The Hydroreactor English

The HYDR REACTOR
A simple guide to build your own
Onboard Hydrogen Generator, an HYDRO-REACTOR !
Nothing to change on your vehicle, lots more miles for the same fuel, less
pollution, less wear of the engine, no maintenance cost
And just WATER to add !
Version : 01 November 2008
Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle.

Save your fuel, refill with water !
Obtain FREE energy to save your fuel, by using your alternator and water to produce
a fuel more powerful than gasoline or diesel !
A little bit of electricity to produce enough watergas
to save from 20 to 80% of your fuel !
Yes, did you know that water can be used as fuel, and that
it’s a fuel 2.5 times more powerful that standard gasoline !
Install an HYDRO-REACTOR and transform your vehicle in an Hybrid-Hydrogen.
Use the power and purity of hydrogen to save your carburant !
Be Green, be modern, Burn water in place of gasoline or diesel !
The onboard production of hydrogen to reduce engines consumption is a prooved

technology since more than 85 years, so enjoy it yourself ! Equip your car with an
HYDRO-REACTEOR, simple, cheap, reliable and safe, and save NOW on your fuel bill.
Be Green, say NO TO PETROL and YES TO WATER !
NO to expensive and polluting fuels, YES to water as fuel !
Jump in, boost your engine with an HYDRO-REACTOR !
The hydrogen is produced on demand, no hydrogen is stored, no explosion danger ,

the fuel is waaater !
Copyright info: myself, MDG, as author of this book and all schematics included, offer this knowledge to all the
world, and I don’t protect this book ; anybody is encouraged to reproduce for free this booklet and the models pre-
sented inside, and this even for commercial use. That’s one of my modest contributions for a better world. This book
and electrolyser designs are under Copyleft (Free License). To share is to progress. MDG.
Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 2

Index of this book part 1 Page
What’s an electrolyser ? Why installing an electrolyser in your vehicle ? 4, 5, 6
The manufacture of a reliable and simple electrolyser for your vehicle. 7, 8
Schemas and building details. 9 à 20
Assembly and starting. 21 à 23
Installation on the vehicle, tests and maintenance. 24 à 26
Possible variations . 27
Variation 2 28 et 29
List of elements of the apparatus and important recommendation. 30 et 31
History of this book. 32 et 33
Professionals electrolysers for heavy trucks. 34
Some others utilisations for electrolysers. 35
Chemical and thermal resistances of plastics 36
List of patents related to onboard electrolysers. 37
A simple and efficient system, in 3 steps only:
1. Little electricity, 2. Transformation of 3. Gases to the engine

water in gases. for a better burn of
(equivalent to a standard
car front light) your fuel !
Engine
Battery
Schematic of fonctionning of
the electrolyser.
HYDRO-REACTOR
Electricity + Water = FUEL SAVINGS
1. What’s an HYDRO-REACTOR ?
An HYDRO-REACTOR is an apparatus that transforms water in its gaseous constituents, that's 2 thirds of hydrogen and 1 third of
oxygen. The process is called electrolysis of water, and then an HYDRO-REACTOR is a water electrolyser.
2. Why installing an electrolyser in your vehicle ?
It has been discovered by scientists, more than 85 years ago, that adding a small volume of hydrogen gas to the combustion of an
hydrocarbon fuel (petrol, gasoline, diesel, natural gas, …) improved greatly this combustion by increasing its thermal power and
also reduce almost totally the pollution (pollution is essentially composed of unburned particles, and then disappear when hydro-
carbons are totally burned). (*patent US 1,379,077, M. Blumenberg, 1921)
So by installing a reactor producing hydrogen and by mixing it with the fuel used in your vehicle, you will greatly increase the com-
bustion of your fuel, and then gaining in power, and by the way you will need less fuel for the same distance and also suppress
almost all pollution at your exhaust.
Yes, it’s incredible all what will bring the HYDRO-REACTOR to your vehicle, and all that just with water and a little bit of electricity
coming from your battery/alternator.
Also your engine will heat less because the combustion is better and more homogenous, there will be less vibrations on your pis-
tons, and then less friction that is source of heat in the engine. Also important is the fact that your engine won’t clogged anymore,
and will turn smoother, and you crankcase oil won’t become dirty as fast as before because of the reduction of the unburned parti-
cles of carbon created at combustion time. So the lifespan of your engine will be longer and will need less maintenance.
3. What are the different types of electrolysers used in vehicles ?
A— You install an electrolyser for welding in your vehicle. Such water welding systems are commercialised
since dozens of years, and benefit from a semi-industrialised manufacturing and are of a high quality because based on many years
of experience. They are usually of great efficiency for those build by serious companies.
They could be used in our fuel saving application, because they produce exactly the same gaseous mix than the electrolysers said
‘for vehicles’ that we talk about in this book. Their goal is also to separate the 2 main components of water, hydrogen and oxygen.
And yes, as you can understand it, water can be used to weld ! Or more exactly the 2 main gases contained in water can be used to
weld, or even to cook, to heat or to energise water. The electricity is used to separate the hydrogen and oxygen, that are then
burned together, in the same proportion that they have been separated, and that gives a very special flame with very specific ef-
fects, giving welding possibilities that no other system can offer. (see more details in the dedicated chapter of this book)
But they have characteristics that are little adapted for an use in a vehicle, because:
They are wired in 220-240V (or 120V for American and Chinese models), and then need the use of an inverter to transform the DC
12 or 24 Volts from the battery, in 220-240V or 120V AC needed by this type of electrolyser for welding.
They are usually of large size, heavy and very expensive because they contain dozens of Stainless Steel plates as electrodes (what is
not necessary if we use only 12V from a battery). They are actually only produced in North America (very good quality but very
expensive), in South Korea (very good quality and cheap) or in China (low quality, even very bad sometimes, even today)
An installation in a vehicle could be like this :

Buy a Brown Gas Welding Machine, producing 120Litres of gas per hour (2 litres per minute), at minimum, that’s a power of
around 400 Watts in 220 Volts. Expect 350 Euros for such a cheap model sent from China.
Buy an inverter of at least 600 Watts to provide the AC in 220-240 Volts needed by your welding electrolyser, from your 12Volts
DC battery. Expect at least 150 Euros.

If necessary install a powerful alternator on your vehicle, that can supply continuously 25 to 35 Amperes needed by this 400 Watts
electrolyser (400 Watts divided per 12 Volts = 30-35 Amperes). Expect 200 Euros for a 60 Amperes alternator .
The total cost of such an installation would be around 700 Euros for a system that finally is very voluminous and complicated to
install, but that could prove the possibility of fuel saving on all internal combustion engines with apparatuses that are already fon
the market since dozens of years, and that just recently inventors or companies have started to better adapt specifically for on-
board use, cars, lorries and buses, boats and agriculture vehicles and even for flying machines!
To resume the procedure, you would install a powerful alternator, or a second one dedicated to the electrolyser. Then you’d have
to connect the inverter on the alternator, and the welding machine (the professional electrolyser) on the inverter. Then you’d bring
the gases produced by the electrolyser to the air intake of the engine, with a long pipe, as explained in this book, at installation
chapter.
B — You build yourself, or you order on plans, an onboard electrolyser, adapted to the specifications of
your vehicle, secured, strong and cheap, with easy installation and simple maintenance .
In this case we suggest you to use the instructions given in this book, not because we think to be the only ones to have discovered
a configuration adapted, nor because we think we are the bests, but really because the choice of such a design and the plans de-
scribed are the result of many years of trials and errors with all kinds of models of electrolysers.
This plans are the results of thousands hours of team work and thousands euros spent to finish with an onboard electrolyser that is
reliable, robust and without dangers, and that is well adapted to being built by a lay man or a small company in a basic workshop.
Our personal vehicles are equipped with this model of electrolyser, since a few years already, because it is very well adapted and
easy to use, the most efficient that we can obtain with such a simplicity and low price, and most important it has no electronic or
fragile components nor high technology involved, things that usually fail or are expensive.
This electrolyser is not for competition nor an highly scientific technology, but an answer to the need of many people to access to a
safe and reliable fuel saving system, that will work without failure during many years with very little maintenance, and without
danger.
WARNING : The gas produce by this electrolyser is very explosive, and then it is very dangerous to use by somebody not know-
ing the care to take with this kind of system. We don’t push you to start to build what is described in this book and we take no
responsibility for what you do or what could happen with the information disclosed here. We created this book just to commu-
nicate and share our knowledge on this subject, but this is just for educational purpose only. Be careful and ask for help from
professionals if you are not qualified to do the work.

C — You buy an onboard electrolyser among those for sale on internet.
Unluckily politics and petrol lobbies don’t like to see the development of this kind of technology that save on fuel consumption,
and would reduce considerably their sales on petrol and taxes collection. So it’s not possible to mass produce this type of fuel
saver, and it must be limited to niche markets like internet, that only a few people use to get information on energy saving.
There is almost only internet where you can purchase such an electrolyser of water for your vehicle. There is may be half a dozen
of websites offering onboard electrolysers, some since many years already. They are mostly from USA or Canada, so their appara-
tuses are quite expensive.
A French tried a few years ago to commercialise his electrolyser, Mr Moreau of Utopia Tech., but we can see that he didn’t finished
yet the research and setting of his apparatus, that he qualified as very highly technologic one, and the poor consumers still can’t
buy his electrolysers nor even the plans. Of course we have no doubts about the qualification and good willing of the Engineer
Moreau, because we are sure that he is blocked by the powers in place to stop the production of his system. The situation is such
that if you have a good product that could have an impact on the fuel consumption of vehicle at national scale , you are immedi-
ately menaced and pressurised to force you to stop its development.
It’s now our turn to come to the public place, after many years of underground activity, and we are determined to give access to all
the people of the world, to this efficient fuel saving technology, hoping that a safe product, simple and cheap to build will be help-
ful. Because it’s by making this technology simple and affordable by everybody that it will grow until one day the petrol lobbies
won’t be able to suppress it anymore.
Another thing that pushed us to develop our own model, is that what is for sale on internet is not very adapted yet ; you have the
choice between 2 types of onboard electrolysers, that are those offered for individual vehicles and that are of very low quality,
even very dangerous for some of them, but still very expensive, or some electrolysers for buses or trucks, that are of large size and
very expensive (thousands dollars each) , but of course they are very good in quality because they are used by professionals and
warranted by insurances (they are filled with electronic and need a costly maintenance not affordable by particulars).
We thought about offering a bridge between this 2 choices, with a simple and low price, but efficient and reliable system.

4. The manufacture of a reliable and simple electrolyser for your vehicle.
We will start by describing the different possibilities and see their advantages and problems, for you to understand clearly why we
choose the model described in this book. And then we will show the detailed plans and the different steps of building recom-
mended, and we will then talk about variations that can be made on the basic model.
A — Different configurations of electrolysers and their defaults :

Often the first thing done by an experimenter in water electrolysis is to take simply 2 pieces of metal, as electrodes, connected to a
battery, and to immerge them in a bucket of water.
If the water is sufficiently conductive and the battery has enough power, electrolysis starts, and water being separated in its 2
main constituents that are hydrogen and oxygen, these 2 gases come up to the surface, and that’s how we see bubbles coming of.
It’s exactly what it’s about in the fuel saving electrolyser systems, but we will improve the reaction to our best and make the appa-
ratus adapted to our use and needs.
This composed gas that comes from the water is mainly made of 2 parts of hydrogen and 1 part of oxygen, H2O (2 atoms of hydro-
gen to 1 atom of oxygen, H – O – H), and then we could call it simply ‘water gas’ or ‘gas from water’ or ‘gaseous water’ … (we don’t
count the numerous other gases present, usually dissolved in the water, because they are in very small quantity)
It’s important to keep the 2 components together, without separating them, because their combustion, their re-association in liq-
uid water, will release much more energy than just using the hydrogen, for example. This has been proved scientifiqualy.
This gaseous mix is very powerful as you could see with a simple experiment, by filling a small plastic bottle with this gas, mineral
water type, and igniting it with a flame at the end of a long stick. It will produce a very noisy bang and the bottle will be propelled
straight forward at a tremendous speed. (take note that I don’t encourage you to do that, because it is dangerous).
Because of this strong explosive power, this gas will be useful in our quest of fuel saving, also because it has a very fast ignition
rate, and it will contribute to burn faster and more completely the fuel gases already present in the engine cylinders at ignition
time. It will work with gasoline and even better with diesel, but also with LPG, GPL or any other hydrocarbon fuel, even out of an
engine, like in a furnace.
Considering that we use a standard car electric system to supply power to our electrolyser (12 Volts battery + alternator develop-
ing 13,8 Volts while running), and that water electrolysis starts at around 2 volts, we will adapt our apparatus for the less possible
lost of power, and that the maximum of the used electricity will serve to produce the combustible gas mix.
A system composed of only 2 electrodes, as it is the case in many systems for sale on internet, whatever the size of this electrodes,
will have a very low efficiency, because 12 Volts will be used where only 2 Volts are enough, and then 85% of the energy will be
wasted (10 Volts out of the 12 will be wasted, it’s 85% wasted), and this energy not used in the electrolysis process will be trans-
formed in excessive heat, that will increase dramatically the acidity of the electrolyte and the electrodes will be attacked and de-
stroyed in a very short time. This heat will accumulate and may bring the water to boil, what will add a risk of explosion under an
excessive pressure of the container, and also it may will release toxic and corrosive vapours that could carry some of the electrolyte
to the engine.
By experience we understood that it was NOT possible to build an electrolyser of good quality, long lasting and without dangers, by
using simply 1 cell of electrolysis connected directly to a 12 or 14 Volts tension.
And even putting 3 or 4 cells in series, bringing the voltage down to 4 or 5 Volts per cell is not enough, because the exceeding en-
ergy, not necessary to the electrolysis process, is transformed to heat that accumulates often in a very short time of a few minutes
and bring always the system to an self-destruction process by total corrosion of the electrodes, sometime in less than 20 minutes.
Some people increase the electrode surface or limit the power supplied, the Amperes of current that pass in the electrolysis, by
rendering the water less conductive in this case, to limit the accumulation of heat. Some use small electrodes immersed in large
volumes of water to increase the heat dissipation capacity, what gives a large size apparatus for a little output power.
Others will add a cooling fan or two, or will suggest you to place you electrolyser in front of a wind refreshing spot. I saw some
suggesting to use the electrolyser for less than 20 minutes trips only…

Such configuration is called ‘parallel electrodes’ and can be envisaged only if you use, before the electrolyser, a tension trans-
former that will reduce the power supplied to around 2 Volts per cell.
Such a transformer, from DC 12-14V to DC 2V , delivering 10 to 30 amperes is something that doesn’t exist off the shelf, or it will
be very expensive end voluminous (for example more than 500 Euros) and reserved for professional use. Building it yourself is cer-
tainly possible, but it will be expensive and will need some expertise in electronic ...
Anyway such a transformer, or an electronic circuit to reduce the tension, with a strong current like 10 or 30 Amperes depending
on the vehicle model, as we have seen ourselves during our researches, because we made such DC to DC transformers, release a lot
of heat itself, and becomes quite delicate and dangerous to place on a vehicle. And then it needs a very large heat sink, with enor-
mous fins, that become very hot, and it’s an expensive material.
High standard electrolysers, like those for trucks and buses, that cost a few thousands Euros each, are equipped with such trans-
formers that allow them to work on only 1 electrolysis cell composed of 2 electrodes only. So it’s possible, but not affordable for
everybody, and then it doesn’t fit our specifications.
We can reach the same results of high efficiency by using 6 or 7 cells placed ‘in series’ and that will make the manufacturing sim-
pler, reduce the costs, and more important, it allows us to do it without any electronic circuit, that are often the first to wear done
or to present major failure, especially with an home made or semi-industrial production.
B — The model we selected :
It’s riches of this experiences that we selected the model described in this book, that is of low cost and simple, but safe and very
efficient, reliable and practical. It’s the rectangular model with multiple cells in series.
This apparatus is composed mainly of Stainless Steel (304 or 304L or 316 or 316L), what makes it strong and durable, very well
adapted to be use in a vehicle. Anyway for us it was compulsory to use Stainless Steel, and not plastic or glass, because it’s the only
way for 100% protection against any eventual explosion risk. What ever you say, a system made of plastic tubes can’t resist to the
ignition of it’s contain of water gas, hydrogen + oxygen. Of course it might exist high pressure resistant plastic, but we haven’t seen
any explosion tests made until now, and we went directly to safer metallic containers.
Between the Stainless Steel pieces, external frames, internal frame making reservoir, and the electrodes, are inserted the rubber
gaskets, all cut on the same model, same dimensions, simply.
The others parts are external to the electrolyser itself, and are the electricity supply elements, cables, switch, automatic relay and
fuse, and also the elements bringing the produced gases to the engine, a thick plastic tube, resistant to heat , like those used in
compressed air applications, with its fixation rings. And that’s all.
Composed of little parts, our electrolyser will be easy to build with somebody having a welding machine type TIG (Tungsten Inert
Gas) specific for fine welding of Stainless Steel, or by any metalworking shop that will be able to make this simple elements.
We choose a take-down version because it’s essential for this kind of apparatus. Because standard electrolysis of water will always
release particles dissolved in the water, or create some partial metallic oxidation of the electrodes, the apparatus will come to satu-
ration and will need an internal cleaning, on a regular basis. Cleaning of the electrode surfaces and renewing of the electrolyte.
We can say that this cleaning of the internal parts of the electrolyser is the only operation maintenance necessary on this type of
electrolyser. By experience it should happen every 5.000 kilometres, or 3 months of utilisation. Some persons do this cleaning less
often, and wait for the electrolyser production rate to be at a minimum to do it. If the electrodes are dirty, the current won’t be
able to pass, and the hydrogen production will diminish, what will just reduce the fuel savings, and in no case be damageable for
the apparatus. It just quit functioning and that’s all.
Of course refilling with distilled water will be necessary also on a regular basis, depending of your utilisation.; from once a week to
once a month in many cases.

FRONT VIEW of the ELECTROLYSER describ-
Scale : 1/1

PROFIL VIEW of ELECTROLYSEUR, A5 size, Stainless Steel.
scale : 1/1

## Building steps :
# Build the 2 external frames : total external dimensions 210 x 150mm (A5)
External frame (make 2 pieces) , in Stainless Steel, made from square tube 12,5 x 12,5 (1/2’’x1/2’’) for the external part,
square tube 25 x 12,5 (1’’ x 1/2’’)for central part. The 2 parts (sub-frames) are welded strongly together.
40mm (1.5‘’)
40mm (1.5‘’)
Multiple weld points,
to unite strongly the
105mm (4.25‘’)
2 sub-frames.
150mm (6‘’)
125mm (5‘’)
75mm (3‘’)
210mm (8.5‘’)
185mm (7.5‘’)
135mm (5.5‘’)
10 holes diameter 7mm,
for compression screws
that unite the apparatus.
Central sub-frame, external dim. almost 185 x 125
Composed os square tube 25 x 12,5
External sub-frame, ext. dim. 210 x 150mm

1/1

# To build the internal tank frame :
This frame is used to store some water and to condensate the vapour. It gives a volume to increase the quantity of electrolyte in
the apparatus, offering less frequent water refilling, and also it’s an expansion volume for the condensation of the wet gaseous
water vapour produced between the electrode plates. This is a simple and clever way to reduce the exhaust of vapour.
This model of electrolyser in completely resistant to eventual ignition of the gases mix filling it, of course if you rrespect the thick-
ness of Stainless Steel recommended, and then you don’t need a bubbler for that purpose, nor other protection against flame flash
back coming from the carburettor that can ignite the gases. We have tested this explosion proof capacity with repetitive ignitions.
This internal tank frame is built with stainless steel square tube 25mm x 12,5mm (1’’x1/2’’). It has an external dimension equal to
the electrode plates, 185mm x 125mm (7.5’’x 5’’). Welding in the angles must be full to contain the water that will be introduced
inside the electrolyser.
It is also very important to create a flat surface at the corner junctions of this frame, to offer a complete waterproofing after addi-
tion of the 2 rubber gaskets on each side of this frame. You must be sure to fill completely the welding lines in these areas and then
to grind them properly because a flat surface is necessary for maximum pressure against the gaskets to prevent any leaking.
In the middle of the top side of this tank frame will be inserted and welded an elbow pipe, diameter 10mm, that will serve as ex-
haust for the gases produced towards the place they’ll be used. This elbow need to be introduced from the top side, and to go
through all the high of the frame to the inside surface of the frame where it will be welded properly, to prevent the gases to go
inside the square tube frame itself.
The stainless steel elbow must be long enough to be at least 15mm apart from the top side of the frame, to facilitate the fixation of
the tube that bring the gases produced to their place of utilisation (engine air intake, burner, welding torche, …)
Internal frame (in bold lines), against one of the external frames (in light lines)
15mm
125mm (5‘’)
25mm (1‘’)
185mm (7.5‘’)
100mm (4‘’)
12,5mm (1/2‘’)
Front view scale : 1/2 Profil view

Internal tank frame , to increase the water capacity and condensate the vapours.
Gases exhaust toward the engine air intake.
Gas exhaust, made from stainless steel pipe

diameter 10mm, welded on the inside surface of
the frame, to be waterproof, it will be 15-25mm
aprt from the frame to connect your gas pipe
that goes to the engine or burner.
Internal frame,
Made of square tube 25 x 12,5mm
External dimensions 185 x 125
Internal dimensions 160 x 100
)
m (1‘’
25m
12,5mm (1/2‘’)
Warning : Corners must be filled with welding

material, and well flattened and polished, on
both sides, to offer a good surface for the water-
proofing gaskets pressed against these surfaces.
Scale : 1/1

# Making of the electrodes:
Like we are making an apparatus composed of 6 cells, we will need 3 stainless steel plates of thickness 1,2mm and 5 plaques of
thickness 0,8mm (if you choice to make 7 cells for optimum efficiency, or because you live in hot weather country, add 1 more
plate; the more the cells the best the efficiency but in cold area the starting of electrolysis would be very slow at 7cells).
The 1,2mm plates are used at the extreme sides of the apparatus, and also inside as second side of the tank area, to offer enough
resistance in case of flash-back flame igniting the gases contained in the electrolyser. We made several tests with plates only 1mm
thick, and they contained the gas explosion after ignition, but often they get deformed by the extreme pressure, so we decided to
increase the thickness of this side plates to 1,2mm to prevent any problem.
The 0,8mm thick plates are used as electrodes in the internal part of the electrolyser. This thickness offers a very long lifespan to
this electrodes, in the case where they were to wear out, while offering an acceptable weight. Of course there is no problem for
you if you want to use thicker plates.
The plates are of the same external dimensions as the internal tank frame described previously.
One of the plates of thickness 1,2mm has an ergot with an hole to connect the positive wire (+) coming from the battery. The nega-
tice wire (-) is connected to one of the compressing screws of the frames, where it is more practical, depending on the positioning
of the electrolyser in the vehicle.
Electrodes (in bold lines), viewed with other elements (in light lines)
5 plates thickness 0,8mm 3 plates thickness 1,2mm

Connection for positive (+) wire
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
External composed frame

Tank
6 electrolysis cells
Front view Drawing scale : 1/2 Side view

# Fabriquer les 3 plaques électrodes d’épaisseur 1,2mm, numéro 1, 2 et 8:
# Plaque n°1: The plate we call number 1, is the one on the extreme right side on the general view drawing, it is between the
tank frame and the external composed frame on the right side. This plate isn’t an electrode because it must NOT be electrified, and
as just the function of closing the tank, and it’s on this plate that are fixed the water level control pipe and the opening to refill in
water, as described below.
This plate must be insulated electrically from the external frame (this frame is negative like the car’s body) with a gasket same as
those used in the rest of the electrolyser. Because if this plate was in electrical contact with the external frame, it would become
negative, and it would produce electrolysis in the electrolyte tank area, because the other plate in front, the first of the electrode
series is connected to the positive of the electrical circuit ( number 2 on the drawing). This is not wished because it then would be a
12Volts tension between the 2 sides of the tank area, and it would generate electrolysis at very low efficiency and heat release,
that would be in parallel of our high efficiency circuit containing 6 or 7 cells.
This plate doesn’t need to be grinded/unpolished for electrolysis efficiency because it isn’t an electrode, and can stay as original.
This plate doesn’t have the holes for water and gas circulation.
This plate will have 2 holes diameter 10mm where will be welded the 2 small elbows for the water level control system.
It needs also a third hole, diameter 25mm (1 inch) to weld the filing elbow (3/8 inch) that will be used to refill the electrolyser in
water. Of course you can use other elements (like screw able plastic connectors) for the water level control, but those described
here have made their proves and are very cheap and very robust, and can resist to heat and alkaline corrosive electrolyte without
problems.
As cap we found an oil crankcase carter of a certain type that fit perfectly this 3/8’’ Stainless Steel elbow, with a ring gasket for
waterproofing, and of course it is heat resistant (from Honda 100cm3 local small motorbike, we tried a few before succeeding).
Plate 1
Waterproof tight cap,
Front side and heat resistant.
Transparent pipe to view le

water level, diameter 13, (½’’).
3/8 inch stainless steel

elbow
(diameter 25mm)
Fixation
rings. Hole diameter 25mm
where to weld the 3/8 inch
pipe elbow.
2 holes diameter 10mm to

weld the 2 waterlevel elbows.
Elbows made from
10mm St. St. tube.
Drawing scale : 1/2

View of platue number 1 with all its elements fixed :
Plate 1
Front side
Front view Drawing scale : 1/2 Profil view
The elements fitting on this plate must be welded slowly to avoid deformation of the plate, however a bit of deformation is al-
lowed because it will be flattened back under the pressure while screwing all the elements of the electrolyser together. But they
must be welded with precision to offer waterproofing and avoid leaking of the gases contained in the electrolyser.
Placement of the water refilling elbow is important, because it must allow an easy manipulation of its cap, opening and closing,
depending of the position of your electrolyser in the vehicle.
The refilling elbow is placed, as indicated on the drawings, way under the maximum filling level of the electrolyser, for the reason
that in that position we are sure to free an important volume directly at the top of the electrodes, and like that the produced gases
can already condensate before arriving in the expansion chamber at the top of the tank area. And most important, this empty
space on top of the electrolysis cells offer a simple method to solve the foam problem that often happen when we use this kind of
electrolyte and electrolysis process.
We found that it’s important to let this empty volume on the top of the cells, even if it reduces the volume of water, and the useful
electrode surface, because it’s the simplest system to stop the foaming problem and to contribute efficiently to the drying of the
produced gases. Of course nothing is stopping you to add supplementary external system(s) to increase the drying of the gases, but
this simple solution that takes not so mush place has been satisfying for us, so far.
Our model of onboard electrolyser has the advantage to be an ‘all in one’ system, where we can go along without adding other
elements like bubblers or flash-back arrestors.
Then the production of an onboard electrolyser, robust, safe, with a small size and high efficiency, becomes fast, easy and cheap.
Only one element, no electronic circuit, no bubbler and no flame arrestor. This basic concept could facilitate the use of this kind of
system in the developing world, where the vehicle are usually the most polluting. It could also be the basic building brick of a more
sophisticated system for the more developed countries.

# Plate n°2:
The plate number 2 is the second wall of the frame used as water tank, it’s also the first electrode, because its face on the side of
the many electrodes will be the positive electrode (+) of the electrolyser.
It’s on this plate that is welded the connection ergot, on its top edge, where the positive wire will be connected (+) from the elec-
tric system of the electrolyser. This ergot need to be long enough to be drilled with a hole to introduce the fixation bolt for the wire
connection. Be careful to have sufficient distance between the bolt and the other metallic parts of the apparatus, to avoid all risk of
short-circuit. We suggest to incline the ergot, as indicated on the drawing, to move it away further from the tank’s frame and the
gas exhaust elbow.
This plate will be grinded on one of its faces, and will have 3 drillings that are the two 10mm diameter holes on the top part and
the 3mm diameter one on the bottom. The 2 top holes are for the easy evacuation of the gases produced by electrolysis, and the
small one is for a minimum electrolyte fluid circulation, to obtain the same level of electrolyte in each cell and in the tank area,
while minimizing the electric leaks between the opposed electrodes.
Plate 2, Welded conection ergot for positive wire (+), dimension 12mm large x 20mm long.
electrode + Drill 5mm hole to introduce the electric connector bolt.
50mm (2’’)
2 holes diameter 8
20mm
to 10mm, with axles
35mm
placed 15-20mm
from edges. 20mm
Grinded face
Polished face
185 mm
Face grinded with

electric grinder, to
facilitate electrolysis.
8mm
The space around the

grinded area is where the
gasket will be placed.
Count 6 to 8mm large.
3 mm diameter hole, for

electrolyte circulation .

# Plaque n°8:
The electrode plate number 8 is the last of the group, it’s on the extreme left side on the complete view diagram.
Its thickness is 1,2mm because it’s at one of the reinforced extremity of the electrolyser.
It’s the negative electrode (—) in our set of 6 or 7 cells placed in parallel line. This electrode is placed directly against the composed
external frame, without electrical insulation, because like this there will be electrical connection with the frame that is negative (-).
The choice for negative polarity for the external frame of the electrolyser is dictated by the fact that the metallic body of a vehicle
is always negative. Then if our electrolyser is placed or fixed to the screws of its external frame on the vehicle’s body, there won’t
be short-circuit, both parts being of negative polarity. It’s always the case in electrical apparatuses, being on a vehicle or not.
This electrode plate will be grinded on one of its face only, the negative electrode face, and it won’t have any hole drilled in nor
ergot added.
Plate 8,
125mm (5’’)
electrode
(—)
35mm
One face polished

One face grinded
185 mm
Grinded surface, to
facilitate electrolyse.
8mm
The space around

the grinded area is
where the gasket
will be placed. Count
6 to 8mm large.

# Making the 5 plates of thickness 0,8mm, plates number n°3 to 7:
The 5 plates numbered 3, 4, 5 ,6 and 7 on the general view, are all identical and very simple to make.
They have the same dimensions as all other plates of this electrolyser, 185mm x 125mm, and the 5 have a minimum thickness of
0,8mm (thicknesses of less than 0,8mm have been tested but they get distorted after use, because of the heat in the electrolyser,
and they are more difficult to work with, specially for drilling operations always more delicate with stainless steel).
They are all worked on the same design, each having both faces scratched with an electric hand grinder, and with drilling of the 3
holes, 2 on the top part 8 to 10mm in diameter, and 1 in a bottom corner of diameter 3mm or less if possible.
Be careful that they stay well flat after preparation, because they must be right straight and flat to avoid risks of short-circuit be-
tween to plates while running. The smaller the gap between the plates, the straighter they must be. Bumps would create bad bal-
ancing of the electrolysis current repartition on the total surface, because electricity always takes the shorter ways to go, and that
would create concentrations of current on small areas, what could overheat and accelerate the destruction of this area, and that
would decrease the overall efficiency of the apparatus.
Plates electrodes
n°3, 4, 5, 6 and 7
20mm
2 holes diameter 8
35mm
to 10mm, with axles

placed 15-20mm 20mm
from edges.
Grinded face
Grinded face
185 mm
Face grinded with

electric grinder, to
facilitate electrolysis.
8mm
The space around

the grinded area is
where the gasket
will be placed. Count
6 to 8mm large.
3 mm diameter hole, for

electrolyte circulation .

# Making the rubber gaskets that separate the electrodes:
Now we must make the gaskets that fit between the electrode plates, and the final tightening and compression that will give the
waterproofness of the electrolyser and they will keep the electrodes apart at a fix distance to obtain a good electrolysis.
These gaskets will simply be cut out with an hand cutter, out of standard rubber shit. Choice a quality that can resist to moderate
heat, like those for automotive use, and that can withstand to the compression and to the alkaline electrolyte. Our electrolyte
won’t be very corrosive, because we use only a little bit of sodium hydroxide, but with the heat generated by the electrolysis proc-
ess we still have to choice a good material, especially if we don’t want to change them every year.
The thickness we recommend is 4mm, that become around 3mm or little less after the compression created after tightening of the
assembling screws. This thickness gives a good place for evacuation of the gas bubbles released from the water, while offering a
good power rate of electrical current flow with a very low chemical concentration in electrolyte.
Some will use less thick rubber to decrease the total size of the electrolyser, or to increase the electrical power ratio flowing in the
same electrolyte, electrodes being closer to each other, current can flow more easily.
Using a thinner joint, 2mm for example, would be to consider in the case of Stanley MEYER’s electrolysis concept, called resonant
electrolysis, being more exactly Radiant Electrolysis, using high voltage pulsed perfect mono directional DC electricity at high fre-
quency, where the recommended distance between electrodes is 1,2mm. Look for details and translations on this type of electroly-
sis that allows to exceed the theoretical production of watergas calculated by the thermodynamic law, by using cold electricity,
fractional electricity, discovered by Nicola TESLA at the end of the 1800’s. We have lots of info on the subject, see at
www.Tesla3.com, about replications by Jean-Louis NAUDIN, Dave Lawton, Ravi RAJU, Aaron MURAKAMI, Bob BOYCE, P. LOWRIE...
So one of the numerous advantages of this model of electrolyser is that it can be taken apart, and can be modified easily to re-
spond to you needs or for trials in electrolysis.
All the 9 gaskets are exactly the same. Cut the external rectangle to dimension first, then trace and cut the internal frame, leaving a
width of 6 to 8mm. Be careful not to cut too long inside, because it could generate electrolyte leaks. Don’t use rubber with string
inside, because the electrolyte will escape slowly through that string.
9 gaskets, frame formed.

Gasket, frame form
150mm
135mm

Water tank
185mm
Scale : 1/2

# Assembly:
Now that we made all the few pieces comprised in this electrolyser, we have to assemble them. This is very easy, but
you need to be careful to place them correctly with a certain precision to avoid further problems.
So take one of the 2 external composed frames and prepare small spacers to put underneath the frame, to place it at
around 2 inches, 50mm, from the ground.
Introduce stainless steel screws 90 à 100mm long, depending the thickness of your electrolyser (you can introduce
one on each side to start with), and turn over the frame for the screws to have their head down, and put that on the
spacers.
Put a first gasket well in place along the inside part of the composed frame (that’s the gasket that will insulate electri-
cally the plate number 1), then add the plate number 1, the one with the water level and the filling tip. You’ll see the
spacers serve to compensate the thickness of this filling tip.
Then add another gasket, then the tank frame, then another gasket, then the plate number 2, the one with the con-
nection ergot.
Then you still have to place the other 5 electrodes plates of 0,8mm, separated by gaskets, then you continue with the
last plate, the number 8, and finally you can place the second external composed frame.
Introduce the screws in the holes of the second frame, place the washers and screw the nuts on. If your screws seem
a bit short, in that case use a few much longer screws placed in the corners of the frames to start to compress all the
pieces together, and when you reach the thickness where you can fit the shorter screw, replace the longer ones.
A strong compression is necessary to create a good waterproofness, and you will be able to tight again you screws
anytime if you detect some leakage along the gaskets. Once well tight the electrolyser won’t trouble you anymore,
and will stay water tight for a very long time.
That’s it, the electrolyser is already assembled, now you’ll have to fill it with electrolyte and to connect it to the
power source for it to work. As you see this concept is very easy to assemble.
Assembling the elements.
Spacers
Sc. : 1/2

# Starting the beast:
Your electrolyser well assembled, well tight, waterproof, you have to fill it with electrolyte and to connect it electrically for the first
tests. Then you’ll have to fix it in your vehicle and to complete the installation with the connection to the air intake, and that’s all.
# Waterproofness testing:
It’s best to do the waterproofness tests with water only, not electrolyte, because in case of eventual leak, it won’t create damages.
For that purpose you must use distilled water, or deionised water, or reverse osmosis filtered water (it’s sometime cleaner than
distilled water), to avoid contamination risks of the inside of the electrolyser. (Use water for ironing)
Fill the electrolyser will pure water, and wait overnight to see if there is no leakage along the gaskets, between the tighten ele-
ments. If there is a leak, you’ll need to tight your bolts more to increase the pressure on the gaskets. Of course be sure to control
the placing of the elements, because the leak could be due to wrong alignment of some pieces.
# Preparing the electrolyte:
You have to use pure water (distilled, deionised for battery, or filtered by Reverse Osmosis), and a few grams only of pure Sodium
Hydroxide. Our opinion is that it’s the best catalyst product to use, because it’s quite harmless at the concentration we use it, and
above all it doesn’t release corrosive gas that could destroy your apparatus.
Know that Sodium Bicarbonate (baking powder) and Salt (table salt or Sea salt) must be avoided, because they release deadly
gases during electrolysis process, Carbon Monoxide for the baking powder, and Chlorine gas from the salts. In the case of Chlorine
gas you’ll be able to smell it, but the carbon monoxide is odourless !
Also the Sodium Bicarbonate dwill be consumed during the process and you’ll have to add some more all the time, while the que
la Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide, NaHO), isn’t consumed and you won’t need to add some frequently.
Also the Chlorine gas is very corrosive, and it will immediately attack the internal metallic parts of the electrolyser to destroy
them, and also your vehicle, because in penetrating in your engine parts it will attack them !
We always use the Caustic Soda (NaOH, Sodium Hydroxide), in very small quantities, and that’s easy to buy in supermarkets, under
liquide form also called Washing Soda (1 euro per 1L bottle at 30% concentration), or under flakes or granules form to unclog
drains, like the brand Red Devil in USA. Check that it’s a pure product and not mixed with something else. You can also obtain it in
flakes form at chemical supplier companies, it’s used for industrial cleaning, in paper industry and others as bleaching product.
Start with a coffee spoon in a 1 litre water bottle, and see if this gives you enough Amperes. If you want more power, more current
going through the electrolyser, add more product. (If you were to use 10 grams of NaHO, 1 spoon, for 1 litre of water (1.000
grams), it would represent a 1% concentration only !)
The second product that is often used as electrolyte chemical is Potassium Hydroxide (KOH), but it’s a much more expensive prod-
uct that is also more difficult to find, and also you have to use a lot of it for the same conductivity compared to NaHO.
NaOH is NOT compatible with PVC (Polyvinyl Chlorine), and the KOH is NOT compatible with PC (Polycarbonate, Lexan).
If you have a problem of excessive foaming in your electrolyser, for example if your Sodium Hydroxide is not pure and mixed with a
little soap, you can add a few drops of diesel fuel in your electrolyte, to change the surface tension, and the foam disappears.
By very cold weather, to avoid freezing of your electrolyte, you have to had anti-freezing product, like for the water in your engine
cooling circuit. You can use Calcium Chloride, 20% by volume in your water, or alcohols like Ethylene Glycol or Propylene Glycol, at
same concentration as your engine cooling circuit.

# Theories of electrolysis and Water Gas :
In classical theory, the minimum voltage to dissociate water through electrolysis is 1,23 Volts at 25°C. At this voltage
the reaction needs thermal energy coming from the outside. At 1,47 V and the same temperature, there is no need for
external heat. At higher voltages, it’s the electrolysis process that releases heat, and heat the surroundings.
A solution to improve the efficiency of our apparatus would be to use the engine heat to reduce the voltage needed
for the electrolysis process in each cell, what would allow us to increase the number of cells in series producing gas,
and then we could get more gas with the same input current used. We can do it with a complicated apparatus
equipped with an electronic circuit control and temperature, but it’s not the subject of this book, because we rae first
interested in a high efficiency apparatus but simple and cheap to build.
Then our electrolyser will release heat, because we apply around 2,3 Volts per celle (13,8V alternator : 6 cells = 2,3V
per cell), what is much more than the 1,47V minimum required, and it should reach its cruise temperature
(equilibrium between the heat produced and the dissipated heat) in a few dozens of minutes at summer time. We
noticed that the external plate’s temperature doesn’t go beyond 70°C, what is acceptable because it’s less than the
temperature present under the hood, and much less than the boiling point of water (100° C).
If the water in the electrolyser was to boil because of the excess of heat, it would increase enormously the corrosive
power of the electrolyte, and would bring the destruction of the electrodes, and would release chemically charged
vapours that could eat the engine; that’s why we advise against using less than de 5 or 6 cells in series, like in some
commercialised systems, because in that case the heat released is very high and brings the water to ebullition.
People living in an area where the ambient temperatures are not cold can try to add a 7th cell to the electrolyser,
going to 1,97V per cell, to increase efficiency and reduce heat released, but the starting of the electrolysis process up
to its cruise level production will be slower. It’s by experience that we limited our electrolysers to 6 cells in series, be-
cause in that case the gas production reaches a good rate in a very short time.
We must know that the gaseous mix produced by the electrolyser, the Water Gas, is a mix of Hydrogen, for 2 thirds,
and oxygen for 1 third (the water molecule is mainly composed of 2 atoms of Hydrogen and 1 of Oxygen, H2O = H—
O—H), but it releases more energy when it’s burned than the some of the energy obtained by burning the hydrogen
and the oxygen separately. Yes, it’s proved since a long time by experimenters in this domain, but it’s not accepted by
the mainstream of science, and that’s why it’s not written down the class books.
In certain conditions the released energy can be up to 4 time the energy released by burning the hydrogen. It’s
strange but it’s true. That’s why our interest is NOT to separate the 2 gases produced, and to send them mixed, di-
rectly to the place where they will be burned.
The supplement of a little volume of hydrogen during the combustion of an hydrocarbon has been proved to increase
the efficiency and to eliminate the polluting particles since a long time already. Yes, our Water Gas has even a more
beneficial effect than hydrogen, because for the same volume it produces a bigger bang, a greater thermal power.

5. Installation on the vehicle:
# Fixation of the apparatus:
- never install the apparatus in the interior of the car or in a place potentially in contact with an human or an animal.
- install the apparatus in a well ventilated place where the heat it will produce will be able to escape easily.
- never install the apparatus in to hot a place, to avoid overheating of the electrolyte. Maximum 75°C.
- fix the apparatus tightly and well vertical , for an optimal functioning .
- think about leaving an easy access for the refilling in water.
- allow a mobile fixation to take the apparatus out for the regular cleaning maintenance operations.
# Connection of the electrical and gas exhaust circuits: there are 2 parts connected to the apparatus :
A– Electrical part: it’s simple, like for every electrical apparatus connected on a vehicle, be careful to use good quality material,
cables, switches and fuses that can withstand the power you plan to use, for example 20A. Use material to connect big audio sys-
tems on cars, fat cable, power fuses, …. Because we use DC current, you’ll have to reduce unused length of cables, or you will lose
lots of power and heat the cables.
On the positive side (+), insert a fuse (for example 20A, it depends of the power of the apparatus installed), and also a manual
switch (for manipulations, tests and for safety ), and of course an automatic relay in 12V and 20-30A that will be used to start the
electrolyser when you start the engine of the vehicle (it’s just standard materiel and installation)
On the negative side (—), you just need to connect the body of the electrolyser to the metallic body of the vehicle. We say ‘put to
mass’. Use also an electric cable big enough for the power needed. Don’t use simple house wire, because it will overheat very fast
with 10 or 20A flowing along, it’s made for AC, not for DC !!
B— Produced gases part: it’s also very simple, because you just need a length of pipe (hard one and heat resistant) between the
exit tip of the electrolyser to the air intake pipe of the vehicle. Punch a small hole in your rubber intake pipe, and introduce simply
the extremity of your pipe bringing the gases to burn inside; engine vacuum will do all the work to transfer the gases produced to
the combustion chamber.
Connection diagram of the HYDRO-REACTOR : The pipe bringing gases out of the
HYDRO-REACTOR is connected to
Security manual 20 A fuse the air intake of the engine.
switch
Ergot (+)
Automatic Relay connected

to ignition key.
Air intake
Fuel
Negative wire connec-

ted to reactor’s body. Engine
+ —
12V Battery
# Power tests:
Now that the electrolyser is ready to work, you need to adjust the power delivered. It’s done simply and empirically by varying the
concentration of the electrolyte, I mean by varying the quantity of NaHO added to the water, at the beginning. Remember that this
small quantity of NaHO will stay in the electrolyser, and won’t be consumed over time, just water is to refill regularly.
The model of electrolyser described in this booklet will easily support a power of 10 to 15 Amperes, what will be the minimum to
use for a vehicle with a gasoline engine of less than 2.000 cc, 2 Litres, and a little more in the case of a diesel engine. Diesels will
save much more fuel comparatively to gasoline ones, and they won’t need ignition timing tuning.
We recommend an average power of 10 to 12 Amperes for the described electrolyser. For more power available, double the num-
ber of cells ( 2 x 6 cells for example, see the picture in this book), or increase the dimensions of the apparatus.
Such an electrolyser needs a few minutes to reach cruising temperature, where it’s electrical power will become relatively stable
(the current able to go through increasing with the temperature). When cold starting, the electrolyser will show a smaller consump-
tion than the one it will reach after being hot.
We must adjust the concentration of the electrolyte for the apparatus to consume around 8 Amperes at starting. Then with the
heat increasing, the Amperes will increase to around 10 to 12 at cruise running rate.
Of course you must use an ammeter connected in series to see the power of the apparatus. If you obtain too much Amperes com-
pared to what you wish to have, then you’ll have to dilute your electrolyte with more pure water. At the opposite, if you don’t have
enough Amperes showing up, you’ll have to add a little bit of NaHO in your electrolyte.
After this small adjustments at starting, the power of the apparatus shouldn’t vary too much during use, even when the water level
decrease in the electrolyser. It’s a simple operation and you can remember the concentration in NaHO that you used, for the next
time that you will adjust your apparatus, like after a cleaning operation.
It’s possible that after 1 or 2 weeks of use your apparatus loses a bit of its power. It’s normal, and that’ usually happens only once
at the beginning, with new electrodes having never been used. In this case take-off your apparatus and clean the electrodes before
assembly. It should work fine after that.
The power developed depending also from the heat of the apparatus, it will have a different functioning depending where it’s
placed on the vehicle, and depending of the weather. Placed under the hood it will heat very fast, and may be too much, depending
of your vehicle, and placed outside it will stay much more cool because of the wind created by the speed of the vehicle, but it could
be too cold for the electrolyser to develop a good power. You’ll have to judge by yourself, because each case is different.
# Engine tunning:
Now that your electrolyser is well fixed and adjusted at the desired power, you’ll have to take care of the adjustment of the en-
gine, to obtain maximum fuel saving from the gases you produce in the electrolyser.
Old diesel engines won’t need tuning because they don’t have ignition system. But in the case they have an electronic injection
system, you’ll have to play with the tuning of the computer controlling it, like with gasoline engines.
Gasoline engines will need a delay in the timing adjustment, because the add of hydrogen and oxygen will increase the power of
explosion of the gasoline, and also accelerate the burning rate .
The explosion becoming stronger and faster, we need to delay the ignition to the Top Dead Centre, TDC, or just before, or just
after, depending of the engine inside design. This means that if the ignition happens too early, the explosion of the fuels could go
against the up movement of the piston, and in this case the result is an increase in fuel consumption ; that’s how we know that the
tuning is wrong, when fuel consumption increases.
If you are not qualified to adjust your engine by yourself, bring your car to a professional, explaining to him that the hydrogen sup-
plement created by your electrolyser will accelerate and increase the combustion power of the fuel.

# Onboard computer and oxygen sensor:
Modern vehicles have fuel injection controlled by computer and preset in factory. The use of our electrolyser that will increase the
combustion rate of the fuel and is not taking in account by the computer, and then you’ll have to adjust the injection to reduce the
volume of fuel sent, or cheat the sensors to adjust the injection.
There is a lot of info on internet on that subject, because it seems that all these electronic injections are programmed to refuse any
installation of fuel savers ! Yes, it’s an fact at international level, that proves that all our efforts to reduce our consumption in fuel
are systematically opposed by the car constructors and the petrol lobbies that also add elements in the fuel to go against the posi-
tive effects of the fuel savers discovered.
That’s why numerous persons have looked for and found ways to by-pass the programmed tricks of this electronic injections. The
most simple, and that works in some cases, is to disconnect the car battery for more than 1/2 hour, sometimes overnight, because
after this long disconnection the computer’s memory is reset, and when you reconnect the battery, the program starts back from
zero like at factory exit time, and after a few hundreds kilometres, the electrolyser action is take into account and the injection
sends less fuel, and you can save fuel from that moment.
Of course numerous professionals will be happy to reprogram your injection computer to take account of the hydrogen gas added,
et some will also be able to modify your oxygen sensor that is usually the main indicator for the electronic injection. Also electronic
circuits kits (like EFIE system) are capable to solve this problem, by adjusting the signal received from the oxygen sensor placed in
the exhaust pipe, are for sale on internet.
6. Maintenance of the electrolyser:
The maintenance of this model of electrolyser is simplified, because it’s almost non existent. This apparatus won’t need any
change of parts, nor complicated regular adjusting, even after a long use. It’s almost UNWEARABLE !
After refilling consumed water, you’ll have only to do an internal cleaning of the apparatus each time it’s power is to low.
Month after month the electrodes may become dirty because of deposit accumulating from particles present in the water used,
and also from a kind of insulating organic deposit, what could reduce the flowing of current that is necessary for the electrolysis
process. This can arrived after a few thousands kilometres or more, and in that case you’ll have to take apart the electrolyser to
take out the deposit on the plates.
If you see that your electrolyser doesn't develop it’s full power, try to add a little bit of NaHO in your electrolyte, and if the power
doesn’t come back, it meens that your electrodes are certainly dirty.
7. Eventual modifications on the described model :
After you finish to read this book you’ll be able to think about variations you can take on this model of onboard electrolyser, for
example you’ll decide to increase its dimensions to adapt it to your vehicle or to increase the usable power.
If you keep the essential principles you still can increase the length or the thickness, like doubling the number of cells … Here are
important points:
- It’s important to keep at least 6 cells in series for 12V coming from the battery. If your vehicle works on 24V you’ll need to double
the number of cells in series, to keep around 2V of tension per cell.
- It’s important not to fill completely the electrolyser with water, and to keep an empty space at the top of the cells for the pro-
duced gases to condensate, and for the foam produced to disappear.
- It’s important for the electrolyser to be built in stainless steel of good quality, to make it resistant to explosions, and to avoid its
rusting in contact with the alkaline electrolyte.

# Example of variation on an HYDROREACTOR: here its a double one, 2 times 5 cells, to pass 40 Amperes under 12
Volts, delivering around 3 Litres of water gas per minute (HHO), to be installed on a big diesel engine (small lorry).

# Examples of variations in size of this electrolyser:
6 cells 12 cells 12 cells
in 12Volts in 12 Volts in 24 Volts
Higher
Larger
normal

# Example of variation:
Variation2: this variation has been done by a person that didn’t have square tube of 12,5 x 12,5mm, nor square tube of 12,5 x
25mm. In this variation are used square tubes of 16 x 16mm and 20 x 30mm. The tank frame is constituted with tube of 20x30 and
one of the faces is closed by a shit of 1,5mm welded all around. We didn’t choice this model as basic one because it needs a very
long weld along the edges of the front plate of 1,5mm thick, and it could be costly. But this modification offer to use shorter tight-
ening stainless steel bolts, easier to find and cheaper. Make you own choice ...
SIDE VIEW ,
VARIATION 2
format A5.
Drawing scale : 1/1

# Example of variation: Variation 2 (page 2) :
Frame in square tube, format A5, all in polished stainless steel 304L.
Tube 20x30x1
Welding points Tube 16x16x1
Holes of 10mm
Full weld
Waterproof
All around
175m
210m
150m
Shit 1,5mm
85mm
16mm 20mm 16mm

150m
30mm

# List of elements constituting the basic apparatus described (not variation2):
Nbr Designation : Quantity :
1 External composed frames in stainless steel 2
2 Internal frame used as water tank in stainless steel 1
3 Electrode plates, ss thickness 1,2mm 3
4 Electrode plates, ss thickness 0,8mm 5
5 Rubber gaskets to cut out in frame like form 9
6 Bolts in ss 100mm long 10
7 Elbow in ss tube diameter 10mm 3
8 Elbow in ss tube diameter 25mm 1
9 Cap in plastic for the refilling elbow 1
10 Pipe in plastic for water level + 2 tightening rings 1
11 Pipe in hard plastic and heat resistant to carry the gases 1
12 Thick electric cable for 20 amperes power 1
13 Fuse and socket for corresponding power 1
14 Relay automatic 12V and 30A 1
15 Power manual switch 1
——————————
# Important Recommendations #
Because many users have met with important problems after wrong manipulation or wrong installation of onboard electrolysers,
often because they bought a low quality apparatus to unscrupulous sellers, we decided too create this page where we resume the
important points to avoid that your installation becomes an expensive nightmare.
The onboard electrolyser described in this book is NOT an universal solution to save fuel on all the vehicles, because it’s of a simpli-
fied and cheap building and needs a minimum of understanding of it’s functioning mode, and it needs to be kept in good condition
by a regular, but not frequent, maintenance.
But the concept is universal, because adding a little hydrogen to the combustion of hydrocarbon fuels will always create a fuel
saving and an important reduction of polluting particles. But to make its use universal, we will need to create a much more per-
fected electrolyser than the one described in this book, containing lots of electronic, mostly to regulate the power delivered and to
communicate with the vehicle computers. We must work for the day when all the vehicles will be able to be equipped with such a
system. Of course if the constructors were of good will, it would be done since 50 years at least !
So here is a list of important recommendations that will help you to solve problems you could meet:
# Use a minimum of 6 cells in series in the electrolyser, to reduce the voltage to around 2 Volts per cell (with an alternator giving
12-13,8V). Use 12 cells in series for systems in 24 Volts, and use at least 110 cells in series for systems in 240 Volts. This is to reduce
the energetic losses transformed in destructive heat.
# Use sufficiently closed electrodes to allow you to use only little chemical catalyst in your electrolyte, the NaHO. With a minimum
of 1,5mm apart, to allow produced bubles to escape easily, and maximum 4mm. With closer electrodes, more current can flow and
then less NaHO is required. (Cold electricity electrolysis creating smaller bubbles, electrodes can be closer apart)

# Important Recommendations # (page 2)
# Rinse abundantly everything that comes in contact with the electrolyte (mix of water + NaHO), because it’s corrosive. Especially
be careful with aluminium parts that would be eaten by the NaHO mix !
# Use only stainless steel of thickness higher than 1,2mm to build an electrolyser or a bubbler, because it’s the minimum thickness
to resist to the explosion of the water gas. Plastics and glass are dangerous because much less resistant.
# Don’t use PVC (cold water pipes) with the NaHO, because this plastic is not compatible (see chemical chart next page) it will be-
come very soft, especially if heated.
# Don’t use soft plastic pipe to carry the gases to the engine or for the electrolyser water level, because with the heat it will be de-
stroyed. Use only thick and strong, compression resistant pipe, like those used for compressed air purposes. It’s a bit more expen-
sive but necessary for use with heat of 70° to 100°C like under the vehicle hood.
# Tight well the pipe fixation rings, to avoid the risk of disassembly and the escaping or the accumulation of this explosive gas.
# Use an electrolyser with a sufficient free space on the top of the electrodes, to give place for the foam to reduce and to avoid it to
escape from the electrolyser. This foam contains NaHO and would be very damageable if it was to reach the engine. This space will
also serve to the condensation of the wet gas produced, for it to come out of the electrolyser as dry as possible. Any vapour coming
out the electrolyser might carry some NaHO to the engine.
# Don’t use electrolysers that refill from the top, becoming full of electrolyte until the top level, without free space on top of elec-
trodes. A good quality electrolyser should have a refilling tip on its side, at lower level than the top of the electrolyser.
# Don’t put your electrolyser against the engine, but place it in a well windy place where heat won’t become too high. The electro-
lyser itself produces heat that should stabilise around 70-75 C for the model described here, but placing it in a too hot place could
increase this temperature even more. If the water was to boil in the electrolyser, oxidation of electrodes could take place in a very
short time, and they could be eaten. Also could escape with the water vapour.
# Whatever the configuration of your electrolyser, it’s recommendable to insert a bubbler before the engine, to retain any eventual
overflow of foam or electrolyte. You need the bubble to be in stainless steel at least 1mm thickness, or in plastic with a pop-up cap
in case of explosion, but NEVER use glass because it is very dangerous and harmful !
# Add a manual switch between the fuse and the battery to be able to disconnect the electrolyser manually in case of emergency or
while testing. And connect the electrolyser with the fuel pump, to avoid it to start while the engine is not running, and no to start
just when the contact key is turned on. Because the electrolyser starts to produce the explosive gas immediately when it’s tunred
on, and then, if the engine is not running, the gas produced won’t be burned out, and it could accumulate somewhere and explode
when the ignition is turned on. Accumulating it under the hood or inside the air intake pipes could be very dangerous.
# Know that if you adjust your carburettor/injection to benefit of the maximum fuel saving effects of the electrolyser, you’ll have to
keep it in a good running state, because if it was to stop working, for example because running out of water, your engine specially
tuned could show disfunctionments, and you could have to readjust it to run without the electrolyser.
# Personal remarque :
We hope to create one day a company that could sell this type of electrolyser for those who find it difficult or to expensive to build
it by themselves. We hope to offer different size for different vehicles, car, lorry, bus or boat. Of course we encourage everybody or
every company to involve in the commercialisation of this kind of electrolysers, reliable, strong and efficient, because it will be a
good price/quality ratio apparatus accessible to the public to fight the monopole of the hydrocarbon fuels. We think to install a
production line in a low cost country, to make this onboard electrolyser affordable to everybody around the world. See you soon,
may be ! MDG

# History :
We started to study the onboard electrolysers in 2003, and our first practical tests were in 2005.
It’s just simple electrolysis of water, process known since more than 200 years, but we had to accommodate it to this specific use.
It’s after having tried many different configurations that we learned what was good and what was to avoid. Starting with 2 pieces
os stainless steel immerged in water, we arrived to this electrolyser with 5 to 7 cells in series, explosion proof, having an high effi-
ciency and without risk of major failure, cheap and simple to build.
The systems proposed to professionals , like those to equip trucks or buses, are of a very high quality, warranted and very reliable,
but they are very expensive and then not accessible to individuals, and they also need a costly maintenance.
So far we haven’t come across apparatuses of high quality targeted for individuals, at reasonable prices. Products for sale on Inter-
net are usually simple stainless steel or plastic containers with a few parts inside as electrodes and are of such a low quality that
their users often encounter major problems or failures after short time of utilisation.
We understood that there was essential points to integrate to make a reliable, secure and long lasting onboard electrolyser.
We also understood that we had to work with a simple conception, essentially without electronic, to make it affordable to every-
body, and to offer a very long lifespan for the electrolyser, with many years of function without failure.
Our model was inspired by the work of Mr Tero Ranta who published his plans and photos in 2005:

It’s after reproducing the electrolyser from Mr Tero Ranta that we have evolved to our following model, it was already in stainless
steel, but that was still composed of 2 parts, the electrodes and the bubbler that was also doing office of reservoir to increase the
volume of electrolyte:
Then we evolved again towards a system called “all in one”, the one presented in this book, without bubbler nor flashback arres-
tor, because this model won’t suffer damages even in the eventual case of many back firing; it’s explosion proof, and has also a
good water reserve. It’s to clarify the building steps of this electrolyser that I made this book.

# Examples of professional electrolysers for trucks :
 Go GREEN Fuel Systems:
http://gogreenfuel.com/index.html
Hydrogen enriching Technology .
The Go Green 2448 produce 67.5 litres of Hydrogen and Oxy-

gen per hour of operation (67.5/60 min= 1.125 L/min).
The results of tests show an increase of 10 to 30% of the dis-

tance (MPG).
 CHEC HFI: http://www.chechfi.ca/index.html
Hydrogen injection will :
Reduce polluting emissions . Improve the engine

power and reduce wear of engine oil.
It’s warranted 10% fuel savings.
Needs only small quantities of distilled water to run.

# Examples of electrolysers used for other activities:
- Utilisation for welding purpose :
The Water Gas has incredible qualities in welding . It allows to reach very high tem-
peratures in very short times, while its flame is quite cold by itself , at only 125C. It’s
also very efficient for cutting purpose.
It’s possible to weld 2 different elements, like iron with ceramic or aluminium, the
flame seems to adapt instantly to each material … scientists are still today not capable
to explain the mysteries of the gas coming from the simple electrolysis of water !
It allow also to weld underwater without oxygen flux .
- Industrial utilisations :
South Korea is a leading country developing many industrial applications for the water
gas. Some companies in China, Japan and USA sell all kind of apparatuses based on the
combustion of the water gas.
Kitchen burners for cooking, for heating purpose, incinerators, and also to save fuel in
petrol or gas industrial burners and furnaces.
Possibilities are very numerous, and the Water Gas (Brown’s Gaz ) allow to do without
fossils fuels, and most important delivers instantly larges quantities of fuel, without
having to store it, because it’s made from water with electricity.
- Other utilisations :
In health sector, the water gas is used to energise water through which it’s
passed, and is known to bring benefits to people.
It’s also said to accomplish elemental transmutations, and is used in diving in high
depth because it allows to go 2 times deeper than with helium mix. Numerous
other uses are still under experimentation.

# Thermal and chemical chart for plastics:
CHEMICAL RESISTANCE CHART

(plastics vs. NaOH or KOH)
NaOH KOH Max Use Permeability* Water
(50% to Conc) (Conc) Temp (C) Absorption
(%)
20 °C 50 °C 20 °C 50 °C N2 O2 CO2
Low Density Polyethylene - LDPE G G E E 80 20 60 280 <0.01
High Density Polyethylene - HDPE E E E E 120 3 10 45 <0.01
Polypropylene - PP E E E E 135 4 25 90 <0.02
Polyallomer - PA E E E E 121 6 30 100 <0.02
Polycarbonate - PC E E N N 135 3 20 85 0.35
Polyvinyl Chloride - PVC N N E G 70 .5-2 1-6 10-35 0.06
Polysulfone - PSF E G E E 165 3 15 60 0.30
Polymethylpentene - PMP E E E E 175 65 270 — <0.01
Teflon - FEP E E E E 205 20 60 135 <0.01

Teflon - PFA E E E E 250 — — — <0.03
Halar/Tefzel - ECTFE/ETFE E E E E 150 — — — <0.1
Polystyrene - PS E E G G — — — — —
Polyvinylidene Fluoride - PVDF E G E G — — — — —
*Permeability Units: cc - mm / sec - cm² - cm Hg x 100; 20 °C = 68 °F; 50 °C = 122 °F
KEY:
E -- 30 days of constant exposure cause no damage. Plastic may even tolerate for years.G -- Little or no damage
after 30 days of constant exposure to the reagent.F -- Some effect after 7 days of constant exposure to the rea-
gent. None here.N -- Not recommended for continuous use. Immediate damage may occur. Depending on the
plastic, the effect will be crazing, cracking, loss of strength, discoloration, deformation, dissolution, or permeation
loss.
Note: Polycarbonate (bullet-proof glass) does not hold up well to continuous contact with Hydrogen. Some water
traps are made of polycarbonate.
Do NOT necessarily trust this chart. Variables are such that compatibility tests should be run on any materials before
use. From: http://www.eskimo.com/~ghawk/h-o/chemchrt.htm
"Water contracts up to 3.98 °C and then expands from there. It is one of only a very few substances with a negative
coefficient of volume expansion at some temperatures."
Average velocity in air at 25 °C: Hydrogen -- 4000 mph, Oxygen -- 1000 mph

# List of patents related to onboard electrolysers :
1- 1921, Blumenberg (H. Jr.), US 1,379,077, Process and Apparatus for Generating Explosive Gases.
2- 1944, Carmichael (A.B.), US 2,365,330, Apparatus for Electrolytically Producing Oxygen and Hydrogene.
3- 1949, Crozier (H. E.), US 2,458,256, Water Carburetor.
4- 1963, O'Laughlin (J.F.), US 3,074,390, Fuel Economizer for Internal Combustion Engines.
5- 1966, Rhodes (W.A.), US 3,262,872, Apparatus for the Electrolytic Production of Hydrogen and Oxygen for the Safe Consumption Thereof.
6- 1967, Mittelstaedt (G.S.), US 3,311,097, Hydrogen-Oxygen Device in Combustion Engines.
7- 1970, Grant (D.J.), US 3,490,235, Passively Regulated Water Electrolysis Rocket Engine.
8- 1972, Pacheco (Francisco), US 3,648,668, Gas-Operated Internal Combustion Engine.
9- 1973, Carlson (Richard C.), US 3,767,542, Reduction of Electrolytic Cell Voltage by Anode Vibration.
10- 1976, Horvath (Stephen), US 3,954,592, Electrolysis Apparatus.
11- 1976, Harris (Mack), US 3,969,214, Permanent Magnet Hydrogen Oxygen Generating Cells.
12- 1977, Mosher (Edward G.), US 4,023,545, Energy Means for Internal Combustion Engines.
13- 1978, Blue (Archie H.), US 4,124,463, Electrolytic Cell.
14- 1978, Tangri (Kuldip Chand), US 4,085,709, Hydrogen Fuel System for a Vehicle.
15- 1982, Themy (Constantinos D.), US 4,316,787, High Voltage Electrolytic Cell.
16- 1983, Galluzo (Daniel T.), US 4,369,102, Electrolysis Apparatus for Decomposing Water into Hydrogen Gas and Oxygen Gas.
17- 1983, Sanders (Cledith A.), US 4,369,737, Hydrogen-Oxygen Generator.
18- 1984, Glynn (John D.), US 4,442,801, Electrolysis Fuel Supplementation Apparatus for Combustion Engines.
19- 1984, Sandberg (Lars) (VOLVO), FR 84 13728, Moteur a Combustion Interne a Turbocompresseur avec Injection d'eau.
20- 1984, Han (Tay-Hee), US 4,427,512, Water Decomposition Method and Device Using Ionization by Collision.
21- 1988, McCambridge (Michael), US 4,726,888, Electrolysis of Water.
22- 1992, Munday (John f.), US 5,143,025, Hydrogen and Oxygen System for Producing Fuel for Engines.
23- 1992, Cunningham (John E.), US 5,105,773, Method and Apparatus for Enhancing Combustion in an Internal Combustion Engine Through Elec-
trolysis.
24- 1993, Chiang (Huang C.), US 5,244,558, Apparatus for Generating a Mixture of Hydrogen and Oxygen for Producing a Hot Flame.
25- 1993, Nakamats (Yoshiro), US 5,178,118, Energy System for Applying Mixed Hydrogen and Gasoline to an Engine.
26- 1993, Stowe (Gene B.), US 5,231,954, Hydrogen/Oxygen Fuel Cell.
27- 1995, Nakamats (Yoshiro), US 5,399,251, System for Generating Hydrogen and Oxygen.
28- 1997, Taylor (E. Jennings), US 5,599,437, Electrolysis of Electroactive Species using Pulsed Current.
29- 2000, Chambers (Stephen Barrie) (XOGEN), US 6,126,794, Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or Parahydrogen.
30- 2001, Ross (Bill), US 6,209,493 B1, Internal Combustion Engine Kit with Electrolysis Cell.
31- 2002, Chambers (Stephen Barrie) (XOGEN), US 6,419,815 B1, Method for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or Parahydrogen.
32- 2004, Lund (Bruce D.), US 6,820,840 B2, Hydrogen Powered Toy Rocket Utilizing Hydrogen from the Electrolysis of Water.
33- 2005, Ross (Bill), US 6,896,789 B2, Electrolysis Cell and Internal COmbustion Engine Kit Comprising the same.
34- 2005, Klein (Dennis), US 6,866,756 B2, Hydrogen Generator for Uses in a Vehicle Fuel System.
35- 2006, Christison (J.Devon), US 7,021,249 B1, Hydrogen Addition to Hydrocarbon Fuel for an Internal Combustion Engine.
36- 2007, Balan (Gabi), US 7,240,641 B2, Hydrogen Generating Apparatus and Components Therefor.
37- 2008, Omasa (Ryushin), US 7,318,885 B2, Hydrogen-Oxygen Gas Generatorand Hydrogen-Oxygen Gas Generating Method Using the Generator.

The Hydroreactor English

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

The Hydroreactor English

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

The HYDR REACTOR

A simple guide to build your own

Onboard Hydrogen Generator, an HYDRO-REACTOR !

pollution, less wear of the engine, no maintenance cost

And just WATER to add !

Version : 01 November 2008

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle.

A little bit of electricity to produce enough watergas

to save from 20 to 80% of your fuel !

it’s a fuel 2.5 times more powerful that standard gasoline !

Install an HYDRO-REACTOR and transform your vehicle in an Hybrid-Hydrogen.

Use the power and purity of hydrogen to save your carburant !

Be Green, be modern, Burn water in place of gasoline or diesel !

The onboard production of hydrogen to reduce engines consumption is a prooved

Be Green, say NO TO PETROL and YES TO WATER !

NO to expensive and polluting fuels, YES to water as fuel !

Jump in, boost your engine with an HYDRO-REACTOR !

The hydrogen is produced on demand, no hydrogen is stored, no explosion danger ,

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 2

A simple and efficient system, in 3 steps only:

1. Little electricity, 2. Transformation of 3. Gases to the engine

2. Why installing an electrolyser in your vehicle ?

3. What are the different types of electrolysers used in vehicles ?

An installation in a vehicle could be like this :

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 4

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 5

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 6

A — Different configurations of electrolysers and their defaults :

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 7

B — The model we selected :

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 8

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 9

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 10

10 holes diameter 7mm,

for compression screws

that unite the apparatus.

Central sub-frame, external dim. almost 185 x 125

Composed os square tube 25 x 12,5

External sub-frame, ext. dim. 210 x 150mm

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 11

Front view scale : 1/2 Profil view

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 12

Gases exhaust toward the engine air intake.

Gas exhaust, made from stainless steel pipe

Made of square tube 25 x 12,5mm

External dimensions 185 x 125

Internal dimensions 160 x 100

Warning : Corners must be filled with welding

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 13

5 plates thickness 0,8mm 3 plates thickness 1,2mm

External composed frame

Front view Drawing scale : 1/2 Side view

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 14

Transparent pipe to view le

3/8 inch stainless steel

2 holes diameter 10mm to

Drawing scale : 1/2

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 15

Front view Drawing scale : 1/2 Profil view

Water as fuel ! Build an HYDRO-REACTOR for your vehicle. 16

Face grinded with

The space around the