You are on page 1of 8

Unknown date Unknown author

Making Wine from Rare Fruit


Making Wine from Rare Fruit
John M. Riley

The information here was taken from an article by John M. Riley that
appeared in the
1978 CRFG Yearbook (vol. 10, pp. 57-62).
See the
back issue information
for price and ordering information.
Metric unit conversions are at the end of the document.

Getting Started
Listed below are some basic concepts and techniques in wine making.
Prospective home vintners might also nd it useful to consult a book on
the subject, particularly a book with good illustrations and step-by-
step instructions.

Wine making is gardening of a sort. Selected yeasts are the seed. They
need nutrients in the form of sugar and all the elements associated with
life. As in gardening, the selection of good seed ensures a good wine.
Wild yeasts are found on almost all fruit, but these generally produce a
wine which is inferior in avor and of a lower alcohol content than
wines produced by select strains of yeast. Good wine yeasts costing no
more than a package of ower seed will provide a variety of controlled
avors and 16-20% alcohol. Baker's yeast will give a "beery" taste and
low alcohol content, but could be used in a rst attempt at raisin jack or
apple cider.
Just as there are weeds in the garden, so there are weeds in wines.
There are microorganisms the feed on alcohol and cause a poor avor.
Vinegar bacilli will change sugar to vinegar. Molds give a stale avor.
To prevent these unwelcome intruders, cleanliness is the only answer.
An e ective agent is sal soda (sodium carbonate). This is inexpensive
and does not contribute a taste of its own. Baking soda is fairly e ective
if given time to work. Either of these agents will remove odors and
avors from the containers. If soap or detergents are used, the
containers must be carefully rinsed. Even the slightest trace will be
apparent in the taste of a light wine.

A second means of ensuring that the wine yeast dominates the brew is
to start a culture into vigorous growth a few days ahead of the
fermentation of the must (the fruit pulp and syrup). By this means the
selected yeast will have such a head start that it will consume the sugar
and render the wine antiseptic before any unwanted organism can gain
a foothold.

The procedure for preparing yeast starter is simple: Boil together


1/2 cup (~120 ml) fruit juice, 4 tablespoons (~60 ml) sugar, 1-1/2 cups
(~360 ml) water and a pinch of yeast nutrient for three minutes to
sterilize. Pour into a sterilized container. When the temperature has
fallen to near room temperature, add the wine yeast. Cover the
container so that the carbon dioxide can escape. For example, a sheet of
plastic wrap held in place with a rubber band lets the gasses escape, but
keeps out unwanted organisms. The mixture will turn cloudy and smell
yeasty within a few days, at which time it is ready to use.

Fermentation and Bottling


In order to brew a gallon of wine it is desirable to have a primary
fermentation container that will hold about three gallons of must.
Never use metals for storage or fermentation of wine components.
Following the recipes for various fruit wines, ll the plastic container
with fruit pulp and liquid. At this time the fruit will contain a variety of
organisms ready to grow. Sterilize the mixture by adding Campden
tablets which consist of meta-bisul te which releases sulfur dioxide
when wet The sulfur in addition to sterilizing reduces oxidation and
helps maintain the color of the wine. After about 24 hours the sulfur is
recombined and contributes no avor of its own. Then add the yeast
starter and cover the plastic pail and must. Stir the fermenting must
daily to distribute the fruit pulp evenly. The open fermentation and
exposure to air helps establish a vigorous growth of yeast. After 6 or
7 days of open fermentation, strain the must through a sieve or cheese
cloth and ll the primary fermentation container.

The primary fermentor most often used by the home wine maker is a
glass gallon jug. This maybe readily sterilized and examined to check
progress. An airlock is used to keep out unwanted air. These are usually
made of plastic and consist of an inverted cup over a stem. The
combination holds enough water so that carbon dioxide may escape by
bubbling through the water. When the yeast is deprived of oxygen, it
changes its method of growth, producing much more alcohol. New
wine bubbling merrily in the jug is a beautiful sight. Fermentation will
slow as the sugar is consumed and in two or three weeks will be
essentially complete. It is not time to rack or bottle the wine.

The process of bottling wine can be given the dignity it deserves by the
use of special wine bottles, corks and even foil and labels. However, you
can just as well use soft drink bottles which have a screw top. Be sure
the bottles are clean and free from odor or contaminants. Siphon the
new wine into the bottles to minimize exposure to the air. Fill the bottle
to the top. There will be a considerable sediment (lees) composed of
yeast and residual particles of fruit at the bottom of the fermenter. Do
not siphon too close to this sediment for this will develop o avors if
allowed to age with the wine. Let the wine age for about three months
in a moderately cool and dark place. Rebottle the wine once again,
avoiding the small amount of sediment sure to be present. Add 2
Campden tables per gallon of wine to sterilize and then seal the bottles
permanently. Some wines are pleasant immediately, but others require
as long as a year before they develop a good character.

Very often wine is fermented to dryness, and sugar is added later in the
form of syrup to sweeten the wine to the individual taste. If this process
is used, add Campden tablets to stop the fermentation which otherwise
may start up again. Sometimes this secondary fermentation is
deliberately encouraged to coax a greater alcohol content.

Wine recipes
A "wine" of sorts can be made with approximately two pounds (.9 kg)
of sugar, yeast, nutrient and water to make up a gallon (3.8 L).
Fermentation reduces the sugar and creates alcohol. The addition of
fruits provide the avor and aroma. There is a temptation to process
whole fruit in a food blender as a short cut rather than peel it. This can
introduce unwanted strong avors from the skin. Some of the better
wines also make use of judicious amounts of aromatic herbs and spices
as well as fruit.

The recipes o ered here are general and intended to stimulate the
imagination. There is a good opportunity to create very ne wines from
fresh fruit in season and from canned "rare" fruits in ready supply. Be
aware, however, that much imported canned tropical fruit is of low
quality. Most have a metallic taste from the can. If at all possible use
fruit in bottles or fruit syrups.

GENERAL RECIPE

2 lb fresh fruit or 20 oz canned fruit


2 lb sugar
1 teaspoon tannin
2 teaspoons citric acid
1 teaspoon yeast nutrient
wine yeast
water to 1 gallon liquid

If the fruit has a high pectin content (jells easily) it will be desirable to
add 2 tablespoons of depectinizer to assist in breaking down the pulp. A
mild avored fruit may be used in greater quantities than one which
has a strong avor. There is nothing wrong with blends of compatible
fruits, and indeed some of the best wines are blends. Bananas and
raisins are particularly valuable since they give body to the wine
without dominating the avor.
RAISIN JACK

3 lb raisins
1 lb sugar
juice of 2 lemons
water to 1 gallon

The raisins should be chopped or ground in a food blender with the


lemon juice. Heat the sugar and water to boiling to dissolve and pour
over the raisins. If a cup of raisin pulp is held out until the water cools,
it will likely supply the natural yeasts needed to start fermentation. Let
ferment in a primary fermentor for 6 to 7 days. Strain o the sediment
and place in a secondary fermentor with an airlock for 1 to 2 weeks.
When the fermentation has ceased and the wine has cleared, put into
bottles and seal.

This is nothing more than "Jungle Juice" of World War fame, but the
product is generally liked and the wine can be sampled immediately. A
really superior wine can be made using raisin in more sophisticated
recipes with a good yeast.

PINEAPPLE WINE

2 cans sliced or crushed pineapple (20 oz total)


1 1/2 lb sugar
2 teaspoons citric acid
1/2 teaspoon tannin
1/2 teaspoon yeast nutrient
wine yeast
water to 1 gallon

Finely chop the pineapple or put through a blender to assist in


extraction. Dissolve the sugar in 2 quarts of boiling water. Allow to cool
to near room temperature and add pineapple, juice from the can,
tannin and nutrient. Add su cient water to bring the total volume to
one gallon. Add yeast starter, ferment and bottle as described above.

MANDARIN ORANGE WINE


2 cans mandarin orange slices (20 oz total)
2 lb sugar
1/2 teaspoon citric acid
1 teaspoon yeast nutrient
wine yeast
water to 1 gallon

Crush or blend the orange segment with the juice in the cans. Dissolve
the sugar in 2 quarts boiling water, add the citric acid, tannin and
nutrient. Pour in the orange pulp and juice. Add water to make one
gallon by volume. When the mixture is near room temperature, add
yeast starter and ferment as described above.

PAPAYA WINE

2 cans papaya (20 oz total) or 2 lb. fresh fruit


2 lb sugar
2 teaspoons citric acid
1 teaspoon tannin
1 teaspoon yeast nutrient
2 tablespoons depectinizer
wine yeast
water to 1 gallon

Crush or blend the fruit saving the juice. Boil two quarts water with the
sugar to make a syrup. Let cool to near room temperature and add
tannin, citric acid, nutrient and depectinizer. Pour over the fruit pulp
and juice. Add water to make one gallon by volume. Cover and store for
one day at room temperature. This will allow the depectinizer to break
down the fruit pulp and produce a better wine. Add the yeast starter and
ferment as described above.

MANGO WINE

2 cans sliced mangos (20 oz total) or 2 lb. fresh fruit


2 lb. sugar
5 teaspoons citric acid
1 teaspoon tannin
2 tablespoons depectinizer
1 teaspoon yeast nutrient
wine yeast
water to 1 gallon

Prepare as for papaya wine. This makes a light golden table wine which
is at its best as a dry wine.

Honey is especially good as a base for light wines with fruit avors. The
following recipes introduce the combination of honey and fruit in an
ancient drink known as melomel.

GRAPEFRUIT MELOMEL

43 to 46 oz grapefruit juice (canned or fresh)


2 lb mixed wild ower honey
1 teaspoon yeast nutrient
1/2 oz tartaric acid
wine yeast

Dissolve the honey in 3 pints of water and add grapefruit juice, tartaric
acid and nutrient. Add two Campden tablets and su cient water to
make up 1 gallon of mixture. After 24 hours introduce a yeast starter.
Ferment as describe above. This melomel has the characteristic bite of
grapefruit, but the avor blends very well with honey.

LYCHEE MELOMEL

1 lb canned lychees
1 lb orange blossom honey
1 lb sugar
1/4 oz malic acid
1/2 teaspoon tannin
1 teaspoon yeast nutrient
sauternes yeast
water to 1 gallon

Dissolve the sugar and honey in 6 pints of water. Add lychees, nutrient,
li id dt i t k ll Add t C d t bl t
After 24 hours add yeast starter to the pulp. Ferment three days. Strain
o lychees and continue fermentation to dryness. Continue as
described above.

Approximate metric unit conversion

1 lb = 0.45 kg
1 oz = 28 g
1 teaspoon = 5 ml
1 tablespoon = 15 ml
1 oz ( uid) = 30 ml
1 cup = 236 ml
1 pint = 473 ml
1 gallon = 3.8 L
© Copyright 1978,2009,
California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc.

Questions or comments?
Contact us.

Viewed using Just Read

You might also like