SSPJI02: Ethernet Cable Tester

Salvage Server Project 'Junk Ideas' 2:

Ethernet Cable Tester
Produced by the Free Range Salvage Server Project, November 2003
http://www.fraw.org.uk/ssp/

Making Ethernet cables is easy, when you have the tool to crimp the
connectors. But even then, you can't always be sure that the connector has
been properly connected to the cable. Commercial network cable testers can
cost £60 or more. Here's an idea for a simple cable tester that cost under £20 if
you, or someone handy with a soldering iron, makes it from scratch.

The theory of the project
This project is a simple continuity tester – but paralleled
eight times to check each of the wires in the Ethernet
cable. It's just a battery and a bulb (well, light emitting
diode – LED) that shows you have a good connection on
your connector.
It would be very easy to produce the sort of professional
cable testers that cost £60 to £80. But we've designed a
simple project that can be put together with minimal effort.
To save on cost you could build this completely from
scrap. The only problem that you're likely to have is finding
the RJ-45 sockets to plug you cable into. They're actually
difficult to buy as single sockets. So you'd have to take
apart some old network cards, or a broken hub, to get hold
of them. Then you have to find a box to put all the parts in.
So instead we've solved these two problems in one by
using a double network wall socket. You can sometimes
find these in junk sales. Otherwise you can buy them.
The other four significant parts are:
A set of 8 dual in parallel – or DIP – switches. These
can be recovered from old computer equipment. They're
especially common on old ISA PC cards because they
are used to configure the card. We've stuck ours into a
16-pin dual in line – or DIL – socket. This not only
ensures we don't damage the switches when soldering,
but it also means we could reuse the DIL switches if we
ever needed some for another project.
A set of LEDs to indicate whether the wire in the cable
works when under test. We could have used old LEDs,
but instead we bought some new low power LEDs to cut
down on battery usage. Old LEDs will do OK – although
it helps if they are the same colour and size!
A single in line array – or SIL – of resistors. These
regulate the voltage in each cable to the correct value to
light the LEDs. These can be difficult to get hold of for a
particular resistance value, but you often find SILs of
random value on old computer motherboards and PC
cards. In this case you'll have to measure the resistance
of the SIL to see whether it's suitable for the project.
A battery. You could use any old 9 volt, PP3 battery.
But we've used a rechargeable battery. In fact an old
rechargeable that's getting a little past it's best, and
doesn't hold charge well, but it's OK for this project.
There's a circuit diagram for the unit on the next page.
The only technical part of this project is setting the value of
the SIL resistors. You have to calculate this value, in
Ohms, using:
(battery voltage – LED forward voltage) x 1000
LED forward current
In this case we've used special low current LEDs. So the
resistor value is [(9V – 2.5V) x 1000] / 2mA, equals 3,250

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 SSPJI02: Ethernet Cable Tester

As we're using an
Ethernet wall socket
you also need an IDC
insertion tool – a
small plastic prod
that's usually used to
push wires into the
connectors. Other-
wise you'll struggle to
get good connection
on the socket.
Finally, you'll need a
drill bit the same size
as your LEDs; a
couple of small bolts
to fit the stripboard
onto the case; a
Circuit diagram for tester unit
battery clip; a deep,
46mm back box
Ohms. The nearest preferred value SIL above this is 3,900 (short ones are no good for this job) to fit the Ethernet
Ohms, or 3.9k. So we use this value of SIL. If you reuse socket to; and a Stanley knife and fret saw to cut the case.
old LEDs, you can assume that they have a forward
current of around 25mA, and a forward voltage of around
2.25V, and calculate accordingly.
The other issue with LEDs is that they can only be used
one way round. The wire connected to the battery positive
– the anode – is usually the longest leg on a new LED. The
wire connected to battery negative – the cathode – is
usually marked by a small flat area on the small flange that
runs around the base of the LED body. If in doubt, get a
2.2k resistor (or there abouts) and a 9V battery, connect
the resistor to battery positive, and then connect your
LEDs between the resistor and battery negative. When the
LED is the right way around, and assuming the LED works
OK, then it will light. You can then mark the anode (wire
connected to the resistor) for later reference.
The other thing we need is hook-up wire. Use any old Beginning construction
lightweight wire. But for simplicity we used some old We begin by cutting two pieces of stripboard to the right
Ethernet cable. It's not because we need the Ethernet size. One for the switches, which is fifteen strips by six
cable. It's just so that we have the standard colour-coded holes, and one for the
wires to ensure we fix the right wires to the right terminals. LEDs, which is eleven
You'll need two 6”/15cm lengths of Ethernet cable. strips by four holes. If
We mount the components on stripboard or veroboard. you have the spare
Stripboard has copper strips with holes punched every board, it's useful to
0.1”/2.54mm. To mount the components on the board you make them a little
need a soldering iron and some solder (with a flux core to larger to make then
make the solder easier to use). If you've never used a easier to handle during
soldering iron before you should practice first by soldering construction, and then
some lengths of wire to the stripboard. The important thing cut them down before
is to get small, neat blobs of solder on the board, and to putting them inside the
ensure that you don't bridge between the copper strips. case.

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 SSPJI02: Ethernet Cable Tester
You have to cut some
strips on board. On the
switch board you cut
eight strips in the
middle at the third hole
in from one side. On
the LED board, you cut
eight strips in the
middle at the second
hold in from one side.
The switch board is
mounted to the case,
so you need to drill a
hole at each end to fit
your bolts through.
Next we mount the DIL
socket and SIL array
on the switch
board. First
place the DIL
socket so that it
straddles the
cut strips, with
the legs of the
socket on the
second hole
from the edge.
If you bend the legs in slightly when you've pushed it into
the board it'll stop the socket from falling out. Then you
mount the SIL array alongside the socket in the first line of
holes. Make sure that the ninth pin of the SIL array with the
large dot is on the strip in front of the DIL socket – the
other eight pins should then line up with the eight legs of
the DIL socket. Then solder everything to the board (see
above, middle).
Next we insert the LEDs into the LED board. The reason or
using 3mm LEDs is that they line up better in a small
space. But the 3mm wide LEDs still have problems on
stripboard where the holes are 2.54mm apart.
So, begin by inserting the first and the last LEDs. Make
sure that the long leg – the anode – is facing the centre of
the board, not the edge. Then slide a 6mm wide strip of
Copyleft 2003, The Free Range Network
card in between the legs (see above). This helps ensure
that the LEDs all line up to the correct height – it also
ensures that there's enough slack in the legs to fit them
trough a small hole in the case. Then inset the six other
LEDs so that they all line up along the card. Finally,
because they are spread apart, the LEDs at the edge don't
point straight up. So get some point-nosed pliers and
tweak them straight (see above right).
Now you can
solder in the
LEDs. Problem
is, the won't
stand up. So put
then between
the jaws of the
point-nosed
pliers and they'll
stand up
enough to
solder them.
We have to connect the cathodes of the LEDs together t
couple them to the negative of the battery. We could wire
them together – but it's fiddly. So instead just bridge across
the tracks of the stripboard as you solder each cathode.
Finally, on the last LED, bridge the solder onto the empty
track. This will become the track that we solder the
negative (black) wire of the battery clip to.
Finally, crop off all the LED legs down to he solder joints,
and remove the card (see below – note the bridging of the
solder on the cathodes in the left picture).
Now we have to work on the wire connections. Remove
the wires from each of the two 15cm lengths of Ethernet
cable – if you split one end, they're loose enough to just
pull out. Keep the two set of wires separate because you
need to keep this
colour coding. It
also helps if you
unravel the twisted
pairs of wires.
Begin by stripping
about 6mm of
insulation from
page 3 of 8
 SSPJI02: Ethernet Cable Tester

each end of each wire. If the wire isn't solid, but made up the battery clip to the end pin of the SIL array on the switch
of many small wires, you have to twist the wire to make a board – the pin with the big spot above it. That completes
solid end to push through the holes of the stripboard. the soldering.
Take one set of wires and begin poking them through the
Unit assembly
holes by each LED's anode. They must be inserted in a
specific order. With the LEDs facing up, the space for the Difficult work's finished – now we begin to assemble and
wires is the bottom of the LED board. The LED to the left is test the unit.
number 1, and the one on the right is number 8. Insert the To begin,
wires in the following order: we test the
wires to
LED No. Wire colour LED No. Wire colour
make sure,
1 Orange/white 5 Blue/white
before we
2 Solid orange 6 Solid green
do anything
3 Green/white 7 Solid brown
else, that
4 Solid blue 8 Brown/white
the circuits
work OK.
As you insert
Insert the
each wire pull
DIP
tight and then
switches into the DIL socket, making sure that the 'number
bend the wire
1' switch is on the left. Connect a battery to the battery clip.
around the side
Then make sure that all the DIP switches are set to 'off'.
of the board.
Then carefully Using the wiring table above, switch on one of the DIP
solder the wire, switches, starting at one, and make sure that the correct
and cut off the LED lights when you connect the same colour wires from
excess down to the switch board and the LED board. If the correct LED
the solder joint. doesn't light, or a different one lights, check your wiring.
Again, you can When the circuit check is complete we install the two
hold the LEDs boards on the rear of the network socket (see next page).
in the jaws of Begin by placing the boards on the rear of the socket.
the pliers to Make sure that they fit, and if not, trim them slightly. You'll
keep them also have to make sure that the wires can be channelled
upright (right). so that the board can fit neatly against the surface.
When this is From the edge of the face, measure the position of the DIP
complete we switches. Then measure the position of the LEDs. You
repeat the same process with the switch board. With the now plot these positions on the front of the face. You'll also
DIL socket facing up, the SIL array is at the top of the have to measure the position of each LED in order to drill
board. The switch to the left is number 1, and the one on the hole for it to fit into.
the right is number 8. Insert the wires in the same colour
order as for the LED board. Now you have to drill the hole for each LED. Then drill the
holes for each of the fixing bolts on the switch board. Then
Finally, solder the black wire of the battery clip to the end drill a hole at each corner of the area where the DIP
of the switches will fit through the face. Now you have to get a
solder fret saw and cut out a square between the four DIP switch
bridge holes to give a neat square. You can trim the hole using a
on the sharp knife. Fit the switch board into place, and fix the
LED bolts through the face and board to keep it there.
board.
Then Fitting the LEDs is a little more difficult. They fit in place
solder because they are tight in their hole. By experimentation we
the red found that drilling holes for each LED, and then cutting this
wire of into a long slot with a sharp knife, gave the best fit. The
LEDs are able to shift and fit into the holes because of the

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 SSPJI02: Ethernet Cable Tester

6mm of space created by the piece of card we used when

soldering.
Next we insert the wires into the connector blocks. To do
this we use a small 'IDC insertion tool'. This has a small
plastic notch to push the wire into the connectors, and a
pair of flaps in front of it to hold the wire straight whilst you
align with the IDC connector (see below).

We take one of the two blocks to be the 'straight' socket

(the lower one in the picture), and one to be the 'crossed'
socket. These blocks are colour coded to allow easier
insertion of the wires. This is made a little more complex
as some have to options (we used the 'B' option).
Most importantly, the wires of the switch board must be
inserted into the straight block, and the wires of the LED
board must be inserted into the crossed block. We insert
into each block in the following order:
LED Wire colour 'Straight' 'Crossed'
1 Orange/white Orange/white Orange/white
2 Solid orange Solid orange Solid orange
3 Green/white Green/white Green/white
4 Solid blue Solid blue Blue/white
5 Blue/white Blue/white Solid blue
6 Solid green Solid green Solid green
7 Solid brown Solid brown Brown/white
8 Brown/white Brown/white Solid brown
Having inserted the wires into the first block, we check that
they are correctly set on the second block using an
Ethernet cable that we know to be working properly.
Connect the cable between the two sockets. Set all the
DIP switches to 'off'. Then, from one to eight, set that
switch to on. Touch the stripped end of the colour coded
wire onto the appropriate IDC connector. If it is correctly
wired, the correct LED will light, corresponding to the DIP
switch number (see table for order – see picture below for
an example using switch no.1).

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 SSPJI02: Ethernet Cable Tester

Continuity fault – the crimping process doesn't make a

good electrical connection between the wire and
connector.
Wiring fault – wires are inserted in the wrong order.
Using the DIP switches we can check for both of these
faults. To begin, the unit is set so that all switches are off –
to check that all LEDs are off (below left).
If the right LED does not light, try the other connectors to
see if you have a connection problem. If all is correct,
insert the wire using
the IDC insertion tool.
Then you can crop the
wire to the right length
using some wire
cutters.
When you finish you can switch all the LEDs on one by To test the unit set the switches to on and check that all
one to make sure your circuits don't short and cause other the LEDs light (above, right). The purpose of this is to
LEDs to light (see picture top of next page). Then mark the check that the unit functions correctly. You don't have to
front panel to say which socket is the 'straight' socket and do this every time, but if you get an error it's a good idea to
which is the 'crossed' socket – this is important for testing check that it's not the unit that's faulty. You could also do a
different types of cable (this is outlined later). test by switching each DIP switch on one at a time to make
Finally, we sure that only the corresponding LED lights.
bundle the For a normal 'straight' Ethernet cable, linking a computer to
wires to make a hub, to test the lines are
the final correctly wired and that
assembly look there is a good electrical
neat and tidy. circuit we set switches 1,
Then screw the 2, 3 and 6 to on. If we
front plate of insert a cable, the
the case to the corresponding LEDs
back box. On should light (see right).
the unit we used, the front place wasn't symmetrical. This
meant that the battery could be neatly accommodated on For a 'crossed' Ethernet cable, used to link two computers
one side of the case. So, put the battery on the correct directly without a hub you get exactly the same pattern. It's
side, close up and tighten the screws. The unit is now important that to test crossed cables that the 'straight' end
finished. is inserted in the 'straight' socket, and the other end must
be in the 'crossed' socket (see wiring diagram at the end of
this section to find which is which). If you turn all the DIP
switches off, then switch on DIP switch no.1, LED no.3
lights. Switch on no.2, LED no.6 lights. Switch on no.3,
LED no.1 lights, and switch on no.6, and LED no.2 lights.
Even if you haven't checked the wiring of the sockets, on a
good cable the difference between the two sequences will
tell you whether you're dealing with a straight or crossed
cable.
Using the unit to test cables
Finally, for a thorough check that the whole cable works,
It would be simpler to just test the four wires that the you should turn off all the DIP switches and turn them all
Ethernet cable uses for data transfer. But the reason we on one at a time. This ensures that the non-data wires are
test all eight is that we can then check for crossed wiring. also good. For straight cables the LED corresponding to
The box below shows the usual wiring order for an RJ-45 the switch should light. But for crossed cables the order
cable. There are two types of fault that can happen: the LEDs light is 3, 6, 1, 4, 5, 2, 7 and 8.

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 SSPJI02: Ethernet Cable Tester

Cable testing – a quick 'how to' connector – so it doesn't light because the line to which it
is mis-wired is not switched on. To test this you can just
1. If necessary test the unit – switch off all switches to make switch on and off each switch to see which LED lights. For
sure all LEDs are off, insert a good (straight) cable, and example, (below, right) if switch 5 lights LED 6 instead of
then switch on the switches one at a time to make sure
LED 6, it's likely that the connector has been mis-wired.
corresponding LED lights.
2. For testing a cable quickly, make sure that only switches 1,
2, 3 and 6 are switches on.
3. If in doubt, check that the cable is straight/crossed by
holding each connector with the metal contact facing you,
and pointing to the right. On straight cables both
connectors will have the white/orange at the top. On
crossed cables one will have white/orange (the 'straight'
end) and one will have green/white (the 'crossed' end).
4. Insert cable into unit – if you are testing a 'crossed' cable The mis-wiring can also show up when you initially test the
make sure that the 'straight' plug is in the 'straight' socket cable – because although 4 LEDs light, one of them is
and the 'crossed' plug is in the 'crossed' socket. wrong (see below, left). To test this switch on and off each
5. If all's well, LEDs 1, 2, 3
switch to see which LED lights. For example, (below, right)
and 6 will light and no if switch 6 lights LED 5 instead of switch 5, it's likely that
others – see right. the connector has been mis-wired.

6. To check all wires,

switch off all switches,
and then switch them on
in order from 1 to 8. For
straight cables LEDs 1 to 8 will light in sequence. For
crossed cables, lights 3, 6, 1, 4, 5, 2, 7 and 8 will light in
sequence.
7. If you don't get this pattern, the cable has a fault and you Either way, a fault means one thing – you need to cut
need to consult the 'fault finding' section. off one of the connectors and crimp it on again.
If it's a bad connections, cut off one of the connectors and
Fault finding
crimp a new one on. If after repeating the test there's still a
The best check of any fault is to switch each DIP switch on problem, cut off the other connector and try again. If there
and off, one at a time. Depending on whether you have a is still a bad connection then it's a cable fault.
straight or crossed cable, the LEDs will light in a specific If it's a mis-wire, which connector is wrong depends upon
sequence. which way around the connectors are. On straight cables
When the correct LED this doesn't matter, but on crossed cables it does. Crossed
fails to light it is likely that cables must have the straight connector in the straight
you have a bad socket, and the crossed connector in the crossed socket. If
connection – either the this is the case:
cable didn't crimp onto the If the switch on the data line you are testing lights a
connector properly, or a different LED to that required, then it's the connector in
wire in the cable itself is the crossed socket that's likely to be wrong.
faulty. In these cases, assuming you've got switches 1, 2, If the LED on the data line you are testing is lit by
3 and 6 'on' o check the data lines, one (or more) of the another switch, then it's the connector in the straight
LEDs will not light (see right). socket that's likely to be wrong.
In this case, set al switches to 'off'. Then, one at a time, Either way, do a visual check to see which way the
switch them on. A bad connection will show itself as an connectors are wired. When you can identify which
LED that will not light (see below, left). Of course, as we've connector was wrongly wired, cut it off and crimp on a new
only 1, 2, 3 and 6 switches on, it is possible that a data one. They should, depending upon the type of connector
wire has been wired to the wrong pin on the RJ-45 (straight/crossed) look like one of the examples below:

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 SSPJI02: Ethernet Cable Tester

Straight Connector Crossed Connector

Parts List and Project Costs

To buy new from Maplins:
Component Description Source/cost Code Title Cost
RJ-45 socket Double RJ-45 wall socket. Can be found in sales of old network DP29G 90Deg UTP £10.99
scrap, or bought new for around £10 O/Let Dbl
Back box Any back box/patress will do provided Junk shops or local DIY sales. Can be DB40T Sur Patt 46mm £1.49
that it's at least 46mm/1.8” deep bought new for £1 to £2 Sngl
8x LEDs Any matching LEDs – we used low Salvage from old electrical equipment CJ56L 2mA 3mm £1.28
(green) LEDs to reduce battery drain. – especially AV equip. Green LED (8 @ 16p)
DIP switches 8-way DIP switches, single pole single Recover from old computer QY70M Slimline 8W DIL £1.49
throw cards/peripherals Sw
3.9k SIL array 8-way SIL resistor. Recover from old computer N80BC 8Res 9pin Array £0.12
cards/peripherals 3.9k
16-pin DIL Standard 16-pin IC socket. Computer sales, but you may have to BL19V DIL Socket 16 £0.14
socket buy one new pin
PP3 battery PP3 snap on battery clip Recover from any old portable HF28F PP3 Clip £0.29
clip equipment
PP3 9V battery Alkaline will do, but we used a You may have an old NiCd, but you AR46A Duracell PP3 £3.79
rechargeable NiCd could buy an new alkaline 1pk
Hook up wire Two 15cm lengths of eight core (or Could use telephone wire, but we use CW45Y UTP Cat5 Solid £0.39
equivalent)lightweight wire 30cm of Ethernet cable 1m
Small bolts Two small flat headed M3/3mm dia. Recover from any old electrical N55AK M3x25 P Slot £0.99
bolts, around 2cm long, with nuts equipment or other hardware N19AL M3 Hex Nut £0.99
Stripboard 15 strips x 6 holes and 11 strips x 4 Should be able to borrow some from JP47B Stripboard 2939 £2.29
holes stripboard/veroboard anyone who plays with electronics
TOTAL Trash-tech: Around £15 (wall socket, back box and a new PP3 battery) New: £24.25

For Maplin ordering details see http://www.maplin.co.uk/ or phone 0870 429 6000. Above cost doesn't include tools like cutters, saws,
drills, soldering iron and solder. Note you can buy a ready made cable tester from Maplin for £59.99 (code ZY77J).

The Salvage Server Project has been developed by the Free Range Network to promote the use of redundant IT equipment as a resource for community and grass roots
campaigning organisations. This report has been produced to support the work of the project, and is made freely available to encourage the objectives of the project.
© Copyright 2003, Paul Mobbs/Free Range Network. Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free
Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with Invariant Sections being the document title and author
identification, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover Texts. A copy of the license is provided at: http://www.fraw.org.uk/_admin/rights.html This document has been
wholly produced using the Gnu/Linux operating system and free software.
The information contained in this work has been obtained from sources that are believed to be reliable. However, We cannot provide any absolute guarantee that the
information contained herein is wholly correct, or that the manner in which the information is used is correct, and consequently we cannot be responsible for any error,
omissions or damages arising from the use of the information in this work. This work has been created on the basis that the Free Range Network is not intending to
supply engineering or any other professional services – the purposes of this briefing are merely illustrative.

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