Arctic Odyssey

July 12 – July 20, 2008

EXPEDITION STAFF
Julio Preller (Expedition Leader)
Sebastian Arrebola
Ken Knowles
Shoshanah Jacobs
Jason Annahatak
Mae Ningiurivik
Benoit Havard
Michael Richardson
Susan Aiken
Tara Ryan
Jari Leduk
Joe Etok
Aisa Pirti
Konstantin Petrosyan (Doctor)

HOTEL
Gloria Ensor (Hotel Manager)
Jeff Chau (AHM)
Melissa Ruston (AHM)
Randi Beers (Bar)

TRAINEE PROGRAM
Mitchell White
Chantelle Andersen
Jenna Andersen
Jaiko Angnatuk
Amanda Barron

KITCHEN
Fred Skanes
Blois Crawley
Jason Whittle
George Courets

CAPTAIN OF THE SHIP

Andre Rodenko
 OUR ITINERARY

July 12 Kuujjuaq
July 13 Akpatok Island
July 14 Diana Island, Opingivik Island
July 15 Kangiqsujuaq
July 16 Cape Wolstenholme and Ivujivik
July 17 At Sea
July 18 Marble Island
Walrus Island
July 19 Churchill
July 20 Churchill

EXPEDITION LOG

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Kuujjuaq INFORMATION FROM THE BRIDGE

58°10’N, 068°18’W Air Temperature 13°C
Sea Temperature 2°C
Sea Stage 0
Sky Blue Sky/Cloud
Wind 15 Knots SW
Mileage 0 nm

Did you know? We arrived in Kuujjuak at lunch time where it was also lunch
time for the local black flies who were eager to welcome us to
the north. We were greeted by the Cruise North staff who
guided us to our first important stop – lunch at the local
restaurant.

After lunch there was

The word “arctic” comes
from the Greek Arktikos,
the country of the Great
Bear. It is so named not
because of polar bears
(of which the early
Greeks probably knew
nothing), but because it
sits underneath the
constellation Ursa Major
– the Great Bear. The
fact that nobody had
spent any time in the
Arctic is emphasised by
the impression the
time to visit the craft
stores for a first look
at Inuit art. We soon
boarded the zodiacs
for a short ride on the
Koksoak River to the
Lyuba Orlovva, our
home for the next
nine days.
After settling into our
cabins we joined staff in the Forward Lounge and were given
an introduction to the ways of life aboard ship. Gloria told us
the what and the where, while Julio gave us the who and the
when. Ar high tide, the Orlova began to move out of the
Koksoak River on a stunningly beautiful evening, passing
gradually from treeline to tundra to Ungava Bay as the long
ancient Greeks had of
this far northerly place –
it was a country of rich
soil, warm breezes,
many different animals
and trees that bore fruit
all year long.
arctic evening progressed.
We practiced the safety and lifeboat procedures before
adjourning to the dining room for a welcome toast and our
first sampling of the Cruise North menu. The evening was
spent meeting friends, enjoying the evening on deck
(mergansers and loons!) or viewing the movie Climate at the
Edge in the lounge. Many were rocked to sleep long before it
was over.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

INFORMATION FROM THE BRIDGE
Air Temperature 15°C
Akpatok Island Sea Temperature 0°C
60°30’N, 067°54’W Sea Stage 1
Sky Blue Sky
Wind 2 Knots NW
Mileage in last 24h 144 nm

Did you know? We landed on Akpatok Island on a sunny day with a very
slight breeze that deterred most bugs. There were
interesting chunks of ice on the beach and fossils were
observed in the rocks of a tidal pool. The long walkers
climbed a short slope and found a relatively large
abandoned hut with significant metal debris that dates
back to mining activity in the 1970’s. A smaller abandoned
hut nearby made date back to scientific studies in the
1930’s that used Akpatok as a base for studying ice
conditions in Hudson Strait. The walk continued along a
relatively wide beach at the base of crumbling cliffs that
Polar Bear, common name conspicuously lack nesting birds or vegetation.
for a white bear found on
the sea ice of the Arctic At a suitable place in the cliffs walkers scrambled up a
Circle throughout the barren slope to higher ground that commanded an
North Polar basin. The excellent view of the sea and the relatively flat surface of
only marine bear, it is
the top of the island. The return walk was on higher
longer than other bears
and streamlined for ground until just above the abandoned buildings. Here
aquatic life. Their five walkers scrambled down the slope to the beach. Much of
sharp, curved claws on the area was dessert-like with fewer than 15 species of
each foot are perfect for flowering plants. Contemplative walkers walked from the
grasping the sea ice and landing beach inland beside a stream. They saw patches of
their primary prey: ringed
willows and slopes mainly covered in Mountain avens.
seals.

During lunch the ship re-positioned to the side of Akpatok

Island where there are steep cliffs. On these cliffs is the
largest thick billed mure colony in the world. There is a
narrow beach at the base of the cliffs. Highlights of the
afternoon were seeing the mures, and seeing a polar bear
swimming in the ocean. A second polar bear was watched
as it ate plants that it pulled off areas in the cliffs where
lush blue grasses and scurvy grass grow. After dinner the
film Arctic Kingdom was shown.

Monday, July 14, 2008

INFORMATION FROM THE BRIDGE

Diana Island Air Temperature 15°C
60°58’N, 069°57’W Sea Temperature 0°C
Opingivik Island Sea Stage 1
60°55’N, 069°59’W Sky Blue Sky
Wind 25 Knots SE
Mileage in last 24h 101 nm

Did you know? Our morning started with the ride aboard the zodiacs to
Diana Island on this windy but sunny outing. The walk
along the rocky shores led us to where Jason, our bear
monitor, was sitting quietly a little distance away looking
at our first musk-ox. It seems Julio may indeed have
gotten in contact with the majestic animals in arranging
their appearance, because they appeared about half an
hour after our 9AM landing, as suggested. After our first
sighting, passengers were split into two groups of walkers;
short and long. The long walkers traversed around a small
hill and were treated to a sight of a herd of three other
Musk ox, the long musk-oxen up high grazing on the mountain. Around the
haired, dark brown hill were another 3 musk-oxen in a meadow in the
ruminant related to distance. The short walkers were entertained by the sight
goats and sheep. The of Julio quietly trying to get a closer look at an old lone
musk ox is found in musk-ox. The enormous old musk-ox Julio tried
northern Canada and approaching didn’t seemed phased by his curious onlooker.
Greenland and has However, he let Julio know to keep his distance by giving
been introduced to him a bluff charge. The lone male was not intimidated or to
Alaska and other be messed with, and he was letting us know exactly that.
northern areas. An After establishing a safe distance and standpoint, Julio
adult bull averages 1.9 invited small groups of guests to get just a little closer to
to 2.3 m in length, the lone male musk-ox.
stands 1.2 to 1.5 m at
the shoulder, and has The afternoon visit to a great archaeological site on
long, downward curving Opingivik Island was led by Shoshanah. She showed us
horns with sharp, graves that may have dated back to Thule times. Some of
upturned tips. Females the tombs still had human remains inside and all
are much smaller. Both passengers were kindly considerate not to move anything.
sexes have a dense Traditional Fox traps that let foxes in but not out were also
undercoat and an still standing functional around the archaeological site.
ankle-length outer coat Another long walk was traversed and those on that walk
for protection against got to see more but different archaeological remains;
the cold. The male foundations for three houses were apparent here. Several
emits a strong scent of passengers remarked on the remarkable and untouched
musk when in rut, panoramic views that this particular tiny island afforded.
hence the name. Ken reported back to the passengers at the end of the day
the birds he had spotted; it was quite a long list that we
were surprised to learn. He also agreed with Julio’s
observation that the musk-ox was in fact male, albeit
based on different qualifications from Julio’s.

Passenger contribution…
“I have never golfed on a
carpet of flowers…”

- JW

Passenger contribution…
“What a better way to celebrate our 35th wedding
anniversary? … After all, the essence of Canada, at least for
us, has always been the wilderness that we have so much of.”
Peter and Shirley Holt
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
INFORMATION FROM THE BRIDGE
Air Temperature 17°C
Sea Temperature 1°C
Kangiqsujuaq Sea Stage 0
61°36’N, 071°58’W Sky Blue Sky
Wind 5 Knots W
Mileage in last 24h 102 nm

Did you know? Another glorious day, brilliant sunshine and warm
temperatures, not the average image of the arctic, much less
that of a town of Inuit. Today would be a day to partake in
Inuit culture and soak in a little sunshine.

Our morning was devoted to a visit to the small village of

Kangiqsujuaq. Greeting us at the landing site were two native
guides who would lead us through the town. At the visitor
centre we were treated to an excellent interpretive display, a
favourite exhibit being the kayak made of sealskin. What a
way to travel and hunt! Across the road at the athletic centre
locals told stories of the old days and youngsters danced. A
scrumptious buffet of char tartar, mussel soup and herbal teas
was laid out. This small town is world renowned for the
people that enter cracks in the ice and pick the delicious
bivalves as the tides recede.
Inuit have an effective
way of preventing A few people enjoyed another northern surprise, a game of
frostbite when the early golf! The town has been working hard to attract tourists and
symptom is localized, the development of the golf course has been one aspect of the
for example, on the quest. After the cultural events all headed for the co-op and a
cheeks or ears. The first chance to purchase some carved soapstone. This most
sign of frostbite is famous of Inuit art forms was well represented in the small
visible when a small shop tucked in the back of the store.
patch of skin turns
clearly white. When this
happens, the only
As lunch approached we headed to the familiar comforts of the
known remedy is to Lyubov Orlova. In the forward lounge we heard Jason speak
place snow onto the about Inuit culture. We all learned a few words in inuitituk
white frozen skin area and how closely tied the Inuit are to the land and sea.
and keep it applied Surviving on caribou and seals for the bulk of their food, store-
there until the white bought still makes up but a small proportion of most Inuit
area ‘melts’ and returns diets.
to its normal color. This
counterintuitive
Later Shoshanah gave a presentation on the Thick-billed
knowledge is even more
fascinating considering
Murre, purportedly the king of the arctic birds. Studying these
attempts to remedy the birds for her doctorate, Shoshanah is considered a world
frostbite with heat or authority on these fascinating birds. Breeding on steep cliffs
bare hands only cause in the high arctic, the young must jump from the nest and
the frostbite to ensue. glide to the water below. The young, unable to fly, swim with
their fathers to reach the north Atlantic ocean where they
spend their first winter and finally grown the feathers that will
allow them to fly.

What a day to learn about the people that have adapted to the
harshest conditions imaginable!
Wednesday, July 16, 2008

INFORMATION FROM THE BRIDGE

Cape Wolstenholme Air Temperature 11°C
62°22’N, 077°54’W Sea Temperature 0°C
Ivujivik Sea Stage 0
62°32’N, 077°32’W Sky Blue sky
Wind 0
Mileage in last 24h 209 nm

Did you know? It was hard to believe, but once again we awoke to a perfect
day. Calm seas and morning sunlight awaited our pre-
breakfast zodiac cruise along the cliffs of Cape Wolstenholme,
home to half a million Thick-billed Murres. The glass-like seas
allowed the zodiacs close approach to the ledges for superb
views of Shoshanah’s favourite bird. Glaucous Gulls were a
menacing presence, waiting their chance at an unguarded egg.
When the zodiac engines were turned off we could hear the
grating growl of the murres filling the air. Benoit learned to
imitate the sound.

Afterwards, as we warmed up with coffee and breakfast the

The flying penguin-like
Thick-billed Murres
Orlova made the short trip to Ivujivik for our morning ashore.
weigh approximately 1 Due to overwhelming passenger pressure (word had got out),
kg and have the it was agreed that the first stop would be the Co-op for crafts.
shortest wings of all Both the highs and lows were the same as the previous cruise;
flying birds. They are high artistic value and low prices! The shelves were soon
extraordinary divers, emptied and meeting a few carvers, especially Benoit’s friend
diving up to 200 metres Matoosie, made the purchases more special. Ivujivik does
maximum with an however, need to invest in some bubble wrap.
average of 100m per
dive. These birds nest
on exposed cliffs in
The Co-op group then took to the hills and enjoyed the view
dense colonies to out over town and along the way spotted a snow bunting with
protect themselves from young. Meanwhile the kayakers were upping the ante by
predators. They are, spotting a white gyrfalcon – a stunning sight against the blue
without a doubt, the sky.
coolest bird in the
Arctic. We zodiaced back to the ship for an on-deck barbecue in what
is possibly the best weather ever seen in Ivujivik. Just when
we thought it couldn’t get any better they brought out the
strawberries dipped in chocolate.

After lunch the insane among the staff filled the pool directly
from the arctic waters of Hudson Bay and inexplicably –
jumped in! No-one knows why. Apparently most of them lived,
including a few brave passengers.

In a more sober vein, Ken gave his presentation on Arctic

birds, followed by Susan’s pornographic lecture entitled Plant
Sex. In a day full of surprises, the evening ended with Peter’s
recitation (from memory!) in the bar of poetry by Robert
Service, followed by a ghost story. It was a full day.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
INFORMATION FROM THE BRIDGE
Air Temperature 13°C
At sea in Hudson Bay Sea Temperature 0°C
Sea Stage 2
Sky Cloudy
Wind 17 knots
Mileage in last 24h 258 nm

Did you know? Today we woke up to calm seas as we crossed Hudson Bay.
We had a full program of lectures ahead of us as we at our
Three species of breakfast.
Jaegers make the
North their home, the
In the morning, Michael told us all about the differences
Pomarine, Parasitic
between the Arctic and the Antarctic and we further developed
and Long-tailed. All
three birds are our appreciation for these unique wildernesses. Benoit
parasitic, harassing followed up with tales of his adventures. Travelling by ship is
terns, kittiwakes and certainly more comfortable than bicycle!
other seabirds and
forcing them to drop In the afternoon, some of us gathered for a fun Quebecois film
or even disgorge their while others took advantage of the warm weather and went
catch which the for a swim in the cold Arctic waters captured in the stern deck
Jaeger then retrieves
pool.
in mid air. As a result
it appeared to
fishermen that the The evening was wrapped up with a presentation by Michael of
bird being preyed his favourite passenger questions; none of which had been
upon was defecating asked on our trip, of course!
and the Jaeger came
to be known to
Newfoundland
fishermen as the
“Shit-hawk.”
Friday, July 18, 2008

INFORMATION FROM THE BRIDGE

Marble Island Air Temperature 10°C
62°40’N, 091°07’W Sea Temperature 0°C
Walrus Island Sea Stage 1
62°07’N, 092°14’W Sky Blue Sky
Wind 12 knots
Mileage in last 24h 139 nm

Did you know? Shortly after 08.00, the zodiacs left the ship and headed
through the mist to Marble Island. The island lived up to its
name with very large outcrops of white quartzite. We landed on
a beach near the skeleton of a Beluga whale. There was Sea
lyme grass near the shore, then very abruptly an Arctic willow
zone and behind that a dry mountain avens tundra. One group
of walkers crossed the island travelling across humock and
hollow pattern ground, wet meadows and drained ponds where
geese had left footprint. Another group took a long walk
around a series of ponds where we spotted many duck species,
including Eider Ducks, and the Long-tail Duck. A short climb to
In the Arctic, the the top of a rocky outcrop gave us a terrific view of the cove
majority of the seal and the ship at anchor just outside. As the tide quickly
species are dependent receded, we made our way back to the ship and took
upon the sea ice advantage of another meal time to fill our bellies.
where the females
give birth to their In the late afternoon, after a much needed siesta, we boarded
young. It is therefore the zodiacs and headed out to Walrus Island. Though we didn’t
very important for spot any of the big blubbery beasts on the shore, we came
them to perfectly
across large colonies of Arctic Terns, Eider Ducks, Gulls, and
synchronise the
different stages of Long-tail Ducks. A bearded seal poked its head above the
reproduction with the surface for a curious view as we made our way around the
cycles of the ice. island.
Mating occurs just at
the end of weaning Back on board, we finished paying our accounts, and, following
for that year. Then yet another meal… we gathered in the bar for a Staff fashion
the adults disperse show and throatsinging workshop led by Mae.
and do not meet up
until the following
mating season.
Saturday, July 19, 2008

Churchill INFORMATION FROM THE BRIDGE

58°47’N, 094°11’W Air Temperature 18°C
Sea Temperature 0°C
Sea Stage 1
Sky Blue Sky
Wind 7 knots
Mileage in last 24h 261 nm

Did you know? One final day aboard the Orlova, one final day of wildlife and
fun. We have arrived at the mouth of the Churchill River and
await our pilot to guide us home, but time is not to be
wasted. Today we can relieve the journey and maybe see
one last species of wildlife.

The highlight of the morning was the final recap. This recap
would be special as we would see a slide show of the entire
voyage. Over the course of the Arctic Odyssey trip staff had
gathered photos of all the activities and compiled these as a
slide show accompanied by music. Playing on the big screen
in the forward lounge, memories of landings and adventures
Beluga (whale) or White
Whale, toothed whale, were relieved, so much had happened over the previous ten
closely related to the days. We could scarcely remember all the good times. A din
dolphin, with a clearly of satisfaction arose as all were informed that the slide show
defined head and short would be available to take home.
fins. Belugas (derived
from the Russian After lunch a zodiac cruise took us in pursuit of Belugas.
byelukha, meaning These “angles of the arctic” are one of the most distinctive of
“white”) are born either whales and all were stunned to finally see the ghost like
black or dark brown,
creatures. Sometimes also called canaries, for their
without dorsal fins, and
turn milky white in extensive vocal abilities, Belugas are the only whale able to
about five years. Males move their head and neck and one of the three whales of the
can attain a maximum arctic.
length of 7.0 m and a
weight of 1 metric ton; Our last dinner together was the Captain’s dinner. This
females are somewhat cruise tradition allowed all to show their thanks for the
smaller. Captain, officers and crew of the Orlova as well as expedition
leader Julio and hotel manager Gloria. Most guests then
headed to the bar to relive memories of the trip and
exchange emails.
Sunday, July 20, 2008

Churchill INFORMATION FROM THE BRIDGE

58°47’N, 094°11’W Air Temperature
Sea Temperature
Sea Stage
Sky
Wind
Mileage in last 24h

We woke up in the morning and placed our luggage outside our cabins on the way to
breakfast. It was time to start saying goodbye to our new friends and the Cruise
North Staff. As we exchanged our last business cards and email addresses, we made
our way to the airport with a short town tour on the way. Boarding the plane, we
made our way back home.

The Expedition Staff, Hotel Staff, and Crew thank you for traveling with
us. We hope to see you again soon!!