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step 7: Finishing up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa)
That's why I though I build one and make an instructable of it. I tried to make this instructable so easy, that everyone with or without any experience can make one!
If you make one, don't forget to share your end result photos and movies with us.
Below you'll see the end result of my Music LED Light Box.
The movie is shot with my Canon Digital Camera, in the dark. My camera can't handle the fast switching between light and dark very well. In reality the effect is even
nicer then on the video.
Before people go asking who's music or what songs these are in this video, these beats are made by my brother. :)
You can visit his YouTube channel for more information and songs.
Materials
- 12v Adapter (a battery can be used as well)
- 3.5 jack headphone cable.
- tip31 transistor (this is the key to the wh ole project) - $0.50
- 5mm LED's (the color or amount is totally up to you, 1 LED per 3v. I used 12v, so 4 LEDs) - $0.28
- A4 acrylic sheet - 3mm thick (also known as 'plexiglass') - $2.00
- Fine sandpaper (I used 400) - $1.00
- Electrical Wire
If you see a price above, that means I bought it. The rest I just ripped of some old junk. The 12v Adapter was from an old wireless headphone and the 3.5 jack plug is
from another old headphone.
Tools
- Jigsaw (also a Jeweler Saw can be used. But that's really hard to get straight lines)
- Glue Gun (hot glue, other glue to glue acrylic is possible)
- Drilling tool
- Solder tool (optional)
- Pen
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
Ones you've got this stuff you're ready to begin!
Image Notes
1. 12v Adapter. Be sure to read step 5 to find out more about this or any other adapter!
2. Ripped this from the switch as well. It's the part where the adapter goes in to and a toggle switch. Eventually I didn't use the toggle switch.
3. 5mm LED's - Blue - Water Clear
4. TIP31 transistor. To be precise, this is a TIP31c transistor. But from what I've read on the internet, a TIP31a and TIP31b can be used as well.
5. 3.5 Jack plug. Who doesn't have old headphones lying around :)
6. Sandpaper - 400
7. A4 Acrylic sheet 3mm - Also known as 'Plexiglass'.
1. Draw out the plates for the box on the acrylic sheet (photo 1). My longer plates are 15cm x 5cm. And the squares are 5cm x 5cm . Of course you can use any size for
a box you want.
2. Use the jig saw to cut the plates from the acrylic sheet. Be sure to do this as perfect as you can. Because all plates need to line up nice with each other (photo 2).
If the plates don't turn out to be equal, you can sand the sides till they all fit nice.
3. Get the drilling tool and use a drill bit that is the same size as the thickness of the headphones cord (photo 3). Then drill another hole for the adapter to go though.
When you're drilling, do this very carefully! You don't want to hurry, else you might put too much pressure on it and break the plate.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
Image Notes
1. Hole for the audio cable.
2. Hole for the adapter.
I only could get my hands on water clear acrylic sheets and water clear LED's. For all those who have the same, continue with this step.
If you already have frosted acrylic (opal acrylic) and diffused LED's, then you can continue with step 4.
1. G et the fine sandpaper (400) and place it on a table, with the sanding side up. Get a plate and rub it over the sandpaper in a circular motion. If one side is frosted
enough, turn the plate over and do the same with that side.
Now you'll have a nice frosted looking effect we need (photo 1 and 2 to see the difference).
2. Do the same with the LED's. Sand the LED's until they get the nice diffused look (Photo 3,4 and 5).
Photo 5 shows you 1 diffused and 1 water clear LED hooked on a 3v button cell.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
Image Notes
1. LED after sanding: Diffused LED
2. Water Clear LED's.
Image Notes
1. The left LED is diffused and the right LED is still the original water clear LED.
Before you go and glue parts together, make sure first they fit nicely onto each other. We need all parts to fit nicely.
1. After fitting the plates get the glue gun and glue the first 3 plates together . If you have some trouble holding the plates together before gluing, you can use some
tape to hold them together. This way you can put the glue on more relaxed .
After gluing the 3 plates you should have something like photo 2
2. After the glue is dried, it's time to glue in the side plates. First place them and see if they fit nicely.
If not sand the sides a bit so everything fits nice together. Then glue them on their place.
The last (bottom) plate will not be attached yet. We need to put the whole circuit on the bottom plate later and then put it in place.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
step 5: Preparing the circuit
Since I have no experience in electronics whatsoever, this was the toughest part for me to find out.
Other instructables had no good explaining on this subject.
So for everyone who's new to this electronics stuff and have no idea what they're doing, here is some explaining for the circuit.
You can also put LED's parallel in the circuit. But I'm not getting into this, just so that this instructable stays simple and easy to understand for everyone. Let's just focus
now on the LED's in series.
If you want to experience with more LED's, you can always calculate your LED's and resistors here.
Since I'm going to make the LED's in series I can use 6 LED's in my circuit.
Now with this information you can go to the next step, building the circuit.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
Image Notes
1. Ground
2. Ground
3. Left
4. Right
5. Right
6. Left
1. Make sure you have all the materials to make the circuit. And enough electrical wires to connect all the components.
2. Before we build the circuit, we first need to put the audio cable through the whole in the back.
3. Build your circuit, and test it out. The best way to test it is through your audio output from your computer. Make sure the audio on your computer is set to 100% and
then test it.
Circuit : The positive pole from the adapter goes to the positive leg of the first LED. Next the other 5 LED's follow. Hook the negative leg from the first LED to the
positive leg of the second LED. Hook the negative leg from the second LED to the positive leg of the third LED, and so on. The negative LED from the last LED goes to
the center pin of the TIP31.
Then hook the right pin of the TIP31 to the negative pole of the adapter.
All there's left now is to hook up the audio cable. Hook the red or the white wire from the audio cable on the left pin of the TIP31. And connect the ground wire from the
audio cable to the right pin of the TIP31.
4. If your circuit works, solder all components together so the circuit stays together nice and strong and wont fall apart.
If you have trouble getting the circuit to work, you can try to set it up first on a circuit board.
Carlosserious was so kind to make a how-to video on making the circuit, click here for the video .
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
Image Notes
1. I've attached the white wire (right channel) to the TIP31. Since I won't use the
red wire, I cut it of.
2. Please don't get cunfused, this is the backside of the TIP31!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
step 7: Finishing up
We've now got all the parts we need. All we need to do now is put the bottom part into the cube to make it a whole cube.
1. Use the glue gun again to put the connector for the adapter right behind the hole. Tip: Plug the cable in before gluing. This way the connector will always be on the
right spot.
2. Sand the sides of the bottom plate so it fits snugly into the bottom. You just want the bottom plate slightly bigger then the hole it fits in. This way, once you put it in
there, it will get stuck and won't let go while moving the cube. We won't glue the bottom, in case we need to open it for some reason. So make sure the bottom fits in tight.
That's it!!
Now plug everything in and put your music on max and enjoy!
You can change this project as much as you like. Use any LED's you want, create the box that fits the best on your desk, etc. You can also build the cube from my
previous instructable .
I used photoshop to show you how different colors would look like (photo 7 ).
I tried to make this instructable the way so everyone can understand it. I'll try to answer them all. If you want to make one and get stuck, we'll try to get through it together.
If you have any questions please don't be shy and let me know.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
Image Notes
1. You can make a knot here so when accidentally pull the cable, nothing will
break off inside.
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 254 comments
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
Zombiecanc3r says: Mar 6, 2010. 2:31 PM REPLY
Idk if it's too much to ask, but could you please post a cirtuit diagram of what you made. I'm trying to figure out how to implement a transistor in a different
project, but since i'm a massive electronics noob, i've no idea how to do it. I might be able to figure it out from your diagram however, so if you don't mind, i'd
greatly appreciate it.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
xDGx says: Mar 4, 2010. 11:31 AM REPLY
You mean I need a 4.7k resistor on the middle pin of the TIP 41 to the LEDs ?
Could someone draw the layout ... how it would be on a bread board.
Who ever does it will receive 10p through paypal for their time :D .... seriously ... if you want ill drop you 10p
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
smithlee says: Mar 4, 2010. 6:40 PM REPLY
maybe your audio outlet have DC LEVEL ,so you can add capacitance (about 10,000p) between transistor B point & signal input (audio outlet).
and you can use one resistor (about 4.7k) pull HI (between transistor B pin & +v .) or pull LOW (between transistor B pin & -v .)
try these way you can get you want
I am using an assembly of 8 AA's for 12V instead of an outlet. Something weird about my circuit is that when I tested to see if the transistor was at fault, I
connected the circuit directly to the battery assembly and they lit up momentarily before being fried. Maybe my LEDs are lower voltage? I don't see why; they
are standard LEDs I got in an assorted bag from Radioshack.
But that's not even the main problem. The lights do not even get to burn out when I have the transistor in the circuit. I know I wired it properly. I tried two
different ones of the same model number. Got them at the Shack too. The package simply says "TIP31" and does not specify a letter after, but on the
transistor itself is printed "TIP31AG." Maybe that is why it doesn't work?
http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=TIP31
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
neonix says: Mar 4, 2010. 12:23 AM REPLY
It's funny I have two packs of resistors just sitting on my desk and one of them happens to be 47k. I tried it with my two AA battery, one LED
assembly, but it didn't change anything.
series 8-battery you can get DC 12V,use DC12V can help you easy to work but careful you must series 4~8 LED(you can series 8-led ,if it not
work or dark then to decrease LED .it is safe way)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/