HeadBlock Basics

a step by step guide from Stacey Broughton

A-Line Long Layered Shape

Registered in England & Wales No. 6366273 Registered Office: 10 Overcliffe, Gravesend, Kent DA11 0EF,UK
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010
About Stacey
Directional, inspirational work comes as
standard from Stacey who has further
liberated his skills at
myhairdressers.com, after many years
as Creative Director of the Vidal Sassoon
Advanced Academy.
Find out more about Stacey on our
website.
Use this step-by-step guide as a supplement to our online HeadBlock Basics video...
Step by Step—p1
Welcome to HeadBlock Basics
This area of learning has been designed as
an entry platform, an educators training
tool and for a true understanding of the
principles of cutting hair.
Headblocks are used globally as teaching
tools because of many factors including
convenience of time allowing for a natural
learning pace. 90% of students use head
blocks as their start point into our
profession or to try something new.
This is a simple A-Line long-layered shape
on a headblock, starting with the interior
shape first and working vertically from front
hairline to nape area.
Watch my positioning of body, fingers and
hair sections with regard to direction and
over-direction to create this soft, fluid and
light shape. Understanding this will lead to
a greater understanding of layering.
—Stacey Broughton
 In each of our HeadBlock step-by-step
guides you will also find accompanying
Head Sheets in the Appendix at the back
of the guide.
© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p2

Before
You will re-cut your previously cut one-
length bob on your head block making good
use of this resource.

Step 1
Sectioning pattern

Separate the hair into four quarters from

the crown. Take one section from the top of
the ear across the crown and another from
the centre front to the centre nape.

Step 2
Take a fine section along one side of the
central dissecting line all the way through
to the nape from the front. Then re-pin the
sections.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p3

Step 3
Elevate the hair and cut a line slightly
angled towards the crown in the front. As
you proceed over the crown, the angle of
your fingers should be more in alignment
with the head shape. As you work into the
nape your fingers are angled away from the
nape.

Step 4
Continue with parallel sections on the right-
hand side for three to four sections
depending on hair type.

Note: after each section is defined you

should re-pin the hair for ease.

Step 5
Repeat this process on the left-hand side.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p4

Step 6
Cross-check your work in the opposite
direction using the same angles.

Step 7
You should now have two small sections on
either side of the head. Connect the initial
side into the interior shape using over-
direction and the previous section as a
guide.

Step 8
Repeat this process on the second side.

Points to watch:
1. Ensure over-direction to the previous
guide.
2. Ensure correct and consistent finger
angles.
3. Ensure over-direction in the hairline area
to retain length.
4. Split the sections into manageable
pieces.
5. When cross-checking ensure that you
work to your original angle.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p5

Step 9
You will now proceed to cut the outline
shape.

Step 10
Continue with parallel sections up to the
parting. As you progress up to the round of
the head, elevate the sections to facilitate a
bevel on the outline.

Note: as Stacey proceeds he eventually

runs put of hair due to his previous layering
process.

Step 11
Next refine the corner over the outline. This
will achieve a light internal shape with a
bevelled weighty outline

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p6

Step 12
Blow dry the hair.

Step 13
Once dry, check the internal shape paying
attention to the internal fringe area. Be
mindful of establishing the same bevel
throughout the shape.

Step 14
Points to watch:

1. Ensure sections are even and mirror the

cutting outline shape.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p7

Step 15
2. Assess correct amount of elevation to
accommodate the desired bevel.

Step 16
3. Take care to be precise and measured
when refining the corner.

Finish
Next, check your work using a strand from
the top of the completed sections on both
sides. Be aware of growth patterns in the
hair.

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p8

Head Sheet Diagram A

Sectioning
Separate the hair into four quarters from the crown. Take one
section from the top of the ear across the crown and another from
the centre front to the centre nape.
[step 1]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p9

Head Sheet Diagram B

Internal Layering
Take a fine section along one side of the central dissecting line all
the way through to the nape from the front.
Then re-pin the sections.
[step 2]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p10

Head Sheet Diagram C

Internal Layering
Elevate the hair and cut a line slightly angled towards the crown in
the front. As you proceed over the crown, the angle of your fingers
should be more in alignment with the head shape. As you work into
the nape your fingers are angled away from the nape.
[step 3]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p11

Head Sheet Diagram D

Internal Layering
Continue with parallel sections on the right-hand side for three to
four sections depending on hair type.
[step 4]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p12

Head Sheet Diagram E

Internal Layering
Connect the initial side into the interior shape using over-direction
and the previous section as a guide.
[step 7]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p13

Head Sheet Diagram F

Outline Shape
The outline shape.
[step 9]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
A-Line Long Layered Shape
HeadBlock Basics—August 2010 Step by Step—p14

Head Sheet Diagram G

Rounding Internal Corner

Refine the corner over the outline. This will achieve a light internal
shape with a bevelled weighty outline
[step 11]

© My Hairdressers Ltd
My Hairdressers Limited

T +44 (0) 207 0789 807

E info@myhairdressers.com
W www.myhairdressers.com

Registered in England & Wales No. 6366273 Registered Office: 10 Overcliffe, Gravesend, Kent DA11 0EF,UK