Professional Documents
Culture Documents
HAWAII
BY SEA
CA N A DA’ S
UNTOUCHED
WILDERNESS
THE ISLAND OF
O R A N G U TA N S
GOING WILD
IN PERU
Snorkeling nearMala Wharf, in Maui.
FAST AS
THE LEXUS HYBRID LINE
Climb behind the wheel. Strap yourself in. Bury the pedal.
Feel the roar. Then tighten your grip as the LC 500h’s
lightning-fast Multistage Hybrid Drive system propels you
from zero to 60 in a mere 4.7 seconds.1,2 Lexus Hybrids.
There’s more to h than just hybrid.
LC 500h
Options shown. 1. Ratings achieved using the required premium unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 91 or higher. If premium fuel is not used,
performance will decrease. 2. Performance figures are for comparison only and were obtained with prototype vehicles by professional drivers using
special safety equipment and procedures. Do not attempt. 3. 2018 Lexus Hybrid base models compared to 2018 Lexus gas base models. ©2018 Lexus
,QVSLUHGE\FKHIV
&UHDWHGIRU\RX
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J U LY 2 0 1 8
p. 74
Torngat Mountains
National Park, Canada
p. 13 p. 30
Yellowstone The Burren,
National Park p. 13 p. 20
Richmond, Virginia Ireland Durminskoye
Reserve, Russia
p. 52 p. 13 p. 42
p. 52
Coastal Maine Provence, France Republic of Georgia
Western
p. 52 Colorado
California p. 42 p. 13
p. 13 p. 88
Washington, D.C. Kii Peninsula, Japan
p. 32 Mallorca, Spain Jordan
Missouri Ozarks p. 20
p. 46 Musandam, Oman
p. 96
Hawaii Cuba
p. 108
p. 20 Lalibela, Ethiopia
Puerto Rico p. 27
Masai Mara National p. 82
p. 27, 67 Reserve, Kenya Sumatra, Indonesia
p. 20 Serengeti National p. 67
p. 67 Tambopata National Park, Tanzania Moyo Island, Indonesia
p. 20
Sacred Valley, Peru Reserve, Peru
Tsavo National Park, Kenya
p. 67
Arnhem Land, Australia
p. 27 p. 27
Okavango Delta, Gonarezhou National p. 39
Botswana Park, Zimbabwe Uluru, Australia
4 travelandleisure.com
LILY KWONG
Landscape Designer
Royal Laurel | Seat 5K
JFK > TPE
Plan an Excellent
Adventure
While this issue
focuses on adventure,
we know that, for many
travelers, adventuring
is a year-round pursuit.
At travelandleisure.com,
you’ll find active travel
It’s hard to think of a advice and off-the-
more scenic place to beaten-path trip
tee up than the Lodge ideas: coverage of the
at Kauri Cliffs, on New world’s best wildlife
Zealand’s spectacular destinations, new
North Island. properties at the
ends of the earth,
gear recommendations
for serious outdoor
At Travel + Leisure, we want every American to join us in a commitment to use up all our
vacation days in 2018. That’s why we created Operation Vacation, a program of exclusive travel
deals designed to inspire your next trip. Whatever experience you’re looking for, you’ll find
dozens of terrific discounts on flights, hotels, cruises, and more at travelandleisure.com/ Daily Travel Fuel
operationvacation. Here are two of this month’s highlights. On page 13, you’ll find
Reasons to Travel Now,
our monthly roundup of
The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs, New Zealand Palazzo Dama, Rome trip-worthy news and
events curated by our
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editors. But there are so
Golf is the main attraction at this luxury This 19th-century villa feels less like a many more reasons to
lodge on the North Island, but it’s far from hotel and more like the private residence travel than we can fit
the only draw. Located on 6,000 acres of of a Roman aristocrat. The airy interiors onto those pages. Check
farmland overlooking the Pacific, Kauri are decorated with crystal chandeliers out our new daily digital
Cliffs puts the region’s scenery on full and Andy Warhol lithographs, while the version of Reasons to
display, with 22 ocean-facing cottages, an back garden features a small swimming Travel Now for exciting
infinity pool, and a full-service spa that’s pool—a rarity in central Rome. Grab an hotel openings, world-
widely regarded as one of the best in New aperitivo in the Pisco bar before dining on class cultural festivals,
Zealand. The Details: 33 percent off three Peruvian-inspired fare at the Pacifico new destination
nights or more through September 30. restaurant. The Details: 30 percent off a restaurants, and other
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per night; to book, e-mail reservations@ and daily breakfast. Doubles from $476; around. tandl.me/
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6 travelandleisure.com
Scrub Island, February 2018.
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EDITOR’S NOTE
My husband, Charles,
M
jumping for joy upon
reaching the Salinas
Grandes salt flats in
northern Argentina.
E ALL TRAVEL FOR DIFFERENT REASONS. While putting together this issue,
I was struck by the rationale expressed by writer John Wray in his
story about visiting the Peruvian Amazon (page 20) to try out “citizen
science,” in which travelers assist researchers in the field. For John,
travel is about being “knocked back to the person I was at eight years
old, when I hadn’t a doubt that the world beyond our fly-over town was as action-packed
and strange as adventure novels made it seem.”
What a wonderful sentiment this is, and it’s one that I share. When people ask me why
I love safaris so much, how I can do 10 days straight of getting up at 5 a.m. for bush drives
without tiring of it all, I answer that safaris make me feel like a kid again—wide-eyed, eager
to learn, and open to the possibility that something exciting or strange or even scary could
occur. I love being given the chance once again to ask a million questions, to take in new facts,
to make sense of the unfamiliar. It’s about reconnecting with a feeling that is innate in
children but that adults, too, often lose sight of: wonder.
My husband and I were recently in Argentina, tooling around the country’s northern
reaches, and one day, after a stop at the touristy but charming town of Purmamarca, set at
the base of an extraordinary formation of multicolored rocks, we realized we were not far
from the Salinas Grandes salt flats, which were said to be pretty great. Although it wasn’t on
our agenda, we decided to give it a go. Looking back, I expect if we’d known when we started
out that the trip would require us to drive right over the Andes—reaching almost 15,000 feet
via a seemingly never-ending series of sinuous switchbacks—we might not have gone.
But if we hadn’t gone, we would never have had that euphoric
feeling of driving over the top of the world, we would never have
stopped to take those photos of llamas crossing the road at the
summit, and we would never have driven into that totally empty
blinding sea of white. It was an adventure. A contained adventure,
perhaps, but one that was exciting and fun and beautiful. And
we’ll always remember it.
There are many different kinds of adventures in this issue,
but I think what they all have in common is an unexpectedness
F ROM TOP : N ATH A N LU MP ; B RI A N D O BE N
@nathanlump
nathan@travelandleisure.com
10 travelandleisure.com
IS IS
TH
Alabama
From the McWane Science Center in
Birmingham to the U.S. Space & Rocket Center
in Huntsville, you can take it all in.
Alabama.Travel/Discovery
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the draw of exploration
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Macaws in the Tambopata
THE E XPERIENCE National Reserve, an area of
protected rain forest in Peru.
on a visit organized by Rainforest Expeditions, a tour tropical wood floors and décor by
operator that owns and manages lodges where travelers indigenous artists, visitors come for
can experience the biodiversity of the region while assisting the wildlife, and the management
20 travelandleisure.com
Tailor-Made for Sipping by the Sea
Includes
snack recipes to
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cravings!
BEACH COCKTAILS
©2018 Time Inc. Books, a division of Meredith Corporation. All rights reserved.
THE E XPERIENCE
22 travelandleisure.com
THE SPONTANEIT Y YOU CR AVE.
24 travelandleisure.com
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The lounge area of
Uncharted Mobile FIRST LOOK
Expeditions’ camp
in Botswana.
A Camp of
One’s Own
Until recently, mobile safaris—widely seen as the best way to get
close to Africa’s wildlife—were available only for large, private bookings.
Now anyone can get in on the action. By Jane Broughton
F IV E MIN UT ES after we set out from Uncharted Mobile safaris are typically offered on an
Mobile Expeditions’ mobile camp in the exclusive basis, meaning they have usually
Okavango Delta, Botswana, someone in our been the preserve of families or large groups.
vehicle yelled “Lion!” Everybody spun in their With the introduction of set-date departures,
seats to see a lioness in pursuit of a baby Uncharted Mobile Expeditions allows guests to
warthog hurtling toward us. Zigzagging book a single tent, rather than the entire camp—
frantically, the piglet was soon pinned to the opening up the experience to a wider audience
ground by a giant paw. There was a collective and making it considerably more affordable.
gasp as we steeled ourselves for the inevitable. I had begun by flying in a Cessna from
But seconds later, 150 pounds of protective Maun, northern Botswana’s hub, to the farthest-
mother bush pig hit the lioness at full speed, flung airstrip in the Okavango Delta. My
throwing up a cloud of dust. Released by the destination was NG12, a remote government-
impact, the squealing piglet sped across the dirt owned concession that, until recently, was
road and away to freedom. known only to safari insiders. In the Okavango,
Such thrilling encounters seem to happen as in Africa’s other iconic wild places, space is
with remarkable frequency on mobile safaris— the holy grail—the definition of luxury. There
a wildlife trip on which guests stay at a movable are no permanent lodges in NG12, despite the
camp. That’s because when it comes to the fact that, at 200,000 acres, it is more than 50,000
African wilderness, sleeping in a tent (whether acres larger than Vumbura to the south, where
it be a basic fly camp or a slightly more complex, Wilderness Safaris operates two luxury camps.
comfortable setup with flushable toilets) is the In four days of exploring, we saw only one other
best way to get close to the action. Deeply vehicle. The surrounding landscapes ranged
immersive, a mobile operation puts you in from open plains dotted with elephants, buffalo,
N ATU R A L SE LECT I ON
exactly the right place at the right time, which zebras, and giraffes to lagoons where hippos
is why it’s currently a big trend in safaris. If the jostled for territory and crocodiles cruised
animals travel or the weather changes, simple silently in between.
camps can be packed up after breakfast and set This part of the delta can be reached only by
up in a new location in time for dinner. a patchy network of dirt tracks and rudimentary
travelandleisure.com 27
FIRST LOOK
a four-year-old as he was at explaining the subtle up mobile camps in the path movements of the animals.
differences between a coppery-tailed coucal of vast herds of wildebeests Safaris fill up via word of mouth,
migrating through the Serengeti and as many as 65 percent of
and a Burchell’s coucal to me. Plain. The tents, each of which bookings come from repeat
On returning to camp after a game drive, has an en suite bathroom, guests. royalafrican.com; from
we found a table laid under the stars. Kerosene are moved around the park $1,500 per person, all inclusive.
28 travelandleisure.com
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in County Clare, Ireland, favorite fragrance was a bright, briny mixture of citrus
ON A GRAY DAY I drove down a narrow road
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WA N D E R
Missouri in
Hotel Bothwell, in Sedalia; riding near
Rocheport on the 240-mile Katy Trail; South
Ohio Avenue, in Sedalia; barrels at Augusta
Winery, in Augusta; a cyclist takes a break
Until 1986, the trains of the Missouri-Kansas-Texas Owner Brett Dufur swung by with a six-pack.
Railroad (MKT, nicknamed the “Katy”) ran along this route. Because the Katy runs along a railway, he said,
A few years later, the rails were pulled up and the land “there are these quirky towns every few miles.
was repurposed, becoming one of the first major rail-trail You can push yourself, but you can always get
conversions in the U.S. Today there are more than 23,400 a cold beer just up ahead.”
miles of these paths across the country. At 240 miles, the Cold beer sounded great, so the next day we
Katy Trail is the longest—and it’s still growing. When the detoured to Columbia, my old college town. Flat
Rock Island Trail to the south is completed, it will link Branch Pub & Brewing (flatbranch.com) is a place
up with the Katy to form a 450-mile loop through Missouri. I used to visit often, but I’d never ordered the
Last spring, I rode the Katy with my pal Zach. He and Katy Trail Pale Ale. It was sweet and refreshing.
I grew up about 50 miles from the trail’s midpoint, but back Down the road in Hermann, a historically
then we’d been too preoccupied by adolescence for long, German town, we found the best meal of the trip.
multiday bike rides. Spurred by the completion of the first At Hermann Wurst Haus (hermannwursthaus.com;
48-mile spur of the Rock Island Trail, we decided to change entrées $9–$14), we sampled headcheese and a
that. On an overcast Sunday, we set out from the outskirts liver sausage called braunschweiger, then ordered
of Kansas City like kids on summer break, stopping to snap wursts with tight skins. We washed it all down
photos of grain silos towering over the trail and cows with rauchbier at Tin Mill Brewery (tinmillbrewery.
pushing wet noses through fences. Seventy miles later, legs com) next door. After dark, we flicked on our
heavy and faces caked with dust, we arrived in Sedalia at the headlights and rode to Joey’s Birdhouse (joeylos.
91-year-old Hotel Bothwell (hotelbothwell.com; doubles from com; doubles from $85), a homey inn run by Joey
$85), a 53-room spot with a posh veneer and free bike storage. Los, the mayor of McKittrick, Missouri. Last
year she took oice with four votes. Not
by four votes—four votes total. When
I marveled at the bluffs looming to we woke, the mayor cooked us breakfast
my left and the Missouri River moving with vegetables from her garden.
Katy Trail slowly to my right. My legs seemed The beer legacy of Missouri, home to
Anheuser-Busch, is well known. But
MISSOURI to match pace with the current. German immigrants also identified the
Missouri River Valley as an ideal spot for
In the morning, as we were about to head out, we heard a growing grapes. Augusta was the nation’s first
sudden pop. My front rim got pinched in the freight elevator. recognized wine region, and today, clustered
It would take two days to deliver a new wheel, but Sedalia, around the old German settlements, you’ll find
a colorful former brothel town, turned out to be the stopover more than 100 wineries. Dufur had advised us to
we didn’t know we needed. We ate cheeseburgers with approach their product with an open mind. “Our
peanut butter, a Sedalia delicacy, at Goody’s Steakburgers wines are good, and they win awards, but most
(660-826-2828; entrées $7–$13) and toured the Katy Depot people aren’t used to the varietals we have here.”
museum (katydepotsedalia.com). At Pro-Velo Cycle Sports, At Augusta Winery (augustawinery.com), Zach
owner Ebby Norman described the appeal of the Katy, as and I pushed through a crowded room for a
he saw it: “If you want to see the country, the eleven or twelve tasting. Sure enough, there were no Rieslings or
miles per hour you travel on a bike is just about perfect.” Merlots. Instead, we drank Vignoles, Vidal Blanc,
It was drizzling when my wheel arrived, so we threw on and Chambourcin, a dry nectar thick with spicy
rain gear and set out as droplets crackled against the leaves blackberry flavor. And it dawned on me: without
overhead. I marveled at the limestone bluffs looming to the Big Muddy, this wine wouldn’t be possible.
my left and the Missouri River moving slowly to my right, The water is brown because it’s rich with silt and
skirting the northern edge of the Ozark Plateau. My legs loam. The slow-moving current holds a potent
seemed to match pace with the current. When the rain punch of minerals that get deposited into the
stopped, bullfrog calls and birdsong filled the void. A harrier floodplain, from which they move on to the vines.
hawk glided ahead, flying a couple of feet above the trail. Staring into my glass, the river’s pace and
When I lived here, I didn’t appreciate all this tranquility. color began to seem like marks of quality rather
I turned up my nose at the brown, lazy Missouri River. than flaws. You can take the good with the bad:
Locals affectionately call it the Big Muddy, but to me it a rainy day for every great wurst, a broken
looked like refried beans. After college, I moved to New York wheel for every mayor who cooks you breakfast.
and spent years living as fast as I could. Returning home, That’s easier to see when you slow down.
I realized how much I could gain from slowing down. Eleven or 12 miles an hour is just about perfect.
That night, we stopped at the Katy Trail B&B (katytrailbb.
com; doubles from $160), in the tiny town of Rocheport. Clint Carter is a Brooklyn-based writer and editor.
travelandleisure.com 35
Uluru, in the southern part of
Australia’s Northern Territory, D I S PAT C H
is considered sacred by the
Aboriginal people.
AMID THE FLAT, earthen landscapes of Australia, visitors ceremonies, often dating back
traditionally had one experience on their must-do list: thousands of years, within the geologic
climbing Ayers Rock, the immense sandstone formation at folds around its circumference.
the center of the country. In the 80s, i climbed ayers rock This past November, Australia’s
T-shirts were a necessary souvenir; a decade ago, almost National Parks board, which oversees
half of all tourists in Australia were checking the hike off Uluru, voted to ban climbing for good.
their bucket lists. But since 1993, when the government It was, the board’s director said, the
reinstated the rock’s local name, Uluru, and awareness “righting of an historic wrong”—an
began growing that the indigenous community considers acknowledgment that Aboriginal
it sacred, clambering to the summit has been controversial. people have lived on the continent for
Australia’s more than 500 Aboriginal tribes are like 60,000 years, and that their link to the
individual nations, each with its own language and customs. land is a birthright. The rule, which
But one belief unites them all: the idea of an ancestral tie will go into effect in October 2019, is
to Mother Earth. For the Anangu people who live around also evidence of the way the Anangu
Uluru, the rock is the place from which they came and are increasingly shaping the visitor
the place they will return to after death. For that reason, experience. As with tours of the
EWEN BELL
they do not climb it; instead, they perform rituals and Canadian wilderness tailored by
travelandleisure.com 39
An Anangu guide leads a tour of
native plants in the gardens at
Ayers Rock Resort.
F ROM TOP : C O URTESY OF VOYAG ES AY E R S ROC K RESO RT ; G EORG E A P OSTOL ID IS /CO U RTESY O F BA ILLIE LO D G ES
rock was an expensive, far-fetched proposition. $2,266), a luxurious tented retreat
Even after the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park was that’s separate from Ayers Rock
listed as a unesco World Heritage site in the mid-90s, Resort, with views of Uluru,
the nearby collection of hotels and campsites was at best an relaunched after a lengthy makeover.
40 travelandleisure.com
D I S PAT C H
Bread of Life
During a culinary research trip to the Republic of
Georgia, the team behind Maydan, a new restaurant
in Washington, D.C., tour backyard bakeries—and
return with inspiration for their signature lavash.
By Hannah Walhout
“CHRIS BURNED ALL HIS ARM HAIRS OFF.” Rose Previte laughs, At Maydan, clay-oven
flatbread is often
recalling a memorable day of bread baking in Georgia’s paired with Middle
Racha highlands. The part owner of Maydan (maydandc.com; Eastern dips like
entrées $12–$48)—a new restaurant tracing a common muhammara and
beet borani.
culinary ancestry across North Africa, the Middle East,
and the Caucasus—visited Georgia last year as one leg of
a multi-country preopening trip with co-owners and
executive chefs Chris Morgan and Gerald Addison. Morgan,
for his part, notes that the Georgian women they baked
with never lost any of their arm hairs as they reached into
their scorching ovens with bare hands.
MAYDAN’S TONÉ ACTIVE TIME
The chewy, bubbly flatbread the chefs learned to make in FLATBREAD 50 mins
42 travelandleisure.com
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46 travelandleisure.com
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Below: San Cristóbal,
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48 travelandleisure.com
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Highway
to Heaven
Captivated by the vintage camper vans splashed across
social media, Tess Taylor sets out on a family journey through California
to discover the unfiltered reality of life in the slow lane.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E .CO M / P R O M O/C H E C K- I N /
ROAD TRIP N
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LI D
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Santa Cruz
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D AY S
2–3
SAN SIMEON
As we left, we were diverted onto a tiny,
winding road. “Good job, Georgia,” Taylor
said, patting her dash before beginning to sing
“Georgia on My Mind.” Georgia was on my mind, D AY S
4–5
RED ROCK CANYON
too. After all, she was chugging on a side road After a brief detour to L.A. for
up a narrow cliff. We had no Internet, no map. sightseeing and showers, we waved farewell
We would have to embrace this particular to cosmopolitan glamour and headed for the
precariousness. Our fate was in her hands. desert. Forlorn and improbable developments
When we reached San Simeon State Park, the lay scattered among the Joshua trees. As we
sun was low. We pulled up and watched elephant entered the high Mojave, a windstorm picked
seals, laughing as their husky snorts filled the up. Taylor gripped the wheel, his knuckles
air. We checked out neon anemones in tide pools. whitening. The van shuddered. Our arrival in
Kayakers and surfers were wandering back to Red Rock Canyon State Park offered no peace: the
camp after a day on the water. We unpacked, and blowing sand was shrapnel-sharp. We watched
Bennett climbed trees while I cooked burgers. the sun set through the windshield, grateful
I felt happy—I’d joined a particularly lovely for our in-van dinner of boxed macaroni. We
subculture. The kids built a sleeping fort before played dominoes, listened to the howling wind,
conking out. As I drifted off, someone crooned and, blessedly, fell asleep. When I ventured
“This Land Is Your Land” in the distance. out later, everything was still. Oblong cliffs cut
eerie shapes against a starry sky. The desert
was cold and silent. Our van was a four-wheeled
cabin in a lonely universe.
The dawn was stunning. We ate bacon and
eggs in the sharp pink light, then headed out
to explore fabulous formations—red sandstone
mushrooms, top-hat turrets, crooked caves.
After the hike, there was
a big drive ahead, crossing
352
M I L E S T R AV E L E D
the vastness of remote
American space. Dirt roads
disappeared into distant
6
PEACE SIGNS
hills. Georgia felt like a
FLASHED TO small submarine trawling
FELLOW WESTY
DRIVERS an ancient seafloor. The
kids sang a few songs and
2
BEACHSIDE
then passed out in the
PICNICS
back seat. A lone coyote
crossed our path.
56 travelandleisure.com
Need to plan
the
>«ÕÌÛ>V>Ì`>ÌiÃ]`ýV>«Ã]>`À>`
ÌÀ«ÃÜÌ
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i£v>ÞÀ}>â}>««°
D AY S
6–8
DEATH VALLEY
As we crested the ridge that leads into
Death Valley National Park (nps.gov/deva), my
jaw dropped. The landscape is pure geology,
a rift gashed between mountain ranges.
Everything is mineral and earth crust. The next
day we explored Death Valley’s highlights—the
enchanting one-way road called Artist’s Drive,
the rainbow-colored rockfalls at Artist’s Palette.
We hiked Golden Canyon, one of Death Valley’s
richly colored ravines. Bennett and I chatted
about books, and Emeline hiked a whole mile on
her own. I felt happy in my family and my body made us emblems of a happier America—more The beach
and the sun. That afternoon, I did yoga on the hopeful, joyful, and wayward. I felt exhausted near San Simeon
Point in San
warm yellow rocks outside the van. but alive. I also felt sure I could do without Simeon, California.
But here is a truth Instagram doesn’t show: hearing “On the Road Again” for a long while.
we were short on clean clothes, and when Our Subaru was blessedly modern and quiet.
I woke up cold in the night, even the crescent We were back in 2018, ordering groceries by
moon just out the door couldn’t quell my longing app from the car and takeout to meet us at home.
for a real mattress. So just after sunrise, we Even so, we splurged on a final adventure, an
rolled back toward Bakersfield, past the Central enchanted hour at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk
Valley’s cows, crops, and derricks. At the Tule Elk (beachboardwalk.com). On the roller coaster,
State Natural Reserve, just outside Buttonwillow, Emeline’s face was so full of light I could watch
we stopped to stretch, eat, and see elk. A few it forever. That night, I was supremely grateful
hours later, we pulled into Mission San Miguel for my bed, but I missed
(missionsanmiguel.org), a stunning 1790s Georgia. I’d gotten my wish,
Spanish mission that still holds original but now I had a new one:
frescoes. By midafternoon, we were back in
159
M I L E S T R AV E L E D I’d like to #vanlife it again—
Santa Cruz, saying hi to Benny and Dave. to get back in the slow lane,
“I don’t want to give the van back!” Emeline 4
COYOTES
and maybe even go slower.
said. I felt her pain. Our time with Georgia felt SPOTTED
intimate, unpretentious, full of songs. I loved Tess Taylor is a California-
driving a vehicle that made everyone from park 24
T O TA L P L AY S O F
based poet. Her most recent
rangers to fellow freeway warriors smile. I loved T H AT O N E
book, Work & Days, was
flashing peace signs to other Westy drivers and DAMNED WILLIE
NELSON SONG
one of the New York Times’
stopping for impromptu picnics. Being in the van 10 best poetry books of 2016.
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T R AV E L S M A R T E R
Seeing the
Bigger Picture
Beyond-the-guidebook itineraries remain immensely popular, and the
passionate travelers who seek them out have a vested interest
in choosing experiences that are ethically sound, culturally sensitive,
and environmentally sustainable. Operators have long referred to
the concept as responsible tourism, and now it’s entering the zeitgeist.
We can all easily adopt a more conscientious approach to travel in
ways both major and minor. Below, check out four new itineraries from
top operators, and in the ensuing pages, discover strategies to pack
lighter, connect with locals on a deeper level, and leave the places you
visit just as you found them—perhaps even a little better.
INDONESIA PERU itineraries to help travelers will embark on its second Cape
Peregrine Adventures launched During a nine-day journey that connect with the people of York & Arnhem Land Indigenous
five new tours this year to spans cities and archaeological Africa. These include the 10-day Australian Art itinerary, which
uncrowded coastal communities sites, guests on Classic Escapes’ Travel with Purpose excursion, begins in Darwin (the Northern
in Southeast Asia, including an Andean trips visit the Cuyuni during which tour members bike Territory’s capital) and ends
eight-day excursion to this people, who live near the Sacred to the agrarian Mayoka and in Queensland’s Cairns,
country. Guests travel on the Valley just an hour from Cuzco. Moya communities for a wildlife a hub for trips to the Great
company’s small, carbon- Over a light meal, the villagers drive and a conservation lesson Barrier Reef. The 11-night
neutral ships to the tiny port discuss how they embrace with students from a local voyage introduces passengers
MA R KU S MAUT H E / L A I F / RE D UX
destinations of Moyo Island modern farming and tourism secondary school. andbeyond. to Aboriginal heritage through
and Bangsal. There they meet while maintaining ancestral com; from $9,584 per person. visits to galleries and meeting
traditional sarong weavers, traditions. classicescapes.com; places, such as Bábbara
explore rice paddies, and from $3,495 per person. AUSTRALIA Women’s Center, where
often stay in locally owned Partnering with local women silk-screen and
accommodations. peregrine TANZANIA organizations is a key part of sell textiles. coralexpeditions.
adventures.com; from $3,170 In February, andBeyond Coral Expeditions’ philosophy. In com; from $8,290 per
per person. launched a trio of philanthropic October, the eco-cruise operator person. — Melanie Lieberman
travelandleisure.com 67
UPGR ADE
TA K E
FIVE
The Basics of
Traveling Responsibly
Leigh Barnes, the newly appointed chief purpose officer
of Intrepid Travel (intrepidtravel.com), oversees the
adventure-focused operator’s mission to base all of its tours,
in more than 120 countries, on responsible principles. He
offers tips for planning a conscious getaway. By Siobhan Reid Venice recently
installed turnstile
checkpoints
How do you define placed in orphanages to THE
to reroute some
responsible tourism? meet tourist demand. L EX I C O N
visitor traffic.
The term refers to a focus on
How can a traveler
how individual actions affect
determine if a trip is
individual locations and
executed responsibly?
businesses. It’s about
bettering communities and
bolstering local economies
Start by asking questions.
Does the trip or tour overtourism (noun)
activity bring real When the natural carrying capacity of a
through individual actions.
economic value directly to destination has been exceeded—whether permanently
The 2002 World Summit on
the community? Does it or temporarily— by the number of visitors.
Sustainable Development in
empower the people? Is it
Johannesburg, South Africa,
respectful of the natural
formalized the travel Tourism can be a financial boon for cities and an aid in the
and cultural heritage of
industry’s objective as preservation of natural wonders. But there’s a limit to the
that place? The answers
“making better places for volume any place can reasonably sustain before it (and its
will help you choose an
people to live in and better resources) are overwhelmed. During the past year, several
operator that supports the
places for people to visit.” national governments have started implementing
local economy. Also look
Why does it make a for businesses that are restrictions aimed at reining in all the traffic.
difference to travelers? making strides toward Authorities in Venice and other popular seaside
For one, you’ll have a more becoming carbon-neutral. destinations—including Dubrovnik, Croatia, and Santorini,
authentic experience. The Greece—now limit the size and number of large cruise ships
What are some small allowed to dock at their ports and encourage travelers to
better informed you are,
ways people can make seek accommodations outside of historic city centers. To
the easier a time you’ll have
their travels more cope with the nearly 5,000 tourists who go to Machu Picchu
connecting with locals and
responsible? each day, threatening the delicate mountain ecoystem and
immersing yourself in the
Any place that gets too the indigenous people who rely on it, the Peruvian
culture. You’ll probably
many visitors will have a government implemented new restrictions, including
make more friends and
deterioration in the natural specific ticket times and an overall cap on daily admissions.
discover cool local
environment and the quality Meanwhile, because trekking to the Inca site has become so
hangouts along the way.
of life for the locals. This is popular, there’s been a surge in demand for pack animals,
What are some vacation why off-the-beaten-path prompting some outfitters to use mules for heavy lifting.
experiences the experiences—like adventure Alejandra Arias-Stella, cofounder of the Llama Pack Project,
responsible traveler cruising, with smaller encourages visitors to seek out companies that use the
should avoid? vessels that travel to traditional but less stalwart llama, which is adapted to the
Steer clear of elephant destinations and ports that environment and consequently less destructive. She also
rides and other no other ships go to—are suggests alternative routes to the crowded Inca Trail, such
performative wildlife preferable. Intrepid just as the Lares or Salcantay treks.
activities. The animals are launched tours to Moldova, Travelers can also lessen their impact on popular
at risk of being mistreated Poland, and Finland as destinations by visiting during the low and off seasons,
by the host companies, and a way of providing when there will be fewer tourists putting stress on a place
C H RI S - MU E L LE R/ G E T T Y I MAG ES
training practices can be alternatives to more heavily and its people. For destinations specifically affected by
physically and mentally trafficked Croatia and climate change (think: the Dead Sea, the Maldives,
harmful to the animals. Iceland. But whatever Montana’s Glacier National Park), take the time to be a
Visits to orphanages can your destination, shop at careful steward of the land while you’re there. Doing that
also be problematic. In independent businesses to is as easy as not disturbing animals or their habitats and
some instances, the support the local economy not picking flowers or trampling on vegetation—or just
children do have parents, and refrain from single-use throwing away any litter you see. — Melanie Lieberman
but they’ve been removed plastics to help keep trash
from their homes and out of landfills.
68 travelandleisure.com
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UPGR ADE
6
3
5
THE
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“I always have to get a run in or “I like to use things to the eczema, too, so it’s good for great because it has a
get to the gym, so I start by absolute end of their lives and keeping my skin on point.” designated place for suits,
packing exercise clothes—that’s try to resist having a throwaway Isa’s Restoratives Blue Beauty so you can fold them up
a priority for me. Lately I’ve been mentality. I finally upgraded Balm, $60; isasrestoratives. and get quite a lot in there
wearing Reebok bottoms and to a new Kindle about a year myshopify.com. while still being nimble.
old T-shirts that I’ve cut the ago, but it’s still in the case for It’s all about not being
sleeves off.” Reebok running my old one.” Kindle Paperwhite 6 MASSAGE BALLS bogged down by excess.”
tights, $55; reebok.com. United E-Reader, $120; amazon.com. “When I get tight muscles Tumi International
by Blue x Lonely Whale T-shirt, up in the sky, I like to stretch Expandable Four-Wheeled
$36; unitedbyblue.com. 4 NATURAL TOOTHPASTE and use one of these. Carry-On, $725; tumi.com.
“Since glass containers are Don’t wanna get deep-vein
2 FACE CLEANSER better for the environment, I buy thrombosis!” Pro-Tec Orb 8 RESISTANCE BANDS
“The consistency of this one this alkalizing toothpaste, which Extreme Mini (black), $15; Dr. “A lot of times, I don’t have
from Isa’s line feels like you’re comes in a jar.” Uncle Harry’s Cohen’s AcuBall Mini (blue), the chance to go to the
giving yourself a little mud bath. Anise Toothpaste, $6; $20; Spiky Massage Ball (red), gym, so I pack these to give
All of her products are plant- uncleharrys.com. $10; pro-tecathletics.com. myself options. They’re
based, with very few ingredients.” versatile enough to use in
Isa’s Restoratives Travel Size 5 BEAUTY BALM 7 A STURDY SUITCASE a hotel room.” TheraBand
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70 travelandleisure.com
UPGR ADE
B U R N I N G Q U EST I O N negatively affect the ocean’s many hotels, tour operators, To ensure your sunscreen is
coral reefs. Researchers have and destinations have begun eco-friendly, look for the Protect
Is your found that when corals are
exposed to the chemical, they
advocating the use of reef-
safe products. Aqua-Aston
Land + Sea Certification seal,
which confirms the product
sunscreen encounter an increased rate
of bleaching, DNA damage,
Hospitality, which operates
more than 40 hotels and resorts
was tested and found to be free
of problematic substances.
hurting the and, in some cases, death. throughout Hawaii, has installed You can also check the label
Even if you aren’t swimming reef-safe sunscreen dispensers for common ingredients
environment? near a reef, your sunscreen at several of its properties. like oxybenzone, octinoxate,
can still endanger coral. As a Additionally, the state’s octocrylene, and parabens—all
matter of fact, you don’t even legislators passed a bill banning of which harm the environment.
The short answer: most likely. need to set foot in the water the sale of sunscreens that For a rundown of chemicals to
The majority of mainstream to cause harm. Oxybenzone use oxybenzone and another avoid, visit haereticus-lab.org/
WAT E R FR A ME / A L A MY
sunscreens contain oxybenzone, can both stick to the sand and common chemical, octinoxate. If protect-land-sea-certification,
a chemical filter that protects wash off in the shower, which signed into law by the governor, and find a list of reef-safe
your skin from the sun’s means the chemical could the ban will take effect in options on tandl.me/reef-safe-
harmful UV rays, but can also end up in the sea. In response, January 2021. sunscreens. — John Scarpinato
72 travelandleisure.com
PROMOTION
jameshotels.com/new-york/nomad
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E .CO M / P R O M O/C H E C K- I N /
A fjord in
northeastern
Canada’s Torngat
Mountains National
Park, where some
rock formations are
almost 4 billion
years old.
74 travelandleisure.com
Among serious adventure-seekers, word is spreading about Torngat Mountains National
Park—a remote, Inuit-run reserve in Labrador, in northeastern Canada. Between polar-bear
sightings and brushes with icebergs, ADAM LEITH GOLLNER finds out why this
region of otherworldly beauty has such deep cultural resonance for its indigenous people.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN CULLEN
the buffer zone surrounding the base camp’s
fenced-in, electrified perimeter without being
accompanied by at least one of them. Several years
ago, I was told, a group of hikers who attempted an
overnight trip without notifying the guards were
attacked as they slept in their tents, and one was
mauled nearly to death. The lesson was clear: in
the Torngats, if it’s humans versus the wilderness,
the wilderness will win.
Opposite, clockwise from top left: An iceberg off the coast of Torngat Mountains National Park; Paul Jararuse, an Inuit elder who works as a guide in the
park; fishing for arctic char at a mooring point in one of the Torngats’ many glacier lakes; arctic char drying in the sun at base camp.
76 travelandleisure.com
The northern lights
appear over base
camp, where guests
can stay in heated
geodesic domes.
at reconciliation with its aboriginal peoples. The Inuit and their
predecessors have inhabited Arctic Labrador for millennia, but
during the 1950s, the government forced those communities to
relocate southward, mainly to the towns of Nain, Hopedale, and
Makkovik, where they were cut off from their way of life and
underwent the notorious traumas of Canada’s residential school
system. As part of land-claim settlements signed in 2005, the
federal government agreed to hand control of this territory back
to the Labrador Inuit and, in 2008, delivered on its promise to
protect the Torngat region by granting it full national park status.
Flying there takes anywhere from a day or two up to a week,
depending on the weather. This is the Arctic: scheduling extra
days for contingencies is recommended. A fisheries researcher
I met on the trip told me he recently sat through 10 days of
storms waiting for flights to resume. “A week and a half late!
The wife back home was pretty furious, eh?”
I was luckier. Arriving at Labrador’s Goose Bay airport with
my friend John Cullen, who took the photographs for this story,
I found our flight was due to take off within a few hours of its
scheduled departure time. Once the conditions were right, a
Twin Otter took us to Nain, the province’s northernmost town,
and then an hour or so north to Saglek Bay, just outside the
park. The plane, though cold and cramped, delivered a series
of mind-blowing glimpses of the landscape below. I watched
a pod of porpoises skim through the turquoise surface of the
Labrador Sea and moose roam through the swaths of
coniferous woodland covering the rocky Canadian Shield. The
terrain was broken up by mirror-gray lakes, violet waterways,
and forest-green bays. Then the spruce trees began to get
smaller and sparser, until there were no trees anymore. We
were now above the tree line, in the Arctic tundra.
Soon, we were out over the ocean, a wrinkled cerulean
tapestry broken, here and there, by icebergs. Then we entered
a patch of cloud. The air in the plane grew colder. When the mist
began to part, huge shapes appeared in the distance, indistinct at
first. I couldn’t tell if they were mountains or some kind of low-
air-pressure-induced hallucination. These were the Torngats,
their glacier-capped peaks protruding above the clouds.
“What an incredible flight!” I exclaimed to the pilot as
we stepped out onto the gravel landing strip at Saglek.
“You haven’t even seen the really beautiful stuff yet,”
she said. “This is just the beginning.”
travelandleisure.com 79
On our first afternoon, we set off to explore the coastline by
boat. Within minutes, we came across a massive iceberg drifting
gently through the doldrums of the Labrador Sea like a blazing
white palace. Everyone knows that the majority of any iceberg
is actually submerged, but there’s something transformative
about seeing the mansion-size tip with your own eyes, and
contemplating what lies beneath. We could hear what’s known
as the “bergy seltzer”—a popping soda-like sound caused by
thousand-year-old air escaping from pockets in the ice.
Beyond all the polar bears, I was amazed at how much
wildlife we spotted from the water as we toured the park
coastline, from caribou on the tundra to bearded seals
frolicking off the ice floes. Looking down through gin-clear
water to the ocean floor, we could see colonies of sea urchins
everywhere—enough uni to last several lifetimes. At one point,
we rounded a headland to see a minke whale breaching right
in front of our boat, flashing its dorsal fin as if flirting with us.
I asked John Jararuse what went through his mind when taking
in such sights. “Home,” was his simple reply. Later that morning,
he steered our boat into another jord to show us a little plateau of
greenery just above the shoreline, with nothing but a soaring wall
of rocks as shelter. “This is where I was born,” he said. We all
bobbed there in silence for a moment, imagining the drama of
birth in such an open environment, so far from a hospital or
modern comforts of any kind. (Continued on page 104)
T O R N G AT
M O U N TA I N S
N AT I O N A L
PA R K
QUEBEC
NEWFOUNDLAND
AND LABRADOR
BASE CAMP
80 travelandleisure.com
A polar bear on the hunt
off the coast of Torngat
Mountains National Park,
where the animals are
frequently sighted.
In a far-flung patch
of forest in Indonesia,
one of the planet’s
most endangered
primates clings to a
precarious existence.
Saki Knafo travels to
deepest Sumatra
for a rare encounter
with these wise,
watchful
Keepers
of the Jungle
82 travelandleisure.com PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEFAN RUIZ
A wild orangutan in
the Leuser Ecosystem,
a reserve in the jungle
of northern Sumatra.
A traditional Batak
house on Samosir
Island, in Lake Toba.
Left: Hiking
in the Leuser
Ecosystem. Right:
Wild orangutans
in the Leuser forest.
84 travelandleisure.com
supermarket aisles. Palm oil is the most commonly used
vegetable oil in the world, found in snacks, soaps, cosmetics,
and a good number of the other products on our shelves, and
Indonesia produces more of it than any other country,
accounting for about a third of the world’s supply. If there
is a money tree in Indonesia, it is the oil palm.
As we neared the forest, I asked our driver, Adi, who didn’t
speak much English, if he had seen a lot of wildlife over the
years. He started talking excitedly about something called
a “mina,” which I assumed was a kind of monkey, or maybe
a local word for orangutan. In fact, Mina was the name given
by researchers to one particularly notorious orangutan. As a
local would later put it, “she had mental problems.” There were
rumors that Mina had bitten tourists. It turned out she had a
troubled past: captured as a baby, she’d spent years in a cage.
Eventually, she was rescued and brought to a rehabilitation
center for orangutans in Bukit Lawang, a village on the
outskirts of the Leuser rain forest. But by then, her time with
humans had taken its toll.
The Bohorok Rehabilitation Center closed in the 90s, but
several of the orangutans that passed through it still live in the
part of the jungle closest to the village, and so do their progeny,
who tend to take after them. Considered “semi-wild,” they
generally aren’t afraid of people, and some of the guides
capitalize on this fearlessness, luring them closer to tourists
with fried rice.
O
N MY WAY to the Leuser I spent a night in Green Hill, a company that organizes jungle treks and runs
Medan, the capital of North Sumatra the village guesthouse where we stayed, doesn’t go in for that
province, before heading to the jungle kind of thing. Andrea Molyneaux, who manages Green Hill with
the next day. Riding out of town, I found her husband, is an Englishwoman with a master’s in primate
it hard to imagine that in less time than it takes conservation who did her fieldwork at Camp Leakey, on Borneo.
to drive from New York City to Boston, I would The camp was established by the pioneering Lithuanian-
arrive at the edge of one of the richest forests in Canadian conservationist Birutė Mary Galdikas, who is to
Asia. Medan was a crush of people and motorbikes orangutans what Jane Goodall is to chimps. Andrea’s motto is
and trucks and endless rows of street stalls filling painted on a big sign out front: keep wildlife wild.
economic niches I didn’t know existed. We passed For the most part, Bukit Lawang resembles the other towns
a stall selling only kitchen clocks, another selling in the region—humble concrete buildings with rusty corrugated
only birdcages, and a purse vendor who, lacking metal roofs. But at its far end, the road gives way to a footpath
a stall, had hung her wares from the sprawling that meanders through the trees, and if you follow the path along
limbs of a tree, prompting my travel companion, the river, past the shops selling orangutan T-shirts and
Stefan Ruiz, who took the photographs for this orangutan carvings, you’ll find yourself in the hotel district, a
story, to make one of his trademark observations: sort of fantasy of an Indonesian village filled with guesthouses
“It’s literally a money tree.” made with bamboo, jungle logs, and branches.
Finally the traic thinned and the city faded, That night, Stefan and I slept in rustic rooms overlooking the
and we were rumbling through the palm jungle. The next day, we planned to march right into that
plantations, acres and acres of them, the tall, seething mass of green. We were to spend the morning close to
spare trees stretching as far as we could see in the village looking for semi-wild orangutans, which we were
every direction, in rows as straight as practically guaranteed to see. Then our guides would take us
travelandleisure.com 85
One of the resorts
on Samosir Island,
a popular stop for
visitors to Lake Toba.
deeper into the forest, to an area rarely visited by people where The villagers who came over to look at us didn’t
the foliage would be thicker, the trails rougher, and the wildlife attempt to speak English, and no one tried to sell
truly wild. We planned to camp there for two nights. If we saw us orangutan carvings or anything else.
an orangutan in the deep forest, we’d be among the very few One of the villagers approached with a basket
people who ever have. of supplies. His name was Chilik, and he was
Early the next morning, as the sun rose above trees across the going to serve as an extra guide for the rest of our
river, we went into the forest. Stefan and I were joined by our trip. His training, as I’d later learn, had been
head guide, Anto Cebol, his assistant, Ipan, and a pair of college unconventional. Some years ago, he got lost in the
students from Colorado. Anto, a native of Bukit Lawang, is 38, forest while gathering medicinal plants and
with the long hair and philosophical outlook of someone who has sustained himself for five days by watching the
been exposed from an early age to the beliefs and customs of orangutans to see which fruits they ate. Chilik
stoned Australian backpackers. Sitting on a boulder, he said, “No didn’t speak any English. Unlike Anto, he wore his
one knows how much longer the earth will be.” He smiled hair short, and did not bother with the rubber
defiantly. “Maybe we go to the moon.” trekking shoes worn by the guides in Bukit
We’d been following him for only a few minutes when he Lawang. He led us through the jungle barefoot,
pointed out a troop of black-mohawked Thomas’s leaf monkeys scraping leeches off his ankles with a rusty
in the trees. Though we were still on easy, well-worn paths, machete, and he carried most of our supplies on
sweat started pouring out of me at a rate I’d never imagined his back in a basket made from rattan vines,
possible. Then we saw it: our first orangutan. This was exciting, which the Bukit Lawang guides had long since
of course, that flash of orange in the trees, but she clearly wasn’t abandoned for Western-style backpacks. During
wild. She was stretched out on a limb, unafraid and snack breaks, he would go off by himself and
unimpressed. Antol recognized her; he said he knew her mother. squat on the forest floor, chain-smoking until it
As we stood there staring, a long-tail macaque walked right past was time to leave.
us, not even bothering to glance in our direction. Then a group of That first day, we hiked only a short distance,
Homo sapiens approached in flip-flops, taking selfies. maybe a quarter-mile. Still, it was tough going, as
So by the time we got on the motorbikes and headed down the the rest of the trip would be. The trail rose and fell
road toward a more remote area, I was ready to go a little deeper. at such a steep incline that we often had to grab at
After a bumpy ride through palm plantations, we arrived at roots and vines just to stay upright. At times it
Bukit Kencur, a hamlet on the edge of the part of the jungle that disappeared completely, at which point Chilik
the Green Hill staff had described as untouched. It was clear that would move to the front of the pack and hack a
this place didn’t get many foreign visitors. Clusters of reddish path through the bush with his machete. At last
palm fruit sat in the dirt outside the sun-bleached wooden huts. we came to the campsite. It sat on a slope
86 travelandleisure.com
overlooking a picturesque river. As we rinsed off
in the cool, clear water, a pair of cooks showed up
out of nowhere and built a fire. They boiled a pot
SUMATRA
of rice, fried some tempeh, sautéed a sackful of
tapioca leaves, and whipped up a delicious dish of
Indonesia
dried anchovies with wild ginger and chili. Medan
eT
ob
rain, with a smattering of monkey howls thrown
a
in. We awoke early the next morning, at the first
hint of daylight. Toast, eggs, strong Sumatran PLAN AN ADVENTURE IN SUMATRA
coffee, then back on the trail, pausing every 15 Explore this unsung Indonesian island at the front end of a two-week
minutes so that Anto could pass out pieces of trip. Its extraordinary natural riches make an ideal prelude to the
leaves and bark, schooling us on the names and cultural wonders of Java or the beaches of Bali.
medicinal or culinary uses of each species. There
was the hot-pink flower of a tree he called assam
GETTING THERE to sample a grand more luxurious
kimchin. (A lemony herb; goes well with curry). & AROUND breakfast spread stay, try the Taman
The woody stalk of pasak bumi. (Bitter; defends Fly to Kualanamu that combined Simalem Resort
against malaria). The glossy leaf of the satykop International Airport American, Chinese, (tamansimalem.com;
bush. (Per Anto: “To make not broken the first in Medan via a and Indonesian food. doubles from $87),
baby when baby is still drinking from mama and regional hub such as Another comfortable a group of lodges
mama pregnant.”) On we hiked, our eyes lifted to Singapore. The best option is the JW and private villas
way to reach Gunung Marriott (marriott. overlooking the lake.
the treetops, when suddenly Anto saw something Leuser National Park com; doubles from I recommend a visit
that made him break into a sprint. “Mawa!” he and Lake Toba is to $58), which has a to the Huta Bolon
shouted, crashing through the foliage. “Lucky!” hire a car and driver lovely rooftop pool. Simanindo
Mawa, I knew by then, is the local word for (your hotel can easily (Jl. Pelabuhan
orangutan. make arrangements). BUKIT LAWANG Simanindo, Samosir
Seeing a truly wild orangutan does feel Although Sumatra’s This riverside town Island; 62- 813-
tourism at the entrance to 9672-1133), a
different from seeing one that has grown up
infrastructure is Gunung Leuser preserved historic
around humans. You see in his eyes that he is getting better, most National Park village of traditional
frightened, and in his innocence and awe, he roads remain rough (gunungleuser.or.id) wooden houses.
reminds you of a child. You feel a rush of and crowded, so is where most
nostalgia for your own childhood, when all the expect to spend a orangutan treks TOUR OPERATOR
world felt like this corner of the forest, day traveling to start. I stayed at ATJ’s Jarrod Hobson
each destination. Green Hill is known in the
mysterious and full of wonder. At the same time,
(greenhillbukit industry as “the
you can’t help suspecting you feel this way MEDAN lawang.com; Indonesia guy” and is
primarily because you come from the West, For most travelers, packages from a long-standing
where you and your compatriots, having Indonesia’s fourth- $240), a guesthouse presence on T+L’s
benefited from centuries of environmentally largest city is a where the staff A-List of top travel
destructive agricultural and industrial practices, gateway to the arranges trips into advisors. He can
natural attractions of the jungle. For create custom
have forgotten the hardships of forest life. This is North Sumatra. I optimum orangutan itineraries that
one of the reasons you can afford to look back at arrived after dark and sightings, those combine Sumatra
that bygone existence through a romantic lens, set out for the jungle willing to rough it with other islands,
much in the way you can afford to romanticize the next morning, should consider such as Java and Bali.
your childhood only after the pain of growing up skipping such sights booking a three- atj.com; from $350
has receded. You think these things, and you as Our Lady of or four-day trek. per person per day.
Velangkanni (velang
wonder what the orangutan is thinking. And then
kanni.com), an Indo- LAKE TOBA WHAT TO PACK
the screeching ape demonstrates his mastery of Mughal-style church, After an eight-hour You’ll need a
simple tools by breaking off a stick and throwing and the museum at drive from Bukit powerful insect
it at you. Knowing what you know about humans, Maimun Palace Lawang, I took a ferry repellent, sunscreen
can you blame him? (66 Jl. Sultan to Samosir Island in with a high SPF, a
Eventually the orangutan calmed down and Ma’moen Al Rasyid; the middle of the headlamp, a
62-61-452-4244). I lake. Lodging at waterproof wallet for
just hung there from the branches staring back
did stick around my Carolina Cottages your passport and
at us. Then we heard a rustling of leaves a little hotel, Aryaduta (carolina-cottages. papers, tough hiking
way off. “Another one!” Anto cried. Two, in Medan (aryaduta. com; doubles from boots, and light,
fact—a mother and baby. So that’s why the first com; doubles from $12) was basic but long-sleeved shirts
one hadn’t fled at the sight of us: he was $110), long enough comfortable. For a and long pants. — S.K.
protecting his family. (Continued on page 102)
travelandleisure.com 87
A bedrock in a famous region, Jordan contains ancient ruins and cultural
treasures that go far beyond the city of Petra. On an adventure-filled journey through the country,
Zander Abranowicz watches history unfold amid the alien beauty of the desert landscapes.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY WILLIAM ABRANOWICZ
travelandleisure.com 89
MY FATHER AND I DANGLED our bare
feet over the edge of a cliff, a column
of light broke through the clouds and
swept across the dunes of Wadi Rum.
In his book The Seven Pillars of
Wisdom, the British oicer and
archaeologist T. E. Lawrence, who often camped here
during the Arab revolt of 1916, described the place as
“vast and echoing and godlike.” We’d been discussing how
much this 300-square-mile wadi, or valley, in southern
Jordan reminded us of the canyons of the American West
as mythologized by Edward Curtis, one of our favorite
photographers. But we fell silent when the sun lit up the
red earth. So did a dozen other travelers scattered atop
the mount. My father, a longtime travel photographer
and the man responsible for these images, reached for
his camera. We all took in the view until a pickup truck
appeared, kicking up clouds of sand, to ferry us back
to our tented camps for sunset.
To travel in the Kingdom of Jordan is to be constantly Arabia, to the southeast, offers stability—
reminded of the ancient world. Four days earlier, as we though the ambitions of the crown prince,
explored the capital city of Amman, our guide had taken Mohammad bin Salman, could change that.
us up Mount Al-Qalah, one of the seven limestone hills A bastion of peace in a volatile part of the
that make up the old city. We stopped for an aerial view of world, Jordan has long relied on tourism, which
a Roman amphitheater, built in the second century, that is until the Arab Spring accounted for 20 percent of
now surrounded by low apartment buildings. The steep the country’s GDP. But foreign travel has slowed
rows still seat spectators for cultural events. A plaza at the since then, straining both the economy and the
base of the amphitheater hummed with gentle activity, as national psyche. One might argue that there has
locals enjoyed the cool evening. Floodlights cast shadows never been a better time to visit Jordan, since
against the Roman walls as the call to prayer echoed. sites like Petra are less traicked than they have
Jordan, it must be said, is in a diicult neighborhood. been in years. (The ancient Nabataean city saw
Hundreds of thousands (some say millions) of Syrian and 400,000 visitors in 2016, half of what it got a
Iraqi refugees have crossed the country’s northern and decade earlier.) My father and I avoid crowds
eastern borders during the past 15 years. (Earlier this year, when traveling, which is part of what drew us to
the kingdom even rescued Lula, a starving bear, from a visit Jordan with Wild Frontiers, a London-based
bombed-out zoo in Mosul, Iraq, resettling her in a wildlife tour operator that organizes tailor-made, off-the-
refuge in Amman.) Across the river Jordan, in the West beaten-path itineraries. We also wanted to go
Bank, Palestinians still live under Israeli occupation. To the because every traveler who chooses Jordan right
southwest, across the Red Sea, Egypt struggles to contain now is casting a vote of support for the country’s
an Islamist insurgency on the Sinai Peninsula. Saudi stability, and in turn, the stability of our world.
90 travelandleisure.com
Clockwise from left: Bedouin gather for
tea in Wadi Rum, a valley in southern
Jordan; Feynan Eco Lodge, an intimate
property located in the Dana Biosphere
Reserve, uses no electricity, relying on
tiny candles to illuminate the halls and
rooms; Greco-Roman columns in the
ancient city of Jerash.
travelandleisure.com 91
A cat plays near Ad Deir, or the Monastery,
in the ancient city of Petra. The structure
was built by the Nabataeans in the first
century A.D. Opposite: Mosaics in a
Byzantine-era church at Mount Nebo, a
ridge mentioned in the Hebrew Bible.
was mesmerized by the r ck
formati ns, sculpted by t e
win over millennia t resemble
delicate turtle shel s.
on the Roman road extending north from the
forum; deep grooves from centuries of traic
made footing treacherous. Carvings of acanthus
leaves crowned the high Corinthian columns
that lined our route. Starlings darted in and out
of nests wedged in the cracks between segments.
We lingered at the nymphaeum, an ornate
fountain that once dispensed water from seven
spigots. Earthquakes have rerouted its water
source, but other Roman-era basins around
Jerash fill up each winter.
Next, we rode south on the King’s Highway,
which has been adapted to modern needs.
Though slower than the parallel Desert Highway,
it is far more scenic. The tight folds of the
Ammani hills gave way to undulating valleys
dotted with olive trees and groves of prickly
pears. On our long push southward, we stopped
at Mount Nebo, where Moses is said to have died,
and Karak, a cliff-side Crusader fortress, both
of which left me again in awe of Jordan’s history.
We also saw girls in white hijabs walking home
from school and the blank faces of local
politicians staring from faded campaign posters.
By the time we approached the mountain a sweeping canyon. I now saw that our room at the RSCN-
village of Dana, darkness had fallen, interrupted run Dana Guesthouse was cantilevered over the edge of the
only by the flickering lights of Israel in the miles-wide basin, which on its west side funneled into a gorge.
distance. Closer to us lay a black gulf I knew to Eleven hiking trails snake through Dana. Malik, our
be the Dana Biosphere Reserve, set aside in encyclopedic local guide, led us through the center of the
1989 by the Royal Society for the Conservation valley along the most popular route. Not long into our descent,
of Nature. The late King Hussein, considered Malik grabbed my arm and pointed. My eyes made out a twitch
the father of modern Jordan, founded the RSCN of motion on the northern canyon wall. “Nubian ibex,” he
in 1966 to stem the extermination of the Arabian whispered. “There, another! And another!” Rapt, we tracked
oryx, an elusive, steppe-dwelling antelope that a half-dozen of these nimble mountain goats as they skirted
had been hunted nearly to extinction by oilmen the face. They stayed in a tight unit to guard against the threat
and Arab princes. Reintroduced to the wild in of eagles, whose preferred hunting method is to drag young
1980, the animal now safely roams reserves ibex from the cliffs, then let gravity finish the job. Malik
in other parts of the country, including Wadi explained that ibex venture from the highlands only in
Rum and Shaumari. Though there are no search of water. “It hasn’t rained for months,” he explained.
Arabian oryx at Dana, there are numerous Their bad luck, it seemed, was our good fortune.
other creatures, and the reserve is Jordan’s As we descended, scree gave way to soft sand that showed the
largest, covering 198 square miles on the edge tracks of a sand fox. Malik pointed to a trio of griffon vultures, a
of the Great Rift Valley, the tectonic trench species of old-world scavengers, who were using their nine-foot
extending from Lebanon to Mozambique. wingspans to surf the ridgeline thermals high above us. In the
I woke up the next morning to my father’s course of four hours and 4,000 feet we had passed through each
voice. “Come see this,” he called from the of Jordan’s four bioclimatic zones: Mediterranean (windswept
balcony. Pillowy masses of fog filled the walls of and dotted with juniper), Irano-Turanian (marked by sculptural
travelandleisure.com 93
rock formations), Saharo-Arabian
(parched, pure, cinematic), and
Sudanian (shaded by acacia and
stands of bamboo brought by
migrating birds). With the sun still
high, we crossed Wadi Dana’s final
escarpment, where a band of Bedouin
was camped in black goatskin tents.
A few young tribesmen emerged to
observe us walking to the lowlands of
Feynan. The Bedouin (from the Arabic
badawi, meaning “desert dweller”)
once wandered between North Africa
and Iraq, guiding argosies of camels
and taxing foreign caravans. As with
other indigenous populations from
the Americas to Australia, colonial
statecraft had a withering effect on
their traditional way of life in the
19th and 20th centuries, pushing
many into cities. Today, however,
the Bedouin enjoy significant
autonomy, both legal and cultural.
The Middle East is known for the
ritual welcoming of guests, but the
Bedouin have turned it into an art.
The next place we stayed, the
Bedouin-run Feynan Eco Lodge,
which sits between Dana’s highlands
and the desert of Wadi Araba,
exemplifies their knack for
hospitality. After passing through the
worn wooden doors of a large adobe
structure and into a tree-shaded
courtyard, we were met by the
lodge’s young manager, Hussein
al-Amareen, who handed us icy
glasses of fresh mint lemonade. He then showed us to our room, LIKE MANY WHO COME to Jordan, my father and
which had colorful glass embedded in the stucco walls. I were anxious to see the ancient city of Petra,
That afternoon, three of the hotel’s Bedouin employees led us and about a two-hour drive south of Feynan. Few,
a pair of intrepid young English women up a gentle rise west of the however, enter this network of sandstone cave
lodge. There they built a small fire and brewed sage tea. “It hasn’t dwellings and classical façades as we did.
rained here in many months,” said Suleiman, who spoke the strongest Following a Bedouin guide and his mule, we
English. It’s not the economic pressure of drought that most disturbs ascended a stone path along a harrowing valley,
the community, he explained, but the sense of cosmic misalignment circumventing the crowded route through the
it represents. Without rain, they had no way to practice their ancient gorge to approach Petra from the northwest: a
pastoral ways. Replace “rain” with “travelers,” and our conversation reverse commute, as my father described it. I was
reflected many I’d had, with street merchants and local guides, across absorbed by the rock formations, sculpted by the
the country in the past few days. The sustainability of Jordan’s winds over millennia to resemble delicate turtle
traditions relies, in no small part, on the health of the tourism business. shells, or the baleen of a whale. “The greatest
The mood grew lighter as the sun dropped behind the clouds, the artists pale in comparison,” my father said.
mountains glowing saffron and scarlet. We returned to a lodge lit by Around noon we reached a plateau edged
hundreds of flickering candles, all made on site. In the dining room, by long-abandoned cave dwellings. Turning
we heaped our plates high with stuffed eggplant, hummus, and fresh a corner revealed the sandstone façade of Ad
pita, then ate on the patio under the stars with our new English Deir, Petra’s Monastery, standing 160 feet above
friends. Later, my father retired to our room, glad to leave me in such a sandy plaza. Less ornate than the iconic
unexpected, pleasant company. The three of us relaxed on well-worn Treasury, the Monastery is also quieter and
sofas around a fire in the lodge’s common room with our guides, more meditative. That’s partly because it’s
sharing travel stories and asking questions about Bedouin life. shielded from tourists and Bedouin hawkers
94 travelandleisure.com
Guest tents at the Discovery Bedu Camp,
in Wadi Rum, a protected area in southern
Jordan. At the eco-conscious property,
experiences range from sandboarding dunes
to riding camels. SYRIA IRAQ
W ES T
BANK
Jerash JORDAN
Amman
travelandleisure.com 95
Hawaii,
96 travelandleisure.com
,
The island of Molokai
is a point of departure
for UnCruise
Adventures’ seven-
night tour of four
Hawaiian islands.
Opposite: Diving from
the top deck of the
Safari Explorer, a
36-passenger ship in
UnCruise’s fleet.
98 travelandleisure.com
Clockwise from left:
The Safari Explorer
off the western
coast of the island
of Hawaii; a pod of
spinner dolphins
between Maui and
Hawaii; kayaking off
the coast of
Kailua-Kona.
so loudly
Hawaiian descent,
blows a conch shell to
welcome travelers;
a hike overlooking the
Puu Pehe sea stack off
hear it.
100 travelandleisure.com
we could see it end in a wall of mountains and the
thread of a waterfall.
Polynesians reputedly first landed in Hawaii at this MOLOKAI
river mouth—a fire pit in the valley dates from A.D. 600. Kaunakakai
Halawa Valley
At a shelter near the river, Anakala Pilipo Solatorio, a farmer Lahaina MAUI
in his seventies who is a direct descendant of those first L ANAI UnCruise itinerary
settlers, blew the conch shell of welcome. Pilipo and his son (runs both ways)
M Sumatra unfolded at a
rambling hotel on the shore
of Lake Toba, eight hours
southeast of Bukit Lawang. At 436
square miles—about the size of Los
the entire human species—and
may have made us who we are today.
According to the “Toba catastrophe
theory,” originally posited by the
science writer Ann Gibbons, the blast
Angeles—Lake Toba is the largest plunged the earth into a six-year
volcanic lake in the world, and maybe winter, leaving as few as 3,000 people
the nicest. The water is sparkling and alive on the planet. Those survivors
calm. Soft green mountains rise all were the most resourceful of our
around it. The hotel, Carolina kind, and they passed on those
Cottages, is a collection of bungalows qualities to their descendants, our
with sharply peaked roofs and ancestors, planting the seeds of
ornately carved wooden façades, a human civilization.
tribute to the traditional building style It was perhaps because of Toba that
of the local people. A breeze blew onto our ancestors learned to make fire,
the hotel veranda, ruling the edges and grow crops, and cure diseases,
of the batik tablecloths. On the and come up with clever theories
beaches, the Coke came in glass bottles about human civilization. And it was
AWESOME ACTIVITIES and the coconuts came with straws. perhaps because of Toba that we
At the center of the lake lies learned to clear forests, and developed
Samosir Island, the heartland of the a habit of wiping other species off the
Batak, an indigenous group known for face of the earth.
their love of singing. One night, we As the ferry pulled into the dock,
UNEXPECTED DELIGHTS
partied with a crowd of Batak I said goodbye to the mapmaker and
........................................................
schoolteachers on their summer hauled my bags to the driver waiting
break. They fed us boiled eggs with onshore. Then we began the journey
chili paste and passed out cups of back to Medan, with its truck-
RESORT FEES FREE herbal liquor and brought out a guitar clogged streets, passing palm
and sang for us and begged us to dance plantations where there used to be
with them and laughed hysterically forest. With luck, you’ll get to visit
when we did. Even Stefan, who has one of the forests that remain. If
been everywhere and isn’t easily you do, keep your eyes raised to the
impressed, conceded that one of the treetops. You might see someone
guests had a solid case when he called you used to know.
Lake Toba “heaven on this earth.”
On my way back to Medan, as I Saki Knafo writes for the New York
boarded a ferry headed across the Times, the Atlantic, and GQ.
Content in this issue was produced with assistance from Hotel Bothwell; Katy Trail Bed &
Breakfast; Natural Selection, Rainforest Expeditions; Torngat Mountains National Park; UnCruise
Contact Your Preferred Travel Agent Adventures; and Wild Frontiers.
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The following morning we arrived Choose Jack
on the western side of the Big Island.
We anchored in the lee of the dormant
volcanoes Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa,
each of which rises more than 13,000
feet. The guides broke out the kayaks,
and we paddled along lava cliffs and
through a lava arch. We saw pale
limpets clinging to the black rock.
White tropic birds, with long, trailing
(Hawaii, continued from page 101) tails, flew out of their nests on the
cliffs. Debbie and Lyn are old hands at
to arch herself to keep from touching kayaking, and they paddled in perfect
it. The turtle took a breath and sync, looking like a winged creature.
sailed slowly back to its bed. I tried to stand up and fell in. Back
I took a breath myself and dove at the ship, we inhaled a lunch of loco
down clumsily. Under the concrete moco, an unlikely stack of sticky rice,
slab, a five-foot-long whitetip reef beef, and gravy topped with a fried
shark idled and watched me. It egg. Afterward, Dai Mar dropped the
seemed that the aloha spirit extended gangplanks off the high decks and
to the ocean, because we greeted each some of us tried 20-foot backflips.
other and happily went our own ways. On the evening of our last full day,
Dai Mar told us to take a couple as dusk fell off the town of Kailua-
of hours of shore leave, just when we Kona, we tugged on wet suits and
needed it. Kim and I strolled hand skiffed close to shore. Kim and I
in hand through the shops of Lahaina jumped into the inky water and swam
and bought—what else?—Hawaiian to a surfboard that had a dive light
shirts and mother-of-pearl earrings. shining from its bottom. Six of us
clung to one board, and Mark, one of
O
ne of the unique things about our chefs, flippered us toward the
UnCruise is its open-bridge glow of submerged floodlights. These
policy. Passengers can wander lights rested on the ocean floor, and
up at any time and sit with the scuba divers sat around them as if at
captain or the oicers and learn so many campfires. Their plumes of
about the route. If the oicers bubbles rose in eerie columns.
need privacy, they shut the door. Schools of silver flagtails drifted in
At daybreak on the fifth day the beams that shone down from the GOURMET GRUB
I grabbed a mug of Kona coffee from surfboards. We could hear the clicks
the lounge and climbed to the bridge. of a pair of huge bottlenose dolphins
The famous northeast trade winds as they coasted through the murk.
had kicked up, and the ship was And then I saw why we were all
pounding through a quartering swell there. The lights, both on the boards SWEET SUITES
in the Alalakeiki Channel between and on the seabed, attract plankton,
Maui and the tiny, uninhabited island which manta rays eat like popcorn.
of Kahoolawe. Captain Winston Warr Something caught my eye, and
was at the wheel. We were heading I looked back at one of the flood lamps
southeast and could see the volcanic down in the rocks. I saw wings that INFINITE LIBATIONS
crater of Molokini ahead. The dark were much longer than any bird’s, but
water of the channel was whipped to moved just as fluidly. A flash of pale
whitecaps. “Humpback at one underneath. They reminded me of the
o’clock,” the captain said. A half-mile undulating arms of the hula dancers,
off our starboard bow, a cloud of mist whose motions are sometimes
blew off the waves. Then another. The inspired by the creatures of the ocean.
whale was running fast on the same The manta ray must have been 10
heading. And then, out of the chop, feet across. It sailed over the light and
it breached. A massive black missile blotted it out, then vanished in a sea
leaped and crashed down, sending as black and inscrutable as sleep.
up an explosion of white.
“That’s something that never gets Peter Heller is the author of the novels Contact Your Preferred Travel Agent
old,” the captain said. The Dog Stars and Celine.
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Choose Jack As we bounced around through
the waves, every new vista brought
a fresh astonishment, from the shock
of sudden color on a mossy hillside
to the tranquility of mist curling
through the opalescent bays. The
mountains seemed as imposing and
impressive as cathedrals of stone. In
places, erosion had caused some of
them to shatter apart into piles of
(Torngat Mountains, continued from page 80) scree deposits, which in turn had
gradually formed rivulets of what
Inuit livelihoods have changed look like crushed Oreo cookies. We
radically over the past half-century. saw Mount Razorback, ridged with
Hunting and fishing are still a way of jagged points, and Blow Me Down
life, but these days, Merkuratsuk and Mountain. “The name describes it, I’d
the Jararuses live in Nain year-round, say,” Merkuratsuk offered. “It’s windy
traveling to the Torngats for seasonal up there. People have gotten blown
work. John Jararuse spoke to us of the off mountaintops here and died.”
painful realities he had experienced
during the resettlements, being ON OUR LAST NIGHT, two
separated from his home and loved Inuit throat singers joined us
ones. But all the Inuit I met on this around the campfire, chanting in
trip shared a sense of optimism and transcendental tones. In the past,
relief that this place has been missionaries forbade these songs,
returned to its rightful custodians. branding them demonic. Fortunately,
“Now that this is a national park, it the tradition survived, and anyone
will be safe for other generations,” hearing the singers today can’t
Paul Jararuse said. help being transfixed by the way
As we navigated the coastline, they emulate the sound of wind
our guides talked about the old ways, coursing past rocks or water
how their families had thrived on this rushing along a riverbed.
land, of their own happy childhoods As they sang, the northern lights
here. They’d lived in the Torngats appeared overhead, bright green
year-round, spending winter in igloos vectors arcing through the firmament
and sod houses at first and, later on, like gigantic flashlights. As we stood
PRISTINE POOLS in homes they’d built in a now- there next to the bonfire, our heads
abandoned community named craned upward, it felt like something,
Hebron. To survive in such an or someone, was shining immense
extreme climate (it’s so cold that, tunnels of light through the sky in
SERENE SPAS in places, the ground stays frozen all order to survey its territory.
................................................... year) they relied on skills developed “How can you not believe in spirits
by their ancestors centuries earlier. in a place like this?” asked Evie Mark,
These included being able to identify a throat singer and cultural liaison
the medicinal properties of an array for the park. “I sing to them all the
ROOM SERVICE of fantastical-sounding indigenous time—to the spirit of the elements,
plants. Their pharmacopoeia included of the mountains, of the rivers.”
a medicinal cottony grass called These elements are perhaps at
suputaujak, whose fluffy white seeds their most breathtaking in the
can be inserted into ear canals to help corridor of cliffs rising above Tallek
with earaches or used to staunch a Arm, off Nachvak jord. We were
newborn’s bleeding navel. They’d lucky enough to take a helicopter
chew a tundra flower called the river ride to that part of the park and,
beauty to prevent nosebleeds and mix from above, got a sense of how
black crowberries with fish roe and the minerals leaching out of the
seal blubber to make suvalik, a kind mountains affect the surrounding
of Inuit ice cream. As kids, they’d rub waters. Some rivers were deep
the leaves of northern bunchberry black, while other bodies of water
Contact Your Preferred Travel Agent plants on their faces and giggle at the shimmered with iridescent tones
tickling sensations they caused. ranging from magenta to jade. Near
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Little Ramah Bay, we spotted a lake Choose Jack
the pale blue of milky sapphires.
On my final afternoon, I joined
a group of the staff on a fishing
excursion. After casting for a
while, I sat down on the shore next
to Andrew Andersen, the park’s half-
Inuit, half-Australian visitor-
experience coordinator. “Guests
want to hike and see polar bears and
icebergs—all that’s super, but we also (Jordan, continued from page 95)
like it when visitors want to engage
with us Inuit,” he told me. “A lot of the warmth of our guest tent to enjoy
people come here without knowing a communal dinner. The chef had
that this culture—our culture—is prepared a main course of chicken,
here. Many of them say that coming lamb, and vegetables, heated in a
here changed their life, that it made barrel under the sand by fragrant,
them think in different ways.” smoldering olive-wood coals. We ate
Andersen’s father, William like emirs alongside the only other
Andersen III, was the president guests, a couple from Boston.
of the Labrador Inuit Association Some time into the meal, we
during the nineties and early aughts, realized it was Thanksgiving. As if
and he played a key role in the talks we didn’t have enough to be grateful
that led to the national park status for already, we emerged from the
for Torngats. Andersen told me how main tent to find that the clouds had
his father spoke of this region as the parted, exposing an infinite network
Inuit gift to the rest of Canada and, of constellations. After sharing
by extension, the rest of the world. For this extraordinary evening, we four
travelers lucky enough to come here, Americans so far from home
that gift brings with it the chance to wished one another a good night,
see this place as the Inuit do: as a land and returned to our tents. After
alive with elemental forces. my father showed me the day’s
When I mentioned this to photographs, I picked up Lawrence’s
Andersen, he said that the Seven Pillars of Wisdom to read
relationship goes both ways. “Seeing once more about his adventures in
this place the way you see it—the Wadi Rum and to contemplate how OUTDOOR FUN
way newcomers react to things they had foreshadowed my own.
we’re familiar with—is also a gift for The following day, as we drove
us, because it constantly allows us to north to Amman, I thought of my
see our homeland through fresh eyes new Bedouin friends at Feynan.
and to be reminded of how special In the days since we had left those GOOD VIBES
this place is,” he said. “Like all true parched lowlands, rain had fallen, a
gifts, it benefits the giver as much signal of hope for their community.
as the receiver.”
Zander Abranowicz is a writer based
Adam Leith Gollner is author of The in New York City. William Abranowicz CAMP JACK
Book of Immortality and is a frequent is a longtime contributing
contributor to Travel + Leisure. photographer to Travel + Leisure.
Travel + Leisure (ISSN 0041-2007). July 2018, Vol. 48, No. 7. Published monthly 12 times a year by Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, a subsidiary of Time Inc. Time
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