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9 Important Concepts
From the above, I hope you have learned:
1. The ocean is not well known. What we know is based on data collected
from only a little more than a century of oceanographic expeditions supplemented
with satellite data collected since 1978.
2. The basic description of the ocean is sufficient for describing the timeaveraged
mean circulation of the ocean, and recent work is beginning to
describe the variability.
3. Observations are essential for understanding the ocean. Few processes
have been predicted from theory before they were observed.
4. Oceanographers rely more and more on large data sets produced by others.
The sets have errors and limitations which you must understand before
using the them.
3. Heat released by rain and absorbed infrared radiation from the ocean are
the primary drivers for the atmospheric circulation.
4. The net heat flux from the oceans is largest in mid-latitudes and offshore
of Japan and New England.
5. Heat fluxes can be measured directly using fast response instruments on
low-flying aircraft, but this is not useful for estimating heat budgets of the
ocean.
6. Heat fluxes through large regions of the sea surface can be estimated from
bulk formula. Seasonal, regional, and global maps of fluxes are available
based on ship and satellite observations.
7. The most widely used data sets for studying heat fluxes are the Comprehensive
Ocean-Atmosphere Data Set and the reanalysis of meteorological
data by numerical weather prediction models.
8. The oceans transport about one-half of the heat needed to warm higher
latitudes, the atmosphere transports the other half.
9. Solar output is not constant, and the observed small variations in output
of heat and light from the sun seem to produce the changes in global
temperature observed over the past 400 years.
3. The Ekman layer at the sea surface has the following characteristics:
(a) Direction: 45◦to the right of the wind looking downwind in the
Northern Hemisphere.
(b) Surface Speed: 1–2.5% of wind speed depending on latitude.
(c) Depth: approximately 5–30 m depending on latitude and wind velocity.
4. Careful measurements of currents near the sea surface show that:
(a) Inertial oscillations are the largest component of the current in the
mixed layer.
(b) The flow is nearly independent of depth within the mixed layer for
periods near the inertial period. Thus the mixed layer moves like a
slab at the inertial period.
(c) An Ekman layer exists in the atmosphere just above the sea (and
land) surface.
(d) Surface drifters tend to drift parallel to lines of constant atmospheric
pressure at the sea surface. This is consistent with Ekman’s theory.
(e) The flow averaged over many inertial periods is almost exactly that
calculated from Ekman’s theory.
5. Transport is 90◦ to the right of the wind in the northern hemisphere.
6. Spatial variability of Ekman transport, due to spatial variability of winds
over distances of hundreds of kilometers and days, leads to convergence
and divergence of the transport.
(a) Winds blowing toward the equator along west coasts of continents
produces upwelling along the coast. This leads to cold, productive
waters within about 100 km of the shore.
(b) Upwelled water along west coasts of continents modifies the weather
along the west coasts.
10.10 Important Concepts
1. Pressure distribution is almost precisely the hydrostatic pressure obtained
by assuming the ocean is at rest. Pressure is therefore calculated very
accurately from measurements of temperature and conductivity as a function
of pressure using the equation of state of seawater. Hydrographic
data give the relative, internal pressure field of the ocean.
2. Flow in the ocean is in almost exact geostropic balance except for flow
in the upper and lower boundary layers. Corolis force almost exactly
balances the horizontal pressure gradient.
3. Satellite altimetric observations of the oceanic topography give the surface
geostrophic current. The calculation of topography requires an accurate
geoid, which is known with sufficient accuracy only over distances exceeding
a few thousand kilometers. If the geoid is not known, altimeters can
measure the change in topography as a function of time, which gives the
change in surface geostrophic currents.
4. Topex/Poseidon is the most accurate altimeter system, and it can measure
the topography or changes in topography with an accuracy of •}4.7 cm.
5. Hydrographic data are used to calculate the internal geostrophic currents
in the ocean relative to known currents at some level. The level can be
surface currents measured by altimetery or an assumed level of no motion
at depths below 1–2 m.
6. Flow in the ocean that is independent of depth is called barotropic flow,
flow that depends on depth is called baroclinic flow. Hydrographic data
give only the baroclinic flow.
7. Geostrophic flow cannot change with time, so the flow in the ocean is not
exactly geostrophic. The geostrophic method does not apply to flows at
the equator where the Coriolis force vanishes.
8. Slopes of constant density or temperature surfaces seen in a cross-section
of the ocean can be used to estimate the speed of flow through the section.
9. Measurements of the position of a parcel of water give the Lagrangean flow
in the ocean. The position can be determined using surface or subsurface
drifters, or chemical tracers such as tritium.
10. Measurements of the velocity of flow past a point gives the Eulearian flow
in the ocean. The velocity of the flow can be measured using moored
current meters or acoustic velocity profilers on ships, ctds or moorings.
11.5 Important Concepts
1. The theory for wind-driven, geostrophic currents was first outlined in a
series of papers by Sverdrup, Stommel, and Munk between 1947 and 1951.
2. They showed that realistic currents can be calculated only if the Coriolis
parameter varies with latitude.
3. Sverdrupsho wed that the curl of the wind stress is driven by a northward
mass transport, and that this can be used to calculate currents in the
ocean away from western boundary currents.
4. Stommel showed that western boundary currents are required for flow to
circulate around an ocean basin when the Coriolis parameter varies with
latitude.
5. Munk showed how to combine the two solutions to calculate the winddriven
geostrophic circulation in an ocean basin. In all cases, the current
is driven by the curl of the wind stress.
6. The observed circulation in the ocean is very turbulent. many years of
observations may need to be averaged together to obtain a stable mapof
the mean flow.
7. The Gulf Stream is a region of baroclinic instability in which turbulence
accelerates the stream. This creates a Gulf Stream recirculation. Transports
in the recirculation region are much larger than transports calculated
from the Sverdrup-Munk theory.
5. The theory for the deep circulation was worked out by Stommel and
Aarons in a series of papers published from 1958 to 1960. They showed
that vertical velocities are needed nearly everywhere in the ocean to maintain
the thermocline, and the vertical velocity drives the deep circulation.
6. The deep circulation is driven by vertical mixing, which is largest above
mid-ocean ridges, near seamounts, and in strong boundary currents.
7. The deep circulation is too weak to measure directly. It is inferred from
observations of water masses defined by their temperature and salinities
and from observation of tracers.
8. The Antarctic Circumpolar Current mixes deep water from all oceans and
redistributes it back to each ocean. The current is deep and slow with a
transport of 125 Sv.