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Are olives fruits or vegetables?

Olives are fruit, grown on the olive tree, olea europaea. Olive trees
have been cultivated for thousands of years, and were already plentiful
during biblical times. Plucked from the tree, the olive is extremely
bitter, and virtually inedible. Prior to eating, olives are typically cured,
either in brine,water or in oil. Freshly picked olives can also be stir-
fried to remove some of the bitterness before eating.

Where are olives grown?


Major olive producers in the world include countries which border the
Mediterranean Sea (e.g., France, Greece, Israel, Italy, Morocco,
Portugal, Spain, Tunisia, Turkey), as well as California and in South
America. It is reported that Thomas Jefferson tried but failed to
cultivate olive trees in his native Virginia.

How is olive oil produced?


The traditional method of extracting olive oil from the fruit is virtually
the same today as it has been for thousands of years. At harvest time,
which varies from region to region, olives are harvested by hand, and
collected in nets placed around the foot of the tree. A day or two
thereafter, the olives are taken to the mill. Giant stones weighing
several tons are used to crush the olives and pits into mash.

The olive mash is then spread onto thin mats. These mats are stacked,
and placed into a machine "press." As the press applies several
hundred pounds of pressure, oil and water from the mash seep out of
the mats, and drip into collection vats. In the traditional method, no
heat is applied in the pressing--hence the term "first cold pressed." The
oil is allowed to settle, and any vegetable water is removed either by
centrifuge or decantation.
Oil extracted from the mechanical pressing of the olive is described as
"virgin" olive oil, because it is pure, unrefined and unprocessed.

What are the differences among extra virgin olive oil, ordinary
olive oil, and "light" olive oils?
Extra Virgin Olive Oil. "Extra" is the highest grade for olive oil--the
best you can buy. The virgin oil produced from the mechanical
pressing described above may be called "extra" if it has less than 1%
free oleic acid, and if it exhibits superior taste, color and aroma. Thus,
the "extra" in extra virgin olive oil means "premium," or simply, "the
best."

Olive Oil. Ordinary "olive oil" is actually a blended oil product. Olive
oil producers start with low quality virgin olive oils. For these oils to
be fit for consumption, they must be refined using mechanical, thermal
and/or chemical processes. The resulting "refined olive oil" is largely
colorless and tasteless. Before the resulting product is sold as "olive
oil," the producer blends into the refined olive oil a percentage of
quality virgin olive oil to provide color and taste.

"Light" or "Mild" Olive Oil. Light olive oil is a variation on ordinary


olive oil. Producers of this product use a highly refined olive oil, and
add less quality virgin oil than that typically used to blend olive oil.
The only thing "light" about light olive oil is the taste and color; it has
the same caloric and fat content as other oils.

Olive-Pomace Oil. Olive-pomace oil is the residue oil that is extracted


by chemical solvents from previously pressed olive mash. This oil
must be highly-refined to remove chemical impurities. Like ordinary
olive oil, refined olive-pomace oil is enriched with virgin olive oil
prior to sale.

Olive Oil Blends. Olive oil blends (e.g., canola oil enriched with some
virgin olive oil) are sometimes used as a more economical substitute
for olive oil (but not as a substitute for extra virgin olive oil). Because
the production of good olive oil is labor intensive--the olives must
essentially be picked by hand--the resulting product is more expensive
than other vegetable oils. To offer a more economical product with
some of the goodness of olive oil, some companies make olive oil
blends. In an olive oil blend, the producer uses a base of a less
expensive vegetable oil (e.g. canola oil) to which it adds a percentage
(e.g. 25%) of virgin olive oil. These products have proven particularly
attractive to restaurant and institutional purchasers where the small
savings per tablespoon results in big savings due to the large volume
they purchase.

What is the difference between filtered and unfiltered extra virgin


olive oil?
Extra virgin oil may be consumed either in a filtered or unfiltered state.
Filtration is the process by which the microscopic bits of the fruit of
the olive are removed from the oil. Unfiltered oil will be cloudy until it
settles to the bottom. Some consider unfiltered oil superior because of
the added flavor from the fruit, while others say it shortens the oil's
shelf life. Ultimately, it is a matter of personal preference.

Are all extra virgin olive oils the same?


No. Like wines, extra virgin olive oils can vary dramatically in taste,
depending upon the type and quality of the fruit that is pressed, the
time of harvest, the weather during the growing season, and the region
from which the olives were produced.
Connoisseurs generally use the following adjectives in appraising extra
virgin olive oils: mild, semi-fruity and fruity, depending on the flavor
of the olive that can be detected. Further, some oils, such as the finer
oils from Tuscany and Southern Italy, have a peppery finish that many
appreciate.

What are the nutritional components?


A tablespoon of olive oil contains 120 calories, 14 grams of fat, and no
cholesterol. Seventy seven percent (77%) of the fat in olive oil is
monounsaturated, and nine percent (9%) is polyunsaturated fat;
fourteen percent (14%) is vegetable-derived saturated fat. Virgin olive
oils also contain the antioxidants beta-carotene and Vitamin E, as well
as the phenolic compounds tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol.

What makes olive oil a superior product to other oils?


Three things make olive oil superior to vegetable oils: taste, nutrition
and integrity.

Taste is the most obvious difference between olive oil and the
commercially popular vegetable oils such as corn, soybean and canola
oils. These oils are tasteless fats. You would not want to eat a piece of
bread dipped in vegetable oil; for the same basic reason, many chefs
refrain from adding tasteless fat to the foods they prepare. When you
cook with oil, get the most flavor and texture you can.

Olive oil, especially extra virgin olive oil, adds a flavor and textural
dimension lacking in other oils, making it a suitable substitute for
butter and margarine in almost any recipe. In fact, more and more
restaurants are serving extra virgin olive oil, both plain or flavored
with salt and pepper, as an alternative to butter for bread.

Nutritionally, olive oil contains more monounsaturated fat than any of


the popular vegetable oils. For more information on the nutritional
qualities of olive oil versus other oils and fats, please refer to the last
chapter in this booklet.

Moreover, vegetable oils are industrial, processed foods. Vegetable


oils are generally extracted by means of petroleum-based chemical
solvents, and then must be highly refined to remove impurities. Along
with the impurities, refining removes taste, color and nutrients.

Extra virgin olive oils are not processed or refined. It is said that you
do not make extra virgin olive oil, you find it. Extra virgin olive oil is
essentially "fresh squeezed" from the fruit of the olive tree, without
alteration of the color, taste, and nutrients or vitamins. Because of the
integrity of the product, and its antioxidant components, olive oil will
keep longer than all other vegetable oils.

How does olive oil compare with butter or margarine?


Butter and margarine are essentially fats like cooking oils. A
tablespoon of ordinary butter contains twelve grams of fat, of which 8
grams (66%) are saturated fat. In addition, a serving of butter
contains 33 mgs of cholesterol.

Saturated fat and cholesterol have been linked to increased levels of


low density lipoproteins (LDLs)--the "bad cholesterol." Thus,
compared to butter, a serving of olive oil contains much less saturated
fat (only 2 grams) and no cholesterol. The comparison with margarine
is more difficult because the fat breakdown in margarines varies by
manufacturer and ingredient. Margarine typically contains
approximately 10 grams of fat per tablespoon. However, to solidify the
vegetable oils used to make margarine, the oils have to be
hydrogenized. In the hydrogenization process, trans fatty acids are
created. Trans fatty acids have a double whammy effect of increasing
LDLs and lowering the high density lipoproteins (HDLs)--the "good
cholesterol" (see discussion of health issues in last chapter of this
booklet).

Can olive oil be used to replace butter and margarine in recipes?


Yes! Butter and margarine have a pleasant taste, and there are certain
uses of butter and margarine for which there is no satisfactory
replacement in the American Diet--buttered toast at breakfast comes to
mind. ?Extra Virgin Olive Oil has been described as "buttery" by many
consumers in taste tests. Extra Virgin Olive Oil can be used in place of
butter or margarine in many recipes, such as on vegetables, rice,
potatoes, and--yes--even corn on the cob.

How do you store olive oil?


Olive oil should be stored in a cool, dark place. Properly stored, olive
oil can keep for at least two years. It is, however, at its peak within a
year of production, and is its most flavorful for the first two months.
Olive oil should not be stored in the refrigerator. If chilled, olive oil
will become cloudy and eventually solidify or crystallize. Should this
happen, the oil is perfectly fine; just leave the oil at room temperature
for a time to restore it to its natural state.

Can olive oil be used in baking recipes that call for butter,
margarine, vegetable oil or shortening?
Yes! Try olive oil in your muffin and cake and cornbread recipes (but
not in recipes in which butter is the principal flavor like butter cookies
or pound cake).

Can olive oil be used to "grease" a pan in place of butter or


vegetable oil?
Yes!

Can avacado oil or macadamia nut oil be used in place of olive oil?
Yes! These relatively new oils are very healthy and taste great too! We
like to use avacado oil in salad dressings and pan fried potatoes. We
use the macadamia nut oil on broiled fish and asparagus.

Olive oil isn’t really very good for cooking, is it?


Olive oil is actually one of the best oils for cooking and frying. As with
all oils, the smoke point depends on the age and quality, but 410
degrees F is the official figure. "The Joy of Cooking" by Irma
Rombauer recommends frying at 365 degrees F for best results.

What does Extra Virgin or EVO mean?


Let’s start with the term ‘Virgin.’ That means that the olive oil is
extracted from the olives by mechanical means, rather than with
solvents and high heat. All other readily available vegetable oils –
canola, safflower, peanut, etc – even non-virgin olive oil – are
chemically dissolved out of the plant material, and then the solvent is
boiled off. Unless the label on a vegetable or nut oil indicates that it
has been expelled or expressed (and the price confirms this expensive
method), you can assume it has gone through chemical processing.

Now, for the term ‘Extra Virgin.’ This means that the virgin olive oil
has passed chemical tests for purity and taste tests to assure the
absence of spoilage flavors. You should be able to count on getting a
healthy, tasty olive oil, possessing the flavors of the olive fruit.
Unfortunately, only two states in the U.S. have just recently adopted
the international standards for this designation, and the term is widely
misused here for oils that may not even come from olives. That’s why
it is best, here in the United States, to buy EVO oil that is certified as
Extra Virgin, and certainly to avoid bargain-priced ‘Extra Virgins.’

How can you find a true Extra Virgin olive oil?


In the case of California olive oils, look for the seal of Extra Virgin
certification from the California Olive Oil Council (COOC) and check
the date of certification - even EVO oils eventually age beyond Extra
Virgin standards. The COOC follows International standards when
classifying California olive oils as Extra Virgin.

For foreign olive oils purchased in the U.S., it is more difficult.


(Foreign oils purchased overseas are subject to labeling requirements,
and thus are trustworthy.) Check the label for an indication of
authenticity, such as a Denomination of Protected Origin, which in
Italian is D.O.P, in Spanish is D.O., in French is A.O.C. Additionally,
check for a vintage date, and be suspicious of bargain prices. Finally -
and this applies to all uncertified EVO oils - take an educated guess,
and see what you get. You can find uncertified EVO oils that are quite
fine in flavor.

Olive oil is good for you, right?


Yes! - and there’s a difference between olive oils as well. Olive oil is
certainly healthier than trans-fats, hydrogenated fats or animal fats.
However, the full goodness of olive oil comes from the polyphenol
content, which depends largely on the oil’s quality. Olive oil is the
only vegetable oil that contains polyphenols, and true Extra Virgin
olive (EVO) oil is the only olive oil that contains significant quantities.
Generally, the polyphenol content of olive oils starts around 50
mg/kilogram and goes up to 250 mg/kilogram for Extra Virgin olive
oils. Apollo Olive Oil has made oils as much as 700 mg/kilogram
polyphenols, and we are committed to extracting as much of the
polyphenols as possible – that’s why we’ve invested in our state-of-
the-art vacuum mill!

What are polyphenols?


Polyphenols are a class of antioxidants found in a variety of foods –
red wine, green tea, chocolate, olive oil and more. Antioxidants are
now widely touted for their ability to combat aging and many health
conditions. Recent studies indicate that the oil-soluble polyphenols are
very potent – and the research is just beginning. It’s a very exciting
field right now – science is increasing our understanding of the
bioavailability of polyphenols and their effect on health, and milling
technology is breaking new ground for higher extraction.

Aren’t unfiltered olive oils better?


This idea seems to come from opinions about wine. The suspended
particles in unfiltered oils may at first give flavor that is missing in
filtered oils, but these very particles threaten the life of the oil with
spoilage. The sediment contains microbes that decompose the bits of
olive flesh and produce off-flavors called ‘fusty,’ ‘musty’ and ‘winey’
by olive oil experts. Even unfiltered oils certified as Extra Virgin in
their youth, may develop these off-flavors over time. Filtering removes
the risk of this type of spoilage, and is a standard practice for most
producers attentive to quality.

How long does olive oil keep?


Olive oil doesn’t improve with age like wine does. First, it must be
said that ordinary olive oil, being predominantly refined, is essentially
odorless and flavorless, and hardly changes – except eventually to go
rancid from exposure to air. If you wonder what rancidity really is, just
remember the particular smell and lingering taste of stale peanuts.

Extra Virgin olive oil on the other hand, is a natural raw product,
subject to variations year to year and to changes with time. Generally
speaking, a young EVO oil will be fresh and even perky with aromas
and flavors. As time goes by, the filtered EVO oils will mellow,
becoming softer and milder – but still quite pleasant. Unfiltered EVO
oils may develop off-smells and flavors at any time, largely depending
on storage conditions. Eventually, all oils will turn rancid.

Traditionally, due to the biannual bearing pattern of olive trees, olive


oil is made every other year when olives are abundant. On the off-
years, when the crop may be as small as 10% of the abundant years,
table olives are made. Therefore, the life-expectancy of olive oil is
generally taken to be two years. In truth, it depends on the quality of
the oil and how it has been stored – some EVO oils are capable of
extended life, beyond two years – but there is no point in buying old
oil, and no reason to age the oil you buy.

When looking for a good EVO oil, always check the vintage date. If
there’s no date, then there’s no way to know how old the oil really is.
Olives are harvested in the late fall and early winter, anytime between
October and the end of January in the Northern hemisphere. Blending
and bottling usually occur in the new year.

Should olive oil be kept in the refrigerator?


It isn’t recommended. Most EVO olive oils become cloudy and thick
under refrigeration. And, as with wine, we have found that extended
refrigeration can result in diminished aromas and muted flavors, even
after the oil is back to room temperature.

Why are Extra Virgin olive oils often so bitter?


Extra Virgin olive oils contain the flavors of the olive fruit. (Tasting a
raw olive is one of those experiences you would hope never to repeat.)
Bitterness, along with pungency and vegetal/fruit flavors are
considered positive attributes in EVO olive oils, particularly when they
are well balanced. Depending on many factors, such as the olive
variety and ripeness, milling technique, and the age of the oil, the
bitterness and pungency can be quite intense. Sometimes professional
tasters jokingly classify EVO oils as ‘one-cough, two-cough or three-
cough’ oils. Fortunately, these strong olive oils make wonderful
condiments. Once you get used to them, you’ll find them more and
more attractive.

What makes a good EVO oil better than an inexpensive, ordinary


olive oil?
A good olive oil has vitality; it is alive – like a good wine. It smells of
the fresh vegetal world. In your mouth, the flavors bloom and then
linger. Poor oils are an inert experience – no smell, little to no flavor,
and often a distinctly oily texture, compared to a good olive oil. If they
are old, there may be a slight but persistent rancid smell and flavor,
like old peanuts or old oil paints.

An easy way to understand for yourself, is to compare two or more


olive oils of different prices and qualities, side by side.

What determines the different flavors found in a good olive oil?


Many factors play a role in the flavor and composition of a good olive
oil. Flavors vary distinctly by variety and by the degree of ripeness at
the time of harvest. Unlike wine, olives can be harvested over a period
of several months during which they slowly ripen from green to multi-
colored to purple and finally to black. Each stage of ripening yields a
different quantity and flavor of oil. Different weather patterns and
variable production factors also have an effect. The miller’s blending
skills determine the final composition prior to bottling.

Aren’t Italian olive oils really the best?


Both excellent and fraudulent EVO oils come to us from Italy, so
generalization is dangerous. Tuscany is a center of olive oil excellence,
and Sicily, Liguria, Umbria and Campagnia also produce excellent
olive oils – not to mention the oils from smaller regions. On the other
hand, Italy exports five times more oil than could possibly be produced
within the country – and the U.S. demand for Extra Virgin olive oil
consumes a huge amount of that export. (The unstated factors are the
quantity of oil imported into Italy, its quality and even its authenticity.)

Olive trees grow around the globe in areas with a Mediterranean


climate, and excellent olive oils are possible wherever quality
production techniques are followed. Annual international competitions,
including the Los Angeles County Fair, have become quite interesting
in recent years, as the number of competing oils and participating
countries have both increased dramatically.

California is also experiencing a regrowth of its olive oil industry and


is producing many excellent EVO oils. The majority of award winning
California olive oils is coming from the eastern foothills of the
Sacramento Valley, where olive groves have long been established.

How do you choose the proper olive oil for a dish?


Pairing olive oil with food is a bit like pairing wine and food. It takes
experience and understanding of both. In general, delicate oils will
enrich and complement subtle flavors – fish, mushrooms, home made
mayonnaise, heirloom tomatoes, seafood pastas, and so on. The idea is
not to overpower the primary flavors. Robust and pungent oils will
answer the call of heartier cuisines: red meats and sausages, casseroles,
thick soups, garlic dishes, rich pastas. You can also experiment with
contrasting combinations to add interest (for instance, a fresh
mozzarella with a pungent oil, or a pecorino cheese with a soft one). A
good pair will bring flavors out.

Isn’t balsamic vinegar really the best companion for olive oil?
Balsamic vinegar has become quite popular in recent years here in the
U.S. If you think about it, you might become curious how supplies
have kept up with the U.S. demand – but that’s another story.

For your use, we recommend finding a balsamic vinegar equal in


quality to your olive oil and using it sparingly, with the same attention
to pairing that you give to other components of your meal. True
balsamic vinegar is held in high regard by Italians, used by the drop
and only on specific dishes, such as Bistecca alla Fiorentina and
Parmegiano-Reggiano salad.

To add a soft acidity when dressing salads with olive oil, experiment
with Meyers lemon juice, or with a mixture of an off-dry white wine
and your usual vinegar.

Why are your oils in dark bottles?


It is a question of quality – dark glass protects the contents from the
deteriorating effect of light. Just think of all the health products
available in brown bottles, expensive dark green wine bottles and the
demise of milk bottles in favor of opaque cartons. Even a few weeks of
light exposure will accelerate the aging of olive oil. The fact that so
many olive oils are in clear bottles is certainly a question of marketing.
It is also a good idea to store your oil in a (dark, cool) cabinet rather
than on the (bright, warm) counter top, to slow its aging.

Why don’t you produce flavored olive oils?


It’s not so easy to make a really nice EVO oil, and these oils are best
appreciated as they are. Flavored oils are usually made from lesser oils
because olive oil is quite susceptible to odors and flavors, and will
easily absorb a flavoring agent. The best use of a mediocre olive oil
may be as the base for a nice flavor. Of course, if the oil has been
heated in the process of flavoring, it may even lose quality.
 

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