I 10737

’66 D-REVERB 22W
COMBO AMP KIT

ORIGINAL AB763 CIRCUIT
Famously clean with

enough guts to gig!
A S S E M B LY I N S T R U C T I O N S
With loads of
helpful tips!
Contents
About this iconic amp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
How to build this kit!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Parts list. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Tools and supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Amp voltages are seriously dangerous!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
How to use a snuffer stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
How to read resistor values . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Capacitor values . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Prepping the cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Prepping the eyelet boards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Tips for great soldering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Installing the chassis-mounted components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
How to install parts on an eyelet board in three steps . . . . . . . . . . 22
Wrapping parts onto the bias board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Wrapping parts onto the filter cap board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Wrapping parts onto the main eyelet board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Installing parts and preparing for testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Testing and troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Final assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Tips for using the 66D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Learning more: secrets revealed in the schematic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Circuit schematic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
More iconic amp kits from StewMac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Complete wiring diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Tube replacement chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
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stewmac.com 2 © 2019 StewMac

’66 D-REVERB 22W
COMBO AMP KIT ORIGINAL AB763 CIRCUIT
For many players, this is

the #1 desert island amp!
Be excited!
Your new StewMac ’66 D-Reverb will be a blast
to play through and even more fun to build.
Perfect for recording as well as performing,
the D-Reverb produces stinging clarity that
absolutely refuses to get lost in the mix.
This amp is an ICON

One of the most popular designs ever, this amp lives in the happy middle
between bright clarity and rich distortion. It excels in the studio and on
the stage. While capable of crystal clear tones at good volume, you can
push this one into beautifully saturated, play-sensitive distortion.
It’s all here: clarity, distortion, and rectifier tube sag.
StewMac ICON KITS bring classics that are no longer made, or are simply
unaffordable, within reach. And the best part is you get to build them
with your own hands.
We give painstaking attention to parts selection, authentic materials, and
instantly recognizable details—everything that makes the originals so
sought after.
Build it with StewMac
These immersive instructions walk you through every step of creating your
’66 D-Reverb. And you’ll learn a lot, gaining a deep knowledge of your
amp’s inner workings.
Follow our steps closely for safety, too: we’ve carefully laid out a path that
even newcomers can follow in handling electrical components.
Building an amp can seem daunting, but nobody makes it easier than
StewMac. Watch for helpful tips along the way, too—we’re here to help!
Let’s get building!

Here’s how to build this amp!
Quick look:
Sort your components by type, using the parts list.
Get the cabinet ready,

starting at Step 1 on page 8.
You’ll prep the metal chassis
and the eyelet board too.
Wiring goes like this:

1. First, you’ll wrap the leads, connecting them without solder.
2. Then double-check all the connections. Don’t rush!
3. When everything checks out, it's time to solder.
See page 11 The numbered steps tell you when.
Learn more:
Gain Processing Output
Gain Processing Gain Negative Feedback
250pF .047μF 220K 820Ω
You don’t need to read the schematic, but it’s fun!

2 SOCKET V1 Output
100K
TREBLE
7025
250KA
SOCKET V4 6
68 K
SOCKET V7 3 +370V
+180V
6 7025 +180V
SOCKET V6 6V6GT 4 +365V
NORMAL
VOLUME
7
+180V 1 12AT7 .1μF 1.5 K 470Ω
EXTENSION
1MA
.1μF .01μF
+200V SPEAKER
2 7 1
3 +1.3V 8 2 5
+1.3V
220K
68 K
82 K
250KA
BASS
1M
+1.3V 8 8
TR3
100K
+415 V
-35V
22K 470Ω
100K
220K
25μF 50V
+77V
10pF
3.3M
8
1 E
1.5 K
1M
220K
.047μF A .1μF 8
100K
6.8K
1M
See how your guitar’s signal gets processed into sound

.1μF 1.5 K
6 470 Ω
.1pF
5
+180V
SOCKET V8 4 +415V
C
47Ω
6V6GT 3 +415V
100K
100K
250pF 47pF
100K
TR2
Power
SOCKET V2 10K 10K

2
100K
TREBLE
7025
250KA
68 K
+170V
6
.022μF D 16μF C 16μF B 16μF
VIBRATO
VOLUME
450V 450V 450V
on page 59.
+170V 1 STANDBY
1MA
.1μF
2 SWITCH
3 +1.3V
Processing
68 K
250KA
BASS
+1.3V 8
A 100K
25μF 50V
16μF 450V
16μF 450V
25μF 50V
3MRA
820Ω
1
1.5 K
.047μF SPEED
6.8K
1M
1M .01μF
SOCKET V5
12AX7
.02μF
.01μF
6
VIBRATO
PEDAL 1M 2 1
Processing 7 10KL
220K
3
2.2 M
470Ω
10K
SOCKET V3 8
25μF 50V
INTENSITY
500pF
12AT7 +410V
25μF 50V
25μF 50V
50KRA
220K
100AK
TR4 .0033μF
10M
+170V
27K
1 6 1
2 2
100K
470K
220K
8 +8.7V
B
3 +1.2V
1M
25μF 50V
REVERB
25μF 50V
TR1
100KL
820Ω
100K
SOCKET V9
2.2K
TR1: 125P33A
GZ34
125P23B 330VAC 6
TR2: 125C3A AC switch 8
Input Output TR3: 125A1A 2
B REVERB UNIT REVERB D TR4: 125A20B 330VAC 4
PEDAL
1 amp To tube heaters
slow-blow fuse and pilot light
100Ω
100Ω
#10733 © 2018 StewMac
Resistor Capacitor Potentiometers Diode Transformer Jack Ground Shielded Preamp tube Power tube Rectifier tube Optoisolater
’66 D-REVERB 22W

cable
plate plate plate cathode
grid screen
Electrolytic Cap. grid filament
plate
cathode cathode ORIGINAL AB763 CIRCUIT

Parts list Resistors Capacitors
r (1) 47pF 500V silver mica
47
r (1) 47Ω .5W carbon composite
Yellow Violet Black Gold
250 510+
r (2) 250pF 500V silver mica
Brown Black Brown Gold

Yellow Violet Brown Gold r (1) 500pF 500V silver mica
Gray Red Brown Gold
r (1) 10pF 500V ceramic disk
r (4) 1.5K .5W carbon composite
Brown Green Red Gold
103K
r (1) 2.2K .5W carbon composite r (2) .01μF 500V ceramic disk
Red Red Red Gold
203Z
Red Violet Red Gold
r (1) .02μF 500V ceramic disk
Blue Gray Red Gold
102J 1119 r (1) .001μF 600V Orange Drop
r (1) 10K .5W carbon composite
Brown Black Orange Gold
r (1) 22K .5W carbon composite 332J 600V r (1) .0033μF 600V Orange Drop
Red Red Orange Gold
Red Violet Orange Gold

Green Blue Orange Gold
Blue Gray Orange Gold

Gray Red Orange Gold
r (12)100K .5W carbon composite 104J 600V r (6) .1μF 600V Orange Drop
Brown Black Yellow Gold

Red Red Yellow Gold

Yellow Violet Yellow Gold
r (7) 1M .5W carbon composite 16μF r (5) 16μF 500V electrolytic

Brown Black Green Gold
r (1) 2.2M .5W carbon composite

Red Red Green Gold
25µF r (8) 25μF 50V sprague atom
+
r (1) 3.3M .5W carbon composite

Orange Orange Green Gold
r (3) 470Ω 1W carbon film

Yellow Violet Brown Gold Diode, optoisolator
r (1) 10M 1W carbon film
Brown Black Blue Gold r (1) 1N4007 1000V rectifier diode
r (2) 10K 2W metal oxide
Brown Black Orange Gold r (1) Optoisolator
Hardware
r (6) 8-32 machine screw, 3/8" r (1) Cabinet

r (10) 8-32 locknut
r (4) 6-32 machine screw, 1/2"
r (4) 6-32 locknut
r (6) 4-40 machine screw, 3/8" r (1) Chassis
r (20) 4-40 machine screw, 1/4"
r (26) 4-40 locknut r (1) Capacitor pan
r (4) Self-tapping screw
r (3) Eyelet boards
r (1) Black wood screw
r (3) Insulator boards
r (1) Power cord clamp
r (1) Strain relief for power cord r (1) Faceplate/backplate set
r (6) Rubber grommet

r (1) 12” speaker
r (2) Chassis mounting strap
r (4) Chassis strap screw and nut
Parts list Tubes, lamps, fuses, and sockets Control pots and more
0KL
r (4) RCA-style jack r (1) 10KL bias pot
1
r (1) Two-lug jack 0KL
r (1) 100KL control pot
10
r (5) Three-lug jack 0KA
r (4) 250KA control pot
25
67 8
r (6) Nine-pin tube socket
9
45
1 23
MA
r (2) 1MA control pot
1
r (6) Shield for nine-pin tube socket
A
MR
r (1) 3MRA control pot
3
6 7
r (3) Eight-pin tube socket

5
8
4
KRA
2
r (1) 50KRA control pot

3
50
r (3) Tension clip for eight-pin socket
432
1
76 5
10 r (9) Knob
12AX7
r (4) 12AX7 preamp tube (also called ECC83S)

98
12AT7
r (2) 12AT7 preamp tube (also called ECC81) r (2) Three-lug grounding strip
6V6
r (2) 6V6S power tube

r (2) Power switch (2 lugs)
5AR4
r (1) 5AR4 rectifier tube (also called GZ34)
r (1) Fuse socket r (1) Ground switch (3 lugs)
r (1) Fuse (1 amp, slow blow)

r (1) Power cord
r (1) Pilot lamp socket with lens
r (1) Speaker plug
r (1) Pilot lamp bulb (#47)
Wire Transformers
r (1) Heater wires (pre-tinned) r (1) Power transformer
r (1) Speaker wires (multi-strand)
r (1) Yellow push-back wire r (1) Output transformer
r (1) Green push-back wire r (1) Reverb driver
Vintage-style push-back wire lets you push r (1) Filter choke

the insulation back instead of trimming it.
BUT: Trimming it still works better!
Reverb
Heat-shrink tubing r (1) Reverb tank
r (2) 1/8" diameter r (1) Reverb tank bag
r (1) Reverb wiring kit
r (1) Footswitch

Tools and supplies
Required Phillips screwdrivers, #1 and #2 #1609

Item #3000 Guitar Tech Screwdriver Set Round Nose
Bending Pliers #0505
Needle nose pliers Kester
Pocket-Pak
Item #1610 Long Nose Pliers Solder
Wire cutter
Item #1607 Wire Cutter
Wire stripper
Item #1606 Wire Stripper
Soldering iron (preferably 40W) #0501
Solomon SL-30
Item #0501 Solomon SL-30 Soldering Station Soldering Station
Solder (at least one Pocket-Pak)
Item #0505 Kester Pocket-Pak Solder
Solder sucker
Item #0503 Solomon Solder Sucker
Drill with a 5/32", 5/64", and 1/4" bit #3000
For mounting eyelet board and filter cap Guitar Tech
Screwdriver Set
Ruler
Item #4905 StewMac Shop Rule
Digital multimeter
Item #3618 Fieldpiece Pocket Multimeter
Snuffer stick (bleed resistor)
Item #1552 Snuffer Stick
#1606
Pencil Wire Stripper
Wooden chopsticks
Glue
Wood glue, white glue, or
contact cement for gluing a
paper label inside the cabinet #1607
Wire Cutter
Butane lighter or matches
For heating heat-shrink tubing
Helpful Round nose bending pliers

Item #1609 Round Nose Bending Pliers
Solder wick
Item #0504 Solder Wick, 5-foot roll
Soldering aids StewMac’s Solder Monster
Item #0521 StewMac Soldering Aids
Soldering stand
holds parts while you solder
Item #0506 Solomon Soldering Stand
Solder Monster, or helping hand tool
Item #0531 StewMac Solder Monster
Chassis stand
Item #10750 Chassis Stand
Printed circuit board vise
Scratch awl or center punch
Item #3000 Guitar Tech Screwdriver Set
Tray for loose parts
Bias meter for accurate biasing
Item #1580 VHT Tube Tester #0531
StewMac
+ Amp Bias Meter Solder Monster

Amp voltages are seriously dangerous!
High voltage, even when unplugged

When you turn on an amp, the capacitors are designed to
take on a charge and hold it. That stored voltage is enough
to injure you seriously, or even kill you.
These components aren’t a threat until the first time you plug
the amp in. The stored electricity can be safely discharged to
ground with a snuffer stick. See how to use it below.
Take breaks and stop when you’re tired
Once your amp has been turned on, don’t touch the wiring Fatigue leads to mistakes, and no one can afford mistakes
with your bare hands—even after turning it off. If you need when working with electricity.
to press on a contact, use a chopstick or Sharpie marker,
which are both non-conductive. Don’t use a pencil, because Stay suspicious
graphite is conductive. Whether it’s the first time you’ve been inside a live ampli-
fier or the 100th time, don’t become complacent. If you
It’s important that you understand the dangers so you’re discharge the caps and walk away for a few minutes, check
working safely. Here’s how to do it right. again for residual voltage when you return. Capacitors can
Wear rubber-soled shoes self-charge through a phenomenon known as dielectric
Rubber soles increase the insulation Professionals memory.
between yourself and the ground. who work on Check before powering on
Take off your ring amps take these It’s easy to forget that you a left a stray tool or wire in the
A metal ring on your finger can safety habits chassis. It’s also easy to forget to re-attach the speaker wire,
bridge a hot connection to ground. very seriously and that can fry an output transformer in seconds. Constant
Wear safety glasses vigilance is your friend when working on amps.
Rosin-core solder sometimes bubbles up, and it can spew Always unplug it
molten specks into the air. You don’t want molten solder in Unplug the amp whenever you don’t specifically need it
your eyes. plugged in. Some points are always hot when the amp’s
It’s better not to work alone plugged in, even if the power switch is off. These points
include the lugs on the fuse socket, power switch, and
Electrical shocks can incapacitate you, and having someone
standby switch.
available to call 911 can be a lifesaver.
How to use a snuffer stick

To discharge a capacitor, clip the snuffer stick lead
to ground—preferably a mounting bolt on the
power transformer. Hold the tip of the stick to the
cap’s positive lead and use your multimeter to
watch the voltage drain to less than 18V.

How to read resistor values Capacitor values
A resistor’s value—the amount of resistance it creates—is Capacitor values are typically printed on the component.
rated in ohms ( Ω ). Larger ohm values mean more resistance. The key values with caps are their capacitance and voltage.
For example, a 100Ω resistor creates ten times as much re-
Think of a capacitor as a container that can hold electricity.
sistance as a 10Ω resistor.
Capacitance, measured in farads, refers to how much elec-
The resistors used in amplifiers are too small to have value tricity this container can hold—its capacity. One farad (1F)
numbers printed on them. Instead, a system of colored would be much too large for use in an amplifier. Caps for
bands tells their values. The key to reading these bands is amps are rated in millionths of a farad, called microfarads
provided below. However, an easier way to decode these (μF), or trillionths of a farad: picofarads (pF). The voltage
bands is to download one of the many smartphone apps spec for a cap refers to how much DC voltage it can handle
for this purpose. at any given time.
One band will be the nearest to an end of the resistor. That A unique property of capacitors is that they don’t allow DC
band tells the first value. Combine it with the value of band current to flow past them, only AC current. This is important
2 to get a two-digit number (68 in our example below). in parts of an amplifier circuit, such as the path between a
Multiply that number by band 3 (68 x 1,000 = 68,000). Thou- preamp stage and a power amp stage. Here, a “coupling
sands are represented by the letter K, so this resistor is 68K capacitor" will block DC voltage, allowing only the AC guitar
(kilo-ohms, or KΩ). signal to pass.
If there is a fourth band, it will be either silver or gold. This Filter caps
indicates the tolerance allowed during manufacturing. The Capacitors also filter out 60Hz hum, or “ripple," after the AC
resistors used in this kit have a +/- 5% tolerance, represented current from the wall is converted to DC. These capacitors
by a gold band 4. are called filter caps, because they filter out the ripple from
a power supply. The filter caps in this amp are the 16μF
A magnifying glass helps a lot. The bands on a 470Ω resistor
are yellow/violet/brown, and the bands on a 47K resistor are electrolytic capacitors.
yellow/violet/orange. They’re easily confused! Electrolytic caps
Can’t read the colors? Electrolytic capacitors contain electrolyte: a liquid or gel
that gives them a large storage capacity. Electrolytic caps
You can always use a multimeter to test a resistor’s value.
are typically polarized.
Set your meter to ohms and connect the test leads on each
side of the resistor.
Band 1 Band 2 Band 3 Band 4 16μf
1st Digit 2nd Digit Multiplier Tolerance Positive Negative
BLACK 0 0 1 None +/- 20%
25μF
+
BROWN 1 1 10
RED 2 2 100 Polarized caps
ORANGE 3 3 1,000 Some capacitors have polarity and some don’t. It’s extremely
YELLOW 4 4 10,000 important to install polarized caps correctly in a circuit. The
GREEN 5 5 100,000 positive lead of an electrolytic cap will be indicated by an
BLUE 6 6 1,000,000 indented ring around one edge of the capacitor. The nega-
VIOLET 7 7 tive lead will often be indicated by a band of arrows pointing
GRAY 8 8 0.01 +/- 10% SILVER to the negative lead.
WHITE 9 9 0.1 +/- 5% GOLD
Installing capacitors with the polarity backwards will make
the circuit malfunction and quickly destroy the capacitor—
6 8 x1,000 +/- 5% even causing it to explode.
Blue Gray Orange Gold 68K +/- 5%
K = 1,000
Read this band first (closest to an end)

Start by prepping the cabinet
Remove the cabinet’s two back panels

to prepare for installing the speaker.
Check off each

completed step
STEP 1
Mount the power cord clamp
Drill a 5/64" pilot hole to mount the
power cord clamp. Locate the clamp
inside the left wall
of the cabinet, 1”
from the back Here
panel ledge, 8”
from the bottom. Back
STEP 2 STEP 3
Solder the speaker plug Solder the speaker leads
Don’t drill through the cabinet! Use a Use a small screwdriver to remove the Twist the speaker leads together to
piece of masking tape on your drill bit back panel of the speaker plug. keep them neat.
to mark the depth, or use a StewMac
On the black and white speaker leads, Push the insulation back 3/8" and
Depth-stop Drill Bit (item #1712).
push the insulation back 3/8". Solder insert the white lead into the speaker’s
Use the black wood screw to mount the white positive lead to the tip lug positive terminal and the black lead
the power cord clamp. You’ll secure (center of the plug). through the negative terminal.
the power cord with this clamp later,
Trim the black lead and solder it to the Before soldering these leads, place
after the testing.
sleeve lug. The solder joints need to a business card or other protection
be neat so they won’t short against under the terminals to prevent solder
the metal case. See "Tips for great dripping onto the speaker cone.
soldering" on page 11. Solder the two leads to the speaker
Reassemble the plug and do a terminals.
continuity test with your multimeter
to make sure there’s no connection
between the plug’s tip and its metal
case (see page 53).

STEP 4 STEP 5 STEP 7
Install the speaker Install faceplate + backplate Reverb wiring kit
Remove the nuts from the four Secure the faceplate by putting The shielded wire is in two 3-foot
speaker-mounting screws. Carefully the normal channel volume and lengths. At the ends of each piece, pull
slide the speaker onto the mounting bass control pots in their holes and 3/4" of the wire mesh shielding away
screws until it’s flush with the front sliding the faceplate over them. Install to one side and strip away 3/8" of the
panel. washers and nuts on the pots to hold internal cloth shielding. Insert the
the plate in place. exposed wire into an RCA plug so that
Install the four speaker-mounting
it reaches the tip of the center post.
nuts so they’re lightly touching the Use the 1MA pot for volume and a
speaker frame. 250KA pot for bass. Install them with Solder this lead in place at the tip of
their lugs facing up for soldering. See the plug. Don’t leave solder on the
Do not tighten the nuts in a circular
the wiring diagram on Page 12. outside of the plug tip, which would
pattern around the speaker, because
keep it from fitting into the jack. See
this can warp the speaker frame. Install the backplate the same way,
“Tips for great soldering” on page 11.
using the two-lug extension speaker
Instead tighten one nut with a quarter
jack and the three-lug ground switch. After the plug tip cools and the inside
turn so it’s just snug, then do the same
solder joint is set, solder the braided
to the opposite side. Then snug the This switch is just for looks, because
wire shielding onto the outside of the
third nut and fourth. Repeat this criss- ground switches are not needed
plug. Solder the four RCA plugs this
cross pattern of quarter-turns until all in modern amps with three-wire
way, on each end of the two cables.
four nuts have had one full turn. This grounding power cords. But having
will give proper tension to compress it there keeps the vintage 1960s look. These two cables will connect the
the speaker gasket. Overtightening reverb tank.
Mount the ground switch so it toggles
can warp the frame, damage the cone, left/right rather than up/down. Test for continuity between the tips
and cause unwanted distortion. of the plugs on each cable, then test
StewMac® ’66 D-Reverb 22W for continuity between the shields of
ICON KITS ORIGINAL AB763 CIRCUIT
the plugs in the same way.
DANGER: Unplug the amp before changing tubes.
Tube locations from left to right: Also test to make sure you don’t have
continuity between the tip and the
shield of each plug, which would
5AR4 6V6 6V6 12AT7 12AX7 12AX7 12AT7 12AX7 12AX7
(GZ34) (ECC81) (ECC83) (ECC83) (ECC81) (ECC83) (ECC83)
indicate a short in the cable. If your
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1 multimeter finds unwanted continu-
Use only 1-amp slow-blow fuse, size 5mm x 20mm. ity, the likely culprit is the inside (tip)
#10737
wire shorting to the outer shield. If

STEP 6 that happens, de-solder the tip con-
Glue the tube placement chart nection and redo that solder joint.
Cut out the tube replacement chart
on page 63. Put a thin coat of glue or
Criss-cross
contact cement on the back and glue
tightening it to the inside wall of the cabinet.
prevents warping.

Prepping the eyelet boards
Bias board Insulator

This circuit is built on three eyelet Insulator
boards: the large main eyelet board,
board
Main eyelet
the middle-sized filter cap board, and
the small bias board. Gather those
three boards now.
STEP 8
Number the eyelets and holes
In these instructions, we’ll refer to the
ard
eyelets and holes on the main eyelet STEP 9 Filter cap bo
board by number. On the bias board Match the boards + insulators
and filter cap board, we’ll use letters. For each of these three boards there
Orient the boards as shown below Insulator
is a matching blank insulator board of
and use a pencil to add the numbers the same size. These insulators will be
and letters. mounted behind the eyelet boards to
keep the electrical connections from
touching the metal chassis.
Align the three insulator boards
behind their eyelet boards. Tape the
pairs of boards together, to keep them
aligned for the next step.
26
24 25 27
23
21 22
Write these numbers + letters 17 18
19 20
45 37
on the boards: 14
15
16
35
36
36
Main
13 44
12
62 63
43
8 9 10 11
6 7 59
42 61 74
41 58
5
4 34 40
3 32 33 57
2 31 60 73
1 55 56 99
30 54 98
29 72 96 97
28 71
52 53 94 95
39 49 51
50 68 70 93
38 48 69 92
67 91 L
47 90
89 K M
88
86 87 J
46 85
66 84 I
83 H
64 65 82
81 C
79 80 B D G
78
77 A
Bias ap
75 76
Filter c
F
E
The red dots on these boards indicate
holes you’ll drill in the next steps. The S
R
main board and bias board each get P
Q
O
two small mounting holes that don’t N
M
need to be numbered.
STEP 10 G
The filter cap board will get three
holes drilled for wires to pass through Drill the filter cap boards
(holes G, M, and Q). Even though Drill 1/4" holes in the two upper cor-
those holes aren’t there yet, mark the ners of the taped-together filter cap
letters as shown while labeling the board and insulator (holes G and M).
rest of the holes. Drill a third 1/4" hole centered be-
tween eyelets P and R (hole Q).
Q
Separate the boards and set the insu-
lator board aside.

STEP 11 STEP 12
Drill the bias boards Drill the main boards
The small bias board mounts near the The main eyelet board needs to be
front left corner inside the chassis as centered between the grommet holes
indicated by the dotted line in the circled in red above.
photo above. Center the taped bias The right end of the board is 1/2" from
board and insulator over the two the side of the chassis. Position the
mounting holes. Holding the boards taped main board and insulator as
in place inside the chassis, use a sharp indicated by the dotted lines.
pencil from the outside to mark the
location of the two mounting holes Mark the mounting holes as you did
onto the boards. Drill two 3/16" with the bias boards. Drill two 3/16"
mounting holes, then separate the mounting holes through these boards
boards and set the insulator aside. and set the insulator aside.
Tips for great soldering!

n Don’t think of solder as glue. Good n Keep your soldering tip clean by n Trim away the excess wires after the
mechanical connections make good wiping it often on a damp sponge. joint has cooled.
electrical connections. Solder’s job Keep it tinned by occasionally melting n Plan ahead so each joint is only
is to finalize an already good joint, a little solder onto it.
soldered once. Resoldered joints are
not to hold the parts on the board. n Feed solder to the connection not messy and more likely to fail.
So wrap the leads tightly for good
to the iron. Keep the iron on the con-
electrical contact before soldering. n Position the parts so their specs face
nection for a second longer to allow out so you can read them later. Many
n Melt a small amount of solder onto time for all of the flux to cook out of builders also align resistor bands to
the tip of the iron (“tinning" the iron). the joint. read in the same direction.
Hold the tip against the joint for a few n Don’t ever blow on the hot solder
seconds, until the connection reaches n How much insulation to strip? With
or touch anything until the joint is
soldering temperature. plastic insulation, strip 3/8" from the
completely cool. A good solder joint wire ends. Push-back wire works best
Also tin component leads like multi- is shiny—a sign that it was left to cool when you strip away about 1/4" of the
strand wires to help the solder flow. undisturbed. cloth wrap.

PILOT INTENSITY SPEED REVERB BASS TREBLE VOLUME VIBRATO BASS TREBLE VOLUME NORMAL
2 1 2 1
0KA MA
1
25
POWER TRANSFORMER
(Mounted outside)
OUTPUT TRANSFORMER
FILTER CHOKE
(Mounted outside)
)
de
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
tsi
R
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
ou IVER
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 234 234 234 234 234
e d
2 1 2 1 2 1
nt D
ou RB
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1
(M REVE
VIBRATO REVERB REVERB REVERB

GROUND FUSE POWER STANDBY SPEAKER EXT. SPKR PEDAL PEDAL OUTPUT INPUT
3 lugs electrically
Snip joined share a
common ground
Solder
Wrap
Snip

Installing the chassis-mounted components
STEP 13 STEP 16 STEP 18 STEP 21

Mount the power transformer + Mount the reverb driver Install the speaker output jack Install the bias pot + one resistor
two three-lug grounding strips The reverb driver has red, blue, green, and Add the three-lug speaker output jack Mount the 10KL bias pot in the floor of the
The power transformer has ten leads black leads. Thread all four leads through next to the two-lug extension speaker chassis as shown. Wrap one lead of a 10K
color-coded in four pairs, plus a single the one grommet and twist the green and jack, which you’ve already installed. resistor through the left lug of the bias
red/yellow striped lead and a single red/ black leads as shown. pot and solder it into place. Solder the
These jacks are electrically grounded
blue striped lead. Twist the same-color other lead of this resistor to the housing
Use two 8-32 machine screws and through contact with the metal chassis,
pairs together. Feed the leads into the of the bias pot. It doesn’t matter which
locknuts to mount the reverb driver to so tighten them well for a good ground.
chassis through the square hole. direction this resistor is installed, because
the outside of the chassis.
STEP 19 resistors aren’t polarized.
Uncover the mounting bolts and install
STEP 17 Install the three large tube sockets
the transformer on the outside of the STEP 22
Mount the filter choke with tension clips
chassis, with four 8-32 locknuts inside. Install the fuse socket
Mount the two grounding strips at the The filter choke has two black leads. Orient these eight-pin tube sockets so
that pin 1 is closest to the rear panel of Mount the fuse socket so its side lug
corners as shown. Thread them through the grommeted
the chassis. faces the open side of the chassis. This
hole with the red, blue, and brown output
STEP 14 orientation makes it easier to solder later.
transformer leads. Use two 4-40 x 3/8" machine screws and
Install six rubber grommets
Use two 8-32 machine screws and locknuts to mount these sockets on the STEP 23
Squeeze these into the six holes as Install the power switch +
locknuts to mount the filter choke outside outside of the chassis. Include a tension
shown. These provide strain relief for the the standby switch
of the chassis. clip on the bottom of each socket to
wires that will pass through the metal Mount the power switch and the standby
provide support for the three tubes when
chassis. switch with their lugs facing up for easy
they’re installed later.
STEP 15
soldering later.
STEP 20
Mount the output transformer STEP 24
Install the six small tube sockets
The output transformer has red, blue, Install the four RCA jacks
Use two 4-40 x 1/4" machine screws and
brown, black, and green leads. Twist the Mount the RCA jacks to the chassis
locknuts to mount the six remaining tube
brown and blue leads together and the with the large washers on the outside.
sockets. Position these sockets so pin 3 is
green and black leads together. Once installed, bend the grounding
closest to the rear panel of the chassis.
Thread the green and black leads through tabs slightly away from the inside of the
one rubber grommet as shown. Thread chassis.
the red, brown and blue leads through
the grommet to the left as shown.
Use two 8-32 machine screws and
locknuts to mount the transformer to
the outside of the chassis.

47
2 1 2 1
KRA A 0KL 0KA 0KA MA 0KA 0KA MA
1
1
MR
3
10
25
25
25
25
50
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 234 234 234 234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1


Install the pilot lamp socket Install two resistors Install one capacitor + one resistor Install two more jumpers
Mount the socket by screwing the Run one lead of a 100K resistor up Run one lead of the 47pF capacitor Cut two more 2" yellow jumpers.
lens from the outside into the socket through the bottom of the left lug of the through the middle lug of the vibrato Wrap one end of the first jumper through
assembly. Position the socket so the arm speed pot and wrap it down through the channel volume pot. Run the other lead the middle lug of the normal channel
supporting the lamp faces the side wall middle lug of the same pot. Solder the of this cap through the right lug of the bass pot and wrap the other end of this
of the chassis and the tabs face up for resistor lead to both lugs. vibrato channel volume pot. Wrap these jumper through the left lug of the normal
soldering. leads around these lugs but do not solder
Solder the other lead of this resistor to channel treble pot. Solder this lead into
them yet.
Some amp builders add a drop of glue to the back of the speed pot. the left lug of the treble pot but not the
the mounting threads to keep vibrations Wrap one lead of a 6.8K resistor through middle lug of the bass pot.
Wrap one lead of a 6.8K resistor through
from high-volume playing from loosening the left lug of the normal channel bass
the left lug of the vibrato channel bass Wrap one end of the other jumper
the socket. pot and solder the lead to this lug.
pot and solder the lead to this lug. through the middle lug of the normal
STEP 26 Solder the 6.8K resistor’s other lead to channel treble pot and the other end of
Solder the 6.8K resistor’s other lead to
Install the remaining control pots the back of the normal channel bass pot. the same jumper through the right lug of
the back of the vibrato channel bass pot.
Mount the control pots so their three lugs the normal channel volume pot. Solder
STEP 29
are facing the chassis opening. When this lead into both lugs.
Install two jumpers
we refer to these lugs as left or right, it’s For neat looking wiring, STEP 31
Cut two 2" yellow jumpers.
assuming you’re looking at the pot from use wire strippers to Install vibrato channel jacks +
the same point of view as the wiring Wrap one end of the first jumper through
trim 1/4" of the insulation 1M resistor
diagram. Mount them as follows: the middle lug of the vibrato channel
from the ends of the Add vibrato channel instrument jacks 1
bass pot and wrap the other end of this
Vibrato Channel Intensity: 50KRA pot and 2. Position them so the center lug of
push-back wire. jumper through the left lug of the vibrato
Vibrato Channel Speed: 3MRA pot jack 2 is close to the left lug of jack 1 as
channel treble pot. Solder this lead in to
Vibrato Channel Reverb: 100KL pot pictured.
the left lug of the treble pot but not the
Vibrato Channel Bass: 250KA pot middle lug of the bass pot. Wrap one lead of a 1M resistor through
Vibrato Channel Treble: 250KA pot the right lug of jack 1 and wrap it onto
Wrap one end of the other jumper
Vibrato Channel Volume: 1MA pot the center lug of the same jack. Make sure
through the middle lug of the vibrato
Normal Channel Treble: 250KA pot the lead or the body of the resistor won’t
channel treble pot and the other end of
be in the way when an instrument cable
the same jumper through the right lug of
is plugged in.
the vibrato channel volume pot. Solder
this lead into both lugs. Run this resistor’s other lead through the
left lug of jack 1 and onto the center lug of
jack 2. Don’t solder these connections yet.

2 1 2 1
POWER TRANSFORMER
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 23 23
4 4
234 234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1


Install two 68K resistors on Install normal channel jacks + Power transformer black leads Power transformer red/yellow lead
the vibrato channel jacks 1M resistor Run either of the black wires from the Trim the power transformer’s red/yellow
Twist the leads of two 68K resistors Add normal channel instrument jacks 1 power transformer to the side lug of the lead to an appropriate length and solder
together, creating one connection. Wrap and 2. Position them so the center lug of fuse socket. Trim it to fit and solder it. Trim it to the grounding strip as shown.
the other lead from one resistor onto the jack 2 is close to the left lug of jack 1 as and solder the other black wire to the left
STEP 38
right lug of vibrato jack 2 as shown. pictured. lug on the power switch.
Power transformer red leads
Wrap the remaining resistor lead onto the Wrap one lead of a 1M resistor through STEP 36 Trim the power transformer’s red leads
left lug of vibrato jack 1, adding it to the the right lug of jack 1 and wrap it onto Power transformer green leads to an appropriate length and wrap one
connection made in the previous step. the center lug of the same jack. Make sure Run the two green wires from the power lead onto pin 4 of socket V9. The pins on
the lead or the body of the resistor won’t
Solder all these connections, and also transformer to the lugs on the pilot lamp the 8-pin sockets have upper and lower
be in the way when an instrument cable
solder the twisted 68K resistor leads. socket (either wire can go to either lug). eyelets for multiple connections.
is plugged in. Trim these wires to length and wrap Wrap the other red lead onto pin 6 of
Run this resistor’s other lead through the them onto the lugs. Don’t solder these the same socket. Don’t solder these red
left lug of jack 1 and onto the center lug of connections yet. leads yet.
jack 2. Don’t solder these connections yet.
STEP 39
STEP 34
Power transformer yellow leads
Install two 68K resistors on
Trim the power transformer’s yellow leads
the normal channel jacks
to an appropriate length. Wrap one of
Twist the leads of two 68K resistors
these leads onto pin 2 of socket V9.
together, creating one connection. Wrap
the other lead from one resistor onto the Wrap the other yellow lead onto pin 8
right lug of jack 2 as shown. of the same socket. Don’t solder these
yellow leads yet.
Wrap the remaining resistor lead onto
the left lug of jack 1, adding it to the
connection made in the previous step.
Solder all these connections, and also
solder the twisted 68K resistor leads.

2 1 2 1
9
78
1
56
234
V3
12AT7
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 23
4 234 234 234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1


Output transformer Add two jumpers Connect the reverb driver leads Add three more yellow jumpers
blue + brown leads Add a 1-1/2" yellow jumper between the Trim the green lead to reach the middle Cut one 2-1/2" yellow jumper. Wrap one
Trim the blue wire from the output right lug of the speaker jack and the right lug of the reverb input jack, tin it and end of this jumper in pin 8 of socket V1.
transformer to an appropriate length lug of the extension jack. Wrap these solder it to the lug. Wrap the other end of this jumper in pin
Ground
and wrap it onto pin 3 of socket V7. Don’t joints, but do not solder them yet. tab 8 of socket V2. Solder the connection at
Trim the black lead to reach the
solder this connection yet. pin 8 of V1.
Cut a 3/4" yellow jumper and remove the ground tab on the reverb input
Trim the brown wire from the output insulation. Add this short wire between jack. Tin it and solder it to this Cut two 1" yellow jumpers. Wrap one of
transformer to an appropriate length the speaker jack’s left lug and center lug. tab. them between pin 3 and pin 8 of socket
and wrap it onto pin 3 of socket V8. Don’t Solder the both ends. V4. Solder the connection at pin 3.
Trim the blue lead to reach pin 6 of socket
solder this connection yet.
STEP 42 V3. Tin it and wrap it onto the pin, but Wrap the second short jumper between
Leave the red output transformer lead Output transformer don’t solder it yet. pin 3 and pin 8 of socket V6. Solder the
free for now; you'll connect it later, when green + black leads connection at pin 3.
Leave the red lead free for now; you will
the eyelet board is installed. Trim these two wires to reach the speaker install it to the eyelet board later on.
jack and extension speaker jack.
STEP 44
Solder the green lead to the right lug of
Add three yellow jumpers
the speaker jack along with the jumper
Cut two 1" yellow jumpers. Wrap one of
from the previous step.
them between pin 2 and pin 7 of socket
Solder the black lead to the left lug of the V3. Solder the connection to pin 2.
extension speaker jack.
Wrap the second short jumper between
pin 3 and pin 8 of socket V3. Solder the
connection to pin 3.
Cut a 2-1/2" yellow jumper and connect it
between pins 1 and 6 on socket V3. Route
this jumper in a semicircle around the
back of the socket. Solder this jumper at
pin 1 and also at pin 6 where it joins the
blue wire from the reverb driver.

2 1 2 1
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 23
4 234 234 234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1


S TO P
Add two jumpers + one resistor Add four resistors Add three jumpers Stop and inspect your work
Cut one 1-1/4” yellow jumper. Wrap one Add one 1.5K resistor between pin 1 and Cut one 3-1/2" yellow jumper. Solder This is a good time to step away from the
end through the middle lug of the reverb pin 5 of socket V7. Solder both leads in one end to pin 6 of socket V8. Wrap one project for a few minutes. Take a break
output RCA jack and wrap the other end to place. end onto pin 6 of socket V7, but do not before reviewing your work for errors.
through the middle lug of the reverb solder it yet.
Add one 1.5K resistor between pin 1 and When you’re ready to go at it again, very
pedal RCA jack. Solder this jumper to the pin 5 of socket V8. Solder both leads in Cut one 3-1/2" green jumper. Solder one carefully walk through every connection
reverb output RCA jack. to place. end to pin 8 of socket V7. Wrap the other you’ve made so far. When everything
Add a 220K resistor between the middle end onto pin 8 of socket V8, but do not checks out, you’re ready to move on to
Add one 470Ω 1W resistor between pin 4
lug of the reverb pedal RCA jack and the solder it yet. the eyelet board.
and pin 6 of socket V7. Stand this resistor
ground lug of the vibrato pedal RCA jack.
up off the socket about half an inch. Cut one 3" green jumper. Wrap one end
Solder it in to the ground lug of the reverb
Solder the lead wrapped in pin 4. in pin 8 of socket V8. Wrap the other end Be suspicious
output RCA jack. through one of the lugs of the three-lug There's a mistake, and
Add one 470Ω 1W resistor between pin 4
Cut a 3-1/2” yellow jumper. Wrap one grounding strip closest to socket V8. you’re gonna find it!
and pin 6 of socket V8. Stand this resistor
end through the middle lug of the reverb up off the socket about half an inch. Solder both ends of this jumper.
output RCA jack and wrap the other end Solder the lead wrapped in pin 4.
through pin 2 of socket V4. Solder this
jumper at both ends.

How to install parts on an eyelet board in three steps
Wrap Inspect Solder
Don’t solder the components When all the parts are in place, Solder each connection point
as they go onto the eyelet stop and inspect. Go back over only once. Reheating to add
board. Instead wrap all the every step. Careful inspection another part makes a messy,
parts onto the board, bending is the best way to make sure faulty solder joint. Use the
their leads tightly so the parts your amp works the first time soldering tips on page 11 to
stay in place without solder. you turn it on. get professional results.
A B C
D
E F
+
25µF

Wrapping parts onto the bias board
STEP 49 STEP 51
Add one resistor Add two jumpers Set the bias board aside
The bias board is the smallest of the Add a 470Ω 1W resistor between eyelets Cut a 1-1/8" yellow jumper. Flip the bias Store the bias board somewhere that
three eyelet boards. Position it as shown A and B. board over and add this jumper between it won’t be disturbed. You’re ready to
above, with hole D to the upper right, eyelets C and F on the back of the board. turn your attention to the filter cap
Don’t solder these connections. You’ll
and the pair of mounting holes toward eyelet board.
solder the connections on both eyelet Cut a 4" yellow jumper. Wrap one end
the bottom.
boards later, after all their parts are through eyelet C and run the rest down
wrapped in place and double-checked. through hole D. Pull it tight to keep it in
place.
STEP 50
Add a capacitor and a diode STEP 52
Add a 25μF electrolytic capacitor between Add one jumper

eyelets E and F. Note the polarity of the Cut one 7" green jumper and wrap one
capacitor. Connect the cap’s negative end through eyelet E.
lead to eyelet F.
Add the rectifier diode between eyelets B
and C. Note the polarity. The positive lead
of the diode is indicated by a stripe at that
end. The end with no stripe is negative.
Connect the negative lead to eyelet C.

G
M
H I J K L
16μF
16μF
16μF
16μF
16μF
N O P Q R S

Wrapping parts onto the filter cap board
STEP 54 STEP 57
Add four jumpers Add four jumpers Set the filter cap board aside
The filter cap board is the medium-sized Cut four 1-1/2" green jumpers. Cut a 6" yellow jumper and wrap one Store the filter cap board somewhere that
of the three eyelet boards. Position it as end through eyelet L. Pull the other end it won’t be disturbed. You’re ready to turn
Wrap the first between eyelets N and O.
shown above, with the through holes in through hole M and pull it tight to keep your attention to the main eyelet board.
the top two corners. Wrap the second between eyelets O it in place.
and P.
STEP 53 Cut a 7" yellow jumper and wrap one
Wrap the third between eyelets R and S. end through eyelet J. Pull the other end
Add five capacitors
Add a 16μF electrolytic capacitor between Wrap the fourth between eyelets K and L. through hole M and pull it tight to keep
eyelets H and N. Note the polarity of the it in place.
STEP 55
capacitor. Connect the cap’s negative Cut an 8" yellow jumper and wrap one
Add two resistors
lead to eyelet N. end through eyelet I. Pull the other end
Add a 10K 2W resistor between eyelets
Add another 16μF electrolytic capacitor through hole M and pull it tight to keep
H and I.
between eyelets I and O. Note the polarity it in place.
Add another 10K 2W resistor between
of the capacitor. Connect the cap’s Cut a 3" yellow jumper and wrap one
eyelets I and J.
negative lead to eyelet O. end through eyelet H. Pull the other end
Add a third 16μF electrolytic capacitor STEP 56 through hole G and pull it tight to keep
between eyelets J and P. Note the polarity Add four jumpers it in place.
of the capacitor. Connect the cap’s Cut two 6" green jumpers.
negative lead to eyelet P. Wrap one end of one through eyelet S.
Add a fourth 16μF electrolytic capacitor Pull the other end through hole M and
between eyelets K and R. Note the pull it tight to keep it in place.
polarity of the capacitor. Connect the Wrap one end of the other jumper
cap’s negative lead to eyelet R. through eyelet N. Pull the other end
Add a fifth 16μF electrolytic capacitor through hole G and pull it tight to keep
between eyelets L and S. Note the polarity it in place.
of the capacitor. Connect the cap’s Cut two 6" yellow jumpers and twist them
negative lead to eyelet S. together tight.
Wrap one end of each jumper through
eyelet J. Then run the twisted leads
through hole Q and pull them tight to
keep them in place.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31
34 44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
25µ F
250
46 48 55 58 61 62 63
104J 600V
47 50 54
25µ F
+
51 52
104J 600V
53 56 57 60
473J 600V
473J 600V
+
64 71
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99

Wrapping parts onto the main eyelet board

Install a 100K resistor + one jumper  Add two jumpers Install another 25μF cap + a 1.5K
The main eyelet board is the largest of the Add a 100K resistor between eyelets 98 Cut a 2" jumper and add it to eyelet 97. resistor, soldered together
three eyelet boards. Position it as shown and 99. Wrap the leads from the 1.5K resistor
Cut a 2-3/4" jumper and add it to eyelet
above, with hole 27 in the top right and around the leads on the 25μF 50V
Cut a 1-1/4" yellow jumper, flip the board 98.
hole 75 in the bottom left. capacitor and solder them together. Note
over, and add the jumper behind the Cut a 10-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the the polarity of the capacitor.
STEP 58 board between eyelets 63 and 98. board over and wrap this jumper through
Install a .1μF cap + one jumper
+
STEP 61 the bottom of eyelet 23. Run the other 95 25μF

21
Wrap a .1μF Orange Drop cap between Install a 250pF cap + one jumper end of this jumper up through hole 22 Positive Negative
eyelets 26 and 99. This capacitor does not Add a 250pF silver mica cap between and pull it tight so it stays in place.
have polarity and can be installed facing Install this resistor/capacitor assembly
eyelets 45 and 63. STEP 65 between eyelets 21 and 95, making sure
either direction.
Cut a 6-3/4" yellow jumper. Turn the Install a 25μF cap + a 1.5K resistor, the capacitor’s negative lead goes to
Cut a 7-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the board board over and wrap this jumper through soldered together eyelet 21.
over and wrap this jumper through the the bottom of eyelet 45. Run the other Wrap the leads from the 1.5K resistor
bottom of eyelet 26. Run the other end of STEP 67
end of this jumper up through hole 24 around the leads on the 25μF 50V
this jumper up through hole 25 and pull Add two jumpers
and pull it tight so it stays in place. capacitor and solder them together. Note
it tight so it stays in place. the polarity of the capacitor. Cut a 3-1/2" yellow jumper and wrap one
STEP 62 end through eyelet 96.
STEP 59 Positive Negative
Install two 100K resistors
+
25μF Cut one 3-1/4" yellow jumper and wrap
96
21
Install a .047μF cap + one jumper

Add a 100K resistor between eyelets 62 one end through eyelet 95.
Add a .047μF Orange Drop capacitor and 98.
between eyelets 37 and 99. This cap is Install this resistor/capacitor assembly STEP 68
not polarized and can be installed facing Add another 100K resistor between
between eyelets 21 and 96, making sure Add a .1μF cap + one jumper
either direction. eyelets 62 and 97.
the capacitor’s negative lead goes to Add a .1μF Orange Drop cap between
Cut a 7" yellow jumper. Turn the board STEP 63 eyelet 21. eyelets 19 and 94.
over and wrap this jumper through the Install a .047μF cap Cut a 10-3/4" yellow jumper. Turn the
bottom of eyelet 37. Run the other end of Add a .047μF Orange Drop cap between board over and wrap this jumper through
this jumper up through hole 24 and pull eyelets 23 and 97. the bottom of eyelet 19. Run the other
it tight so it stays in place. end of this jumper up through hole 18
and pull it tight so it stays in place.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31
34 44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
25µF
250
48
510+
46 55 58 61 62 63
25µ F
47 50 51 52 54 56
+
60
53
473J 600V
+
57
64 71
332J 600V
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
223J 600V
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 104J 600V
87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99

Install a .047μF cap + one jumper Install two 100K resistors Install a 500pF cap + 1M resistor Add three jumpers
Add a .047μF Orange Drop capacitor Add a 100K resistor between eyelets 60 Add a 500pF silver mica cap between Cut a 4-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the board
between eyelets 36 and 94. and 93. eyelets 43 and 58. over and wrap this jumper through the
bottom of eyelet 43. Run the other end of
Cut an 11-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the Add another 100K resistor between Add a 1M resistor between eyelets 16
this jumper up through hole 72 and pull
board over and wrap this jumper through eyelets 60 and 92. and 43.
it tight so it stays in place.
the bottom of eyelet 36. Run the other
STEP 73 STEP 76
end of this jumper up through hole 17 Add a 4" yellow jumper to eyelet 91.
Install one jumper Install a 25μF cap + an 820Ω
and pull it tight so it stays in place.
Cut a 1-1/2" yellow jumper, flip the board resistor, soldered together Add a 2-3/4" yellow jumper to eyelet 90.
STEP 70 over and add the jumper behind the Wrap the leads from the 820Ω resistor STEP 79
Install a 100K resistor + one jumper board between eyelets 35 and 60. around the leads on the 25μF 50V Add .0033μF cap + one resistor
Add a 100K resistor between eyelets 93 capacitor and solder them together. Note
STEP 74 Add a .0033μF Orange Drop capacitor
and 94. the polarity of the capacitor.
Install two 100K resistors between eyelets 42 and 89.
Positive Negative
Cut a 1-1/4" yellow jumper, flip the board Add a .022μF Orange Drop cap between
+
25μF Add a 100K resistor between eyelets 56
91
16
over and add the jumper behind the eyelets 92 and 58. and 89.
board between eyelets 61 and 93.
Add a 5" yellow jumper to eyelet 93. Install this resistor/capacitor assembly STEP 80
STEP 71
Add a 3-1/2" yellow jumper to eyelet 92. between eyelets 16 and 91, making sure Add one resistor + one capacitor
Install a 250pF cap + one jumper the capacitor’s negative lead goes to Add a 100K resistor between eyelets 56
Add a 250pF cap between eyelets 44 eyelet 16. and 87.
and 61.
STEP 77 Add a .1μF Orange Drop capacitor
Cut a 9-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the board
Install another 25μF cap + a 2.2K between eyelets 55 and 87.
over and wrap this jumper through the
resistor, soldered together
Wrap the leads from the 2.2K resistor
around the leads on the 25μF 50V
capacitor and solder them together. Note
the polarity of the capacitor.
+
25μF
90
16
Positive Negative
Install this resistor/capacitor assembly

between eyelets 16 and 90, making sure
the capacitor’s negative lead goes to
eyelet 16.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31 10
34 pF
44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
25µF
25µ F
.01μF
46 48 55 58 61 62 63
47 50 51 52 54 +
56 60
53 + 57
64 71
.01μF
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
.02μF

Add two jumpers Add two resistors Add four jumpers Add three capacitors
Cut a 9" yellow jumper. Turn the board Add a 470K resistor between eyelets 14 Cut a 3-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the board Add a .01μF ceramic disk cap between
over and wrap this jumper through the and 41. over and wrap this jumper through the eyelets 34 and 54.
bottom of eyelet 42. Run the other end of bottom of eyelet 41. Run the other end
Add a 220K resistor between eyelets 12 Add a .01μF ceramic disk cap between
this jumper up through hole 13 and pull of this jumper up through hole 70 and
and 41. eyelets 54 and 68.
it tight so it stays in place. pull it tight so it stays in place.
STEP 85 Add a .02μF ceramic disk cap between
Add a 2-1/2" yellow jumper to eyelet 89. Cut a 9-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the board
Install a 25μF cap + an 820Ω eyelets 68 and 83.
STEP 82 resistor, soldered together
bottom of eyelet 14. Run the other end STEP 90
Add two jumpers Wrap the leads from the 820Ω resistor
of this jumper up through hole 13 and Add four jumpers
Cut a 6-1/4" yellow jumper. Turn the board around the leads on the 25μF 50V
pull it tight so it stays in place. Cut a 6-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the board
over and wrap this jumper through the capacitor and solder them together. Note
Add a 1-3/4" yellow jumper to eyelet 86. over and wrap this jumper through the
bottom of eyelet 55. Run the other end the polarity of the capacitor.
of this jumper up through hole 13 and Positive Negative Add a 3" yellow jumper to eyelet 85. this jumper up through hole 84 and pull
+
pull it tight so it stays in place. 25μF
86
12
STEP 88 it tight so it stays in place.
Add a 2-1/4" yellow jumper to eyelet 87. Add three resistors Cut a 4-1/2" yellow jumper. Wrap one end
Install this assembly between eyelets Add a 1M resistor between eyelets 11 through eyelet 34 and run the other end
STEP 83
12 and 86, making sure the capacitor’s and 54. down through hole 40. Flip the board
Add 10pF cap + one resistor
negative lead goes to eyelet 12. over, pull this jumper back up through
Add a 10pF capacitor and a 3.3M resistor Add a 1M resistor between eyelets 11
between eyelets 15 and 41. STEP 86 and 34. hole 84 and pull it tight to keep it in place.
Install another 25μF cap + a 2.7K Add a 2.2M resistor between eyelets 10 Cut a 3" yellow jumper. Turn the board
resistor, soldered together over and wrap this jumper through the
and 11.
Wrap the leads from the 2.7K resistor bottom of eyelet 54. Run the other end of
around the leads on the 25μF 50V this jumper up through hole 69 and pull
capacitor and solder them together. Note it tight so it stays in place.
Add a 2-1/2" yellow jumper to eyelet 83.
+
25μF
85
12
Positive Negative
Install this assembly between eyelets

12 and 85, making sure the capacitor’s
negative lead goes to eyelet 12.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 18 19 21 23 25 26
13 17 24
28 29 33 11 36 20 37
30 32 35
31 22 27
34 44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
25µF
46 48 55 58 62 63
47 50 +
51 52 56 60 61
53 54 57
64 71
65 68 69
66 67 70 72 73 74
102J 1119
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99

Add two jumpers Install the optocoupler Add three jumpers Add three resistors
Cut a 10" yellow jumper. Wrap one end Orient the optocoupler as shown in the Cut a 10" yellow jumper. Turn the board Add a 47Ω resistor between eyelets 5
through eyelet 68 and run the other wiring diagram, with the side with the over and wrap this jumper through the and 6.
end down through hole 53. Flip the dot between eyelets 51 and 52. Wrap one bottom of eyelet 8. Run the other end of Add a 220K resistor between eyelets 32
board over, pull this jumper back up lead of the dot side of the optocoupler this jumper up through hole 9 and pull it and 50.
through hole 33 and pull it tight to keep through eyelet 51 and the other lead from tight so it stays in place.
it in place. that side through eyelet 52. Wrap the Add a 220K resistor between eyelets 31
other end's leads through eyelets 7 and 8. and 50.
Cut an 9-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn over and wrap this jumper through the
the board over and wrap this jumper This little device is what controls the bottom of eyelet 51. Run the other end STEP 97
through the bottom of eyelet 10. Run vibrato for the amp. The end with the dot of this jumper up through hole 67 and Install three resistors + one
the other end of this jumper up through has an LED and the other end is a light- pull it tight so it stays in place. capacitor
hole 9 and pull it tight so it stays in place. dependent resistor. The speed control Add a 1M resistor between eyelets 49
Add a 1/2" bare wire between eyelets
determines the frequency at which the and 80.
STEP 92 6 and 7.
LED flashes, and the intensity control Add a 470Ω resistor between eyelets 49
Add three resistors determines how much of the guitar STEP 95
Add a 220K resistor between eyelets and 79.
signal is affected by the light-dependent Install another 25μF cap + a 100K
82 and 83. resistor. resistor, soldered together Add another 1M resistor between eyelets
Add a 100K resistor between eyelets Wrap the leads from the 100K resistor 49 and 78.
52 and 82. around the leads on the 25μF 50V Add a .001μF Orange Drop cap between
capacitor and solder them together. Note eyelets 50 and 80.
Add a 10M resistor between eyelets 51
and 82.
Positive Negative
+
6
25μF
81
Install this assembly between eyelets

6 and 81, making sure the capacitor’s
negative lead goes to eyelet 6.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 18 19 21 23 25 26
13 17 24
33 11 36 20 37
29 30 32 35
31 22 27
28
34 44 45
39 40 41 43
42
38 49 59
46 48
47 50 51 52 55 58 62 63
56 60 61
104J 600V
53
104J 600V
54 57
104J 600V
64 71
65 68 69
66 67 70 72 73 74
75 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
76

Add two resistors + one capacitor Add four resistors Add three jumpers
Add a 22K resistor between eyelet 5 and Add an 82K resistor between eyelets 47 Cut a 3-3/4" yellow jumper. Turn the board Cut a 7-3/4" yellow jumper. Turn the board
49. and 77. over and wrap this jumper through the over and wrap this jumper through the
bottom of eyelet 39. Run the other end bottom of eyelet 1. Run the other end of
Add an 820Ω resistor between eyelets Add a 100K resistor between eyelets 47
of this jumper up through hole 30 and this jumper up through hole 28 and pull
5 and 48. and 76.
pull it tight so it stays in place. it tight so it stays in place.
Add a .1μF Orange Drop cap between Add a 220K resistor between eyelets 3
Add a 3/4" bare wire between eyelets Cut another 7-3/4" yellow jumper. Turn
eyelets 5 and 78. and 39.
2 and 29. the board over and also wrap this jumper
STEP 99 Add a 220K resistor between eyelets 4 through the bottom of eyelet 1. Run the
Add another 3/4" bare wire between
Add three jumpers and 39. other end of this jumper up through hole
eyelets 46 and 64.
Add a 2-1/4" yellow jumper to eyelet 81. 28 and pull it tight so it stays in place.
STEP 102
STEP 105
Add a 3" yellow jumper to eyelet 80. Add two .1μF caps Your mind is not playing tricks on you
Add four more jumpers here; you really need two jumpers of
Add a .1μF Orange Drop cap between
Cut an 11" yellow jumper. Turn the board Cut a 7-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the board
eyelets 4 and 77. the same length coming from eyelet 1
over and wrap this jumper through the over and wrap this jumper through the through hole 28.
bottom of eyelet 32. Run the other end Add another .1μF Orange Drop cap bottom of eyelet 64. Run the other end of
of this jumper up through hole 9 and pull between eyelets 3 and 76. this jumper up through hole 75 and pull
it tight so it stays in place. it tight so it stays in place.
STEP 103
STEP 100 Add four jumpers Cut a 4" yellow jumper. Turn the board
Add three more jumpers Add a 4" yellow jumper to eyelet 77. over and wrap this jumper through the
Add a 2" yellow jumper to eyelet 79. bottom of eyelet 29. Run the other end
Add a 3-1/4" yellow jumper to eyelet 76.
of this jumper up through hole 38 and
Add a 2" yellow jumper to eyelet 78. Cut a 6-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the board pull it tight so it stays in place.
Cut an 8-1/2" yellow jumper. Turn the over and wrap this jumper through the
board over and wrap this jumper through bottom of eyelet 4. Run the other end of
the bottom of eyelet 48. Run the other this jumper up through hole 65 and pull
end of this jumper up through hole 66 it tight so it stays in place.
and pull it tight so it stays in place. Cut a 7" yellow jumper. Turn the board

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 18 19 21 23 25 26
13 17 24
33 11 36 20 37
29 30 32 35
31 22 27
28
34 44 45
39 40 41 43
42
38 49 59
46 48
47 50 51 52 55 58 62 63
53 54 56 57 60 61
64 71
65 68 69
66 67 70 72 73 74
75 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
76

PA U S E
Two flying jumpers Installing flying jumpers Add four jumpers Stop and review
Flying jumpers are wires that travel over Use a multimeter to find the flying jumper Cut a 6" yellow jumper and an 8-1/4" Now all the components and wires are on
the board, jumping from one eyelet to with continuity to eyelet 23. Wrap the free yellow jumper. Mark the ends of the the eyelet board. Stop and take a break
another. These are very common in classic end of that jumper to eyelet 31. 6" wire with a black marker. Pass both so you’ll have fresh eyes to review your
point-to-point circuits. wires down through hole 27 and back up work before soldering.
The other flying jumper should have
through hole 74.
The first flying jumper is the one you've continuity to eyelet 55. Wrap the free end Make sure you’ve followed each step
installed coming from hole 22. It needs of this jumper to eyelet 32. Cut two 11" yellow jumpers and mark the correctly. It would be surprising to find
to run to the left, along the top edge of ends of one with a black marker. Pass both no mistakes at this point, and it’s much
STEP 109
the eyelet board until it gets to hole 13. wires down through hole 20 and back up less work to find and fix them now rather
Add three behind-the-board
There it will be twisted in line with the through hole 73. than after soldering!
jumpers
behind-the-board lead from eyelet 55,
Cut a 2-3/4" yellow jumper. Turn the board STEP 111 As you’re checking your work, make
coming through hole 13.
over and wrap this jumper through the Add four ground jumpers sure all your connections are tight. Don’t
STEP 107 bottom of eyelet 35. Wrap the other end Cut four 3" green jumpers. count on solder to “glue” your joints—
Twisting flying jumpers of this jumper through the bottom of make them mechanically tight before
Add the first to eyelet 21. solder is ever applied.
Carefully twist these two flying jumpers eyelet 62.
together toward the left side of the board Add the second to eyelet 16.
while making sure not to disturb their over and wrap this jumper through the Add the third to eyelet 12.
wrapped connections on the eyelets. bottom of eyelet 35. Wrap the other end Add the fourth to eyelet 6.
You want the leads to be up and away of this jumper through the bottom of
from components. Stop twisting them eyelet 56.
together once you are above eyelets 31
and 32. They will be connecting to these Cut a 2-1/4" yellow jumper. Turn the board
eyelets. over and wrap this jumper through the
bottom of eyelet 15. Wrap the other end
of this jumper through the bottom of
eyelet 58.

2 1 2 1
Insulator
Board
A B C
D Insulator
Board
E F
+
25µF 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31 10
34 pF
44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
25µF
25µ F
25µ F
25µF
250
250
25µF
.01μF
48
510+
46 55 58 61 62 63
104J 600V
25µF
47 50 54
25µF
+
+ 51 52 + +
104J 600V
56 60
104J 600V
53
104J 600V
473J 600V
+ 57
473J 600V
473J 600V
104J 600V
332J 600V
+ +
64 71
.01μF
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
222J 600V
102J 1119
104J 600V
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
.02μF
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 234 234 234 234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1


STEP 112 STEP 113
Solder the components Install all three eyelet boards,
on the eyelet boards backed by their insulator boards
Now that the components and jumpers Before installing the main eyelet board To install the filter cap eyelet board, This filter cap eyelet board will not be
are on the boards and double-checked and insulator board in the chassis, make flip the chassis over. Run the jumpers mounted with screws but rather held on
for correct placement, its time to set the sure you have enough length on the through the eyelet board and through by the jumper wires. Once you have the
connections with solder. Review "Tips for unsoldered jumpers coming through the insulation board and then align the boards flush with the back side of the
great soldering" on page 11. holes 27 and 74, and holes 20 and 73, to filter cap board with the grommets and chassis, bend the jumpers over inside the
reach their components. The best way pass the jumpers through the grommets. chassis to keep the board tight to the back
After all the joints are soldered, clip the
to do this is to lay the eyelet board on of the chassis.
excess leads on the front and back of the
the floor of the chassis where it will be
boards. Trimming the excess is important
mounted and adjust these jumpers until
to avoid a short in your circuit.
they reach their components.
Check all your solder joints to see that Insulator board
To install the main eyelet board, first
they’re shiny and to make sure that you G
lay the main insulation board on the M
haven’t missed one. H I J K L
bottom of the chassis, aligning it with
the mounting holes. Run a 6-32 x 1/2"
machine screw through the eyelet board,
16μF
16μF
16μF
16μF
16μF
the insulation board and through the

chassis. Secure it with a locknut on the
outside of the chassis. Do the same with
the second bolt. N O P Q R S
Install the bias board in the same manner:

insulation board down first, eyelet board
on top, mounted with two sets of 6-32
hardware.

2 1 2 1
0KA 0KA
25
25
A B C
D
E F 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31
34 44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
46 48 55 58 61 62 63
47 50 51 52 54 56 60
53 57
64 71
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 23 23
4 4 234 234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1


Solder the filter cap board jumpers Solder the filter cap board jumpers, Solder tube socket V8 Solder tube socket V6
Pull the two jumpers coming through the cont. Test the two jumpers coming from hole Wrap the jumper from eyelet 76 to pin 6
grommeted hole between tube socket V4 Solder filter cap board jumpers, cont. 65 to identify the one with continuity of the V6 tube socket.
and tube socket V5 until they are tight. Pull the four jumpers coming through to eyelet 3. Wrap this jumper to pin 1 of Wrap the jumper from eyelet 77 to pin 1
the grommeted hole behind the vibrato tube socket V8.
Solder one of these jumpers to eyelet 82. of the V6 tube socket.
channel treble pot until they are tight. Solder all connections to this socket (five
Solder the other jumper to eyelet 88. Wrap the jumper from eyelet 78 to pin 7
Solder the green jumper to the back of wires, four resistor leads) and trim excess of the V6 tube socket.
STEP 115 wire ends.
the vibrato channel treble pot.
Solder the filter cap board jumpers, Wrap the jumper from eyelet 79 to pin
Solder the jumper with continuity to STEP 119 8 of the V6 tube socket along with the
cont.
eyelet L to eyelet 1. Solder tube socket V7 jumper already in place.
Pull the two jumpers coming through
the grommeted hole behind the normal Test the remaining jumper coming from
Solder the jumper with continuity to Wrap the jumper from eyelet 80 to pin 2
channel bass pot until they are tight. hole 65 to make sure it has continuity
eyelet J to eyelet 2. of the V6 tube socket.
to eyelet 4. Wrap this jumper to pin 1 of
Solder the yellow jumper to eyelet 35. Solder the jumper with continuity to tube socket V7. Solder the connections to this socket (six
Solder the green jumper to the back of eyelet I to eyelet 47. You will have to run wires) and trim the excess wire ends.
Wrap the yellow jumper from hole 38 to
the normal channel bass pot. this jumper underneath the .1μF Orange
pin 6 of tube socket V7 along with the
Drop cap installed between eyelets 4
resistor lead in place.
and 77.
Solder all connections to this socket (five
STEP 117
wires, four resistor leads) and trim excess
Solder tube socket V9 wire ends.
Wrap one of the 7-3/4" yellow jumpers
from hole 28 to pin 8 on tube socket V9
along with the yellow power transformer
lead.
Solder all connections to this socket (five
wires) and trim the excess wire ends.

2 1 2 1
A B C
D
E F 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31
34 44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
46 48 55 58 61 62 63
47 50 51 52 54 56 60
53 57
64 71
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 234 234 23
4
234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1


Solder tube socket V5 Solder tube socket V4 Solder tube socket V2 Solder four jumpers to
Wrap the jumper from hole 67 to pin 6 of Wrap the jumper from eyelet 87 to pin 6 Wrap the jumper from eyelet 92 to pin 6 components on the back panel
the V5 tube socket. of the V4 tube socket. of the V2 tube socket. The last unsoldered jumper coming from
hole 84 should have continuity to eyelet
Wrap the jumper from eyelet 83 to pin 1 Wrap the jumper from eyelet 89 to pin 1 Wrap the jumper from eyelet 93 to pin 1
11. Solder this jumper to the middle lug
of the V5 tube socket. of the V4 tube socket. of the V2 tube socket.
of the vibrato pedal RCA jack.
Make sure the jumper coming from hole Wrap the jumper from hole 70 to pin 7 of Wrap the unmarked jumper from hole 73
Solder the jumper from hole 66 to the
69 has continuity to eyelet 54. Wrap this the V4 tube socket. to pin 7 of the V2 tube socket.
right lug (tip connection) of the extension
jumper to pin 7 of the V5 tube socket. Wrap the jumper from eyelet 86 to pin Wrap the marked jumper from hole 73 to speaker jack along with the jumper in
Wrap the jumper from eyelet 81 to pin 8 8 of the V4 tube socket with the jumper pin 2 of the V2 tube socket. place.
of the V5 tube socket. already in place. Wrap the jumper from eyelet 91 to pin Solder the other jumper from hole 28 to
Test the two jumpers coming from hole Solder the connections to this socket (six 8 of the V2 tube socket with the jumper the left lug of the standby switch.
84 to identify the one with continuity to wires) and trim the excess wire ends. already in place.
eyelet 34. Wrap this jumper to pin 2 of
STEP 123 Wrap the jumper from eyelet 95 to pin 3 right lug of the standby switch.
tube socket V5.
Solder tube socket V3 of the V2 tube socket.
Wrap the jumper from eyelet 85 to pin 3 STEP 127
Wrap the jumper from hole 72 to pin 7 Solder the connections to this socket (six
of tube socket V5. Solder the normal
of the V3 tube socket with the jumper wires) and trim the excess wire ends. channel input jacks
Solder the connections to this socket (six already in place.
STEP 125 Slide 1" of 1/8" heat-shrink tubing over
wires) and trim the excess wire ends. Wrap the jumper from eyelet 90 to pin Solder tube socket V1 the marked jumper coming from through
8 of the V3 tube socket with the jumper hole 27. Solder this jumper to the twisted
Wrap the jumper from eyelet 97 to pin 6
already in place. pair of 68k resistor leads coming from the
of the V1 tube socket.
Solder the connections to this socket (six normal channel input jacks and apply
Wrap the jumper from eyelet 98 to pin 1 heat to the heat-shrink tubing to seal it
wires) and trim the excess wire ends. of the V1 tube socket. to the solder joint.
Wrap the unmarked jumper from hole 74 Solder the green jumper from eyelet 21
to pin 7 of the V1 tube socket. to the left lug (shield connection) of the
Wrap the marked jumper from hole 74 to input 2 jack.
pin 2 of the V1 tube socket. Solder any unsoldered resistor leads into
Wrap the jumper from eyelet 96 to pin 3 place on the input jacks now.
of the V1 tube socket. Trim the excess wires.
Solder the connections to this socket (six
wires) and trim the excess wire ends.
2 1 2 1
0KL 0KA 0KA MA 0KL 0KA MA
1
1
10
25
25
25
25
A B C
D
E F 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31
34 44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
46 48 55 58 61 62 63
47 50 51 52 54 56 60
53 57
64 71
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 23 23
4 4 234 234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1


Solder normal channel volume pot Solder normal channel bass pot Solder vibrato channel volume pot Solder vibrato channel bass pot
Solder the unmarked jumper coming Twist together the two jumpers coming Solder the unmarked jumper coming Find the jumper coming through hole 18
through hole 27 to the middle lug of the from hole 24. through hole 20 to the middle lug of the that has continuity to eyelet 19. Solder
volume pot. vibrato channel volume pot along with this jumper to the middle lug of the
Find the jumper coming through hole 24
the capacitor lead already in place. vibrato channel bass pot along with the
Cut a 1” green jumper and remove the that has continuity to eyelet 26. Solder
jumper already in place.
insulation. Bend this jumper in a “J” shape this jumper to the middle lug of the Cut a 1” green jumper and remove the
and run it from the left lug of the volume normal channel bass pot along with the insulation. Bend this jumper in a “J” shape Find the jumper coming through hole 17
pot to the back of the volume pot. Solder jumper already in place. and run it from the left lug of the volume that has continuity to eyelet 36. Solder
it in both places. pot to the back of the vibrato channel this jumper to the left lug of the vibrato
volume pot. Solder it in both places. channel bass pot along with the resistor
STEP 129 that has continuity to eyelet 37. Solder
lead already in place.
Solder normal channel treble pot this jumper to the left lug of the normal Also solder the green jumper from eyelet
Find the jumper coming through hole 25 channel bass pot along with the resistor 12 to the back of the vibrato channel Also solder the green jumper from eyelet
that has continuity to eyelet 45. Solder lead already in place. volume pot. 6 to the back of the vibrato channel bass
this jumper to the right lug of the normal pot.
STEP 131 STEP 133
channel treble pot. Solder vibrato channel input jacks Solder vibrato channel treble pot STEP 135
Solder the jumpers in the center and Slide 1" of 1/8" heat-shrink tubing over Find the jumper coming through hole 18 Solder the reverb pot
left lugs of the treble pot if you have not the marked jumper coming from through that has continuity to eyelet 44. Solder Find the jumper coming through hole 13
done so. hole 20. Solder this jumper to the twisted this jumper to the right lug of the vibrato that has continuity to eyelet 42. Solder
pair of 68K resistor leads coming from the channel treble pot. this jumper to the right lug of the reverb
vibrato channel input jacks and apply pot.
Solder the jumpers in the center and left
heat to the heat-shrink tubing to seal it lugs of the vibrato channel treble pot if Find the jumper coming through hole 13
to the solder joint. you have not done so. that has continuity to eyelet 14. Solder
Solder the green jumper from eyelet 16 this jumper to the middle lug of the
to the left lug (shield connection) of the reverb pot.
input 2 jack. Cut a 1” green jumper and remove the
Solder any unsoldered resistor leads into insulation. Bend this jumper in a “J” shape
place on the input jacks now. and run it from the left lug of the reverb
pot to the back of the reverb pot. Solder
Trim the excess wires.
it in both places.

2 1 2 1
KRA A
MR
50
A B C
D
E F 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31
34 44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
46 48 55 58 61 62 63
47 50 51 52 54 56 60
53 57
64 71
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 23 23
4 4 234 234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1


Solder the speed pot Solder two transformer leads Solder bias pot jumpers Solder two filter choke leads
Find the jumper coming through hole 33 Find the red lead from the output Solder the jumper from hole D to the right Find the two black leads coming through
that has continuity to eyelet 68. Solder transformer coming through the lug of the bias pot. the grommeted hole between tube
this jumper to the right lug of the speed grommeted hole between the 6V6 sockets V7 and V8.
pot. tubes. Trim it to an appropriate length middle lug of the bias pot. Solder one of these leads to eyelet 29.
and solder it to eyelet 46.
Solder the 6.8K resistor lead in the center
STEP 141 Solder the other lead to eyelet 64.
and left lugs of the speed pot if you have Find the red lead from the reverb driver
Add two resistors
not done so. coming through the grommeted hole STEP 143
between tube socket V3 and tube socket Twist the leads of two 100Ω resistors Install two green jumpers
STEP 137 together and apply solder to keep them
V4. Trim it to an appropriate length and Cut two 15-1/2” green jumpers and
Solder the intensity pot joined. Wrap the two resistors’ other leads
solder it to eyelet 88. twist them together, leaving one inch of
One of the wires coming through hole 9 onto the pilot lamp lugs along with the
untwisted wire on each side. Wrap the
will have continuity to eyelet 32 and one STEP 139 green power transformer leads. Do not two wires from one side of this twisted
of them will have continuity to eyelet Solder bias board jumpers solder these yet. pair through the two lugs of the pilot
8. Find these two wires and twist them Solder the green jumper from eyelet E of Solder the twisted leads to eyelet E on lamp assembly. Solder these leads into
together. the bias board to the nearby three-lug the bias board. place with the two 100Ω resistors and the
grounding strip.
Find the jumper coming through hole 9 green power transformer leads.
that has continuity to eyelet 32. Solder Solder the red/blue lead from the power Route these twisted jumpers around the
this jumper to the right lug of the intensity transformer to eyelet A of the bias board. edge of the chassis to reach socket V8,
pot. Solder the jumper from hole D to the right but leave room for the chassis mounting
Find the jumper coming through hole 9 lug of the bias pot. screws to make it through their holes.
that has continuity to eyelet 8. Solder this These are the two holes very close to the
jumper to the middle lug of the intensity left wall of the inside of the chassis.
that has continuity to eyelet 10. Solder
pot. this jumper to eyelet C of the bias board.
Cut a 1” green jumper and remove the
insulation. Bend this jumper in a “J” shape
and run it from the left lug of the intensity
pot to the back of the intensity pot. Solder
it in both places.

2 1 2 1
A B C
D
E F 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31
34 44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
46 48 55 58 61 62 63
47 50 51 52 54 56 60
53 57
64 71
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78
7
7
78 78 78
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
8
8
3
8
234 234 234 234 234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1

Step 147:
Twist pins 4+5 together
on these sockets.

Install the heater wires Connect to tube socket V7 Connect to tube socket V6 Connect to tube socket V5
Review these steps very carefully before Cut two 6" heater wires, one white and On sockets V6 through V1 you will need Cut two 4" heater wires, one white and
you start installing the heater wires that one black. Twist them tightly together. to join pins 4 and 5 together. On these one black. Twist them tightly together.
power the heating filaments in the tubes. six sockets, gently twist pins 4 and pin 5
Twist the end of the white wire to the Twist the like-colored wires of this new
toward each other so their eyelets line up.
The twisted green wires from the power white jumper coming from V8. Twist the pair in with the like-colored wires of the
Be very careful while doing this, as these
transformer carry AC voltage to the heat- black wire with the black jumper coming twisted pair coming from socket V6.
pins are delicate.
ing filaments in the tubes. It’s important from V8. Solder the pair of twisted white wires to
to twist these wires tightly together. This Cut two 4" heater wires, one white and
Solder the white pair onto pin 2 of V7. socket V5 pin 9 and solder the twisted
isn’t for looks; twisting the wires has a one black. Twist them tightly together.
Solder the black pair onto pin 7. Bend black wires to socket V5 pin 4+5. Bend
hum-cancelling function that reduces the wires up away from the socket, and Twist the end of the white wire together the wires up away from the socket, and
noise in the amp. on toward socket V6. with the white jumper coming from on toward socket V4.
STEP 144 socket V7. Twist the black wire with the
Make sure that the like-colored jumper STEP 148
Connect to tube socket V8 black jumper coming from socket V7.
wires are going to the same-numbered Connect to tube socket V4
Cut two 6" heater wires, one white and pins, or you will have a phase issue from Solder the white pair to socket V6 pin 9 Cut two 5" heater wires, one white and
one black. Twist them together very the pulsing voltage. For example, if the and solder the black pair to combined one black. Twist them tightly together.
tightly, leaving about 1" of the ends white wire is soldered to socket V8 pin 2 pins 4+5 on socket V6. Bend the wires
untwisted. Join the white jumper to and the black wire is soldered in to socket up away from the socket, and on toward Twist the like-colored wires of this new
either of the green jumpers by twisting V8 pin 7, make sure you connect the white socket V5. pair in with the like-colored wires of the
the ends together. Join the black jumper wire to socket V7 pin 2 and the black wire twisted pair coming from socket V5.
to the other green jumper. to socket V7 pin 7. Solder the pair of twisted white wires to
Solder the pair with the white wire to pin socket V4 pin 9 and solder the twisted
2 of socket V8. black wires to socket V4 pin 4+5. Bend
Minimize hum from the wires up away from the socket, and
Solder the pair with the black wire to pin AC voltage by twisting on toward socket V3.
7 of socket V8. Bend these wires up and heater wires tightly
away from the socket. together and routing
At 1" above the socket, bend the black- them up above the
and-white pair at a 90° angle toward signal-carrying wires.
socket V7.

2 1 2 1
A B C
D
E F 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31
34 44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
46 48 55 58 61 62 63
47 50 51 52 54 56 60
53 57
64 71
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
8
8
3
8
234 234 234 234 23
4
234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1


Connect to tube socket V3 Connect to tube socket V1 Add the power cord + strain relief Connect the power cord leads
Cut two 4" heater wires, one white and Run the black-and-white twisted pair Strip the power cord’s outer insulation Run the twisted black and white power
one black. Twist them tightly together. up 1" from the tube socket, directly over back until the black-and-white leads cord wires along the back wall of the
to socket V1, and back down socket V1. can reach from the access hole to the chassis.
Twist the like-colored wires of this new
Solder the white wire to socket V1 pin power switch and fuse. Twist the black-
pair in with the like-colored wires of the Solder the power cord’s white wire to the
9 and solder the black wire to socket V1 and-white leads together. Cut the green
twisted pair coming from socket V4. right lug on the power switch.
pin 4+5. lead from the power cord to reach the
Solder the pair of twisted white wires to three-lug grounding strip just inside Solder the power cord’s black wire to
Carefully inspect each solder joint from
socket V3 pin 9 and solder the twisted the chassis underneath the hole for the the center/back lug of the fuse socket.
this heater wire installation, and once
black wires to socket V3 pin 4+5. Bend power cord. Tin this green lead and wrap Danger: Soldering this lead to the side
the solder joints have cooled push your
the wires up away from the socket, and it through the middle lug of the three-lug lug of the fuse socket will create a shock
heater wires away from the tube sockets
on toward socket V2. grounding strip. hazard.
as far as you can.
STEP 150 Pull the power cord leads through the Solder the power cord’s green ground
Connect to tube socket V2 hole in the chassis and secure with the wire onto the nearby grounding strip.
Cut two 4" heater wires, one white and black strain relief.
one black. Twist them tightly together. The strain relief is a tight fit. Use pliers to Take a break and review your work
Twist the like-colored wires of this new squeeze it onto the power cord outside Now that you’ve soldered the components
pair in with the like-colored wires of the the chassis, and keep squeezing to fit it and wires, it’s time to take a break. Rest
twisted pair coming from socket V3. into the mount hole. your eyes and review your work later,
carefully looking again for any errors
Solder the pair of twisted white wires to before moving on.
socket V2 pin 9 and solder the twisted
black wires to socket V2 pin 4+5.

Installing parts and preparing for testing

Install the fuse Install the pilot lamp Set the chassis on a chassis stand
Insert the 1-amp fuse into the fuse Insert the pilot lamp bulb into its or on blocks for testing
socket and make sure the socket cap socket from the front of the chassis Set your chassis up for final testing.
is secure. Never use a fuse rated above and twist until it locks back in place. Chassis stands are extremely useful
1 amp in this amplifier. Screw the red jewel lens over the for this. If you do not have a chassis
socket. stand a couple of blocks of wood can
STEP 155
work just fine.
Install the capacitor pan STEP 157
Use the self-tapping screws to mount Install the control knobs

the capacitor pan on the chassis, DON’T INSTALL THE TUBES YET!
Turn the shaft of each pot to “zero”
covering the filter cap board. DON’T PLUG THE AMP IN YET!
and install the knob so that the
indicator line points to number 1. The next page is going to keep
you out of trouble!
STOP!

Testing and troubleshooting
Any multimeter will work fine for STEP 161
the two types of tests we’re about to Test the dangerous DC voltage
do: checking continuity and reading The dangerously high DC voltage that
voltages. The instructions that came passes through the rectifier tube and
with your meter will be helpful. the filter caps is referred to as “B+”.
89 The next step is to test this B+ voltage.
Continuity testing is simply making
5 67
sure current flows between two With the amp still unplugged and
12
points successfully. Touch the meter's 34 turned off, install the 5AR4 rectifier
red lead to one end of the section tube while spreading the tension clip.
being tested, and the black lead to the Plug the power cord back in and turn
other end. If the continuity is good,
your meter will beep or register this
V1 the power switch to ON. The pilot
lamp should light, along with the
on the display. STEP 160
filament inside the 5AR4 rectifier tube.
Test the standard AC voltage
Voltage testing is where you need Again, spend a few minutes watching
Set your multimeter to 20V AC. Check
to be careful. Some steps require the for smoke or smells before flipping
the heater voltage across pin 9 and
amp to be plugged in and turned the standby switch to ON.
pins 4+5 on the V1 12AX7 socket.
on. This becomes dangerous if you’re
This should read between 5-7V AC. For safety, use only one hand to
not cautious. Respect the voltages
If this reading is drastically different, probe the amp during DC tests.
and follow the directions, and these
disconnect power and check your Keep your other hand behind your
tests are safe and easy.
connections. back when probing a component,
STEP 159
If the amp seems normal, unplug so you can’t be a path between B+
Perform a safe power-up the power cord and turn the power voltage and ground—a mistake that
At this point, there should be no tubes switch OFF. would send a dangerous charge
installed, and the speaker should be through your heart.
D
disconnected.
F 1 2 3
Before plugging the amp in, turn the
e r ca p
charge the filt how
28 29
power switch to ON. Switching the
A LW AY S d is
See
38 M
amp on before the first power-up
on the circuit.
before working ck on page 6.
104J 600V
protects you from shock if a mistake 46
r sti
to use a snuffe
in your wiring has created a short 64
d
one hand behin
65
to the chassis. If this short exists, an
eriou s ly, ke ep
And s
75 76
indication would be that the pilot
light will not turn on, since the AC your back!
current is going directly to ground.
Plug the power cord in. The pilot lamp 5 6 5 6
7
7
4
should light.
3
3
8
Set your multimeter to 600V DC and

For a few minutes, watch for smoke connect the negative lead to ground.
or unusual smells. If anything seems Once the negative lead is secured to
unusual, disconnect the power ground, flip the standby switch to ON.
immediately and carefully review all Measure the DC voltage at eyelet 46
your connections. for your B+ voltage. This should be
roughly 490V DC.
Turn the power and standby switches
to OFF and unplug the amp.

Testing and troubleshooting
STEP 162 STEP 163

Test the preamp tubes Test the 6V6 power tubes Tube bias affects your sound
With the amp unplugged use the With the amp unplugged, install the “Bias” refers to the current of elec-
snuffer stick to discharge the capaci- 6V6 power tubes, turning them so trons flowing from the cathode to the
tors, then install the six preamp tubes. their indexing keys fit correctly in the plate inside your power tubes when
socket. Turn all of the front panel con- the tubes are idle. The bias setting
After these tubes are installed, plug
trols completely counter-clockwise, determines this flow and is increased
the amp back in and flip the power
so the indicator line is pointing to "1". or decreased by the screwdriver-ad-
switch ON. The pilot lamp should
justable bias pot.
light up. Let the amp warm up for a Plug the speaker in and perform these
few minutes and then flip the standby next tests with the speaker turned Adjusting the bias affects your sound:
switch to ON. Again, if you get smoke away from you. If the amp starts to a higher setting gives you punchier
or smells, unplug immediately. oscillate and squeal, this will help cleans and grittier distortion, but your
protect your ears. tubes will wear out faster. With a low
Connect your multimeter’s negative
setting, your tubes last longer but
lead to ground. Plug the amp in and flip the power
the sound is more sterile. A good bias
switch ON. Give the tubes 30 seconds
Set the multimeter to 5V DC and setting falls between these extremes.
to warm up and then flip the standby
check eyelet 96, which should read
switch to ON as well.
around 1.3V.
After a few moments you should hear
Set the multimeter to 200V DC and
a low hum. If the hum becomes very
check eyelet 98. It should read around
loud, disconnect the power immedi-
200V.
ately and review your connections.
Set the multimeter to 100V DC and
Set your multimeter to read 500V DC
test pin 5 of the V7 and V8 sockets.
and test for voltage on pin 3 of both
These readings should be nearly
socket V7 and socket V8. This is the
identical.
plate voltage reading, and it will be
Use a small flathead screwdriver to around 415V. Write this number in
turn the center of the bias pot all the Box 2 of the calculation in Step 167. It’ll
way counter-clockwise. This will set be needed if you use a bias meter to
the bias for the lowest negative DC set your bias.
voltage. Doing this provides a safe
Set your multimeter to read 50V DC
voltage for the power tubes while you
and test for voltage at eyelet 39.
set the initial bias.
Adjust the bias pot until this voltage
If all of these voltages come within reads -35V.
approximately 10% of their expected
If all of these voltages come within
values, turn the power switch OFF.
approximately 10% of their expected
Always turn the power switch off
values, turn the power switch OFF.
before turning the standby switch off.
After a few moments turn the stand-
This will drain the filter capacitors as
by switch OFF as well, and unplug
the amp cools down. After a moment,
the amp.
flip the standby switch OFF as well.
If the reading at eyelet 98 shows no
voltage or low voltage, follow this
test: unplug the amp, drain the filter
caps with the snuffer stick, set your
meter to read continuity, and make
sure you have properly installed the
back-of-board jumper from eyelet 35
to eyelet 62.

STEP 164 STEP 165
Old method of setting Improved method of setting
the bias: doing it by ear the bias: using a bias meter
If you have a bias meter, skip this step The more accurate way to set the bias With the amp unplugged allow the
and go on to Step 165. is by using a bias meter, such as the power tubes to cool. Once the power
VHT Bias Tester (StewMac #1580). tubes have cooled, remove them from
The old-school way of adjusting the
their sockets.
bias is by ear: after setting the bias This method starts with a simple cal-
voltage to a recommended starting culation to find your bias setting, then Plug the tubes in to the bias probe
point, you make tiny adjustments you adjust the bias pot until your bias sockets, which are like tube sockets.
to the bias pot while listening for meter displays that reading. Plug the probe sockets with tubes
the sound you want. This inexact into the power tube sockets.
The calculation uses two numbers,
method can shorten the life of your Plug the amp back in and flip the
the tube’s maximum plate dissipation
power tubes. power switch ON. Give the tubes 30-
and its plate voltage.
You roughed-in the bias setting in 60 seconds to warm up, then flip the
Plate dissipation. Every power tube
the previous step by setting the bias standby switch ON.
has a specified plate dissipation—the
voltage at -35V. Watch the bias meter as the power
maximum wattage the tube can
Danger: set your guitar aside handle. For the 6V6 power tubes in tubes heat up. Both needles should
before you adjust the bias pot. this amp, that maximum is 14 watts. rise at an equal rate and settle at the
Do not touch any amp circuitry while Exceeding the 14-watt limit will dam- same time.
holding your guitar. Doing so would age the tube, and operating at the Adjust your bias pot until the bias
create an electricution hazard! full 14 watts will shorten its life. Our meter displays the reading you calcu-
goal is to operate the tube at 60% of lated (20mA in our example). Let the
Use a screwdriver to make a tiny
the 14-watt limit, or 8.4 watts. We've amp idle for a few minutes to make
adjustment to the bias pot. Turn
entered this number for you in Box 1 sure that the bias doesn’t drift.
clockwise to increase the current
of the calculation.
and counter-clockwise to decrease When you see a constant readout
it. Then set the screwdriver aside and Plate voltage. You already have the of your bias setting, turn the power
play to hear to the result. plate voltage for these tubes: it’s the switch OFF.
Watch out for red-plating the number you found in Step 163 and
wrote in Box 2 below. After a few moments flip the standby
You especially want to avoid too switch OFF and unplug the amp from
much current turning the gray plates Divide Box 1 by Box 2. The result is the wall.
to glowing red. If your tubes start your recommended bias setting for
red plating, shut the amp down and use in the next step. Our example cal- Once the tubes are cool, remove
let it cool before setting the bias to a culation gives a bias recommendation them and the bias probes from the
lower level. of .020 Amps. Since bias is typically amp and plug the tubes back in to
measured in milliamps, this measure- the amp's tube sockets without the
ment is written as 20mA. probes attached.
Calculate your bias current setting

BOX 1 BOX 2
60% of max. plate dissapation Your plate voltage from Step 165 Your bias current setting
8.4 ÷ =
Example:
8.4 ÷ =

Final assembly
STEP 166
Test the reverb and tremolo
Connect the two shielded cables you
STEP 167
Install the chassis
Discharge the capacitors so you can
GO!
assembled in Step 7 to the reverb safely handle the amplifier. Remove
in and out jacks on the back of the all the cables from their jacks.
chassis. Connect the chassis out cable
to the reverb tank’s in jack. Connect
Slide the chassis in from the back until
its front edge rests on the speaker
It's finally time to let it rip!
the chassis’s in cable to the out jack baffle. Align the chassis straps with After playing for a few minutes and
on the reverb tank. Also connect the the holes in the top of the cabinet. testing all inputs, if everything seems
footswitch cables to the reverb and Insert the mounting screws through to be operating normally, go ahead
vibrato jacks. the straps and down through the and turn the amp off. Install the
Plug the amp back in and flip the chassis. Tighten the locknuts. chassis into the cabinet, install the
power switch ON. Allow the tubes to power cord clamp in the side wall of
Install the preamp tube shields. Fas-
warm up for 30 seconds, then flip the the cabinet, install the preamp tube
ten the power cord to the cable clamp
standby switch ON. shields, and install the back panels.
on the side of the cabinet and install
Plug your guitar into the normal the back panels.
channel and play at low volume. If Slide the reverb tank into its bag
the amp behaves as it should, test the and lay it on the floor of the cabinet.
tone controls and keep increasing the The RCA connections inside the bag
volume. The 66D should start to break should be facing front, toward the
up nicely as you increase the volume. speaker baffle.
Now test the vibrato channel effects. Plug in the speaker, footswitch, and
If the reverb isn’t working, try switch- reverb tank.
ing the cables in the reverb in and
out jacks. If that doesn’t remedy the
issue, check your reverb cables again
for a short.
If there are any strange oscillations,
squeals, or the amp seems at all unsta-
ble, use a wooden chopstick to begin
probing for loose connections:
n from the input jacks to the
eyelet board
n from the tube sockets to the
eyelet board
n from the tube sockets to the
front panel controls.

It usually takes just a minor wiring ad-
justment, perhaps resoldering a loose
joint, to correct this sort of distortion.

Tips for using the 66D
Enjoy your amp! Tube life

For many players, this is a “desert You can vary the tremolo speed and The life span of the power tubes is
island” amp: the one to choose if you intensity settings quite a lot depend- affected by how hard you drive the
could only have one amplifier. ing on the song, but the tremolo can amp. If you are overdriving the amp
become overwhelming when the for hours every day, expect the power
It has very little hum for a vintage
intensity goes past 6. tubes to have a shorter life span.
circuit, the reverb is cavernous, and
the distortion is just right. Also, the I usually play with the volume control We encourage you to experiment
tremolo doesn’t make the unwanted on my guitar at 10, and the 66D sits with different tube brands and find
ticking noise you find with some vin- right on the edge of distortion with the brand that is most favorable to
tage tremolos. (Speaking of tremolo, the volume around 5.5-6. Increasing your ears and your wallet.
Leo mistakenly named this effect “vi- the volume past that point doesn't
brato,” but let’s forgive him for that.). make the amp louder, but the tubes
start to saturate and the tone goes
Why is this amp so sweet, and how do
into full-on gorgeous, harmonic
you dial it in? The AB763 tone stack
distortion.
has a distinct mid scoop: the bass
and treble controls boost their ranges There’s no right or wrong way to play
while leaving the mids unaffected. this amp, and it’s almost impossible to
With bass and treble set to minimum, pull a sour tone from it!
the tone stack bleeds off about 25dB Matt Clouston, StewMac
from the signal. For this reason, try For questions and support,
setting the bass and treble at about StewMac is here to help!
6. If you’re using single-coils, maybe For more than fifty years, StewMac
bump the bass up a bit more, and give has supplied instrument builders and
humbuckers a little more treble. repair shops. Our customer service
The normal channel doesn’t have team really knows how to help if you
reverb and tremolo. This unaffected run into questions.
channel is helpful if you have a reverb Call 800-848-2273 from 9AM–6PM
pedal on your board and don't want Eastern time, Monday–Friday.
to send your signal through a reverb Email: service@stewmac.com
tank. However, most players seem to
Thanks for choosing this StewMac
prefer the vibrato channel.
ICON KIT, and welcome to the world
With the bass and treble at about of amp building!
6, try the reverb control between 4
and 5.

Learning more: secrets revealed in the schematic
You don’t need to read a schematic to build this kit. But it’s We’ve color-coded these stages on our schematic, to show
fun to see how the circuit works, and to see the different how the parts work together. Symbols for components are
subcircuits that interact to shape your sound. in the key at the bottom of the frame.
Working with the tiny signal from the guitar, the amp creates On the wiring diagram we build step-by-step in these
the power needed to drive the speaker. The signal is affected pages, the parts are easier to recognize. But studying these
by the gain, processing, output and power stages as it color-coded stages will help you understand where each
passes through the circuit. component fits into the creation of your sound.
Mic level
Gain Line level Processing Line level Output Speaker level
The gain circuit increases the signal The processing stage shapes the The output stage increases the line
strength to line level (about 1 volt), tone. The AB763 is notorious for its level signal to speaker level, which
by passing it through preamp tubes. mid-scooping tone stack. is typically 8 volts or greater.
Inside the tube, electrons flow from Both the normal channel and the Two 6V6 tubes drive the output trans-
a heated cathode to be received by vibrato channel have processing con- former. They receive the split signal,
the anode plate. Between these is a trols through their respective treble 180 degrees out of phase, amplify
grid receiving the tiny voltage from and bass controls, and the vibrato those signals, and send them to the
the guitar. The guitar’s plate channel has additional processing output transformer to be recombined
varying musical signal grid through the reverb and vibrato cir- into one signal. This transformer
controls the flow of cathode cuits. adjusts the impedance to 8 ohms to
electrons to the plate. V3 handles the reverb send and the
drive the amp’s 8Ω speaker.
V1 handles the first gain stages of the first half of V4 handles the reverb re- This amp has an adjustable fixed bias,
normal channel, and V2 handles the covery. V5 handles the vibrato circuit. which means you need to check the
first gain stages of the vibrato chan- Both channels are then sent to the
bias and possibly make adjustments
nel. The vibrato channel has an extra phase inverter which uses all of V6.
when you change power tubes.
gain stage in the second half of V4 to The phase inverter then sends the
make up for signal lost through the signal to the output section.
reverb and vibrato circuits.
Power
Negative feedback
The power supply stage provides power to the other circuit stages, as well as the
The negative feedback loop flattens tube heaters and pilot light.
and extends the amp’s frequency re-
sponse, reducing distortion generat- This circuit receives the AC power from your wall and passes it through the power
ed in the output stage. This makes the transformer to create higher voltage. The electricity then goes to the rectifier,
amp’s sound cleaner and more hi-fi. which converts it to a pulsing DC current.
Some players disable this loop com- This then passes through the filter choke and the filter cap board. The filter cap
pletely or add a potentiometer in board contains five capacitors that filter out the pulsing to create a smooth current.
place of the resistor to create a “grit As each cap smoothes a bit more, the current is also passing through resistors
control.” We don’t recommend this, that lower the voltage.
because it places stress on the output As the signal from the guitar becomes more amplified, the ripple of DC current
transformer. becomes less evident and the fully filtered current is sent to the most sensitive
part of the amplifier, the first pre-amp tube in the Gain stage.

Gain Processing Gain Negative Feedback
250pF .047μF 220K 820Ω

SOCKET V1 Output
2
7025 SOCKET V4 6 SOCKET V7 3 +370V
100K
+180V +180V
68 K
6 7025 SOCKET V6 6V6GT 4 +365V
250KA
7
TREBLE
stewmac.com
+180V 1 12AT7 .1μF 1.5 K EXTENSION
.1μF +200V 470Ω SPEAKER
2 7 .001μF
1MA
3 +1.3V 8 2 1 5
+1.3V
NORMAL
VOLUME
+1.3V 8 8
68 K
1M
220K
82 K
-35V
TR3
22K 470Ω
100K
BASS
250KA
+415 V
+77V
8
100K
220K
E
10pF
3.3M
1 8
1M
A .1μF
1.5 K
.047μF
1M
7
220K
100K
6.8K
.1μF
25μF 50V
1.5 K
6 5 470 Ω
+180V
.1pF
SOCKET V8 4 +415V
C
47Ω
6V6GT 3 +415V
100K
100K
250pF 47pF
TR2
100K
SOCKET V2 10K 10K
2
7025
100K
+170V
68 K
6
.022μF D 16μF C 16μF B 16μF
Power
250KA
TREBLE
+170V 1 450V 450V 450V STANDBY
.1μF
2 SWITCH
1MA
3 +1.3V
VIBRATO
VOLUME
+1.3V 8 Processing
68 K
100K
BASS
A
250KA
1 3MRA
1.5 K
.047μF SPEED
820Ω
1M
1M .01μF
6.8K
25μF 50V
25μF 50V
16μF 450V
16μF 450V
SOCKET V5
12AX7
59
.02μF
6
.01μF
VIBRATO
PEDAL 1M 2 1
7 10KL
Processing
3
8
220K
SOCKET V3
2.2 M
10K
500pF
470Ω
V
12AT7 +410 220K
TR4 +170V .0033μF
1 6 1
50KRA
27K
10M
25μF 50V
100AK
2 2
INTENSITY
25μF 50V
25μF 50V
100K
470K
220K
8 +8.7V E 3 +1.2V
1M
TR1
SOCKET V9
100K
820Ω
100KL
2.2K
GZ34
REVERB
TR1: 125P33A
25μF 50V
25μF 50V
125P23B 330VAC 6
AC switch 8
TR2: 125C3A
Input Output TR3: 125A1A 2
B REVERB UNIT REVERB D TR4: 125A20B 330VAC 4
PEDAL
1 amp To tube heaters
slow-blow fuse and pilot light
100Ω
100Ω
#10737 © 2019 StewMac
Resistor Capacitor Potentiometers Diode Transformer Jack Ground Shielded Preamp tube Power tube Rectifier tube Optoisolator
cable
plate plate plate cathode
grid screen
Electrolytic Cap. grid filament ’66 D-REVERB 22W
plate
cathode cathode ORIGINAL AB763 CIRCUIT
© 2019 StewMac
It’s your amp. Your tone. You built it!
StewMac ICON KITS teach you the world of amp building,
then turn you loose with amazing hand-built tone machines!
’57 MINI TWEED 5W AMP KIT

One-knob titan of tone.
A timeless studio darling whose tiny size hides
tremendous punch and versatility.
The 5F1 circuit was meant to be a student amp but wasn’t kid stuff
for long; rock’s finest guitarists hijacked it for some of the greatest
songs ever recorded. Listen to Eric Clapton (“Layla") or Joe Walsh
(“Rocky Mountain Way") while you build this amp!
Our simplest kit; the quickest way to get into amp building. D I F F I C U LT Y
#10730 5 WATTS / 8" SPEAKER / ORIGINAL 5F1 CIRCUIT H O U RS : 6
’59 TWEED 15W AMP KIT

Dirty little devil that shaped guitar history.
With mysteriously fat saturated tone, this little monster
makes it easy to achieve seismic distortion.
This amp’s 5E3 circuit is an enigma: Why do the controls on the channel
you’re NOT using make your tone so great? The answer: Who cares?
This is one of the greatest t one monsters ever created!
Listen to Neil Young’s Rust Never Sleeps while building this kit.
Our most popular amp kit and a great learning experience. D I F F I C U LT Y
#10731 15 WATTS / 12" SPEAKER / ORIGINAL 5E3 CIRCUIT H O U RS : 8
’65 P-REVERB 15W AMP KIT

Sparkling bright, perfect for the surf.
Plug your single-coils straight in for that signature clean
American tone, or go surfing with onboard effects.
The smallest member of the black-panel family to offer reverb
and tremolo, this amp made its name as a jangly pop dream machine.
Aficionados treasure its early low-end breakup powered by a pair
of 6V6 tubes.
Listen to “Surfin’ USA" and the great sounds of Ryan Adams. D I F F I C U LT Y
#10734 15 WATTS / 10" SPEAKER / ORIGINAL AA1164 CIRCUIT H O U RS : 1 2
’66 D-REVERB 22W AMP KIT

Famously clean, with enough guts to gig.
Perfect for recording as well as performing, the D-Reverb produces
stinging clarity that absolutely refuses to get lost in the mix.
One of the most popular designs ever, this amp lives in the happy middle
between bright clarity and rich distortion. It excels in the studio and on the
stage. While capable of crystal clear tones at good volume, you can push
this one into beautifully saturated, play-sensitive distortion.
It’s all here: clarity, distortion, and rectifier tube sag. D I F F I C U LT Y
#10737 22 WATTS / 12" SPEAKER / ORIGINAL AB763 CIRCUIT H O U RS : 16

Beginner-tested. Pro quality.
StewMac ICON KITS are fun to build, with friendly instructions
to guide you and loads of info to add to your knowledge.
’62 BRIT-PLEX 45W AMP KIT

The original British showstopper.
This amp started a revolution. It’s been rocking the world
for over 50 years, and we still can’t get enough.
Favored by blues and rock players for exceptional sustain
and rich creamy tone, the ’62 Brit-Plex is chock-full of harmonic
gain, yet it still stays articulate and even a little crispy.
Put this head on a classic 4x10 cab and watch out!
While building, listen to Gary Moore’s “Still Got The Blues." D I F F I C U LT Y
#10736 45 WATTS / ORIGINAL BRITISH CIRCUIT H O U RS : 1 2
’81 BRIT-800 50W AMP KIT

This hairy monster lives to shred.
The defining British circuit that dominated the ’80s.
This 50W giant created your favorite heavy rock and metal albums.
Used by Slayer and Pixies, and recorded on early Metallica albums, this
circuit produces that screaming guitar tone that your mother despises.
With solid-state rectification there’s no sag, and the distortion created
by this circuit is way more about treble than mids or bass.
Listen while building: Smashing Pumpkins’ Siamese Dream. D I F F I C U LT Y
#10735 50 WATTS / ORIGINAL BRITISH CIRCUIT H O U RS : 16
’66 BRIT-74X 18W AMP KIT

Leave your half-stack at home.
Born in London, this little blues blaster earns its living
every night, gigging in clubs across the USA.
Launched in 1966, this amp quickly became a low-wattage holy grail.
This is a stripped-down blues machine: two channels, one tone knob,
no master volume. Buckle up and go where this gritty beast takes you!
It comes with a footswitch to kick in the onboard tremolo.
Get the plexi tone without blowing the roof off the joint! D I F F I C U LT Y
#10732 18 WATTS / 12" SPEAKER / ORIGINAL BRITISH CIRCUIT H O U RS : 1 2
’64 REVERB UNIT KIT

Reverb you can’t get from a pedal.
This is the unit that put the waves in surf music!
Looks like an amp, sounds like a beach party.
This tube-driven reverb tank relies on good ol’ physics for a perfect
effect. Your guitar signal travels along two large suspended springs
to produce the reverb that launched the iconic surf sound.
This isn't a pocket-sized digital simulation; this is the real deal!
Listen to Dick Dale’s “Misirlou" while doing this easy build. D I F F I C U LT Y
#10733 ORIGINAL 6G15 CIRCUIT H O U RS : 8

stewmac.com
47
2 1 2 1
KRA A 0KL 0KA 0KA MA 0KA 0KA MA
1
1
MR
3
10
25
25
25
25
50
A B C
D
E F
+
25µF 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 23 24 25 26
13 20 22 27
28 29 33 11 36 37
30 32 35
31 10
34 pF
44 45
38 39 40 41 43
42
49 59
25µF
25µ F
25µ F
25µF
250
250
25µF
.01μF
48
510+
46 55 58 61 62 63
104J 600V
25µF
47 50 54
25µF
+
+ 51 52 + +
104J 600V
56 60
104J 600V
53
104J 600V
473J 600V
+ 57
473J 600V
473J 600V
104J 600V
332J 600V
+ +
64 71
.01μF
65 68
69
66 67 70 72 73 74
222J 600V
102J 1119
104J 600V
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
.02μF
62
5 6 5 6 5 6
9 9 9 9 9 9
78 78 78 78 78 78
7
7
7
4
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
56
56
56
56
56
56
3
3
3
8
8
8
234 234 234 234 234 234
2 1 2 1 2 1
V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1

’66 D-Reverb 22W

#10737 © 2019 StewMac
© 2019 StewMac
ORIGINAL AB763 CIRCUIT
StewMac® ’66 D-Reverb 22W

Tube locations from left to right:

V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1
Use only 1-amp slow-blow fuse, size 5mm x 20mm.

#10737
Cut this label on the dotted line with a razor knife and metal straightedge.
Fasten it inside the cabinet using thinned wood glue or contact cement.
The duplicate copy below is included as a backup.
StewMac® ’66 D-Reverb 22W


Tube locations from left to right:

V9 V8 V7 V6 V5 V4 V3 V2 V1
Use only 1-amp slow-blow fuse, size 5mm x 20mm.

#10737

StewMac
tools + ideas for guitarmaking
21 N. Shafer St., Athens, OH 45701

800-848-2273 stewmac.com
©2019 StewMac. All rights reserved.

#10737 Updated February, 2019

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’66 D-REVERB 22W

COMBO AMP KIT

Famously clean with

About this iconic amp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

How to build this kit!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Tools and supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Amp voltages are seriously dangerous!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

How to use a snuffer stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

How to read resistor values . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Prepping the cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Prepping the eyelet boards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Tips for great soldering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Installing the chassis-mounted components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

How to install parts on an eyelet board in three steps . . . . . . . . . . 22

Wrapping parts onto the bias board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Wrapping parts onto the filter cap board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Wrapping parts onto the main eyelet board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Installing parts and preparing for testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

Testing and troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Tips for using the 66D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

Learning more: secrets revealed in the schematic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58

More iconic amp kits from StewMac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Complete wiring diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

Tube replacement chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

stewmac.com 2 © 2019 StewMac

For many players, this is

This amp is an ICON

Let’s get building!

stewmac.com 1 © 2019 StewMac

Get the cabinet ready,

Wiring goes like this:

250pF .047μF 220K 820Ω

You don’t need to read the schematic, but it’s fun!

See how your guitar’s signal gets processed into sound

SOCKET V2 10K 10K

450V 450V 450V

#10733 © 2018 StewMac

’66 D-REVERB 22W

cathode cathode ORIGINAL AB763 CIRCUIT

stewmac.com 2 © 2019 StewMac

r (1) 47pF 500V silver mica

r (2) 100Ω .5W carbon composite

r (1) 470Ω .5W carbon composite

r (1) 2.7K .5W carbon composite

r (1) 56K .5W carbon composite

r (1) 82K .5W carbon composite

r (8) 220K .5W carbon composite

r (1) 470K .5W carbon composite

r (7) 1M .5W carbon composite 16μF r (5) 16μF 500V electrolytic

r (1) 2.2M .5W carbon composite

r (1) 3.3M .5W carbon composite

r (3) 470Ω 1W carbon film

r (6) 8-32 machine screw, 3/8" r (1) Cabinet

r (1) Strain relief for power cord r (1) Faceplate/backplate set

r (6) Rubber grommet

r (3) Eight-pin tube socket

r (1) 50KRA control pot

r (4) 12AX7 preamp tube (also called ECC83S)

r (2) 6V6S power tube

r (1) 5AR4 rectifier tube (also called GZ34)

r (1) Fuse socket r (1) Ground switch (3 lugs)

r (1) Fuse (1 amp, slow blow)

r (1) Heater wires (pre-tinned) r (1) Power transformer