HeadBlock Basics

a step by step guide from Stacey Broughton

Graduated Bob

Registered in England & Wales No. 6366273 Registered Office: 10 Overcliffe, Gravesend, Kent DA11 0EF,UK
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p1

Welcome to HeadBlock Basics

This area of learning has been designed as
an entry platform, an educators training
tool and for a true understanding of the
principles of cutting hair.

Headblocks are used globally as teaching

tools because of many factors including
convenience of time allowing for a natural
learning pace. 90% of students use head
blocks as their start point into our
profession or to try something new.

The graduated bob is a vital part of any

hairdressing training. This method starts
with a vertical section from crown to nape
which acts as a guide for the entire shape
and ensures the correct balance of
graduation throughout.

About Stacey —Stacey Broughton

Directional, inspirational work comes as
standard from Stacey who has further
liberated his skills at
In each of our HeadBlock step-by-step
myhairdressers.com, after many years guides you will also find accompanying
as Creative Director of the Vidal Sassoon Head Sheets in the Appendix at the back
Advanced Academy. of the guide.
As Education Director at
myhairdressers.com he is forging fresh
paths in his own creativity while sharing
his love of education on a global stage.

Find out more about Stacey on our

website.

Use this step-by-step guide as a supplement to our online HeadBlock Basics video...

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p2

Before
You will re-cut your previously cut one-
length bob on your head block making good
use of this resource.

Step 1
Begin by creating a horse shoe section
following the curve of the head and
incorporating the crown.

Notice the parting will be inside the top

section and will be placed at a later stage.

Step 2
Next work with the interior guideline from
crown to nape vertically to ensure balance
of the graduation.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p3

Step 3
The first guideline is cut to assess
movement and texture - leave it longer
than desired to accommodate hair type.
You can then visually assess and adjust the
balance of graduation to suit the hair
quality and bone structure.

Please notice how Stacey angles his fingers

inwards slightly to avoid creating a step.

Step 4
Please notice how Stacey checks his
graduation guide to ensure it remains below
the occipital bone. Going above the bone
will distort and flatten the shape.

Step 5
Now work with diagonal sections pivoting
from the occipital bone. Continue in this
manner until you reach the desired angle in
the side. Then continue with parallel
sections.

Notice the section mirrors the cutting angle.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p4

Step 6
Once you have established the desired
angle, repeat this process on the second
side for accuracy.

Step 7
Cross check your work technically and
visually to maintain balance.

Please note the perimeter will be refined

after the internal shape is achieved.

Step 8
Now revise Stacey’s method and try on
your own block being mindful of the
following points to watch:

Points to watch;
1) Ensure the fingers are angled evenly into
the nape to accommodate a flowing
graduation between top and bottom
lengths.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p5

Step 9
Points to watch;
2) Pivot your sections from the occipital
area until you reach your desired angle,
which is just below the ear.

Step 10
Points to watch;
3) At this point don’t worry about the
outline, as it will be refined at a later stage.

Step 11
Points to watch;
4) To ensure even balance on both sides,
work three sections on one side then move
to the other side.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p6

Step 12
Points to watch;
5) Check your balance technically and
visually.

Step 13
Next, work from the back into the side
areas maintaining the desired angle and
working through to the horseshoe section
Remember to maintain consistent finger
and body angles when working from the
guide in the nape over the ear into the jaw
line.

Stacey's angle is gradually moved forwards

with minimal over direction. He employs
slight elevation in the back area which
decreases as he reaches his front outline.

Step 14
To promote graduation, twist the hair a
fraction to allow your finger placement to
lay close to the skin. This technique also
accommodates the hairline perimeter
around the ear area and into the front.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p7

Step 15
Continue with this technique to the top of
the ear using parallel sections and the
previous sections as a guide.

Step 16
Repeat this process on the second side
staying mindful of your finger and body
angles. Working with small amounts of
sections alternating between sides provides
the base for good balance and flow of
graduation.

Step 17
Next, check your work using a strand from
the top of the completed sections on both
sides. Be aware of growth patterns in the
hair.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p8

Step 18
Now, work up to middle of the section
checking that you work parallel to the
cutting line with correct elevation and over-
direction. Stacey chooses to run these
sections into the front ensuring a fluid
balance from back to front.

Repeat this process on the second side

using the underneath as a guide and
maintaining accurate tension, elevation and
over-direction.

Step 19
Having completed the mid-sections, check
and refine your work.

Checking your work in key stages allows for

quick and continued adjustment.

Step 20
Continue this process through to the top of
the sections.

Please note the section slightly narrows

towards the front. Be mindful to maintain
the correct angle.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p9

Step 21
Repeat this process on the second side and
cross check your work in the opposite
direction diagonally.

Step 22
Now revise Stacey’s method and try on
your own block, being mindful of the
following points to watch:

Points to watch;
1) Ensure your sections run parallel to your
cutting angle.

Step 23
Points to watch;
2) Ensure your fingers are pointing in the
direction of the jaw, mirroring the section
to attain correct elevation.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p10

Step 24
Points to watch;
3) Avoid too much over-direction
backwards, instead follow the head shape
around towards the jaw line.

Step 25
Points to watch;
4) If doubtful about the amount of
elevation, leave it heavier and refine once
dry.

Step 26
Once dry, refine the outline perimeter using
a combination of free-hand techniques.
Ensure that the hair is laying in its natural
position and work with the side outline first.
This will enable you to attain the correct
balance over the ear, which then runs down
into the nape.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p11

Step 27
Work with a pointing technique to refine the
outline. Start in the centre-back and work
to the back of the ear connecting to the
guide.

Step 28
Bring down the top section to connect,
place the parting and, using diagonal
sections from the front, connect the top
into the underneath leaving out the crown,
which will later be blended visually.

Step 29
Proceed using a diagonal section from the
low side of the parting and work back to
just before the crown using the underneath
section as a guide. This allows you to
achieve correct weight and elevation. Leave
this section slightly longer to accommodate
hair type.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p12

Step 30
Cross check diagonally in the opposite
direction moving forwards to allow you to
refine the balance.

Step 31
Repeat this process on the heavier side of
the parting.

Please note, Stacey employs his twisting

technique again to ensure the correct
mirrored angle.

Step 32
Cross check diagonally to refine.
Please note, the sections run towards the
front hairline in the opposite direction.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p13

Step 33
Now revise Stacey’s method and try on
your own block being mindful of these
points to watch:

Points to watch;
1) Ensure correct parting placement.

Step 34
Points to watch;
2) When connecting, be mindful of the
correct elevation and finger angle.

Step 35
Points to watch;
3) Cross check in the opposite direction to
ensure correct balance.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p14

Step 36
Use free-hand techniques to remove excess
length in the crown area. Then, blow-dry
the hair and refine the crown.

Please note, when blow-drying it is

essential to work in a similar pattern to
your cutting methods and to start with the
underneath hair.

Step 37
Refine the internal graduation with the
disconnected area in the crown using a
pointing technique. Pointing is a technique
used to reduce subtle amounts of weight,
where the blades are closed in a downward
direction.

Step 38
Finally, elevate the hair and refine the
internal blend to achieve a looser result on
the technical shape.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 Step by Step—p15

Finish
This completes Stacey's process.

Head Sheet Diagrams

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 APPENDIX A

Head Sheet Diagram A

Top Section
A simple horseshoe section is all that is needed as a starting point
for this graduated bob
[
step 1]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 APPENDIX A

Head Sheet Diagram B

First Guideline
This is the interior guideline that will take you from crown to nape
ensuring an even balance of graduation
[
step 2]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 APPENDIX A

Head Sheet Diagram C

Nape Sectioning
In this section establish nape area balance on both sides
using the guide from the centre
[
step 7]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 APPENDIX A

Head Sheet Diagram D

Side Section
Next, work from the back into the side areas maintaining the desired angle and
working through to the horseshoe section
[
step 13]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 APPENDIX A

Head Sheet Diagram E

Side Section
Once dry, refine your outside perimeter by removing
unwanted graduation
[
step 26]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 APPENDIX A

Head Sheet Diagram F

Top Connection
Bring down the top section to connect, place the parting and use diagonal sections from
the front to connect the top to the underneath, leaving out the crown which will later
be blended in visually
[
step 28]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
Graduated Bob
HeadBlock Basics—July 2010 APPENDIX A

Head Sheet Diagram G

Side Section
The final shape

© My Hairdressers Ltd
My Hairdressers Limited
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Registered in England & Wales No. 6366273 Registered Office: 10 Overcliffe, Gravesend, Kent DA11 0EF,UK