INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

FOR TARSCO

c/o Chevron Tanks in Jose, Venezuela

As all seals provided by WGS are custom designed, the installer should follow the
specific contract drawings which have been provided for the installation; while these
“installation guidelines" are intended only to supplement the contract drawings.

PREPARATION

1. Load all seal materials onto the floating roof deck. Consideration should be made as to
how the materials will be loaded onto the deck.

Note: The seals are designed to be completely installed from on top of the deck without any
on site welding to the tank or to the seal and under certain circumstances has the potential to
be installed while the tank is still in service.

REVIEW OF EXISTING CONDITIONS

2. Check the annulus (the distance between the tank wall and the vertical rim plate) on 45
degree intervals and compare these to the average annulus, and the maximum annulus
shown on the field installation drawings. If any measurement exceeds the stated
maximum on the field installation drawings, then the roof must be moved to
bring the rim space at each location below the maximum

3. Check the material received against the Bill of Material/Ship List which is packed with
the seal kit. While it is not necessary to count each and every bolt, check the tags on
each bag to insure everything needed is available.

Note: Special emphasis is placed on making sure all kits are shipped with all required parts,
but in the event of a material shortage, immediate notification will help to avoid field
delays.

PRIMARY SEAL INSTALLATION

Note: The Makeup Shoe Plate (S03B) will be the top plate on a pallet containing the Shoe
Plates (SO3A). It should be isolated so as not to be mixed up with the Standard Shoe
Plates (S03A), as it is the last plate to be installed and will require field trim {See
Photo 1}.
 SUB ASSEMBLY OF HANGERS

4. Sub-assemble the Shoe Hanger assemblies per the field drawings, which include the
following items {See Photos 2 & 3}:

Rim Clip (S09A) 2 per Shoe

Rim Bracket (S09B) 2 per Shoe
Shoe Bracket (S10A) 2 per Shoe
Misc. hardware

Note: The Shoe Clip (S10B) is not installed in this sub assembly. Refer to Step 5
below.

INSTALLATION OF SHOES
5. Attach one Shoe Clip (S10B) and one Fabric Protector (S15A) in each of two (2)
locations on each Shoe Plate (SO3A); insuring that all bolted connections are tight.
This will include the Makeup Shoe Plate (SO3B) as described in Step 9 {See photo
4}.

Note: The Fabric Protector (S15A) can be installed on either bolt on the Shoe Clip (S10B).

6. Begin the installation of the first Shoe Plate approximately 6M from the gage pole.
Connect the hanger sub-assemblies to the shoes at the Shoe Clip (S10B) using the
Hanger Studs (AA) with nuts (AD), washers (AF), and lock washers (AG).
Assure that all bolting is tight {See Photo 5}.

Note: The Makeup Shoe Plate (S03B) will be the last plate installed. Refer to Step 9 below.

7. Lower the completed shoe assembly (SO3A, SO9A, SO9B, S10A, S10B & S15A) into
the annular space; and rotate the hanger sub-assemblies back from the shoe toward the
rim and slide each hanger along the rim to fit the nearest rim hole. Place the rim bolts
(AC) and washers (AF) through the Rim Clip (S09A) and the rim holes, fastening
loosely with another nut and washer. Once the rim connection for the first shoe has
been made, center the shoe on the two hangers as closely as possible {See Photo 6}.

Note: There is a certain amount of circumferential movement of the Hanger-to-Shoe

connection. It is important to start out with the hangers on the first shoe centered as
closely as possible to allow for final adjustment if the shoe to shoe lap needs
adjustment later.

8. Working clockwise, place the next completed shoe assembly into the annular space,
allowing for the 76mm (3”) lap, and install per Step 7 above {See Photo 7}.

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9. Continue installing completed shoe assemblies until all “standard” shoe assemblies
(SO3A plus hanger sub-assemblies) have been installed; leaving only the Makeup
Shoe Plate (SO3B).

10. Measure the distance, along the tank shell, from the end of the last shoe
assembly installed to the edge of the first shoe plate assembly. Add 76mm for
the laps on both ends (152mm total) and trim the makeup shoe to this size.
Once the makeup shoe has been trimmed to size, the Shoe Clips (S10B), Fabric
Protectors (S15A), and Hanger Sub-Assemblies (SO9A, SO9B, & S10A) are attached
and the shoe plate is then installed as described above.

Note: The Makeup Shoe (S03B) has holes pre-punched for the theoretical Shoe Clip
(S10B) location, but is shipped as a full length plate. The length will require field trim,
as described above. If the required length is such that the pre-punched holes will not
align, new holes must be field punched as necessary. Any pre-punched holes in the
final makeup shoe assembly not having a shoe clip (S10B) installed on them must be
plugged up with carriage bolts, nuts, and washers (W, AD, & AF) as they will be in the
vapor space.

INSTALLATION OF PUSHERS

11. Locate a Pusher Plates (S05A) within the annulus such that it is centered at each
shoe-to-shoe lap and slide to the nearest rim bolt holes allowing the Pusher Plate to
push against the top shoe. Place rim bolts and washers (AC & AF) through the
Pusher Plate and hole in the rim connection, and secure loosely with a nut and washers
(AD & AF) {See Photo 8}.

12. Locate one Pusher Plate (SO5A) at the center of each shoe plate and secure as above.

13. Lightly push the Fabric Protectors (S15A) down and across the rim space so they
contact the vertical rim plate.

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 INSTALLATION OF SEAL FABRIC

Note: The fabric requires field punching of holes to make the fabric/shoe and the fabric/rim
connection. Use fabric punch, paper punch, or sharp rounded object.

DO NOT CUT SLITS IN FABRIC

14. Unroll approximately 5M of seal fabric (B), and leaving 3M of fabric loose, punch one
hole 25mm from the edge that will attach to the shoe. The hole should be
approximately 6mm dia. This first hole is to align with the first hole on the left side of
the shoe plate (as you face it). Attach the fabric to the shoe using a carriage bolt (I)
and secure with a nut and washer (M & P) loosely, as they will later be removed.

15. In a clockwise direction, spread fabric smoothly along the length of one shoe, and
punch another hole in the fabric 25mm from the edge that is to align with the last hole
in the shoe plate. Secure loosely with carriage bolt, nut, and washer (I, M, & P) as
above.

16. Fold the fabric (B) as shown on the drawing, using approximately 65mm of total fabric
to make the completed fold.

17. Holding the ‘fabric fold’ securely, punch another hole in the fabric 25mm from the
edge that will align with the first hole in the second shoe plate, and secure it with the
carriage bolt, nut, and washer. You can now let go of the ‘fabric fold’, spread the
fabric smoothly along the length of the second shoe and punch a hole to align with the
last hole in the second shoe plate. Secure it as with the others, and continue around
the tank {See Photo 9}.

18. Continue installation of the fabric around tank as noted above until approximately 3M
from the starting point. Measure and cut the fabric to length, and make the field splice
using the Caulk (C), Fabric Washers (F70A), Machine Screws (J), and Nuts (M)
shown in the field drawings. Complete the attachment of the fabric to the shoe plates.
The seal fabric will now be draped down into the annulus {See Photo 10}.

Note: In the event of damage to the seal fabric, sufficient materials have been shipped to
make one additional mechanical field splice.

19. Beginning at one of the shoe-to-shoe lap joints, punch holes in the fabric to align with
the next two (2) holes in the shoe plate, as the first hole has the temporary bolting
already in place. Flatten the bunched fabric per the field drawing (Field Fabric Fold)
and install the Makeup Fabric Holddown (S12B) across the lap joint with the “long”
end capturing the fabric fold, using the bolts, nuts and washers (I, M, & P). Punch the
holes in the remaining fabric along the shoe plate to align with the holes in the shoe
plate. Install five (5) Standard Fabric Holddowns (S12A) with the same bolting,
remembering to remove and replace the bolting in the last hole that was used to secure

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 the fabric to the shoes. Tighten the bolts as you go along after the completion of each
shoe. Continue around the tank until all the fabric is attached to the shoe plates {See
Photo 11}.

Note: Each shoe will require five (5) Standard Fabric Holddowns (S12A) and one (1)
Makeup Fabric Holddown (S12B); except the Makeup Shoe (SO3B). Use (1) Makeup
Fabric Holddown (S12B), as many Standard Fabric Holddowns (S12A) as required
and one (1) trimmed Standard Fabric Holddown (S12A) as required to fit.

RIM CONNECTION DETAIL

20. Tighten all rim bolts securely; including rim bolts, nuts, and washers (AC, AD, & AF)
installed in the rim holes that do not have either a Hanger Assembly or Pusher Plate on
them. These bolts must be securely tightened as there will be a second nut installed on
this bolt.

21. Install gasket (F) on the rim connection surface (on the roof side of the rim) per the
field drawings, such that it covers all the rim bolts. Push the rim gasket down over all
rim bolts, and make sure that it is cleaned off the bolt threads before installing the
Fabric (B) over the bolts {See Photo 12}.

Note: Each hole in the fabric must be individually punched 25mm from the edge. Field
punching is required to keep the fabric straight radially. The rim has a smaller
diameter than the shoe, so some gentle gathering between rim bolts will be required to
keep the fabric in a "fan" position.

22. Pull the Fabric (B) to the rim maintaining a fanning effect. Punch holes for the rim
bolt and install the fabric over the bolts, pushing it against the gasket. After 6M of
the fabric is installed on the rim in its correct position, installation of the secondary
seal may begin.

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 SECONDARY SEAL INSTALLATION

PREPARATION

23. All compression plates must be gasketed prior to assembly. Apply the gasket (F) to
the back of the left side of the compression plates (SO1A & B). As the plates are
gasketed, they should be “scattered” around the edge of the roof to increase
productivity {See Photos 13 & 14}.
24. Install another layer of gasket (F) on top of the fabric as described in Step 21. The
compression plates (SO1A & B) will be put on top of this gasket {See Photo 15}.

INSTALLATION

25. Begin the secondary seal installation at a convenient location where the primary seal
installation has been completed. Compression plates (SO1A & B) are installed one at
a time in a clockwise manner, lapping over the previous plate. The layout is (2) SO1A
[standard compression plate} and (1) SO1B [foam port compression plate]; repeating
around the entire circumference. As the plates are installed, also loosely install a
clamp channel (S13A) with the 3/8” washer and 3/8” nut (AI & AJ) as required to
keep the secondary seal plates on the bolts.
26. As the compression plate (SO1A & B) installation is progressing, another crew
member can start to install bolting in the vertical joints using the machine screws, nuts,
and washers (K, M, & P) bolts. All vertical bolts EXCEPT the top hole can be
installed at this time. Two washers (P) are necessary, and they MUST be installed.
Check the field installation drawings for details of this bolting {See Photo 16}.
27. As the bolts are being installed, mark the location of the holes across the top of the
compression plates with a Magic Marker-type pen. Soapstone or crayon will not work,
and should not be used. These location markers will be necessary once the
Extrusion (A) is installed onto the compression plates.
28. Before the extrusion (A) is installed, the last plate must be installed. Installation of
the “LAST PLATE” is a special procedure. Because of the various sizes of tanks and
compression plates, the chances of having the last plate installed requiring a “full”
plate is very small. Generally, the space to be covered is less than the full width of a
plate. To take care of this situation, gasket the back of both sides of a
compression plate (SO1A), and install it aligning the joints on the left and letting it
overlap the first plate on the right side. Drill holes in the first plate, using the holes in
the last plate as templates. Enlarge the drilled holes by moving the drill horizontally to
make the new holes slotted.
29. The Extrusion (A) is now put in place starting in the middle of a compression plates
(SO1A or B) and proceeding clockwise, and the sections must be butted very tightly
together. Start the extrusion at an existing bolt hole in the compression plate.

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 (A) Extrusion (A) comes to the field in 50’ sections. The ends must be trimmed in
the field. Trim the left end “square” prior to installing. The right end will also
be trimmed “square”, and will probably have to be trimmed for length. Once
length is determined (see B below), it can be cut and “squared”.
(B) Place one entire section of rubber on the compression plates. Be sure the
extrusion is properly seated on the compression plate by hitting the extrusion
with a small hammer to force the extrusion completely down onto the
compression plate. If the extrusion finishes at a compression plate lap joint,
trim it so that it is at least 152mm away from the lap joint and the end will
align with an existing hole in the top of the compression plate. NEVER
start/stop the extrusion on a lap joint, as these joints must be able to move with
the annular variations.
(C) After seating one section of rubber, secure it in place by installing two or three
of the 3/16” bolts and nuts (K & M) in the extreme left end of the rubber.
Holes must be field-drilled in the rubber using the hole-markers as
guides. Holes should be drilled using an 8mm drill bit. These
bolts are temporary, so do not tighten at this time.
(D) At the extreme right end, do the same by drilling holes in the extrusion and
installing two or three bolts here also.
(E) Butt the second piece of trimmed extrusion (A) up to the first and drill a hole in
both the compression plate (SO1A) and extrusion (A) using the Extrusion
Splice Plate (F83A) as a guide. This Splice Plate is field-formed, and has holes
punched in it {See Photo 17}. The splice of the extrusion is never at the
compression plate laps. Seat the rubber, install the temporary bolting on the
left end, then do the same on the right end. Continue around the tank until all
extrusion is installed. The last section of extrusion will probably be less than a
full section. Trim it as required to fit the circumference. This last section
should never be less than 2M long; trim the section before it if necessary to
maintain this minimum length.
30. The installation of the rubber is completed by drilling the remaining holes in the
extrusion; installing the Anti-Hang-Ups (SO8A) and securing all with 3/16” hardware
(K, M, & P). BE SURE TO RE- SEAT THE RUBBER BEFORE DRILLING THESE
HOLES. Drill the holes in the extrusion using the lines made in Step 28 as a guide.
Take special care that the holes drilled where the plates are lapped are through both
compression plates (SO1A & B) and the Extrusion (A). These holes should be
“reamed” with the drill to insure the bolts will go through everything correctly. As
the bolting is installed install the Anti-Hang Ups (SO8A). The anti-hang ups are
‘centered’ on each compression plate (see Sheet 1), and are attached as shown on
Sheet 2 in both Seal Tip Details.
31. Before tightening the 3/16” bolting, install the Grounding Shunts (F82A), as shown on
the SEAL TIP DETAIL. The spacing is to be 3M (10’-0”) maximum as shown on
Sheet 1 {See Photo 18}.

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32. With the extrusion and grounding shunts installed, tighten all the 3/16” bolts in the
extrusion, and the bolts on the vertical joints. All of the 3/16” bolting in the secondary
seal should be “snug”. A way to gauge “snug” is enough tightening to compress the
gasket (F) between the compression plates (SO1A) by 1/16” (1.5mm). The extrusion
bolting should also have this degree of tightness.

33. Place the clamp channels (S13A) over all the rim bolts, securing with a nut and washer
(AD & AD).
34. The rim bolting may now be tightened. It is a good idea to make sure that the clamp
channels (S13A) are straight and level prior to tightening. This gives the installation a
good overall appearance. These bolts are to be very tight to secure the secondary seal.
[If the nuts (AD) installed securing the primary seal (see Step 19) were not tightened
sufficiently, they will back off and cause problems now.]
35. The installation is now complete, and should be inspected for completeness and
correctness, including “pulling back” the secondary seal to inspect the primary. Any
loose or missing bolts should be addressed, as with any other noticeable problems.

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