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IMPORTANT: Apparently there are several distinct variations of the RR501, with very different circuitry. I discovered this
while attempting to repair my father’s RR501 using Mitch Orysh’s RR501 schematic, and discovering that very little on
that schematic matched the RR501 sitting in front of me. I wound up having to draw my own schematic by hand. Thanks to
Mitch Orysh making his version of the RR501 schematic available, i was able to take his, modify it to match my father’s
RR501, and post it here.
To determine if your RR501 matches mine, Mitch Orysh’s, or neither, check the following:
If there are more than four or fewer than three, you have a variant which is currently undocumented.
There’s a lot going on inside an RR501: R.F. reception at 310MHz, PLC reception and generation at 120kHz, PLC signal relaying, and
a local appliance module latching relay to control. As such, there are several things to repair and adjust.
1. Unplug the transceiver and remove the two screws holding the cover together. Remove the PCB from the covers.
2. Inspect the unit for visibly damaged parts. In the failure i found, the PCB will show signs of overheating near the power supply
components, otherwise no damage will be visible. Replace any visually damaged parts and retest before proceeding. (There is
nothing to be done about the overheated PCB itself).
3. Locate a pair of large electrolytic capacitors along one edge. Value should be close to 1000µF at 25V. Replace them with a pair of
the same value (slightly higher voltage and capacitance O.K. Try to maintain a match between the two). Carefully observe capacitor
polarity!
4. Dig through your surplus parts for some washers and rubber grommets to hold the PCB securely against the front cover, using the
original screw(s). Reinstall the PCB into the front cover, ensuring that the button and switches are correctly positioned.
5. Using a short length of extension cord, plug in the transceiver, and retest it.
6. If it works, disconnect power and reassemble (or leave as-is for alignment) - you’re done. If not, further conventional
troubleshooting will be required.
It is very common for the main electrolytic filter capacitors in the power supplies of most electronic equipment to fail. It seems
especially common in X-10 devices, given the high A.C. ripple, warm temperatures, and other demanding conditions the capacitors must
endure. When in doubt, replacing any large (physically and value-wise) electrolytic capacitors (esp. 470µF or larger) may often cure
problems.
What has happened in this case is that both the positive and negative power supply main filter capacitors have lost most of their
capacitance. The power supply voltages have dropped, and have a huge A.C. component across them. Here is what i measured:
Before After
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Positive supply ≈+13VDC with ≈4Vp-p ripple +18.9VDC with .135VACavg/.44Vp-p ripple
Negative supply ≈-13VDC with ≈4Vp-p ripple -19.5VDC with .11VACavg/.4Vp-p ripple
Peak-to-peak values were read off an oscilloscope screen. D.C. and Average A.C. values were from a Fluke 77 multimeter.
RT504 Alignment
There are no adjustable components in a stock RT504.
RR501 Alignment
To ensure successful alignment, please be sure to read important information common to all X-10 alignment procedures before
proceeding.
1. Unplug the transceiver and remove the two screws holding the cover together. Remove the back cover (prong side).
2. Dig through your surplus parts for some washers and rubber grommets to hold the PCB securely against the front cover, using the
original screw(s). While it should not matter, i am not sure how the RR501 would behave with both unit code switch pins floating.
3. Find a short length of extension cord to use to power up the RR501 in the following steps while still allowing access to the
adjustments points.
R.F. Adjustment
1. Locate the proper alignment tool to move the slug in the R.F. can without damage.
Note: adjustment is highly influenced by proximity effects. Use a long, good quality, properly fitting, nonmetallic alignment tool. Keep all
body parts as far away from RR501 as possible. Monitor oscilloscope as you move to ensure there are no proximity effects affecting the
adjustment.
2. Connect 10X oscilloscope probe to collector of TR3 (i find the lead of C10 closest to the power relay to be convenient). Probe
ground goes to circuit common, most conveniently the A.C. Hot prong.
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3. Position the rear cover rotated in such a way that the antenna is as close to its normal position near the R.F. plate as possible, yet the
adjustment is accessible.
4. Connect RR501 to isolation transformer. Power up.
5. With oscilloscope set for .1V/div.X10=1V/div. actual, and 2ms/div. sweep, one
should see a noisy line (random noise) with a couple of volts positive D.C. offset:
6. Press and hold any button on your working, reference RT504. I use Dim.
7. One should see the usual X-10 pulse train riding on the noise:
8. Adjust for maximum response on a weak signal. While depressing an RT504 button and monitoring the oscilloscope, move the
RT504 around, seeking R.F. null spots. Alternatively, insert the running RT504 in an empty metal coffee can (or similar), and move
the RT504 and can around until a weak, yet visible signal is generated:
9. Verify that the adjustment is still optimal when the alignment tool and your body are far removed from the RR501.
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Note: Do not attempt to test R.F. range with the oscilloscope attached. The ’scope sufficiently loads the circuit and/or distorts the R.F.
pattern that range tests will be disappointing and meaningless.
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6. Inspect waveform. If there is clipping, reduce the amplitude of the signal from the controller until the displayed waveform is
sinusoidal.
7. Adjust L1 for maximum 120kHz signal amplitude. This is likely to be a broad, “low-Q” peak. If clipping occurs, further attenuate
reference controller signal and continue adjustment.
8. Unplug/disconnect all.
9. Reassemble RR501 and test.
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