TOOL CHEST

TOOL chests are still in constant demand: if not frequently, at least steadily. It is
curious, too, that no matter what the woodworker may subsequently execute,
nothing affords him greater pleasure than the making of a really good tool chest for
his own use. The one shown here makes no claim to being a work of art. Its two
merits are its all-round usefulness and its lasting strength.

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 TOOL CHEST
From Fig. 1 (and more particularly from the sectional elevation, Fig. 2) it will be
seen that there are three drawers, or tills (A, B, G), which slide forwards and
backwards on runners. The top drawer has a hinged lid (D). The saw till (E) slides
up and down inside the front of chest, At Fig. 2 it is shown slightly raised.

The carcase may be of clean white deal. Yellow pine would of preferable, but the
price may be considered prohibitive. The fittings of the original chest described
were of mahogany, the inside of the lid being veneered. Plain hardwood used for
the fittings must be of the best quality. The over-all measurements suggested are
about 3 ft. long by 1 ft. 9 ins. wide, and about 1 ft. 10 ins. high to top of lid. These
sizes are approximate, and, after the worker determines his carcase length, width
and height, the other parts can be made accordingly.

For the front and back two pieces (approximately 3 ft. by 1 ft. 8 ins., and 3/4 in.
thick) will be jointed up to obtain the width. For the ends two pieces about 1 ft. 9
ins. by 1 ft. 8 ins. (also 3/4 in. thick) are required. These four sides, after squaring
up, are dovetailed together, the dovetail pins being about 2-1/2 ins. apart. Before
glueing, trench both ends to take a length of stuff 4 ins. by 1/2 in. (F, Fig. 2). This
forms compartment G (Fig. 2) for moulding and beading planes.

The bottom, which will be screwed on, is of 3/4 in. tongued and grooved boards,
the boards running from back to front of the chest (not lengthways). Level the
edges and mitre and sprig on the bottom plinth (H), 4-1/2 ins. high, with a 1/2 in.
ovolo moulding. The top plinth (J), 2-1/2 ins. wide, can be similarly fixed, keeping
it down 1/2 in. from top edge.

Around the top edge of chest it is wise to glue and sprig a mahogany slip, 3/4 in.
by 1/2 in., mitred at the corners Level it inside and outside. A good lock will
complete the carcase.

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 TOOL CHEST

FITTINGS — These may of course be varied to suit individual requirements, but

the suggestions here apply to the average kit. Reference has been made to the
compartment G (Fig. 2) for moulding planes. Alongside this is a larger
compartment (K) for bench planes. For covering these compartments a sliding
board is provided (L, Fig. 2). This board will be 10 ins. wide by 1/2 in. thick, and
should be clamped at both ends to prevent twisting. When drawn to the front of the
chest it covers the compartment K. To provide a bottom runner for this sliding

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 TOOL CHEST
board, two pieces (preferably of mahogany) in. square are glued and sprigged to
the ends (see M, Fig. 3). These, standing 9 ins. from the bottom, are stopped 2 ins.
from the front of chest to allow for the rising saw till (E).
The three drawers (or tills) are seen in Fig. 2 and enlarged in Fig. 3. For the bottom
runners of the third till (C) two pieces 1-1/2 ins. by 1/2 in. are required (N, Fig. 3).
They are screwed to the edges of two pieces 3-1/2 ins. by 7/8 in., which in turn are
screwed to the ends of chest above the sliding board, allowing the latter freedom to
slide to and fro. Above these, two pieces 3 ins. by 5/8 in. are similarly fastened.
Fig. 3 makes this clear. All the runners must stop exactly 2 ins. from front of chest
to allow the saw till to be inserted.

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 TOOL CHEST
THE TILLS (Fig. 3) are 8 ins. wide and respectively 2-1/2 ins., 3 ins. and 3-1/2
ins. deep, dovetailed together, the lap-dovetail being used on the fronts. For the
fronts 1/2 in. mahogany is an advantage; the sides, backs and bottoms may be of
good white deal, finishing at 3/8 in. The bottoms are not grooved in; the till fronts
are rebated and the bottoms screwed on, the screws being countersunk. The upper
till may have a 3/8 in. or 1/2 in. mahogany top, hinged to open as a lid. The top till
may be divided into four equal compartments, the second into three and the bottom
one into two.

SAW TILL (see E, Fig. 2). — This is really a shallow tray (2 ins. deep, outside
measurement) fitted vertically. It runs the entire length (inside), but is 1/2 in. less
than the height of the chest. In Fig. 2 the till is shown slightly raised. In it are hung,
by means of slots and turn-buttons. the hand, tenon and dovetail saws and the large
square. The top should be of mahogany, 3/4 in. net, the remainder being of white
deal. The back may be grooved in. The drawer runners hold the saw till in position.

LID — If to be veneered inside as suggested, the lid should be of good yellow

pine, free from knots, 7/8 in. thick net (deal is of too resinous a nature to take
kindly to veneer). It should be clamped at both ends to prevent twisting, and then
squared up to about 1/16 in. larger than the chest all round, to allow for subsequent
fitting. It is now toothed on the inside, and a piece of curly Spanish mahogany
veneer laid to within about 2-3/4 ins. from the edges. When dry, the veneer can be
cut all round with the cutting gauge set to 3 ins., and the waste removed. Next,
with the compass set to 2-1/2 ins., mark off the comers, cut with a sharp penknife,
and remove the veneer; this can easily be done with a chisel after the application of
a hot smoothing-iron. The margin is of walnut veneer, crossbanded, i.e., the grain
running the short way, butted up against the mahogany veneer; the comer pieces
are made in two mitres. If preferred, the comers may be left square, and the margin
simply mitred.

When dry, the veneers can be cleaned off, and the lid properly fitted; it is then
hung with three strong brass butt-hinges. A rim is mitred round the edge of lid to
shut down on the top plinth; the joint may be broken by a 1/8 in. bead.

It only remains to have the inside of the lid and all mahogany parts french
polished, and the white wood stained mahogany colour. Small knobs can be fitted
to the three drawers and saw-till.

— The Woodworker, 1936