FABRIC PRODUCTION AND

CONSTRUCTION FOR DRESS

MATERIALS

By
J.N.Vohra
B.Text., M.Tech, F.I.E., C.Eng (I), M.I.M.A
Natural Fibers used for making Yarns
and Fabrics
Plant Fibres Animal Fibres Mineral
Fibres

Seed-Fibres: Sheep: wool Asbestos

Cotton, Goat: Mohair, Carbon
Cashmere, and
Leaf Fibres: Pashmina
Pineapple and Rabbit: Angora
Banana Camel: Alpaca,
Llama,
Bast Fibres: Jute, Silkworm: Silk
Flax, Ramie, and
Hemp
Man-Made Fibers used for making Yarns
and Fabrics
Cellulosic Non-Cellulosic
(Regenerated) (Synthetic)

Cellulosic: Polymeric:
Viscose Polyamide (nylon),
Cuprammonium Polyester,
Polynosic (Modal), Polyacronitrile
Lyocell (acrylic),
Polypropylene,
Easter Cellulosic: Elastromeric
Acetate, Tri-acetate (spandex)
Category of Cellulosic Fibers

• Rayon fibers
• First man made fiber
• Composed of regenerated cellulose (wood pulp)
• Lyocell fibers
• Trade name ‘Tencel’
Category of Synthetic Fibers

• Nylon (fiber or filament)

• Polyester (fiber or filament)
• Acrylic (fiber or filament)
• Spandex (filament)
• Polypropylene (filament)
• Micro-fibres (filament)
• Nano Fibres
 Fabric Types

Woven Knitted Non Woven

 Fabrics Manufactured On

Looms Knitting Machines Non Woven M/C

 Types of Looms for Weaving fabrics

 Handlooms
 Power Looms
 Automatic Looms (with auto changeover of Bobbins)
 Drop-Box Looms (For making strips)
 Dobby Looms (For weaving small structure designs)
 Jacquard Looms (For weaving large structure designs)
 Shuttle-less Looms
 Looms

Hand Looms Power Looms Shuttle Less

 Types of Knitting Machines for knitting fabrics

 Flat Knitting Machines

 Circular Knitting Machines
 Computerised Knitting Machines
 Warp Knitting Machines
 Knitting Machines

Flat Knitting Circular Knitting Computerized

 Value Additions on Fabrics

 Dyeing
 Finishing
 Specially Finished Fabrics
 Structured Fabrics
 Printed Fabrics
 Embroidered Fabrics
 Special Finishes on Fabrics

 Hand Modification Finish

 Anti-Pilling Finish
 Wrinkle-Free Finish
 Shrink-Resist Finish
 Water Repellent Finish
 Anti-Stain Finish
 Soil Release Finish
 Flame Retardant Finish
 Anti-Microbial Finish
Basic Fabric Structures
Graphical Representation of Weaving Structures

Plain Weave Twill Weave Satin Weave

Printed Fabrics
 Different Types of Prints

 Made with Direct Printing

 Made with Discharge Printing
 Made with Resist Printing

 Overprint
 Blotch Print
 Duplex Print
 Burnt Out Print
 Plisse Print
 Direct Printed Fabrics

Block Printing Block Printed Fabric

Discharge Printed fabrics
 Resist Printed Fabrics

Batik Print Tie & Dye Print

 Other Printed Fabrics

Burnt Out Print Plisse Print

Embroidered Fabrics
 Types of Indian Embroideries

 Zardozi embroidery
 Mirror embroidery
 Kantha Embroidery
 Chikankari Embroidery
 Phulkari Work
 Aari Work
 Sequin Work
 Embroidered Fabrics

Zardosi Mirror Chikenkari

 Embroidered Fabrics

Phulkari Aari Work Sequin

An Illustration of Embroideries on Garments
 Fabric Drape

 Drape is one of
the important
factors
influencing the
aesthetics and
functionality of
fabrics.
 Commonly used Fabric Weights

 Ladies Wear 70 to 150 Gsm

 A Typical shirt weight varies from 70 to 150 Gsm
 Commonly most tee shirts have a weight between
140-220 Gsm.
 Bottom Wear 220 to 450Gsm
 Conversion formulas:

 There is an easy way to convert gsm to oz/yd2, divide

the gsm by 33.906.
 To determine gsm from oz/yd2 you do the reverse –
multiple by 33.906.
 Conversion Formula

 Formulas are based upon:

 1 oz = 28.3495231 grams
 1 yard = 0.9144 meters

 1 yard squared = (.9144 m x .9144 m) =.83612736

meters squared
THANK YOU