Overview of the energy code requirements for homes:

A checklist for Professional Home Inspectors

This checklist can be used to assess new or existing homes for sale for clients
interested in buying a high quality home. New homes are more likely than older
homes to meet at least some requirements of the energy code. For existing
homes, this checklist provides criteria for assessing energy performance in lieu of
utility data. Home inspectors can use this information in combination with their
professional judgment and familiarity with local homes to offer advice regarding

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expected energy use.

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The list below includes information on the current energy code. When builders

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meet or exceed code requirements and pay attention to these important details,

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it’s a good indication of the quality of construction and an indicator of whether

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the home will be an energy hog.

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This checklist doesn’t cover every aspect of the code, but it addresses the
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requirements that are easiest to understand and see in a home after construction
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is complete. With the info below, you can help determine whether a home likely
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meets the energy conservation code.

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Energy Efficient Lighting. Lighting has an enormous impact on the energy use in homes.
The current energy conservation code requires that builders put high efficiency light bulbs (such as
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compact fluorescents) in at least 50 percent of the permanent lighting fixtures. Determine whether
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compact fluorescents have been installed in permanent fixtures.

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Programmable Thermostat. According to the current code, homes with forced-air furnaces
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must have programmable thermostats installed. Regardless of the heating and cooling system in a
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home, programmable thermostats can save money. The average cost of a programmable
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thermostat ranges from $30 to $50. (Note: programmable thermostats can generate annual energy
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savings of 10%.)

Does the home have a programmable thermostat?

Windows – New or Remodeled Homes.

Energy code requirements for windows, like many other parts of a house, vary from one region of
the country to another. Requirements for windows include a U-factor and (sometimes) a solar heat
gain coefficient. A U-factor is a rating given to a window based on how much heat loss it allows. U-
factors generally range from 0.2 (very little heat loss) to 1.2 (high heat loss). Single-pane windows
are about 1.0, double-paned windows about 0.5 and high-performance double-paned windows are
about 0.3. Skylights and windows must meet separate U-factors. The solar heat gain coefficient
measures how well a window blocks heat from the sun. This is especially important in warm regions.
Visit http://www.efficientwindows.org/code_overview.cfm to determine the U-factor and solar heat
gain coefficient for your area.

o Ask for documentation on the U-factor and solar heat gain coefficient for windows and
skylights. If the home is new construction, locate copies of window labels or invoices to

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confirm requirements are met.

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Windows – Existing Homes, not Remodeled.

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There are a number of factors that should be considered in evaluating older windows. Energy

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performance varies significantly based on the material that windows are made from and the
condition they are in.

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- Can you see daylight around the sides of the window frame or sash?
- Are windows loose in their tracks; can you slip a piece of paper between the sash and frame
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- What are the windows made of? Aluminum is typically known as a poor insulator. Fiberglass,
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wood, and vinyl do a better job, but much depends on the construction of the windows.
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- Are windows single, double, or triple-paned? Note: storm windows installed over single-paned
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windows can perform about as well as conventional double-paned windows but do not match
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the performance of high-performance windows with low-E glass and gas fills.
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- The ability of double or triple panes to block heat transfer depends greatly on whether they are
“low-E coated” or not. Low-E coatings are invisible but can be detected by specialists.
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Certificate requirement. Since 2006, in homes that comply with the model energy code,
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builders have been required to attach a permanent certificate on or in the electrical distribution
panel listing the materials, equipment values, and ratings to demonstrate that the home meets
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energy conservation code requirements.

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The certificate is an important means of verifying for the consumer that the home meets model
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energy code requirements. The certificate should be installed so that it doesn’t obstruct visibility of
the circuit directory label, service disconnect label or other required labels.

Access hatches/doors for attics. These can be a major source of air leakage in homes,
causing utility bills to be high and creating uncomfortable drafts. Hatches/doors to the attic should
be weather-stripped and insulated. They should be well-made so that they are airtight. The
 insulation should be attached so that it isn’t damaged or become loose when the hatch or door is
used.

Crawl space insulation. Either the floor over a crawl space should be insulated or the crawl
space walls should be insulated. Insulation should be attached securely without gaps. Likewise, it is
also important that batt insulation not be compressed. Compressing the batts reduces the insulation
value significantly, almost eliminating it.

Look for sources of air leakage into and out of the home. All joints, seams and
penetrations between the inside and outside of the home should be sealed. Typically, caulk, gaskets,
spray foam or weatherstripping is used to seal these air leaks. (Note: Air leakage is responsible for
1/3 or greater of total energy loss.)

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Check to see whether leaks have been sealed where phone lines, electrical lines, plumbing

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and other services enter the house.

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Check penetrations in the attic floor where pipes and ducts lead to the rooms below to

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determine whether they’ve been sealed with foam, caulk, or other materials.

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Check cabinets beneath the kitchen sink, kitchen island, bathroom sinks, etc., and see where

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pipes lead to the floor below or out through walls. Are the spaces around the pipes filled

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with caulk, foam or other materials to prevent airflow?

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In the basement, check exterior walls with penetrations for pipes and wires. Also check

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where pipes and ducts penetrate the basement ceiling to the floor above. Are they sealed
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Check recessed lights – especially those located directly below an unfinished attic. Trim
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should be sealed to the ceiling with caulk.

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For more information on the stack effect (we will probably choose only one):
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http://www.pacificnorthwestinspections.com/index.php/resource-library/online-resources/914-
hvac/275-stackeffect
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http://triadhomes.news-
record.com/content/2009/09/04/article/improve_indoor_air_quality_by_reducing_stack_effect
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Was a blower door test done? The most effective and objective way to evaluate air leakage
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in a home is to have a “blower door” test done. The cost of a blower door test ranges from $250.00-
350.00. NOTE: The national model code requires new or substantially remodeled homes to be tested
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with blower doors, unless the air sealing in the home was inspected by a qualified professional
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(usually the local building inspector). Ask whether a blower door test was done and request a copy
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of the test results. For homes that comply with code, tested air leakage must be less than “seven air
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changes per hour (ACH) when measured with a blower door at a pressure of 33.5psf (50Pa)”. To
standardize the test for different homes and different parts of the country, the equipment used for
the test is set at a standardized pressure level (33.5psf or 50Pa). Very efficient homes may have
leakage rates of only .6-2.5 with a pressure of 50Pa. For more information on blower door testing
visit: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/blower-door-basics

Fireplaces: Generally speaking, fireplaces often reduce the energy efficiency of a home. The
national model code requires that the doors of wood-burning fireplaces have gaskets.
 http://www.woodheat.org/maintenance/maintenance.htm

Ductwork should be insulated and sealed. Unless the attic ceiling and walls are
insulated, when ducts run through attic space, current codes require that they be insulated to a
minimum of R-8.

Are the ducts in the attic insulated to R-8? If so, look at the label on the ductwork insulation
– what R-level is it?

Is ductwork sealed properly? All ducts and air handlers should also be sealed with duct

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mastic. NOTE: Duct tape is not appropriate for sealing ductwork, it deteriorates too quickly.

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The current model energy code requires that the entire duct system be tested for air

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tightness if any part of the ductwork is located in the crawlspace, attic, or garage. Leaky
ducts are a major source of energy loss, so this requirement is extremely valuable to

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homeowners in making homeownership affordable, month after month. If there is ductwork

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in the crawlspace, attic, or garage it’s extremely important that it be tested for leakage in

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new homes. In existing homes, leakage should be assumed and mastic should be applied

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along every seam and connection.
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