowboy, one of
Road), Nana Plaza (Sukhumvit Bangkok’s red-light districts

DIRECTORY
Cultural Shows Silom Village Scala Q Bar
and Theater Silom Rd. Siam Square. Sukhumvit Soi 11.
Map 7 A4. Map 7 C1. Tel 0-2252-3274.
Aksra Theatre Tel 0-2251-2861.
Saxophone
Tel 0-2234-4448.
Rangnam Rd. 3/8 Victory Monument.
∑ silomvillage.co.th Bars and
Map 4 E4. Map 4 E3.
Nightclubs Tel 0-2246-5472.
Tel 1-2677-8888. Muay Thai
Adhere the 13th Sky Bar
Calypso Cabaret Lumphini Stadium 13 Samsen Rd. Map 2 D3. 63rd Floor, State Tower,
Asiatique, 2194
6 Ramintra Rd. Tel 08-9769-4613. Silom Rd.
Charoenkrung.
Tel 0-2284-3141. Diplomat Bar Map 7 A5.
Tel 0-2688-1415. Tel 0-2624-9999.
∑ muaythailumpinee. Conrad Hotel, Wireless Rd.
∑ calypso cabaret.com ∑ lebua.com
net Map 8 E2.
National Theatre Tel 0-2690-9999. Sugar Club
Ratchadamnoen
Rachinee Rd. Map 1 C4. Stadium DJ Station 37 Sukhumvit 11.
Tel 0-2224-1342. Silom Soi 2. Tel 08-2308-2346.
Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd.
Map 2 F4. Map 7 C4. Syn Bar
Sala Chalermkrung
Tel 0-2281-4205. Tel 0-2266-4029. Swissotel Nai Lert Park,
Theatre ∑ djstation.com
∑ rajadamnern.com Wireless Rd.
Charoen Krung Rd. Map 8 E1.
Hard Rock Café
Map 6 D1. Tel 0-2253-0123.
Cinemas Siam Square.
Tel 0-2222-0434. Map 7 C1. Telephone Pub
Lido Tel 0-2251-0797. Silom Soi 4.
Sala Rim Nam
Siam Square. Map 7 C1. ∑ hardrockcafe.co.th Map 7 C4.
Oriental Hotel,
Tel 0-2252-6498. Tel 0-2234-3279.
48 Oriental Avenue. Ku De Ta
∑ telephonepub.com
Map 6 F4. Major Cineplex 98 North Sathorn Rd.
Tel 0-2659-9000. 1121/39 Sukhumvit. Map 7 C4.
Tel 0-2108-2000.
Tel 0-2381-4855.
Siam Niramit
Moon Bar
Ratchada Theatre, 19 Tiam Paragon Cineplex Banyan Tree Hotel,
Ruammit Rd. Siam Paragon, Rama I Rd. South Sathorn Rd.
Tel 0-2649-9222. Map 7 C1. Map 8 D4.
∑ siamniramit.com Tel 0-2129-4635. Tel 0-2679-1200.
148  BANGKOK STREET FINDER

BANGKOK STREET FINDER

Finding your way around Bangkok can numbered (and sometimes named) sois
be a challenge. The lack of standard and troks (minor roads and lanes) leading
transliterations for Thai words means from them. Odd-numbered sois usually
that the street names listed here will not lead off one side of a road, even numbers
always match those seen on street signs. off the other. Be warned that there can
Additionally, some streets are known by be considerable distances between sois –
more than one name – for example, for instance, sois 6 and 36 off Petchaburi
Charoen Krung Road is New Road and Road are more than 2 miles (3 km) apart.
Wireless Road is Witthayu Road. Most Major sights, markets, and ferry piers are
major roads (thanons) have numerous also listed in this gazetteer.

IN
OTH
RAT
G

CH
ON

AW

NY
IT
W

HI SE
CO

AHO
ND
T

ST
NI

SE

PH
AG
SA

RAT
M

E
O

CH
SA
AN

NN

AW XP

E
IT
AR

HI RE
SO

OE

Dusit SS
CH

W
M

WA
MN
DE

ISU
T

DA

Y
PH
TK
PH

SY
ITS
HA
AS
RA

AI

AN

ST
TH
AT

TC
PIN

UL

EM
OK
RA
KL

A
AO

AY

Old City LAN LUANG

PH
ITS AR A P

PET
ATSADAN

CHA
RACHINI

BUR
SANAM

I
HA

CHAI

RAMA I
PHLOEN
CHIT
AT

THAI

Thon Downtown
AW

CHALER

Chinatown
KR

Buri K
PHAYA

CH A
I
CH

ADAMR

M
ARO

Ch
MAHANA

ITS ao RAM
EN K
POK

AR A IV
AP
CH

HA
RUNG
THI

R AT

P
Ph

KHON EXP
CHA

raya

INTHRA
PRA

RAPHITA
K RAM
NUA
R

ORN A IV
ESSWAY

SATH TAI
O TA HRA

HOR N
KSIN

S AT
KRUNG THON BU NUA
CHA DET P

RI O RN
SATH TAI
ORN
SATH
SOM

0 kilometers 2

0 miles 1

Key
Major sight Riverboat pier Church
Place of interest Chao Phraya Express pier Mosque
Other building Tourist information Railroad line
Subway station Hospital with emergency room Skytrain route
Railroad station Police station Airport rail
Skytrain station Wat Expressway
Airport rail link Hindu temple Street market

Scale of Map Pages

0 meters 400

0 yards 400
 BANGKOK STREET FINDER  149

A Chalerm Mahanakhon Chung Charoen Phanit 6 E1 Kasem San, Soi 1 7 C1

Expressway 4 F5 Church of Santa Cruz 5 C2 Kasem San, Sois 2–3 7 B1
Aksin, Sois 1–2 8 F5
continues 8 F2 Convent Road 7 C4 Khai, Trok 2 E5
Ama Kang, Soi 6 E2
Chalermlap Market 4 E5 CST, Soi 4 E4 Khang Ban Manang-
Amulet Market 1 C5
Chaloem Khet 1–3 3 A5 khasila, Soi 3 B4
Anantanak 3 A5
Khang Pam Nam Man
Anglo Plaza, Soi 7 B4 Chaloem Khet 4 2 F5 D Shell, Soi 5 A4
Annopnarumit, Soi 4 F3 Cham Niam Suk, Sois 1–3 5 A4
Anuman Rajdhon, Soi 7 B4 Daeng Bunga, Soi 4 D4 Khang Rong Rap
Champravit Market 2 E2
Anuwong 6 D2 Chamnam, Soi 5 C3
Chamsai, Soi 4 D4 Damnoen Klang Tai, Soi 2 D4
Aram Si, Soi 4 D4 Khang Wat Welurachin,
Chan, Trok 2 F5 Damrong Rak 2 F4
Ari, Sois 1–5 4 E1 Soi 5 B4
Chang Pier 1 C5 continues 3 A4 Khao 2 E1
Ari Samphan, Soi 4 D1 Chang Tong, Trok 2 D5 Decho 7 B4
Ari Samphan, Sois 1–2 4 E1 Khao San 2 D4
Chanong Krung, Trok 7 A2 Democracy Monument 2 E4 Khao San Market 2 D4
Ari Samphan, Sois 3–10 4 D1 Din Daeng 1 4 F3
Chanpravit Market 2 E2 Khlai Chinda, Soi 5 C4
Arun Amarin 1 B3 Din Daeng Pier 6 D2
continues 5 B1 Chao Fa 1 C4 Khlong Bang Jag 2 D1
Chao Khamrop 6 E1 Din Daeng, Soi 4 F3 Khlong Bang Nam Chon 5 A5
Asoke Din Daeng 4 F3
Chao Phraya 2 D3 Dinso 2 E5 Khlong Bang Ramru 1 A1
Asoke-Rachadapisek
continues 5 B1 Ditsamak 2 F5 Khlong Bang Sakai 5 B3
Expressway 4 D2
Assumption Cathedral 6 F4 Charan Sanit Wong 1 A2 Dumake Pier 6 F5 Khlong Bang Yikhan 1 A1
Atsadang 2 D5 Sois 32, 34, 41 1 A3 Dusit Park 2 F2 Khlong Bangkok Noi 1 A3
continues 5 C1 continues 3 A2 Khlong Bangkok Yai 5 B2
Sois 36, 43, 45 1 A2
Atsawin, Sois 1–2 1 A2 Dusit Zoo 3 A2 Khlong Banglamphu 2 E4
Sois 38, 40 1 B2
Attaphannorapha, Soi 4 E4 Khlong Chong Nonsi 7 B3
Sois 42, 49, 55, 57–57/1 1 B1 Khlong Lam Pak 3 A4
Atthakan Prasit, Soi
Atthawimon, Soi
8 E4
4 F3
Sois 44, 46, 48, 50– E Soi Khlong Lam Pak 3 A4
50/1, 52 1 C1 Khlong Lot 2 D5
Charat Muang 7 A1 Ek-Ong, Soi 1 B1
continues 5 C1
B Charat Wiang 7 A5 Erawan Shrine
Expressway
8 D1
3 C5
Khlong Mahanak 2 F4
Charoen Chai, Trok 2 6 F1 continues 3 A5
Baiyoke Towers 4 E5 Charoen Krung (New Rd) 6 D1 Khlong Mon 5 A1
Bamrung Muang 2 E5 Soi 39 7 A3 F Khlong Ong Ang
continues
2 E5
6 D1
continues 3 A5 Sois 1, 2 6 D1
Bamrung Rat 6 E1 Sois 8–15, 19, 21, 23 6 E1 Fuang Nakhon 2 D5 Khlong Phadung Krung
Ban Bat, Soi 2 E5 Sois 16, 18 6 E2 Kasem 2 E2
Ban Chang Lo, Soi 1 B5 Sois 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, G continues
Khlong Samre
3 A4 & 6 F1
5 A5
Ban Dok Mai, Trok 2 F5 29, 31, 33, 35, 37 6 F3
Sois 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 6 F4 Gay Sorn Plaza 8 D1 Khlong Samsen 3 B1
Ban Dok Mai, Trok 1 2 F5
Sois 42–42/1, 46, 48, Goethe Institute 8 E4 Khlong San 6 E3
Ban Dok Mai, Trok 2 2 E5
50–53 6 F5 Golden Mount 2 F5 Khlong San Pier 6 F3
Ban Lo, Trok 2 E4 Government House 2 F3 Khlong San Sap 3 B5
Sois 43, 45 7 A4
Ban Mo 5 C1 Grand Palace and Wat Khlong Sathorn 8 E4
Charoen Muang 7 A2
Banbab, Trok 7 A5 Phra Kaeo 1 C5 Khlong Thom, Soi 5 C3
Charoen Nakhon 6 E4
Bandit, Soi 4 D3 Sois 1–12 6 E4 Khlong Thom Market 6 E1
Khlong Wat Chaeng 5 A1
Bangkok Bank, Soi 6 F1 Sois 13–15, 17–20 6 E5 H Khlong Wat
Bangkok Christian Hospital 7 C4 Charoen Phanit, Soi 6 F3
Bangkok Noi/Thon Buri Hasadin, Soi 4 E5 Ratchasittharam 5 A3
Charoen Rat 5 C4
Railroad Station 1 B4 Henri Dunant 7 C3 Khlong Wat Thepthida 2 E5
Sois 4, 8 5 C4
Hiranruchi, Soi 5 B4 Khlong Wat Thong 1 A3
Bangkok Shopping Sois 3, 5, 7, 9, 11–16,
Hua Lamphong Station 7 A2 Khlong Wat Thong
Complex 6 F5 18, 20, 22 6 D4
Hutayana, Soi 8 D5 Phleng 6 D4
Bangrak Market 6 F5 Sois 17, 24, 26, 28, 30 6 E4
Khlongthom Wat
Banthat Thong 7 A2 Charoen Suk, Soi 1 A1
continues 3 C5 Charoen Wiang 7 A5 I Sommanat
Khrut, Trok
2 F4
2 D5
Charoenkit, Soi 7 A3
Soi 36 7 A2 Inthraraphitak 5 B4 Kit Phanit 7 A3
Charoenphol Market 3 B5
Sois 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, Sois 1–3 5 B4 Klong Thom Pathum
Charun Wiang 7 A5
34, 38, 40 7 B2 Isara Nuphap, Soi 6 E2 Nongkha, Soi 6 F2
Chawakul, Soi 3 C4
Boonphongsa, Soi 1 B2 Chawakun, Soi 4 E3 Isetan Shopping Complex 4 E5 Klong Thom Wat Phra
Boonphongsa, Soi 1 1 B2 Cherdchungam, Soi 1 A5 Itsaraphap 1 A4 Phiren, Soi 6 E1
Bophit Pimuk, Soi 6 D1 Chetuphon 5 C1 continues 5 A1 Klong Thom, Soi 6 F2
Boriphat 6 D1 Chiang Mai 6 E3 Soi 1 6 D4 Kolit, Soi 4 D4
continues 2 E5 Chinda Thawin, Soi 7 B3 Sois 2, 4–4/1, 6, 8 6 D3 Kradang Nga, Trok 2 F4
Sois 3, 5, 9–14, 16, Krai Si 2 D4
Bowan Rang Si, Trok 2 D4 Chit Lom, Soi 8 E1
18, 20, 22, 24 5 C3 Krai, Trok 6 D2
Bowon Niwet 2 D4 Chitrlada Palace 3 B2
Sois 15, 17–17/1, 19 5 B3 Krai, Trok 6 E2
Bun Chu, Soi 4 F3 Chitta Kasem, Trok 6 F2
Sois 21, 28, 30, 32, 34 5 B2 Kraisih, Soi 8 F5
Bun Chu Si, Soi 4 F3 Chom Sombun, Soi 7 B3
Sois 23, 27, 29, 36, 38 5 A2 Kraithamas, Soi 6 D2
Bun Chuai, Soi 4 D2 Chong Nonsi Nua 7 C4
Sois 31, 33, 40, 42 5 A1 Krom Chaotha (Harbour
Bun Prarop, Soi 4 E4 Chong Nonsi Tai (Narathi
Sois 37, 39, 41, 43, Department) Pier 6 F3
watrachanakarin 7 C4
Bung Makkasan 4 F4 44, 45 1 A5 Krom Prisanee Pier 6 F4
Chongraknorasi, Soi 8 D4 Krung Kasem 2 E2
Bunsiri 2 D5 Sois 46, 47 1 A4
Chuaphloeng 8 F5 continues 3 A4 & 6 F1
Buranasat 2 D4 Chulalongkorn Hospital 8 D3 Krung Man 3 A5
Burapha 6 D1 Chulalongkorn J Krung Thon Buri 5 C5
Burirom, Sois 1, 2, 5 6 E1 Monument 2 F2 Soi 1 5 C4
Jack Chia, Soi 8 F5
Chulalongkorn University 7 C3 Soi 4 5 C5
Jim Thompson House 3 C5
C Chulalongkorn, Sois 1, Sois 3, 8
Sois 5, 10
6 D5
6 E5
3–6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 7 B1
Central Hospital 6 E1 Chulalongkorn, Sois 7, K Kudi Chain, Soi 5 C2
Central Post Office 6 F4 9, 18, 20, 22 7 B2 Kumarin Ratchapaksi, Soi 1 B3
Ka-Om 2 F4
Central Supermarket 6 D1 Chulalongkorn, Sois 11, 15, 42, Kaeo Fa, Soi 7 A3
Chai Samoraphum, Soi
Chaiyot, Soi
4 E3
2 E1
44, 48, 50, 52, 54 7 B3 Kai Chae, Trok 2 D3 L
Chulalongkorn, Sois Kalatan 6 F2
Chak Phet 6 D1 19, 60 7 C3 Kalayana Maitri 2 D5 La-O, Trok 7 A2
Chakkaphatdi zPhong 2 F4 Chulalongkorn, Sois Kao Lan 6 F2 Lad Ya 5 C4
Chakkrawat 6 D1 62, 64 7 C1 Kao Market 6 E2 Sois 1–3, 5 5 C4
Chakrabongse 2 D4 Chulin, Soi 2 E5 Kasaemsi, Soi 2 E3 Sois 6, 8, 10–13, 15 6 D4
150  BANGKOK STREET FINDER

Sois 14, 16 6 E4 Na Phra That 1 C4 Phaniang 2 F4 Pradit, Soi 7 A4

Soi 17 6 D3 Nai Loet, Soi 8 F1 Phanu Rang Si, Soi 6 F2 Praditphol, Soi 1 A3
Soi 21 6 E3 Nai Thongbai, Trok 5 C4 Phat Sai 6 F2 Pradu, Soi 6 F2
Lak Muang 2 D5 Nak Bamrung, Soi 3 A5 Phattana Chang, Soi 1 A4 Prakobphol, Sois 1–2 1 C3
Lamphun Chai 6 F2 Nakhon Chaisi 3 B1 Phatu Nokyung, Soi 5 B1 Pramongkut Hospital 4 D2
Lan Luang 2 F4 Nakhon Kasem, Sois 3–4 6 D1 Phaya Mai 5 C3 Pramot, Soi 7 A4
continues 3 A4 Nakhon Pathom 3 A3 Soi Phaya Mai 5 C3 Pramot, Sois 1–3 7 A4
Lang Krasuang Market 5 C1 Nakhon Sawan 2 F4 Phaya Nak 3 B5 Pramuan 7 A5
Lang Samoson Thapok, continues 3 A4 Soi Phaya Nak 3 C5 Prasaan, Soi 7 A4
Soi 2 F2 Nakkharat 3 A5 Phaya Thai 7 C2 Prasart Court, Soi 8 D5
Lang Suan, Soi 8 E2 Nakorn Kasem 6 E1 continues 4 D5 Prasat Suk, Soi 8 F5
Lang Suan, Sois 1–7 8 E2 Nam Banyat, Soi 2 E3 Phayathai-Bangkhlo Pratunam Market 4 E5
Lang Wat Hua Lamphong, Nana, Soi 6 F2 Expressway 3 B5 Pridi, Soi 8 E5
Trok 7 B3 Nana Market 2 D3 continues 7 A1
Prinya 1 B1
Loet Panya, Soi 4 E4 Nangleng Market 2 F4 Phet Kasem 5 A4
Prok Wat Arun, Sois 1–3 5 B1
Luang 6 E1 Nang Lueng, Trok 2–3 2 F4 Sois 1–3 5 A4
Prong Chai, Soi 8 E5
continues 2 E5 Nantha, Soi 8 D5 Soi 4 5 A3
Luk Luang 2 E2 Narayana Phand Phet Phloi, Trok 7 A3
continues 3 A4 Shopping Complex 8 D1 Phi Rom, Soi 6 D2 R
Lukmahadthai 2 D1 Naret 7 B3 Phiphat, Soi 7 C4
Rachawadi, Trok 5 C4
Lumphini Boxing National Arts Gallery 2 D4 Phiphat, Sois 1–2 7 C4
Rachawat Market 3 B1
Stadium 8 E4 National Library 2 E2 Phiphit, Soi 2 E4
Rachinee Pier 5 C2
Lumphini Park 8 D3 National Museum 1 C4 Phisamai, Soi 3 A1
Rachini 2 D5
Nawa, Trok 2 D5 Phithaksin, Soi 5 C4
continues 5 C1
Nawang, Soi 6 D1 Phitsanulok 2 E2
M Nawat Hua Lamphong, continues 3 A4
Ram Buttri 2 D4
Soi 7 C3 Phlab Phla Chai 6 F1 Ram Buttri, Soi 2 D3
Maekhong, Soi 1 B1
Neilson-Hays Library 7 B4 continues 3 A5 Rama I 7 A1
Maen Si, Soi 2 F5
New Bobe Shopping Pho Phanit 6 E1 Rama IV 7 A2
Maen Si, Sois 1–2 2 F5
Maha Chai 2 E5 Complex 3 B5 Pho Sua, Trok 2 D5 continues 6 F2
continues 6 D1 New Road (Charoen Pho, Soi 5 C2 Rama V 3 A3
Maha Nakhon 7 A3 Krung) 6 D1 Phok Siri, Soi 3 C1 Rama VIII Bridge 1 C2
Sois 4, 6, 8 7 A3 New World Department Phokhi 3 A5 Ramathibodi Hospital 3 C3
Maha Phrutharam 6 F3 Store 2 D3 Phra Athit 1 C3 Rang Nam 4 E4
Maha Uma Devi Ngam Duphli, Soi 8 E5 Phra Athit Pier 1 C3 Ratchabophit 2 D5
Temple 7 B4 Ni Chong Sawatdi 6 F3 Phra Chan 1 C4 Ratchadamnoen
Mahachak 6 E1 Nikhom Banphak Rotfai 1 B4 Phra Chan Pier 1 C4 Boxing Stadium 2 F3
Mahanak Market 3 A5 Sois 1–6 1 A4 Phra Chen, Soi 8 E3 Ratchadamnoen Klang 2 D4
Mahannop 2 D5 Nikhom Makkasan 4 F5 Phra Nakharet, Soi 7 A3 Ratchadamnoen Nok 2 F4
Mahannop, Trok 2 D5 Nitcharot, Soi 1 C1 Phra Nang, Soi 4 E3 Ratchadamri 8 D2
Maharaj Market 1 C4 Noen Khai Luang, Soi 1 A4 Phra Phinij, Soi 8 D5 Soi Ratchadamri 8 D1
Maharaj Pier 1 C4 Nom Chit, Soi 4 D4 Phra Phiphit 5 C1 Ratchaprarop 4 E5
Mahathat 1 C5 Nopphamat, Soi 1 A4 Phra Phitak 5 C1 Soi Ratchaprarop 4 E4
continues 5 C1 Phra Pin Klao Ratchasi, Trok 2 F5
Mahatlek Luang, Sois 1–3
Mahesak
8 D2
7 A4
O (Wat Dao Dung) Pier
Phra Pin Klao Tatmai
1 C3
1 A1
Ratchasima
Ratchataphan, Soi
2 F2
4 E4
Mai Market 6 E2 O-Sathahon 6 D2 Phra Pok Klao Bridge 6 D2 Ratchawithi 3 A1
Maitri, Trok 6 F1 Oriental Hotel 6 F4 Phra Sumen 2 D3 continues 2 E1
Maitri Chit 6 F1 Oriental Pier 6 F4 Phraeng Nara 2 D5 Ratchawong 6 E2
Makham, Trok 1–2 6 F2 Oriental Plaza 6 F4 Phraeng Phuton 2 D5 Ratchawong Pier 6 E2
Makkasan Railroad Phraeng Sanphasat 2 D5 Ratruam Charoen, Soi 5 C4
Station 4 F5
Man Sin, Sois 1–4 3 C4 P Phrannok
Phrannok Market
1 A4
1 A4
Rattanasisang, Soi 1 A5
Ratutit, Soi 7 A2
Manawitthaya, Trok 5 C5 Pak Khlong Market 5 C1 Phrannok Pier 1 B4 Ratying Charoen, Soi 5 C4
Mangkon 6 E2 Pak Khlong Pier 5 C2 Phrasan Saraban, Soi 4 F4 River City Department
Soi Mangkon 6 F1 Palana, Soi 7 A4 Phrasi, Soi 3 B5 Store 6 F3
Sois 1–2 6 F1 Pan 7 B5 Phraya Damrong, Soi 7 A3 River City Pier 6 F3
Matum, Soi 1 B5 Parinayok 2 E4 Phraya Maha Ammat, Rong Che, Soi 5 A5
Mayom, Trok 2 D4 Pata Department Store 4 E5 Soi 3 A5 Rong Lao Pier 2 D3
Meksawat, Soi 8 F5 Patpong 1–2 7 C3 Phraya Si, Soi 5 C1
Memorial Bridge 5 C2 Rong Liang Dek, Trok 3 A5
Patravadi Theatre 1 B5 Phun Suk, Soi 8 E5
Ming Bamrung Muang, Rong Liang Dek Market 3 A5
Peninsula Plaza 8 D1 Phuttha-Osot, Soi 7 A4
Soi 1 A5 Rong Mai, Trok 1 C4
Petchaburi 3 C4 Phyanakhonratchaseni,
Mit Anan, Soi 3 C1 Rong Mo Pier 5 B1
Sois 1, 2, 4, 6 3 B4 Soi 7 A2
Mittraphan 6 F2 Rong Muang 7 A1
Sois 3, 5, 7 3 C4 Phyaphiren, Soi 8 F5
Mo Daeng, Soi 1 A4 Sois 9, 11, 13, 15, 18, Sois 1–5 7 A1
Phyasingseni, Trok 7 A2
Momchuan, Trok 3 A5 20 4 D5 Phyautit, Soi 3 A1 Rong Rian Chanthana
Monk’s Bowl Village 2 F5 Sois 10, 12, 14 3 C5 Pichai 3 A1 Suksa, Soi 5 B4
Montri, Soi 5 B3 Sois 17, 19, 21–26, 28, Pichai Soi 1 7 B5 Rongrian King Phet, Soi 3 C5
Moobanbangyikhan 30, 32 4 E5 Pichai Soi 2 7 C5 Rongrian Ratprasong, Soi 4 F3
Thaohouse, Soi 1 B2 Sois 27, 29, 31, 33, Pikul, Soi 7 B5 Rongrian Sudarak, Soi 3 C5
Moobankhunpan, Soi 6 E5 35, 37 4 F5 Pinthipphimanwes, Soi 1 B2 Ronnachai, Sois 1–2 3 C1
Moobanmahawong Petchaburi Market 3 C5 Plaeng Nam 6 E2 Royal Bangkok Sports
Patthana, Soi 1 B2 Phadung Dao 6 F2 Ploenchit Rd 8 E1 Club 8 D2
Morchub, Soi 5 B5 Phadung Krung Kasem Plukchit, Soi 8 F4 Royal Barge Museum 1 B3
Morleng, Soi 4 F4 Market 3 A5 Plukchit, Sois 1–2 8 F4 Royal Chalermkrung
Morsun, Trok 7 A3 Phahon Yothin 4 E2 Polalit, Soi 4 E4 Theater 6 D1
Museums at the Siriraj Sois 1, 3 4 E2 Polit Sapha, Soi 6 F2 Royal Turf Club 3 A3
Hospital 1 B4 Sois 2, 4 4 F1 Polo, Soi 1 8 E3 Ruam Pradit, Soi 3 B1
Soi 5 4 E1 Polo, Sois 2, 4–5 8 F3 Ruam Rudi, Soi 8 F2
N Phahurat
Phahurat Market
6 D1
6 D1
Pongchitt, Soi
Prachathipathai
5 A4
2 E3
Ruam Rudi, Sois 1–4
Ruam Rudi, Soi 5
8 F2
8 F3
Na Hap Phoel 2 D5 Phalittaphon, Soi 6 E2 Prachathipok 5 C3 Ruamit, Soi 4 F3
Na Phra Lan 1 C5 Phan Trachit, Trok 2 6 F2 Prachum, Soi 7 A4 Ruen Rudi, Soi 8 F1
 BANGKOK STREET FINDER  151

S Sois 1–6, 9–11 7 C1 T Wat Borom Niwat, Soi 3 B5

Sillapakorn, Trok 1 C5 Wat Bowonniwet 2 E4
Sa Nam Rhao 4 E2 Taksin Bridge 6 F5
Saeng Uthai Thip, Soi 4 F3 Silom 7 A4 Wat Daowadungsaram,
Taksin Monument 5 C4
Saengmuang, Soi 5 C4 Soi 19 7 A5 Talad Charoen Phon, Soi 3 B5 Soi 1 C3
Saha Mit, Soi 7 A3 Sois 1, 3–8 7 C4 Taladsiwanich, Soi 4 F3 Wat Duangkhae, Soi 7 A2
Sailom, Soi 4 F1 Sois 9–14, 16, 18, 20 7 B4 Talat Sesaweech, Soi 5 B4 Wat Hong, Soi 5 B2
St. Francis Xavier Church 2 E1 Sois 17, 22, 24, 26, 28, Tambon Mahathat, Soi 1 C5 Wat Indrawihan 2 E2
Saint Louis, Sois 1–3 7 B5 30, 32 7 A4 Tambon Nakhon, Soi 1 C4 Wat Kalayanimit 5 B2
Saithi 2 8 D5 Silom Plaza 7 B4 Tambon Taweephol, Soi 1 C5 Wat Kanlaya, Soi 5 C2
Sake, Trok 2 D4 Silom Village Complex 7 A4 Tambonwanglang, Soi 1 1 B5 Wat Khahabodi, Soi 1 C2
Saksin, Soi 5 C5 Silpakorn University 1 C5 Tanao 2 D5 Wat Klang, Soi 5 A5
Sala Daeng 8 D4 Sin, Trok 2 E4 Tanarak, Soi 7 B5 Wat Klang Market 5 A4
Sois 1–2 8 D4 Sip Sam Hang 2 D4 Tani 2 D4 Wat Mahathat 1 C5
Sala Tonchai, Soi 1 B5 Siri Phong 2 E5 Taniya 7 C4 Wat Makog, Soi 4 D3
Salakhin, Trok 7 A2 Sirichai, Trok 1–2 2 E5 Taphanyao, Trok 6 D2 Wat Muang Khae Pier 6 F4
Sam Sen Railroad Station 3 C1 Siriraj Pier 1 B4 Tha Din Daeng 6 D3 Wat Nak Klang, Soi 5 A1
Sam Yot, Soi 6 D1 Sirung, Soi 8 F5 Sois 1, 3–11, 13, Wat Pathum Wanaram 8 D1
Sama Han, Soi 8 F2 Sithongdi, Soi 1 B1 15–18/1 6 D3 Wat Phakhininat, Soi 2 D1
Sampaya, Soi 5 C5 Sitthiprasat, Soi 8 F5 Soi 2 6 D4 Wat Pho 5 C1
Sampeng Lane 6 E2 Snake Farm 7 C3 Soi 20 6 D2 Wat Phothi Nimit, Soi 5 A5
Samran Rat, Soi 2 E5 Soda, Soi 3 A1 Tha Klang, Soi 5 C2 Wat Phraya Tham, Soi 5 A1
Samran, Soi 4 E5 Soem Sinkha 6 E1 Tha Tian, Soi 5 B1 Wat Prayun 5 C2
Samsen 2 D3 Sombun Panya, Soi 7 B3 Thai Wang 5 C1 Wat Rachabophit 2 D5
Sois 1–3, 5, 7 2 D3 Somdet Chao Praya 6 D3 Thammasat University 1 C4 Wat Rachanat 2 E4
Sois 4, 6, 10 2 E3 Than Thawan, Soi 7 C4 Wat Rachapradit 2 D5
Sois 1–2, 4 5 C3
Sois 9, 11, 13 2 E1 Thanam San Chao, Soi 6 E2 Wat Rakhang 1 B5
Sois 3, 5–8, 10–12,
Soi 12 2 F2 Thanasilp, Soi 8 D5 Wat Rakhang Pier 1 B5
14, 16, 18 6 D3
San Chao Maepla Thaneethaphisek, Soi 5 A1 Wat Rakhang Khositaram,
Sois 13, 15, 17 6 E3
Taphian, Soi 7 A4 The Wet, Soi 1–3 2 E3 Soi 1 B5
Somdet Phra Chao Taksin 5 B5
Sanam Chai 5 C1 Thep Hatsadin, Soi 4 E4 Wat Ratchakhru, Soi 5 A5
Sois 3, 5 5 C4
Sanam Khli, Soi 8 E3 Thepharak, Soi 1 B3 Wat Ratchinatda, Trok 2 E4
Sois 4–4/1, 6, 8, 10,
Sanam Luang 1 C4 Thepnakarin, Soi 1 B2 Wat Saket 2 F5
Sanan Sin, Soi 1 A4 12, 14, 18 5 B5
Therd Damri 3 C1 Wat Sam Phraya Pier 2 D3
Sanchao Arneaw, Soi 5 C5 Sois 7, 9, 11 5 C5
Thetsaban Sai 1 5 C2 Wat Sommanat, Soi 2 F4
Sanchao, Soi 1 B1 Song Phra, Soi 7 B3
Thetsaban Sai 2–3 5 C3 Wat Suthat and the
Sangkhalok 2 F1 Song Sawat 6 F2
Thewet Pier 2 D2 Giant Swing 2 D5
Sanguan Suk, Soi 3 B1 Song Sawat Pier 6 E2
Thewet Flower Market 2 E2 Wat Suwannaram 1 A3
Santi Phap, Soi 7 B3 Songwat 6 E2
Thewi Worayat, Soi 2 F5 Wat Taphan, Soi 4 E3
Santi Phap, Soi 1 7 B3 Sot Phinsan, Soi 4 E3
Thian Siang, Soi 7 C5 Wat Thong Pier 6 E3
Santi, Soi 1 B1 Sra Song, Soi 2 E5
Thoet Thai 5 A5 Wat Traimit 6 F2
Santiphap 6 F1 St. Francis Xavier Church 2 E1
Thon Buri Railroad Wat Tri Thotsthep, Trok 2 E3
Santisuk, Soi 1 A4 Stadium Charusathian 7 B2
Station Pier 1 C4 Wat Wisetkan, Soi 1 B4
Santisuk, Soi 4 E3 Suan Amporn 2 F2
Ti Thong 2 D5 Wat Yai Si Suphan, Soi 5 B4
Saolada, Soi 1 A3 Suan Chitrlada 3 B3 Tien Pier 5 B1 Wattana Yothin, Soi 4 E3
Sap 7 B3 Suan Mali, Sois 1–3 2 F5 Tokyo Department Wattana, Soi 1 A4
Saphan Luang, Trok 5 C4 Suan Ngen, Soi 3 C2 Store 7 C1 Watthanasin, Soi 4 E5
Saphan Phut 5 C2 Suan Oi, Sois 1–5 2 F1 Tonson, Soi 8 E2 Watthanawong, Soi 4 E5
Saphan Phut Pier 5 C2 Suan Pakkad Palace 4 D4 Tri Mit 6 F2 Wiraya, Soi 3 C4
Saphan Tia, Soi 7 B3 Suan Rommani Nart 2 E5 Tri Phet 6 D1 Wireless Road (Witthayu) 8 E2
Saphankhu, Soi 8 F4 Suan Saranrom 5 C1 Trong Kham Talat Si Wiset San, Soi 5 C4
Saphran Khao Fruit Suandusit, Soi 3 B2 Thon, Soi 5 A4 Wisut Kasat 2 E3
Market 3 A4 Suanphlu, Soi 8 D5 Tuk Din, Trok 2 E4 Wisut Kasat Pier 2 D2
Saran Rom 2 D5 Suanphlu, Sois 1–2 8 D5 Witthayu (Wireless) Road 8 E2
Saraphi, Soi 2 5 C4 Suapa 6 E1
Saraphi, Soi 3 5 C5 Sukhat, Soi 2 D5
U Wiwat Wiang, Soi 6 E1
Saraphi, Soi 3 Tatmai 6 D5 Wongwian Lek Market 6 D2
Sukhom Tharam 3 B1 Udomsap, Soi 1 A1 Wongwian Yai Railroad
Sarasin 8 E3 Sukhumvit 8 F1 Ulit, Soi 8 F2
Sathitphon, Soi 1 B1 Station 5 B4
Sois 1, 3 8 F1 Unakan 2 E5 Wora Chak 2 F5
Sathorn Pier 6 F5 Sois 2, 4 8 F2 Uruphong, Soi 2 3 B4
Sathorn Nua (North) 7 A5 Woraphong, Soi 2 E3
Sukon, Sois 1–2 6 F2 Uruphong, Soi 3 3 B5 Worarak, Soi 3 B1
Sathorn Tai (South) 7 A5 Uthai, Soi 6 D2
Sukon, Trok 6 F2 Worarit, Soi 3 C5
Satsana, Soi 4 D1 Uthai Thip, Soi 4 F3
Sukothai 3 A1 World Trade Center 8 D1
Satsana, Soi 1–5 4 D1 Uthong Nai 3 A2
Sois 1–2 3 B1 Wutthi Chai, Trok 3 A4
Sawang 7 A2 Uthong Nok 2 F2
Sois 3–4 3 B2 Wutthi Suksa, Soi 5 C4
Sois 1, 3, 5, 7 7 A3
Soi 5 3 C2 Wutthipan, Soi 4 E4
Sawankhalok 3 B4
Sawansawat, Soi 8 F5
Suksa Witthaya, Soi 7 B5 V
Sung, Trok 6 F5
Senarak, Soi 4 D3
Sunthonphimol, Soi 7 A2
Vichaigut Hospital 4 D1 Y
Set Siri, Soi 2 3 C1 Vimanmek Palace 2 F1
Setthakan, Soi 5 C1 Suphan 3 A1 Yaowaphanit 6 E2
Supphakorn, Soi 3 A4 Yaowarat 6 E1
Shangri-La Pier
Si Ayutthaya
6 F5
3 B3 Supphamit 3 A4 W Yen Akat 8 E5
continues 2 F2 SUPPORT Museum 2 F1 Wanawan, Trok 6 D4 Yen Akat, Soi 1 8 E5
Soi 1 4 E4 Surasak 7 A5 Wang Doem 5 A2 Yenchit, Trok 6 D4
Si Bamphen, Soi 8 E5 Surawong 7 A4 Wang Lang, Trok 1 B4 Yisipsong Karakadakhom
Si Phom, Soi 5 B4 Surawong Center 7 C3 Wangchao Sai 6 F1 1–3, 5 6 F1
Si Phraya Pier 6 F4 Sutcharit, Soi 1 3 B1 Wanit, Soi 2 6 F3 Yommarat Market 3 B4
Si Praya 7 A3 Sutcharit, Soi 2 3 B2 Wasukri Pier 2 E1 Yommarat, Soi 8 D4
continues 6 F3 Sutcharit Nua, Soi 3 B1 Wat Amarin Market 1 B4 Yommaratsukhum 6 E1
Si Thamathirat 6 E1 Suthisuksa, Soi 5 C4 Wat Amonkiri, Soi 1 C2 Yotha 6 F3
Si Wiang 7 A5 Suwannaram Market 1 A3 Wat Amphawan, Soi 3 B1 Yotha 1 6 F3
Siam Center 7 C1 Suwannin, Soi 1 C2 Wat Arun 5 B1 Yothi 3 C3
Siam City 4 D4 Suwichandamri, Soi 1 C3 Wat Arun Pier 5 B1 Yotsi, Soi 3 A5
Siam Square 7 C1 Swatdi, Soi 7 A2 Wat Benchamabophit 3 A3 Yuttha Suksa, Soi 5 A1
 SOI SO

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THE CENTRAL
PLAINS

Introducing the Central

Plains 162–167
South Central Plains 168–189
North Central Plains 190–205
162  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

Introducing the Central Plains

Si Satchanalai
The fertile plains stretching northward from Bangkok are
the nation’s rice basket and the historic heartland of the
Tai people. Here lie the impressive ruined cities of the old
Sukhothai (see pp62–3) and Ayutthaya kingdoms (see pp64–5).
Today this is the country’s most wealthy and densely Thung Saliam

populated region, with fast-expanding towns surrounded

by fields of sugar cane and rice. In the forested hills that
border the Central Plains are national parks with
spectacular waterfalls and a wide range of wildlife,
Tak
providing a pleasant scenic contrast.
Mae Sot Phran
Kratai

Lao Yang Kamphaeng

Phet

Khlong
Khlung

Umphang

Si Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical Park

(see pp202–4) encompasses the ruins of one of
the most important Sukhothai cities, as well as
the remains of an earlier Khmer settlement.

Ban Rai
Sangkhla
Kamphaeng Phet Buri
(see pp196–7) contains a
SOUTH
wealth of Sukhothai-era
CENTRAL PLAINS
monuments and ruins (See pp168–189)
and, within the old city
Thong
walls, a fine museum Pha Phum
Nong Pru
displaying ceramics such
as this 15th-century pot.

Bo Phloi
0 kilometers 50 Nam Tok

0 miles 50

Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi (see pp174–5)

is near the site of the infamous
bridge built over the Khwae
Yai River during World War II.
A museum and cemetery in the
town provide a moving testament
to the Asian laborers and Allied
troops who died.

Seated Buddha image at Wat Mahathat, Sukhothai Historical Park

 INTRODUCING THE CENTRAL PLAINS  163

Sukhothai
Historical Park
(see pp198–201) is
Wang one of Thailand’s
Pa Chun
most memorable
sights. Within the
Sawankhalok vast, abandoned
city are the
remains of
40 wats.
Sukhothai

Wat Bot
Phitsanulok

NORTH
CENTRAL PLAINS
(see pp190–205)

Phichit
Nong Khla

Khao Sai

Lop Buri (see pp178–9) is an ancient city within easy

reach of Bangkok. Although it is not as geared to
Nong Bua tourism as Ayutthaya or Sukhothai, it has a variety of
Sukhothai and Khmer ruins, such as Prang Sam Yot.
Nakhon
Sawan
Khao Yai National
Park (see pp188–9),
the first, and still
Uthai Thani Tak Fa one of the most
popular national
parks in the
Chai Nat country, ranks
among the best
Hankha places to see
Thai wildlife.

Sam Chuk Lop Buri

Ang
Thong
Saraburi
Suphan
Buri
Ayutthaya

Prachin
Bang Pa-in Buri

Ban Pong

Ratchaburi Ayutthaya (see pp180–85) was one of

the greatest cities in Asia during the
15th and 16th centuries. Extensive ruins
scattered through the modern town
evoke the splendor of the city’s past.
164  the central plains

Sukhothai Art
the prolific artisans of the sukhothai school (late 13th–
15th centuries) adapted stylistic elements from sri lanka,
Burma, and other neighboring countries to produce some
of thailand’s finest works of art. numerous Buddha images
of immense beauty and fluidity were cast in bronze.
the “Walking” Buddha – a posture that is otherwise rare in
Buddhist art – is perhaps the best-known artistic achievement
of the period. the sangkhalok (see p204) ceramics industry
also flourished, and its fine wares, including pale blue-green
celadons, were exported all over asia until The Walking Buddha
posture possibly represents
the middle of the 16th century. the Buddha’s descent from
Tavatimsa Heaven after he
Bronze replaced stone as the had visited his mother.
preferred material for Buddha
images during the Sukhothai
period. It allowed a far more Phitsanulok Buddha
delicate detailing of the Buddha’s Located in Wat Phra Si Rattana
hair and facial features. Mahathat in Phitsanulok, this
14th-century Buddha image,
known properly as Phra Phuttha
Chinarat, is one of the most
revered in all of Thailand, second
only to the Emerald Buddha in
Bangkok. Cast in bronze and later
gilded, the serene figure is a
This bronze Vishnu, a supreme example of late
Hindu god, is in the Sukhothai art.
classic Sukhothai style.
Brahmin priests, who
presided over some court Wedge-shaped joints
ceremonies, probably ordered
figures like this to be made.

The flame like “halo”

around Phra Phuttha
Chinarat, ending in
naga heads, is unique.

Fingers all of the

same length
Sukhothai bai semas
(boundary stones, see
p37) were fashioned
from slate into leaf
shapes. This one, at Wat
Sorasak in Sukhothai, is
inscribed with details
of a land grant.

Monochrome ceramic gable

decorations, such as this one from Ceramic finials, found on many roofs,
Wat Phra Phai Luang, Sukhothai, were sometimes fashioned as
are a typical architectural flourish dragons. Such decorations show a
from the period. fusion of Khmer and Chinese styles.
 introducing the central plains  165

Sangkhalok ware,
such as this
delightful, brown
monochrome elephant,
are often well preserved.
Fine pieces like this were
produced from the mid-
14th century onward,
when exports boomed.

King Vajiravudh (1910–25)

Tightly curled hair drawn was highly active in the early
into flamelike finial archaeological work at Sukhothai:
he was a totally untrained but
Arched nose and enthusiastic excavator.
eyebrows
Fish-and-flower motifs,
painted beneath the glaze,
were popular for bowls and
plates. Such items were
exported as far afield as Japan.

Gently smiling mouth

Figurines sometimes feature a
bulge by the mouth, which
may depict the chewing
Diaphanous of fermented tea. Female
robes figures are common, often
carrying babies.

Pouring vessels, known as

kendis, were sometimes zoo-
morphic, like this earthenware
piece in the shape of a duck.

The Ban Ko Noi Kilns

The remains of 200 brick kilns were excavated at Ban Noi (see p203)
near Si Satchanalai in 1980–87. Some contain the pots that were
being fired when the kilns were abandoned. There are also a number
of kiln sites at Sukhothai.

Entrance Chimney
166  the central plains

Foreigners in Ayutthaya
throughout the 16th and 17th centuries ayutthaya
was one of the most important trading centers in asia,
attracting not only merchants but also missionaries,
adventurers, and mercenaries from around the world.
portuguese visitors arriving in the 16th century found a
riverine city of canals and magnificent flotillas of barges.
St. Joseph’s Church (see p184)
they brought firearms to trade and military advisers to stands south of Ayutthaya’s
help ayutthaya against the Burmese. the Dutch and main island. Originally built
english followed in the 17th century and established during the reign of King
trading warehouses. the Japanese came to buy animal Narai (1656–88) by French
missionaries, it has been
hides, while French Jesuits and persians competed for restored many times since.
religious converts. some foreigners, including constantine
phaulkon, sought political influence.

Royal Palace

Lacquerware
was a specialty
of Ayutthaya.
Like other
aspects of life
in the city, the
decorative arts
reflected the
influence of
foreigners or
farangs. These
doors depict
farang traders.

Map of
Ayutthaya
The involvement of Europeans in Siamese
affairs led to the publication of several maps
of Ayutthaya. This French map, probably
an 18th-century copy of one drawn in
the 17th century, shows the location of
the French, Portuguese, and Siamese
quarters. The European spelling of
Ayutthaya at that time was Iudia.

Siamese quarter Chao Phraya River

The first French to arrive in

Ayutthaya, in 1662, were
Jesuit missionaries. In 1681
the French asked permission
for a full diplomatic mission
to visit the city. It arrived in
1685, headed by the envoy
from Louis XIV, Chevalier de
Chaumont. A Siamese envoy
later returned with him to
France. This painting shows
him being received at court
by the Sun King, Louis XIV.
 introducing the central plains  167

French Jesuit missionaries came to Ayutthaya to convert King

Narai to Catholicism. They failed in this but encouraged him to Chilies were first imported
cultivate an interest in astronomy. This illustration shows him from South America by the
watching a lunar eclipse in 1685. Following the Jesuits’ tutelage Portuguese, who established a
he watched a partial solar eclipse in 1688. Narai favored the trading treaty with the Siamese
Jesuits and gave them land to build churches and schools. in 1516. They quickly grew in
popularity, and today chilies
are an essential ingredient in
Siamese quarter Chinese quarter
numerous Thai dishes.

Royal barges and other boats crowded the waterways of

Ayutthaya. Often the first sight that greeted visitors to the
city was a convoy of royal barges. As a result, Ayutthaya
became known as the “Venice of the East.”

Constantine Phaulkon
The influence of foreigners in Ayutthaya was greatest under
King Narai (1656–88). Most notorious of those who came to
Ayutthaya was the Greek adventurer Constantine Phaulkon,
who arrived in 1678 in the employ of the English East India
Company. Attracting the attention of Narai, he quickly
moved on to become the king’s personal confidant and
chief minister. He later advised Narai against Dutch and
English interests in Ayutthaya. The French, meanwhile,
French quarter Portuguese quarter were allowed to station 600 soldiers in the kingdom. Amid
much political wrangling in court, Narai was viewed as
cultivating strong ties
with Louis XIV, whose
The VOC (Dutch ambition was to
East India convert him and Siam
Company) first to Catholicism, and
visited Ayutthaya some people feared
in 1604. A trading a French takeover.
warehouse was When Narai died in
set up in 1634, but 1688 all ties with
by the 1670s trade Westerners were
had declined. cut, and Phaulkon
The warehouse in was executed. Constantine Phaulkon, prostrate before the
Ayutthaya was Siamese king, Narai
later destroyed by
the Burmese.
 the central plains  169

SOUTH CENTRAL
PLAINS
For centuries, the broad flood plain of the chao phraya, which bisects
the south central plains north to south, has been thailand’s rice basket
as well as its most densely populated region. the river remains a vital
link between the country’s cultural heartland and its present-day
capital, Bangkok. the old capital of ayutthaya, upstream from
Bangkok, is the region’s most popular sight.

Ayutthaya was one of the greatest
mercantile centers in Asia during the
14th–18th centuries. Its fabulous temples
and palaces, built around the confluence
of the Chao Phraya, Lop Buri, and Pasak
Rivers, were regarded with wonder by
foreigners. In 1767 it was sacked by the
Burmese, and the capital was forced
to move downstream to Bangkok. The
remains of monuments from the earlier
period stand among more modern
buidings and each day attract hundreds
of visitors on round-trips from Bangkok.
Kanchanaburi, to the west of Bangkok,
is another popular day trip from the
capital. During World War II the Japanese
built a railroad from here to the Three
Pagodas Pass near Burma, along an
old Burmese invasion route. Little of
the railroad was ever used, but at
Kanchanaburi visitors can see poignant
reminders of this grueling episode, when
thousands of Asian laborers and Allied
POWs died.
Despite these and other noteworthy
sights, the region still has relatively few
tourist facilities. Towns such as Lop Buri –
an old Khmer outpost with several Khmer
prangs – and the pilgrimage site of Phra
Phutthabat are unknown to the majority
of tourists.
There is some accommodation in the
Khwae Noi River Valley, along the route
to the Three Pagodas Pass. This region is
surrounded by a vast expanse of forest
and grassland, including two wildlife
sanctuaries and the Erawan, Sai Yok, and
Chaloem Rattanakosin national parks.
At the eastern edge of the South Central
Plains, Khao Yai, the oldest national park,
is the best place in Thailand to see wild
elephants and many other animals.

The bridge over the Khwae Yai River at Kanchanaburi, a poignant reminder of World War II
Walkway at Wat Chai Watthanaram, Ayutthaya
170  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

Exploring the South Central Plains

The Chao Phraya River basin is fertile terrain, perfect for rice
production. It is no coincidence that the kingdoms of Lop Buri and,
later, Ayutthaya, the capital of which is the main sight of the region,
were founded here. East of the wide plain, Khao Yai is the country’s
oldest and most accessible national park. Kanchanaburi, in the
west, is the site of the notorious Death Railroad of World War II.
From there, a road winds up to
the Three Pagodas Pass on the
Burmese border, passing near
numerous national parks and

M ae
wildlife sanctuaries.

h a K h aeng
na
m
Kh
lo
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Huay K
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Reservoir ay
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pS
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Three Chang
Pagodas Pass

NG YAI NARESU
THU Ban Rai
A I KH A KHAE AN
SANGKHLA & HU NG
BURI
Khao Laem
Reservoir
Krasiaw
Reservoir Dan Chang
Thong Pha Phum
CHALOEM
Huai Khamin RATTANAKOSIN
Falls Si Nakharin NATIONAL PARK
Dam
Nong Pru
Si Sawat
Kh

0 kilometers 25 Si Nakharin
w

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a

No
0 miles 25 i Park

Erawan Falls
NA

Hellfire
IO AI Pass Bo Phloi
S
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N YO ERAWAN
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PRASAT hw
K

ae
MUANG SING Ban
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Ban Pong

Ratchaburi
Key
Expressway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Railway
International border

Memorial stones at POW cemetery, Kanchanaburi

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 SOUTH CENTRAL PLAINS  171

Getting Around
Many hotels in Bangkok arrange day tours of
Ayutthaya and Kanchanaburi. Boat tours up the
Chao Phraya River, from Bangkok to Ayutthaya via
Bang Pa-in, are also popular. Roads from Bangkok fan
out across the region, providing fast and easy access
by bus or car, though leaving Bangkok itself is time
consuming. Kanchanaburi,
Ayutthaya, and Lop
Buri can be all
Phetchabun reached by rail.
Chumsaeng
Nong Bua

Nakhon
Sawan

Uthai Thani
Tak Fa

Manorom Chaiyaphum Buddhas at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, Ayutthaya

Ta Khli

Chai Nat
Khok
Samrong
Ban Mi
Hankha

Sing Buri
LOP BURI
Chao Ph

Sam Chuk Pak

PHRA Chong
Khorat
PHUTTHABAT
Don Chedi
raya

ANG THONG

SUPHAN Pa Mok
Saraburi
BURI
KHAO
AYUTTHAYA N AT I O YA I
NAL
Nong Khae PA R
K
Song Phi Nong
BANG PA-IN Nakhon Nayok

Prachin Buri
Bangkok

Chachoengsao Sights at a Glance

1 Sangkhla Buri
2 Thung Yai Naresuan
and Huai Kha Khaeng
3 Sai Yok National Park
4 Erawan National Park
5 Prasat Muang Sing
6 Kanchanaburi
7 Chaloem Rattanakosin
National Park
8 Suphan Buri
9 Ang Thong
0 Lop Buri pp178–9
q Phra Phutthabat
w Ayutthaya pp180–85
e Bang Pa-in
r Khao Yai National Park pp188–9
Chanthara Phisan Hall, on grounds of King Narai’s Palace, Lop Buri
For keys to symbols see back flap
172  the central plains
On the way to market, Three Pagodas Pass
1 Sangkhla Buri

Kanchanaburi province. * 36,000.
@ from Kanchanaburi. n TAT,
Kanchanaburi (0-3451-1200). ( daily.
In the center of Sangkhla Buri
is a market where, among
other things, you can buy
Burmese curries and samosas,
as well as books written in the
Mon language.
However, the main attraction
of this isolated trading town,
which is populated by Mon
and Karen tribespeople
(see p210) as well as Thais, is its
serene lakeside location. The
lake, which visitors can explore
by rowing boat, is actually a
large reservoir, formed by the
damming of the Khwae Noi
River farther downstream.
Sometimes, late in the dry
Herd of wild buffalo, native to Thung Yai Naresuan and Huai Kha Khaeng wildlife sanctuaries
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–411 and pp418–33
season, drowned remains
of old villages and forests
can be seen sticking up
out of the calm surface
of the lake’s waters.
The north shore of the
lake is overlooked by the
unusual chedi of Wat
Wangwiwekaram. In the
covered gallery beside it a
daily market sells goods,
including lungis (sarongs)
and simple woodcarvings
from Myanmar (Burma),
Indonesia, and elsewhere.
Visitors can reach the wat
on foot by crossing a
wooden bridge that
spans the wide, shallow
inlet of the lake. A large
settlement, consisting
predominantly of Mon
tribespeople, has grown up in
close proximity to the wat. An
interesting daily market is held
here in the early morning.
Environs
At the Three Pagodas Pass,
14 miles (23 km) northwest of
Sangkhla Buri, right on the
Myanmar border, are situated
three small, physically
unimpressive, whitewashed
chedis. For centuries this
pass, which is less than 985 ft
(300 m) above sea level, was
used as an invasion route.
During World War II, the Burma-
Siam Railroad (see pp174–5)
passed through here, and the
route the track took can still be
seen beside the Myanmar
border. Nowadays, the pass is a
quiet trading (and smuggling)
route between the Indian
Ocean to the west and
mainland Southeast Asia.
Visitors to this region are usually
permitted to cross the border
on a one-day visa (see p459)
to the Myanmar town of
Pyathonzu. However, the
relations between Thailand and
Myanmar are often uneasy, at
times verging on the hostile,
and this situation is prone to
change at any time.
2 Thung Yai
Naresuan and Huai
Kha Khaeng

Kanchanaburi, Tak and Uthai Thani
provinces. n Kanchanaburi (0-3451-
1200); Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760).
@ from Kanchanaburi. &
∑ huaikhakhaeng.net
These two huge, adjacent
wildlife sanctuaries, covering
2,400 sq miles (6,220 sq km)
and surrounded by a further
2,320 sq miles (6,000 sq km)
of protected forest, form one
of the most important
conservation areas in South-
east Asia. They are listed
jointly as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site and are home
to some of Thailand’s largest
remaining wild elephant
herds, as well as several
endangered carnivores, such
as tigers, clouded leopards,
and Malaysian sun bears.
The enormous gaur, a species
of wild cattle, and the
country’s last wild buffalo
herds also live within the
sanctuary. Rare species of
gibbon can also be seen.

Tourist accommodations in the tranquil Sai Yok National Park
At Huai Kha Khaeng there
is a nature trail, but neither
wildlife sanctuary is geared up
for large numbers of visitors –
permission for large parties
to enter the parks can be
obtained from Bangkok
Forestry Department.
3 Sai Yok National
Park

Kanchanaburi province. Park HQ
off Hwy 323, 62 miles (100 km) NW
of Kanchanaburi. Tel 0-3468-6024.
n TAT, Kanachanaburi (0-3451-
1200); Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760 or
∑ dnp.go.th for bungalow
bookings). £ @ from
Kanchanaburi. &
Sai Yok was the site of a large
Japanese army barracks and
POW labor camp during
World War II. The 190-sq mile
(500-sq km) national park
was established in 1980 and
today is renowned for its
tranquil river scenery and
the impressive Sai Yok Yai
waterfall, which tumbles into
the Khwae Noi River near to
the park headquarters.
Accommodation is
available in park bungalows
or on pleasant houseboats,
and boats can be chartered –
at some expense – to some
nearby caves. The caves are
home to the 1-inch (3-cm)
long Kitti’s hog-nosed bat,
considered by some to be
the world’s smallest mammal,
and which was discovered
in 1973 by Thai naturalist
Kitti Thonglongya.
south central plains
Environs
The Burma-Thailand Railroad
Memorial Trail, south of Sai Yok,
pays tribute to prisoners who
died during the excavation of
the Konyu railroad cut. Near to
the cut, which was
given the name
“Hellfire Pass” by the
many prisoners of
war who labored
through the night by
torchlight, was the
“Pack of Cards Bridge.”
This rickety 985-ft
(300-m) long, 82-ft
(25-m) high structure
was built at perilous
speed with green
timber and, as a Plaque in memory of POWs, can make boat trips
result, heavy loss of
life – the structure
collapsed three times during its
construction.
The trail, set up with
funding from the Australian
government, winds up
to Konyu cutting through
a bamboo grove. The
railroad track has long since
been removed.
4 Erawan National
Park

Kanchanaburi province. Park HQ off
Hwy 3199, 40 miles (65 km) NW of
Kanchanaburi. Tel 0-3457-4222.
n TAT, Kanchanaburi (0-3451-1200);
Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760 or
∑ dnp.go.th for bungalow bookings).
£ @ from Kanchanaburi. &
In the lush forest of the Erawan
National Park, the nearest park
to Kanchanaburi and measuring
 173
210 sq miles (550 sq km),
are the beautiful Erawan falls,
which drop through a series
of cascades and shady rock
pools. While park rangers still
find occasional tiger prints,
visitors are more likely to see
pig-tailed and rhesus
macaques, and some 80 bird
species. The Visitors’ Center
offers a slide show about the
park, and there is a pleasant,
1-mile (2-km) hiking trail
which climbs up beside the
falls. This is one of Thailand’s
most popular national parks,
and at weekends and holidays
it gets very crowded. The large
limestone cavern of Tham
Wang Badan, situated on
the west side of the park,
contains many colorful
stalactites and
stalagmites.
Environs
The Huai Khamin
falls, which are in
nearby Si Nakharin
National Park, do
not receive as many
visitors as the
Erawan falls but, are
nonetheless quite
impressive. Visitors
Hellfire Pass onto the Si Nakharin
reservoir, either from
the Kradan pier or from Si
Sawat, a small market town
situated on the eastern shore
of the reservoir.
O Si Nakharin National Park
67 miles (108 km) N of Kanchanaburi.
Tel 0-3451-6667-8. Open daily. &
The Erawan falls, named after the Hindu
god Indra’s elephant mount
174  THE CENTRAL PLAINS
Central sanctuary of Prasat Muang Sing
near Kanchanaburi
5 Prasat Muang
Sing

Off Hwy 323, 27 miles (43 km) W of
Kanchanaburi, Kanchanaburi province.
n TAT, Kanchanaburi (0-3451-1200).
@ from Kanchanaburi to Tha Kilen,
then songthaew. Open daily. &
The ruins of Muang Sing beside
the Khwae Noi River date from
around the 13th century and
mark the westernmost point
of expansion of the Khmer
Empire (see pp268–9). Earthen
ramparts surround an inner wall
of laterite that forms a rough
rectangle about 245 acres
(1 sq km). Near the center of
this are the ruins of the Buddhist
sanctuary, Prasat Muang Sing.
Like most Khmer temples it
faces east, in alignment with
the city of Angkor.
Although the Muang Sing
temple complex looks Khmer,
some art historians believe it
was actually built by local
artisans in imitation of the
occupying Khmers – the
sanctuary, for example, lacks
the stylistic details that are
normally associated with
Khmer sites. It was probably
built after the reign of
Jayavarman VII (1181–1220) as
the Khmer Empire began to
decline and its power in this
region was fading. A museum
at the site displays artifacts
excavated here.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
Environs
Southeast of Muang Sing is Ban
Kao, a prehistoric settlement
discovered in the 1940s by
Dutch archaeologist van
Heekeren, a prisoner on the
Burma-Siam Railroad. The Ban
Kao Museum houses stone
tools and ornaments.
E Ban Kao Museum
22 miles (35 km) W of Kanchanaburi.
Open 8am–4:30pm Wed–Sat. &
6 Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi province. * 108,000.
£ @ n TAT, Saeng Chuto Rd,
Kanchanaburi (0-3451-1200).
Open 8:30am–4:30pm. ( daily.
_ Khwae River Bridge Week (Nov/Dec).
Though surrounded by
limestone hills and expanses
of sugar cane, Kanchanaburi
is best known for the
infamous Burma-Siam
Railroad. Constructed
in 1942–3, it crosses
over the Khwae Yai
River just to the north
of Kanchanaburi town
center. At the small
station beside the Sign, Kanchanaburi prisoners of war in the
bridge are a number of
steam locomotives dating
from the period. A memorial to
those who died during the war
was erected by the Japanese
administration in 1944. Today,
47 miles (77 km) of the railroad
remain, and the trip along it
from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok
is one of the most interesting in countries whose nationals worked
Thailand. The Thailand-Burma
Steel bridge over the Khwae Yai River, Kanchanaburi
Railroad Center charts the
history of this railroad. The
building of the railroad cost the
lives of more than 100,000 Asian
laborers and 12,000 Allied
prisoners of war. The
Kanchanaburi War Cemetery,
contains the graves of almost
7,000 mostly British and
Australian prisoners and is one of
two war cemeteries in the town.
It is immaculately maintained
by the Commonwealth War
Graves Commission.
The smaller of the two
cemeteries, Chong Kai Cemetery,
contains 1,740 graves and lies on
the north bank of the Khwae Noi
River, a short ferry ride from the
center of town. Nearby is Wat
Tham Khao Pun, overlooking the
river and the Burma-Siam Railroad,
which at this point heads south
toward Ban Kao and Prasat Muang
Sing. In the grounds of the wat
complex a network of narrow
passages leads through a
cave system filled with
Buddha images.
In the JEATH War
Museum, housed in
Wat Chai Chumphon,
visitors can see three
replicas of the bamboo
huts used to house
station camps that sprang up
along the Burma-Siam
Railroad during the war. The huts
display paintings, sketches, and
photographs of life in the camps
and along the railroad line. JEATH
is an acronym for Japan, England,
Australia and America, Thailand,
and Holland, some of the
on the railroad. Many survivors

and victims’ relatives visit
Kanchanaburi each year.
Accommodations here
include riverside raft houses.
Z Kanchanaburi War Cemetery
Saeng Chuto Rd. Open daily.
Z Chong Kai Cemetery
Ban Kao Rd. Open daily.
E JEATH War Museum
Wisuttharangsi Rd. Tel 0­3451­1263.
Open 8am–6pm daily. &
E Thailand-Burma Railroad
Center
73 Jaokunneu Rd. Tel 0­3451­2721.
Open 9am–5pm daily. &
∑ tbrconline.com
Farmers cultivating crops in the hills around
Kanchanaburi
7 Chaloem
Rattanakosin
National Park

Kanchanaburi province. Park HQ off
Hwy 3086, 60 miles (97 km) NE of Kan­
chanaburi. n TAT (0­3451­1200); Forestry
Dept (0­2562­0760, 0­3454­7020 or
∑ dnp.go.th for bungalow bookings).
@ from Kanchanaburi to Nong Preu,
then songthaew. Open daily. &
This beautiful and isolated
national park is one of Thailand’s
smallest, at just 23 sq miles
(59 sq km). The main trail
runs beside a stream which
passes through a cavern, Tham
Than Lot Noi, to emerge in a
thickly forested, steep­sided
ravine. The path continues for
8,200 ft (2,500 m), climbing
steeply beside the Trai Trung
falls to Tham Than Lot Yai, a
limestone sinkhole, and a small
Buddhist shrine. On weekday
mornings you may find that
you are the only visitor in this
delightful spot.
SOUTH CENTRAL PLAINS  175
The Bridge Over the Khwae Yai River and the
Burma-Siam Railroad
The first railroad bridge over the Khwae Yai River, near
Kanchanaburi, was built of wood, using Allied and Asian slave
labor. In 1943 it was abandoned for an iron bridge, which was
repeatedly bombed and damaged by the US Army Air Force from
late 1944 on. In 1945, after only a short period in service, the
bridge was put out of commission. After the war this infamous
river crossing was immortalized in David Lean’s movie, The Bridge
on the River Kwai (1957).
The bridge was part of an immense project, the 255­mile
(414­km) Burma­Siam Railroad, conceived by the Japanese after
the Allies blockaded sea routes in 1942. It ran from Nong Pladuk,
30 miles (50 km) southeast of Kanchanaburi, to Thanbyuzayat near
the coast in Burma. Built under appaling conditions, it operated for
only two years. Around 60,000 Allied prisoners of war and 300,000
Asian laborers were forced to work 18­hour shifts on its
construction, with many
losing their lives to
cholera, malaria,
malnutrition, and most
tragically to mal­
treatment. It is said that
one man died for each tie
laid. One reason for the
brutal regime was that
the Japanese followed a
samurai code. They Painting by prisoner of war in the JEATH War
despised the disgrace of Museum, Kanchanaburi
surrender and treated
the Allied prisoners of war as if they had forfeited all human rights.
The present­day bridge at Kanchanaburi was rebuilt, as part of
Japanese war reparations, with two girders from the Japan Bridge
Company of Osaka.
It has now become a
place of pilgrimage
for veterans.
Kanchanaburi has
two cemeteries and a
museum, the latter, in
particular, presenting
a moving evocation
of this harrowing
episode of World
War II history.
Prisoners of war on the wooden bridge over the
Khwae Yai River (c.1942–3)
The beautifully tended Chong Kai Cemetery, Kanchanaburi
176  THE CENTRAL PLAINS
The Chinese shrine of San Chao Pho, Suphan Buri
8 Suphan Buri

Suphan Buri province. * 111,000.
£ @ n TAT, Suphan Buri (0-3553-
6030); TAT, Ayutthaya (0-3524-6077).
_ Don Chedi Fair (Jan 25).
Suphan Buri came to
prominence with the rise of
Ayutthaya in the 14th century.
The attractive art and archi-
tecture of the town are known
to few tourists.
Near the center of town is the
beautiful prang of Wat Phra Si
Rattana Mahathat, restored in
the Ayutthaya period and again
in the 20th century. At Wat Pa
Lelai, on the edge of Suphan
Buri, is a Buddha image from the
Dvaravati period (see pp60–61).
To the east is San Chao Pho Lak
Muang, a Chinese shrine. Wat
Phra Rup, on the other side of
the Suphan Buri River, houses a
reclining Buddha image and a
carved wooden Footprint of the
Buddha. The bot of nearby Wat
Pratu San contains striking
19th-century murals of the
Buddha’s life.
Environs
The large white monument of
Don Chedi, 20 miles (31 km)
from Suphan Buri, marks the
site of the Battle of Nong Sarai,
between the Burmese and Thai
forces led by King Naresuan
(see p66). The U Thong National
Museum houses 6th- to
11th-century Dvaravati artifacts
and Khmer art.
E U Thong National Museum
4 miles (7 km) SW of Suphan Buri.
Open Wed–Sun. &
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
9 Ang Thong

Ang Thong province. * 41,600.
@ n TAT, Ayutthaya (0-3524-6077).
( daily.
This small town is a useful base
from which travelers who are
interested in Thai images of the
Buddha can visit three little
known but rewarding sites
nearby. To the south of Ang
Thong, Wat Pa Mok houses
a reclining Buddha image
from the 15th century.
Wat Khun In Pramun is
to the northwest. In its
grounds is a huge
reclining Buddha image,
about 165 ft (50 m)
long, dating from the
Ayutthaya period. Bell, Phra
At Wat Chaiyo Wora Phutthabat
Wihan, to the north of
Ang Thong, a wihan houses a
third enormous, seated image
of the Buddha from the Ratta-
nakosin period, called the Phra
Maha Phuttha Phim.
Wat Pa Mok, which houses a 15th-century
Buddha, near Ang Thong
0 Lop Buri

See pp178–9.
q Phra Phutthabat

Saraburi province. n TAT, Ayutthaya
(0-3524-6077); TAT, Saraburi (0-3642-
2768). @ from Saraburi, then samlor.
Open 7am–6pm daily.
_ Phra Phutthabat Fair (Mar).
In the early 17th century, King
Song Tham of Ayutthaya sent a
group of monks to Sri Lanka to
pay homage to a Footprint of the
Buddha. (According to legend,
these Footprints show where the
Lord Buddha walked upon the
Earth.) The monks were surprised
to be told by the Sri Lankans that,
according to scriptures, there was
a Footprint in Thailand. Song
Tham, on hearing this, ordered
a search for the Footprint.
It was found by a hunter
pursuing a wounded deer –
the animal vanished into
the undergrowth only to
re-emerge healed. On
closer inspection, the
hunter found a water-filled
pool shaped like a
footprint. He drank from it
and was miraculously
cured of a skin disease.
The king, on learning of
this, had a temple built
on the site, which subsequently
became one of the most sacred
places of worship in Thailand.
Today, the 5-ft (1.5-m) long
Footprint, Phra Phutthabat, lies in
an ornate mondop, restored in
the late 18th century after the
earlier buildings were destroyed
by the Burmese in 1765. A
museum here displays offerings
by pilgrims, who flock to the sight
each year. Phra Phutthabat is also
the name of the small town here.
Environs
At Phra Phutthachai (“Buddha’s
shadow”), about 25 miles
(40 km) southeast of Phra
Phutthabat, a faint Buddha
image, probably painted by a
hermit, adorns a cliff face.
Pilgrims often visit this site on
their way to Phra Phutthabat.
 SOUTH CENTRAL PLAINS  177

Gestures of the Buddha

Buddha images throughout Thailand for the most part follow strict rules laid down in the
3rd century AD. There are four basic postures: standing, sitting, walking, and reclining;
the first three are associated with daily activities of the Buddha, the last with the Buddha’s
final moments on Earth as he achieved nirvana. These postures can be combined with
hand and feet positions to create a variety of attitudes (mudras), that represent key
Buddhist themes. King Rama III (1824–51) drew up a list of 40 attitudes to be used by
sculptors, but many of these are rare. Most images in Thailand represent a dozen or so
attitudes, the seated image in bhumisparsa mudra occurring most frequently.

Touching the Earth

Exposition (vitarkha Bhumisparsa is the most common
mudra) symbolizes the mudra. It symbolizes an important
first public discourse episode in the Buddha’s life when he
given by the Buddha, to sat in meditation under a Bodhi tree in
five ascetics in a deer Bodh Gaya, India, refusing to move until
park in India. On he attained Enlightenment. While his
this Sukhothai-era enemy, Mara, offered temptations
image, the thumb such as nubile maidens and
and forefinger feasts, the Buddha touched the
form a circle – the ground to attract the attention
turning of the “Wheel
of the Earth goddess, so that
of Law” (see p35).
she could see his resistance.
Just after this he achieved
Enlightenment.

Right hand pointing to Left hand resting Legs in lotus

the Earth in lap position
Reassurance
Meditation (dhyana mudra) is (abhaya mudra)
signified with a sitting posture, symbolizes the
shown by this modern Buddha Buddha’s offer of
image from Southern Thailand. protection to his
Both hands are positioned followers. The raised
palms up, the right over right hand is also
the left, as still practiced representative of an
by meditating Buddhists. episode in which the
Buddha settled
a heated dispute
over water.

Reclining Buddhas, such as this one at

Restraining the Ayutthaya, usually represent
waters is a variation of the point of parinirvana
abhaya mudra. The two or ultimate nirvana.
hands of this Ayutthayan
Buddha image are held
palms forward, fingers
pointing upward. It refers
to an episode when the
Buddha calmed the
floodwaters of the
Nairanjana, a tributary of the
Ganges in northern India.
178  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

0 Street-by-Street: Lop Buri


Wat Sao Thong
One of Thailand’s oldest cities, Lop Buri Thong
was known as Lavo in the Dvaravati period The wihan at this
(see pp60–61) and subsequently became wat was modified
by King Narai so the
an important outpost of the Khmer Empire buildng could be
(see pp268–9). The Khmer prang on the used as a Christian
grounds of Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, chapel – he
and those of Prang Sam Yot, date from this replaced Thai
windows with
time. With the decline of the Khmer Empire Western-style
and the rise of the Sukhothai Kingdom Gothic designs.
(see pp62–3), Lop Buri struggled to retain
its independence, until, in the 14th century,
it was linked by marriage to the emerging W
IC
state of Ayutthaya (see pp66–7). It reached its HA
Y EN
political peak in the 17th century, when the

M
Ayutthayan King Narai (1656–88) preferred

CE
RA
to stay at Lop Buri rather than his official

AN
A
palace at Ayutthaya. Today, the thriving
AR

FR
modern town of Lop Buri lies to the east
PH

E
D
of the old city.

E
RU
RA
The market sells T CH
AD
vegetables and AM
other foodstuffs. NO
EN

K
SA
RA

PR
AT
SO

UC
HA
I R
D

. King Narai’s Palace

Abandoned after Narai’s death,
. Somdej Phra Narai National Museum
parts of the palace, including the
This museum is housed in the partially
Chanthara Phisan Hall, were later
restored, colonial-style Phiman Mongkut
restored by King Mongkut (see p69).
Hall of King Narai’s Palace. It has a superb
collection of Lop Buri Buddha images,
and collections of Dvaravati, Khmer,
and Ayutthayan art.

Key
Suggested route

0 meters 75

0 yards 75

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 SOUTH CENTRAL PLAINS  179

Phaulkon Residence VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This house was built by King
Narai for his favored minister,
the Greek Constantine Phaulkon.
Phaulkon encouraged Narai to
forge close ties with the French,
often excluding other foreigners,
though his motive was perhaps to
aid Louis XIV’s attempt to convert
Narai to Christianity. When this
came to light it alarmed the
Ayutthayan court and Phaulkon
was executed (see p167).
Practical Information
Tel 0-3641-1458. Lop Buri
province. * 165,000. n TAT,
Naraimaharat Rd, Amphoe
Mueang (0-3677-0096-7). (
daily. _ King Narai Festival (Feb).
Somdej Phra Narai National
Museum: Open 9am–4pm Wed–
Sun. Closed public hols. & King
Narai’s Palace: Open daily. &
Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat:
Open daily. & = Phaulkon
Residence: Open daily.
Transport
£ Na Phra Kan Rd. @ Phra
Narai Maharat Rd.

Prang Khaek
This Hindu shrine has three brick
towers. It is believed by some to
date as far back as the 8th century.

W
IC
H
AY
EN

RA
T CH
AD
AM
NO
PH EN
RA
YA
M
CH
AM
KA
T
AT

. Prang Sam Yot

W

NA
W The Lop Buri style was a variation by local artisans, of
NG

AT already established Khmer art and architecture; this

LA

shrine is archetypal. The three prangs were originally

consecrated as a Hindu shrine; Buddha images were
To train station added later to two of them.

. Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat

This wat complex encloses ruins from two
distinct eras. At its center is a 12th-century,
Khmer prang, decorated with finely detailed
stucco work. The site also includes
Ayutthayan chedis and a wihan
added by King Narai.
180  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

w Ayutthaya

The city of Ayutthaya was founded around 1350 by
Ramathibodi I (1351–69), who came here to escape an outbreak
of smallpox at Lop Buri. By the early 15th century Ayutthaya had
become a major power. Sukhothai (see pp62–3) fell to Ayutthaya
in 1438. Western traders arrived in the early 16th century (see
pp166–7), and wrote vivid accounts of Ayutthaya’s splendor.
In the early 18th century, after years of war, decline set in,
and in 1767 the Burmese sacked the city. Today, the ruins
stand among the modern buildings of the provincial town.
 Wat Phra Mahathat the crypt in 1957 and escaped
 with a huge cache of gold
Corner of Cheekun Rd and Naresuan artifacts, only a few of which
Rd. Open daily. & were recovered. A narrow
Wat Phra Mahathat is one of staircase descends to the
the largest and most important crypt where visitors can see
wat complexes in Ayutthaya. the remains of Ayutthayan
It was almost certainly founded frescoes (see p64).
in the late 14th century by
King Borommaracha I (1370– E Chan Kasem Palace
88). Other buildings were 
subsequently added by Uthong Rd, opposite the night
his successor, Ramesuan market. Open Wed–Sun. &
(1388–95). In the northeast corner of the
main island stands the Chan
Kasem Palace or Wang Na.
It was built in 1577 by the
illustrious Naresuan, the son
of King Maha Thammaracha
(1569–90), before he became
king. When Naresuan came to
the throne in 1590, the palace
became his permanent
residence. The buildings seen
today, however, date from the
reign of King Mongkut (1851–
68), as the palace was razed by
the Burmese in 1767. It houses
a large collection of Buddha
images and historical artifacts.
Behind the Chan Kasem Palace
is the Pisai Sayalak Tower,
European-style Pisai Sayalak Tower, behind once used as an astronomical
the Chan Kasem Palace observatory by King Mongkut.
Stucco and brick singhas around the main
chedi of Wat Thammikarat
 Wat Thammikarat

Uthong Rd. Open daily. &
At this picturesque site are the
dilapidated remains of a large,
early Ayutthayan, octagonal
chedi surrounded by stucco and
brick lions, or singhas. Beside
the chedi is the ruin of a wihan,
slowly succumbing to weeds
and trees. A beautiful U Thong
Buddha head recovered from
here is now in the Chao Sam
Phraya National Museum
(see p182).
E Wang Luang

Uthong Rd. Open daily. &
To the west of Wat Thammikarat
is Wang Luang, the northern
extension of the royal palace
built by King Borommatrailokanat
(1448–88) in the mid-15th
century. Successive monarchs
added a number of pavilions
and halls. Wang Luang was
razed by the Burmese in 1767.
The best preserved of the
former royal palace buildings
is the Trimuk Pavilion. It
was built during the reign

 Wat Ratchaburana

Cheekun Rd. Open daily. &
Across the road from Wat
Mahathat is Wat Ratchaburana,
its prang now restored. It was
built in the early 15th century
by King Borommaracha II
(1424–48) on the cremation
site of his two brothers, who
died in a power struggle. Both
had wanted to succeed their
father, Intharacha I (1409–24),
to the throne. Robbers looted 19th-century Trimuk Pavilion, on the grounds of Wang Luang
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 AY U T T H AYA  181

of King Chulalongkorn his son, Ramesuan. The VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

(1868–1910) on the site of
earlier foundations.
 Wat Phra Si Sanphet
See pp182–3.
 Wihan Phra Mongkhon
Bophit

Si Sanphet Rd. Open daily. &
This wat contains one of
Thailand’s largest bronze
Buddha images. Now
gilded, it probably dates
from the late 15th century,
though it has undergone
numerous restorations.
In 1767 Burmese invaders
destoyed much of the wihan
and damaged the image’s
head and right hand. The
image was left open to the
sky until the 1950s, when
the wihan was rebuilt.
 Wat Phra Ram

Si Sanphet Rd. Open daily. &
A chronicle relates that Wat
Phra Ram was built in 1369
on the cremation site of King
Ramathibodi (1351–69) by
elegant prang visible today,
however, is the result of Practical Information
later renovation by King * 60,900. n TAT, 108/22
Borommatrailokanat Mu 4, Tambon Phratuchai
(1448–88). The prang is Amphoe, Ayutthaya.
decorated with garudas, (0-3524-6076). ( daily.
nagas, and walking Buddha Transport
images. Surrounding the £ Off Bang Ain Rd.
prang are wihans and a bot. @ Naresuan Rd. 4.
The wat casts beautiful and
photogenic reflections in
the nearby lily ponds.
 Wat Lokaya Sutharam

W of main island. Open daily. &
This wat is the site of a 140-ft
(42-m) long, whitewashed
reclining Buddha image.
Large Buddha images such
as this do not always depict
the Buddha’s death, but
sometimes, as in this instance,
an occasion when the Buddha
grew 100 times in size to
confront the demon Rahu.
The image now lies in the
open air, the original wihan,
having been destroyed by the
Burmese; 24 octagonal pillars
are all that remain of this
15th-century, corncob-shaped prang at wihan. The wat also houses
Wat Phra Ram the ruins of a bot and chedis.

Ayutthaya Town Center

1 Wat Lokaya Sutharam 0 Wat Ratchaburana y Wat Phutthaisawan
2 Wang Luang q Wat Suwan Dararam u Wat Phanan Choeng
3 Wat Thammikarat w Chan Kasem Palace i Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
4 Wat Phra Si Sanphet e Wat Na Phra Men
5 Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit r Wat Chai Watthanaram
6 Wat Phra Ram t St. Joseph’s Church Hua Raw
7 Chao Sam Phraya National Museum Night Market

8 Ayutthaya Historical Wat Phu

Khao Thong Wat Na
Study Center Chan Kasem
Pa

Phra Men
Lo p b u r i NG Palace
sak

9 Wat Phra Mahathat HO

UT PA M A P R AO
Wat Wat Kuti Dao,
Trimuk Pavilion Thammikarat Wat Maheyong,
Wat Ratchaburana Wat Pradu Songtham
Wang Luang
NARESUAN
K H LO NG M A KH A MR I ANG

Wat Lokaya Wat Phra

CH EE KU N

UTHONG

Sutharam Si Sanphet
SUPHAN BURI, Wihan Phra Wat Phra
ANG THONG, Mongkhon Bophit Mahathat
Elephant Kraal
Wat Phra Train
Ram PAT O N E Station
PAT O N E
NG

Chao Sam Phraya

HO

National Museum
ROTCHANA PRI DI D AM R O N G BRI D GE
UT

SI SANPHET
K H LO N G T H O

Wat Suwan Northern Bus Terminal

Ayutthaya Historical 1 mile (2 km)
Dararam
Study Center
ya
Wat Chai
P hra
Watthanaram
ao Phom Phet Fortress Wat Yai Chai
Ch Mongkhon
G
H ON Wat Phanan
UT Choeng
Ban Yipun,
BANGKOK
Wat
St. Joseph’s Phutthaisawan 0 meters 250
Church
0 yards 250

For keys to symbols see back flap

182  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

E Chao Sam Phraya Wat Phra Si Sanphet

National Museum 

Intersection of Rotchana Rd and Si Founded by King Borommatrailokanat during the
Sanphet Rd. Open Wed–Sun. & 15th century as a state temple, Wat Phra Si Sanphet was
Among the exhibits later added to by his son, Ramathibodi II, who built two
here is a small
chedis to house the relics of his father and brother.
collection of
gold artifacts, The third chedi was built by Borommaracha IV to house
including a jewel- the remains of Ramathibodi II. The site was extended by
encrusted sword, subsequent rulers until the Burmese sack of 1767
gold slippers, (see pp64–5). Partially renovated in the 20th century,
and jewelry. many of its treasures are now kept in museums.
Discovered in the
crypt of Wat
Ratchaburana’s The Prasat Phra Narai The ashes of Ramathibodi II
Deity on wooden was cruciform in shape. (1491–1529) are enshrined in
central prang
door-panel All that remains of it this chedi, built in the mid-16th
when it was today are the century by Borommaracha IV.
looted in 1957, they are among foundations.
the few items from the wat to
have survived the sack of
Ayutthaya by the Burmese
(see pp64–5). Other artifacts
include bronze Buddha images
and wooden door panels from
wats around Ayutthaya.

E Ayutthaya Historical
Study Center

Rotchana Rd. Open daily. &
This study center houses
interesting audiovisual displays
depicting Ayutthaya’s history
and trading relations. There is
also a reconstructed model of
Wat Phra Si Sanphet. Another
part of the study center stands
in what was the Japanese quarter
at the time when Ayutthaya
was at the height of its power. Reconstruction
Overgrown with weeds and trees until
 Wat Suwan Dararam the beginning of the 20th century, Wat Phra
 Si Sanphet is still a ruin, albeit partially restored.
Near Pomphet. Open daily. This artist’s impression gives an idea of its glory
This temple was completely before it was sacked.
destroyed by the Burmese but
later rebuilt by Rama I (1782–
1809). The ubosot is usually
locked, but it is worth requesting
the key to see the murals
commissioned by Rama VII
(1925–35), depicting scenes Drawing of Chedis
from the time of King Naresuan. Lying empty after it was
Among them is a mural of the sacked by the Burmese,
Battle of Nong Sarai, which was Ayutthaya became the
fought against the Burmese in focus of scholarly interest.
1593 (see p66). Henri Mouhot, who drew
Nearby to Wat Suwan this image, was one of
many late 19th-century
Dararam is a section of the old
visitors. Wat Phra Si
city defenses, Phom Phet, which
Sanphet has been under
were a strategically important the protection of the Thai
lookout post over the Chao Fine Arts Department
Phraya River. since 1927.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 AY U T T H AYA  183

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Si Sanphet Rd, Ayutthaya.
Open 9am–5pm daily. &

Wooden Door
This door was
probably once
situated in the
entrance to Wihan
Phra Si Sanphet and
dates from the reign
of Ramathibodi II.
A collection of such
doors is displayed
in the Chao Sam
Phraya Museum.

Three Chedis
Apart from the ashes of kings, caskets of precious
Buddha images and royal regalia were buried in
the chedis’ central chambers. Entrance to Chedi
The entrance chamber
The ashes of Borommaracha III to the chedi is a scaled-
(1463–88), the brother of down version of a
Ramathibodi II, are buried Khmer mandapa
in this chedi. (entrance chamber to a
Khmer sanctuary).
Ayutthayan builders
modified many older
architectural features,
such as Khmer prangs
and Sri Lankan bell-
shaped chedis.

The ashes of Boromma­

trailokanat (1448–88) are
buried in this chedi, the
only one to survive the
Burmese sack. The
other two had to
be restored.

Stairway leading
to entrance of
hollow chedi

A Footprint of the
Lord Buddha was
housed in this
elegant, spired
mondop. Wihan Phra Si Sanphet
The main wihan – the entrance
to the wat – once housed the
principal Buddha image of
Phra Si Sanphet.
184  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

Exploring Ayutthaya: The Outer Sites  Wat Chai Watthanaram


The central island of Ayutthaya stands at the confluence W bank of Chao Phraya River, SW of
of the Chao Phraya, Lop Buri, and Pasak rivers. The town’s main island. Open daily. &
This wat was built by King
most imposing sites are to be found on the central island.
Prasat Thong in 1630. The
However, a short samlor ride by bridge over any of the central prang is surrounded by
rivers, which more or less encircle it, will bring you to eight smaller ones, decorated
many more sites of interest. Wat Na Phra Men is one of with stucco reliefs depicting
Ayutthaya’s most beautiful wats, and St. Joseph’s Church images such as the Buddha
offers a glimpse of Ayutthaya’s connections with Western preaching to his mother in the
Tavatimsa Heaven. All the
trading powers (see pp166–7) during the city’s heyday. prangs have been restored.
The main part of modern Ayutthaya sprawls to the east
of the island, over the Pasak River and beyond. 5 St. Joseph’s Church

SW of main island on the Chao Phraya
River. Open daily.
St. Joseph’s, overlooking the
Chao Phraya River, has been
the site of Catholic worship for
over 300 years. The original
17th-century structure was
destroyed by the Burmese in
1767. The present church was
built during the 19th century.

A roundup of wild elephants at the elephant kraal (1890)
 Wat Na Phra Men

Opp Royal Palace, nr Muang Canal.
Tel 0-3525-2163. Open daily. &
Across a bridge to the north of
the main island is Wat Na Phra
Men, one of the most beauti-
ful of Ayutthaya’s monasteries,
and one of the few to survive
the Burmese sacking of the city
in 1767 (see pp64–5). Thought
to date from the reign of
Intharacha II (1488–91), it
was restored during the
reign of King Borommakot
(1733–58), and again in the
mid-19th century. In the wihan
is a Dvaravati seated Buddha
image, Phra Kanthararat,
that was moved here from
Nakhon Pathom in the mid-
16th century. The murals
covering the wihan walls
have now almost completely
disappeared. Its doors are
from the early 19th century.
In the adjacent bot is a gilded
Buddha image, probably
from the reign of King Prasat
Thong (1629–56).
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
E Elephant Kraal

NW on Hwy 309. Open daily. &
Farther to the north is the
elephant kraal. It is thought that
the original structure, built by
King Yot Fa (1547–8), stood
within the confines of the old
city wall. The present kraal, built
later, was in use well into the
19th century – wild elephants
would be driven here for
training as pack animals or war
mounts for senior officers.
In the middle of the stockade is
a shrine where the elephant
guardian is thought to live.
 Wat Phu Khao Thong

1 mile (2 km) NW on Hwy 309.
Open daily. &
To the west, the original chedi
of Phu Khao Thong was
constructed by King
Bayinnaung of Burma to
celebrate his capture of
Ayutthaya in 1569. Additions
were made in 1744–5 by the
Thai King Borommakot.
 Wat Phutthaisawan

S of main island. Open daily. &
East from St. Joseph’s is Wat
Phutthaisawan, also located
on the riverbank. It has a
restored 14th-century prang
surrounded by a cloister filled
with Buddha images.
 Wat Kuti Dao

E of railway station. Open daily. &
This wat originally dated from
the early Ayutthaya period, but
the ruins here today are of an
18th-century renovation by
King Phumintharacha. The chedi
is flanked by a wihan and a bot
with distinctive arched
windows and doors.
Bell-shaped chedi, part of the ruined
Wat Kuti Dao

Reclining Buddha in a ruined wihan at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
 Wat Pradu Songtham

N of railroad station, E of main island.
Open daily.
Inside the wihan of Wat Pradu
Songtham are the remains of
murals dating from the early
Rattanakosin period (see p39).
These recount the life of the
Buddha and also show images
of daily life, including one
of a performance of the
Ramakien at a fair. Outside is
a bell tower topped by a
small chedi from the late
Ayutthaya period.
e Bang Pa-in

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya province.
* 59,000. £ @ 4 n TAT,
Ayutthaya (0-3524-6076). ( daily.
∑ palaces.thai.net
Visitors to Bang Pa-in stop off,
for the most part, just to visit
Bang Pa-in Palace, whose
exuberant 19th-century
buildings stand in stark contrast
to nearby Ayutthaya. It is
thought that a royal palace
was first built at Bang Pa-in by
King Prasat Thong (1629–56),
to mark the birth of his son
and successor, King Narai.
With the defeat of Ayutthaya
by the Burmese in 1767 the
site fell into ruin; the present
buildings date from the reigns
of Mongkut (1851–68) and
Chulalongkorn (1868–1910).
The beautiful pavilion, Phra
Thinang Aisawan Thipha-at
(“divine seat of personal
freedom”), at the center of an
 Wat Maheyong

E of main island. Open daily.
The partially reconstructed
ruins of Wat Maheyong date
from the reign of King
Borommaracha II (1424–48).
The principal, bell-shaped
chedi shows a clear stylistic
link with earlier Sukhothai
chedis, while all around the
rectangular base are the
remnants of stucco
elephants. Other chedis at
this site also show
Sukhothai influence.
ornamental lake, was built for
Chulalongkorn in 1876,
together with the Phra Thinang
Warophat Phiman (“excellent
and shining abode”), to the left.
Behind are the terra-cotta- and
white-striped lookout tower,
Ho Withun Thasana, built by
Chulalongkorn in 1881, and
the Chinese-style mansion,
Phra Thinang Wehat Chamrun,
The Phra Thinang Aisawan Thipha-at pavilion, Bang Pa-in Palace
A statue of Buddha at Wat Phra Mahathat in Ayutthaya Historical Park
AY U T T H AYA  185
 Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

E of main island. Open daily. &
The chedi here, one of the
largest in Ayutthaya, was built
by King Naresuan (1590–1605)
to celebrate his victory over the
Burmese at Nong Sarai in 1593
(see pp66–7). Flanking steps up
to the chedi are two mondops
housing seated Buddha
images. On the northeast side
of the wat is a ruined wihan
containing a reclining Buddha.
 Wat Phanan Choeng

S of main island. Open daily.
This wat has been renovated
over the years and houses the
large, 14th-century, seated
image of Phra Chao Phanan
Choeng. The wihan was built
in the mid-19th century.
E Ban Yipun

S of main island. Open daily. &
Once the site of a 17th-century
Japanese settlement, today a
museum here displays exhibits
that explain Ayutthaya’s foreign
relations at the time.
built as a gift for him by an
association of Chinese merchants
in 1889. Visitors can cross a canal
by cable car to Wat Niwet Tham
Prawat, which was built by
Chulalongkorn in 1877–8.
E Bang Pa-in Palace

Bang Pa-in district. Tel 0-3526-1548.
Open 8am–5pm daily. & 0
188  the central plains

r Khao Yai National Park


established in 1962, Khao Yai was then thailand’s sole
national park. today there are well over 100, but this
one remains popular. set over 770 sq miles (2,000 sq km),
the park has a wide variety of habitats, including
submontane evergreen forests and grasslands. there are
also several mountains of around 3,300 ft (1,000 m), White-Handed Gibbon
These tailless apes use their
including Khao Khieo. the abundant wildlife includes long arms to move swiftly and
many endangered mammals such as elephants, gibbons, agilely through the trees.
tigers and Malaysian sun bears, as well as more than
Saraburi
300 bird species. Visitors are advised to hire a guide
for trips to more remote parts. the surrounding
area offers luxurious resorts, golf courses,
and even vineyards.

• Elephant
salt lick
J J

Watchtower•
Watchtower•

• Radar
Endangered Species station
Khao Yai is home to about 20 of the 500 or so tigers Khao
left in Thailand. These noble animals can be found Khieo
surprisingly close to the park’s headquarters; 4,223 ft
visitors should treat them with respect. (1,287 m)

Bangkok

Nakhon Nayok •
Siamese Fireback Pheasant
Thailand’s national bird, this
pheasant spends its days on the
ground where it feeds on small
insects, seeds, and fruit. It roosts
in the trees at night.

0 kilometers 10

0 miles 10

Haeo Suwat Waterfall

Located along the upper reaches of the
Lam Takhong River, this waterfall is one
of many dotted around Khao Yai. From
March to May each year many varieties
of orchids can be seen flowering around
the waterfall. Elephants have been
known to drown while crossing near
waterfalls when the rains are very heavy.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 south central plains  189

Submontane ViSiToRS’ ChECKLiST

Evergreen Forest
This type of forest Practical Information
often contains Khorat, Nakhon Nayok, Saraburi
deciduous trees & Prachin Buri provinces. Park HQ
such as chestnuts. off Hwy 1, NE of Bangkok.
It grows at Khao Yai’s n TAT, Khorat (0-4421-3666);
highest altitudes, Park HQ (08-6092-6529); Forestry
3,300 ft (1,000 m) to Dept (0-2562-0760 or for
4,450 ft (1,351 m) bungalows). Closed in bad
above sea level. weather. & 8 0
∑ dnp.go.th

Transport
£ Pak Chong, then bus
Khorat
or songthaew.

Pak Chong
Sambar Stag
Sambar are the largest species of deer
in Thailand and are primarily forest
dwellers. Though hunted by tigers
and leopards, humans are its main
predator. It is now common only in
well-protected conservation areas.

Khao
Kamphaeng
3,196 ft (974 m)

Khao
Wong 479 ft Earthball Fungus
(146 m) This parasitic fungus is found in
humid evergreen forests all over
Southeast Asia. Unlike many
parasites, its presence actually
encourages the growth of its host.

Prachin buri

Key
Expressway
Major road
Minor road
Park border

KEY
1 Deciduous forest grows in the
park’s low-lying areas.
2 Semievergreen rainforest can
be seen above 1,950 ft (600 m).
Lam Takhong River
Rainfall in Khao Yai National Park is usually in excess of 120 inches
(3,000 mm) per year. Streams swollen by the rains flow off
forested slopes forming rivers, among them the Lam Takhong
River. Wildlife living around this river includes kingfishers,
cormorants, elephants, and macaques.
For keys to symbols see back flap
 THE CENTRAL PLAINS  191

NORTH CENTRAL
PLAINS
The farther north a visitor travels through the Central Plains, the
more sparsely populated the countryside becomes – the landscape
here is typified by gentle, rolling hills and rice farms. There are few
interesting modern cities in this region. Its major attractions are
ancient city ruins, relics of an illustrious past when competing
princedoms and city-states fought each other for land and power.

Visitors to Thailand traveling north from include the prosperous trading center
Bangkok tend not to stop off in the North Phitsanulok, which is at the heart of a
Central Plains, but instead press on to the transportation network connecting
major destination of Thailand’s second the region to Bangkok and the north.
city, Chiang Mai. However, some of the This, and other towns, support a local
most fascinating ruins in Southeast Asia rice-farming economy.
are found here. The hillier areas, in the west and
In the 13th century, during the reign of northeast of the region, are the setting for
King Ramkamhaeng (see pp62–3), one city, a number of national parks and wildlife
Sukhothai, came to dominate the region sanctuaries. These provide a much needed
to such an extent that its influence was refuge for endangered plant and animal
felt far beyond Thailand’s present borders. species (see pp32–3) whose habitats are
But its power was short-lived, and by the threatened by the impact of illegal
mid-14th century the region was once logging and the widespread loss of land
more a collection of fiefdoms. The ruins to agriculture.
the kingdom left behind at Sukhothai, and Around Mae Sot the influence of
at its satellite cities of Kamphaeng Phet Myanmar (Burma) is felt; the town is
and Si Satchanalai, still inspire wonder. characterized by Myanmar architecture,
They have been extensively restored and and a common sight is Karen and Shan
turned into well-managed historical parks. tribespeople and Myanmar who cross
Other places of interest in the region the border at this point to trade.

Farmer raking unhusked rice, a typical rural scene in the North Central Plains
Reclining Buddha and sitting Buddha at Wat Phra Kaeo, Kamphaeng Phet
192  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

Exploring the North Central Plains

This part of the country acts as a bridge between the
crowded heartland of modern Thailand to the immediate
south and the rolling hills of the North. The region has no
big cities, and most tourists do no more than overnight in Lampang
Si Satchanalai
small, provincial towns near the magnificent ruins of ancient
Sukhothai, the first Thai capital. Predominantly, this is rice- SI SATCHANALAI-
farming country, flanked to the east, north, and west by CHALIENG
hills. National parks in some of the hilly areas help protect HISTORICAL PARK
endangered flora and fauna. Magnificent forest scenery Pang Am

and spectacular waterfalls can be found along the

western border with Myanmar (Burma), around Mae
Sot and remote Umphang. Here, a hint of Myanmar Thung
Saliam
spills across the border in the shape of Karen
and Shan tribespeople and
Myanmar architecture,
goods, and food. Ban Tak
Khun SUKHOTHAI
Mae Tho
HISTORICAL PARK
Mae Ramat Ramkamhaeng
National Park
Taksin Maharat
National Park TAK Khao Luang
Mae La Mao 1785m

Lan Sang
National Park
MAE SOT Pi
ng Phran Kratai
Wang Chao
Mo

KAMPHAENG
ei

Lao Yang
Khlong PHET
Wang Chao
National
Park
Pin
NATIO
KHLO L PAR K

Khlong
Khao Kha Khaeng
NA
NG

2152m Khlung
LAN

Khlong Lan

Buddha under naga at Wat Chumphon UMPHANG

Khiri, Mae Sot Mae Wong
National Park
Umphang
Wildlife
Sanctuary

Key
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Railway
International border
Summit

Wat Traphang Thong, a monastery surrounded by a lotus-filled pond

at Sukhothai Historical Park
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 NORTH CENTRAL PLAINS  193

Wang
Pa Chun Khao Mua Ram
Uttaradit 1564m

Tron

Khao Thong
Takhan Tia 1247m
Phichai
Sawankhalok
Chat Trakan

Sukhothai Nakhon Thai Prang of Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat,

a 14th-century temple at Phitsanulok
Nan

Kong
Krailat Wat Bot
L U AN

PHITSANULOK
Wang
T HU

Thong Khao Kho

GN
NG

Bang Rakan Khon Kaen

AT
SAL AL P
ION
AE

Noen
NG R K

Maprang
A

Sai Ngam Phetchabun

Phichit Sak Lek
Khao Rang
1061m
Nong Khla

0 kilometers 25
Yom

Taphan
Hin Chon Daen 0 miles 25

Khao Sai Nong Lai

n
Na

Nong Phai
Chumsaeng
Banphot
Phisai Nong Bua
Getting Around
Saraburi
Sukhothai Historical Park
Lopburi is on the itineraries of many
Nakhon
Sawan tour companies. However, most
visitors use public transportation for
Bangkok
sights in the region. Phitsanulok, an
important transit hub, is the only
major town in the region served by
the regular train service connecting
Sights at a Glance Bangkok to the North. It also has a
1 Mae Sot
8 Phitsanulok small airport, as do Mae Sot and
2 Tak Sukhothai. Highway 1 passes through
9 Thung Salaeng Luang
3 Umphang National Park Kamphaeng Phet and Tak. Local buses
4 Khlong Lan National Park run to all towns, and a network of
5 Kamphaeng Phet main roads connects nearly all the
6 Sukhothai Historical Park pp198–201 sights. Only Umphang remains
7 Si Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical isolated, at the end of a spectacular,
Park pp202–4 winding road from Mae Sot.
For keys to symbols see back flap
194  THE CENTRAL PLAINS
Wat Chumphon Khiri, Mae Sot, Tak province
1 Mae Sot

Tak province. * 70,000. ~ @
n TAT, Tak (0-5551-4341). ( daily.
In the mid-19th century
Myanmar and Shan merchants,
crossing the Moei River from
Myanmar (Burma) in the west,
helped to establish Mae Sot
as a prosperous market town.
Trade in Myanmar hardwoods
and gemstones, both legal
and smuggled, has brought
considerable wealth to this
small town. Today Mae Sot
retains the feel of a frontier
town and makes a relaxing
stopover for travelers. Gem
traders, usually ethnic Chinese,
can often be seen huddled on
Reclining, Myanmar-style Buddha in the courtyard of Wat Thai Watthanaram, near Mae Sot
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
Mae Sot’s pavements,
negotiating with
buyers from Bangkok
and other parts of
Thailand. Because of its
location and trading
history, Mae Sot has a
distinct Myanmar
flavor, evident in
architecture and
market goods.
Trilingual shop signs
can be seen on the
streets, Myanmar-
language publications
are sold in shops, and
Myanmar people
wearing traditional
sarongs (lungis) can
be seen walking
along the streets.
During the morning
food market – one of Thailand’s
most picturesque and colorful –
Karen and Myanmar traders
haggle with Thais and Indians.
North of the market is Wat
Chumphon Khiri, which has a
magnificent Myanmar chedi
decorated with golden mosaic
tiles. On the southeast side of
town is the Muslim quarter; at
its center is the small Nurul
Islam Mosque.
Dotted around the town are
a number of other temples
that have both Karen and
Shan characteristics.
Environs
Some 2 miles (3 km) west of
Mae Sot is Wat Thai
Watthanaram. In the rear
courtyard is a huge, Myanmar-
style, reclining Buddha image
built in 1993 and a gallery of
28 seated Buddha images.
A further 1,100 yards (1,000 m)
beyond Wat Thai Watthanaram,
a bridge over the Moei River
links Mae Sot to the Myanmar
border town of Myawadi.
Clustered around the foot of
the bridge is a market selling
an odd mix of Thai, Myanmar,
Indonesian, and Chinese goods.
Southeast of Mae Sot are the
Pha Charoen falls, a very
popular spot for picnicking
and swimming.
Monks in the grounds of Wat Bot Mani
Sibunruang, Tak
2 Tak

Tak province. * 78,000. ~ @
n TAT, Taksin Rd, Tak (0-5551-4341).
( daily.
During much of the 13th
century, Tak was a western
outpost of the Sukhothai
Kingdom. After the death of

One of many waterfalls in the Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary
King Ramkamhaeng and the
subsequent collapse of the
Sukhothai Empire (see pp62–3),
the town came under the
influence of the Lanna Kingdom
(see pp66–7) to the north. Today
Tak sprawls along the left bank
of the Ping River, and much of
the Lanna influence can still be
seen in the teak houses hidden
away in quiet lanes at the
southern end of town. The
houses here date from the late
19th and early 20th centuries.
Wat Bot Mani Sibunruang
also shows Northern influences
with its finely decorated, Lanna­
style bot and a small sala
containing a much revered
Buddha image called Luang
Pho Phutthamon.
Nearby is a statue of King
Taksin, a former governor of Tak,
who, after the sacking of
Ayutthaya by Myanmar in 1767,
established a new capital at
Thon Buri, now part of Bangkok
(see pp68–9).
Environs
The 40­sq mile (105­sq km) Lan
Sang National Park has tracks
leading to several beautiful
waterfalls. These are best visited
during or soon after the rainy
season (see pp30–31); at other
times of year there is little water.
To the north of Lan Sang
National Park is the Taksin
Maharat National Park, the
highlight of which is a steeply
descending trail to the huge
ton krabak yai, or big krabak
NORTH CENTRAL PLAINS  195
3 Umphang

Tak province. * 23,000. @ Mae Sot,
then songthaew. n TAT, Tak (0­5551­
4341). ( daily.
Part of Umphang’s charm lies
in the journey, as the road from
Mae Sot is one of Thailand’s
most scenic. The village – its
population consisting largely
of Karen tribespeople – is
surrounded by the lush forests
of Umphang Wildlife
Sanctuary, rich in bird life and
small mammals. Umphang has
become popular for rafting,
hiking, and elephant treks, but
its isolation has kept most of the
tourist hordes away. Here too
tree, which is some 165 ft (50 m) are many cascades and rapids
tall, and has a girth of 50 ft (16 m). (including one of the country’s
The park offers bird­watching highest waterfalls, Thi Lo Su),
opportunities, and boasts such caves, and Karen settlements.
species as the tiger shrike and Several agencies in Umphang
forest wagtail. Also in the park or Mae Sot can arrange treks.
are the nine­tiered Mae Ya Pa falls. Visitors should avoid school
vacations, when this
O Lan Sang National Park region is crowded and
12 miles (20 km) W of Tak, off Hwy accommodations scarce.
105. Tel 0­5557­6080. &
O Taksin Maharat National Park O Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary
9 miles (15 km) W of Tak, off Hwy 105. 93 miles (150 km) S of Mae Sot on
Tel 0­5551­1429. n Forestry Dept Hwy 1090. n Forestry Dept (0­2562­
(0­2562­0760). & 0760). &
Thailand-Myanmar (Burma) Border Refugees
There are nine official refugee camps on Thailand’s western border,
including three main camps around Mae Sot–Mae La, Noe Po,
and Umpium. Together, these camps are home to about 100,000
Myanmar refugees. The Karen tribespeople, who have long
occupied an area straddling Myanmar and Thailand, are Myanmar’s
largest ethnic minority. The British were supposed to grant the
Karen an autonomous home­
land within Myanmar after
World War II, but this did not
happen. Following pro
democracy demonstrations
in Myanmar in 1988, and
the subsequent crackdown,
opposition MPs and ethnic
minorities fled east to refugee
villages. It is in such villages
that the Karen organize their
struggle for an independent
state. The Thai government does
not openly condemn Myanmar,
and the Thai army does not
usually intervene on behalf of
Boy soldiers in the rebel army of the the Karen.
Karen tribespeople For further information see
http://theborderconsortium.org.
196  THE CENTRAL PLAINS
Waterfall in Khlong Lan National Park, Kamphaeng Phet province
4 Khlong Lan
National Park

Kamphaeng Phet province. Park HQ
4 miles (6 km) off ˙Hwy 1117, S of
Kamphaeng Phet. Tel 0-5576-6002.
n TAT, Tak (0-5551- 4341); Forestry
Dept (0-2562-0760 inc bungalow
bookings). @ from Kamphaeng Phet
to Klonglan, then songthaew. &
∑ dnp.go.th
This 116-sq mile (300-sq km)
national park was formed in
1982. Formerly, the area was
controlled by Communist
insurgents, and inhabited by a
number of hill tribes. Initially,
the tribes lived within the park
but were later relocated
because they were regarded as
a threat to the wildlife, which
includes gaur, tiger, and the
Asiatic black bear.
The highlight of the park is
the Khlong Lan waterfall, which
is easily accessible from the
park headquarters. It falls 310 ft
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
(95 m) into a pool ideal for a
refreshing swim. At the foot of
the road leading up to the
waterfall is a small market
selling Hmong handicrafts –
a government rehabilitation
scheme for the hill tribes
relocated from the park.
The adjacent Mae Wong
National Park is good for hiking
and bird-watching. A tiger
conservation project run by the
WWF (www.wwf.or.th) is also
located here. Until the late
1980s it was populated by
Hmong, who have also been
relocated. The number of birds
and mammals is steadily
increasing. An old road running
through the center of the park,
now overgrown, makes a good
hiking trail. Simple bungalow
accommodation is also available.
O Mae Wong National Park
Park HQ SW of Kamphaeng Phet, off
Hwy 1117. n Forestry Dept (0-2562-
0760, inc bungalow bookings). &
∑ dnp.go.th
5 Kamphaeng Phet

Kamphaeng Phet province.
* 164,000. @ n TAT, Tak (0-5551-
4341). ( daily. _ Nop Phra-Len
Plang (Feb), Kluay Khai Muang
Kamphaeng (Sep).
There has been a settlement at
this site on the banks of the Ping
River since the 11th century,
when a northern prince, fleeing
an attack by Myanmar in the area
of present-day Fang (see p246),
brought his followers here. The
community initially survived
as an outpost of the Khmer
Empire (see pp60–61) and, during
the 13th century, as part of the
Sukhothai Kingdom.
On the east bank lie the
impressive remains of the Old
City, dating from the early
15th century, and which once
formed part of a satellite city to
the mighty Sukhothai (see pp198–
201). Located within its walls is
the Kamphaeng Phet National
Museum. In this collection are
several fine 16th-century
bronzes of Hindu deities,
including a standing image of
Shiva and torsos of Vishnu and
Lakshmi. There are also stucco
and terra-cotta fragments from
Kamphaeng Phet’s many ruins.
The Old City walls also enclose
two important ruins from the
late Sukhothai period. Close to
the National Museum, Wat Phra
Kaeo is the Old City’s largest site,
containing the ruins of several
wihans, a bot at the eastern end,
a chedi from the late Sukhothai
period, and the laterite cores of a
Renovated stone elephant at Wat Phra
Kaeo, Kamphaeng Phet

Kamphaeng Phet National Museum and surrounding gardens
number of Buddha images.
At the western end of the site
are three more partly restored
Buddha images. Neighboring
Wat Phra That has a fine late
Sukhothai, octagonal-based
chedi. One admission charge
covers all ruins in the Old City.
The modern town of
Kamphaeng Phet, for the most
part, sprawls to the south of the
Old City. It mostly comprises
commercial buildings, though
it also has a riverside park and
a few traditional wooden
houses, as well as some tourist-
oriented facilities.
A samlor ride northwest of the
Old City are the Aranyik Ruins,
the area of many forest wats
once used by a meditational
order called the Forest Dwelling
Sect. Built during the 14th to
16th centuries, the sheer
number of ruins at Aranyik
attest to the popularity of the
sect, which achieved
prominence in Thailand during
the Sukhothai era. With the
assistance of UNESCO, parts of
the site have now been restored
and landscaped.
The wihan at Wat Phra Non,
near the entrance, once
contained a large reclining
Buddha, but this is so badly
damaged as to be almost
indiscernible. Nevertheless, a
number of laterite columns from
the wihan are still standing. On
each side of the mondop at Wat
Phra Si Iriyabot are images of the
Buddha in different postures,
though all are damaged. The
standing Buddha on the west
side has been partially restored.
NORTH CENTRAL PLAINS
In the ruined bot of Wat Sing
(found in the northern part of
the Aranyik site) is the laterite
core of a Buddha image.
Most impressive of the Aranyik
wats is Wat Chang Rop,
consisting mostly of the remains
of a very large, square-based
chedi, flanked by the forequarters
of some elephants in laterite.
On a few of these, the original
stucco decoration has been
restored. However, little of the Sri
Lankan-style bell-shaped chedi is
still standing. Among two dozen
or so other sites dotted around
Aranyik, many of them scarcely
visible in thick undergrowth, Wat
Awat Yai is one of the few now
cleared of vegetation.
Kamphaeng Phet’s Historical Sites
Key
City walls
Tak Aranyik
•
Wat Phra Si
Iriyabot
Thung Setthi
Fort
•
Wat Phra Boromathat •
0 meters 500
0 yards 500
 197
In the modern part of town,
other monuments, such as the
Sukhothai brick chedi of Wat
Kalothai, can be seen tucked
away in quiet lanes. Many such
sites have now fallen into
disrepair, but their sheer
quantity is an indication of the
importance of Kamphaeng
Phet during the Sukhothai
and Ayutthaya periods.
West of the city, the large,
white, Myanmar-style chedi of
Wat Phra Boromathat was
built in the late 19th century
on the site of three 13th–
14th-century chedis, the
earliest of which was
constructed by King Si
Intharathit of Sukhothai
(c.1240–70) to house some
relics of the Lord Buddha.
Also to the west are the
laterite walls of Thung Setthi
Fort, which once protected
this side of the city.
E Kamphaeng Phet National
Museum
Old City, behind Wat Phra Kaeo.
Tel 0-5571-1570. Open 8:30am–4pm
Wed–Sun. Closed public hols. &
∑ finearts.go.th
 Aranyik Ruins
NW of Old City. Open daily. &
T Thung Setthi Fort
Off Hwy 1, W of town. Open daily.
Sukhothai
•
Wat Chang Rop
Wat Awat Yai •
• Wat Sing
• Wat Phra Non
Old City
• Wat Phra Kaeo
• Wat Phra That
•
Kamphaeng
Phet National
Museum
Wat Kalothai •
Nakhon Sawan
198  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

6 Sukhothai Historical Park Traphang Thong, which is

situated on an islet in a small
 lotus-filled lake. The Sri Lankan-
style chedi dates from the mid-
The UNESCO World Heritage site of Old Sukhothai lies to
14th century, and a small
the west of the modern town. It is a potent reminder of the mondop beside it enshrines
ancient Sukhothai Kingdom, which arose in the early a stone Footprint of the
13th century from what had been a distant outpost of the Buddha, still worshiped by
Khmer Empire. Under the leadership of the Tai warrior King resident monks.
Ramkamhaeng, the city came to dominate the Central Plains The Ramkamhaeng National
Museum houses photographs,
(see pp62–3). The abandoned city that can be seen today is taken around 1900–20, of
the best preserved and most popular sight in Central Thailand. Sukhothai’s ruins prior to
Ongoing restoration has revealed the amazing symmetry of renovation and a large collection
its layout and offers the visitor a remarkable insight into a of artifacts. At the heart of the
time when Thai art and culture reached its apex. moated city is Wat Mahathat

Exploring Sukhothai rice fields, and, beyond, forested

Historical Park
The site of Old Sukhothai has
around 40 temple complexes
spread over an area of about
28 sq miles (70 sq km). At its
center is the walled Royal City,
protected by moats and
ramparts. Many of the most
important ruins are within this
inner compound. The layout of
Old Sukhothai, as with many
major Thai cities (muangs),
follows fixed principles: a large,
central wat complex surrounded
concentrically by walls, river,
mountains. Another example
of this, on a smaller scale, is
Si Satchanalai (see pp62–3).
One way to see the ruins of
the Royal City is by bicycle: shops
beside the old east gate rent
them by the day for a small fee.
A quick test ride is advised as
some are in poor condition, and
an early start is recommended
to avoid the midday heat.
The Royal City
Entering from the east, the first Khmer-style, laterite prangs, part of
wat within the city walls is Wat Wat Si Sawai

Plan of Old Sukhothai

Wat Phra Phai Luang •

Wat Si Chum •

Tak

Wat Sorasak
•

• Wat Saphan HIn San Ta Pha Daeng

•
•

Wat Sa Si King Wat Chang Lom

•

Ramkamhaeng •

Wat Chana East Gate •

Monument
Songkhram •
Wat Traphang Thong
•

Wat Pa Mamuang
•
New Sukhothai
•
• Ramkamhaeng Phitsanulok
Wat Traphang National
• Wat Phra Yun Ngoen Wat Si Sawai
• Museum
•

Wat Chedi Sung

Key
Wat Mahathat (see pp200–1)
City walls
Information office 0 meters 500

0 yards 500 Wat Chetuphon

•

• Wat Chedi Si Hong

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33


Faćade of the Ramkamhaeng National Museum
(see pp200–1), the most
important wat complex
in Sukhothai.
Nearby, Wat Takuan has a
restored, Sri Lankan bell-
shaped chedi. Several Buddha
images found in the vault of
the chedi are thought to date
from the early Sukhothai
period, though they remain
something of a mystery.
To the southwest, at Wat
Si Sawai, are three 12th–
14th-century Khmer-style
prangs, thought to predate
the Tai takeover of the city.
The bot of Wat Traphang
Ngoen, mentioned in
Ramkamhaeng’s famous
Inscription No. 1 (see p62), lies
in an artificial rectangular lake.
Copper Buddha images
and Chinese pottery were
recovered from Wat Sa Si,
also at the center of an
artificial lake. These are now
in the Ramkamhaeng
National Museum.
Nearby, Wat Chana
Songkhram has a restored,
squat Sri Lankan-style chedi.
A smaller chedi here dates
from the Ayutthaya period.
To the north of Wat
Mahathat is the modern King
Ramkamhaeng Monument.
Beyond lies San Ta Pha Daeng,
a 12th-century Khmer
shrine that once housed
sandstone Hindu icons,
now in the Ramkamhaeng
National Museum.
Wat Sorasak, a small, brick,
bell-shaped chedi, dates
from the early 15th century.
The square base is supported
by 24 stucco elephants.
SUKHOTHAI  199
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Tel 0-5569-7241.
8 miles (13 km) W of New
Sukhothai, Sukhothai province.
n TAT, Sukhothai (0-5569-7367).
Open 6am–9pm daily (tickets
sold until 6pm). & = _ Loy
Krathong and Candle Festival
(Nov). Ramkamhaeng National
Museum: Open 9am–4pm Wed–
Sun. & Ticket (valid for 30 days)
permits entry to other historical
parks in Sukhothai.
Transport
~ @ New Sukhothai, then
songthaew.
East of the Royal City
Wat Chang Lom, a bell-
shaped chedi similar to one at Wat Si Chum has an immense
Si Satchanalai (see p204), has seated Buddha peering through
36 brick and stucco elephants an opening.
around its base. It represents
mythical Mount Meru,
supported by elephants. Beyond
is Wat Chedi Sung, a beautiful
chedi with a high, square base
typical of the late Sukhothai era.
North of the Royal City
Wat Phra Phai Luang, a Khmer-
style complex, is thought to
be part of the original mid-
13th century settlement, built
when this region was part of the
Khmer Empire. Only one of the
three laterite prangs, decorated
with stucco fragments, is Reconstructed stucco elephant heads at
extant. Nearby, the mondop of Wat Sorasak
Loy Krathong at Sukhothai
Loy Krathong (see p54) occurs at the November full moon to mark
the end of the rainy season and the main rice harvest. The festival
has its origins in the Hindu tradition of thanking the water god for
the rains. Krathongs, bowls fashioned out of banana leaves holding
lighted candles, are floated on water after dark. Though celebrated
all over Thailand, the most exuberant festivities take place at Old
Sukhothai. Nowadays, the festival includes folk dancing and sound-
and-light shows.
Loy Krathong festivities at the Sukhothai Historical Park
200  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

Wat Mahathat

Wat Mahathat was the spiritual center of the Sukhothai
Kingdom. The central chedi was founded by Si Intharathit
(c.1240–70), first king of Sukhothai, and rebuilt in the 1340s
by Lue Thai (1298–1346) to house relics of the Buddha.
Buildings were added to the complex by successive kings:
by the time it was abandoned in the 16th century it
had some 200 chedis as well as numerous
wihans and mondops.

. Lotus-Bud Chedi
At the epicenter of the wat
complex is this classic Sukhothai
lotus-bud chedi. The remains of
beautiful stucco decoration can
be seen in patches.

Multilayered Chedi
At the south end of a
minor wihan are the
crumbling remnants
of a large, square-based,
multi-layered chedi.
It is built out of brick.

. Frieze of Walking
KEY Monks
A stucco frieze runs
1 Octagonal chedi around the square base
2 Ornamental pond of the central group
of chedis. It depicts
3 Bell-shaped chedi monks processing
4 Perimeter wall around the shrine – a
ritual called pradaksina.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 S U K H O T H A I H I S T O R I C A L PA R K  201

Remains of Bot
Exploring the Outer Sights
To the north of the central
Along a low ridge of hills, around
chedi are the remains of a
bot, with a large, seated 2 miles (3.5 km) west of the
Buddha. Like all major ramparted royal city is another
Buddha images in string of ruins that form part of
Thailand, it faces east. the Sukhothai Historical Park.
Most important of these is
Wat Saphan Hin, where a
41-ft (12.5-m) high Buddha
image, Phra Attharot, similar to
the Buddha images of the same
name at Wat Mahathat, stands
on a low summit. There is another
large image, similar to Phra
Attharot, at Wat Phra Yun, though
the head and hands are missing.
Closer to the west city wall
is Wat Pa Mamuang, of arch-
0 meters 25
eological importance for the
0 yards 25 inscriptions discovered here
relating to King Lo Thai.
To the south are the ruins
of Wat Chetuphon, where a
mondop contains the remains of
four Buddha images (see p177);
two are in good condition, but
of the other two, one is missing
below the waist and the other
has virtually disappeared. At Wat
Chedi Si Hong, the base of the
laterite brick chedi is lined with
elephants and divinities.
Beyond the southern edge of
the Historical Park loom the hills
of Ramkamhaeng National
Park. Covering 133 sq miles
(342 sq km), this is home to
serow, gaur, and wild pig.

O Ramkamhaeng National Park

S of Sukhothai off Hwy 101.
Tel 0-5591-0000. n Forestry Dept
(0-2562-0760 inc bungalow bookings).
& ∑ dnp.go.th

. Phra Attharot Buddha Images

Flanking the central chedis are two
Buddhas, both known as Phra
Attharot – a literal reference to
their size – housed in mondops.

Remains of Wihan
Aligned on an east-west
axis with the central group
of chedis is the main
wihan. The only remains
today are columns that
once supported a roof and Farmer cultivating rice in the fields
a seated Buddha image. surrounding Sukhothai
202  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

7 Si Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical Park


During the 13th century, the Sukhothai Kingdom
consolidated its power in the Central Plains by building a
number of satellite cities. The most important of these was Si
Satchanalai. Today, its ruins lie on the right bank of the Yom
River, 4 miles (7 km) south of modern Si Satchanalai. One of
the best examples of a Thai muang (see pp62–3), it was laid
out along fixed cosmological lines – temple complexes lay
at its heart, surrounded by city walls, rivers, and forest. It is
considered by many historians to be the apogee of Thai city
planning. The nearby ruins of Chalieng are thought to be an
earlier Khmer settlement, an outpost of that empire dating
from the time of Jayavarman VII (1181–1220). At the height of
the Sukhothai Kingdom, Si Satchanalai was twinned with the
city of Sukhothai. A royal road, the Phra Ruang, linked the two. Laterite columns and central chedi at Wat
Nang Phaya

The Main Wats

The central, lotus-bud chedi of Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo
Exploring the Park
The ruins of Si Satchanalai are
not as grandiose as those of
Sukhothai but are in some ways
more interesting. They have not
been as extensively restored,
and fewer tourists visit the site.
The ruins evoke a once
powerful city that, although not
a seat of government of the
Sukhothai Kingdom, was the
city of the deputy king and an
important commercial center
in the 14th and 15th centuries.
Its most important trade was in
ceramics (see pp164–5), for
which it was renowned all over
Southeast Asia and China.
Today, the ruins at Si
Satchanalai cover an area of
roughly 18 sq miles (45 sq km)
and are surrounded by a moat
40 ft (12 m) wide. A good way
to tour the site is by bicycle;
there is a bicycle rental store
located halfway between
Si Satchanalai and Chalieng.
Visitors can also ride around
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
the ruined city on the back of
an elephant. An information
center located in front of the
Ram Narong Gate houses a
small exhibition of artifacts
found at the site and
photographs of Si Satchanalai’s
many monuments.
Sri Lankan Influence
During the Sukhothai period,
Theravada Buddhism, which
had developed independently
in Sri Lanka, arrived in Thailand.
With it came Sri Lankan, bell-
shaped chedis, reliquary towers
symbolizing the ringing out of
the teachings of the Buddha.
The three-tiered base symbolizes
hell, earth, and heaven; rings on
the spire represent the 33 levels
of heaven. A second layer of
symbolism designates the base
as the Buddha’s folded robes, the
stupa as his alms bowl and the
spire as his staff. The entire chedi Sri Lankan-style chedi of Wat Suwan Khiri,
also symbolizes Mount Meru.
At the heart of the moated city
a huge Sri Lankan-style, bell-
shaped chedi forms the
centerpiece of Wat Chang Lom
(see p204). To the south is Wat
Chedi Chet Thaeo, around whose
central lotus-bud chedi are many
smaller ones in different styles,
some containing stucco Buddha
images. One of these chedis is a
smaller version of the famous
lotus-bud chedi at Wat Mahathat
at Sukhothai (see pp200–1).
At Wat Nang Phaya, the wihan
is decorated with fine stucco
reliefs from the Ayutthaya period,
especially on the exterior. There
is also a Sri Lankan-style, 15th–
16th-century chedi. The wihan’s
grille-like windows here are also
characteristic of Ayutthaya, and
less complete examples of this
Ringed
spire Box-shaped
harmika
Three-
tiered Bell-shaped
stupa
base
overlooking Si Satchanalai
 S I S ATC H A N A L A I  203

style can be seen elsewhere Their pediments retain holes for VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
around the park. Nearby stands beams, suggesting that they
Wat Lak Muang, a small, Khmer- were once linked to other Practical Information
style shrine built as the city buildings. Inside one mondop 41 miles (67 km) N of New
foundation shrine. is a seated Buddha image. Sukhothai, Sukhothai province.
To the north are the kiln sites n Information Center (0-2250-
Minor Wats of Ban Pa Yuang and Ban Noi, 5500) or TAT, Phitsanulok (0-5525-
On a low, wooded hill north of where some of the finest 2743). Open 8:30am–4:30pm
daily. & =
Wat Chang Lom stands Wat Khao Sangkhalok ceramics were
Phnom Phloeng, once the site of produced. A sign of the times Transport
ritual cremations. Also among the is that villagers nearby sell @ from New Sukhothai to
ruins are a seated Buddha, a chedi, modern replicas to supplement Si Satchanalai, then samlor.
and a number of columns that their farming incomes.
once supported a wihan roof.
On a hill top, farther west, all Chalieng
that remains of Wat Suwan Khiri Situated 1,090 yards (1,000 m)
is a single chedi, though there to the southeast is the
are great views from here of the settlement of Chalieng,
rest of the city. predating the city of Si
Satchanalai and in all likelihood
Beyond the City Walls built by the Khmers (see pp268–
Farther west, on a mountain 9) as a staging post for travelers.
outside the city walls, is a row Some of the ruins that can be
of ruined monasteries reached seen today date from later.
by a shady path. At the top of The laterite shrine of Wat
the path is the large, ruined Chao Chan was built in the
chedi of Wat Khao Yai Bon. Bayon style as a Mahayana
There are many other minor Buddhist structure. The wihan Ancient kiln site, north of the walled city
ruins scattered inside and outside and mondop, now ruins, were at Ban Pa Yuang
the moated site, and while some added later and reflect a move
have been restored, others toward Theravada Buddhism. a huge Khmer-influenced,
comprise little more than the base Surrounded on three sides Ayutthayan prang, one of the
of a wihan or chedi. The mondop by a tight bend of the Yom finest structures of its type in
of Wat Hua Khon, for example, River, the most important of Thailand. Nearby, a seated
once contained seven stuccoed the Chalieng sites is Wat Phra Buddha, sheltered under the
standing Buddha images; today Si Rattana Mahathat, the head of a naga, sits inside a half
only three are still plainly buildings of which reflect a chedi. Also close by are remains
identifiable. North of the old Tao range of architectural styles of stucco reliefs of walking
Mo Gate is Wat Kuti Rai. There are from Sukhothai to Ayutthayan. Buddhas, said to be some of
two rectangular mondops here, The original Sukhothai lotus- the very finest examples of
both built entirely from laterite. bud chedi was built over with Sukhothai sculpture.

Si Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical Park

Key
Si Satchanalai
Ban Noi
City walls
•

Ban Pa Yuang •

Wat Kuti Rai

•
• 0 meters 500
Wat Hua Khon Tao Mo Gate
• 0 yards 500

•
•

Wat Suwan Khiri Wat Khao Phnom Phloeng

Sukhothai
Sawankhalok
• Wat Khao Yai Bon • Wat Chang Lom
•Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo
•

Yom Wat Phra Si

Wat Nang Phaya Wat Lak Muang
•
Rattana Mahathat
•

• Ram Narong Gate Wat Chao Chan •

(entrance to walled city)

Chalieng

For keys to symbols see back flap

204  THE CENTRAL PLAINS

Wat Chang Lom

 Tapered,
ringed spire
Built in the reign of Ramkamhaeng,
this monument is thought to be the first
Sri Lankan-style chedi of the Sukhothai
Kingdom. The style was later copied
throughout
Si Satchanalai
and Sukhothai.

Sri Lankan,
bell-shaped chedi A frieze of figures, believed
to be walking Buddha images,
is carved into the shaft just
below the ringed spire.

The trunks were probably

broken off by invading
Stucco elephants around the Burmese.
base of the chedi

Reconstruction
The staircase
of Wat Chang Lom
was used by pilgrims This shows the wat as it might
wishing to make the symbolic have looked in the Sukhothai era.
journey between earth and heaven.
It stood in the center of Si Satchanalai.

Exploring Sawankhalok where the Sawankha Exploring Si Satchanalai

With the introduction of new
firing techniques by Chinese
potters, the kilns around Si
Satchanalai and Sukhothai
became some of the most
important producers
of ceramics in
Southeast Asia.
At their most prolific,
during the 14th–
16th centuries, as the
Sukhothai Kingdom
came under the control
of the Kingdom of Sangkhalok
Ayutthaya, it is thought
that over 200 potteries
lined the banks of the Yom River. trade with India, China, the
They produced a variety of
pottery termed Sangkhalok – a
derivation of Sawankhalok, the
name that was given to Si
Satchanalai during the period of
Ayutthaya’s rule in the region.
Today the name applies only to
the small town of Sawankhalok,
Woranayok National Museum
is located. This houses an
expansive selection of Sangkhalok
ceramics (see pp164–5), which
includes plates, storage
jars, bowls, temple
roof tiles, figures
used in religious
ceremonies, and
everyday statues that
may have been toys.
A large number of the
ceramics on display were
salvaged from ships
pottery wrecked in the Gulf of
Thailand on their way to
Philippines, and Indonesia.
The museum also contains a
collection of religious sculptures
taken from Sawankhalok’s
nearby Wat Sawankharam –
many were donated to the
wat by the villagers who
unearthed them.
National Park
Founded in 1981, this park
covers an area of 82 sq miles
(213 sq km). Dotted around the
park are the Tad Dao, Tad Duen,
Huai Sai, and Huai Pa Cho
waterfalls. The Tara Wasan and
Kang Khao caves are also worth
visiting. The park is good for bird-
watching, with more than 70
species recorded. Though few
large mammals inhabit the park,
there may be a small number of
wild elephants living here.
E Sawankha Woranayok
National Museum
Sawankhalok, 11 miles (17 km) S of
Si Satchanalai. Tel 0-5564-1571.
Open Wed–Sun. &
O Si Satchanalai National Park
N of Si Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical
Park, off Hwy 101, (0-2562-0760 or
∑ dnp.go.th for bungalow bookings).
Tel 0-5591-0002. Open daily. &

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33


Green and ocher roof tiles at Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, Phitsanulok
8 Phitsanulok

Phitsanulok province. * 183,000.
~ £ @ n TAT, 209/7–8
Borommatrailokanat Rd, Phitsanulok
(0-5525-2742/3). ( Wed, Sat. _
Phra Buddha Chinarat (Jan/Feb),
Phitsanulok Boat Races (Oct).
Many visitors pass through
this town since it is an
important transport hub,
connecting Bangkok
and the Central Plains
to Northern Thailand.
There has been a
settlement here from
as early as the mid-
14th century, when
Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat
was built on the bank of the
Nan River. Initially, this wat
complex, also called Wat Yai,
probably housed a Sukhothai
lotus-bud chedi, which was later Chulamani. It was built by King
replaced by the tall Ayutthayan
prang that can be seen today.
It was built by the Ayutthayan
king Borommatrailokanat
(1448–88), who ruled from
Phitsanulok after 1463 in order
to wage a military campaign
against the Kingdom of Lanna
(see pp66–7). The golden tiles
on the antefixes of the wat
were added during a later
renovation by King
Chulalongkorn (1868–1910).
Inside the west wihan is the
revered Buddha image Phra
Phuttha Chinarat (see pp164–5),
made of gilded bronze and
dating from the 14th century.
It attracts pilgrims from all over
Thailand, and, consequently,
a small industry of religious
NORTH CENTRAL PLAINS  205
of his son. Eight months later he
returned to the throne; until his
death in 1488, he ruled
Ayutthaya from Phitsanulok.
E Sergeant Major Thawee’s
Folk Museum
26/43 Wisuth Kasat Rd. Tel 0-5521-
2749. Open 8:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun.
& Buddha Foundry: Open Mon–Sat.
9 Thung Salaeng
Luang National
Park
paraphernalia has grown up

around it. In the gallery outside Phitsanulok province, Park HQ off Hwy
the prang are dozens of Buddha 12, 50 miles (80 km) E of Phitsanulok.
images. Across the road, in the Tel 0-5526-8019. n TAT, Phitsanulok
bot of Wat Ratchaburana, are (0-5525-2742/3); Forestry Dept (0-
some faded 19th-century 2562-0760 or ∑ dnp.go.th for
murals, depicting scenes from bungalow bookings). @ from
the Ramakien (see pp44–5). Phitsanulok to Nakhon Thai, then
Sergeant Major Thawee’s songthaew. &
Folk Museum houses a
collection of rural folk With its open fields interspersed
crafts – wood and with forest, this 487-sq mile
bamboo animal traps, (1,262-sq km) park offers good
farm tools, and hiking and bird-watching.
basketry. Across the Barking deer can also be seen,
street is the affiliated and elephants are sometimes
Buddha Foundry, found at the salt licks. The
The Phra Buddha where visitors can cascades of Kaeng Sopha lie
Chinarat image watch bronze Buddha 6 miles (9 km) from the park
images being forged. headquarters. Farther west are
the Poi falls and smaller Kaeng
Environs Song rapids.
Three miles (5 km) south of
Phitsanulok is the Ayutthayan, Environs
laterite prang of Wat At Khao Kho, to the east, is a
rehabilitation project for the
Borommatrailokanat in 1464, a Hmong, displaced through
year after he moved his capital involvement in anti-Communist
from Ayutthaya to Phitsanulok. fighting in the 1970s–80s. The
He was ordained as a monk here King takes great interest in the
in 1465 after abdicating in favor program and has a palace nearby.
The thinly forested Thung Salaeng Luang National Park
NORTHERN
THAILAND
Introducing
Northern Thailand 208–215
Northwest Heartland 216–241
Far North 242–263
208  NORTHERN THAILAND

Introducing Northern Thailand

Northern Thailand, home of the ancient Lanna kingdom
(see pp66–7), offers a great diversity of activities. The old
Lanna capitals of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are filled with
ancient monuments and museums, and markets selling the
distinctive local textiles and handicrafts. Smaller towns, such
as Nan and Lamphun, offer a more low-key charm. Away from
the main settlements, the scenery of Northern Thailand is
stupendous: mountains, forests (some of them teak), rice Mae Hong Son (see pp220–21),
fields set in verdant valleys, and several spectacular national a rapidly developing tourist center,
parks. The more adventurous visitor can join a trek to remote is particularly popular with budget
travelers. The town’s main
villages inhabited by hill tribes where elements of lifestyle attraction is its beautiful
have changed little in hundreds of years. mountain setting.
Fang

Mae Suruai

Chiang
Pai Dao

Phrao
Mae
Hong Son

Chiang Mai (see pp228–31) is justly

famed for its 300 temples, fine
shopping, distinctive Northern
cuisine, and (despite its size) Khun
Yuam
relaxed pace of life. Chiang Mai

Sop Wak
Lamphun

NORTHWEST HEARTLAND
(see pp216–241)
Lampang
Mae
Sariang Hot

Mae Tun

Doi Inthanon National Park Mae Tom Nua

(see pp234–5) incorporates the
highest mountain in Thailand.
Visitors come for the stunning
scenery, including several Thoen
waterfalls, and rich wildlife.

Lampang (see pp240–41) is a

thriving town which hosts
colorful festivals. It contains a
number of important wats and
a museum of Lanna artifacts.
Rice paddies against a sunset backdrop, Chiang Mai area
 INTRODUCING NORTHERN THAILAND  209

Doi Tung (see p247), a

mountain set in beautiful
forested country, is
crowned by an important
pilgrimage site.

Mae Chan Chang Khong

Chiang Rai

Pa Sak
Thoeng

Chiang Kham

Chiang Rai (see pp254–5) has long dwelled in

Song Khwae the shadow of nearby Chiang Mai, but is now
rapidly developing into a significant tourist
Phayao
center in its own right. Its monuments and
wats may not be as numerous, but the city
is an excellent source of hill-tribe handi-
crafts and a starting point for trekkers.
FAR NORTH
(see pp242–263)

Nan
0 kilometers 50
Ngao 0 miles 25

Wiang Sa
Cham Pui

Rong Kwang
Na Noi

Phrae

Den Chai Fak Tha

Nam Pat

Nan (see pp258–9) is a wealthy,

sleepy town with several quirky
wats, a good museum, and a
spectacular mountain setting.
Every October the Nan River is
filled with colorful canoes taking
part in the Lanna boat races.
210  northern thailand

The Hill Tribes of Thailand

there are six main groups of hill dwellers living in northern
thailand: the akha, hmong, lisu, Karen, lahu, and Mien.
these seminomadic peoples, some 500,000 in total, began
to arrive here at the end of the 19th century, pushed out
of their native tibet, Myanmar, and China by civil war and
political pressures. though widely referred to as hill tribes,
this label is rather general as each group has its own
heritage, language, religion, and culture. the future of the
hill tribes is uncertain. traditionally, most use the slash-and-
This 1890s portrait is of Lahu
burn method (swiddening) to grow crops, abandoning land
women. Most hill tribes still wear
once it is exhausted. But competing pressures on land are traditional dress, though Western
drawing them into the thai market economy. Many hill- clothing is widely available.
tribe teenagers have moved to Chiang Mai to work in or
Bamboo sections are pounded
set up craft workshops. rhythmically to honor leaders during
the Swing Ceremony.
Young Lisu women
and girls wear black
turbans adorned with
multicolored threads,
mainly for important
celebrations such as
New Year. Silver jewelry,
sewn onto their
clothes, is a display of
the family’s wealth.

This Hmong house

has been accidentally
destroyed by fire.
To improve
living conditions
and economic
opportunities,
and to stop
swiddening,
the government
aims to integrate
hill tribes into the
Thai way of life.

Festivals and Gatherings

Colorful ceremonies mark rites of
passage such as birth, death, and
marriage. Here, the Akha gather for
a festival.

New Year is the most important date in the Lisu

calendar. A tree is planted in front of each house in the In the past, some hill tribes earned
village. A shaman and a priest then perform a ritual to extra income from opium production.
cleanse the village of the past year’s bad elements, They are now encouraged to grow
while young people dance around the trees. “new” crops such as cabbage.

Akha houses are characterized by a large
porch connected to a square living area
with a stove. They are usually constructed
on high ground near the tribe’s rice fields.
An ornate headdress,
decorated with silver or,
increasingly, aluminum,
is worn by Akha women.
Karen typically build houses in
lowland valleys, cultivating by
crop rotation rather than slash-
and-burn. They are the largest
and least nomadic tribe.
introducing northern thailand  211
Akha people strive to maintain a traditional way of life,
the “Akha Way.” This is proving more difficult as fertile land
disappears and animal numbers are depleted. Here, a
villager carries out the vital chore of collecting wood.
A sash, weighed
down with
coins and beads,
distinguishes
women from girls.
While many Lahu women no longer
wear traditional dress on a daily basis,
they still weave distinctive shoulder bags
(yam) from brightly colored fabrics.
Mien clothing
is particularly
distinctive. Women
embroider colorful
patterns onto black
or indigo cloth and
stitch red pompons
onto caps worn
by children.
Spiritual Beliefs
Many hill-tribe beliefs and practices are
based on animism. Villages often have
two religious leaders: a priest, who
performs rituals and communes
with the local guardian spirit, and a
shaman, who has the power to
consult directly with the spirit
world. Rituals influence most
decisions in a village, including
where it is sited. But as tribes are
drawn into modern life, traditional
practices and medicine are coming Mien tools used during
under threat. shamanistic ceremonies
212  northern thailand

Northern Arts and Crafts

northern thailand is famous for its handicrafts. the high
quality of crafts produced today, such as wooden carvings,
silverware, fabrics, ceramics, silk, and lacquerware, reflects
centuries of northern thai, or lanna, expertise. the region’s
ethnic minorities and hill tribes (see pp210–11) also
produce distinctive embroidery, paintings, and silverware.
Chiang Mai (see pp228–31) is the main crafts center, while
villages such as Bo Sang and San Kamphaeng (see pp232–3)
specialize in particular crafts. in factory-shops, visitors can Ornate Akha headdresses
feature silver coins and
watch crafts being made. antiques and excellent copies hollow baubles that are
are sold in outlets in Chiang Mai. though teak logging has expertly crafted by the
been strictly controlled in thailand since 1989, wooden men of the hill tribe.
crafts produced from imported teak are still widely sold.

Animal figures, intricately carved from wood

(in many cases teak), often feature in Northern
wats. Such wooden crafts are still produced
throughout the North, despite the ban
on unregulated teak logging.

Northern lacquerwork
typically consists of a red Curved legs
lacquer-coated wood or were designed to
fit over the back
bamboo base decorated
of the elephant,
with a yellow pattern. This is near its head.
a 19th- or 20th-century box.

Royal Howdah
Before the advent of the car,
elephants were used for trans-
portation in Thailand. People sat
in howdahs, or elephant chairs,
on the elephants’ backs. Howdahs
stood some 5 ft (1.5 m) high, and
their decoration revealed their
passengers’ status. The most
basic form consisted of a seat
with raised sides. Howdahs used
for transporting royalty and
aristocrats, such as this one from
Umbrellas are the main craft items produced in Bo Sang. Northern Thailand, featured
They are made of lacquered paper, stretched over a bamboo ornate wood carving and
frame, then painted with traditional motifs such as elephants. usually had a roof.
 introducing northern thailand  213

Betel sets consist of

several containers used
to hold the ingredients
for betel-chewing
(a popular activity in
Southeast Asia) – betel
leaf, limestone ash, and the
narcotic areca palm fruit.
A gold set was a sign of status.
Wooden roof
brackets, seen on
religious buildings,
A roof made are for decoration
from lacquered rather than support.
woven bamboo
offered shelter
They often depict nagas
from the heat. (serpents) and other animals.

Silver ceremonial jewelry

is worn for village festivals
and other important
occasions. While hill tribes
still use old silver, melted
down from Indian and
Burmese coins, many Thai
silversmiths in Chiang
Mai nowadays rely
on imported silver of a
lower quality.

Handles were used for

support during bumpy
rides. Royal elephant seats
were more comfortable
than ordinary ones.

In Thailand even everyday

items are decorated, such as
this wooden clapper,
Delicately fashioned
which is painted
wood carving featured with a flower
only on elephant chairs motif. A clapper is
used by affluent traditionally worn by
members of society. water buffalo so they can
be located if they stray.

Textiles of Northern Thailand

Textile production in Northern
Thailand dates from the early
Lanna period, and the region
is known for its silk and cotton.
Chiang Mai and San Kamphaeng
are centers for silk clothing –
also made in the Northeast A traditional cotton design
(see pp270–71) – including the
traditional pha sin (woman’s
Embroidering a striped Lahu bag sarong). Outlets also sell
furnishings and cottonware
produced in Pasang (see p233) such as the pha koma (man’s sarong).
Chiang Khong factory-shops produce Thai Lue cotton fabrics in
stunning colors (see p253), while hill tribes make and sell brightly
patterned fabrics. Most textiles can be bought as lengths or as
ready-made items. A 19th-century pha sin
214  NORTHERN THAILAND

Birds of Northern Thailand

Northern Thailand lies on the Eastern Asia Flyway,
a major flight path for migrating birds. Thailand
boasts some 10 percent of the world’s bird species, 380
of which have been recorded in the hills around
Chiang Mai. Most of these are migratory birds that
have flown south in winter to the warmer climes of
Thailand’s forested hills. Steps have been introduced to
protect bird habitats under threat from deforestation. Selected Migration Routes
But many sites in the north, especially Doi Suthep Arctic warblers
(see pp226–7) and Doi Inthanon (see pp234–5) national Siberian rubythroats
parks, still provide a habitat for numerous bird species. Herons

Black-crowned night-herons
are nocturnal birds. They have
a black crest, nape, and back, Changeable hawk-eagle
whitish underparts, and gray
wings. Resident in various The red-breasted parakeet, of
countries, they migrate to low deciduous woodlands, is threatened
altitudes in Northern Thailand. by the illegal trade in birds.

Red-wattled lapwings,
named for the red patch
of skin in front of the eye,
reside near streams and in
open forest. When alarmed
they emit a loud, shrill call.

Teak tree

Silver pheasants live at various altitudes,

typically over 2,300 ft (700 m). Their red feet
and long tail distinguish them from other types
of pheasants. They are also bred in captivity to
be sold for food – because of their depleted
numbers, pheasants are protected.

Purple herons are 0–1,640 ft (0–500 m)

Pheasant-tailed jacanas wetland birds that can be
Above sea level
have long legs, toes, seen near forest streams.
and claws that enable They have a slender,
rufous (red-brown) neck.
them to walk on leaves Coral-billed ground-cuckoos
in lowland rivers, are difficult to observe because
foraging for food. they are rare, shy birds.
 INTRODUCING NORTHERN THAILAND  215

Long-tailed broadbills, so called

for their short heavy bill and long
tail (unique in broadbills), live at high
altitudes in Northern Thailand. They
feed on insects, probing for them in
trees or catching them while in flight.
Gould’s sunbirds live at high
altitudes. The male is far more Asian paradise flycatchers can
colorful than the female, with be resident or migratory, nesting
a metallic blue, crimson, and on upper slopes. The females and
yellow body. immature males have a brown
Great Indian body and a black head. Fully
hornbill developed males are more
stunning in color, with a white tail
and a blue beak.

Siberian rubythroats migrate to the

upper slopes of Northern Thailand’s
evergreen forests. The characteristic
red patch on the throat is present
only in the male.
Epiphyte-
covered trees
4,900–8,200 ft
(1,500–2,500 m)

Bay owls are distinguished

from other owls by a loud,
musical whistle.

Silver pheasant
Strangler fig
1,640–4,900 ft
(500–1,500 m)
Bird Habitats at
Different Altitudes
Deciduous dipterocarp trees
clothe the foothills of Northern
Thailand. Here, teak forests
provide a habitat for kalij
pheasants, wagtails, and
parakeets, and migratory
wetland birds such as herons.
Higher up the slopes, bazas,
hornbills, hill mynas, and shikes
are drawn to mixed evergreen
and deciduous forests. Oaks
and epiphytic plants, such as
ferns, thrive on the hilltops,
where arctic warblers, owls,
and other small birds live.
Greater racket-tailed
drongos are resident at
medium-range elevations in
Northern Thailand. They feed
almost entirely on insects,
flying out repeatedly from the
same branch, often in small
groups. Their long tails are
tipped with a vane or “racket”
that ripples as the bird flies.
Tips for Bird-watching
• The best time to see birds is during the “winter” months, from
January to April, when resident birds are mating and most
migratory species arrive. Avoid the wet season (June–October),
when heavy rain and leeches can be a problem.
• National park headquarters provide leaflets detailing bird-
watching trails. Guided trips can often be arranged.
• Take binoculars, plenty of water, insect repellent, and a compass.
Try to wear dark green or inconspicuous clothing.
• Many birds are shy, so be patient. Walk quietly to avoid rustling
leaves, and do not walk straight toward the bird.

NORTHWEST
HEARTLAND
Northwest thailand is the heartland of lanna thai. the ancient city
of Chiang Mai, famed for its many fine temples and handicrafts, is
the focal point for visitors. this and smaller towns are set in verdant
valleys among thickly forested mountains. the Northwest is also
home to a number of ethnic minorities, and the rich mix of diverse
cultures and scenery is most enticing.
Chiang Mai, superbly sited in the Ping River
Valley, was once the capital of the Lanna
Kingdom. In the 12th–18th centuries this
kingdom, strongly influenced by Burma
(now Myanmar), ruled over what is now
northern Thailand, and local Thais remain
proud of their Lanna heritage. Indeed, the
silverwork, woodcarving, pottery, and other
crafts of the North are regarded by many as
the most exquisite in Thailand. Nowhere in
the country are crafts more readily available
than in Chiang Mai and its environs.
Chiang Mai is also a useful base from
which to explore the mountains and
villages. Trekking to hill-tribe villages is a
popular, though controversial, activity.
Although most trekkers are genuinely
interested in hill-tribe culture, there
is a danger that villages will become
dependent on tourism and that
traditional ways of life will be lost forever.
Boy lighting a candle at Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, one of several major wats in the Northwest
Twin chedis, erected in honour of the king and queen, in Doi Inthanon National Park
NortherN thailaNd  217
In the west, close to the Myanmar border,
the remote towns of Mae Hong Son and
Mae Sariang are in some ways more
Myanmar than Thai. The wats, for instance,
have multiroofed chedis reminiscent of
Myanmar temples. North of Chiang Mai,
the streets of Chiang Dao are lined with
two-story teak buildings, a reminder that
the surrounding countryside was once
rich in teak forests. To the south of Chiang
Mai, Lanna influence can again be seen in
temples and museum artifacts within the
cities of Lampang and Lamphun. The latter
also has surviving traces of the older
Kingdom of Haripunchai.
Thailand’s highest mountain, Doi
Inthanon, lies west of Chiang Mai, within a
national park with good facilities. Here can
be seen dramatic waterfalls and a wide
range of wildlife, including hundreds of
migratory birds.
218  NORTHERN THAILAND

Exploring the Northwest Heartland

The Northwest Heartland is a geographically spectacular
region. Towering mountains, many with densely forested
slopes, stretch to the Myanmar (Burma) border and
contrast with the gentler scenery of the Ping and Taeng
River valleys. Trekking in this beautiful landscape,
with its wealth of wildlife and fascinating hill-tribe MAE AW Tham Lot
villages, is a major activity in the Northwest
SOPPONG
Heartland. Cultural attractions are also plentiful,
THAM PLA Doi Mae Muang
including the ancient temples of Chiang Mai, 1635m
Lamphun, and Lampang, and the unmissable MAE HONG PAI
Wat Phra That Lampang Luang. SON
Hua Kha Pai

NAMTOK MAE SURIN

NATIONAL PARK
Sights at a Glance
Mai Surin Falls
1 Mae Hong Son pp220–21
2 Namtok Mae Surin National Park
Khun
3 Tham Pla Yuam
4 Mae Aw
5 Soppong Doi Khun Bong
1772m
6 Pai
7 Doi Chiang Dao Sop Wak
8 Phrao DOI INTHANON
9 Mae Taeng Valley NATIONAL PARK
0 Doi Suthep pp226–7
Yuam

Mae Chaem
q Chiang Mai pp228–31 Chom Thong
w Doi Saket
Mae La Noi
e Bo Sang
Ch

r San Kamphaeng m
PING RIVER
ae

VALLEY
t Lamphun
y Doi Inthanon National Park Ob Luang
MAE SARIANG Hot
pp234–5
u Ping River Valley
Sal

Kong Loi
Wang Lung
aw

i Mae Sariang
in

o Wat Phra That Lampang Luang

Mae Sam
pp238–9 Laep
p Lampang
Mae Tom Nua
a Thai Elephant Conservation Yuam
Center
s Uttaradit Yang Piang
M
oe
i

Tun

Ban Tha
Song Yang

Tha Song Yang

Mae Sot
0 kilometers 50

Vachirathan Waterfall, Doi Inthanon National Park 0 miles 25

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 NORTHWEST HEARTLAND  219

Fang

Pang Makham
Pom
Na Wai

Wiang Pa
Pao
DOI CHIANG
DAO PHRAO
Chiang Dao
Ta
e ng

MAE TAENG VALLEY

Mae Taeng

Luang
Sop
Poeng Chiang Elaborately decorated pillars inside the bot of Chiang Mai’s
Rai Wat Chiang Man
DOI
SUTHEP DOI SAKET
San Kamphaeng
Hot Springs
Getting Around
BO SANG
CHIANG MAI The highways around Chiang Mai are well
SAN KAMPHAENG maintained, and most other roads in this
area are reasonable. Lampang and Mae
LAMPHUN Hong Son have domestic airports, and there
is an international airport at Chiang Mai, the
Chiang main transportation hub. Many trains and
ng Pasang Rai
Pi buses run each day between Chiang Mai
THAI ELEPHANT and Bangkok (11–13 hours by train, via
Ban Hong CONSERVATION CENTER Uttaradit and Lampang; about 10 hours
Hang Chat by bus). Frequent local bus services
LAMPANG
WAT PHRA THAT link most towns and villages in
LAMPANG LUANG the region. Isolated sights are
Kor Kha best reached by songthaew,
and guided treks and
Som Ngam Phrae organized tours are a
Mae Tun Den Chai good way of seeing
Thung Hua Dong Ya Thao larger areas.
Chang
Sop Prap
Li

UTTARADIT
Mae Ping Thoen
National
Park Sukhothai
Wang

Bhumibol
Reservoir Key
Sam Ngao Major road
Minor road
Pi
ng

Scenic route
Railway
Tak International border
Summit

Elephants at the Thai Elephant Conservation Center

For keys to symbols see back flap
220  NORThERN ThAILAND

1 Street-by-Street: Mae Hong Son


Beautifully located in a valley ringed by forested mountains, Mae To Airport
hong Son sprang up in 1831 from a small camp where elephants
were tethered. The town was largely isolated until it was linked by a
paved highway to Chiang Mai in 1965. The province has traditionally
been dominated by nearby Myanmar (Burma), as shown by its
architecture. Shan and Karen people, who make up most of the
population, continue to move across the border to live in Mae hong
Son and its environs. Today, the tranquil town is growing as a resort
and trekking center. In the cool season, you may need to wear a
sweater or jacket here.

uD
oM
cH
. Wat Hua Wiang

ao
This teak temple has a

ni
Myanmar-style, multi-

TH
roofed design. The bot –

En
in an advanced state
of decay – houses an
important brass image
of Buddha, Phrachao
Para La ‘Khaeng, that
was transported here
from Myanmar. The
Night
Bazaar
sells crafts
and Thai
Lue fabrics.

aM
kH
g
n
o
cH
iT
aD
Daily Market Pr
This lively, pungent market, which almost spills onto the
airport runway, sells a range of fresh produce, Myanmar
textiles, and trekking supplies. Local hill tribes are often
seen here.

The Padaung Women

Many tours from Mae Hong Son visit the
“long-neck women” of the area. These
women, of the Padaung, or Kayan, tribe,
are distinguished by their long necks,
lengthened from childhood by brass
rings. Among the explanations for this
old practice are that it protects the
women from tiger attacks and that it
enhances their looks. The practice began
to die out until the Padaung realized
tourists would pay to see the women. Traditional
Some organizations condemn such visits. “Long-neck women” of the Shan teak houses
Padaung tribe can be seen along
this street.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 northwest heartland  221

Chong Kham Lake VisitoRs’ ChECKList

This lake, which was
originally a bathing pool Practical Information
for elephants, can be Mae Hong Son province.
especially stunning in * 48,000. n TAT, Mae Hong
the early-morning mists Son (0-5361-2982-3); b
that enshroud the town. Singhanat Bamrung Rd (0-5361-
1952). ( early–9am daily. _ Poi
Sang Long Festival (late Mar/early
Apr); Chong Para Festival (Oct).
Ch ∑ travelmaehongson.org
a
M Transport
n
a ~ 1,100 yds (1 km)
n
s NW of Chong Kham Lake.
a
@ Khumlum Phraphat Rd.
t
it

. Wat Chong Kham

Wat Chong Kham (c.1827), which was built by
the Shan, features a multi-roofed chedi.
The wat houses a revered 16-ft (5-m)
seated Buddha image.

Post office

Fitness park

Wat Doi Kong Mu, on

a hill top to the west of . Wat Chong Klang
To Wat Doi town, has superb views Built in the late 19th century, this temple has
Kong Mu of the town and area. distinctive white and gold chedis. Painted
glass panels depicting the jataka tales
(see p34) can be seen on request.
h M
t
P u
a
a L
R M
h u
h
K

0 meters 25
P

0 yards 25

KEY
Suggested route

Khumlum Phraphat Road

Craft shops, restaurants, and tour companies line Mae Hong
Son’s main street. Hill-tribe textiles and antiques are among
the items for sale.
222  northern thailand
The spectacular Mae Surin waterfall in Namtok Mae Surin National Park
2 Namtok Mae 3 Tham Pla
Surin National Park 
 Mae Hong Son province. Off Hwy
Mae Hong Son province. Park HQ
2 miles (2.5 km) off Hwy 108, 5 miles
(8 km) N of Mae Hong Son. Tel 0-5306-
1073. n TAT, Mae Hong Son (0-5361-
2982-3); Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760 or
∑ dnp.go.th for bungalow
bookings). @ from Khun Yuam then
songthaew. Open daily. &
This small park is the highlight
of the area south of Mae Hong
Son. Much of its lowland forest
provides a habitat for the
Malaysian sun bear, Asiatic
black bear, and barking deer.
Bird species include drongos
and hornbills.
Mae Surin waterfall, which at
330 ft (100 m) is one of the
highest in Thailand, is reached
from the Khun Yuam district. on
a dirt road. Also accessible from
this road is Thung Bua Thong
(“wild sunflower meadow”),
which blooms in November
and December.
Raft trips along the Pai River,
which flows through the park,
can be arranged at guesthouses
in Mae Hong Son and Pai.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
1095, 11 miles (17 km) N of Mae Hong
Son. n TAT, Chiang Mai (0-5324-
8604). @ Mae Hong Son, then
songthaew, or join tour. &
Located north of Mae Hong
Son, this scenic spot can be
visited on a day trip from the
town. Tham Pla (“fish cave”) is
actually a pool and stream at
the base of a limestone outcrop,
so named because of the huge
carp that live in it. Visitors make
Highway 1095 as it passes through Soppong
merit by buying papaya to
feed to the fish. The peaceful
surrounding gardens are
perhaps the site’s most
attractive feature.
4 Mae Aw

Mae Hong Son province. * 7,000.
@ Mae Hong Son, then songthaew,
or join tour. n TAT, Mae Hong Son
(0-5361-2982-3). ( daily.
Situated in the mountains near
the Myanmar border, Mae Aw
is a remote settlement built by
members of the Kuomintang,
or KMT (see p246). Apart from
superb views, the village offers
an intriguing insight into life in
an isolated border village. But
fighting still sometimes breaks
out between rival factions over
control of the local opium trade,
following the overthrow of
Khun Sa (see p237) in 1996.
The best way to get to Mae
Aw is with a tour from Mae
Hong Son or by jeep. Before you
come, check with the local
tourist information office that
there is no fighting in the area.
5 Soppong

Mae Hong Son province. * 15,000.
@ from Mae Hong Son. n TAT, Mae
Hong Son (0-5361-2982-3). ( daily.
The village of Soppong (some-
times called Pang Mapha on local
maps) is perched 2,200 ft (700
m) up in the mountains. With its
 northwest heartland  223

6 Pai

Mae Hong Son province. * 27,000.
@ from Mae Hong Son. n TAT, Mae
Hong Son (0-5361-2982-3). ( daily.

Set in a beautiful valley, the

Muslim children in Pai, part of the town’s mixed community
fine views, surrounding teak
forests, and air of tranquility,
Soppong is becoming an increas-
ingly popular resort. Many
trekkers pass through here on the
way to visit local hill-tribe villages
populated by Lisu and Shan
(a minority originally from
Myanmar). The village itself has
a thriving market where local
tribespeople congregate daily.
Environs
Tham Lot, north of Soppong,
is one of the largest cave
systems in Southeast Asia.
The three adjoining caverns
form a vast subterranean
canyon, which is cut
through by a large stream.
The distinctive stalactites
and stalagmites are
especially impressive. The
discovery of artifacts and
huge carved teak coffins
indicates that the caves
were inhabited thousands
of years ago. Visitors may
cross the stream by raft or
by elephant. Guided visits
can be arranged at local
guesthouses.
town of Pai has become one
of the region’s most popular
destinations. Although still very
much a haven for backpackers,
Pai is increasingly attracting larger
resorts. Halfway between Chiang
Mai and Mae Hong Son, the
old Shan settlement is home to
several hill tribes and is renowned
for trekking and rafting.
The yellow and white tiles and
multilayered roofs of Wat Klang,
between the bus station and
the Pai River, are typical of Shan
temples. The hilltop Wat Phra
That Mae Yen, just east of Pai, was
also built by the Shan. The carved
wooden doors of the main wihan
depict scenes from nature and
human life. The temple has
sweeping views of the valley.
Guided treks of the area
(see p225) can be arranged at
many guesthouses in town.

Thailand’s Endangered Wildlife

With its diversity of landscapes, Thailand is an ideal
habitat for a vast range of flora and fauna.
In the 20th century, however,
poaching and deforestation led to
the extinction of many species,
including the kouprey (a type of wild
cattle) and Schomburgk’s deer. Some
Rock python – its favored animals are caught for food; some, including
forest habitat is rapidly gibbons, are sold as pets, while others,
disappearing like snakes, are killed through fear. Of
Thailand’s 282 mammal species, about
40 are endangered, and while laws exist to protect these animals, they
are not always enforced. Almost all of Thailand’s large mammals are in
danger of extinction, and many others, including the white-handed
gibbon, are, at best, rare. This alarming state of affairs is not confined to
mammals: ten percent of the country’s 405 reptiles and amphibians
are also endangered.
A rare white-handed gibbon
Tigers in Thailand
The increasing demand for dried tiger parts in
traditional Chinese medicines has led to the
worldwide demise of this great creature. Of the
few thousand tigers that remain in Asia, about 500
are estimated to be living in Thailand, particularly
in the Khao Yai National Park (see pp188–9).
In 1995 the Royal Forest Department established
a conservation project to try to prevent the tiger
from dying out altogether in Thailand.
224  NORTHERN THAILAND

roots, herbs, and spices.

East of Doi Chiang Dao,
and dominated by the peak,
is Chiang Dao town, with
its traditional teak buildings
along the main street. It was
founded in the 18th century
as a place of exile for phi pop,
(“spirit people”), who were
suspected of being possessed
Pavilions and carp-filled pool in front of Tham Chiang Dao by evil spirits. In fact, the
symptoms of their true
7 Doi Chiang Dao is their huge stalactites and illnesses, such as malaria,
stalagmites. Lanterns and had been mistaken as
 guides can be hired in order signs of madness.
7.5 miles (12 km) W of Chiang to make the most of these Tham Tup Tao, 30 miles
Dao, Chiang Mai province. impressive features. The (48 km) north of Chiang Dao,
n TAT, Chiang Mai (0-5324-8604). tours take visitors along are two large caverns. Tham
@ from Chiang Mai to Chiang an illuminated walkway Pha Kao (“light cave”) houses
Dao, then songthaew. through the caves. two large Buddha images
∑ chiangmai-thai.com Near the caves is a temple, and a stalagmite carved in
Wat Tham Chiang Dao, with the shape of a group of
At 7,200 ft (2,195 m), this is a Buddhist meditation center elephants. Inside Tham Pha
the third-largest mountain and a small room displaying Chak (“dark cave”), which
in Thailand. Home to several gongs and other instruments. can be explored only by
Lisu and Karen villages, Doi Beyond a huge tamarind tree, lantern, is a bat colony.
Chiang Dao features both by a pond, is an old Myanmar-
tropical and pine forests. style chedi. Nearby, a small } Tham Chiang Dao
Today, this peak and the market offers a wide selection Off Hwy 107, 3 miles (5 km) NW of
surrounding area, character- of locally gathered forest Chiang Dao. Open daily. & 8
ized by rugged limestone } Tham Tup Tao
scenery and dense teak forest, W of Hwy 107, Chiang Mai province.
are more of an attraction than Open daily. & 8
the nearby town, Chiang Dao.
Running for some 8.5 miles
(14 km) under the mountain 8 Phrao
is a network of caves, Tham
Chiang Dao, best reached

from Chiang Dao town. Most Chiang Mai province. * 46,000.
of the caves house statues @ from Chiang Mai. n TAT, Chiang
of the Buddha that, over the Mai (0-5324-8604). ( daily.
years, have been left by Shan
pilgrims from Myanmar. This small market town is
The highlight of the bat- Façade of Wat Tham Chiang Dao, near Doi a meeting place for Thai
inhabited caves, however, Chiang Dao traders and hill-tribe people.
Phrao was previously relatively
isolated, but today Highway
Orchids in Thailand 1150 connects it with Wiang
Seen on logos throughout Thailand, the orchid is the country’s most Pa Pao (see p256), making
famous flower. There are over 1,300 varieties of wild orchid in it more accessible. Phrao is
Thailand, most of which are dependent on forests. But while their still off the main tourist track.
natural habitat is threatened by deforestation, millions are being The town’s principal sight
cultivated for export to overseas markets. Export began in the 1950s, is its covered market, which
and burgeoned in the 1980s sells traditional textiles
when the first orchid farms and locally grown fruit
were established. In 1991 the and vegetables.
value of exports peaked at
about $80 million. Since then,
Environs
as consumer trends have
changed in important Heading east toward Wiang
markets such as Japan, this Pa Pao, Highway 1150 runs
figure has started to decline. through spectacular forest
A pink orchid, one of the most popular colors scenery. Several Lisu and
for the overseas markets Hmong hill-tribe villages
can be seen.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 NORTHWEST HEARTLAND  225

area. Established in 1995, the

Elephant Nature Park,
in the beautiful Mae Taeng
Valley, is home to dozens of
rescued elephants. Founder
Lek Chailert’s efforts to save
the endangered Asian
elephant have received
praise and awards from
around the world. The center
welcomes volunteer workers.

A leisurely rafting trip along the Taeng River
9 Mae Taeng Valley

Chiang Mai province. £
@ Chiang Mai, then songthaew.
n TAT, Chiang Mai (0-5324-8604).
The area around Mae Taeng,
especially the vicinity of the
Taeng River to the northwest
of the town, is very popular
with trekkers. The land has
been terraced and irrigated to
 Elephant Nature Park
6 miles (10 km) W of Hwy 107.
improve agricultural Tel 0-5327-2855. Open daily. &
∑ elephantnaturefoundation.org
production, and the variety
of crops grown has created
an attractive contrast of
landscapes. However, most
trekkers come here not only
for the peaceful surroundings
but also to witness everyday
scenes in the region’s many
Lisu, Karen, and Hmong
villages. Other activities,
including river rafting, can Rescued elephants bathing at the Elephant
be combined with treks in the Nature Park

Trekking Around Chiang Dao

Northern Thailand is renowned for its trekking (see p448). Treks in the area around Chiang Dao and Mae
Taeng often combine visits to hill-tribe villages with a raft trip through the stunning
scenery. Most three-day treks from Chiang Mai, which can be arranged by guesthouses or trekking
companies in the city, incorporate this area. Among the region’s interesting towns are Mae Taeng, Phrao,
and Chiang Dao, all of which have long been at the interface between the Thai-dominated lowlands and
the uplands, where the hill tribes live. It is vital to trek with a guide who is familiar with the area and hill-
tribe etiquette. Typical routes, lasting two to three days, are marked below.

Fang

Doi That

1,8 02 m
Soppong ( 5 ,9 12 ft)
Tae

Ping
ng

a
t

Ng

Doi Chiang Dao

2, 195 m Wiang
(7, 200 ft ) Pa Pao

Sights Near Tae

ng
Chiang Dao
Ngat
1 Pai
2 Elephant Nature Park
3 Mae Taeng Key
4 Elephant Training Center
Major road
Taeng Dao Chiang Mai
0 kilometers 25 Minor road
5 Chiang Dao
0 miles 20
6 Phrao Trek route
226  northern thailand

0 Doi Suthep

doi Suthep is a much-visited, thickly forested mountain in the twin-
peaked doi Suthep-doi Pui national Park. near its 5,250-ft (1,601-m)
summit is Wat Phra that doi Suthep, one of the most revered
Buddhist shrines in northern thailand. the mountain is also popular
with birdwatchers and trekkers. From Chiang Mai, a paved road
Murals in Cloister
snakes up the hillside to a village with restaurants and souvenir The murals depict scenes
shops. From here, there is a choice of a steep climb or the from the Buddha’s life.
funicular to the wat. Minor attractions on doi Suthep
include waterfalls, a hmong village, and,
farther along the road, the english-style
gardens of Phuping Palace.

. Central Chedi
This striking gold-
plated Lanna structure
is a 16th-century
extension of the
original. The four multi-
tiered gold umbrellas
around it, onto which
pilgrims apply gold leaf
(see p34), are adorned
with intricate filigree.

White Elephant Monument

According to legend, in the 1390s
King Ku Na’s elephant selected the
site of the chedi by marching up
the mountain, trumpeting and
Wat Doi Suthep
turning three times. Enshrining sacred relics, the wat at the top
of Doi Suthep, founded in the 14th century,
is regarded by many as the symbol of
Lanna Thailand (see pp66–7).

Naga Staircase
Flanked by nagas, this sweeping
staircase has 304 steps. The less
energetic can take the funicular
up to the temple.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 northwest heartland  227

Buddha Images in
VISITorS’ ChECKLIST
the Main Wihan
The gold Buddha images
Practical Information
in the 16th-century wihan
10 miles (16 km) NW of Chiang
are the most important
Mai, Chiang Mai province.
within the temple
n TAT, Chiang Mai (0-5324-
complex. The huge image
8604); Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760
in the back is surrounded
or ∑ dnp.go.th for bungalows).
by several smaller ones.
Wat Doi Suthep: open 5:30am–
7:30pm daily. Palace Gardens:
open 8:30–11:30am & 1–3:30pm
Mon–Fri. & Phuping Palace:
Closed to public.
∑ doisuthep.com

Transport
£ @ Chiang Mai then
songthaew.

Temple Bells
The original use of these
small bells was to call the
monks and the people
to worship. Today, there is
a constant tinkling from
visitors ringing them
for good luck.

Bell Tower
This decorative bell tower, near
the steps up to the main wihan,
is distinctive for its multi-colored,
layered roof.

Wildlife Around Wat Doi Suthep
With its rich and varied wildlife,
Doi Suthep-Doi Pui National Park
is a great attraction for nature lovers.
Despite the deforestation of the
western side of the park due to
agriculture and the building of
tourist accommodations, the park is
rich in plants, butterflies, and birds
such as the green cochoa. Though
people have killed or driven out
many indigenous mammals, 60
species still live here, including
Black-collared starling, a
the Burmese ferret badger.
resident of the park
. Panoramic Views
From the edge of the temple
complex there are breathtaking
views of the forests of Doi Suthep-
Doi Pui National Park and of
Chiang Mai city, situated to
the southeast.
KEY
1 Library
2 This is one of several
buildings in the complex used
as accommodation by monks.
3 Funicular
228  northern thailand

q Street-by-Street: Chiang Mai


thailand’s second most important city, Chiang Mai (literally,
“new city”), was chosen in 1292 by King Mengrai to replace
Chiang rai (see pp254–5) as the capital of his lanna Kingdom
(see pp66–7). Under Mengrai, Chiang Mai became a major base
for theravada Buddhism. it was during this period and the
subsequent reign of King tilok that many fine wats were built To Suan
within the walled city, which is still the most atmospheric area. Dok Gate
today, visitors are increasingly drawn to Chiang Mai not only
for its beautiful temples, but also for its excellent shopping
and trekking facilities and upscale hotels and restaurants.

Mengrai Kilns
(see p437) sells a To Mengrai
wide range of Kilns
ceramics.

N
A
L
M
A
S

Old Chiang Mai

The first bridge across the Ping River was
built in 1950. Others were later added
to cope with the city’s growth.

SOI 7

Wat Phra Chao

Mengrai has
a decorated
Wat Muen Ngon Kong
ceremonial gate.
This wat has exquisite lattice-work
and a Lanna chedi topped by
a Burmese finial.

0 meters 100

0 yards 100
Wat Phan Waen
A typical Northern Thai
temple, Wat Pan Waen is set
within peaceful compounds,
which provide relief from the
city heat. The doors of the
wihan are decorated with
religious images.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 chiang mai  229

. Wat Phra Sing ViSiToRS’ CHECKLiST

This wat was built in 1345 to house
King Kham Fu’s ashes. The Wihan Practical Information
Lai Kham is a superb Lanna Chiang Mai province. * 84,000.
structure with carved and gilded n TAT, 105/1 Chiang Mai–
pediments. Murals inside depict Lamphun Rd (0-5324-8604).
everyday life in 19th-century b main office: same address as
Chiang Mai. TAT (0-5324-8974). ( daily.
_ Bo Sang Festival (Jan), Flower
Festival (Feb), Songkran (mid-
Apr), Intakin Festival (May),
Yi Peng Festival (Nov).
Transport
k 2 miles (3 km) SW of Chiang
Mai. £ Charoen Muang Rd.
@ Chiang Mai Arcade.

Wat Phan Tao

R
A

The well-preserved
T
C

Lanna wihan is notable

H
A

at this wat. Its roof,

D

supported by columns,
A
M

is decorated with
N
D

Lanna cho fas

E
N

(see p41).

N
A
B
A
H
C
R

. Wat Chedi Luang

A
T

The spacious, triple-roofed wihan

C
H

houses panels depicting scenes

A
M

from the jataka tales (see p34).

A
N
K
H
A

City of Splendid Wats

S

Though a fraction of the size of Bangkok,

o
i

Chiang Mai boasts almost as many wats

7

as the capital. Most were built during the

city’s most prosperous period – from the
13th to the mid-16th centuries – when it
was a major religious center. Many wats in
Wat Chang Chiang Mai survive from this period, but
Taem most were altered by the Burmese, who
subsequently ruled the city. Nevertheless,
Chiang Mai’s architecture is still thought
to epitomize Lanna style (see pp66–7),
Key with features such as elaborate wood- The 19th-century Wihan Lai
carvings on temple pillars and doors. Kham, Wat Phra Sing
Suggested route
230  NORTHERN THAILAND

Exploring Chiang Mai the commercial hub of

Chiang Mai. Located here
Often called the “rose of the North,” Chiang Mai is shedding are bookstores, department
its sleepy backpacker-haven reputation and carving out a stores, and handicraft shops.
new identity for itself. The town has expanded rapidly and Farther east, the road becomes
Highway 106, along which
boutique hotels and trendy restaurants are springing up
are shops and factories selling
everywhere, bringing new style and sophistication. Chiang silk, celadon, lacquerware, and
Mai boasts an exquisite location, circled by mountains. other crafts.
Its stunning wats, notably Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Phra
Sing; historic sites; bustling markets; and lively nightlife make T Suan Dok Gate

it an exciting destination. The town thrives on its crafts trade 

This is the city’s western gate,
(see pp212–13), as seen in the wide range sold at Warorot marking the start of Suthep
Market and the Night Bazaar, and along Tha Phae Road. Road, along which three
important temples are situated.

One of the murals inside Wat Phra Sing’s Wihan Lai Kham
 Wat Phra Sing

Samlan Rd, near Suan Dok Gate.
Open daily.
Construction of this temple,
the largest in Chiang Mai, began
in 1345, though the bot dates
from 1600. The Wihan Lai Kham
(“gilded hall”), decorated with
murals of everyday life, houses
the revered golden Phra Buddha
Sing. Like its namesakes in
Bangkok (see p92) and Nakhon
Si Thammarat (see p383), the
image is said to have originated
in Sri Lanka.
 Wat Chedi Luang

Phra Pok Klao Rd. Open daily.
Within the compound of this
temple is the spot where King
Mengrai was killed by lightning
in 1317. The revered Emerald
Buddha image was briefly
housed in the wat in the
15th century – a previous
attempt to bring it to Chiang
Mai failed (see p87). The chedi,
once 295 ft (90 m) high, was
damaged by an earthquake
in 1465.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 Wat Chiang Man

Off Ratcha Phakhinai Rd.
Open daily.
King Mengrai dedicated this
residence as a wat, the city’s
oldest, while his new capital
was being built. It features
Lanna teak pillars and a chedi
surrounded by stone elephant
heads. The wihan houses the
Phra Kaeo Kao, thought to have
been carved in Northern India
in the 6th century BC.
T Tha Phae Gate

Tha Phae Gate marks the
beginning of Tha Phae Road,
Shoppers browsing around Chiang Mai’s lively Warorot Market
( Night Bazaar

Chang Khlan Rd.
Open 6–11pm daily.
With its wide range of goods
at competitive prices, this
easily rivals Bangkok’s
Chatuchak Market (see p139).
Inside are endless stalls
selling hill-tribe crafts, leather
goods, and clothing. The top
floor specializes in antiques.
Beware of fakes (see p435),
especially at the stalls outside
the market. This is also a good
place to try Chiang Mai’s
Myanmar-influenced cuisine.
Shops on Wualai Road,
south of Chiang Mai Gate,
sell the best silverware
and textiles.
( Warorot Market

N of Tha Phae Rd. Open daily.
During the day, this covered
market sells local food,
clothing and hill-tribe crafts,
often at lower prices than
the Night Bazaar. Fruits,
spices, and tasty dishes
are all available. By night,
it is the site of a colorful
flower market.
 CHIANG MAI  231

Environs McCormick Hospital. This

There are many sights outside
the city center that are worth
a visit. Most can be reached by
local transport. For longer
excursions, most hotels and
guesthouses offer treks to hill-
tribe villages (see pp210–11).
There are also many tour
operators on Tha Phae Road.
Two-hour river cruises on the
Ping River leave from Wat
Chaimongkol on Charoen
Prathet Road, taking in a variety
of opulent homes and humble
riverside villages.
To the north of the city is
the Chiang Mai National
Museum. Its collection
ranges from Haripunchai
terracottas to Lanna
heads of the Buddha.
On the grounds of
Chiang Mai University
is the Tribal Research Buddha image,
Institute. Its small National Museum and nearby Wat Ram Poeng
museum details the
history of the area’s ethnic
minorities. Treks to hill-tribe
villages can be arranged here.
On Kaew Narawat Road, to
the northeast of the city, is
working hospital is typical of
Chiang Mai’s 19th- and 20th-
century architecture, much of
which was built by missionaries
and officials of the British teak
logging companies who came
here from Myanmar (Burma).
Just west of Suan Dok Gate,
on Suthep Road, is Wat Suan
Dok. The temple was built in
1383 to house relics of the
Buddha, while the open-sided
wihan was restored in the 1930s.
The small chedis contain ashes Facade of the 14th-century Wat Suan Dok
of members of Chiang Mai’s
former royal family. Farther spacious grounds. Its stuccoed
along Suthep Road is the design is based on the
14th-century Wat U Mong. Mahabodhi Temple of
Some of the original tunnels Bodhgaya in India, where the
leading to the monks’ cells Buddha is said to have
can still be explored. Also achieved Enlightenment.
of note is a disturbing
image of a fasting E Chiang Mai National Museum
Buddha. This temple Off Superhighway. Tel 0-5322 1308.
Open 9am–4pm Wed–Sun.
offer meditation courses. Closed public hols. &
The latter’s library keeps versions E Tribal Research Institute
of the Theravada Buddhist canon Chiang Mai University, off Huai
in various languages. Kaew Rd. Tel 0-5321-0872.
Wat Chet Yot, distinctive for Open 8:30am–noon & 1–4:30pm
its seven-spired chedi, is set in Mon–Fri. Closed public hols.

Chiang Mai City Center Key

1 Suan Dok Gate 5 Tha Phae Gate Street-by-Street map

see pp228–9
2 Wat Phra Sing 6 Warorot Market
3 Wat Chedi Luang 7 Night Bazaar
0 meters 500
4 Wat Chiang Man
0 yards 500

National Museum Chang Phuak Bus Station

Wat Chet Yot 550 yards (500 m)
Wat Pa Pao
M A N I N O P P H A R AT

CHIANG RAI
M U A

SI PHUM Chang Phuak McCormick Hospital

SI PHUM
Gate Arcade Bus Station
ARAK

1.2 miles (2km)

MUANG

Wat Chiang
G

CH
C H A I YA P H U M

Man
SA
SINGHARA

AN

WIANG KAEO Nakhon

Moat

MU

Ping Bridge
CH
G
RAT CHA

KH
PHRA

AR
T
MUN

LA

OE
O I K AO

NR

RATC H A WI THI MOI

C HA NG
AT
T

I N THAWARO R OT
Suan Dok Warorot
PHA KHI NAI

Gate Market
G

Tribal
POK

AN
CHABAN

Research
CH

Institute, Nawarat
Wat Phra Sing RAT CHA DAM T HA P H AE Bridge LAMPANG
Wat Suan Dok, NOE N Tha Phae
Wat U Mong, Gate
Wat Ram Poeng
K L AO

Wat Chedi Wat

DIN

Luang
SAMLAN

Bupparam Train Station

BUNRUANGRIT

MUANG
ARAK

CHAROEN

R AT C H A M A N K H A 0.6 miles (1 km)

Night
AENG
KOTCHASAN

LO I K
HRO Bazaar
KAMPH

I 7
KHLAN

Buak Hat SO
MUN

Public Park
P R AT H

MA

Chiang Mai
BAMRUNG BURI
I- L A
CHANG

Pin

Gate
ET

MP
g

Suan Prung CHA N G LO

HU

Airport R AT CHI A N G S A E N SI DON CHAI

1.2 miles (2 km) Gate
N

MAE HONG SON Wat

Chaimongkol

For keys to symbols see back flap

232  NORTHERN THAILAND

w Doi Saket

Off Hwy 118, 10 miles (16 km) NE of
Chiang Mai, Chiang Mai province.
n TAT, Chiang Mai (0-5324-8604).
£ @ Chiang Mai, then songthaew.
Open daily. &

Forming a triangle with Bo

Sang and San Kamphaeng,
the mountain of Doi Saket is
an ideal sight to combine with
these two towns on a day trip
from Chiang Mai.
The main reason for visiting
Doi Saket is its hilltop temple,
Wat Doi Saket, which offers
stunning views of the Chiang
Mai valley. The wat is reached
by a steep staircase of 300
steps, flanked on either side by
a naga. The temple complex
includes a modern wihan,
painted in red and gold, and a
white chedi. There is a huge,
seated Buddha on the hill top
and seven smaller Buddhas,
one for each day of the week.
Red and gold modern wihan of the hill
top Wat Doi Saket
Women constructing ornamental umbrellas in the village of Bo Sang
e Bo Sang

6 miles (9 km) E of Chiang Mai, Chiang
Mai province. * 2,600. @ from
Chiang Mai. n TAT, Chiang Mai
(0-5324-8604). ( daily.
_ Umbrella Fair (Jan).
Bo Sang is known throughout
Thailand as the “umbrella
village” on account of the
decorative umbrellas produced
here. The village is made up
almost entirely of shops and
factories involved in this craft.
Each umbrella has a wooden
handle, bamboo ribs, and a
covering of oiled rice paper,
silk, or cotton. Craftsmen
will usually add names or a
personalized design in
bold colors if requested.
The annual fair includes
competitions, exhibitions,
and a beauty contest.
Other handicrafts, including
silverware, celadon (a grayish-
green porcelain), and
lacquerware, are also sold here.
Aside from its umbrella making,
Bo Sang is also the heart of a
farming community. In the
wet season (June to October),
the rice fields are a deep green
color. From November to
January, the fields dry out
and turn golden. Farmers then
thresh the rice by hand.
Many houses in and around
Bo Sang are traditional, wooden
Northern Thai structures (see p40)
with spacious rooms. They are
typically built on stilts and set in
small gardens.
r San Kamphaeng

9 miles (13 km) E of Chiang Mai,
Chiang Mai province. * 44,000.
@ from Chiang Mai. n TAT, Chiang
Mai (0-5324-8604). ( daily.
This village, with its old, wooden
buildings and narrow streets, is
renowned for its silk and

Nagas: Mythical Serpents

Two-headed naga of Wat
Naga figures, seen throughout Thailand, are protective serpents. Chedi Luang, Chiang Saen
Acting as guardians against bad spirits, they often flank the walls of (see p252)
temples or the staircases up to them, and may also be carved on roofs,
doors, gables, and windows. The significance of nagas is deep-rooted
throughout Buddhist Asia, though their meaning may vary slightly
according to the country, with overlaps between Buddhism and
Hinduism. In Buddhism, their origins can be traced back to an episode in
the jataka tales (see p34) in which a garuda, or mythical bird, attacks and
subdues a naga that is trying to harm the Buddha. The naga subse-
quently becomes the Buddha’s guardian. Its protective powers are shown
when Mucilinda, a king of the nagas, grows several heads to shelter the
Buddha from a thunderstorm. Nagas are also believed to control rainfall
and are worshiped as givers of water during Songkran (see p240).

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33


Geyser bursting through the ground at the San Kamphaeng Hot Springs
handicraft products. There are
many factories here selling
good-quality silk, teak furniture,
silverware, lacquerware, jade,
or celadon. Prices can be high,
though bargaining (see p434)
often reduces the cost
significantly. An interesting
feature of most of the silk
factories are their exhibits of the
silk-making process. The whole
procedure is shown (see pp270–
71), from silk moths, through the
unraveling of the cocoons, to
the weaving of dyed silk thread
on traditional wooden looms.
Environs
To the east of San Kamphaeng,
just past the village of Mu
Song, are the caves of Tam
Muang On, with impressive
stalactites and stalagmites.
Farther east are the San
Kamphaeng Hot Springs,
offering therapeutic baths in
hot mineral water. Here, geysers
spurt to incredible heights.
} Tam Muang On
8.5 miles (14 km) E of San Kamphaeng.
Open daily.
} San Kamphaeng Hot Springs
12.5 miles (20 km) E of San
Kamphaeng. Open daily. &
NORTHWEST HEARTLAND
t Lamphun

Lamphun province. * 97,000. £
@ n TAT, Chiang Mai (0-5324-8604).
( daily. _ Lamyai Festival (Aug).
This ancient town was the
capital of the Haripunchai
Kingdom from AD 750–1281.
Today, Lamphun is made up of
large wooden houses beside the
Kuang River and is characterized
by its peaceful atmosphere,
ancient temples, and surroun-
ding countryside of rice fields.
Lamphun’s most important
temple is Wat Phra That
Haripunchai. The
present compound
was probably founded
in AD 1044 by King
Athitayarai of Hari-
punchai, though the
150-ft (46-m) high
central chedi, topped by a
nine-tier umbrella of
pure gold, is thought to Buddha head,
date from 897. In the Lamphun National the town of Nong
1930s, the temple was
Museum
renovated by Khrubaa
Siwichai, one of the most
revered monks in Northern
Thailand. One unusual structure that features competitions and
is the rare, pyramid-shaped
 233
chedi in the northwest of the
compound. The large bot
houses a reclining Buddha
image, while a 15th-century
Lanna Buddha is kept in the
main wihan. Adjoining it is a
19th-century library, with a
staircase flanked by nagas.
To the right of the library is
an open pavilion displaying a
huge gong cast in 1860, alleged
to be the largest in the world.
Outside the main compound is
a smaller bot, inside of which is
a so-called “happy Buddha,” a
fat, smiling Chinese-style image.
The nearby Lamphun
National Museum is small
but excellent. It has carvings
and artifacts from many
periods, especially the
Dvaravati, Haripunchai, and
Lanna kingdoms. Modern
artifacts include an ornate
black and gold howdah
(see p212) and naga
decorations. The collection
of Buddha images covers
many schools of sculpture.
Wat Chama Thewi (or Wat
Kukut), just west of Lamphun
on Highway 1015, is noted for
its two chedis, thought to be
among the oldest in Thailand.
Both built in 1218, they are
the last surviving examples
of Dvaravati architecture.
The larger, tiered structure
is adorned with Buddha
images, and the smaller one is
decorated with Hindu gods.
E Lamphun National Museum
Inthayongyot Rd. Tel 0-5351-1186.
Open 8:30am–4pm Wed–Sun. &
Environs
Pasang, a small town
19 miles (30 km) south
of Lamphun, produces
excellent cottonwear
of unique designs,
especially sarongs
and shirts. They are sold
through many outlets
in the town. Lamphun
province, in particular
Chang Kheun, to the
north, is renowned for
its lamyai, or longan (see p137)
fruit. It is celebrated in a festival
a Miss Lamyai beauty contest.
234  NORTHERN THAILAND

y Doi Inthanon National Park


Doi Inthanon, at 8,400 ft (2,565 m), is the highest mountain
in Thailand. It is located in the 105-sq mile (272-sq km) Doi
Inthanon National Park, and, only 36 miles (58 km) from
Chiang Mai, is a popular destination for one-day excursions.
The park has many types of habitat and a wide range of
mammals, such as leopard cats, pangolins, and flying
squirrels. The area is also popular for bird-watching,
being home to nearly 400 bird species, many from North Twin Chedis
Asia (including mountain hawk eagles and Eurasian This shrine is inside one of the
twin chedis of Phra That Naph­
woodcocks). Karen and Hmong peoples (see pp210–11) amataneedon, built for King
also live here. In contrast to the rest of Thailand, the Bhumibol’s 60th birthday.
climate on Doi Inthanon can be chilly, so visitors to the
park are advised to take warm clothing.

Doi Inthanon
8,400 ft
(2,565 m)

J
•

Siriphum waterfall
•

Mae Pan
waterfall

Spectacular View
Walkers on Doi Inthanon are treated to
impressive views. On a clear day it is
possible to see for many miles over
the forested landscape. Mae Chaem

Sphagnum Moss
Doi Inthanon’s cool climate
allows plants such as mosses,
ferns, and lichens to thrive.
At the mountain’s summit,
sphagnum mosses form a
kind of bog, the only habitat
of this kind in Thailand.

Timber Beetle KEY

For protection, this
1 Montane evergreen forests
beetle’s markings
are found on the upper levels of
ape the warning
Doi Inthanon.
coloration of
wasps. Its larvae 2 Deciduous and sub-montane
are hatched in the forests are found in low­lying areas
trunks or branches of the national park.
of trees.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 NORTHWEST HEARTLAND  235

Orchids
VisiTOrs’ CHeCKLisT
Wild orchids are in
abundance on Doi
Practical Information
Inthanon. On the
Park HQ off Hwy 1009 (which is
higher slopes of the
off Hwy 108), S of Chiang Mai.
mountain, 8,200 ft
Tel 0-5328-6728-9. Open 6am–
(2,500 m) above sea
6pm daily. n TAT, Chiang Mai
level, pink and white
(0-5324-8604). & 0 =
orchids (see p224)
∑ dnp.go.th
can be seen draped
over the branches Transport
of evergreen trees. @ from Chom Thong to Mae
Klang falls, then songthaew to
Doi Inthanon summit.

White-Crested
Laughing Thrush
This bird takes its
name from its
distinctive white
crest. Its common
habitat is the
forest crowning
the upper slopes
of Doi Inthanon.

•
Vachiratarn waterfall

Borichinda
cave
•
•

Mae Klang
waterfall

Chiang Mai

•
Hmong Tribespeople
Chom
Thong The Hmong (see p210) have been here since
the 1890s. Their slash-and-burn agriculture
Hot has led to deforestation, but government
programs to reduce this are now underway.

Mae Ya Waterfall
This is estimated to be
Key
the highest waterfall
in the whole of
Road Thailand. Falling over
Trail 820 ft (250 m), Mae Ya
waterfall is also one of
Park border
the most beautiful
sights at Doi Inthanon.
0 kilometers 2

0 miles 2

For keys to symbols see back flap

236  NORTHERN THAILAND
Rural landscape around Hot, a town in the
Ping River Valley
u Ping River Valley

Chiang Mai province. n TAT, Chiang
Mai (0-5324-8604). @ Chiang Mai,
then songthaew.
Nearly 600 km (370 miles) long,
the Ping River is one of the
major waterways in Northern
Thailand. It rises on the
Myanmar border and flows
on to the Bhumibol Reservoir
before merging
with the Wang,
Yom, and Nan
rivers. This
becomes the
Chao Phraya Wooden carving on the bot of Wat Phra
River at Nakhon
Sawan, in the
Central Plains. The valley is a
rural area where traditional life
can still be observed.
Chom Thong, just south of
Chiang Mai, at the junction of
Highway 108 and the road to
Doi Inthanon National Park
(see pp234–5), is a small but
busy town. It boasts one major
sight, Wat Phra That Si Chom
Thong. The wat was built to
enshrine a relic of the Buddha
and is still an important
pilgrimage site for Buddhists.
Many will try to make the
journey at least once a year. This
wat is also widely considered to
be one of the most beautiful in
Northern Thailand. The gilded
chedi, built in 1451, is of
Myanmar design, as is the
mid-16th-century bot, which
features intricate woodcarvings
depicting flowers, birds, and
nagas (see p232). A meditation
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
center and a room displaying
thrones, religious antiques, and
weapons are also located within
the temple complex.
The deep Chaem River Valley,
west of Chom Thong, is known
locally for its many varieties of
butterfly and moth. Several
villages, spread along the
twisting road within the valley,
are known collectively as the
town of Mae Chaem. The town,
once famous for weaving, is
now modernizing rapidly. Its
main temple, Wat Pa Daet, is
worth visiting for its well-
preserved Lanna buildings and
extensive murals.
At the southern end of the
valley is the small town of Hot.
Originally located 10 miles
(5 km) farther downstream,
the town was relocated to its
present site in 1964, when
the land was flooded to form
the Bhumibol Reservoir. Today,
this reservoir is a major source
of Thailand’s electricity. Ruins
of the original town can still
be seen beside the reservoir,
though they are limited to only
a few chedis.
Excavation of
the site has
turned up
amulets,
stucco
That Si Chom Thong carvings and
gold jewelry.
These artifacts are now on
display in Chiang Mai’s National
Museum (see p231). Modern-
day Hot, meanwhile, is an
important market town and
a useful staging post for
journeys westward to the
town of Mae Sariang.
Chedi of the 19th-century Wat Chong Sung in Mae Sariang
i Mae Sariang

Mae Hong Son province. * 48,000.
@ n TAT, Chiang Mai (0-5324-8604).
( daily.
Mae Sariang is a pleasant town
on the Yuam River. The area has
historical links with nearby
Myanmar, a fact that is reflected
in Mae Sariang’s architecture
and by its large community of
Myanmar Muslims. People of
the Karen hill tribe – the area’s
main ethnic group – can be
seen in the central market.
Two temples near the bus
station have Myanmar features:
multilayered roofs and vivid
orange and yellow exterior
ornamentation. Wat Chong
Sung (also called Wat
Uthayarom) was built in 1896,
while Wat Si Bunruang dates
from 1939.
Environs
The area around Mae Sariang is
mountainous and forested, with
many winding roads. Organized
trips by boat or songthaew
(which can be arranged in town)
make the 30 mile (45-km)
journey from Mae Sariang to Mae
Sam Laep, a Karen settlement
on the Myanmar border next to
the Salawin River. This river was
once infamous for drug running
and gem smuggling. Today, Mae
Sam Laep is a staging post for
the (mostly illegal) teak log trade.
Political troubles in Myanmar
have made this area a zone for
refugees, though some Myanmar
minorities, such as the Lawa,
have lived here longer than Thais.
 NORTHWEST HEARTLAND  237

The History of Opium in Thailand

Opium was first grown in Northern Thailand in the late 19th century, when hill tribes
(see pp210–11) arrived from Southern China, where the drug was a major commodity.
Grown on poor soil at high altitudes and easily transported, it was in fact their most
profitable cash crop. Opium production was outlawed in Thailand in 1959, but flourished
nonetheless during the Vietnam War. It was during this lucrative period that power
struggles erupted for control of the Golden Triangle’s (see pp250–51) poppy fields.
The KMT (see p246), allowed by the Thai government to control the illicit drugs trade,
and the Shan United Army, based in Burma (now Myanmar), were the largest of the
many contenders, including the Thai, Burmese, and Lao armies. Opium production has
been cut by more than 80 percent since the 1960s, and most hill tribes now grow other
crops, but Thailand is still used as a channel for opium produced in nearby countries.

Britain and China

fought the Opium
Wars of 1839–42
and 1856–60 over
British rights to
import opium from
India. After the
wars the drug was
Smoking opium in custom-built dens legalized in China
became popular in parts of Asia – and freely traded.
especially China – in the 19th century.

Short sickles, used to score poppy heads, are The thin hillside soil easily supports poppies,
just some of a number of poppy-cultivating which favor the low-nutrient, high-alkaline
implements exhibited in the House of Opium. conditions at altitudes of over 3,300 ft (1000 m).

Opium Production
This mural in the House of
Opium Museum, Sop Ruak
(see p252), is one of a series
showing traditional poppy
harvesting for opium
production, a process
normally carried out in
December and January.
The museum also houses
artifacts depicting the war
between the KMT and the
Shan United Army.

Since the 1980s, cash crops,

including cabbage, tea, and
coffee, have begun to replace
poppies grown for opium
production. Today, fields of
these new crops are a common
sight in Northern Thailand.

King Bhumibol, concerned

about opiate addiction and the
illegal drug trade in his country,
has been particularly active in
encouraging replacement crops.
238  northern thailand

o Wat Phra That Lampang Luang


one of the most famous temples in northern thailand, Wat Phra
that lampang luang is also one of the most attractive. the main
buildings were constructed in the late 15th century on the site
of an 8th-century fortress. this had been built on a mound to
protect it from attack and was further fortified by three parallel
earthen ramparts separated by moats. the ramparts are still
visible in the village around the present wat. in 1736 a local
hero, tip Chang, successfully defended the temple from
the Burmese. the buildings are distinctive for their graceful Buddha in Wihan Phra Phut
A huge Buddha image sits
architecture and richly colored interiors, while the revered inside the 13th-century
Phra Kaeo don tao image, allegedly carved from the same wihan, the oldest
jadeite block as the emerald Buddha (see p87), is kept in the building on the site.
museum behind the main complex.

Wihan Phra Phut

With its beautifully
carved façade
and two-tiered
roof, this wihan,
from 1802, is
a masterpiece
of Lanna
architecture.

Main entrance

Five Buddhas in Wihan Luang

The huge, open-sided main wihan,
which dates from 1496, has an
elegant, three-tiered roof. Inside
are five seated Buddha images.

KEY

1 Bodhi tree Main

2 Bot Staircase
Flanked by nagas, this
3 Wihan Phra Chao Sila
stairway leads up to a
4 Wihan Ton Kaew 15th-century ceremonial
gatehouse.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 northwest heartland  239

Ho Phra Phuttabat
VisiTors’ CHeCKLisT
This small, elevated
mondop houses a
Practical Information
sculpture of the Buddha’s
Off Hwy 1, 11 miles (18 km) SW
Footprint, which is
of Lampang, Lampang province.
worshipped by pilgrims
n TAT, Lampang (0-5421-8823
during important
or 0-5422-6812). open 7:30am–
festivals. Women may
5pm daily. = _ Luang Wiang
not enter the building.
Lakhon (Nov).
Transport
@ Lampang, then songthaew or
taxi, or join tour from Lampang,
Chiang Mai, or Lamphun.

. Main Chedi
The subtle green and blue hues
of the 15th-century chedi are
due to centuries of rainfall,
which have oxidized the
copper. Inside is a hair, said
to be from the Buddha.

. Murals in Wihan Nam Tam

These faded murals, which depict
16th-century life and scenes from the
jataka tales (see p34), adorn the walls
of what may be Thailand’s oldest
surviving wooden structure.

Ku in Wihan
Luang
The Buddha
Pillar Detail image, Phra Chao
This black lacquered pillar, Lang Thong,
inlaid with gold, is typical which dates from
of the intricate decoration 1563, sits in this
of the whole temple gilded brick ku
complex. (Lao-style prang).
240  northern thailand
Horse-drawn carriages, a popular tourist attraction in Lampang
p Lampang

Lampang province. * 94,000. ~ £
@ n TAT, Lampang (0-5421-8823 or
0-5422-6812). ( daily. _ Luang
Wiang Lakon (Feb).
The second-largest town in
Northern Thailand, Lampang is
still growing rapidly as a trading
center. It offers much of the
historic interest of Chiang Mai,
but without the overt commer-
cialization. Lampang is also a
good base for excursions and
travel within Northern Thailand.
The town was originally
inhabited in the 7th century.
The following century, when it
was still called Kelang Nakorn, it
became part of the Haripunchai
Empire, which centered on
Lamphun (see p233). In the
19th century, British traders
came here from Myanmar and
turned the town into a teak
production center, bringing
Myanmar workers with them.
The result was the many teak
houses and Myanmar-style
temples seen throughout the
town today. Teak furniture is just
one of the traditional crafts still
produced in Lampang; others
are cottonware and ceramics.
Modern Lampang is
distinctive for its brightly
colored horse-drawn carriages,
another surviving tradition.
This mode of transportation
was introduced to Lampang
in the 19th century, and it is
the only town in Thailand
that uses it.
One of the most important
temples in Northern Thailand is
Wat Phra That Lampang
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
(see p87), which was later
moved to Bangkok’s Wat Phra
Kaeo. During the same period,
a similar jasper Buddha image,
now in Wat Phra That Lampang
Luang, was kept here. Within
the compound is the Lanna
Museum, displaying religious
Lanna artifacts.
Ban Sao Nak (“many pillars
house”), southeast of Wat Phra
Kaeo Don Tao, is a Lanna
structure built in 1896. It takes
its name from the 116 square
teak pillars supporting the
building. Now a museum, it is
Luang (see pp238–9), to the furnished with Myanmar and
southwest of the town, which Thai antiques. The sumptuous
is famous for its impressive decoration includes
19th-century murals. lacquerware, ceramics, and
Lampang town focuses on the silverware. Wat Pongsanuk Tai,
south side of the Wang River,
although the main sights are
found to the north of it. Of its
temples, the most interesting is
Wat Phra Kaeo Don Tao. The wat
is thought to have been built
about the same time the town
was founded, but only the
165-ft (50-m) chedi survives
from the original buildings. The
distinctive mondop is notable
for its nine-tier teak roof with
intricate carvings and a bronze
Buddha in the Mandalay style.
Between 1436 and 1468 the
temple housed the revered Interior of Ban Sao Nak, Lampang,
Emerald Buddha, or Phra Kaeo decorated with antique crafts
Songkran Festivities in the North
Celebrated nationwide, but most exuberantly in and around Chiang
Mai, Songkran (see p50) is one of Thailand’s major festivals. Held over
three days from April 12th–14th (though celebrations carry on until
the 15th in towns such as Chiang Mai), Songkran marks the start of
the Buddhist New Year. This public holiday has, over the centuries,
evolved from a purely religious event, in which Buddha images are
bathed with water to purify them, into a much greater celebration of
water in the hot season. Nowadays, buckets of water are thrown over
everyone in the streets (unsuspecting tourists make the best targets).
Some of Songkran’s
original customs,
such as younger
Thais paying respect
to their elders and
monks by sprinkling
their hands with
perfumed water, are
also maintained.
River procession in
Lampang, part of the
Songkran festivities

Exterior of the charming Wat Si Chum
to the west of Ban Sao Nak,
is a distinctive late
18th-century Lanna temple
with a copper chedi. An
enclosure in the mondop
contains a Bodhi tree that
is surrounded by four
Buddha images.
The 19th-century Myanmar-
style Wat Si Chum, located
in the south of the city, is
constructed mostly from
beautifully carved teak. The
exquisite lacquerwork inside
the main chamber shows life
in Lampang during the
19th century.
E Lanna Museum
Phra Kaeo Rd. Tel 0-5321-1364.
Open daily. &
E Ban Sao Nak
Ratwana Rd. Open daily. &
a Thai Elephant
Conservation
Center

Off Hwy 11, 24 miles (38 km) NW of
Lampang, Lampang province.
n TAT, Lampang (0-5421-8823).
Tel 0-5424-7875. £ @ Lampang,
then songthaew. Open daily; shows
9:30–11am (2pm Sat & Sun). &
This is one of the best elephant
training camps in Northern
Thailand. About 12 animals,
three to five years old, arrive
here each year to be trained,
and there are about 100 in
total. Although their ability
peaks between the ages of
40 and 50, the elephants may
remain at the camp until the
official retirement age of 60.
During the five-year training
NORTHWEST HEARTLAND
period the elephants learn
a variety of tasks, including
stacking, carrying, and pushing
logs. Nowadays, such chores
are part of the performances
put on for tourists, and there is
contro-versy surrounding this
form of entertainment and its
impact on the elephants’ well-
being (see p448). There is also
a small museum focusing
on the culture and the
history of elephants in
Thailand (see p257).
Environs
On the opposite side of the
highway, the Thung Kwian
Forest Market sells a wide
range of plants and medicinal
and culinary herbs, as well as
lizards, beetles, and snakes.
Government campaigns
have attempted to end the
sale of endangered species
(see p223), but some, such as
pangolins (scaly anteaters),
are still sold here.
( Thung Kwian Forest Market
Off Hwy 11, 22 miles (35 km) NW of
Lampang. Open daily.
Busy main street of Uttaradit, the birthplace of King Taksin
 241
s Uttaradit

Uttaradit province. * 102,000. £
@ n TAT, Uttaradit (0-5525-2743).
( daily. _ Langsat Fair (Oct).
This provincial capital,
relatively free of modern
development and tourist
paraphernalia, features on
few visitors’ itineraries.
Nevertheless, the town’s
location makes it a convenient
staging post between the
North Central Plains and
Northern Thailand.
Uttaradit rose to prominence
during the Sukhothai era, and
just prior to the collapse of the
kingdom at the end of the
13th century the town marked
its northern border. Uttaradit’s
most famous citizen was King
Taksin, who was born here in
the mid-18th century.
He reunited Thailand after
Myanmar sacked Ayutthaya in
1767. The town is made up of
old teak buildings and narrow
streets. The main temple of
interest is Wat Tha Thanon,
behind the train station.
Inside is the Luang Pho
Phet, a revered bronze
Lanna Buddha.
To the west of Uttaradit is
Wat Phra Boromathat, which
is also known as Wat That
Thung Yang. Its wihan is an
example of the Lao Luang
Prabang architectural style.
Uttaradit province is famous
for the quality of its agricultural
produce, particularly the
langsat fruit.

FAR NORTH
The Far North of Thailand is known as the Golden Triangle – the
meeting point of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos and an area historically
associated with opium production. Nowadays, this picturesque region
with numerous hill-tribe villages attracts large numbers of trekkers.
Less well known delights in the Far North include, southeast of the
Golden Triangle, quiet towns such as Phrae and Nan.
The fertile flood plains of the Mekong,
which touch the tip of the Far North before
running east into Laos, contrast with the
breathtaking beauty of the mountains in
the west and east of the area. Here can be
found remote villages inhabited by hill
tribes such as the Mien and Akha, who still
preserve their traditional way of life. There
are also settlements populated by ex-
Chinese Nationalist soldiers and their
descendants, who migrated here after
Mao Tse-tung’s Communist army won
the Chinese civil war in 1949.
Chiang Rai is the main town in the Far
North. Though not picturesque, it has a
few sights and is used as a trekking base.
Of greater interest are the towns strung
out by the Mekong along the Myanmar
and Lao borders, including the ancient
city of Chiang Saen and Chiang Khong,
a Thai Lue settlement.
Thai Lue farmer plowing the fields in the time-honored way
Golden Buddha statues grace the shrine inside Wat Phumin, Nan
NORTHERN THAILAND  243
Most visitors to northern Thailand
travel from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai,
and then north to the Golden Triangle;
thus some sights to the east are
relatively unknown. The old, walled
settlement of Phrae, for instance, with
some of Thailand’s largest teak buildings,
is visited by few tourists, despite being
easily accessible from the Central Plains
and Chiang Mai. The town of Nan is
more remote, set in a valley far from the
main highway to the Golden Triangle.
The diversion is worthwhile, if only to
see the murals at Wat Phumin. Northeast
of here, Doi Phu Kha National Park offers
superb bird-watching. To the south of
Nan, and far from the beaten track, is
extraordinarily diverse scenery ranging
from the earth pillars of Sao Din
and Phea Muang Phi to the vast
Sirikit Reservoir.
244  NortherN thailaNd

Exploring the Far North Tachilek

thailand’s northernmost region is, for many people, synonymous MAE SAI
with the Golden triangle. this area around the meeting point of
three national borders still conjures up images of untamed DOI TUNG
wilderness, remote hill-tribe villages, and opium barons.
there remains more than a grain of truth in this MAE SALONG
E TOUR
reputation, but the Far North is also developing IANGL
Doi Hua Mae Raeng N TR
2249 m G OLDE
rapidly as a tourist destination, centered around Mae Chan

the one-time capital of the lanna Kingdom, THA TON

Ko k
Chiang rai. the major attraction for visitors FANG
is the spectacular geography of the region, Doi Ang Khang CHIANG RAI
1300 m
best explored on foot or motorbike. touring San Ton Phao
through the mighty forested mountains along
Pa Sak
the Myanmar (Burma) and lao borders, and
Chiang Mai
beside the winding Mekong, as it skirts the tip
of the region, is a richly rewarding experience. MAE SARUAI

Tha Ko

Sights at a Glance
1 Fang WIANG PA PAO
2 Tha Ton
3 Mae Salong Lao Mae Chai

4 Doi Tung
5 Mae Sai Mae Khachan
PHAYAO
7 The Golden Triangle Apex
Pong Nam
(Sop Ruak) Rong
8 Chiang Saen Huay Khian
Wa n g

9 Chiang Khong Chiang Mai

0 Chiang Rai pp254–5
Key
q Mae Saruai
w Wiang Pa Pao Major road
e Phayao Minor road
r Ngao Scenic route
t Nong Bua Railway Chae Hom NGAO
y Doi Phu Kha National Park
International border
u Nan pp258–61 Kiu Lom
Summit
i Phrae pp262–3 Dam
o Sirikit Reservoir
Cham Pui

Tours
Thasi
6 Golden Triangle

Lampang

0 kilometers 25

0 miles 15

A gathering of Lisu tribeswomen in traditional costume

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 Fa r N o r t h  245

SOP RUAK

CHIANG SAEN CHIANG

KHONG
ek
M

ong
Ban Hok

Chom Phu

Ta Luang

Thoeng

Buddha image and 19th-century murals in Wat Nong Bua, Nong Bua

Chiang Kham

Getting Around
DOI PHU K
g
In

Chiang Rai, Nan, and Phrae

Nan

Song Khwae

Chun Bo Yuak are all served by domestic

airports. Highway 1 is
Thailand’s major north–
HA

Pua south road. Other highways

Pong
Doi Phu Kha in the Far North are the 101
NONG BUA 1980 m
and the 103. A scenic boat
N AT I O

trip operates along the Kok

River between Tha Ton and
Chiang Rai. An alternative
NAL

Chiang Muan Santisuk

way of getting to smaller,
m

out-of-the-way places, is to
Yo

PA R

join an organized trip. There

NAN
K

Sa Lap are no train services. For local

Mae Yom
Doi Luang
1369 m
trips there are metered taxis,
National Park tuk-tuks and songthaews.

Pa Lao Klang Wiang Sa

Pang Mon
Nan Rai Dao

Sao Din
Song
Na Noi
Rong Kwang
n
Na

Phea
Muang Phi
Huay Noi Ka
PHRAE Na Mun

Wat Phra
That Chaw Hae Fak Tha

SIRIKIT
RESERVOIR

Nam Pat
Uttaradit

Ornate pavilion at Wat Phra Bat in the

center of Phrae
For keys to symbols see back flap
246  NORTHERN THAILAND

3 Mae Salong
(Santikhiree)
 ()
Chiang Rai province. * 15,000.
@ Chiang Rai, then songthaew.
n 0-5371-7433. ( daily.

One of the main settlements in

Northern Thailand, the hillside
town of Mae Salong is also one
of the most scenic. Mae Salong
was founded in 1962 by the
Kuomintang (KMT), or Chinese
Nationalist Army, following their
Karen tribespeople trading their wares at Fang’s daily market defeat in China by Mao Zedong
in 1949. It became a center for
1 Fang whose natural energy is used exiled Chinese soldiers, who
 to power a nearby geothermal used it as a base for incursions
plant. To the southwest of Fang, into China. The Thai military
Chiang Mai province. * 111,000. Highway 1249 leads to the agreed to let the KMT stay if
@ from Chiang Mai. n TAT, Chiang peak of Doi Ang Khang, via they helped to suppress
Mai (0-5324-8604). ( daily. several Lisu, Lahu, and Hmong Communism, which they
hill-tribe villages. believed would become rife
This town was founded as a among the hill tribes at the time
trading center in 1268 by King of the Vietnam War. In return for
Mengrai, who took advantage 2 Tha Ton their help, the KMT were
of the site’s location at the head allowed to control and tax the
of a valley. At the beginning of
 local opium trade. As a result,
the 19th century the town was Chiang Mai province. * 21,000. the area around Mae Salong
destroyed by Burmese raiders, @ from Chiang Mai to Fang, then was relatively lawless and
and it lay deserted until 1880. songthaew. n TAT, Chiang Mai dangerous until the 1980s.
Today Fang is effectively a (0-5324-8604). When Khun Sa, the opium
border town between the areas warlord (see p237), retreated to
inhabited by Thais and hill tribes Located on a bend in the Kok Myanmar in the early 1980s,
(see pp210–11). The local Mien, River, picturesque Tha Ton is the Thai government began to
Karen, and Lahu tribes sell their essentially a staging post for have some success in pacifying
goods at Fang’s market, and this riverboats that make regular the area. This was helped
has made it an important trips from here to Chiang Rai. when, soon after the end of
trading center. Excursions can be arranged this turbulent period, Mae
Fang is characterized by teak at guesthouses in town, and Salong was officially renamed
houses. The influence of may often be combined Santikhiree (“hill of peace”), in
nearby Myanmar is seen in with visits to nearby tribal an attempt to rid the town of
many structures, such as villages or hot springs. its former image. The new term
Wat Jong Paen, located Tha Ton’s chief tourist is used for both the town and
in the north of town. attraction is Wat Tha the 3,950-ft (1,200-m) peak that
The most impressive Ton, which is notable
temple in Fang, for a huge white
it features a Buddha with a
Myanmar-style, striking golden
multiroofed wihan. topknot. The
Imposing white Buddha temple dominates
Environs overlooking Tha Ton the town from its
Drug trading in the hillside location to
Fang area has been significant in the west, offering splendid
the past, and fighting between panoramic views.
rival drug factions in Myanmar
still occasionally spills across the Environs
border. It is wise to check the The road leading from Tha Ton
situation with the local tourist to Doi Mae Salong, 26 miles
office before venturing on a (43 km) to the northeast, takes
guided trek. Sights in the region in impressive mountain
include, some 6 miles (10 km) scenery and villages along the Chinese medicinal herbs and spices for sale
west of Fang, sulfur springs, Myanmar border. at Mae Salong market
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

Modern temple on the hill top of Doi
Mae Salong
rises above it, Doi Mae Salong.
A temple has been built at the
summit, giving spectacular
views of the surrounding
rolling hills, which are dotted
with hill-tribe villages. Akha
and Mien villagers can be seen
at the market in Mae Salong,
but the town’s main
population is made up of old
KMT soldiers and their
descendants. The sight of low,
Chinese-style houses made of
bamboo and the sound of
Yunnanese (a Chinese dialect)
give the overall impression that
Mae Salong is more of a
Chinese than Thai town.
A road built to Mae Salong in
the early 1980s made the
settlement less isolated. Opium
production is now suppressed,
having been replaced by cash
A terraced hillside near Mae Salong, cultivated with new crops aimed at replacing opium as the main source of income
Big golden Buddha image overlooking the Mekong River at Sop Ruak, the apex of the Golden Triangle
crops such as cabbage, tea, and
Chinese herbs and medicines.
This produce is sold in the
town’s market.
4 Doi Tung

Chiang Rai province. n TAT, Chiang
Rai (0-5371-7433). @ from Mae Chan
or Mae Sai to turn-off for Doi Tung,
then songthaew to summit.
The mountain of Doi Tung is an
impressive limestone outcrop
dominating the Mekong flood
plain near Mae Sai. The narrow
road snakes through monsoon
forest, winding its way up to
the 5,900-ft (1,800-m) peak.
On a clear day the views of
Myanmar and lowland
Thailand from the summit
are stunning.
The name of the mountain
means “flag peak,” so called
because in AD 911 King
Achutarat of Chiang Saen
ordered a giant flag to be flown
from the summit to mark the
site where two chedis were to
be built, allegedly to house a
piece of the Buddha’s
collarbone. Still a major
pilgrimage site, the chedis are
at the heart of Wat Phra That
Doi Tung, which was renovated
in the early 1900s. Also here is a
large, rotund Chinese-style
Buddha image. Pilgrims throw
coins into its navel to make
merit. The area around Doi
FA R N O R T H  247
Tung has historically been the
site of opium production, the
poppy fields guarded by hill
tribespeople and the KMT.
The area has become the focus
for a rural development project
aimed at increasing central
government control over the
area. In 1988 Doi Tung Royal
Villa was built on the mountain
as part of a plan to increase
tourism in the area and to
discourage nearby hill tribes
from producing opium.
Originally a summer residence
for the late mother of King
Bhumibol, the villa has an
attractive flower garden
and a restaurant. While the
plan has largely succeeded,
local villagers have become
dependent on hand-outs from
the development project and
from tourists.
Doi Tung is now connected
to the other main settlements
of the area by good roads.
These make fascinating driving
into regions that were once the
preserve of drug barons. Mae
Salong and Mae Sai may be
reached by these routes, via
Lahu and Akha hill-tribe
villages. Although a strong Thai
army presence has reduced
drug trading in the area
substantially, visitors are
advised not to leave main
roads.
E Doi Tung Royal Villa
Hwy 1149. Open 7am–5:30pm daily.
& Gardens: Open 6am–6pm. &
250  NORTHERN THAILAND
5 Mae Sai

Chiang Rai province. * 58,000. @ n
TAT, Chiang Rai (0-5371-7433). ( daily.
The northernmost town in
Thailand, Mae Sai is separated
from Myanmar (Burma) only by
a bridge. The town bustles with
traders from the neighboring
country who come here to sell
their wares. Among the handi-
crafts are lacquerware, gems,
and jade items, mostly made in
Myanmar. Though the town
itself is nondescript, there are
good views over the Sai River to
Myanmar. Wat Phra That Doi
Wao also has a good vista.
Environs
To visit the town of Tachilek, in
Myanmar, visitors have to exit
Thailand at the border bridge in
Mae Sai. Mynamar Immigration
charges a 500-baht fee for a
temporary visa that allows a
24-hour stay. Most people
simply look around the market
and return to Mae Sai. Beware
of buying counterfeit goods
such as DVDs, CDs, and mobile
phones in Tachilek, since Thai
customs may confiscate them.
South of Mae Sai is Tham
Luang, a large cave complex
with crystals that change color
in the light. Farther south are
more caves, Tham Pum and
Tham Pla, with lakes inside.
} Tham Luang
Off Hwy 110, 3.5 miles (6 km) S of Mae
Sai. Open daily. & 8
} Tham Pum and Tham Pla
Off Hwy 110, 8 miles (13 km) S of Mae
Sai. Open daily. & 8
Tobacco-curing houses near the Myanmar
border, outside Mae Sai
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
6 Golden Triangle Driving Tour
The Golden Triangle is a 75,000 sq-mile (195,000 sq-km)
area spanning parts of Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar
(Burma). The area is historically connected to the opium
and heroin trades (thus “golden”), but it has much more to
interest visitors. This tour takes in its best features: superb
views of the “apex” of the Golden Triangle, where the three
countries meet; hill-tribe villages nestling amid stunning
mountain scenery; and the historical towns of Chiang
Saen and Chiang Khong. Illicit opium trading is thought
to continue in the region, however, and visitors should
use a qualified guide and take extra care near the
Myanmar border, which can be dangerous.
3 Saam Yekh Akha
As in every Akha village,
small sculptures of
people, representing
human life, decorate
the village gates. These
are meant to warn
spirits that only
humans may enter.
2 Doi Mae Salong
This mountain, the site of the mainly
Chinese settlement of Mae Salong
J
(see pp246–7), is set amid beautiful
rolling scenery.
4 Pha Dua
This Mien village sells textiles
and handicrafts. Visitors may
also see elaborate rituals and
1 Tha Ton ceremonies based on the local
Located near the Myanmar hill tribe’s religion, a mixture of
border, Tha Thon (see p246) animism and Chinese Taoism.
is a staging post between the
lowlands and the mountains.
A huge white Buddha image,
visible from miles around, Tips for Drivers
faces eastward over the town
and surrounding countryside. Tour length: 125 miles (200 km).
Stopping-off points: Mae Sai,
Chiang Saen, and Chiang Khong
all have restaurants, guesthouses,
and gas stations. Smaller roads
0 kilometers 15 may be difficult for travel,
0 miles 10 especially in the wet season, so it
is best to use the numbered
roads above.
 FA R N O R T H  251

6 Mae Sai
Wat Phra That Doi Wao, on a hilltop
outside Mae Sai, is the town’s best
temple. The bot features carvings
of the Buddha.
5 Doi Tung
This impressive
mountain is the site
of the Doi Tung Royal
7 Sop Ruak
Myanm ar Villa (see p247), which
This village (see p252), with its daily market,
(Bu rm a) has a colorful, English-
thrives on its location at the meeting point
Tachilek
•
style flower garden.
of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos.

Mekhong

Laos
J

Th a i la n d

Mae •
0 Chiang Khong
Key
Chan
Though most people pass non-stop
Major road
through Chiang Khong (see p253)
Minor road en route to Laos, the town’s Wat
International border Luang is well worth seeing.

9 Wat Phra That Pha Ngao

This 10th-century temple (see p253)
is superbly sited on a hilltop south
of Chiang Saen, and offers exhil-
k
Ko arating views of the surrounding
countryside. It is distinctive for its
Chiang Rai •
bas relief work on the wihan and
its chedi of shiny white marble.

8 Chiang Saen
Visitors should not miss this town
(see pp252–3) of ruined temples and
teak trees, once the capital of a small
kingdom. Today it boasts an excellent
branch of the National Museum and
a daily market specializing in Thai Lue
fabrics and souvenirs.
252  NORTHERN THAILAND

Farmers using traditional methods to cultivate rice in paddies near Chiang Saen

7 The Golden spot, as evidenced by its many 8 Chiang Saen

Triangle Apex shops, restaurants, and hotels.
A museum, the House of

(Sop Ruak) Opium, displays artifacts Chiang Rai province. * 47,000. @
 () relating to opium production. 4 n TAT, Chiang Rai (0-5374-4674).
It details a battle between the ( daily.
42 miles (68 km) NE of Chiang Rai, KMT army (see p246) and the
Chiang Rai province. @ from Chiang now-deposed opium lord, Khun One of the oldest towns in
Saen. 4 from Chiang Saen. n TAT, Sa (see p237), over control of the Thailand, Chiang Saen is set
Chiang Rai (0-5371-7433). local opium trade. The battle, beautifully on the bank of the
which established the notoriety Mekong River. The town was
The apex of the Golden Triangle of the Golden Triangle, took founded in 1328 by
is the point at which the place in 1967. Saenphu, the grandson
borders of Thailand, Myanmar But the area’s main of King Mengrai, as a
(Burma), and Laos meet. The attraction is the powerful fortification
junction, at a bend in the Mekong. Boat trips with many temples.
Mekong River, is near the village give views of Laos There is evidence,
of Sop Ruak. Historically, the and of the Golden however, from some
“Golden Triangle” referred to a Triangle Paradise of Chiang Saen’s
much wider region – the area Resort. The resort and monuments, that
of Northern Thailand, Myanmar, casino were built in suggests the town
and Laos in which opium was Myanmar, as may be much older.
produced (see p237). Nowadays, gambling is illegal Lanna carving, In 1558, Chiang Saen
though, the term refers to a in Thailand. National Museum was captured by the
much smaller area and is Burmese. It was liberated
associated with Sop E House of Opium by King Rama I in 1804, who
Ruak village. 212 House of Opium, SE of Sop burned it to the ground to
Sop Ruak, eager to take Ruak village center. Tel 0-5378-4060. prevent its recapture. The
advantage of its location, is Open 7am–7pm daily. & present town was established
growing rapidly as a tourist ∑ houseofopium.com in the early 1880s. Today,
Chiang Saen is a quiet and
peaceful settlement boasting
an impressive number of
monuments that survived
the razing. The Fine Arts
Department in Bangkok lists
66 ruins inside the walled town
and 75 beyond.
The largest temple in Chiang
Saen is Wat Phra That Chedi
Luang. Its 190-ft (58-m)
octagonal chedi, built
between the 12th and the
14th centuries, is a classic
Chiang Saen (more commonly
Mural in the House of Opium showing tools used to harvest poppies known as Lanna) structure.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 FA R N O R T H  253

Beside the temple is a small

market selling textiles and
souvenirs made by the Thai
Lue, an ethnic minority from
China who came to the
area in the 18th century. Also
nearby is the Chiang Saen
National Museum, with a
collection of stone carvings
from the Lanna period,
Buddha images, and artifacts
relating to hill-tribe culture
(see pp210–11).
The town’s most attractive
temple is Wat Pa Sak (“teak
forest temple”), located
outside the old walls to the
west. The monument
consists of seven separate
ruined structures set among
teak trees, which give the
wat its name. The chedi, built
in 1295, is the oldest in town.
It is carved with flowers and
mythological beasts.
On a hill to the northwest of
Chiang Saen is Wat Phra That
Chom Kitti, which may date
from 10th century. The temple
has little of architectural interest,
it gives fine views of the town
and the Mekong.
Just south of Chiang Saen is
the hilltop Wat Phra That Pha
Ngao. This temple, with a
white pagoda, offers stunning
views of the river and the
Golden Triangle region.
Typical Thai Lue fabrics for sale in Chiang Khong
9 Chiang Khong

Chiang Rai province. * 52,000. @
4 n TAT, Chiang Rai (0-5374-4674).
( daily.
On the banks of the Mekong
River, Chiang Khong town is all
that remains of the much larger
territory of Chiang Khong, most
of which was lost to the French
in 1893, when they claimed it as
part of French Indochina (the
rest of this land now forms part
of Laos). A growing border
town, Chiang Khong is largely
dominated by events in Laos.
The town was one of the key
points of arrival for refugees
after the Communist victory in
Laos in 1975 (see p299). There is
a large Thai Lue community
here too, and shops sell their
distinctive, multicolored textiles.
Chiang Khong’s main temple is
the 13th-century Wat Luang, in
the town center. On a hillside
just northwest of town is a ceme-
tery where some 200 Chinese
KMT soldiers, killed in battles
against Communists in the area
since the 1960s, are buried.
Environs
Visitors can take a ferry to Huay
Xai, just inside the Lao border.
Visas can be obtained on
arrival at Huay Xai immigration
at a cost of $35. You will need
two passport-size photos. An
important trading center, Huay
Xai boasts the 19th-century
Wat Chan Khao Manirat.

Thailand’s Teak Industry

The use of teak (Tectona grandis) in Thailand dates back many centuries.
Its favorable properties, including strength and resistance to pests and
disease, made it a natural choice for use in buildings and furniture, while
its fine grain traditionally lent itself to intricate carving. However, reckless
overlogging has led to
disastrous deforestation,
and, as a result, most
commercial teak
logging and export Transporting teak logs on the Chao
was banned in 1989.
Phraya River
Pockets of teak may
still be seen in its natural habitat – low-lying deciduous
forests of up to 1,950 ft (600 m) in elevation, with rich,
moist soil (such forest is characteristic of Northern
Thailand) – or in large new plantations. The trees are
easily recognizable by their huge size – they can grow
up to 131 ft (40 m) when mature – and by their large,
floppy leaves, which fall off during the dry period of
November to May. Thailand’s historic use of teak is
evident in rural parts of the country, as in the old wooden
houses of provincial towns, including Phrae (see pp262–3)
Lowland teak forest in Northern Thailand and Ngao (see p256), both located in the North.
254  NORTHERN THAILAND

0 Chiang Rai  Wat Phra Sing


 Singhakhlai Rd. Open daily.
This ancient town was founded in 1262 by King Mengrai. Built in the late 14th century,
He decided that the site, in a basin between mountains, would Wat Phra Sing is a typical
be ideal for the new capital of the Lanna Kingdom (see pp66–7). Northern wooden structure,
with low, curved roofs. The main
However, the capital was transferred to Chiang Mai only 34 wihan houses a replica of the
years later, and Chiang Rai declined in importance. Today it Phra Sing Buddha in Chiang
is known as the “gateway to the Golden Triangle.” While the Mai’s Wat Phra Sing (see p230).
modern town may lack the charm and architectural interest Also of interest are the carved
of Chiang Mai, it has a number of sights worthy of attention. medallions below the windows
of the bot, which depict birds
and animals. Around the Bodhi
Exploring Chiang Rai  Wat Phra Kaeo tree are images of the Buddha.
Evidence of the town’s historic 
importance can be seen in Trirat Rd. Open daily.
monuments such as Wat Phra This is the city’s most revered
Kaeo. However, modern temple. According to legend,
development is becoming lightning struck and cracked
increasingly prominent. the chedi in 1354, revealing a
The construction of hotels for plaster cast statue encasing the
tourists, who use Chiang Rai Emerald Buddha (actually made
as a trekking base, and of of jadeite). Today Thailand’s
second homes for the wealthy most holy Buddha image is
people of Bangkok, has made housed in Bangkok (see p87).
the town one of the fastest A replica, presented in 1991, is
growing in Thailand. Economic now kept here. The wat dates
activity in the area is expected from the 13th century and is
to grow even further as trade also notable for its fine bot,
increases with China, just decorated with elaborate
120 miles (200 km) to the woodcarving, and the Phra
north. Development focuses Chao Lang Thong, one of the Staircase leading up to a seated Buddha
mainly on the area between largest surviving bronze statues image at Wat Mungmuang
the old market off Suk Sathit from the early Lanna period
Road and Phahon Yothin (see pp66–7).  Wat Mungmuang
Road, with the newest hotels 
on the outskirts of town and  Wat Chet Yot Uttarakit Rd. Open daily.
by the airport. Resorts have  A rotund Buddha image with
been built on many of the Chet Yot Rd. Open daily. one hand raised in the vitarkha
islands in the Kok River. This small temple, named for mudra position (see p177)
A popular night bazaar is its unusual, seven-spired chedi, dominates this wat. The murals
held in the center of town. is similar in appearance to its in the main wihan, depicting
Visitors can buy a range of namesake in Chiang Mai local mountain scenery and
crafts, enjoy a meal, and watch (see p231). The front scenes of flooding and
cultural performances. The veranda of the main wihan pollution, reflect the concern
nearby fresh fruit market is has a mural depicting of Thais at the rapid growth of
also open at night. astrological scenes. their cities, an issue of particular
relevance in Chiang Rai.

 Wat Phra That Doi Thong


At-am Nuai Rd, Doi Chom Thong Hill.
Open daily.
This temple, built in the 1940s, is
located on a hill top outside the
town. It is on this spot that King
Mengrai is said to have decided
upon the location of his new
capital. In the wihan is Chiang
Rai’s original lak muang, or “city
pillar,” traditionally erected in
Thailand to mark the founding
Wihan of Wat Phra Sing, housing a replica of Chiang Mai’s Phra Sing Buddha of a new city.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 FA R N O R T H  255

E Hill Tribe Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Overbrook Hospital, an example of Chiang
Rai’s colonial architecture
Overbrook Hospital

Singhakhlai Rd. Tel 0-5371-1366.
This working hospital is typical
of the colonial architecture
created by Westerners in the
19th and 20th centuries,
when the city was a base for
missionaries and traders.
Such buildings are slowly
being swamped in Chiang Rai
as modern development
proceeds apace. This trend is
likely to continue as ever more
trekkers and package tourists,
demanding ever more
comprehensive facilities, are
attracted to the wild beauty
of the mountainous Golden
Triangle region (see pp250–52).
Chiang Rai Town Center
1 Wat Phra That Doi Thong
2 Wat Phra Kaeo
3 Overbrook Hospital
4 Wat Phra Sing
KR
Wat Phra That
Doi Thong

620–625 Thanalai Rd. Tel 0-5374-0088. Practical Information
Open 8:30am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am– Tel 0-5371-7779. ∑ chiangrai
6pm Sat & Sun. & ∑ pdacr.org province.org Chiang Rai province.
This museum and crafts center * 140,000. n TAT, Singkhlai Rd,
was established in 1990 by the Chiang Rai 0-5371-7433; b on
non-profit Population and the floor below TAT office, (
Community Development daily. _ Pho Khun Mengrai (Jan);
Association (PDA), also known Songkran and Boat Racing Festival
(Apr); Lychee and Nang Lae
for raising awareness of
Pineapple Fair (May); Chiang Rai
Thailand’s AIDS problem (see
Flower Festival (Dec/Jan). (
p120). In addition to informing
tourists of the plight of hill Transport
tribes (see pp210–11), volunteers ~ 5 miles (8 km) N of Chiang Rai.
at the center work with the @ off Prasopsuk Rd; 4 miles (6 km)
tribespeople, educating them S of Chiang Rai. 4 Kok River pier.
on how to cope with threats
to their traditional lifestyle from market and in shops around the
a rapidly modernizing society. center of town.
The center displays and sells
hill-tribe crafts (see pp212–13). Environs
These can also be bought at the Chiang Rai is growing as a base
for visiting the rest of the Far
North. Vehicle rental, guided
treks, and excursions can be
arranged through tour
companies and guesthouses.
Boat trips on the Kok River
include excursions to the village
of Tha Ton (see p246). Ruamit,
some 12 miles (20 km) west of
Chiang Rai was originally
Hill Tribe Museum, surrounded by lush inhabited solely by the Karen
greenery, Chiang Rai tribe, though many different
hill tribes now live here. Guided
treks can be taken from here to
other villages.
5 Wat Mungmuang Eight miles (13 km) south of
6 Wat Chet Yot Chiang Rai is the photogenic Wat
7 Hill Tribe Museum Rang Khun. Known as the “White
Temple,” this unfinished wat was
designed in 1997 by artist-turned-
architect Chalermchai Kositpipat.
AI
SO
RA
SI
T Ko
k

Overbrook
Hospital SI Airport
NG 5 miles (8 km)
R AT HA
D ET D
AMR Wat Phra KH MAE SAI,
ONG LA GOLDEN TRIANGLE
Sing I
Wat Phra
NGAM

Kaeo IT Statue of
K
RA
U T TA King Mengrai
R AT TA N A K

WISET

Wat Mungmuang
Hill Tribe
ALAI Museum
THAN
WIAN
T R A I R AT
MUANG

HET

TH A
YO
G

HA
ASIAN

TC BANPHA PR AKAN
RA
Clock PHAHON
YOTHIN
Tower
Night Bazaar
HIN
CH ET
IN
SANAMB

N YOT

Bus Station 1
YOT

PRASO
0 meters 250 PS
UK
PHAHO

0 yards 250

Wat Chet CHIANG MAI,

Yot PHAYAO
For keys to symbols see back flap
256  NORTHERN THAILAND
q Mae Saruai

Chiang Rai province. * 84,000. @
Chiang Rai, then songthaew. n TAT,
Chiang Rai (0-5371-7433). ( daily.
Situated on a plain between
mountains and jagged limestone
outcrops, this small market town
is a popular meeting place for
hill tribes, particularly Akha
(see pp210–11). Mae Saruai is
modernizing rapidly, and new
agriculture, including flower
production, is replacing
traditional crops such as rice.
Environs
Cars can be rented in Chiang
Rai to visit the Akha hill-tribe
villages. The remote ones are
accessible on motorcycles or by
trekking. Ban Saen Chareon,
6 miles (10 km) west of Mae
Saruai, was the subject of a
major study of the Akha.
w Wiang Pa Pao

Chiang Rai province. * 61,000.
£ @ Chiang Mai, then songthaew;
or @ Chiang Rai, then songthaew.
n TAT, Chiang Rai (0-5374-4674).
( daily.
This important market town
is picturesquely located in a
long, thin valley surrounded
by mountains. The town is
composed mainly of two-
story teak buildings, typical
of Northern Thailand, and has
quiet back streets shaded by
teak trees. Many hill-tribe
villagers who live in the area,
Chedi and wihan of Wat Si Suthawat, Wiang
Pa Pao’s main temple
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
The main street in Mae Saruai, with its two-story buildings
especially Lisu and Akha, come
to trade at its market. Wiang Pa
Pao’s main tourist attraction is
Wat Si Suthawat, to the east of
the main road through town.
This spacious old temple, with
distinctive, curled nagas flanking
the sweeping staircase that
leads up to the main wihan,
is surrounded by teak trees.
e Phayao

Phayao province. * 21,000. @
n TAT, Chiang Rai (0-5374-4674).
( daily.
This quiet provincial capital,
spectacularly sited beside a
large lake, was possibly first
settled in the Bronze Age. Later
abandoned, it was resettled in
the 12th century, when it
became an independent city
state. Today, Phayao is divided
into two parts. The older
district is confined to the
promontory jutting into
the lake. With its narrow
streets and teak houses,
it is more pleasant than
the newer part.
Wat Si Komkam, situated
just north of town by the
lake, dates from the Angel at Wat Dok anteater), wild pigs,
12th century. Its modern
wihan houses a
16th-century, 52-ft (16-m)
Buddha image, which is thought notable for its tall teak trees.
to be the largest in the whole of
Northern Thailand. The wihan is
surrounded by 38 heads of the
Buddha in the Phayao style –
distinguished by their rounded
heads and pointed noses –
dating from the 14th century.
r Ngao

Lampang province. * 53,000. @
from Lampang or Chiang Rai. n TAT,
Lampang (0-5422-1813). ( daily.
Like many towns in Northern
Thailand, Ngao’s historical
association with the teak
trade is evident in its buildings.
The suspension bridge over the
Yom River offers wonderful
views of the town, with its teak
houses on stilts backing onto
the fertile river valley.
Ngao’s principal temple is
Wat Dok Ban, on the east side
of town. It is distinctive for its
wall surrounded by about 100
kneeling angel figures of
different colors.
Environs
Mae Yom National Park,
northeast of Ngao, is
centered on the Yom River,
one of Northern Thailand’s
main waterways. More
than 50 species of birds
have been observed in
the park, as well as
many mammals,
including the serow
(a type of antelope),
pangolin (scaly
Ban, Ngao and barking deer.
Within the park is the
Dong Sak Ngan Forest,
The forest can be reached only
on foot.
O Mae Yom National Park
11 miles (18 km) NE of Ngao.
Tel 0-5462-6770. n Forestry Dept
(0-2579-0529). Open daily. &
 FA R N O R T H  257

Elephants in Thailand
As well as playing a very important practical role in Thai history, elephants have
traditionally been of great spiritual significance. They were first mentioned centuries
ago in Hindu and Buddhist texts and since then have enjoyed a higher status in Thailand
than any other animal. However, although wild elephants have been protected by law
since 1921, deforestation and, to a lesser extent, poaching have reduced their numbers
to just a few thousand. The introduction of machines for logging, followed by a ban on
most commercial logging in 1989, has led to a sharp fall in the number of captive
elephants. Tourists may still come across these being ridden by mahouts, and at elephant
welfare camps, though some “shows” have been criticised by animal welfare groups.

Working Elephants
Although most logging is
officially banned in Thailand,
elephants are still used
for transporting logs in
some areas. They are often
looked after by one handler
for all their life, and cause
less damage than
modern machinery.

Elephants were used in war, as depicted in this old manuscript

Able to run up to
12 miles (20 km)
an hour, elephants
were frequently
used by hunters.

This 19th-century
training manual
shows how to tame
wild elephants.
Sacred Elephants
The spiritual significance of elephants
derives from Ganesh, the Hindu god of
knowledge and the remover and creator
of obstacles, who is a young boy with an
elephant’s head. The significance of white
elephants (see p110), the most revered of
all, has its roots in Buddhism. Only the
king may own them.

Mural of elephants in one of the Buddhist heavens,

Wat Suthat, Bangkok (see pp94–5).

Royal white elephants, said to represent the

monarch’s power, are the most sacred elephants.
258  NORTHERN THAILAND
t Nong Bua

Nan province. * 5,100. @ Nan, then
songthaew. n TAT, Chiang Rai
(0-5374-4674). ( daily.
This picturesque town, situated
on a flat, fertile plain beside the
Nan River, is characterized by
traditional teak houses on stilts
and neat vegetable gardens.
It is one of a number of towns
in Nan province inhabited by
the Thai Lue, an ethnic minority
related to the Tai people of
Southern China, who began
to settle in the region in 1836.
Wat Nong Bua, which was
built in 1862, has features
typical of a Thai Lue temple,
including a two-tiered roof
and a carved wooden portico.
Its murals are thought to be the n
work of the same artists who
painted those at Wat Phumin
(see pp260–61). Though the
murals at Wat Nong Bua are
more faded than Wat Phumin’s,
their depictions of 19th-century
life are just as fascinating. As at
Wat Phumin, scenes from the
jataka tales (see p34) are also
featured here.
To the west of town is a
textile factory, where
traditional Thai Lue fabrics
are made using hand-
operated looms. The
distinctive, multicolored
fabrics are for sale in the
adjacent store.
Nong Bua is the site
of a two-day festival
held every three years
in December (2014,
2017, and so on), during which
the villagers pay homage to
their ancestors.
Thai Lue farmers working in the rice fields around Nong Bua
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
A 19th-century mural depicting a hunting party, Wat Nong Bua
y Doi Phu Kha The visitors’ center provides
National Park information on forest walks and
opportunities for bird-watching.
 The other points of interest in
the park are the tribal villages,
Visitors’ Center off Hwy 1080, 42 miles
particularly Mien and Hmong
(85 km) NE of Nan. Tel 0-5473-1623.
(see pp210–11), and lowland
TAT, Chiang Rai (0-5374-4674);
Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760 or
ethnic minorities such as the
∑ dnp. go.th). @ Nan, then Htin and Thai Lue.
songthaew. There are few good roads or
tourist facilities in the park.
Ranged around the 6,550-ft The more adventurous will be
(2,000-m) peak of Doi rewarded by an area relatively
Phu Kha, this is one of free of development.
the youngest national
parks in Thailand.
For years, the area u Nan
was widely 
considered a
hotbed of Communist Nan province. * 60,000. ~ @
infiltration. Some of the hill- n TAT, Chiang Rai (0-5374-4674).
tribe villagers here were ( daily. _ Nan Provincial Fair
suspected of sympathizing (Oct/Nov), Nan Boat Racing (late Oct
with the Communists and or early Dec); Golden Orange Festival
were kept isolated (Dec/Jan).
Short-tailed from visitors. Tourism
magpie, Doi Phu Kha in the park is therefore Nan developed as an isolated
National Park still in its infancy. Doi kingdom in the 13th and
Phu Kha has two main 14th centuries. It fell under the
attractions, the most obvious influence of the Sukothai and
being its beautiful scenery, such Lanna kingdoms (see pp62–3),
as caves and waterfalls. then surrendered to Burmese
control in 1558. In 1788 the
town became a vassal state of
Bangkok, though it kept its
autonomy and independent
rulers until it officially became
part of Thailand in 1931. Today,
Nan is a prosperous town on
the Nan River.
Wat Phumin (see pp260–61),
in the south of town, is without
doubt the most important sight
in Nan. Just north of it (on
Highway 101) is the Nan
National Museum, which is
housed in an impressive former

royal palace dating from 1903.
The ground floor is dedicated
to the ethnic groups of Nan
province, including the Hmong
and Mien hill tribes. The second
floor has a comprehensive
selection of artifacts relating
to the history of the region,
including weapons. Notable
items include a “black” elephant
tusk weighing 40 lb (18 kg),
supported by a sculpted khut
(mythological eagle). Thought
to date from the 17th century,
the tusk is actually dark brown.
The collection of Buddhas
includes some rare Lanna and
Lao images. Also exhibited are
skyrockets made by local
farmers for the Bun Bang Fai
(Rocket Festival) (see p51) held
each May in Northeast and
parts of Northern Thailand.
Façade of the bot of the 14th-century Wat
Suan Tan in Nan
Traditional Boat Races in Nan
Each year, at the end of October, boat
races take place on the river at Nan.
The races are the highlight of the two-
week Nan Provincial Fair, which attracts
visitors from all over Thailand. The tradition
of the boat races is thought to have begun
toward the end of the 19th century and
marks the start of the Krathin season
(see p54), when the city’s menfolk present
new robes to the local monks. The boats,
some 98 ft (30 m) in length, can hold up
to 50 rowers. Each one is carved from a
single log and decorated to look like a
dragon-serpent or naga (see p232).
The sides are brightly painted with
traditional motifs.
Unusually for Thai museums,
many of the exhibits are labeled Despite its many attractions,
in English. Nearby is Wat Chang
Kham Wora Wihan, with a
magnificent
14th-century chedi
resting on sculpted
elephant heads. The bot
and the wihan are
guarded by singhas
(mythological lions).
Among Nan’s other
temples is Wat Suan Tan,
in the northwest of town,
with a 130-ft (40-m) chedi,
crowned by a white prang –
a rounded, Khmer-style tower “Black” elephant tusk fastest-growing
that is very rarely seen in
Northern Thailand. Housed in
the wihan is a bronze Buddha
image, Phra Chao Thong Thip.
The image was made to the
order of the king of Chiang Mai
in 1449 after he conquered Nan.
According to legend, the
monarch gave the city’s crafts-
men just one week to make it.
Just southeast of Nan is the
revered Wat Phra That Chae
Haeng. Dating from 1355,
the temple is set in a square
compound on a hill top
overlooking the Nan valley.
Its gilded Lanna chedi is just
over 180 ft (55 m) high. This,
and the huge nagas (serpents)
flanking the staircase, can be
seen from several miles around. The pillars have the same
The multilayered roof of the
wihan is Lao in style.
E Nan National Museum
Hwy 101. Open 9am–4pm Wed–
Sun. &
Boats competing during annual races on the Nan River
FA R N O R T H  259
Environs
the mountainous province of
Nan was once one of the most
remote and
inaccessible
areas in
Thailand.
Better
roads have
now greatly
improved
connections
to the province,
making it one
of the country’s
in Nan National tourist
Museum destinations.
To the north of
Nan is Tham Pha Tup Forest
Reserve, a limestone cave
complex set in a forested
area. There are some 17 caves
here, which are impressive
for their stalactites and
stalagmites. About half of
them can be reached by
marked trails.
Another natural feature of
the region is Sao Din, literally
“earth pillars,” which are located
off Highway 1026, about 19 miles
(30 km) to the south of Nan.
These sculpted clay columns,
created by erosion, stick out
of depressions in the ground.
eerie appearance as those
at Phea Muang Phi in
Phrae province (see p263)
and have been used as a
backdrop for many
Thai films.
260  NORTHERN THAILAND

Wat Phumin

One of the most beautiful temples in northern Thailand, Wat
Phumin was founded in 1596 by the ruler of Nan. The wat was
renovated in the mid-19th century and again in 1991 and is
notable for its cross-shaped design, elaborate coffered ceiling,
and carved doors and pillars. The highlight, however, is
undoubtedly its murals. These were originally thought to have
been painted by Thai Lue (see p258) artists during the 19th-century
renovation. But the apparent depiction of French troops,
unknown in the area before the French annexation of part of Rich Official
Nan province in 1893, suggests a date in the mid-1890s. This lavishly dressed man,
Three main themes can be picked out from the murals: the life smoking a pipe, may depict
of the Buddha, the jataka (see p34) tale of his incarnation as the ruler of Nan who
commissioned the murals.
Khatta Kumara, and scenes depicting everyday life in Nan.

. Central Buddha Images

Four identical gilded Sukhothai
images (see pp164–5) sit
back-to-back facing the
cardinal points.

Decorative Pillars
These red, black, and gold pillars
are all carved with the same floral
pattern. The bases of some pillars
feature elephant motifs while
others depict devas (Hindu gods).

KEY
Descending Serpents
This mural shows poisonous snakes 1 Nagas (serpents) flank the
sent by angry gods to punish an steps at the front and back of
unruly king in the story of the building.
Khatta Kumara.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 FA R N O R T H  261

Courting Couple
ViSiTorS’ ChECkliST
This mural gives an insight into
clothing worn in 19th-century Nan.
Practical Information
The tattooed man with a Thai Lue
Phumin village, south bank of
hairstyle may be one of the artists.
Nan River, Phakong Rd, center
of Nan town. open 8:30am–
4:30pm daily.

. Story of the Buddha Mural

The mural on the northern wall above the main door is
particularly outstanding. Located at the very top of the image
is the Buddha, and on a lower plane are his disciples. In the
bottom half, Khatta Kumara and his friends are depicted on
their way to a city with a palace, which Khatta later rebuilds
after its destruction by snakes and birds.

Boy, Mother, and Elephant’s

Main entrance Footprint
In this scene, Khatta Kumara
is with his mother. She bore him
after drinking the god Indra’s
urine from an elephant’s
footprint. Indra had
descended to earth in the
form of an elephant.

The Arrival of Europeans in Nan

This scene shows characters wearing European clothes.
The figures in berets may be French, and the mural
could be a direct reference to the takeover of
part of Nan province by the French in 1893.
262  NORTHERN THAILAND

i Street-by-Street: Phrae

With its distinctive charm and identity, Phrae is appealing yet
surprisingly seldom visited. The town was built beside the
Yom River in the 12th century and remained an independent
city state until it came under Ayutthayan control. In the
18th century, the town was taken by Myanmar (Burma) and
later became a base for Myanmar and Lao teak loggers.
Myanmar influence is obvious in Phrae’s temples, which
also have Lanna features. The town prospers on agricultural
Buddhist shrine inside the museum
produce from the surrounding fertile valley, as shown by
at Wat Luang
the growing commercial district outside the walled town.
Remains of the old city walls and moat can be seen in the Wat Phra Non,
To Wat Phra
northeast of town. a 17th-century
Non
Lao temple,
houses a reclining
. Wat Luang Buddha image.
Phrae’s oldest temple
(12th century) is entered
through a section of old city
wall. The octagonal Lanna
chedi is notable for its
elephant caryatids. Swords,
jewelry, and photographs are
displayed in the museum.
E
1 LU
M
A
H
K

To Ban
E 2
Prathup Chai KH LU
AM
Wat Phra Ruang LU
AM

Several architectural styles E

are blended at this temple.
KH

The cruciform bot is more

characteristic of temples in
nearby Nan. The Lao wihan
has delicately carved
doors, shown here.
The chedi is Lanna.
G
N
A K
U H
M U
K M
U D
L E
R
M

P
H
R
A
T

R
RU

U
A
Wat Phra Bat N
RI

G
The Lao bot of Wat Phra
NA

Bat dates from the 18th century,

while the wihan, housing a revered
Buddha image, is modern. Part of a
Buddhist university, the temple is
often bustling with monks.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 FA R N O R T H  263

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Environs

Practical Information
Phrae province. * 85,000.
n TAT, Chiang Rai (0-5371-7433).
( daily. _ Phra That Chaw Hae
(Mar); Songkran (Apr).
Transport
~ 1 mile (2 km) SE of Phrae.
@ off Yantarakitkosok Rd.
Wat Si Chum
The plain interiors of the bot
and wihan contrast with the
ornate Buddha images inside.
Unfortunately, the chedi is in a
state of ruin.
R
Wat Chom Sawan, in the
northeast of Phrae, is an early
20th-century Shan temple with
a distinctive, copper-crowned
Myanmar chedi.
To the west of Phrae is Ban
Prathup Chai, one of Thailand’s
largest teak houses, with its
ornate pillars. The structure was
assembled in the mid-1980s;
even though teak logging was
not banned then (see p253),
spare logs from nine other
houses were used to build it.
To the southeast is Wat Phra
That Chaw Hae, thought to date
from the 12th–13th centuries.
Staircases flanked by nagas and
stone lions lead through a teak
forest up to the hilltop wat.
The temple is named after the
satinlike cloth (chaw hae) that
worshipers wrap around the
110-ft (33-m) gilded chedi. Inside
is the revered Phra Chao Than

Chai, believed to grant wishes.

O
B

Phea Muang Phi is a popular

M
U

excursion from Phrae. This surreal

A
N

landscape (muang phi means

G

“ghost city”) consists of pillars of

soil and rock that rise from the
ground like mushrooms. Like Sao
Din in Nan province (see p259),
they are the result of the erosion
of clay beneath a hard crust.

E Ban Prathup Chai

. Teak Houses
These teak houses
are typical of Phrae. Their
roofs are decorated with
kalae, a feature of Northern
G
1,100 yards (1,000 m) W of Phrae.
Open daily. &
 Wat Phra That Chaw Hae
5 miles (8 km) SE of Phrae, Phrae
province. @ Phrae, then songthaew.
Open daily. &
} Phae Muang Phi

Thai houses (see p40).

N

Off Hwy 101, 11 miles (18 km) NE of

A

Phrae, Phrae province. @ Phrae, then

U

0 meters
M

100
songthaew.
EN

0 yards 100
O
R

o Sirikit Reservoir
A
H
C


28 miles (45 km) SE of Phrae, Uttaradit
province. @ Nan or Uttaradit, then
To Wat Chom songthaew.
Sawan and old
city walls Named after Queen Sirikit and
set amid splendid scenery, this
reservoir and dam were created
in the mid-1970s on the Nan
Key River, a tributary of the Chao
Public Park
Suggested route This park is ideal for relaxing after Phraya. Built to control flooding,
visiting Phrae’s sights. Unusually for the dam also provides electricity
Thai towns, it is located in the center. and water to farmers in the area.
NORTHEAST
THAILAND

Introducing
Northeast Thailand 266–271
Khorat Plateau 272–285
Mekong River Valley 286–307
266  northeast thailand

Introducing Northeast Thailand

the Khorat Plateau, which takes up most of the northeast, is mostly barren
scrubland; its main focus is the city of Khorat (nakhon ratchasima). to the
north and east of this region and separating it from neighboring laos is
the Mekong river Valley. along the thai side of the river lie small villages, Nong Khai
some with small docks and beaches. Known locally as isan, the northeast
has an extremely rich history. one of the first areas in the world
where rice was cultivated, silk woven, and bronze produced,
it fell under Khmer rule in the 9th–13th centuries. isan’s Sangkhom
proximity to laos and Cambodia and its largely infertile
land mean that it is seen by many thais as a poor Nong
relation. Most of its people are ethnically lao and Chiang Khan Khai

are known for their friendly openness.

Loei
Udon Thani
Phu Rua

Nong
Nong Hin Bualamphu

Si Buan
Ruang

Lom Sak

Khon San Khon

Kaen

Phetchabun
Phu Kradung National Park (see pp290–91), KHORAT PLATEAU
(see pp272–285)
with a steep-sided plateau at its center, is
home to fabulous animal and plant life.
Na Chan
Ban Phai

Chaiyaphum

Bua Yai

Nong Bua
Khok

Dan Khun
Thot

Khorat

Prasat Hin Phimai (see pp280–81), dating Pak Thong Chai

from the 11th–12th centuries, is one of the
most extensively restored Khmer temple
complexes in Thailand.

Ta Phraya

Prasat Hin Khao Phnom Rung

(see pp284–5), covering a huge
area, is one of Thailand’s finest
examples of Khmer architecture.

Prasat Hin Phimai, Khorat

 introducing northeast thailand  267

Nong Khai (see pp296–7) is a

developed commercial town
that has retained a peaceful
riverside atmosphere.

Bung Kan
Ban Mai

Phon
Charoen

MEKONG RIVER VALLEY

(see pp286–307)
Nakhon Phanom

Ban Wang Ta
Chiang Mua
Sakhon
Nakhon

That Phanom

Som Det
Mukdahan

Yang
Ta Lat

Loeng
Nok Tha
Wat Phra That Phanom
Khemmarat (see p301) was, according to
Roi Et Selaphum legend, built shortly after
the death of the Buddha.
Amnat Charoen
It is the Northeast’s most
Yasothon sacred shrine.

Meuang Chamrap
Suwannaphum

Ubon
Satuk Ratchathani

Na Phiman
Si Sa Ket
Buri Ram Sikhoraphum

Surin
Kantharalak
Sangkha
Prasat

0 kilometers
Prasat Khao Phra Wihan (see p306)
50
enjoys a stunning location on a
0 miles 25 mountain spur on the border
between Thailand and Cambodia.
268  NORTHEAST THAILAND

The Lost Khmer Temples

When Europeans first saw mysterious ruins in the forests
far east of Ayutthaya, they thought they had found an
ancient Chinese, or even Greek, civilization. It was not
until the 19th century that the history of the Khmers, who Phimai
Phnom Rung
Lop Buri
ruled an area covering much of modern Cambodia and Banteay Chhmar Khao Phra Wihan

Northeast Thailand from the 9th to 14th centuries, began Angkor Prea Khan

to be uncovered. The Khmers are now acknowledged to

have been among the world’s greatest architects. Many
sites can be visited in Thailand today; in Cambodia,
The Khmer Empire
restoration of Angkor, the old capital, is ongoing.
Major Khmer sites

At the center of Angkor Thom

stands the Bayon, with its distinctive,
colossal heads.

Bas-reliefs of battles adorning the walls of many

Khmer sites not only display the creative and
technical abilities of the Khmer craftsmen, but
have also helped scholars to write Khmer history.
The Khmers’ main adversaries were the Thais:
in 1444 Ayutthaya finally took Angkor, and the
Khmer Empire was vanquished.

Romance of the Great Temples

Restoration of the most important of Thailand’s
300-odd Khmer monuments was begun in 1925.
The Thai Fine Arts Department has overseen work
at temple complexes such as Phimai (see pp280–
81) in the late 20th century.
Khmer temple complexes were built to symbolize
kingship and the universe and are awesome
in their scale and beauty. The Thais borrowed
elements of Khmer temple design (see p38),
and a scale model, made in 1922, of Angkor Wat,
the largest complex, stands at Bangkok’s Wat Phra
Kaeo (see pp84–7). European views of romantic
ruins abound, as exemplified by engravings
such as this, made in 1866–8. A reconstruction
of Angkor Wat was also the centerpiece of the
1931 Colonial Exposition in Paris.
 INTRODUCING NORTHEAST THAILAND  269

The Rediscovery of Angkor

In about 1550 a Cambodian king is said to have come
upon the ruins of Angkor while hunting for elephants.
He cleared part of the site where his ancestors
had once held court. Before long, news filtered
to Europe from Portuguese and Spanish
missionaries of a vast hidden city. But few
ventured into the jungle, and the artistic feats of
the Khmers were to remain largely unknown for
another 300 years. Interest in the ruins increased
when France colonized Indochina. Henri Mouhot
A shivalinga was (1826–61) earned the dubious posthumous status
the main object of of “discoverer” of Angkor on publication of his
worship at the center engravings and drawings of the site that he made
of many Khmer in 1860. From his work France decided to finance
temples. It is a proper exploration. Louis Delaporte, George
phallus representing Cœdès, Jean Boisselier, and Henri Parmentier
the creative force of were among others who spent much of their The French scholar
the Hindu god Shiva. lives piecing together Khmer history. Parmentier in 1923

Scenes from the Ramayana, an ancient

Indian epic, are found at many Khmer
temples, and probably directly inspired the
Thai version, the Ramakien (see pp44–5).

The 19th-century artists were

particularly inspired by imagery
of the jungle encroaching upon
the ruins.

The scale of the

humans shown
in the engraving
is fairly accurate.
The larger statues
in the foreground
are imaginary.

Marc Riboud, a
photographer for the
renowned Magnum
agency, visited Angkor
in the 1960s and The gently smiling faces
1980s. He took some of the Buddha at the Bayon
of the most evocative of Angkor Thom have
and widely published found their way onto
pictures of Angkor posters, book covers,
before and after the and, here, the score
war in Cambodia. of a 1921 foxtrot.
270  northeast thailand

Silk Production
Finds at the prehistoric site of Ban Chiang (see pp58–9)
indicate that silk production in northeast thailand
may predate even that of China, where sericulture
probably originated in about 2700 BC. in thailand,
silk production was beginning to die out until an
american, Jim thompson (see pp124–5), revived it
in the 1940s. today, all manner of silk products are
available, with silk shirts and sarongs popular with
visitors. the silk industry is centered mostly in the
northeast, due to the suitability of soil in these areas
for growing mulberry bushes, the main diet of the
silkworm. silk production in these areas is still based
on traditional methods and comprises the stages
2 In three to four weeks the eggs
outlined here.
grow into silkworms. These are
placed on large, woven bamboo
trays and, protected from mice,
ants, flies, and bright light,
feed on mulberry leaves. In the
larval stage, while they are still
1 Female silkworm growing, each silkworm sheds
moths spend their short its skin four times and increases
Silkworm moth life of about four days its weight 10,000-fold.
(Bombyx mori) mating and laying eggs.

SILKWORMS

Reeling Dyeing

7 The raw silk is soaked in

soapy water to remove the
sericin, a gumlike coating,
leaving it softer and lighter.

5 The individual silk threads are lifted out of the

pot using a special forked bamboo pole. They are
twisted together to form a single, larger thread,
which is then reeled onto a spool. 8 The yarn is then dyed. The strength
of the dye depends on the number
6 Silk skeins are inspected of times the yarn is dipped in the
and graded. The outer solution. Tie-dyed yarn (ikat) is
layer of cocoon gives the achieved by wrapping segments of
coarsest yarn and is used for yarn with dye-resistant strings,
furnishings. The best silk, according to the design required. The
from the middle and inner thread is then dried and the strings
layers, is used for weaving. removed, revealing the pattern.
 introducing northeast thailand  271

3 At the end of the 30-day growth cycle, the fully

developed silkworms are ready to spin a cocoon.
They are moved to a large, circular, bamboo tray
with a frame that leaves them just enough space to
attach their cocoons. Silkworms build their cocoons
from a single white or yellow fiber secreted from
the mouth at a rate of 4.5 in (12 cm) per minute.

4 Cocoons have to be reeled within

ten days or the moths will begin
to hatch and damage the silk. The
Cocoons, which cocoons are placed in a pot of water
are spun in just below boiling point. This kills
about 36 hours them and releases the silk threads.

COCOONS

Plying Weaving

9 Up to six threads can be

plyed together to form a
single thread, the weft.

10 The silk is woven on upright looms

with foot treadles. The coarse weft is
woven into fine, even warps, which
even in traditional workshops are often
prefabricated and imported from Japan,
Korea, and Europe – the production of
the warp is a time consuming business
by any method. The combination of fine
and coarse threads gives the fabric its
unique luster.

Tools for Silk Weaving

During the silk-weaving process, the fibers
must be kept clean and free from obstructions
that could tangle and damage them. Each
implement has a unique and vital
function: delicate brushes with
ornamental wooden handles
help to keep the silk free from
particles of dust. Carved wooden
pulleys, which are attached to
traditional looms, insure that the Traditional 11 The distinctive, brightly colored
Decorative silk fibers run smoothly while they pulley silk is then made into umbrellas,
brushes are being woven. scarves, ties, shirts, and sarongs,
and sold around Thailand (see p441).

KHORAT PLATEAU
Though one of the most infertile areas of Thailand, and home to
the nation’s poorest people, the Khorat Plateau is rich in culture and
historic sites from the days when the Khmer Empire held sway over
the region. The people are welcoming, the cuisine fiery hot, often
served with glutinous rice and raw vegetables, and the silk and
cotton handicrafts are exquisite.
The vast, sandstone Khorat Plateau
dominates the Northeast, a region that the
Thais call Isan. The plateau, which is about
660 ft (200 m) above sea level, takes up
almost a third of Thailand’s land mass and
is home to about a third of the population.
The uneven rainfall of the region causes
both floods and droughts and permits the
cultivation of only one rice crop per year.
As a result there is much rural poverty.
Although few tourists visit the region,
there is much of historical interest to be
discovered. To the north, at Ban Chiang,
lies a site that has revolutionized
archaeologists’ views of prehistoric
Southeast Asia. The Northeast is now
thought to be one of the first areas in the
Bung Phlan Chai, a scenic lake in the center of Roi Et town
Statue in the central sanctuary at Prasat Hin Khao Phnom Rung
NORTHEAST THAILAND  273
world where rice growing, bronze making,
and silk weaving were pioneered.
Silk production has flourished again since
the mid-20th century, and visitors are
drawn to modern-day weaving villages
where a wide range of silk and cotton
goods are sold.
In the 9th century AD, the Khorat
Plateau came under Cambodian control,
which was to endure until the end of the
13th century. It was during this period
that the region’s splendid Khmer temples
were built. The magnificent stone temples
at Phnom Rung and Phimai, which once
stood on a road linking the plateau with
the Khmer capital of Angkor, have now
been evocatively restored.
274  northeast thailand

Exploring the Khorat Plateau

the Khorat Plateau occupies most of northeast thailand. it is a broad
stretch of barren, arid hills some 985 ft (300 m) above sea level,
separated from the Central Plains to the west by the Phetchabun
mountain range. Much of the region is characterized by red earth
and scrub forest. Khorat city, regarded as the gateway to the
northeast, is the center of the region’s transportation network. Nong Bualamphu
other towns and sights of interest in the region can be reached
by road from here, though distances are
Si Buan Ruang
considerable. north of Khorat lie the
towns of Khon Kaen and roi et; farther
north still, the prehistoric site of Ban Lom Sak
Ubon Rai
Chiang. east of Khorat the main Phitsanulok
Reservoir

attractions are the Khmer temples

Khon San Chumphae
of Phimai and Phnom rung. nearby
are ta Klang and surin, which are Phetchabun Nong
Rua
linked to the elephant trade. i Phu Khiaw
oe
g H

Sights at a Glance Na Yom Mancha

Phan

1 Udon Thani Kiri

2 Ban Chiang Na Chan

i
3 Khon Kaen Ch
4 Roi Et

m
Nong Phai

La
5 Yasothon
Chaiyaphum Lat Yai
6 Prasat Hin Phimai (see pp280–81)
7 Khorat
8 Dan Kwian
9 Prasat Ta Muen and Prasat Ta
Pa S

Bua Yai
Muen Tot Don Mo
ak

Kaeng Nong Bua

0 Prasat Hin Muang Tam Khok
q Prasat Hin Khao Phnom Rung
(see pp284–5)
Dan Khun
w Surin Thot PRASAT HIN
Chai Badan PHIMAI
e Ban Ta Klang

Bangkok
KHORAT
Lam Thakong
Reservoir DAN KWIAN

Pak Thong Chai

Bangkok
n
Mu

Thap Lan
National
Pa r k

Chachoengsao
0 kilometers 50

0 miles 25 Aranyaprathet

The exquisitely restored Prasat Hin Phimai

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 k h o r at p l at e au  275

Nong Khai

BAN CHIANG
UDON
THANI
Sakhon
Nakhon

Wang Sam Mo

Lam Pao
Reservoir
Nam Bun Bang Fai (Rocket Festival), celebrated each year at Yasothon
Pong
Sakhon Nakhon
Kranuan
Po
an
g

Yang
KHON Ta Lat Getting Around
KAEN Kalasin
The Khorat Plateau is well served by air-
conditioned buses, which operate between
Maha Ch Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Morchit)
Sarakham i
and most towns and cities in the region.
Ban Phai ROI ET Selaphum Local bus services connect small towns
and villages. Journey times tend to be
long because of distances and poor
quality of roads. The rail route from
Wapi YASOTHON Bangkok divides into two main
Pathum
Pho Yai sections at Khorat: it runs east
Yang Si Surat toward Ubon Ratchathani in the
Suwannaphum Mekong River Valley (see pp306–7)
and northeast to Udon Thani and
Phayakkhaphum
Mun
Nong Khai close to the border with
Phisai
Mun Laos. Khorat, Khon Kaen, Buriram and
Satuk
BAN TA KLANG Roi Et all have domestic airports. There
i

are relatively few organized tours available

Ch

Khu Muang
to the region from Bangkok.
Nam

Ubon
Ratchathani
Lam
La

Buri Ram
m

Key
Pla

Sikhoraphum
i Mal

SURIN Expressway
Major road
Minor road
Nang Prasat Scenic route
Rong Prakhon
Railway
PRASAT HIN KHAO PHNOM RUNG
International border

PRASAT HIN PRASAT TA MUEN AND

MUANG TAM PRASAT TA MUEN TOT

Khao Chong Tako

Ta Phraya

Elephants at Surin, part of the mass roundup

(see p282) that takes place annually
For keys to symbols see back flap
276  NORTHEAST THAILAND
Nong Prachak Park, one of the more peaceful parts of Udon Thani
1 Udon Thani

Udon Thani province. * 170,000.
~ £ @ n TAT, Mukmontri Rd,
Udon Thani (0-4232-5406). ( daily.
During the Vietnam War Udon
Thani changed from a sleepy
provincial capital into a
booming support center
for a nearby American
airbase. Since the
withdrawal of the GIs
in 1976, Udon has
retained a little of that
past vibrancy, together
with some rather
nondescript streets,
lined with Western- Ban Chiang pot,
style coffee shops,
nightclubs, and
massage parlors. It has
continued to grow as an
industrial and commercial
center within the region.
The most attractive part of
town is Nong Prachak Park,
where there are some open-air
restaurants. The town makes a
good base for travelers wanting
to visit nearby Ban Chiang.
2 Ban Chiang

Udon Thani province. * 4,680.
@ from Udon Thani. n TAT, Udon
Thani (0-4232-5406). ( daily.
The principal attraction for
visitors to Ban Chiang is its
archaeological site (see pp58–9) .
It was discovered by accident
in 1966 by an American
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
Here the main exhibits are
graves containing skeletal
remains and ceramics used
for symbolic purposes in burial.
Bodies were wrapped in
perishable material and laid
on their backs. Pots were then
arranged along the edge of the
grave and over the bodies
themselves. Other grave goods
found at the burial site include
pig skulls and mandibles,
jewelry, tools, weapons,
and river pebbles.
Research associated with the
discoveries at Wat Pho Si Nai
indicates that the inhabitants
of Ban Chiang were a strong,
sociologist who tripped long-legged people with wide
over some remains. The finds foreheads and prominent
provided archaeological cheekbones with an average
evidence that northeast life expectancy of 31 years.
Thailand may have been one The main causes of death were
of the world’s earliest centers diseases such as malaria. As with
of bronze production. other early peoples of Southeast
Spearheads from the site are Asia, the exact ethnic origins of
thought to date from around the population of Ban Chiang
3600 BC, while ceramics, dating remain a mystery.
from between 3000 BC
and AD 500, testify to E Ban Chiang National Museum
a high degree of On edge of Ban Chiang. Tel 0-4220-
technical and 8340. Open 9am–4pm Wed–Sun. &
artistic skill.
Today, a collection
of these artifacts is on 3 Khon Kaen
display, together with 
ornaments such as
bangles and rings, Khon Kaen province. * 240,000. ~
c.2000 BC at the Ban Chiang £ @ n TAT, 15/5 Prachasamoson
National Museum. Rd, Khon Kaen (0-4322-7714/5).
A short walk from the ( daily. _ Silk Festival (10 days
museum, 1 mile (2 km) through Nov/Dec). ∑ khonkaen.com
dusty streets lined with quaint
wooden shop-houses, two Once the quiet capital of one
covered excavation sites lie in of the poorest provinces in the
the grounds of Wat Pho Si Nai. northeast of Thailand, this place
Khon Kaen National Museum, home to Ban Chiang and Dvaravati relics
 K H O R AT P L AT E AU  277

has changed into a bustling 4 Roi Et

town. Located at the heart of
the region, it has consequently
been a focus of regional
development projects – the
town now boasts the largest
university in the northeast, in
addition to its own television
studios. There are a number of
modern hotels and shopping
complexes, all of which nestle
rather incongruously among
the town’s more traditional
streets and market places.
Places of interest to tourists
include Khaen Nakhon Lake,
an artifical lake beside which
are some restaurants. Khon
Kaen National Museum has a
collection of Ban Chiang
artifacts and a number of
Dvaravati (see pp60–61) stelae
carved with excerpts from the
life of the Buddha, as well as
examples of local folk art.

Roi Et province. * 119,000. k @
n TAT, Khon Kaen (0-4322-7714/5).
( daily.
Founded in 1782, Roi Et literally
means “one hundred and one,” a
name that is thought to be an
exaggeration of 11, the number
of vassal states over which the
town once ruled. Today it is a
steadily growing provincial
capital. The modern skyline is
dominated by an immense The Phraphuttha-rattana-mongkol-
brown and ocher image of the maha-mani image at Roi Et
Lord Buddha, the Phraphuttha-
rattana-mongkol-maha-mani, the tallest in the world. The
which is situated within the climb up the statue offers an
grounds of Wat Buraphaphi­ impressive view of the town
ram. Measuring 225 ft (68 m) and surrounding area. Silk and
from its base to the tip of its cotton are both good buys in
flame finial, this giant standing Roi Et and can be found along
Buddha is reputed to be one of Phadung Phanit Road.

The Khaen
Originating in Laos, and played widely in Northeast Thailand, the
khaen is a large, free-reed panpipe and is constructed primarily of
bamboo. Although the length and pitch of the khaen are not
standardized, the number of pipes and the tuning are. Each khaen
is pitched according either to the personal preference of the player,
or to the range of the singer it accompanies, and has a range of
two octaves – this gives a total of 15 pitches. Whereas most arts in
Thailand are formally taught, khaen players tend to learn their skills
by listening to relatives and neighbors in the village. There is no
written music for the khaen, its repertoire having been passed
down through oral transmission. It was traditionally played by
young men on their way to woo their sweethearts or by blind
beggars in the hope of receiving a few coins for their
performances. Women never play the khaen.
Craftsmen assemble the khaen from
bamboo reeds dried in the sun. Wax
Phin (a type of guitar) Ponglang (a type of from the khisut, an insect, is used to
xylophone) glue the reeds together and attach
them to the carved windchest.
Khaen

The khaen consists

varying lengths of
bamboo, each producing
a different pitch.

Holes in the reeds

are fingered to
create different
levels of pitch.

Notes are made by

blowing into this
Orchestra with khaen, phin, and ponglang players carved windchest.
278  NORTHEAST THAILAND

the streets, surrounded by

revelers, then shot into the
clouds to “fertilize” them.
The festival’s sexual overtones
come out in bawdy humor
and flirtation, not encouraged
at other times. The owners of
those rockets that fail to
go off are ritually coated
in mud.

6 Prasat Hin Phimai


Bun Bang Fai or “Rocket” Festival held each year at Yasothon See pp280–81.

5 Yasothon Yasothon is best known,

 however, as the principal 7 Khorat
venue for the Bun Bang Fai or
“Rocket” Festival (see pp50–51).

Yasothon province. * 108,000.
@ n TAT, Ubon Ratchathani (0- As a result of harsh weather in Khorat province. * 207,000. ~ £
4524-3770). ( daily. _ Bun Bang Northeast Thailand, this festival, @ n TAT, 2102–4 Mittraphap Rd,
Fai (Rocket) Festival (May). the principal function of which Khorat (0-4421-3666). ( daily. _
is to appease a Hindu rain Thao Suranari Festival (late Mar/early
Like many provincial towns god, is one of great symbolic Apr); Phimai Boat Racing (Oct/Nov).
across Thailand, Yasothon has importance. Local people
only a few tourist sights. There invest enormous sums of In former times, Khorat, or
are one or two temples that are money in the construction Nakhon Ratchasima, was two
worth visiting, in particular Wat of huge bamboo rockets. The separate towns, Khorakhapura
Thung Sawang and Wat gunpowder that goes into the and Sema; they were joined
Mahathat Yasothon. Situated in rockets is pounded by young during the reign of King Narai
the center of the town, the latter girls in the temple grounds, (1656–88). Today Khorat is a
is home to the Phra That Phra and, perhaps surprisingly, it is rapidly expanding business
Anon chedi, thought to have Buddhist monks who possess center. Its development stems
been built in the 7th century to the expertise of building and from playing host to a nearby
house the relics of Phra Anon, the firing the rockets. The rockets US airbase during the Vietnam
closest disciple of the Buddha. are paraded on floats through War. At first sight Khorat

Khorat City Center

1 Wat Suthachinda 4 Night Market
2 National Museum 5 Wat Phra Narai Maharat 0 meters 200
3 Thao Suranari Monument 6 Wat Sala Loi 0 yards 200

ong
kh
Lam T
a

C HA N G PHU AK

I
RA
NA
RA

Airport
SU

6 miles (10 km)

MITTRAPHAP MITTRAPHA
P Wat Sala Loi
BANGKOK PHONSAEN
North Gate
R AT C HADAMN OEN

Bus
C H UM PH ON
SO I J A NT

Terminal
Y O M M A R AT YOMMA
T H AO

R AT
P RAC H A K

PHONLAN

S URA N A R I

AT S A D A N G
NG

SURA
M A N UT

Wat Phra
BU A RO

G Thao Suranari Narai Maharat

P HO KL AN
Monument CHOMPHON
KUDAN

Night East Gate

WAT C H A RA

Train Station Market

CH A IN A R O N G

550 yards (500 m) CHO M S U R A NG Y ET MAHAD THAI

National
Museum
Wat SAPPHASIT
SA RI T

Suthachinda

KAMHAENG SONGKHRAM
R AT C H A N I K U N
South Gate
For keys to symbols see back flap

Ornate pediment and façade of the bot
at Wat Phra Narai Maharat
appears to the visitor as a
sprawl of confusing roads and
heavy traffic. The city center
has little of interest save
for the Night Market that
sells good-value street
foods and local
handicrafts.
At the city’s western
gate, Pratu
Chumphon, is
the Thao Suranari
Monument, built in
memory of Khunying
Mo, a woman who
successfully defended
Khorat against an
attack by an invading
Lao army in 1826.
While her husband,
the deputy governor
of Khorat, was away on
business in Bangkok,
Prince Anuwong of Vientiane
(see pp298–9) seized the city.
Khunying Mo and her fellow
captives allegedly served the
Lao army with liquor and were
then able to kill them in their
drunken stupor with whatever
weapons were at hand. The Lao
invasion was therefore held at
bay until help arrived. Khunying
Mo was given the title of Thao
Suranari or “brave lady” from
which the monument, built in
1934, derives its name. It shows
Khunying Mo standing, hand on
hip, on a tall pedestal. The base
of the statue is adorned with
garlands and ornamental
offerings made by local people
in their respect for her; a week-
long festival, including folk
NORTHEAST THAILAND  279
performances of dancing, a fitting resting place for the
theater, and song is also held heroine without whom present-
in her honor each year. day Khorat would possibly
Located in the grounds of not exist.
Wat Suthachinda is Khorat’s Just outside Khorat, Wat Khao
Maha Weerawong National Chan Ngam, is the site of
Museum. The artifacts on prehistoric finds, while at Wat
display here range from skeletal Thep Phitak Punnaram, a
remains of human corpses, large white Buddha overlooks
Dvaravati and Ayutthaya the road.
Buddha images, ceramics, and
wood carvings, and were E Maha Weerawong
donated to Prince Maha National Museum
Weerawong, from whom the Ratchadamnoen Rd. Open 9am–4pm
museum derives its name. Wed–Sun. Closed public hols. &
Though quite a modern city,
Khorat has a number of other
Buddhist temples. In the wihan 8 Dan Kwian
of Wat Phra Narai Maharat is a 
sandstone image of the Hindu
god Vishnu, originally found at Khorat province. * 2,300.
Khmer ruins near to the city. n TAT, Khorat (0-4421-3666).
One of the most strikingly
innovative, modern Buddhist Southeast of Khorat is Dan
temples in northeast Thailand Kwian, first inhabited in the
is Wat Sala Loi, or the “temple mid-18th century by the Mon
of the floating pavilion,” people traveling east from the
on the banks of the Burmese border. Since then it
Lam Takhong River. has become famous for its rust-
Designed in the form colored pottery, derived from
of a Chinese junk, the high iron content of the
the main wihan of local clay.
this wat has won Today Dan Kwian is essentially
architectural awards. a collection of ceramics
It was constructed factories, many of which can
entirely from export large items for tourists.
local materials, Shops selling the local
including distinctive pottery line the highway at
earthenware tiles the entrance point to the
made only at the village. Items for sale include
Thao Suranari nearby village of Dan jewelry, elaborately decorated
Monument Kwian. The original site vases, often in the form of
on which Wat Sala Loi upstanding fish, chicken-
now stands dates back to the shaped plant pots, leaf-shaped
time of Khunying Mo, and her wind chimes, and traditional
ashes are still buried here, water jars.
Lucky Khorat Cats
Silver-colored Khorat cats are named
after the Khorat Plateau. They are one
of the most prized breeds in Thailand.
A pair of Khorat cats is sometimes
given as a wedding present in the
Northeast, as they are believed to bring
good fortune to their owners. They are
mentioned in a book of cat poems
written during the Ayutthaya period.
Khorat cats were first introduced to the
West in 1896, but did not gain the
same popularity as their cream-colored
relatives, who are still known as the
original Siamese cats. Thai stamp bearing a picture of
a Khorat cat
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
280  NORTHEAST THAILAND

6 Prasat Hin Phimai


In the small town of Phimai, on the banks of the Mun River,
lies one of Thailand’s most extensively restored Khmer temple
complexes. There is no definitive date for the construction
of this temple, but the central sanctuary is likely to have been
completed during the reign of Suryavarman I (1001–49).
Prasat Hin Phimai lies on what was once a direct route to
the Khmer capital at Angkor and, unusually, is oriented
in a southeasterly direction to face that city. Originally a
Brahmanic shrine dedicated to Shiva, Prasat Hin Phimai was
rededicated as a Mahayana Buddhist temple at the end of
the 12th century. Its famous lintels and pediments depict
scenes from the Ramayana (see pp44–5) and, unique among
Khmer temples, Buddhist themes. Restoration of the site
was carried out by the Fine Arts Department in 1964–9. Front View of Central Sanctuary
The white sandstone edifice is
topped with a rounded prang,
the style of which may have
Naga Bridge influenced the builders of
This symbolic bridge leads Angkor Wat (see pp268–9).
to the main entrance
of the temple complex.
The line of nagas that
flank either side of the
bridge are mythical Central Sanctuary
guardian spirits. The word prasat, which is used
to refer to the central sanctuary,
also describes the temple
complex as a whole.

KEY

1 Mandapa (hallway of main

entrance)
2 Rama and Lakshman appear on
the lintel over the western entrance
to the mandapa. They have been
Southern Pediment
tied up with a naga. The monkeys
The southern pediment of the
below despair, while above them a
mandapa shows a dancing
garuda (a mythical creature, half-bird,
Shiva, a classic Khmer theme.
half-human) and more monkeys
His mount, Nandin the bull,
come to the rescue.
is to the right.
3 Rama and his monkeys,
building the causeway to Lanka –
a scene from the Ramayana
(see pp44–5) – can be seen on the
western pediment of the prang.
4 Prang (tower)
5 The God of Justice, on the
pediment of the eastern porch,
judges a feud between Rama and
Tosakan (see p45), good and evil.
6 Trilokayavijaya, the most
important Mahayana Bodhisattva Pilaster with Vajarasattva
(Enlightened being), can be seen on On the southern face of the mandapa, this pilaster
the interior lintel of the eastern porch. shows a Vajarasattva (guardian spirit), holding
a thunderbolt and a bell, protecting the door.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 K H O R AT P L AT E AU  281

. Northern Porch VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The centerpiece of the northern porch
is this lintel depicting a three-headed, Practical Information
six-armed Vajarasattva. Below him Centre of Phimai town, Khorat
crouch a group of dancing girls. province. Tel 0-4447-1568.
n TAT, Khorat (0-4421-3666).
Open 7am–6pm daily. &
_ Phimai Temple Festival (Nov).

Transport
~ £ @ Khorat, then
songthaew.

. Northern
Pediment
This scene from the
Ramayana includes
Vishnu holding a
conch, a lotus, a
discus, and a staff.

. Buddha under Naga

Seated atop a coiled
naga and protected
by an umbrella formed
by the beast’s head,
this reproduction of a
13th-century Buddha is in
the Bayon (see p268) style.

Plan of Complex
1 Central sanctuary
2 Inner compound
3 Outer compound
4 Royal pavilions
5 Gopuras (entrance pavilions)
6 Naga (serpent) bridge
5

2
Novice Monks 5 4 1 5
Though Prasat Hin
Phimai does not
function as a working
wat, it is sometimes
the setting for 5
Buddhist gatherings 6
and celebrations.
282  northeast thailand

9 Prasat Ta Muen
and Prasat Ta
Muen Tot

Off Hwy 214, Surin province. n TAT,
Khorat (0-4421-3666). £ @ Surin,
then preferably by organized tour.
Open daily. &
In the district of Ta Muen, in
Surin province, the remains of
two Khmer prasats stand 330 ft
(100 m) apart. One, Prasat Ta
Muen, is a laterite chapel
marking what would once have
been a resting place on the
long, arduous road between
Angkor (see pp268–9) and Border police who act as armed escorts for visitors, Prasat Ta Muen
Prasat Hin Phimai (see pp280–
81). The other, Prasat Ta Muen Khorat Plateau. Because of 0 Prasat Hin
Tot, is more decayed and
was originally a hospital to
their location along the rather
dangerous Cambodian border,
Muang Tam
care for travelers along this Ta Muen and Ta Muen Tot are 
route. Both were built by King best seen as part of a tour
Off Hwy 214, Buri Ram province.
Jayavarman VII (1181–1220). organized by one of the
n TAT, Khorat (0-4421-3666).
Although both prasats are guesthouses in Surin, and @ from Surin to Prakhon Chai,
today largely in ruins, with their may require a military escort. then songthaew. Open daily. &
brickwork gripped and overrun They are not easily accessible
by the roots of towering fig to lone tourists and cannot be Muang Tam, or “the lower city,”
trees, they are potent reminders visited at times of disputes stands at the foot of Khao
of the powerful Khmer Empire and skirmishes between the Phnom Rung, an extinct
that once held sway over the various rival factions in the area. volcano on top of which lies
the Khmer site of Prasat Hin
Khao Phnom Rung (see pp284–5).
The Surin Elephant Roundup Muang Tam postdates the
In the third weekend of November, Surin is transformed by the earliest stages of construction
annual Elephant Roundup. The first roundup was held here in 1960, of the more elaborate and well-
though nowadays the elephants are used less as working animals preserved temple above and
than as performers. Some 150 to 200 elephants from local farms are was built in brick, sandstone,
led into Surin by their riders. Shows include demonstrations of how and laterite between the 10th
elephants are captured and raised. There are war parades celebrating and 12th centuries as a
King Naresuan of Ayutthaya (1590–1605), who fought the Burmese residence for the local governor.
on elephant back. Soldiers, dressed in Ayutthayan costume, march Today little remains, and at first
toward an imagined enemy with spears and shields poised. There are sight Muang Tam appears to be
also demonstrations of the elephants’ strength and intelligence, as
nothing more than an exotic
well as a chance for spectators to take rides.
heap of decaying brickwork.
The remains of four brick
sanctuaries surround what
would once have been a central
temple containing religious
icons. The reliefs on the Muang
Tam lintels indicate that these
icons are most likely to have
been Hindu. The lintel over the
northern sanctuary shows Shiva
and his consort Parvati riding on
Nandin the bull, another lintel
depicts the four-headed Hindu
god of creation, Brahma.
All the sanctuaries in the
Elephants and riders in traditional costume, Surin complex face east and are
encircled by galleries (now
collapsed). On each side there
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

are also four gopuras or entrance
pavilions. Beyond these lie four
L-shaped ponds, decorated at
each corner with majestic,
multiheaded nagas. The ponds
themselves are filled with
colorful lotus blossoms.
An immense reservoir or
baray, 3,950 ft (1,200 m) wide
and 1,650 ft (500 m) long, is
situated to the north of Muang
Tam, pointing to the fact
that this site probably once
supported a sizeable population.
q Prasat Hin Khao
Phnom Rung

See pp284–5.
Boiling silkworm cocoons to release
the silk threads, Surin
w Surin

Surin province. * 214,000. £ @
n TAT, Khorat (0-4421-3666). (
daily. _ Elephant Roundup (Nov).
Surin is famous for its silk, its
elephants, and its first ruler,
Phraya Surin Phakdi Si Narong
Wang, from whom it derives its
name. A modern statue in the
town depicts the leader dressed
to go into battle. A member of
the Suay tribe, Phraya Surin
became ruler of Surin in 1760
when, according to legend,
he was instrumental in
recapturing an escaped royal
white elephant (see p110).
The process of silk production
(see pp270–71) can be seen in
the surrounding villages. There
are over 700 patterns used by
silk weavers in Surin province.
Rhomboid designs are
especially popular.
During the 1970s, when the
Khmer Rouge seized control
of, and terrorized, neighboring
Cambodia, thousands of
Cambodian refugees crossed
the Banthat mountains into
Surin province and took up
residence there, alongside
already established Lao
refugees, Thais, and Suay
tribespeople. Although
most immigrants
have been repatriated,
some remain.
Surin’s main
attraction is the
annual Elephant
Roundup, at the Surin
Sports Park. At other
times of the year,
artifacts associated
with elephant capture
and training can be seen
at the Surin Museum,
including buffalo-hide
ropes used by Suay
tribesmen to catch wild Statue of Phraya elephants for building,
elephants. There are also
exhibits of the protective
clothing and amulets, inscribed
with magical incantations,
worn during elephant hunts.
The capture and training
of elephants in Surin is
traditionally a male preserve.
In fact, women are strictly
forbidden to touch the
paraphernalia of the hunt, in
case they destroy the magic
needed to catch the elephants.
E Surin Museum
Chitramboong Rd. Tel 0-4451-3358.
Open 9am–4pm Wed–Sun.
An elephant feeding while the trainer takes a break, Surin
k h o r at p l at e au  283
Road sign advertising Ban Ta Klang,
the Elephant Village
e Ban Ta Klang

Surin province. * 15,000. n TAT,
Khorat (0-4421-3666). ( daily.
_ Elephant Roundup (Nov).
The Suay tribes people make
up the population of Ban Ta
Klang, which is also known
as the Elephant Village,
a name that reflects the
Suay people’s skill in
capturing and training
wild elephants. The Suay
are thought to have
migrated to Thailand
from Central Asia in the
early 9th century and to
have been the first
people to make use of
Surin in particular for the
construction of Khmer
temples. Nowadays, Ban Ta
Klang is the primary training
ground for the Surin Elephant
Roundup. Every October,
approximately one month
before the roundup in Surin
itself, Suay tribesmen begin to
practise their skills. In the days
leading up to the roundup,
the training becomes intense.
To participate in the roundup,
the riders must walk their
elephants the 32 miles
(50 km) or so south to the
outskirts of Surin.
284  NORTHEAST THAILAND

q Prasat Hin Khao Phnom Rung


Crowning the extinct volcano of Khao Phnom Rung is the
splendid Khmer temple complex Prasat Hin Khao Phnom
Rung. A Hindu temple, it was built here to symbolize Shiva’s
abode on Mount Krailasa – hence the processional way Western Porch Pediment
This carving shows monkeys
leading to the central sanctuary, its stairways, and naga rescuing Sita in a chariot
bridges extending in total for 655 ft (200 m). The temple’s that is itself a model of
construction began early in the 10th century, and, like other the temple.
Khmer sites, it lies on a route to Angkor Wat in Cambodia
(see pp268–9). Its buildings are aligned so that at
Songkran (see p52), the rising sun can be
seen through all 15 doors of the
western gopura.

. Central Sanctuary
The corncob-shaped prang of
the central sanctuary is the
cosmological summit of the
processional way.

Brick Sanctuary
Located just southeast
of the central
sanctuary, this
13th-century
Bayon-style, laterite
structure was a late
addition to the
compound. It was
built as a library.

KEY . Naga Bridge

This naga bridge,
1 Main temple compound which is located inside
2 Gopura the main temple
compound, links the
3 Naga bridge east-facing entrance
4 The stairway forms part of the gopura to the central
processional way to the principal sanctuary. The body
temple compound. of the naga forms the
bridge’s balustrade.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 K H O R AT P L AT E AU  285

Pediment over Porch

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of Mandapa
The carving on this
Practical Information
pediment represents
31 miles (50 km) S of Buriram,
Shiva Nataraja, the dancing
off Hwy 24, Buriram province.
Shiva, his 10 arms splayed
n TAT, Khorat (0-4421-3666).
out in a dance of death
Open 6am–6pm daily. & =
and destruction.
_ Phnom Rung Festival (Apr).

Transport
@ from Khorat or Surin to Ban
Ta Ko, then songthaew.

Nandin the Bull

This image of Nandin the bull,
the mythical mount of the
Hindu deity Shiva, is located
in the first, eastern chamber
of the central sanctuary.

. Ornamental Ponds
Located at the front of the entrance to the
main temple compound are four ponds. They
supposedly represent the four sacred rivers of
the Indian subcontinent. In the background,
a naga bridge leads into the complex.

Main entrance
. Processional Way
This processional walkway was built to
symbolize the spiritual journey from
earth to Hindu heaven.

MEKONG RIVER
VALLEY
Some 1,250 miles (2,000 km) from its source in the Tibetan Himalayas,
having passed through China, Myanmar (Burma), northern Thailand,
then Laos, the Mekong River reaches Chiang Khan in Northeast
Thailand. From here the river forms the border with Laos until it
flows into Cambodia. Although relatively few tourists visit this border
country, it has many natural and cultural attractions.
The agricultural basin of the Mekong River
Valley stands in contrast to the dusty,
parched Khorat Plateau to the south and
west and the rugged mountains on the
Lao side of the river. The Mekong River
Valley’s relatively fertile land means fruit
and vegetables can be produced on a
marketable scale. Furthermore, due to
its distance from Bangkok, the area has
escaped widespread development and
remains one of the most beautiful,
unspoiled regions in the country.
Lively Nong Khai is the most important
border town in the region and the access
point to the Lao capital, Vientiane.
The stretch of river to the west of here is
dotted with numerous picturesque
towns and villages with traditional teak
houses. At Phu Phrabat Historical Park
(near Ban Phu), a variety of mesmerizing
sandstone rock formations can be seen.
View from Nakhon Phanom, looking over the Mekong River and into Laos
Waterfall in Phu Kradung National Park
NORTHEAST THAILAND  287
Nearby are the extraordinary huge
Buddhist and Hindu statues of Wat Khaek.
As the river winds its way east and then
south, past Nakhon Phanom, it passes one
of the most important Buddhist pilgrimage
sites in Thailand, Wat Phra That Phanom.
The temple supposedly dates from the
death of the Lord Buddha in 543 BC.
Farther downriver is Pha Taem, a cliff face
painted with huge prehistoric figures and
unusual geometrical patterns. Not far
away, at Khong Chiam, the Mun River flows
into the Mekong, creating the
phenomenon of the “two-colored river.”
From here the Mekong flows into Laos and
then Cambodia. The Cambodian border
with Thailand has been the scene of
skirmishes between rival factions and, as a
result, it is not always possible to reach one
of the most magnificent of all Khmer
monuments, Prasat Khao Phra Wihan.
288  northeast thailand

Exploring the Mekong River Valley

the mighty Mekong river forms a 465-mile (750-km) border
between northeast thailand and laos. the valley along which
it flows is a relatively fertile area in an otherwise arid region of
thailand. it is possible to follow the length of the Mekong
from Chiang Khan to Pha taem by road. some of the most
attractive areas are west of nong Khai, where visitors pass
through sleepy towns and villages of pretty wooden
houses. south of the northern stretch of the LAGES T
VIL OU
Mekong lie the Phu rua, Phu Kradung, G R So
N
O SANGKHOM
and Phu hin rong Kla national parks. K VIENTIANE

E
Farther south is Ubon rachathani, M SI CHIANGMAI
by far the largest city PAK
CHIANG CHOM NONG
in the region. KHAN Nam KHAI
Som Ban Pheu
Pong
Phen
PHU PHRABAT
HISTORICAL PARK Udon
PHU RUA Thani
NATIONAL PARK LOEI
Phu Rua Wang
Saphung Na Kham Hai
Dan Sai

Phu Luang
1571m Nong Hin
Nakhon

PHU HIN RONG KLA

NATIONAL PARK PHU KRADUNG
NATIONAL PARK
Lom Sak
Phitsanulok

Phetchaburi

Khon Kaen

Key
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Railway
International border
Summit

The colorful Phi Ta Khon Festival, held in Loei

Sights at a Glance
1 Phu Kradung National Park
9 Si Chiangmai a Sirindhorn Dam
pp290–91
0 Nong Khai pp296–7 s Prasat Khao Phra Wihan
2 Phu Hin Rong Kla National
q Vientiane pp298–9 d Prasat Prang Ku
Park
e Sakhon Nakhon f Ubon Ratchathani
3 Phu Rua National Park
r Nakhon Phanom
4 Loei Tour
t Renu Nakhon
5 Mekong Villages Tour w Phu Phrabat Historical Park
i Pha Taem
6 Chiang Khan y Wat Phra That Phanom
o Khong Chiam
7 Pak Chom u Mukdahan
p Chong Mek
8 Sangkhom

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 mekong river valley  289

Getting Around
Nong Khai, Loei, Nakhon Phanom, and Ubon
Ratchathani are the best bases from which to tour the
area. Two train lines run through the region: a direct
line, which divides at Khorat, connects Bangkok to
Ubon Ratchathani and to Udon Thani. Travelers can
pick up a connection from Udon
Thani to Nong Khai. The best
Bung Kan way to get around is by bus,
Ban Mai rented car, or songthaew.
Me

Long-tail boats run on

ko
ng

Phisai Dong Bang

some sections of the
Mekong River.
Phon
Charoen
So
ng
kh
Nong ra m
Waeng

Tha Uthen
Sawan Akat
Daen Din Amuai
NAKHON PHANOM
Phang Khon Kusuman Wang Ta Lao-style chedi, Sakhon Nakhon
Nong Han Mua
Reservoir
SAKHON NAKHON
Na RENU NAKHON
m
Kam
Kham Phoem WAT PHRA
THAT PHANOM
Don Luang

Som Det
Khon Kaen
MUKDAHAN
Kuchinarai

Phon Thong
Loeng
Nok Tha

Khemmarat

Amnat
Charoen
Yasothon Me
ko
0 kilometers 50
ng

0 miles 25 Kham Khuan Trakan

Kaew Phutphon
La Meuang PHA TAEM
Chamrap
m
Se

Ch
Ba

i
KHONG CHIAM
Mu UBON SIRINDHORN
n RATCHATHANI DAM
Uthumphon CHONG
Thisai
MEK
Samrong Si Sa Ket Kanthararom
Na Phiman Sirindhorn
Thap Reservoir
Nong Ngu Det Udom
Luam
PRASAT Nong Riang
La

Surin PRANG KU
mD

Kantharalak
om Yai

Sangkha

Phum Saron
PRASAT KHAO
PHRA WIHAN

For keys to symbols see back flap

290  NORTHEAST THAILAND

1 Phu Kradung National Park


There are two legends connected to Phu Kradung,
or “bell mountain”: the first is that the sound of a bell,
said to be that of the god Indra, once rang out from
its peak; the second is that the mountain rings like a
bell when struck with a staff. This steep-sided, flat-
topped mountain is now a national park covering
135 sq miles (348 sq km), its 37-mile (60-km) plateau Asiatic Black Bear
This bear lives in forests all over
4,450 ft (1,350 m) above sea level. This plateau has Southeast Asia; it feeds on ants,
a climate cool enough for plants that cannot survive insect larvae, nuts, and fruit.
in other parts of Thailand; many animals also
live in its thin pine forests and grasslands.

Khun Phong waterfall •

Pha Nam Pha waterfall •

Waterfalls
Waterfalls are dotted all over Phu
Kradung. They are most impressive in
October (the end of the rainy season).
J
Pha Daeng

Pitcher Plants
Common in Phu Kradung,
carnivorous pitcher plants gather
nutrients lacking in the local acidic
soil by “eating” insects.

Pha Lom Sak

This unusually shaped sandstone
ledge is situated on the southern
edge of the plateau. It provides
beautiful vistas over the rolling hills
and valleys. In summer, lines of people
gather to photograph this popular
and scenic attraction.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 MEKONG RIVER VALLEY  291

Pha Nok An
ViSiTorS’ CheCKliST
“Swallow cliff,” situated
at the eastern edge of
Practical Information
the plateau, offers
Loei province. Park HQ about
breathtaking sunrise
5 miles (8 km) off Hwy 2019, on
views. Its name refers
Hwy 2019. Tel 0-4287-1333 inc
to the many families
bungalow bookings. n TAT,
of swallows who build
Udon Thani (0-4232- 5406);
their nests under the
Closed mid-Jul–early Sep (rainy
cliff’s overhang.
season). & = 0
Transport
@ Bus to Pha Nok Kao then
songthaew. Access to plateau
on foot only.

Asian Jackal
Thailand has two wild dogs. The
handsome Asian jackal, which lives
on Phu Kradung, has a bushy tail. The
other common species is the red dog.

KeY
• Phen Pop Mai
waterfall J
1 Phone Phop waterfall is named
after the first World Champion Thai
boxer, Phone Kingphet, who stumb-
led upon it when he was training.
Phone chose the plateau as a training
•
Tharn Yai waterfall ground because its cool climate
prepared him for fights abroad.
•
Tharn Sawan waterfall
Loei
• Sa Anodat pond

Park entrance

The Ballad of Phu Kradung

Phu Kradung was the inspiration for a long poem in 1969 by the
award-winning Thai poet and artist Angkhan Kalyanaphong, who
eulogized its unspoiled, natural beauties. Lam Nam Phu Kradung
(“the ballad of Phu Kradung”) reflects Angkhan’s interest in nature
and Buddhism. This excerpt translates poorly into English:
“Each time the
sun went down
I would sit at the
Makduk cliff
And watch
Key the beams of
Road colored light
Trail Pierce the
clouds and set
0 kilometers 10 alight the sky.”
Sa Anodat pond, one of many inspiring sights
0 miles 10

For keys to symbols see back flap

292  NORTHEAST THAILAND

Southeast Asia from 3 Phu Rua National

the 1950s alarmed Park
the Thai goverment,
and hostilities 
between the
Loei province. Park HQ off Hwy 203,
Communist Party
30 miles (60 km) W of Loei. Tel 0-8509-
of Thailand (CPT) and 5299. n TAT, Udon Thani (0-4232-
the military 5406); Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760 or
commenced in 1964. ∑ dnp. go.th for bungalow
Soon after, the open bookings). @ from Loei to Phu Rua
forests of the Phu Hin village, then songthaew. &
Rong Kla mountain
range became a CPT Phu Rua or “boat mountain” gets
stronghold. An its name from its peak, which is
average elevation of shaped like a junk. It stands
3,300 ft (1,000 m), some 4,500 ft (1,365 m) above
proximity to Laos – sea level and offers spectacular
run by the views of the town of Loei to
Communist Pathet the south and toward Laos.
Lao from 1975 A modern Buddha image sits
(see p299) – and the looking out over the plains in
access this facilitated contemplation of their beauty.
to headquarters, at It is possible to drive to the
Rapids in Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park Kunming in China, all summit of Phu Rua, passing
made it an ideal site. several bizarre rock formations
2 Phu Hin Rong Kla The CPT was active after 1976, on the way. The most remarkable
National Park when thousands of students is Hin Ta or “tortoise rock,” with
fled here after a coup in two huge sandstone
 Bangkok. By 1979, boulders stacked one
disillusioned with on top of the other,
Phitsanulok province. Park HQ off
Hwy 2331, 19 miles (31 km) SE of
Communism, many surmounted by a
Nakhon Thai. Tel 0-5535-6607. n TAT, began to take third, giving the
Phitsanulok (0-5525-2743); Forestry advantage of an structure the
Dept (0-2562-0760 or ∑ dnp.go.th amnesty from the appearance of a
for bungalow bookings). @ from Thai government. giant mushroom.
Loei or Phitsanulok to Nakhon Thai, Dwindling For the traveler
then songthaew. & support and with time to explore
government the 47 sq miles
Covering an area of 120 sq miles attacks on Phu (121 sq km) of this
(307 sq km), Phu Hin Rong Hin Rong Kla in Unusual rock formation at national park, a
Kla National Park has a wide the early 1980s Phu Rua National Park number of marked
variety of flora and fauna led the site to trails lead through a
and an unusual open-air fall to the authorities in 1982. beautiful landscape of meadows,
museum with exhibits of the Two years later it opened as a rock gardens, and pine and
Communist camp based here national park. Its highest peak, evergreen forests. Views across
in the 1960s and ’70s. The Phu Man Khao, rises to a height the surrounding lowlands can
spread of Communism in of 5,300 ft (1,620 m). be seen from Phu Kut and the
cliffs of Pha Lon Noi, Pha Dong
Tham San, Pha Yat, and Pha Sap
Thong. There are also several
waterfalls located around the
park, namely Huai Phai, Huai Ta
Wat, and Lan Hin Taek.
Animals at Phu Rua National
Park include barking deer, wild
pigs, a wide variety of birds,
including pheasant, and the
rare tao puru, or Siamese big-
headed turtle. Phu Rua is also
famed for being one of the
coolest areas of Thailand, with a
record low temperature of 25° F
(-4° C) having been recorded
Relics of the war between the military and the CPT, Phu Hin Rong Kla here in 1981.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 MEKONG RIVER VALLEY  293

in Bangkok, were posted to

Rolling hills near Loei, typical of this part of the Northeast
4 Loei the northernmost part of
Northeast Thailand, straddling
 the edge of the Khorat Plateau.
Loei province. * 86,000. ~ @ Though the province is
n TAT, Udon Thani (0-4232-5406). administrated as part of Isan
( daily. _ Cotton Blossom Festival (the Northeast), its climate and
(Feb), Phi Ta Khon Festival, Rocket landscape are more similar to
Festival (May/Jun). those of Northern Thailand. In
winter it is cold and foggy, in
In Thai, the word loei means summer searingly hot. In the
“beyond” or “to the farthest past, bureaucrats who had
extreme,” a fitting name for a fallen out of favor with the
town and province that lie in Siamese government, based
the remote town of Loei as
punishment for their inefficiency.
One fortunate aspect of Loei’s
isolation is that it firmly retains
its traditional flavor.
Lying along the west bank of
the Loei River, Loei has a few
sights of interest to visitors.
There is a lively market by the
bridge across the river, and next
to the bridge is the Lak Muang
or “city pillar.” The town also has
an old Chinese shrine, Chao
Pho Kut Pong, a popular place
of worship for the local people.
The surrounding valley is rich
in minerals and also produces
some of the finest cotton in
Thailand. Examples of this can
be bought in Loei, in shops
along Charoenraj Road and
Ruamchai Road.
Loei also has a reasonable
amount of cheap accom-
modations, making it a good
base from which to visit
Phu Rua and Phu Kradung
(see pp290–92) national parks.

Phi Ta Khon Festival

Although a less lively version of this
festival is held in the provincial
capital of Loei in July, its real home
is in the town of Dan Sai, 50 miles
(80 km) to the west. Here Phi Ta
Khon takes place in June at the
beginning of the rainy season
(see pp51–3). Its purpose is to
make Buddhist merit and call for
rain. The festival’s origins are in
the Buddhist tale of Prince
Vessandorn, the Lord Buddha’s
final incarnation before he
attained nirvana. Apparently,
when Vessandorn returned to Young men, dressed as spirits, preparing to parade a sacred
his city, the welcoming Buddha around Loei town
procession was so enchanting
Phi Ta Khon that the spirits emerged to
costume celebrate. Today, the young
men of Dan Sai dress up as
spirits (phi ta khon), draped in robes of patchwork
rags and sporting painted masks made out of
coconut tree trunks with huge, gaping mouths,
beaklike noses, and wicker-basket crowns.
During the three-day festival, they make playful
jibes at onlookers as they parade a sacred Buddha
image around the town. Monks also recite the
story of Vessandorn to the crowd. On the third
day, the “spirits” bring the festival to a close by
circumambulating the main building of the local
wat three times, before finally casting their colorful
masks into a nearby river.
Phi Ta Khon “spirits” making fun of onlookers
294  NoRTHeAST THAILANd

temples. Those temples most 7 Pak Chom

Ornate, Lao-style facade of Wat Tha Kok,
Chiang Khan
6 Chiang Khan

Loei province. * 52,000. @ from
Loei or Nong Khai. n TAT, Udon Thani
(0-4232-5406).
Chiang Khan consists of two
1-mile (2-km) long parallel
streets running along the south
bank of the Mekong River and
lined with run-down teakwood
shop-houses, restaurants, and
worth a visit are Wat Santi, Wat
Pa Klang, built over 100 years
ago by Lao immigrants, Wat Si
Khun Muang, Wat Tha Kok, and
Wat Mahathat. The latter is the
oldest temple in Chiang Khan,
its bot having been built in
1654. Like Wat Tha Kok, it shows
French colonial influence in its
colonnades and shutters.
Wat Tha Khok has a beautiful,
painted ceiling. Its exterior walls
are stained red, like the river,
from dust. This possibly stems
from deforestation in nearby
Laos, which exposes the local
red topsoil.
Environs
Located 1 mile (2 km) farther
east from Wat Tha Kok along the
Mekong River is Wat Tha Khaek.
Neglected for years, this temple
is now undergoing major
reconstruction in a mixture of
traditional and modern styles.
A further 1 mile (2 km) down
river are the scenic Kaeng Kut
Khu rapids.

Loei province. * 29,000. @ from
Loei or Nong Khai. n TAT, Udon Thani
(0-4232-5406). ( daily.
Pak Chom is little more than
a picturesque settlement of
ramshackle wooden buildings
clustered by the bank of the
Mekong River, 25 miles (40 km)
northeast of Chiang Khan.
It’s a good place to stop for
refreshments and to enjoy the
scenery. In the 1970s and 1980s
the town had a somewhat higher
profile thanks to Ban Winai, a Lao-
Hmong (see p210) refugee camp
of some 15,000 inhabitants.
It was established when these
tribespeople fled Laos in the
wake of the Pathet Lao (see p299),
who overthrew the Lao
monarchy and took control of
the country in 1975. In 1992 the
camp was disbanded and the
Hmong moved to Chiang Kham
in the Chiang Rai province of
Northern Thailand.

5 Mekong Villages Tour

As well as villages, this tour takes in temples, lush
forest, and great river views. No river in the world is
quite like the 2,500-mile (4,025-km) Mekong, with its
distinctive red waters. Its source is in the Himalayas,
and it separates Laos and Thailand for 470 miles 4 Ban Muang
(750 km) before flowing through Cambodia and Fishermen casting their nets are a
common sight at this point in the
Vietnam out into the South China Sea. Rich in Mekong River.
agriculture, its floodplain has been a source of
wealth in an otherwise infertile region.
2 Pha Baen
This small village is one of
Tips for Travelers many with picturesque
Length: 75 miles (120 km). wooden buildings and
Stopping-off points: Chiang river views.
Khan has a couple of restaurants,
and four or five good guest- 3 Pak Chom
houses serving food. Pak Chom, The journey along the
Sangkhom, and Si Chiangmai all stretch of river between
have good guesthouses offering Chiang Khan and Pak Chom
food. Some guesthouses rent out can be made by road or
bicycles. Food vendors can be by long-tail boat.
found in most villages and towns.
Public transport: Local buses
Key
run between the main towns 1 Chiang Khan
along the route. It is also possible Many of the temples and Tour route
to travel from Chiang Khan to shop-houses in Chiang Khan Other roads
Pak Chom by long-tail boat. show Lao influences.
Rivers

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 mekong river valley  295

8 Sangkhom

Nong Khai province. * 19,000.
@ from Loei or Nong Khai. n TAT,
Udon Thani (0-4232-5406).

The main attractions of this town

are its peace and quiet and its
location in a particularly lush
part of the Mekong River Valley.
Ranged along the bank of the
river are some quaint wooden
buildings. Sangkhom also makes
a good base for excursions into
the surrounding countryside. Topiary in the gardens of the Fisheries Department, near Si Chiangmai

Environs 9 Si Chiangmai world’s largest producer of

The Than Thip falls are a major
highlight of this area. Just outside
Sangkhom, 2 miles (3 km) off the
main highway, they are hidden in
the middle of jungle and banana
groves. The two main, and most
accessible, levels of this waterfall
have pools at their bases, making
them ideal for a refreshing swim.
More intre-pid travelers can
explore a further three levels
higher up the falls.

Nong Khai province. * 23,000.
@ from Loei or Nong Khai. n TAT,
Udon Thani (0-4232-5406). ( daily.
This town overlooks the Lao
capital of Vientiane (see pp298–9)
on the other side of the Mekong
River and has a large population
of Lao and Vietnamese refugees.
Its main claim to fame is as the
spring roll wrappers. When the
weather is good, they can be
seen along the roadsides,
spread out on bamboo racks
to dry in the sun.
Environs
Located 3 miles (5 km) outside
Si Chiangmai are the gardens
of the Fisheries Department,
featuring unusual elephant-
shaped topiary.

5 Than Thip Falls

Situated close to Sangkhom,
Lao s the Than Thip Falls, with their
numerous pools, make a
delightful refreshment stop.

6 Sangkhom
In beautiful surroundings,
this town is favored by
back-packers, who stay in
bamboo huts by the river.
Th aila nd

7 Wat Hin Mak Peng

This wat complex is the site of a
famous meditation center. It is
popular with Thai pilgrims, and
much of its wealth comes from
donations by affluent visitors. 8 Si Chiangmai
In this town there is a Roman
Catholic cathedral serving a large
0 kilometers 10 population of Christian Lao and
0 miles 5 Vietnamese refugees.
296  northeast thailand

0 Nong Khai = Prajak Road


 Along Prajak Road, visitors can
now one of the busiest commercial centers in the northeast, pay a call at the Village
this once sleepy border town continues to grow, benefitting Weaver shop, where traditional
from lively border trade with laos. the construction, in 1994, silk weaving is carried out.
The factory/shop specializes in
of the Friendship Bridge, the first bridge to span the Mekong
mut mee, the name given to a
river between thailand and laos, was a factor in an increase method of tie-dying used in the
in trade between the two countries. nevertheless, the town Northeast. It was established as
center retains much of its original charm, and nong Khai’s main part of a program to encourage
attraction for travelers is still its peaceful riverside character. local girls to stay and work in
Nong Khai, rather than moving
to larger urban centers such as
Bangkok. There is also a market
on Prajak Road, to the rear of
the bus station.

 Wat Si Muang

Off Meechai Rd. Open daily.
The temple buildings and chedi
of Wat Si Muang are Lao in style.
The wat has an ornate shrine at
the main entrance, cluttered
with Buddhist merit offerings.
Wat Si Muang is one of many
such temples that line the main
Meechai Road leading west
Boats moored on the River Mekong in Nong Khai toward Wat Pho Chai.

Exploring Nong Khai ( Indochina Market  Wat Pho Chai

Nong Khai’s streets and sois are
lined with traditional wooden
shop-houses. Its most vibrant
neighborhood is around
the Sadet riverboat pier, with
its market and adjacent
restaurants overlooking the
Mekong River. An influx of
prosperity in the town is made
obvious by the burgeoning
number of restaurants as well
as modern shopping centers
and banking facilities.
Intricate carving on the rear of the
Lao-style Wat Si Muang
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

Off Rimkhong Rd, Tha Sadet.
Open daily.
This market remains the focus
of lively, local trade carried out
between Thailand and Laos.
Reciprocal visa arrangements
allow merchants from
either country to
visit Vientiane
(see pp298–9)
or Nong Khai
for up to three
days. Merchan- Guardian lion, Wat Pho Chai
dise that can be
bought at the market includes
clothing, pots and pans,
foodstuffs, pestles and mortars,
fishing nets, and tables woven
from bamboo.
Prap Ho Monument

Janjopthit Rd.
The Prap Ho Monument, a sym-
bol of municipal pride, was built across the Mekong, it fell into
to honor those who held off Ho
Chinese invasions in 1855 and
1877. Built in 1886, and bearing
Thai, Lao, Chinese, and English
inscriptions, it is the site of
annual celebrations on March 5. account of this story.

Pho Chai Rd. Open daily.
The somewhat gaudy Wat Pho
Chai lies in the southwest of the
city, adjacent to a street market
of the same name. Its main
chapel sports
imposing naga
balustrades and a pair
of roaring lions at the
top of the entrance
stairs, protecting the
highly revered Luang
Pho Phra Sai Buddha
image housed inside.
This solid gold Buddha with a
ruby-studded, flame finial was
originally molded in the ancient
Lao kingdom of Lan Xang.
It later resided in Vientiane
(see pp298–9). In 1778 it was
taken by Prince Chakri, later
Rama I (1782–1809), following
the first Thai invasion of Laos.
As he attempted to ferry it
the river and, according to
legend, miraculously resurfaced.
After it had been rescued it was
placed in Wat Pho Chai. Murals
in the temple give a pictorial
 mekong river valley  297

Ban Chommani on the western ViSiTorS’ CHeCKLiST

outskirts of Nong Khai to Tha Na
Laeng on the opposite bank, Practical Information
some 12 miles (20 km) from Nong Khai province. * 83,000.
Vientiane. By the foot of the n TAT, Udon Thani (0-4232-
bridge, on the Thai side, is a 5406). ( daily. _ Nong Khai
stretch of sand known as Festival (Mar), Bun Bang Fai
Chommani beach, a popular (Rocket) Festival (May); Naga
Fireballs (Oct).
spot for picnicking Thais during
the dry season, when the waters Transport
of the Mekong River are low. £ 2 miles (3 km) W on Kaeo
Closer to the town center is Worawut Rd. @ Praserm Rd.
the Lao chedi of Phra That
Nong Khai, which collapsed
into the Mekong River in 1847. Among the giant gods, saints,
Luang Pho Phra Sai Buddha image, housed Over the years it has slowly and demons that are depicted
in Wat Pho Chai drifted farther and farther here are Rahu, the god of
into the middle of the river eclipses and, tallest of
 Other Wats to the point where it can all, a 82-ft (25-m) high
Apart from its major sights, now be seen only when seven-headed naga
Nong Khai has a number of the water is low. with a tiny Buddha
minor wats worth a visit. All of By far the most seated on its coils.
them have Lao-influenced unusual site of interest The atmosphere of
architecture and include Wat at Nong Khai lies some a walk through this
Haisoke, Wat Lamduan and 3 miles (5 km) to the east eccentric collection
Wat Si Sumang, which all offer of the town. Wat Khaek, of images is
views of the Mekong River, also known as Sala Kaew Ku, intensified by incense
and Wat Si Khun Muang. was founded in 1978 by and piped music.
the charismatic Luang Pu Seven-headed The shrine building
Environs Bunleua Surirat. This Thai- naga, Wat Khaek is an exhibition hall
Though always a major crossing Brahmin shaman allegedly on two floors that
point for tourists and traders trained under a Hindu guru in contains, among other things,
bound for the Lao capital of Vietnam, moved on to Laos, and numerous photographs of the
Vientiane, Nong Khai gained was then forced to Thailand by Luang Pu or “Venerable
significance as a commercial the hostile attentions of the Grandfather.” He is said to have
border post with the opening Pathet Lao (see p299). Wat Khaek such charisma that anyone
of the Friendship Bridge in is essentially an open-air theme drinking holy water offered by
1994. Built with Thai, Lao, and park of enormous, concrete him will immediately donate all
Australian cooperation, it links Hindu and Buddhist sculptures. their belongings to the temple.

Nong Khai Town Center

1 Prap Ho Monument 7 Wat Si Sumang
2 Wat Haisoke 8 Prajak Road
3 Indochina Market 9 Wat Pho Chai
4 Wat Si Muang
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5 Wat Si Khun Muang Mekon
SOI

6 Wat Lamduan Wat

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Lamduan
Wat Si
SAI

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HA Pho Chai Wat
Indochina EC
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Market
Muang
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Wat
PRA
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Haisoke Bus
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SOI K
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KAEO Station
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Wat Khaek,
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JAK
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Train Station
S O I N YA

2 miles (3 km)
A PA

2
21
Prap Ho
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Monument
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Friendship Bridge,
VIENTIANE

For keys to symbols see back flap

298  NORTHEAST THAILAND

q Vientiane preferred transliteration in Thai;

Pha Kaew in Lao.) A replica, a
 symbol of renewed friendship,
In its 1,000-year history, Vientiane has come under Khmer, was given to Laos by Thailand
Vietnamese, Thai, and French colonial influence. It was capital in 1994. The sack of 1828 left
of the Lan Xang Kingdom in the 16th century and later a the temple in ruins. Restored
in the 20th century, it is now a
vassal of Ayutthaya. The Thais sacked Vientiane in 1828.
museum. The beautifully carved
In 1893 the French annexed Laos and made Vientiane its main door is all that remains of
capital. Laos gained independence in 1953; in 1975 it the original wat.
became a Socialist Republic. A day trip from Nong Khai
(see pp296–7), today Vientiane shows a side of Southeast  Wat Sisaket
Lane Xang Rd. Open daily.
Asia that is fast disappearing.
Closed public hols. &
This wat, built in 1818, was one
Exploring Vientiane of the few buildings to survive
Vientiane has been isolated the sack of 1828. It is now the
from change for generations. oldest wat in Vientiane and one
However, it has now seen some of the most interesting to visit.
radical changes thanks to cross- Its most memorable feature is
border trade with Thailand, the 2,052 tiny Buddha images
encouraged by the Friendship made of terra-cotta, bronze, and
Bridge (see p297), and investment wood that fill niches in the walls
from China and Japan. Vientiane of the cloister. Over 300 Buddha
is shaking off its sleepy images also rest on a long shelf
image, but so far it has also below the niches.
remained blissfully free from
mass commercialism and Shop-house in Vientiane E Lao Revolutionary
uncontrolled development. Museum
Vientiane was one of three  Haw Pha Kaew Samsenthai Rd. Open 8am–noon,
important French Indochinese Setthathirat Rd. Open daily. 1–4pm daily. Closed public hols. &
cities; the others were Ho Chi Closed public hols. & Artifacts and photographs here
Minh City (or Saigon) and This temple was once home detail the period of French
Phnom Penh. French colonial to the Phra Kaeo or Emerald colonialism, independence
influence can still be felt in Buddha (see p87), which was in the 1940s and 1950s, and the
the city, with its broad, tree- taken by the Thais in 1778 and rise of the Pathet Lao.
lined boulevards and placed in Wat Phra Kaeo in
shuttered villas. Bangkok. (Phra Kaeo is the  Wat Mixai
Setthathirat Rd. Open daily.
Its gates flanked by two nyaks
Vientiane City Center or guardian giants, parts of
1 Wat Hai Sok 5 Wat Sisaket this wat complex were built in
2 Wat Ong Theu 6 Haw Pha Kaew 19th-century Rattanakosin style.
3 Wat Mixai
4 Lao Revolutionary Museum

Airport Pha That Luang

2.5 miles (4 km)
Lao
G

Revolutionary
ON

SA
Museum
HU

M
HE SE
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KY
OU

BO HA AI
UN NA
I M
AN

Wat
Hai Sok
AM
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That Dam N Morning

CH

TT A
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HA X
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Market
U
PA

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Wat IR
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Ong Theu VI SO
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NAM
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Wat PHOU A
N

G H
T

LA

PLACE A
LA

Mixai
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Wat
HA

Bus
Chanthabouli
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Wat Xiang SA Station

MA

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FA M
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Wat
CH

UM O
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Sisaket TH VI
Presidential A AN
Palace I G
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Me T
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0 meters N T
250 G H
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NONG KHAI
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0 yards 250
Wat Si Muang,
Wat Sok Pa Luang

For keys to symbols see back flap

 MEKONG RIVER VALLEY  299

 Wat Ong Theu VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Setthathirat Rd. Open daily.
One of the most important wat Practical Information
complexes in all Laos, Wat Ong Vientiane province, Laos.
Theu was originally founded in * 6 million. n corner of
the early 16th century. Destroyed Setthathirat Rd and Pang Kham
in 1828, it was rebuilt in the Rd. ( daily. _ Bun That Lung
19th and 20th centuries. The wat Festival (mid-Nov). Currency: kip,
Thai baht, US dollar. Visas and
houses a large, 16th-century
permits: A visa is issued on arrival
bronze Buddha image, with two
at Wattay Airport in Vientiane for a
standing Buddhas either side of fee of US$35. Two passport photos
it. The wat also houses a school are required. Visitors to Vientiane
for monks. can also enter via the Friendship Ho Nang Ussa, a rock formation in
Bridge, just outside Nong Khai in Phu Phrabat Historical Park
 Wat Hai Sok Thailand, crossing by bus. A visa is
Setthathirat Rd. Open daily. issued on arrival here too. Visas are w Phu Phrabat
Like other wats in Vientiane, valid for one month and allow you Historical Park
Wat Hai Sok has undergone to travel freely throughout Laos.
restoration. Its most distinctive

Transport
feature is an impressive five- k 2.5 miles (4 km) W of center. Off Hwy 2021, 6 miles (10 km) W of
tiered roof. @ off Khu Vieng Rd. 4 from Ban Pheu, Udon Thani province.
Nong Khai. n TAT, Udon Thani (0-4232-5406). @
Environs from Nong Khai or Udon Thani to Ban
The Pha That Luang, which Phu, then songthaew. Open daily. &
perches, somewhat out of the damaged in the 18th and
way, halfway up a hill on the 19th centuries and restored, The distinctive sandstone
northeastern outskirts of the albeit badly, by the French formations that are the central
city, is the most important in 1900. A better restoration attraction of this historical park
national and Buddhist of the site was undertaken cannot fail to leave their imprint
monument in Laos. According in the 1930s. on the imagination. The local
to legend a chedi was built Wat Si Muang, to the population has shrouded the
here in the 3rd century BC to southeast of the city center, site in many fantastic myths and
house a breastbone of the is the most popular place legends. According to one of
Lord Buddha. More tangible of worship in Vientiane. these, Princess Ussa was sent to
evidence suggests this was According to legend, the Phu Phrabat by her father to
the site of a Khmer prasat. site was chosen by Lao study. However, she fell in love
The present structure was sages in 1563. with Prince Barot. Outraged, her
built in 1566, when Vientiane Wat Sok Pa Luang is known father challenged the prince to
became the capital of the for its instruction in vipassana, a temple-building duel, but
Lan Xang Kingdom. It was a type of Buddhist meditation. lost. A huge sandstone slab
in the park, known as Kok Ma
Thao Barot, is supposedly
The Pathet Lao Prince Barot’s stable. The
The Lao Patriotic Front was formed after World War II and, with ties mushroom-shaped Ho Nang
to Ho Chi Minh’s Communist Party in Vietnam, opposed French rule. Ussa apparently represents
In 1953 Laos was declared a constitutional monarchy, backed by Princess Ussa’s residence,
France and the US. The LPF’s armed wing, the Pathet Lao, mounted where she pined away many
an armed struggle against the government in the 1960s. During the long years in exile.
Vietnam War the US repeatedly bombed Laos in order to stamp The 6,000-year-old human
out Pathet Lao support for the North Vietnamese. With the history of this site is testified to
withdrawal of American forces from the region in 1975, the Pathet by cave paintings found on the
Lao staged a bloodless coup and declared Laos the Lao People’s
underside of two natural rock
Democratic Republic.
shelters, known locally as Tham
Wua and Tham Khon or “ox cave”
and “people cave.”
At the entrance to the
historical park stands a crude
replica of Wat Phra That
Phanom (see p301); the Wat
Phraphutthabat Bua Bok
houses the Bua Bok
Buddha Footprint and is an
Poster supporting the Lao People’s Democratic Republic important pilgrimage site for
local Thais.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
300  northeast thailand
Wat Phra That Choeng Chum, the main wat in the old, once Khmer, town of Sakhon Nakhon
e Sakhon Nakhon

Sakhon Nakhon province. * 120,000.
~ @ n TAT, Nakhon Phanom
(0-4251-3490). ( daily. _ Wax
Castle Ceremony (Oct).
There are two sights of interest
in the friendly town of Sakhon
Nakhon. Wat Phra That Choeng
Chum is a beautiful temple
complex with a large bot and
wihan, a 10th-century Khmer
prang, and a whitewashed, 80-ft
(24-m) Lao-style chedi built
during the Ayutthaya period.
The old prang is reached
through a door in the wihan.
Etched into the prang’s base is
an ancient Khmer inscription,
and around it are Lao and
Khmer images of the Buddha.
Also in the compound is an
interesting display of luk nimit,
which are Brahmin foundation
markers that somewhat
resemble giant cannon balls.
The five-layered, 11th-century
Khmer prang of Wat Phra That
Narai Cheng Weng was built as
a Hindu monument. The name
Cheng Weng is taken from the
princess responsible for its
construction; Narai is a Thai
and Khmer name for Vishnu.
The most important lintel – over
the only entrance, to the east –
shows Shiva dancing to the
destruction of the universe, as
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
he tramples the head of a lion. t Renu Nakhon
On the northern portico is a 
splendid depiction of Vishnu,
with a lotus and baton in two Nakhon Phanom province. * 39,000.
of his four hands. @ from Nakhon Phanom. n TAT,
Nakhon Phanom (0-4251-3490).
( Wed.
r Nakhon Phanom
 Renu Nakhon is a village known
primarily for its weaving and
Nakhon Phanom province. * fine embroidery. At the popular
114,000. ~ @ n TAT, 1841 Wednesday market, colorful
Soontornvijit Rd, Nakhon Phanom cottons and silks are sold by the
(0-4251-3490). ( daily. _ phun, a measure 2 ft (75 cm)
Illuminated Boats Procession (Oct). long. Ready-made garments
and furnishings from all over
Nakhon Phanom – “city of hills” – the Northeast and Laos are
is a good town in which to also sold. There is a more
spend a few relaxing days by permanent gathering of textile
the Mekong. In the dry season a stalls around Phra That Renu.
beach by the river, Hat Sai Tai This was built in 1918 and
Muang, becomes exposed, and modeled loosely on the nearby
it is possible to walk out almost chedi at That Phanom.
as far as Laos. However, this
town cannot be used as a place
to procure a visa for, or as an
entry point into, Laos.
To celebrate the end of the
rains, during the night of the
full moon in the 11th lunar
month, there is a resplendent
procession of illuminated boats
on the river here. Measuring
some 33 ft (10 m) in length, the
boats are traditionally crafted
from bamboo or banana trees.
They are filled with lighted
candles, incense, kerosene
lamps, and offerings of Shop selling a range of locally made
fragrant flowers and candies. textiles, Renu Nakhon
 mEkoNg rivEr vaLLEy  301

y Wat Phra That Phanom VISITorS’ CheCkLIST

 Practical Information
This wat, in the remote town of That Phanom, is the most Center of That Phanom, Nakhon
revered shrine in Northeast Thailand, famous for its central, Phanom province. n TAT,
Nakhon Phanom (0-4251-3490).
Lao-style brick and plaster chedi. The chedi was constructed open 6am–7pm daily. =
some 1,500 years ago, but according to legend it was built _ Phra That Phanom Festival
eight years after the death of the Buddha in 535 BC, when (Feb/Mar).
local dignitaries erected it as a burial place for his breastbone. Transport
The monument has been restored many times, most recently @ from Nakhon Phanom,
after devastating rains in 1975. Each year at the full moon of Sakhon Nakhon, or Mukdahan.
the third lunar month, during a farming holiday, a week-
long temple festival attracts thousands of
pilgrims from Thailand and Laos.
Stone Lion One of
two on either side of
the outer compound’s
central path, this fierce
mythical beast is a
temple guardian who
wards off evil forces.

Gold decoration in
the shape of a multi-
leaved lotus flower
Pilgrims at Wat Phra That Phanom represents the path
Thousands come to pay homage at festival to Enlightenment.
time and throughout the year. Many
devotees are from Laos – the monument
is the second most sacred site to them, The chedi is
the first being That Luang in Vientiane. studded with
gemstones
and gold rings.
Central Chedi
The famous 185-ft (57-m) high chedi
at the center of the temple is in the
shape of a stylized, elongated lotus
bud. The present structure, rebuilt in Golden Buddha Image
1977, is modeled on That Luang in In abhaya mudra posture
Vientiane, Laos. (see p177) and shaded by
an umbrella, this image
sits near the entrance to
A chat, or
the inner compound.
ceremonial
umbrella

Numerous Buddha images

line the inner compound wall of Stone panels carved in the 10th
the chedi. Pilgrims paste squares century tell the legends of the
of gold leaf onto them as a way five men who supposedly built
of making merit. the chedi in the 6th century BC.
302  northeast thailand
The market along the river at Mukdahan, where Lao and Vietnamese merchandise is sold
u Mukdahan

Mukdahan province. * 83,000. @
n TAT, Nakhon Phanom (0-4251-
3490). ( daily. _ Ruam Pao Thai Ma
Kham Wan Chai Khong Fair (Jan).
Mukdahan is the capital of one
of Thailand’s newest provinces,
created in 1980 from areas that
were formerly part of
Nakhon Phanom and Ubon
Ratchathani provinces.
The most interesting street is
Samran Chai Khong Road, along
the Mekong River front. It faces
the second-largest city in Laos,
Suwannakhet, on the opposite
bank. In 2007, a second Thai–
Lao Friendship Bridge opened
Seated Buddha at Wat Yot Kaew
Siwichai, Mukdahan
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
across the river, linking
Mukdahan with Suwannakhet.
Visitors can obtain a visa on
arrival to enter Laos. Mukdahan
is a busy trading center, and
both Lao and Thai boats can
be seen at the pier, loading and
unloading their goods.
A market also runs most of the
length of the riverside, between
Wat Si Mongkol Tai and Wat Yot
Kaew Siwichai. Goods for sale
may be disappointing because
there are few examples of
traditional Lao and Vietnamese
merchandise. Expect an excess
of plastic ephemera, though
the market is worth a visit for
the local sweetmeats and its
colorful atmosphere.
Wat Si Mongkhol Thai was
built in 1956 by Vietnamese
immigrants in the town and
is distinguished by statues of
mythical creatures at the
entrance to its main chapel.
The gaudier Wat Yot Kaew
Siwichai houses an enormous,
seated, golden Buddha image.
The figure sits in an open-
fronted wihan with paneled
glass on two of its sides. Near
Wat Yot Kaew Siwichai, on Song
Nang Sathit Road, is the Chinese
Chao Fa Mung Muang shrine,
home to Mukdahan’s guardian
spirit. Also here is the Lak
Muang, or City Pillar, which is
usually draped in colorful
plastic garlands.
Environs
Excellent views of the entire
provincial capital can be
captured from the 1,650-ft
(500-m) peak of Phu Manorom.
A pavilion at the top of the hill
shelters a replica of the
Buddha’s Footprint.
} Phu Manorom
Off Hwy 2034, 3 miles (5 km) S
of Mukdahan. Open daily. &
i Pha Taem

11 miles (18 km) N of Khong Chiam,
Ubon Ratchathani province. n TAT,
Ubon Ratchathani (0-4524-3770).
@ from Ubon Ratchathani to Khong
Chiam, then tuk-tuk. Open daily. &
The route, 11 miles (18 km) from
Khong Chiam up to Pha Taem or
“painted cliff,” is a circuitous one,
really accessible only by rental
car or tuk-tuk. Along the way, a
few kilometers before you arrive
at the cliff top, an unusual,
sandstone rock formation can
be seen at the side of the road.
Known as Sao Chaliang, it is
reminiscent of the Ho Nang
Ussa at Phu Phrabat Historical
Park (see p299).
At the end of the journey, an
unmarked trail leads from the
parking lot to the cliff face. This
is decorated with huge figures

and geometrical designs.
Painted in an indelible red
pigment derived from soil, tree
gum, and fat, the paintings are
thought to date back some
4,000 years. Covering
560 ft (170 m) along
the cliff face, they
include depictions
of fish traps, wild
animals, giant
cockroachlike fish,
angular human beings,
and a 98-ft (30-m) stretch
of handprints. The Prehistoric cliff-painting, from Khong Chiam to
artists who created Pha Taem
these decorations are
thought to be related to the
early inhabitants of Ban
Chiang (see p276) and were
rice cultivators rather than
cave dwellers.
Pha Taem is particularly
beautiful at sunset, when it has
tremendous views across the
Mekong and of the wild Lao
jungle beyond.
o Khong Chiam

Ubon Ratchathani province.
* 30,000. @ n TAT, Ubon
Ratchathani (0-4524-3770). ( daily.
Khong Chiam is near the
confluence of the muddy red
Mekong and the indigo-blue
Mun rivers, which creates the
phenomenon of the maenam
song si or “two-colored river.”
Making wicker fish traps, Khong Chiam
mekong river valley
The differing colors of the rivers
derive from the amounts of
sand and clay suspended in
their waters. Scenic views are
offered from the bank at
Wat Khong Chiam,
and boat trips out to
the confluence
point itself allow a
full appreciation of
the blend of
colored waters,
clearest in April. It is
also possible to cross
the Lao town on the
opposite side of the
river, but this cannot be used
by travelers as an official
crossing point into Laos.
Visitors to Khong Chiam
can also watch traditional
conical fish traps being made
out of wicker.
p Chong Mek

Ubon Ratchathani province. * 4,900.
@ from Ubon Ratchathani. n TAT,
Ubon Ratchathani (0-4524-3770).
( daily.
Situated on the border between
Thailand and Laos, Chong Mek
is one of the few places at
which tourists can cross into
Laos. Other Lao entry points
include Nong Khai (see pp296–7),
Chiang Khong (see p253), and
Mukdahan (see p302). Visitors
can obtain a visa on
arrival, valid for one
month, for a fee of
US$35 and two
recent passport
photographs.
Since the border
crossing opened at
Chong Mek, a
vibrant market and
shopping area has
sprung up,
attracting busloads
of Thai tourists who
also cross into Laos
to visit the nearby
town of Pakse.
For those who do
not have a visa, it is
possible, even
without a passport,
to walk some 660 ft
Golden reclining Buddha image at Wat Phra That Phanom
 303
(200 m) over the border to
browse around the open-air
market and duty-free shops
that are set up there.
In the market, there may be
groups of old women selling
rare plants and flowers.
However, many of the plants
are, sadly, taken from the Lao
jungle. Visitors to the market
are advised not to buy these.
Boat on the Sirindhorn Dam
a Sirindhorn Dam

Ubon Ratchathani province.
n TAT, Ubon Ratchathani (0-4524-
3770). For information about tourist
accommodation call 0-4536-6085.
@ from Ubon Ratchathani to Chong
Mek, then songthaew.
Named after the second
daughter of King Bhumibol, the
Sirindhorn Dam was built in
1971. The reservoir it created is
27 miles (43 km) from north to
south; the turbines produce
24,000 kilowatts of electricity.
There is a park at the dam
HQ, and a restaurant and
bungalows. It is possible to
walk out over the dam and to
take a boat on the reservoir.
Dams in Thailand have been
funded by the World Bank since
the 1950s to meet Thailand’s
ever-increasing need for
electricity. They are given
support mainly by politicians
and the business community.
Residents and environmental
groups have begun to
campaign against the
construction of new dams.
306  NORTHEAST THAILAND
s Prasat Khao Phra
Wihan

Off Hwy 221, S of Ubon and Si Sa Ket,
just inside Cambodia. n TAT, Ubon
Ratchathani (0-4524-3770). @ from
Ubon or Sisaket to Kantharalak, then
songthaew. Open daily. &
The extraordinary site of this
early Khmer temple, laid out
along a spur of the Dongrek
Mountains, makes it one of
the most distinctive Khmer
structures outside of Angkor
(see pp268–9). Possibly older
than Angkor, sadly, it was long
the victim of disputes between
Thailand and Cambodia. After
much disagreement between
the two countries, in 1962 a
decision was taken by the
World Court: while the easiest
access to the temple is
through Thailand, the
temple stands firmly
in Cambodia.
During the mid-
1970s, the
years of the
Khmer Rouge
regime in
Cambodia,
the temple
became a Stone relief on the Cambodian sight of
strictly no-go Prasat Khao Phra Wihan
area. After the
Vietnamese invaded Cambodia
in 1978, conflicts between rival
factions continued in the area
until the late 1980s. The site was exhilarating. If the temple is
finally cleared of land mines and closed, elegant Khmer reliefs
opened to the public in the
early 1990s, but as civil unrest
A beautifully preserved stone gopura,
Prasat Khao Phra Wihan
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
Three ruined prangs, all on a single base, at Prasat Prang Ku
continues in Cambodia, this by the tails of two long nagas.
magnificent temple is forced In the center stands Vishnu on
to close down periodically. his mount, a garuda. On either
When Khao Phra Wihan is side of the garuda are two lions
open, tourists can walk through with garlands of flowers in their
army checkpoints to ascend a open mouths. The top half of
series of grand staircases, pass the lintel is decorated with
through stone gopuras, and dancing deities. In front of
then walk along an 2,800-ft Prasat Prang Ku is a 1,100-yard
(850-m) naga-lined (1,000-m) long Khmer baray
causeway to (reservoir), a welcome feeding
arrive at the ground for birds.
central sanc-
tuary, or prasat.
Dedicated to f Ubon
the Hindu god Ratchathani
Shiva, it is now
largely in ruins.

The prang in Ubon Ratchathani province.
particular is in * 118,000. ~ £ @ n TAT, 264/1
need of restoration. Views from Khuan Thani Rd, Ubon Ratchathani
the sheer cliffs here, over the (0-4524-3770). ( daily. _ Ubon
Cambodian plateau, are Candle Festival (late Jul).
∑ tatubon.org
carved in the cliff can be viewed From the 10th century, Ubon
from the Thai side of the border. Ratchathani province, often
simply known as Ubon, was
part of the Khmer Empire.
d Prasat Prang Ku It later fell under the control
of the Ayutthaya Kingdom
 (see pp64–5). The provincial
Off Hwy 2234, 43 miles (70 km) SW of capital, the city of Ubon Ratch-
Si Sa Ket, Si Sa Ket province. n TAT, athani was founded by Lao
Ubon Ratchathani (0-4524-3770). @ immigrants on the northern
from Ubon or Sisaket to Kantharalak, bank of the Mun River at the
then songthaew. Open daily. & end of the 18th century, and
Lao influence can still be seen
Located in the district of Prang in the architectural features of
Ku in Si Sa Ket province, this some of the city’s religious
11th-century Khmer monument buildings. Following the rapid
comprises three brick prangs growth of Ubon during the
on a single platform. The most Vietnam War, when it played
remarkable feature is a well- host to a nearby American air
preserved lintel, divided base, the city is, today, one of
horizontally into two sections the largest in Thailand.
 MEKONG RIVER VALLEY  307

At first sight, Ubon appears In 1853 King Mongkut (1851–

to be a great concrete sprawl,
but the Ubon National
Museum is one of the best in
the Northeast, and some
fascinating temples are dotted
around the city. The museum
is housed in the former
country residence of King
Vajiravudh (1910–25) and
contains displays of Khmer,
Hindu, and Lao Buddhist
iconography, as well as
traditional tools,
utensils, and
handicrafts.
One of the
rarest and most
impressive exhibits
is a giant bronze
drum, dating
back as far as the
4th century AD, that
was used originally for Figure atop Wat
ceremonial purposes. Supattanaram
The most interesting
of Ubon’s temples is Wat
Thung Si Muang on
account of its teakwood
library. Founded by King
Rama III (1824–51) the wat
houses 150-year-old murals
showing some of the jatakas
(see pp34–5). The complex also
includes a mondop with a
Buddha Footprint.
68) gave his support to the
construction of Wat
Supattanaram Worawihan
as the first temple in the
Northeast dedicated to the
Thammayut sect – a strict
branch of Theravada Buddhism –
of which the king was also a
member. It consists of a highly
eclectic blend of architectural
styles, having been built by
Vietnamese craftsmen who
were under instruction to
incorporate an unusual mixture
of Khmer, Thai, and European
architectural influences.
The more modern
Wat Phra That Nong Carved Buddha images in niches at
Bua was built in 1957 Wat Phra That Nong Bua
to commemorate the
2,500th anniversary of and the main temple, Wat
the death of the Lord Maha Wanaram, in which local
Buddha. Its two four- people worship.
sided, white-washed Ubon becomes a place of
towers are decorated pilgrimage at the beginning of
with standing Buddha images Buddhist Lent, when, during the
in niches and reliefs of tales of Ubon Candle Festival (see p53),
the Buddha in his previous lives. large, sculpted candles are
Ubon also has several other carried through the streets.
interesting temples: Wat Cheng,
with its elegant Lao-style E Ubon National Museum
wooden carvings; Wat Si Ubon Khuan Thani Rd. Tel 0-4525-5071.
Rattanaram, built in 1855 and Open 9am–4pm Wed–Sun.
housing a topaz Buddha image, Closed public hols. &
originating from Chiang Saen; ∑ thailandmuseum.com

Ubon Ratchathani City Center

1 Wat Supattanaram Worawihan 5 Wat Maha Wanaram
2 Ubon National Museum 6 Wat Thung Si Muang
3 Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram
0 meters
4 Wat Cheng 300
Wat Phra That Nong Bua 0 yards 300
S O I S U M PA S I T 2

S U R I YAT Airport
550 yards (500 m)
SU
CH

P H ADAENG

RA

Wat Cheng
PH
AY

A N

SAPPHASIT
AN

Wat Maha
GK

Wanaram
PHO

YASOTHON
UN

NPH

PHICHIT RANGSA N
TH E P YO T HI

AEN

Bus Station
G
LU A N

PHALO
N A K HO N BA N

CHAI
RIT
R UNG
SURASAK PH A LO
Wat Thung
Wat Si Ubon Si Muang
Rattanaram
SI NARONG SI NARONG

Ubon National
Museum KHUAN THANI
YU T TH A PAN
RAT C H A BUT

LU A NG
U P PA R AT

PH
RO
MR PHROMRAT
AT
T H EP
OM
Wat Supattanaram PHR
Worawihan Night
Market
Train Station
1.2 miles (2km) Mun

For keys to symbols see back flap

THE GULF OF
THAILAND

Introducing the Gulf

of Thailand 310–315
Eastern Seaboard 316–327
Western Seaboard 328–345
310  the gulf of thailand

Introducing the Gulf of Thailand

thais and foreigners flock to the gulf’s resorts to relax on
the many superb beaches and eat delicious seafood.
Bangkok weekenders have long favored Cha-am and
hua hin, while Pattaya draws lovers of sports and hectic
nightlife. the towns of Chaiya and Phetchaburi contain
architectural and artistic treasures and have the lively
ethnic and cultural mix typical of the Western Seaboard Phetchaburi
and farther south. inland, breathtaking flora and fauna
abound in beautiful, crowd-free national parks. thailand’s
once-idyllic islands have been experiencing a huge Cha-am
surge in popularity. Ko Samui has suffered badly from
uncontrolled development and mass tourism, and Ko
Samet and Ko Chang have also witnessed dramatic changes. Hua Hin

WESTERN
Phetchaburi (see pp332–4) is SEABOARD
an important cultural center (see pp328–345)
with more than 30 wats,
including the splendid Wat
Mahathat, founded in the
14th century. Despite a
Prachuap
history dating back to Khiri Khan
the 11th century and an
attractive old quarter, the
town receives few visitors.
Thap Sakae

Bang
Saphan

Chumphon

Ranong
Ko Tao

Angthong National Marine Park (see pp344–5),

easily accessible from Ko Samui, is a stunning Ko Pha Ngan
group of tiny islands teeming with wildlife.

Ko Samui
Ko Samui
(see pp340–42) is Chaiya
the premier beach
destination of Kanchanadit
the Western Gulf.
Surat Ko Samui
It has suffered from
Thani
overdevelopment Sichon
over the years.

The beautiful crescent-shaped bay at Pattaya

 introducing the gulf of thailand  311

Chachoengsao Aranyaprathet

Wang
Nam Yen
Chon Buri

EASTERN Soi
Dao
Si Racha
SEABOARD
(see pp316–327)

Pattaya
Klaeng
Rayong
Sattahip
Ban Phe Chanthaburi
Ko Samet

Laem Ngop Trat

Ko Chang

Ko Samet (see pp322–3) is a popular

island destination, particularly
Ko with Thais, since it is within
Kut Khlong
Yai comfortable driving distance
from Bangkok.

Pattaya (see p321) attracts an unlikely mix

of families eager to take advantage of the
beaches and excellent sports facilities, and
hedonists equally eager to enjoy the renowned
nightlife of the discos, go-go, and beer bars.

Ko Chang (see pp326–7) is the largest of an

0 kilometers 50 archipelago of 52 islands. It has experienced
considerable development and is now a
0 miles 25
popular mainstream destination.
312  the gulf of thailand

Beach Life and Leisure in the Gulf

thai beach culture dates from the 1920s with the opening
of both the railroad from Bangkok to hua hin and the
first golf club, the Royal hua hin, designed by Scottish
railroad engineer a.o. Robins. hua hin and its modern
neighbor, Cha-am, continue to attract thai weekenders
from Bangkok, whose leisure pursuits center more
around seafood dining than swimming and sunbathing.
foreigners, meanwhile, are attracted to the gulf’s clear
waters and fine sands, and exceptionally good water
sports. the development of resort hotels and golf courses
in the gulf continues to boom, to the alarm of many
environmentalists. however, it is still possible to find
seclusion and simplicity, such as on Ko Chang. Bangpra Golf Course, Pattaya,
is one of many courses within
the forested hills of Chon Buri
province (see p448).

Bangkok
Kiarti Thanee
• Golf Course

Royal
Lakeside •

Samut Songkhram Golf Course

•
Chon
Buri •

Cha-am (see p334) has become

increasingly developed but is still Bangpra
overshadowed by nearby Hua Hin. • Sawang Resort Golf Course Golf Course •

• Phetchaburi

Pattaya
3

2
Cha-am
•
Springfield
Golf Course
• Royal Hua Hin Golf Course
The Sofitel Centara Grand Resort & 1
Villas (see p335), formerly famed Hua Hin
as the Railway Hotel, has been
restored to its original 1920s
colonial-style elegance.

Best Beaches of the Northern Gulf

1 Hua Hin Beach
Thailand’s first beach resort. Good
for the charm of the town and its
seafood restaurants.
2 Cha-am Beach
Popular with Thai weekenders but
quiet during the week. Outstanding
seafood restaurants.
3 Jomtien Beach, Pattaya
A 9-mile (14-km) long beach.
Suitable for families and has
excellent water sports facilities.
4 Glass Sand Beach (Hat Sai
Kaeo), Ko Samet
Longest and liveliest beach on
the island with sand so clean it
squeaks when walked on.
Beautifully clear water, and
good for water sports.
5 White Sand Beach
(Hat Sai Khao), Ko Chang
The best and busiest beach on
an unspoiled island. Fishing,
snorkeling, and boat trips.
 introducing the gulf of thailand  313

Pattaya
Thailand’s biggest, brashest resort attracts single
males and family package tourists in equal numbers. Si Racha
The former are drawn by the neon-lit go-go bars and Laem Chabang
Ko Sichang
a reputation acquired when Pattaya was used for R&R Golf Course
by US servicemen during the Vietnam War. Families,
meanwhile, are attracted by the restaurants, golf
courses, and beaches, particularly Jomtien beach
(south of Pattaya beach), which has the best water
sports facilities in the country. Pattaya

Phoenix Golf
Course
Eastern Star Golf
Course
Sattahip Rayong

0 kilometers 20
Water sports – a major attraction of Pattaya 0 miles 10

Ko Chang
(see pp326–7) is
Thailand’s second-
largest island after
Phuket. This former
backpacker haven has
become increasingly
developed and now
receives more than
700,000 visitors a year.

Diving is possible all

year round in the
Gulf of Thailand
along the east coast,
unlike Ko Samui
and the Andaman
• Rayong coast, which are
more affected
4 • Chanthaburi by monsoons
Ko Samet (see pp30–31).

• Trat

Ko Chang
5

0 kilometers 25

0 miles 25
314  The gulf of Thailand

Thai Gemstones
Since the 15th century, Chanthaburi (“city of the moon”)
has been known to Western travelers for its abundance of
gemstones. as a trading city its history dates back to the
Khmer empire in the 9th century (see pp60–61). along
with Bangkok, Chanthaburi is world-renowned as a gem
center, and for its skilled gem cutters. The gemstones –
mainly rubies and sapphires, with associated deposits of
zircon, spinel, and garnet – are found in alluvial deposits Gem-Mining Areas
Ruby and sapphire mines
either on the surface or up to 20 ft (6 m) underground.
although rubies and sapphires are now overmined around
Chanthaburi, farmers have previously found gemstones
while plowing. over 70 percent of the world’s rubies
have come from Thailand.

This machine
is pumping
gravel and
water that
Examining gemstones in the host may contain
rock helps formulate the correct gemstones
cutting plan. This ensures that the such as rubies.
best yield and shapes are obtained.

Simple grinding wheels

are often used in
small businesses, which
are commonly run
from the owner’s
home. More
sophisticated
operations
Mining for Gemstones
use modern
equipment such In Chanthaburi, gem stores can arrange visits
as diamond saws. to mines. Due to over-mining locally, many of
the stones cut in Chanthaburi come from
mines in Cambodia or Vietnam.

Faceting Gemstones
Thai workers have a worldwide reputation
for their skill and dexterity in faceting
(precisely cutting) gemstones, often using
simple equipment and judging angles by
eye. A modern faceting machine may
use a diamond blade or laser to improve
speed and accuracy. After cutting, the
stones are sorted and graded by size and
quality, with quality being determined by
sparkle, color, brilliance, and the presence
or absence of imperfections.

Modern faceting equipment used to cut gemstones

 introducing the gulf of thailand  315

Most gem buyers

prefer to buy gems
“in the rough,” using
their expertise to
judge the potential
of the uncut material.
Later the buyers
arrange the cutting
of the stones, often in
their own workshops.
Untrained buyers
should beware of
potential scams
(see p464).

Bargaining in gem-mining towns such as

Bo Rai (see p325) is common practice. Since
opinions differ as to the potential of rough
material and the quality of cut stones,
bargaining is hard but good natured.

Designing and making jewelry from gems

demands a delicate touch and a keen eye,
qualities renowned in Thai craftsmen and
women. Most jewelry is made to highlight
the beauty of the gems.

Whole families can often be Pans are often used to scoop

seen searching for gemstones. up gravel that may contain
Children may begin helping gemstones. The gemstones
at a very young age. sink to the bottom of the pan.

Of all the Thai gemstones, deep blue sapphires

and blood-red rubies are highly prized, as are
unusually colored (such as yellow) sapphires.
Sometimes the color is enhanced permanently by
heating the stones to almost 3,650° F (2,000° C).
Star sapphire Star ruby

Green sapphire Zircon Ruby Peridot Yellow sapphire

 The gulf of Thailand  317

EASTERN SEABOARD
The eastern Seaboard of the gulf of Thailand, stretching from
Bangkok to the Cambodian border, is a region of contrasts.
Remarkably picturesque and unspoiled islands lie within easy
reach of brash, over developed resorts; oil refineries and industrial
complexes are scattered along much of the coast, but not far
inland are little-visited and spectacular national parks.

The Eastern Seaboard was a frontier sampled in open-air restaurants

between the Khmer and Sukhothai
empires in the early 15th century.
As Khmer power waned, large numbers
of ethnic Tais settled here and discovered
gem-rich deposits in the lush countryside.
Chanthaburi became a centre for gem
trading and in the 18th and 19th centuries
had to expel first Burmese then French
occupying forces. Numerous Vietnamese
refugees have since settled in the town.
Though still a forested region with
orchards, gem-mining, and fishing
communities, the Eastern Seaboard has
seen dramatic changes in the late 20th
century as the oil and tourist industries
have grown dramatically. However, some
seaside towns have retained their charm,
and in Si Racha excellent seafood can be
overlooking the bay. In contrast to this
are the neon lights of Pattaya, an infamous
destination for US marines on R&R during
the Vietnam War. Despite a seedy image,
it is an excellent center for water sports.
South and east of Rayong there are beautiful
mountainous islands and dense rainforest
sheltering a wealth of fauna and flora.
Trails, waterfalls, and eerie limestone caves
characterize Khao Chamao, Khao Kitchakut,
and Namtok Phlio national parks.
The relaxed island of Ko Samet is a
popular vacation destination, with its
white-sand beaches. Farther south,
Ko Chang has many beautiful beaches
and has become increasingly popular,
attracting hundreds of thousands
of visitors each year.

Temple boys in a shrine cave within the Khao Chamao-Khao Wong National Park
Aerial view of the long, bungalow-lined Hat Sai Khao (“white sand beach”) on Ko Chang
318  the gulf of thailand

Exploring the Eastern Seaboard

Blessed with miles of idyllic beaches and soaring
Nakhon
temperatures, the eastern Seaboard is a sun-lover’s paradise. Ratchasima
Whether you want to unwind and sample the local seafood Prachinburi
or try out water sports, there is much to choose from. Si Maha Phot Kabinburi
Beach resorts range from the chaotic Pattaya, with its
lively nightlife, to lesser-known islands such as Ko
Chang, which is part of a stunning national marine
park. the three other national parks in this region,
characterized by tropical forests, mountains, and Chachoengsao Sanam Chai Khet

waterfalls, are home to a wealth of wildlife. Bang Pakon

g
Bangkok Kh
the main town in the area is Chanthaburi, io Thung Ya Chi
center of the thriving gem-mining industry.

ng
Si
Yo
t
Phanat
Nikhom
Chon Buri
Khao Yai
777m
KHAO KHIEO OPEN ZOO

Khlong Prasai
Bang Phra
Reservoir

KO SICHANG SI RACHA
Key
Motorway
Bang Lamung KHAO CHAMAO-KHAO WONG
Major road Naklua
NATIONAL PARK
Minor road PATTAYA Wang Chang
Ra
yong

Scenic route
Main railway Klaeng
International border Ban Chang
Summit
RAYONG
Sattahip Ban Phe
Ko Man
Ko Saket Klang

KO SAMET Ko Man
Nok

Sights at a Glance
1 Khao Khieo Open Zoo
2 Si Racha
3 Ko Sichang
4 Pattaya
5 Rayong
6 Ko Samet
7 Khao Chamao-Khao Wong
National Park
8 Wat Khao Sukim
9 Khao Kitchakut National Park
0 Chanthaburi
q Namtok Phlio National Park
w Bo Rai
e Ko Chang
r Trat

Relaxing on Ko Samet’s beautiful white beaches t Khlong Yai

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 eastern seaboard  319

Getting Around
The Eastern Seaboard’s transport system is comprehensive on the
mainland and connects to the main islands. A twice daily train
service runs from Hua Lamphong Station in Bangkok to Si Racha and
Pattaya. Chon Buri and Sattahip are served by domestic airports.
Buses are the easiest way to get around the Eastern Seaboard: there
is a regular service from Bangkok’s Eastern Bus Terminal to the main
towns. To visit places not on bus routes, charter a songthaew from a
local bus station. Transportation in the mainland towns is provided
by songthaews, samlors (three-wheeled bicycles), and tuk-tuks.
Several ferries leave Ban Phe each day for Ko Samet. On the island,
songthaews service the main beaches, and fishing boats can
Aranyaprathet
La m

be hired to surrounding islands. Ko Chang and Ko Mak are

reached by ferry from Laem Ngop. Infrastructure on these
Pracbu n B u r

islands is poor, though motorcycles and songthaews can

be hired to get around the rough roads.
Wang Nam Yen
i

Soi Dao

Khao Soi Dao

Wildlife Sanctuary
Nam Pong Nam Ron
Khun
KHAO KITCHAKUT
NATIONAL PARK

WAT KHAO
SUKIM
The opulent interior of the main hall of Wat Khao Sukim
Tha CHANTHABURI
Mai BO RAI
NAM TOK PHLIO

Khlung

Khao
Saming 0 kilometers 25

0 miles 15
TRAT
Laem Ngop

Laem
Sok
KO CHANG

Ko Wai
Ko Kradat
Ko Mak
Ko Rang

Ko Kut KHLONG YAI

Hat Lek

Bungalows on palm-fringed Ko Chang

For keys to symbols see back flap
320  THE GULF OF THAILAND

1 Khao Khieo
Open Zoo

Off Route 344, 6 miles (10 km) SE of
Chon Buri, Chon Buri province.
Tel 0-3831-8444. ∑ kkopenzoo.com
£ @ Chon Buri, then samlor.
Open 8am–6pm daily. &

This open zoo has over 50

species of birds and animals,
including deer, zebras, and
tigers. The animals inhabit
spacious, semifree enclosures,
and the birds are kept in a
large aviary. The zoo is in a
peaceful, hilly setting amid
woodland scenery and is best
reached by car.
For bird enthusiasts, 12 miles
(20 km) south of Khao Khieo is
the beautiful wild marshland of
Bang Phra Reservoir, where the
brown-spotted whimbrel can
be seen in winter.

2 Si Racha Wat Atsadang, Rama V’s meditation chamber on Ko Sichang


Chon Buri province. * 20,000. £
@ g n TAT, Pattaya (0-3842-7667).
( daily.
Famed for its seafood and its
spicy Si Racha sauce (sauce phrik
si racha) – Thailand’s answer to
Tabasco – this small seaside
town is the launching point for
trips to Ko Sichang. Running off
busy Jermjompol Road, Si
Racha’s main waterfront street,
are several tentacle-like piers.
At the end of the piers are
breezy, open-air restaurants
ideal for sampling the local
delicacies: oysters (hoi nang
Motorcycle taxis provide the transport on Si Racha and Ko Sichang
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
rom) or mussels (hoi thot)
dipped in Si Racha sauce.
On a rocky promontory, which
is also an occasional ferry pier,
is Ko Loi, a Thai-Chinese
Buddhist temple.
Just 6 miles (10 km) south
of town is the Si Racha Tiger
Zoo, with probably the
world’s largest collection of
these big cats.
The streets of Si Racha
(and Ko Sichang) resonate
to the sound of spluttering
motorcycle taxis. They are
unique to the area – their
sidecars are positioned at
the rear.
3 Ko Sichang

Chon Buri province. * 4,600.
g from Si Racha. n TAT, Pattaya
(0-3842-7667 or 0-3842-8750).
A former haunt of King
Chulalongkorn (Rama V), this
small island, with a rugged
coastline, once functioned as
the customs checkpoint for
Bangkok-bound ships. Now it is
a relatively quiet place with
some architectural ruins and a
handful of guesthouses catering
to visitors who want to avoid
the bustle and commercialism
of the resorts.
There is only one ramshackle
fishing village, Tha Bon, on
the eastern side of the island.
Just north of it is the Chinese
Temple, with colorfully
decorated shrine caves.
On the west coast of the
island are the beaches of
Hat Tham Pang and Hat
Tham. On the southern side,
sprawling over a hillside, are the
overgrown ruins of Rama V’s
Summer Palace. The palace
was built in the 1890s but
abandoned after a fleeting
 EASTERN SEABOARD  321

occupation by the French in

1893. In 1901 it was moved
and reconstructed as Vimanmek
Mansion at Dusit Park in
Bangkok (see pp106–9). One part
of the palace complex that
remains intact is the circular
Wat Atsadang at the top of the
hill. Crowned by a crumbling
chedi, this was once a
meditation chamber used by
King Chulalongkorn.
The island also has a well-
known temple, Wat Tham
Yai Prik. Its gardens provide
crops for the locals, and it has
large underground rainwater
tanks to meet the islanders’
needs, since there is no other
water source.
The deserted rocky hilltop
offers pleasant walks and fine
views. It is home to nesting
seabirds and the yellow squirrel,
which is endemic here.
Boats to Ko Sichang take 40
minutes from Si Racha’s pier.
4 Pattaya

Chon Buri province. * 150,000.
£ @ g n TAT, 609 Mu 10 Phra
Tamnak Rd, Pattaya (0-3842-7667).
( daily. _ Pattaya Festival (Apr).
Pattaya’s faded beauty is now
difficult to discern. The once-
idyllic beaches attracted visitors
as early as the 1950s and later
became a destination for US
troops on R&R during the
Vietnam War. Now dubbed
“Patpong by the Sea” (see p120),
the town has become one of
Thailand’s infamous red-light
districts, with a menagerie of
A jet ski sitting ready for use on one of
Pattaya’s beaches
Picnicking Thais relaxing at Suan Son, a beach park near Rayong
go-go bars and glitzy
transvestite shows.
Despite its seedy image,
Pattaya still attracts many
families, who come for the
good, cheap accommodations,
extensive beaches (though the
sea is often polluted), excellent
restaurants, and the best water
sports facilities in Thailand.
Pattaya consists of three bays. known as a starting point
At its center is the 2-mile (3-km) for trips to the nearby island
long Pattaya beach. Pattaya
Beach Road is packed with fast-
food restaurants and souvenir
shops. Walking Street, or “the
strip,” is where the sex industry
plies its trade. North Pattaya
Road, on the other hand, is
more sedate, with open-air
drinking spots
called bar beers.
Many tourists
prefer the more
family-oriented Parrot fish, a common sight for divers Saket, Ko Man
9-mile (14-km) in Pattaya’s waters
long Jomtien
beach, around the southern
headland of Pattaya. This is also
the best place for water sports,
as the sea here is cleaner.
Scores of companies offer
water- and jet-skiing,
windsurfing, sailing, parasailing,
game-fishing, and scuba diving.
Other activities include golf,
target shooting, horseback
riding, and tennis.
Quieter Naklua bay, to the
north of Pattaya beach, has a
fishing village that, despite
tourism, has kept its charm.
The 2006 opening of
Suvarnabhumi Airport,
between Bangkok and
Pattaya, sparked a building
boom that led to the
construction of several of
Thailand’s tallest skyscrapers.
5 Rayong

Rayong province. * 95,000. @
g n TAT, 153/4 Sukhumvit Rd, Mu
12, Rayong (0-3865-5420). ( daily.
_ Fruit Fair (May).
Rayong is a busy and
prosperous fishing town best
of Ko Samet.
The main attractions lie
outside the town. For good
beaches, head 16 miles (25 km)
southeast to Ban Phe. A 12-mile
(20-km) coast road winds along
from here to Laem Mae Phim.
From Ban Phe there are
boats to Ko Samet
(see pp322–3).
Ferries also run
to nearby Ko
Nok and Ko Man
Klang – the
latter two islands are part of the
Laem Ya-Mu Ko Samet National
Park. The park authorities have
managed to limit excessive
development here, although
jet-skiing is gradually eroding
the coral reef.
Three miles (5 km) past Ban
Phe is the beach park of Suan
Son (“pine park”). This has
crystal-white sand beaches
and is a popular picnic area
for Thais. It offers seafood
snacks and homegrown water
sports such as wave riding on
inner tubes.
Rayong province is
known for its succulent fruit,
particularly the pineapple and
durian (see p137), and its nam
pla (fish sauce) and nam phrik
kapi (shrimp paste).
322  THE GULF OF THAILAND

Ban Phe
6 Ko Samet Ban Phe

Rayong province. * 1,464. g from
Ban Phe (Rayong) to Ao Wong Duan Na Dan •
and Ao Phrao. n TAT, Rayong
KO SAMET
(0-3865-5420). ( daily.
Ao Phrao •
Ko Samet, blessed as it is with
• Hat Sai Kaeo
clear blue waters and crystalline Mermaid Statue
sand, is popular with foreigners •
and Thai weekenders. Because
it is only 4 miles (6 km) long
and 2 miles (3 km) wide, most • Ao Phai Ban Phe
of the island is accessible on
foot. The interior’s dense jungle,
• Ao Nuan
home to the usual geckos and
hornbills, is riddled with trails.
Despite attaining national
park status in 1981, in common • Ao Cho
with all Thai resorts and
islands, Ko Samet has suffered • Ao Wong Duan
from development and has
experienced a huge increase in
high-quality accommodation.
The small fishing town of • Ao Thian
Na Dan, which links Ko Samet
to Ban Phe on the mainland,
was an ancient checkpoint for
Chinese junks. Legend has it
• Ao Wai
that its calm, sheltered waters
were once the hunting ground
of pirates. Several beaches on
Ko Samet offer one-way boat
trips back to Ban Phe.
The kite-shaped island’s Key
J • Ao Kui Na Nok
finest beaches are on the east Ao Kui J Minor road
coast. With its clear shallow Na Nai Trail
waters, Hat Sai Kaeo (“glass •
sand beach”) is the longest and • Cape Khut
liveliest beach. Water sports on Ao Karang
the beach include windsurfing. 0 kilometers 1
• Ao Toei
Boat trips around Ko Samet and 0 miles 1
snorkeling day trips to nearby Ko Chan
islands leave from here.
Heading southward along
the east coast are the equally
popular Ao Phai and Ao
Nuan. Near the first is a wind-
battered statue of the prince
and the mermaid in Phra
Aphaimani, a poem by
Sunthorn Phu, Thailand’s
most famous poet.
Farther south, the bays
are less crowded, with the
exception of the wide beach
at Ao Wong Duan (“moon bay”),
which can get quite busy.
At the narrow isthmus of Ao
Kui, solitude and beauty are
guaranteed. It is merely a short
stroll between sunrise and
Sunset walk along the coast of picturesque Ko Samet sunset vistas of Ao Kui Na Nok
For keys to symbols see back flap

and Ao Kui Na Nai. The island’s
best coral is found just off the
southern tip.
The only area to have
undergone development on
the largely inaccessible west
coast is Ao Phrao (“coconut
bay”). Due to its isolation, the
beach here doesn’t receive as
many overnight visitors as
those on the east coast.
In July 2013 the island was hit
by a devastating oil spill caused
by a broken pipeline. A clean-up
operation has now restored the
beaches to their former glory.
Upscale bungalows on peaceful Ao Phrao,
Ko Samet
7 Khao Chamao-
Khao Wong
National Park

Rayong province. Park HQ 11 miles
(17 km) N of Hwy 3 at Klaeng. n TAT,
Rayong (0-3865-5420). Forestry Dept,
Bangkok (0-2562-0760 or Park HQ
0-3889-4378). Bungalow bookings:
∑ dnp.go.th @ Rayong or
Chanthaburi, then songthaew. &
∑ tat-rayong.com
The two mountains in this
national park, Khao Wong and
Khao Chamao, loom above
the farming lowlands of the
Eastern Seaboard.
Elephants and Asiatic black
bears find refuge in the park’s
tropical, broadleaved, evergreen
forests, away from farmers and
hunters. Also resident is the tor
soro carp. Folklore claims that
the name of Chamao mountain,
which means “to get drunk,”
EASTERN SEABOARD  323
Wat Khao Sukim’s cable car, which transports visitors up to the temple
derives from the giddy feeling
induced by eating the carp.
8 Wat Khao Sukim
Park highlights include the 
pools of the Khao Chamao
waterfall and the 80 or so Khao Bai Si, Tha-Mai district, 13 miles
(20 km) N of Chanthaburi, off route
Khao Wong caves. Tham Pet
3322. n TAT, Rayong (0-3865-5420).
(“diamond cave”) and Tham @ Chanthaburi, then songthaew.
Lakhon (“theater cave”), situated
2 miles (4 km) southeast of the This huge, pale orange wat is
park headquarters, are the most perched on the side of Sukim
spectacular of these limestone mountain. The temple, the
caverns. The park’s most home of Luang Pho Somchai,
impressive waterfall is Klong one of Thailand’s most popular
Pla-Gang, a 3 mile (5 km) trek meditation masters, is reached
from park headquarters via a cable car or the naga-lined
There are few developed staircase. Inside are a number
trails in the park. The best of tables inlaid with mother-of-
route climbs alongside the pearl, while exhibits housed
cascading Khao Chamao in a museum include an
waterfall and ends near the ostentatious display of jewelry
top of the falls at Chong Kaep. and a collection of Bencharong,
From the park’s northwest Khmer, and Ban Chiang pottery.
station former elephant trails They show the surprising
lead through the fertile and wealth that a revered monk can
wildlife-rich forest of the accumulate from donations by
stunning Khlong Phlu valley. merit-makers.
The Poetry of Sunthorn Phu
Sunthorn Phu (1786–1855) is Thailand’s most respected poet.
His long, lyrical travel verses, often with a moral lesson, made him
the favorite poet of kings Rama II and Rama III. The epic Phra
Aphaimani, Sunthorn Phu’s first poem, was inspired by the
surroundings of Ko Samet (then called Ko Kaew Pisadan),
where he settled. The poem tells the story of a prince, Phra
Aphaimani, exiled to an underwater kingdom
ruled by a giantess, who is in love with him.
Helped by a mermaid, the prince escapes by
fleeing to Ko Samet. The giantess follows,
but is defeated when the prince plays
his magic flute, sending her to sleep.
The prince is subsequently betrothed
to a beautiful princess.
Statue on Ko Samet
depicting characters in
Phra Aphaimani
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
324  the gulf of thailand
9 Khao Kitchakut
National Park

Chanthaburi province. Park HQ off
Hwy 3249, 15 miles (24 km) NE of
Chanthaburi. n Park HQ (0-3945-
2074). @ Chanthaburi, then
songthaew. &
Covering an area of just
23 sq miles (59 sq km), this is one They are vital to the economy
of Thailand’s smallest
national parks. It
encompasses Khao
Kitchakut, a granite
mountain just over
3,300 ft (1,000 m) high.
The park’s best known
site, the 13-tier
Krathin waterfall, is Logo of the Thai
located near park
headquarters. From
here a relatively easy trail
can be taken to the top.
More ambitious hikers and
large numbers of pilgrims make
the arduous four-hour climb to
the summit of the impressive
Phrabat mountain. They come
to see two sights: an image of
the Buddha’s Footprint, which
is etched here in granite, and a
A refreshing shower at the base of Krathin waterfall, Khao Kitchakut
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
strange collection of natural
rock formations shaped like an
elephant, a large turtle, a pagoda,
and a monk’s bowl.
Khao Kitchakut is near the
much larger, but less visited,
Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary
(290 sq miles, 745 sq km). Both
protected areas enclose some
of the last surviving tracts of a
once-great lowland forest.
of the region as their
slopes collect water
for orchards. They also
provide protection for
many endangered
species, including sun
bears, spot-bellied eagle
owls, silver pheasants,
spiny-breasted giant
national parks frogs, binturongs (bear
cats), and elephants.
The upland forests of Khao Soi
Dao provide a habitat for the
tree-dwelling pileated gibbon.
O Khao Soi Dao Wildlife
Sanctuary
Off Hwy 317, 16 miles (25 km) NW of
Chanthaburi . n TAT, Rayong
(0-3865-5420). @ Chanthaburi, then
songthaew. &
Shrine inside the Church of the Immaculate
Conception, Chanthaburi
0 Chanthaburi

Chanthaburi province. * 50,000. @
n TAT, Rayong (0-3865-5420). (
daily. _ Fruit Festival (May/Jun).
Surrounded by verdant chili
and rubber plantations, this
prosperous and friendly town
is arguably Thailand’s most
charming settlement. Known as
a center for gem trading (see
pp314–15) since the 15th century,
Chanthaburi has attracted a wide
ethnic mix. Vietnamese refugees
form the largest group. They
came in three waves: in the 19th
century, fleeing the anti-Catholic
persecutions of Cochin China; in
the early 20th century, escaping
French colonial rule; and after the
1975 victory in South Vietnam by
North Vietnamese Communists.
The Vietnamese quarter, running
parallel to the river on Rim Nam
Road, is lined with lattice-work
wooden shop-houses.
The monarch most revered in
the town today is King Taksin.
In the 18th century he expelled
the Burmese from the town,
their last Thai stronghold, thus
reuniting Thailand. Two
monuments celebrate Taksin
and his famous victory: San
Somdej Prachao Taksin on Tha
Luang Road is a huge statue in
the shape of Taksin’s hat. Taksin
Park sports a dynamic bronze
statue of the king in battle as
seen on the 20-baht note.
On the bank of the Chan-
thaburi River is the Church of
the Immaculate Conception, a
French-style Catholic cathedral
built on the site of an 18th-
century missionary chapel.
 eastern seaboard  325

Maytime Fruit Festivals

Held in three neighboring provinces – Rayong, Chanthaburi and Trat –
this annual fruit festival, lasting for a few days in either May or June
(whenever the harvest is ripe), is a colorful, celebratory affair. These
provinces are known for their flavorsome rambutan, durian, and
mangosteen, which all come into season during May. Stalls selling
the produce of local orchards are set up on the main streets of each
town. Parades of floral-and-fruit floats are held along with gaudy
beauty pageants, which are a ubiquitous element of every provincial
Thai festival. Contests for the ripest durian or most beautifully
shaped fruit, among other titles, are a highlight of the year for local
farmers and a great spectacle for tourists. Visitors can also see
cultural shows and excellent displays of local handicrafts. In
Chanthaburi there are many stalls selling one of the specialties
of the province: intricately woven straw mats. Fruit festival float, Chanthaburi

It is the largest cathedral in the richest rainforest. It is also a w Bo Rai

country and a legacy of French
occupation. The French held
Chanthaburi hostage from 1893 mammals, including the Asiatic
to 1904 as a guarantee that
Thailand would
relinquish her
hold on Lao and
Cambodian land.
To keep the country
intact, King
Chulalongkorn
reluctantly
agreed to surrender
the territories.
The Gem Quarter
(talat phloi), at the
intersection of Si
Chan and Thetsaban
4 roads, attracts Statue of King Taksin, who drowned at Bang
gem traders from
all over the world.
On weekends a rainbow array
of gemstones from Burma,
Cambodia, and the rich mines
of Chanthaburi province
are traded at street stalls.
However, most of the best
quality stones are dispatched
directly to Bangkok.
haven for wildlife, with over
156 species of birds and 32 of
black bear, tiger, leopard, barking
deer, and macaque.
The park’s other
attractions are its
spectacular waterfalls –
the most impressive
being Phlio waterfall.
Facing this are two
chedis: the Alongkon
chedi and a 10-ft
(3-m) high pyramid-
shaped chedi, built by
King Chulalongkorn
in honor of one of his
queens, Sunantha,
Chanthaburi Pa-in (see p185) in
1876. The region was
much loved by Chulalongkorn.
A harder hike is required to
reach the 66-ft (20-m) roaring
Trok Nong falls and the forest-
encircled Klang waterfall. The
entrance road to the park is
lined with souvenir shops.

Trat province. * 25,000. @ n TAT,
Trat (0-3959-7259-60). ( daily.
This small town used to be
the thriving center of the
Eastern Seaboard’s gem
trade. The surrounding mines,
once renowned for the
quality of their rubies (tab tim),
have almost dried up, so
today the Bo Rai gem trade is
small. Only one morning
market of any significance,
the Khlong Yaw market,
remains. The market has a
reverse system of buying
and selling – buyers sit at
makeshift tables and
vendors stroll around
displaying their wares.
Sadly, gem mining has
destroyed large areas of
Trat province, exposing the
topsoil and leaving acres
of despoiled land in rusty-
orange mud.

q Namtok Phlio
National Park

Chanthaburi province. Park HQ
off Hwy 3, 9 miles (14 km) SE of
Chanthaburi. n TAT, Rayong (0-3865-
5420); Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760 or
∑ dnp.go.th for bungalow
bookings). @ Chanthaburi, then
songthaew. &

Immensely popular with Thais,

this 52-sq mile (135-sq km) park
contains some of Thailand’s Customer carefully inspecting a vendor’s gems in Bo Rai market
326  the gulf of thailand
Bungalows amid coconut trees along
Khlong Phrao, Ko Chang
e Ko Chang

Trat province. * 5,800. g from
Laem Ngop. n TAT, Trat (0-3959-
7259-60).
Mountainous Ko Chang is the
largest of the 50 or so islands
that form the Ko Chang
National Marine Park, which
covers an area of 250 sq miles
(650 sq km), two-thirds of which
is ocean. Mangroves, cliffs, and
clear waters make this one of
Thailand’s most scenic islands
and the ideal place for a varied
holiday. Increased development
means that Ko Chang now has
no shortage of quality hotels,
resorts, and spas.
Since Thai-Chinese
agricultural families first settled
on Ko Chang in the mid-
19th century, most of the island’s
wildlife has been destroyed,
although some small mammals,
including the barking deer,
View of Hat Khlong Phrao, one of the best beaches on Ko Chang
For keys to symbols see back flap
Laem Ngop
Laem Ngop
Ban Khlong Son
•
• Hat Sai Khao
Khlong Phlu
waterfall •
• Ban Khlong Phrao
•
Hat Khlong
Phrao
Ko Chang
Ban Sa Lak Phet •
Ao Bang Bao •
Ko Khlum
Key
Minor road
stump-tailed macaque, and
small Indian civet, remain.
Also resident are some 75 bird
species, and reptiles and
amphibians such as monitor
lizards, pythons, king
cobras, and the endemic Ko
Chang frog.
Inland exploration is difficult
because of the rugged terrain.
The coast road, which was
begun in the early 1990s, is the
first construction to improve
accessibility on the island. Ko
Chang’s best beaches are on
the west coast, especially along
Ao Sai Khao, where the shell-
•
Dan Mai
J
0 kilometers 5
0 miles 5
Ao Sa Lak Phet •
Ko Mai
Si Yai
Ko Laoya Ko Ngam
Ko Wai
Ko Pai Dong
Ko Kut, Ko Rang,
Ko Mak, Ko Kradat
sprinkled, bungalow-lined Hat
Sai Khao (“white sand beach”),
the island’s longest and busiest
beach, is located. An information
center on the beach arranges
boat trips, fishing, and
snorkeling. Most guesthouses
also offer fishing, snorkeling,
and motorcycle rental. Hat
Khlong Phrao, south of here,
is more attractive and quieter.
Nearby is a fishing village,
Ban Khlong Phrao. Apart from
tourism, which is growing
rapidly, fishing is also important.
The beaches in the south are
still relatively isolated. Of these,
the beach at the sheltered bay
of Ao Bang Bao, in the
southwest corner, is particularly
beautiful. East of here is a long
beach encircling a bay, Ao Sa
Lak Phet, where there are a few
fishing villages and bungalows.
The wrecks of two Thai Navy
ships can be visited off the
coast here.
Of the island’s many
waterfalls, two are worth the
hike. On the east coast, near the
park headquarters, is the three-
tiered Than Mayom waterfall,
which has good views of the

island. The other is Khlong
Phlu waterfall, along Khlong
Phrao on the west coast.
The uppermost level, accessible Trat province. * 72,000. @ g n
by a gentle 2-mile (3-km) hike,
has a freshwater pool.
For snorkelers, divers, and
day-trippers there are stunning
smaller islands off the coast of
Ko Chang, with a good variety
of hard and soft corals and a
proliferation of giant clams.
Ko Kut, the second largest
island within the group, falls
outside the park boundaries.
It has excellent beaches
and breathtaking
waterfalls.
The rocky, coral-
lined coast of Ko Wai,
south of Ko Chang,
is popular for fishing.
Around Ko Rang,
farther south, is a
cluster of rocky
coral islets.
Ko Mak, a
predominantly flat
island, is covered
mainly in coconut
plantations. It has a Barrel sponge, seen off
secluded beach on
the northwest bay, a
fishing village, and good
coral reefs.
Northeast of Ko Mak is the
coconut-fringed Ko Kradat, a
tiny island with some of the
prettiest beaches in the island
cluster. The island’s name
comes from the kradat tree,
which is used to make paper.
Sandflies and mosquitoes are
a problem on the islands, so be
sure to take precautions and
invest in insect repellent.
Fishing trawlers, harbored on Ko Chang, which provide a significant source of income on the island
eastern seaboard  327
r Trat

TAT, Trat (0-3959-7259-60). ( daily.
_ Rakham Fruit Fair (May–Jun).
This provincial capital is a small
but busy commercial town.
Most tourists pass through Trat
only en route to Ko Chang.
However, the town’s popularity
is likely to increase in line with
that of the archipelago. Trat
has several attractions,
including its markets, most of
which are
centered around Durian vendor at one of Trat’s
Tait Mai and bustling markets
Sukhumvit roads.
The covered
market on t Khlong Yai
Sukhumvit Road 
has a good
selection of food Trat province. * 15,000. n TAT, Trat
and drink stalls. (0-3959-7259-60). ( daily.
Also of interest
are the gem- This picturesque seaside town
mining villages near the Cambodian border
around Trat, such sports a handful of bustling
as Bo Rai, where markets and stalls selling deli-
Ko Chang rubies are mined cious noodles with seafood.
(see pp314–15). The road from Khlong Yai to
Local guesthouses can arrange the border checkpoint of Hat
trips. Located about 1 mile Lek passes through spectacular
(2 km) southwest of Trat is scenery, with mountains on
Wat Bupharam (“flower one side and the sea on the
temple”), set in pleasant other. Tourists can now enter
grounds with large, shady Cambodia at Hat Lek. A visa on
trees. Some of the original arrival is available with a valid
buildings within the temple passport, recent photo, and
complex, including the US$30. However, border guards
wihan, the bell tower, and the often demand higher fees, so it
monks’ residences, or kutis, is wise to apply for a visa in
date from the late Ayutthaya advance at Bangkok’s
period (see pp64–5). Cambodian Embassy.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 THE GULF OF THAILAND  329

WESTERN SEABOARD
The rolling landscape of the Western Seaboard extends some 370
miles (600 km) from Bangkok to Surat Thani. Its major attraction is
the islands that make up the beautiful Ko Samui archipelago, such as
Ko Pha Ngan, Ko Tao, and the Angthong National Marine Park.
Yet visitors should not ignore the many charms of the mainland –
lively towns, fine beaches, and national parks.

Miles of remote sandy beaches dominate beach resort. The many golf courses
long stretches of the Western Seaboard, within easy reach of these two tourist
which unites the Buddhist heartland of centers make this area arguably the
the nation with the maritime, Muslim- country’s premier golf destination.
influenced South. Temples reflecting Farther south, the stunning islands of
pre-Thai influences, simple fishing the Ko Samui archipelago offer excellent
villages, verdant fruit orchards, and sand- diving and sunbathing, and a well-
rimmed resorts characterize this region. developed tourist infrastructure.
The Tenasserim Mountains, rising to Trekkers and bird-watchers will be
4,350 ft (1,329 m), form a spine down the drawn to Khao Sam Roi Yot and Kaeng
peninsula. They absorb much of the rain Krachan national parks, where migratory
that falls during the southwest monsoon, birds rest and feed in the salt marshes
keeping the coastal strip relatively dry. from August to April.
However, this coastal region is still a fertile Among the most interesting of the
growing area, famed for its pineapples, towns along the Western Seaboard is
corn, sugar cane, “lady-finger” bananas, Phetchaburi, with its crumbling
asparagus, and mangosteens. architectural remnants of the Khmer,
Beaches easily reached from the capital Mon, Ayutthaya, and Rattanakosin epochs.
cater primarily to weekenders from Farther to the south, Chaiya still contains
Bangkok. Particularly popular are the archaeological remains that reveal its
casuarina-lined waterfronts of Cha-am important role in the Srivijaya Empire
and Hua Hin. The latter was Thailand’s first (see pp350–51).

Fishing boats in the bay of the peaceful town of Prachuap Khiri Khan
Tham Khao Luang cave temple, Phetchaburi
330  THE GULF OF THAILAND

Exploring the Western Seaboard

This long, narrow coastal strip, backed by mountains along the Burmese
border, stretches from the cultural center of Phetchaburi to the
commercial town of Surat Thani. In the north is one of Thailand’s oldest
beach resorts, Hua Hin, while farther north still is the modern resort of
Cha-am. The area also offers natural beauty inland in the huge, hilly
Kaeng Krachan National Park and the limestone outcrops of the coastal
Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. The islands of the stunning Ko Samui
archipelago are the major attractions farther south. Ko Samui itself is
the main resort island, while Ko Tao and Ko Pha Ngan are popular with
backpackers. For spectacular, unspoiled island scenery, it is hard to
beat the beautiful Angthong National Marine Park.

Sights at a Glance
1 Phetchaburi pp332–4
2 Kaeng Krachan National Park
3 Cha-am
4 Mareukathayawan Palace
5 Hua Hin
6 Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park
7 Prachuap Khiri Khan
8 Chumphon
9 Chaiya
0 Surat Thani
q Ko Samui pp340–42
w Ko Pha Ngan
e Angthong National Marine Park
r Ko Tao Towering stacks of TV antennas on the houses along the Phet River in
the center of Phetchaburi

Getting There
Most of the attractions in the region are easily
accessible from the main highways 4 and 41.
The major towns are linked to each other and
Bangkok by bus services and trains (Bangkok to
Hua Hin is 3–4 hours by bus or train; Bangkok to
Surat Thani is 11 hours by bus, 11–13 hours by
train). Ko Samui, Surat Thani, Prachuap Khiri Khan,
and Hua Hin have domestic airports. There are
several flights a day between Bangkok and Hua Hin
and Ko Samui. Songthaews and bicycle rickshaws can
be hired for trips to local sights. Cha-am, Hua Hin, and
Ko Samui have car rental facilities. Surat Thani and
Don Sak are the main gateways to the Ko Samui
archipelago. Ko Tao is also accessible via Chumphon.
The train/bus/ferry journey from Bangkok to Ko
Samui takes 16 hours.

Lapping up the sun on Ko Samui’s Chaweng beach

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 WESTERN SEABOARD  331

Bangkok

PHETCHABURI
KAE
N AT

NG
Kaeng Krachan
ION

Reservoir
KR
AL

CHA-AM
AC R K
PA

MAREUKATHAYAWAN PALACE
HA
N

HUA HIN

Pran Buri KHAO SAM ROI YOT

Dam
NATIONAL PARK Key
Tham Phraya
Nakhon Major road
Minor road
Scenic route

PRACHUAP Railway
KHIRI KHAN International border

Thap Sakae

Bang Saphan

Nong Ai Kaew

CHUMPHON
Ko Samet
Ko Mattra

KO TAO
Ranong Lang Suan

Phuket
Limestone outcrops at Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park
KO PHA NGAN
ANGTHONG NATIONAL
MARINE PARK
KO SAMUI
CHAIYA
Don Sak
0 kilometers 50
Kanchanadit
0 miles 25
SURAT THANI

Sichon

Nakhon Si
Thammarat
Krabi Thung Song

For keys to symbols see back flap

332  THE GULF OF THAILAND

1 Street-by-Street: Phetchaburi

Settled since at least the 11th century, Phetchaburi
(often spelled Phetburi) is one of Thailand’s oldest
towns. It has long been an important trading and
cultural center, and Mon, Khmer, and Ayutthayan
influences can be seen in its 30 temples. During the
19th century it became a favorite royal retreat, and
King Mongkut built a summer house here on a hill,
Khao Wang, west of the center. This is now part of the
To Phra
Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park (see p334). Other Nakhon Khiri Phra Song Road
major sights are the 17th-century Wat Yai Suwannaram, Historical Park Several wats are located
the five Khmer prangs of Wat Kamphaeng Laeng, and on this busy road.
an old quarter that has retained much of its original
charm. Despite such attractions, accommodation is
scant. Most visitors come on day trips from Bangkok,
76 miles (123 km) away.

N
O
K

Wat Mahathat
The five white Khmer-style
prangs of this much-restored
14th-century temple dominate
the town’s central skyline.
The figures of angels and gods
decorate the roofs of the main
wihan and bot.

To Wat Tho

0 meters 75
Wooden Shop-Houses
0 yards 75 Concrete may have replaced
wood in many Thai towns,
but attractive wooden
buildings, many lining the
riverbank, are still a feature
of Phetchaburi.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 WESTERN SEABOARD  333

. Phra Nakhon Khiri VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Historical Park
As an avid astronomer,
King Mongkut had
this observatory
conveniently built next
to his hilltop summer
palace; this is now a
museum (see p334).
The magnificently
landscaped and
forested surrounding
park offers extensive
views of Phetchaburi.
Practical Information
Tel 0-3247-1005/6.
Phetchaburi province. * 80,000.
n TAT, Cha-am ( daily.
_ Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair (8 days
in early Feb).
Transport
£ Rot Fai Rd, 1 mile (1.5 km) NW
of town. @ Chisa-in Rd, near
Chomrut Bridge.

To Wat Chisa-in

M
SE
KA
EN
O
C

N
H

M
A
IS

D
A
-I
N

. Wat Yai Suwannaram

Built during the Ayutthaya period
ET (see pp64–5), the temple is
PO

PH
notable for the lovely original
NG

EN murals of Hindu gods in the bot.

SU

RO
RI

A scripture library stands on

JE
YA

IT
stilts in the middle of a large
RO

N pond on the grounds.

A
PH
AD

To Wat Yai
Suwannaram
G
N
O
PH

W
YA Key
R

A
AT
A

M
SO

Suggested route
Market
N
G

To Wat Kamphaeng
Laeng

. Wat Kamphaeng Laeng

This is one of the few surviving Khmer
shrines in Thailand outside the Northeast.
The five laterite prangs of the temple,
in varying states of disrepair, are typically
Khmer in design and may date from the
12th century. Originally a Hindu temple,
it was later adapted for Buddhist use.
334  THE GULF OF THAILAND
Phra Nakhon Khiri, Rama IV’s ambitious 19th-century palace complex
Exploring Phetchaburi’s
Outer Sights
Phetchaburi is divided by the
Phet River, which weaves its
way past this provincial capital’s
30 historic temples. Many,
especially the Ayutthayan wats,
are excellently preserved, their
pinnacles dominating the
skyline. In the distance, to the
west, three large hills loom
imperiously over the city.
Phra Nakhon Khiri, locally
referred to as Khao Wang,
translates as the “celestial city
of the mountain.” This palace
complex, perched on top of
302-ft (92-m) Maha Samana hill,
was commissioned by King
Mongkut (Rama IV) as a
summer house in the 1850s.
Extravagant use of European,
Chinese, and Japanese
architectural styles make this a
bold study in Thai and foreign
architecture. Set among
natural woods, rocks, and
caverns, it also offers fine
vistas of Phetchaburi town
and panoramic views of
the province.
The complex extends over
three peaks. The Royal Palace
and the Ho Chatchawan
Wiangchai, an observatory
tower (Rama IV was an
accomplished amateur
astronomer), are both perched
on the west rise; the Phra That
Chomphet, a white chedi
erected by Rama V, stands on
the central rise; and Wat Maha
Samanaram, containing some
fine murals, takes up the east
rise. In 1988 the complex
was made a Historical Park.
A cable car takes visitors up
the steep ascent to the
palace buildings.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
A short distance north of town
is Tham Khao Luang, a cave
containing stalactites, chedis,
and Buddha images. To the right
of the cave’s mouth lies Wat
Bun Thawi, notable for its
intricately carved wooden
door panels.
E Phra Nakhon Khiri
Khao Wang, Phetchaburi.
Tel 0-3242-5600. Open daily. &
} Tham Khao Luang
Hwy 3173, 2 miles (3 km) N of
Phetchaburi. Open daily.
& donation.
2 Kaeng Krachan
National Park

Phetchaburi province. Park HQ off
Hwy 3175, 37 miles (60 km) S of
Phetchaburi. n TAT (0-3247-1005/6);
Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760 or
∑ dnp.go.th for bungalow
bookings). £ @ Phetchaburi then
songthaew. &
Thailand’s largest national park
is home to at least 40 species of
large mammal, such as tiger,
leopard, elephant, gibbon,
two types of Asiatic bear, and
two types of leaf-monkey
(langur). Established in 1981,
Tiger, one of many species at Kaeng
Krachan National Park
this 1,150-sq mile (2,920-sq km)
preserve covers nearly half of
Phetchaburi province and
contains some of the most
pristine tracts of tropical
evergreen forest in the country.
The park is relatively unknown
to tourists but offers some
excellent hiking.
Its western flank is marked
out by the dramatic Tenasserim
mountain range and the Thai-
Burmese border. Streams and
rivers are the water source for
the 17-sq mile (45-sq km)
Kaeng Krachan reservoir,
which can be explored by boat.
Thousands of migratory birds
coming from as far afield as
China and Siberia rest, feed, and
breed in the salt marshes.
Horse for hire at Cha-am beach
3 Cha-am

Phetchaburi province. * 20,000. £
@ n TAT, 500/51 Phetkasem Rd,
Cha-am (0-3247-1005/6). ( daily.
Since the mid-1980s Cha-am has
experienced a dramatic surge in
popularity. It has been developed
from a quiet fishing and market
village into a lively playground
for Bangkok weekenders. Tall
condominiums and huge resort
hotels have sprung up alongside
the long, sandy beach. During
the week, however, it can be
remarkably quiet.
The resort caters primarily to
Thais, who focus their attentions
on eating and drinking rather
than swimming. At umbrella-
shaded tables strung along the
beach like a high tide mark,
visitors feast on delicious grilled
fish, squid, shrimp, and mussels.
Spicy dips and cold beer
complete the culinary

adventure. Those who prefer
more formal eating will find
restaurants serving the same
range of succulent fare at the
northern end of the beach.
4 Mareukatha-
yawan Palace

Off Hwy 4, 5 miles (9 km) S of Cha­am.
n TAT, Cha­am (0­3247­1005/6). @
from Cha­am. Open 8:30am–4:30pm
daily. & donation. ^ in bedroom.
Mareukathayawan Palace (“the
palace of love and hope”) was the
summer residence of Rama VI.
Built midway between Cha­
am and Hua Hin, this grand
golden teak building was
designed by an Italian architect
and constructed in just 16
days in 1923. However, it was
abandoned when Rama VI
died two years later and stood
neglected for decades. The
palace has undergone
restoration since the 1970s
and is now close to its
original appearance.
The building is cool and airy;
its wooden halls, verandas, and
royal chambers are decorated
simply and painted in pastel
shades. Although the palace is
easily accessible, it is rarely
visited by tourists.
The majestic open hall and first-floor gallery in the north wing of Mareukathayawan Palace
WESTERN SEABOARD
5 Hua Hin

Prachuap Khiri Khan province.
* 33,000. ~ £ @ n Munici­
pality Tourist Office, 114 Phetkasem
Rd, Hua Hin (0­3247­1005). ( daily.
Hua Hin was Thailand’s first
beach resort. Its rail connection
to Bangkok, completed in 1911, Hin of the 1920s, visit the
was key to its success, making
the 118­mile (190­km)
journey from
Bangkok a
manageable
seaside excursion.
A nine­hole golf
course and the
splendid colonial­ Hua Hin Station, vital to the elegant 1920s
style Railway Hotel resort’s early success
were built in 1922
and 1923.
Following the international
trend for recuperative spa
resorts at the time, Hua Hin
became a popular retreat for
minor Thai royalty, Bangkok’s
high society, and affluent
foreigners. Prince Chulachakra­
bongse built a summer palace
in the town which he called
Klai Klangwon (meaning “far
from worries”) in 1926. It is still
used by the royal family and
is not open to the public. Hua
Hin’s fortunes declined after
World War II, but its historical
connections have helped it
 335
become popular again with a
new generation of Bangkokians.
Hua Hin is also a hit with
international retirees, who are
catered for by new holiday
homes and condominiums.
There has also been a marked
rise in boutique resorts, spas,
and restaurants.
For an insight into the Hua
Railway Hotel, now called the
Sofitel Centara
Grand Resort &
Villas. By the
1960s it had
fallen into disrepair,
but a sensitive
restoration of the
decor, museum
tearoom, and
topiaries won it an Outstanding
Conservation Award from the
Architects’ Association of
Thailand in 1993. Before its
refurbishment the hotel and
its environs were used in the
making of the film The Killing
Fields, where it stood in for the
Phnom Penh Hotel.
South of Hua Hin’s main
beach lies Khao Takiap (or
“chopstick hill”), which is
covered with miniature chedis
and shrines. Nearby stands
Wat Khao Lad, fronted by an
impressive 66­ft (20­m) standing
Buddha, which faces the sea.
336  THE GULF OF THAILAND

6 Khao Sam Roi Yot Kra Chok – perched on one of

National Park

Prachuap Khiri Khan province. Visitors’
Centre off Hwy 4, 23 miles (37 km)
S of Pranburi. n TAT, Cha-am
(0-3247-1005/6); Forestry Dept
(0-2562-0760 or ∑ dnp.go.th for
bungalow bookings). @ Pranburi,
then songthaew. & 8
This small coastal park sits in
the narrowest part of the Thai
peninsula, overlooking the Gulf
of Thailand. Covering 38 sq
miles (98 sq km), it is a region of Prachuap Khiri Khan
contrasts: sea, sand, and marsh
backed by mountains and
caves. The park is best known
for its distinctive limestone
pinnacles (Khao Sam Roi
Yot means “mountain of 300
peaks”) that rise vertically from
the marshland to a height of
2,150 ft (650 m).
The park’s wetlands
provide a sanctuary for water
birds. Millions of migratory birds it is certainly true that its coastal
flying from Siberia to
Sumatra and Australia
rest, feed, and breed
here between
August and April.
It is home to many
other animals such
as the rare dusky
langur, the
nocturnal slow Beware monkeys sign,
loris, and the crab- Khao Sam Roi Yot
eating macaque.
Tham Phraya Nakon houses a
grand pavilion, built for King
Rama V in 1896, and Tham Sai
contains fossilized falls.
Wat Chong Kra Chok, overlooking sedate
7 Prachuap Khiri
Khan

Prachuap Khiri Khan province.
* 60,000. £ @ g n TAT,
Cha-am (0-3247-1005/6). ( daily.
Prachuap Khiri Khan means “town
among the mountain chain.” And
sugar-loaf limestone outcrops at
either end of a sandy bay
give it a “little Rio”
appearance. The local
economy relies
primarily on fishing;
freshly caught seafood
can be purchased from a
number of good
restaurants and stalls
along the promenade.
This peaceful
administrative town has pleasant
swimming beaches to the north
and south of its main bay. The
top of the delightful Wat Chong
the surrounding hills – offers the
best view of the area. About 200
macaques live on the hill, and
every evening they climb to the
top to feed from the lovely
frangipani trees.
8 Chumphon

Chumphon province. * 84,000.
£ @ g n TAT, Chumphon
(0-7750-1831). ( daily. _ Luang
Suan Buddha Image Parade and Boat
Race (5 days in Oct).
Chumphon is regarded by
some as the point of cultural
transition between the
heartland of the Buddhist Tai
peoples, and the peninsular
south of the country, where
Muslim culture is strong. The
town was the home of Prince
Chumphon, the Father of the
Royal Thai Navy, who died in
1923. Nearby, the 225-ft (68-m)
long HMS Chumphon torpedo
boat, decommissioned in 1975,
has been preserved. It forms a
distinctive landmark.
The reefs around the 47
tiny islands off Chumphon’s
140-mile (222-km) long coast
are becoming increasingly
popular with divers. Tour
companies in town will arrange
diving day trips to such islands
as Samet, Mattra, Ngam Yai,
and Ngam Noi. Chumphon is
also the most convenient place
from which to get a ferry to Ko
Tao (see p345).

Chaiya’s Role in the Srivijaya Empire

The Mahayana Buddhist Empire of Srivijaya (see pp60–61) dominated
the whole Malaysian peninsula and parts of Indonesia between the
7th and 13th centuries AD. Although the majority of scholars now
believe that Palembang in Sumatra was the Srivijayan capital, discoveries
of temple remains and some exquisite stone and bronze statues
(many now in the National Museum in Bangkok) in Chaiya provide
Srivijayan evidence of Chaiya’s importance. Its strategic geographical
votive tablet position, as a then coastal port, meant the town played an
important role in the east-west trade between India, the peninsula,
and China. In fact, Chaiya was mentioned in the writings of the Chinese monk
I Chinga, who, while visiting the area in the late 7th century, testified to its religious
and cultural sophistication. It is known that some of Chaiya’s rulers were connected
by marriage to those of central Java. Furthermore, it is possible that the name
“Chaiya” originated as a contraction of “Siwichaiya” (a different transliteration of
Srivijaya), which follows the local tendency to emphasize the final syllable of a word. 8th-century bronze
found at Chaiya

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33


A line of Buddha images at Phra Boromathat Chaiya, one of the few remaining temples from the Srivijaya period
9 Chaiya

Surat Thani province. * 34,000.
£ @ n TAT, Surat Thani
(0-7728-8818). ( daily. _ Chak
Phra Festival (Oct–Nov).
Despite the somewhat dreary
look of the small railroad town
of Chaiya, the settlement is
actually one of the oldest and
most historically significant in
Southern Thailand. A number of
superb examples of sculpture
dating from the Srivijaya period
(7th–13th centuries) have been
found here.
Many of the sculptures show
clear Mon and Indian
influences, depicting figures
such as Bengali-style Buddha
images and multiarmed Hindu
deities. These, and a variety of
votive tablets, can be seen at
the Chaiya National Museum.
It also holds examples of
Ayutthayan art. The museum is
1 mile (2 km) west of Chaiya
and a 10-minute walk from
the train station.
Right beside the museum
is Phra Boromathat Chaiya
(see pp350–51), an important
Srivijayan temple. Within
the main compound is the
central chedi, which has been
painstakingly restored.
Square in plan, it has four
porches that ascend in tiers
WESTERN SEABOARD
and are topped with small
towers. The 8th-century chedi
is built of brick and vegetable
mortar. Although the site is old,
it is the memory of Phra Chaiya
Wiwat, a locally venerated monk
who died in 1949, that attracts
the majority of worshipers today.
E Chaiya National Museum
Phra Boromathat Chaiya.
Tel 0-7743-1066. Open Wed–Sun.
Closed public hols. &
Environs
The International Dhamma
Hermitage (see p451) at Wat
Suan Mok, southwest of
Chaiya, is a popular retreat for
Buddhists from all over the
world. Its attraction is its back-
to-basics religious philosophy
established by the wat’s
founder, Buddhadhasa Bhikkhu,
who died in 1993. Within the
temple a regimen of physical
Murals relating the story of the Buddha at
Wat Suan Mok
Dramatic limestone cliffs at Rachabrapha Dam, Surat Thani
 337
labor underpins a simple
monastic life devoid of
elaborate religious ceremony.
Ten-day residential meditation
retreats are held here, starting
on the first day of each month.
 Wat Suan Mok
4 miles (7 km) S of Chaiya off Hwy 41.
Tel 0-7743-1552. Open daily.
0 Surat Thani

Surat Thani province. * 31,000.
~ £ Phun Phin, 9 miles (14 km)
W of Surat Thani, then bus. @
g Ban Don (in town); Thong, 4 miles
(6 km) E of town. n TAT, 5 Talat
Mai Rd, Surat Thani (0-7728-8818).
_ Rambutan Fair (Aug); Chak
Phra Festival (Oct–Nov).
Surat Thani, a business center
and port dealing in rubber
and coconuts, first grew to
prominence in the Srivijaya
period, since it was strategically
located at the mouth of the Tapi
and Phum Duang rivers. The
riverside is still intriguing today
with its numerous small boats
ferrying people to the city’s
busy waterfront markets, which
sell fresh products and flowers.
But Surat Thani is best known as
a transportation gateway to
the beaches of Ko Samui and
Ko Pha Ngan.
340  THE GULF OF THAILAND

q Ko Samui

Ko Samui is situated 400 miles (700 km) south of Bangkok, in
the Gulf of Thailand. It is the country’s third-largest island, after Ko Pha
Ngan
Phuket and Ko Chang. A backpackers’ haven in the 1970s, Samui Ban Bang Po •
has now seen tourism become its main income earner. With
rapid development, the arrival of major hotel chains, and
persistent promotion by the TAT, Samui has become one of the
most popular islands in Southeast Asia. It also attracts foreign
investors building luxury homes for wealthy business people
from Hong Kong, Singapore, and Taiwan, and has a thriving Angthong
luxury villa rental market serving European holiday makers. • Nathon
Surat
Nathon Thani
Nathon is Samui’s capital
and main ferry port. The Don Sak
island was first settled in the
1850s by Chinese merchants
who had come in search of
trade in cotton and coconuts.
Nathon was founded around
1905, when the site was
Ko Tham
chosen as the island’s
administrative center.
Few visitors stay here, • Thong Yang
except in order to take an early
morning boat to Surat Thani on The 38-ft (12-m) “Big Buddha” on Ko Faan,
the mainland. The town has a just off the Samui coast
supermarket, post office, and
money changing facilities. Maenam
The main transport route on This 2-mile (4-km) long beach
the island is the 31-mile (50-km) is the most westerly stretch of
0 kilometers 2
circular road, which passes sand on the north coast. It has
through Nathon. Songthaews extensive views of Ko Pha Ngan 0 miles 1

departing from Nathon ferry (see p343). Visitors flock here •

port travel either northward
(clockwise) toward Chaweng
beach and the airport, or
southward (counterclockwise)
toward Lamai.
for the excellent windsurfing Thong Krut
opportunities, which are aided Key
by the strong directional Main road
breezes that blow on-shore Minor road
during the northeasterly

Maenam, on the north coast, one of the quieter beaches on Ko Samui

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

Ko Pha Ngan
J Ko Faan (Big
Buddha) •
Maenam •
Bophut •
• Hin Lat waterfall
• Khao Pom
• Namuang waterfall
Hua Thanon •
J Buddha image. From the pier at
monsoon from December to
February. However, the beach is
narrow and not as attractive as
others on the island.
Bophut
Bophut has better facilities
than Maenam. Its bustling
village, at the eastern end of the
next bay to the east, includes
bungalows, hotels, banks, bars,
restaurants, and a range of
water sports. The 1-mile (2-km)
long beach is popular with
families and backpackers.
Bangrak
Adjacent to Bophut is Bangrak,
also known as “Big Buddha”
beach. The sea is not as clear
here as it is off Chaweng and
Lamai beaches (see p342), but
Thong Son •
Hat Choeng
Mon •
Bangrak
• Songserm (0-2808- 0734), Nathon
• Chaweng
J
• Lamai
Hin Ta & Hin Yai
•
it does offer plenty of budget
accommodations. A causeway
links the eastern end of Bangrak
beach to the tiny island of Ko
Faan, home to the large, gold-
covered Big Buddha. The
imposing statue is popular with
islanders and Asian tourists,
who come here to make merit
(see p133). A gaudy bazaar of
souvenir stalls and cafés has
Palm trees shading typical beachside huts on Ko Samui
KO SAMUI  341
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Surat Thani province. * 42,000.
n TAT, Nathon (0-7742-0504) or
TAT, Surat Thani (0-7728-8818);
(0-7742-0157, for ferry bookings).
b 2 miles (3 km) S of Nathon
(0-7742-1281). ( daily.
Transport
~ 14 miles (23 km) from
Nathon. g from Surat Thani,
Tha Thong and Don Sak.
Paragliding over Chaweng beach, one of
many activities
sprung up at the foot of the
naga staircase leading to the
Bangrak there is a ferry service
to Hat Rin, a beach on Ko Pha
Ngan and home of the full
moon parties.
Thong Son and Choeng Mon
On Samui’s northeastern cape
there are a series of secluded
rocky coves. Hat Thong Son is a
peaceful inlet with marvelous
views across to Ko Pha Ngan.
Most of the accommodation on
the headland is concentrated at
Ao Choeng Mon, an attractive
bay with a pleasant beach and
good swimming.
For keys to symbols see back flap
342  the gulf of thailand
Exploring Ko Samui: the East
Coast and Minor Sights
the beautiful beaches and buzzing nightlife of Chaweng
and lamai on Samui’s east coast draw tourists from all over
the world. Many visitors never stray from these resorts,
leaving the quieter beaches on the south and west coasts,
the island’s wats, and Samui’s spectacular mountainous
and forested interior relatively untouched.
palms. Chaweng is at its most
scenic along its southern section
where large boulders alternate
with discreet sandy coves. The
beach has a wide range of sports
including windsurfing, canoeing,
paragliding, scuba diving, tennis,
and volleyball.
Chaweng has the most
developed tourist infrastructure
on Samui with travel agencies,
banks, supermarkets, and car and
bike rental among the facilities
Muslim fishermen landing their boats on available. The main street in
Samui’s east coast Chaweng is a hub for nightlife
and shopping in Ko Samui.
Chaweng Bars, clubs, and restaurants rub
Chaweng is the longest, busiest, shoulders with souvenir shops
and most beautiful beach on and upscale boutiques.
the island, stretching 3 miles
(5 km) down the east coast. Lamai
Its warm waters and white Samui’s second largest beach is
sands have attracted budget also very developed, with big
travelers for many years. Today, chain and luxury hotels along
though, Chaweng is a mecca for the waterfront. The main focus
package tourists and is lined is at the center of the 2-mile
with hotels and bars. The budget (4-km) long beach. Behind the
bungalows of yesteryear are beach are riotous bars,
long gone. nightclubs, and restaurants
At the northern end of serving Western food.
Chaweng is a tranquil 3-ft (1-m) Lamai village is at the quieter,
deep lagoon, ideal for children northern end of the beach,
and novice windsurfers. away from the crowds. It still has
The long, inviting sweep of the many old teak houses with
middle and southern end of the thatched roofs. The village’s
beach is bordered by coconut main sight is Wat Lamai Cultural
Chaweng, the longest and most attractive beach on Ko Samui
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
Hall, built in 1826, which has a
small folk museum dedicated to
arts and crafts found on Samui.
On the southern promontory
of Lamai beach are the Hin Ta
and Hin Yai rock formations that
are famous for their similarity in
shape to male and female
sexual organs.
South and West Coasts
There are many quiet beaches
with simple huts along the
south and west coasts, such as
around Thong Krut. Another is
Thong Yang which – although
only 1 mile (1.5 km) south of the
pier where the vehicle ferries
from Don Sak dock – which is
perfect for those seeking
peaceful seclusion.
Swimming in Namuang waterfall, in the
center of Samui
The Interior
For visitors tiring of the beach,
the interior of Samui offers an
adventurous alternative.
The mix of dense tropical forest
and large coconut plantations
seems impenetrable, but there
are rough trails – which can be
negotiated by four-wheel-drive
vehicle or by motorcycle – and
two roads leading to Samui’s
picturesque waterfalls.
Namuang, an impressive 98-ft
(30-m) high waterfall, is a
popular destination for picnics
and swimming. It is situated
6 miles (10 km) from Nathon
and 3 miles (5 km) from the
circular coast road. Hin Lat,
2 miles (3 km) from Nathon, is
smaller than Namuang and less
interesting. Both falls are at their
most spectacular in December
or January at the end of the
rainy season, when they swell
with rainwater.
 western seaboard  343

Ko Ma • Hat Khom
w Ko Pha Ngan
 Ban Chaloklam
• Ban Faimal •
Surat Thani province. * 8,400.
g from Nathon on Ko Samui to
Tong Sala. n TAT, Surat Thani • Ao Tong Nai
Pan
(0-7728-8818). ( daily.
KO PHA NGAN
Tansadet
Ko Pha Ngan is 9 miles (15 km) •
north of Ko Samui, and is two-
thirds its size. The island has the
same tropical combination of
powdery beaches, accessible Ko
•
Phaeng
coral reefs, and rugged, forested Ta
o waterfall
interior. Budget travelers come
to enjoy a bohemian life, staying Tong Sala •
Ban Nok
in rattan huts beside idyllic •
bays. The island is much less Ko Samui • Ban Kai
Ko Samui
developed for tourism than
Samui, due mainly to its bad
road system. Much of it is
accessible only by sea or along Hat Rin
rutted tracks by pickup truck. Key •
Main road
Tong Sala Minor road
This town is the entrance port
Dirt track
to Ko Pha Ngan, and, like
Nathon on Ko Samui, acts as a
service town with many banks,
0 kilometers 2
a post restante, supermarkets,
travel agents, restaurants, a food 0 miles 2
market, and weekly tourist
market. Next to the pier, an Chaloklam
armada of songthaews waits to A strong smell of dried, salted Pan Yai in the northeast offer
take visitors around the island. fish emanates from Chaloklam’s arguably the most attractive
storefronts. Asian visitors often scenery. They can be reached
Hat Rin stop here to buy fish after by pickup truck or taxi from
Hat Rin is the most commercial visiting the revered Chao Tong Sala or, between January
town on the island, located at the Mae Koan Im shrine in and September, or by small
southeastern tip, 6 miles (10 km) the center of the ferry from Maenam
from Tong Sala. It is a popular island. In Chaloklam, on Ko Samui.
destination with backpackers and fishing-related Tansadet, 2 miles
party animals. Hat Rin has two activities such as (3 km) to the south, is
wide beaches flanking the head- mending nets and the island’s biggest
land. Its accommodations are gutting fish coexist stream and waterfall.
often fully booked for a week with shop-houses It owes its name,
either side of the monthly full selling pizza and “royal stream,” to
moon party, which starts after other tourist snacks. the 10 visits King
dark and goes on beyond sunrise. The beaches near Chulalongkorn
the town tend to be made between
rather dirty but Dried fish at Chaloklam 1888 and 1909.
improve farther to village Since then most
the east, especially Thai monarchs have
as far out of town as left large stone inscriptions on
Khom beach. rocks alongside the stream –
finding the signatures requires
Tong Nai Pan scrambling among the rocks.
Although the majority of the The stream has two falls,
beaches are on the east side of Sampan and Daeng. Both are
the island, the roads accessing suitable for swimming, but
the beaches are fairly rugged heavy rainfall from September
and some can only be reached to December makes the
The white sands of Hat Rin beach on Ko via rough track. The twin bays of stream bed too dangerous to
Pha Ngan Tong Nai Pan Noi and Tong Nai walk along.
For keys to symbols see back flap
344  THE GULF OF THAILAND

e Angthong
National Marine
Park

Surat Thani province. Park HQ on
Ko Wua Talab. g from Ko Samui.
n TAT, Surat Thani (0-7728-8818);
Park HQ (0-7728-0222); Forestry Dept
(0-2562-0760). Bungalow bookings:
∑ dnp.go.th Closed Nov–Dec.
The 40 virtually uninhabited
islands of the Angthong
National Marine Park display a
rugged beauty distinct from
palm-fringed Ko Samui 19 miles
(31 km) away to the southeast.
The Angthong (“golden basin”)
islands, covering an area of
39 sq miles (102 sq km), are the
submerged peaks of a flooded
range of limestone mountains
that, farther south in Nakhon Si
Thammarat province, rise to
6,000 ft (1,835 m).
Angthong’s pristine beauty
owes much to being the preserve
of the Royal Thai Navy, and there-
fore off-limits until 1980 when it
was declared a National Marine
Park. Now naval boats have been
replaced by tourist ferries. Most
visitors come on daytrips from
Ko Samui to relax on the mica-
white sands, explore the lush
forests and limestone caves,
sea canoe around the islands’
jagged coastlines, and snorkel
among the colorful fan corals.
Another attraction is the
abundant wildlife, both on
land and in the sea. Leopard
Ko Naayphud
Ko Hindab
Ko Wuakantang
Key
Trail
J Ko Sam Sao
cats, squirrels, long-tailed Ko Mae Ko
macaques, sea otters, and
pythons may be glimpsed,
and a lack of natural predators
has made the endearingly Ko Phi
friendly dusky langur easy to
spot. Among the 40 bird • National Park Headquarters
species found in the
J
archipelago are the black
baza, the edible-nest swiftlet,
the brahminy kite, and the Ko Wua Talab
Eurasian woodcock. Ko Samui
Divers taking advantage
of the excellent coral off Ko
Sam Sao will probably see
short- bodied mackerel (pla
thu), a staple of the Thai diet.
The sea around the islands A n g th o n g
is favored by the fish as a N a ti o n a l M a r i n e
breeding ground. It is also
Park
possible to spot dolphins,
although they are wary
of humans because
fisherman catch them
for their meat. The park
headquarters, and the
islands’ only tourist
accommodations and

Ko Tao-Pun

Ko Phaluai

0 kilometers 2

0 miles 1
View from a trail on Ko Wua Talab, Angthong National Marine Park
For keys to symbols see back flap

Boat for carrying visitors from the ferry to the beach on Ko Mae Ko
facilities, are located on the
largest island, Ko Wua Talab
(“sleeping cow island”). A
steep 1300-ft (400-m) climb
from here leads to a vista
offering wonderful panoramas
of the whole archipelago and
beyond to Ko Pha Ngan, Ko
Samui, and the mainland. The
view is at its best at sunrise
and sunset. Another fairly
tough climb leads to Tham
Buabok (“waving lotus
cave”), so named
because of the
shape of some of
its stalactites
and stalagmites.
On Ko Mae Ko there
is a swimming beach
as well as the stunning
Thale Noi, a wide Cowrie shell, Ko Tao the most rewarding
turquoise lake bordered
by sheer cliffs. This is the
“golden basin” that gives
the islands their name.
Birds’ nests: a regional delicacy
WESTERN SEABOARD  345
Pinnacle. Many sites are suitable
for beginners thanks to the
shallow inshore bays and clear
waters. In May water visibility
can approach 130 ft (40 m),
which is often claimed to be the
maximum possible. The island
has about 10 dive companies
that operate all year round,
although the main season is
from December to April.
The island itself is rugged,
with dense forest inland, quiet
coves along the east coast,
and a fine sweep of sandy
beach on the west side. Simple
bungalow and plusher resort
accommodation is available,
r Ko Tao although it can be difficult to
find a room in tourist season.
 A good way to get to know
Surat Thani province. * 1,300.
the island is to charter a small
g from Chumphon or Ko Samui. boat for a day trip, sailing
n TAT, Surat (0-7728-8818). around it and stopping at
different beaches. The boatmen
Located 25 miles (40 km) north supply snorkeling equipment
of Ko Pha Ngan, “turtle island” and know all the best spots.
is the smallest and prettiest of
the islands in the Samui
archipelago that offer visitors
accommodations.
Ko Tao’s major
attraction is its superb
offshore diving.
Excellent visibility, a
wide range of diving
sites, and a rich variety
of coral and marine
life make for some of
diving in the country.
The main dive sites
are Green Rock, Chumphon Diving among the rich marine life and fine
Pinnacle, and Southwest coral off Ko Tao
Bird’s-Nest Soup
Unlike such misleadingly named delicacies as Bombay duck,
the main ingredient of bird’s-nest soup is, indeed, birds’
nests. Not just any nest will do, however. Only the homes of
birds such as the brown-rumped swift, the edible-nest
swiftlet, and the sea swallow are acceptable. When these
delicate, saliva-thread constructions are cooked they are
transformed into smooth, noodlelike strands that are
considered to have aphrodisiac properties by peoples
throughout Southeast and East Asia. Such is the perceived
potency of the soup that the nests change hands for huge
sums of money. A government license is required to collect
the nests, and many of the most important sites, such as
those in caves on Ko Phi Phi Ley (see p377) are protected by
armed guards. The dangerous job of nest harvesting is
allowed only between February and April and in September,
when agile collectors must scale the cave walls on flimsy
bamboo scaffolds.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 SOUTHERN
THAILAND

Introducing
Southern Thailand 348–355
Upper Andaman Coast 356–377
Deep South 378–395
348  SOUTHERN THAILAND

Introducing Southern Thailand

The narrow peninsula of Southern Thailand, stretching from Ranong, on the
Myanmar border, to Malaysia, is a unique region with a rich, multicultural
heritage. Forested mountains run along much of the interior, and the
Ranong
hinterland and islands of Phangnga Bay in the Andaman Sea form
Thailand’s most spectacular natural landscape. Here the shallow
waters are dotted with limestone stacks and craggy islands
985 ft (300 m) high. Some of the country’s best sandy UPPER
beaches and diving sites are also found along the ANDAMAN
southern coasts and around the Andaman islands. COAST
(see pp356–377)
Though the beach resorts of Phuket and Krabi draw Ko
the most visitors to the area, the South also offers historic Surin
Ban Hin Lat
cultural sites, such as the towns of Songkhla and Nakhon
Si Thammarat. Sadly, many parts of the region’s coast
were hit by the tsunami in 2004 and some 5,300
Takua Pa
people were killed. The Thais responded rapidly, Phanom
though, and most of the reconstruction was
completed by 2006. Khao Lak
Ko
Similan Phangnga
Ao Luk

Phangnga
Bay
Thalang Krabi

Phuket Town
Phangnga Bay
(see pp368–71), with its
Ko Phi
weird and wonderful Phi
towering limestone
stacks, is one of Southern
Thailand’s most famous
natural beauty spots.
Due to massive erosion,
big tourist boats are
currently banned from
large areas of the bay.

Phuket (see pp362–7)

is Thailand’s largest island
and richest province.
Prosperous even during the
19th century, when Chinese
merchants used the island
as a base for sea trade,
today it is one of the most
popular tourist resorts in
Thailand. Phuket is now a
largely upscale destination
with luxury hotels,
restaurants, and shops
lining many of the island’s
stunning beaches. A wide
range of water sports is
available, including superb
diving facilities.

Ko Phi Phi Don as seen from a viewpoint in Krabi town

 INTRODUCING SOUTHERN THAILAND  349

Nakhon Si Thammarat
(see pp382–3), once the regional
capital of the Srivijaya Empire
(see pp350–51), is today the
South’s cultural center. Despite
some fine sights, including
Southern Thailand’s holiest
shrine, Wat Mahathat, and one of
the few remaining nang talung
shadow puppet theaters, the city
is not visited by many tourists.

Songkhla National
Museum (see p390),
contains an eclectic
collection of ceramics, art,
and furniture. It occupies
the one-time deputy
governor’s residence, a
splendid 19th-century
Chinese-style mansion.

Nakhon Si
Phra Thammarat
Saeng
Pak
Phanang

Thung Song
Ron Phibun

Khlong Thom

Huai Yot

Phatthalung

Pak Trang Korlae fishing boats (see p394), with painted

Meng Sathing Phra hulls, are a colorful feature of the Muslim South.
Some of the best ones can be seen at Pattani,
Palian
once an independent Muslim state.
Rattaphum Songkhla
Thung Wa
Hat Yai 0 kilometers 50
Pattani
0 miles 25
Na Thawi
Satun Saiburi

Ko Tarutao Sadao
Yala
Ba Cho
Narathiwat
DEEP SOUTH
(see pp378–395)

Betong

Tarutao National Marine Park (see p392)

has a wide diversity of wildlife and offers
some of the most stunning, unspoiled
beaches and island scenery in Thailand.
350  SOUTHERN THAILAND

The Peninsula as a Cultural Crossroads

For over 2,000 years, the peninsula that is now divided
between Malaysia, Thailand, and Myanmar has been a
major cultural crossroads. Finds from the Isthmus of Kra
(especially the historic trading centers of Nakhon Si
Thammarat, Chaiya, Sathing Phra, and Takua Pa) testify to
strong links with China, India, the Middle East, and even
the Roman Empire before the first millennium AD. In the
7th–13th centuries the Hindu-Buddhist Srivijaya Empire
held sway over much of the region. After Srivijaya’s
decline, Burma and Siam, both Buddhist, pushed south, Islam, the main religion in Malaysia,
is widely practiced in Southern
while Islam, brought by Arab traders, made a lasting Thailand today – minarets compete
impact in the southernmost part of the peninsula. with Buddhist shrines in many towns.
There was even greater cultural
diversity from the 16th century, To Arabia
when the British, Dutch,
Portuguese, and other colonial MYANMAR
powers developed trade routes
through the Straits of Malacca. INDIA

INDIAN
OCEAN

Prehistoric paintings can be found in ,

ica
Phangnga Bay (see pp368–71) and other Afr
To ope
parts of the peninsula. Humans have lived Eur
here at least since the last Ice Age, when the
peninsula did not exist as such – the area Trade Routes
from Borneo to Sumatra was then dry land. The Straits of Malacca have always been a natural
channel for sea routes. Chinese, Indian, and Arab
vessels were trading, gathering provisions, and
Ceremonial drums
“wintering” at posts along the peninsula at least
found at the ancient
cities of Chaiya and 2,000 years ago. European ships joined them
Nakhon Si Thammarat from the 16th century. As seafaring technology
and in Sumatra, were developed, ships became less dependent on some
made in Dong Son ports, which subsequently declined.
in North Vietnam
c.500 BC,
testifying to
early trade. 0 kilometers 1,000

0 miles 500

Key
The Srivijaya Empire ruled the
Local routes (c. 5th century
peninsula as far north as Chaiya in the BC onward)
7th–13th centuries. As first a Hindu
and then a Mahayana Buddhist Major routes during the Srivijaya
period (7th–13th centuries AD)
state, it produced many statues
of Bodhisattvas – enlightened Major European routes
beings who delay nirvana in (16th century onward)
order to save mankind.
 INTRODUCING SOUTHERN THAILAND  351

This Dutch East India Company
cannon is in Nakhon Si
Thammarat, an ancient town in
Southern Thailand (see pp382–3).
The company traded all over
Southeast Asia and was drawn to
the peninsula by access to Chinese
and Japanese goods.
To China
Srivijayan Architecture
The Srivijaya Empire controlled trade at ports
such as Chaiya (see pp336–7) and Takua Pa,
on the Isthmus of Kra. Numerous Srivijayan
artifacts have been found in the Gulf and
South of Thailand, but most chedis,
which were built of stucco and
brick, have been built over.
The main example to survive
is an outstanding, complete
chedi at Wat Phra Boromathat
in Chaiya. Cruciform in shape,
it has four tiers, decreasing in
size as they ascend. On each
corner is a smaller chedi. Built in
the 8th century, it has been
restored many times, Chedi of the Javan-influenced Wat
most recently in 1930. Phra Boromathat, Chaiya

VIETNAM
THAILAND

CAMBODIA

SOUTH
I S T H M U S
CHINA
O F K R A

SEA

S
T
R
A
MALAYSIA
I
T
S
O
F This European engraving
M
A
shows a march in Pattani (see
L
A p394), one of several Muslim
C
C states in the peninsula that lost
A BORNEO
autonomy to Bangkok in the
SUMATRA early part of the 20th century.

To the Spice Islands (Moluccas)

JAVA
UR OPE
IC A, E
TO A FR

European trade
led to extensive
mapping of
Southeast Asia.
This 17th-century
French map shows
the local trade route
up the east coast of
The Thais and Burmese battled the peninsula, from
over the northern peninsula after Batavia (Jakarta) in
Srivijaya waned. A fight for Phuket, Java to the city of
or Junkceylon (see pp362–7), took Ayutthaya in Siam.
place in 1785.
352  SOUTHERN THAILAND

Coral Reefs
Thailand’s best coral reefs are found in the Andaman Sea.
These reefs, which are composed of countless tiny marine
animals, grow extremely slowly: 3 ft (1 m) of coral reef can
take 1,000 years to form. As a coral reef is an excellent
source of food and shelter, it provides the base for a
unique and diverse marine ecosystem. The reef consists
of reef builders (mainly hard corals, whose limestone
skeletons form the basis of the reef) and reef dwellers,
such as sea urchins, whose remains may also help build
the reef when they die. Although the 2004 tsunami did
Snorkeling is a low-cost and easy
damage many reefs, especially those of the Surin, Similan, way to explore a coral reef. Many
and Phi Phi islands, initial reports of great devastation reefs can be found in relatively
were inaccurate. shallow, clear water, which is
excellent for snorkeling.

Gobies – small, Coconut grove

spiny-finned fish
with large heads –
live mainly in West-facing
tropical waters. wall
They often share
sand burrows
with shrimp.

The clown
triggerfish has an
upright spine in its
dorsal fin. The spine
is raised to wedge
the fish under rocks
and ledges; this
stops predators from
pulling the fish out.

A Typical Reef
On the island’s east side, the reef flat
slopes away from the beach, rises to a crest,
then slopes steeply to the sea bed. Mostly hard corals
are found on the east side. The reef’s west walls tend to be
much steeper and rockier than the east side. Its boulders
provide protection for soft corals and nooks in which creatures
such as eels live.

Leopard sharks, also

Moray eels are voracious
predators, hiding in crevices and
lunging out at unsuspecting
prey swimming by. Food left
between a moray’s teeth may
be picked clean by hungry
cleaner shrimp.
known as zebra sharks,
pose no threat to people.
At Shark Point, near Ko
Phi Phi, divers often see
these timid creatures
resting or cruising along
the outskirts of the
coral reef.
 INTRODUCING SOUTHERN THAILAND  353

Scuba diving is an
excellent way to
experience diverse reef
ecosystems (see pp446–7).
In the South, Phuket
has the most diving
operators offering
instruction, equipment
rental, and trips to
offshore islands such as
Ko Phi Phi. When
Many species of sea bird exploring a coral reef,
gather around islands with you should not touch
coral reefs to feed on the the delicate corals, as
abundant fish life. This is a this causes permanent
great egret, a large wading damage to the reef.
bird that feeds by stabbing
small fish with its razor-
sharp bill. Rays are often seen around coral reefs. Manta
rays have impressive wingspans of up to
Sandy beach 20 ft (6 m), while blue-spotted
Reef flat
rays have a poisonous spine
Reef crest in their tail.

Snapper often follow

schools of feeding goatfish,
devouring any small fish
Reef slope that escape the latter.

Coral: the Reef’s Building Block

Coral is made of the skeletons of polyps, small animals related to sea
anemones and jellyfish. Polyps are unusual in that they build their
skeletons outside their bodies. As the polyps divide, the coral colony
slowly builds up. There may be as many as 200 different species of
coral in a reef, divided into hard corals such as brain coral, and
colorful soft corals, which have no stony outer skeleton.

Giant hermit crabs are soft-

bodied crustaceans. They
protect their bodies by living
and moving around the sea
bed in the empty shells of Hard, rocklike coral Soft, plantlike coral
mollusks such as whelks.
354  southern thailand

Mangrove Forests
Mangrove forests develop only in the tropics, in brackish
and saltwater areas of estuaries. in thailand they are found
in pockets of the south, particularly at Phangnga Bay
(see pp368–71). Mangrove species are the only trees to
have adapted to the inhospitable conditions of these
muddy, intertidal zones. the forests typically cover networks
of channels and levees created from the buildup of silt
that becomes trapped in the cagelike root systems of the The characteristic stiltlike
trees. though often dismissed as wasteland, in its natural roots of most mangrove trees
support the tree against the
state a mangrove forest is a vital ecosystem – a fertile
constant movement of tidal
spawning, nursing, feeding, and sheltering ground for waters. As well as holding the
crustaceans, fish, birds, snakes, and even mammals. trunk of the tree above the
“Primary” mangrove grows to over 80 ft (25 m) high. high tide level, the roots trap
nutrient-rich sediments.
Most mangrove in thailand is “secondary,” meaning it has
been cut by humans and reaches only 16–33 ft (5–10 m).

Sonneratia are
sturdy trees, tolerant
of high salinity.
Breathing roots,
or pneumatophores,
can excrete excess salt.
Rhizophora species
Avicennia are are associated with
sustained by large soft mud under
cable root systems strong tidal influence.
below the mud.

The upward-growing roots

(pneumatophores) of some trees
have special “breathing” pores
used during low tide.

The mud
skipper, so
called for its Cross Section of a Mangrove Levee
skipping gait This cross section shows a typical gradation of trees in a Thai
across mud mangrove forest. The waters are at high tide, a time when small
flats at low tide, fish and invertebrates feed in the sheltered, nutrient-rich waters
is the ubiquitous around the roots of the trees. At low tide, when the roots of the
mangrove
trees are exposed, crabs and wading birds scour the mud flats
dweller. It can
for trapped fish and decaying matter.
survive for
short periods
out of water. The estuarine
crocodile was once
king of the mangroves.
Nowadays it is bred in
farms and is very rarely
seen in the wild.

Male fiddler crabs sift the silt with

their one enlarged claw, selecting
Small-clawed otters are often tiny organic particles to eat.
spotted in mangrove regions. As with most other types of crab,
They eat the smaller inhabitants their colorful claws are also used
such as mollusks and crabs. in courtship displays.
 introducing southern thailand  355

Rhizophora trees, such as these at Phangnga

Bay, are common in Thai mangrove forests.
Their colonizing ability is largely due to the
unusual shape of their seed pods. With dagger-
shaped stalks, these penetrate the ooze rather
than floating away with the tide.

Yellow-ringed cat snakes, like

other mangrove snakes,
are adept swimmers and
tree climbers. They rest
by day and hunt fish
and frogs by night.

Nipa palms thrive in soft mud

away from wave action. Nipa is
Bruguiera trees grow in
used by Thais to wrap tobacco
compacted mud that is
and as an ingredient in candies
inundated with water only
and alcohol.
during high spring tides.

Crab-eating macaques inhabit

Thai mangrove forests; they are
capable swimmers and forage for
crabs at low tide. Seeds also form
part of the macaques’ diet.

The Destruction of Thailand’s Mangrove Forests

Despite the provision of a national mangrove management program (set up in 1946), some
60 percent of Thailand’s mangrove has been cleared since the 1960s – just 300,000 acres were
thought to remain by 1996. Not only has this loss of habitat
decimated marine life, but coastal erosion has also started to
become a problem in parts of the South. Without the roots of
mangrove trees to trap it, estuarine silt is deposited over a
progressively larger area, and seawater seeps over more and
more of the land. The rate of loss peaked in the late 1980s
with the boom in tiger shrimp farming in former mangrove
areas. After clearing mangrove trees to make way for shrimp
farms, farmers use the tide-flushed mangrove channels to
discharge nutrient-rich excreta from the prawn pools. This
reduces oxygen levels in the adjacent natural breeding
Shrimp farm in a former area of grounds of shrimp, fish, and crabs. Charcoal production is also
mangrove forest to blame: tall mangrove species have been select-cut for
decades in order to be incinerated and turned into charcoal.
The fuel is sold cheaply in Thailand or shipped to Singapore for distribution within Asia. Road and
harbor construction are other factors responsible for the loss of mangrove forests in Thailand.
 SOUTHERN THAILAND  357

UPPER ANDAMAN
COAST
The abiding image of Thailand’s Andaman Coast is of long sandy
beaches backed by swaying palms and a verdant hinterland of
rainforest. Centered on Ko Phuket, the upper half of this coast has
many attractions. This region suffered the most from the 2004
tsunami, in particular Ranong, the Surin, Similan, and Phi Phi islands,
but rebuilding and environmental restoration work has been swift.

The Andaman Coast around Phuket has
long been a magnet for Thais and
foreigners. Merchants were drawn by its
strategic position on the spice routes
between East and West (see pp350–51);
prospectors came for the rich tin
deposits. This is a lush, fertile region.
Much of the interior is cloaked in
rainforest, and rubber, coffee, cashew,
banana, and durian plantations
are common.
The outstanding natural beauty of the
Andaman Coast is known the world over.
The biggest draw in the region is Phuket,
now a resort island, which has superb
beaches, excellent diving facilities, and
the most developed tourist infrastructure
in Southern Thailand. Over the last
20 years, many traditional sea gypsy and
Muslim fishing villages on Phuket and
around Krabi have been transformed
into vacation resorts. Long-tail boats
take visitors to sights like the extraordinary
limestone stacks of Phangnga Bay.
In remote mangrove channels – accessible
only by canoe – otters, monkeys, and sea
eagles still live undisturbed.
There is outstanding scenery and diving
around Ko Phi Phi, though it is now firmly
on the tourist trail. Visitors wanting sand
and sun without the crowds head for
relatively undeveloped islands such as
Ko Lanta. Unspoiled beach resorts can be
found along the stretch of coast from
Ranong to Phuket, and the virgin
rainforest of Khao Sok National Park is
located inland. West of here, the Ko Surin
and Ko Similan archipelagos offer some
of the world’s best dive sites.
The southwest monsoon, which lasts
from about June to October, makes
some of the outer islands inaccessible.

Lush green environs of Andaman Sea Resort, Krabi

Long-tail boats moored at Paradise Beach, Phuket
358  SOUTHERN THAILAND

Exploring the Upper Andaman Coast

This part of Thailand’s Andaman Sea coast contains some of the most
inviting beach scenery in Southeast Asia. Using the international
resort of Phuket as a base, visitors have 12 long sandy beaches on
their doorstep and a full range of shopping, dining, entertainment,
land and water sport services. The towering limestone stacks of Ko Chang
Phangnga Bay can readily be explored in a day. An alternative base
is quieter Krabi, which combines fine beaches with spectacular
Ko Phayam
cliff landscapes. The idyllic island scenery of Ko Phi Phi is
accessible from Krabi and Phuket. The monsoon forests
of the Tenasserim mountain range provide a backdrop
Kapoe
to the little frequented beaches of Khao Lak.
Avid divers and snorkelers can visit the remote
Similan and Surin archipelagos acclaimed for KO SURIN
their superlative corals and aquatic life. Khao Lang Kha Tuk
1395m

A
S E
Khura Buri

A N
KH
NA AO
TIO
NAL
A N D A M

Takua Pa
KHAO LAK COA

Khao Lak

KO SIMILAN
Tap Lamu

Yachting off the coast of the unspoiled

Similan archipelago
S

Phangnga
T

0 kilometers 25 Thai Muang

P H B AY

0 miles 15
AN

Ko Khao
Phing Khan
GNGA

Thalang
Ko Yao
PHUKET Yai

Patong Phuket Town

A deserted beach on Ko Phi Phi – still possible to find

despite its ever-increasing popularity

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 UPPER ANDAMAN COAST  359

Chumphon

Sights at a Glance
1 Ranong
RANONG 2 Khao Sok National Park
3 Khao Lak Coast
4 Ko Surin and Ko Similan
5 Phuket pp362–7
6 Phangnga Bay pp368–71
7 Khao Phanom Bencha
Kaeng National Park
Krung 8 Ao Nang
National 9 Krabi
Park
0 Khlong Thom
q Ko Phi Phi
w Ko Lanta
Kh
lon
Yag
n

The thickly forested hillside and limestone

cliffs near Khao Sok National Park

Chiaw Getting There

Lan Lake Most visitors make use of Phuket’s modern
SOK airport, and Phuket or Krabi make the best bases
PA R K to explore the Upper Andaman Coast. Reliable
Surat
air-conditioned bus services link Phuket, Krabi,
Thani Phangnga, and Ranong, although car rental in
Phanom Phuket or Krabi is much more convenient. There
is no railroad in the region. Ko Similan is accessible
from Phuket, and Ko Surin from Ranong. Thailand’s
Surat Thani water taxi, the long-tail boat, is the best way to
explore smaller bays once in the Phi Phi,
Phangnga Bay, or Ko Lanta areas.
Phra Saeng
Kh
lo n g S i n

Ao Luk
Key
Pu Major road
n Thung Yai
Minor road
KHAO PHANOM
BENCHA NATIONAL PARK Scenic route
Thung Song
Main railway
Nakhon Si Summit
Thammarat
AO KRABI Lam Thap
NANG
ng

a
Tr
KHLONG
THOM

Ko Phi Phi
Don
KO PHI PHI Wang Wiset
Ko Phi
Phi Ley Ko Lanta KO LANTA
Yai
Ko Lanta

Long-tail boats on a beach on Ko Poda, near Krabi

For keys to symbols see back flap
360  SOUTHERN THAILAND
Collecting water from one of Ranong’s
geothermal springs
1 Ranong

Ranong province. * 69,000. @
g ( daily. n TAT, Chumphon
(0-7750-1831).
Ranong was originally settled
in the late 18th century by
Hokkien Chinese who were
hired to work as laborers in the
region’s tin mines. The area grew
rich, and Ranong is now a major
border town. From here Thai
nationals may travel to Victoria
Point in Myanmar (Burma) on a
half- or full-day boat trip.
Referred to as Kaw Thaung by
the Burmese, the town is well
known for bargain duty-free
goods and handicrafts. Officially,
foreigners may not go to
Victoria Point without a visa,
but this is not always enforced.
In Ranong, the natural hot
springs are the main attraction.
They rise beside the Khlong
Hat Sompen River at Wat
Tapotaram, 1,100 yds (1 km)
east of the town center, and are
channeled into three concrete
Khao Sok, a wilderness of virgin forest, limestone cliffs, and waterfalls
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
tubs called Mother, Father,
and Child. At an average
temperature of 150° F (65° C),
the water is too hot for bathing.
A short walk down the river, the
Jansom Thara Spa Resort Hotel
has tapped and cooled the
water to 110° F (42° C). Those
not staying at the hotel can use
the spa for a nominal fee.
2 Khao Sok
National Park

Surat Thani province. Park HQ off
Hwy 401, 25 miles (40 km) E of
Takua Pa. n TAT, Surat Thani
(0-7728-8818) or Forestry Dept
(0-2562-0760 or ∑ dnp.go.th for
bungalow bookings). @ from Surat
Thani or Takua Pa. &
Together with nearby preserves, The coastline south of Takua
Khao Sok National Park forms the Pa consists of long stretches
largest and most dramatic tract
of virgin forest in South Thailand. Commercial development is
The 285-sq mile (738-sq km)
park rises to a height of 3,150 ft
(960 m) and includes 100
spectacular islands, formed
when the Rachabrapha Dam
was built in 1982.
Elephants, tigers,
bears, boars, and
monkeys live in the
park, along with at
least 188 species of
birds, including
hornbills and the argus
pheasant. Sightings of
the larger mammals
are usually at night Barking deer at Khao Lak Barking deer
and animal tracks, are
regularly seen along the
park’s many marked trails.
Sadly, poaching of tigers and
elephants persists despite the
efforts of national park officers.
The area is popular with tourists
eager to trek, canoe, watch
birds, and spot animals. The
park also contains interesting
flora, such as the rare giant
Rafflesia flower. Many of the
hiking trails are suitable for all
levels, with more demanding
hikes for the experienced. Khao
Sok receives the brunt of both
summer and winter monsoons,
causing a long wet season
from May to November.
The best time to visit is
between January and April.
3 Khao Lak Coast

Phangnga province. n TAT, Phuket
(0-7621-1036). @ from Takua
Pa or Phuket.
of rocky and sandy beaches.
on the rise and a variety of
accommodation can now be
found here. Khao Lak, halfway
between Takua Pa and Thai
Muang, has a fine beach
and is a good base from
which to explore the area.
The nearby Khao
Lak (Lam Ru)
National Park is
famous for its
scenery: steep
ridges of monsoon
forest extend to the
winding coast.
and small bears
are among the wildlife living in
the forest but, sadly, the park is
plagued by encroachment
and poaching.
The Similan Islands are only
4 hours away by boat, and many
visitors come here to book their
dive trips. Between November
and April, Tap Lamu fishing port
and Hat Khao Lak operate as
ferry points for Ko Similan.
Badly hit by the 2004 tsunami,
this coast has now made a
full recovery.
O Khao Lak (Lam Ru)
National Park
HQ 16 miles (25 km) S of Takua Pa.
n Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760). &

Similan’s boulders, under which are massive underwater grottoes
4 Ko Surin and Ko
Similan

Phangnga province. n TAT, Phuket
(0-7621-1036) or Forestry Dept
(0-2562-0760 or ∑ dnp.go.th for
bungalow bookings. Surin: g from
Khuraburi Pier, 1 mile (2 km) off Hwy 4.
& Similan: g from Tap Lamu, off
Hwy 4, 24 miles (39 km) S of Takua Pa;
or by diving trips from Khao Lak Coast
or Ko Phuket. Open Best time for
diving is Dec–early May. Closed mid-
May–mid-Nov. &
Ko Surin and Ko Similan,
37 miles (60 km) off the west
coast and 62 miles (100 km)
apart, are the most remote
islands in Thailand. Because of
the southwesterly monsoon,
from May to October they are
virtually inaccessible. In season,
however, the two archipelagos
offer some of the best diving
sites in the world and some of
the most spectacular wildlife
and scenery in Thailand.
The five Surin islands are
virtually uninhabited, home
only to a few sea gypsies and
national park officials. There is
a park dormitory on Ko Surin
Nua, but most people camp
on the islands.
The two largest islands, Ko
Surin Nua and Ko Surin Tai,
are heavily forested with tall
hardwood trees. Sea eagles,
monitor lizards, and crab-eating
macaques are common sights.
The surrounding sea offers an
outstanding array of soft corals
and frequent sightings of
UPPER ANDAMAN COAST  361
sub-station can be found. The
interiors of these islands consist
of crystal-white sand and lush
rainforest, while the headlands
are made up of distinctive, giant
granite boulders the size of
houses. Beneath these rocks are
underwater grottoes and swim-
through tunnels, which appeal
to divers and snorkelers.
The sea bed is decorated
with staghorn, star, and
branching corals, and a range
of fish, including manta rays,
and giant sea turtles. Other,
more threatening, fish include
giant groupers, and poisonous
stonefish, and lionfish. Sharks
around the islands include black
shovel-nose rays, bow-mouthed and white tips, leopard sharks,
guitar fish, and whale sharks.
However, overfishing has led to
hammerheads, bull sharks, and
whale sharks.
the depletion of the marine life
of Ko Surin, and many divers
maintain that the best sightings
of sealife are around the
Similans instead.
Of the nine Similan islands 4,
7, 8, and 9 were damaged by
the 2004 tsunami but are still
open to tourists and divers.
The name Similan is thought
to derive from the Malaysian
word sembilan, meaning nine,
and the islands are numbered
Ko 1 through to Ko 9. Ko 4
(Ko Miang) has the park HQ,
a restaurant, bungalows, and
campsite (with a supply of two-
person tents). Also important Diver exploring the colorful coral around
is Ko 9, where the ranger Ko Similan
The World’s Largest Flower
Khao Sok is one of the few places in the world where the giant
Rafflesia kerri grows. This foul-smelling tropical plant has no roots
or leaves and is wholly parasitic. For most of the year it lies dormant
in the form of microscopic threads inside the roots of a host tree.
Once a year, however, a small flower breaks the surface of the host’s
bark. Over a period of months the bud swells to the size of a
watermelon and eventually
opens to become the world’s
largest flower, with a diameter
up to 31 inches (80 cm).
The flower’s fetid smell
attracts insects that assist
in the pollination process.
After a few days the orange-
red flower shrivels to a
vile, unsightly, putrescent
mass. Occasionally a Rafflesia
in flower may be found at
Rafflesia flower in full bloom, Khao Sok the end of a marked path
National Park at Khao Sok.
362  SOUTHERN THAILAND

Sarasin Bridge •

5 Phuket
 Hat Sai Kaeo •

Thailand’s largest island, Phuket first became prosperous

thanks to tin production, but tourism is now the major earner.
Southeast Asia’s most popular vacation destination attracts
visitors from across the globe with its stunning beaches, Hat Mai Khao •
crystal-clear waters, and vibrant nightlife. Phuket has also
seen a huge growth in chic boutique resorts and spas.
The northern tip of the island is separated from the mainland
by only a narrow channel of sea, over which runs the 765-yard
(700-m) long Sarasin Bridge.
Hat Nai Yang •

Hat Nai Thon •

Half-Buried Buddha
Wat Phra Tong is built
around an unusual, Wat Phra Tong
gold-leafed Buddha
image, half buried in
the ground. Legend
•
Thalang
says that whoever •
tries to remove Ao Bang
it will die. Tao

Hat Pansea •

Hat Surin •

• Hat Kamala
Game fishing
Tuna, barracuda, and other fish
Phuket Kathu
are hunted from boats. waterfall •
FantaSea •

Key
Main road Hat Patong •
Minor road

• Hat Karon Noi

KEY
Wat Chalong •
1 Cape Promthep is the Hat Karon •
southernmost point on Ko Phuket.
. West Coast Beaches
The views from this rugged headland
The clearest waters, best sand,
are some of the most stunning on
and most luxurious hotels are on
the island, particularly at sunset. Hat Kata Yai •
the west coast. Patong is the most
2 The Gibbon Rehabilitation densely developed resort; Karon Hat Kata Noi •
Project in the Khao Phra Taew and Kata are quieter.
Forest Park encourages once-
domesticated gibbons to fend for
themselves in the wild. •
Hat Nai Harn • Hat
3 Phuket town is notable for its 0 kilometers 5
19th-century Sino-Portuguese-style J Rawai
0 miles 5
residences. It acts as a transit and
Ko Bon
service center.

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 PHUKET  363

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Phuket province. * 102,000.
n TAT, 191 Thalang Rd (0-7621-
1036). b Tourist Police, Yawarat
Rd (1155). _ Vegetarian Festival
(late Sep/early Oct, for nine days);
King’s Cup Regatta (Dec).
∑ phuket.com

Transport
k 18 miles (29 km) N of Phuket
Ko Ngam town. @ Phangnga Rd, Phuket
Cape Khut • town. g from Ko Phi Phi to
Phuket Deep Sea Port.

Ko Raet
Heroines’ Monument
Ko Naga Yai Two brave sisters rallied the
Ao Po women of Phuket to successfully
• Bang Pae waterfall defend the island against
Ko Naga Noi
• • Khao Phra Burmese invaders during the
•
Ton Sai Taew Forest Naga Pearl
Battle of Thalang in 1785.
waterfall Park
Farm

Thalang Museum
•

Ao Sapam
Ko Rang Yai

Ko Maphrao Yai

Ko Sirey
This small, hilly island is home to
J rubber and coconut plantations
and quiet beaches. The temple of
Wat Ko Sirey can also be found
here, on the top of a hill that
• offers wonderful views.
Ko Sire Gypsy Village

Monkey Hill
In addition to the resident
macaques, for which this
• Ao Chalong place is named, Monkey
Hill is a good spot to visit
for views and a popular
Taoist shrine.
• Phuket Deep Sea Port
Ko Phi Phi

Cape Phanwa
Ko Lone Marine Research
Center

. Marine Research Center

A well-designed aquarium at the
center includes salt- and freshwater
fish, lobsters, turtles, and mollusks.
For keys to symbols see back flap
364  SOUTHERN THAILAND

Phuket Town ( Fresh Produce Market


Phuket Town grew to prominence around the beginning of Ranong Rd. Open daily.
the 19th century, when the island’s tin resources attracted The 24-hour wet market is a
thousands of Chinese migrants. Many merchants made treat that assaults the senses.
The market and adjacent
fortunes from tin, built splendid residences, and sent their
lanes are full of colorful
children to British Penang to be educated. Hokkien- characters hawking
speaking tin-mining families soon intermarried with the condiments, dried herbs and
indigenous Thai population. Today, the bustling downtown spices, pungent pickled kapi
area retains some of its earlier charm, though, unlike most fish, squirming eels, and
of the island, it is geared toward residents rather than succulent durians.
tourists. The Chinese heritage is preserved in the Sino- Y Rang Hill
Portuguese shop-houses, temples, the local cuisine, 
and the Vegetarian Festival. On the top of this hill
overlooking the town stands
a statue of Khaw Sim Bee
Na-Ranong (1857–1913),
governor of Phuket for 12
years from 1901. He enjoyed
considerable autonomy
from Bangkok but is credited
with bringing the island
firmly under central rule,
and also with importing
the first rubber tree
into Thailand.

 Bang Niew Temple

One of the grand old Sino-Portuguese mansions in Phuket town
E Chinese Mansions
Thalang, Yaowarat, Dibuk, Krabi,
Ranong, and Phangnga roads.
The heart of Phuket town is the
old Sino-Portuguese quarter with
its spacious, if now rather run-
down, colonial-style residences
set in large grounds. Most date
from the reigns of Rama IV and
Rama V (1851–1910). Among the
best examples are those used
today as offices by the Standard
Chartered Bank and Thai
Airways on Ranong Road.
Unfortunately, no one has yet
seen fit to convert any of the
old mansions into a museum,
and none can be visited. Many
of the commercial Chinese
shop-houses are also dilapidated.
E Thavorn Hotel Lobby
Exhibition

74 Rasada Rd. Tel 0-7621-1334.
Open daily. &
The owner of this hotel in the
center of town has assembled a
collection of Phuket artifacts
and pictures that he now
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

Phuket Rd. Open daily.
This temple is where naga
devotees climb knife ladders
displays in the lobby and during the Vegetarian Festival.
adjacent function rooms. The inner compound is
Among the exhibits are models devoted to a number of
of tin mines, pictures of the Chinese mythological gods,
town center in the 19th century, the most prominent being
Chinese treasure chests, and Siew, Hok, and Lok, who
weavers’ tables, all of which are represent longevity, power,
imaginatively displayed. and happiness.
Phuket Town’s Vegetarian Festival
At the start of the ninth Chinese lunar month, Phuket town hosts
a nine-day Vegetarian Festival accompanied by gruesome rites.
The tradition began over 150 years ago when a troupe of Chinese
entertainers in Phuket recovered from the plague by adhering to
austere rituals practiced in China. Today, believers use the festival to
purge the body and soul of impure thoughts and deeds. Devotees
dress in white, follow a vegetarian diet, and refrain from alcohol and
sex. The highlight is the
parade of nagas (spirit
mediums) with their flesh
pierced by metal rods.
Other nagas climb ladders
of knives, plunge their
hands into hot oil, or walk
on burning coals. The
worse the suffering, the
greater reward for the
naga and his temple.
Nagas parading through the town
 PHUKET  365

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Phuket province. * 102,000.
n TAT, 191 Thalang Rd (0-7621-
1036/2213). b Tourist Police,
Yaowarat Rd (1155). ( daily.
_ Vegetarian Festival (early
Oct, for nine days).
Transport
@ Southern Bus Terminal,
near Phang Nga Rd.

Just east of the town, Monkey

Wat Mongkol Nimit, a typical example of Rattanakosin architecture
 Wat Mongkol Nimit

Yaowarat Rd. Open daily.
This large, Rattanakosin-style
temple has finely carved
doors. Its compound acts
as a community center
where monks play takraw
with the laity.
 Chui Tui Temple

Ranong Rd. Open daily.
A steady flow of people visit
this Chinese temple to shake
numbered sticks from a
canister dedicated to
vegetarian god Kiu Wong In.
Each number corresponds
to a preprinted fate that,
according to belief, the
person will inherit.
Hill, or Khao To Sae, offers
scenic views, some culture in
Environs the form of a Taoist shrine, and
The island of Ko Sirey is linked a population of macaques quite
to Phuket by a short bridge just accustomed to being offered
beyond the commercial fishing food. They are great fun to
port area. On this small but hilly watch, but afford them the
island, rubber and coconut respect you would any wild
plantations vie with the natural animal – don’t get too close or
fauna, and quiet beaches offer try to touch them. The Taoist
excellent seafood at low prices. shrine near the base of the hill
Atop a hill in the center of the reveres three resident spirits and
island, the temple of Wat Ko attracts many locals wishing to
Sirey has great views and a win the lottery. The hill is also
massive image of a reclining popular with fitness enthusiasts
Buddha. The island is also – the road is closed to vehicular
home to “sea gypsies,” who traffic after 5pm, making it ideal
arrived here long before the for a sunset run, and there is
current inhabitants, and do a small fitness park as well.
not speak Thai. Ko Sirey is Don’t bother trying to reach
developing though – the the summit – the views and
Westin Sirey Bay Resort, the ambience are marred
on the south of the island, somewhat by television
offers every luxury. and cell phone towers.

Phuket Butterfly Garden Thai Village, Airport

and Insect World Orchid Garden 19 miles (30 km)
Rang Hill
YA O W A R AT

TH E P K A S AT T R I
KA
EW S I MB U

CHUMPHON

Phuket Town Center

G KA
THUN
1 Rang Hill
LUAN
MAE Chinese
2 Chinese Mansions Mansions
3 Wat Mongkol Nimit
S ATO ON

T
SUTHA

Wat Mongkol
Nimit
4 Chui Tui Temple
R AT
PAT H I PA T

D IB U
5 Fresh Produce Market K
YA O W A

K R AB I
6 Thavorn Hotel Lobby THALAN
G Bus
Exhibition RANO
NG PHANG
Station
NGA
7 Bang Niew Temple RASAD
A
MONTRI

Chui Tui Ferry Port

A

Temple Fresh Produce 2 miles (3 km)

TA N

Market Thavorn Hotel

Lobby Exhibition
P H AT

FA

U A PA

AN
AO

0 meters 600 CH OEN

ING CHAR
PH
SO

I TA L ANA
CH

PO TA CH
UK

0 yards 600 O
N
ET

PH
O PHYE
L IM
G S
ON
Bang Niew
Temple
KRA

For keys to symbols see back flap

366  SOUTHERN THAILAND

Exploring Phuket
Phuket was called Junkceylon by early European traders,
but its modern name may derive from the Malay word
bukit, meaning hill. On arrival, many visitors head straight
for a beach resort and do not leave it for the duration
of their vacation – the best of the island’s beaches are
strung out along the west coast. However, there are
several historical and cultural sights to complement the
beachside attractions, and the lush, hilly interior is also
worth exploring.

Hat Patong with accommodations, and

Phuket’s most developed beach
is the 2-mile (3-km) long Hat
Patong. Once a quiet banana
plantation, it is now almost a
city by the sea. The area has a
lively nightlife, with a vibrant
mix of hotels, restaurants,
discos, and bars. During the day
there are many water activities,
such as parasailing, waterskiing,
diving, and deep-sea fishing.
Although Patong continues
to expand, the beaches along
the southern headland of
Patong bay are far quieter, such
as Freedom Beach, which is only
accessible by boat from Patong.
Hat Karon and Hat Kata
South of Patong, and almost as
popular, are the beaches
of Karon and Kata. Karon has
one long stretch of sand lined
a second beach at tiny Karon
Noi. Kata’s beaches, along
the bays of Kata Yai and Kata
Noi, are smaller and prettier,
sheltered by rocky promon-
tories. There are a number
of good restaurants on the
headland between Karon
and Kata.
Other Western Beaches
North of Patong, fringed by
palm-covered headlands, lie
the smaller beaches of Kamala,
Surin, and Pansea. Hat Kamala
is relatively undeveloped, with
some Muslim fishermen’s
houses and a few restaurants.
Just to the south, however, is
Phuket FantaSea, a huge Las
Vegas-style cultural theme
complex that hosts a spectacular
live night-time stage show with
High-rise hotel overlooking the popular,
tree-lined beach at Patong
music, dance, special effects,
and elephants.
Farther north from Hat
Kamala, Ao Bang Tao offers
a quiet, enchanting retreat,
popular with families. Fronted
by a few exclusive hotels, the
beach is good for water sports.
Round the next few
headlands are three beaches:
Hat Nai Thon, a gorgeous, un-
developed stretch; Hat Nai Yang,
which is visited by Thais on
weekends; and Hat Mai Khao,
a deserted 7.5-mile (12-km)
stretch of sand.
 Phuket FantaSea
99 Kamala Beach. Tel 0-7638-5000.
Open 5:30–11:30pm Fri–Wed. & 0

Cape Promthep, one of the best vistas on Phuket – a good place for spectacular sunsets
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 PHUKET  367

5th-century religious icons,

Sea Gypsies of the Andaman Sea Chinese porcelain, life-size
Sea gypsies, known as chao ley in Thai, may originate from the figures recreated from the
Andaman or Nicobar islands, across the Andaman Sea from Thailand. Burmese battle, and information
Phuket’s sea gypsy population settled the area around 200 years ago, on the sea gypsies.
following routes from the Mergui archipelago, west of the Burmese In Thalang itself there is a
mainland. Today, they can be found in Phuket at Rawai, Ko Sire, near good market and, nearby, Wat
Sapam village, and in northern Phuket’s villages of Laem La and Nua. Phra Tong. In the center of the
Ethnically, they comprise three groups: Moklen, Moken, and Urak wat lies a gold-covered Buddha
Lawoi. Sea gypsies live
image, half buried in the
throughout the Andaman Sea
ground. Legend has it that
at Ko Surin, Ko Phra Tong in
Phangnga, and farther south disaster will come to anyone
at the islands of Phi Phi, Lanta, who tries to move the image.
Talibong, Tarutao, and
Langkawi. They speak their E Thalang National Museum
own language and have Off Hwy 402, opposite Heroines’
animistic beliefs. Once a year Monument. Tel 0-7631-1025,
they hold a spiritual cleansing 0-7631-1426. Open daily.
ceremony, placing human Closed public hols. &
mementos on a small boat
before pushing it out to sea Khao Phra Taew Forest Park
to get rid of bad spirits. Cleaning fish, an everyday part of life for Some 2.5 miles (4 km) east of
Andaman sea gypsies Thalang is the spectacular
Khao Phra Taew Forest Park.
The preserve is important, as it
Southeastern Capes Northeast Coast preserves the last of Phuket’s
and Bays Ko Naga Noi, an island off primary rainforest.
Hat Nai Harn, a bay near the Phuket’s northeast coast, has Within the park are two fine
southern tip of Phuket, is the a tranquil, sandy beach that waterfalls. Ton Sai waterfall is
home of the exclusive Phuket makes a fine halt for swimming the prettiest and is at its best
Yacht Club. The beach (open to and relaxing. The island is from June to December. On the
all) is one of the most beautiful home to the Naga Pearl Farm, eastern fringe of the preserve
on the island. Cape whose owners give is the Bang Pae waterfall.
Promthep, 1 mile demonstrations of Near the latter is the Gibbon
(2 km) away on the the process of Rehabilitation Project. This
southern tip of culturing South volunteer-run program aims
Phuket, offers Sea pearls. to reintroduce domesticated
wonderful views, At Phuket’s gibbons into the forest by
especially at sunset. Ghost crab at northeasternmost encouraging them to fend for
North of Promthep, Marine Center point, on the Cape themselves. Visitors’ donations
on the east side of the Khut headland, there buy food for the gibbons.
island, are Hat Rawai, and are sweeping views of the
farther along, Ao Chalong. monoliths of Phangnga Bay O Khao Phra Taew Forest Park
The sands around this bay are (see pp368–71). The placid Thalang district. Open daily. &
not as white as those on the waters of the narrow channel O Gibbon Rehabilitation Project
west coast, but there are many between Phuket and Phangnga Near Bang Pae falls. Tel 0-7626-0491.
excellent seafood shacks here. province are exploited by Open daily.
Ao Chalong acts as an Muslim fishermen who farm
anchorage for international sea bass here.
yachts exploiting its sheltered
location, and is also a departure O Naga Pearl Farm
point for boat excursions to Ko Naga Noi. Open daily. &
the charming islands of Lone,
Hai, and Bon, where there is Thalang
good snorkeling. This town in central Phuket
Farther up the coast at Cape was the site of a famous battle
Phanwa is the interesting and in 1785 against the Burmese,
much-visited Phuket Aquarium, which is commemorated by
which forms part of the Marine the Heroines’ Monument 5 miles
Research Center. (8 km) to the south. A short
walk east of the monument is
O Marine Research Center the Thalang Museum, which
Tip of Cape Phanwa. Tel 0-7639-1126. outlines the rich heritage of A barrel of limes for sale at Thalang market
Open 9am–4pm daily. & Phuket. Among the exhibits are in central Phuket
368  SouTherN ThaIlaNd

6 Phangnga Bay

No one area epitomizes the splendor of the South’s landscape
as succinctly as 155-sq mile (400-sq km) Phangnga Bay.
Its scenic grandeur derives from towering limestone stacks
rising sheer from calm, shallow waters up to 1,150 ft (350 m)
high. Inside many of the 40-odd stacks are narrow tunnels
and sea caves. Inland, too, this coastal area boasts majestic,
Protected Mangroves
scrub-clad pinnacles. Phangnga is, in fact, the most spectacular
The heavily silted northern end
remnant of the once mighty Tenasserim Mountains, which of Phangnga Bay, where several
still form a spine through Thailand to China. rivers meet the sea, is Thailand’s
largest and best preserved area
of mangrove (see pp354–5).
Undercut Cliffs
The action of waves erodes
the base of the stacks at a
rate of about 3 ft (1 m)
every 5,000 years.

Cross Section
of Typical Stacks
in Phangnga Bay
The limestone landscape at
Phangnga Bay is known by geologists as
drowned karstland. Karst is characterized by
its internal drainage system, whereby water finds
its way into the interior of the limestone through
fissures, then erodes the rock from within. A riddle
of tunnels is typical; chasms and vast sea chambers
(hongs) are also common at Phangnga.

KEY

1 Fissures allow water to penetrate

and erode the limestone.
2 Caves form quickly at sea level.
Some are exposed only at low tide. Calcite Deposits
in Caves
3 The weakened roof of the Within most caves
cave will eventually collapse. are stalagmites,
4 Forest scrub clings to cracks stalactites, and other
in the limestone. structures formed
from dripping calcite.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 p h a n g n g a b ay  369

VISITorS’ CHeCklIST

Aerial view of Stacks in Phangnga Bay
The stacks at Phangnga make
striking coastal scenery.
Practical Information
Phangnga province. n TAT, Krabi
(0-7562-2163).
Transport
@ from Phuket or Krabi to
Phangnga town, then hire a long-
tail; or join ferry tour from Phuket
or Phangnga.

Isolated Stacks
There are a number of sheer,
thin stacks in the bay. These
columns of rock are splinters
of limestone that have been
heavily eroded by the sea.

How Phangnga Bay was Formed

Hard and soft Calcite turns into Fissures form from
corals limestone over rain action.
millions of years.

Gaps occur where

Deposits of calcite from calcite deposits
dead coral build up. are uneven.

130 million years ago the area was under water 75 million years ago plate movements pushed
and part of a vast coral reef. Calcite deposits from these deposits, which had turned to limestone,
dead coral built up in thick layers. out of the ocean. The rigid rock ruptured.

Meltwater from Wave action

ice caps begins sculpts the
to flood stacks.
Phangnga.

The gap erodes The cave is

into a cave. much larger.

20,000 years ago, at the end of the last Ice Age, 8,000 years ago the sea reached its highest level,
the sea level rose, flooding Phangnga. Wave and about 13 ft (4 m) above its present height,
tide action accelerated the process of erosion. sculpting a shelf, visible on most of the stacks.
370  SOUTHERN THAILAND

Exploring Phangnga Bay

Boat tours of the bay once took in the best-known sights,
such as the fishing village built over water in the shadow
of Ko Panyi, and “James Bond Island,” as well as a number of
fascinating caves. Some of the eerie caverns contain prehistoric
paintings and Buddhist shrines. Due to massive erosion
however, big tourist boats are currently banned from large
areas of Phangnga Bay. The karst scenery continues inland
to the east, where cliffs soar above hidden valleys with
cascading rivers.

Phangnga
town

. Panyi Fishing Village

About 120 Muslim families live in this village, which is built
on stilts above the water. Islanders sell fish sauce, dried
shrimp, and shrimp paste.

Suwan Kuha Cave (Wat Tham)

A reclining Buddha, tiny shrines,
and chedis are found among
stalactites and stalagmites in this
cave temple.

. James Bond Island Ko Hong

This island (Ko Khao Phing Kan) and A vast network of lagoons,
nearby Ko Tapu (“nail island”) both chasms, and tunnels runs
appeared memorably in the 1974 underneath this island.
James Bond classic, The Man With the As a conservation measure
Golden Gun. access to the area is
forbidden at present.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 P H A N G N G A B AY  371

Areas of Mangrove
It is possible to explore many
mangrove channels in a small boat
at high tide, though skillful
piloting is required. Rubber Plantations
Rubber is a major industry around
Phangnga. Latex, tapped from
rubber trees, is left to harden in
shallow trays.

Ao Luk

Tanboke Koranee National Park

In Ao Luk district, this national
park is known for its series
of miniature waterfalls amid
beautiful limestone scenery.

0 kilometers 10

0 miles 5

KEY James Bond and the Island Hideout

1 Tham Lot is a 165-ft (50-m) long
sea tunnel through limestone with
stalactites hanging from its roof.
2 Tham Hua Gralok (“skull cave”)
contains prehistoric paintings, in
black and red pigment, of humans
and strange animals.
3 Ko Phanak contains a number of
sea hongs with vegetation-clad walls
and marooned snakes and monkeys.
In the film The Man With the Golden Gun (1974), James Bond
(Roger Moore) comes to the Orient in search of the villain
Scaramanga (Christopher Lee).
Bond is eventually taken
to Scaramanga’s hideout,
an island just off China.
In fact, the island seen is Ko
Khao Phing Kan in Phangnga
Bay; the sheer rock nearby,
containing the secret
weapon, is Ko Tapu. Scaramanga and Bond

Aerial view of Ko Hong, Phangnga Bay

374  southern thailand
7 Khao Phanom
Bencha National
Park

Krabi province. Park HQ off Hwy 4,
12.5 miles (20 km) N of Krabi. n TAT,
Krabi (0-7562-2163); Forestry Dept
(0-2562-0760); Park HQ (0-7566-0716). Ao Nang sees the arrival of
@ Krabi, then local bus. &
This 193-sq mile (500-sq km)
national park of mostly tropical
monsoon forest is named
for the five-shouldered peak
of Khao Phanom Bencha,
which rises to a height of
4,580 ft (1,397 m).
Despite illegal logging
and poaching, the
park’s rainforest
still holds at least
156 species of bird,
including the white-
crowned hornbill and
the striped wren-
babbler. Among the
Clouded leopard in Khao
32 mammal species
Phanom Bencha
catalogued are the
Asiatic black bear,
Malaysian sun bear, clouded
leopard, wild boar, binturong,
and serow.
The thundering Huay To
waterfall and Huay Sadeh
waterfall are located less than
2 miles (3 km) from the park
headquarters. Park attendants
can arrange treks to the
summit. The climb is difficult
but rewarding – from the top
there are spectacular views of
the surrounding forest.
Idyllic bay within the Phi Phi-Hat Nopparat Thara National Marine Park
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
8 Ao Nang

11 miles (18 km) W of Krabi town,
Krabi province. n TAT, Krabi (0-7562-
2163). @ Krabi, then songthaew.
From November to April,
thousands of tourists attracted
by the spectacular scenery,
pristine beaches, and laid-
back atmosphere.
Until the early 1980s, fishing
and coconut and rubber
plantations were the mainstay
for the Muslim villagers at Ao
Nang. Today the 1-mile (2-km)
sandy beach sports a growing
number of hotels, seafood
restaurants, scuba diving
outlets, and canoe
tour companies.
Visitors can rent a sea
canoe to paddle in
the turquoise waters
in the shadow of
the 330-ft (100-m)
rocky eastern end
of the bay. Nearby
is uncrowded Pai Plong beach.
In season, Ao Nang is a pleasant
base for day trips by long-tail
boat to the striking Railay-Phra
Nang headland, 2 miles (3 km)
to the southeast. Its sheer
limestone cliffs, pure white
sand, and emerald sea attract
many visitors.
Hat Phra Nang, west of the
Phra Nang headland, is the
most attractive beach in the
area. Rising above it is a high
Strolling along a beach on Ko Poda, a small
island near Ao Nang
limestone cliff into which Tham
Phra Nang Nok (“outer princess
cave”) is carved. Inside is a
shrine to the lost spirit of a
princess, Phra Nang, whose ship
allegedly sank near the beach in
the 4th century BC. Today, local
fishermen place offerings of
incense, fruit, and water at the
shrine to bring them a plentiful
catch. Inside the cliff is Sa Phra
Nang, a lagoon reached by a
steep path.
Flanking Phra Nang are the
white sand beaches of East and
West Railay, the latter being
much finer. There are boats from
West Railay and Phra Nang
beaches to Ko Poda, southwest
of Phra Nang, where striped
tiger fish can be fed by hand
from the shallow shore, and
Ko Hua Khwan, or Chicken
Island, located farther south.
Both islands offer excellent
diving and snorkeling.
On Ko Hong, 16 miles (25 km)
northwest of Ao Nang, the
prized nests of the edible-nest
swiftlet (see p345) are collected
from the island’s intricate
network of caves.
The headquarters of the Phi
Phi-Hat Nopparat Thara
National Marine Park, to the
west of Ao Nang, overlook
stunning beaches. The park
covers an area of 150 sq miles
(390 sq km), which includes Ko
Phi Phi (see pp376–7), Ko Mai
Phai, and Ko Yung (also known
as Ko Mosquito).
O Phi Phi-Hat Nopparat Thara
National Marine Park
Park HQ 2 miles (3 km) W of Ao Nang.
n TAT, Krabi office (0-7562-2163).
@ Krabi, then songthaew.
 upper andaman Coast  375

9 Krabi

Krabi province. * 68,000. @
g k n TAT, Maharat Rd,
Krabi (0-7562-2163). ( daily.
∑ tourismthailand.org/krabi

This small fishing town, the

capital of beautiful Krabi
province, has an important role
as the ferry embarkation point
for islands such as Ko Lanta to
the south, Ko Phi Phi to the Swimmers enjoying a hot spring spa in the forest near Khlong Thom
southwest, and the beaches
around Ao Nang to the west. main hall, where meditation is 0 Khlong Thom
Set on the banks of the Krabi practiced, built inside a cave.
Estuary, the town takes its name A circular path in the nearby

from a sword, or krabi, allegedly forest hollow offers a pleasant Krabi province. * 60,000. @ n TAT,
discovered nearby. It is walk among towering, Krabi (0-7562-2163). ( daily.
surrounded by towering buttressed trees and kutis,
limestone outcrops, similar to simple huts inhabited by Some 25 miles (40 km) south
those in Phangnga Bay (see monks and nuns. A 985-ft-high of Krabi town, Khlong Thom is
pp368–71), which have become staircase (300-m) leads to a large known locally for the small
the symbol of Krabi province. Buddha image and Buddha museum within Wat Khlong
Among the most notable are Footprint on top of the cliff. Thom. The temple’s abbot has
Kanap Nam twin limestone From here there are panoramic assembled an array of
peaks, which stand like sentinels views of the province. archaeological icons and
at each side of the river. To the weapons from the area. One of
east, the town is flanked by the most interesting exhibits is a
mangrove-lined shorelines. collection of distinctive beads
These outcrops and mangroves called lukbat.
can be toured by renting a A maritime port, Kuan Lukbat,
long-tail boat from the Chao Fa was once located on the site
pier in the center of town. of Khlong Thom. From the
5th century AD onward, the
Environs port was used by foreign
Located 5 miles (8 km) north of merchants and emissaries
town is Wat Tham Sua (“tiger crossing the peninsula to
cave temple”), named after a Nakhon Si Thammarat and Surat
rock formation that resembles Thani (see pp350–51). Few
a tiger paw. It is one of the traders wanted to sail through
most renowned forest wats in Buddha image on the cliff top by Wat Tham the treacherous, pirate-infested
Southern Thailand, with the Sua, Krabi province Straits of Malacca, so they
traveled overland instead.
Climbing Krabi’s Stacks Environs
Krabi and Ko Phi Phi are the only places in Thailand where A bumpy 7.5-mile (12-km) ride
organized rock-climbing takes place. The honeycombed limestone inland from Khlong Thom leads
stacks around the Phra Nang headland, near Krabi, and Ko Phi Phi to a natural hot spring in the
offer challenging conditions and attract rock climbers from around forest – ideal for swimming.
the world. Only the south of About 5 miles (8 km) farther
France is said to offer such on is the rewarding Tung Tieo
arduous climbs. They vary in forest trail in Khao No Chuchi
difficulty from an easy “4” lowland forest. The well-marked
according to the French system,
paths lead through this protected
to a very difficult “8b.” Climbers
area, skirting emerald pools
can cool off with a swim
between climbs. along the way. The surrounding
woodland is the only known
area in the world where the
colorful ground-dwelling
Climber on Thaiwand Wall, Tham Phra Gurney’s pitta survives.
Nang near Ao Nang Previously, this bird was
thought to be extinct.
376  SOUTHERN THAILAND
q Ko Phi Phi

Krabi province. * 7,700. g from
Phuket or Krabi. n TAT, Phuket
(0-7621-2213). _ Chinese New Year
(Feb), Songkran (Apr), Loy Krathong
(Nov). ∑ phi-phi.com
Spectacular Ko Phi Phi,
pronounced “PP,” 25 miles
(40 km) south of Krabi town,
is in fact two separate islands:
Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Ley.
Both islands belong to the
Phi Phi-Hat Nopparat Thara
National Park, which also
takes in part of the mainland
near Ao Nang (see p374).
The islands are famed for
their spectacular landscapes.
Rock climbers are attracted
by the breathtaking cliffs (see
p375), with tall sheer walls of
limestone rising to 1,030 ft
(314 m) on Phi Phi Don, and
1,230 ft (374 m) on Phi Phi Ley.
Nature lovers will find a haven
in the islands’ coral beds,
teeming with sea life.
Phi Phi Don
The two sections of Phi Phi Don,
the larger of the two islands, are
linked by a 1,100-yard (1,000 m)
isthmus of sand. Here stands
the island’s original Muslim
fishing village, Ban Ton Sai.
This area was badly damaged
by the 2004 tsunami but the
reconstruction work was
completed quickly. Since
development began on Phi Phi
Don following the arrival of the
A typical view of Ko Phi Phi’s stunning scenery, now enjoyed by large numbers of vacationers
For keys to symbols see back flap
• Ban Laem Tong
• Laem Tong
Phi Phi Don
J Key
Trail
• Ban Ton Sai
Hat Yao •
0 kilometers 2
0 miles 1
Krabi
Phuket coastal walk from Ban Ton Sai
leads to Hat Yao (“long beach”),
with tantalizing white sands,
vibrant offshore marine life, and
unhindered views of the soaring
flanks of Phi Phi Ley, 2.5 miles
(4 km) away.
• Viking Cave It is also worth climbing the
steep trails on Phi Phi Don’s two
massifs, which afford wonderful
Phi Phi Ley vistas of the island. The eastern
route is well marked and the
Ao least strenuous.
Maya •
Superb coral beds at Hin Pae
off Hat Yao, and at Ko Phai
(“bamboo island”), to the
first visitors in the 1970s, the northeast of Phi Phi Don,
island has given itself up to provide some of the best diving
tourism. However, there is still and snorkeling in Thailand.
plenty of natural beauty to To the north is Ban Laem
enjoy here. A pleasant one-hour Tong. This village’s sea gypsy

One of Ko Phi Phi’s enticing, dazzling,
white-sand beaches
population still survives on fish
caught in the isolated coves of
nearby Laem Tong.
Phi Phi Ley
Unlike Phi Phi Don, Phi Phi Ley
remains uninhabited and
unspoiled. Boats from Phi Phi
Don bring visitors on day trips
to see the paintings in Viking
Cave. Another feature of the
cave are the nests of the edible-
nest swiftlet (see p345), which
are used in bird’s-nest soup.
Agile collectors climb rickety
bamboo scaffolding to
reach the nests, which are so
valuable that the caves are
protected by armed guards and
staying overnight on the island
is prohibited. There is excellent
snorkeling at the coral reefs of
Ao Maya.
Environs
Many of the islands in the
area shelter endangered bird
species such as the white-
bellied sea eagle and the
mukimaki flycatcher.
w Ko Lanta

Krabi province. * 26,000. g from
Krabi or Bo Muang. n TAT, Krabi
(0-7562-2163).
Close to the mainland in the
southeast corner of Krabi
province, Ko Lanta is a group of
52 islands, 15 of which belong
to the Ko Lanta National Marine
Park. Most of the wildlife can
UPPER ANDAMAN COAST  377
Cave Paintings of the Andaman Islands
There are many prehistoric paintings in Phangnga (see pp368–71) and
Krabi (see p375) provinces, especially in caves on the Andaman Islands.
Most are stylized red and black outlines depicting human forms,
hands, fish, and, in some cases, broken line patterns that are thought
to have had symbolic value. Some of the unidentifiable images are of
monstrous beings – half-human, half sea-creatures – that still mystify
archaeologists. Such paintings may have been drawn as part of
magical-religious rituals to bring good fortune for hunting, fishing,
food gathering, and tribal battles. Many paintings can be reliably
dated to Neolithic
times, but the
drawings of junklike
boats at Phangnga
Bay and in the
misleadingly named
Viking Cave on Phi Phi
Ley may be only a few
hundred years old.
Paintings of boats in a cave
at Phangnga Bay
be found on the smaller, The Laem Kaw Kwang
remoter islands. The ramshackle headland in the northwest
wooden port of Ban Sala Dan is of the island has views across
the gateway to Ko Lanta Yai, a to Ko Phi Phi. At the southern
predominantly Muslim fishing tip, a 2-mile (3-km) coastal
island. Some 15 miles (25 km) trail leads to a solar-powered
long, this is the main island in lighthouse on a steep
the archipelago, and it is promontory beside the
covered with undulating park headquarters.
forested hills sweeping down Sea gypsies inhabit the
to numerous west-facing nearby village, Ban Sangka-u.
sandy bays. The natural beauty They are renowned for their
of the island has attracted colorful rituals, such as the loi
many resorts, and Ko Lanta Yai rua ceremony. As part of the
is now popular with tourists, festivities, a 6-ft (2-m) replica
although there are still some boat is sent out to sea to
lovely unspoiled beaches banish the ill fate built up
to explore. throughout the past year.
Bungalow accommodations on the island of Ko Lanta
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 southern thailand  379

DEEP SOUTH
the deep south of thailand has more in common with Malaysia
than with the distant thai heartland to the north. Many visitors
come here to experience the region’s distinct culture, dialect, and
food, and to learn about the local history and religion. the scenery,
with spectacular mountains in the interior of the peninsula and
unspoiled beaches and islands on the west coast, is equally alluring.

In many ways Thailand’s Deep South is one of the most revered

doesn’t feel like Thailand at all.
The influence of Indian, Chinese, and
Malaysian culture can be seen in the
region’s architecture and ethnic makeup.
Skin tones are noticeably darker than
the rest of the country. The population
speaks an unusually intonated dialect
of Thai, and Yawi, a language related to
Malay and Indonesian. Also, the food is
spicier, characterized by often bitter
curries laced with turmeric.
South of Songkhla, especially near
the coasts, most people are Muslim,
and the minarets of mosques replace
the gilded peaks of Buddhist temples.
Indeed, Pattani, an important Malay
kingdom in the 17th century, is still
a center of Islamic scholarship. Even
so, Wat Phra Mahathat in Nakhon Si
Thammarat, the South’s cultural capital,
Buddhist temples in Thailand. Also,
numerous Hindu shrines and customs,
not least the Hindu-inspired manohra
dance, are evidence of Nakhon’s role
as a major religious center on the ocean
trade routes between India and China.
Modern Songkhla has become the
educational capital of the South.
Nearby Hat Yai has grown from an
agricultural service and railroad town
into an important shopping and
entertainment center. However, tourism
in the area remains low-key due to
spiraling separatist violence perpetrated
by Muslim extremists seeking local
autonomy. In the troubled southern
provinces of Songkhla, Pattani, Yala,
and Narathiwat, hostilities are ongoing,
and tourists are advised against all but
essential travel in these areas.

Pattani Grand Mosque, one of many mosques in the Deep South

Some of the 173 smaller chedis surrounding the monumental Chedi Phra Baromathat at Wat Phra Mahathat, Nakhon Si Thammarat
380  SOUTHERN THAILAND

Exploring the Deep South Surat Thani

Tha Sala
The eastern lowlands of the Deep South are among
Surat Thani
the most fertile in the country. Year-round heat and
high humidity are ideal conditions for fast-growing
NAKHON SI
coffee beans, pineapples, cashews, rambutans, and THAMMARAT
oil and rubber palms. The South’s commercial Pak
Phanang
capital, Hat Yai, is in this region, but Nakhon Si
Thammarat and Songkhla are the cultural centers. Thung Song
In the west, the Trang coast and Tarutao archipelago
Ron Phibun
both have fine sand beaches, spectacular corals, and few
visitors by virtue of undeveloped tourist facilities. The east

at
-u
a
coast offers fewer natural attractions, but charming towns Ch
such as Songkhla are well worth visiting. The three Cha Uat
provinces south of Hat Yai – Yala, Pattani, and
Narathiwat – are strongly influenced by Muslim THALE NOI
Krabi WATERFOWL PARK
Malaysia. The differences in language, cuisine, and Huai Yot

Thale
religion are obvious even to casual visitors. Densely
ang
forested mountains near the Malaysian border Tr PHATTHALUNG Lam

Lua
shelter tigers, elephants, and other wildlife. TRANG Pam

ng
Pak Meng Khao Ron Chong Ke
1350m
Ko Ngai

BA
Kantang

NT
Ko Muk
HAT CHAO MAI
NATIONAL PARK

HA
Ko Kradan
Pa Bon

T
TRANG’S Ko
ANDAMAN ISLANDS Libong
Palian
M Rattaphum
Yong Sata OU
Thung Wa NT
AI

L a-N gu
NS

Pak Bara

THALE BAN
NATIONAL PARK
Minaret of Friday Mosque, Ko
T A R U T A O N A T I O N A L Tarutao Satun
Nakhon Si Thammarat
Ko Rawi MARINE PARK
Tha Malang
Ko Adang
Ko Lipey
Sights at a Glance
1 Nakhon Si Thammarat pp382–3
2 Trang’s Andaman Islands
3 Hat Chao Mai National Park
4 Trang
5 Banthat Mountains
6 Phatthalung
7 Thale Noi Waterfowl Park
8 Songkhla
9 Hat Yai
0 Thale Ban National Park
q Tarutao National Marine Park
w Pattani
e Yala
r Betong
t Narathiwat
Typically deserted beach in the Tarutao archipelago

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 DEEP SOUTH  381

Getting Around
Hat Yai is the main transportation hub of
the Deep South. The 580-mile (930-km)
trip to Hat Yai from Bangkok takes about
14 hours by bus and 17 by train. Most of
the other big towns have bus and rail
connections. Highways 4 and 41 are the
major north-south roads. Most roads are
paved, and local buses run to many sights.
There are six small regional airports.
Many Singaporeans and Malaysians visit
the area on tours; most other visitors are
independent travelers. A rental car is the
easiest way to get around. The west coast
islands can be reached from Pak Meng,
Pak Bara, and Kantang.
G
U
LF

Fishing village in Narathiwat province

Sathing
Phra
O

Key
F

Major road
T
H Minor road
Thale Sap A
Songkhla SONGKHLA IL Scenic route
Ko Yo AN Main railway
D International border
Summit
HAT YAI
PATTANI
Chana
Thepha Panare
Nong Chik
Na Thawi
Saiburi
Mayo
Thep a

Sadao
Wat YALA
Khuha Phimuk
Ba Cho
Kabang
NARATHIWAT
Pa

Yi-Ngo
Sa
ttan

ibu
i

ri

Tak Bai
Bannang Sata

Sungai
Bang Lang Kolok
Dam

0 kilometers 50

0 miles 25 To Mo

BETONG

For keys to symbols see back flap

382  southern thailand

1 Nakhon Si Thammarat

although nakhon si thammarat is featured on few tourist
itineraries, the most historic town in the south is a lively center
with several attractions. under the name of ligor, it is thought
to have been the capital of tambralinga, a peninsular kingdom
prior to the 7th century. From the 7th–13th centuries it was
an important city of the srivijaya empire (see pp350–51),
when it became a religious center with the sanskrit name
nagara sri dhammaraja, meaning “city of the sacred dharma
king.” Many indian traders settled in nakhon – as the town
is popularly known – and hindu shrines are a feature here, The relaxing way to take in Nakhon’s sights
together with nang talung shadow puppet plays (see p389)
E Nakhon Si Thammarat
and intricately etched nielloware (see p437).
National Museum

 Wat Phra Mahathat The Wihan Luang chapel Rachadamnoen Rd, 1.5 miles (2.5 km)
 has an intricately painted S of train station. Tel 0-7534-1075.
Rachadamnoen Rd, 1 mile (2 km) 18th-century ceiling, although Open Wed–Sun.
S of train station. Open daily. the Wihan Phra Ma hall is Closed public hols. & 8
Wat Phra Mahathat is one of perhaps more impressive. The centerpiece of this branch
Thailand’s most sacred temples. It features an elaborate, of the National Museum is the
Although its age is disputed, emerald-inlay door from the 9th-century statue of Vishnu in
the wat is thought to be at least Sukhothai period, carved the Pala style of South India.
1,500 years old. The present chedi with the figures of Phrom It was found in the base of a
dates from the 13th century and and Vishnu. A small museum tree in Kapong district near
was supposedly built to house displays an evocative but Takua Pha in Phangnga, then a
relics of the Buddha that were unlabeled selection of major transit point for Indians
brought here from Sri Lanka. It is archaeological finds, colonizing the south.
255 ft (77 m) high and topped jewelry, and religious Two rare bronze drums made
with gold variously estimated to sculptures including by the Dong Son people of
weigh between 1,350 and Dvaravati pieces from the northern Vietnam are another
2,200 lbs (600 and 1,000 kg). 6th to 13th centuries. highlight. The Thai gallery
displays religious art from
Dvaravati and Srivijayan periods
to the Rattanakosin era. Look
out for Buddha images in the
distinctive local Sing style,
characterized by stumpy
features and animated faces.

= Shadow Puppet Theater

(Suchart House)

10/18 Si Thammasok Soi 3.
Tel 0-7534-6394. Open daily. &
The nang talung workshop of
Suchart Subsin keeps alive a
uniquely Southeast Asian form
of entertainment in danger of
dying out. Visitors can watch the
puppets being cut from leather
and buy the finished product.
Sometimes impromptu shows
are staged.

 Ho Phra I-suan (Shiva)


Rachadamnoen Rd. Open daily.
In the hall of this shrine is a 3-ft
The gold-topped chedi of Nakhon’s splendid Wat Phra Mahathat (1-m) shivalinga, a phallic image
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
 deep south  383

of the Hindu god Shiva,  Ho Phra Narai ViSiTOrS’ CheCkliST

that may date back to the 
6th century AD. The worship Rachadamnoen Rd. Open daily.
of Shiva was a potent force in Five lingas (phallic sculptures)
the early peninsular city-states discovered on the site of this
of the first millennium AD. shrine may date from before
AD 1000. They are now in the
 Ho Phra Buddha Sihing Wat Mahathat Museum.

Rachadamnoen Rd. Open Wed–Sun. = Tha Chang Road
The Phra Buddha Sing is one of 
Thailand’s most revered images. The tradition of gold and silver
The replica kept in this shrine is shops along this road dates
of an original cast in Sri Lanka in from 1804, when migrants from
AD 157 and brought to Nakhon Saiburi district moved to
at the end of the 13th century. Nakhon. Only skilled
Local artisans put their gold- and silversmiths
characteristic stamp on the were allowed to settle
Buddha by giving it a half here, to the west of
smile, a rounder face, and a full Sanam Na Muang
chest. It is similar to Buddha parade ground.
images in Wat Phra Sing in
Chiang Mai. T Ancient City Wall
& North Gate

Just E of Rachadamnoen Rd. nielloware pot Association of
The ancient city wall
originally contained an area
440 yds by 2,450 yds (400 m by
2,230 m). The red brick North
Gate is a reconstruction.
 Wat Sao Thong Tong

Rachadamnoen Rd. Open daily.
Ho Phra Buddha Sing, home of the sacred Adjoining the compound
Phra Buddha Sing image of Wang Tawan Tok temple,
Practical Information
Nakhon Si Thammarat province.
* 147,000. n TAT, Sanam Na
Muang, Rachadamnoen Rd,
Nakhon Si Thammarat (0-7534-
6516). ( daily. _ Tenth Lunar
Month Festival (Sep/Oct).
Transport
~ 9 miles (15 km) N of
Nakhon. £ Yommarat Rd.
@ off Karom Rd.
this wat’s main attraction is the
Southern Thai wooden
house, started in 1888
and finished in 1901.
It is actually three
houses joined together
and features delicately
carved wooden door
panels, gables, and
window surrounds.
Typical The Architects’
Thailand gave a
conservation award to the
building in 1993.
( Bovorn Bazaar

Rachadamnoen Rd. Open daily.
The city center bazaar is a
peaceful courtyard and popular
meeting place with cafés, bars,
and two good restaurants.

Airport
9 miles (15 km) Nakhon Si Thammarat Town Center
PH
AT
H 1 Bovorn Bazaar 4 Ancient City Wall &
AN
AK 2 Wat Sao Thong Tong North Gate
AN
KH 3 Tha Chang Road 5 Ho Phra I-suan (Shiva)
ON
ID

U
TK

6 Ho Phra Narai
KH

KW
WA

AN
NA

G
AN

G 7 Ho Phra Buddha Sing

K

H-
PA

BO

8 Shadow Puppet Theater

T
IA

Bovorn Bazaar 9 Wat Phra Mahathat

AN

Wat Sao
Thong Tong
PH

PH
RA AT
C SI HA
H PR
NA
YO A AT
Train MM D KA
A Ancient City Wall
Station AR M N
AT N & North Gate KH
O U
EN
AM

KW
Ho Phra AN
NG

Bus TH G
A Narai
NG

Terminal CH
M

AN
NA

G
RO
KA

Ho Phra
I-suan (Shiva)
Ho Phra SI
Kh TH
lon Buddha Sing AM Shadow
gT SI MA Puppet Theater
aW TH
ang AM SO
MA R A CH
K
RA AD
T AM
NO
Wat Phra EN
0 meters 500 Mahathat
0 yards 500
National Museum,
PHATTHALUNG

For keys to symbols see back flap

384  southern thailand
Lush lowland scenery at Hat Chao Mai National Park
2 Trang’s Andaman
Islands

Trang province. g long-tail from
Kantang to Ko Muk, Ko Kradan and Ko
Libong, and from Pak Meng to Ko Hai
and Ko Muk. n TAT, Trang (0-7521-
5867); Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760).
Tourist development has barely
touched the 50 or so small
islands off the coast of Trang
province. Their stunning sands,
pristine corals, and rich bird and National Park
marine life remain the preserve
of a handful of solitude seekers.
Forested Ko Hai, or Ko Ngai,
is the island most easily reached beaches, accessed
from Pak Meng on the mainland through caves
and offers the widest choice of
accommodation. There are
wonderful beaches, particularly
on the east coast, and
magnificent coral offshore.
Ko Muk, 5 miles (8 km)
southeast of Ko Hai, is best
known for Tham Morakhot
(“emerald cave”) on its west
coast. A long limestone tunnel
leads from the sea to an inl
and beach surrounded by
vegetation-clad cliffs. It can be
entered only by boat at low tide.
Arguably the most beautiful
and remotest of Trang’s
Andaman islands, Ko Kradan
offers white sand beaches and
good snorkeling.
Farther south and close to
the mainland, Ko Libong is
the largest of the islands. It is
famed for its spectacular birdlife,
which is at its best during March
and April.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
3 Hat Chao Mai
National Park

Trang province. n TAT, Trang
(0-7521-5867); Forestry Dept (0-2562-
0760 inc bungalow bookings).
@ from Trang to Kantang, then
songthaew.
Around 31 miles (50 km) west
of Trang town, the varied
coastal landscape of
Hat Chao Mai
includes mangrove
creeks, coastal
karsts, and hidden
around Yao and
Yongling beaches.
The casuarina trees
lining Pak Meng beach in
the north of the park is popular. Khaw Sim Bee Na-Ranong, the
This is also the main departure
point for boat tours around
Trang’s islands, nine of which
Tranquil landing pier on the estuary of the Trang River
are also under park control.
Dugongs can sometimes be
spotted between the mainland
and the islands.
4 Trang

Trang province. * 83,000. ~ £
@ n TAT, Trang (0-7521-5867).
( daily. _ Vegetarian Festival (Oct).
Trang has been a trading
center since at least the
1st century AD. It grew to
prosperity between the 7th
and 13th centuries during the
Srivijaya period and remains an
important commercial town
today. Rubber, palm oil, and
fishing are the mainstays of its
economy. Tourism has not yet
made much impact, although
this may change if Trang’s
Andaman islands start to be
more intensively developed.
The town has a strong
Chinese character (and good
Chinese restaurants) as a result
of an influx of immigrant labor
in the latter half of the
19th century. Trang’s
Vegetarian Festival,
mirroring its better-
known counterpart
on the island of
Phuket (see p364),
is renowned for the
intensity of its ascetic
Tuk-tuk in Trang rites, which include
town body piercing.
A monument to
first governor of Trang from
1890 to 1901, stands in the
Fitness Park at the eastern end
 Deep South  385

of Phatthalung Road. The statue

attracts many merit-makers,
especially on April 10, the day
dedicated to the former
governor. The Clarion MP
Hotel is notable for being
partially built in the shape of
an ocean liner.

Environs
Trang province was dependent
on tin mining until the first
rubber tree seedlings were
brought into Thailand around
1901. The first rubber tree can
still be seen in Kantang, 14 miles
(22 km) southwest of Trang,
near a small museum dedicated
to Khaw Sim Bee Na-Ranong.
Boats run from Kantang to
many of the nearby islands.
Slender rubber trees in one of Trang
province’s many plantations
Dense rainforest on the steep slopes of the Banthat Mountains
These ethnically unique Negrito
people speak a language related
to Mon-Khmer. Traditionally
they live in groups of 10 to 30
in simple lean-to leaf and grass
shelters near running water,
and hunt with poison blow
darts. Forest clearance and
exposure to lowland culture has
led to some Sakai becoming
agricultural laborers.
The mountains are also
home to many amphibian and
reptile species, including dwarf
geckos and wrinkled frogs.
Rare birds include hornbills,
spiderhunters, hawk cuckoos,
and the narcissus flycatcher.
A worthwhile excursion is to
the Khao Chong Nature and
Wildlife Study Center, 12 miles
(20 km) east of Trang off
Highway 4. It contains an
impressive open zoo and two
waterfalls. Just to the south,
a bird sanctuary at Khlong
Lamchan has a reservoir that
attracts many species of duck.
The minor road heading
south along the western flanks
of the Banthat Mountains gives
access to a series of spectacular
waterfalls, caves, and shady
picnic places. Highlights
include the huge Ton Tay falls,
the spray rainbow that often
forms by mid-afternoon over
the Sairung falls, and the
stalactites and stalagmites of
Tham Chang Hai (“lost
elephant cave”) near Muansari
village in Nayong district.
Much farther south, and easily
accessible from Satun, is the
spectacular Thale Ban National
Park (see p392).

5 Banthat
Mountains

Trang province. n TAT, Trang (0-7521-
5867); Forestry Dept (0-2562-0760).
The verdant Banthat Mountains,
which run down the peninsula
as far as the Malaysian border,
mark the eastern boundary of
Trang province.
The forested higher elevations
of the mountains, which rise to
4,430 ft (1,350 m) at Khao Ron,
are one of the few places in
South Thailand where the
Sakai tribe still maintain their
hunter-gatherer existence.
Dugongs
The once common dugong, or
sea cow, was brought to the brink
of extinction in Thai waters by
hunting and by accidental
drowning in commercial fishing
nets. Today numbers are slowly
increasing. The area around the
Trang islands of the Andaman
Sea is one of the few places they
can be spotted. These herbivores
feed on the seagrass beds
around Ko Libong and the Trang
Estuary. They grow up to 10 ft
(3 m) long and can weigh
880 lbs (400 kg). In local folklore,
the tears of a dugong act as a The dugong – a rare, gentle giant now
love potion. protected by law
Palm huts on the beach at Ko Hai, a small island off the coast of Trang province
388  southern thailand

6 Phatthalung

Phatthalung province. * 81,000.
£ @ g n TAT, Hat Yai (0-7423-
1055). ( daily. _ Phon Lak Phra
Competition (3 days in Oct or Nov).

One of the few rice-growing

areas in Southern Thailand,
Phatthalung province has
earned a steady income from
the crop throughout its history.
It is better known, though, as
the place where nang talung
(shadow puppetry) was first
performed in Thailand – the
name nang talung may even
derive from Phatthalung.
This popular form of theater,
related to Indonesian shadow
puppetry, is performed mainly
in Phatthalung and Nakhon Si
Thammarat provinces.
Phatthalung town was
established in the 19th century
during the reign of Rama III
(see pp68–9). Today’s modern
town is set out in a grid and is
surrounded by limestone hills
to the north and the fertile
Thale Luang lake to the east.
Phatthalung lies between
two attractive peaks: Khao Ok
Talu (“punctured chest
mountain”) to the northeast,
and Khao Hua Taek (“broken
head mountain”) to the
northwest. According to local
legend, these two mountains,
“the mistress” and “the wife,”
fought over Khao Muang (the
male mountain), located to the
north. It is said that they still
nurse their battle scars from
this confrontation. In fact, Khao
Ok Talu has a naturally
Khao Ok Talu (“punctured chest mountain”) overlooking Phatthalung
occurring tunnel in its peak
(the punctured chest), while
Khao Hua Taek has a dent in
its peak (the broken head).
In the latter are the Buddhist
grottoes of Wat Tham Kuha
Sawan. Inside the lower cave
are statues of monks and the
Buddha, while the upper cave
has views of Khao Ok Talu and
most of Phatthalung and the
surrounding area.
Environs
Lush rice fields surround
Phatthalung. At Lam Pam, a
small fishing village 4 miles
(6 km) east of Phatthalung,
slow-flowing canals empty
into the large Thale Luang
inland sea. The breezy but
peaceful area at Sansuk beach
has a few restaurants serving
good seafood. Boats can be
hired to the nearby islands,
Ko Si and Ko Ha.
One mile (2 km) before Lam
Pam is Wat Wang, Phatthalung’s
oldest temple, thought to
have been founded at the same
time as the town. Next to the
chedi is a bot with faded murals
depicting Buddhist and
Ramakien (see pp44–5) themes.
The restored Governor’s
Palace occupies a peaceful
site nearby. Built in 1889, the
palace comprises two
individual buildings. The
outer teak structure, nearer
the road, functioned as living
quarters for the governor’s
family. The main building,
beside the river, is built
around a courtyard with a
large tree.

E Governor’s Palace
Hwy 4047, 2 miles (4 km) E of
Phatthalung. Open 8:30am–
The elevated structures of the Governor’s Palace in Lam Pam 4pm daily.

For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

 deep south  389

7 Thale Noi
Waterfowl Park

20 miles (32 km) NE of Phatthalung,
Phatthalung province. n TAT, Hat Yai
(0-7423-1055); Forestry Dept, Bangkok
(0-2562-0760) ∑ dnp.go.th @ from
Phatthalung, then hire a long-tail.
Open 8:30am–4pm daily. &

The largest wetland bird

sanctuary in Thailand, this
park serves as a resting and
feeding ground for thousands
of exotic migratory birds flying
to Sumatra and Australia to
escape winter in Siberia and
China. The best way to explore
the watery preserve, covering
12 sq miles (30 sq km), is by
long-tail boat, which can
be hired from Phatthalung
for a two-hour round trip.
Thale Noi has the
appearance of a swamp,
but it is predominantly a
freshwater lake, with a
depth of up to 5 ft (1.5 m). White-throated October to December
Only in periods of high
southerly winds does
the lake become brackish,
when saltier water from
Long-tail boat at Thale Noi Waterfowl Park
Thale Luang and Songkhla
Lake to the south is pushed
northward. Dawn is the best
time for bird-watching,
especially between the
months of January and
April. Many of the 150 or so
species of birds who visit the
park arrive during this time,
swelling its population to as
much as 100,000. In May
the population begins to
shrink, and from
kingfisher there are only small
numbers of native
species left. A viewing platform
in the lake is the ideal place for
bird-watching. Among the
birds here are the purple
swamp hen, bronze-winged
jaćana, whistling teal, white-
throated kingfisher, the long-
legged nok i-kong, and the
white ibis and gray heron.
One of the major forms
of vegetation in the park is
don kok, a reed which the nok
i-kong use to build “platforms”.
Around 100 families live
along the shores of Thale
Noi, mostly in raised wooden
houses. They make a
living from fishing and by
weaving bulrush reeds
into mats.

Shadow Puppets – Nang Talung

Nang talung is the popular Thai version of
shadow puppetry, an art form that originated
as early as 400 BC in Asia. Nang talung perfor-
mances, which begin late at night and last
several hours, are still an essential part of
village life in the Deep South. It is the
task of a single person, the nai nag
(puppet master), to create the
whole show. Sitting behind an
illuminated screen, he maneuvers
up to six puppets per scene. The A puppeteer, sitting behind a screen, using his
puppets, about 20 in (50 cm) high, skills to perform nang talung
are made from leather, or nang,
which is carved, colored,
and rendered movable by
joints. The changing tone of
Shadow puppet of a the puppeteer’s voice
Ramakien character differentiates between the
characters, while a band of
musicians adds tension to the plot. While the more
formal nang yai is based on the Ramakien (see pp44–5),
nang talung takes its inspiration from everyday life,
with themes such as family problems. Each story is
created by the nai nag and includes easily
recognizable characters, such as comic figures with
exaggerated features. Once a year the apprentices
commemorate the puppet master in a wai kru
(“paying respect to the teacher”) ceremony. The audience’s view of nang talung
390  SOUTHERN THAILAND

8 Songkhla village where colorful korlae Chinese painted enamelware


Songkhla province. * 86,000. ~
£ at Hat Yai, 22 miles (36 km) SW of
Songkhla. @ g n TAT, Hat Yai
(0-7424-3747). ( daily. _ Chinese
Lunar Festival (Sep/Oct).
Once known as Singora (“lion
city”), Songkhla grew
to prominence during
the Srivijaya period
(see pp350–51).
It once had a
reputation as a pirate
base but gradually
attracted Arab,
Indian, Khmer, and
Chinese traders.
The cuisine and Wat Chai Mongkhon,
language of
Songkhla reflect its
multicultural heritage, and a
subtle Portuguese influence is
evident in the architecture of
the houses along Nakhon Nok
and Nakhon Nai roads.
Today the city, built on
the headland between the
Gulf of Thailand and Thale
Sap – the country’s largest
lake – is a fishing port and
an administrative and
educational center.
Songkhla’s main beach, Hat
Samila, which is presided over
by the bronze Mermaid Statue, stone image of Ganesh, the ele-
is pleasant to walk along and
it has several good seafood
restaurants. Farther south, at
Khao Seng, is a Muslim fishing
fishing boats (see p394) can from the Qwing Ching dynasty,
be seen. A local myth says 15th-century U Thong wares,
that if you can move the Nai and 18th-century European
Bang’s Head boulder on the plates all indicate the
headland beside the village, importance of Songkhla’s
you will inherit the gold former maritime trade links.
buried underneath. The city’s other main temple,
The beautiful, evocative Wat Chai Mongkhon, has a
building housing the Songkhla Buddha relic from Sri Lanka
National Museum is buried beneath it.
an attraction in itself. Songkhla is an attractive city
It was built in 1878 in to walk around, taking in the
the Southern Thai- topiary garden at Khao Noi and
Chinese style as the view of Thale Sap from the
the residence of peak of Khao Tung Kuan.
deputy Songkhla Restaurants and live music
governor Phraya bars can be found around
Suntharanuraksa. Chaiya Road.
A hidden grass
courtyard flanks two E Songkhla National Museum
Songkhla spiraling staircases Wichianchom Rd. Tel 0-7431-1728.
leading to the Open Wed–Sun. Closed public
wooden paneled second story, hols. &
where most exhibits are kept.
Highlights include Bencharong
pottery, earthenware jars
recovered from the sea around
Songkhla, 7th- to 9th-century
Dvaravati plinths and Buddha
images, and Ban Chiang pottery
said to date from 3000 BC.
The Patrsee Museum in Wat
Matchimawat (sometimes
called Wat Klang), south of the
National Museum, is no less
important. Its 14-in (35-cm)
phant god, is thought to date
from the late 6th century,
making it the earliest such Elaborately decorated door at the Songkhla
image found in the peninsula. National Museum

Songkhla Town Center

0 meters 500
1 Mermaid Statue
0 yards 500
2 Khao Noi
3 Khao Tung Kuan KHAO SENG
4 Songkhla National Museum
Mermaid ALE LUANG
LEAP RIM TH
5 Wat Chai Mongkhon Statue
6 Patrsee Museum
ANG

7 Old Portuguese Houses

ila

R AT C H A
DAM NOEN
am

NAI

THALE LU
CHA I M ON -

Khao
G K HON
AO
t S

YA
AMNOEN

Noi
SAD
CHA
Ha

S U KH Wat Chai
UM Mongkhon
R AT C H A D
N
OE

Songkhla National Bus

AR

Museum Station KO YO
Khao RAMW
CH

Tung Kuan SAI

ITHI HAT YAI
ON

B UR I
Patrsee
CH

LEAM SAI
NA Museum
L A N G PHRARA M KH
ON
NAI Old Portuguese
NAKH
ON NO
Houses
Ferry pier Thale Sap K

For keys to symbols see back flap


E Patrsee Museum
Wat Matchimawat, Saiburi Rd.
Open Wed–Sun. Closed public
hols. &
Environs
The Prem Tinsulanonda bridge
connects Songkhla with the
narrow coastal strip to the
north. Once the longest bridge
in Thailand, it traverses Thale
Sap via the island of Ko Yo on
the western side of the lake.
The link has boosted the island’s
active cotton-weaving industry
and fish farms.
Ko Yo is home to the excellent
Folklore Museum, on a hilltop
overlooking the lake. The
museum, which aims to
preserve the rich folk traditions
of the South, houses displays on
history, ethnology, and religion.
Exhibits include fabrics, pottery,
and metalware, and traditional
arts from the South, such as
rattan and brassware from
Ranong, Muslim kris knives
from Pattani, krajude grass
mats from Chumphon, and
dove cages from Songkhla.
Wat Pha Kho, in Sathing
Phra district, to the north of
Songkhla, is believed to be
the oldest temple in Songkhla
province. Archaeological finds
around the wat suggest
Sathing Phra was once an
important port selling
ceramics, produced at nearby
Pa-o, to Khmer, Cham, and
Chinese traders.
E Folklore Museum
Institute of Southern Thai Studies,
Ko Yo, 8 miles (14 km) SW of Songkhla.
Open daily. &
Extensive fish farms beside Ko Yo on Thale Sap lake, near Songkhla
Three young devotees venerating a Buddhist shrine in Hat Yai
9 Hat Yai

Songkhla province. * 70,000.
~ 7 miles (12 km) W of Hat Yai. £
@ n TAT, 1/1 Soi 2, Niphat U-thit Rd,
Hat Yai (0-7424-3747). b next to TAT
(0-7424-6733). ( daily. _ Chinese
Lunar Festival (Sep/Oct).
The commercial and
transport capital of
Southern Thailand, Hat
Yai wins no prizes for
beauty. It has grown
affluent due to its
strategic railroad
junction, its cut-
price products, and a
constant flow of
Malaysian tourists Seller displaying produce at Hat every month at
who converge on
the city on
weekends to enjoy its dining,
shopping, and nightlife. Malay,
English, Yawi, Hokkien,
Mandarin, and the clipped
syllables of Southern Thai
dialect can be heard around the
cosmopolitan downtown area.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
DEEP SOUTH  391
Be aware that some parlors here
advertising “ancient massage”
will probably offer more than a
quick rubdown.
Hat Yai’s cultural attractions
are few, so most visitors spend
daylight hours shopping in
Thailand’s third-largest city.
Electrical goods at the Kim
Yong market, durians and
apples from street vendors,
and Bangkok-made leather
goods and fashions in
the department
stores are a
few of Hat Yai’s
popular buys.
Bullfighting takes
place in the city on
the first Saturday of
Yai market different locations.
Bulls are pitted
against each other, and the
winner is the animal that forces
its opponent to retreat. The
furious betting is often as much
of a spectacle as the fight itself.
Wat Hat Yai Nai, 1 mile (2 km)
west of the city center, has the
third-largest reclining Buddha
image in the world, measuring
115 ft (35 m) long and 49 ft
(15 m) high. You can walk inside
the image, entering via a small
shrine room. Herbal saunas and
massages are offered in the
temple grounds.
Environs
Ton Nga Chang (“elephant
tusk”) waterfall, 15 miles (24 km)
west of Hat Yai, takes its name
from the two streams of water
that tumble over the seven
tiers of falls. They are best seen
in the cool season, starting
in November.
392  SOUTHERN THAILAND
q Tarutao National
Marine Park

Taking the ferry from Pak Bara to Tarutao
National Marine Park
0 Thale Ban
National Park

Satun province. Off Hwy 4184, 23
miles (37 km) from Satun. n TAT,
Hat Yai (0-7423-1055); Forestry Dept
(0-2562- 0760)or ∑ dnp.go.th for
bungalow bookings. £ Satun,
then songthaew. &
Thale Ban is a lush expanse
of dense tropical rainforest
scattered with waterfalls that
extends over the Banthat
Mountains (see p385) close to
the Malaysian border. It covers
only 40 sq miles (102 sq km)
but contains a staggering
variety of wildlife including
sun bears, tigers, and rare birds
such as bat hawks. The park
has some marked trails, the
Yaroy waterfall, 3 miles (5 km)
north of the park headquarters,
and several swimming pools.
Satun is the nearest town
and gateway to the park. It is
within easy reach of Pak Bara,
from which ferries depart for
Tarutao, and the west coast.
Colorful corals, part of a reef in the Tarutao National Marine Park
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33
Satun province. 14 miles (22 km) from
Pak Bara. n TAT, Hat Yai (0-7423-1055)
or Park HQ (0-7478-3485). g from
Pak Bara; regular crossings mid-Nov to
mid-Apr only. &
The 51 islands of the Tarutao
National Marine Park are the
most southwesterly in Thailand,
located only 5 miles (8 km)
from the Malaysian island of
Langkawi. Tarutao is famous for
its superb diving sites, said to
be among the world’s best.
Offshore sightings of sperm
and minke whales, dugongs,
and dolphins are common.
There is also a rich concentration No crocodiles have been seen
of fish life with 92 species of
coral fish and around 25 percent
of all the world’s fish species in
the surrounding seas.
For centuries the
islands had a more
sinister reputation
as a lair for pirates. It
wasn’t until the 1960s
that the British Royal Navy
finally curtailed the pirate
raids. The archipelago,
extending over 580 sq Hawksbill turtle, a the mainland, rises to
miles (1,490 sq km), resident of Tarutao 2,300 ft (703 m). It is
became Thailand’s first
national marine park in 1974.
The park includes spectacular, such as the Rattana falls on the
unspoiled scenery, a wide
variety of wildlife, and good
coral. However, these
attractions are accessible
to visitors only from mid-
November to mid-May as
monsoon storms make the
ferry trip from Pak Bara too risky
at other times.
The largest island in the
group, 16-mile (26-km) long
Ko Tarutao, offers the greatest
scenic variety. Tropical
rainforest covers most of its
surface, which reaches a height
of 2,300 ft (708 m). Most
accommodations and the best
facilities for visitors are found
near the wonderful, pristine
beaches of the west coast.
Ferries from Pak Bara dock at
Ao Phante Malaka, which is
where the park headquarters,
bungalows, two restaurants,
and the island’s only store
are located. Worthwhile
excursions from here include
the half-hour climb to To-bo
cliff with its fine views,
particularly at sunset, and the
1-mile (2-km) boat trip to
stalagmite-filled Crocodile cave.
for many years, but the island
does support a wide variety of
fauna including deer, wild pigs,
macaques, otters, and soft-
shelled turtles. Ko Adang and
Ko Lipey are the only other
islands in the park to
offer (rudimentary)
accommodations
and food for visitors.
Rugged Ko Adang,
39 miles (62 km) west of
thickly forested and has
many year-round waterfalls,
southwest coast. Here, you can
take a freshwater rock pool
swim while overlooking the sea.
The smaller island of Ko Lipey,
1 mile (2 km) south of Ko
Adang, has pleasant footpaths
through coconut plantations
and the immaculate sands of
Pattaya beach. It is also home
to a community of sea gypsies,
displaced from Ko Rawi and
Ko Adang when the park was
created. Relations between the
gypsies and the park authorities
are strained.
Ko Kra, off Lipey’s east coast,
has excellent corals, as does Ko
Yang, midway between Rawi
and Adang islands.
Tiny Ko Khai (“egg island”),
west of Tarutao, has a dramatic
rock arch and is surrounded by
fine sands. These are a major
breeding ground for sea turtles,
hence the island’s name.
 DEEP SOUTH  393

Seafood of the South

One of the greatest culinary treats Thailand provides is the abundant fresh seafood
of the South. Throughout the year, a wide range of fish, crabs, lobsters, mussels, shrimp,
mollusks, and squid are available along both the Gulf of Thailand and Andaman Sea
coasts. Although flash-frozen and container-freighted seafood is available all over the
country today, it is hard to beat the flavor of a freshly caught fish, simply cooked and
served up whole on a plate by the shore. Nor does it have to be expensive: for every
five-star restaurant offering lobster bisque there are half a dozen street cafés serving
an enormous range of seafood cooked in an amazing variety of styles.

Green mussels from the Whelks from the

Hoi nang rom sot, Gulf of Thailand Andaman Sea
a simple Thai hors
d’oeuvre of fresh
oysters, is served
out of the shell
with slices of
zesty lime.

Andaman Sea
cockles

Fresh crab from Phuket Saltwater tiger shrimp

Charamet fish, prized for its succulent, soft
flesh, is cooked here in sweet plum sauce
(neung buay), accompanied by ginger,
lemon grass, and chili peppers.
Barbecued Seafood
Barbecued seafood, known as thale phao, is
popular with both Thais and foreign visitors.
Diners make their selection of freshly caught
fish and shellfish displayed on banks of
crushed ice. Pricing is usually by weight.

Thot man kung (deep

fried shrimp cakes) are
served with a sweet
sauce dip. This is a
favorite dish with
those who don’t like
very spicy food.
Meuk op sos noei (squid baked in butter
sauce) is decorated with exquisitely carved
vegetable “flowers” and “leaves.” Garnishes of
this type accompany many Thai dishes and
are generally not eaten.

Phanaeng kung
makheuathet is a
creamy, fragrant
dish of tomatoes
stuffed with a
shrimp and
Kung mangkon phat phrik phao (barbecued coconut milk curry.
lobster with chili sauce) is particularly popular It is a specialty of
around Phuket, where lobsters abound. Hat Yai and Phuket.
394  southern thailand

w Pattani

Pattani province. * 74,000. @ @
n TAT, Narathiwat (0-7352-2411). (
daily. _ Lim Ko Niaw Festival (Mar).

Founded in the early 1400s,

Pattani was once a semiauto-
nomous Malay-speaking
sultanate. Today, it is the heart
of Muslim South Thailand
(75 percent of the province’s
population are followers of Wat Khuha Phimuk, with its adjacent cave containing a reclining Buddha
Islam). Pattani is one of four
southern provinces that have local woman and converted to e Yala
seen rising violence by Islamic Islam. To show his devotion to
extremists against the minority his new faith he started

Buddhist population. building a mosque. His sister, Yala province. * 93,000. £ @
Apart from the Matsayit Lim Ko Niaw, sailed from n TAT, Narathiwat (0-7352-2411).
Klang mosque, there are China to protest about his _ ASEAN Barred Ground Dove
few notable sights, but conversion, and he swore Festival (1st weekend Mar); Yala City
the town is lively, he would return to Pillar Celebrations (end of May).
particularly around the China as soon as the
harbor with its brightly mosque was finished. Yala, often heralded as the
colored boats. However, he made cleanest town in Thailand, is laid
sure that it never was, out in an orderly fashion with a
Environs and his sister, on her grid pattern of streets and tree-
The mosque of Kru Se, deathbed, cursed the lined boulevards. It’s a prosperous
4 miles (7 km) east of building and and rather staid place, at its most
town, is unremarkable in Muslim women in anyone who attempted lively during the annual cooing
design but has an Pattani to complete it. Her competition of the ASEAN
interesting story behind shrine and the still Barred Ground Dove Festival,
it. In the 1570s, Lim To Khieng, unfinished mosque attract huge which attracts entrants from all
a Chinese merchant, married a numbers of devotees. over Southeast Asia. Yala’s
mosque is the largest in Thailand.
Korlae Fishing Boats Environs
Along mainly the east coast of the peninsula, from Ko Samui For many people, the main
southward, colorful, painted fishing boats called korlae have been reason to visit Yala is Wat Khuha
built and decorated by Muslim fishermen for hundreds of years. Phimuk, called Wat Na Tham
The finest examples of this now declining industry originate in the locally, located 5 miles (8 km)
boatyards of Saiburi district, Pattani. Originally sailboats, they are now outside the town. It is one of the
run with engines by fishermen. Among the characters commonly most sacred and important
depicted on the superbly detailed hull designs are the singha lion, archaeological sites in South
the gagasura horned bird, payanak sea serpent, and the garuda bird Thailand. A cave next to the
from Asian mythologies. Artists, however, don’t feel anything is amiss
temple contains an 82-ft-long
if they add a Swiss Alpine background.
(25-m) reclining Buddha. The
statue, which allegedly once
had the head of the Hindu god
Vishnu, dates from the 8th
century, the beginning of the
Srivijaya period.
Among the priceless icons
from that era found here are
votive stupas from Northeast
India and 9th-century bronze
standing Buddha images in the
style of South India.
The small museum hall, at the
foot of the naga staircase
leading up to the temple cave,
Battling mythical beasts, intricately painted on a korlae boat displays a range of Srivijayan
artifacts found in the area.
For hotels and restaurants see pp402–11 and pp418–33

r Betong

Yala province. * 29,000. @ n TAT,
Narathiwat (0-7352-2411). ( daily.
Betong is the southernmost
town in Thailand. It sits high in
the hills, 3 miles (5 km) from the
Malaysian border and 87 miles
(140 km) from Yala.
The surrounding countryside
is of more interest than the
town itself, which has few sights
other than the 130-ft-high (40-m)
stupa in Wat Phuttha Tiwat.
This was built in the late 1980s
in a modified Srivijayan style.
Environs
The winding road from Yala to
Betong climbs through remote
mountain forests where bands
of the Sakai tribe still hunt.
From the 1940s until the
1980s this dense forest was
home to an active unit of the
Communist Party of Malaya,
taking refuge in Thailand.
A paved road leads to their
former underground guerrilla
camp, Piya Mit, which has now
been converted into a museum.
Around 180 Communists lived
here undetected in 1,100 yds
(1 km) of tunnels, 33 ft (10 m)
below the surface.
The end came peacefully in
1989 when “an honorable
settlement” was reached with
the Malaysian and Thai
governments. Most of the
former revolutionaries settled in
the area, and some now guide
visitors through the network of
dank tunnels and explain the
camp’s facilities. The cleverly
A lively scene of daily life from a mural at Wat Chonthara Sing He
constructed kitchen area has a
flue that would disperse smoke
on the other side of the hill,
thus concealing the camp’s
location. It was so successful
that the stronghold remained
undetected until the end. Other
items on display include old
shoes, uniforms, knives, and
torches used by the fugitive
comrades. Simple modern
bungalows are available.
E Piya Mit
Betong province. Off Hwy 410, 12 miles
(19 km) N of Betong. Open daily.
t Narathiwat

Narathiwat province. * 68,000.
~ £ @ n TAT, Narathiwat
(0-7352-2411). _ Chao Mae Toe
Moe Festival (late Apr or early May),
Narathiwat Fair (3rd week Sep).
The town of Narathiwat is
visited by few tourists, but it
makes a useful base for
exploring the surrounding
region. However, caution is
advised as the province
experiences frequent acts of
violence carried out by Islamic
extremists. The Muslim fishing
village is a good place to see
the traditional painted korlae
boats. There are a number of
good beaches near the town –
the best is Ao Manao, 4 miles
(6 km) to the south.
Environs
Taksin Palace, south of town, is
the summer residence of the
King and Queen. It is open to
deep south  395
Immense golden-tiled Buddha on Khao
Kong, Narathiwat
the public when the royal
family is not in residence.
The gardens have views of the
adjacent beach and an aviary
with peacocks and cockatoos.
On the road to Rangae is
the hill Khao Kong, perched
upon which is the tallest seated
Buddha image in Thailand.
The 79-ft (24-m) statue is
covered in golden tiles.
Close to the Malaysian border,
21 miles (34 km) south of
Narathiwat, is the lovely village
of Tak Bai. Its main attraction is
Wat Chonthara Sing He: an
outpost of Thai Buddhism in an
almost exclusively Malay-
speaking, Muslim area. The wat
was erected in 1873 by King
Chulalongkorn to stake his
claim to a region that the British
wanted to incorporate into
Malaya (Malaysia).
The architecture of the
temple mixes Southern Thai
with Chinese influences, the
latter being particularly evident
in the tiered roof. One of the
buildings in the large grounds
contains a reclining Buddha
decorated with Chinese
ceramics from the Song
dynasty. Another temple
building is adorned with a
number of fine murals
depicting many aspects of
local life painted during the
reign of King Mongkut.
E Taksin Palace
Off Hwy 4084, 5 miles (8 km)
S of Narathiwat. Open daily.
Closed usually Aug & Sep. &
 Travelers’
needs

Where to Stay 398–411

Where to Eat and Drink 412–433
Shopping in Thailand 434–441
Entertainment in Thailand 442–445
Outdoor Activities &
Special Interests 446–455
398  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY
Places to stay in Thailand come in all price
ranges, and the distribution of hotels is
surprisingly good in all but the remotest
parts of the country. All major cities have
several international-class hotels, while
Bangkok boasts of some of the best hotels
in the world. These are equipped with spas,
swimming pools, fitness clubs, restaurants,
business services, and other luxury facilities.
Mid-range accommodation is available
in most towns and, although it may be
lacking in character, it is uniformly clean,
efficient, and friendly. The current trend
in Thailand is for luxurious spas, resorts,
and pool villas featuring contemporary
Thai design and decor. These fabulously
chic properties can now be found across
the country. Guesthouses provide
remarkably cheap accommodations
for budget travelers. Other alternatives
include camping or staying in bungalows
in the national parks.

visiting dignitary in the as the Four Seasons in Chiang

Shangri-La’s sumptuous lounge (see p403)
Hotel Grading and
Facilities
Hotels are not officially graded,
although some are registered
with the Thai Hotels Association.
Price is therefore the only
indication of what to expect
(see p400). Accommodations
range from basic to luxury.
Even at the low end of the
market rooms are usually
spotlessly clean.
Often the best value is to
be found in the once-luxury
establishments that have been
downgraded since the arrival
of international luxury chains.
These hotels offer the facilities
available in first-class hotels at
a fraction of the cost.
air-conditioned retreats of
Bangkok and the other major
cities. Rooms are sure to have
every conceivable luxury, from
a king-size bed and massive
television to a well-stocked
minibar and perhaps even a
marble Jacuzzi or private pool.
In such world-famous hotels as
the Mandarin Oriental and the
Shangri-La Bangkok, the magni-
ficent views of the Chao Phraya
River are an added privilege.
These first-class hotels offer
their guests a huge range of
facilities, including spas,
business centers, conference
rooms, designer-brand shops,
coffee shops, fitness centers,
and swimming pools, as well
as numerous food outlets.
Resort Hotels
Like the urban luxury hotels,
the resort hotels of Thailand are
unsurpassed in style, comfort,
and elegance. They also usually
offer stunning views. Such resorts
Mai, Honeymoon Private
Island Resort in Phuket, and
the Chiva Som Resort in Cha-am
are luxury designer-built oases
of tranquility and opulence.
Expect the best of everything,
with charming service
provided by traditionally
dressed waiting staff. The
cuisine served is varied and
of excellent standards.
Modern Hotels
A modern, mid-range hotel
in Thailand might be anything
between a former top-line
hotel that has been
downgraded as newer places
open with better facilities,
and a new boutique hotel
that offers personalized service
at competitive prices. Mid-
range accommodation can
be found in just about every
town in Thailand, and in remote
areas, they might sometimes
be the only available options.
Some of these places offer all

Luxury Hotels
Thailand’s luxury hotels are
probably the equal of any in the
world – and their number and
standards are rising year after
year. Expect to be treated like a The luxurious Conrad Room at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Bangkok (see p403)
Painted parasols on display in Bo Sang, Chiang Mai

The beautiful swimming pool at Kanchanaburi’s Felix River Kwai Resort (see p404)
the same in-room facilities as
a top-end hotel, such as air-
conditioning, satellite TV, and
even little extras like hair dryer
or tea- and coffee-making
facilities. For visitors who do
not need extravagant amenities
such as a private plunge pool
or in-room spa facilities, these
modern hotels provide the
best-value accommodation.
Guesthouses
Guesthouses in Thailand date
from the backpacker explosion
of the 1970s. Still frequented
primarily by Western travelers,
they offer a superb value
for money and often a lot
of charm.
In Bangkok, Khao San Road
is the primary haunt of budget
travelers. Offering low-cost
accommodation in an otherwise
expensive capital city seems to
have taken priority over comfort,
and, with a few exceptions,
Bangkok guesthouses are, at
best, unremarkable.
Outside the capital, however,
and especially in Chiang Mai,
guesthouses are usually clean,
friendly, and astoundingly
cheap. Most have rooms with
air-conditioning or fans, as well
as en-suite bathrooms. Some
establishments offer swimming
pools, restaurants, and good
service for around 500 baht a
night, just a fraction of the cost
of a top resort hotel. Cheap
guesthouses may cost as little
as 150 baht, but for this expect
basic facilities, with communal
Asian toilets and showers,
although the quality of service
should still be good.
W H E R E TO S TAY
Budget Hotels and
Backpacker Hostels
Budget hotels can be found
just about everywhere in
Thailand. They generally offer
basic facilities, often without
Western-style toilets (these
are clean, but require
squatting rather than sitting),
and are cheap and functional,
but unexceptional.
Budget hotels are
architecturally unexciting,
generally being multi-story
concrete blocks containing
numerous identical rooms.
As ever in Thailand, however,
they are usually clean and the
service is friendly. Most will
offer guests a choice between
air-conditioned rooms (hong
air) and fan-cooled rooms
(hong patlom).
Only a few budget hotels
are equipped with restaurants.
However, in some remote
areas, particularly little-
visited areas of the Central
Plains and Northeast Thailand,
A charming guesthouse in rural surroundings, in the north of the country
 399
these hotels may well
provide the only option
for travelers.
Backpacker hostels are a
more recent trend in Thai
accommodation and as yet
are only available in Bangkok
and the bigger cities. These
comprise segregated dorms,
shared bathrooms, and
communal facilities such as
a café and movie room. They
offer less personal service than
guesthouses but are very
convenient for large groups
traveling together.
Serviced Apartments
Serviced apartments are an
increasingly popular choice for
visitors intending to stay in
Thailand for a month or longer.
Properties usually occupy prime
locations and offer guests the
service and convenience of a five-
star hotel at significantly lower
prices. For more information,
visit www.sabaai.com.
400  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Staying in National Parks
The majority of national parks
allow camping for a minimal
fee, although the facilities
provided are extremely basic
when compared to those
available in Europe and North
America. Camping has limited
appeal in Thailand, as most
Thais prefer to sleep in a hotel
if one is available. Campers will
have to face the perils of the
outdoors; mosquito nets and
copious amounts of insect
repellent are essential.
In many national parks
visitors can also stay in log-
cabin-style bungalows; these
have few facilities. Advance
booking is necessary, either
through the Department of
National Parks website or
by phoning the Forestry
Department in Bangkok.
Prices
Thailand’s extraordinary range
of accommodations includes
something to suit every visitor’s
budget. At the top end of the
market, which includes such
hotels as Bangkok’s Mandarin
Oriental (see p403) and Chiang
An idyllic setting: tent and bungalows at Ao Phrao on Ko Samet
A traditional-style bedroom with mattresses on the floor
Mai’s Four Seasons (see p405),
the sky is the limit. Celebrities
and heads of state may take
suites at 40,000 baht a night,
although for more everyday
luxury expect to pay between
5,000 and 15,000 baht a night.
Mid-range accommodations
cost from 1,000 to 5,000 baht
a night in Bangkok, Chiang Mai,
Pattaya, Phuket, or Ko Samui.
A comfortable air-conditioned
room in a standard provincial
hotel goes for between 700
and 2,000 baht, depending on
the season. Prices everywhere
are at their highest in the cool
season (November to February).
In the hot season (March to
May) and the rainy season
(May to October), rates often
fall, except in the capital, which
remains busy all year round.
A clean but spartan room in
a budget hotel in Bangkok
will cost around 500 baht,
falling to 200 to 400
baht in the provinces.
Local factors should also
be taken into consideration.
For example, in Surin hotel
prices soar during the Elephant
Roundup in November,
when rooms in this otherwise
moderately priced city are
booked up months in advance.
The best deals available are
probably the guesthouses of
Chiang Mai and other tourism-
oriented towns. It is possible to
stay in traditional Thai houses,
with teak walls and stilts, for
between 200 and 500 baht a
night. This is difficult to beat,
and visitors often stay for weeks
longer than planned. Beach
bungalows are similarly priced,
but less comfortable, and more
prone to invasion by insects.
Booking
Advance booking is advisable
for luxury hotels and mid-range
establishments, especially during
national and local festivals.
Budget hotels and guesthouses
are unlikely to take bookings.
In popular tourist areas, and at
luxury hotels, staff speak English.
Elsewhere, making a booking
may be difficult unless you speak
some Thai. However, Tourism
Authority of Thailand offices
are able to make bookings
on behalf of tourists.

Taxes
The tax situation in Thailand is
rather confusing and apparently
irregular. All hotels should
charge seven percent VAT
(value added tax), and some
luxury hotels will also add a 10
percent service charge on top
of their basic rates. Most cheap
hotels include this tax in their
rates, but many of the more
expensive places do not. Thus, it
is important to ask whether this
is included in the price when
booking or before checking in.
At small hotels outside the
main resorts, tax is rarely (if
ever) charged, and service is
paid for (if at all) by tipping.
Bargaining
It is always a good idea to
ask about the possibility of a
reduction in price. The worst
that can happen is a polite
refusal, and very often,
especially outside Bangkok
and out of season, such an
inquiry can lead to substantial
savings, particularly if booking
for several nights. It is not
considered impolite to ask,
but it is bad manners to press
the point. Many hotels give
discounts if bookings are low,
and if special rates are available,
most Thai proprietors will
certainly let you know.
Tipping
Outside the capital and the
major destinations of Ko
Samui, Phuket, Pattaya, and
Chiang Mai, tipping is unusual.
Porters will expect a tip, and
staff are rewarded for good
service. Use your discretion:
if you have received particularly
good service, then leave a tip if
you wish. Thanks, and a smile,
are also much appreciated.
Khon Kaen Hotel, Khorat Plateau
(see p407)
W H E R E TO S TAY  401
There are no hard and fast all price levels and types,
rules, and the standard British from rustic, family-owned
10 percent – let alone the inns and simple budget hotels
American 15 percent – would to deluxe beachfront resorts
be far too much on a large bill. and chic contemporary
Between 10 and 50 baht is boutique hotels. Hotels are
adequate in almost every listed by area, and within these
circumstance. Expensive hotels areas by price. Map references
will automatically include a for hotels in Bangkok refer to
service charge on the bill. pp152–9.
For the best of the best,
look out for hotels featuring
Facilities for Children the DK Choice symbol. These
Thais love children and are establishments have been
incredibly tolerant of them, highlighted in recognition
especially if they are blond- of an exceptional feature –
haired and blue-eyed. Such a stunning location, notable
kids seem as exotic and doll-like architecture, ambience, or
to Thais as their own offspring outstanding facilities, etc. The
do to the average Westerner. majority of these are extremely
However, very few mid-range popular among local residents
hotels have facilities for children and visitors, so be sure to
or nursing mothers, and reserve well ahead of time.
supervised play areas are rare.
By contrast, the majority of DIRECTORY
seaside resorts and luxury hotels
offer some kind of babysitting Thai Hotels
services, and children can often Association
stay in their parents’ room for
294/1 Asia Building Floor 2,
free. Wading pools may be
Phayathai Rd, Rajthevee,
provided, but guests must
Bangkok, 10400
supervise their own children. Tel 0-2281-3902.
∑ thaihotels.org
Disabled Travelers
National Parks
Even luxury hotels in Thailand
have only a few facilities for Department of
disabled visitors. Wheelchair National Parks
∑ tat.or.th
ramps are beginning to make
an appearance in newly Forestry Department
commissioned luxury hotels, Phahon Yothin Rd,
and nearly every luxury or Bangkok.
tourist-class establishment has Tel 0-2562-0760.
an elevator. However, that is the
limit of facilities in most hotels. Main TAT Offices
Thailand has a fast-developing Bangkok
economy and a booming Tel 0-2250-5500/1672.
tourist trade, but it is likely to ∑ tat.or.th
be many years before a serious
Chiang Mai
awareness of the needs of the
Tel 0-5324-8604/07.
disabled develops. Hotels
should be carefully chosen, Ko Samui
with the help of the Thai Hotels Tel 0-7728-8818,
Association, and bookings 0-7742-0504.
made well in advance. Pattaya
Tel 0-3842-8750.
Recommended Hotels Phuket
Tel 0-7621-1036.
The lodging recommendations
in the pages that follow
have been selected for their
ambience, room and food
quality, and/or good value.
They span the spectrum across
402  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Where to Stay
Riverview Guesthouse  Price Guide
Bangkok Guesthouse Map 6 F3 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
768 Soi Panurangsi, Songwat Rd, high season for a standard double room,
Old City San Jao Tosuekong, 10100 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Lamphu Tree House  Tel 0-2234-5429  up to 1,500 baht
 1,500 to 4,000 baht
Boutique Map 2 E4 ∑ riverviewbkk.com
 over 4,000 baht
Soi Baan Pan Thom, 155 Wanchat Basic rooms in a hard-to-find
Bridge, Prachatipatai Rd, Phra location, but with superb views
Nakorn, 10200 of Chinatown and the river. City Lodge 

Tel 0-2282-0991-2 Dorms available, too. Budget

∑ lamphutreehotel.com
Tranquil spot in a residential area
close to the Grand Palace. Classic
decor with teakwood furniture.
Arun Residence 
Boutique Map 5 C1
36–38 Soi Pratu Nok Yung, Tha
137/1–3 Sukumvit Soi 9, 10110
Grand China Princess Hotel  Tel 0-2253-7705
Modern Map 6 E1 ∑ mosaic-collection.com
215 Yaowarat Rd, Samphantawong, Good value choice in a part
10100 of town known for its nightlife.
Tel 0-2224-9977 Opt for a quiet room at the back.
∑ grandchina.com
A 21-story hotel with a rotating Lub-d Silom 

Maharat, Maharat Rd, Ratanakosin restaurant. Some rooms are a bit Hostel Map 7 B4
Island, 10200 dated, but the views are superb. 4 Decho Rd, Bangrak, 10500
Tel 0-2221-9158 Tel 0-2634-7999.
∑ arunresidence.com Shanghai Mansion  ∑ lubd.com
Sino-Portuguese mansion on Boutique Map 6 F2 Slick and trendy backpackers’ place.
the river, in the heart of historic 479–481 Yaowarat Rd, Private ensuite rooms plus dorms.
Bangkok. Good split-level rooms Samphantawong, 10100 Free Wi-Fi and a friendly bar.
with balconies. Tel 0-2221-2121
∑ shanghaimansion.com Red Planet Asoke 

Navalai River Resort  Lavish rooms with traditional Modern

Modern Map 2 D3 Chinese decor. Exceptional 7 Sukhumvit Soi 14, 10110
45 Phra Athit Rd, Banglampoo, 10200 service and delicious breakfasts. Tel 0-2613-5888
Tel 0-2280-9955 ∑ redplanethotels.com
∑ navalai.com In a prime location, this quiet
Pleasant hotel on the riverside Dusit hotel is great value for money.
with Colonial- and Thai-themed Hotel de Moc 

rooms. Close to Khao San Road. Boutique Map 2 E3 Baan K Residence 

78 Prajatipatai Rd, Phra Nakorn, 10200 Modern Map 8 D4

Tel 0-2629-2100–4 12/1 Sathorn Soi 2 Sathorn Rd, 10120
DK Choice ∑ hoteldemoc.com Tel 0-2633-9911
Chakrabongse Villas  Large rooms with retro 1960s ∑ baankresidence.com
Boutique Map 5 B1 decor. Pool and spa facilities. These large suites and studio
396 Maharat Rd, Phra Nakorn, apartments are ideal for families.
Tha Tien, 10200
Tel 0-2222-1290 DK Choice Silom Convent Garden 

∑ thaivillas.com The Siam  Apartments Map 7 C4

Located on the banks of the
Chao Praya River, within walking
distance of the Grand Palace,
this unique boutique hotel was
once the residence of a Thai
prince. It is surrounded by lush
gardens with fantastic views
of the temples. The four free-
standing suites and three
rooms are furnished in Thai,
Chinese, and Moroccan motifs.
The service is first-rate.
Boutique Map 2 E1 35/1 Sio Phiphat 2, Soi Convent Rd, 10500
3/2 Thanon Khao, Vacirapayabal, Tel 0-2667-0130
10300 ∑ silomconventgarden.com
Tel 0-2206-6999 These serviced apartments,
∑ thesiamhotel.com near Silom Road, have cooking
Located upstream from the facilities. Great for longer stays.
Grand Palace/Khao San Road
area on the Chao Phraya River,
this hotel provides a tranquility
unlike anywhere else in Bangkok.
Sumptuously decorated suites
have antique furniture and river
views. Fantastic service.

Chinatown
Chinatown Hotel  Downtown
Modern Map 6 E2 A One Inn 

526 Yaowarat Rd, Guesthouse Map 8 E1

Sampphantawong, 10100
Tel 0-2225-0204
∑ chinatownhotel.co.th
Clean hotel with modern, if
somewhat spartan, decor.
Great location in the middle
of Chinatown.
25/13–15 Soi Kasamsunt 1, Rama I Rd,
10330
Tel 0-2215-3029
∑ aoneinn.com
Basic rooms, but in a great location
close to the best shopping areas
and the Skytrain. River views from the Chakrabongse Villas
 W H E R E TO S TAY  403

Triple Two Silom 

Boutique
222 Silom Rd, 10500
Tel 0-2627-2222
∑ tripletwosilom.com
This stylish low-rise is popular
with business travelers.

Anantara Baan Rajprasong

Suites 

Luxury Map 8 D2
3 Soi Mahardlekluang 3,
Ratchadamri Rd, 10330
Tel 0-2264-6464
∑ rajprasong-bangkok.
anantara.com Elegant decor and great views at Shangri-La
Luxurious one-bedroom suites.
Fantastic fitness center and sauna. The St. Regis  Farther Afield
Luxury Map 8 D2 Amari Don Muang Hotel 

AriyasomVilla 159 Ratchadamri Rd, 10330 Modern

Boutique Hotel  Tel 0-2207-7777 333 Chertwudthakas Rd, 10210
Boutique Map 8 F1 ∑ stregisbangkok.com Tel 0-2566-1020
65 Soi 1 Sukhumviti Rd, 10110 Contemporary high-rise hotel ∑ amari.com
Tel 0-2254-8880 with elegant decor. Friendly staff. Good location close to Don
∑ ariyasom.com Muang airport. Clean, affordable,
This 1940s mansion is a serene The Sukhothai  and well-thought-out rooms.
urban oasis. Lovely garden and Luxury Map 8 D4
pool, and great vegetarian food. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 10120 Bangkok Tree House 

Tel 0-2344-8888 Luxury

The Banyan Tree  ∑ sukhothai.com 60 Moo 1, Petch Cha Heung Rd, Bang
Luxury Map 8 D4 Sumptuous rooms with a Namphueng, Phra Padaeng, 10130
5 South Sathorn Tai, Sathorn, modern take on traditional Tel 08-2995-1150
Pathumwan, 10120 Thai furnishings. Magnificent ∑ bangkoktreehouse.com
Tel 0-2679-1200 pool and gardens. Popular eco-resort accessible
∑ banyantree.com only by boat or on foot. Delicious
Sleek modern decor. Great spa Swisshôtel Nai Lert Park  organic food on offer.
and outdoor rooftop restaurant. Luxury Map 8 E1
2 Wireless Rd, Pathumwan, 10330 Novotel Suvarnabhumi
The Mandarin Oriental  Tel 0-2253-0123 Airport Hotel 

Luxury Map 6 F4 ∑ swissotel.com Luxury

Charoen Krung Soi 41, 48 Oriental Central, plush low-rise resort set Moo 1, Nongprue, Bang Phli, Samut
Ave, 10500 in expansive tropical gardens. Prakarn, 10540
Tel 0-2659-9000 Tel 0-2131-1111
∑ mandarinoriental.com ∑ novotel.com
Established in the 19th century, Thon Buri Very high standards for an airport
this hotel offers a great riverside Ibrik Resort on the River  hotel. Elegant rooms, excellent
location and impeccable service. Boutique Map 1 B5 spa, and good food.
256 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin
Plaza Athenee  Rd, 10700
Luxury Map 8 E2 Tel 0-2848-9220
61Wireless Rd, 10330 ∑ ibrikresort.com South Central Plains
Tel 0-2650-8800 Comfortable rooms in a quiet
∑ plazaatheneebangkok.com but convenient location by AYUTTHAYA: Bann Kun Pra 

Ultra-modern hotel with superb the river. Hostel

rooms and decadent dining. 48 U Thong Rd, 13000
Anantara Bangkok Riverside Tel 0-3524-1978
Shangri-La Hotel  Resort & Spa  ∑ bannkunpra.com
Luxury Map 6 F5 Luxury Double and dorm rooms with
89 Soi Watr Suan Plu, Charoen Krung 257/1–3 Charoennakorn Rd, 10600 delightfully quirky decor.
Rd, 10500 Tel 0-2476-0022 Romantic restaurant serving
Tel 0-2236-7777 ∑ bangkok-riverside.anantara.com fusion cuisine.
∑ shangri-la.com Expansive riverside gardens, a
Located close to the river boats lovely spa, and several restaurants. AYUTTHAYA: Prom Tong
and Skytrain. With a famous spa, Great for families. Mansion 

private butlers, and great views. Budget

The Peninsula  23 Pathon Soi 19, Pathon Rd,
Siam Kempinski  Luxury Map 6 E5 T Pratuchai, 13000
Luxury Map 4 D5 333 Charoen Nakorn Rd, Klong San, Tel 08-9165-6297
991/9 Rama 1 Rd, 10330 10600 ∑ promtong.com
Tel 0-2162-9000 Tel 0-2861-2888 Centrally located hotel with
∑ kempinski.com ∑ peninsula.com simply furnished family rooms.
Stylish hotel close to the best shop- Rooms on the waterfront with Free Wi-Fi and use of nearby
ping areas. Several dining choices. excellent views and elegant decor. swimming pool.
For more information on types of hotels see pp398–401
404  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
One of many dining options at Krungsri River Hotel
DK Choice
AYUTTHAYA:
Kantary Hotel 
Modern
168 Moo 1, Rojana Rd, 13000
Tel 0-3533-7177
∑ kantarycollection.com
One of the most stylish hotels
in Ayutthaya. Expect excellent
comfort, impeccable service, and
great value for money. Choose
between studios with separate
living areas, and one- or two-
room apartments with kitchens
and washing machines.
AYUTTHAYA:
Krungsri River
Modern
27/2 Moo, 11 Rojana Rd, 13000
Tel 0-3524-4333
∑ krungsririver.com
Lacking in character, but in a great
location just across the river from
many of the sights. A lovely pool.
KANCHANABURI: Apple’s
Retreat
Guesthouse
153/4 Moo 4, Thamakham, 71000
Tel 0-3451-2017
∑ applesguesthouse.com
Located across the river from town.
Restful place with clean, simple
rooms. Offers cookery classes.
KANCHANABURI:
Ploy Guest House
Guesthouse
79/2 Mae Nam Kwae Rd, 71000
Tel 0-3451-4437
∑ ploygh.com
Stylish riverside place with a
small pool, terrace dining, and
kitchen facilities.
KANCHANABURI: Felix River
Kwai Resort 
Modern
9/1 Moo 3, Thamakham, 71000
Tel 0-3455-1000-23
∑ felixriverkwai.co.th
Large, centrally located resort with
lush grounds, extensive facilities,
and a business center.
Key to Price Guide see page 402
KANCHANABURI: Royal River
Kwai Resort 
Boutique
88 Kanchanaburi–Saiyok Rd, 71000
Tel 0-3467-0621
∑ royalriverkwairesort.com
Beautifully designed resort with a
spa, a pool, and riverside restaurant.
KANCHANABURI:
U Inchantree 
Boutique
443 Mae Nam Kwae Rd, 71000
Tel 0-3452-1584
∑ uhotelsresorts.com
Close to the famous bridge on the
Khwae Yai River, with delightful
gardens. Part of a hotel chain.
 LOP BURI: Lopburi Inn  PHITSANULOK:
Budget
28/9 Narai Maharat Rd, 15000
Tel 0-3641-2609
Spacious rooms in a very central
location. Dated decor.
LOP BURI: Nett Hotel  hotel with stylish decor and top-
Budget
17/1–2 Soi 2, Ratchadamnoen Rd,
 15000
Tel 0-3641-1738
Basic rooms at rock-bottom rates.
Convenient for the ruins.
SANGKHLA BURI:
Samprasob Resort 
Modern
122 Moo 3, Nonglu, 71240
Tel 0-3459-5050
 ∑ samprasob.com
On a hill overlooking the river and
the Mon bridge, the Samprasob
offers a range of rooms, including
free-standing cabins.
North Central Plains
KAMPHAENG PHET:
Phet Hotel B
Modern
189 Bumrungrat Rd, 62000
Tel 0-5571-2810
∑ phethotel.com
Large, clean rooms with private
bathrooms. Friendly staff.
KAMPHAENG PHET: Three J 
Guesthouse
79 Rajwithee Rd, 62000
Tel 0-5572-0384, 0-8188-7419
∑ threejguesthouse.com
Welcoming place with creative
decor and great communal areas.
A relaxed backpacker haven.
MAE SOT: Ban Thai 
Guesthouse
740/1 Inthakhiri Rd, 63110
Tel 0-5553-1590
Good range of rooms, from small
basic rooms with fans to big, air-
conditioned bungalows.
MAE SOT: Centara Mae
Sot Hill Resort 
Modern
100 Asia Highway, 63110
Tel 0-5553-2601-8
∑ centarahotelsresorts.com
Located 2km outside the center,
this is one of Mae Sot’s top hotels.
Spacious rooms and a huge pool.
PHITSANULOK: Pailyn Hotel 
Budget
38 Baroma Trailokanart Rd, 65000
Tel 0-5525-2411
Busy high-rise hotel in a central
location. Good views from the
top floors.
Yodia Heritage 
Boutique
89/1 Puttabucha Rd, 65000
Tel 0-5521-4677
∑ yodiaheritage.com
Gorgeous, riverside boutique
notch service.
SUKHOTHAI:
At Home Sukhothai 
Guesthouse
184 Wichienchamnong Rd, 64000
Tel 0-5561-0172
∑ athomesukhothai.com
Cozy rooms in a beautifully
restored traditional teak house.
Free bicycle use.
SUKHOTHAI: Lotus Village 
Budget
170 Ratchathani Rd, 65000
Tel 0-5562-1484
∑ lotus-village.com
Teak rooms on stilts set in a lush,
tropical garden. Run by a friendly
Thai/French couple.
SUKHOTHAI: Ruean Thai 
Modern
 181/20 Soi Pracharuammit, Jarod
Withithong Rd, 65000
Tel 0-5561-2444
∑ rueanthaihotel.com
A beautifully decorated traditional
teak house with lovely rooms set
around a pool. Wi-Fi available.

DK Choice
SUKHOTHAI:
Tharaburi Resort
Luxury
113 Srisomboon Rd, 65000
Tel 0-5569-7132
∑ tharaburiresort.com
Located right beside the
historical park, this resort
oozes style with canopied
beds, private balconies, and
tasteful artwork on the walls.
The lavish suites make guests
feel like Siamese royalty.
Offers cookery classes for
guests. Bicycles are also
available for hire.
TAK: Viang Tak Riverside
Budget
236 Chompol Rd, 63000
Tel 0-5551-2507
∑ viangtakriverside.com
Slightly faded decor, but in a
great location. Free Wi-Fi,
friendly staff and a very
good restaurant.
UMPHANG: Tu Ka Su Cottage
Budget
40 Moo 6, 63170
Tel 0-5556-1295
∑ tukasu.webs.com
Offers a range of cozy cottages
set in shady gardens. The very
helpful owners also run trips to
Thi Lo Su falls.
Northwest Heartland
CHIANG DAO:
Chiang Dao Nest
B&B
144/4 Moo 5, 50170
Tel 0-5345-6242
∑ chiangdaonest.com
Well-appointed bungalows with
a rustic feel. This place also offers
organized treks up the mountain.
Pavilion at the Four Seasons Resort
CHIANG MAI: Baan Kaew
Guesthouse
142 Charoenprathet Rd, 50100
 Tel 0-5327-1606
∑ baankaew-guesthouse.com
Comfortable hotel near the Night
Bazaar, with simple but spotless
rooms. Very friendly staff.
CHIANG MAI: Hollanda Montri
Guesthouse
365 Charoenrat Rd, 50000
Tel 0-5324-2450
∑ hollandamontri.com
Long-standing riverside option
with basic rooms. A bit outside
the town center.
CHIANG MAI: Micasa
Modern
 2/2 Soi 4, Tha Pae Rd, 50100
Tel 0-5320-9127
∑ thaimicasa.com
Centrally located hotel with
attractive, well-equipped
rooms and helpful staff.
CHIANG MAI: Roong Ruang
Budget
398 Tha Pae Rd, 50300
 Tel 0-5323-4746
∑ roongruang.com
Spacious rooms set around a
courtyard a few steps from Tha
Phae Gate. Great value for money.
DK Choice
CHIANG MAI: Baan Orapin 
Historic
150 Charoenrat Rd, 50000
Tel 0-5324-3677
∑ baanorapin.com
Traditonally decorated teak
rooms in a century-old,
 Colonial-style house. Set in a
relaxing, tropical garden, the
hotel is a short distance from
some of the town’s best
restaurants and shops on the
east bank of the Ping River.
CHIANG MAI: Chiang Mai
Gate Hotel
Modern
11/10 Suriyawong Rd, 50100
Tel 0-5320-3895
∑ chiangmaigatehotel.com
Smart rooms with Lanna decor,
just south of the old city and near
the Saturday Walking Street.
CHIANG MAI:
De Naga Chiang Mai
Boutique
21 Soi 2, Ratchamanka, Moon
Muang Rd, 50100
Tel 0-5320-9030
∑ denagahotel.com
Stay in beautiful Thai-style rooms
in a great location in the old city,
near the temples.
For more information on types of hotels see pp398–401
W H E R E TO S TAY  405
 CHIANG MAI: Kanatary Hills 
Modern
44/1–2, Soi 12, Nimmanheimin Rd,
50200
Tel 0-5322-2111
∑ kantarycollection.com
Spacious rooms and efficient
service at this smart hotel.
 CHIANG MAI: U Chiang Mai 
Boutique
70 Ratchadamnoen Rd, 50200
Tel 0-5332-7000
∑ uhotelsresorts.com
Beautiful rooms in a resort ideally
situated in the old city.
CHIANG MAI: Anantara
 Chiang Mai 
Luxury
123 Charoen Prathet Rd, 50100
Tel 0-5325-3333
∑ chiang-mai.anantara.com
Sleek contemporary rooms and
stunning grounds. Great location.
CHIANG MAI:
 Dhara Dhevi 
Luxury
51/4 Chiang Mai–Sankampaeng Rd,
Moo 1, 50000
Tel 0-5388-8888
∑ dharadhevi.com
Dreamlike Lanna-style village with
a renowned spa and a choice of
villas, suites, or stately “residences”.
CHIANG MAI:
Four Seasons Resort 
Luxury
Mae Rim–Old Samoeng Rd, 50180
Tel 0-5329-8181
∑ fourseasons.com/chiangmai
Opulent Lanna-style pavilions
overlooking rice fields.
CHIANG MAI: Ping Nakara 
Luxury
135/9 Charoen Prathet Rd, 50100
Tel 0-5325-2999
∑ pingnakara.com
Colonial-style rooms in a stunning
building. Superb spa facilities
and service.

CHIANG MAI:
Rachamankha 
Luxury
6 Rachamankha 9, 50200
Tel 0-5390-4111
∑ rachamankha.com
Reminiscent of a temple complex,
this hotel offers stylish rooms
with plenty of privacy.

CHIANG MAI:
Tamarind Village 
Luxury
50/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd, 50200
Tel 0-5341-8896-9
∑ tamarindvillage.com
Peaceful compound in the old
city. Well-equipped rooms.
406  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
LAMPANG: The Riverside
Guest House 
Guesthouse
286 Talad Kao Rd, 52000
Tel 0-5422-7005
∑ theriverside-lampang.com
One of the best places to stay in
Lampang. Choose between
simple rooms and large suites.
LAMPANG: Lampang River
Lodge 
Boutique
330 Moo 11, Tambol Chompoo, 52100
Tel 0-5433-6640-1
∑ lampangriverlodge.com
Restful retreat on the banks of the
Wang River, with two restaurants.
DK Choice
MAE HONG SON:
Fern Resort 
Boutique
64 Moo 10, Ban Hua Nam Mae
Sakut, Tambol Pha Bong, 58000
Tel 0-5368-6110
∑ fernresort.info
This wonderful eco-lodge has
gorgeous, Shan-style wooden
bungalows set among rice
paddy fields. Tastefully furnished
rooms with private balconies.
Complete seclusion, with no TVs
or phones in the rooms.
MAE HONG SON: Golden Pai &
Suites Resort 
Modern
285/1 Ban Pangmoo, 58000
Tel 0-5362-0653-5
∑ goldenpairesort.com
Large, comfortably furnished
bungalows scattered around an
expansive tropical garden.
MAE HONG SON: Imperial
Mae Hong Son 
Modern
149 Moo 8, Tambol Pang Moo, 58000
Tel 0-5368-4444
∑ imperialhotels.com
Spacious rooms with fantastic
views of lush hillsides.
PAI: Baan Tawan  Anantara Golden Triangle
Guesthouse
117 Moo 4, 58130
Tel 0-5369-8116
∑ baantawan-pai.com
Teak wood houses on stilts in lush
gardens by the riverside. Huge
bungalows available for families.
PAI: Pai Island 
Boutique
333 Moo 1, Tambon Vieng-Tai, 58130
Tel 0-5369-9999
∑ paiislandresort.com
A luxurious resort in a truly
spectacular setting. It offers
total privacy.
Key to Price Guide see page 402
Far North
CHIANG KHONG: Mekong
Riverside Hotel
Budget
174–176 Moo 8, Chiang Khong,
57140
Tel 0-5379-1796
∑ namkhongriverside.net
Right on the Mekong, with
stunning views over to Laos.
Simple rooms at excellent rates.
CHIANG RAI: Chat House
B&B
3/2 Sangkaew Trirat Rd, 57000
Tel 0-5371-1481
∑ chatguesthouse.com
A classic travelers’ hang-out.
Run for over 30 years by the
same friendly and helpful family.
Good food in the restaurant.
CHIANG RAI: Imperial River
House Resort 
Boutique
482 Moo 4, Mae Kok Rd, 57000
Tel 0-5375-0830-4
∑ imperialriverhouse.com
Imperial River House is the best
of several sumptuous resorts
beside the Kok River. Lavish
rooms and first-rate service.
CHIANG RAI: Le Meridien 
Luxury
221/2 Moo 20, Kwaewai Rd, 57000
Tel 0-5360-3333
∑ lemeridienchiangrai.com
Slick modern rooms on the banks
of the Mae Kok. Close to the city
center, with a good sized pool.
CHIANG SAEN: Gin’s
Mekhong View Resort
Budget
225 Moo 8, T. Wiang, 57150
Close to town, these pleasant
rooms and bungalows offer
great views of the Mekong.
Good spa services.
DK Choice
CHIANG SAEN:
Resort & Spa 
Luxury
229 Moo 1, Golden Triangle, Sop
Ruak 57150
Tel 0-5378-4084
∑ goldentriangle.anantara.com
A splendid resort with well-
appointed rooms that overlook
the borders of three countries.
A particularly good place to get
up close with elephants on
their mahout training course.
Facilities include a cooking
school and a luxurious spa.
First-rate staff.
CHIANG SAEN: Four Seasons
Tented Camp 
Luxury
Golden Triangle, Sop Ruak, 57150
 Tel 0-5391-0200
∑ fourseasons.com/goldentriangle
Enjoy river cruises along the
Mekong, and stay in some
truly luxurious tents.
MAE CHAN:
Chang Garden Resort 
Modern
69 Moo 6, 57110
 Tel 0-80-1270-526
∑ chang-garden.com
A family resort of villas, with a pool,
playground, restaurant, bar, and
even a fish pond.
MAE SAI: Mae Sai 
Guesthouse
Riverside Rd, 57130
Tel 0-5373-2021
No-frills family-run place by the
riverbank. Friendly staff.
NAN: Sukkasem Hotel 
Budget
119–121 Anantaworarichidet Rd,
55000
Tel 0-5477-2555
Centrally-located hotel in the
offering compact doubles and
family rooms.
NAN: Phuka Nanfa 
Boutique
369 Sumonthevaraj Rd, 55000
Tel 0-5477-1111
∑ pukhananfahotel.co.th
An 80-year-old hotel, beautifully
decorated in a mixture of antique
and modern styles. Wi-Fi available.
 PHRAE: Mae Yom
Palace Hotel 
Modern
181/6 Yantrakitkosan Rd, 54000
Tel 0-5452-1029
With helpful staff and the town’s
only swimming pool, this is one
of the best places to stay in Phrae.
Camping at the Four Seasons

THA TON: Old Tree’s House 
Modern
323 Ban Rumthai, 50280
Tel 08-5722-9002
∑ oldtreeshouse.net
Six luxurious bungalows with
great views, and two large pools.
Khorat Plateau
BAN CHIANG: Lakeside
Sunrise 
Guesthouse
West side of lake, 36260
Tel 08-0193-4300
Friendly guesthouse close to the
archaeological site. Large rooms.
CHAIYAPHUM:
Lert Namit Hotel  Tel 0-4425-6629
Budget
447/1 Nivesrat Rd, 36000
Tel 0-4481-1522
∑ lertnimit.com
Great for visiting nearby villages.
Book a suite for air-conditioning.
KHON KAEN: Khon Kaen Hotel  DK Choice
Budget
43/2 Pimpasute Rd, 40000
Tel 0-4333-3222
∑ khonkaen-hotel.com
Popular business hotel with
large, well-equipped rooms
and great entertainment.
KHON KAEN: Charoen Thani
Princess 
Modern
260 Si Chan Rd, 40000
Tel 0-4322-0400
∑ charoenthani.com
A centrally located hotel with
cozy rooms and good facilities.
KHON KAEN: Pullman Khon
Kaen Raja Orchid 
Modern
9/9 Prachasamran Rd, 40000
Tel 0-4332-2155
∑ pullmanhotels.com
Plush carpeted rooms, a large pool,
and a magnificent central atrium.
KHORAT: Lamai Homestay  Boutique
Guesthouse
23/1 Moo 3, Ban Khopet, 30000
Tel 08-6258-5894
∑ thailandhomestay.com
The owners at this simple guest-
house treat you like old friends and
act as your personal tour guides.
KHORAT: Siri Hotel  SURIN: Pirom’s House
Budget
688–690 Pho Klang Rd, 30000
Tel 0-4434-1822
∑ sirihotelkorat.com
Charming rooms in a convenient
location, with a restaurant,
karaoke room, and family room.
The striking façade of the Pullman Khon Kaen
KHORAT:
Dusit Princess Khorat
Modern
1137 Suranarai Rd, 30000
∑ dusit.com
An excellent standard of
accommodation, with spacious
rooms, extensive facilities, and
efficient service.
KHORAT: Sima Thani 
Modern
2112/2 Mittraphap Rd, 30000
Tel 0-4421-3100
∑ simathani.com
The Sima Thani features a
stunning five-story atrium and
offers spacious, comfortable,
carpeted rooms. The extensive
facilities include a swimming
pool, sauna, fitness center,
and a choice of restaurants.
There are also many business
and conference facilities
on site.
PHIMAI: Phimai Inn Hotel
Budget
33/1 Bypass Rd, 30110
Tel 0-4428-7228
∑ phimaiinn.com
Well-maintained hotel with a
huge pool, a decent restaurant,
and free Wi-Fi. Located near the
ruins at Phimai.
ROI ET: Phrae Thong Hotel
B&B
45–47 Th Ploenchit, 45000
Tel 0-4351-1127
Simple, low-cost rooms with a
light and airy feel in the center
of Roi Et.

Guesthouse
55/326 Soi Arunee, Thungpo Rd, 32000
Tel 0-4451-5140
This place is particularly popular
for the local knowledge of the
owners, who also help organize
tours. Basic but well-kept rooms.
For more information on types of hotels see pp398–401
W H E R E TO S TAY  407
SURIN: Surin Majestic 
 Modern
99 Jitbumrung Rd, 32000
Tel 0-4471-3980-3
∑ surinmajestic.com
Situated right in the town
center. A comfortable hotel
with a large pool and well-
appointed rooms.
UDON THANI: Centara Hotel
& Convention Centre 
Modern
277/1 Prajaksillapakhom Rd, 41000
Tel 0-4234-3555
∑ centarahotelsresorts.com
The Centara is a business and
leisure hotel boasting many
facilities, including a spa.
Conveniently located near
shops in the center of town.
Very friendly staff.
Mekong River Valley
CHIANG KHAN: Husband &
Wife 
Guesthouse
 241 Chaikhong Rd, 42110
Tel 08-5464-8008
Attached to a craft shop, this rustic
riverside retreat is like an extension
of the imaginative goods on sale.
Every detail is beautifully crafted.
CHIANG KHAN:
Chiang Khan Hill Resort 
 28/2 Ruam Chai Narumit Rd, Kaeng
Khut Khu, 42110
Tel 0-4282-1285
∑ chiangkhanhill.com
In an idyllic spot by the Mekong
River, a little downstream from
Chiang Khan, this well-equipped
resort is calm and restful.
LOEI: Sugar Guesthouse 
Guesthouse
4/1 Soi 2, Wisuttitep Rd, 42000
Tel 0-4281-2982
This friendly place has fan rooms
with shared bathrooms and air-
conditioned rooms with en-suites.
408  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
DK Choice
LOEI: Loei Palace Hotel
Modern
167/4 Charoenrat Rd, 42000
Tel 0-4281-5668-73
∑ oamhotels.com/loeipalace
This is an excellent base for
visiting the nearby national
parks. Rooms are decorated in
warm colors and are equipped
with every amenity. Opt for a
room on the upper floors to
enjoy the panoramic views.
MUKDAHAN: Ploy Palace
Modern
40 Phitak Phanom Khet Rd, 49000
Tel 0-4263-1111
∑ ploypalace.com
Pleasant rooms and some great
views from the upper floors.
Friendly staff.
NAKHON PHANOM:
Viewkong Hotel
Budget
527 Sunthorn Wichit Rd, 48000
Tel 0-4251-3564
∑ viewkonghotel.com
Lovely views of the Mekong, as
the name suggests. Spacious
well-appointed rooms.
NONG KHAI: Mut Mee
Guesthouse
1111/4 Kaew Worawut Rd, 43000
Tel 0-4246-0717
∑ mutmee.com
This first-rate guesthouse has a
choice of basic and more well-
equipped rooms. Friendly staff.
NONG KHAI: Pantawee Hotel
Budget
1049 Haisoke Rd, 43000
Tel 0-4241-1568-9
∑ pantawee.com
Excellent hotel with a range of
facilities, including computers
in rooms and a small pool.
NONG KHAI: Grand Paradise
Hotel 
Modern
589 Moo 5, Nong Khai–Poanpisai Rd,
43000
Tel 0-4242-0033, 090-5806499
∑ grandparadisenongkhai.com
A great base to explore the area,
with large, clean and comfortable
rooms. A lovely rooftop restaurant.
PHU KRADUNG: Phu Kradung
National Park Bungalows  Boutique
Guesthouse
Phu Kradung National Park, 42180
Tel 0-2562-0760
∑ dnp.go.th
These basic bungalows are good
for big groups. Available for hikers
every year from October to May.
Key to Price Guide see page 402
KO CHANG: Kaibae Hut Resort 
Budget
 Kai Bae Beach, 23170
Tel 0-3955-7142
∑ kaibaehutresort.com
Well-run place with a variety of
simple rooms and bungalows.
Good food.
KO CHANG: Nirvana 
Modern
Ao Bang Bao, 23170
Tel 0-3955-8061
∑ nirvanakohchang.com
Splendidly isolated hotel on the
island’s southern tip. Two pools.

KO CHANG:
Sea View Resort and Spa 
Luxury private villas at Soneva Kiri Boutique
Hat Kaibae, 23170
THAT PHANOM: Tel 0-3955-2888
Kritsadarimkhong Hotel  ∑ seaviewkohchang.com
Budget Beautiful garden and a fantastic
90–93 Rimkhong Rd, 48110 spa. Variety of accommodation
Tel 0-4254-0088 types and prices. Great value.
 ∑ ksdresort.com
Basic accommodation by the KO CHANG:
river in this tiny but charming Siam Beach Resort 
town. A pleasant restaurant. Modern
Hat Tha Nam, 23170
UBON RATCHATHANI: Tel 08-4524-4321
Ratchathani Hotel  ∑ siambeachresort.in.th
Budget Fantastic location away from the
297 Khuenthani Rd, 34000 busy beach area, with bungalows
 Tel 0-4524-4388 built on a hillside. Delicious food.
Smart decor and a central
location. Ask for a quiet room KO CHANG:
at the back. Aiyapura Resort 
Luxury
UBON RATCHATHANI: Sri Isan  Baan Khlong Son, 23170
Budget Tel 0-3955-5111
62 Phadaeng Rd, 34000 ∑ aiyapura.com
Tel 0-4526-1011 Expansive beachfront location,
 ∑ sriisanhotel.com with organic gardens and a
Well-equipped but compact lovely pool. Good for families.
rooms. Great location in the
town center. KO CHANG:
Emerald Cove Resort 
UBON RATCHATHANI: Tohsang Luxury
City Hotel  Hat Khlong Phrao, 23170
Modern Tel 0-3955-2000
251 Phalochai Rd, 34000 ∑ emeraldcovekohchang.com
Tel 0-4524-5531 Well-managed hotel with large
∑ tohsang.com rooms, a huge pool, an Italian
This sophisticated hotel offers restaurant and kids’ activities.
lots of amenities, superb service,
and fine dining.
DK Choice
KO KUT: Soneva Kiri 
Luxury
Eastern Seaboard 110 Moo 4, 23000
Tel 0-3961-9800
CHANTHABURI: Baan Luang ∑ soneva.com
Rajamaitri Historic Inn  This spectacular villa resort is
original in both design and
252 Sukhaphiban Rd, Watmai, 22000 service. The owners operate on
Tel 0-66-81-915-8815 an ethos of sustainability and the
∑ baanluangrajamaitri.com “Slow Life”. There are many family-
As much a museum as a hotel, oriented activities. A private
this former residence of a local plane brings guests from
governor was built in the 1800s Bangkok airport to the island.
right on the river. Incomparable.

KO MAK: Lazy Day the Resort 
Boutique
Ko Mak, 23120
Tel 08-1882-4002
Aptly named beachside resort
with clean rooms and a serene,
restful ambience.
KO SAMET: Tub Tim Resort
Budget
Ao Tub Tim, 21160
Tel 0-3864-4025
∑ tubtimresort.com
Set at the southern end of a pretty
bay. Comfortable and quiet rooms
in a great location near the beach.
KO SAMET: Samed Villa 
Modern
Ao Phai, 21160
Tel 08-1761-5578
∑ samedvilla.com
Lovely collection of bungalows run
by a Swiss/Thai family. Ask for
rooms with a sea view.
KO SAMET: Sang Thian
Beach Resort 
Modern
Ao Thian, 21160
Tel 0-3864-4255
∑ sangthianbeachresort.com
Clean well-kept rooms on one of
the quieter beaches on the island.
The staff speak limited English.
KO SAMET: Le Vimarn 
Luxury
Ao Phrao, 21160
Tel 0-3864-4104
∑ levimarncottage.com
Opulent resort on Ko Samet’s
quiet west coast. The teak villas
are furnished in bamboo and
woven fabrics. Private Jacuzzis.
PATTAYA: Ice Inn
Budget
528/2–3 Second Rd, Soi 12, 20260
Tel 0-3872-0671
∑ iceinnpattaya.com
Clean, functional, and very close
to the beach. The quietest rooms
are at the back.
PATTAYA: Hard Rock Hotel 
Modern
429 Moo 9, Beach Rd, 20260
Tel 0-3842-8755-9
∑ hardrockhotels.net
A lively hotel with a dedicated
entertainment team. Huge pool,
excellent spa, and Western food.
PATTAYA: Woodlands Resort 
Modern
164/1 Moo 5, Pattaya–Naklua Rd,
20150
Tel 0-3842-1707
∑ woodland-resort.com
Attractive Colonial-style resort
in a quiet area. Ideal for families.
Cooking classes offered.
W H E R E TO S TAY  409
PATTAYA: Royal Cliff CHA-AM: Sofitel So 
Hotels Group  Luxury
Luxury 115 Moo 7, Tambol Bangkao, 76120
353 Moo 12, Pratumnak Rd, 20150 Tel 0-3270-9555
Tel 0-3825-0421 ∑ sofitel.com
∑ royalcliff.com Sophisticated, contemporary
One of Pattaya’s largest resorts, decor. Rooms surround a huge
with a private beach and a wide reflecting pool.
 range of facilities.
HUA HIN: Amara Resort 
PATTAYA: Budget
Sheraton Pattaya Resort  16/55 Hua Hin Soi 94, 77110
Luxury Tel 0-3251-6315
437 Pratumnak Rd, 20150 ∑ amarahuahin.com
Tel 0-3825-9888 This quiet, clean place located
∑ sheratonpattayaresort.com away from the beach offers
On a picturesque headland, with gardens and a pool.
a small private beach. Superb spa
and gourmet dining. HUA HIN: K Place Guest House 
Budget
PATTAYA: Sugar Hut  116 Naresdamri Rd, 77110
Luxury Tel 0-3251-1396
391/18 Moo 10, Thabpraya Rd, 20260 Close to the beach and the
Tel 0-3825-1686 Night Market, this place has
∑ sugar-hut.com spacious, spotless rooms.
Thai-style villas set back from
the beach with superb gardens. HUA HIN: Anantasila Villas 
Very good restaurant. Boutique
35/15 Phethkasem Rd, Nongkae,
RAYONG: Wang Gaew  77110
Modern Tel 0-3253-6364
214 Pae-Klaeng Rd, Charkpong, 21110 ∑ anantasila.com
Tel 0-3863-8067 Beachfront resort south of town,
∑ wangkaew.co.th next to a fishing village. With
An eclectic collection of beach sleek rooms, a lovely a big pool,
houses with kitchens on a private and lots of activities for kids.
bay. Good for longer stays.
HUA HIN: Evergreen
TRAT: Ban Jaidee  Boutique Hotel 
Guesthouse Boutique
67 Chaimongkhon Rd, 23000 Phetkasem Rd, Soi 45, 77110
Tel 0-3952-0678 Tel 0-3251-3318
Simple clean rooms and a warm Near the beach, this hotel is
friendly atmosphere. popular with golfers. Nice decor
and a great breakfast buffet.
 HUA HIN:
Western Seaboard Anantara Resort & Spa 
Luxury
CHA-AM: Beach Terrace  45/1 Phetkasem Rd, 77110
Modern Tel 0-3252-0250
854/4 Suksamer Rd, Bang Saiyoy, 76120 ∑ anantara.com
Tel 0-3250-8502 Choose from lagoon- or sea-
Peaceful beachfront hotel away facing rooms with private pools.
from the center. Friendly and Guests can relax in the expansive
efficient management. Great gardens or in the spa. Great
value for the region. dining choices.
Stunning views from Royal Cliff Hotels Group
For more information on types of hotels see pp398–401
410  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
DK Choice
HUA HIN: Chiva Som 
Luxury
73/4 Phetkasem Rd, 77110
Tel 0-3253-6536
∑ chivasom.com
Long before spas became a
trendy amenity, Chiva Som was
offering serious wellness
programs focusing on
wholesome diets and holistic
practices such as massage and
yoga. Expect attentive service
and a luxurious experience.
KO PHA NGAN: Blue Lotus
Resort
B&B
Ban Kai, 84280
Tel 0-7723-8489
∑ bluelotusresort.com
Quiet beachside resort with a
relaxing atmosphere. Thai and
Mexican cuisine on offer.
KO PHA NGAN: Blue Ocean
Garden Resort
Boutique
Chao Pao Beach, 84280
Tel 08-7086-2697
∑ blueoceangarden.com
Well-managed resort in a stunning
beachside setting. Italian food.
KO PHA NGAN:
Cocohut Village
Resort
Sekantang Beach, 84280
Tel 0-7737-5368
∑ cocohut.com
Located on Sunset Beach,
Cocohut offers a variety of
luxurious accommodations.
KO SAMUI: Free House
Budget
175/7 Moo 1, Bophut, 84140
Tel 0-7742-7516
∑ freehousesamui.com
Great beachfront huts in
relatively quiet Bophut. Non-
guests come just for the food.
KO SAMUI: Code 
Boutique
55/13 Moo 6, Bang Por Soi 4, Mae
Nam, 84140
Tel 0-7760-2122
∑ samuicode.com
Hillside suites and villas with
minimalist contemporary decor.
Superb views. Great for couples.
KO SAMUI: Coral Cove Chalet 
Modern
210 Moo 4, Tong Takian Beach, 84140
Tel 0-7742-2260
∑ coralcovechalet.com
Attractive chalets on a palm-
covered hill, with a private white-
sand beach and good snorkeling.
Key to Price Guide see page 402
KO SAMUI: Four Seasons  spa plus fishing, water sports,
Luxury hiking, and biking.
219 Moo 5, Ang Thong, Laem Yai,
84140 PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN:
Tel 0-7724-3000 Coral Hotel 
∑ fourseasons.com/kohsamui Resort
Luxurious villas with spectacular Bang Saphan, Ban Suan Luan, 77140
sea views and private infinity Tel 0-3281-7121
pools. World-class spa and cuisine. ∑ coral-hotel.com
This lovely Thai-style resort offers
KO SAMUI: The Library  large quarters for families. Fishing
Boutique and diving trips can be arranged.
14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, 84140
Tel 0-7742-2767 PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN:
∑ thelibrary.co.th Sailom Resort BB 
Free-standing villas with Modern
contemporary decor and original 299 Moo 5, Mae Rumpeung, Bang
artwork. Huge library. Saphan, 85000
 Tel 0-3269-1003
KO SAMUI: The Saboey  ∑ sailombangsaphan.com
Boutique Spacious rooms and a fantastic
51/4 Moo 4, Big Buddha Beach, 84140 pool. Great for families.
Tel 0-7743-0456
∑ saboey.com SURAT THANI: 100 Islands
Beautifully designed suites and Resort & Spa 
villas. Superb seafood restaurant. Boutique
19/6 Mu 3 Bypass Rd, Makhamtia,
84000

DK Choice Tel 0-7720-1150
KO SAMUI: Six Senses ∑ roikoh.com
Hideaway  On the outskirts of town, this
Luxury excellent value teak palace has
9/10 Moo 5, Baan Plai Laem, lovely gardens, a spa, and a pool.
Bophut, 84320
Tel 0-7724-5678
∑ sixsenses.com
Set on a hillside overlooking the Upper Andaman
Gulf of Thailand on Ko Samui’s
Coast

quiet north coast, this collection
of 66 villas offers truly opulent
accommodation in an unrivaled PHANGNGA BAY: Six Senses
setting. Each villa has either a Yao Noi 
Jacuzzi or a private infinity pool. Luxury
Excellent service and food. 56 Mu 5, Koh Yao Noi, 82160
Tel 0-7641-8500
∑ sixsenses.com
 KO TAO: JP Resort  Luxury beyond comparison.
Budget Villas with private pools and
18/4 Moo 3, ChalokBanKao Bay, 84000 personal service. Excellent spa
Tel 0-7745-6099 and great chefs at the restaurant.
∑ jpresort.asia
Good value hotel close to the
beach. Quiet location and
great restaurant.
KO TAO: Jamahkiri
Resort & Spa 
Boutique
Thian Ok Bay, 84000
Tel 0-7745-6400
∑ jamahkiri.com
Stay in one of 12 pavilions set
amid boulders in an isolated bay.
Superb spa and diving school.
PHETCHABURI: Fisherman’s
Resort 
Luxury
170 Mu 1, Haad Chao Samrin, 76000
Tel 0-3244-1370
∑ thefishermansresort.com
Lavish beachfront villas set in a
traditional fishing village. Superb Stunning villa with private pool at Six Senses

PHANGNGA COAST: Golden
Buddha Beach Resort 
Modern
Ko Phra Thong, 82210
Tel 08-1892-2208
∑ goldenbuddharesort.com
Individually designed teak cottages
on a peaceful, undeveloped island,
with yoga and vegetarian food.
PHANGNGA COAST:
Aleenta 
Luxury
33 Moo 2, Khok Kloy, 82210
Tel 0-7658-0333
∑ aleenta.com
Secluded hotel with trendy
minimalist decor. Good spa.
PHUKET: Casa Brazil
B&B
9 Moo 3 Soi Luang Por Chuan 1,
Karon Beach, 83000
Tel 0-7639-6317
∑ phukethomestay.com
Quirky decor and friendly staff at
this homestay and gallery. Nice
central courtyard with garden.
PHUKET: Fantasy Hill Bungalow 
Guesthouse
8/1 Patak Rd, Karon Beach, 83100
Tel 0-7633-0106
Spacious rooms with large
balconies. Quiet hilltop location,
but convenient for the beaches.
PHUKET: Shanti Lodge
Guesthouse
1/2 Soi Bangrae, Choafa Nok Rd,
Ao Chalong, 83000
Tel 0-7628-0233
∑ shantilodge.com
Bungalows in a quiet village
away from the coast. A calm and
relaxing place. Yoga offered.
PHUKET: Baipho 
Boutique
205/12–13 Rat-U-Tit Rd, Patong
Beach, 83150
Tel 0-7629-2074
∑ baipho.com
Chic centrally located place with
friendly staff. Modern decor and
tasty European food.
PHUKET: Sino House 
Boutique
1 Montree Rd, 83000
Tel 0-7623-2495
∑ sinohousephuket.com
Well-located hotel with lovely
Chinese decor. Small on-site spa.
PHUKET: Sugar Marina
Resort Fashion 
Modern
20/10 Kata Rd, Kata Beach, 83160
Tel 0-7628-4404
∑ sugarmarina-fashion.com
This stylish, lively resort close to
the beach has spacious rooms.
W H E R E TO S TAY  411
Sleek contemporary decor at the secluded resort Indigo Pearl
PHUKET: Amanpuri  RANONG: Sabai-Sabai
Luxury Beach Bungalows 
118 Moo 3, Sri Santhorn Rd, Pansea Budget
Beach, 83110 Near Mook Bay, Ko Phayam,
 Tel 0-7632-4333 85000
∑ amanresorts.com Tel 08-7895-4653
Phuket’s original six-star resort ∑ sabai-bungalows.com
and spa, still considered the best Enjoy yoga and cooking classes at
by many. Impeccable service. this affordable but clean place. It
also offers a wide variety of room
PHUKET: Banyan Tree types. You can even camp on the
Resort  beach if you wish.
Luxury
33/37 Moo 4, Sri Soonthorn Rd,
Cherng Thalae, 83110
Tel 0-7637-2400 Deep South
∑ banyantree.com
Lavish pool villas on a tranquil HAT YAI: Centara 
lagoon. Superb food and spa. Modern
3 Sanehanusorn Rd, 90110
PHUKET: Indigo Pearl  Tel 0-7435-2222
Luxury ∑ centarahotelsresorts.com
 Nai Yang Beach, adjoining This modern high-rise hotel is
Nai Yang National Park, 83110 part of a Thai chain and popular
Tel 0-7632-7006 with business clientele.
∑ indigo-pearl.com A delightful rooftop pool.
Chic luxurious rooms designed
using industrial materials. Unique HAT YAI: Regency 
hotel in an isolated location. Modern
23 Prachatipat Rd, 90110
PHUKET: The Royal Phuket Tel 0-7435-3333-47
Yacht Club  ∑ theregencyhatyai.com
Luxury Spread over 28 floors in two
23/3 Moo 1, Viset Rd Rawai, 83100 wings, the Regent and the
Tel 0-7638-0200-19 fancier Royal offer over 400
∑ puravarna.com rooms. Plush lobby area and
Phuket’s original luxury hotel, the a great location.
Royal Phuket Yacht Club is built on
a hillside on the southern tip of SONGKHLA: BP
the island. Understated elegance. Samila Beach Hotel 
Budget
8 Rachadamnoen Nok Rd, 90000
DK Choice Tel 0-7444-0222
PHUKET: Villa Royale  Great beachside setting, yet
Boutique close to center of town. Glory
12 Kata Noi Rd, Kata Noi Beach, somewhat faded, but fantastic
83100 views and friendly staff.
Tel 0-7633-3569
∑ villaroyalephuket.com SONGKHLA: Rajamangala
This hotel is a long-established Pavilion Beach Resort 
oasis of good taste, luxury, and Modern
high standards. Choose from 1 Rachadamnoen Nok Rd, 90000
gorgeous suites or free- Tel 0-7448-7222
standing villas. The food is ∑ pavilionhotels.com
famous, and there is an on-site Located a short drive away from
gourmet Thai cooking school. downtown Songkhla. All rooms
Charming, friendly staff. have views of the Gulf of Thailand
from their private balconies.
For more information on types of hotels see pp398–401
412  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT
Thailand is fortunate in being a land of
plenty. Because much of the land is fertile
and the population has always been small
relative to the size of the country, famine is
all but unknown. In the 13th century King
Ramkamhaeng of Sukhothai, the first Thai
kingdom, recorded: “This land is thriving …
in the water are fish, in the fields there is rice.”
He might also have mentioned the wide
range of tropical fruits, vegetables, and
spices – to which have been added, since
his day, a wealth of imports from tropical
America, thriving in their new Old World
setting. The range of dishes, as well as the
variety and freshness of the ingredients,
make for one of the world’s great cuisines.
Thais love to eat: six or seven meals a day
is not uncommon. Wherever there are
people there are restaurants and food
stands. As well being famed for its flavor
and freshness, Thai cuisine is beautifully
presented, and dishes are often be garnished
with flowers and rosettes carved out of
colorful vegetables and fruit.

enthusiasm. McDonald’s and

Kentucky Fried Chicken are
increasingly visible, but the most
popular imports appear to be
pizza and pasta, which can be
found in just about any provincial
capital. However, quality does
vary from place to place.

Sino-Portuguese style decor at Fujian, Chiang Mai (see p423)
Restaurants
Bangkok’s dining scene is one
of the most cosmopolitan in
Southeast Asia. Italian and French
cuisine have long been part of
the culinary landscape, but
now diners can also enjoy
trendy Mexican bars and grills,
sophisticated Japanese
restaurants, five-star hotel
Sunday brunches, and traditional
Thai food served up with
contemporary flair. Most urban
restaurants, especially those
serving Western food, open at
about 11am and close between
10pm and midnight. This can
mean that finding an early
Western-style breakfast is difficult
away from the tourist scene, in
which case a Thai omelet may
have to serve as a substitute.
Restaurants are almost always
listed in free tourist magazines –
virtually every major city and
resort in Thailand will issue
these. They can be picked up in
hotel reception lobbies, at banks
and money changers, as well as
in many restaurants. These
magazines usually list places
by cuisine and specialty, often
giving details of how to get there,
along with telephone numbers
for booking tables. Away from
the major tourist destinations,
the main hotels in every town
will usually have air-conditioned
restaurants offering a mixture
of Thai and Chinese cuisine.
Thais have taken to Western
cuisine, and especially to the
Western fast-food culture, with
Restaurant in the Sadet Market at
Nong Khai, by the Mekong River
Coffee Shops
Over the last decade, franchised
Western coffee shops and their
local equivalents have become
extremely popular, particularly
in the big cities and resort towns.
The clean, air-conditioned
shops have been a hit with the
younger generation, who often
gather there after school or
college. Local coffee shops are
still favored by older citizens,
who prefer strong, sweet coffee,
filtered through a cotton bag.
Served with condensed milk,
the coffee is excellent with
youtiao, a traditional deep-fried
Chinese breakfast doughnut.
Roadside and Market
Food Stands
Some of the best and most
reasonably priced food in
Thailand can be found at any
of the numerous roadside food
stalls. Generally speaking, such
establishments are clean and
unpretentious. These stands
are often mobile, allowing the
proprietors to push them home
and clean them every night.
The ingredients are openly
displayed behind glass panels.
Fast cooking processes, such as
flash-frying, grilling over

charcoal, or boiling are often
used. This means that the fare,
invariably fresh, should also be
well-cooked and safe to eat.
A sure way of measuring a
stall’s popularity, as anywhere
in the world, is by its patrons.
If there are plenty of locals
sitting at the simple tables most
stalls provide, then the chances
are the food is good. It is not
surprising to find a businessman
with a Mercedes parked nearby
sitting at the same stall as a
tuk-tuk driver. Thais from all
sectors of society know how to
appreciate good, cheap food.
Menus are rarely in English,
so it is a good idea to memorize
the names of your favorite
dishes from the food glossary
(see pp414–15). Alternatively,
point at a dish and ask to taste –
few Thais expect foreign visitors
to speak their language, and
they are always willing to help.
Khantoke Dining
A traditional style of dining in
Northern Thailand, khantoke
dinners are often arranged for
guests by hotels in Chiang Mai
and other Northern cities.
Diners sit on mats around a low,
circular table. The meal includes
a variety of Northern dishes
such as nam phrik num (a very
spicy dip), kap mu (pork skin)
and kaeng kai (a chicken and
vegetable curry), all of which are
served with khao niaw (sticky
rice) and washed down with
local beer. A khantoke dinner is
often accompanied by displays
of traditional Thai dancing.
Prices
Buying meals is one of the
cheapest aspects of a visit to
Thailand. The cost of alcohol,
however, can often be more
than the meal itself. It is
common practice for prices to
be displayed. Menus invariably
list them next to each dish.
The prices for shellfish are
often given by weight. In larger
establishments and international-
class hotels a service charge
and tax will usually be levied.
These extra costs will be
clearly detailed on the check.
Street vendor cooking satay for passers-by in a Bangkok park
Even at very small establishments
prices are nearly always fixed
and marked (in Arabic numerals)
on a board. Bargaining for
foodstuffs is surprisingly rare.
Tipping
Tipping was once unknown,
but its popularity is increasing
as Thais grow accustomed to
tips from tourists. Do not apply
a percentage: 10 percent of 50
baht may well be appropriate,
but 10 percent of an expensive
meal would be far too much.
Eating Habits in Thailand
The Thai philosophy of
nutrition is simple – if you are
hungry, eat. Nothing should
stand in the way. Most Thais,
moreover, eat little but often,
sometimes snacking six or
seven times a day. The concept
of three meals simply does not
apply in Thailand. Even though
people do indeed eat breakfast,
lunch, and dinner, they may
also stop for a bowl of noodles,
a fried snack, or a sweet at any
time of day.
Eating is a simple pleasure
and does not involve complex
rituals of etiquette, although
visitors should note a few rules.
Thais eat with a fork held in the
left hand and a spoon held in
the right hand. The fork is used
solely to push food onto the
spoon; eating straight from a
fork is considered crude. Since
food – especially meat – is cut
into pieces before it is cooked,
knives are not needed.
Thai noodle dishes are often
strongly influenced by Chinese
culinary traditions, and they are
w h e r e to e at  413
eaten using chopsticks and a
spoon. Another exception to
the general rule is sticky rice
(khao niaw), which is eaten –
delicately – using fingers.
Food in Thailand is generally
served communally in a series
of bowls. Only small rice bowls
are reserved for individual use.
Rice is traditionally served first,
and then a spoon is used to
ladle a spoonful from the
communal bowls on top of
the rice. Feel free to come
back for more as necessary.
Overloading your plate is
regarded as uncouth – there
is no hurry, and there is always
plenty more in the kitchen.
Recommended
Restaurants
The restaurants on the
following pages have been
carefully selected to give a
cross-section of options from
across the country. Included
are not only those places that
excel in producing tasty Thai
cuisine, but also those that
serve other Asian cuisines, such
as Japanese and Vietnamese,
as well as restaurants serving
international favorites like
steaks, salads, and burgers.
Besides the quality of food,
these recommendations take
into account the ambience
and level of service. However,
since taste is much more
important than presentation
for most Thai diners, many of
the places listed here lack the
kind of sophisticated ambience
so sought after by restaurants
in the West. For the best of the
best, look out for the restaurants
featuring the DK Choice label.
414  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

The Flavors of Thailand

Thai food is popular worldwide for its aromatic and spicy
qualities. Chili peppers were first imported to Thailand from
the New World in the 16th century by European traders. They
were adopted into Thai cuisine (especially the small, fiery ones)
with great enthusiasm, but mildly spiced dishes are also widely
available. Although influences from China and India can be
detected in stir-fries and curries, Thai inventiveness has resulted
in a dizzying range of dishes unique to the country. The cuisine
is full of distinctive flavors and complementary textures,
Nam pla phrik
nutritionally balanced and delightfully presented.

rolled into little balls, and thai (literally “Thai fry”). An

dipped in sauces. Rice porridge irresistible mix of noodles
(jok) is a typical breakfast dish, fried with fresh or dried shrimp,
often with egg, chilies, and rice egg, beancurd (tofu), and
vinegar stirred in. beansprouts, it vies with tom
Noodles, made of rice yam kung for the title of Thai
(kuaytiaw), wheat and egg national dish.
(bami), or mung beans (wun
sen), are usually served fried The Four Flavors
or in a soup. The most well- All Thai dishes strike a balance
known Thai noodle dish between the “four flavors” –
among foreigners is phad sweet, sour, salty, and hot –
Fish for sale on a local market stall in
Chiang Rai Lemongrass Ginger Shallots Thai basil
Galangal Chilies
Rice and Noodles Kaffir lime Turmeric
leaves
In common with those of all its
Southeast Asian neighbours,
the Thai diet is based on the
staples of rice and noodles. The
most popular type of rice is the
long-grained khao hom mali, or
fragrant jasmine rice, which is
usually steamed. However, in
the north and northeast, locals
prefer khao niaw, or sticky rice,
which is eaten with the fingers, Selection of typical Thai herbs, spices and flavorings

Regional Dishes and Specialities

Central Thai food is strongly influenced by
Chinese cuisine and accounts for most dishes
on menus nationwide, including the country’s
signature dish tom yam kung. Northern
Thai cuisine takes much of its inspiration
from Burma and Yunnan province in
China. Examples include khao soi, a
delicious dish of boiled and crispy
noodles in a mild curry broth, and
kaeng hang le. Northeastern Thais like
Pea eggplants their food with a kick, and one of their best-
(aubergines) known imports from nearby Laos is tangy,
crunchy som tam salad. Southern food is the
fieriest of the lot, with creamy coconut, vibrant turmeric, and Tom Yam Kung uses lemon
sharp ng in such typical dishes as sour and spicy kaeng luang pla. grass, galangal, kaffir lime, and
chili to flavor the hot and sour
shrimp broth.

Traders selling fruit and vegetables at Damnoen Saduak Floating Market
although the balance varies
from dish to dish. While Thai
cuisine has a reputation for
being liberal with its use of
chilies, it also features a wide
range of subtly flavoured dishes
that make use of aromatic herbs
and spices such as galangal,
lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves,
basil, and coriander (cilantro) to
enhance aroma and taste.
Pastes using these ingredients
are pounded by hand in a
mortar to ensure the freshest
flavor. However, the real key to
Thai cuisine is fish sauce (nam
pla), which adds its piquancy to
the vast majority of dishes.
Mixed with chilies, garlic, and
lemon, it becomes the popular
condiment nam pla phrik.
The Thai Meal
A typical Thai meal consists of a
soup, a curry, a stir-fry, and a
spicy Thai salad, as well as side
dishes of raw or steamed
Kaeng Hang Le, a dry, mild
curry of pork with ginger,
peanuts, and garlic, is served
with rice and Chinese greens.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
vegetables, served with a big
bowl of rice. The meal is rarely
divided into formal courses.
Westerners who do not realize
this often order a soup or a
salad as a starter whereas, in
fact, the spiciness of these
dishes is intended to be
toned down by eating them
with rice. However, Thai
Melon, expertly carved in the Thai style, as
a table decoration
Som Tam is shredded unripe
papaya and other vegetables,
with lime juice, chili, fish sauce,
and dried shrimps.
 415
restaurant staff are very likely
to serve all dishes ordered at
the same time anyway. The
only concession that Thais
make to courses is with
dessert, which is usually a plate
of mixed fruit intended to clear
the palate after the savory
dishes. Many foreign visitors
also like to indulge in a
national favorite – khao niaw
mamuang, or mango with
sticky coconut rice.
WHAT TO DRINK
Fruit juices Thailand’s wealth
of luscious fruits, such as
watermelon, mango, lychee,
and papaya, are blended into
juices, shakes and smoothies.
Chilled coconut juice, drunk
through a straw straight from
the nut, is perfect for slaking a
thirst on the beach.
Beers There is a good range of
beers available. Popular choices
are the full-bodied local Singha
and Chang.
Wines and spirits As well as
locally made rice wine, wines
from Europe and the New World
are widely available, and Thai
vineyards are also starting to
produce acceptable varieties.
The local spirits, Sang Som and
Hong Thong, are very palatable
when mixed with ice and soda.
Coffee and tea While not
traditional Thai drinks, excellent
varieties of both are now grown
in the northern hills.
Kaeng Lueng Pla is a spicy fish
soup with bamboo shoots,
flavored with tamarind, chili,
garlic, and palm sugar.
416  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

A Glossary of Typical
Thai Dishes
Thai cuisine is famously creative and varied (see pp42–3).
Even street vendors delight in their culinary skills, and it is
not uncommon to see food being encased in a banana
leaf as delicately as if it were being gift wrapped. Such
artful presentations and the sheer range of dishes can be
bewildering to newcomers: it may not even be obvious
what is savory or sweet. This glossary covers typical dishes;
phonetic guidance for food words is on pages 510–11.
dishes of the day will be on
Choosing Dishes display. If you don’t recognize
Restaurant menus in tourist the dish, pointing and saying A street vendor cooking over charcoal on a
areas may include descriptions “nee arai na?” (“what’s this?”) roadside stall
in English, and sometimes other should elicit a list of ingredients.
languages. The Thai names of Vegetarians should find it asking if a dish is spicy (phed
dishes often derive simply from easy to order food without meat mai?), or requesting a non-
the main elements – for instance, (mai ao nua), but ought to be spicy meal (mai ao phet na).
the dish khao mu daeng aware that fish sauce is used in To enliven any dish, diners can
translates literally as “rice, pork, many dishes. Dairy products use the ubiquitous condiments
red.” Thus, the basic components feature only rarely in Thai cuisine, of chilies in vinegar, chili flakes,
of any dish can often be worked so vegans should not fare worse sugar (for savory dishes), and
out with only a little knowledge than vegetarians. Thais are fish sauce usually found
of Thai. If there is no menu, the accustomed to foreigners on tables.

Snacks Khao tom mud served with peanut sauce

Thais love to snack. Almost every  and cucumber.
street corner has a selection of Sticky rice served in banana Tua thod
food stalls selling raw and leaves. 
freshly cooked snacks. Kluay ping Roasted cashews or peanuts.
Bami mu daeng 
 Charcoal-grilled bananas.
Egg noodles with red pork. Look chin ping Noodles
Khai ping  Rice noodles come as sen
 Meatballs with a chili sauce. yai (broad), sen lek
Charcoal-roasted eggs. Po pia tod (medium), and sen mi (thin).
Kai yang  Bami are egg noodles. Woon
 Deep-fried spring rolls. sen are thin, transparent
Charcoal-grilled chicken. Sai krok soy noodles.
Khanom beuang  Bami nam
 Thai beef or pork sausages. 
Filled, sweet, crisp pancakes. Satay Egg noodles in a broth with
Khanom khrok  vegetables and meat or fish.
 Slivers of beef, pork, Kuaytiaw haeng
Coconut puddings. or chicken grilled on a stick, 
Rice noodles served “dry” with
vegetables and meat or fish.
Kuaytiaw look chin pla

Fishballs with noodles.
Kuaytiaw nam

Rice noodles in a broth with
vegetables and meat or fish.
Phad thai

Rice noodles fried with
beancurd, egg, dried shrimp,
Street sellers and their customers in a Bangkok market peanuts, bean sprouts, and chili.
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  417

Rice Dishes Regional Dishes

Rice is the staple food. A familiar Kaeng hang le
Thai greeting, equivalent to “how 
are you?” is kin khao ru yang?, Pork, peanut, and ginger curry
literally “have you eaten rice?” from Chiang Mai.
Khao man kai Khao soi
 
Chinese-style chicken with rice Chicken or beef curry served
cooked in chicken stock. with wheat noodles, fresh
Khao mok kai lime, and pickled cabbage.
 A Northern specialty.
Thai-style chicken biriyani. Fragrant green leaves make a perfect Larb ped
Khao mu daeng wrapping for sticky rice 
 Northern spicy minced duck.
Chinese-style red pork served Kaeng matsaman Som tam
on a bed of fragrant rice.  
Khao na ped A mild curry from the Muslim Green papaya salad with
 South with chicken, peanuts, peanuts, from the Northeast.
Roast duck served on a bed of potatoes, and coconut milk. Yam thalay
fragrant rice. Kaeng phanaeng 
Khao phad mu/kung  Southern spicy seafood salad.
 Southern-style “dry” curry
Fried rice with pork or shrimp. with coconut and basil.
Kaeng phed Desserts
 Known as khong wan or “sweet
Soups A hot curry with red chilies, things,” these are mostly
Soups are diverse and inventive. lemon grass, and coriander. coconut- or fruit-based.
Some, such as jok, are eaten for Kaeng som Foy thong
breakfast. The word “sup” is  
widely recognized. Hot and sour curry, often Sweet, shredded egg yolk.
Jok with fish. Khao niaw mamuang
 
Ground rice porridge with Fresh mango served with sticky
minced pork and ginger. Seafood rice and coconut milk.
Khao tom An amazing variety of seafood is Kluay buat chi
 available at reasonable prices, 
Rice soup with a selection of particularly in the South. Bananas in coconut milk.
meat and vegetable side dishes. Hoi malaeng pu op Mo kaeng
Tom jeud tao hu  
 Steamed green mussels. Thai-style egg custard.
Mild broth with beancurd and Hoi thod
minced pork. 
Tom kha kai Oysters fried in batter Drinks
 with egg on a bed Bia
Chicken soup with galingale, of beansprouts. 
coconut milk, and lemon grass. Hu chalam Beer. Usually served in bottles.
Tom yam kung  Cha (nom) ron
 Shark’s fin soup. 
Shrimp, mushrooms, lemon Kung mangkon phao Hot tea with condensed milk.
grass, galingale, and coriander.  Kafae
Grilled lobster. 
Pla meuk yang Coffee, often instant.
Curries  Nam cha
Curries are served either rat Roasted sliced squid. 
khao (on a plate of rice) or in a Pla nung khing Chinese-style tea without milk.
bowl as an accompaniment  Nam kuad
to a central bowl of rice. Steamed fish with ginger, chili, 
Kaeng kari kai and mushrooms. Bottled water.
 Pla thod
Indian-style chicken and  Coconut seller on
potato. Deep-fried fish. the Floating Market
Kaeng khiaw wan Pu neung
 
Slightly sweet green curry. Steamed crab.
418  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Where to Eat and Drink
Bangkok
Old City
Roti Mataba  Wat Pho), 10200
Indian/Malay Map 2 D3
136 Phra Athit Rd, Chanasongkram,
10200
Tel 0-2282-2119 Closed Mon
Roti Mataba is an inexpensive
no-frills place where you can
enjoy a classic Indian/Malay roti,
a delicious fried flatbread, stuffed
with various fillings and served
with a small bowl of dhal or curry
sauce for dipping. They serve
good curries too. Very busy
at lunchtimes.
Aquatini 
Thai Map 1 C3
45/1 Phra Athit Rd, Chanasongkram,
10200
Tel 0-2280-9955
With a large, breezy riverside
terrace beside the Phra Athit
Pier, Aquatini is a convenient
spot to enjoy a seafood dish or
Thai curry washed down with a
cold beverage.
Deck by the River 
Thai Map 5 C1
Arun Residence, 36–38 Soi Pratu Nok
Yoong, Maharaj Rd, 10200
Tel 0-2221-9158
The food at Deck by the River
is prepared with great skill
and only the highest-quality
ingredients. Traditional Thai fare,
with a few Western dishes. Enjoy
great views of the famous Wat
Arun across the river, especially
at sunset.
Jay Fai 
Thai Map 3 E4
327 Mahachai Rd, 10200
Tel 0-2223-9384
Jay Fai is an unpretentious local
favorite renowned for its phad
khii mao, literally drunkard’s
noodles, a spicy fried noodle dish
with chicken and basil. This place
can get very busy, but it’s worth
the wait.
Kai Yang Boran 
Issan Map 2 D5
474–476 Tanao Rd, Banglamphu,
10200
Tel 0-2622-2349
This is an excellent choice for
those wishing to sample the food
from Thailand’s northeastern
Issan region. The place takes
its name from the region’s
signature dish, kai yang, or
roasted marinated chicken.
Pleasant air-conditioned interior.
Sala Rattanakosin Eatery
& Bar 
Thai/Western Map 5 B1
39 Maharat Rd, Tha Thien (behind
Tel 0-2622-1388
With views of the river and Wat
Arun, the scenery here rivals the
excellent food as an attraction.
Thai and imaginative Western
dishes are offered. Don’t miss
the rooftop bar.
Chinatown
Nai Sow
Chinese/Thai Map 6 F1
3/1 Maitrichit Rd, Pom Prap Sattru
Phai, 10220
Tel 0-2222-1539
Don’t be fooled by the humble
surroundings and simple decor;
this place dishes up truly
excellent Chinese and Thai food.
Try favorites such as tom yam
kung or hoi thod. Popular with
office workers at lunchtime.
Thip Samai  503–505 Samsen Rd Soi 9, 10200
Thai Map 2 E5
313 Maha Chai Rd, Samramrat,
Pra Nakorn, 10220
Tel 0-2221-6280
Established in 1966, this place
has a solid reputation for serving
the best phad thai in Bangkok.
Delicious fresh shrimp also on
offer, wrapped in an omelet,
or with added shrimp fat.
Harmonique 
Thai Map 6 F3
Soi Wat Muang Khae, Charoen Krung
Rd, 10100
Tel 0-2237-8175
Great atmosphere with a quiet
off-street garden and ramshackle
decor inside. Good Thai food
prepared to Western tastes.
Nice pastries as well.
Hua Seng Hong 
Chinese Map 6 E2
371–373 Yaowarat Rd,10100
Tel 0-2222-0635
Classic Hong Kong-style Chinese
restaurant with an extensive
menu. Try the duck, clay pot
prawns, or choose from a
wide selection of dim sum.
Efficient service.
Seven Spoons 
Mediterranean Map 2 F4
22–24 Chakkrapatiphong Rd, 10100
Tel 0-2629-9214 Closed Mon
A unique spot in Bangkok,
serving up good cocktails and
inventive Mediterranean cuisine.
Lots of vegetarian specialties –
Price Guide
Prices are based on an evening meal for
one, including service, but not alcohol.
 up to 300 baht
 300 to 800 baht
 over 800 baht
try the quinoa salad with
mango, avocado, and mushroom.
Book ahead.
T & K Seafood 
Seafood Map 6 F2
49–51 Soi Phadung Dao, 10100
 Tel 0-2223-4519
Choose from the wide selection
of fresh seafood displayed on ice
in front of this raucously busy
place. Gets particularly crowded
in the late evening. The whole-
steamed fish is great, as is the crab
curry. All items sold by weight.
Dusit
Krua Apsorn 
Thai Map 2 E1
Tel 02-241-8528 Closed Sun
Authentic and tasty Thai dishes
served in a basic but clean
setting. This is the first and the
best of three branches in the city.
Try the mussels fried phad cha-
style, with basil, yellow chili, wild
ginger, and green peppercorn, or
one of the Southern Thai curries.
May Kaidee 
Vegetarian Map 2 D3
33 Samsen Rd opposite Soi 2, 10200
Tel 0-2281-7699
An institution for Bangkok’s
vegetarians, May Kaidee serves
mostly Thai dishes with some
Western choices thrown in.
Delicious spring rolls, green curry
The off-street garden at Harmonique

European à la carte dining at Biscotti
with tofu, and phad thai. Good
buffet. The chef offers cooking
classes, and has published a
cookbook of Thai vegetarian food.
Downtown
Hai Somtam  Tel 0 2126 8866
Issan Map 7 C4
2/4–5 Convent Rd, Silom, 10120
Tel 0-2631-0216
Great place for Northeastern
Thai food, known as aharn issan.
An unassuming, open-fronted
restaurant, packed at lunchtimes
and early evenings with locals
eating spicy som tam (green
papaya salad), grilled chicken,
sun-dried pork, sticky rice, and
other Issan favorites.
Lamyai  Silom, 10120
Thai Map 8 D2
Lang Suan Rd Soi 6, 10330
Closed evenings, Sat & Sun
Try khao soi, the famous Northern
Thai curried noodles at this
foodie’s favorite in Bangkok.
The wheat noodles with chicken
or pork and fragrant spices is a
must-try. Great for lunch.
Mrs. Balbir’s  Mexican
Indian
155/1–2 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1, 10110
Tel 0-2651-0498 Closed Tue
Unpretentious restaurant
serving good Northern Indian
favorites. The owner is a local
TV personality who gives
Indian cooking classes. Of the
several branches in the city,
this is the original restaurant
and it is still the best.
Suda
Thai
6-6/1 Sukumvit Soi 14, 10110
Tel 0-2229-4664
Suda is a favorite evening haunt
of expatriates in the Sukhumvit
area, thanks to its inexpensive
and delicious cuisine. Thai office
workers flock here for lunch too.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Popular choices include tuna
with chilies and cashews, and
green curry with rice.
Biscotti 
Italian Map 8 E1
Ratchadamri Rd, 10330
Located in the swish Four
Seasons Hotel, Biscotti is a
stylish but warm and friendly
Italian restaurant with an open
kitchen. The menu is not limited
to haute cuisine, and features
pasta and other comfort foods
as well. Top-quality service and
great value.
Bua 
Thai Map 7 C4
Siboonrueng Building, 1/4 Convent Rd,
Tel 0-2237-6640
For over 20 years, Bua has served
both locals and tourists an
extensive menu of delicious
dishes from four of Thailand’s
main culinary regions. Try the
pla neung mannao (steamed
sea bass in lime juice).
Coyote Bar & Grill 
Map 7 C4
Sukhumvit Soi 11, 10110
Tel 0-2651-3313
Coyote Bar & Grill is Bangkok’s
most popular Mexican eatery.
Tuck into quesadillas, burritos,
enchiladas, and racks of pork ribs,
and choose from more than 75
different types of margaritas.
Bright, lively ambience.
Le Dalat Indochine 
French/Vietmanese
 14 Soi 23, Sukhumvit Rd,
10110
Tel 0-2259-9593
Run by a French-Vietnamese
family, this restaurant is
renowned for the culinary
blend of these two different
cultures, also reflected in the
decor. Try the angel hair
For more information on types of restaurants see pp412–13
 419
sautéed with crab meat and
shiitake mushrooms.
Eat Me 
International Map 7 C4
1/6 Soi Phipat 2, off Convent Rd,
Silom, 10120
Tel 0-2238-0931
The exposed beams give a loft-
style look to this place, which is
fitting as it is both a restaurant
and an art gallery. The excellent
fusion food nevertheless remains
the main attraction. Try the pan-
seared Alaskan sea scallops, or
the nduja (spicy sausage) tartine
with goat’s cheese and pine nuts.
Indus 
Indian
71 Soi 26, Sukumvit Rd, 10110
Tel 0-2258-4900
The light, simple dishes at Indus
place an emphasis on health
without sacrificing flavor.
The dining room decor draws
on northern India’s cultural
heritage, with stunning results.
A lovely bar and café add to
the ambience.
Thanying 
Thai Map 7 A5
10 Pramuan Rd, Silom, 10500
Tel 0-2236-4361
A Thai title for ladies of nobility,
the name of this restaurant
reflects the type of aristocratic
but traditional fare on offer.
In a lovely old house off Silom,
the ambience is good, but the
food is even better. Fantastic
attention to detail.
Uncle John 
French/Thai Map 8 D5
279/2 Suan Phlu Soi 8, 10120
Tel 08-1373-3865
Soi Suan Phlu, near Sathorn Rd,
is full of excellent street food
and bars. Uncle John serves
quality home-style French
dishes at prices far below
those paid in fancier places.
420  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Le Beaulieu 
French Map 8 F2
Athenee Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd,
10330
Tel 0-2168-8220
This long-standing local favorite
serves authentic French cuisine
in an elegant setting. Try the
premium Fines de Claire oysters,
simple bouillabaisse, roasted
Bresse chicken, home-made
pâtés, or côte de boeuf
(rib-eye steak).
Bo.lan 
Thai
24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 10110
Tel 0-2260-2962 Closed Wed
A true taste of Thailand, this place
refuses to soften traditional Thai
flavors to Western tastes. All the
food here is made with fresh,
locally sourced ingredients. Opt
for the tasting menu, which
changes every two months.
Sleek, wood-themed decor.
The China House 
Chinese Map 6 F4
Mandarin Oriental Hotel,
48 Oriental Ave, 10500
Tel 0-2659-9000
In a beautifully restored house
in the Art Deco style of 1930s
Shanghai, this restaurant dishes
up classic Cantonese cuisine with
a contemporary twist. Try the
delicious home-made tofu and
oven-roasted Peking duck.
Issaya Siamese Club 
Thai Map 8 F5
4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Rd,
Sathorn, 10120
Tel 0-2672-9040-1
On offer here is delicious Thai
food with a contemporary twist.
Try the moo manao (thinly sliced
pork topped with lime and
edible flowers), glazed pork ribs,
and pla ob prik (baked fish with a
chili glaze). The setting is a 1920s
mansion complete with bright,
quirky furnishings.
The elegant dining room at Le Normandie
Key to Price Guide see page 418
Koi 
Japanese
26 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 10110
Tel 0-2258-1590
This trendy Japanese restaurant
is a stunning addition to the
city’s increasingly eclectic dining
scene. One of the most talked
about restaurants in Bangkok, it
has attracted a host of famous
celebrities and models. All come
for delicious sushi and sashimi
presented with flair.
Naj 
Thai Map 7 C4
42 Convent Rd, Silom 10120
Tel 0-2632-2811
First-rate Thai food served in an
elegant three-story Colonial-style
house. Try the coconut-milk soup
with chicken and galangal, wing-
bean salad with minced pork and
shrimps, or a sizzling seafood hot
plate. Exceptional service.
Le Normandie 
French Map 6 F4
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental
Ave, 10500
Tel 0-2659-9000
Said to be Asia’s finest French
restaurant, Le Normandie offers
a charming river-view setting,
impeccable service, and an
exceptional wine list. Choose
from a wide selection of superb
dishes on the à la carte menu.
Highlights include breast of
Bresse pigeon with foie gras.
Vertigo Grill and Moon Bar 
International Map 8 D4
21/100 South Sathorn Rd, 10120
Tel 0-2679-1200
A fabulous open-air restaurant
on the 61st floor of the Banyan
Tree Hotel. Breathtaking views,
fantastic cocktails, and great
barbecue food. Specialties
include red mullet en papillote
with thyme, and grilled scallops
with coriander butter. Go at
sunset for the very best views.
Thon Buri
DK Choice
Supatra River House 
Thai Map 1 B4
266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun
Amarin Rd, 10700
Tel 0-2411-0305
∑ supatrariverhouse.com
With superb views of the
Grand Palace and Wat Arun,
this riverside venue offers an
evening to remember. Excellent
Thai food and wonderful dance
performances. Guests are picked
up by boat from Maharaj Pier in
the Old City.
Prime 
Steak house Map 6 F3
Millenium Hilton, 123
Charoennakorn Rd, 10600
Tel 0-2442-2000
Considered one of the city’s
best steak houses, Prime offers
top-quality imported beef, as
well as seafood and side dishes.
Relaxing contemporary
atmosphere, with great views
of the river.
Trader Vic’s 
Asian
Anantara Riverside Resort & Spa,
257 Charoennakorn Rd, 10700
Tel 0-2476-0022 Closed Mon
Promises a unique experience,
with Polynesian decor, fine food
from across Asia, and delicious
cocktails on the riverside deck.
Try the spectacular Sunday
Mai Tai jazz brunch, a fabulous
spread of international
gourmet cuisine.
Farther Afield
Cedar 
Lebanese
Sukumvit Rd, Soi 49/9,10110
Tel 0-2119-7206
Popular with Bangkok’s expat
community, Cedar is known for
its delicious Middle Eastern fare.
Choose from over 30 types of the
famous meze appetizers, as well
as hearty main courses and great
desserts. Knowledgeable and
friendly service.
Taling Pling 
Thai
25 Sukhumvit Soi 34, 10110
Tel 0-2258-5308-9
In a converted family home
with a bright contemporary
design. Serves tasty Thai food at
reasonable prices. Since many
of the dishes are unusual, the
picture menu, with clear
descriptions, is useful.

Tasty morsels on offer at Tony’s Place
South Central Plains
AYUTTHAYA: Bann Kun Pra  Tel 0-3525-2578
Thai
48 U Thong Rd, 13000
Tel 0-3524-1978
One of Ayutthaya’s most popular
guesthouses also has a riverside
restaurant that serves good Thai
food, the specialty being seafood.
AYUTTHAYA: Chainam  House
Thai/Western
36/2 U Thong Rd, 13000
Tel 0-3525-2013
Occupying an attractive spot on
the west bank of the Pasak River,
this family-run restaurant serves
both Thai and Western dishes,
including a wide range
of breakfast options.
AYUTTHAYA: Malakor  a fantastic selection of Thai,
Thai/Western
Chikun Rd, 13000
Tel 0-8171-2577-9
Simple restaurant right next to
Wat Ratchaburana, serving tasty
Thai food and a few Western
dishes like burgers. Good choice
for an evening meal, with great
views of the illuminated ruins.
AYUTTHAYA: Pae Krung Kao 
Thai/Chinese
4 Moo 2, U Thong Rd, 13000
Tel 0-3524-1555
This floating restaurant is popular
with tourists for its authentic Thai
and Chinese dishes. Try catfish
salad and the specialty – river
prawns. Lovely terrace with views
of the Pa Sak river.
AYUTTHAYA: Street Lamp  Thai
Thai/Western
Naresuan Rd Soi 2, 13000
Tel 09-2902-9100
With live music most evenings,
this place is better known as a
popular nightlife venue, but it
does serve delicious Thai and
international dishes. Pleasant
outdoor seating.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
AYUTTHAYA: Tony’s Place  cuisine. Dine on the stunning
Thai/Western
Naresuan Soi 2, 13000
Part of a popular guesthouse, this
place serves a basic but reliable
range of Thai and Western classic
dishes. The bar becomes very
busy later in the evening, with
live music most nights.
AYUTTHAYA: California Steak

Western
Kantary Hotel, 168 Moo 1, Rojana
Rd, 13000
Tel 0-3533-7177
Great choice for those longing
to enjoy a good steak in a relaxing
environment. Only imported
meats are used. Several seafood
options are also available.
DK Choice
KANCHANABURI: Blue Rice
Restaurant by Apple & Noi 
Thai
153/4 Moo 4, Thamakham, 71000
Tel 0-3451-2017
This is a very popular restaurant
with an attached guesthouse.
The signature dish is massaman
curry, made with coconut
milk and cashews. Extensive
menu with excellent set
dinner options. The chefs also
offer cookery classes for around
1500 baht a day. Be prepared to
wait a while as all dishes are
made to order.
KANCHANABURI:
Nita’s Raft House  Tel 0-5553-2483
271/1 Pak Praek Rd, 71000
Tel 0-3451-4521
Relax on the bamboo deck
and enjoy outstanding home-
style cooking. Try the fiery
tom yam kung or Japanese
okonomiyaki (rich savoury
pancakes). Friendly, English-
speaking staff.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp412–13
 421
KANCHANABURI: Schluck 
Thai/Western
20/1 Mae Nam Kwae Rd, 71000
Tel 0-3462-4599
A fantastic place for those
craving Western comfort foods
such as pasta or steak, though
they also have an extensive
menu of Thai dishes and
delicious desserts.
KANCHANABURI: Peppers 
Thai/Western
443 Mae Nam Kwae Rd, 71000
Tel 0-3452-1584
Located in the luxury U Inchantree
Resort, this restaurant offers a
modern take on traditional Thai
riverside terrace or in the cool,
air-conditioned interior.
LOP BURI: Maad Mee 
Thai
8/18 Phra Sri Mahosote Rd,
Talay Choob Sorn, 15000
Tel 0-3641-2883
Offering great food, this simple
place is popular with locals and
visitors. Try the gaeng khua with
pandan-leaf-wrapped meatballs.
North Central Plains
MAE SOT: Bai Fern 
Thai/Western
660/2 Intharakiri Rd, 63110
Tel 0-5553-3343
Double-fronted restaurant with
Burmese, Mexican, and Italian
dishes. Uses local ingredients like
mushrooms and ferns.
MAE SOT: Krua Canadian 
Thai/Western
3 Sri Phanit Rd, 63110
Tel 0-5553-4659
Simple but well-run café, popular
among local workers for its
generous breakfasts and
good coffee.
DK Choice
MAE SOT: Khaomao-
Khaofang Restaurant 
Thai
382 Moo 9, Mae Sot–Mae
Ramat Rd, 63110
∑ khaomaokhaofang.com
Delightful restaurant designed
and owned by a botanist.
Waterfalls, palms, and ferns
combine to create a magical,
romantic atmosphere. The food
is also top-notch, with authentic
Thai dishes and delicious
desserts. Super-attentive staff.
422  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
An array of options at Kalare Night Bazaar
PHITSANULOK: Ban Mai
Thai
93/30 U Thong Rd, 65000
Tel 0-5525-8548
Tucked away in Phitsanulok’s
backstreets, this place offers a
short menu of very good Thai
dishes. Do not miss the yam takrai
(lemongrass salad). A pleasant
setting with smartly laid tables.
PHITSANULOK: Amore 
Italian/Thai
Yodia Heritage Hotel, 89/1
Puttabucha Rd, 65000
Tel 0-5521-4677
Romantic setting for a tasty
Italian meal, though there are
also a few token Thai dishes on
offer. Sleek decor inside, and a
nice outdoor seating area.
SUKHOTHAI: Dharma Cafe
Thai/French
83 Jarodvithi Thong Rd, 64000
Tel 09-5686-4354
This pleasant bistro is great for
an evening out. The European
owner and his Thai family offer
home-cooked Thai food and a
variety of Western dishes, mainly
French but often other specials.
SUKHOTHAI:
May Klang Kroong  TAK: Rimping Terrace
Thai
139 Charodvithitong Rd, 64000
Tel 0-5562-1882
Possibly the best place to sample
Sukhothai noodles, a dish made of
sweet rice noodles, pork rind,
peanuts, and chicken. There is no
English signage, so look out for
the old bicycle parked in front.
SUKHOTHAI: Pai Sukhothai
Cafe
Thai/Western
3 Prawet Nakhon, 64000
Tel 0-0898-8848
A stylish spot that serves much
more than coffee. Choose from
Thai mains, pasta dishes, salads,
and sandwiches. Comfortable
seating and a relaxed atmosphere.
Key to Price Guide see page 418
 SUKHOTHAI: Poo
Thai/Western
24/3 Charodvithitong Rd, 64000
Tel 09-3197-4070
This classic travelers’ café, on the
main road in the new town, is
well-regarded for its range of
delicious Thai and international
food, along with expensive
Belgian beer.
SUKHOTHAI: Dream Café 
Thai
88/1 Singhawat Rd, 64000
Tel 0-5561-2081
The clutter of period furniture
and old-world ornaments may
make Dream Café look more
like an antique shop than a
restaurant, but the food and
service are excellent.
 SUKHOTHAI: Ruean Thai
Restaurant & Bar 
Thai
181/20 Soi Pracharummit, 64000
Tel 0-5561-2444
In the hotel of the same name,
near the town center, this place
offers excellent Thai standards, as
well as imaginative Thai/Western
fusion dishes. Indoor and outdoor
dining. Nice Thai-style desserts.
 Thai
Thai/Western
Viang Tak Riverside Hotel,
236 Chompol Rd, 63000
Tel 0-5551-2507
Tuck into spicy Thai dishes or
Western food while being
serenaded by singers and
enjoying good riverside views.
Friendly and efficient service.
UMPHANG: Phu Doi  Faham Khao Soi
 Thai
294 Moo 1 Prawet Wan Rd, 63170
Tel 0-5556-1049
There are limited dining options
in tiny Umphang, but this place
turns out decent Thai food such
as the spicy tom yam kung and
delicious curries. There are also a
good range of refreshing beers.
Northwest Heartland
CHIANG MAI: Art Café 
Thai/Western
291 Tha Pae Rd, 50100
Tel 0-5320-6365
Occupying a prime spot opposite
Tha Phae Gate, this is a good
place for people-watching
through the large plate-glass
windows. The wide-ranging and
eclectic menu offers Thai, Italian,
and Mexican dishes.
CHIANG MAI: Dada Kafe 
Thai/Western
20/1 Ratchamanka Rd, 50200
 Tel 0-5344-9718
Dada Kafe is a great option for
health-conscious diners, with a
range of nutritious salads. Great
central spot for breakfast, with a
wide selection of international
newspapers and magazines.
CHIANG MAI: Hin Lay 
Indian
8/1 Nawatket Rd, 50000
Tel 0-5324-2621
Serves superb and flavorful
Indian curries, ranging from
explosive vindaloo to mild korma.
Pleasant garden setting. It is a
bit tricky to find, but worth
the effort.
CHIANG MAI: Huen Phen 
Thai
112 Ratchamanka Rd, 50200
Tel 0-5327-7103
Huen Phen is known for its
excellent lunchtime khao soi
(noodles in curry broth) and
other tasty Northern Thai
dishes. Lunch is served in a
simple dining space out front,
while dinner is in the antique-
laden house next door.
CHIANG MAI: Kalare Night
Bazaar Food Court 
Chang Klan Rd, 50100
Opposite the main Night Bazaar
building behind the streetside
shops, this bustling food court is
a great pit stop for refreshments
after shopping. Diners can enjoy
the nightly traditional dance
performance as they eat.
CHIANG MAI: New Lamduan

Regional
352/22 Charoenrat Rd, 50000
Tel 0-5324-3519
One of the best places to sample
Chiang Mai’s famous lunchtime
dish, khao soi. They also have a
wide variety of Northern Thai
curries and excellent satay.
Closes promptly at 4pm.

CHIANG MAI: Ratana’s Kitchen 
Thai/Western
320-322 Tha Pae Rd, 50300
Tel 0-5387-4173
This cozy café offers a huge
menu of Thai and Western
favorites at cheap prices. Located
on the city’s main street, it is
perfect for people-watching,
especially from the outdoor
terrace upstairs.
CHIANG MAI: Chez Marco 
Mediterranean
15/7 Loy Kroh Rd, 50100
Tel 0-5320-7032 Closed Sun
A warm, friendly place serving
excellent Italian and French food.
Try rainbow trout with almond
butter sauce and duck steak
with apple sauce. There is also
a kids’ menu. Open evenings only.
CHIANG MAI: Dash Teak
House 
Thai/Western
38/2 Moonmuang Rd, 50200
Tel 0-5327-9230
Delicious Thai and Western
dishes served in an attractive
two-story teakwood house. Ask
for a table outdoors, either on the
terrace or in the garden. Try the
sea bass steamed with lime or
stir-fried eggplant in chili sauce.
CHIANG MAI: Ginger & Kafe 
Thai/Western
199 Moonmuang Rd, 50200
Tel 0-5341-9011
A stylish restaurant adjoining a
quirky gift shop. Choose from a
short but excellent menu of Thai
and Western dishes, such as soft-
shell crab with black pepper and
lamb kebabs with roasted pepper.
CHIANG MAI: Pulcinella
da Stefano
Italian
2/1–2 Chang Moi Kao Rd, 50300
Tel 0-5387-4189
This is a popular place right
near Tha Phae Gate offering
The 1930s-inspired decor at Chinese restaurant Fujian, renowned for its dim sum
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
northern Italian dishes in a
relaxed environment. Generous
portions, daily specials, great
service, and an extensive wine
list. Book ahead.
CHIANG MAI: Rachamankha 
Thai/Fusion
6 Rachamankha Soi 9, 50200
Tel 0-5390-4111
This is one of the city’s classiest
restaurants, located in the elegant
Rachamankha Hotel. Dine in the
lovely courtyard and choose from
a range of superb Thai, Shan, and
Burmese dishes.
CHIANG MAI: Riverside 
Thai/Western
9–11 Charoenrat Rd, 50000
Tel 0-5324-3239
Something of a Chiang Mai
institution, Riverside is a one-
stop eating, drinking, and enter-
tainment venue. For those willing
to splurge, reserve a spot on the
dinner cruise.
DK Choice
CHIANG MAI:
Ruen Tamarind 
Thai/Western
Tamarind Village, 50/1
Ratchadamnoen Rd, 50200
Tel 0-5341-8896
This elegant restaurant is part
of the Tamarind Village hotel
and looks out onto the
swimming pool. Though there
are a few Western dishes on the
menu, it is the exquisitely
prepared Thai options that are
the draw here: try the tamarind-
glazed pork spare ribs or the
spiced mushroom tempura.
 CHIANG MAI: Whole Earth 
Thai/Indian
88 Sridonchai Rd, 50100
Tel 0-5328-2463
With tables inside an elegant
dining room and on the terrace
For more information on types of restaurants see pp412–13
 423
of an attractive traditional
house, this is a good choice
for a dinner after shopping in
the nearby Night Bazaar. The
menu also has several
vegetarian options.
CHIANG MAI: Fujian 
Chinese
Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi
Resort, 51/4 Moo 1, Chiang Mai–
Sankamphaeng Rd, 50000
Tel 0-5388-8888
Atmospheric 1930s-style
Chinese restaurant famed
for its dim sum lunches.
The evening menu is classic
Chinese with a degustation
option, complemented by
an excellent wine list.
CHIANG MAI:
Latest Recipe 
International
108 Chang Klan Rd, 50100
Tel 0-5325-3666
Part of Le Meridien hotel, this
buffet serves everything from
green curry to steaks. Food is
beautifully presented and chefs
are always on hand to advise.
Chic modern decor.
CHIANG MAI: Le Coq d’Or 
French
11 Koh Klang Rd, Nong Hoi, 50000
Tel 0-5314-1555
Formal French restaurant housed
in a Colonial-style building.
The menu includes foie gras,
caviar, and lobster, and a
comprehensive wine list. Live
classical music some evenings.
CHIANG MAI: Moxie 
Thai/Western
Dusit D2 Hotel, 100 Changklan Rd,
50100
Tel 0-5399-9999
This chic hotel restaurant offers
a range of Thai and Western
dishes. Try the spaghetti with
Chiang Mai sausage, followed
by crème brûlée.
424  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
CHIANG MAI: Ping Nakara 
Thai/International
135/9 Charoenprathet Rd, 50100
Tel 0-5325-2999
A hotel restaurant serving Thai
cuisine as well as a delightful
afternoon tea of sandwiches
and Thai desserts. Guests at the
hotel can book a special chef’s
tasting menu.
DK Choice
CHIANG MAI:
Sala Mae Rim 
Thai
Four Seasons Resort, Mae Rim–
Samoeng Old Rd, 50180
Tel 0-5329-8181
Although on the outskirts of
town, Sala Mae Rim is worth
traveling to for sublime Thai
cuisine in an idyllic setting, with
spectacular views of rice paddy
fields. Try the gaeng pah (Thai
jungle curry) and poo nim
kapraow grob (crispy soft-shell
crab with holy basil). Very good
service and wine list.
CHIANG MAI: Tengoku De
Cuisine 
Japanese
Tambon Tha Sala, 50000
Tel 0-5385-1133
Across the street from the Dhara
Dhevi Hotel, Tengoku serves the
best Japanese in Chiang Mai,
including sashimi and sushi.
Choose from the à la carte or great-
value buffet menu.
LAMPANG: Aroy One Baht
Thai
Tipchang Rd, 52000
Tel 08-9700-9444
This bustling place is always
packed with locals and serves
authentic Thai cuisine. The food
is delicious and excellent value.
LAMPANG: Riverside
Thai/International
328 Tipchang Rd, 52000
Tel 0-5422-1861
Long-standing eatery on the
banks of the Wang River, with
live bands entertaining in the
evening. Excellent tom yam
khung and wood-fired pizzas.
LAMPANG: Wienglakor Hotel 
Thai/International
138/35 Phaholyothin Rd, 52000
Tel 0-5431-6430-5
The restaurant at Wienglakor
Hotel is one of the best in
Lampang. The relaxing
ambience, serene decor,
reliable food quality, and polite
service make for a delightful
dining experience.
Key to Price Guide see page 418
LAMPHUN: Lamphun Ice
Thai/Western
6 Chaimongkol Rd, 51000
Tel 0-5351-1452
Decked out like a 1950s American
diner, this is a great place to relax
after visiting Wat Haripunchai,
Lamphun’s main attraction.
The varied menu includes curries,
ice creams, and hot dogs.
MAE HONG SON: Kai Mook 
Thai/Chinese
23 Udom Chao Nithet Rd, 58000
Tel 0-5361-2092
Centrally located restaurant
serving a huge range of dishes,
including local specialties like
wild boar with red curry. There
are also daily specials.
MAE HONG SON:
Salween River  tables, and washes dishes. Things
Thai/Western/Burmese
23 Pradit Jongkham, 58000
Tel 0-5361-3421
This welcoming spot beside
Jongkham Lake serves excellent
Western breakfasts along with
Thai and Shan dishes. Some great
healthy options too; try the
delicious green-tea salad.
MAE HONG SON:
Golden Teak 
Thai/Western/Chinese
Imperial Hotel, 149 Moo 8,
Pang Moo, 58000
Tel 0-5368-4444-9
A short ride away from the
town center, Golden Teak is
worth the trip for its delectable
Thai, Chinese, and Western
 dishes. Lovely views from the
outside terrace.
MAE SARIANG: Inthira
Thai
Wiang Mai Rd, 58110
Tel 0-5368-1529
This no-frills place, very popular
with locals on Mae Sariang’s main
 road, serves authentic Thai soups,
stir-fries, and curries. Try the
Salween river fish.
PAI: Baan Benjarong 
Thai
Rangsiyanon Rd, 58130
Tel 0-5369-8010
There may nothing fancy about
the decor here, but the big
attraction is the well-prepared
Thai food. Go for the fiery tom
yam kung or banana flower salad.
PAI: Boomelicious 
Western
Soi 1 Corner Plaza, 58130
Tel 08-6329-3014
This hip café is typical of
eateries in trendy Pai, and is a
great place to linger over a lazy
 brunch. Choose from all-day
breakfasts, burgers, soups,
and salads.
PAI: Burger House 
American
Rangsiyanon Rd, 58130
Tel 0-5369-9093 Closed Mon
A wide range of juicy burgers
made using prime imported
meats. Try the Mexican burger
with chili and salsa, or the bacon
cheeseburger. There are also
baguettes and other main dishes
on the menu.
PAI: Na’s Kitchen 
Thai
Ratchadamrong Rd, 58130
Tel 08-1387-0234
The owner Na does everything
here – takes orders, cooks, clears
might take a while, but the
delicious food is worth the wait.
Far North
CHIANG KHONG: Fai Nguen 
Thai/Western
Nam Khong Riverside Hotel,
Sai Klang Rd, 57140
Tel 0-5379-1796
Perhaps the best of the many
resort restaurants in Chiang
Khong. The extensive menu
covers Thai and international
favourites. Karaoke starts every
night at 8pm.
CHIANG RAI: Baan Chivit Mai
Bakery 
Thai/Western
172 Thanon Prasop Sook, 57000
 Tel 0-5371-2357
This Scandinavian-run bakery is
located right by the bus station
and sells a delicious range of
cakes and pastries. All profits go
to support local disadvantaged
young people and social projects.
Alfresco dining at Sala Mae Rim

CHIANG RAI:
Cabbages & Condoms 
Thai
620/25 Thanalai Rd, 57000
Tel 0-5371-9167
Run by the Population &
Community Development
Association (PDA), this place serves
yummy Thai food, including
some local specialties. Profits go
to promote safe sex and other
social development programs.
CHIANG RAI: Night Market 
Thai/International
Phaholyothin Rd, 57000
The Night Market is Chiang Rai’s
biggest after-dark attraction, and
there are plenty of alfresco eating
options here. Shop for souvenirs,
then sit down for spicy soups,
noodles, sushi, or pizza.
CHIANG RAI: Phu Lae  many Yunnanese specialities
Thai
673/1 Thanalai Rd, 57000
Very popular among locals for its
Northern Thai dishes such as
gaeng haeng lae (pork curry with
ginger) and sai oua (spicy sausage).
Packed on Saturdays when the
Walking Street Market is outside.
DK Choice
CHIANG RAI: Salungkham 
Thai
834/3 Phaholyothin Rd, 57000
Tel 0-5371-7192
This excellent place may be a
bit tricky to spot on the busy
main road as there is no English
signage. Located opposite the
PT petrol station, it boasts
wonderful Thai cuisine, including
heart of palm curry with spare
ribs and banana flower salad
with prawns. Dine in the
restaurant’s relaxing interior or
in the pretty garden.
CHIANG RAI: Aye’s 
Thai/Western
869/170 Phaholyothin Rd, 57000
Tel 0-5375-2534
Stylish place with bamboo decor,
and generous portions of Thai
and international food. On the
downside, prices are steep and
service can be slow.
CHIANG RAI: Chinatown 
Chinese
Dusit Island Resort, 1129 Kraisorasit Rd,
57000
Tel 0-5360-7999
Indulge in some lunchtime dim
sum or an evening feast of
Cantonese dishes at this elegant
restaurant in Dusit Island
Resort. The perfect place for a
special occasion.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Riverside seating area at Nan Steak House
CHIANG RAI: Yunnan 
Yunnanese
211/5 Khwae Wai Rd, 57000
Tel 0-5371-3263
This place serves Thai staples
such as tom yam kung, but also
such as stewed pork leg with
preserved vegetables, and
Kunming-style fried milk.
CHIANG SAEN: Sriwan 
Thai
150 Moo 1, Tambon Wiang, 57150
Tel 0-5378-4025
One of the best restaurants in
Sop Ruak, a village just outside
Chiang Saen. Several set menus
to choose from and superb views
over three countries – Thailand,
Myanmar and Laos – from an
open-sided pavilion.
CHIANG SAEN: Baan Dahlia 
Italian/Mediterranean
Anantara Golden Triangle Resort,
229 Moo 1, 57150
Tel 0-5378-4084
Head here for a special treat at
the Golden Triangle. Enjoy the
view over the Mekong River
while sampling dishes such
as tiger prawns with pesto and
pine nuts, and sipping a glass
of wine.
MAE SAI: Kik Kok  Thai/Vegetarian
Thai
Phaholyothin Rd, 57130
No-frills eatery south of the
bridge serving a huge range of
traditional Thai dishes. There is a
helpful English picture menu to
choose from, and the dishes are
reliably tasty.
MAE SAI: Rabiang Kaew  NAN: Nan Steak House
Thai
356/1 Phaholyothin Rd, 57130
Tel 0-5373-1172
On an atmospheric terrace just
near the bridge to Myanmar, this
restaurant serves Thai dishes and a
few international ones. Antiques
in the dining room create a sense
of rustic charm. Closes early.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp412–13
 425
MAE SALONG: Khum Nai
Phol Resort 
Thai/Chinese
58 Moo 1, Doi Mae Salong, 57110
Tel 0-5376-5000-4
Located in a large, open-sided,
wooden building by the evening
market, this place serves an
extensive range of Thai and
Chinese dishes along with a
few local specialties.
MAE SALONG:
Mae Salong Villa 
Yunnanese
5 Moo 1, Maesalongnok, 57110
Tel 0-5376-5114-5
Specializes in dishes such as roast
pork with a spicy gravy and black
chicken with herb soup. As a
bonus, there are superb views
across the hilly landscape from
the terrace.
NAN: Poom Sam 
Thai/Chinese
Anantaworarichides Rd, 55000
Tel 0-5477-2100
This no-frills place may look like
nothing special, but it rustles
up some delicious, good value
dishes. Try the massaman
curry or the eggplant with
minced pork.
NAN: Tanaya Kitchen 
Anantaworarichides Rd, 55000
Tel 0-5471-0930 Closed Sun
Right next to Poom Sam, this
small restaurant is easy to miss,
but is worth hunting down for
its varied vegetarian menu. It’s a
popular place, so arrive early to
avoid a wait.

Western
15/7 Sumonthevaraj Rd, 55000
Tel 08-1982-8500
With a fantastic view of the
river, this is a great spot to
grab some Western food.
Steaks of all kinds, including
ostrich, as well as pizza
and sandwiches.
426  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
The elegant dining room at Pavilion Café
PHRAE: Gingerbread House
Gallery and Café  selection of Belgian and American
Thai
94/1 Chareon Muang Rd, 54000
Tel 0-5452-3671
A restaurant that is both homely
and welcoming. Tuck into tasty
noodles in broth, before browsing
the gift shop and gallery upstairs.
PHRAE: Night Market  international cuisine, including
Thai
Charoen Muang Rd, 54000
There are not many tourist-friendly
eateries in Phrae, so the best bet
for a meal is at the Night Market,
where you can find simple but
good noodles or rice dishes.
PHRAE: Pan Jai  40000
Thai
2 Weera Rd, 54000
Tel 0-5462-0727
On a quiet backstreet in the old
town, this is a pleasant restaurant
surrounded by a lush garden. The
specialty is khanom jeen – spicy
rice noodles.
Khorat Plateau
BURIRAM: Bamboo Bar &
Restaurant  Pullman Khon Kaen Raja Orchid
Thai/Western
14/13 Romburi Rd, 31000
Tel 0-4462-5577
A favorite among Buriram’s expat
community, this place serves
steaks, schnitzels, and pasta,
as well as Thai staples. As the
name suggests, the decor is
predominantly bamboo-themed.
KHON KAEN: Didine  Italian
Thai/International
19/21 Prachasamran Rd, 40000
Tel 08-0011-0180
Welcoming place serving some
excellent European food and
a good range of Thai dishes. Try
the chicken fillet with tarragon
Key to Price Guide see page 418
sauce or the mixed grill. A great
craft beers. Opens at 5pm.
KHON KAEN: Mama Big  Wars Café
Thai/Western/Fusion
140/456 Kanlapaphruek Rd, 40000
Tel 0-4324-5789
Smart place near the university
serving a wide choice of Thai and
several fusion dishes. Save room
for the mouthwatering desserts.
DK Choice
KHON KAEN: Bua Luang 
Thai/Chinese
Rop Bueng Kaen Nakhon Rd,
Tel 0-4322-2504
Perched on the north shore
of a scenic lake with a terrace
jutting out over the water, this
fancy restaurant is where locals
usually take guests for a first-
class meal. Seafood is the
specialty here, so go for a fish
dish with the one of the many
sauces on offer.
KHON KAEN: Pavilion Café 
Thai/International
Hotel, 9/9 Prachasamran Rd, 40000
Tel 0-4332-2155
Located in the lobby of the
Pullman Raja Orchid Hotel,
the Pavilion Café serves up a
scrumptious, if expensive, buffet
of Thai and Western dishes for
lunch and dinner.
KHON KAEN: Pomodoro 
348/16 Prachasamran Rd, 40000
Tel 0-4327-0464
Centrally located Italian eatery
serving pizzas, ravioli, and meat-
balls from 4pm. Fantastic desserts
include a top-notch tiramisu.
Helpful staff and great service.
KHORAT: Amphawa 
Thai/Western
264 Yommarat Rd, Nakhon
Ratchasima, 30000
Tel 0-4400-7488
This lively, casual place opens at
4pm. It has a nice garden area,
and bands play in the evening,
mainly Thai rock. Thai food is well
prepared and tasty, and there are
also standard Western favorites.
KHORAT: Seaw Seaw
Restaurant 
Chinese
77 Bua Rong Rd, Nakhon
Ratchasima, 30000
Tel 0-4424-3180
Family-run restaurant serving
up traditional Chinese food,
including Peking duck and fish
and crab dishes.
KHORAT: Veterans of Foreign

American
Pho Klang Rd, 30000
Tel 0-4425-3432 Closed Mon
This centrally located café next
to the Siri Hotel is a remnant of
the US air base that was here
during the Vietnam War. Western
breakfasts and burgers feature
on the menu.
KHORAT: Chez Andy 
European
5–7 Manat Rd, 30000
Tel 0-4428-9556
Probably Khorat’s classiest
restaurant, Chez Andy is run by
a Swiss chef, and offers imported
steaks and oysters along with
a handful of Thai dishes.
PHIMAI: Phimai Inn Hotel 
Thai/Western
33/1 Bypass Rd, 30110
Tel 0-4428-7228
Though a little away from the
town center, this is one of the
best place for refreshments
before or after a visit to the
Khmer ruins at Phimai.
ROI ET: White Elephant 
German/Thai
59/2 Robmuang Rd, 45000
Tel 0-4351-4778
Located beside the old moat
around Roi Et, this German-run
restaurant offers schnitzels,
sauerkraut, and sausages, plus
well-prepared Thai food. Imported
beers and a pool table.
SURIN: Mae Phim Pla Phao 
Thai
555 Tessaban Rd 1, 32000
Tel 08-1977-0096
Customers come to this
renowned, simple eatery for its
excellent barbecued fish, served

with dipping sauces and other
Central Thai favorites. Issan dishes
such as laab and somtam also
feature on the menu.
SURIN: Starbeam Restaurant 
Western
32/6 Soi Saboran 2, 32000
Tel 08-6877-4447
This clean place with its simple
decor offers a very wide variety
of Western cuisine, such as
burgers, Mexican food, and
pizzas. Good salads and
vegetarian dishes, too.
UDON THANI: Rabiang
Patchanee  character, though unfortunately
Thai/Issan
53 Suphakit Janya Rd, 41000
Tel 0-4224-4015
A serene oasis in a busy city, this
restaurant occupies an excellent
spot overlooking the Nong Prajak
Lake. Enjoy classic cuisine and
some less commonly found
Issan dishes.
Mekong River Valley
CHIANG KHAN:
Rabiang Kong  Chomkong
Thai
Chai Khong Rd, 42110
Located directly on the river,
Rabiang Kong offers a good
variety of affordable Thai dishes,
including fresh Mekong fish.
The venue is popular with locals
and visitors alike.
LOEI: Loei Danang  NONG KHAI: Daeng Namnuang 
Thai/Vietnamese
22/60 Chumsai Rd, 42000
Tel 0-4283-0413
This lively place serves both Thai
and Vietnamese dishes in a clean,
cool environment. There is a
helpful picture menu to choose
from and musicians sometimes
perform in the evenings.
LOEI: Night Market 
Thai
Chumsai Rd, 42000
As in many rural, non-tourist Thai
towns where restaurants don’t
have English menus, the best bet
for dinner is to stroll through
Loei’s Night Market and point at
something that appeals.
MUKDAHAN: Night Market 
Issan/Vietnamese
Song Nang Sathit Rd, 49000
This bustling evening market
offers classic Issan dishes such
as kai yang (grilled chicken)
and som tam, as well as
crunchy bugs and tasty
spring rolls.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
MUKDAHAN: The Waterfront 
Thai/Western
103/4 Samran Chai Khong Rd, 49000
Tel 0-4263-2577
Located about 1 km (0.5 mile)
south of the town center, Riverside
serves up well-prepared river fish
and other regional and Western
dishes. Breezy terrace with views
across to Laos.
MUKDAHAN: Wine Wild Why? 
Thai
11 Samran Chai Khong Rd, 49000
Tel 0-4263-3122
The unusual name of this riverside
restaurant reflects its distinctive
the choice of wines is limited.
Excellent Thai dishes served in an
atmospheric teakwood house.
NAKHON PHANOM: Satang 
Thai
766 Sunthorn Wichit Rd, 48000
Perhaps the best of the several
riverside restaurants in Nakhon
Phanom, despite there being no
English menu. Go for the hor mok
talay, a spicy seafood soufflé
steamed in a banana leaf.
NAKHON PHANOM:

Thai/Western/Chinese
527 Sunthorn Wichit Rd, 48000
Tel 0-4251-3564
Located at the Viewkong Hotel,
Chomkong serves Thai, Chinese,
and Western cuisine. Try a classic
Thai dish such as gaeng kiaw
waan, a sweet green curry.
Vietnamese
526 Rimkhong Rd, 43000
Tel 0-4246-0647
The big Vietnamese community
in Northeast Thailand is reflected
in the restaurants in the region.
This riverside spot is especially
popular among locals for its fresh
spring rolls.
The riverside garden at Mut Mee Guest House
For more information on types of restaurants see pp412–13
 427
NONG KHAI: DD Phochana 
Thai/Chinese
1155/9 Prajak Silipakorn Rd, 43000
Tel 0-4241-1548
The drab decor of this restaurant
belies the outstanding food on
offer. The extensive menu includes
excellent tort man pla (fish cakes).
NONG KHAI: Mut Mee Guest
House 
Thai/international
1111/4 Kaew Worawut Rd, 43000
Tel 0-4246-0717
Mut Mee Guest House serves
up a range of delicious Western
and Thai dishes, including fresh
apple pie. Dine in the shady
riverside garden or on their
boat, Nagarina.
THAT PHANOM: That Phanom
Phochana 
Thai/Issan
31 Phanom Phanarak Rd, 48110
Tel 0-4254-1189
This no-frills place turns out
consistently good Thai dishes
such as phad thai with
beansprouts and egg, as well
as some fiery Issan dishes.
UBON RATCHATHANI:
Krua Suanpla 
Thai/Fusion
50 Soi Chayangkul 12, Chayangkul
Rd, 34000
Tel 0-4531-5432
Good Thai, Chinese, and other
Asian flavors are to be had
here, delivered in attractive
surroundings. The restaurant is
frequented by locals, which is
always a good sign.
UBON RATCHATHANI:
Jumpa-Hom 
Thai
49/3 Phichitrungsan Rd, 34000
Tel 0-4526-0398
This sophisticated place would
not look out of place in Bangkok,
so is quite a surprise to find it in
428  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
such a remote town. Choose
from a great menu that includes
both common and not-so-
common Thai dishes.
DK Choice
UBON RATCHATHANI:
Prathueng Thong 
Thai/International
Tohsang City Hotel, 251
Phalochai Rd, 34000
Tel 0-4524-5531
Pratheung Thong might be
pricier than other restaurants in
the area, but is well worth it.
With subdued lighting, smartly
dressed and attentive wait
staff, a menu of tempting Thai
and international dishes, and
songstresses serenading you
long into the evening, this place
guarantees a meal to remember.
Eastern Seaboard
CHANTHABURI:
Chanthorn Pochana 
Thai
102/5–8 Benchamarachathutit Rd,
22000
Tel 0-3931-2339
Centrally located restaurant
with a tempting variety of curries,
spicy salads, and delicious stir-
fries on the extensive menu.
Try the local specialty sen mi
phad pu – a bowl of egg noodles
topped with crab meat.
CHANTHABURI: Tamajun 
Thai
Sukhaphiban Rd, Chantaboon
District, 22000
Acoustic guitar music enhances
the atmosphere while looking
over the river in old Chanthaburi.
Thai favorites feature on the
menu; try the pla krapong phat
prik thai dam (sea bass) with
peppercorns and vegetables.
KO CHANG: Chow Lay  KO SAMET: Naga
Seafood
Pier, Baan Bang Bao, 23170
Chow Lay is one of several
seafood restaurants located on
the pier in this picturesque
fishing village. Good food served
in a rustic yet sophisticated
atmosphere. Good range
of cocktails.
KO CHANG: Oodie’s Place  KO SAMET: Ao Prao Resort 
Thai/French
Hat Sai Khao, 23170
Tel 0-3955-1193
A lively place where the owner
and his band play classic rock
covers after 10pm most evenings.
Key to Price Guide see page 418
The terrace at Naga restaurant
Good choice of food and drinks,
both Thai and Western. Great
spot to relax and sing along.
KO CHANG: Invito Al Cibo 
Italian
Hat Sai Khao, 23170
Tel 08-5275-7915
Enjoy great views from this
restaurant’s hilltop perch above
Hat Sai Khao. The food is
excellent – from simple pizzas to
fine dining choices that cover all
the regional cuisines of Italy.
Nice breezy outdoor terrace.
KO CHANG: Paddy’s Palms 
Irish
Hat Sai Khao, 23170
Tel 0-3961-9085
Ko Chang’s original Irish pub,
Paddy’s pours out draught
Guinness and Kilkenny to go with
authentic Irish food such as beer-
marinated beef and shepherd’s
pie. They also do an excellent
Sunday roast. Lively atmosphere.
KO CHANG: Tonsai 
Thai/Western
Hat Klong Prao, 23170
Tel 08-9895-7229
Excellent Thai and Western food,
with many vegetarian choices.
Try the stir-fried fish with ginger.
Especially good for large groups.

Thai/Western
Ao Hin Khok, 21160
Tel 0-3864-4035
This restaurant is part of a
bungalow complex and serves
up simple but hearty fare using
baked goods from the in-house
bakery. Good choice of vegetarian
curries and Thai stir-fries.
International
Ao Prao, 21160
Tel 0-3864-4100
Chic and fancy by local
standards, Ao Prao’s restaurant
serves beautifully prepared
seafood and other Thai dishes
cooked to Western tastes.
Located on the west side of island.
KO SAMET: Ploy Talay 
Seafood
Hat Sai Kaew, 21160
Tel 0-3864-4212
Perhaps the best of the many
restaurants that set up in the
evening along Hat Sai Kaew.
Sit comfortably on cushions
surrounding a low, candle-lit
table and enjoy fresh seafood.
Prices fluctuate according to
supply, so check beforehand.
KO SAMET: Red Ginger 
Thai/Western
Samet Village, 21160
Tel 08-4383-4917
A great alternative to the
standard Thai curries and seafood
you find on all the beaches.
Imaginative international cuisine
in an intimate and quiet spot
close to the ferry landing.
KO SAMET: Tub Tim Resort 
Seafood
Ao Tub Tim, 21160
Tel 0-3864-4025
Tub Tim Resort’s restaurant
promises excellent seafood and
nice views of the beach. Try the
hor mok talae, a spicy soufflé with
seafood steamed in a banana leaf.
PATTAYA: Food Wave 
Thai
Royal Garden Plaza, Beach Rd, 20260
This food court offers a wide range
of cuisines, including Thai,
Vietnamese, Indian, Japanese,
Turkish, and Western. Good views
of the bay.
PATTAYA: Ali Baba 
Indian
1/13–14 Central Pattaya Rd, 20260
Tel 0-3836-1620
Good range of high-quality
North Indian cuisine, including
tandoori and curry dishes, with
several vegetarian options.

PATTAYA: Blue Olive 
Mediterranean
62/147 Moo 12 Theprasit Soi 8, 20150
Tel 0-3841-6285
Although located a little out of
town, it is worth making the trip
to blue Olive for the excellent
Italian, Spanish, and Greek cuisine,
and for the restaurant’s famous
steaks. A relaxed atmosphere,
away from the buzz of the city.
PATTAYA: Lobster Pot 
Seafood
228 Beach Rd, 20150
Tel 0-3842-6083
Perched on the fishing pier in
South Pattaya, Lobster Pot is just
a few steps from raucous Walking
Street, but the serene setting
makes it seem a world away. Try
the lobster or grilled tiger prawns.
DK Choice
PATTAYA: Mantra 
International
Amari Orchid Resort, Beach Rd,
20150
Tel 0-3842-9591
This restaurant embodies
Pattaya: excessive, outrageous,
and lots of fun. Seven open
kitchens prepare scrumptious
Japanese, Chinese, Indian, and
Western dishes. With two levels
of seating, including private
alcoves with names like The
Sultan’s Table or Opium Den,
this place is an event as much
as a restaurant. Entertainment
every night.
PATTAYA: The Grill House 
International
Rabbit Resort, Dongtan Beach,
Jomtien, 20150
Tel 0-3825-1730
A romantic restaurant in Jomtien,
the Grill House serves a wide
range of Thai and Western dishes,
The setting at Mantra, fitting in perfectly
with Pattaya’s outrageous spirit
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
from a massive buffet breakfast,
to steaks and seafood skewers
from the charcoal beach grill.
TRAT: Uncle Jong  This mainly outdoor restaurant
Thai
140 Soi Rak Muang, Wang Krajae
District, 23000
Tel 08-6317-7975
Great family-style Thai cooking is
served here in a laid-back and
comfortable atmosphere. Food is
cooked to order – tell them if you
don’t like it too spicy.
TRAT: Sang Fah Restaurant 
Thai/Chinese
157 Sukhumvit Rd, 23000
Tel 0-3951-1222
Locals flock here for the best Thai
and Chinese food in town. House
specialty is nam phik puu khai, a
dip made from crabs’ eggs, but
less obscure dishes are available.
Western Seaboard
CHA-AM: Harry’s Pizzeria
& Bar  serving good-value Thai food
Thai/Western
933/32 Buriram Rd, Ban Kwai, 76120
Tel 08-4318-6413
Run by an amiable Australian/
Thai couple, Harry’s specializes in
pizza and pasta dishes but also
offers excellent Thai food, using
herbs fresh from their garden.
CHA-AM: Raya Restaurant 
Thai/Western
264 Ruamjit Rd, 76120
Tel 0-3247-2641
This swanky place near the beach
has a wide variety on the menu.
The Thai food is good, albeit
somewhat Westernized. Excellent
desserts, which you can eat at
the tables on the beach.
CHA-AM: Siam Jasmine 
Thai
Gaolai Rd, 76120
Tel 0-3247-0609
Located in the hotel of the
same name, right on the beach
in Cha-am, the Siam Jasmine has
developed a following for its
excellent Thai offerings, especially
seafood. Very clean place, with
good service.
CHUMPHON: Papa Seafood 
Seafood
Rot Fai Rd, Tha Tapao, 86160
Tel 0-7750-4504
This indoor/outdoor seafood
emporium lets diners choose
from the tank and serves up
delectable, fresh meals. Good
service, attention to detail,
and a vibrant atmosphere.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp412–13
 429
HUA HIN: Chao Lay Seafood 
Seafood
15 Naresdamri Rd, 77110
Tel 0-3251-3436
on a wooden pier is a favorite
with tourists and local families.
Thai seafood specialties
made using the freshest
produce available. Very busy on
weekends; go early to secure
a table.
HUA HIN: Chatchai Market 
Seafood
Soi 72, b/w Phetkasem and Sa Song
Rds, 77110
Definitely “street food”, but of a
much higher standard than
some. Try the classic phad thai
with fresh shrimps, hoi thot
(fried oyster omelet), one of
the many noodle soups, or
hearty portions of fresh fish.
HUA HIN: I Rice 
Thai/International
Rod Fai Rd, Soi 68–70, 77110
Tel 0-89137-6009
No-frills homely restaurant
prepared to Western tastes,
although it can be made
more authentic by asking.
Good European mains and
cheap beer.
HUA HIN: Baan Itsara 
Thai
7 Napkehad Rd, 77110
Tel 0-3251-1673
A seaside spot north of Hua Hin,
this casual restaurant was once
the home of a Thai artist. The
menu consists of standard Thai
seafood dishes, but the food is
prepared with exceptional skill.
HUA HIN: Cool Breeze 
Spanish
62 Naresdamri Rd, 77110
Tel 0-3253-1062
Located in a Colonial-style
seafront house, this is a good
choice for a light meal. Excellent
selection of sandwiches, tapas,
dips, and salads, as well as
hearty mains. Be sure to
sample the paella.
HUA HIN: Let’s Sea 
Thai
83/155 Soi Talay 12, Khao Takiab,
77110
Tel 0-3253-6888
In a nice resort location south
of town, Let’s Sea serves
delicious seafood with lovely
views of the bay. The cuisine is
Thai with an international twist.
Try the fish cakes wrapped
in mini-croutons and
lobster carpaccio.
430  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
HUA HIN: Shiva 
Indian
Soi 88, 38/11 Khao Hin Lek Fai 2 Rd,
77110
Tel 0-3265-2546
A little hard to find (opposite the
Chom Dong Villa) but well worth
the effort, Shiva serves delicious
curries, from super-spicy vindaloo
to smooth palak paneer, each
with a distinctive flavor.
HUA HIN: Hagi 
Japanese
Sofitel Centara Grand Resort and
Villas, 1 Damnoernkasem Rd, 77110
Tel 0-3251-2021
Stylish restaurant serving both
contemporary and traditional
Japanese dishes, beautifully
executed and presented. The
16-seat tepanyaki kitchen turns
cooking into theater and makes
for a dramatic dining experience.
HUA HIN: Salathai 
Thai
Sofitel Centara Grand Resort and
Villas, 1 Damnoernkasem Rd, 77110
Tel 0-3251-2021
Located between Cha-am and
Hua Hin, Salathai has excellent
choices of Thai food prepared
with quality ingredients. Lovely
outdoor seating in a garden with
an adjacent pool. Service and
ambience worthy of the price.
Reservations recommended.
HUA HIN: White Lotus 
Chinese
Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa, 33
Naresdamri Rd, 77110
Tel 0-3253-8999
On the 17th floor of the
impressive Hilton Resort, White
Lotus enjoys stunning views
of the town and coastline.
The contemporary Chinese
menu focuses on Sichuan and
Cantonese styles, with a couple
of degustation menus. Great
dim sum lunch.
KO PHA NGAN: Om Ganesh  The Boudoir
Indian/Thai
Had Rin, 84280
Tel 0-7737-5123
Authentic Indian curries served
in a vibrant setting. Nice thali
platters and lassis. Meat
dishes and Thai food also
available. Favorite haunt of
tired backpackers.
KO PHA NGAN: Luna Lounge 
French/Thai
Thong Nai Pan Noi Beach, 84280
Tel 0-7744-5035
Considered by many to be the
best place to eat on the island,
Luna Lounge offers a wide choice
of Western and Thai food served
Key to Price Guide see page 418
in a comfortable and sophisticated
atmosphere. Try the lamb curry
or barbecued kingfish.
KO SAMUI: Islander  KO SAMUI: Le Napoleon
International
Chaweng Center, Bophut, 84140
Tel 0-7723-0836
This backpacker favorite in the
heart of Chaweng offers basic
international food in a lively
setting. Thai options also
available. With a kids’ menu,
pool tables, and a sports TV.
KO SAMUI: Phensiri Thai Bistro 
Thai
80/30 Chaweng Beach Rd, 84140
Tel 0-7795-2412
The atmosphere is pleasant here,
amid the bustle of Chaweng
Beach, with a nice little garden
for outdoor dining. Serves very
tasty and healthy Thai food,
with an emphasis on cleanliness.
Great desserts.
KO SAMUI: Will Wait  Good value for quality fare.
International
Main Rd, Lamai Beach, 84140
Tel 0-7742-4263
With Thai, Chinese, Western, and
even some Japanese on the
menu, this place has something
for everyone. Nothing innovative,
but the food is decent and well-
priced. Good home-made bread
and pastries. Contrary to the
name, their service is quick.
KO SAMUI: Barracuda @
The Wharf 
Mediterranean
62/9 Moo 1, Bophut, 84140
Tel 0-7743-0003
Barracuda’s German chef prepares
imaginative Mediterranean
cuisine with a nod to Thai flavors.
The understated decor belies
the excellent food and service.
Opt for the lamb or the
consistently good daily specials.
KO SAMUI:

French
14/21 Moo 1, Maenam, 84140
Tel 08-5783-1031
Located between Bophut and
Maenam, The Boudoir serves
fantastic French food. But what
keeps people coming back is the
romantic atmosphere. The French
couple running it are great hosts.
KO SAMUI: The Duke Pub &
Restaurant 
British
12 Moo 2 Chaweng Beach Rd,
84140
Tel 0-7730-0348
Comfort food and drink for home-
sick Brits. Great bangers and
mash, pies, and fish ’n’ chips await,
and live music in the evenings.
Rowdy at times, but friendly.

French
Lamai 4 Rd, Lamai Beach, 84140
Tel 08-5478-4571
Consistently well-rated for its
classic French food, Le Napoleon
features traditional decor
including white tablecloths. Of
the many French dishes on offer,
be sure to try the gratinated
mussels and tournedos flambé
in cognac. Excellent set menus.
KO SAMUI: Rocky’s Bistro 
Thai/Fusion
Rocky's Resort, Lamai Beach, 84140
Tel 0-7723-3020
This resort’s casual dining
venue gets excellent reviews
for its fusion cuisine, but its
international dishes are also
noteworthy. Modern Thai decor
with lovely poolside tables.
DK Choice
KO SAMUI: Dining on
the Rocks 
Asian
Six Senses Hideaway, Baan Plai
Laem Bophut, 84140
Tel 0-7724-5678
This sophisticated restaurant is
spread over 10 terraced decks –
some covered – perched on
boulders with incredible views.
Serves unique and delicious
interpretations of a range of
Asian dishes. The Thai staple
tom yam, for instance, is served
with a tangy foam, scallops, and
a crumbly cracker of parmesan
cheese. Impeccable service.
Promises a memorable meal.
The top deck at Dining on the Rocks

Cheerful outdoor dining area at Je t’aime
KO SAMUI: H Bistro 
French/Mediterranean
Hansar Resort, Bophut, 84140
Tel 0-7724-5511
Amid modern, almost urban
stone-and-wood decor, H Bistro
offers a menu that includes
traditional European, Thai, fusion,
and even vegetarian specialties.
Excellent service. One of the best
eateries on the island.
KO SAMUI: Tree Tops 
Thai/Western
Anantara Lawana Resort, North
Chaweng Beach, 84140
Tel 0-7796-0333
With individual pavilions built
into a rain forest, this restaurant
offers a lush and shady respite
from the beach. The menu
includes sophisticated
interpretations of Thai and
Western dishes. Friendly service.
KO SAMUI: Zazen 
French/Thai
Zazen Resort, Bophut Beach, 84140
Tel 0-7743-0345
Dine in a relaxed yet opulent
atmosphere right on the beach.
The chef prides himself on his
interpretations of French and
Thai classics. Try the popular
lobster set menu.
KO TAO: Porto Bello Bistro  up pizza, steaks, Thai food, and
Italian
Hat Sairee, 84000
Tel 0-7745-7029
Well-prepared Italian food
made using lots of local seafood.
Friendly atmosphere and good
service. Tasty home-made pastas
and mouthwatering desserts.
KO TAO: Starlight 
International
Charm Churee Resort, Jansom Bay,
84000
Tel 0-7745-6394
In a lovely resort south of the
busier beaches on the island.
Offers not only great sunset
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
views and a pleasant dining
atmosphere, but scrumptious
Thai and Western dishes,
including imported steaks.
PHETCHABURI:
Swiss Palazzo
Italian
37/4 Thumbol Tongchai, Khlong
Krachaeng, 77110
Tel 0-3240-0250
Limited but delicious menu –
everything is pasta-based in the
best Italian style, with excellent
and diverse sauces. Gnocchi is
a favorite here. They also make
their own superb ice cream.
PHETCHABURI:
Rabiang Rim Nam 
Thai
1 Shesrain Rd, 76000
Tel 0-3242-5707
Choose from a range of tasty and
good-value dishes served in this
guesthouse-based restaurant.
Centrally located with a nice
garden setting next to the river.
Popular with tourists.
PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN:
Twigg’s Bakery & Cafe 
Western/Thai
201/1–2 Salacheep Rd, 85000
Tel 0-3260-1188
A local institution, Twigg’s serves
superb pastries. Excellent for
breakfast and travel tips.
PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN:
Phloen Samut 
Thai
44 Beach Rd, 85000
Tel 0-3260-1866
Popular with both locals and
visitors to Prachuap, this
restaurant is a good place to try
the local specialty pla samli daet
diaw (flash-fried, sundried cotton
fish, served with a green mango
salad). The other Thai and
seafood dishes on the menu
are also excellent.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp412–13
 431
SURAT THANI: Mouth2Mouth
Cafe & Restaurant 
Thai/Western/Fusion
Soi Talat Mai 4, 84000
This hip but family-friendly place
has a bit of everything – from
ice cream to imported beers –
and the interesting menu has a
Western take on Thai classics.
Upper Andaman
Coast
PHANGNGA BAY: Je t’aime 
International
21/1 Moo 1 Market, Koh Yao Noi,
82160
Tel 0-7659-7495 Closed Fri
Je t’aime’s Danish owner-chef
prepares a wide variety of tasty
dishes including fresh fish,
excellent lobster, and baked
goods, all at reasonable prices.

PHANGNGA BAY: Duang 
Thai/Chinese
122 Phetkasem Rd, 82000
Tel 0-7641-2216
This restaurant serves both
Chinese and Southern Thai
cuisine, and is noted for its
seafood specialties. Try the tom
yam talay (spicy seafood soup)
or yam pla duk fu, a twice-cooked
catfish topped with freshly
shredded green mango.
PHANGNGA BAY:
Tasai Seafood 
Thai
Bor Saen District, 82000
Tel 08-9469-3392
A little out of town (near Bor Saen
Villa Resort), this restaurant is well
worth the journey to dine in a
mangrove forest. Popular with
locals for its tranquil ambience
and excellent Thai seafood.
PHANGNGA COAST:
Stempfer Café 
German
Phetkasem Rd, Baan La On,
Khao Lak, 82210
This is a long-standing local
favorite for its very filling
breakfasts. It is also well-known
for its cakes, pastries, sandwich
lunches, and beer.
PHANGNGA COAST: Enzo 
Japanese Fusion
62/2 Moo 5, Kukkhak, Khao Lak,
82190
Tel 0-7648-6671
Enzo is a stylish place
serving traditional and modern
Japanese food. The unlimited
buffet, with its varying prices,
is quite popular. The restaurant
has a lovely ambience.
432  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Cheerful decor at Ka Jok See
PHANGNGA COAST:
Everyday Lasy House
Restaurant & Bar 
Thai/Western
Phetkasem Rd, Khao Lak, 82210
Tel 08-1397-2802
An unpretentious restaurant
offering well-presented Central
Thai favorites and some Western
choices. Vegetarian and seafood
dishes are also offered.
PHUKET: Angus O’Tool’s  Thai
Irish
516/20 Patak Rd, Soi Islandia,
Karon, 83100
Tel 0-7639-8262
Known for one of the heartiest
breakfasts in all of Phuket, Angus
also has excellent nightly
specials, and a famous Sunday
roast. Guinness draught available.
PHUKET: China Inn Café  PHUKET: Red Onion
Thai/International
20 Thalang Rd, 83000
Tel 0-7635-6239
In a restored Sino-Portuguese
building, this café resembles a
tasteful but eclectic antique
shop. Mainly Thai dishes but
some Western choices as well.
Great for breakfast.
PHUKET: Flip Side  PHUKET: Somjit Noodles
Western
469 Viset Rd, Rawai, 83100
Tel 09-0869-5552
As far away from a burger chain
as you can get – think sun-dried
tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella,
Italian basil, rocket, burger
relish, and balsamic glaze. Nice
ambience and good craft beers.
PHUKET: Natural Restaurant 
International
66/5 Soi Phuthon, Bangkok Rd, 83000
Tel 0-7622-4287
This garden restaurant is full of
hidden nooks and crannies and
even little waterfalls. A relaxing
and amusing whimsical oasis.
Selection of world cuisines, from
Japanese to German and Thai.
Key to Price Guide see page 418
PHUKET: Pepper’s Sports Bar 
Western/Thai
16–18 Lagoon Rd, Cherng Talay,
83110
Phuket’s favorite sports bar shows
games on six high-definition
screens. Food is good, too: English
breakfasts, Sunday roasts, and a
few Thai dishes. Family friendly.
PHUKET: Red Duck
Restaurant  PHUKET: Linda Seafood
6/23 Moo 2, Patak Rd, Kata Beach,
83160
Tel 08-4850-2929 Closed Mon
Standard Thai fare prepared with
an attention to quality and
served in a no-frills, comfortable
dining space. Excellent curries
that can be tuned to different
tastes, from mild to super spicy.
 PHUKET: Paan Yah Thai
International
Patak Rd E, Karon, 83160
Tel 0-7639-6827
A bit basic in appearance, but
the standard Western food is
substantial and tasty. Try the
chicken steak with fries and the
Weiner schnitzel. Popular with
locals, so get there early.

Thai
214/6 Phuket Rd, 83000
Tel 0-7625-6701
A small, clean, unassuming
daytime noodle shop with an
excellent range of Hokkein and
Thai noodle dishes. Try the island’s
best-known noodle dish, khanom
chin nam ya Phuket (Chinese
noodles in a curried fish sauce).
PHUKET: Baluchi 
Indian
Horizon Beach Resort, Soi Kepsap,
Patong, 83100
Tel 0-7629-2526
Considered by many to be the
best Indian restaurant in Phuket,
Baluchi serves top-notch North
Indian specialties. The chefs are
from the subcontinent as are a
big section of the loyal clientele.
Good vegetarian choices.
PHUKET: Ka Jok See 
Thai
26 Takua Pa Rd, 83000
Tel 0-7621-7903 Closed Sun & Mon
Hidden down a small side
street in the center of town, Ka
Jok See is famous throughout
Thailand for its lively, sometimes
raucous, atmosphere. Thai dishes
prepared with flair, along with
live music, dancing, and a cabaret
show. Reserve ahead.
PHUKET: Kan Eang
Seafood II 
Seafood
9/3 Chofa Rd, Chalong Bay, 83110
Tel 0-7638-1323
A seafood institution for over
30 years, this lovely restaurant
with a garden started as a
streetside stand. Well-priced
meals. Play for area for kids on the
adjacent sandy beach.

Seafood
Ratutit Rd, near Soi Koknam, Patong,
83110
This humble place gets
consistently good reviews for
the freshness of its seafood,
legitimately priced without the
hidden extras that sometimes
spoil local seafood emporiums.
Clean and unpretentious.
Restaurant 
Thai
249 Prabaramee Rd, Patong, 83110
Tel 0-7629-0451
Excellent choice in Patong for its
reasonably priced fare and quality
views. Classic Thai seafood and
noodle dishes, carefully prepared
with fresh ingredients. Outdoor
deck with shaded seating.
PHUKET: Salvatore’s 
Italian
15 Rasada Rd, Phuket Town, 83000
Tel 0-7622-5958 Closed Mon;
Sun lunch
Typical trattoria-style place, with
the food done to perfection and
competently served in a tasteful
and laid-back atmosphere. There is
also a separate pizzeria next door.
PHUKET: Tatonka 
Fusion
Srisoonthon Rd, Bang Thao, 83110
Tel 0-7632-4349 Closed Wed
Offers “globetrotter cuisine”,
with influences from the many
countries the owner has lived
in. Many tasty, unique creations,
such as the sashimi spring rolls.

PHUKET: Baan Rim Pa 
Thai
Novotel Phuket Resort, 62
Prabaramee Rd, Patong, 83150
Tel 0-7634-0789
Royal Thai cuisine served in a
two-story teakwood villa on
a rocky point overlooking the
ocean. Lively piano bar. Classy
but casual ambience. Ask for a
table outside.
PHUKET: Black Ginger 
Thai
Indigo Pearl Resort, Nai Yang Beach,
83110
Tel 0-7632-7006
A traditional Thai pavilion built
on stilts over a lake, and reached
by boat. Aside from the stunning
surroundings, Black Ginger also
promises an elegant dining
experience with superb renditions
of Thai classics on offer.
DK Choice
PHUKET: The Blue
Elephant 
Thai
96 Krabi Rd, 83000
Tel 0-7635-4355
Housed in the former Phuket
governor’s mansion, a gem of
Sino-Portuguese architecture,
The Blue Elephant serves food
that is up to the setting. The
traditional Thai cuisine (often
spicy, but the menu gives a
“chili count”) is of the highest
standard. The southern Thai
massaman curry is unrivaled.
Set menus and à la carte, as
well as vegetarian choices.
There is even a cooking school.
PHUKET: The Boathouse
Wine & Grill 
French/Thai
West Patak Rd, Kata, 83100
Tel 0-7633-0015-7
Thai and Mediterranean food
on the menu, with modern,
innovative interpretations of
classic dishes. The beachside
setting is superb, the service
Chic dining area at Black Ginger
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
impeccable, and the wine list
unparalleled. Many special events
including cooking classes.
PHUKET: Lim’s 
Thai
28 Phra Baramee Soi 7, Kalim, 83100
Tel 0-7634-4834
Head to this effortlessly chic
restaurant located away from the
beach crowds on a hill above
Kalim Bay, just north of Patong.
Savor authentic and modern Thai
cuisine prepared with superb
attention to detail. Nice adjacent
lounge bar. Popular with locals.
PHUKET: La Gaetana 
Italian
352 Phuket Rd, Phuket Town, 83000
Tel 0-7625-0523
An intimate eatery known for its
Italian haute cuisine. Go for the
mixed carpaccio of salmon, tuna,
beef, and smoked duck breast
followed by baked portobello
mushrooms in Gorgonzola sauce.
PHUKET: Siam Supper Club 
International
Tinlay Place, Bang Tao, Cherng Talay,
83110
Tel 0-7627-0936
This restaurant offers a mainly
Western menu of seafood,
steaks, and pastas. An elegant
yet informal atmosphere and a
good spot for families. Popular
bar. Try the excellent cheesecake.
RANONG: Buono @ Ranong 
Italian
1/12 Chonraru Road, Khao Niwet,
85000
Tel 08-3632-9844
A great place for Italian comfort
food such as pasta and pizzas,
along with burgers and some
Thai fare. Rustic, with friendly staff.
RANONG: Ranong Hideaway 
Thai/Western
323/7 Ruangrat Rd, 85000
Tel 0-7783-2730
This is one of the primary
backpacker hangouts in Ranong,
and a good place to gather travel
For more information on types of restaurants see pp412–13
 433
tips. The menu includes a wide
choice of both Western and
Thai dishes, and the restaurant
is set in a pleasant garden.
Swift, efficient service.
Deep South
HAT YAI: Sumatra 
Indonesian
55/1 Ratthakan Rd, 90110
Tel 0-7424-6459
This modest eatery serves good
halal food. Try typical dishes such
as the mee goreng (fried yellow
noodles mixed with eggs and
shrimp), or rojak (a filling spicy
salad with a peanut sauce).
No alcohol.
HAT YAI: Basil 
Thai/Western
9, Soi 2 Punnakun Rd, 90110
Tel 0-8191-9321 Closed Mon
Surprisingly good Western
food in a place not usually
associated with international
cuisine. Good pizzas, grills, and
salads served up in a friendly
atmosphere. The tuna with
sesame sauce is a must-try.
Popular with students from
the nearby university.
HAT YAI: Kaopan 
Japanese
1/51 Tanon Jiranakorn, 90110
Tel 0-7423-3156 Closed Mon
A fantastic place to go for really
fresh sushi, as well as other
Japanese dishes. Locals and
expats prefer it to the chain
Japanese places for quality
and value.
SONGKHLA: The Hot
Bread Shop 
Western/Thai
61 Srisuda Rd, 90000
Tel 0-7432-1399
A good bakery that serves nice
pastries and coffees. The sand-
wiches here are considered the
best in town. Cooked Western
food and Thai dishes as well.
434  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
SHOPPING IN THAILAND
Thailand is well known as a country that
offers good shopping. The high quality, wide
variety, and low prices of many Thai goods
are a major attraction for tourists. Arts and
crafts are probably the most tempting buys.
These range from inexpensive wicker rice
steamers to valuable antiques, and include
many typically Thai items such as triangular
cushions, colorful hill-tribe artifacts, and
finely crafted silver jewelry. Many are
available from specialty crafts centers.
Thai silk has an international reputation
Asia Books – one of the best book chains
in Thailand
Opening Hours
Most small stores open from
about 8am to 8pm or 9pm, while
department stores, shopping
malls, and tourist shops typically
open from 10:30am until 9pm
or 10pm in busy areas. Business
days are normally Monday to
Saturday, but most shops in
Bangkok, tourist areas, and
resorts also open on Sundays
and public holidays. During the
Chinese and Thai new years (in
February and April) many shops
shut for several days. Market
hours are usually dawn to mid-
afternoon for fresh produce, or
late afternoon to midnight or
even later for tourist markets.
How to Pay
The Thai baht, linked to the
US dollar, has been a stable
currency since the mid-1980s.
Baht will always be accepted
throughout the country (and in
Laos). Credit cards can be used
in many stores in Bangkok and
resorts, and increasingly so in
provincial towns. VISA and
American Express are probably
the most widely accepted,
and comes in a huge variety of designs,
both traditional and modern. Tailors,
particularly in Bangkok, can make clothes
in silk or any other fabric to high standards
for low prices. The country is also known
for its rich supply of gems, and the capital is
a major gem trading center. With the
appearance of huge, luxurious shopping
malls in Bangkok alongside vibrant, chaotic
markets and street stands, Thailand offers
shoppers a mix of the contemporary and
the traditional.
followed by MasterCard. endless discount sales. However,
Upscale places usually take all the Thai love of bargaining means
major cards. Be warned, though, you can still often negotiate at
that many shops will add on a small shops, specialty retailers,
surcharge of up to five percent and, of course, market stands.
if you pay by credit card. There are a few tips for successful
bargaining. Be aware of the
going rate for items so as not to
Rights and Refunds offer embarrassingly low sums.
When buying expensive items, Talking in Thai numbers may
ask for a written receipt (bai set) restrain the vendor’s initial bid.
with the shop’s address and tax You can try faking disinterest if
number. For goods on which you the seller’s bids remain high.
want to reclaim the seven per- This is a better policy than
cent sales tax, shops should fill enthusiastically bargaining, then
out a form for you to present to deciding not to buy when the
customs at the airport. However, vendor agrees on your price.
the hassle and handling fees
involved mean that this is rarely
worth the trouble. Department Stores
If you are arranging to have and Malls
goods shipped home make International-style department
sure you confirm all the costs stores are a mainstay of Bangkok
involved with shopping. However, Thai market
the supplier in
advance, including
insurance, tax, and
shipping charges.
Refunds are almost
unheard of, but
exchange of faulty or
poorly fitting non-sale
goods from reputable
stores should be
possible, if sometimes
complicated. In
small shops you
may succeed
through charm.
Bargaining
The trend in cities,
especially Bangkok, is
toward chain stores
with fixed prices and Jewelry stall on Khao San Road, Bangkok

The huge Siam Paragon shopping complex in downtown Bangkok
habits die hard, and many
stores fill their aisles with
bargain stands.
The two main Thai chains
are Robinson’s, with a branch
on Sukhumvit road; and the
upscale Central at the Silom
Complex, farther down Silom
Road, Chidlom, and Lad Phrao.
The scale of the change in
Thai shopping habits is
remarkable. Residents of
Bangkok already have countless
downtown malls, such as
Peninsula Plaza, to choose
from, as well as luxury
shopping complexes like
Emporium, Central World
Plaza and Siam Paragon.
But the trend is for vast malls
out of the center of the city –
such as Fashion Island on
Ramindra Road. These are the
focus for growing suburbs and
resemble self-contained, air-
conditioned towns, selling not
only fashion and domestic
items, but even houses and cars.
They incorporate huge food
courts, water parks, movie
theaters, concert halls, skating
rinks, bowling alleys and
entertainment theme parks.
Two of the world’s five
biggest shopping malls are
in outer Bangkok. Seacon
Square on Srinakharin Road,
southeast of the city, contains
a fun fair and stretches for
more than 1,100 yds (1 km).
The rest of Thailand has yet to
experience such excesses, but
a few modern malls are now
appearing in the larger towns
and resorts. Examples include
SHOPPING IN THAILAND
Kad Suan Kaew in Chiang
Mai and the Mike Shopping
Mall and Central Pattaya
Festival Beach Shopping
in Pattaya.
English-language
Bookstores
Thailand has three English-
language book and magazine
chains: Asia Books, Kinokuniya,
and Bookazine. All have several
branches in Bangkok; there are
Asia Books branches in Chiang
Mai malls, and smaller Bookazine
shops in any area frequented by
foreigners. Smaller independent
bookshops specialize in good-
value used books.
Fake Goods
Thailand’s trade in fakes is so notorious that many people seek out
the most kitsch items as souvenirs. Most prized are goods with a
deliberately fake quality, using famous logos on products they’d
never normally grace, such as Louis Vuitton fanny packs or Chanel
T-shirts. Conversely, identical copies with spoof labels like Live’s
Jeans are even becoming
collectors’ items. Original
manufacturers are
understandably outraged by
the piracy. Although it could
be argued that aping an
original is a way for a
developing country to gain
skill on which to build new
industries, it is still illegal.
In fact, a growing copyright
clampdown has shrunk the
trade in fakes and even led
to some forgers becoming
official import agents.
Be warned that customs
officers may confiscate fakes.
 435
Markets and Street
Vendors
There is a market at the heart
of every Thai town. Even the
smallest will offer a good range
of fresh produce, and the larger
markets often sell everything
from arts and crafts to fruit and
vegetables and household items.
The most notable are Chatuchak
Market (see p139), the Chiang
Mai Night Bazaar (see p230), the
Pattaya Floating Market, and the
night market in Chiang Rai.
For markets in central Bangkok,
see pages 144–5.
Impromptu roadside stands
are also found all over the
country. Some sell devotional
items such as jasmine rings
(see p35), and others are good
for souvenirs (though many of
the goods are of dubious
legality). Chiang Mai, Pattaya,
and Patong in Phuket have
many such stands. In Bangkok
they are found on Silom and
Sukhumvit roads, and in Bang-
lampu and Patpong districts.
Factories and Craft
Centers
Tours of factory outlets and craft
centers are popular, particularly
in the North and Northeast.
No bargaining is required as
prices are fixed, but be aware
that guides take commissions.
Street stall in Pattaya selling fake
versions of expensive watches
436  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Thai Silk
The ancient art of Thai silk-
weaving (see pp270–71) was
revived by American Jim
Thompson (see pp122–3) after
World War II and is now a
booming export business. Silk
can be plain, patterned, or in
the subtle mut mee style made
from pre-tie-dyed (ikat) thread.
Aside from Thai designs, this
heavy, bright, and slightly rough
cloth is now imaginatively used
for ties, dresses, shirts, skirts, and
other Western fashion items,
plus cushions, hangings, and
sundry ornaments. Many
shops will tailor clothes to
your measurements, even
to your own designs.
Most silk comes from the
Northeast and the North,
but some is woven in and
around Bangkok. For range
and quality, Surawong Road in
Bangkok is reliable, particularly
Jim Thompson’s, as well as
Shinawatra on Sukhumvit Road.
Chiang Mai’s San Kamphaeng
Road is renowned for its silk,
the most famous producer
being T. Shinawatra Thai Silk.
The Thai Silk Fair is held
annually in Khon Kaen in late
November or early December,
when the town is packed with
vendors and their bolts of cloth.
If you miss the fair, Prathamakant
sells a superb selection of silk
all year round.
A dazzling selection of swatches of
colorful Thai silk
Clothes
Thai tailors can make suits and
dresses to order for low prices.
Resist the rip-off 24-hour
package deals including a “free
gift.” You get better service by
Made-to-measure suits are a specialty of
many tailors in Thailand
seriously assessing the designs,
fabric, and cut, and insisting on
one or two intermediate fittings.
In Bangkok, countless Chinese
and Indian tailors advertise in
tourist magazines and outside
their shops along Sukhumvit,
Charoen Krung, and Khao San
Roads. Designs are usually
copied, often with considerable
skill, from magazines or
catalogues of famous brands
such as Armani and Hugo Boss.
The quality of workmanship can
vary considerably. Ask around
for recommendations.
Other popular items of
Thai clothing include baggy
fishermen’s pants; batik sarongs
(especially in the South, such as
at Ko Yo, Songkhla); vests and
trousers made from hill-tribe
fabrics; Thai silk and other
Northeastern fabrics.
Arts and Crafts
Most Thai handicrafts are
produced in the North and
Northeast, and Chiang Mai is
undoubtedly where visitors will
find the widest choice of goods.
The vibrant, diverse Night Bazaar
sells everything from lacquerware
to teak furniture, and you will
need several hours if you want
to peruse the often overpriced
shops on San Kamphaeng
Road (Highway 1006).
Prathamakant in Khon
Kaen stocks a fine selection
of Northeastern items such as
the colorful triangular pillows.
Ayutthaya is a good source of
crafts and antiques, particularly
around Wat Phra Si Sanphet and
on Si Sanphet Road, where you
can find unique stone carvings
at Kim Jeng. Nearby Bang Sai
Folk Arts and Crafts Center is
the focus of Queen Sirikit’s
SUPPORT Foundation, which
enables villagers to make a living
from preserving their traditions
(see p109). The fine pieces they
produce are also sold at the
dozen Chitrlada shops around
Thailand. High-quality ethnic
crafts are available from
boutiques in most top hotels,
Silom Village, River City, and
the less expensive Narai Phand
department store in Bangkok.
The open-air Patong OTOP
Shopping Paradise in Phuket
has lots to choose from.
Hill-Tribe Artifacts
The costumes and artifacts of
the hill tribes make fascinating
anthropological souvenirs. Items
might include Akha coin head-
dresses, Lahu geometric blankets
and cushion covers, Hmong red-
ruffled black jackets, brightly
colored Lisu tunics, wooden
cattle bells, almond-shaped
bamboo boxes, wooden boxes
with carvings, and woven rattan.
Some of the best outlets in
Chiang Mai are the Hill Tribe
Products Foundation, Thai Tribal
Crafts, and the Old Chiang Mai
Cultural Center. The Chiang Rai
Handicraft Center also has a
large range. In Bangkok, the best
selection is found at Chatuchak
Market (see p139). Buying from the
shop at Cabbages and Condoms
will ensure that your money goes
to the tribes.
Lisu tribeswoman, selling tribal goods at a
Chiang Rai bazaar

Roadside basket seller in Northern Thailand
Wood, Bamboo, and
Rattan
Bamboo, rattan, and wooden
items are very cheap and can
be shipped home. Carved
wooden friezes, screens,
headboards, doors, and lintels
are readily available. Chiang Mai
is the best source – Pen Phong
is good for rattan/bamboo.
Woodcarving is a specialty of
Mae Tha and Ban Luk near
Lampang, as well as the Bo
Hang district of Chiang Mai.
Hang Dong and Saraphi, south
of Chiang Mai, are known for
their intricate basketware.
Be aware that if you buy
wooden items, you may be
contributing to Thailand’s
already disastrous
deforestation problem.
Attractive celadon and blue and white
ceramics in Bangkok
Ceramics
Delicate Bencharong pottery was
historically made in China and
sent to Thailand to be decorated
with intricate floral patterns using
five colors. Today the entire
process occurs in Thailand. You
can buy complete dinner services
in Bencharong, and myriad
designs, including the more
typical spherical pots. In Bangkok,
Chatuchak Market is cheaper and
offers a wider choice than the
downtown shops.
SHOPPING IN THAILAND  437
The heavy celadon pottery Kalaga Tapestries
style is distinguished by its The weaving of kalaga tapes
etched designs under tries involves metallic and
a thick, translucent multicolored threads, beads,
green, blue, or patches, and sequins sewn onto
brown glaze a padded black background. It is
with a cracked a 200-year-old Burmese art but
patina. It’s best has only now been revived, so
bought direct antique examples are rare and
from the potteries very expensive. The ubiquitous
in Chiang Mai, modern embroideries are often
where the top producer is gaudy and sloppily made, but
Mengrai Kilns, but is also the more carefully constructed
available in Bangkok from Thai (and more expensive) simple
Celadon House and many craft traditional designs can make
shops including those on Silom attractive cushions, hangings,
and Charoen Krung roads. bags, and even caps. Towns
Lampang is notable for its near to the Burmese border
fine blue and white ceramics, such as Mae Sot and Mae Sai
produced by companies such are usually the best sources.
as Indra Ceramics.
Musical Instruments,
Lacquerware Masks and Puppets
Lacquerware is a Northern Thai Musical instruments including
specialty. It usually has floral, khaens (Northeastern “pan
flame, or portrait designs in pipes”), piphat ensemble gongs,
black and gold on bamboo and drums make impressive
and wood. More common is souvenirs. They are available at
the Burmese style of red ocher Chiang Mai’s Night Bazaar and at
on bamboo and rattan with Silom Village, Narayanaphand,
pictorial scenes or floral designs. Chatuchak, and Nakorn Kasem
Traditional items include markets in Bangkok. These
boxes for food and jewelry. places are also good sources of
Lacquerware is plentiful in the khon masks and theatrical items
craft shops of Chiang Mai such as intricate hoon krabok
and Bangkok. puppets and nang taloong and
nang yai shadow puppets.
In the South, Nakhon Si
Nielloware and Thammarat is the place for
Pewterware shadow puppets. They can be
Nielloware, the intricate process bought from the Shadow
of silver (or, more rarely, gold) Puppet Theater, and, if you
inlay in a black metal amalgam phone in advance, the master
in floral and flame patterns, puppet-maker will show you
makes for beautiful items like how the puppets are made.
cufflinks, pill boxes,
and jewelry. Some of
the finest is from
Nakhon Si
Thammarat.
Southern Thailand
has significant tin
deposits, so
pewterware has
become a major
craft. Typical items
include tankards,
plates, vases, and
boxes. Department
stores in Bangkok
and stores in Phuket
town stock
good selections. Narai Phand, a government-sponsored store in Bangkok
438  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Antiques
The delicacy and charm of Thai
antiques are so appealing to
shoppers that the few antiques
remaining in the country are
very expensive, fakes, or illegally
obtained. Thailand is, in fact,
one of the principal outlets for
antiques from all over Southeast
Asia. Some shops resemble
museums, jumbled with
tapestries, statues, cabinets, bells,
puppets, ceramics, baskets,
lacquerware, and temple
artifacts. They’re enchanting
even if you’re not buying.
Bargains are rare, although
prices are lower than in Hong
Kong or Singapore. Chiang Mai’s
Tha Phae and Loi Khro Roads
are a bit cheaper than the main
sources in Bangkok: Charoen
Krung Road, River City, Chatuchak
Market, and in Chinatown at
Wang Burapha and Nakorn
Kasem Market. There are antique
auctions at River City on the
first Saturday of each month.
The excellent copies available
are a cheaper, more culturally
responsible alternative.
Recommended shops include
Amaravadee Antiques and
Borisoothi Antiques in Chiang
Mai, and Bangkok’s The Fine
Arts and NeOld.
Export permits are required
for antiques and all Buddha
images from the Fine Arts
Department via the National
Museum and take at least a
week to obtain (see p459).
Not surprisingly, given that so
much of their cultural heritage
has left the country, Thai
customs officers are vigilant in
enforcing this regulation.
Antiques in one of Bangkok’s more
exclusive shops
Shoppers admiring gold jewelry in Bangkok’s Chinatown
Jewelry classed as jewelry and the
Thai jewelry tends to be large trade in these sacred items is
and expressive, often with superb widely disapproved of, not least
detailing. The country has a long by the Buddhist authorities
history of silverwork, particularly who believe it exploits and
in the North and Northeast and encourages superstition. You
among the hill tribes. The need a licence to export them.
Wualai Road shops in Chiang
Mai offer a good selection.
Necklaces, bracelets, earrings, Gems
and Lao-style belts are typical in Bangkok is possibly the world’s
employing silver thread and biggest gem-trading center. The
filigree detail, often incorporating local stones are rubies, red and
silver beads and large, plate-like blue spinels, orange and white
pendants. Contemporary and zircons, and yellow and blue
international styles are sapphires (see pp314–5). Markets
increasingly preferred in cities operate around Chanthaburi,
and resorts. More affordable Kanchanaburi, Mae Sai, and in
modern costume Mae Sot on the Burmese
jewelry sells well in border, where gems
Siam Square and are cheaper than in
Chatuchak Market in Bangkok. However,
Bangkok, where you you’ll need an expert
can buy inexpensive eye to pick out the
ethnic wares and bargains and should
jewelry created Intricate bejeweled be wary of illegally
from such diverse silver pendant smuggled gems.
materials as nuts, Phuket is Thailand’s
seeds, shells, and beans. only good source of high-quality
Some of Thailand’s best pearls; the reputable Pearl of
jewelry is found in Bangkok’s Phuket is worth a visit.
Peninsula Plaza shopping mall Gem scams are notorious in
as well as hotels such as the Bangkok and Chiang Mai, so run a
Dusit Thani. Some shops will mile if someone friendly says it’s a
work to your own specifications, public holiday so there’s a govern-
notably Uthai’s Gems in Bangkok ment suspension of tax. Countless
and Shiraz in Chiang Mai. Richard people have fallen for this ruse
Brown designs personalized before being coaxed into parting
Vedic astrological jewelry at with large sums of money by
Astral Gemstone Talismans. clever salesmanship and even,
Gold is a popular, age-old sometimes, drugged drinks.
form of portable wealth, and It is possible to learn
the most common type is the gemology and have stones
very yellow, Chinese-style gold. authenticated and graded
There are Chinese-owned gold (but not valued) at the Asian
shops in most sizable towns. Institute of Gemological
Be warned that amulets are not Sciences in Bangkok.
 SHOPPING IN THAILAND  439

DIRECTORY
Department Kinokuniya Hill­Tribe Artifacts Antiques
Stores and Malls Floor 6, Isetan,
Ratchadamri Rd, Bangkok. Cabbages and Amaravadee
Central Department Map 8 D1. Condoms Antiques
Store Tel 0-2255-9834. 6 Sukhumvit, Soi 12, 141 Chiang Mai–Hot Rd,
Silom Complex, 191 Silom Bangkok. Map 8 F1. Tel 0- Chiang Mai.
Rd, Bangkok. Map 7 A4. Thai Silk Tel 0-5344-1628.
2229-4611, 0-2229-4610.
Tel 0-2231-3333.
Borisoothi Antiques
Jim Thompson’s Chiang Rai
Central Pattaya Festi­ 9 Surawong Rd, Bangkok.
15/2 Chiangmai-San
val Beach Shopping Handicrafts Center Kamphaeng Rd, Chiang
Map 7 C3. 732 Mu 5 Rimkok, Phahon
333/9 Beach Rd & 2nd Mai. Tel 0-5333-8460.
Tel 0-2235-8931. Yothin Rd, Chiang Rai.
Rd, Pattaya. The Fine Arts
Tel 0-3300-3999. Prathamakant Tel 0-5371-3355.
3/F Room 354 River City,
79/2–3 Ruenrom Rd,
Central World Plaza Hill Tribe Products Bangkok. Map 6 F3.
Khon Kaen.
Soi 4, Ratchadamri Rd, Foundation Tel 0-2237-0077 ext.354.
Tel 0-4322-4080.
Bangkok. Map 8 D1. 21/17 Besibewat Suan National Museum
Tel 0-2264-5555. Shinawatra Dok, Suthep Rd, Chiang Fine Arts Department, 1
145/1–2 Chiang Mai-San
Emporium Mai. Tel 0-5327-7743. Na Phra That Rd, Bangkok.
Kamphaeng Rd,
622 Sukhumvit Rd, Map 1 C4.
Chiang Mai. Old Chiang Mai
Prompong, Bangkok. Tel 0-2224-1402.
Tel 0-5333-8053. Cultural Center
Map 8 F1. NeOld
T. Shinawatra 185 Wualai Rd, Chiang
Tel 0-2269-1000. 149/2–3 Surawong Rd,
Thai Silk Mai. Tel 0-5320-2993.
Fashion Island Bangkok. Map 7 B4.
94 Sukhumvit Rd, Soi Thai Tribal Crafts
589/719 Ramindra Rd, Tel 0-2235-8352,
23, Bangkok.
Bangkok. 208 Bamrung Rad Rd, 0-2235-8919.
Tel 0-2258-0295.
Tel 0-2947-5000. Chiang Mai. Tel 0-5324-
Arts and Crafts 1043, 081-023-8842. Jewelry
Kad Suan Kaew
99/4 Mu 2, Huai Kaew Rd, Astral Gemstone
Bang Sai Folk Arts Wood, Bamboo, Talismans
Chiang Mai. Tel 0-5322- and Crafts Center and Rattan
4444, 0-8691-7372-4. All Seasons Place,
Tambon, Bang Sai,
Pen Phong Conrad Hotel,
Mike Shopping Mall Ayutthaya province.
87/208 Wireless Rd,
262 Mu 10, 2nd Rd, Tel 0-3536-6252, 189/25 Nongkaew Rd,
Bangkok.
Pattaya. 0-3536-2253. Hangdong, Chiang Mai.
Tel 0-2252-1230.
Tel 0-3841-2000. Tel 0-5343-3745.
Chitrlada Shop
Shiraz
Peninsula Plaza Chitrlada Palace, Bangkok.
Map 3 B2.
Ceramics 170 Thapae Rd, Chiang
153 Ratchadamri Rd, Mai. Tel 0-5325-2382.
Bangkok. Map 8 D1. Tel 0-2229-4611. Indra Ceramics
Tel 0-2253-9762. Thai Lapidary
Kim Jeng 382 Mu 1, Lampang–
1009–1011 Silom Rd,
Robinson’s 12 Mu 2, Kamang, Denchai Rd, Lampang.
Bangkok. Map 7 C4.
55 Srinakarin Rd, Nong Ayutthaya. Tel 0-5422-1189, Tel 0-2236-2134.
Bon, Bangkok. Narai Phand 0-5431-0583.
Tel 0-2651-1533. Uthai’s Gems
President Tower, Ploenchit Mengrai Kilns 28/7 Soi Ruam Rudi,
Seacon Square Rd, Bangkok. Map 8 E1. 79/2 Araks Rd, Samlarn Ploenchit Rd, Bangkok.
904 Srinakharin Rd, Bang- Tel 0-2656-0398.
Soi 6, Chiang Mai. Map 8 F2.
kok. Tel 0-2721-8888. Patong OTOP Tel 0-5327-2063. Tel 0-2253-8582.
Siam Paragon Shopping Paradise
Ratutit Rd, Patong, Thai Celadon House Gems
Shopping Center
Phuket. 8/3–8/5 Ratchadapisek
Rama I Rd, Bangkok. Asian Institute of
Rd, Sukhumvit, Bangkok.
Map 7 C1. Tel 0-2690- River City Gemological Sciences
Tel 0-2229-4383.
1000, 02-610-8000. 23 Trok Rongnamkaeng, 33rd Floor, Jewellery
Yotha Rd, Bangkok. Puppets Trade Center, 919/1 Silom
English­Language Map 6 F3. Tel 0-2237- Rd, Bangkok. Map 7 A4.
Bookstores 0077, 0-2237-0078. Shadow Puppet Tel 0-2267-4315.
Asia Books Silom Village Theater Pearl of Phuket
221 Sukhumvit Rd, 286 Silom Rd, Bangkok. 10/18 Si Thammasok Soi Baan Sapam, Ko Kaew Rd,
Bangkok. Tel 0-2651- Map 7 A4. 3, Nakhon Si Thammarat. Phuket town.
0428, 0-2252-7277. Tel 0-2635-6810. Tel 0-7534-6394. Tel 0-7637-7730.
440  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

What to Buy in Thailand

Thai market stalls, craft centers, and specialty shops offer
a wide and tempting range of souvenirs and gifts. Handicrafts
are particularly good buys, and there are few regions of the
country without their own specialty. In the south you can find
delicately worked nielloware, pewter, and shadow puppets;
colorful hill-tribe artifacts, lacquerware, and silver jewelry
are made in the North; the Northeast is famed for its silk
and cushions. The widest selection is available in major
cities such as Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

Traditional Masks and Puppets

Thailand has a rich tradition of masked dance
and puppetry, and although performances are Nang talung puppet
becoming increasingly rare, masks and puppets
make evocative souvenirs. Most depict characters
from the Ramakien (see pp44–5) and include huge
leather nang yai figures, smaller nang talung
shadow puppets, hoon krabok marionettes, and
the smaller hoon lek (see pp46–7). Puppets can be
bought in the South as well as at markets such
as Chatuchak in Bangkok. Figure of a Thai musician Khon mask of
a demon
Rattan and Wickerwork come in many guises, from Nielloware is an ancient craft that has been
simple rice steamers to attractive and durable sets of practiced in the South of Thailand for several
rattan furniture. Trays, boxes, and bags are popular centuries. Nakhon Si Thammarat province is the
and can be found for sale in many Thai center of Thai nielloware production
markets, particularly in Bangkok and today. The process involves the
Chiang Mai. decorative etching of silver and
Reputable shops gold items that are then
can arrange for rubbed with a black metal
large items to alloy. Jewelry and small
be shipped boxes are the most
overseas. affordable items.

Wood-Carving is a
highly skilled profession,
and visitors can buy
everything from tiny
carved bowls and pill boxes
to huge screens, cabinets, and
beds. However, be aware that some hardwood
items may be made from illegally felled trees.

Lacquerware items include jewelry boxes,

bangles, bowls, and trays. The process of coating
split bamboo or wood with lacquer and then
adding delicate hand-paintings is a specialty of the
north. The two most common styles of decoration
are gold on black lacquer and the Burmese style of
yellow and green on red. Chiang Mai is
the best source.
Hill-Tribe Artifacts
are sold in towns and
villages all over Northern Thailand, although
Chiang Mai undoubtedly has the widest range of
handicrafts. Among the most attractive items are
patchwork bags, brightly colored blankets, delicately
wrought silver jewelry, and hand-embroidered
jackets and hats. If you go on a trek it is likely that
you will visit at least one hill-tribe village, enabling
you to buy the local handicrafts direct from the
producers and, sometimes, see them being made.
 SHOPPING IN THAILAND  441

Ceramics have been produced in Thailand for

hundreds of years. Although many styles show a
pronounced Chinese influence, there are also
several types of ceramics that are given a
distinctive Thai stamp. One is the colorfully
enameled Bencharong pottery that is most
commonly found as small pots and vases.
Celadon is another example. It is recognizable
Blue and white dinner service by its characteristic crazed surface on a
typically light green glaze.
Celadon
Bencharong
vase
pot

Silverware is another traditional Northern

Thai craft. Beaten silver bowls, vases, and
boxes, often with expertly worked relief
Yellow and blue
patterns, are popular buys, particularly
in Chiang Mai. Delicate silver jewelry in sapphire ring
traditional and
modern designs
is also widely
available
throughout
the North and Orchid jewelry A selection of sapphires
in Bangkok.
Silver bird Jewelry and gems are particularly tempting purchases in
Thailand. Not only is the country one of the world’s major
sources of rubies and sapphires, but it is also well known for
skillfully crafted jewelry. Jewelers who display their work in
the shops within the top hotels usually offer good quality at
fair prices, but it is unwise to buy gems with the intention of
Hanuman on reselling at a profit unless you are an expert.
Silver bowl silver box lid

Thai Fabrics
Silk is without doubt the best known Thai fabric and
probably the number-one buy for visitors (see p436).
It comes in an enormous range of styles, weights, and
designs, both ancient and modern, including tie-dyed
mud mee. Thai cotton goods are also excellent – pha sin
skirts and triangular mawn sam liam cushions often feature
complex patterns. The hill tribes are known for their
bold, geometric fabric designs.
In the South, batik sarongs and
baggy fishermen’s trousers
are widely available.

Hill-tribe (Hmong) tapestry

Mawn sam liam cushion

Patterned Scarf of raw Thai silk Traditional cotton

silk tie fishermen’s trousers Cotton pha sin skirt
442  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN
THAILAND
Modern Thailand may have adopted many
foreign pursuits, from Hollywood movies to
karaoke, but traditional entertainments still
flourish. Although the graceful movements
of classical khon dance-dramas survive
mainly as tourist shows, the grassroots
following of such typically Thai obsessions as
muay thai boxing remains as strong as ever.
High-spirited sanuk (fun) is an all-embracing
activity, even on the most serious of occasions
such as religious festivals. Indulging in the local
passions is essential to understanding life in
Thailand, whether it be a song-filled night out
at a bar or folk music club, a colorful temple
fair, a classical concert, a takraw game,
or watching the latest Thai movie.

Traditional Theater Khum Kaew Khantoke Palace.

The Thailand Cultural Center, the country’s
premier concert venue
Information Sources
Details of the major events and
festivals throughout Thailand
are provided in a booklet
available from TAT offices.
Monthly magazines Bangkok
101 and Big Chilli are good
sources of information on
events, venues, and
new restaurants in
Bangkok. It is also
worthwhile
consulting the
English-language
newspapers, the
Bangkok Post and
the Nation, and
the many
free tourist
magazines. Good
hotels should also be able
to provide information.
Booking Tickets
Major hotels and travel
agencies can book tickets for
cultural shows and sports
events. Alternatively, you can
buy tickets direct from venues
or, for major events, from Thai
TicketMajor counters at Central
Department Store (see p439).
To book by phone call
0-2262-3456, or visit
www.thaiticketmajor.com.
and Dance
Watching the stylized royal all-
male masked dance khon is like
seeing the murals of Wat Phra
Kaeo come to life. Sadly, popular
interest in the mostly Ramakien-
based dance-dramas is waning,
and performances of khon, and
of the equally elaborate but less
formal lakhon, are becoming
increasingly rare. In even greater
danger of extinction are the
hoon lek marionette shows
(see pp46–7).
The most atmospheric place
to watch traditional dance is at
Sanam Luang on the evening of
royal ceremonies such as the
king’s birthday or a funeral. At
such times dozens of stages
provide entertainment
long into the night.
Complete perfor-
mances can last
days, so abridged
scenes are chosen for
shows at the National
Theater (indoors on
Bangkok’s listings the last Saturday and
magazine Sunday of the month;
outdoors every
Saturday and Sunday from
December to May) and the
hi-tech Royal Chalermkrung
Theater in Bangkok and at
the Old Chiang Mai
Cultural Center.
Countless tourist dinner
shows in the major cities and
resorts offer bills of dances
from all over the country.
Chiang Mai’s
famous khantoke
dinners (see p42),
including dancing, can
be experienced at the
Khantoke Palace and
Reliable venues in Bangkok
include the Sampran Riverside
and Silom Village, while the
Oriental’s Sala Rim Nam
restaurant presents authentic
khon. Lakhon can also be
witnessed at Bangkok’s Lak
Muang shrine near Sanam
Luang, and the Erawan Shrine.
Traditional Thai puppetry can
be seen at the Aksra Theatre.
The most widespread dance-
drama is likay, a regular feature
of temple fairs, festivals, and TV.
Its bawdy, slapstick, and satirical
elements have allowed it to
retain a popular contemporary
following. The ancient
equivalent from the South of
Thailand is manora.
Still widespread in Malaysia
and Indonesia, nang talung
shadow puppet shows survive
only in the Deep South at
Phatthalung and Nakhon Si
Thammarat (see p389).
Performances of nang talung
at local festivals can run all
night, but an hour or two is
usually enough for most
tourists. Even rarer
are performances
of nang yai, in
which enormous,
flat leather puppets
are manipulated
by a team
of puppeteers.
A traditional khon performance

Concerts, Exhibitions,
and Modern Theater
Thailand’s major concert and
exhibition halls are located in
Bangkok. The state-of-the-art
Thailand Cultural Center
has excellent performance
facilities and attracts popular
international names. The
German Goethe-Institut and
the Alliance Française host first-
rate exhibitions and concerts.
Top stars frequently perform in
the ballrooms of luxury hotels
such as the Dusit Thani.
Bangkok Playhouse often
stages plays in English and it
also houses the Art Corner
gallery, though H Gallery
is the best place to go and
see contemporary Thai art.
The Bangkok Art & Culture
Center also holds fascinating
exhibitions, and stages concerts,
performances, lectures, and
film screenings.
Exhibition space at Bangkok Art and
Culture Center
Movies
Thais are avid movie-goers.
Bangkok now has a number of
huge multiplexes, but there are
still 2,000 mobile units in the
country that offer impromptu
open-air screenings in villages.
The film industry in Thailand
has a long, erratic history.
Despite socially aware classics
like Luk Isan (1978), it has
mostly produced formulaic
melodramas, comedies, and
violent action films. Hong Kong
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N T H A I L A N D
action movies have long been
popular, but, since the early
1990s, Hollywood movies have
dominated the Thai market.
However, Thai cinema has been
enjoying a renaissance and
it is now regarded as one of
the most creative in Southeast
Asia. The capital also hosts
the increasingly prestigious
annual Bangkok International
Film Festival.
Some of the theaters in
Bangkok (such as The Lido
and Siam Cinema), Chiang
Mai, Pattaya, Phuket, and Hat
Yai show movies with their
original soundtracks.
Discos, Bars, Comedy,
Music, and Folk Clubs
Challenged by international
rock and sugary Thai pop,
folk music has retained its
popularity. It can be heard on
the radio and TV, in bars, at
festivals, and impromptu
gatherings, particularly
outside the capital, although
concerts are rarely publicized
in English. It is also played in
the unsalubrious cafés staging
talok (comedy), which do not
welcome tourists.
The main styles include the
exuberant, rhythmic rum wong,
which is often accompanied by
a jocular dance; look thung
(“country music”), combining
big band music, costumed
dance troupes, and singing;
and the schmaltzy, ballad-
based look kroong. Favored by
bus and taxi drivers, the faster
Northeastern mo’lam sound
is distinguished by khaen
pipes and rap-like vocals.
The Khmer-style kantrum
music of the southern region
of the Northeast can be heard
in Surin’s Petchkasem Hotel
on weekends. The plaintive,
radical
phleng phua
chiwit
(“songs
for life”)
emerged
during the “Adult” entertainment from
student protests the King’s Group
of the 1970s
and has a few dedicated spots,
such as Raintree, in Bangkok.
 443
Emerging rock bands often
play at Flann O’Brien’s Irish
Pub, while hotels host
classier venues: Spasso
(Grand Hyatt Erawan),
Angelini (Shangri-La), and
the Oriental’s Lord Jim’s
and jazzy Bamboo Bar.
Friends sharing food and
whisky while listening to live
music is the nightlife formula
throughout Thailand, although
karaoke, discos, and themed
bars are gaining ground.
In Bangkok, fashionable
districts come and go at great
speed. A long-term live-music
favorite is Brown Sugar Jazz
Boutique, which features some
of the city’s top performers,
mainly jazz. The gay night scene
takes place on Silom Soi’s 2 and
4, with Soi 2 starting later and
going longer and wilder.
Saxophone Pub is a long-
standing favorite for live jazz
and blues. In Chiang Mai, The
Riverside leads a string of
venues beside the Ping River.
Discos can be found
throughout all of the
major resorts in Thailand.
The many large Bangkok
nightclubs include the ever-
popular Narz Club.
The flesh-trade districts –
such as Patpong (see p120),
Nana Entertainment Plaza
(Sukhumvit Soi 3), and
Soi Cowboy (off Soi Asoke)
in Bangkok, plus Pattaya
and Patong in Phuket –
are notorious for their
bizarre gynecological
“entertainments.” Rip-offs
are common, although
the King’s Group’s bars are
among the most “reputable.”
One of Thailand’s most
infamous and popular
attractions on stage
and TV is its cross-
dressing katoeys,
or “ladyboys.”
Tourists flock to their
sanitized transvestite
shows at Calypso
Cabaret in Bangkok,
Chiang Mai Cabaret
in Chiang Mai, Simon
Cabaret in Patong,
and Alcazar in
Pattaya, which boasts the
best performers.
444  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Temple Fairs and
Festivals
The Thai calendar is packed
with national holidays and
local festivals (see pp50–55).
These festivals may be religious
or in honor of a local hero, to
promote seasonal produce,
or dedicated to other activities
like boat racing and kite flying.
As well as often hosting other
events, most wats stage temple
fairs. But apart from scheduled
major fairs such as the Golden
Mount Temple Fair in Bangkok at
Loy Krathong (see p54), it’s usually
a matter of chance whether you
encounter one. The sideshows
are often as entertaining as the
ceremonies with vendors selling
food and trinkets, colorful
characters like the cross-dressing
katoeys, folk music such as likay
and lam wong, beauty contests,
and who-can-eat-the-hottest-
som-tam competitions. Other
activities might include cock
fighting or Siamese fighting
fish contests.
Staged spectaculars aimed
at tourists include the sound-
and-light, fireworks, and other
festivities at the Sukhothai
ruins during Loy Krathong in
November and during the
Khwae River Bridge Week at
Kanchanaburi (see p54).
Parade during the Loy Krathong festival
in Lampang
Muay Thai and
Krabi-Krabong
Thai kick boxing, muay thai, is
a national passion (see pp48–9).
Most provinces have a boxing
arena, but the nation’s top
two venues are in the capital.
Ratchadamnoen Boxing
Stadium has bouts on
Mondays, Wednesdays,
Thursdays, and Sundays;
Muay thai boxing – passionately followed all over Thailand
and boxing can be seen
at Lumphini Stadium on
Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.
If you are interested in
learning, rather than simply
watching, the skills involved
in muay thai, then contact the
International Amateur Muay
Thai Federation, who should
be able to recommend suitable
gyms and instructors.
Another revered, long-
established Thai martial art
is krabi-krabong, named
“sword-staff” after some of the
hand weaponry used. The
techniques are taught to
ancient standards, although
skill and stamina rather than
injuries inflicted are now the
measures of an accomplished
fighter. Demonstrations
are often included in tourist
cultural shows.
Takraw
The acrobatic Southeast Asian
sport of takraw is played by
young males at seemingly
any clear patch of ground
in Thailand. The idea is to
keep a woven rattan ball in
the air using any part of your
body except your hands. The
players’ extraordinary agility,
balletic leaps, and speed of
reactions are a revelation
to visitors reared on more
ponderous sports.
There are elaborate versions
emphasizing individual skill,
but the classic original style
has a team trying to get the ball
into a basketball-like net more
times in a set period than their
rivals. Despite the competitive
version, sepak takraw, which
resembles volleyball, now being
incorporated into the Asian
Games, professional games
are played surprisingly rarely.
The remarkably acrobatic takraw
Soccer, Rugby, and
Snooker
Thais have developed a feverish
enthusiasm for soccer. Major
foreign teams often visit Thailand
for both official and “friendly”
matches. Rugby has also sparked
remarkable interest, with
established clubs competing
in a league and the Hong Kong
Sevens. Games are mostly held
in Bangkok at the Pathumwan
Stadium, Hua Mark Stadiums,
Army Stadium, and Royal
Bangkok Sports Club.
Thailand is the most successful
non-Anglophone country to
adopt snooker, which has
become hugely popular. Its
dangerous association with
underground gambling makes
it hard for players to emulate
champions like James Wattana,
though there are some safe
clubs around. Thailand hosts
world ranking tournaments in
March and September.
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N T H A I L A N D  445

DIRECTORY
Traditional Bangkok Art and Brown Sugar Jazz Muay Thai and
Theater and Culture Center Boutique Krabi-Krabong
Dance 939 Rama I Road, Phrasumen Rd, Bangkok.
International
Bangkok Map 2 D3.
Aksra Theatre Amateur Muay Thai
Map 7 C1. Tel 0-2282-0396.
Rangnam Rd, Bangkok. Federation
Tel 0-2214-6630 ∑ brownsugar­
Pathumwan Stadium, 154
Map 4 E4. bangkok.com
Bangkok Playhouse/ Rama I Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2677-8888.
Art Corner Calypso Cabaret Map 7 B1.
Khantoke Palace 2884/2 New Phetchaburi Asia Hotel, 296 Phayathai Tel 0-2215-6212-4.
288/19 Chang Khlan Rd, Rd, Bangkok. Rd, Bangkok. Lumphini Stadium
Chiang Mai. Tel 0-2718-0600. Tel 0-2653-3960. 6 Ram Indra Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-5327-2757. Tel 0-2284-3141.
Goethe-Institut Chiang Mai Cabaret
∑ muaythailumpinee.
Khumkaew Palace 18/1 Soi Atthakan Prasit, Anusarn Night Bazaar,
net
Khantoke Vista Hotel Sathorn Tai Rd, Bangkok. Chang Klan Rd,
252/19–23 Phra Pok Klao Map 8 E4. Chiang Mai. Ratchadamnoen
Rd, Chiang Mai. Tel 0-2287-0942. Boxing Stadium
Flann O’Brien’s Irish 1 Ratchadamnoen Nok
Tel 0-5321-0663. ∑ goethe.de/bangkok
Pub Rd, Bangkok.
National Theater H Gallery 62 Silom Rd, Bangkok. Map 2 F4.
Rachinee Rd (Prapinklao 201 Sathorn Soi 12, Map 8 C4. Tel 0-2281-4205.
Bridge), Pranakorn, Bangkok. Map 7 A5. Tel 0-2632-7515.
Bangkok. Map 1 C4. Tel 08-5021-5508.
Lord Jim’s
Soccer, Rugby,
Tel 0-2224-1342. ∑ hgallerybkk.com and Snooker
Oriental Hotel,
Old Chiang Mai Thailand Cultural 48 Oriental Ave, Bangkok. Army Stadium
Cultural Center Center Map 6 F4. Wiphawadirangsit Rd,
Ratchadaphisek Rd, Tel 0-2236-0400. Bangkok.
185/3 Wualai Rd,
Bangkok. Tel 0-2278-5000.
Chiang Mai. Narz Club
Tel 0-2247-0028.
Tel 0-5327-5097. 112 Sukhumvit Soi 23, Hua Mark Indoor and
Bangkok. Outdoor Stadiums
Royal Chalermkrung Movies 2088 Ramkhamhaeng Rd,
Tel 0-2258-4805.
Theater Bangkok. Tel 0-2318-
The Lido ∑ narzclubbangkok.
66 Charoen Krung Rd, 0940, 0-2318-0944.
256 Rama I Rd, Siam net
Bangkok.
Square, Bangkok. Pathumwan Stadium
Map 6 D1. Petchkasem Hotel
Map 7 C1. 154 Rama I Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2222-0434. 104 Chitbumrung Rd,
Tel 0-2252-6498. Map 7 B1.
Surin.
Sala Rim Nam Tel 0-2214-0120.
Siam Cinema Tel 0-4451-1274.
Oriental Hotel, 216 Siam Square Soi 1, Royal Bangkok
48 Oriental Ave, Bangkok. Raintree Sports Club
Rama I Rd, Pathumwan,
Map 6 F4. 116/64 Soi Rang Nam, off 1 Henri Dunant Rd,
Bangkok. Map 7 C1.
Tel 0-2236-0400. Phaya Thai Rd, Bangkok. Pathumwan, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2252-9976.
Tel 0-2245-7230. Map 8 D2.
Sampran Riverside Tel 0-2652-5000.
Off Hwy 4, 32 km
Discos, Bars, The Riverside
Comedy, Music, ∑ rbsc.org
9–11 Charoenraj Rd,
(20 miles) W of Bangkok.
and Folk Clubs Chiang Mai.
Tel 0-3432-2588.
Tel 0-5324-3239.
Silom Village Alcazar
Pattaya Second Rd, Saxophone Pub
286 Silom Rd, Bangkok.
Pattaya. Victory Monument,
Map 7 A4.
Tel 0-3841-0224-5. Bangkok. Map 4 E3.
Tel 0-2635-6810.
∑ alcazarpattaya.com Tel 0-2246-5472.
Concerts, Angelini Simon Cabaret
Exhibitions, and Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi 100/6–8 Mu 4, Karon Rd,
Modern Theater Wat Suan Phu, Bangkok. Patong, Phuket.
Map 6 F5. Tel 0-7634-2011.
Alliance Française Tel 0-2236-7777. Spasso
29 Sathorn Tai Rd, Bamboo Bar Grand Hyatt Erawan
Yannawa, Bangkok. Oriental Hotel, Hotel, 494 Ratchadamri
Map 8 D4. 48 Oriental Ave, Bangkok. Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2670-4200. Map 6 F4. Map 8 D1.
∑ alliancefr.org Tel 0-2236-0400. Tel 0-2254-1234.
446  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES &

SPECIAL INTERESTS
Thailand offers an impressive range of
outdoor activities and special interests. The
coastline in the south is ideal for aquatic fun,
from sailing, waterskiing, and windsurfing to
big-game fishing and diving to see some
spectacular coral reefs. Northern Thailand’s
mountainous forests are famous for their
waterfalls, caves, and wildlife, including
rare birds, gibbons, elephants, and tigers.
Trekking in this beautiful region to see
hill tribes is a controversial activity, and
there are claims that constant visits from
outsiders are eroding traditional culture,
so be sure to choose a responsible trekking
company with knowledgeable guides.
Thailand also has an extensive network
of national parks. Exciting ways to explore
the country’s natural wilderness include
sea canoeing, bamboo rafting, white-water
rafting and rock climbing.
Some visitors take advantage of the
growing number of excellent golf courses.
Others come to learn cultural skills such as
Buddhist meditation, traditional massage,
and Thai cooking techniques, which include
delicate vegetable carving.

Diving and Snorkeling magnificent Ko Phi Phi has

Abundant coral reefs thronging
with aquatic life – serviced by
countless diving operations –
make Thailand one of the
world’s most accessible and
rewarding destinations for
underwater exploration.
The Andaman coast and
islands, in particular, have some
stunning reefs, ocean drop-offs,
and submerged pinnacles.
The visibility in these areas
often exceeds 30 m (100 ft) –
a distance unheard of in most
parts of the world. A rich variety
of marine life can be spotted
in these waters, such as whale
sharks off the Burma Banks.
Much of the best diving is
to be found in the national
marine parks containing the
Surin, Similan, and Tarutao
archipelagos in the Andaman
Sea; Ko Tao in the western Gulf
of Thailand; and Ko Chang in
the eastern Gulf. The once-
Snorkeling with the marine life off the upper Andaman coast
not been protected by this
preserve status, and has been
heartbreakingly damaged by
careless anchoring and snorkelers
breaking the coral. Reckless
fishing with dragnets, harpoons,
and explosives has also killed
some reefs, while siltation and
pollution pose growing threats.
Though the devastating
tsunami of 2004 caused a tragic
loss of lives, its effect on the
coral reefs of the Andaman
Sea was fortunately minimal.
Because of rough weather
brought on by monsoons (see
pp30–31), the Andaman sites
are accessible from November
to April; the shallower waters
of the western Gulf are best
visited between January and
October. The Eastern Seaboard
is accessible all year round.
Diving trips vary in length
from one to several days, and
many tours accommodate
Spectacular diving around the reefs off
Thailand’s coasts and islands
snorkelers, too. Selected dive
companies are listed in the
directory (see pp452–3), and
fuller listings and details of
dive sites appear in the books
Asian Diver Scuba Guide:
Thailand (Asian Diver) and
Diving in Thailand (Asia Books).
PADI- and NAUI-approved
diving courses are widely
available in Thailand.
The main centers offering
courses are Phuket, Pattaya,
Khao Lak, Ko Tao, Ko Samui,
Ko Phi Phi, and Krabi.
Basic diving rules include:
inspect your equipment and
get the right fit; don’t dive
unless you are confident
in your instructor and have
been well trained; make
sure there’s a buddy system;
check that your group is
small enough for the dive
masters to monitor; and
never touch the coral.
For people who do not want
to spend the time or money on
 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES & SPECIAL INTERESTS
the training necessary to
become a certified diver,
snorkeling is an excellent
alternative, since all you need is
the ability to swim. Most hotels
and guesthouses located near
reefs can rent out equipment,
but to make the most of the
experience, it’s best to buy
your own. While the beautiful
patterns of the corals and
brilliant colors of the fish that
live among them can be
mesmerizing, it’s important to
be constantly aware of your
position and not to venture
too far from the shore.
Sailing
Thailand’s dramatic coastline
is popular with the yachting
fraternity, who come to Phuket
every December for the King’s
Cup Regatta. Chartering a yacht –
with or without a skipper – is
possible, though daily rates for
this very exclusive sport are
not cheap.
Gulf Charters Thailand
operates on the Eastern
Seaboard, where sea breezes
are often ideal, but the widest
choice of sailing companies is
found on Phuket. Some of the
best are Phuket Sailing,
Yachtpro, and South East
Asia Liveaboards.
Water Sports
Water sports are hugely popular
at many Thai beach resorts, but
the disturbance they cause to
holidaymakers is of concern,
and in places such as Krabi they
are banned. However, at most
other seaside towns it is possible
to rent windsurfing boards, and
jet skis and banana-boat rides
are becoming commonplace
even in national marine parks
such as Ko Samet.
For the best range of water
sports, including paragliding,
waterskiing, and motorboat
rental, head for Jomtien beach
at Pattaya; Hua Hin and Cha-am;
and Patong and Karon beaches
on Phuket.
Anglers can make use of the
excellent facilities for big-game
fishing at Pattaya and Phuket.
This can be a thrilling way to
Jet-skiing: an ever-popular but increasingly
controversial activity
pass a day, but be prepared
to pay in excess of 10,000 baht
for boat rental.
See the directory (pp452–3)
for details of service providers.
Canoeing
Sea canoeing is not just the
most peaceful way to enjoy the
unusual karst islets of Phangnga
Bay and the Angthong
archipelago, but also the only
way to explore their collapsed
sea caves. Ringed by forest and
often containing tiny beaches,
many of these spectacular hong
(literally “rooms”) were first
discovered by Sea Canoe
Thailand, which runs the most
responsible tours to these fragile
“lost worlds.” Another reliable
outfit that operates tours around
Phangnga Bay, Ko Tarutao
National Marine Park, and the
huge reservoir in Khao Sok
National Park is Paddle Asia.
Canoeing is a peaceful way to explore the splendid Thai coastline
 447
White-Water Rafting
and Kayaking
Sedate bamboo rafting
is a popular tourist pastime,
particularly on the rivers
in the north. More exciting,
though, is white-water
rafting on hardy inflatables.
No experience is necessary
apart from the ability to swim,
since instruction is given to
paddlers before setting out,
and each raft has a capable
crew to deal with any
emergency. The upper
reaches of the Pai and Moei
rivers in the north are ideal
for this thrilling sport, and
Umphang’s Mae Klong
district near Mae Sot is
particularly notable for
world-class rafting. Thai
Adventure Rafting, Siam
Rivers, and The Wild Lodge
are a few of the best
trip organizers.
For athletic types looking
for a challenge, white-water
kayaking offers plenty of thrills
and spills. Siam Rivers offers
day courses for beginners on
the Mae Taeng River, just north
of Chiang Mai, and tougher,
five-day trips on the Nam Wa
River in Nan Province.
The season for white-
water rafting and kayaking
in Thailand lasts from July to
December: this is when
water levels are high enough
to ensure an exciting ride.
448  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Golf
With green and caddie fees
cheaper than in the West, it’s
easy to see why so many visitors
include a round of golf on their
itinerary. Golf is very popular in
Thailand, and the country has
hosted several international
competitions at its growing
number of courses, many
designed by the game’s top
names. The greens around
Bangkok are mostly flat and
uninteresting, but there are
some beautiful backdrops at
golfing resorts in Phuket, Khao
Yai, and Chiang Mai.
Exclusivity is a feature of some
clubs, though many are open
to non-members, and golfing
vacation packages are particularly
popular at places such as
Pattaya, Phuket, and Hua Hin.
Visit www.golf thailand.net for
an idea of what is on offer. The
best printed guides to courses
are the Thailand Golf Map and
Thailand Golf Guide; TAT also
publishes a free directory of the
country’s top 75 courses. For
improving your handicap,
there’s a David Leadbetter
Academy of Golf at the Thana
City Golf and Country Club.
See the directory (pp452–3)
for additional golf clubs.
Elephant Riding
After the mechanization of
logging, and then its supposed
ban in 1989, working elephants
were no longer in great
Lining up a putt at one of Thailand’s growing number of golf courses. As well as the sport,
visitors can enjoy the beautiful settings of the courses
Kayaking in the beautiful waters of
Phang Nga Bay
demand, and their mahouts
were reduced to begging on
city streets for a living. Offering
elephant rides was an obvious
way to generate income and
was perceived by many as a
positive step toward securing
the survival of this national
symbol, since the elephants’
lowland forest habitat had
been largely destroyed.
However, recent research
has provided us with greater
knowledge of the intelligence
and emotions of these animals,
and animal welfare groups have
expressed serious concerns
about the ethics of training
and riding elephants, and of
forcing them to perform
elaborate shows for the
amusement of tourists.
There are many ways to
enjoy the landscape and wildlife
of Thailand without riding an
elephant, such as trekking,
kayaking, white-water rafting,
or taking a river cruise. If you
wish to make a positive
contribution to elephant
conservation, consider a visit
to the Elephant Nature Park
in northwest Thailand
(see p225), where you can
observe rescued elephants
(and a whole menagerie of
other animals), and spend
a day or a week as a
volunteer helper.
Trekking
Thailand has some ideal terrain
for hiking, from the precipitous
karst forests of Krabi and
Khao Sok in the south to the
undulating mountains around
Mae Hong Son and Loei in
the north.
Aside from the country’s
outstanding natural beauty,
it is the opportunity to visit
hill tribes that has caused the
trekking business to boom.
The novelty of encountering
hill tribespeople in elaborate
costumes undeniably adds
cultural interest to a trek.
However, over time, traditional
tribal values cannot but be
eroded by continued exposure
to tourists. Many villages close
to Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai,
Pai, and Mae Hong Son are
depressingly exploited.
Additionally, there is the issue
of trekkers feeling like voyeurs,
especially at cynical shows such
as the long-necked Padaung
(see p220). Try to establish a
rapport with tribespeople and
always ask their permission
before taking photos.
Be wary of Burmese border
areas, especially around Mae
Sariang, where there is a chance
of skirmishes between the
Burmese military and ethnic
armies fighting for inde-
pendence. Malaria is also a risk
around these parts, as it is in
Kanchanaburi. In general, the
health risks increase the farther
you travel away from the towns.
For nature-based treks, head
for Khao Yai National Park
(see pp188–9). Many treks also
include poling on a bamboo
raft, if the rivers are high
enough. Treks can last a week,
 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES & SPECIAL INTERESTS
Trekking through Thailand’s beautiful and varied forests
but most take place over two
to three nights and include
visits to several villages.
Be aware that scams are
commonplace; to avoid being
swindled, ask TAT for the list of
companies recognized by the
Professional Guide Association
of Chiang Mai or the Jungle
Tour Club of Northern Thailand,
of which Eagle House
and Mae Ping Riverside Tours
are both members.
All treks should be
led by at least two
competent guides
(who should speak
the tribal languages
and be aware of local
customs). Check that
the group doesn’t
exceed about eight
trekkers, that the trek
is registered with the Wildlife encounter at
police, and that Khao Yai National Park
transportation is not
by public buses. Useful tips
include lining backpacks with
plastic bags to keep damp
out; sleeping in dry clothes
(even if it means wearing wet
clothes by day); wearing a sun
hat and cream, long trousers to paying for a brief visit. Some
protect against leeches, insect
repellent, and worn-in hiking
boots or at least supportive
athletic shoes. Nights are cold
in the mountains, so take
warm layers: thermal tops and
leggings, and silk sleeping bags.
The best times to trek are
November to February and
early in the wet season, in
June and July. For eco-friendly
visitors, Siam Safari, The
Trekking Collective, The Wild
Lodge (see White-water Rafting
and Kayaking), and Phuket
Trekking Club have a good
reputation, and Friends of
Nature organizes genuinely
ecological treks.
Wildlife Watching
Unfortunately, Thailand’s
wildlife has been hunted
almost to extinction, so there
is little point in spending a few
days
in a hide in the hope
of seeing a wild tiger
or a bear. However,
the country has a
wide network of
national parks,
where some effort
has been made to
protect pockets of
natural beauty. Here,
visitors might well
see rare and colorful
birds, huge butterflies,
and foot-long centipedes. The
entrance fee to national
parks for foreigners has been
doubled to 400 baht, and while
this may be justified for a stay
of a few days, it is hardly worth
parks have camp sites, and
most have log-cabin-style
accommodation that can
be reserved through the
National Park, Wildlife,
and Plant Conservation
Department. The more
popular parks, such as Khao
Yai (see pp188–9), Khao Sok
(see p360), Phu Kradung (see
pp290–91), and Doi Inthanon
(see pp234–5), have well-marked
trails, but in less popular
parks, visitors should ask
 449
park rangers to lead them to
interesting features.
Boat Trips
Before the arrival of the
motor car, boats were the
only form of transportation
in Thailand apart from
walking. Low-lying areas
of the country, such as
the Central Plains, were
criss-crossed by canals that
enabled locals to visit friends
and do their shopping. These
days, floating markets are
strictly for tourists, where
visitors can enjoy the colorful
spectacle and bustle of boats
at places like Damnoen Saduak
(see p136).
Apart from the floating
markets, there are several
other opportunities for
sightseeing by boat. In
Bangkok, Chao Phraya Express
Boats offers short tours with
commentary on the main
riverside sights, such as the
Grand Palace and Wat Arun.
In the south, companies like
Sayan Tour organize half-day
and day trips in long-tail boats
around the limestone stacks
in Phangnga Bay, with the
option of canoeing for an
hour. In the north, long-tail
boats cruise on the Ping
River in Chiang Mai. Another
popular trip is along the Mae
Kok River from Tha Ton to
Chiang Rai, either on bamboo
rafts that take a couple of
days or on long-tail boats
that roar downriver in a few
hours. Some of these tours,
which can be arranged at the
jetty in Tha Ton, include a stop
at the Karen village of Ruammit
for visitors to take a quick
elephant ride.
The traditional long-tail boat, now popular
for tourist excursions
450  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Cycling
With cycling growing in
popularity worldwide, it is
no surprise that more and
more people consider touring
Thailand by bike, on a model
either brought from home
or rented locally. Not only
is cycling healthy and
environmentally sound, it
also guarantees meaningful
encounters with local people
along the way. Though traffic on
main roads can be dangerous to
negotiate, it is possible to put a
bike on a bus or train and head
for quieter rural areas. Mostly
the terrain is cyclist-friendly,
and several companies
organize guided rides along
country lanes.
Anyone considering a cycling
holiday would be advised to
consult www.thaicycling.com
and www.mrpumpy.net for
information on possible
itineraries. One of the most
popular routes in the country
follows the flow of the
Mekong River from Chiang
Khan to Nong Khai, or even
right round to Mukdahan.
The best time to cycle in
Thailand is from November to
February, when temperatures
are cooler, particularly in the
north; the worst is between
March and May, when pedalers
are guaranteed to end each day
dripping with sweat. Cycling in
the rainy season (June–
October) is worth considering,
since there is frequently cloud
Thailand’s best rock climbing, at Railay beach, near Krabi
cover, tropical storms tend
to pass over quickly, and the
landscapes are at their most
lush at this time.
See the directory (pp452–3)
for cycling tour operators.
Rock Climbing
Those looking for an activity
that gets the adrenalin flowing
will find that rock climbing is
hard to beat. Providing dramatic
views from limestone peaks at
the end of a climb, Thailand is
one of the world’s most popular
destinations for this sport.
The epicenter of rock
climbing in Thailand is around
Krabi, especially at Railay beach,
where several companies offer
half-day to three-day courses
for beginners and rent out
equipment to experienced
climbers; the more reliable
operators here include Tex
Rock Climbing, King Climbers,
and Hot Rock. More than 700
bolted routes in the region offer
climbs ranging from 5a to 8c
in terms of difficulty, graded
according to the French system.
For more details of rock
climbing and other activities in
this area, visit www.railay.com.
Ko Phi Phi has a similar lime-
stone terrain, and a few local
companies, like Spider Monkey,
offer instruction for beginners
at Ton Sai Tower or Hin Taek.
Rock climbing is also getting a
foothold in the north, where
Chiang Mai Rock Climbing
Adventures runs climbs on
more than 100 bolted routes at
Crazy Horse Buttress, near San
Kamphaeng, about 25 miles (40
km) east of Chiang Mai. These
routes range in difficulty from
easy to extremely challenging.
The large cave system of Tham Lot,
containing artifacts dating back 1,700 years
Caving
Though Thailand’s limestone
landscapes are peppered with
caves, few are set up for visitors
to explore, so caving remains an
activity largely for specialists.
However, one cave that has
been popularized is Tham Lot
(see p223), near Soppong, in the
northwest of the country. It
contains some coffins that date
back 1,700 years, and each
evening there is a spectacular
sight when hundreds of
thousands of swifts return to
nest in the cave. Cave Lodge
is an ideal base from which to
explore Tham Lot, and they can
even arrange kayaking trips that
pass right through the cave.
Bungee Jumping and
Ziplining
Visitors who fancy having their
feet bound and being thrown
off a platform 165 ft (50 m)
above the ground should head
to Jungle Bungy Jump, a
successful company operating
in popular tourist locations such
as Phuket, Pattaya, and Chiang
Mai. A certificate is issued on
completion of the jump.
 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES & SPECIAL INTERESTS
Ziplining is a popular activity
that lets you sweep through the
forest canopy on a steel cable
secured to a body harness. The
course’s rest stations are ideal
for enjoying the jungle’s sounds.
Horse Racing and Riding
Plenty of people enjoy a day
at the races in their homeland,
so why not try your luck in
tropical Thailand? It may be
difficult to decipher the form
card, but a keen eye on the
runners in the paddock might
just land a winner. As one of the
few forms of gambling allowed
in Thailand, horse racing attracts
a strong local following, and the
atmosphere is always vibrant.
Races are held on weekends in
Bangkok at the Royal Bangkok
Sports Club (see p121) and the
Royal Turf Club.
Air Sports
As if visitors to Chiang Mai
didn’t have enough activities
to keep them busy, a couple
more options, depending
on weather conditions, are
microlighting and hot-air
ballooning. Chiang Mai Sky
Adventure offers regular
take-offs from bases just
northeast of Chiang Mai
during the cool season, giving
the chance for a bird’s-eye
view of the Ping Valley and
some spectacular photos.
Parasailing over the heads of
sun-worshippers lining the beach
Cultural Study
Courses in meditation
can give a valuable
insight into Thai culture
and, if followed
diligently, also provide
an invaluable skill to
help cope with stress
in the modern world.
Participants are
required to dress in
white and adhere to
the fundamental vows
of Buddhism, which
include refraining from
killing, stealing, lying,
and eating after
midday. Practitioners
are also expected to be
up before dawn and to
plan their day around Learning to cook Thai food the Thai way
sessions of walking and
sitting meditation, as well as
abstaining from entertainment
(for example, no watching TV
or listening to music) and idle
chat (no mobile phones). Since
the Dharma (literally,
“Way of the Higher
Truths,” or code of
conduct) is given
for free, most
places suggest
that students make
a donation to cover
their lodging and food. Delicately carved subtler style at centers
For meditation
sessions in English and
longer, disciplined retreats,
contact the World Fellowship
of Buddhists or visit
www.dhammathai.org.
Visitors are welcome to join
the 10-day course that is run
by the International Dhamma
Hermitage at the beginning
of each month at Wat Suan
Mokkh, near Chaiya in the
south. Other options include
the Northern Insight
Meditation Center’s month-
long retreats at Wat Ram
Poeng in Chiang Mai, Wat
Mahathat in Bangkok, and
Wat Kow Tahm on Ko Pha
Ngan. Some locations have
facilities where women can
study, while others are only
for men.
Visitors also come to
Thailand to study traditional
Thai massage, a vigorous
combination of yoga,
reflexology, and acupressure.
 451
Courses typically tend to last
between a week and two
weeks and consist of theory,
demonstration, and practice,
leading to certification of
competence.
Popular training
in English is
conducted at
Wat Pho (see
pp96–7) in
Bangkok and
in Chiang Mai’s
vegetables including the Old
Medicine Hospital
and the Thai Massage School
of Chiang Mai.
The techniques of preparing
Thai food – including fruit
and vegetable carving – can
be learned at various hotels
and cooking schools, such as
the Blue Elephant restaurant
and cooking school with
branches in Bangkok and
Phuket, and Baipai Thai
Cooking School in Bangkok.
Reliable schools in the north
include the Chiang Mai Thai
Cookery School and Baan
Thai Cookery School. Students
can sign up for either a day
or several days, and a typical
day’s “study” includes a
shopping trip to the market,
a demonstration of how to
prepare a few dishes, followed
by practice, then the best
part – the eating – in which
students get to taste and savor
their own culinary creations.
452  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

DIRECTORY
Diving and Pattaya Yacht White-Water Trekking
Snorkeling Charters Rafting and
Kayaking Eagle House
Ocean Marina, Sattahip.
The Dive Academy 16 Chang Moi Kao,
Tel 08-7645-7771. Chiang Mai.
Bo Phut Beach, Siam Rivers
∑ pattayayacht Tel 0-5323-5387.
Ko Samui. 17 Ratchawithi Rd,
charters.com ∑ eaglehouse.com
Tel 09-2464-3264. Chiang Mai.
Phuket Sailing Tel 0-8951-5191-7. Friends of Nature
Dive Asia 20/28 Soi Suksan, Moo 4, 133/21 Ratchaprarop Rd,
∑ siamrivers.com
24 Karon Rd, Kata Beach, Tambon Rawai, Phuket. Bangkok.
Phuket. Tel 0-8990-9695-9 or Thai Adventure Map 4 E4–5.
0-8189-5182-6. Rafting Tel 0-2642-4426.
Tel 0-7633-0598.
∑ friendsofnature
∑ diveasia.com ∑ phuket-sailing.com 54/5 Moo 2, Soi 14,
93.com
South East Asia Tambol Tasala,
Ko Tao Dive Info Mae Ping Riverside
Liveaboards Chiang Mai.
Chuancheun Village, Tours
Pattanakarn 57, A10 The Royal Place, Tel 0-5385-0160. 101 Chiang Mai-
Bangkok. 96/68 Praphuketkhew Rd, ∑ activethailand.com Lamphun Rd,
Tel 0-8182-5960-7. Kathu, Phuket. Chiang Mai.
The Wild Lodge
Tel 0-7661-2655. Tel 0-5330-2121.
∑ diveinfo.net 666 Sukhumvit 24,
∑ seal-asia.com ∑ tours-chiangmai.
New Way Diving Bangkok. com
Yachtpro Tel 0-2261-4412.
Sairee Rd, Phuket Trekking Club
Adjacent to Yacht Haven
Ko Tao. ∑ thewildlodge.com 55/779–780 Villa
Marina, Phuket.
Tel 0-7745-6528. Daowroong Village,
Tel 0-7633-1615. Golf East Chaofah Rd,
Phi Phi Scuba ∑ sailing-thailand.com Tambon Vichit,
Ton Sai Bay, Ko Phi Phi. Laem Chabang Phuket.
Tel 0-7560-1148.
Water Sports International Tel 0-7637-7344.
∑ ppscuba.com Country Club ∑ phukettrekking
Phuket Fishing
club.com
Charters 106/8 Moo 4,
Santana Diving &
48/12 Mu 9, Beung, Siracha, Siam Safari
Canoeing
Chalong, Phuket. near Pattaya. 17/2 Soi Yodsanae,
273 Rat-U-Thit 200 Pi Rd, Chao Far Rd,
Tel 08-1370-8181. Tel 0-3837-2273.
Patong Beach, Chalong,
∑ phuketfishing ∑ laemchabang
Phuket. Phuket.
charters.com golf.com
Tel 0-7629-4220. Tel 0-7638-4456,
∑ santanaphuket.com Wahoo Fishing 0-7638-4777.
Lanna Golf Club ∑ siamsafari.com
Charters
Sea Dragon Dive Chotana Rd,
48/20 Mu 9, The Trekking
Center Chiang Mai.
Chalong, Phuket. Collective
5/51 Moo 7, Khao Lak. Tel 0-7628-1510. Tel 0-5322-1911. 3/5 Loy Kroh
Tel 0-7648-5420. Road Soi 1,
Red Mountain Golf
∑ seadragondive Canoeing Chiang Mai.
Course Tel 0-5320-8340.
center.com
Paddle Asia 119 Wijittsongkram Rd, ∑ trekking
Sailing 18/58 Thanon Kathu District, Phuket. collective.com
Rasdanusorn, T Rasada, Tel 0-7632-2000.
Gulf Charters Ban Kuku, Phuket. Wildlife
∑ redmountain
Thailand Tel 0-7624-1519. Watching
phuket.com
Ocean Marina, 167/5 ∑ paddleasia.com National Park,
Sukhumvit Rd, Sattahip. Thana City Golf and Wildlife, and Plant
Sea Canoe
Tel 0-3823-7752. Country Club Conservation
Thailand
Island View Resort, 100-100/1 Moo 4, Department
125/461 Moo 5,
61 Phaholyothin Rd,
Ao Salak Pet, Ko Chang. Baan Sapan Rd, Bang Na Trat Rd,
Chatuchak, Bangkok.
Tel 08-1813-8023. Muang Phuket. Km 14, Bangplee,
Tel 0-2561-0777,
∑ gulfcharters Tel 0-7652-8839/40. Samutprakarn. 0-2579-6666.
thailand.com ∑ seacanoe.net Tel 08-3304-4455. ∑ dnp.go.th
 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES & SPECIAL INTERESTS  453

DIRECTORY
Boat Trips Tex Rock Climbing Air Sports Thai Massage School
East Railay Beach, of Chiang Mai
Chao Phraya Chiang Mai Sky 203/6 Mae Jo Rd, Chiang
Express Boats Krabi. Adventure Mai. Tel 0-5385-4330.
78/24–29 Maharaj Rd, Tel 0-7563-1509. 190 Mu 3, ∑ tmcschool.com
Phra Nakhorn, T Nong Yhang, Sansai,
Wat Kow Tahm
Bangkok. Caving Chiang Mai.
Near Ban Tai,
Tel 0-2623-6001. Tel 0-5325-5588.
Ko Pha Ngan.
∑ chaophrayaexpress Cave Lodge ∑ skyadventures.info
Tel 08-3593-3597.
boat.com 15 Moo 1, ∑ kowtahm.com
Cultural Study
Sayan Tour Pang Mapha, Wat Mahathat
209 Phangnga Bus near Mae Hong Son. Baan Thai Cookery (Section Five)
Terminal, School Maharat Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-5361-7203.
Phangnga. 11 Rachadamnern Rd, Tel 0-2222-6011.
∑ cavelodge.com Soi 5, Chiang Mai.
Tel 0-7643-0348. World Fellowship of
∑ sayantour.com Tel 0-5335-7339.
Bungee Jumping Buddhists
∑ cookinthai.com
and Ziplining 616 Benjasiri Park, Soi
Cycling Baipai Thai Medhinivet, off
Jungle Bungy Cooking School Sukhumvit 24, Bangkok.
Bike & Travel
8/91 Ngam Wongwan Rd, Tel 0-2661-1284.
Prathum Thani. Jump
Soi 54, Ladyao,
Tel 0-2990-0274. 61/3 Wichitsongkram,
Chatuchak,
∑ cyclingthailand.com
Kathu, Phuket. Bangkok.
Click and Travel Tel 076-321-351. Tel 0-2561-1404.
158/42 Chiang ∑ phuketbungy.com ∑ baipai.com
Mai-Hod Rd,
Blue Elephant
Chiang Mai. Flight of the
233 South Sathorn Rd,
Tel 0-5328-1553. Gibbon Bangkok.
∑ clickandtravel
Mae Kampong Village, Tel 0-2673-9353.
online.com 96 Krabi Rd, Phuket.
Chiang Mai.
Spice Roads Tel 0-7635-4355.
Tel 0-5301-0660.
14/1-B Soi Promsri 2, ∑ blueelephant.co.th
Khao Khiao Safari Park,
Sukhumvit Soi 39, Chiang Mai Thai
Bangkok. Chonburi.
Cookery School
Tel 0-2381-7490. Tel 08-9833-5503. 47/2 Moon Muang Rd
∑ spiceroads.com ∑ treetopasia.com Chiang Mai. Tel 0-5320-
6388. ∑ thaicookery
Rock Climbing Flying Hanuman school.com
Soi Nam Tok Kathu,
Chiang Mai Rock International
Climbing Adventures Wichitsongkram Rd, Dhamma Hermitage
55/3 Ratchapakinai Rd, Phuket. Wat Suan Mokkh, Chaiya,
Chiang Mai. Tel 0-7632-3264. Surat Thani.
Tel 0-5320-7102. Tel 0-7743-1552.
∑ flyinghanuman.com
∑ thailandclimbing. ∑ suanmokkh-idh.org
com Horse Racing Northern Insight
Hot Rock and Riding Meditation Center
245 Moo 5, Sai Tai, Krabi. Wat Ram Poeng, Canal Rd,
Tel 0-7566-2245, Phuket Riding Club Chiang Mai.
085-641-9842. 95 Viset Rd, Tel 0-5327-8620.
∑ railayadventure.com Rawai, Maung, ∑ palikanon.com/
vipassana/tapotaram/
King Climbers Phuket.
tapotaram.htm
Railay Beach, Tel 0-7628-8213.
near Krabi. Old Medicine
Tel 0-7562-2096. Royal Turf Club Hospital
Phitsanulok Rd, 238/8 Wualai Rd,
Spider Monkey Chiang Mai.
Ton Sai Village, Dusit, Bangkok.
Tel 0-5320-1663.
Ko Phi Phi Don. Tel 0-2628-1810. ∑ thaimassageschool.
Tel 0-7581-9384. ∑ rtcot.com ac.th
454  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Spa Breaks in Thailand and lush environment as much

as it is to have a spa experience.
Thailand has thousands of spas offering every kind of The fact that these resorts are
treatment possible, and its sultry temperatures, idyllic often set in remote locations
landscapes, and sense of tranquility make it an ideal and may be accessible only
by speedboat (such as the
destination for a spa break. Traditional Thai architecture, Rayavadee Spa near Krabi) or
serene Zen-minimalist decor, and enchanting gardens traditional long-tail boat (the
blend with the Thai people’s gentle and giving nature to Four Seasons Tented Camp at
make a truly memorable spa experience. Massage has been the Golden Triangle) adds to the
practiced in Thailand for some 2,500 years, and while it’s allure. The spas at these resorts
possible to have a cheap shoulder rub in simple backstreet offer longer programs of daily
treatments for those who
shop fronts, nothing beats some serious pampering at a really want to unwind.
luxury resort or an indulgent afternoon at a day spa.
Destination Spas
Revitalizing the mind, body, and
spirit is the central purpose of
destination spas, with guests
rarely leaving the resort after
checking in. Thailand’s first
and best, the Chiva-Som
International Health Resort,
offers more than 150 treatments
focused on relaxation and
rejuvenation, stress relief,
detoxification, and weight loss.
Guests undergo an extensive
health consultation upon arrival,
and a program is created to
match their goals. There is a
three-night minimum stay,
Relaxing in the peaceful garden environment of the Anantara Resort & Spa though most guests stay a
week or more, and nutritious
Hotel & Resort Spas The Anantara resorts offer spa cuisine, activities, and
Travelers tend to visit a hotel three-day and seven-day treatments are included in
or resort spa as part of a wider programs that include between the rate. Another famous
holiday, with the main focus four and ten treatments. destination spa is the Kamalaya
being a beach or cultural Wellness Sanctuary &
experience. However, Thailand’s Holistic Spa in Ko Samui.
luxury five-star hotels and Spa Retreats Because spa resorts tend
resorts are home to some of Thailand has a number of to provide an array of non-
the world’s very best spas, luxury resorts situated in truly spa activities – from golf
offering a wide range of breathtaking settings. Visitors to white-water rafting and
professional, unique, and looking for an intimate getaway mountain climbing – signature
blissful treatments. on a deserted white-sand
The greatest concentration beach skirted by palm trees
of spas is on the islands of should head to the Six Senses
Phuket and Ko Samui, in the Hideaway Hua Hin, south of
beach resort towns of Hua Hua Hin, or the Aleenta Resort
Hin and Cha-am, and in the & Spa Phang Nga. Those who
northern Chiang Mai area. like the sound of a plush villa
The country’s foremost spa with a private infinity pool
resorts include the Four set among tropical jungle
Seasons Resort Koh Samui, overlooking lush rice fields –
the Banyan Tree Spa Phuket, or, more dramatically, the
Six Senses Yao Noi, and the Mekong River across to
Anantara Resort & Spa in Burma – should book at the
Hua Hin and Ko Samui. Four Seasons Chiang Mai
Spa treatments are generally or the Four Seasons Tented
an added extra, but many Camp at the Golden Triangle.
resorts are now increasingly The aim of staying here is to A poultice massage at Banyan Tree Spa
offering all-inclusive packages. experience the local culture Phuket, a popular spa resort
 S PA B R E A K S I N T H A I L A N D  455

treatments at destination spas

cater for travelers who may be
suffering some after-effects.
The signature treatment at
the Four Seasons Tented
Camp, for instance, is where
poultices filled with camphor,
lime, and lemongrass are used
to massage the body and inner
thighs – the perfect antidote
for aching muscles.

Day Spas
All over Thailand, travelers can
find day spas – stand-alone
operations not attached to
resorts or hotels – and many
hotels also offer treatments to
non-guests on a per-session
basis. Most day spas are in
Bangkok and include the
stylish Oasis Spa and Thann
Sanctuary, the Harnn Heritage
Spa, and Health Land. Chiang
Mai also has excellent day spas.
Spa Treatments
Despite Thailand’s long history
of therapeutic massage and
natural healing – including Thai
massage, medicinal herbs, and
natural springs – the country
Working out stress through yoga at Chiva-Som International Health Resort
is at the cutting edge of
spa offerings. Expect to see
anything and everything
on a spa menu, from Tropical
Sprinkles and Tranquility Mists
at the Banyan Tree Spa Phuket,
to their famous four-hand
Harmony Banyan treatment,
where two therapists work on
you at once. Other spas, such
as the Six Senses Spa and
Anantara Spas, also offer
versions of this indulgent
treatment. While some
treatments are indigenous
to Thailand – traditional
Thai massage, for example –
others, such as hydrotherapy,
thalassotherapy, aromatherapy,
and Ayurvedic treatments,
can be found all over the
world. Many spas have also
developed their own signature
treatments. The Four Seasons
Spas have an array of sensual
offerings connected to the
cycles of the moon, with
treatments that should be
experienced only during
certain lunar phases.

DIRECTORY
Hotel & Resort Spas Six Senses Yao Noi
Yao Noi Island,
Anantara Resort & Phang Nga Bay.
Spa Hua Hin Tel 0-7641-8500.
43/1 Phetkasem Beach ∑ sixsenses.com
Rd, Hua Hin.
Spa Retreats
Tel 0-3252-0250.
∑ anantara.com
Aleenta Resort & Spa
Anantara Resort & Phang Nga
33 Moo 5, T Khokkloy,
Spa Koh Samui
Phang Nga.
99/9 Moo 1, Bo Phut Bay,
Tel 0-7658-0333.
Ko Samui. Tel 0-7742- ∑ aleenta.com
8300. ∑ anantara.com
Six Senses Hideaway
Banyan Tree Spa Hua Hin
Phuket 9/22 Moo 5, Paknampran
33 Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Beach, Pranburi.
Tel 0-3263-2111.
Rd, Cherngtalay, Phuket.
Tel 0-7632-4374. ∑ sixsenses.com/
hideaway-huahin
∑ banyantreespa.com
Four Seasons
Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai
Koh Samui
Mae Rim-Old Samoeng
219 Moo 5, Angthong, Ko Rd, Mae Rim, Chiang Mai.
Samui. Tel 0-7724-3000. Tel 0-5329-8181.
∑ fourseasons.com ∑ fourseasons.com
Four Seasons Tented Day Spas
Camp at the Golden
Triangle Harnn Heritage Spa
49 Moo 1, Chaeng Saen Siam Paragon, 991 Silom
Rd, Chaeng Saen, Chiang Rd, 4th Floor, Bangkok.
Rai. Tel 0-5391-0200. Tel 0-2610-9715-6.
∑ fourseasons.com
Health Land
Rayavadee Spa 120 Sathorn Rd, Bangkok.
214 Moo 2, Tambol Tel 0-2637-8883.
Ao-Nang, Amphur
Muang, Krabi. Oasis Spa
Tel 0-7562-0740-3. 88 Soi Sukhumvit, 51
∑ rayavadee.com Klongton Nua, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2662-6171.
Destination Spas
Thann Sanctuary
Chiva-Som Gaysorn Plaza, 4th floor,
International Health Ploenchit Rd, Bangkok.
Resort Tel 0-2658-0550.
73/4 Petchkasem Rd, Hua
Hin. Tel 0-3253-6536.
∑ chivasom.com
Kamalaya Wellness
Sanctuary &
Holistic Spa
102/9 Moo 3, Laem Set
Rd, Na-Muang, Ko Samui.
Tel 0-7742-9800.
∑ kamalaya.com
 SURVIVAL
GUIDE

Practical Information 458–469

Travel Information 472–481
458  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Thailand caters well to its growing number
of tourists. The 12 million people who visit
each year find one of the biggest and best-
organized tourist industries in Asia. The head-
quarters of the helpful Tourism Authority of
Thailand (TAT) is in Bangkok, and there are
offices across the country and several overseas
branches. The relevant address and telephone
number is given for each town and sight
throughout this guide. The tourist industry has
developed so rapidly that the adventurous
traveler is no longer restricted to organized
tours or major tourist destinations such as
Bangkok and Phuket – the whole country is
accessible to independent travelers. There are
many reputable travel agencies all over
Thailand. They offer advice, book flights and
accommodations, and organize sightseeing
tours. Some pre-travel planning is necessary
to avoid the worst of the rainy season and
holiday periods such as the Chinese New
Year (see pp52–5).

When to Go
Thailand’s weather can be
tempestuous, with year-round
humidity, rocketing tempera-
tures, and torrential rainstorms.
However, the optimum time to
visit the country is during the
cooler, drier months from
November to February. It is no
coincidence that this is the peak
tourist season, when sights may
get crowded. The hot season,
from March to May, can be
unbearable, while the rainy
season, which generally lasts
from June to October, is the least
predictable of the three periods.
Climate and rainfall charts can
be found on pages 52–5.
Advance Booking
Bangkok is a popular launching
point for other Southeast Asian
destinations, so it is necessary to
book airline tickets well in
advance. This is especially true
during Thailand’s peak tourist
season, November to February,
when flights and hotels are heavily
booked. If you plan to travel
during this period, it is wise to
make arrangements at least three
to six months prior to departure.
Visas and Passports
Many nationalities, including
the citizens of most European
countries, Australia, and the US,
can enter Thailand for up to 30
days without a pre-arranged visa.
Proof of adequate funds for the
duration of a visitor’s stay (10,000
baht per person or 20,000 baht
per family) can be requested
upon arrival – a credit card is
The railway market stalls at Maeklong in Samut Songkhram, a short distance from Bangkok
Tourists relaxing in the sun at Patong beach, Phuket
sufficient proof of this. Also be
aware that certain visas have
minimum fund requirements –
check with your local Thai
embassy before traveling for
current information. Proof of a
confirmed return flight or other
on-going travel arrangements
might also be required, although
this is rare. The 30-day period is
extendible for a maximum of 10
days. Nationals of several smaller
European countries must obtain
a visa before traveling. For those
wishing to stay longer, a 60-day
tourist visa (extendable by 30 days
at an immigration office) can be
arranged from a Thai embassy
or consulate prior to arrival in
Thailand. This usually takes two
to three working days to process,
but may take longer during
busy periods.
A 90-day nonimmigrant visa
must be applied for in your home
country and requires a letter of
verification from a Thai source
giving a valid reason, such as
business or study, for spending
three months in Thailand. This
visa is slightly more expensive
than the 60-day tourist visa.
With all visas, entry into
Thailand must occur within
90 days of issue. Visa extensions
are at the discretion of the
Immigration Department in
Bangkok or any other immigra-
tion office in Thailand. Overstaying
a visa carries a fine of 500 baht
per day and can result in serious
penalties. Single and multiple
re-entry visas can be obtained
relatively easily, allowing the
visitor to leave the country and
return within 60 days. These can
be applied for at the Immigration
Department in Bangkok. Strictly
speaking, travelers entering
Thailand should have at least
six months left on their passport.
It is best to confirm all such
details with a Thai embassy
or consulate before traveling.
Crossing the border into
neighboring countries generally
depends on the current political
situation, (see p464) so it is wise to
check prior to travel. A 24-hour
visa for Myanmar, for a stay in

the town over the border, costs
500 baht to the Myanmar
immigration. The quickest way
to obtain a 30-day tourist visa for
Laos is to apply for it at a travel
agency in major cities such as
Bangkok or Chiang Mai. Visitors
to Cambodia can obtain a 30-day
tourist visa free of charge upon
arrival at Phnom Penh airport.
Travel Safety Advice
Visitors can get up-to-date
travel safety information from
the Foreign and Commonwealth
Office in the UK, the State
Department in the US, and the
Department of Foreign Affairs
and Trade in Australia.
Customs Information
Customs regulations in Thailand
are standard. During an inbound
flight you will be given a customs
form that must be filled in and
handed over at the customs desk
after claiming your baggage. Thai
customs restrictions for goods
carried into the country are 200
cigarettes and/or one liter of
wine or spirits. For complete
details about export declarations,
duty payments, and VAT refunds
visit www.customs.go.th.
A car or motorbike can be
brought into the country for
touring purposes for up to six
months, but this requires prior
arrange-ment through the
Thai embassy in your home
country. The carrying of
drugs (see p464), fire-
arms, or pornography
is strictly prohibited.
There are no restric-
tions on the maximum
amount of money an
individual may bring
into the country,
however there are
sometimes minimum
require-ments (see Visas
and Passports). It is
illegal to leave Thailand
with more than 50,000
baht without the
correct authorization.
Antiques and Buddha
images are not allowed
out of Thailand with-
out authorization. If you
wish to export such Local travel agency offering tourist information
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
items you must first contact the
Fine Arts Department of the
National Museum in Bangkok at
least five days before the date of
shipment and fill in a form accom-
panied by two frontal photographs
of the object being purchased
(no more than five pieces to be
shown in any one photograph).
Contemporary “works of art,” such
as paintings bought in markets,
can be taken out of the country
without permission.
Tourist Information
The many branches of the
Tourism Authority of Thailand
(TAT) are very helpful, offering
plenty of practical and back-
ground information on sights
and festivals, as well as maps,
brochures, mini-guides, and
posters. They also have a useful
list of reputable travel agents and
hotels. There is a small informa-
tion booth in Suvarnabhumi
airport. Many of the provincial
capitals in Thailand have a TAT
office (listed throughout this
guide), as do some overseas
countries. The TAT website is also
a useful source of information.
Admission Prices
Admission charges to sights in
Thailand are usually nominal,
ranging between 10 and 50 baht
for government-run establish-
ments. National parks, however,
charge either 200 or 400 baht
per person (children are usually
admitted at half price). Private
museums are generally either
free or charge up to 200 baht.
Occasionally, foreigners may be
 459
DIRECTORY
Immigration Department
507 Soi Suanphlu, Sathorn Tai
Rd, Bangkok. Tel 0-2287-3101.
∑ immigration.go.th
Fine Arts Department
National Museum, 1 Na Phra
That Rd, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok.
Tel 0- 2628-5033. ∑ national
museumfineart.go.th
TAT Headquarters
1600 New Phetburi Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 1672 or 0-2250-5500.
∑ tourismthailand.org
Embassies
Cambodia
518/4 Pracha Uthit Rd, Soi
Ramkamhaeng 39, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2957-5851 (then dial 100).
Canada
15th Floor, Abdulrahim Place,
990 Rama 4 Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2636-0540.
Malaysia
33–35 South Sathorn Rd,
Bangkok. Tel 0-2629-6800.
Myanmar (Burma)
132 Sathorn Nua Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2234-4698, 0-2233-2237.
United Kingdom
14 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd,
Bangkok. Tel 0-2305-8333.
United States
95 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd,
Bangkok. Tel 0-2205-4000.
∑ bangkok.usembassy.gov
Travel Safety Advice
Australia
Department of Foreign Affairs
and Trade. ∑ dfat.gov.au/
smartraveller.gov.au/
United Kingdom
Foreign and Commonwealth
Office. ∑ gov.uk/foreign-
travel-advice
United States
US Department of State.
∑ travel.state.gov/
charged a higher admission
price than locals on the assump-
tion that they earn more than
most Thais. Under Thai law this
is not totally legal, but to prevent
embarrassment it is usually best
to pay the extra amount. A few
major tourist wats charge a set
fee; in others there is usually
a box for donations.
460  sur vival guide

Opening Hours Traveling with Children Centers of Worship

Most sights can be visited Children are always welcome for Visitors
throughout the year, though in Thailand. The larger hotels There are many facilities for
access to some of the southern have baby-sitting services, visitors to undertake Buddhist
islands may be and TAT offers advice on studies (see p451). The Inter-
limited in the rainy attractions for kids. Hats national Buddhist Meditation
season. In general, and sunblock are a must Center has details of English-
major tourist for children out in language courses at wats in and
attractions open at the sun. There are around Bangkok. Most other
8am or 9am and plenty of fast-food religious denominations are
close any time outlets and represented in Thailand – listed
between 3:30pm Typical entrance tickets to adaptable chefs below are religious centers in
and 6pm. A few major historical sites who will gladly Bangkok offering services in
also shut for lunch provide a choice English. Christ Church holds
between noon and 1pm. Most of suitable alternatives to Anglican and Episcopalian
major sights are open daily, but spicy meals. services. The International Church
some national museums close has services on Sundays, as does
for public holidays and on the Holy Redeemer Catholic
Mondays and Tuesdays. Senior Travelers Church. The Jewish Association of
Department stores are usually Older citizens of Thailand are Thailand has occasional services
open daily, 10am–9pm, and treated with great respect, at the Jewish Community
smaller shops are open 8am– as are senior citizens from Center. The Haroon Mosque
9pm. Commercial offices open other countries. Unfortunately, has services for Muslims.
8am–noon and 1–5pm Monday this higher status does not
to Friday. Government offices translate into any discounts
are open 8:30am–noon and or savings. Language
1–4:30pm Monday to Friday. It is always useful to learn a few
During the Chinese New Year, Thai phrases (see pp508–11).
many businesses close, Gay and Lesbian Many local people in tourist
especially in the south. For Travelers towns speak some English,
banking hours, see page 468. On the whole Thai society takes as do most hotel receptionists.
a fairly relaxed attitude to Sight and road names in these
homosexuality. A number of areas are transliterated, and
What to Take bars, clubs, and other venues menus are often in English as
As the climate in Thailand cater exclusively to a gay and well as in Thai. Prices and road
is generally hot and humid, lesbian crowd. However, at numbers are generally in Arabic
it is advisable to dress in cool, heart, Thai society is still quite numerals. Transliterated
nonrestricting clothes made conservative, and public spellings vary in different maps
from natural fibers. A sweater displays of affection by both and guides, and on signs.
may be needed in northern and homosexuals and heterosexuals Note that “j” and “ch” are
northeastern regions during the are frowned upon. interchangeable, as are “d”
cool season. The rainy season Prominent gay and lesbian and “t.” The letters “ph” (e.g. as
brings sudden downpours when scenes can be found in in Phuket) are pronounced “p,”
a light raincoat is handy. If visiting Bangkok, Pattaya, and Phuket, never “f.” Likewise, the “h” in “th”
temples, appropriate dress is and to a lesser extent in Chiang is always silent (e.g. Thailand).
required (see p463), as is easily Mai. General information for gay
removable footwear. A first-aid and lesbian visitors is available
kit is also useful (see p466). online at Dragoncastle, and Thai Time Systems
both this website and Utopia and Calendar
are excellent for details of gay Bangkok time is seven hours
Travelers with and lesbian related activities ahead of Greenwich Mean
Special Needs and events in Thailand. Time (GMT), 12 hours ahead
There are few facilities for
disabled travelers in Thailand.
Sidewalks can be uneven and
pedestrian bridges are often
accessed only by steep steps.
Wheelchair access is limited to
the top-class hotels. The easiest
way to travel is to book an
organized tour (see p475) or
to contact the Association
of Physically Handicapped
People for further information. Transliterated road sign
 p r a c t i c a l i n f o r m at i o n  461

of Eastern Standard Time,

and 15 hours ahead of Pacific
Standard Time (6, 11, and
14 hours ahead, respectively,
during Daylight Saving Hours).
Although the standard clock
and 24-hour clock are used and
widely understood, Thailand
also has its own unique system.
Thais divide the day into four
segments of six hours each.
For example, 7am for us is
1am for Thais.
Two calendars are used in
Thailand: the Gregorian
(Western) and the Buddhist
calendars. The Buddhist Era (BE)
starts 543 years before the
Gregorian era. To convert from
the Gregorian calendar to the
Buddhist calendar, add 543
years. For example, AD 1957
is the equivalent of 2500 BE.
Conversion Chart
US Standard to Metric
1 inch = 2.54 centimeters
1 foot = 30 centimeters
1 mile = 1.6 kilometers
1 ounce = 28 grams
1 pound = 454 grams
1 US quart = 0.947 liter
1 US gallon = 3.6 liters
Metric to US Standard
1 centimeter = 0.4 inch
1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches
1 kilometer = 0.6 mile
1 gram = 0.04 ounce
1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
1 liter = 1.1 US quarts
Electricity
The electric current through-
out Thailand is 220 volts AC,
50 cycles. Dual-prong rounded
plugs as well as flat-pin plugs
can be used. Major hotels also
have 110-volt outlets for electric
razors. Adaptors and power-
surge cables (for laptops) are
sold in department stores and
electrical stores.
In smaller towns, especially
during the rainy season, there
can be power failures and
flashlights can be useful.
Responsible Travel
Attitudes towards environmental
issues are slowly beginning to
change in Thailand. The
authorities are actively promoting
awareness of the need for
conservation, from prohibiting
locals fishing with dynamite and
drag-netting coral reefs, to
encouraging tourists to “leave
nothing but your footprints”.
Ecologically aware dive
A range of plugs and adaptors
that can be used in Thailand
companies forbid visitors to
take anything away, even a
seashell, and the use of plastic
bags and plastic water bottles
in national parks, where they
might be abandoned, is
increasingly discouraged.
Open World, an ecological
tour operator, conducts culture,
nature, and conservation tours
throughout Thailand, which
include a tiger conservation
program, flora and fauna and
birdwatching tours. The
Thailand Environment Institute
website has information about
environmental projects and the
conservation of natural
resources in Thailand.
Set against all this good
work, visitors should be aware
that in some areas there are still
environmentally destructive
shrimp farms, the clearing
of natural forest for palm oil
plantations, and the farming
of tigers in captivity for their
body parts under the guise
of “tiger zoos”.

DIRECTORY
Travelers with Centers of Worship International Responsible
Special Needs Buddhist Meditation Travel
Christ Church Center
Association of 11 Covent Rd, Bangkok. Wat Mahathat, 3 Maharaj Open World
Physically Tel 0-2234-3634. Rd, Bangkok. International Travel
Handicapped ∑ christchurch Tel 0-2623-6326. Service
People bangkok.org 89/14–15 Phahonyothin
73/7-8 Tivanond Rd, International Church
Haroon Mosque 54/1, Saimai, Bangkok.
Talad Kwan, 61/2 Soi Saen Sabai,
25 Charoen Krung 36 Rd, Sukhumvit 36, Bangkok. Tel 0-2974-3867.
Nonthaburi. ∑ openworldthailand.
Chinatown, Bangkok. Tel 0-2258-5821.
Tel 0-2951-0445. com
Tel 0-2630-9435. ∑ icbangkok.org
Gay and Lesbian Holy Redeemer Jewish Community Thailand
Travelers Catholic Church Center Environment Institute
123/19 Soi Ruam Rudi, 5 121 Soi Sainamtip 2, Soi 16/151 Muang Thong
Dragoncastle Thani, Bond Rd, Pakkred,
Witthayu (Wireless) Rd, 22 Sukhumvit Rd,
∑ dragoncastle.net
Bangkok. Tel 0-2256-6305. Bangkok. Nonthaburi.
Utopia ∑ holyredeemer Tel 0-2663-0244. Tel 0-2503-3333.
∑ utopia-asia.com bangkok.net ∑ jewishthailand.com ∑ tei.or.th
462  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Etiquette
It is not by accident that Thailand is often referred to as
“the land of smiles.” The Thais are exceptionally friendly and
helpful people, and getting along with them is easy – simply
smile wide and laugh a lot. Being Buddhists, they are an
amazingly tolerant people. Avoiding offensive behavior can
generally be achieved through simple courtesy and common
sense. A few taboos do exist, though, mostly with regard to
the monarchy and Buddhism. Visitors should be particularly
King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit
careful to behave respectfully at wats and in front of any
Buddha image. Confrontation is also considered extremely Royalty
rude, and Thais will bend over backward to avoid arguments The royal family is the most
of any sort. Losing your temper or shouting, whatever the revered institution in Thailand.
situation, is seen as an embarrassing loss of face. Criticizing or defaming it in any
way can be considered lèse-
majesté. Not only could this mean
Thais use first names to address a jail sentence, but Thai people
people, even in formal situations. will nearly always be deeply
The polite form of address is the offended. Coins, bills, and stamps
gender-neutral title Khun, followed bear the images of kings and
by the first name or nickname. therefore should not be treated
Every Thai person has a nickname, lightly. Similarly, you cannot
usually a one- or two-syllable photograph certain sacred
name with a simple meaning, such sights connected to royalty,
as Moo (pig) or Koong (shrimp). such as the bot of Wat Phra Kaeo,
which houses the highly revered
Emerald Buddha image.
Body Language
The head is considered a sacred
part of the body by Thais. Never National Anthems
touch someone’s head, not even The royal anthem is played
that of a child. The feet are seen twice a day, at 8am and 6pm,
Two Thais addressing each other with a as the lowliest part of the body at Skytrain stations and on the
wai, the traditional greeting and to point your feet toward Metro. At these times it is polite
someone or rest them on a to stop whatever you are doing
Greeting People table is considered rude. When and stand still. In theaters, the
The Thai greeting is known as sitting on the floor, especially royal anthem is played before
the wai and consists of the palms inside a temple, tuck your legs all performances. When it is
being pressed together and away behind you or to the side playing the audience stands
lifted towards the chin. The wai and try not to step over people in silent respect to a portrait
evolved from an ancient greeting sitting around you; allow them of the king on the screen.
used to show that neither party time to move out of your way. A different Thai folk tune is
was carrying weapons. The wai
is layered with intricacies of class,
gender, and age: each of these
dictates a certain height at
which the two hands must be
held. The inferior party initiates
the wai and holds it higher and
for longer than the superior,
who returns it according to his
or her social standing. Non-Thais
are not expected to be familiar
with these complexities, and
the easiest method is simply
to mirror whatever greeting
you receive. As a general rule
of thumb, however, you should
not wai children or workers
such as waiters, waitresses,
and street vendors. Devotees kneeling before a Buddha, their feet facing away from the image

A man offering food to a line of monks on the daily alms round
played on radio and TV on
behalf of the National Council
for Peace and Order.
Monks
The monkhood (sangha) is a
respected institution that
comes just below royalty in the
social hierarchy. Most taboos in
dealing with monks concern
women: it is prohibited for a
monk to touch a woman or for
him to receive anything directly
from her. Therefore, when
traveling by public
transportation, women should
avoid sitting near or next to a
monk. If she has to offer
anything to a monk she should
either use a middleman or
place the item nearby for him
to pick up. These rules are
confined to monks and do not
apply to nuns.
It is not forbidden for people
to talk to monks – many are
eager to try out their English.
However, monks never
return wais.
Etiquette
at Wats
As in churches and
other houses of
“No shoes” sign outside Wat
worship, a certain Phra Kaeo, Bangkok
decorum should be
observed when
entering the grounds of any
wat. Temples are calm, quiet
places, so try to avoid disturbing doing it – even in resorts
the peace. Dress should be
clean, respectable, and
unrevealing (strictly speaking,
the upper arms and legs down
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
to mid-calf should be covered).
Shoes should be removed when
entering any temple building.
Step over, not on, the thresholds
of wat buildings as Thais believe
that one of the nine spirits that
inhabit buildings lives in
the threshold.
All Buddha images are sacred
no matter how small, ruined, or
neglected, and you must never
sit with your feet pointing
toward them.
Some areas of a temple may
be off limits for women – there
is usually a sign indicating
such areas.
Suitable Dress
Because the Thais are a modest
people, clothing should be
kept respectable whether you
are in the city or in the country.
Women especially should take
care not to wear revealing
skirts, shorts, or skimpy tops.
In formal settings and
restaurants you will rarely see
Thai women with
bare shoulders;
sleeveless
dresses or tops
are considered
too revealing
for such
situations.
Topless
sunbathing
is frowned upon greatly –
regardless of whether others are
dominated by Western tourists.
Most Thais find the practice
embarrassing and many
of them find it offensive.
 463
Communicating
Bargaining is common
throughout Thailand (see p434).
Though everyone develops a
personal technique – whether
it involves smiling or remaining
poker-faced – it is important not
to get too tough or too mean.
Likewise, be patient with
receptionists, waitresses, and
others whom you may deal with.
In general, you should avoid
raising your voice or becoming
obviously irritable – Thais learn
in childhood always to speak
softly and avoid direct conflict.
Foreigners who may be used
to getting results if they show
impatience are likely to find
Thais ignoring them rather
than.attempting to continue
communicating with them.
Tourists bargaining with vendors on the
platform of Hua Hin Station
Tipping
Traditionally, tipping is not
common practice in Thailand,
though in Westernized
establishments it is fast
becoming so. Taxi drivers expect
tips – as a rule you should
round up the fare to the nearest
ten baht. Porters, hairdressers,
and barbers also often expect
tips. A service charge of ten
percent is common on up-scale
restaurant and hotel bills, even if
they also charge government
tax (see p401 and p413).
Smoking
Smoking is prohibited in all
public areas such as theaters,
department stores, government
buildings, and on all public
transport systems. It is also
banned in restaurants (except
on terraces), nightclubs, and
pubs. Fines for smoking in
public places can be hefty,
usually 2,000 baht.
464  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Personal Security and Health
Thailand is a fairly safe country, and simple health and
safety precautions keep the vast majority of travelers out
of trouble. For instance, ignore hustlers, keep away from
troubled border areas, take care of valuables, and avoid
staying or eating in unsanitary conditions. The infrastructure
of emergency services for both health and crime is efficient
throughout Bangkok and provincial capitals. As a rule of
thumb, the more remote the area, the higher the health risk
and the less support available in the event of any mishap.
The main hospitals in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, the main resorts,
and other large cities have modern equipment and well-
trained doctors, many of whom speak some English.
In an Emergency General Precautions
There are no national emergency Despite its size, Bangkok is
telephone lines except for relatively safe. Crime and violence
ambulances, and operators do do exist, but most travelers are
not speak English. For English- untouched by it. Discretion and
speaking help, call the Tourist sobriety are the best means of
Assistance Center, which will avoiding problems. Be alert at
contact the appropriate service tourist sights and bus and train
for you. Lines are open from stations, where hustlers and
8am to midnight, after which pickpockets occasionally
you will have to rely on English- operate: scam artists outside
speaking hotel staff. During the Grand Palace (see pp84–5)
office hours, TAT (see p459) direct tourists to pricier, less
may also be able to help. impressive sights. Do not flash
The Metropolitan Mobile Police large amounts of cash or leave
cover general emergencies in your luggage unattended. If you
Bangkok. All Bangkok’s hospitals are leaving valuables in a hotel
have 24-hour accident and safe, make sure to get a receipt,
emergency departments. and do not let credit cards out
of your sight when
paying for shopping.
The drugging, then
robbing, of tourists on
long-distance trains and
buses has occurred, so
politely decline food or
drink from strangers.
Fire engine Thailand is an excellent
place to buy gems
(see p438), but do not
be tempted into buying
large quantities to sell
back at home unless
you are familiar with the
market and its pitfalls.
Extra care is necessary
Ambulance in more remote areas
of the country where
locals are less
accustomed to tourists
and you are more likely
to stand out. Care
should also be taken in
poorer parts of cities,
particularly at night,
Police car or if traveling alone.
Tourist policeman wearing a beret, and an
ordinary officer
Drugs
Thai law prohibits the sale or
purchase of opium, heroin, or
marijuana. Charges for posses-
sion, smuggling, or dealing drugs
can lead to a 2–15-year jail
sentence or, in extreme cases,
the death sentence. Border areas
in the north attract drug runners.
Be wary of strangers in these
areas, and do not leave baggage
unattended, or offer to check in a
stranger’s suitcase at airports.
Danger Spots
Border areas are sometimes
precarious places. Changing
political conditions, tribal
skirmishes, and the haziness of
border lines have made a few
areas of Thailand dangerous.
There are sporadic clashes
on the Myanmar (Burmese) and
Cambodian borders, so it is best
to avoid traveling alone on
remote roads in those areas.
In the three Deep South
provinces of Narathiwat, Pattani,
and Yala, the militant Malay-
Muslim group, PULO (Pattani
United Liberation Organization)
represents a real danger, and
has made travel in this region
extremely difficult. Again,
common sense should prevail
and it is wise to stay away from
the most remote border areas.
Women Travelers
Female travelers are unlikely to
be harassed in Thailand. Bangkok
itself is not dangerous for
women; hotels are safe, and taxis
are readily available. If traveling
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  465

alone it is a good idea to keep in DIRECTORY

touch with someone in Bangkok
and let them know where you Emergency Numbers
are going and for how long. Note
Metropolitan Mobile Police
that Thais perceive lone travelers
Tel 191.
as people to be pitied, and may
offer to accompany you without Tourist Assistance Center
any ulterior motive. Tel 1155 (Bangkok).
Logo of the Thai Red Cross Society, part
of Chulalongkorn University Tourist Police
Tourist Police
Medical Facilities Bangkok
There are tourist police stations Tel 0-2356-0582/3/4 or 1155.
in the main tourist cities. Tourist Medical insurance is advisable
police officers all speak some when traveling in Thailand. Chiang Mai
Tel 0-5324-7317-8 or 1155.
English and are attached to TAT Some policies pay bills direct,
offices. Set up to deal with tourist- while others refund you later. Ko Samui
related crime, they help with Hospitals in Bangkok, both public Tel 0-774-3018 or 1155.
anything from credit card and private, are modern, Pattaya
scams to ludicrous bar clean, and efficient, Tel 0-3842-9371 or 1155.
surcharges. They are also although waiting times
helpful in emergencies are longer at public Phuket
Tel 0-7622-3891/2 or 1155.
and can act as an English- ones. Some doctors are
speaking liaison. Foreign Western-trained and Surat Thani
residents also volunteer speak good English. Tel 0-7740-5575 or 1155.
with the tourist police. Outside the capital Trat
The Bangkok branch of Badge identifying the best facilities are Tel 0-3955-7382/3 or 1155.
the tourist police is the tourist police in large towns: Khon
located in front of the Kaen in the northeast, Hospitals
southwest entrance to Lumphini Chiang Mai in the north, or
Park. The Tourist Assistance Center Phuket in the south. Emergency Bangkok
is also helpful in emergencies, care is available from military Bangkok General Hospital,
Soi Soonvijai, New Petchaburi Rd.
and is experienced in dealing hospitals. For dental or eye care,
Tel 0-2310-3000 or 1719.
with complaints such as it is best to seek treatment in
∑ bangkokhospital.com
fraudulent business charges. Bangkok. The Thai Red Cross
Bumrungrad Hospital,
on Rama IV Road does not offer
Sukhumvit, Soi 3.
medical treatment, but is able
Legal Assistance to deal with vaccinations and
Tel 0-2667-1000.
∑ bumrungrad.com
Some insurance policies cover snake bites.
legal costs, for example, after an Chiang Mai
accident. If involved in an crash McCormick Hospital, Kaew
when driving a rental car, it may Pharmacies Nawarat Rd.
be wise to go to the nearest There is no shortage of well- Tel 0-5392-1777.
∑ mccormick.in.th
telephone and call the tourist stocked pharmacies in Bangkok –
police or the Tourist Assistance there will be several on every Phuket
Center, then return to the scene main street and shopping mall, Phuket International Hospital,
of the accident. In Thailand there and supermarkets will have 44 Chalermprakiat Ror 9 Rd.
are no legal bodies specifically drugstore kiosks. They are all Tel 0-7624-9400.
representing foreigners. supplied with up-to-date ∑ phuketinternational
In an emergency, contact medications and can dispense hospital.com
your embassy (see p459). antibiotics over the counter
At night there is an answering without a prescription.
Ambulance
service, giving the number of Most pharmacies are open Tel 1554 (whole country).
the duty officer. If you are not from 8am to 9pm. In the central
insured for legal proceedings, areas of Bangkok, around Silom
then you should contact your and Sukhumvit Roads, a few Public Toilets
nearest consulate for advice. stay open until 10pm or 11pm. All hotels and many guest-
Pharmacy signs are the same houses have Western-style
all over the country. In small flush toilets. In some restaurants
towns pharmacies are less and at many major sights, you
prolific and have fewer will encounter the Asian squat
supplies. For instance, toilet. Nearby will be a bucket
disposable diapers and of water, used to sluice out
tampons can be hard the toilet after use. Paper is
Pharmacy sign found throughout Thailand to find in remote areas. disposed of in a bin.
466  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Immunization
There are no legal immunization
requirements unless you are
traveling from a country known
to be infected with yellow
fever. It is recommended that
everyone be immunized against
polio, tetanus, typhoid, and
hepatitis A. In addition, for those
travelers going to remote or
rural areas, or who are staying
more than two to three weeks,
BCG (tuberculosis), hepatitis B,
rabies, diphtheria, and Japanese
encephalitis vaccinations are
advised. For the most up-to-
date advice, contact your
doctor, who will also be able to
advise on the current guidelines
for malaria prevention, as the
drug recommendations change
fairly often.
Some vaccines need to be
given separately or in stages.
Some malaria tablets,
meanwhile, are started a week
before traveling and continued
for several weeks after returning.
Therefore, it is advisable to
contact your doctor at least
eight weeks before departure.
Coping with the Heat
Acclimatization to the some-
times oppressive humidity
and heat of Thailand can often
take longer than expected.
In the first few days it is
not advisable to exert
yourself. Make sure you
drink plenty of bottled
water, take plenty of
rest in the shade, and
avoid being out and
about in the midday
sun. Once you are
acclimatized,
dehydration and salt
deficiency can still be
a problem – always Treatment for
keep up a high intake of prickly heat
bottled water. Minor
fungal infections can occur due
to the heat, especially if tight
clothing or shoes are worn.
Perspiration
trapped
beneath the
skin can cause your constitution is delicate,
the itchy rash
called prickly
A fan to beat heat. The local sure you eat dishes while
the heat remedy and
prophylactic for this is a talcum
powder that contains a tingling
cooling agent. Clothing should
be loose and light – 100 percent
cotton is best.
The sun, especially at midday
and on the islands, is very
powerful; sunscreen and a
wide-brimmed hat are
indispensable.
First-Aid Kit
Although most first-aid items
can be obtained from any
pharmacy in main towns,
when traveling to rural areas
or quiet islands it is advisable
to carry a basic first-aid kit. This
should include the following:
any personal medication; aspirin
or paracetamol for fevers and
minor aches and pains; an
antiseptic for minor cuts and
bites; a digestive preparation to
soothe upset stomachs; insect
repellent; bandages; scissors,
tweezers, and a thermometer.
Tiger Balm, available at any
pharmacy, is Asia’s miracle cure-
all, relieving headaches, muscle
pains, and insect bites.
Minor Stomach Upsets
If you should contract diarrhea,
eat plain foods for a few days
and drink plenty of fluids. Do
not drink the tap water –
bottled water is readily
available throughout
the country. Ice should
be fine in main hotels
and restaurants, but
avoid crushed iced
drinks from street
vendors. Eating in
hotels and restaurants
is generally safe. It is
when you venture into
the street vendors’
moveable feasts that
the danger of “Bangkok
belly” can arise. Choose food
stalls that are popular with
locals, and watch how the
dishes are prepared. It can
take time for visitors’ stomachs
to adjust to new foods. If
stick to unpeeled fruits and
well-cooked foods, and make
they are still hot.
Drugs such as Lomotil and
Imodium can bring relief to
diarrhea, but rehydrating
solutions are usually the best
remedy. For immediate relief,
a single 500 mg dose of the
prescription called Ciprofloxacin
is effective and safe.
Tiger Balm – provides relief from aches,
pains, bites, and strains
Cuts and Bites
Always take precautions in rural
areas: wear boots and long
trousers when walking through
grassland or forested areas to
protect against snake bites and
leeches (in the rainy season).
Few snake bites are dangerous.
If you are bitten, apply an elastic
bandage firmly to the bite, keep
the limb immobile, and seek
immediate medical help.
Jellyfish stings are painful –
vinegar will soothe the wound.
Coral cuts are slow to heal as
coral contains a mild poison.
Cuts should be treated with an
antiseptic to prevent infection.
Bandages keep wounds wet so
should be used only sparingly.
Insect-Borne Diseases
Seven of Thailand’s 410 mosquito
species carry malaria. Symptoms
of the disease include headache,
fever, and violent chills. If you
experience such symptoms,
seek medical advice immediately.
Pollution in the main towns and
Essentials for the outdoor life – mosquito
coil and insect repellent

Spicy curries from food stalls – best avoided if your stomach is delicate
resorts keeps them largely free
of malarial mosquitoes. The areas
of greatest risk are the Myanmar
(Burmese) and Cambodian
border regions and some rural
areas north of Chiang Mai.
However, malarial zones are
continually changing. For up-to-
date information and advice on
the most suitable prophylactic
drug, visit your doctor or
contact a specialist travel clinic.
Mosquitoes have become
resistant to certain malaria
tablets. Prevention is by far the
best defense against the disease.
Malarial mosquitoes are active
from sundown till sunrise, during
which time you should spray on
plenty of repellent, wear long-
sleeved clothing in light colors
(dark attracts mosquitoes), and
use mosquito nets and coils.
Dengue fever, another mosquito-
borne disease, is a risk during
the daytime. However, few
mosquitoes are infected with the
virus, and the symptoms, though
intense and unpleasant, are
rarely fatal. These include fever,
headache, severe joint and
muscle pains, and a rash. Cases
of Dengue fever have increased,
so avoid stagnant bodies of
water. No preventive treatment
or vaccination is available.
In Northern Thailand and some
rural areas there is a risk of con-
tracting Japanese encephalitis,
spread by night-biting ticks and
mosquitoes. The symptoms are
headache, fever, chills, and
vomiting. Vaccination is
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
advisable for travel to rural areas
(particularly during the rainy
season) or trekking. Should any
of the above symptoms occur
seek immediate medical help.
People- and Animal-
Borne Diseases
Acquired immune deficiency
syndrome (AIDS) is passed
through bodily fluids. Blood
transfusion methods in Thailand
are not always reliable – it is
safest to seek treatment in the
main hospitals. The same goes
for inoculations – make sure
needles are new or bring your
own supply. Be wary of all
procedures involving
needles, including ear-
piercing, dentistry,
and tattooing.
The high turnover of
clients in Thailand’s
pervasive sex industry
means that unprotected
sex carries a serious risk (see
p120). Not only AIDS, but
other sexually transmitted
diseases are commonplace.
Hepatitis B is also
transmitted through
bodily fluids. Symptoms
include fever, nausea,
fatigue, and jaundice, and
it can lead to severe liver
damage. A prophylactic
vaccine is available.
Rabies is carried in the saliva of is essential as complications such
infected animals and can be
passed on by a bite or lick to a
wound or scratch. Any bite from
 467
a dog, cat, or monkey should
be cleaned immediately
and checked by a doctor.
Treatment involves a long
series of inoculations.
Tetanus is a potentially lethal
disease transmitted through
infected cuts and animal bites.
The first symptoms are difficulty
in swallowing (tetanus is also
known as lockjaw) and muscle
stiffness in the neck area, which
can lead to convulsions.
As with rabies, all wounds should
be speedily cleaned and
examined by a doctor. Effective
vaccinations are available.
Bilharzia is contracted from tiny
worms that infect some types
of freshwater snail. They burrow
into the skin and cause a general
feeling of sickness and abdo-
minal pain. Avoid swimming
in untested rivers and lakes.
Food- and Water-Borne
Diseases
Dysentery, a severe form of food
or water poisoning, is rare in
Thailand, but not unknown.
Bacillary dysentery –
characterized by stomach pains,
vomiting, and fever – is highly
contagious but rarely lasts longer
than a week. Amebic dysentery
has similar symptoms but takes
longer to develop. It can recur
and cause chronic health
problems. Medical help should
be sought without delay if
you think you have either type.
Hepatitis A is passed on in
conditions of poor
sanitation (contaminated
water or food) and can be
prevented with a vaccine.
Symptoms include fatigue,
aching, fever, chills, and
jaundice. Little can be done
to treat it beyond rest.
Typhoid is transmitted
through contaminated
water or food, and fluid
replacement is the most
Bottled water important treatment.
Symptoms are similar to
those of flu but quickly accelerate
to fever, weight loss, and severe
dehydration. Medical attention
as pneumonia can easily occur.
Although a vaccination is avail-
able, it is not always reliable.
468  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Banking and Local Currency

Throughout Bangkok and the main provincial towns, banking
facilities and exchange services are plentiful, well-run, and
easy to access. In the major centers, tellers often speak some
English. Exchange booths are usually located in the central
parts of towns, and mobile exchange units are stationed
near larger tourist attractions. Automatic Teller Machines
(ATMs) can be found in all cities. Smaller towns are less likely HSBC, an international bank operating
to have exchange facilities, but most have banks or ATMs. in Bangkok
Rural villages, unless they are tourist destinations, probably
surcharges for such transactions.
will not have banking or currency exchange services. If you are planning an extended
stay in Thailand, it might be
worth opening an account at a
Banks and Banking ATM Services Thai bank. This allows access to
Hours Most ATMs provide instructions all ATMs, free of exchange rates
The four main banks are the in both Thai and English. or charges.
Bangkok Bank, the Kasikorn Any ATM displaying the VISA
Bank, the Siam Commercial or MasterCard sign will accept
Bank, and the Krung Thai these cards and dispense cash Changing Money
Bank. The Bank of Ayudhya in baht using your PIN. There are Banks offer the best exchange
and CIMB Thai also have rates, and rates differ little
branches throughout the between them. Hotels usually
country. Foreign-owned offer the worst rates, while
banks offering full banking those at exchange booths can
services include the Bank of vary. US dollars are widely
America, Citibank, Deutsche accepted when buying baht,
Bank, Hongkong and although sterling and euro are
Shanghai Bank (HSBC) and also taken. In Bangkok, hole-in-
Standard Chartered Bank. the-wall exchange booths can
Banking hours are generally be found in large department
8:30am–3:30pm, Monday to stores and shopping malls and
Friday. Some banks have on major roads. Mobile exchange
branches in department units are located near tourist
stores which are open attractions and market areas
10am–8pm. Exchange booths and are open daily between
are open daily, until late. 7am and 9pm. Exchange rates
Major banks can arrange Automatic Teller Machines, found in are published daily in the
international money transfers. Bangkok and many Thai towns Bangkok Post and the Nation.

DIRECTORY
Thai Banks Krung Thai Bank Citibank Standard Chartered
35 Sukhumvit Rd, 399 Sukhumvit Rd, Bank
Bangkok Bank Bangkok. 90 Fl. 16A Building 3,
Bangkok.
333 Silom Rd, Bangkok. Tel 0-2208-8699. North Sathorn Rd,
Tel 1588 or Bangkok.
Tel 0-2231-4333. ∑ ktb.co.th
0-2788-2000. Tel 0-2724-4777.
∑ bangkokbank.com
Siam Commercial ∑ citibank.co.th ∑ standardchartered.
Bank of Ayudhya Bank co.th
1222 Rama 3, Bangkok. Deutsche Bank
9 Rachadaphisak Rd,
Tel 0-2683-1000. Bangkok. Tel 0-2544-
Athenee Tower, Cards
∑ krungsri.com 1000. ∑ scb.co.th Levels 27–29,
American Express
63 Wireless Rd, Bangkok. Tel 0-2273-5544, 0-2273-
CIMB Thai
44 Langsuan Rd, Bangkok. Foreign Banks Tel 0-2646-5000. ∑ db. 5522.
com/thailand
Tel 0-2626-7000. Bank of America Diners Club
∑ cimbthai.com HSBC Tel 0-2232-4100.
All Seasons Place, CRC ∑ dinersclub.com
Kasikorn Bank Tower, 33rd Floor, 87/2 HSBC Building,
1 Kasikornthai Lane, Wireless Rd, Bangkok. 968 Rama IV Rd, MasterCard
Tel 0-2305-2900. Bangkok. Tel 0-2673-7555.
Ratburana Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2888-8888. ∑ bankofamerica. Tel 0-2614-4000. VISA
∑ kasikornbank.com com/th ∑ hsbc.co.th Tel 001-800-441-3485.

Credit and Debit Cards
Credit cards are accepted in
department stores, major
hotels, and upscale shops and
restaurants. They can also be
used at banks (and some
exchange kiosks) for cash
advances. A surcharge will be
applied. VISA and MasterCard
are the most widely accepted
cards; the use of Diners Club
and American Express is
more limited.
MasterCard debit cards can
be used to withdraw cash at
most foreign exchange booths,
and at Bangkok Bank and Siam
Commercial Bank. VISA debit
cards can do the same at the
Kasikorn Bank. Debit cards can
also be used at ATMs, but a
surcharge will be levied.
As the popularity of plastic
money increases, so too does
the incidence of credit-card
fraud. Visitors should always
carefully check what they sign.
Travelers’ Checks
Travelers’ checks are the safest
method of carrying money.
Banks, main hotels, and most
exchange booths cash them,
with banks providing the lowest
surcharge. Banks charge a fee
per check cashed, so using
large-denomination checks
works out cheapest.
Currency
The Thai unit of currency is the
baht, usually seen abbreviated
to “B.” There are 100 satang in a
Coins come in the following
denominations:
25 satang
1 baht
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
Logo for one of Thailand’s long-
established banks
baht, but the satang represents
such a small sum today that it is
scarcely used. You may hear 25
satang referred to as a saleung.
However, inflation is rendering
this colloquial term redundant.
Banknotes come in the
following denominations: 20
baht, 50 baht, 100 baht, 500
baht, and 1,000 baht. Changing
large denomination notes in
rural areas may prove difficult.
The coin denominations are
25 satang (1 saleung), 50 satang,
1 baht, 2 baht, 5 baht,
10 baht. The gold 2
baht coin is slightly
bigger than the silver
50 baht
500 baht
50 satang
2 baht
 469
1 baht coin. The silver 5 baht
coin has a copper rim and the
10 baht coin has a bronze center
surrounded by a silver outer ring.
Old coins feature Thai numerals
only, while newer coins have
both Thai and Arabic numerals.
VAT
Thailand imposes a 7 percent
Value Added Tax (VAT) on
goods and services, generally
levied only in upscale hotels,
restaurants, and shops. There is
a VAT refund scheme for tourists
who are in the country for less
than 180 days. Look out for
shops displaying a “VAT Refund
For Tourists” sign.
20 baht
100 baht
1,000 baht
5 baht 10 baht
470  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Communications and Media

Thailand’s communication network is becoming increasingly
sophisticated. The telephone system is run by the Telephone
Organization of Thailand (TOT) under the umbrella of the
Communications Authority of Thailand (CAT). It is possible
to make international calls and send faxes from all business
centers and main hotels. Public phones can be found on
all main roads and many minor ones. The postal system,
however, can be erratic; the Thai EMS service is very reliable
with tracking and less expensive than international couriers.
Many major international newspapers and magazines can
be easily obtained. Locally published English-language
newspapers and magazines can be bought in almost every
hotel and bookstore, and at many curbside newsstands. A green card-phone for local and
long-distance domestic calls
International Calls Domestic calls can be made Internet and Email
All major hotels and most from blue-and-silver coin Internet access is available in
guesthouses offer international phones or green card-phones. Internet cafés, hotels, and
dialing services. Business Coin-operated phones accept guesthouses all over Thailand.
centers and Internet cafés in one-, five-, and ten-baht coins. Charges range from 20 baht per
small towns will usually Calls within the same area code hour in a local Internet café to
provide phone, fax, and cost one baht for three minutes. 250 baht per hour in a five-star
printing services. Cards for green and orange hotel. In some places, Wi-Fi
Bangkok’s Central Post Office card-phones can be bought at hotspots are available for free
on Charoen Krung New Road most post offices, bookstores, (ask staff for the code). However,
and some major post offices and hotels and come in several in airports and upmarket hotels
around the country have a CAT denominations: 25 baht, 50 there can be a charge of as
center that can arrange collect baht, 100 baht, and 240 baht. much as 600 baht per day.
and credit card calls. In Bangkok The long-distance domestic Connections in Bangkok
these are open from 7am until service also covers Malaysia and some of the larger
midnight, with reduced hours and Laos, as well as regional provincial centers are usually
in the provinces. Thai calls. fast, but generally speaking
To dial directly from a hotel the further you move away
room, either contact the from urban centers, the slower
reception, or dial 001 (for an Cell Phones the connection. Even the
international line) followed There are four main GSM (Global most remote islands now
by the country code and System for Mobile Communi- have reasonable, if slow,
telephone number. It is also cations) frequencies in use Internet connections.
possible to use 007, 008, or around the world, so if
009 to prefix your number – you want to guarantee
these offer cheaper rates. that your phone will
Alternatively, dial the work, make sure you
international operator have a quad-band
at 100. phone. Contact your
Blue and yellow international service provider for
pay phones can be found on clarification. Cell phones
the street, in shopping malls, are extremely cheap in
and in airports. The blue phones Thailand. There are One of Thailand’s many Internet cafés
take some credit cards. The several operating
yellow phones accept Lenso companies, including AIS, True,
phonecards, which are sold in and DTAC. SIM cards can be Postal Services
the post office and by agents bought from cell phone shops, Thailand has a reliable postal
displaying the Lenso logo. but there is a registration process system. Letters and postcards
for which tourists must have usually take at least one week
their passport photographed. to reach Europe and North
Local Calls Customers can pay monthly or America. Stamps are available
Local calls can be made from buy a scratch card with a dial-in at all post offices and at many
any public pay phone other top-up code. Cards are available hotels. Packages should be
than the blue-and-yellow from 7-Eleven stores and range sent by registered mail or via
international pay phones. from 50 to 500 baht in value. International Express Mail

Service (EMS), which
can be a cheaper
alternative to international
shipping companies.
General delivery
facilities are available
at all main post offices.
Letters will normally be
held for up to three
months. To claim mail
from general delivery,
you must show your
passport and sometimes
pay a small fee. Letters
should be addressed
to you (last name
written in capitals
and underlined), Thai mail box
poste restante, GPO,
address, town, Thailand. Thus
for Bangkok’s main GPO,
correspondents should send
mail care of GPO, Charoen
Krung Road, Bangkok.
Post offices are usually open
8:30am–4:30pm Monday to Friday and international coverage.
and 9am–noon on Saturdays.
The main international courier
companies, such as DHL, FedEx,
and UPS, operate in Thailand.
Television and Radio
Thailand has numerous
television channels; programs
are mostly in Thai, though in
Bangkok some are broadcast
with an English simulcast on FM international magazines. News
radio. Most international English- weeklies The Economist, Time, and
language satellite and cable
networks such as the BBC, CNN, Among the local English-
Al Jazeera, and CNBC are readily language monthly publications
available. Many hotels provide
Useful Dialing Codes
• Whether calling from within or
outside the province, you need
to dial a 9-digit number for
Bangkok and all other provinces.
• For international calls, dial 001,
007, 008, or 009, followed by the
country code.
• Country codes are: UK 44;
Ireland 353; France 33; US &
Canada 1; Australia 61; New
Zealand 64. It may be necessary
to omit the first digit of the
destinat- ion area code. This will
also apply when calling
international mobile numbers.
• For directory assistance dial 1133
from anywhere in the country.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  471
satellite and cable television DIRECTORY
as well as an in-house video
channel. Check the Bangkok Directory Assistance
Post and The Nation for details. Greater Bangkok
English-language radio Metropolitan Area
stations are listed in the Tel 1133.
Outlook section of the
Bangkok Post. The national Provincial Areas
Tel 1133.
public radio station, Radio
Thailand, broadcasts Operator
English-language
programs on 107 and International Service or
105 FM 24 hours a day, Auto Long Distance Service
and listings for short-wave from Thailand to Malaysia,
frequencies are found Myanmar, Cambodia, and
in the Bangkok Post and Laos
The Nation. Tel 007 or 008.
Courier companies
Newspapers and
DHL
Magazines 209 K Tower A, 12th Floor, 21
The main English-language Sukhumvit Rd, Bangkok.
newspapers are the Bangkok Tel 0-2345-5000.
Post and The Nation. Both ∑ dhl.co.th
provide reliable local, regional, FedEx
Green Tower, 3656/22
Their daily inserts include features Rama IV, Bangkok.
on lifestyle and travel, as well as Tel 1782.
listings for food, films, concerts, ∑ fedex.co.th
and exhibitions in Bangkok.
UPS
Both are sold in news kiosks
16/1 Soi 44/1 Sukhumvit Rd,
and shops throughout Bangkok. Bangkok. Tel 0-2762-3300.
The International Herald Tribune ∑ ups.com
and the Asian Wall Street Journal
are sold in hotels and bookstores
such as Asia Books and
Bookazine, which also stock Big Chilli. In addition to this,
helpful free guides that are
widely available, including in
Newsweek are widely available. restaurants, bars, and
bookstores, are BK Magazine,
Absolute Lifestyle, and Thaiways.
is the useful listings guide
• To put a call through the
international operator, or to
report technical problems,
dial 101.
• To speak to the domestic
operator, dial 101.
• To make a reverse charge
(collect) call dial 101 for the
international operator.
• Note that the speaking
clock and similar telephone
services such as directory
assistance are all in Thai.
• For a wake-up call, contact
your hotel switchboard or
front desk.
Newspaper seller on the beach
472  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION
For most visitors, flying is the most
convenient way of getting to Thailand.
Other routes include ferry, road, and rail via
Malaysia; ferry and road via Cambodia; and
limited but rapidly improving road links via
Laos. Domestic flights within Thailand are
easy and cut journey times considerably,
with provincial airports dotted generously
around the country. Flights to surrounding
countries are cheaper if booked within
Thailand. Regular rail services run between
Bangkok and Singapore, via Kuala Lumpur,
Butterworth (for Penang), and some
Southern Thai towns. Rail travel is efficient,
clean, and comfortable, but there is a limited
number of lines. Long-distance and provincial
buses of varying quality run to all towns and
to most villages. At a local level there is a
variety of taxis, songthaews, and tuk-tuks
with which to get around.

Green Travel
Travel around Thailand is easy,
convenient, and cheap, but not
really very green. Most people
will travel by train, long-distance
coach, or car hire – the latter
being the most flexible and
user-friendly, as the kingdom’s
roads are uniformly good and
well-maintained (though
driving can be hazardous at
times). The only possibility for
green travel in terms of fuel is
the use of Liquid Petroleum
Gas (LPG). This less-polluting
fuel has been introduced in an
attempt to combat increasing
exhaust pollution in large
cities and rising oil prices.
However, vehicles using LPG
are still relatively few, so the
best that can reasonably be
hoped for is the use of
Gasohol, which combines
ordinary benzene with fuel
derived from sugar cane.
Some of Bangkok’s newer
local buses now use LPG and
the city authorities are slowly
replacing the old polluting
buses, but this will take time.
Both LPG and Gasohol are, to
some extent, subsidized by
the government in an attempt
to encourage their use.
Gasohol service station
A Boeing 747 in the traditional livery of Thai Airways
Bangkok’s Skytrain and MRT
underground have made a
huge difference to the city’s
once clogged arteries, providing
transport for thousands of
commuters who would
previously have used their cars.
Arriving by Air
Thailand is served by numerous
airlines from all over the world.
Direct flights are available
from North America, Europe,
Australasia, and Asia. Thai
Airways operates direct flights
from Los Angeles to Bangkok,
and British Airways, United
Airlines, and Delta have a
connecting service from New
York. Qantas has direct flights to
Bangkok from Sydney,
Melbourne, and London,
and Singapore Airlines
flies from Australia to
Bangkok via Singapore.
International flights also
land at U-Tapao Airport,
located 45 minutes from
Pattaya. Flights from
Asian countries may
land at Phuket, Chiang
Mai, Hat Yai, Krabi, or
Ko Samui.
Air Fares
The cost of flying to and from
Thailand varies according to the
destination, the airline, and the
time of year. In the northern
hemisphere low fares are
available from September to
April, and in the southern
hemisphere from March to
November. Bangkok is one of the
cheapest cities in the world to fly
out of due to loose government
restrictions on air fares and fierce
competition between the airlines
and Bangkok’s travel agencies.
International Flights
One of the busiest airports in
Asia, Suvarnabhumi (BKK) is
used for international as well
as domestic flights. This huge
modern airport is in Racha Thewa
in Bang Phli district, Samut
Prakan Province, 18 miles (30 km)
east of the capital. Named by
King Bhumibol, Suvarnabhumi
means “Golden Land.” In total, the
airport stretches over 11 miles
(17 km) and has the world’s
tallest air traffic control tower.
Arriving passengers enter
the terminal on the second
floor of the concourse buildings.
 T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  473

After passing through passport

control and customs, they can
proceed to the arrivals hall, where
they will find transportation and
accommodation counters and
tourist information. A meeting
point is on the third floor.
The older but refurbished Don
Muang Airport (DMK), north of
the city, is the hub for Thai Air
Asia, Nok Air, and many budget
airlines such as Tiger, Scoot, and
Thai Smile. Many domestic
flights also go from Don Muang.
If transferring between the
airports, allow at least 3 hours
between your first flight’s arrival
and your next departure. A free
shuttle bus (on production of
a valid air ticket) takes around
50 minutes and leaves from the
bus stand outside the main exit
at arrivals. Taxis also leave from
here, with a surcharge of 50
baht. The taxi booking stands are
inside the airport. The nearest
rail connections are at Morchit
(Skytrain) and Chatuchak Park
(MRT Metro), and there is a
shuttle bus A1 to both.
Airport Shopping
With more than 100 duty free
shops, Suvarnabhumi Airport
is a shopper’s paradise.
Planes on the tarmac at Suvarnabhumi Airport
Suvarnabhumi International Airport
Tourists should, however, refrain
from touching or moving
merchandise that they do not
intend to buy. Such actions
might give the impression of
shoplifting, and this may result
in detention and questioning
by the police.
Getting to and from
Suvarnabhumi
International Airport
Metered taxis are available
outside the first floor. There is a
surcharge of 50 baht in addition
to the meter fare. A trip into the
city will cost roughly 400 baht,
including expressway charges,
and take around 45
minutes, depending
on traffic. Passengers
can also take a shuttle
bus or the rail link.
People traveling to
the airport by road
are strongly advised
to allow at least
one hour for travel
time and to take
the expressway.
Check-ins, particularly at the
Thai Airways counter, are often
subject to delays. The walk from
the passport checkpoint to the
flight departure lounge is also
a considerable distance.
A direct airport rail link runs
every 40 minutes from Bangkok
City Airport Terminal at
Makkasan Station in the center
of Bangkok to Suvarnabhumi
Airport. The non-stop journey
takes 15 minutes, while the
stopping service takes about
30 minutes. Both services have
considerably cut the journey
time between the airport and
the center of Bangkok.
Travelers wishing to go to
Suvarnabhumi Airport from
outside Bangkok should allow
plenty of time – at least two
hours per 60 miles (100 km)
of the journey. It is advisable
to shop around for taxis as fares
can vary greatly. Many tourist
areas now have air-conditioned
regular minibus services at a
fraction of the cost of private
taxis (130 baht from Pattaya,
for example).

Distance to Town or Average Journey

Airport § Information Average Taxi Fare
Resort Time
Bangkok: 0-2535-1111 City center 16 miles Rail: 50 minutes
300 baht
Don Muang 0-2535-1253 (25 km) Road: 1–2 hours
Bangkok: City center 18 miles Rail link: 15 mins
0-2132-1888 400 baht
Suvarnabhumi (30 km) Road: 45–60 mins
City center 2.5 miles
Chiang Mai 0-5327-0222 100 baht Road: 20 minutes
(4 km)
Patong 20 miles
Phuket 0-7632-7230-7 550 baht Road: 45 minutes
(32 km)
Chaweng 16 miles
Ko Samui 0-7742-8500 300 baht Road: 30 minutes
(26 km)
City center 7.5 miles
Hat Yai 0-7422-7000 200 baht Road: 30 minutes
(12 km)
474  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Domestic Flights and causing many

While a good number of other problems
domestic flights from Bangkok for independent
leave from Suvarnabhumi, many travelers. It is not
also fly from Don Muang Airport. recommended to
Located on Bangkok’s Vibhavadi enter Thailand from
Rangsit Road, Don Muang Myanmar via any of
serves all the domestic flights the land routes.
of local budget carrier Nok Air. The crossings from
Thai Lion Air flies to many Laos are Huay Xai to
major destinations, such as Chiang Khong; Nam
Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Phuket, and Hong to Nakasing;
Surat Thani. It also serves towns Tha Na Leng to
such as Krabi and Chiang Rai. Nong Khai via the A Nok Air Boeing 737-400 at Don Muang airport
Other airlines using Don Muang Friendship Bridge;
as their main hub include Thai Paksan to Beung Khan; Tha DIRECTORY
Air Asia and Orient Thai Khaek to Nakhon Phanom;
Airlines. Tickets can be bought Savannakhet to Mukdahan; and Airlines
through travel agents and Vang Tao to Chong Mek. The
Bangkok Airways
hotels, or booked directly Friendship Bridge is the most Tel 1771.
through the airlines – in this popular entry point as it is close ∑ bangkokair.com
case, passengers will need to to the capital, Vientiane.
pick up their ticket at the airport Entry from Cambodia is British Airways
at least one hour before flying. relatively easy. Crossings include Tel 0-2627-1701.
On public holidays (see p55) Poipet to Aranya Prathet; Cham Tel (0844) 493 0787 (UK).
and on weekends, when there Yeam to Hat Lek; O’Smach to ∑ britishairways.com
are more people traveling, it can Chong Jom; Anlong Veng to Delta
be difficult to get a flight, so Chong Sa-Ngam; Phsa Prom Tel 0-2660-6900.
book tickets well in advance or Pailin to Ban Pakard; and Daun Tel (800) 221 1212 (US).
travel during the week. Lem to Ban Laem. ∑ delta.com
Entry from Malaysia has in the
Etihad Airlines
past been a formality, but with
Arriving via Land ongoing troubles in the three
Tel 0-2787-3377.
or Water ∑ etihad.com
southernmost, mainly Muslim
Thailand shares land borders provinces, Narathiwat, Pattani, Nok Air
with four countries – Myanmar and Yala, many Western govern- Tel 1318.
(Burma), Laos, Cambodia, and ments may advise against ∑ nokair.com
Malaysia. There are six border crossing the border in these Orient Thai Airlines
crossings with Myanmar, seven areas. Currently there are two Tel 1126.
with Laos, six with Cambodia, crossings in Satun Province that ∑ flyorientthai.com
and seven with Malaysia. Visas are safe: Wang Prajan next to
Qantas
obtained at a land border the Thale Ban National Park and
Tel 0-2236-2800.
crossing are only valid for 15 days. Kuala Perlis to Satun town. The
Tel (0845) 774 7767 (UK).
Myanmar is the most difficult Butterworth to Bangkok express
∑ qantas.com.au
country to enter Thailand train uses the Padang Besar to
from, with the authorities Sadao crossing and this is also Singapore Airlines
regularly closing border points a safe point for crossing. Tel 0-2353-6000.
Tel (800) 742-3333 (US).
∑ singaporeair.com

Thai Air Asia

Tel 0-2515-9999.
∑ airasia.com

Thai Airways
Tel 0-2356-1111.
Tel (800) 426-5204 (US).
∑ thaiair.com

Thai Lion Air

Tel 0-2529-9999.
∑ lionairthai.com

United Airlines
Tel 0-2353-3939.
Tel (800) 538-2929 (US).
Entrance to the Friendship Bridge, the border crossing to Thailand from Laos
 T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  475

Organized Tours as are jeeps for gaining access

to remote areas. Most vehicles
Hundreds of tour companies are based in Bangkok, Chiang are well maintained and safe.
Mai, and major resorts such as Phuket, and most hotels Boat tours are popular in many
throughout the country offer tours of one sort or another. resorts, though the majority of
operators follow the same routes.
Typical excursions available range from one-day city tours
Day trips to islands, including
covering the main sights to more comprehensive itineraries opportunities for water sports, are
taking in several towns and locations over several days. common. Transfers to and from
Costs are naturally higher than taking public transit, but hotels are often part of the deal.
in some cases – for instance many sights in the Greater Trips to remote islands, usually
Bangkok region – much time and effort simply in getting offering diving facilities on board
(see p446), can span several days,
to the destination may be saved. The drawback of most and accommodation may be
organized tours is, of course, that there is rarely time to linger. provided on the boat itself.

Booking a Tour include arrangements for Guided Tours

It should be possible to book accommodations, and usually Bilingual guides accompany
a tour of Thailand from your have at least one departure day many tours, especially to
home country that will include each week. In most cases, the tour popular cultural sights such as
all travel and accommodations. company will pick you up direct Ayutthaya. In Northern Thailand
Such all-inclusive tours typically from your hotel or guesthouse. a knowledgeable guide is
last between one and two essential for safety reasons
weeks and include a few when trekking through the
nights in Bangkok followed Tour Buses and Boats jungle and visiting hill-tribe
by excursions to Chiang Mai Many tour companies use villages. The quality of guides
and other Northern locations, luxury, or “VIP,” coaches, with varies considerably: a listing
or to a beach resort. Other reclining seats, on-board of reputable ones is published
packages are more specialized, refreshments, air-conditioning, by the Professional Guide
concentrating, say, on trekking and a toilet. Air-conditioned Association and available
in the North (see p448), and may minibuses are also common, from TAT (see p459).
vary from a few days to several
weeks in duration. Based in
Bangkok, Diethelm Travel and
Exo Travel are major operators.
Most regional hotels and
many guesthouses offer tours
of the surrounding area, or are
in close contact with local tour
companies. The local TAT office
will also be able to recommend
reputable tour companies.
Day trips to the most popular
sights can usually be booked
just one day in advance. Tours
to more distant sights should A boat sails across the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok

Major Tour
Companies
Arlymear Travel
6th Floor, CCT Building,
109 Surawong Rd,
Bangkok. Tel 0-2236-9317.
∑ arlymear.com
Diethelm Travel
12th Fl.Kian Gwan
Building II, 140 Wireless Rd,
Bangkok. Tel 0-2660-7000.
∑ diethelmtravel.com
DIRECTORY
Exo Travel
22nd Floor, Smooth Life
Tower, 44 North Sathorn
Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2633-9060.
∑ exotravel.com
NS Travel & Tours
133/48 Ratchaprarop 12,
Makkasan Ratchathewee,
Bangkok.
Tel 0-2640-1440.
∑ nstravel.com
P&O Regale Travel
(cruises)
191/1-2 Soi
Suksaviddhaya, North
Sathorn Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2635-2450.
∑ regaleintl.com
STA Travel
14th Floor, Wall Street
Tower Building, 33/70
Surawong Rd, Bangkok.
Tel 0-2236-0262 ext 211.
∑ statravel.co.th
Thai Orchid Service
PO Box 54, Talat Kamtieng
Post Office, Chiang Mai.
Tel 0-5200-0136.
∑ thaiorchidservice.
com
World Travel
Service Ltd
1053 Charoen Krung Rd,
Bangkok.
Tel 0-2233-5900.
∑ worldtravelservice.
co.th
476  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Traveling around by Train, Train Tickets and Fares

A train timetable in English is
Bus, and Boat available from Hua Lampong
Station in Bangkok. Be aware
Thailand has an efficient railroad system known as the SRT that trains at peak periods
(State Railway of Thailand), with four major lines connecting (weekends and holidays) can
Bangkok with the North, Northeast, East, and South. Though be sold out days in advance.
trains are comfortable and safe, trip times are similar, sometimes Hua Lampong has an advance
booking office with English-
even longer, than by bus, and the number of towns on the net­
speaking staff. Some travel
work is limited. Phuket and Chiang Rai, for instance, do not have agents will also book tickets.
train stations. By contrast, comfortable, well maintained, long­ Fares depend on the speed
distance buses connect all major cities to Bangkok, and provincial of the train and the class of the
buses serve all smaller towns as well as many villages. The main carriage. A second-class ticket
islands are accessible via regular scheduled ferry services. between Bangkok and Chiang
Mai is about 431 baht. Shorter
trips, such as from Bangkok to
Railroad Network Express and Special Express Ayutthaya, cost anything between
The main station in Bangkok is trains) consist of individual 15–120 baht. Tourists can also
Hua Lampong, which serves all cabins with air- conditioning. buy 20-day rail passes which
four major lines. The first line Second-class coaches have cost 1,500–3,000 baht. Information
runs to Chiang Mai via the reclining seats and a choice of about these is available from
Central Plains. A second, which fans or air-conditioning. Hua Lampong Station.
later divides in two, runs to Sleepers in this class have
Nong Khai and Ubon Ratchathani individual seats that are
in Northeast Thailand. A third converted into curtained-off Long-distance Buses
connects Bangkok to the beds at night. Toilets (there Long-distance buses run from
Eastern Seaboard and should be at least one Western the Eastern (Ekamai), Northern
Cambodia, and a fourth runs toilet) and washing facilities are (Morchit), and Southern (Pin
down the peninsula to Malaysia. at the end of coaches. Most Klao) bus terminals in Bangkok.
Thon Buri Station in Bangkok tourists find that second class is Most provincial capitals can be
Noi is the principal departure comfortable enough for long reached direct from Bangkok.
point for trains to Kanchanaburi distances and far more relaxing Large cities such as Chiang Mai,
and the Khwae River Bridge. than a bus journey. Phitsanulok, Khorat, and Surat
Third-class coaches have Thani also act as transit hubs,
wooden benches, each seating with both long-distance and
Trains two or three passengers: these local connections. Buses can
Train services in Thailand are coaches are cheap but are not be faster than trains: Bangkok
labeled Special Express (the recommended for long to Chiang Mai takes about
fastest), Express, Rapid (slower distances. Seats cannot be ten hours. Vehicles are air-
than Express), and Ordinary. booked in advance. conditioned, with a toilet,
Travel times, even on Express Most trains are clean and well reclining seats, and plenty of leg
trains, can be longer than by maintained. Uniformed vendors room. “VIP” buses have the best
road. The trip from Bangkok to stroll up and down the aisles facilities, including free refresh-
Chiang Mai, for instance, takes with refreshments, and buffet ments served by a stewardess at
between 11 and 13 hours. cars are attached to trains on a halfway rest point. Overnight
First-class coaches (available on long-distance routes. services can get rather chilly –
blankets should be provided.

Bus Tickets and Fares

Fares for long-distance bus
trips are similar in price to
second-class train tickets. “VIP”
buses are at the top of the price
range. Book well in advance
through a travel agent or at
the bus station if traveling on
the weekend or during a public
holiday. Other-wise, just turn
up at the coach station at
least half an hour before
departure. Tickets are always
Fountain in front of Hua Lampong Station, Bangkok bought as one-way.
 T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  477

Boats to the Islands

Eastern & Oriental Express Scheduled ferries are always
The world-renowned Eastern & Oriental Express operates between erratic, since their service is
Bangkok and Singapore. The journey takes three days and two nights, dependent on the weather;
including stops at Butterworth (Penang) and Kuala Lumpur in some do not operate at all in the
Malaysia. The 22 carriages are bedecked with fabrics and fittings rainy season (Mar–Nov). Regular
evocative of 1930s services are available to Ko
rail travel. Double Samui, Ko Pha Ngan, and Ko Tao
and single cabins from Chumphon and Surat
come in private and Thani. Ko Phi Phi is served by
presidential classes,
ferries from Phuket and Krabi. A
and there are two
restaurants, a saloon
regular daily service ferries cars
car, a bar, and an and passengers between Laem
observation deck. Ngop and Ko Chang. Smaller
Such luxuries are, of islands have less regular services,
course, reflected in sometimes just a makeshift ferry
the price. Dining car on the Eastern & Oriental Express run by local fishermen. Travel
agents will be able to give you
rough timetables, but these will
Provincial Buses a jacket or sweater, especially vary. Many services stop in the
The government bus company when traveling at night. rainy season. Some companies
is called Bor Kor Sor (BKS). Traveling on provincial buses offer deals on train and boat
Its buses are frequent, is a good way to meet local tickets combining Bangkok and
relatively reliable, and the people and reach many the islands of Ko Samui, Ko Pha
cheapest form of villages and sights. Beware, Ngan, and Ko Tao. Reliable
transportation in Thailand. though, that refreshment and operators include Lomprayah,
Booking is rarely necessary. toilet stops may be infrequent, Seatran and Songserm.
On many buses simply pay buses may be in a poor
the driver or conductor. state of repair, and the
Almost every town will have road skills of drivers will
a terminal. The non air- vary. Local services are
conditioned(rot thamadaa) nearly always slow and
buses are the cheapest and crowded. Back seats are
slowest, and they stop almost reserved for monks, so
everywhere along the way. be prepared to move or
Air-conditioned (rot aer) local stand. Women should
buses do not necessarily avoid sitting next to
provide blankets, so take monks (see p463). Small island ferry service

DIRECTORY
Train Information Advance booking office Eastern/Ekamai Bus Ferry Information
open 7am–4pm daily. Terminal, Bangkok
Chiang Mai Station Sukhumvit Rd, Bangkok. Lomprayah
Charoen Muang Rd, Seat 61 Ko Samui Office.
Tel 0-2391-8097 (Ekamai).
Chiang Mai. ∑ seat61.com Tel 0-7742-7765/6.
Tel 0-5324-7462 or Northern and ∑ lomprayah.com
Surat Thani Station
0-5324-4795. Northeastern/
14 km (9 miles) west Seatran Discovery
Morchit Bus Terminal,
Eastern & Oriental of Surat Thani in Ferry
Bangkok
Express Kha Tham town. Kampheng Phet Rd, Bangkok Office.
Tel (020) 7921 4010 (UK). Tel 0-7731-1963 or Morchit, Bangkok. Tel 0-2240-2582.
Tel (800) 524-2420 or 0-7731-1213. Tel 0-2936-0657. Ko Samui Office.
(843) 937-9068 (US). Thon Buri/Bangkok Tel 0-7724-6086.
Southern/Pin Klao
Tel 0-2255-9150 Noi Station Bus Terminal, ∑ seatrandiscovery.
(Bangkok). Arun Amarin Rd, Bangkok Songserm
Tel (65) 392 3500 Bangkok Noi. Boromratchonnee Rd, Express Boat
(Singapore). Tel 0-2411-3102. Phra Pin Klao, Bangkok. Khao San Road Office,
∑ orient-express.com Tel 0-2872-1777 (dial 2 Bangkok.
Bus Terminals for operator).
Hua Lampong Tel 0-2280-8076.
Station, Bangkok Chiang Mai Surat Thani Chumphon Office.
Rama IV, Bangkok. Chiang Mai Arcade, Kaew Talat Kaset Bus Terminal, Tel 0-7750-6205.
Tel 1690. Nawarat Rd, Chiang Mai. Tha Thong Rd, Surat Thani. ∑ songserm-
∑ railway.co.th/English Tel 0-5324-2664. Tel 0-7720-0032. expressboat.com
478  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Renting a Car, Moped,
or Bicycle
Driving in Thailand is not for the faint-hearted. Hazards come
in the form of potholed roads, confusing intersections, and
dangerous driving. However, the main expressways, prefixed
“AH” (Asia Highway), are excellent, with rest areas, shops, and
refreshments. For those visitors who want to explore away
from the usual tour routes, the best option may be to hire a
car with a driver who is used to the roads. International car
rental firms operate in Bangkok and provincial capitals. The
standard of local rental companies varies enormously.
Hiring a Chauffeur-
Driven Car
Hiring an experienced driver
with a car is gaining popularity
in Thailand. The cost can be
Sign for a local car rental company: surprisingly low – often less
check if insurance is included than 50 percent extra on top of
the normal price of car rental.
Renting a Car Some drivers are knowledge-
A valid international driver’s able about sights and will
license is a necessity for most suggest interesting itineraries.
visitors, while those from Most car rental firms can
ASEAN countries (Association of arrange drivers. Siam Express
Southeast Asian Nations) need offers packages including
only have a license from their a chauffeur, car, and
home countries. International accommodation in a wide
rental agencies offer safe cars range of hotels.
and the most extensive
insurance and backup services.
Avis, Budget, and Hertz have Renting a Moped
desks at some airports and in Mopeds and motorcycles are
major cities. Charges range from widely available for rent in the
about 1,800 baht for a day to resorts, provincial capitals, and
35,000 baht for a month. other large towns. If you have
With other car rental never driven a motorbike before
companies, you should check it’s best to rent one of the small
the small print on the contract automatic gear 80cc bikes.
for liabilities. Insurance may not Driver’s licenses are rarely
be included. Obtain a copy of requested, and few firms bother
the vehicle registration and carry with insurance. Costs are low:
it around with you. You should 200–400 baht is average for a
also have with you your passport day’s rental. Safety precautions
and driving license, or at the are essential. Check tires, oil, and
very least good copies of these. brakes before you set out.
Wear a helmet
(compulsory in
Thailand) and
proper shoes.
Long sleeves
and trousers
will minimize
cuts and grazes
in a minor
accident. Take
care on dirt
roads and avoid
driving alone in
Mopeds and motorcycles for rent rural areas.
Gasoline and Servicing
Gas stations in Thailand are well
manned and are located on
main roads in towns and along
highways. They are modern and
most provide unleaded gas.
Attendants will fill your tank,
wash your windows, and pump
up your tires. Some garages
have a resident mechanic, or
will at least be able to
recommend one. Most of them
have a small general shop, and
all have Asian toilet facilities.
Many garages open 24 hours,
while others close at 8pm.
Logo of PTT, a gasoline company with
stations throughout Thailand
Parking
Multistory parking lots in
Bangkok are generally attached
to major hotels and department
stores. Parking is usually free for
hotel guests, and for visitors for
up to two or three hours.
A ticket is issued on entry and
should be stamped by a cashier;
pay on the way out. Apart from
these arrangements, parking
can be difficult in Bangkok.
Throughout Thailand,
pavements painted with red
and white stripes indicate a
no-parking zone. In provincial
cities, many hotels and large
guesthouses provide free parking
facilities for guests. In quieter
towns you can generally park
anywhere that is not obstructive.
Roads
In addition to regular roads,
multilane elevated highways can
be found in and around Bangkok.
A toll is charged to travel on
these expressways, including the
ones to the airports. The fees vary
but are indicated above the
booth – the exact change is
required at manually operated
booths. The expressways are less
congested than other Bangkok
roads, but they are still prone
to traffic jams. Many roads in

Traffic policeman waving vehicles through
at a Bangkok intersection
Bangkok are one-way, though a
lane may be reserved for buses
moving in the opposite direction
during peak hours. Be sure to
look both ways when crossing
the road at these times.
There are four major highways
leading out of Bangkok. These
are good dual carriageways,
with AH1 and AH4 part of the
Asia Highway network. In more
rural and jungle areas, a concrete
road may turn into a dirt track.
Main roads in towns are called
thanons; numbered lanes
leading off these are called sois
and trawks. In the rainy season,
all roads can become flooded.
The signage on main roads is
very good, in both English and
Thai. Driving is on the left, but
be aware of the dangers of
night driving. Motorcyclists in
dark clothing and with no lights
may suddenly appear on the
wrong side of the road.
Rules of the Road
Driving is on the left. The
speed limit is 60 kph (35 mph)
within city limits, unless signed
otherwise, and 80 kph (50 mph)
on open roads. On expressways
and major highways the speed
limit is 110 kph (70 mph). The
standard international road
rules apply, but are of little
interest to Thais. The only
consistent rule of thumb is
that “size wins.”
The eccentric use of indicators
and headlights can be
unnerving. A left signal can
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  479
indicate to another driver that DIRECTORY
it is alright to pass, while a right
signal can indicate hazardous Highway Police
oncoming traffic, and a flash Tel 1193.
of the headlights means:
“I’m coming through.”
Car Rental
Horns are not used enough Bangkok
as Thais tend to see them as Avis
impolite. When they are used it 2/12 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd.
is often as a warning of presence Tel 0-2251-1131.
rather than obvious danger. ∑ avisthailand.com
Drivers think nothing of straddling Budget
lanes and passing on curves and 19/23 Royal City Avenue.
up hill. Yield to larger vehicles at Tel 0-2203-9294.
unmarked intersections. It is ∑ budget.co.th
legal to turn left at red lights if
Hertz Rent a Car
there is a blue sign with a white
72/8–9 North Sathorn Rd,
left arrow, or occasionally if you Silom, Bangkok.
are in the left lane. On minor Tel 0-2266-4666.
roads, beware of animals. ∑ hertzthailand.com
Traffic fines are most comm-
only imposed for illegal turns. Chiang Mai
If you get a ticket and your license Avis
Chiang Mai Airport.
is taken, go to the local police
Tel 0-5320-1574.
station, the address of which
will be on the ticket, and pay Budget
the fine. Drive slowly through Chiang Mai Airport.
army checkpoints in border Tel 0-5320-2871.
areas, and be prepared to stop. Hat Yai
Avis
Hat Yai Airport.
Tel 0-7422-7259.
Ko Samui
Avis
Samui Airport.
Tel 08-4700-8161.
Pattaya
Avis
Dusit Resort Pattaya,
240 Pattaya Beach Road,
Typical road scene with several lanes
Pattaya, Hotel Lobby.
of one-way traffic Tel 0-3836-1627/8.
Phuket
Road Maps Avis
Tourist maps are widely Meridien Hotel, Karon Noi Beach.
Tel 0-7634-0480.
available but cover major roads
only. Some provincial, foldout Chauffeur-Driven Car
maps produced by the Prannok
Witthaya Map Center are useful, Siam Express
showing all roads and reliefs. 485/8-10, 2nd-4th Floor, Silom Rd,
The Thailand Highways Map by Bangkok.
the Auto Guide Company and Tel 0-2238-4412.
the Thailand Highway Map by
the Roads Association are the
best atlases, and are written in bicycles for rent for 20–100 baht
Thai and Roman scripts. a day, though the bikes may be
rickety. New mountain bikes
may be available, but, perhaps
Renting a Bicycle surprisingly, costs may exceed
In the cool season, cycling in those of mopeds. Taking plenty
quiet areas is a pleasant way to of water is essential and, of
get around. Guesthouses and course, great care is always
small agencies often have necessary on the roads.
480  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Local Transportation
Transportation in the provinces is certainly less frenetic than
in Bangkok: bicycle rickshas (samlors) and colorful tuk-tuks
run alongside services such as songthaews, and bargaining
for the fare on samlors is part of the Thai experience. Do not
climb on before agreeing a price, or you may be taken for a A songthaew – uncomfortable, but cheaper
ride in more ways than one. The one city outside of Bangkok and safer than a tuk-tuk
to run its own bus service is Chiang Mai and this has only
been in operation a few years, so the most convenient form In heavy traffic or during the
of transportation in most towns and resorts is the rainy season, tuk-tuks can be
uncomfortable and unstable,
ubiquitous songthaew. but are always popular with
tourists. Nonmotorized samlors
are often in the form of bicycle
Taxis starting out. Routes are some­ rickshas. You should negotiate a
Meter taxis operate in Bangkok, times written in English on the price in advance: 30–60 baht is
Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Hat Yai, sides of the vans. On the whole reasonable for short hops.
and Pattaya and are distinguish­ they don’t usually have a termi­
able by the “Taxi­Meter” sign on nus but cluster around large
the roof. Drivers tend to know markets and shopping centers. Long-tail Boats
only the names and locations of Songthaews can be hailed Thailand is a country of water­
the major hotels and sights. In anywhere along a route and will ways, especially in the central
nonmeter taxis, mainly found stop just about anywhere. To let region around Bangkok, and
in Ko Samui and Phuket, the driver know you need to where there’s a waterway there’s
you need to bargain for get off, press one of the buzzers a long­tail boat waiting to take
the fare before located along the passengers. The water­taxis in
getting in. inner side of the Bangkok should be used with
Motorcycle roof. Songthaews caution; passengers are often
taxis operate Roof sign of a metered taxi can be rented splashed by dirty canal water.
in some towns. like taxis, but Other areas of the country, such
Drivers tend to congregate near are far less comfortable. as Krabi, also play host to a
markets and long sois (streets) variety of long­tail boats. The
and can be identified by their greatest drawback of these
colorful numbered vests. Prices Samlors and Tuk-tuks elegant boats is the extremely
are negotiated. Although Samlors are three­wheeled noisy diesel engines clamped to
motorcycle taxis are sometimes vehicles that can transport one the back. A maximum of twenty
the quickest way to get between or two people up to a few passengers is the norm and
two points think twice about kilometers. Motorized samlors costs vary depending on
using them as they are not the are known as tuk-tuks – their whether the boat has been
safest form of transportation. two­stroke engines, introduced privately hired. Expect to pay
They are also not practical if you by the Japanese during World around 200 baht an hour to rent
are hauling a suitcase. War II, are notoriously noisy. a boat privately (see p78).
Shared taxis are not too
common except in the Deep
South where it’s possible to
share a taxi between Hat Yai and
the Malaysian border and
beyond. Drivers wait for cars to
fill up, usually with a maximum
of six people, before departing.

Songthaews
Songthaews (literally translated
as “two rows”) are vans with two
rows of seats in the back. They
are more common than city
buses outside Bangkok and run
popular routes for set fares,
typically between 20 and 40
baht. Drivers may wait until they
are at least half full before Three-wheeled bicycle ricksha, or samlor, in a seaside resort
 T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  481

Getting Around Bangkok and are also the most frequent

(they have a set fare of 14 baht).
Following years of chronic traffic congestion, Bangkok Ferries also link east and
launched the mass-transit BTS Skytrain in 1999 and the west banks.
underground MRT in 2004. These fast, clean, relatively
cheap services, in conjunction with the Chao Phraya Buses
Express riverboats, have revolutionized travel in the city. The Tourist Map Bangkok City and
(For a map of the MRT and Skytrain network, see the back Tour ‘n’ Guide Map Bangkok show
endpaper.) Unfortunately, these services don’t cover the bus routes. Blue air-conditioned
whole city and a huge fleet of sometimes dirty, noisy buses buses (“AC” in the transport
fill in the gaps. Older, smoke- belching buses have mostly details for each Bangkok sight),
and white metrobuses (indicated
been replaced over the last few years by new, cleaner ones, by “M”) are comfortable and
but there is a long way to go before Bangkok’s streets are cover the popular routes.
pollution free. Ordinary (non air-conditioned)
buses are cheap, cover all of
Bangkok, and run all night.
MRT
The MRT (Mass Rapid
Transit) underground Taxis
runs 12 miles (20 km) Metered taxis operate all over
from Hua Lampong Bangkok. The minimum fare is
Station to Bang Sue in 35 baht for the first kilometer and
the north of Bangkok. then 5 baht per kilometer for
There are at present the second to the 12th kilometer.
18 stations with more Some taxi drivers will attempt
planned for the not to use the meter and try to
future. Silom and charge a fixed fare, it is always
Sukhumvit stations best to insist on the meter.
connect with the
Bangkok’s mass-transit BTS Skytrain BTS Skytrain network.
Trains run daily every 4 to 10 On Foot
BTS Skytrain minutes from 6am to midnight. Bangkok is not much of a place
Downtown, the efficient, fast Fares range from 16 to 41 baht for exploring on foot. Walking
BTS Skytrain has two lines: the with black tokens issued for a areas that might be considered
Sukhumvit route from Morchit single journey. Unlimited 1-, 3-, include the Ratanakosin District
Station in the north to Onnut and 30-day passes cost 120, 230, around the Grand Palace
Station in the east, and the Silom and 1,200 baht respectively. and Wat Pho, and parts of
route from the National Stadium Chinatown between Sampeng
to Wongwian Yai in Thonburi, Lane and Yaowarat Road. Other
with an interchange between Waterways than this it’s best to take local
the two at the Siam Center. Chao Phraya Express boats transport between sights.
The Sukhumvit line is being serve popular piers on the Chao
extended to Baering, in the Bang Phraya River. The company runs DIRECTORY
Na District of eastern Bangkok, different routes recognizable by
and is due to open in 2017. the color of flag each is flying. Transportation in
The airport rail link has an Tickets are purchased on board Bangkok
express service from the Phaya and range from 10 to 29 baht
Thai and Makkasan stations. The depending on the flag. The Airport Rail Link
Tel 1690.
City line makes eight stops along orange flag boats are the most
∑ bangkokairporttrain.com
the same route, serving areas useful as they stop at all piers
east of downtown. BTS Skytrain
Trains run daily every 3 to 1000 Phahonyothin Rd.
6 minutes from 6:30am to Tel 0-2617-6000 (Hotline).
midnight. Fares are calculated ∑ bts.co.th
by distance, and magnetic fare Chao Phraya Express
cards are sold at all stations in Tel 0-2445-8888.
values from 15 to 40 baht. ∑ chaophrayaexpressboat.com
Several passes are available, but MRT
of most interest to the visitor is 189 Rama IX Rd.
the One-Day Pass costing 120 Tel 0-2354-2000.
baht and offering limitless use ∑ bangkokmetro.co.th
of the Skytrain. Chao Phraya Express
482  GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to
main entries
A Angkor Wat 61, 87, 268, 269
Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall
(Bangkok) 107, 109
Acclimatization 466
Accommodation see Hotels
Achutarat, King of Chiang Saen
247
Adaptors 461
Admission prices 459
AIDS 120, 467
Air sports 451, 453
Air travel 472–4
advance booking 458
air fares 472
airports 472–3
domestic flights 474
Air-conditioned buses see Buses
Airport rail link (Bangkok) 473,
481
Akha tribespeople 210–211, 243
arts and crafts 212
Mae Salong 247
Mae Saruai 256
Saam Yekh Akha 250
Wiang Pa Pao 256
Aksra Theatre (Bangkok) 146, 147,
442, 445
Alcazar (Pattaya) 443, 445
Alcohol, customs allowances
459
Aleenta Resort & Spa Phang Nga
454, 455
Alliance Française (Bangkok) 443,
445
Amaravadee Antiques (Chiang
Mai) 438, 439
Amarin Plaza (Bangkok) 142, 143
Ambulances 464, 465
Amebic dysentery 467
American Express 468
Amulets 49, 83, 438
Ananda Mahidol (Rama VIII), King
72, 89
Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall
(Bangkok) 95, 109, 111
Anantara Golden Triangle Resort
& Spa 448, 452
Anantara Ko Samui 454, 455
Anantara Resort & Spa Hua Hin
454, 455
Ancient Capitals of Thailand 10,
14
Ancient City (Bangkok) 141
Andaman Sea
coral reefs 352
dugongs 385
sea gypsies 367
Trang’s Andaman islands 384
Upper Andaman Coast 357–77
Ang Thong 176 Asian Institute of Gemological
Angelini (Bangkok) 443, 445 Sciences (Bangkok) 438, 439
Angkhan Kalyanaphong 291 Association of Physically
Handicapped People
Anglican Christ Church (Bangkok) (Nonthaburi) 460, 461
119 Association of Southeast Asian
Angling 447, 452 Nations see ASEAN
Angthong National Marine Park Assumption Cathedral (Bangkok)
17, 310, 344–5 117, 118
map 344 Assumption College (Bangkok)
Animal-borne diseases 467 118
Animals see Wildlife Astral Gemstone Talismans
Animism 211 (Bangkok) 438, 439
Antique Textile Exhibition Hall Athitayarai, King of Haripunchai
(Bangkok) 106 233
Antiques Automatic Teller Machines (ATMs)
customs information 459 468
shops 143, 438, 439 Avis (car hire) 478, 479
Anuwong Ayodhya 44
Prince of Vientiane 279 see also Ayutthaya
Ao Bang Bao 326 Ayutthaya 163, 169, 180–85
Ao Kui 322 Ancient Capitals of Thailand 10,
Ao Nang 374 14
Ao Nuan 322 foreigners in 166–7
Ao Phai 16, 322 hotels 403–4
Ao Phrao 323 maps 57, 166–7, 181
Ao Sa Lak Phet 11, 16, 326 in the Ramakien 44
Ao Toei 16 religious architecture 39
Ao Wong Duan 322 restaurants 421
apartments, serviced 399 Wat Phra Si Sanphet 39, 182–3
Apsonsi 85 see also Ayutthaya Kingdom
Arabs 350 Ayutthaya Historical Study Center
Aranyik Ruins (Kamphaeng Phet) 14, 182
197 Ayutthaya Kingdom 57, 64–5,
Architecture 66–7
Bangkok’s modern architecture Lop Buri 178
123 Mekong River Valley 287
Chaiya’s role 336 Ubon Ratchathani 306
religious architecture 38–9
Srivijayan architecture 351 B
traditional Thai houses 40–41 Bacillary dysentery 467
Area codes 471 Backpacker hostels 399
Arlymear Travel (Bangkok) 475 Bai semas (boundary stones) 164
Army Stadium (Bangkok) 444, Baiyoke Tower I (Bangkok) 123
445 Baiyoke Tower II (Bangkok) 123
Art 29 “Ballad of Phu Kradung” 291
arts and crafts shops 143, 436, Ballooning 451, 453
439 Bamboo 437, 439
gestures of the Buddha 177 Bamboo Bar (Bangkok) 443, 445
Sukhothai art 164–5 Bamrung Muang Road (Bangkok)
see also Museums and galleries 94
Art Corner (Bangkok) 443, 445 Ban Bat (Bangkok) 94
Art of Thai food 42–3 Ban Chiang 58–9, 273, 276, 303
Aruna 130 hotels 407
Asanha Bucha 53 pottery 58–9
ASEAN (Association of Southeast Ban Chiang National Museum 59,
Asian Nations) 25, 72 276
map 72 Ban Kao 58, 59, 174
ASEAN Barred Ground Dove Fair Ban Ko Noi, Sukhothai-era kilns
(Yala) 52, 394 165
Asia Books (Bangkok) 143, 435, Ban Kok see Thon Buri
439 Ban Muang 294

Ban Muang, King 62
Ban Na Di 59
Ban Pa Yuang 203
Ban Phe 321
Ban Phitsanulok (Bangkok) 110
Ban Prathup Chai (Phrae) 263
Ban Sao Nak (Lampang) 240, 241
Ban Ta Klang 283
Ban Ton Sai (Ko Phi Phi) 17, 376
Ban Winai 294
Ban Yipun (Ayutthaya) 185
Bang Niew Temple (Phuket town)
17, 364
Bang Pa-in 185
Bang Phli, festivals 51, 54
Bang Phra Reservoir 320
Bang Sai Folk Arts and Crafts
Center 436, 439
Bangkok 74–159
airport see Don Muang Airport;
Suvarnabhumi International
Airport
Ancient Capitals of Thailand 10,
14
BTS Skytrain 481
bus terminals 477
car rental 479
Chinatown 99–103
Don Muang Airport 473, 474
Downtown Bangkok 115–25
Dusit 105–111
early Chakri dynasty 68–9
entertainment 146–7
Farther Afield 135–41
festivals 50, 52–5
foundation of 57
hospitals 465
hotels 402–3
local transportation 481
map: Bangkok City Center see
Back Endpaper
map: Bangkok and Environs 20
map: Street Finder 148–59
markets 144–5
Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) 481
modern architecture 123
Old City 81–97
railroad stations 476, 477
restaurants 418–20
river view of 78–9
shopping 142–3
Suvarnabhumi International
Airport 472–3
taxis 481
Thon Buri 127–33
tourist police 464, 465
Two Days in Bangkok 10, 12
Western writers in 119
Bangkok Airways 474
Bangkok Art and Culture Center
122, 443, 445
“Bangkok belly” 466
GENERAL INDEX
Bangkok Bicentennial (1982) 72
Bangkok Planetarium 140
Bangkok Playhouse/Art Corner
443, 445
Banglamphu Market (Bangkok)
144
Bangpra Golf Course (Pattaya)
312
Bangrak 10, 17, 341
Bangrak Market (Bangkok) 119,
145
Bank of America (Bangkok) 468
Bank of Ayudhya (Bangkok) 468
Bank notes 469
Banking 468–9
Banthat Mountains 385, 392
Banyan Tree Spa Phuket 454, 455
Banyan Valley cave 58
Bargaining 463
in hotels 401
in shops 142, 434
Barges see Royal barges
Barot, Prince 299
Bars 147, 443, 445
Bayinnaung, King of Burma 184
BCG 466
Beach Road (Pattaya) 16, 321
Beaches
Cha-am 334–5
Gulf of Thailand 312–13
Hua Hin 335
Ko Chang 326
Ko Pha Ngan 343
Ko Samui 340–42
Pattaya 321
Phuket 17, 362, 366
Rayong 321
Thailand’s Southern Beaches 10,
17
Upper Andaman Coast 358
Benjasiri Park (Bangkok) 140
Betel-chewing 213
Betong 395
Bhirasi
Silpa 91, 132
Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX),
King 28, 462
becomes king 72
Chitrlada Palace (Bangkok) 110
Coronation Day 52
ends military coup (1992) 73
Grand Palace (Bangkok) 89
His Majesty the King’s Birthday
55
Khao Kho 205
as a monk 34, 90
and the opium trade 237
Phra That Naphamataneedon
(Doi Inthanon) 234
royal barges 128
Trooping of the Colors 50, 111
Wat Bowonniwet (Bangkok) 90
 483
Bhumibol Reservoir 236
Bicycles, renting 479
Big Buddha beach see Bangrak
Bilharzia 467
Birds
Bang Phra Reservoir 320
Khao Phanom Bencha National
Park 374
Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park
336
Northern Thailand 214–15
Thale Noi Waterfowl Park 389
tips for bird-watching 215
see also Wildlife
Bird’s-nest soup 345
Bites
animal 467
snake 466
Blood transfusions 467
Bo Be Market (Bangkok) 145
Bo Rai 325
Bo Sang 232
crafts 212
festivals 50, 55
Boat trips 449, 453
Boats
Chao Phraya Express Boats 449,
453, 481
island ferries 477
korlae fishing boats 349, 394
long-tail 480
organized tours 475
riverboats on the Chao Phraya
River 78, 481
Royal Barge Museum (Bangkok)
128–9
sailing 447, 452
sea canoeing 447, 452
traditional boat races in Nan 54,
259
whitewater rafting 447, 452
Bodhi trees 36, 177
Body language 462
Boisselier, Jean 269
Bond, James 129, 370, 371
Bookazine (Bangkok) 143, 435
Booking
airline tickets 458
entertainment tickets 146,
442
hotels 400
Bookstores 143, 435, 439
Bophut 17, 341
Bor Kor Sor (BKS) 477
Borisoothi Antiques (Chiang Mai)
438, 439
Borommakot, King
Wat Na Phra Men (Ayutthaya)
184
Wat Phu Khao Thong
(Ayutthaya) 184
Borommaracha I, King 180
484  GENERAL INDEX
Borommaracha II, King 64
Wat Maheyong (Ayutthaya) 185
Wat Ratchaburana (Ayutthaya)
180
Borommaracha III, King 183
Borommaracha IV, King 182
Borommatrailokanat, King 64
Wang Luang (Ayutthaya) 180
Wat Chulamani 205
Wat Phra Ram (Ayutthaya) 181
Wat Phra Si Sanphet (Ayutthaya)
182–3
Boromphiman Mansion 89
Bots 37
Bovorn Bazaar (Nakhon Si
Thammarat) 383
Bowring, Sir John 68, 89
Bowring Treaty (1855) 68, 69
Boxing, Thai see Muay thai
Bridge over the Khwae Yai River
175
British Airways 472, 474
Bronze Age 58–9
Phayao 256
Brown Sugar Jazz Boutique
(Bangkok) 443, 445
BTS Skytrain 481
Buddha
“Buddha’s shadow” 176
Enlightenment 35, 177
festivals 50–51, 52–5
Footprints of the Buddha 176
gestures of 177
Golden Buddha 102
Ho Phra Buddha Sing Shrine
383
Luang Pho Phra Sai Buddha 296
Nak Buddha 87
Phitsanulok Buddha 164–5
Phra Buddha Chinarat 205
relics of 37, 86, 108, 247, 299,
301
“Walking” Buddha 63, 164
Wat Indrawihan (Bangkok) 108
see also Emerald Buddha
Buddha Foundry (Phitsanulok)
205
Buddhadhasa Bhikkhu 337
Buddhaisawan Chapel (Bangkok)
78, 92
Buddhism 25, 34–5
and the arts 29
cultural study courses 451, 453,
460
elephants in 257
festivals 50–51, 52–5
King Bhumibol Adulyadej
(Rama IX) as a monk 34, 90
Mahayana Buddhism 34
meditation 35, 451, 453
monkhood 28, 34
naga figures 232
Phi Ta Khon Festival 51, 293
popular Buddhist rituals 133
Sri Lankan influence 202
Buddhism (cont.)
Thammayut sect 307
Theravada Buddhism 34–5
wats 36–7
Buddhist Rains Retreat 53
Budget (car hire) 478, 479
Budget hotels 399
Bun Bang Fai (Rocket Festival)
(Yasothon) 51, 52, 275, 278
Bung Phlan Chai 273
Bungee jumping 450, 453
Buriram, restaurants 426
Burma see Myanmar
Burma-Siam Railroad 172
bridge over the Khwae Yai River
175
Burma-Siam Railroad Memorial
Trail 173
Kanchanaburi 174
Burmese Kingdom 65, 66–7
Burney Treaty (1826) 69
Buses
local (Bangkok) 481
long-distance buses 476
organized tours 475
provincial buses 477
Business facilities see
Communications
Butterflies 236
C Caving 450, 453
Cabbages and Condoms
(Bangkok) 436, 439
Calendar 460–61
Calypso Cabaret (Bangkok) 146,
147, 443, 445
Cambodia
Angkor Wat 61, 87, 268, 269
Embassy 459
entry from 474
Prasat Khao Phra Wihan 306
Siamese rule 69, 71, 87
visas 459
Camping 400
Canadian Embassy 459
Candle Festival (Ubon
Ratchathani) 51, 53
Canoeing 447, 452
Carmelite Convent (Bangkok) 119
Cars
chauffeur-driven cars 478
customs information 459
gas and servicing 478
parking 478
renting 478–9
road signs 479
rules of the road 479
see also Tours by car
Cartland, Barbara 119
Cathedrals
Assumption Cathedral
(Bangkok) 117, 118
Church of the Immaculate
Conception (Chanthaburi)
324–5
Cats 279
Cave paintings 59, 299
Upper Andaman Coast 377
Caves
Khao Ngu 136
Khao Wong 323
Phangnga Bay 368, 371
Phu Phrabat Historical Park 59,
299
Sai Yok National Park 173
Tam Muang On 233
Tham Buabok 345
Tham Chang Hai 385
Tham Chiang Dao 224
Tham Khao Luang 328, 334
Tham Lot (Soppong) 223, 450
Tham Luang 250
Tham Morakhot (Ko Muk) 384
Tham Pha Tup Forest Reserve
259
Tham Phraya Nakon 336
Tham Pla (Chiang Rai province)
250
Tham Pla (Mae Hong Son
province) 222
Tham Pum 250
Tham Sai 336
Tham Tup Tao 224
Tham Wang Badan 173
Wat Tham Sua (Krabi) 375
Cemeteries
Chong Kai Cemetery 174, 175
Kanchanaburi War Cemetery
174, 175
POW Cemetery (Kanchanaburi)
170
Central Department Store
(Bangkok) 435, 439
Central Pattaya Festival Beach
Shopping 435, 439
Central Plains 26, 161–205
festivals 50
hotels 403–5
map 162–3
North Central Plains 191–205
restaurants 421–2
South Central Plains 169–89
traditional Thai houses 40–41
CentralWorld Plaza (Bangkok)
142, 143, 435, 439
Ceramics
Ban Chiang 58–9
Dan Kwian 279
Sangkhalok 63, 164, 165, 204
shops 437, 439
Sukhothai-era kilns 165, 203
What to Buy in Thailand 441
Cha-am 329, 334–5
beach 312
hotels 409
restaurants 429
Chaem River Valley 236
Chaiya 336, 337, 350
Chaiya National Museum 337
 GENERAL INDEX  485

Chaiyaphum, hotels 407 Cheng Weng, Princess 300 Chinitz, John 88

Chakri Day 52 Chiang Dao 217 Chitrlada Palace (Bangkok) 84,
Chakri dynasty 10, 44, 57 Doi Chiang Dao 10, 13, 224 110
Bangkok Bicentennial (1982) 72 hotels 405 Chitrlada Shop (Bangkok) 436,
early Chakri dynasty 68–9 trekking around 225 439
Grand Palace and Wat Phra Chiang Khan 11, 15, 294 Chiva-Som International Health
Kaeo (Bangkok) 84–9 hotels 407 Resort (Hua Hin) 454, 455
Royal Paraphernalia Museum Mekong villages tour 294 Cho fas 37
(Bangkok) 106 restaurants 427 Choeng Mon 341
Chalermchai Kositpipat 255 Chiang Khong 253 Chom Thong 236
Chalieng see Si Satchanalai- Golden Triangle driving tour 251 Chompupan 44
Chalieng Historical Park hotels 406 Chong Kai Cemetery 174, 175
Chaloem Rattanakosin National restaurants 424 Chong Kham Lake (Mae Hong
Park 175 Chiang Mai 208, 217, 228–31 Son) 221
Chaloklam 343 airport 473 Chong Mek 303
Chamadevi of Lop Buri 60 Ancient Capitals of Thailand 10, Christ Church (Bangkok) 460, 461
Chan and In (Siamese twins) 129 14 Christianity 179
Chan Kasem Palace (Ayutthaya) bus terminal 477 Dusit’s Christian Churches
180 car rental 479 (Bangkok) 108
Chanthaburi 11, 16, 317, 324–5 festivals 50, 52, 55 see also Churches
gemstones 314–15 history 65, 66–7 Chui Tui Temple (Phuket town)
hotels 408 hospital 465 17, 365
restaurants 428 hotels 405 Chulachakrabongse, Prince 335
Chanthara Phisan Hall (Lop Buri) map 21, 231 Chulalongkorn Day (Bangkok) 54
171 restaurants 422–4 Chulalongkorn (Rama V), King 57,
Chao Fa Mung Muang shrine Songkran festivities in the 69
(Mukdahan) 302 North 240 Bang Pa-in Palace 185
Chao Pho Kut Pong (Loei) 293 Street-by-Street map 228–9 becomes king 69
Chao Phraya Chakri (Rama I), King tourist police 465 Chanthaburi 325
68, 127 train station 477 Chulalongkorn University
Chakri Day 52 Two Days in Chiang Mai 10, (Bangkok) 121
Chiang Saen 252 12–13 cremation of 70–71
and Chinatown 99 wats 229 Dusit (Bangkok) 105
Giant Swing (Bangkok) 94, 95 Chiang Mai Cabaret 443, 445 Dusit Park (Bangkok) 106
Grand Palace (Bangkok) 68, 88, Chiang Mai National Museum 231 Dusit Zoo (Bangkok) 109
89 Chiang Mai Rock Climbing festivals 54
Luang Pho Phra Sai Buddha Adventures 450, 453 Golden Mount (Bangkok) 91
296 Chiang Rai 13, 66, 209, 243, Grand Palace and Wat Phra
Phra Buddha Sihing 92 254–5 Kaeo (Bangkok) 84, 88, 89
royal barges 128 hotels 406 Hua Lamphong Station
Wat Pho 96 map 255 (Bangkok) 102
Wat Phra Kaeo 86, 87 restaurants 424–5 Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park
Wat Rakhang (Bangkok) 129 Chiang Rai Handicraft Center 436, 336
Wat Saket (Bangkok) 91 439 and kite-flying 83
Wat Suthat (Bangkok) 94 Chiang Saen 10, 13, 252–3 Namtok Phlio National Park
Wat Suwan Dararam Golden Triangle driving tour 325
(Ayutthaya) 182 251 Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical
Wat Suwannaram (Bangkok) hotels 406 Park 334
128 restaurants 425 Phra Pathom Chedi (Nakhon
Chao Phraya Express Boats 449, Chiang Saen National Museum Pathom) 138
453 253 Phuket town 364
map see Back Endpaper Children 460 reign of 70–71
Chao Phraya River 26, 57, 169 in hotels 401 statues of 118–19
Paknam Incident (1893) 71 China House (Bangkok) 117 Summer Palace (Ko Sichang)
river view of Bangkok 78–9 Chinatown (Bangkok) 99–103 320–21
Chao Sam Phraya National area map 99 Tak Bai 395
Museum (Ayutthaya) 182 hotels 402 Tansadet waterfall 343
Charoen Krung Road (Bangkok) restaurants 418 Vimanmek Mansion (Bangkok)
118–19 Street-by-Street map 100–101 108–9
Chatuchak Market 139, 142 Chinese Mansions (Phuket town) Wang Luang (Ayutthaya) 181
Chauffeur-driven cars 478 17, 364 Wat Benchamabophit
Chaumont, Chevalier de 166 Chinese Nationalist Army see (Bangkok) 110–111
Chaweng beach 17, 330, 341, Kuomintang Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 86
342 Chinese New Year 55 Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat
Chedis 37 Chinese in Thailand 25, 103 (Phitsanulok) 205
486  GENERAL INDEX
Chulalongkorn (Rama V),
King (cont.)
Wat Rachabophit (Bangkok)
94–5
Chulalongkorn University
(Bangkok) 121
Chumbhot, Prince and Princess
123
Chumphon 336
restaurants 429
Chumphon, Prince 336
Churches
Assumption Cathedral
(Bangkok) 117, 118
Church of the Immaculate
Conception (Bangkok) 108
Church of the Immaculate
Conception (Chanthaburi) 324–5
Church of Santa Cruz (Bangkok)
132
Dusit’s Christian Churches
(Bangkok) 108
Holy Redeemer Catholic
Church (Bangkok) 460, 461
International Church (Bangkok)
461
St. Francis Xavier Church
(Bangkok) 108
St. Joseph’s Church (Ayutthaya)
166, 184
Cigarettes
customs allowances 459
see also Smoking
CIMB Thai (Bangkok) 468
Cinema 29, 146, 147, 443, 445
Citibank (Bangkok) 468
Climate 52–5
coping with the heat 466
monsoon 30–31
when to go 458
Climbing see Rock-climbing
Clothes
coping with the heat 466
shops 143, 436, 439
suitable dress 463
What to Buy in Thailand 441
what to take 460
see also Fabrics
Coastal forest 33
Coedès, George 269
Coffee shops 412
Comedy shows 443, 445
Commercial Co. of Siam
(Bangkok) 117
Commonwealth War Graves
Commission 174
Communicating 463
Communications 470–71
Communications Authority of
Thailand (CAT) 470
Communists
Chiang Khong 253
Communist Party of Malaya 395
Communist Party of Thailand
(CPT) 292
Communists (cont.) Debit cards 469
Doi Phu Kha 258 Deep South 379–95
and Kuomintang 246 hotels 411
Phu Hin Rong Kla 292 map 380–81
and the Vietnam War 72 restaurants 433
Concerts 443, 445 Dehydration 466
Confucianism, Leng Noi Yee Delaporte, Louis 269
Temple (Bangkok) 101, 103 Delta 472, 474
Congdon Museum of Anatomy Democracy Monument
(Bangkok) 129 (Bangkok) 72, 91, 111
Conrad, Joseph 119 Dengue fever 467
“Conservatives” 70 Department stores 434–5,
Conversion chart 461 439
Cookery schools 451, 453 opening hours 460
Cool season 54–5 Desserts 417
Coral reefs 352–3 Destination spas 454–5
coral cuts 466 Deutsche Bank (Bangkok)
diving and snorkeling 446 468
Coronation Day 52 Devawongse, Prince 70
Cotton, shopping for 142, 143 DHL 471
Courier services 471 Dialing codes 471
Coward, NoÙl 119 Diarrhea 466
CPT (Communist Party of Diethelm Travel (Bangkok)
Thailand) 292 475
Crafts Diners Club 468
crafts centers 435, 439 Diphtheria 466
Hill Tribe Museum (Chiang Rai) Disabled travellers 460
255 in hotels 401
Northern Arts and Crafts Discos 443, 445
212–13 Diseases
shops 143, 436, 439 food- and water-borne 467
SUPPORT Museum (Bangkok) insect-borne 466–7
109 people- and animal-borne
Crawfurd, John 88 467
Credit cards 469 Diving 313, 446–7, 452
safety 464 Chumphon 336
in shops 142, 434 Ko Surin and Ko Similan 361
Cremation ceremonies 35 Ko Tao 345
Crime 464–5 scuba diving 353
Crocodile Farm (Bangkok) 141 Tarutao National Marine Park
Cultural study 451, 453 392
Currency 469 Doctors 465
Currency exchange 468–9 Doi Ang Khang 246
Curries 417 Doi Chiang Dao 224
Customs information 459 Doi Inthanon National Park 208,
Cuts and bites 466 217, 234–5
Cycling 450, 453, 479 Doi Mae Salong 247
Golden Triangle driving tour
D 250
Dam, Sirindhorn 303 see also Mae Salong
Damnoen Saduak Floating Doi Phu Kha National Park
Market 27, 136 258
Dan Kwian 279 Doi Saket 232
Dan Sai Doi Suthep 12, 226–7
festivals 51, 53 Doi Suthep-Doi Pui National Park
Phi Ta Khon Festival 293 226
Dan Sun Kingdom 59 Doi Tung 13, 209, 247
Dance Golden Triangle driving tour
dance-drama see Khon; Lakhon; 251
Likay Doi Tung Royal Villa 13,
traditional dance 146, 147, 442, 247
445 Don Chedi 176
Danger spots 464 Don Chedi Memorial Fair 55
Day spas 455 Don Muang Airport (Bangkok)
Day trips 475 473, 474
 GENERAL INDEX  487

Don Tha Phet, prehistoric artifacts Elephants (cont.) Etiquette 28, 462–3
58, 59 royal white elephants 110 eating habits 413
Dong Sak Ngan Forest 256 Surin Elephant Roundup 54, Exchange rates 468–9
Dong Son 350 275, 282, 283 Exhibitions 443, 445
Dong Son people 382 Thai Elephant Conservation Exo Travel (Bangkok) 475
Dongrek Mountains 306 Center 219, 241 Exposition, as a gesture of the
Downtown Bangkok 115–25 White Elephant Monument (Doi Buddha 177
area map 115 Suthep) 226 Expressways 478–9
hotels 402–3 Embassies 459
Jim Thompson House 124–5 emergencies 465 F
Old Farang Quarter 116–17 Emerald Buddha 87 Fabrics
restaurants 419–20 in Chiang Rai 254 Antique Textile Exhibition Hal
Dragoncastle 460, 461 Haw Pha Kaew (Vientiane) 298 (Bangkok) 106
Drinks 415 in Lampang 240 kalaga tapestries 437
glossary 417 Wat Arun (Bangkok) 130–31 Northern Thailand 213
water 466 Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 79, 84, Thai silk 142, 143, 270–71, 436,
see also Food and drink 86 439
Driver’s licenses 478 Emergencies 464, 465 What to Buy in Thailand 441
Drugs 464 Emporium (Bangkok) 142, 143, see also Clothes
Doi Tung area 247 435, 439 Factory outlets 435
Fang area 246 Encephalitis see Japanese Fake goods 435
Golden Triangle 250 encephalitis Fang 246
heroin 464 Endangered wildlife 223 Far North 243–63
history of opium in Thailand English East India Company 167 Golden Triangle driving tour 250
237 English-language bookstores hotels 406–7
pharmacies 465 143, 435, 439 map 244–5
Dugongs 385 Enlightenment of the Buddha 35, restaurants 424–6
Dusit (Bangkok) 105–111 177 Far South see Deep South
area map 105 Entertainment 442–5 Farming 26
Christian Churches 108 bars 147, 443, 445 rice 30–31
hotels 402 booking tickets 442 Fashion Island (Bangkok) 435, 439
restaurants 418–19 cinemas 146, 147, 443, 445 FedEx 471
Dusit Park (Bangkok) 12, 106–7 comedy 443, 445 Ferries, island 477
Dusit Thani Hotel (Bangkok) concerts 443, 445 Festivals 50–55
443 cultural shows and theater 146, hill tribes 210–211
Dusit Zoo (Bangkok) 109, 448 147 Loy Krathong at Sukhothai 199
Dutch East India Company 167, discos 443, 445 Maytime fruit festivals 325
351 exhibitions 443, 445 Phi Ta Khon Festival 51, 293
Dvaravati Kingdom 57, 60 folk clubs 443, 445 Songkran festivities in the
architecture 39 information sources 442 North 240
Dysentery 467 krabi-krabong 444, 445 temple fairs and festivals 444
modern theater 443, 445 Vegetarian Festival (Phuket
E muay thai 146, 147, 444, 445 town) 364
East Asiatic Company (Bangkok) music clubs 443, 445 Film see Cinema
117 nightclubs 147, 443, 445 Fine Arts Department (Bangkok)
East India Companies 167 puppet shows 146, 147, 442 182, 268, 459
Eastern & Oriental Express 477 rugby 444, 445 Fine Arts, The (Bangkok) 438, 439
Eastern Asia Flyway 214 snooker 444, 445 Fire services 464
Eastern Seaboard 317–27 soccer 444, 445 First aid see Health
hotels 408–9 takraw 444 First states 60–61
map 318–19 temple fairs and festivals 444 First-aid kit 466
restaurants 428–9 traditional theater and dance Fish
A Week on the Eastern 442, 445 coral reefs 352–3
Seaboard 11, 16 see also Khon; Lakhon; Likay seafood of the South 393
Eating habits 413 Environment 27 Fisheries Department (Si
Economy 26–7 Erawan falls 173 Chiangmai) 295
Electricity 461 Erawan mall (Bangkok) 142, 143 Fishing 447, 452
Elephants 257 Erawan Museum (Bangkok) 134, korlae fishing boats 349, 394
Ban Ta Klang 283 141 Flag, Thai 25
Elephant Kraal (Ayutthaya) Erawan National Park 173 Flann O’Brien’s Irish Pub
184 Erawan Shrine (Bangkok) 12, (Bangkok) 443, 445
Elephant Nature Park (Mae 122 Flowers
Taeng Valley) 225 ethnic groups 25–6 Festival (Chiang Mai) 55
Phuket FantaSea 366 see also individual ethnic groups landscape of Thailand 32–3
royal howdahs 212–13 Etihad Airlines 474 orchids 224
488  GENERAL INDEX
Flowers (cont.)
Pak Khlong Market (Bangkok)
102
Rafflesia kerri 361
Folk clubs 443, 445
Folklore Museum (Ko Yo) 391
Food and drink
art of Thai food 42–3
bird’s-nest soup 345
carving 42
coffee shops 412
drinks 415
Flavours of Thailand 414–15
food-borne diseases 467
glossary of dishes 416–17
roadside and market food
stands 412–13
safety 466
seafood of the South 393
Thai fruits and vegetables
137
see also Markets; Restaurants
Food and Fruits Fair (Nakhon
Pathom) 54
Footprints of the Buddha
176
Foreigners in Ayutthaya
166–7
Forestry Department 400, 401
Forests
Khao Phra Taew Forest Park
367
landscape of Thailand 32–3
mangrove forests 354–5
Thailand’s teak industry 253
Tham Pha Tup Forest Preserve
259
see also National Parks
Forgeries see Fake goods
Fortune tellers, Sanam Luang
(Bangkok) 83
Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai
454, 455
Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui
454, 455
Four Seasons Tented Camp
at the Golden Triangle 448,
454, 455
France 166–7
Franco-Siamese Crisis (1893)
71
French Embassy (Bangkok)
116
Frescoes
Ayutthayan 64
see also Murals
Fresh Produce Market (Phuket
town) 364
Friday Mosque (Nakhon Si
Thammarat) 380
Friendship Bridge (Mukdahan)
302
Friendship Bridge (Nong Khai)
296, 297
Front Palace Crisis (1875) 70
Fruits 137 Grand Palace (Bangkok) (cont.)
carving 42 plan 85
Maytime fruit festivals 325 scams 464
Funan 59 Siwalai Gardens 89
Fungal infections 466 see also Wat Phra Kaeo
Green Travel 472
G Greene, Graham 119
Galleries see Museums and Greeting people 462
galleries Guesthouses 399
Ganesh 119, 257, 390 see also Hotels
Garages 478 Guided tours 475
Gardens see Parks and gardens Guided treks see Trekking
Gas stations 478 Gulf of Thailand 309–345
Gay and Lesbian Travelers 460 beaches 312–13
Gaysorn Plaza (Bangkok) 142, Eastern Seaboard 317–27
143 festivals 51
Gemstones 314–15 map 310–311
Bo Rai 325 Thai gemstones 314–15
Chanthaburi 16, 325 Western Seaboard 329–45
shops 143, 438, 439 Gupta art 61
What to Buy in Thailand 441 Gypsies see Sea gypsies
General delivery 471
General Post Office (Bangkok) H
118 Haeo Suwat waterfall 188
Gestures of the Buddha 177 Hanuman 44–5
Geysers Haripunchai Empire 60, 66
San Kamphaeng Hot Springs Lampang 240
233 Lamphun 233
see also Springs Harmonique restaurant
Giant Swing (Bangkok) 94 (Bangkok) 116
Gibbon Rehabilitation Project Harnn Heritage Spa (Bangkok)
(Phuket) 362, 367 455
Gibbon, white-handed 223 Haroon Mosque (Bangkok) 116,
Glass Sand Beach (Hat Sai Kaeo) 460, 461
16, 312, 322 Hat Chao Mai National Park
Goethe-Institut (Bangkok) 443, 384
445 Hat Karon 17, 366
Gold 438 Hat Kata 17, 366
Gold leaf 34 Hat Khlong Phrao 16, 326
Golden Buddha 102 Hat Lek 327
Golden Mount (Bangkok) 91 Hat Mai Khao 366
Golden Mount Fair (Bangkok) 50, Hat Nai Thon (Phuket) 17, 366
54 Hat Nai Yang (Phuket) 17, 366
Golden Triangle 10, 13, 243 Hat Patong 366
Golden Triangle Apex (Sop Hat Phra Nang 374
Ruak) 252 Hat Rin 343
Golden Triangle driving tour Hat Sai Kaeo (Glass Sand Beach)
250–51 16, 312, 322
history of opium in Thailand Hat Sai Tai Muang 300
237 Hat Samila 390
Golf 448, 452 Hat Tham 320
Government House (Bangkok) Hat Tham Pang beach 320
110 Hat Yai 380, 391
Governor’s Palace (Phatthalung) airport 473
388 hotels 411
Grand Palace (Bangkok) 12, 29, restaurants 433
68, 88–9 Hat Yao (Ko Phi Phi) 17, 376
Aphonphimok Pavilion 88 Haw Pha Kaew (Vientiane)
Audience Chamber 89 298
Boromphiman Mansion 89 Health 464–7
Chakri Throne Hall 88 Health Land (Bangkok) 455
Dusit Throne Hall 88 Heat 466
Inner Palace 89 “Hellfire Pass” 173
Phra Maha Monthien Buildings “Hell’s banknotes” 101, 103
88–9 Hepatitis A 466, 467

Hepatitis B 466, 467
Her Majesty the Queen’s Birthday
53
Heroin 464
Golden Triangle 250
history of opium in Thailand
237
Heroines’ Monument (Phuket)
363
Hertz (car hire) 478, 479
Hia Kui Market (Damnoen
Saduak) 136
Highways 479
Hiking 448–9, 452–3
see also Trekking
Hill Tribe Museum (Chiang Rai)
255
Hill Tribe Products Foundation
(Chiang Mai) 436, 439
Hill tribes 25, 210–211
artifacts 436, 439, 440
trekking 448
see also Akha; Hmong; Karen;
Lahu; Lisu; Mien; Padaung
Hinduism 34
elephants in 257
Maha Uma Devi Temple
(Bangkok) 119
His Majesty the King’s Birthday
55, 111
History 57–73
Hmong tribespeople 210
Ban Winai 294
Doi Inthanon National Park
235
Doi Phu Kha National Park
258
Fang 246
Khao Kho 205
Mae Teng Valley 225
Mae Wong National Park 196
Nan National Museum 258–9
Phrao 224
HMS Chumphon 336
Ho Chi Minh 299
Ho Chi Minh City 298
Ho Phra Buddha Sing Shrine
(Nakhon Si Thammarat) 383
Ho Phra I-suan (Shiva) Shrine
(Nakhon Si Thammarat)
382–3
Ho Phra Narai Shrine (Nakhon Si
Thammarat) 383
Ho rakangs 37
Ho trais 36, 67, 129
Hokkien Chinese 360
Holidays, public 55
Holy Redeemer Catholic Church
(Bangkok) 460, 461
Hongkong Shanghai Bank (HSBC)
(Bangkok) 468
Hongsa 128
Horse racing 451, 453
Royal Bangkok Sports Club
(Bangkok) 121, 451
Horse riding 451, 453
Hospitals
McCormick Hospital (Chiang
Mai) 231
medical emergencies 464, 465
Old Medicine Hospital (Chiang
Mai) 451, 453
Overbrook Hospital (Chiang
Rai) 255
Phuket International Hospital
465
Hot 236
Hot Rock 450, 453
Hot season 52–3
Hot springs see Springs
Hot-air balloons 451, 453
Hotels 398–411
backpacker hostels 399
Bangkok 402–3
bargaining 401
booking 400
budget hotels 399
Deep South 411
disabled travelers 401
Eastern Seaboard 408–9
facilities for children 401
Far North 406–7
grading and facilities 398
guesthouses 399
Khorat Plateau 407
luxury hotels 398
Mekong River Valley 407–8
modern hotels 398–9
North Central Plains 404–5
Northwest Heartland 405–6
prices 400
resort hotels 398
South Central Plains 403–4
spas 454–5
tax 401
tipping 401, 463
Upper Andaman Coast 410–
411
Western Seaboard 409–410
House of Gems (Bangkok) 116
House of Opium Museum (Sop
Ruak) 13, 237, 252
Houses
khlongs 129
traditional Thai houses 40–41
Htin tribespeople, Doi Phu Kha
National Park 258
Hua Hin 329, 335
beach 312
hotels 409–410
restaurants 429–30
Hua Lampong Station (Bangkok)
102, 476, 477
Hua Mark Stadiums (Bangkok)
444, 445
Huai Kha Khaeng 172–3
Huai Khamin falls 173
Huay Sadeh waterfall 374
Huay To waterfall 374
Hun krabok puppets 44, 47
GENERAL INDEX  489
I
I Chinga 336
Ice 466
Illuminated Boat Procession
(Nakhon Phanom) 51, 54
Imaging Technology Museum
(Bangkok) 121
Immigration, Chinese 103
Immigration Department
(Bangkok) 458, 459
Immunization 466
Indochina 253, 298
Indochina Market (Nong Khai) 15,
296
Indra 261, 290
Indra Ceramics (Lampang) 437,
439
Indravarman II, King 61
Insect-borne diseases 466–7
Institute of Massage (Bangkok) 96
Insurance
cars 478
medical 465
International Amateur Muay Thai
Federation (Bangkok) 444, 445
International Buddhist
Meditation Center (Bangkok)
460, 461
International Church (Bangkok)
460, 461
International Dhamma
Hermitage (Surat Thrani) 451,
453
Internet and Email 470
Intharacha I, King 64, 180
Intharacha II, King 184
Isan see Northeast Thailand
Islam 350
Deep South 379
Haroon Mosque (Bangkok) 116,
460, 461
Nurul Islam Mosque (Mae Sot)
194
Pattani 394
Island ferries 477
Islands see under Ko
Itineraries 10–17
Ancient Capitals of Thailand 10,
14
Thailand’s Southern Beaches 10,
17
Two Days in Bangkok 10, 12
Two Days in Chiang Mai 10,
12–13
A Week on the Eastern
Seaboard 11, 16
A Week in the Far North of
Thailand 10, 13
A Week in Thailand’s Northeast
11, 15
J
“James Bond Island” 370
Japan Bridge Company 175
Japanese encephalitis 467
490  GENERAL INDEX
Jataka tales 34
Jayavarman VII, King 61, 174
Prasat Ta Muen Tot 282
Si Satchanalai-Chalieng
Historical Park 202
JEATH War Museum
(Kanchanaburi) 174–5
Jellyfish stings 466
Jesuits 166–7
Jet skis 447
Jewelry
ceremonial 213
gemstones 314–15
shops 143, 438, 439
What to Buy in Thailand 441
Jewish Community Center
(Bangkok) 460, 461
Jim Thompson House (Bangkok)
12, 124–5
Jim Thompson’s Silk Shop
(Bangkok) 142, 143, 436, 439
Jomtien beach 312, 321
K Khao Ok Talu 388
Kad Suan Kaew (Chiang Mai) 435,
439
Kaeng Krachan National Park 334
Kaeng Krachan Reservoir 329,
334
Kaeng Kut Khu rapids 294
Kalaga tapestries 437
Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary &
Holistic Spa (Ko Samui) 454,
455
Kamphaeng Phet 162, 196–7
hotels 404
map 197
Kamphaeng Phet National
Museum 196
Kanap Nam twin limestone peaks
375
Kanchanaburi 162, 169, 174–5
festivals 50, 54
hotels 404
restaurants 421
Kanchanaburi War Cemetery 174,
175
Kao Market (Bangkok) 100, 145
Karen tribespeople 210–211
Fang 246
Mae Hong Son 220
Mae Sariang 236
Mae Taeng Valley 225
Ruamit 255
Sangkhla Buri 172
Thailand-Burma border
refugees 195
Umphang 195
Karon, Hat 17, 366
Kasikorn Bank 468
Kata, Hat 17, 366
Kawila of Lampang 67
Kayaking 447, 452
Kayan tribespeople 220
Kedah 71
Kelantan 71
Khaen 277
Khaen Nakhon Lake 277
Kham Fu, King 229
Khantoke dinners 42, 413, 442
Khantoke Palace (Chiang Mai)
442, 445
Khao Chamao waterfall 323
Khao Chamao-Khao Wong
National Park 317, 323
Khao Chong Nature and Study
Center 385
Khao Hua Taek 388
Khao Khieo Open Zoo 320
Khao Kho 205
Khao Kitchakut National Park 324
Khao Kong 395
Khao Lak 358
Khao Lak Coast 360
Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park
360
Khao Ngu 136
Khao Noi (Songkhla) 390
Khao Phanom Bencha National
Park 374
Khao Phansa 51, 53
Khao Phra Taew Forest Park 367
Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park
329, 331, 336
Khao San Road Market (Bangkok)
144
Khao Seng 390
Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary
324
Khao Sok National Park 359, 360
Khao Tung Kuan 390
Khao Wong caves 323
Khao Yai National Park 163, 169,
188–9, 449
Khatta Kumara 260, 261
Khaw Sim Bee Na-Ranong 364,
384–5
Khlong Lamchan 385
Khlong Lan National Park 196
Khlong Lan Waterfall 196
Khlong Phlu waterfall 11, 16, 327
Khlong Thom 375
Khlong Yai 327
Khlong Yaw Market (Bo Rai) 325
Khlongs 129
Khmer Empire 57, 60–61
Kamphaeng Phet 196
Lop Buri 178
Mekong River Valley 287
Prasat Hin Khao Phnom Rung
284–5
Prasat Hin Phimai 280–81
Prasat Khao Phra Wihan 267,
306
Prasat Muang Sing 174
Prasat Prang Ku 306
Prasat Ta Muen and Prasat Ta
Muen Tot 282
religious architecture 38
Khmer Empire (cont.)
Si Satchanalai-Chalieng
Historical Park 202, 203
temples 268–9
Ubon Ratchathani 306
Khmer Rouge 283
Khon (dance-drama) 29, 46–7
Khon Kaen 276–7
hotels 407
restaurants 426
Khon Kaen National Museum
277
Khong Chiam 303
Khorat 11, 15, 278–9
hotels 407
map 278
restaurants 426
Khorat cats 279
Khorat Plateau 26, 273–85
hotels 407
map 274–5
restaurants 426–7
Khrua In Khong 90
Khrubaa Siwichai 233
Khum Kaew Khantoke Palace
(Chiang Mai) 442, 445
Khumlum Phraphat Road (Mae
Hong Son) 221
Khun Kaew Khantoke Palace
(Chiang Mai) 445
Khun Patpongpanit 120
Khun Phitak Market (Damnoen
Saduak) 136
Khun Sa 246, 252
Khunying Mo 279
Khwae Noi River 172
Khwae River Bridge Week
(Kanchanaburi) 50, 54
Khwae Yai Bridge 169, 175
Kick boxing see Muay thai
Kilns, Sukhothai-era 165
Kim Jeng (Ayutthaya) 436,
439
King Bhumibol’s Photographic
Museums (Bangkok) 106
King Climbers 450, 453
The King and I 119
King Narai’s Palace (Lop Buri)
178
King Rama IX Park (Bangkok)
140
King Ramkamhaeng Monument
(Sukhothai Historical Park)
199
Kinokuniya Books 143, 435,
439
Kite-flying 55
Sanam Luang (Bangkok) 83
Kitti Thonglongya 173
Kiu Wong In 365
Klai Klangwon (Hua Hin) 335
Klong Pla-Gang waterfall 323
Klong River 136
KMT see Kuomintang
Ko Adang 392
 GENERAL INDEX  491

Ko Chang 11, 16, 311, 316, Ko Tarutao 380, 392 Laos (cont.)
317, 319, 326–7 Ko Wai 16, 327 Golden Triangle 250
beaches 312, 313 Ko Wua Talab 344, 345 Huay Xai 253
hotels 408 Ko Yang 392 Pathet Lao 299
restaurants 428 Ko Yo 391 Vientiane 298–9
Ko Hai 384, 386–7 Kok River 246, 255 visas 253, 459
Ko Hong 370, 374 Korlae fishing boats 349, 394 Lean, David 175
Ko Hua Khwan 374 Kra, Isthmus of 26, 351 Lee, Christopher 371
Ko Khai 392 Krabi 358, 375 Leeches 466
Ko Khao Phing Kan 370, 371 rock-climbing 375, 450 Legal assistance 465
Ko Kra 392 Krabi-Krabong 444, 445 Legend of the Emerald Buddha
Ko Kradan 384 Krailasa, Mount 284 87
Ko Kradat 327 Krathin 54 Lek Chailert 225
Ko Kret 139 Krathin waterfall 324 Leonowens, Anna 119
Ko Kut 16, 327 Kru Se 394 Li Thi Miew (Bangkok) 101
hotels 408 Krua Khonpae 128 Libraries
Ko Lanta 377 Krung Thai Bank (Bangkok) 468 National Library (Bangkok) 108
Ko Lanta Yai 377 Krung Thep see Bangkok Neilson-Hays Library (Bangkok)
Ko Libong 384 Ku Na, King 66, 226 119
Ko Lipey 392 Kuang River 233 see also Ho trais
Ko Loi 320 Kuomintang (KMT) 237, 252 Lido (Bangkok) 443, 445
Ko Mae Ko 345 Chiang Khong 253 Likay (dance-drama) 47
Ko Mak 16, 327 Mae Aw 222 Lim Ko Niaw 394
hotels 409 Mae Salong 246–7 Lim To Khieng 394
Ko Man Klang 321 Limestone, Phangnga Bay 368–9
Ko Man Nok 321 L Lisu tribespeople 28, 210, 244
Ko Mattra 336 Lacquerware 437 Doi Chiang Dao 224
Ko Muk 384 What to Buy in Thailand 440 Fang 246
Ko Ngai see Ko Hai Lahu tribespeople 210–211 Mae Taeng Valley 225
Ko Ngam Noi 336 Fang 246 Pai 223
Ko Ngam Yai 336 Lak Muang (Mukdahan) 302 Phrao 224
Ko Pha Ngan 343 Lakeside Pavilion, Dusit Park Wiang Pa Pao 256
hotels 410 (Bangkok) 107 Literature 29
map 343 Lakhon (dance-drama) 29, 46–7 Poetry of Sunthorn Phu 323
restaurants 430 Lakshman 44–5, 280 Western writers in Bangkok
Ko Phanak 371 Lam Pam 388 119
Ko Phi Phi 17, 346–7, 358, 376–7, Lam Takhong River 188, 189, 279 Lo Thai, King 63, 201
450 Lamai 17, 342 Local transport 480
map 376 Lampang 14, 208, 240–41 Loei 15, 293
Ko Phuket see Phuket hotels 406 festivals 51, 53, 288
Ko Poda 359, 374 restaurants 424 hotels 407–8
Ko Rang 327 Lamphun 233 restaurants 427
Ko Rawi 392 restaurants 424 Loei River 293
Ko Saket 321 Lamphun National Museum 233 Lomprayah (ferry information)
Ko Sam Sao 344 Lan Sang National Park 195 477
Ko Samet 11, 16, 311, 322–3, 336 Lan Xang Kingdom 296, 298, 299 Long-distance buses 476
beaches 312, 318 Landscape of Thailand 32–3 “Long-neck women” see Padaung
hotels 409 Laneau, Father Louis 108 women
map 322 Language Longka 44
restaurants 428 phrase book 508–512 Lop Buri 61, 163, 178–9
Ko Samui 10, 17, 32, 310, 329, Thai 460 hotels 404
330, 340–42 Lanna Kingdom 57, 65, 66–7, 217 restaurants 421
airport 473 Chiang Rai 254 Street-by-Street map 178–9
hotels 410 religious architecture 39 Lord Jim’s Bar (Bangkok) 443,
map 340–41 Lanna Museum (Lampang) 240, 445
restaurants 430–31 241 Lost Khmer temples 268–9
tourist police 465 Lanna School, Emerald Buddha Louis XIV, King of France 166, 167,
Ko Sichang 320–21 86 179
Ko Similan 17, 358, 361 Lao Patriotic Front 299 Loy Krathong 50, 54
Ko Sirey (Phuket) 365 Lao Revolutionary Museum at Sukhothai 199
Ko Surin 17, 358, 361 (Vientiane) 298 Luang Pho Phra Sai Buddha 296
Ko Tao 345 Laos Luang Pho Somchai 323
hotels 410 Chong Mek 303 Luang Pu Bunleua Surirat 297
restaurants 431 entry from 474 Luang Vichit Chetsada 128
Ko Tapu 370, 371 Friendship Bridges 296, 297, 302 Lue people see Thai Lue people
492  GENERAL INDEX
Lue Thai, King 200
Lumphini Park (Bangkok) 12, 121
Lumphini Stadium (Bangkok)
146, 147, 444, 445
Luxury hotels 398
M 344
McCormick Hospital (Chiang Mai)
231
Mae Aw 222
Mae Chaem 236
Mae Chan, hotels 406
Mae Hong Son 208, 217, 220–21
festivals 50–51, 52
hotels 406
restaurants 424
Street-by-Street map 220–21
Mae Khongkha 50, 54
Mae Sai 10, 13, 250
Golden Triangle driving tour
251
hotels 406
restaurants 425
Mae Salong (Santikhiree) 10, 13,
246–7
restaurants 425
Mae Sam Laep 236
Mae Sariang 217, 236
restaurants 424
Mae Saruai 256
Mae Sot 191, 194
hotels 404
restaurants 421
Mae Surin Waterfall 222
Mae Taeng Valley 10, 13, 225
Mae Wong National Park 196
Mae Ya waterfall 235
Mae Yom National Park 256
Maenam 340–41
Magazines 471
entertainment listings 146, 442
Maha Thammaracha I
King 63, 180
Maha Uma Devi Temple
(Bangkok) 119
Maha Uparaja Bovornvijaya Jarn
106
Maha Weerawong National
Museum (Khorat) 279
Mahanikai monastic sect 90
Mahayana Buddhism 34
Mahboonkrong (Bangkok) 12,
142, 143
Mahboonkrong Center (Bangkok)
122
Mai Market (Bangkok) 101
Makha Bucha 55
Malacca, Straits of 350–51
Malaria 466–7
Malaysia, entry from 474
Malaysian Embassy 459
Malls, shopping 142, 143, 434–5,
439
Mandarin Oriental Hotel
(Bangkok) 116, 118, 398
Manfredi, Hercules 110–111
Mangrove forests 354–5
Phangnga Bay 368, 371
Mao Zedong 246
Maps
Angthong National Marine Park
ASEAN in 2008 72
Ayutthaya 57, 166–7, 181
Ayutthaya in 1540 64
Bangkok 20, 76–7
Bangkok: Around Sanam Luang
82–3
Bangkok: Central Chinatown
100–101
Bangkok: Chinatown 99
Bangkok: City Centre see Back
Endpaper
Bangkok: Downtown Bangkok
115
Bangkok: Dusit 105
Bangkok: Dusit Park 106–7
Bangkok: Farther Afield 135
Bangkok: Old City 81
Bangkok: Old Farang Quarter
116–17
Bangkok: Street Finder 148–59
Bangkok’s Markets 144–5
Central Plains 162–3
Chao Phraya Express Boats see
Back Endpaper
Chiang Mai 21, 228–9, 231
Chiang Rai 255
Deep South 380–81
Discovering Thailand 10–11
Eastern Seaboard 318–19
Far North 244–5
Golden Triangle driving tour
250–51
Greater Bangkok 77
Gulf of Thailand 310–311
Gulf of Thailand Beaches 312–
13
Kamphaeng Phet 197
Khao Yai National Park 188–9
Khmer Empire 268
Khmer Empire in AD 960 60
Khorat 278
Khorat Plateau 274–5
Ko Chang 326
Ko Pha Ngan 343
Ko Phi Phi 376
Ko Samet 322
Ko Samui 340–41
Lanna in 1540 66
Lop Buri 178–9
Mae Hong Son 220–21
Mekong River Valley 288–9
Mekong villages tour
294–5
Nakhon Si Thammarat
383
Nong Khai 297
North Central Plains 192–3
Northeast Thailand 266–7
Maps (cont.)
Northern Thailand 20–21,
208–9
Northwest Heartland 218–19
Phetchaburi 332–3
Phrae 262–3
Phu Kradung National Park
290–91
Phuket 362–3
Phuket town 365
prehistoric sites 58
road maps 479
ruby and sapphire mining 314
Si Satchanalai-Chalieng
Historical Park 203
Siam in 1809 68
Siam in 1909 70
Songkhla 390
South Central Plains 170–71
Southeast Asia 18
Southern Thailand 22–3, 348–9
Sukhothai in 1300 62
Sukhothai Historical Park 198
Thailand 18–19
Thon Buri 127
trade routes and the Peninsula
350–51
trekking around Chiang Dao
225
Ubon Ratchathani 307
Upper Andaman Coast 358–9
Vientiane 298
Western Seaboard 331
Mara 177
Marble Temple see Wat
Benchamabophit
Mareukathayawan Palace 335
Marijuana 464
Marine Research Center (Phuket)
363, 367
Markets 142, 435
Bangkok’s Markets 144–5
Banglamphu Market (Bangkok)
144
Bangrak Market (Bangkok) 119,
145
Bo Be Market (Bangkok) 145
Bovorn Bazaar (Nakhon Si
Thammarat) 383
Chatuchak Market 139, 142
Damnoen Saduak Floating
Market 136
food stands 412–13
Fresh Produce Market (Phuket
town) 364
Indochina Market (Nong Khai)
15, 296
Kao Market (Bangkok) 100, 145
Khao San Road Market
(Bangkok) 144
Khlong Yaw Market (Bo Rai) 325
Mae Hong Son 220
Mai Market (Bangkok) 101
Nakorn Kasem (Bangkok)
102, 145

Markets (cont.)
Night Bazaar (Chiang Mai) 13,
230
Night Market (Khorat) 15, 279
Pak Khlong Market (Bangkok)
102, 144
Patpong/Silom Market
(Bangkok) 145
Phahurat Market (Bangkok)
102, 142, 143, 144
Pratunam Market (Bangkok)
123, 145
Railway market (Maeklong)
456–7
Sampeng Lane Market
(Bangkok) 145
Saphan Han Market (Bangkok)
102
Siam Square (Bangkok) 122
Stamp Market (Bangkok) 145
Thewet Flower Market
(Bangkok) 108, 145
Thung Kwian Forest Market 241
Warorot Market (Chiang Mai)
13, 230
Martial arts 444, 445
Marzotto (Bangkok) 143
Masks
shops 437
What to Buy in Thailand 440
Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) 481
Massage 12, 97, 451
Institute of Massage (Bangkok)
96
Thai Massage School of (Chiang
Mai) 451, 453
Mastercard 468
Matsayit Klang mosque (Pattani)
394
Maugham, Somerset 118, 119
Maya, Queen 110
Maytime fruit festivals 325
MBK Center (Bangkok) 122, 142,
143
Medical facilities 465
see also Hospitals
Meditation 35, 451, 453
as a posture of the Buddha 177
Mekong River valley 10, 15, 26,
287–307
festivals 54
Golden Triangle Apex (Sop
Ruak) 252
hotels 407–8
map 288–9
Mekong villages tour 294–5
restaurants 427–8
Memorial Bridge (Bangkok) 79
Mengrai Kilns (Chiang Mai) 437,
439
Mengrai, King 66
Chiang Mai 228
Chiang Rai 254
death of 230
Fang 246
Mengrai, King (cont.)
Wat Chiang Man (Chiang Mai)
230
Menus 416
see also Food and drink
Merit-making 34, 133
Meru, Mount 130–31, 202
Metric system 461
Metropolitan Mobile Police
465
Microlighting 451, 453
Mien tribespeople 210–211,
243
Doi Phu Kha National Park 258
Fang 246
Mae Salong 247
Nan National Museum 258–9
Pha Dua 250
Mike Shopping Mall (Pattaya)
435, 439
Mileage chart 23
Missionaries 166–7
Modern hotels 398–9
Mon people 60
Dan Kwian 279
Sangkhla Buri 172
Monarchy 28
Monasteries see Wats
Mondops 36
Money
banking and local currency
468–9
customs information 459
in shops 142, 434
Mongkut (Rama IV), King 57
Bang Pa-in Palace 185
Chan Kasem Palace (Ayutthaya)
180
death of 69
Grand Palace (Bangkok) 88, 89
modernization of Thailand 68,
69
Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical
Park (Phetchaburi) 333, 334
Phra Pathom Chedi (Nakhon
Pathom) 138
Phuket town 364
Pisai Sayalak Tower (Ayutthaya)
180
portrait of 69
Ratchadamnoen Avenue
(Bangkok) 111
Tak Bai 395
The King and I 119
Wat Arun (Bangkok) 130–31
Wat Bowonniwet (Bangkok) 90
Wat Chalerm Phrakiet
(Nonthaburi) 139
Wat Indrawihan (Bangkok)
108
Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 86, 87
Wat Rachapradit (Bangkok) 95
Wat Supattanaram Worawihan
(Ubon Ratchathani) 307
Monkey Hill (Phuket) 363, 365
GENERAL INDEX  493
Monkhood 28, 34
during the Buddhist Rains
Retreat 53
and etiquette 463
and popular Buddhist rituals
133
Monk’s Bowl Village (Ban Bat,
Bangkok) 94
Monsoon 30–31, 52
Montane tropical forest 32
Moore, Roger 129, 371
Mopeds, hiring 478
Mosques
Haroon Mosque (Bangkok) 116,
460, 461
Nurul Islam Mosque (Mae Sot)
194
Mosquitoes 466–7
Motorcycles
renting 478
taxis 320, 480
Mouhot, Henri 182, 269
Movies see Cinema
MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) 481
Muang Tam see Prasat Hin Muang
Tam
Muay thai 48–9, 146, 147, 444,
445
Mukdahan 15, 302
hotels 408
restaurants 427
Mun River 303, 306
Murals
Wat Nong Bua 258
Wat Phumin (Nan) 260–61
see also Frescoes
Museums and galleries
admission prices 459
Antique Textile Exhibition Hall
(Bangkok) 106
Art Corner (Bangkok) 443
Art Gallery (Chulalongkorn
University, Bangkok) 121
Art Republic (Bangkok) 445
Ban Chiang National Museum
59, 276
Ban Kao Museum 174
Ban Sao Nak (Lampang) 240,
241
Bangkok Art and Culture Center
122
Chaiya National Museum 337
Chao Sam Phraya National
Museum (Ayutthaya) 182
Chiang Mai National Museum
231
Chiang Saen National Museum
253
Congdon Museum of Anatomy
(Bangkok) 129
Erawan Museum (Bangkok) 141
Folklore Museum (Ko Yo) 391
H Gallery (Bangkok) 443, 445
Hill Tribe Museum
(Chiang Rai) 255
494  GENERAL INDEX
Museums and galleries (cont.)
House of Gems (Bangkok) 116
House of Opium Museum (Sop
Ruak) 13, 237, 252
Imaging Technology Museum
(Bangkok) 121
JEATH War Museum
(Kanchanaburi) 174–5
Jim Thompson House
(Bangkok) 12, 124–5
Kamphaeng Phet National
Museum 196
Khon Kaen National Museum
277
King Bhumibol’s Photographic
Museums (Bangkok) 106
Lamphun National Museum
233
Lanna Museum (Lampang) 240,
241
Lao Revolutionary Museum
(Vientiane) 298
Maha Weerawong National
Museum (Khorat) 279
Museum of Forensic Medicine
(Bangkok) 129
Museum of Natural History
(Chulalongkorn University,
Bangkok) 121
Museum of Siam (Bangkok) 95
Museums at the Siriraj Hospital
(Bangkok) 129
Nakhon Si Thammarat National
Museum 382
Nan National Museum 258–9
National Gallery (Bangkok) 90
National Museum (Bangkok) 14,
83, 92–3, 438, 439
Old Clock Museum (Bangkok)
107
opening hours 460
Patrsee Museum (Songkhla) 390
Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical
Park (Phetchaburi) 333, 334
Phra Pathom Chedi National
Museum (Nakhon Pathom) 138
Prasart Museum (Bangkok) 141
Ramkamhaeng National
Museum (Sukhothai Historical
Park) 198–9
Ratchaburi National Museum 136
Royal Barge Museum (Bangkok)
128–9
Royal Paraphernalia Museum
(Bangkok) 106
Samdej Phra Narai National
Museum (Lop Buri) 178
Sawankha Woranayok National
Museum (Sawankhalok) 204
Sergeant Major Thawee’s Folk
Museum (Phitsanulok) 205
Songkhla National Museum
349, 390
Suan Pakkad Palace (Bangkok)
123
Museums and galleries (cont.) Nan (cont.)
SUPPORT Museum (Bangkok) traditional boat races in Nan 54,
107, 109 259
Surin Museum (Surin) 283 Wat Phumin 260–61
Thai Human Imagery Museum Nan National Museum 258–9
138 Nan River 78, 205, 258, 263
Thailand-Burma Railroad Center Nandakwang (Bangkok) 143
(Kanchanaburi) 174 Nandin the bull 280, 285
Thalang National Museum Nang talung shadow puppets 389
(Phuket) 367 Nang yai shadow plays 45
Thavorn Hotel Lobby Exhibition Narai, King 65, 67
(Phuket town) 364 Bang Pa-in Palace 185
Tribal Research Institute (Chiang and foreigners in Ayutthaya 167
Mai) 231 Khorat 278
U Thong National Museum 176 King Narai’s Palace (Lop Buri) 178
Ubon National Museum (Ubon Lop Buri 178
Ratchathani) 307 Phaulkon Residence (Lop Buri)
Wat Mae Phrae Museum 179
(Bangkok) 108 Wat Phra Thong Thong (Lop
Music 46–7, 443, 445 Buri) 178
concerts 443, 445 Narai Phand (Bangkok) 436, 437,
khaen 277 439
piphat 46, 48 Narathiwat 395
shops 437 Narathiwat Fair 51, 54
Muslims see Islam Narathiwat province 380, 381
Myanmar (Burma) Narayai Phand (Bangkok) 143,
besieges Ayutthaya 65 436, 439
Burmese Kingdom 66–7 Naresuan, King of Ayutthaya 65, 67
entry from 474 Battle of Nong Sarai 66–7, 176,
Golden Triangle 250 182
Myanmar Embassy 459 Chan Kasem Palace (Ayutthaya)
Tachilek 250 180
Thailand-Myanmar border Don Chedi Memorial Fair
refugees 195 (Suphan Buri province) 55
Victoria Point 360 Surin Elephant Roundup 282
visas 250, 459 Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
(Ayutthaya) 185
N Naris, Prince 110–111
Na Dan 322 Narz Club (Bangkok) 443, 445
Naga figures 232 Nat spirits 124
Naga Pearl Farm 367 Nathon 340
Nai Khanom Dtom 48 National anthem 462–3
Nak Buddha 87 National Gallery (Bangkok) 90
Nakhon Pathom 138 National Library (Bangkok) 108
festivals 54 National Marine Parks
Nakhon Phanom 15, 287, 300 Angthong 17, 344–5
festivals 51, 54 Ko Lanta 377
hotels 408 Phi Phi-Hat Nopparat Thara
restaurants 427 374, 376
Nakhon Ratchasima see Khorat Tarutao 349, 380, 392
Nakhon Sawan 78 National Museum (Bangkok) 14,
Nakhon Si Thammarat 349, 350, 83, 92–3
379, 382–3 export permits 438, 439, 459
map 383 National Parks
Nakhon Si Thammarat National accommodation in 400
Museum 382 Chaloem Rattanakosin 175
Naklua Bay 16, 321 Doi Inthanon 208, 234–5
Nakorn Kasem (Bangkok) 102, 145 Doi Phu Kha 258
Namtok Mae Surin National Park Doi Suthep-Doi Pui 226
222 Erawan 173
Namtok Phlio National Park 325 Hat Chao Mai 384
Namuang waterfall 17, 342 Kaeng Krachan 334
Nan 13, 209, 243, 258–9 Khao Chamao-Khao Wong 317,
hotels 406 323
restaurants 425 Khao Kitchakut 324

National Parks (cont.)
Khao Lak/Lam Ru 360
Khao Phanom Bencha 374
Khao Sam Roi Yot 336
Khao Sok 359, 360
Khao Yai 163, 169, 188–9, 449
Khlong Lan 196
Lan Sang 195
Mae Wong 196
Mae Yom 256
Namtok Mae Surin 222
Namtok Phlio 325
Phu Hin Rong Kla 292
Phu Kradung 11, 15, 266,
290–91
Phu Rua 11, 15, 292
Ramkamhaeng 201
Sai Yok 173
Si Nakharin 173
Si Satchanalai 204
Taksin Maharat 195
Tanboke Koranee 371
Thale Ban 392
Thung Salaeng Luang 205
National Stadium (Bangkok) 122
National Theater (Bangkok) 146,
147, 442, 445
Neilson-Hays, Jennie 119
Neilson-Hays Library (Bangkok)
119
NeOld (Bangkok) 438, 439
New Road (Bangkok) see Charoen
Krung Road
New Year
Chinese New Year 55
Songkran festivities in the
North 240
Newspapers 471
Ngao 256
Ngua Nam Thom, King 63
Nielloware 437
What to Buy in Thailand 440
Night Bazaar (Chiang Mai) 13,
230
Nightclubs 147, 443, 445
Nok Air 474
Nong Bua 258
Nong Khai 11, 15, 267, 287,
296–7
hotels 408
map 297
restaurants 427
Nong Prachak Park (Udon Thani)
276
Nong Sarai, Battle of (1693) 65,
66–7, 176
Nonthaburi 139
Noodles 416
see also Food and drink
North Central Plains 191–205
hotels 404–5
map 192–3
restaurants 421–2
North Gate (Nakhon Si
Thammarat) 383
Northeast Thailand (Isan) 26,
265–307
festivals 51
Khmer temples 268–9
Khorat Plateau 273–85
map 266–7
Mekong River Valley 287–307
silk production 270–71
A Week in Thailand’s Northeast
11, 15
Northern Insight Meditation
Center (Chiang Mai) 451, 453
Northern Thailand 26, 207–263
arts and crafts 212–13
birds 214–15
festivals 50–51
hill tribes 210–211
map 20–21, 208–9
traditional houses 40
A Week in the Far North of
Thailand 10, 13
Northwest Heartland 217–41
hotels 405–6
map 218–19
restaurants 422–4
NS Travel & Tours (Bangkok) 475
Nurul Islam Mosque (Mae Sot)
194
O Klai Klangwon (Hua Hin) 335
Oasis Spa (Bangkok) 455
Ok Phansa 51, 54
Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center
436, 439, 442, 445
Old City (Bangkok) 81–97
area map 81
hotels 402
National Museum 92–3
restaurants 418
Sanam Luang 82–3
Wat Pho 96–7
Old Clock Museum (Bangkok) 107
Old Customs House (Bangkok)
116
Old Farang Quarter (Bangkok)
Street-by-Street map 116–17
Old Medicine Hospital (Chiang
Mai) 451, 453
Old Sukhothai see Sukhothai
OP Place (Bangkok) 143
Open forest 32
Open World International Travel
Service 461
Opening hours 460
banks 468
restaurants 412
shops 142, 434
Opera, Chinese 103
Opium 237, 464
Doi Tung area 247
Golden Triangle 250
Orchids 224
Organized tours 475
see also Guided tours
Orient Thai Airlines 474
GENERAL INDEX  495
Outdoor activities 446–53
Overbrook Hospital
(Chiang Rai) 255
P
P & O Regale Travel 475
“Pack of Cards Bridge” 173
Paddy fields 30–31
Paduang women 220
Pai 223
hotels 406
restaurants 424
Pak Chom 294
Mekong villages tour 294
Pak Khlong Market (Bangkok)
102, 144
Paknam Incident (1893) 71
Palaces
Bang Pa-in Palace 185
Chan Kasem Palace (Ayutthaya)
180
Chitrlada Palace (Bangkok) 84,
110
Governor’s Palace (Phatthalung)
388
Grand Palace (Bangkok) 12, 29,
68, 88–9
King Narai’s Palace (Lop Buri)
178
Mareukathayawan Palace
335
Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical
Park (Phetchaburi) 333, 334
Sanam Chandra Palace (Nakhon
Pathom) 138
Suan Pakkad Palace (Bangkok)
123
Summer Palace (Ko Sichang)
320–21
Taksin Palace (Narathiwat)
395
Vimanmek Mansion (Bangkok)
107, 108–9
Pali canon 34
Pallegoix, Bishop 132
Pantip Plaza (Bangkok) 143
Panyi Fishing Village 370
Parking 478
Parks and gardens
Ancient City (Bangkok) 141
Benjasiri Park (Bangkok) 140
Doi Tung Royal Villa 13, 247
Dusit Park (Bangkok) 12,
106–7
Dusit Zoo (Bangkok) 109
Fisheries Department (Si
Chiangmai) 295
Khao Noi (Songkhla) 390
King Rama IX Park (Bangkok)
140
Lumphini Park (Bangkok) 12,
121
Nong Prachak Park (Udon
Thani) 276
496  GENERAL INDEX
Parks and gardens (cont.)
Phrae public park 263
Queen’s Park (Bangkok) 140
Sampran Riverside (Bangkok)
138
Siam Park (Bangkok) 140
Siwalai Gardens (Bangkok) 89
Taksin Park (Chanthaburi) 324
see also National Parks
Parmentier, Henri 269
Pasang 233
Passports 458–9
Pathet Lao 292, 294, 297, 299
Pathumwan Stadium (Bangkok)
444, 445
Patong, Hat 10, 17, 366
Patong OTOP Shopping Paradise
(Phuket) 436, 439
Patpong (Bangkok) 120
Patpong/Silom Market (Bangkok)
145
Patrsee Museum (Songkhla) 390
Pattani 351, 379, 394
Pattani province 380
Pattaya 16, 311, 317, 321
beaches 312, 313, 321
festivals 51, 52
hotels 409
restaurants 428–9
Pattaya Festival 52
Pearls
Naga Pearl Farm 367
Pearl of Phuket (Phuket town)
438, 439
Pen Phong (Chiang Mai) 437,
439
Peninsula, history of 350–51
Peninsula Plaza (Bangkok) 143,
435, 438, 439
Personal security 464–5
Petchkasem Hotel (Surin) 443,
445
Pewterware 437
Pha Baen 294
Pha Charoen falls 194
Pha Dua 250
Pha Lom Sak (Phu Kradung
National Park) 290
Pha Nok An (Phu Kradung
National Park) 291
Pha Taem 58, 59, 287, 302–3
Pha That Luang (Vientiane) 299
Phahurat Market (Bangkok) 102,
142, 143, 144
Phangnga Bay 10, 17, 348,
368–73
hotels 410
mangrove forests 354
prehistoric paintings 350
restaurants 431
Phangnga Coast
hotels 411
restaurants 431–2
Pharmacies 465
Phatthalung 388
Phaulkon, Constantine 167, 179 Phra That Renu (Renu Nakhon)
Phaulkon Residence (Lop Buri) 300
179 Phra Wanawatwichit 129
Phayao 256 Phrae 243, 262–3
Phea Muang Phi 263 hotels 406
Phet River 330, 334 restaurants 426
Phetchaburi 310, 329, 330, Phrao 13, 224
332–4 Phrase book 508–512
hotels 410 Phraya Aniruttheva, Major
restaurants 431 General 110
Street-by-Street map 332–3 Phraya Surin Phakdi Si Narong
Phi Phi Don 376 Wang 283
see also Ko Phi Phi Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park
Phi Phi Ley 377 292
see also Ko Phi Phi Phu Kradung National Park 11, 15,
Phi Phi-Hat Nopparat Thara 266, 290–91
National Marine Park 374, 376 hotels 408
Phi Ta Khon Festival (Loei) 51, 53, Phu Man Khao 292
288, 293 Phu Manorom 302
Phibun Songkram 26, 57, 72 Phu Phrabat Historical Park 59,
Phichit Boat Races (Nan) 54 299
Phimai see Prasat Hin Phimai Phu Rua National Park 11, 15, 292
Phitsanulok 191, 205 Phuket 10, 17, 348, 356, 357, 362–7
hotels 404 airport 473
restaurants 422 car rental 479
Phitsanulok Buddha 164–5 festivals 51, 54, 364
Phitsanulok Road (Bangkok) 110 history 351
Phlio waterfall 325 hotels 411
Phnom Penh 298 map 362–3
Phnom Rung see Prasat Hin Khao restaurants 432–3
Phnom Rung tourist police 465
Phone Kingphet 48, 291 see also Phuket town
Phone Phop waterfall 291 Phuket FantaSea 366
Phonecards 470 Phuket province, festivals 54
Photography Phuket town 363, 364–5
Imaging Technology Museum map 365
(Bangkok) 121 Vegetarian Festival 364
King Bhumibol’s Photographic Phum Duang River 337
Museums (Bangkok) 106 Phumintharacha, King 184
Phra Anon 278 Pillars
Phra Boromathat Chaiya (Chaiya) Phrae Muang Phi 263
61, 337 Sao Din 259
Phra Buddha Chinarat 205 Ping River Valley 13, 78, 236
Phra Buddha Sihing 92 Kamphaeng Phet 196
Phra Chaiya Wiwat 337 Tak 195
Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park Piphat bands 46, 48
(Phetchaburi) 333, 334 Piphek 44
Phra Nang, Princess 374 Pisai Sayalak Tower (Ayutthaya)
Phra Pathom Chedi (Nakhon 180
Pathom) 138 Piya Mit 395
festivals 54 Places of worship see Religion
Phra Pathom Chedi National Plan Architecture 123
Museum (Nakhon Pathom) Planetariums, Bangkok
138 Planetarium 140
Phra Phutthabat 176 Plants
Phra Phutthabat Fair (Saraburi) landscape of Thailand 32–3
50, 52 orchids 224
Phra Phutthachai 176 poppies 237
Phra Song Road (Phetchaburi) Rafflesia kerri 361
332 Poetry of Sunthorn Phu 323
Phra That Chaw Hae Fair 52 Poi Sang Long Festival (Mae
Phra That Naphamataneedon Hong Son) 50–51, 52
(Doi Inthanon) 234 Police
Phra That Nong Khai (Nong Khai) highway police 479
297 tourist police 464, 465

Polio 466
Politics 27–9
Population and Community
Development Association
(PDA) 255
Postal system 470–71
Pottery see Ceramics
POW Cemetery (Kanchanaburi)
170
Prachuap Khiri Khan 329, 336
hotels 410
restaurants 431
Prajadhipok (Rama VII), King 72
Chitrlada Palace (Dusit) 84
Grand Palace (Bangkok) 89
Wat Suwan Dararam
(Ayutthaya) 182
Prajak Road (Nong Khai) 296
Prang Khaek (Lop Buri) 179
Prang Sam Yot (Lop Buri) 179
Prap Ho Monument (Nong Khai)
296
Prasart Museum (Bangkok)
141
Prasart Vongsakul 141
Prasat Hin Khao Phnom Rung 11,
15, 38, 61, 266, 284–5
Fair 52
Prasat Hin Muang Tam 282–3
Prasat Hin Phimai 11, 15, 61, 264–
5, 266, 274, 280–81
hotels 407
restaurants 426
Prasat Khao Phra Wihan 267, 306
Prasat Muang Sing 174
Prasat Prang Ku 306
Prasat Ta Muen 282
Prasat Ta Muen Tot 282
Prasat Thong, King 65
Bang Pa-in Palace 185
Wat Chai Watthanaram
(Ayutthaya) 184
Wat Na Phra Men (Ayutthaya)
184
Prathamakant (Khon Kaen) 436,
439
Pratunam (Bangkok) 123
Pratunam Market (Bangkok) 123,
145
Prayun Bunnag 132
Prehistoric Thailand 58–9
Ban Kao 174
Pha Taem 302–3
Phangnga Bay 350
Upper Andaman Coast 377
Prem Tinsulanond bridge 391
Prickly heat 466
Pridi Phanomyong 72
Prince of Lampang’s Palace 41
Princess Mother 122
Promthep, Cape 362, 366, 367
Prostitution 120
Provincial buses 477
Public holidays 55
Public toilets 465
PULO (Pattani United Liberation
Organization) 464
Puppets 146, 147, 442
hun krabok 44, 47
nang talung shadow puppets
389
nang yai 45
Phatthalung 388
Shadow Puppet Theater
(Nakhon Si Thammarat) 382,
437, 439
shops 437, 439
What to Buy in Thailand 440
Q Ramakien 29, 44–5, 68
Qantas Airways 472, 474
Queen’s Park (Bangkok) 140
R Ramathibodi I, King 64
Rabies 467
Rachabrapha Dam 360
Racing, horse see Horse racing
Radio 471
Rafflesia kerri 361
Rafting, whitewater rafting 13,
447, 452
Rahu 181, 297
Railay-Phra Nang headland 374,
450
Railroads see Trains
Railway market (Maeklong)
456–7
Rainfall 54
Raintree (Bangkok) 443, 445
Rainy season 53–4
Raja’s Fashions (Bangkok) 143
Rama
Prasat Hin Phimai 280
Ramakien 44–5
Rama I, King see Chao Phraya
Chakri
Rama II, King 68
Grand Palace and Wat Phra
Kaeo (Bangkok) 84, 89
and the poetry of Sunthorn Phu
323
Wat Arun (Bangkok) 130
Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 87
Wat Suthat (Bangkok) 94
Rama III, King 68, 69
and gestures of the Buddha 177
Golden Mount (Bangkok) 91
Grand Palace (Bangkok) 89
Phatthalung 388
and the poetry of Sunthorn Phu
323
Wat Arun (Bangkok) 130
Wat Bowonniwet (Bangkok) 90
Wat Chalerm Phrakiet
(Nonthaburi) 139
Wat Kanlayanimit (Bangkok)
132
Wat Pho (Bangkok) 96
Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 86, 87
Wat Prayun (Bangkok) 132
GENERAL INDEX  497
Rama III, King (cont.)
Wat Suthat (Bangkok) 94
Wat Suwannaram (Bangkok)
128
Wat Thung Si Muang (Ubon
Ratchathani) 307
Rama IV, King see Mongkut
Rama IX, King see Bhumibol
Adulyadej
Rama V, King see Chulalongkorn
Rama VI, King see Vajiravudh
Rama VII, King see Prajadhipok
Rama VIII, King see Ananda
Mahidol
Grand Palace and Wat Phra
Kaeo (Bangkok) 84, 87
khon (dance-drama) 46
Ayutthaya 180
Wat Phra Ram (Ayutthaya) 181
Ramathibodi II, King 64
Wat Phra Si Sanphet (Ayutthaya)
182
Ramayana 269, 281
Ramesuan, King 64
Wat Mahathat (Ayutthaya) 180
Wat Phra Ram (Ayutthaya) 181
Ramkamhaeng, King 57, 412
King Ramkamhaeng
Monument (Sukhothai
Historical Park) 199
Old Sukhothai 62–3, 198
royal white elephants 110
Tak 194–5
Wat Chang Lom 204
Ramkamhaeng National Museum
(Sukhothai Historical Park)
198–9
Ramkamhaeng National Park
201
Ramkamhaeng Stone 62, 92
Rang Hill (Phuket town) 364
Ranong 360
hotels 411
restaurants 433
Ratchaburi 136
Ratchaburi National Museum
136
Ratchadamnoen Avenue
(Bangkok) 111
Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium
(Bangkok) 111, 146, 147, 444,
445
Rattan 437, 439
What to Buy in Thailand 440
Rattanakosin style 94
religious architecture 39
Wat Suwannaram (Bangkok)
128
Rayavadee Spa 454, 455
Rayong 321
hotels 409
Reassurance, as a gesture of the
Buddha 177
498  GENERAL INDEX

Receiving of the Lotus Festival
(Bang Phli) 51, 54
Reclining posture of the Buddha
177
Red House 41
Reefs, coral see Coral reefs
Refugees, Thailand-Burma border
195
Refunds in shops 142, 434
Religion
hill tribes 211
religious architecture 38–9
religious organizations 460,
461
see also Buddhism
Rental accommodations 399
Renting cars, mopeds and
bicycles 478–9
Renu Nakhon 300
Reservoirs
Bhumibol 236
Kaeng Krachan 334
Sirikit 263
Resort hotels 398
Responsible travel 461
Restaurants 412–33
Bangkok 418–20
coffee shops 412
Deep South 433
drinks 415
Eastern Seaboard 428–9
eating habits 413
Far North 424–6
Flavours of Thailand 414–15
glossary of dishes 416–17
khantoke dining 413
Khorat Plateau 426–7
Mekong River Valley 427–8
North Central Plains 421–2
Northwest Heartland 422–4
prices 413
South Central Plains 421
tipping 413, 463
Upper Andaman Coast 431–3
Western Seaboard 429–31
see also Food and drink
Restraining the waters as a
gesture of the Buddha 177
Riboud, Marc 269
Rice
and the monsoon 30–31
and religion 43
rice dishes 417
Rickshas 480
Rights, in shops 142, 434
River City (Bangkok) 143, 436, 439
River houses 41
River view of Bangkok 78–9
Riverboats
Bangkok 481
Chao Phraya Express 449, 453
Chao Phraya River 78
Riverside, The (Bangkok) 443, 445
Road maps 479
Road signs 479
Roads 478–9 Sala Rim Nam (Bangkok) 146, 147,
Roadside food stands 412–13 442, 445
Robins, A.O. 312 Salawin River 236
Robinson’s (Bangkok) 435, 439 Salt deficiency 466
Robot Building (Bangkok) 73, 123 Samdej Phra Narai National
Rock-climbing 450, 453 Museum (Lop Buri) 178
Krabi 375 Samet see Ko Samet
Rocket Festival (Yasothon) 51, 52, Samlors 480
275, 278 Sampeng Lane Market (Bangkok)
Roi Et 277 145
hotels 407 Sampran Riverside (Bangkok)
restaurants 426 138, 442, 445
Roman Catholic Church 167, 184 San Kamphaeng 232–3
Church of the Immaculate San Kamphaeng Hot Springs 233
Conception (Chanthaburi) San Somdej Prachao Taksin
324–5 (Chanthaburi) 324
Rose Garden (Bangkok) see Sanam Chandra Palace (Nakhon
Sampran Riverside (Bangkok) Pathom) 138
Royal Bangkok Sports Club 121, Sanam Luang (Bangkok) 79, 111
444, 445, 451 festivals 50
Royal barges 64–5 Street-by-Street map 82–3
Royal Barge Museum (Bangkok) Sanchao Dtai Hong Kong
128–9 (Bangkok) 101
Royal Chalermkrung (Sala) Sanchao Kun Oo (Bangkok) 100
Theater (Bangkok) 146, 147, Sangaroon Ratagasikorn 140
442, 445 Sangkhalok pottery 63, 164, 165,
Royal houses 41 204
Royal Paraphernalia Museum Sangkhla Buri 41, 172
(Bangkok) 106 hotels 404
Royal Plowing Ceremony Sangkhom 295
(Bangkok) 50, 52 Mekong villages tour 295
Royal Thai cuisine 42 Sanphet Maha Prasat 88
Royal Turf Club (Bangkok) 110 Santikhiree see Mae Salong
Royal white elephants 110, 257 Sao Din 259
Royalty, etiquette 462 Saowapha Phongsi, Queen 95
Ruamit 255 Saphan Han Market (Bangkok)
Rubber plantations 102
Phanagnga Bay 371 Sapphires 314–15
Trang province 385 Saraburi, festivals 50, 52
Rubies 314–15 Sarit Thanarat 72
Rugby 444, 445 Sathing Phra 350, 391
Rules of the road 479 Satun 392
Sawankha Woranayok National
S Museum (Sawankhalok) 204
Sa Anodat pond 291 Sawankhalok 204
Sa Phra Nang 374 Saxophone Pub (Bangkok) 443,
Saam Yekh Akha 250 445
Saenphu 252 Scuba diving 353
Safari World (Bangkok) 140, Sea gypsies 367
448 Ko Lanta 377
Safety see Personal security Ko Lipey 392
Sai River 250 Ko Phi Phi 376–7
Sai Yok National Park 173 Seacon Square (Bangkok) 435,
Saigon 298 439
Sailing 447, 452 Seafood 417
St. Francis Xavier Church seafood of the South 393
(Bangkok) 108 Seatran Discovery Ferry 477
St. Joseph’s Church (Ayutthaya) SEAWrite Award 119
166, 184 Senior Travelers 460
Sairung falls 385 Sergeant Major Thawee’s Folk
Sakai tribespeople 385, 395 Museum (Phitsanulok) 205
Sakhon Nakhon 289, 300 Serpents, naga figures 232
Sala Chalermkrung (Royal) Sex workers 120
Theater (Bangkok) 146, 147, AIDS risk 467
442, 445 sexually transmitted diseases 467

Shadow Puppet Theater (Nakhon
Si Thammarat) 382, 437, 439
Shadow puppets see Puppets
Shan (Tai Yai) tribespeople
festivals 50–51
Mae Hong Son 220
Pai 223
Tham Chiang Dao 224
Shan United Army 237
Shinawatra (Bangkok) 436, 439
Shiraz (Chiang Mai) 438, 439
Shiva 119, 300
Giant Swing (Bangkok) 95
Ho Phra I-suan Shrine (Nakhon
Si Thammarat) 382–3
Prasat Hin Khao Phnom Rung
284, 285
Prasat Hin Phimai 280
Prasat Khao Phra Wihan 306
Shivalinga 269
Shop-houses, Chinese 103
Shopping 434–41, 439
airport 473
antiques 143, 438, 439
arts and crafts 143, 436, 439
Bangkok 142–3
Bangkok’s markets 144–5
bargaining 142, 434
bookstores 143, 439
ceramics 437, 439
clothes 143, 436, 439
craft centers 143, 435, 439
department stores and malls
142, 143, 434–5, 439
electronic goods 143
factories 435
fake goods 435
gems 143, 438, 439
hill-tribe artifacts 436, 439
jewelry 143, 438, 439
kalaga tapestries 437
lacquerware 437
markets and street vendors 142,
435
masks 437
musical instruments 437
nielloware 437
opening hours 142, 434, 460
paying 142, 434
pewterware 437
puppets 437, 439
rights and refunds 142, 434
Thai silk 436, 439
What to Buy in Thailand 440–41
wood, bamboo and rattan 437, 439
Si Chiangmai 295
Mekong villages tour 295
Si Intharathit 62
King of Sukhothai
Wat Mahathat (Sukhothai) 200
Wat Phra Boromathat
(Kamphaeng Phet) 197
Si Nakharin National Park 173
Si Racha 317, 320
Si Racha Tiger Zoo 320
GENERAL INDEX  499
Si Satchanalai Snake bites 466
Ancient Capitals of Thailand 10, Snake Farm (Bangkok) 120
14 Snooker 444, 445
reconstruction of 62–3 Snorkeling 352, 446–7, 452
religious architecture 38 Soccer 444, 445
Si Satchanalai National Park 204 Society 27–9
Si Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical Sofitel Centara Grand Resort &
Park 14, 162, 202–3 Villas (Hua Hin) 312, 335
map 203 Song Tham, King of Ayutthaya
Si-oui 129 176
Siam Center (Bangkok) 142, 143 Songkhla 379, 390–91
Siam Cinema (Bangkok) 443, 445 hotels 411
Siam Commercial Bank (Bangkok) map 390
468 restaurants 433
Siam Discovery 142, 143 Songkhla National Museum 349,
Siam Express 478, 479 390
Siam, name changed to Thailand Songkran (Thai New Year) 30, 50,
26, 72 52
Siam Niramit (Bangkok) 146, 147 in the North 240
Siam Paragon (Bangkok) 12, 142, Songserm Express Boat 477
143, 435, 439 Songthaews 480
Siam Park (Bangkok) 140 Songwat Road (Bangkok) 100
Siam Society 140 Sop Ruak 13, 252
Siam Square (Bangkok) 122 Golden Triangle driving tour
Siamese twins 129 251
Siddhartha Gautama see Buddha see also Golden Triangle
Silk 142, 143, 436, 439 Soppong 222–3
and Jim Thompson 124–5 Soups 417
San Kamphaeng 233 bird’s-nest soup 345
silk production 270–71 South Central Plains 169–89
Surin 283 hotels 403–4
What to Buy in Thailand 441 map 170–71
Silom Complex (Bangkok) 142, restaurants 421
143, 435 Southeast Asia, map 18
Silom Road (Bangkok) 119 Southern Thailand 26, 347–95
Silom Village (Bangkok) 143, 146, coral reefs 352–3
147, 436, 439, 442, 445 Deep South 379–95
Silpakorn University of Fine Arts festivals 51
(Bangkok) 82 history 350–51
Silverware, What to Buy in mangrove forests 354–5
Thailand 441 maps 22–3, 348–9
Similan islands see Ko Similan Thailand’s Southern Beaches 10,
Simon Cabaret (Patong) 443, 17
445 Upper Andaman Coast
Singapore, Eastern & Oriental 357–77
Express 477 Spas 454–5
Singapore Airlines 472, 474 Spasso (Bangkok) 443, 445
Sirikit, Queen Special interest holidays
Her Majesty the Queen’s 446–53
Birthday 53 Speed limits 479
SUPPORT Museum (Bangkok) Spider Monkey 450, 453
109 Spirit Cave 58
Vimanmek Mansion (Bangkok) Spirit houses 41
109 Spiritual beliefs
Sirikit Reservoir 263 hill tribes 211
Sirindhorn Dam 303 see also Religion
Siriraj Hospital (Bangkok) 129 Sports 29
Sita 44–5 air sports 451, 453
Siwali Gardens (Bangkok) 89 bungee jumping 450, 453
Six Senses Hideaway Hua Hin canoeing 447, 452
(Pranburi) 454, 455 caving 450, 453
Six Senses Yao Noi 454, 455 cycling 450, 453
Skytrain (Bangkok) 481 diving and snorkeling 446–7,
Smoking 463 452
Snacks 416 golf 448, 452
500  GENERAL INDEX

Sports (cont.) Sukhothai School 164 Tam Munag On 233

horse riding 451, 453 Sukhumvit Road (Bangkok) 140 Tamagno, Mario 95
kayaking 447, 452 Sukrip 44 Tambralinga 382
krabi-krabong 444, 445 Sumet Jumsai 73 Tamils, Maha Uma Devi Temple
muay thai 444, 445 Sunantha, Queen 325 (Bangkok) 119
rock climbing 450, 453 Sunbathing 463 Tanboke Koranee National Park
rugby 444, 445 safety 466 371
sailing 447, 452 Sunshine 53 Tang To Kang Gold Shop
soccer 444, 445 Sunthorn Phu 29, 323 (Bangkok) 100
takraw 444 statues of 322, 323 Tansadet waterfall 343
Thai boxing 48–9 Suphran Buri 176 Tantrism 34
water sports 321, 447, 452 festivals 55 Taoism, Leng Noi Yee Temple
white-water rafting 447, 452 SUPPORT Museum (Bangkok) (Bangkok) 101, 103
ziplining 450–51, 453 107, 109 Tapestries, kalaga 437, 439
Springs Surat Thani 337 Tapi River 337
Fang area 246 bus terminal 477 Tarutao National Marine Park 349,
Khlong Thom 375 hotels 410 380, 392
Ranong 360 restaurants 431 TAT see Tourism Authority of
San Kamphaeng Hot Springs tourist police 465 Thailand
233 Surin 283 Tattoos 35
Sri Lanka, influence of 202 Elephant Roundup 275, 282, Taxes
Srivijaya Empire 57, 60, 61, 350 283 hotels 401
architecture 351 festivals 54 refunds 142, 434
Chaiya’s role 336 hotels 407 VAT 469
Nakhon Si Thammarat 382 restaurants 426–7 Taxis 480
SRT (State Railroad of Thailand) Surin island see Ko Surin motorcycle 320, 480
476 Surin Museum (Surin) 283 Suvarnabhumi International
STA Travel (Bangkok) 475 Suryavarman I, King 280 Airport 473
Stamp Market (Bangkok) 145 Suryavarman II, King 61 tipping 463
Standard Chartered Bank Suvarnabhumi International Teak 253
(Bangkok) 468 Airport (Bangkok) 472–3 Lampang 240
Standard Chartered Bank (Phuket Suwan Kuha Cave (Wat Tan) 370 teak houses (Phrae) 263
town) 364 Suwannakhet 302 Telephone Organization of
Stilt houses 129 Swimming, diving and snorkeling Thailand (TOT) 470
Stings, jellyfish 466 446–7 Telephones 470–71
Stomach upsets 466 see also Beaches cell phones 470
Stonework, Davaravati 60 Swing, Giant (Bangkok) dialing codes 471
Street vendors 435 see Giant Swing international calls 470
Suan Dok Gate (Chiang Mai) 230 local calls 470
Suan Pakkad Palace (Bangkok) T phonecards 470
123 T. Shinawatra Thai Silk (Chiang Television 471
Suan Son 321 Mai) 436, 439 Temperatures 55
Suay tribespeople Tachilek 250 coping with the heat 466
Ban Ta Klang 283 Taeng River 225 Temple of the Holy Footprint,
Surin 283 Tai people 25, 57, 60–61, 258 festival 50, 52
Suchart House (Nakhon Si Tai Yai see Shan Temples
Thammarat) 382 Tak 63, 194–5 fairs and festivals 444
Sukhothai 191, 198–201 hotels 405 Khmer 38, 268–9
Ancient Capitals of Thailand 10, restaurants 422 Maha Uma Devi Temple
14 Tak Bai 395 (Bangkok) 119
festivals 50, 54 Takraw 444 see also Prasat; Wat
hotels 404–5 Taksin, King 67, 68 Tenasserim Mountains 329, 358
Loy Krathong 199 Chanthaburi 324 Phangnga Bay 368
religious architecture 38 statue of 195, 324, 325 Terengganu 71
restaurants 422 Taksin Monument (Bangkok) Tetanus 467
Wat Mahathat 200–201 132 Tex Rock Climbing 450, 453
Sukhothai Historical Park 14, 163, Uttaradit 241 Textiles see Fabrics
198–9 Wat Arun (Bangkok) 130 Tha Bon 320
map 198 Taksin Maharat National Park Tha Chang Road (Nakhon Si
Sukhothai Kingdom 57, 62–3 195 Thammarat) 383
art 164–5 Taksin Monument (Bangkok) Tha Phae Gate (Chiang Mai) 230
Kamphaeng Phet 196–7 132 Tha Ton 246, 250, 255
music 46 Taksin Palace (Narathiwat) 395 hotels 407
Nan 258 Taksin Park (Chanthaburi) 324 Thai Air Asia 474
Wat Chang Lom 204 Takua Pa 350 Thai Airways 472, 474
 GENERAL INDEX  501

Thai Celadon House (Bangkok) Thao Suranari Monument Tourism Authority of Thailand
437, 439 (Khorat) 15, 279 (TAT) 27, 400, 459
Thai Elephant Conservation That Phanom headquarters (Bangkok) 459
Center (Lampang) 219, 241 hotels 408 logo 130
Thai food, Art of 42–3 restaurants 427 TAT offices 401, 459
see also Food and drink Thavorn Hotel Lobby Exhibition Tourist Assistance Center
Thai Hotels Association 398, 401 (Phuket town) 364 (Bangkok) 465
Thai Human Imagery Museum 138 Theater 46–7 Tourist information 459
Thai Lapidary (Bangkok) 439 modern 443, 445 Tourist police 464, 465
Thai Lion Air 474 traditional 146, 147, 442, 445 Tours 10–17
Thai Lue people 243 see also Khon ; Lakhon ; Likay Tours by car
Chiang Khong 253 Theme parks, Ancient City Golden Triangle driving tour
Doi Phu Kha National Park 258 (Bangkok) 141 250–51
Nong Bua 258 Theravada Buddhism see Mekong villages tour 294–5
Thai Massage School of Chiang Buddhism Trade routes, historic, Straits of
Mai 451, 453 Thewet Flower Market (Bangkok) Malacca 350–51
“Thai Modernism” 123 108, 145 Traditional Thai houses 40–41
Thai Orchid Service (Chiang Mai) Thi Lo Su falls 195 Trains 476, 477
475 Thieves’ Market (Bangkok) see Eastern & Oriental Express 477
Thai Red Cross 120 Nakorn Kasem Suvarnabhumi International
Thai Silk Company 125 Thip, General 67 Airport 473
Thai TicketMajor 442 Thompson, Jim 124, 125 Trang 384–5
Thai Tribal Crafts (Chiang Mai) Jim Thompson House festivals 54
436, 439 (Bangkok) 12, 124–5 Trang coast 380
Thailand Cultural Center Jim Thompson’s Silk Shop Trang’s Andaman Islands 384
(Bangkok) 443, 445 (Bangkok) 142, 143, 436, 439 Trat 327
Thailand Environment Institute 461 silk production 142, 270, 436 hotels 409
Thailand-Burma border refugees Thon Buri (Bangkok) 65, 68, 69, restaurants 429
195 127–33 Travel 472–81
Thailand-Burma Railroad Center area map 127 air 472–4
(Kanchanaburi) 174 hotels 403 bicycles 479
Thaksin Shinawatra 28, 73 restaurants 420 cars 478–9
Thalang 367 Wat Arun 130–31 Deep South 381
Battle of (1785) 363, 367 Thon Buri Station (Bangkok) 476, Eastern & Oriental Express 477
Thalang National Museum 477 Eastern Seaboard 319
(Phuket) 367 Thong Son 341 Far North 245
Thale Ban National Park 392 Three Pagodas Pass 172 Khorat Plateau 275
Thale Noi Waterfowl Park 389 Thung Kwian Forest Market 241 local transport 480
Tham Buabok 345 Thung Salaeng Luang National long-distance buses 476
Tham Chang Hai 385 Park 205 Mekong River Valley 289
Tham Chiang Dao 224 Thung Setthi Fort (Kamphaeng mopeds 478
Tham Hua Gralok 371 Phet) 197 North Central Plains 193
Tham Khao Luang 334 Thung Yai Naresuan 172–3 Northwest Heartland 219
Tham Lot (Phangnga Bay) 371 Tickets organized tours 475
Tham Lot (Soppong) 223, 450 airline 458 provincial buses 477
Tham Luang 250 entertainment 146, 442 samlors 480
Tham Morakhot (Ko Muk) 384 “Tiger economies” 27 Songthaews 480
Tham Pha Tup Forest 259 Tigers 223, 320 South Central Plains 171
Tham Phra Nang Nok 374 Tilok, King 66, 228 taxis 480
Tham Phraya Nakon 336 Time system 460–61 trains 476, 477
Tham Pla (Chiang Rai province) Tip Chang 238 tuk-tuks 480
250 Tipping 463 Upper Andaman Coast 359
Tham Pla (Mae Hong Son in hotels 401 Western Seaboard 330
province) 222 in restaurants 413 Travelers’ checks 469
Tham Pum 250 Toilets, public 465 Treatments, spa 455
Tham Sai 336 Ton Khem Market (Damnoen Trekking 448–9, 452
Tham Tup Tao 224 Saduak) 136 Chiang Dao 225
Thammasat University Ton Nga Chang waterfall 391 Tribal Research Institute (Chiang
(Bangkok) 83 Ton Tay falls 385 Mai) 231
Thammayut sect 307 Tong Nai Pan 343 Tribespeople see Hill tribes
Than Mayom waterfall 326–7 Tong Sala 343 Trimuk Pavilion (Ayutthaya)
Than Thip Falls 15, 295 Tosakan 44–5, 280 180–81
Thana City Golf and Country Club Touching the Earth, as a gesture Trooping of the Colors (Bangkok)
(Bangkok) 448, 452 of the Buddha 177 50, 55, 111
Thann Sanctuary (Bangkok) 455 Tourism 27 Tropic of Cancer 32
502  GENERAL INDEX

Tsunami (2004) 73, 348 Vessandorn, Prince 53, 293 Wat Chang Lom (Si Satchanalai-
Tuberculosis 466 Vessantara, Prince 124 Chalieng Historical Park) 14,
Tuk-tuks 480 Victoria Point 360 202, 204
Tung Tieo forest trail 375 Victoria, Queen of England 70, Wat Chang Lom (Sukhothai) 14,
Twins, Siamese 129 88 199
Typhoid 467 Vidal, Gore 119 Wat Chang Rop (Aranyik) 197
Vientiane 69, 298–9 Wat Chao Chan (Si Satchanalai-
U map 298 Chalieng Historical Park) 203
U Thong National Museum 176 Vietnam War 72, 246 Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo (Si
Ubon National Museum (Ubon Khorat 278 Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical
Ratchathani) 307 Pathet Lao 299 Park) 202
Ubon Ratchathani 306–7 Pattaya 313, 321 Wat Chedi Luang (Chiang Mai)
festivals 51, 53 Ubon Ratchathani 306 12, 229, 230
hotels 408 Udon Thani 276 Wat Chedi Luang (Chiang Saen)
map 307 Vietnamese quarter 232
restaurants 427–8 (Chanthaburi) 16, 324 Wat Chedi Si Hong (Sukhothai)
Udayadityavarman 61 Viking Cave (Phi Phi Ley) 377 201
Udon Thani 276 Vimanmek Mansion (Bangkok) Wat Chedi Sung (Sukhothai) 14,
hotels 407 107, 108–9 199
restaurants 427 VISA 468 Wat Cheng (Ubon Ratchathani)
Umbrellas Visakha Bucha 50, 52–3 307
Bo Sang 212, 232 Visas 458–9 Wat Chet Yot (Chiang Mai) 231
Umbrella Fair (Bo Sang) 50, 55 Vishnu 35, 119, 300, 394 Wat Chet Yot (Chiang Rai) 254
Umphang 195 Prasat Hin Phimai 281 Wat Chetuphon (Bangkok) see
hotels 405 Prasat Prang Ku 306 Wat Pho
restaurants 422 statues of 59, 279, 382 Wat Chiang Man (Chiang Mai) 12,
Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary Sukhothai art 164 39, 219, 230
195 VOC (Dutch East India Company) Wat Chom Sawan (Phrae) 263
UNESCO World Heritage Sites 167 Wat Chong Kham (Mae Hong
Kamphaeng Phet 197 Son) 221
Old Sukhothai 198 W Wat Chong Klang (Mae Hong
Thung Yai Naresuan and Huai Wai (greeting) 28, 462 Son) 221
Kha Khaeng 172 Walking see trekking Wat Chong Kra Chok (Prachuap
United Airlines 472, 474 “Walking” Buddha 63, 164 Khiri Khan) 336
United Kingdom Embassy 459 Walking Street (Pattaya) 16, 321 Wat Chong Sung (Mae Sariang)
United States Embassy 459 Wang Luang (Ayutthaya) 180–81 236
Upper Andaman Coast 357–77 Wang River 240 Wat Chulamani (Phitsanulok
cave paintings 377 Warorot Market (Chiang Mai) 13, province) 205
hotels 410–411 230 Wat Chumphon Khiri (Mae Sot)
map 358–9 Wat Arun (Bangkok) 79, 130–31 192, 194
restaurants 431–3 Wat Atsadang (Ko Sichang) 321 Wat Doi Kong Mu (Mae Hong
UPS 471 Wat Benchamabophit (Bangkok) Son) 221
Ussa, Princess 299 39, 47, 71, 110–111 Wat Doi Saket (Doi Saket) 232
Uthai’s Gems (Bangkok) 438, 439 Wat Bot Mani Sibunruang (Tak) Wat Doi Suthep (Chiang Mai
Utopia 460, 461 194, 195 province) 12–13, 226–7
Uttaradit 241 Wat Bowonniwet (Bangkok) Wat Dok Ban (Ngao) 256
90 Wat Hai Sok (Vientiane) 299
V Wat Bun Thawi (Phetchaburi) Wat Haisoke (Nong Khai) 297
Vaccinations 466 334 Wat Hat Yai Nai (Hat Yai) 391
Vachirathan waterfall 218 Wat Bupharam (Trat) 327 Wat Hin Mak Peng 295
Vajiravudh (Rama VI), King 71, Wat Buraphaphiram (Roi Et) 277 Wat Hua Khon (Si Satchanalai-
72 Wat Chai Mongkhon (Songkhla) Chalieng Historical Park) 203
archaeological interests of 165 390 Wat Hua Wiang (Mae Hong Son)
Ban Phitsanulok (Bangkok) 110 Wat Chai Watthanaram 220
Grand Palace (Bangkok) 89 (Ayutthaya) 65, 168, 184 Wat Indrawihan (Bangkok) 108
Mareukathayawan Palace 335 Wat Chaiyo Wora Wihan (Ang Wat Jong Paen (Fang) 246
Siam Society 140 Thong province) 176 Wat Kalothai (Kamphaeng Phet)
statue of 121 Wat Chalerm Phrakiet 197
Ubon Ratchathani 307 (Nonthaburi) 139 Wat Kamphaeng Laeng
Van Heekeren 174 Wat Chama Thewi (Lamohun) (Phetchaburi) 333
VAT 469 233 Wat Kanlayanimit (Bangkok)
Vegetables 137 Wat Chan Khao Manirat (Huay 132
carving 42 Xai) 253 Wat Khaek (Nong Khai) 15, 297
Vegetarian Festival (Phuket) 51, Wat Chang Kham Wora Wihan Wat Khao Chan Ngam (Khorat)
54, 364 (Nan) 259 279

Wat Khao Lad (Hua Hin) 335
Wat Khao Phnom Phloeng (Si
Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical
Park) 203
Wat Khao Sukim (Chanthaburi
province) 319, 323
Wat Khao Yai Bon (Si Satchanalai-
Chalieng Historical Park)
203
Wat Khian (Nonthaburi) 139
Wat Khlong Thom (Khlong Thom)
375
Wat Khong Chiam (Khong
Chiam) 303
Wat Khuha Phimuk (Yala) 394
Wat Khun In Pramun (Ang Thong
province) 176
Wat Klang (Pai) 223
Wat Kow Tahm (Ko Pha Ngan)
451, 453
Wat Kuti Dao (Ayutthaya) 184
Wat Kuti Rai (Si Satchanalai-
Chalieng Historical Park) 203
Wat Lak Muang (Si Satchanalai-
Chalieng Historical Park) 203
Wat Lamduan (Nong Khai) 297
Wat Lokaya Sutharam (Ayutthaya)
181
Wat Luang (Chiang Khong) 253
Wat Luang (Phrae) 262
Wat Mae Phrae Museum
(Bangkok) 108
Wat Maha Wanaram (Ubon
Ratchathani) 307
Wat Mahathat (Bangkok) 82, 90
cultural studies 451, 453
Wat Mahathat (Phetchaburi)
332
Wat Mahathat (Sukhothai
Historical Park) 14, 38, 160–61,
198–9, 200–201
Wat Mahathat Yasothon
(Yasothon) 278
Wat Maheyong (Ayutthaya)
185
Wat Mixai (Vientiane) 298
Wat Mongkol Nimit (Phuket
town) 365
Wat Muen Ngon Kong (Chiang
Mai) 228
Wat Mungmuang (Chiang Rai)
254
Wat Na Phra Men (Ayutthaya) 39,
184
Wat Nang Phaya (Si Satchanalai-
Chalieng Historical Park) 202
Wat Nong Bua (Nong Bua) 245,
258
Wat Ong Theu (Vientiane) 299
Wat Pa Daet (Mae Chaem) 236
Wat Pa Mamuang (Sukhothai)
201
Wat Pa Mok (Ang Thong
province) 176
Wat Pa Sak (Chiang Saen) 253
GENERAL INDEX
Wat Pathum Wanaram (Bangkok)
122
Wat Phan Tao (Chiang Mai) 39, 67,
229
Wat Phan Waen (Chiang Mai)
228
Wat Phanan Choeng (Ayutthaya)
14, 185
Wat Pho (Bangkok) 12, 79, 80,
96–7
cultural studies 451
Wat Pho Chai (Nong Khai) 296
Wat Pho Si Nai (Ban Chiang) 276
Wat Phra Bat (Phrae) 245, 262
Wat Phra Boromathat
(Kamphaeng Phet) 197
Wat Phra Boromathat (Uttaradit)
241
Wat Phra Kaeo (Bangkok) 12, 68,
79, 84–7
bot and peripheral buildings 86
festivals 52
northern terrace 87
prangs 87
Ramakien Gallery 84, 87
Ramakien murals 44–5
upper terrace 86–7
yakshas 87
Wat Phra Kaeo (Chiang Rai) 10,
13, 254
Wat Phra Kaeo Don Tao
(Lampang) 240
Wat Phra Kaeo (Kamphaeng
Phet) 196–7
Wat Phra Mahathat (Ayutthaya)
14, 180
Wat Phra Mahathat (Nakhon Si
Thammarat) 379, 382
Wat Phra Narai Maharat (Khorat)
279
Wat Phra Non (Phrae) 262
Wat Phra Phai Luang (Sukhothai)
164
Wat Phra Ram (Ayutthaya) 14,
181
Wat Phra Ruang (Phrae) 262
Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat
(Lop Buri) 179
Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat
(Phitsanulok) 193, 205
Phitsanulok Buddha 164–5
Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (Si
Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical
Park) 203
Wat Phra Si Sanphet (Ayutthaya)
14, 39, 182–3
Wat Phra Sing (Chiang Mai) 12,
39, 67, 229, 230
Wat Phra Sing (Chiang Rai) 254
Wat Phra That Chae Haeng (Nan)
259
Wat Phra That Chaw Hae (Phrae)
263
Wat Phra That Chedi Luang
(Chiang Saen) 252
 503
Wat Phra That Choeng Chum
(Sakhon Nakhon) 289, 300
Wat Phra That Chom Kitti (Chiang
Saen) 253
Wat Phra That Doi Thong (Chiang
Rai) 254
Wat Phra That Doi Tung (Chiang
Rai province) 10, 13, 247
Wat Phra That Doi Wao (Mae Sai)
250
Wat Phra That Haripunchai
(Lamphun) 233
Wat Phra That (Kamphaeng Phet)
197
Wat Phra That Lampang Luang
(Lampang) 66, 217, 238–9,
240
Wat Phra That Mae Yen (Pai) 223
Wat Phra That Narai Cheng Weng
(Sakhon Nakhon) 300
Wat Phra That Nong Bua (Ubon
Ratchathani) 307
Wat Phra That Pha Ngao (Chiang
Saen) 251, 253
Wat Phra That Phanom (That
Phanom) 267, 301
Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong
(Chom Thong) 236
Wat Phra Tong (Phuket) 362
Wat Phraphutthabat Bok (Phu
Phrabat Historical Park) 299
Wat Phu Khao Thong (Ayutthaya)
184
Wat Phumin (Nan) 13, 258,
260–61
Wat Phuttha Tiwat (Betong) 395
Wat Phutthaisawan (Ayutthaya)
184
Wat Pongsanuk Tai (Lampang)
240–41
Wat Pradu Songtham (Ayutthaya)
185
Wat Prayun (Bangkok) 132
Wat Rachabophit (Bangkok) 71,
94–5
Wat Rachanadda (Bangkok) 91
Wat Rachapradit (Bangkok) 95
Wat Rakhang (Bangkok) 37, 78,
129
Wat Ram Poeng (Chiang Mai)
231
Wat Rang Khun (Chiang Rai)
255
Wat Ratchaburana (Ayutthaya)
39, 180
Wat Ratchaburana (Phitsanulok)
205
Wat Sa Si (Sukhothai Historical
Park) 63
Wat Saket (Bangkok) 38, 91
Wat Sala Loi (Khorat) 279
Wat Sao Thong Thong (Lop Buri)
178
Wat Sao Thong Tong (Nakhon Si
Thammarat) 383
504  GENERAL INDEX
Wat Saphan Hin (Sukhothai) 14,
201
Wat Si Bunruang (Mai Sariang)
236
Wat Si Chum (Lampang) 241
Wat Si Chum (Phrae) 263
Wat Si Chum (Sukhothai) 14, 38,
63
Wat Si Khun Muang (Nong Khai)
297
Wat Si Komkam (Phayao) 256
Wat Si Mongkol Thai (Mukdahan)
302
Wat Si Muang (Nong Khai) 296
Wat Si Muang (Vientiane)
299
Wat Si Sawai 198
Wat Si Sumang (Nong Khai)
297
Wat Si Suthawat (Wiang Pa Pao)
256
Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram (Ubon
Ratchathani) 307
Wat Sisaket (Vientiane) 298
Wat Sok Pa Luang (Vientiane)
299
Wat Sorasak (Sukhothai) 164,
199
Wat Suan Dok (Chiang Mai)
231
Wat Suan Mok (Chaiya) 337
Wat Suan Phu (Bangkok) 117
Wat Suan Tan (Nan) 259
Wat Supattanaram Worawihan
(Ubon Ratchathani) 307
Wat Suthat (Bangkok) 39, 69,
94
Wat Suwan Dararam (Ayutthaya)
182
Wat Suwan Khiri (Si Satchanalai-
Chalieng Historical Patk) 14,
203
Wat Suwannaram (Bangkok)
128
Wat Tapotaram (Ranong) 360
Wat Tha Khaek (Chiang Khan)
294
Wat Tha Kok (Chiang Khan)
294
Wat Tha Thanon (Uttaradit)
241
Wat Tha Ton (Tha Ton) 246
Wat Thai Watthanaram (Tak
province) 194
Wat Tham Chiang Dao (Doi
Chiang Dao) 224
Wat Tham Khao Pun
(Kanchanaburi) 174
Wat Tham Kuha Sawan
(Phatthalung) 388
Wat Tham Sua (Krabi) 375
Wat Tham Yai Prik (Ko Sichang)
321
Wat Thammikarat (Ayutthaya)
180
Wat Thep Phitak Punnaram
(Khorat) 279
Wat Thung Sawang (Yasothon)
278
Wat Thung Si Muang (Ubon
Ratchathani) 307
Wat Traimit (Bangkok) 102
Wat Traphang Thong (Sukhothai)
192, 199
Wat U Mong (Chiang Mai) 231
Wat Wang (Phatthalung) 388
Wat Wangwiwekaram (Sangkhla
Buri) 172
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
(Ayutthaya) 14, 171, 185
Wat Yai Suwannaram
(Phetchaburi) 333
Wat Yot Kaew Siwachai
(Mukdahan) 302
Water
drinking water 466
water-borne diseases 467
Water sports 321, 447, 452
Waterfalls
Erawan falls 173
Haeo Suwat waterfall 188
Huai Khamin falls 173
Huay Sadeh waterfall 374
Huay To waterfall 374
Khao Chamao waterfall 323
Khao Phra Taew Forest Park
367
Khlong Lan waterfall 196
Khlong Phlu waterfall 11, 16,
327
Klong Pla-Gang waterfall 323
Krathin waterfall 324
Mae Ya waterfall 235
Namuang waterfall 17, 342
Pha Charoen falls 194
Phlio waterfall 325
Phone Phop waterfall 291
Phu Kradung National Park
290–91
Sairung falls 385
Tansadet waterfall 343
Than Mayom waterfall 326–7
Than Thip falls 15, 295
Thi Lo Su falls 195
Ton Nga Chang waterfall 391
Ton Tay falls 385
Waterskiing 447
Waterways (Bangkok) 481
Wats 29
and etiquette 463
and popular Buddhist rituals
133
Wat complex 36–7
Weather 52–5
coping with the heat 466
monsoon seasons 30–31
when to go 458
Weaving
kalaga tapestries 437, 439
silk 271
Western Seaboard 329–45
hotels 409–410
map 331
restaurants 429–31
Western writers in Bangkok
119
Wetlands 33
Wheelchair access see Disabled
travelers
White Elephant Monument (Doi
Suthep) 226
Whitewater rafting 447, 452
Wiang Pa Pao 13, 256
Wichai Prasit Fortress (Bangkok)
132
Wickerwork, What to Buy in
Thailand 440
Wihan Lai Kham (Chiang Mai)
229, 230
Wihan Phra Mongkhon
(Ayutthaya) 181
Wihans 37
Wild Tigers 72
Wildlife 27, 32–3
Angthong National Marine Park
344
Bang Phra Reservoir 320
Banthat Mountains 385
Birds of Northern Thailand
214–15
coral reefs 352–3
Crocodile Farm (Bangkok) 141
Doi Inthanon National Park
234–5
dugongs 385
Elephant Nature Park (Mae
Taeng Valley) 225
Gibbon Rehabilitation Project
(Phuket) 362, 367
Huai Kha Khaeng 172–3
Kaeng Krachen National Park
334
Khao Chong Nature and Study
Center 385
Khao Phanom Bencha National
Park 374
Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park
336
Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary
324
Khao Sok National Park 360
Khao Yai National Park
188–9
Khlong Lan National Park
196
Ko Chang 326
Ko Surin and Ko Similan 361
Mae Wong National Park 196
Mae Yom National Park 256
mangrove forests 354–5
Marine Research Center
(Phuket) 363, 367
Monkey Hill (Phuket) 363
Namtok Phlio National Park
325

Wildlife (cont.)
Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park
292
Phu Kradung National Park
290–91
Phu Rua National Park 292
Phuket FantaSea 266
Snake Farm (Bangkok) 120
Surin Elephant Roundup 275,
282, 283
Tarutao National Marine Park
392
Thai Elephant Conservation
Center (Lampang) 241
Thailand’s endangered wildlife
223
Thale Ban National Park
392
Thale Noi Waterfowl Park
389
Thung Yai Naresuan 172–3
tips for bird-watching 215
Umphang Wildlife
Sanctuary 195
GENERAL INDEX  505
Wildlife (cont.) Y
Wat Doi Suthep 226–7 Yala 380, 394
wildlife watching 449, 453 festivals 52
see also Zoos Yaowarat Road (Bangkok) 101
Windsurfing 447 Yasothon 278
Wine, customs allowances 459 Rocket Festival 51, 52, 275, 278
Women travelers 464–5 Yawi language 379
Wood, Thailand’s teak industry 253 Yellow fever 466
Wood-carving 437, 439 Yingluck Shinawatra 28, 73
What to Buy in Thailand 440 Yom River 62
World Bank 303 Mae Yom National Park 256
World Fellowship of Buddhists Phrae 262
(Bangkok) 451, 453 Si Satchanalai 202, 203
World Travel Service Ltd Yot Fa, King 184
(Bangkok) 475 Yuam River 236
World War II 72
Bridge over the Khwae Yai River Z
175 Ziplining 450–51, 453
Burma-Siam Railroad 172, 174 Zoos
Burma-Thailand Railroad Dusit Zoo (Bangkok) 109, 448
Memorial Trail 173 Khao Khieo Zoo 320
JEATH War Museum Safari World (Bangkok) 140, 448
(Kanchanaburi) 174–5 Si Racha Tiger Zoo 320
Kanchanaburi 174 see also Wildlife
506  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people
whose contributions and assistance have made the
preparation of this book possible.
Main Contributor
Philip Cornwel-Smith is a journalist focusing on entertainment,
lifestyle and topical issues. After working on guides to London,
in 1994 he moved to Thailand and was founding editor of the
Bangkok listings magazine Metro.
Andrew Forbes has studied Thai history and culture for more
than 20 years and has lived in the country on and off since
1984. He writes for the Asian Wall Street Journal and Far Eastern
Economic Review among other publications.
Tim Forsyth is a writer and lecturer at the London School of
Economics. He has travelled extensively throughout Northern
Thailand and other parts of Southeast Asia.
Rachel Harrison has lectured at the School of Oriental and
African Studies in London and contributed to Thai phrase
books. She has a special interest in Northeast Thailand.
David Henley is director of Crescent Press Agency’s Thailand
Bureau and has lived in Thailand for more than a decade.
An authority on Thai cuisine, he contributes regularly to
the Bangkok Post and The Australian.
John Hoskin has been based in Bangkok since 1980. He is the
author of several books on travel, art and culture in Thailand and
Indochina, including The Mekong: A River and Its People.
Gavin Pattison is a London-based writer who has contributed
to the Blue Guide to Thailand among other titles. He has
travelled extensively in Thailand, Indonesia, and other parts
of Southeast Asia.
Picture Research Sumita Khatwani, Vicky Peel, Ellen Root.
Additional Illustrations Robert Ashby, Graham Bell, Peter Bull,
Joanna Cameron, Chris Forsey, Paul Guest, Stephen Gyapay,
Ruth Lindsay, Maltings Partnership, Mel Pickering, Robbie
Polley, Sally Anne Reisen, Mike Taylor, Pat Thorne, Paul Weston.
Additional Photography Alberto Cassio, Peter Chadwick,
CPA Media, Philip Dowell, Neil Fletcher, Allen Hopkins, Dave King,
Brent Madison, James Marshall, Alan Newnham, Ian O’Leary,
Alex Robinson, Rough Guides/Martin Richardson, Rough
Guides/Karen Trist; Mick Shippen, Harry Taylor.
Additional Cartography Christine Purcell and Gary Bowes
(ERA-Maptec Ltd).
Revisions Team Alexander Allan, Emma Anacootee, Gillian
Allan, Douglas Amrine, Vicky Barber, Kate Berens, Tessa Bindloss,
Rohan Bolton, Vivien Crump, Catherine Day, Lara Dunston,
Conrad Van Dyk, Ron Emmons, Emer FitzGerald, Fay Franklin,
Silvia Gaillard, Victoria Heyworth-Dunne, Paul Hines, Leanne
Hogbin, Peter Holmshaw, Laura Jones, Nancy Jones, Priya
Kukadia, Esther Labi, Jason Little, James Marshall, Victor
Matthews, Bhavika Mathur, Sonal Modha, Catherine Palmi,
Helen Partington, Sudarat Ponpangpa, Rada Radojicic, Mani
Ramaswamy, Lee Redmond, Natalie Revie, Neil Ray, Natalie
Revie, Erin Richards, Sands Publishing Solutions, Julian Sheather,
Ellie Smith, Avantika Sukhia, Priyanka Thakur, David Tombesi-
Walton, Nikky Twyman, Ajay Verma, Richa Verma, Veronica
Wood, Sophie Wright.
Additional Research Parita Boonyoo, Debbie Guthrie Haer,
Sathorn Leelakachornjit, Elizabeth Lu, James Mahon, Pharadee
Narkkarphunchiwan, Warangkana Nibhatsukit, Larry O’Sullivan,
Mick Shippen, Pimalaporn Wongchinsri, Wanee
Tipchindachaikul, Somchai Worasart.
Proofreader Denise Heywood.
Index Helen Peters.
Special Assistance Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all the
regional branches of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT).
Particular thanks also to: the Ayutthaya Historical Studies
Centre (Thailand), Dr Peter Barrett (Medical Advisory Service for
Travellers Abroad, London), William Booth (Jim Thompson’s
House, Bangkok), Alberto Cassio (Photobank, Bangkok),
Crescent Press Agency (Chiang Mai), Gerald Cubitt, John
Dransfield (Kew Gardens Herbarium, London), Michael Freeman,
Helen Goldie (Durham University), Philip Harris (Bahn Thai
Restaurant, London), Kietisak Itchayanan (National Culture
Commission, Bangkok), Elizabeth Moore (London School of
Oriental and African Studies), Tony Moore (British Thai Boxing
Council), Phra Maha Pradit Panyatulo (Wat Buddhapadipa,
London), Paisarn Piammattawat, Rattika Rhienpanish (Mai Thai
Restaurant, London), Vidhisha Nayanthara Samarasekara, Philip
Stott (London School of Oriental and African Studies), Dusadee
Swangviboonpong (London School of Oriental and African
Studies), Thai Airways (London), William Warren (Bangkok), Terri
S Yamaka (TAT, London).
Photography Permissions Dorling Kindersley would like to
thank the following for their assistance and kind permission to
photograph at their establishments: Ancient City, Ayutthaya
Historical Park, Ban Chiang National Museum, Ban Phin (House
of Opium), Chakra Bongse House, Chan Kasem National
Museum, Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, Chiang Mai
National Museum, In Buri National Museum, Jim Thompson’s
Thai Silk Shop, Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park, Khon Kaen
National Museum, Khorat (Nakhon Ratchasima) National
Museum, Lampang National Museum, Lamphun National
Museum, Lop Buri National Museum, Muang Tam Historical
Park, Nakhon Pathom National Museum, Nakhon Si
Thammarat National Museum, Nan National Museum, Narai
Ratchaniwet Palace, National Gallery, National Museum
(Bangkok), Oriental Hotel, Pha Taem, Phimai National Museum,
Phnom Rung Historical Park, Prasart Museum, Ramkamhaeng
National Museum, Ratchaburi National Museum, Royal Barge
Museum, Sawankha Woranayok National Museum, Siriraj
Hospital, Si Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical Park, Songkhla
National Museum, Sukhothai Historical Park, Surin National
Museum, Ubon Ratchathani National Museum, U Thong
National Museum. Also all the other temples, museums,
hotels, restaurants, shops, galleries and sights too numerous
to thank individually.
Picture Credits
a = above; b = below/bottom; c = centre; f = far; l = left;
r = right; t = top.
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508  PHRASE BOOK

Phrase Book
Thai is a tonal language and regarded by most
linguists as head of a distinct language group,
though it incorporates many Sanskrit words
from ancient India, and some of modern English
ones, too. There are five tones: mid, high, low,
rising, and falling. The particular tone, or pitch,
at which each syllable is pronounced deter-
mines its meaning. For instance “mâi” (falling
tone) means “not,” but “maˇi” (rising tone) is “silk.”
The Thai script, meanwhile, is one of the most
elaborate in the world, running left to right and
using over 80 letters. In the third column of this
phrase book is a phonetic transliteration for
English speakers, including guidance for tones
in the form of accents. This differs from the
system used elsewhere in the guide, which
follows the Thai Royal Institute’s recommended
romanization of common names.

Guidelines for Pronunciation In an Emergency

When reading the phonetics, pronounce syllables Help!  chôo-ay dôo-ay!
as if they form English words. For instance: Fire!  fai mâi!
Where is the  taˇir-o née mee
a as in “ago” nearest hospital?  rohng pa-yah-
bahn yòo têe-nǎi?
e as in “hen”
i as in “thin” Call an ambulance!  rêe-uk rót pa-yah-
o as in “on”
 bahn hâi nòy!
u as in “gun” Call the police!  rêe-uk dtum ròo-ut
ah as in “rather” hâi nòy!
ai as in “Thai” Call a doctor!  rêe-uk mǒr hâi nòy!
air as in “pair”
ao as in “Mao Zedong”
ay as in “day” Communication Essentials
er as in “enter”
Yes.   r    châi or krúp/kâ
ew as in “few”
oh as in “go” No.  mâi châi or mâi
oo as in “boot” or  krúp/ mâi kâ
OO as in “book” May I have …?  ... kǒr …
oy as in “toy”
g as in “give”
Please can you …?  ... chôo-ay …

ng as in “sing” Thank you.  kap-kOOn (krúp/ka)

No, thank you.    mâi ao kòrp-kOOn
These sounds have no close equivalents in English: Excuse me/sorry.   kǒr-tôht (krúp/kâ)
eu can be likened to a sound of disgust – Never mind.  mâi bpen rai
the sound could be written as“errgh” Hello.   sa-wùt dee
bp a single sound between a “b” and a “p’ (krúp/kâ)
dt a single sound between a “d” and a “t” Goodbye.  lah gòrn ná

Note that when “p,”“t,” and “k” occur at the end of Thai words, Here.  têe-nêe

the sound is “swallowed.” Also note that many Thais use an There.  têe-nûn

“l” instead of an “r” sound. What?  a-rai?

Why?  tum-mai?
Where?  têe nǎi?
The Five Tones
How?  yung ngai?
Accents indicate the tone of each syllable.
no mark The mid tone is voiced at the
speaker’s normal, even pitch. Useful Phrases
áéíóú The high tone is pitched slightly How are you?  kOOn sa-bai dee
higher than the mid tone.  reu (krúp/kâ)?
àèìòù The low tone is pitched slightly Very well, thank   sa-bai dee (krúp/kâ)
lower than the mid tone. you – and you?  – láir-o kOOn lâ?
aˇ ě ıˇ oˇ uˇ The rising tone sounds like a questioning What is your name?  kOOn chêu a-rai
pitch, starting low and rising.  (krúp/kâ)?
âêîôû The falling tone sounds similar My name is …  (pǒm/dee-chún)
to an English speaker stressing a   ... chêu ….
one-syllable word for emphasis. Where is/are …? ...   …. yòo têe-nǎi?
How do I get to …? ...   …. bpai yung- ngai?
Male and Female Polite Forms
Do you speak  kOOn pôot pah-sǎh
In polite speech, Thai men add the particle “krúp” at the end of English?  ung-grìt bpen mái?
each sentence; women add “ká” at the end of questions and “kâ” at
the end of statements. These particles have been omitted from all
I understand.  kâo-jai
but the most essential polite terms in this phrase book, but they I don’t understand.  mâi kâo-jai
should be used as much as possible. The polite forms of the word “I” Could you speak r chôo-ay pôot cháh
are, for men, “poˇm” and, for women, “dee-chún.” slowly?  cháh nòy dâi mái?
 PHRASE BOOK  509

I can’t speak Thai.  pôot pah-sǎh tai Shopping

 mâi bpen How much does   nêe rah-kah tâo-rài?
I don’t know.   or   mâi sâhp or mâi ròo this cost?
I would like … o  ... dtôrng-gahn …
Useful Words Do you have …?   ...   mee … mái?
wife  pun-ra-yah I am just looking.  chom doo tâo-nún
husband  sǎh-mee Do you take credit  rub but cray-dit/
daughter(s)  lôok sǎo
cards/travelers’  chék dern tang
checks? mái?
son(s)  lôok chai
What time do you  bpèrt/bpìt gèe
woman/women  pôo-yı̌ng open/close? mohng?
man/men  pôo-chai Can you ship this o sòng khǒng nee
overseas?  bpai dtàhng bpra-
child/children  dèk tâyt dâi mái?
big  yài Does it come in oo mee sěe èun èek
small  lék other colors? mái?
hot o rórn black  sěe dum
cold  or  yen or nǎo blue  sěe núm ngern

good  dee green i sěe kěe-o

bad  mâi dee red  sěe dairng

enough o por white  sěe kǎo

well  sa-bai dee yellow o sěe lěu-ung

open  bpèrt cheap  tòok

closed  bpìt

expensive  pairng

left  sái

gold o torng

right  kwǎh

hill-tribe handicrafts  hùt-ta-gum
chao kǎo
straight ahead o yòo dtrong nâh ladies’ wear o sêu-pâh sa-dtree
between  ra-wàhng silver  ngern
on the corner of  dtrong hǒo-a Thai silk  pâh-mǎi tai
mOOm
bookstore o ráhn kǎi núng-sěu
near  glâi
department store  hâhng
far  glai
market  dta-làht
up  kêun
newsstand o ráhn kǎi núng-sěu
down  long pim
early  cháo pharmacy  ráhn kǎi yah
late  or  cháh or sǎi shoe shop o ráhn kǎi rorng táo
entrance  tahng kâo supermarket o sÓOp-bpêr-mah-gêt
exit oo tahng òrk tailor o ráhn dtùt sêu-a
toilet o hôrng náhm
free/no charge  free Sightseeing
travel agent  bor-ri-sùt num
Telephoning têe-o
Where is the nearest  tǎir-o née mee toh- tourist office  sǔm-núk ngahn
public telephone? o   ra-sùp yòo têe-nǎi? o gahn tôrng têe-o
Can I call abroad  ja toh bpai dtàhng tourist police o dtum-ròo-ut tôrng
from here?  bpra-tâyt jàhk têe têe-o
   nêe dâi mái? closed on public  bpìt wun yÒOt
I’d like to reverse o kǒr hâi gèp ngern holidays râht-cha-gahn
the charges.  bplai tahng beach   or   hàht or chai-hàht
Hello, this is …    hello (pǒm/dee- cave  thûm
speaking. ...   chún) … pôot
 (krúp/kâ) cliff  nâh pǎh
I would like to o  ... kǒr pôot gùp khun coral  hı̌n bpa-gah-rung
speak to … o  … nòy (krúp/kâ) elephant camp  kâi cháhng
May I leave a oo kǒr fàhk sùng a-rai festival oo ngahn òrk ráhn
message? o nòy dâi mái?
hill/mountain  kǎo
Could you speak up ro chôo-ay pôot
a little, please?  dung dung nòy hill-tribe village    mòo bâhn chao kǎo
dâi mái? historical park o ÒO-ta-yahn bpra
Hold on. o ror sùk krôo wùt sàht

I’ll call back later.  děe-o ja toh mah island (ko)  gòr
mài lake  ta-lay sàhp
local call  toh-ra-sùp pai nai temple (wat)  wút
o tórng tìn
museum  pí-pít-ta-pun
phone booth/kiosk  dtôo toh-ra-sùp
national park o ÒO-ta yahn hàirng
phone card  but toh-ra-sùp châht
510  PHRASE BOOK

old town  meu-ung gòw ticket  dtǒo-a

palace  wang ferry  reu-a kâhm fâhk

park/garden  sǒo-un

train  rót fai
railroad station  sa-tǎhn-nee
river  mâir náhm rót fai
ruins  boh-rahn sa-tǎhn moped  rót mor-dter-sai

Thai boxing  moo-ay tai bicycle  rót jùk-gra-yahn

taxi  táirk-sêe
Thai massage  nôo-ut
airport  sa-nǎhm bin
trekking  gahn dern tahng
táo Bargaining
waterfall  náhm dtòk How much is this?   nêe rah-kah tâo-rai?

zoo  sǒo-un sàt

How much to   ...   bpai … tâo-rài?
go to …?

Transportation That’s a little  pairng bpai nòy

expensive.
When does the   ...  rót fai bpai … òrk Could you lower  lót rah-kah nòy dâi
the price a bit? mái?
train for … leave?  meu-rài?
How about … baht? ...  … bàht dâi mái?
How long does it  chái way-lah
take to get to …?  ... nahn tâo-rài bpai
Will you go for … ...  … bàht bpai mái?
baht?
těung têe …?
I’ll settle for … baht. ...  … bàht gôr láir-o gun
A ticket to …   ...   kǒr dtǒo-a bpai …
please.  nòy (krúp/kâ) Staying in a Hotel
Do I have to  dtôrng bplèe-un rót Do you have a  mee hôrng wâhng
vacant room? mái?
change?  réu bplào?
double/twin room  hôrng kôo
I’d like to reserve a  kǒr jorng têe nûng
single room  hôrng dèe-o
seat, please.
air-conditioned  hôrng air
Which platform for   ...   rót fai bpai … yòo room
the … train?  chahn cha-lah nǎi? I have a  jorng hôrng wái
reservation. láir-o
What station is this?    têe nêe sa-tǎhn-nee
a-rai? I’d like a room for   (pǒm/dee-chún) ja
one night/three  púk yòo
Where is the bus  bpâi rót may yòo nights. keun nèung /
stop? têe-nǎi? sǎhm keun

Where is the bus  sa-tǎhn-nee rót What is the charge  kâh hôrng wun la
per night? tâo-rài?
station? may yòo têe-nǎi?
I don’t know yet  mâi sâhp wâh ja
Which buses go   ...  rót may sǎi nǎi how long I’ll stay.  yòo nahn tâo-rài
to …? bpai …? May I see the room  kǒr doo hôrng
first please? gòrn dâi mái?
What time does the   ... rót may bpai … òrk
bus for … leave?  gèe mohng? May I leave some  kǒr fàhk kǒrng wái
things in the  nai dtôo sáyf
Would you tell me   ...   těung … láir-o chôo- safe? dâi mái?
when we get  ay bòrk dôo-ay? Will you spray   chôo-ay chèet yah
to …? some mosquito  gun yOOng hâi
repellent, please? nòy dâi mâi?
Do you know…   ...   róo-jùk ta-noˇn … air conditioner  krêu-ung bprùp
Road? mái? ah-gàht
Is it far?  glai mái? bedroom  hôrng norn

Turn left.  lée-o sái

bill  bin
fan  pùt lom
Turn right.  lée-o kwǎh
hotel  rohng-rairm
Go straight.  ler-ee bpai èek key  gOOn-jair
Park over there.  jòrt têe-nôhn manager  pôo-jùt-gahn

Park right here.  jòrt dtrong née mosquito screen  mÓOng lôo-ut
shower  fùk boo-a
air-conditioned bus  rót bprùp ah-gàht
swimming pool  sà wâi náhm
arrivals  těung
toilet/bathroom  hôrng náhm
booking office  têe jorng dtǒo-a
Eating Out
bus station  sa-tǎhn-nee rót may
A table for two  kǒr dtó sǔm-rùp
departures  òrk please.  sǒrng kon

baggage room  têe fàhk kǒrng May I see the menu?  kǒr doo may-noo
nòy
ordinary bus  rót tum-ma-dah Do you have …?   ...   mee … mái?
tour bus  rót too-a I’d like …  kǒr …
 PHRASE BOOK  511

Not too spicy, ok?  mâi ao pèt mâhk na rambutan  ngór
Is it spicy?  pèt mái? restaurant  ráhn ah-hǎhn
I can eat Thai food.  tahn ah-hǎhn tai rice  kâo
bpen
rice noodles  gǒo-ay dtěe-o
May I have a glass  kǒr núm kǎirng
shrimp  gÔOng
of water, please.  bplào gâir-o nèung
soy sauce  ah-hǎhn wâhng
I didn’t order this.   nêe mâi dâi sùng
snack  núm see éw
 (krûp/kâ)
spoon  chórn
Waiter/waitress!    kOOn (krúp/kâ)
spring greens  pùk ka-náh
That was an    a-ròy mâhk
excellent meal. (krúp/kâ) squid  bplah-mèuk
The check, please.  kǒr bin nòy sticky rice  kâo-něe-o
 (krúp/kâ) stir-fried  pùt
ashtray    têe-kèe-a bOO-rèe sweet corn  kâo pôht
bamboo shoots  nòr mái tea  núm chah
banana  glôo-ay vegetables  pùk
beef   néu-a woo-a vinegar  núm sôm
beer  bee-a waiter  kon sèrp
boiled  dtôm waitress  kon sèrp yı̌ng
bottle  kòo-ut water  náhm
bowl  chahm Health
char-grilled  yâhng
I do not feel well.  róo-sèuk mâi sa-bai
chicken  gài
I have a pain in …  jèp têe …
chili  prík
It hurts here.  jèp dtrong née
chili paste  núm prík
It hurts all the time.  jèp dta-lòrt way-lah
chopsticks  dta-gèe-up
It hurts only now  jèp bpen bahng
coconut  ma-práo
and then.  krúng bahng krao
coffee  gah-fair
I have a  dtoo-a rórn bpen
crab  bpoo fever. kâi
crispy noodles   mèe gròrp I’m allergic to …    ... (pǒm/dee-chún)
custard apple  nóy-nàh páir …

deep fried  tôrt How many tablets  dtôrng gin yah gèe

drink(s)   krêu-ung dèum do I take?  mét dtòr krúng

dry noodles   gôo-ay dtěe-o accident  OO-bùt-dti-hàyt

hâirng acupuncture  fǔng kěm
duck  bpèt ambulance  rót pa-yah-bahn
durian  tÓO-ree-un aspirin  air-sa-bprin or yah-
egg  kài or  gâir-kâi
egg noodles  ba-mèe asthma  rôhk hèut
fish  bplah bite (by dog)  mǎh gùt
fish sauce  núm bplah bite (by insect)  ma-lairng gùt
fork  sôrm blood  lêu-ut
fruit  pǒn-la-mái burn  mâi
fruit juice  núm pǒn-la-mái cholera  a-hi-wah
ginger  kı̌ng cough  ai
glass  gâir-o dentist  tun-dta-pâirt
iced coffee  ga-fair yen or  or mǒr fun
iced water  núm kǎirng bplào diabetes  rôhk bao wǎhn
jackfruit  ka-nǑOn diarrhea  tórng sěe-a
mango  ma-môo-ung dizzy  wee-un hǒo-a
Mekong whisky  mâir-kǒhng doctor  mǒr
menu  may-noo dysentery  rôhk bìt
morning glory  pùk bÔOng earache  bpòo-ut hǒo
mushroom  hèt fever  kâi
noodle soup   gǒo-ay dtěe-o náhm filling  ÒOt fun
oven-cooked  òp hayfever  kâi jahm
papaya  ma-la-gor headache  bpòo-ut hǒo-a
pineapple  sùp-bpa-rót heart attack  hǒo-a jai wai
plate  jahn hepatitis  dtùp ùk-sàyp
pomelo  sôm oh hospital  rohng pa-yah-bahn
pork  néu-a mǒo injection  chèet yah
512  PHRASE BOOK

malaria  mah-lay-ree-a 2am  dtee sǒrng

medicine  yah 3am  dtee sǎhm

penicillin   yah pen-ní-seen-lin 4am  dtee sèe
prescription  bai sùng yah
5am  dtee hâh
prickly heat  pòt
6am  hòk mohng cháo
rabies  rôhk sÒO-nùk bâh
sore throat  jèp kor 7am  jèt mohng cháo

stomach ache  bpòo-ut tórng or  or mohng cháo

temperature  dtoo-ah rórn 8am  sŏrng mohng cháo
toothache  boo-ut fun
9am  sǎhm mohng cháo
traditional medicine  yah pǎirn boh-rahn
vomit  ah-jee-un
10am  sèe mohng cháo
11am  hâh mohng cháo
Numbers
noon  têe-ung wun
0  or  sǒon
1pm  bài mohng
1  or  nèung
2  or  sǒrng 2pm  bài sǒrng mohng

3  or  sǎhm 3pm  bài sǎhm mohng

4  or  sèe 4pm  bài sèe mohng
5  or  hâh
5pm  hâh mohng yen
6  or  hòk
6pm  hòk mohng yen
7  or  jèt
8  or  bpàirt 7pm  tÔOm nèung

9  or  gâo 8pm  sǒrng tÔOm

10  or  sìp 9pm  sǎhm tÔOm
11  or  sìp-èt
10pm  sèe tÔOm
12  or  sìp-sǒrng
13  or  sìp-sǎhm
11pm  hâh tÔOm

14  or  sìp-sèe half past one  bài mohng krêung

(pm)
15  or  sìp-hâh
16  or  sìp-hòk quarter past one  bài mohng sìp-hâh
17  or  sìp-jèt (pm) nah-tee

18  or  sìp-bpàirt quarter to two  èek sìp-hâh nah-tee

19  or  sìp-gâo (pm)  bài sǒrng mohng
20  or  yêe-sìp a day  neung wun
21  or  yêe-sìp-èt a weekend  sÒOt sùp-dah
22  or  yêe-sìp-sǒrng
a week  nèung ah-tìt
30  or  sǎhm-sìp
40  or  sèe-sìp
a month  nèung deu-un

50  or  hâh-sìp a year  nèung bpee

60  or  hòk-sìp Monday  wun jun
70  or  jèt-sìp Tuesday  wun ung-kahn
80  or  bpàirt-sìp
Wednesday  wun pÓOt
90  or  gâo-sìp
100  or  nèung róy
Thursday  wun pa-réu-hùt

101   or  róy-èt Friday  wun sÒOk

200  or  sǒrng róy Saturday  wun sǎo
1,000  or  nèung pun Sunday  wun ah-tít
1,001  or   nèung pun nèung
cool season  nâh nǎo
10,000  or  nèung mèun
100,000  or   nèung sǎirn hot season  nâh rórn
rainy season  nâh fǒn
Time and Seasons
vacation  wun yÒOt
one minute  nèung nah-tee
one hour  nèung chôo-a
public holiday  wun yÒOt bpra-
mohng jum-bpee
half an hour  krêung chôo-a Christmas  krít-sa-maht
mohng
quarter of an hour  sìp-hâh nah-tee
New Year  bpee mài

midnight  têe-ung keun Thai New Year  sǒng-grahn

1am  dtee nèung Chinese New Year  dtrÒOt jeen