Professional Documents
Culture Documents
English bulldog Zsa Zsa captures Analy grad Britton grabs praise for
crown at Sonoma-Marin Fair. A3 chilling turn on Netflix show. D1
higher
in SR
tells fire’s complex toll Exemption from state
environmental rules
sought in fire rebuild
By KEVIN McCALLUM
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
LANDSCAPE TRANSFORMED: Caitlin Cornwall, a biologist and research program manager with the Sonoma Ecology Center, takes in the view Thursday from a
ridgeline of Sugarloaf Ridge State Park at Hood Mountain, which was burned during the October fires, near Kenwood.
ANALYSIS
Despite blackened trees, flames have rejuvenated some plant growth Border crisis
By MARY CALLAHAN not backed
up by data
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
T
he scorched ridges rising
above Sonoma Valley still look
from the air like the October By MANNY FERNANDEZ
wildfires were recent, the flames’ AND LINDA QIU
path over the Mayacamas Moun- NEW YORK TIMES
tains visible in dark shadows of bare
earth and burned trees. BROWNSVILLE, Texas — The
Past the mayor of this Texas border city
wing of a has been dealing with a crisis.
SUNDAY, JUNE
plane at
24, 2018 • SECTION
H
Rebuild
NORTH BA
Y
2,500 feet,
beyond the
state of emergency. Drones filled
the skies and emergency vehicles
decimated raced down the streets. But none
neighbor- of it had anything to do with ille-
hoods of gal immigration.
Coffey Park It had to do with the weather.
and Foun- A severe thunderstorm
taingrove, A Western bluebird
perches on a
post in the Sleepy
charred wooden od of Santa Rosa.
Hollow neighborho
caused widespread flooding
Hood throughout the Rio Grande Val-
/ THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
JOHN BURGESS
Business E1 Crossword T7 Lotto A2 Obituaries B4 LEADING THE FARM BUREAU: Tawny Tesconi SANTA ROSA ©2018
Classified E5 Forum B11 Movies D6 Sonoma Life D1 takes the reins as county’s ag sector grapples High 78, Low 53 The Press
Democrat
Community B10 Golis B1 Nevius C1 Smith A3 with cannabis, other hot-button issues / E1 THE WEATHER, C8
A14 THE PRESS DEMOCRAT • SUNDAY, JUNE 24, 2018
LANDSCAPE
CONTINUED FROM A1
the wake of the disaster.
Much of that complicated pic-
ture takes shape from the small
window of a Cessna as it banks
over Warm Springs and a hilltop
stripped clean of buildings and
plant life alike. Vineyards and
valley streams unfold below.
In the upper elevations —
Hood Mountain and Sugarloaf
Ridge to the east and Trione-
Annadel State Park to the
west — and on ridge after ridge
across the Mayacamas, are gray,
blighted zones of black twigs
and charred forests, ground
burned too hot to support any
new plant life.
Swaths of this terrain burned
so hot that it altered soil chem-
istry and structure, making it
less absorbent during rains.
The average rainy season that
passed amounted to a forgiving
first test. Such areas remain
subject to destructive flooding
and debris flows, particularly in
the second and third year after
the fires, experts say.
Still, survival and regrowth is
evident through much of the fire
zone, in charred oak woodlands
and chaparral sprouting abun-
dant new life. Dazzling spring
wildflowers lured hikers to open
spaces for months. Burned coast
live oak trees sprouted new can-
opies and the torched branch-
es of chaparral — madrone,
manzanita, chamise and toyon
— sent forth bright wreaths of
green.
Most ecologists, though
almost hesitant to say it given
the human and material toll of
the fires, said the fires were in
many ways good for a landscape
adapted to fire over millennia.
The flames cleared old, dead
forest undergrowth and small,
unhealthy trees, allowing the
survivors to grow stronger and
boosting plant diversity.
Lynn Garric has witnessed the
transformation on the 40-acre
parcel she has called home for
34 years, nestled alongside upper
Mark West Creek off Alpine Road.
When the Tubbs fire raced
through her 40-acre property, it
destroyed her home and the cot-
tage where a close friend lived,
razed the bridge that linked her
to civilization, and blackened
every growing thing in sight.
And yet this spring, green
grass blanketed her homesite
beneath a forested hill. Daffodils
came up by the hundreds. Blos-
soms adorned the scorched fruit
trees that weren’t killed. Oaks
and bay trees around the place
have grown leafy new canopies.
“This was all black in Octo-
ber,” Garric, 69, marveled last
week as she gestured around her
land, now an oasis surrounded
by woods and forest still strug- KENT PORTER / THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
gling to survive. “All the leaves
DAMAGED BY FIRE: Caitlin Cornwall, a biologist and research program manager with the Sonoma Ecology Center, walks Thursday on a mountainside among the burned
fell off these trees.”
manzanita and oak trees. The October fires stirred the growth of light yellow whispering bells that lay dormant for decades at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park near Kenwood.
“The human element of these
fires was devastating,” said Mon- ma County and northern Marin people have disturbed the earth. erie Minton Quinto, executive
ica Delmartini, a stewardship County through the Sonoma Where the heat of fire pro- director of the Sonoma Resource
planner for the Sonoma County County Water Agency has been duced a kind of crust over the Conservation District. “We
Agricultural Preservation and underway since the fires. ground, preventing rainfall from could see erosion over the next
Open Space District and former “We’ve had no water quality infiltrating the soil, excessive couple of years. I’ve heard that
fire ecologist with the National issues in the water we’ve been runoff could raise stream levels pretty consistently.”
Park Service. “But from an eco- providing from the Russian during winter rains to new
logical standpoint, we’re seeing River,” principal engineer Don heights. Outlook for parks
a lot of positive effects.” Seymour said. But as it develops holes and Some of the most ravaged
Limited monitoring at four cracks over time, more rainfall terrain is in Sonoma County’s
Safeguarding burn zone creek sites before the rain start- will penetrate the ground, poten- regional and state parks, wilder-
In the immediate aftermath ed and after three subsequent tially leading to other hazards, ness oases that will take some
of the fires, the most urgent storms detected minimal con- like landslides or debris flows, time to recover. They include
environmental concern was centrations of some fire-related which occurs when a lava-like Shiloh Ridge, Sonoma Valley,
containment of toxic ash and de- pollutants downstream of Santa flow of soil, mud, rock and Hood Mountain regional parks,
bris from thousands of burned Rosa’s Coffey Park neighbor- water surges across the land and Sugarloaf Ridge and Tri-
homes throughout the burn hood, according to the regional with destructive and dangerous one-Annadel state parks. Most
zone, but particularly those near water quality control board. potential. of them saw the majority to all
creeks and drainages. Metal concentrations also Such incidents are more of their acreage burned over in
Chemicals, heavy metals, CHRISTOPHER CHUNG / THE PRESS DEMOCRAT were noted in the Mark West common in Southern California, October, though with varying
household toxins, electronics. DAMAGED TREE: An unusual growth Creek and Russian River water- where the geology and terrain intensity.
Each burned structure contained has covered live oak trees in the burn sheds — though within historic are different, experts say. Less is Volunteers have played a
an unknown mix of stuff that zone on Lynn Garric’s property on Alpine ranges, the water board said. known about the risk factors in key role working with limited
was incinerated in the flames Road near Santa Rosa. “We did see some increased Northern California. park staff to stabilize hillsides,
and left exposed to the elements hydrocarbon breakdown prod- But scientists are using the rebuild trails and bridges and
as the rainy season neared. engineer with the North Coast ucts, and we saw some increased North Bay fires to learn more. remove trees that could prove
The paths the fires took put at water board. metals,” Dougherty said. “Now Jonathan Perkins, a research hazardous.
risk key watersheds that provide Virginia Mahacek, natural we normally do see those geologist with the U.S. Geologi- But their recovery in most
both water sources and endan- resources and watershed recov- increased when we have storm cal Survey, is part of a team that cases will take decades, said Bert
gered species habitat. Most al- ery coordinator for the Sonoma events because there’s pollution also is monitoring soils in high- Whitaker, the county’s regional
ready are impaired by excessive County Office of Recovery and sources in our watershed that heat burn areas, in cooperation parks director, citing the loss
sediment and other factors. Resilience, said the timing of produce those.” with the county’s Water Agency of the pygmy Sargent’s cypress
About 8 percent of the land the fires for coho salmon and Seymour said there are on- and Open Space District, Pepper- forest atop Hood Mountain.
area in the Russian River wa- steelhead trout limited their going efforts to further analyze wood Preserve and State Parks. Still, park managers have re-
tershed was burned, exposing potential exposure to contami- water samples, in part to try He said the rapid vegetation opened all but small fragments
at least 617 streams to contam- nants from ash and debris and to understand how pollutants growth, especially in the past of trail to the public, offering a
ination, according to the North averted what might have been might be getting into the water two months, should help the soil landscape altered by the fires
Coast Regional Water Quality a large die-off. The blazes came in the first place and “what recover, but the threat of sheet- but largely recovering.
Control Board. before their typical migration was happening to those con- ing and excessive runoff could At Sugarloaf Ridge, “most of
Flames moved in some places and spawning season. taminants as they were moving persist for several more years. it seems to be coming back well,
right into the Sonoma Creek and “I don’t think it’s wrong to say through the system and poten- “You can get the bulk of the as it has evolved to do,” park
Mark West Creek corridors, as that we kind of dodged a bullet tially impacting our facilities.” recovery relatively quickly, but manager John Roney said. “But
well as their tributaries, incin- in that regard,” Mahacek said. “We’re looking at some very there’s still a lasting effect,” he we will see the effects for many
erating vegetation on the banks small changes and also analyz- said. years to come.”
and leaving blackened trees Water sources spared ing for things that a lot of people In the meantime, agencies
above. The way the rainy season aren’t looking at, in very small around the region already are Adapted to fire
Government, nonprofit, and unfolded helped, too. amounts,” Seymour said. working on updating plans for Sonoma County’s abundance
volunteer crews and landowners It came in gently and then But widely shared fears of storm patrol efforts this coming of open spaces and preserves
scrambled to deploy absorbent stalled for many weeks, provid- large-scale surface water con- winter. Like last year, they plan offer living laboratories to study
straw wattles and other ero- ing enough moisture to germi- tamination have been allayed. to have people on duty to mon- the fire effects, and the Glen
sion-control measures around nate grasses and other plants “Had our winter gone a little itor areas at risk of flooding, Oaks Ranch in Sonoma Valley is
burn sites, creek embankments, and extra time to install erosion differently, it could have been a flash floods or debris flows. one of those scientific hot spots.
storm drains and draws to controls. different story,” Lei said. The Water Agency has in- On a hillside overlooking the
prevent burned materials and “We almost couldn’t have got- With homesites now cleared stalled 22 permanent rain and onsite historic stone mansion,
contaminated runoff from enter- ten a better winter to follow the of fire debris, the threat of con- stream flow gauges around the a small stand of knobcone pine
ing waterways. fire,” said Patrick Lei, a botanist tamination is reduced, officials county in the wake of the fires remains the color and texture of
It was a largely successful ef- and watershed assessment tech- said. to serve as an early warning charcoal, the blackened trunks
fort, given the scale and general nician with the Sonoma County system, providing real-time data standing in stark relief against
chaos of the post-fire period. Water Agency. Slide risks remain on potential flooding to resi- the blue June sky.
“Lots of people pulled to- Mandatory testing of the But the risk of erosion re- dents and the National Weather But knobcone seedlings dot
gether,” said Mona Dougherty, drinking water supplied to more mains, particularly around roads, Service.
senior water resource control than 600,000 residents of Sono- culverts and other areas where “It’s not over yet,” said Val- TURN TO LANDSCAPE » PAGE A15
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT • SUNDAY, JUNE 24, 2018 A15
STORE
CLOSING
February 28, 2019
last day for
custom orders
September 30,
707 5th St Santa Rosa • 707-542-1855 • www.pedersensfurniture.com 2018
SUNDAY, JUNE 24, 2018 • SECTION H
T
he green grass of spring, bird- remained closed for months.
song and the burst of wildflowers. But fire has long played a natural role
They were the first signs of hope here. And the scars it left on our landscape
to emerge this year from a North more than eight months ago are slowly
Bay landscape transformed overnight by a healing. New seedlings have sprouted,
cauldron of fire in October. wildlife has returned and stewards have
The blazes churned across thousands fanned out to tend the recovery.
of acres of cherished public ground, burn- “People are critical to the health of the
ing all or parts of five regional and state land,” one ecologist says. The same holds
parks in Sonoma County. Ridgetop forests, true for our own health. It depends on the
popular trails and even verdant stream- places we inhabit, the resources we share
beds were left unrecognizable. Many spots and their comeback in the wake of the fires.
INSIDE
PARTICIPATING SPONSORS
H4 THE PRESS DEMOCRAT • SUNDAY, JUNE 24, 2018
Workers’ knocks
signal progress
Tall weeds grow around the playground at the park along Mocha Lane in Santa Rosa’s Coffey Park neighborhood. City officials estimate the cost of a new Coffey Park could reach roughly
$5 million, which doesn’t include the costs of hazardous material testing, demolition and redesign.
T
By ROBERT DIGITALE
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
“We want to keep as many existing trees as we can, if they will survive.”
JEN SANTOS, deputy director of Recreation and Parks for Santa Rosa about the refurbishment of the neighborhood’s park
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT • SUNDAY, JUNE 24, 2018 H5
A PG&E crew hooks up electricity to a house in Santa Rosa’s Coffey Park neighborhood. The utility plans to bury some of its lines in the area.
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H6 THE PRESS DEMOCRAT • SUNDAY, JUNE 24, 2018
Slowly rising
A single-family home is under construction Thursday along Leete Avenue, near Parker Hill Road, in the Hidden Valley neighborhood of Santa Rosa.
above obstacles
N
By KEVIN McCALLUM drinking water. open space that made the area so attractive
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT The city has enlisted two different also is in dire need of restoration.
construction firms to help replace water The Fountaingrove II neighborhood,
early half of the 3,100 service lines in the hillside neighborhood which was mostly completed in the 1990s, is
Santa Rosa homes on an accelerated timeline. responsible for managing about 214 acres of
Kansas-based Terracon will be replacing wildlands in the area.
reduced to ash in the service lines to 352 homes inside the water About 80 percent of those areas were
Tubbs fire were in the quality advisory area, where benzene is damaged by the fire, said Dennis Searles,
Fountaingrove neighborhood. believed to have been released from melting president of the nearly 600-parcel home-
plastic water pipes, contaminating the owners’ association, about 500 of which
But nine months after the water mains. were lost in the fire.
most devastating wildfire in That work will cost $2.3 million and is The association has been rethinking how
state history, just 16 percent of expected to be completed it replants in the wake of
by Aug. 8. the fires, keenly aware
the homes being rebuilt in the
“Probably
Sonoma-based Northern that, despite years of thin-
city are in the hillside enclave. Pacific Corp. will handle a ning efforts, the forested
smaller contract, replac- areas provided fuel for the
The rebuilding effort in the area,
while picking up, still lags behind
ing about 90 service lines
at properties outside the
our biggest firestorm as it ravaged the
hillside neighborhood.
other areas of the city.
Of the 266 homes under con-
advisory area where the
contamination is thought challenge is Douglas fir, in particu-
lar, are a species that got
Communities step
toward recovery
Foreman Shawn Wright signals for sand to be added to a trench on Oxford Court in Larkfield. PG&E crews have been busy replacing the underground electric systems in Mark West Estates
and Larkfield Estates neighborhoods that were leveled by the Tubbs fire in October. The utility plans to put more than 19,000 feet of power lines underground in the subdivisions.
L
By J.D. MORRIS
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
SONOMA VALLEY »
In Mayacamas country, residents band together to figure out what to do
about charred trees and ponder whether to rebuild nearly 50 lost homes
“Yeah, we lost some trees, but most of the trees are alive,” said Bob Neale, stewardship director of the Sonoma Land Trust. Neale sits with Allison Ash, board president for Mayacamas
A byproduct of
Volunteer Fire Department, surrounded by trees blackened by October’s Nuns fire near the top of Cavedale Road in the Mayacamas Mountains.
disaster: fortitude
H
By CHRISTIAN KALLEN Public Works. But he admits “tree removal
SONOMA INDEX-TRIBUNE is a hot-button issue,” and he finds himself
surrounded by inquisitors about county’s
igh in the Mayacamas, policy on taking down fire-damaged trees.
the charred, spindly “What happened to my view? I want my
view back,” said one of the neighborhood cap-
skeletons of knobcone tains, Lizbeth Wiggins. She shows pictures,
pine reach in futility before and after, of a stand of trees some 50
from the ash to the sky. The road yards away from her house. The difference is
striking and all too common in this group.
is steep, narrow and winding, ris- But the county is preparing to remove
ing 2,000 feet from the valley floor fire-damaged trees that pose a danger to
to the ridgeline that separates roads, both private and public. That means
first counting, evaluating and soon taking
Sonoma from Napa County. down the trees that might fall or drop a
It might be called inhospitable limb on a right-of-way, endangering lives or
property.
country, but 150 houses have been Hoevertsz’s department has counted
built up here since the homestead- 10,733 trees damaged by the fires along
ers of the late 19th century first ar- 90 miles of road. About 1,000 of them
sustained high or extreme damage, and the
rived. Nearly a third of the build- trees must be removed in the next year. The
ings were consumed during the rest are rated as moderately damaged and
October wildfires, which leveled will be monitored over the next five years. If
they don’t show signs of significant recov-
46 homes in the area and burned A banner showing signs of gratitude from ery, they too will be taken down.
many other guesthouses, garages, the community to the Mayacamas Volunteer These numbers are separate, he said, from
Fire Department was on display June 9 at the
wells and pumps. MVFD’s annual community picnic.
the trees that PG&E is trimming or remov-
ing to protect power lines.
At one, Lee Chadwick Rogers self. Now, he’s staying with his wife, Linda, The county will notify homeowners when
lost his life, fighting to defend his in a backyard cottage in Sonoma and mak- the tree crews will be coming onto their
Cavedale Road home from the ing plans to rebuild. “We used to take walks property, and what trees are being moni-
in the woods in the evenings. Now, we’re tored, Hoevertsz said. FEMA will take down
Nuns fire. 10 minutes away from a beer at Hopmonk.” the high-damage trees along public roads,
Allison Ash points out her house — “the He seems conflicted by the convenience. but the county will do the work on private
one with the arches,” she said, indicating a property. The right-of-way is determined
long ranch-style home on the far side of the as a 40-foot corridor along the road, 20 feet
canyon. It’s surrounded by the barren land- Neighborhood captains from the centerline, but if a large tree is
scape of the burn, and it seems a miracle the Though not a volunteer fireman, Stokes farther away and would threaten the right-
house survived. serves as the district’s “neighborhood of-way, it too shall be felled.
“We call that Alopecia Ridge,” she said, captain.” He meets with Supervisor Su- These numbers do not include trees still
comparing the appearance of the denuded san Gorin’s field representative, Allison farther away from roads, of which there are
hillside to the effects of a disease that causes Kubu-Jones, every couple weeks at the probably tens of thousands in the woodlands
baldness. Kenwood Depot, and often Gorin herself, of Sonoma and Napa counties. If they haven’t
There’s very little self-pity up here at the along with a dozen or so other neighborhood already disappeared in a heap of cinders and
Mayacamas Volunteer Fire District annu- captains in the First District from Riebli ash, they may be lightly or heavily burned. In
al meeting and community potluck, held Road to Glen Ellen. that case, it’s usually up to the property own-
earlier this month at the Ledson Mountain Gorin followed Supervisor James Gore’s er to decide how they deal with the damage.
Terraces property off Cavedale Road. Ash, lead on the neighborhood captains concept,
board president of the district, has lived in finding it a manageable way to stay in touch
the area full time since 2009, but many at the with the hundreds of people whose lives More than burned trees
potluck have been residents even longer. were turned upside-down and inside-out by The Sonoma Ecology Center released a
“Our lives are divided forever, before the fires. survey late last year that claimed
the fire, and after the fire,” she said to the “Neighborhood captain meetings are 28.5 percent of the Sonoma Valley had
assembled neighbors. “It’s clear we are intended as a place for captains to come burned, including significant percentages
stronger and more resilient than we ever together and talk directly with us and of Sugarloaf Ridge, Hood Mountain and
thought we could be.” Permit Sonoma about challenges they and Sonoma Valley Regional Park. And while
Community strength is one of the by- their neighbors are encountering,” said that’s inevitably a lot of trees, it’s also a lot
products of disaster that Sonoma residents Kubu-Jones. “These meetings also offer of brush and grasses. That, too, concerns
have discovered in their neighborhoods, in an opportunity to network and collaborate Mark Newhouser, the restoration ecologist
themselves. with other fire survivors and learn from one at the Sonoma Ecology Center.
“We know our neighbors up here better another. “ Ninety percent of birds are low-level
than we would if we lived in town, because Guest speakers are often brought in to nesters — like towhees, finches and juncos,
we rely on them,” said Randy Stokes, a talk about subjects of common concern. On Newhouser tells the group.
12-year resident. “A lot of us are up here June 7, the subject was trees. “And their habitat is being removed by fear
because we need a lot of room.” “I don’t know trees, I’m an engineer,” of fire,” he said, speaking of the landowners
Stokes lived in one of the 47 homes taken said Johannes Hoevertsz, director of the
by flames in October, a home he built him- county’s Department of Transportation and TURN TO SONOMA VALLEY » PAGE H9
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT • SUNDAY, JUNE 24, 2018 H9
SONOMA VALLEY
CONTINUED FROM H8
who find charred landscapes and plants just
too depressing to look at, who want to clear it
all and replant as quickly as possible.
Of the 30,327 acres of the Sonoma Val-
ley that burned, only a portion was from
high-intensity fire, hot enough to incinerate
everything in its path. That meant houses as
well as vegetation, markedly acres of knob-
cone pine and Douglas fir up on the ridges
of the Mayacamas, and into canyons along
Mark West Springs Road, Riebli Road and
over into Fountaingrove.
Stokes recalled trying to retrieve his
cast-iron cookware from the ruins of his
kitchen. “It had either melted, or vaporized.
Vaporized,” he repeated. “That happens at
temperatures of 2,300 degrees Fahrenheit.”
While the trees are gone, they are likely to
come back eventually. Fire opens the seroti-
nous cones of the Douglas fir and knobcone
pines, releasing their seeds. Already, seed- CHRISTIAN KALLEN / SONOMA INDEX-TRIBUNE
lings are found in the cemetery landscape.
“Yeah, we lost some trees, but most of the
Mayacamas Volunteer Fire District Chief Mike Jablonowski displays a medal awarded to the agency.
trees are alive,” said Bob Neale, stewardship renovation. It may be a total loss: “It’s on the Schwager, put an additional 60 acres into a
director of the Sonoma Land Trust. “Valley National Register of Historic Places,” said conservation easement contiguous with the
Oaks, live oaks, blue oaks — even some of the SLT’s Neale. “It’s a cultural resource — we Secret Pasture. “That lasts forever,” said Ash.
bigger firs. We expect a lot of those to live.” don’t have to repair it but feel a sense of obli- While the ability of the fire-adapted ecolo-
gation. It’s a property bequeathed to us.” gy of the Sonoma Valley to regenerate itself
Across Stuart Creek from the barn is is his positive message, even Neale found
Devastation from firestorm the main Glen Oaks House, built in 1868, himself taken aback by the high-intensity
The mixed-oak woodlands he describes was, restored in 1952, and added to the national blazes that swept across the Mayacamas.
like the chaparral of the Mayacamas, most historic register in 1994. John McCaull lives “Up at the top of Cavedale Road, it looks
heavily burned on the first night of the Oct. 8 in the Glen Oaks House as a caretaker while like a nuclear bomb went off,” he said. “It
fires as gale-force winds swept west across the he does his job as the SLT’s Land Acquisi- might take 20 years, it might take 30 years …
county, bringing with them a firestorm that tion Program Manager. but it will come back.”
incinerated more than it spared. Late in the evening of Oct. 8 McCaull That’s Mayacamas Volunteer Fire Depart-
“All bets are off in a firestorm,” said Ne- knew there were fires in Kenwood, but it ment territory.
whouser, “whether it’s trees, plants or our wasn’t until a smoky blast triggered motion There are usually 10 active, trained fire-
homes.” lights around 1 a.m. that he knew he was in fighters in the department; when the fires
But while he acknowledges that “it’s real trouble. struck, there were just eight. Five of them
horrible looking at a burned landscape; you “One quick look to the north revealed lost their homes even as they fought to save
want to plant again,” he and other ecologists a wall of treetop flames coming our way, their neighbors’ properties.
fear that unchecked tree felling could de- curling around the vineyard into the wild The volunteer fire department is now
stroy another third of the valley landscape. hillsides of the Mayacamas. My daughter, fully staffed; although former fire chief Will
If there’s one thing Newhouser wants to Grace, my partner Emily, our cat Felix, and I Horn has moved to Mendocino after losing
tell people living in a fire-damaged land- were out of there in 10 minutes,” he recalled. his house to the fire. Former assistant Mike
scape, he says it’s this: “I’m pleading with They could move back over two months lat- Jablonowski was made fire chief — a “bat-
people to stop, take a deep breath, and con- er, once the smoke damage had been cleaned tlefield promotion,” he calls it.
sider the impact of chain-sawing every tree and fire debris cleared. McCaull considers Community interest has surged in the fire
in their backyard out of fear.” himself lucky they were only displaced. department, despite the fact that 98 percent
The Sonoma Land Trust has three prop- The fires hit the other SLT properties in of the Mayacamas burned, according to Ash.
erties in the Sonoma Valley that were hit by the Sonoma Valley as well. Stuart Creek Some people still don’t have their power
fire — Stuart Creek Ranch and Glen Oaks Hill, a 14-acre property of oak woodland and back and many wells are compromised.
Ranch on either side of Highway 12 near native grasslands directly across Highway 12 There are now 11 firefighters in the de-
Cavedale Road, and a third property high up from the Glen Oaks Ranch, endured less partment. But Ash says it’s too soon to tell
Cavedale near the crest of the Mayacamas, destructive, cooler fires, with impacts that how many of the almost 50 residents who
called Secret Pasture. were “what a fire ecologist would expect — a lost their homes will rebuild.
Glen Oaks Ranch is adjacent to Bouverie loss of grasslands, but it’s recovering,” said “Several people I know personally won’t
Preserve, which was extensively burned Neale. be rebuilding,” she said. “They’re a little bit
in the first 24 hours of the fire. Glen Oaks, The third property, 340-acre Secret Pasture, older, and the time it would take to rebuild
too, was hit hard by the Nuns fire. An adobe adjacent to Bouverie, stretches up the Mayac- could be years and years. Often 40 or 50 per-
barn that could date back to the 1850s was amas. It’s a chaparral zone higher in the hills, cent of people don’t rebuild after a fire; we’ll
all but destroyed, especially unfortunate with manzanita and chamise, Douglas fir and have to wait five years out to see if that
as it had recently undergone an expensive knobcone pine. Ash and her husband, Marc statistic holds.”
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A revival at F
Ben Benson, cultural resources coordinator, examines a burned live oak tree on Three Tree Hill on June 15 at Pepperwood Preserve outside Santa Rosa.
By GUY KOVNER
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
Pepperwood
view is spectacular.
Massive Mount St. Helena looms to the east;
the Santa Rosa Plain stretches for miles to the
west, and the surrounding gentle hills are cloaked in
tall grass mostly turned summer gold, waving in an
afternoon breeze.
Green tree canopies seem to cover the more distant
forests.
To a casual observer, the sprawling 3,200-acre Pep-
perwood Preserve, a place dedicated to conservation
Stewards see renewal in preserve scorched by science and education, looks a lot like it did a year ago
before the worst wildfires in California history ignited
22 NE WLY D E S I G NE D PL A N S AVA IL A B LE
Following
surveys the wildflower bloom in April on the property in Glen Ellen.
Mountain bikers cross the threshold of the lake Ilsanjo Dam on June 18 in Trione-Annadel State Park, where a pair of walks go through fire-affected areas in the 5,500-acre open space.
A
FOR THE PRESS DEMOCRAT directly in the line of the Tubbs fire. More than
80 percent of the preserve’s 3,200 acres of wildland
t this point post-fire, the whispering bells burned, along with some structures. Known for
have begun to fade. They’re an under- the diversity of its habitat — prior to the fire more
stated wildflower, clusters of nodding than 750 native plant varieties and 150 species
blooms now a papery ivory. But they are of wildlife could be found in its woodlands and
everywhere. Rounding a bend on the Lower Bald meadows — the preserve’s land managers are now
Mountain Trail in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, as monitoring and documenting recovery of, among
oak woodland gives way to chaparral, the Sono- other things, the composition and succession of
ma Ecology Center’s Tony Passantino points out vegetation as the landscape heals, and the wildlife
bunches of them. that makes use of those different plants. The pre-
But just wait, he advises. serve is open to the public for volunteer workdays,
And sure enough, farther along, an entire slope classes, and public walks, and the staff has incor-
explodes with whispering bells. They are as dense porated fire ecology into its curriculum.
as the bleaching wild oat grass in the meadow For information, call 707-591-9310 or go to
California poppies join in the colorful cacophony of wild-
below, as dense as the coyote brush, chamise and pepperwoodpreserve.org.
flowers rising from the ashes of the burned landscape on
manzanita that burned here. There’s no wind on
this late spring morning but if there were, the
March 26 at Pepperwood Preserve near Santa Rosa. Sugarloaf Ridge State Park
flowers would be softly chiming. Bend close and Team Sugarloaf has created a Fire Recovery
sniff: They smell like Sweet Tarts, of all things. tunity to study the effect of that fire management Walk that traverses from an unburned meadow
Passantino is delighted. He’s never seen any- protocol in the field. The rest of the preserve took through a succession of torched ecosystems in-
thing like this, and neither has anyone else on a hard hit, including loss of much of the infra- cluding grassland, oak woodland, and chaparral.
Team Sugarloaf, the partnership that manages structure that supported its educational programs The 2-mile loop leads hikers past scorched-earth
the state park. You can find whispering bells in an as well as man-made improvements along the shadows of trees fallen before fire moved through,
ordinary season, but this kind of profusion hasn’t trails themselves, like bridges. But by the time fall where downed wood burned so hot it killed the
been seen in 50 years, since the last time these rolls around, Wirka said guided hikes for stu- seed bank in the understory and altered soil chem-
hills burned. The same kind of rare display is hap- dent groups and the public will be offered — and istry. Nature will take its course here, Passantino
pening down valley at the Bouverie Preserve in there’ll be more months of change to observe. says, as it also will in the canopies of the surviv-
Glen Ellen, where the normally elusive redwood For information, call 415-868-9244, ext. 306, or go ing oaks, where a powdery mildew has coated
lily can be found everywhere, says Jeanne Wirka, to egret.org/visit_bouverie. the leaves that budded soon after the blaze. Link
director of stewardship for Audubon Canyon the Lower Bald Mountain Trail with the paved
Ranch. Hood Mountain Regional Park Bald Mountain Trail and then the Stern Trail
And the oat grass? Passantino, Wirka, and Neill and Open Space Preserve to complete the recovery loop. Stretch it out by
Fogarty, supervising ranger at Trione-Annadel Located along the high ground of the Mayac- heading right and uphill on Bald Mountain Trail
State Park have all watched it take off. Octo- amas above Kenwood, about 60 percent of Hood and returning via the Vista and Meadow Trails for
ber’s wildfires supercharged the soils with “a Mountain’s 1,750 acres were torched by the Nuns a 4-mile option.
megadose of nutrients,” Wirka explains, spawn- fire. Drier conditions and extreme winds inten- For information, call 707-833-5712 or go to sugar-
ing a bumper crop that stands 8 feet high in plac- sified the firestorm in the southern reaches of loafpark.org.
es. As the grasses cure and fire season progresses the park, leaving hillsides of skeletal forest and
the potential fuel load is a little worrisome, but charred earth in its wake. Recovery will be slower Trione-Annadel State Park
it’s also important to observe and document the here, but still worth witnessing. To check it out, Ranger Fogarty recommends a pair of walks
abundance. begin hiking at the Pythian Road entrance, climb- through fire-affected areas in the 5,500-acre park.
Most of us, fire gods willing, will only have ing the Lower Johnson Ridge Trail to the Panora- The first is a 5.5 to 6-mile round-trip from the
one opportunity to witness the rebirth of nature ma Ranch Trail, then continuing on the Upper Channel Drive trailhead, traveling up the Warren
following wildfire. And it’s happening in parks all Johnson Ridge Trail to the summit. The total Richardson Trail (aka the Richardson fire road)
around us. Here are some places where the effects round-trip involves significant elevation change, to Lake Ilsanjo, and then making a clockwise
can be easily observed with a short walk. so wear good shoes and carry plenty of water. The loop around the lake. The route reaches into
Sugar-Hood Shuttle is another option, accommo- regions that “burned hot,” Fogarty says, where
Bouverie Preserve dating a point-to-point hike from Hood Mountain fire torched stands of madrone and Douglas fir.
When the Nuns fire swept through Bouverie, to Sugarloaf; details are on the Sugarloaf website. The second option makes a long loop linking the
part of a hub of public open spaces and preserves For information, call 707-539-8092 or go to parks. Lawndale and Schultz Trails outside of Kenwood
converging in Glen Ellen, it almost immediately sonomacounty.ca.gov/Visit/Hood-Mountain- and passes the Ledson Marsh, which got a “hair-
presented a lesson in fire ecology. Land managers Regional-Park-and-Preserve. cut” during the fire — where the reeds burned off,
had done a prescribed burn on a portion of the opening the water to view.
property, and the difference in how the fire be- Pepperwood Preserve For information, call 707-539-3911 or go to
haved on that parcel presented an instant oppor- Perched in the western Mayacamas between www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=480
H14 THE PRESS DEMOCRAT • SUNDAY, JUNE 24, 2018
rebounding, offer
and plants that spring up in the ash- tems, which have developed after
es, helping to ensure they repopulate millennia to live with fires.
unique glimpse
burned areas. California is home Tony Nelson, Stewardship Project
to more than 1,600 species of bees Manager with Sonoma Land Trust,
alone, for example, more, Heydon agreed that the wildlife may be less
at response to fires says, than can be found in all of the
eastern United States.
affected by the fires than by steadi-
ly encroaching human structures,
By STEPHEN NETT Birds are also mobile, and readi- which can reduce and disrupt their
T
FOR THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
ly return to feed on the insects. At habitat.
Pepperwood Preserve, which burned As wildlife cameras at Pepper-
o experts tracking the status extensively, more than 120 species of wood and elsewhere documented,
of wildlife after last year’s birds were recorded before the fire. animals are responsive to fires, and
fires, one thing stands out. Nicole Barden, Environmental Edu- many avoided or escaped ahead of
It appears the creatures cator, believes there’s been changes the flames.
living in the fire zones are recover- in population in the burn areas, But when their natural corridors
ing more rapidly than their human including an increased number of of movement are blocked, or they’re
neighbors. As the complex process lazuli buntings, which have stun- isolated in islands without exits,
of restoring people’s homes, lives ning bright blue feathers. They’re they aren’t able to flee. Highway 12,
and neighborhoods grinds slowly a “fire following” species, she says, Arnold Road, and Highway 101
forward, nature’s wild inhabitants one of the birds that are known to be where it crosses San Antonio Creek
are rebounding with surprising attracted to burned areas. are all obstacles blocking passage-
speed and efficiency. JOHN BURGESS / THE PRESS DEMOCRAT Another tiny migratory bird ways between habitat, Reynolds
Eight months after the fires, A house finch perches on a limb in the has come back for the spring, to explains. Sonoma Land Trust has
Cyndy Shafer, resource manager for Sleepy Hollow neighborhood of Santa Rosa. Barden’s relief, the tiny brown worked with other stakeholders for
the State Parks District that includes grasshopper sparrow. Quite rare in years to create and maintain wildlife
Sugarloaf and Trione-Annadel, actually fly toward fire. A bit bigger California, it has been recorded for underpasses at those locations, and
reports “We don’t notice a great than a rice grain, they’re able to several seasons at Pepperwood. The work with private property owners
difference in wildlife numbers.” detect smoke from burning trees name probably reflects its call, a to make improvements that would
While there were certainly casual- at considerable distances, in one thin high trill, like a cricket. Barden, allow safe passage and movement.
ties and dramatic changes in ground study, over 60 miles away. As they who lost her home in the fires at the “Week three or four after the fire,”
cover and habitat, overall, the resil- fly toward the smoky source, they preserve, has also seen an increase Nelson said, ”our camera under
ience of wildlife in post-fire Sonoma expose tiny structures under their in raptors, like sharp-shinneds and Highway 12 found animals were
County has been both encouraging forearms which, remarkably, can Cooper hawks. again using the passageway.” Years
and remarkable to observe. Ani- detect heat. This guides them to the They’re after the local species of of work have been invested in broad-
mal cams at several locations have fires. Firefighters often complain burrowing small mammals. They er efforts, with the goal of linking
recently spotted black bear, puma, about the swarming beetles, which weather fire by plugging surface habitat in the Bay Area, Marin
bobcats and other large mammals bite and climb under clothes. holes with dirt when they sense County, Sonoma and the Mayacam-
moving back. When the flames subside, females fire coming, and hunkering down as, up to Berryessa.
How wildlife dealt with the fire find logs that have recently burned, in their underground nests, where Nelson, who has had experience
here is a matter of intense interest. some still smoldering, to lay eggs. there’s oxygen and often stashes of managing controlled burns, sees the
For naturalists, park and wild space By being first to the newly burned food. They may remain there until landscape from a different perspec-
managers, the recent burns offer a wood, they have an advantage over new shoots and greens appear to eat, tive, like Shafer and others who
historically unique opportunity to other wood beetles, and their larva before venturing out. deal with wildlife on a daily basis.
learn what actually happens when eat wood that hasn’t had a chance to One important feature of the fires Disturbances happen, and nature is
flames sweep through local ecosys- entirely dry out. here, tied to wildlife recovery, is their dynamic. Many species have evolved
tems. Studies and observation proj- There are even wasps that come patchwork of intensity. Like a mosaic, to respond to, and even rely on those
ects are now underway in preserves to fires just to hunt the charcoal lightly burned pockets leave spaces changes. Frequent managed fires,
like Pepperwood and Bouverie, in beetles. for wildlife, seeds and eggs to survive, a practice of native people here for
regional and state parks, and pro- Although they’re usually over- which then spread into the surround- thousands of years, may again be an
tected spaces such as the Glen Oaks, looked in favor of the big animals, ing regions, speeding recovery. important future practice, both to
Sears Point and Sonoma Mountain insects are the most populous and “On the whole,” Shafer notes, ensure the health of the natural en-
properties managed by Sonoma diverse wildlife in our entire post- “while there have been tragic vironment, and protect against out
Land Trust, which all suffered fire ecosystem. Steve Heydon, senior human costs and losses, most fires of control and vastly more destruc-
during the fires. scientist at the Bohart Museum of don’t have a lasting serious effect in tive raging wildfires.
The evidence so far shows na- Entomology at UC Davis, points out wildlands here. In fact, they tend to “Fire is not tragic for wildlife,”
ture’s inhabitants have interesting they’re also key to other species’ enrich the diversity of plants and Nelson says. “Fire is part of the
and diverse strategies for coping, recovery. Insects are the invisible animals. They remove old brush natural regime.”
and even prospering, when fires foundation of the food chain, sus- and recycle nutrients, open areas to
come. taining many types of birds, small sunlight and create space for new Stephen Nett is a Bodega Bay-based
Not every creature flees the smoke mammals, amphibians, reptiles and plants.” Certified California Naturalist,
and flame, for example. Certain other creatures, which in turn keep This turnover allows a succession writer and speaker. Contact him at
insects, like the charcoal beetle, the bigger animals fed. of species, which renews old growth snett@californiasparks.com.
An effective strategy
A controlled burn conducted by Cal Fire consumes brush on the face of the Coyote Valley dam Thursday at Lake Mendocino in Ukiah. The brush is burned early to cut the fire risk and for train-
I
FOR THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
O
FOR THE PRESS DEMOCRAT a natural aspect of most They are highly flamma- Many shrubs and trees ■ Penstemons
California ecosystems. ble (often called “flashy”), of this ecosystem either
bium)
ur homes and Homeowners can help and allow fires to spread sprout from the base, or
businesses are protect their properties by rapidly. They are danger- their seeds are stimu-
TREES AND LARGER SHRUB OPTIONS
set within and planting landscapes with ous when they invade or lated to grow by fire and ■ Dogwoods, Japanese or other maples, flowering crab apple,
adjacent to wild less flammable plants and are adjacent to shrub or the resulting bare soil. pomegranate, citrus, crape myrtle or eastern redbud.
landscapes in Sonoma trees and maintaining chaparral plant communi- Fires rejuvenate these
County. In our leisure them in such a way that ties, as the grasses act as areas. In conifer forests, SOME SHRUB OPTIONS
time, we walk, bike or will reduce the chance ladders into the flammable fires were more frequent, ■ Potentilla fruticosa ■ Shade shrubs
drive through their of fire spreading. Here is shrub overstory. These and usually patchy, ■ Coprosma repens ■ Daphne
majestic scenes. People some background and tips grasses also dry much ear- and lighter in intensity,
travel from all over the to follow to do your part to lier in the season than oth- mostly consuming the
■ Viburnum tinus “Spring ■ Sarcococca
world to enjoy the bucolic help reduce fire risk. er vegetation, extending understory and young
Bouquet” ■ Osmanthus
and rugged appeal of the The golden hills that the seasonal fire danger. trees with branches that ■ Mockorange (Philadelphus ■ California currant
Wine Country. are a ubiquitous feature Chaparral, the most reach the ground. lewisii), or Korean Lilac
(Syringa meyeri “Palibin”) or ■ Oregon grape (Mahonia)
Yet our intense en- of California’s identity common plant community With the advent of effec-
gagement with these are mostly composed of in the state, is composed tive fire suppression, for- Sasanqua camellia. ■ Fuchsia
environments has created non-native grasses and of densely growing shrubs ests are widely considered ■ Perennials ■ Dogwood
a wide urban-wildland forbs. We have both pur- such as scrub oak, manza- more dense and even-aged ■ Camellia
■ Creeping thyme
interface that is suscepti- posely and inadvertently nita, chamise and cean- than they were naturally.
ble to catastrophic fire, an converted our natural othus that form a closed As a result, fires are now ■ Sunrose (Helianthemum) ■ Japanese maple
altogether more destruc- understory of perennial stand over time. It is a often severe and enter and ■ Evening primrose (Oeno- ■ Low-growing shade
tive and deadly force than grasses and annual wild- fire-dependent ecosystem, spread in tree crowns. thera missouriensis) ■ Bergenia cordifolia
In oak woodlands, trees ■ Dianthus
and shrubs both grow
■ Coralbells (Heuchera)
NEED PAINT?
singly and in clumps. ■ Coreopsis ■ Columbine
Older hardwood trees ■ Catmint ■ Perennial geraniums
such as oaks, madrone ■ Ornamental oreganos Orig- ■ Pacific Coast hybrid iris
and California bay often
GO TO
anum “Marshall’s Memory,”
have no lower branches as ■ Ferns
“Santa Cruz,” “Bristol Cross”
a result of age. They are ■ Liriope
usually set in wide expans-
■ Trailing verbena
■ Ceratostigma plumbagi-
O ff SERVING SONOMA COUNTY where the vegetation has our plants well, keeping tolerant garden, consider
% in
15BenjaEmxterior SINCE 1906
been designed or modified
and maintained to reduce
flammability, and where
trees, vines, shrubs and
ground covers free of dead
leaves and stems and thin-
using Chinese pistachio
or California buckeye
as specimen trees. For
firefighters can defend a ning dense vegetation, will shrubs, choose California
ore ts st
On Santa Rosa Ave.
Mo roduc uly 31 structure. all make your landscape redbud, serviceberry
P u J nly) 1/2 mile South of Hearn Ave. In an urban or suburban less vulnerable to fire (amelanchier), or crape
w thr & Fives o setting, where houses are destruction. myrtle, widely spaced.
o
N (Gallo n s 707-545-1711 • www.hawleyspaint.com closely spaced, and lot siz- Combine widely spaced They are long-lived, deep
Mon-Fri 8-5:30 • Sat 8:30-5 es are small, houses them- trees and shrubs with non- rooted, floriferous, and
selves form the majority contiguous low-growing wildlife friendly.
cots.org
ANNOUNCING
COTS SERVICE LOCATION IN SANTA ROSA
GRAND OPENING
ON JULY 18, 2018
5:30pm – 8:00pm
575 West College Avenue, Santa Rosa
RSVP at cots.org or 707.765.6530 x 128
• Food from Ann B’s Kitchen
• Wines from Jackson Family Wines
• Lagunitas Beer
COTS is opening a new Santa Rosa office to address the needs of homeless
individuals and families who have been impacted by the fires.