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Table of Contents
step 1: Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
step 2: Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa)
You are not allowed to use Glue, Epoxy, Chaulk, Silicone... In short NO adhesives at all.
The boats may be decorated with paint and will also be judged on theme and appearance.
I had paint laying around so my total cash outlay was less then $50
Here is a link tot he Yahoo groups that I got the plan / desgn from along with some great advice. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/onesheetwonders/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 1: Materials
1) 1 4'X 8' sheet of 1/4 inch B/C grade plywood
2) 2 8" 2x4's (As few knots and a straight as possible, Yeah, Yeah I know) If you are not entering a contest like I was you might want to get a knot free 1x4 for the chine
logs.
3) 1 Roll of Duct tape. (Once again if you are not entering a contest like I did get yourself some waterproof adhesive, chaulk and maybe some fiberglass tape and resin
for the seams.)
4) 1 Lbs of fasteners, I used about 1/2 lb of 1"x6 coarse thread drywall screws. I f you can get 3/4 inch that will be great for the Chines and Gunwales and Iwales
(Pronouned gunnel and innel).
5) You will also need a scrap piece of wood 32" x12" that you will use for a removable form
step 2: Tools
Here is a list of the tools I used:
1) Jig Saw/ portable scroll saw
2 ) Battery powered drill
3) Belt Sander
4) Circular saw
5) Hand plane
6) Adjustable artist triangle
7) Drill and countersink set including #6 Drill and Phillips head bit.
8) Squares ( I used a Try Square, and a Framing square. but you can use a straight edge instead of the framing square)
9) Tape measure
10) Clamps- as many as you can get your hands on, there is no such thing as to many clamps.
11) Disc Finish Sander
12) Back saw
Not pictured:
8'+ Straight edge
Protractor
Band saw
Table saw
Image Notes
1. 1 portable jig saw
2. 2) Electric Drill
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
3. 3) Belt Sander
4. Circular saw
5. 5) Hand Plane
6. 6) Adjustable triangle
7. 7) Drill countersink set
8. 8) Combination square
9. 9) Tape measure
10. 10) Parallel Clamp
11. 11) Disc Sander
12. 12) Hand saw
Set your Circular saw so that it just cuts through your ply and does not cut into your work surface.
Run it down both lines so that you have two strips 12 inches wide and 1 piece that is about 23 1/2 inches wide (You wil need to measure yours for the next step).
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 5: Temporary Frame: Constructing
The purpose of the frame is to hold the sides in place so that you can add the Stem and Stern pieces, Chine logs, and finally the Bottom (You can also leave it in place to
install the Gunwales and Thwarts as I did).
The first step is the measurement of the bottom width as I mentioned in the previous step. this is obviously the maximum width you can have. I subtracted about an extra
inch to account for the (2) 1/4 inch thick sides and I wanted about a 1/4 inch over hang on both sides for margin of error.
The plan I used called for the maximun width at the top to be 32 inches, but I felt that would torture the plywood just a little to much for my taste so I reduced that by a
little over an inch (Use your own judgement here).
My final dimensions ended up with the top at 30 3/4 inch, base at 22 1/2 and the height of 12 inches. There are two ways to determine the angle to cut this to on the table
saw. You can either use the adjustable triangle or set it on top of the saw and line it up with the miter slot. Loosen the miter guage and slide it up to the frame and lock the
angle into place. (You will want to save one of the triangles you cut to set the blade tilt for your chine logs.)
Next you want to notch all four corners. the ones at the Bottom are going to be 1" tall and 2" wide. This gives you clearance for the chine logs. The top ones are going to
be about 1/2 inch wide and about 2" tall for installing the gunwales ( I didn't cut out the gunwales notches and had to remove my frame cut them out and reinstall the
frame, save this step and cut them out ahead of time).
I cut mine out with a band saw but you could use a hand saw or jig saw.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 6: Temporary frame: installation
Place your frame on a work surface so that it is vertical with the bottom facing up.Grab either side. You want the Factory edge to be flush with the bottom.
Drill two holes right on the line you drew in step 4. Make sure that the holes do not go through where you are going to install the chines and gunwales. Center the line on
the frame and use your electric drill to screw into place.
Repeat on the other side.
At this point to need to take a measurement for the tapers on the stem and stern post.
Bring the sides together at either end (The measurement is close enough that you only need to do one end.
If you have a helper have them hold both pieces together. Set a piece of scrap wood on your boat as in the picture. Reach underneath and trace the angle.
I didn't have a helper so I opend up a parallel clampand bent the sides to stay in the jaws, with out putting preasure on them (see the finalk picture below).
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 7: Construct the stem and stern post
Make sure that you use a push stick for this operation.
Take on of the 2x4's and cut off a piece approximately 14 inches long.
Rip this down the center so that you have 2 pieces 1 1/2 inches square by about 14 inches long.
Set you table saw to a 45 degree angle and rip both pieces. I intentially did not have the angle come to a point (The purpose of the 45 degrees is that it gives you a
square. edge to keep on the table top and rip fence)
Next I used a protractor to measure angle you created on the scrap piece from the previous step. Mine was about 40 degrees so I settled on a dimension of 20 degrees
as a nice round number.
Now you need to set your saw angle To give myself the widest base to saw with I set in on the 45 degree angle and used the adjustable triangle a seen below.
You will notice that once again I didn't want the angle to come to a perfect point. I tried to leave about 3/16ths per side as you can see in the last picture below.
Repeat this step at the other end so that it looks like the final picture below.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 9: Chine logs
Make sure you are using a push stick for this operation.
Find the 2x4 with the least knots and rip off a piece 8 ft long by about 3/4 in thick. Find the center of piece from both edges and mark a cross on it. Laying the 1 1/2 wide
part on the table use the scrap triangle from step 5 and run an angled line through the center of the cross.
Set the blade angle witht he same triangle.
Place the 3/4 edge up against he saw fence and eye it up so that you will be cutting right through the line you just made. You want this to be a centered as possible to
that both pieces are identical.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 10: Installing the Chine logs
Take the chine logs you made in the last step.
Use your adjustable triangle to measure the angle between the the stempost and the interior side. Mark this and cut the angle with either the hand saw or the band saw.
You are going to install these with the widest part down. Clamp this piece at one end SLOWLY and CAREFULLY work your way around, installing clamps every couple
of inches. if you hear cracking, that is a bod thing and you are goiong to fast.
Some people wet these down before hand or even steam them, but if you are working with very small knots and are very careful you should not need to. The second
pictures shows my clamps installed with the first chine. When you get near the end you will need to cut it to final length. Mark it with a pencil eyeing up the angle and use
the hand saw to cut it to size. (If you are using Adhesive apply it to each side prior to installation)
Be careful one of my chines had a large knot and now let's just say I have a spare chine laying around for a future boat.
Some one suggested that I install the screws every two inches. This seemed like over kill to me since I knew that I was going to be installing a Gunwale on the outside.
I pre-drilled and counter sunk each screw as I went along about every 4 inches or so and installed them as I went along as well. It is a good idea to remove the clamps
while you are working to see if you need additional screws.
When you are done you will see that the chine logs stick up above the sides at the ends and should be level at the frame (See picture below)
Use a handplane or sander to make these level. use the straight edge and do both sides at the same time.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 12: Install and sand the bottom to fit
(At this point if you are using adhesive apply it carfully to the Chine logs and edges of the sides)
Start at your origin hole and reinstall the placement screws trying to make sure that you get them back into the original holes so that everything lines up.
Moving around the boat install screws every 3 inches or so. Once this is done you can either use the hand plane or belt sander to make the bottom and sides flush See
the second photo below
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 13: Gunwales and inwales
The Gunwales serve the strengthen the sides at the the Top and Bottom, and an Inwale on the top on the inside.
To make sure that I was not going to hit any of the screws holding the Chine logs in place at each chine screw location I made a tick mark on the bottom with a pencil
(You can see this in the first picture).
I cut each (6) of the Guwales and Inwales from the rest of the 8 ft 2x4. Each one should be just over 1/4 inch in thickness and 1 1/2 inch wide.
Mark the center (4 foot) of each Gunwale and Inwale.
(If you are using Adhesive apply it to each Gunnel prior to installation)
With the boat inverted (Bottom up) begin working from the center out drilling and screwing as you go. By the time you get to the end you should have about 2-3 inches
hanging over, cut this off flush to end with your hand saw.
Go back to the center and work to the other end and repeat on the other side.
Next come the top Gunwales and Inwales.
Flip the boat over so that the top is up again. You will need to trim the Inwales the same way you trimmed the Chine Logs in step #9 if they are a little short (As mine are)
it doesn't really matter.
(If you are using Adhesive apply it to each Gunwale and Inwale prior to installation)
Once this trimming is done clamp the Gunwales and Inwales together at the center. I moved the clamps as I moved toward each end. My screws were to long, so as you
can see in the second picture I put them in at an angle. If you are able to buy the 3/4 inch ones and you cut your Gunwales and Inwales over 1/4 inch thick you should not
have the problem, The alternative is to drive them straight in and grind them off after they are all done.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 15: Installing the Thwarts
At this point you want to put a clamp at each of the tick marks you made for the thwarts. make sure they extend about 3/4 of an inch below the Inwales as shown in the
first picture. You may have to twist the thwarts a bit to get them installed so be careful.
(If you are using Adhesive apply it to each end prior to installation)
Once they are in place go to the outside of the boat and drill 3 holes about 5/16ths of an inch from the Gunwale, drill and countersink. I installed two screws and them
removed the clamp to install the third.
At this point you can remove the temporary frame.
You can see the installed Thwarts in the third picture adn also several strips that I installed to cover up the holes made from the Frame installation
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 16: Painting
Now is the time to let your imagination run wild you need to come up with a great name and a paint job to match it. I coated all the seams with several coats of latex paint
to fill in gaps and seal up any areas that might have leaks.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
step 17: Test her out
Took her to the quarry this morning and she works like a dream. No leaking at all. I do have to repaint the bottom because i didn't prep the previous coat enough. The
Kayak Paddle works great and she tracks pretty well for such a small boat.
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Comments
48 comments Add Comment
A keel strip about an inch thick by 3 inches wide, would help a lot with tracking. It would also help with the strength of the bottom.
I might adapt your design to an outrigger sail boat for my kids to play with. I will however use caulking and a little stronger gunal bands. I don't have to follow
your race rules. :-)
No need for the metric sizes any more, i can convert them for myself
Mfg Lars
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
the_greg says: Aug 18, 2010. 2:08 AM REPLY
Nice job - both boat and instructable. Did you use exterior / treated ply ?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
rowerwet says: Aug 15, 2010. 6:40 AM REPLY
also a mouse is about the most stable boat you can get from one sheet, my first two were for my kids.
Realistically you can expect to carry about half of that - say 230 Kg or a good sized adult. and child.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/
lennyb says: Aug 12, 2010. 6:11 AM REPLY
very well done
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-One-sheet-boat/